THE PIG Tail to Snout

2012 2 0 1 2 at our table CONVERSATIONS ON FOOD, WINE, AND CULTURE THE PIG Tail to Snout CONTENTS 4 HOmE ON THE R ANGE Generations of Pig Farmers 5 PRIzED BREEDS Heritage Pigs Make a Comeback 8 THE Art OF Charcuterie A Master Butcher Shows His Skills 10 GOING WHOLE HOG A Chef ’s Porcine Passion 11 little PIGG y questions With Thomas McNaughton 13 Hot ON THE Trail OF Pigs PIGGING OUT Delectable Recipes On a recent trip to Southwest France, my wife and I will always remember that meal, sitting beneath 17 I spent a week in the seaside village of Cap Ferret. the trees and enjoying the sea breeze on that sunny There, on a particularly picturesque day, while autumn day. I can still taste the prefect brininess of SPIRITED walking through the town square, we happened upon the oysters and the elegance of the wine. Most of COmbinations Pig-Friendly Pairings a number of food trucks. One sold freshly shucked all, though, I will remember the pork: its flavor and oysters, another featured the beautiful wines from texture, its layers of succulent fat and crispy cracklings. the neighboring region of Bordeaux, and my favorite The thought of that particular pig has left a lasting truck of all promised pork. impression on me and my cuisine. Using properly cared-for and treated pigs, and the techniques that As my wife secured our spots at the nearby picnic I learned from one of my mentors, Alaskan master tables, I made my way to the pork truck. I stood butcher François Vecchio, I try to recreate similar mesmerized as I watched whole legs turn slowly on memories in our restaurants. A good meal should also the rotisserie. I ordered two pieces of the beautifully be a memory, and that is what I hope to share with our roasted pork before returning to the other trucks guests—at our table and within these pages. to select our Arcachon Bay oysters and a bottle of muscadet to pair with our lunch. —Chef Mark Sullivan Cover Photo: © Lothar Lenz/Corbis AT OUR TABLE • 2012 3 Farm HAPPy pigs A Conversation WITH CHEF mARk Sullivan AND Stone VALLEy FARm OWNER BrookS StratmORE THE food at OUR restaurants IS ONLy AS GOOD AS THE SUm OF ALL its parts. That IS WHy A mEAL IS INTRINSICALLy LINkED to THE LAND OR SEA: THE farmER AND THE forager, AND FINALLy, THE CHEF. IT IS SO Important for mE to work WITH Stone VALLEy FARm, A SmALL artisan heritage pork producer IN ALAmO, California. THE relationship that I have WITH owner BrookS StratmORE IS A true partnership. WE have A continuous dialogue ABOUT THE processing, FEEDING, AND FINISHING OF THE pigs, each OF US OPEN to THE other’S feedback AND suggestions. TOGETHER, WE ARE committed to providing THE highest-quality AND finest-tasting pork to ALL OF OUR guests. —mark Sullivan mARk Sullivan: Can you provide a brief mS: Which heritage breeds of pigs do you raise? mS: Why do you think nose-to-tail cooking has history of the farm—where it started and become so popular over the past few years? BS: We work with Berkshire and Berkshire where it is today? crossbreed hogs: 50 percent Berkshire, BS: I believe that this is driven by the caliber BrookS StratmORE: My family began farming 25 percent Duroc, and 25 percent York. The of today’s chefs. They are seen as artists in the mid-1800s with our ranches in Alamo, desirable traits of pork seem to be constantly and have the freedom to pursue local, niche California. My great-grandfather Albert Stone changing. In the recent past, health-conscious products. Whole-animal butchery exemplifies primarily farmed cattle and walnuts before consumers drove the pork industry to breed sustainability because no part of the pig goes raising Berkshire hogs. Our interest in natural lean pigs. Now the country’s top chefs are untouched. and organic farming was born from trying to spearheading a return to the heritage breeds mS: I know the story, but can you describe to marry our dedication in caring for the land and with a higher fat content. The Berkshire pig is our readers how our relationship began? providing the best possible product. renowned for its propensity to develop rich fat and, like Duroc pigs, highly flavorful meat. BS: I have known Bacchus partner Tim mS: What is your role in the education of Stannard for years. When we first toyed with both chefs and consumers about your farming mS: How do you raise your animals? the idea of selling meat under our own label, practices? BS: We raise our animals the very best way we our first call was to Bacchus. They have been BS: We encourage people to appreciate the know how. Our pork is antibiotic free. They instrumental in our business, and The Village value in local and sustainable foods, while not are fed natural, vegetarian feed and raised in Pub became our first steady client. focusing on the trendy aspect or the label of open-air, deep-bedded barns with ample space mS: What do you feel is the most it. I think what we’ve learned from the chefs to roam. underappreciated part of the pig? we work with, like you and Dmitry Elperin mS: What is superior about your pigs? at The Village Pub, is that a chef’s number- BS: The leg, or ham, of the pig. It is a piece that one goal is and will always be quality. A close BS: Simply put, the quality of meat. We study is a bit more difficult for restaurants to utilize, second, however, is for their ingredients to be genetics and use the country’s top breeding but few things can compare to a properly cured local and sustainable. The greatest part about programs—and, as a result, we produce the ham. being so close to our clients is the ability to best animals around. Furthermore, we have build relationships with them and continue an aggressing culling program that matches our family ranching tradition that has spanned the highest-quality females to our purebred eight generations. Berkshire boars. 4 2012 • AT OUR TABLE Illustrations By JOHN BurgoyNE heritage BREEDS OVER THE past 50 years, mANy heritage pork BREEDS NEARED ExTINCTION. ONCE PRIzED for THEIR flavor AND mARBLING, THESE BREEDS lost favor AS consumers SOUGHT LEANER cuts. In recent years, chefs and consumers have rediscovered the amazing taste of heritage breeds and have embraced artisanal meat products. Heritage pork farmers are doing everything in their power to preserve these rare breeds and supply the growing market. Working largely on small farms and employing free-range practices, these farmers are passionate about quality pork and preserving their rich culinary history. Duroc This breed of American pig originated from BERkSHIRE This all-purpose pig originated in TAmworth This English breed was brought to Red Hogs bred in New Jersey and New york in the Berkshire, England, and came to the United States the United States in the late 1800s. The muscular, early 1800s. The meat is characterized by ample in the early 1800s. The most popular heritage breed, red-hued pig has often been described as a “bacon intramuscular fat, resulting in tender and its sweet, meaty, well-marbled flesh is darker than hog” for its ability to produce lean, fine-grained full-flavored meat. commercial pork. They can grow to 600 pounds and meat and bacon. have a distinctive black coloring with white areas on their snout, tail, and legs. RED Wattle This breed is named for the pair Ossabaw Originally from Spain, this small pig AmERICAN Mulefoot This hardy domestic of red wattles attached to the sides of its neck. with a heavy coat and long snout is derived from a breed is known for its gentle disposition and Renowned for their foraging ability and intensely population of feral pigs on Ossabaw Island, Georgia. possession of a single solid hoof, similar to that of a flavored lean but tender meat, the pigs can reach It has a wild, almost gamey flavor and is well-suited mule or a horse. These pigs are prized for their red, up to 1,500 pounds. The Red Wattle was the breed for cured meats and whole-pig roasts. marbled meat that is ideal for ham. used by the victorious Flour + Water team at this year’s Cochon 555 competition. GUINEA Forest HOG Originating in the United Mangalista This curly-haired hog originated IBERIAN The Iberian pig that roams Spain and States, this small, rare hog has black, bristling hair in Hungary and has only recently been saved from Portugal—sometimes referred to as the “Black and pointed ears. Also known as the Pineywoods extinction as farmers have begun raising them in the Foot”—is known for its black skin, little or no hair, Guinea, Guinea Forest Hog, Acorn Eater, and yard United States. This large, rare breed is known for its and lean body mass. Acorn-fed Iberian pigs produce Pig, its full-flavored, well-marbled meat is perfect strong-tasting meat and high fat content. some of the most sought after meats in the world: a for bacon. cured ham called Jamon Iberico, and a special cut of pork cut from the area between the shoulder blade and the back leg called Secreto Iberico. John Burgoyne is a graduate of the massachusetts College of Art and a member of the Society of Illustrators in New y ork. He has won over 150 awards in the United States and Europe.

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