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Full Draft FINAL Online and In the Spotlight: A Critical Analysis of The Beauty Vlogger A Dissertation SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA BY Lauren Maas Weinzimmer IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Dr. Laurie Ouellette August 2018 © Lauren Maas Weinzimmer 2018 Acknowledgements They say it takes a village to complete a project like a dissertation, and I am immensely grateful to have had the small army I did. Their guidance, support, and encouragement helped me through this dissertation process, and over the last four years of graduate school. Without direction from my advisor, Laurie Ouellette, this project would not exist in its current form. An exemplar scholar, mentor, teacher, and advisor, Laurie guided me towards the labor literature that shapes this project. Additionally, her insights and pointed feedback strengthened my arguments and writing, and her kindness made my transition to Minnesota much easier. I am fortunate to have had not only an advisor, but a whole committee of women who were invested in this project. Jennifer Pierce helped me identify key literature that shaped the historical and labor analyses I conduct in Chapter One. Catherine Squires introduced me to Critical Race Theory, and helped me shape the racial intervention of this project. For that, I am a better scholar, teacher, and citizen. I am indebted to Mary Vavrus, who not only championed this project but who also guided me as I gained my footing as an instructor over the past three years. Thank you for always having your office door open and for responding to my (too) many emails. I would also like to thank my interviewees. This dissertation is stronger for having their voices included in it. I am grateful for the help of Jacqueline Vickery and Brooke Duffy who generously connected me with interview subjects. Brooke also provided me with support, direction, and encouragement beginning with the first time we talked over the phone in May 2017. She is one of the most generous academics I have ever come across. The U provided me with opportunities and resources that made my time as a Ph.D. student as productive as possible. I sincerely thank Ron Greene and the Department of Communication Studies for funding my research trip to VidCon. Angela Boutch, Lauren Sietsema, and Hannah McMunn were instrumental in making this possible. I am forever indebted to my Minnesota guru Diane Odash who made sure I acclimated to winter and to teaching during my first months as a Ph.D. student. Diane has been immensely generous with her time and her advice during my time at the U, beyond my first year and Public Speaking. I will miss her friendship and advice enormously. Shayla Thiel-Stern became an important post-doctorate resource for me after she left the U, and I am appreciative of her mentorship and support since I was a prospective student. Lastly, I want to thank the community of peers I had at the U, within and beyond the Department of Communication Studies. You all enriched my experience here. I also want to thank the graduate students who preceded me and were always happy to give me advice at key moments over the last four years. This includes, but is not limited to, Emma Bedor Hiland, Rebecca Jurisz, Kate Ranachan, Jules Wight, and Heidi Zimmerman. I could not have written this dissertation without my writing group. Rye Gentleman, Joy Hamilton, Zoë Rodine, Jules Wight, and Megan Yahnke were the best companions I could have asked for in the often-solitary writing process. Thank you all for i cheering me on, reviewing pieces of my work, and giving me a good laugh when the stress of the writing process was particularly intense. I am indebted to Zoë who was also a phenomenal and thorough copyeditor. I am lucky to have found a community in Minneapolis at Six Degrees when I stumbled into a Reformer Pilates class in February 2017. I have developed a love for Pilates and amazing friendships ever since. Thank you for providing the only space where I found I was able to turn my brain off. I will especially miss Tanya Cook, Becky Golberg, Kendahl Prokop, and Letta Page. I was far away from most of my support system while in Minnesota and I am thankful that technology and visits kept us close when it all felt so far away. Abby Kaun and Alison Trope have been important mentors to me for a decade and throughout my entire graduate school journey. I also have the best network of friends imaginable who supported and encouraged me from Los Angeles, Orange County, New York City, Washington D.C., San Francisco, and Austin (just to name a few places). It has been hard to face Ph.D. life without my M.A. partner-in-crime Ben Kruger-Robbins, but luckily conferences were usually on our side and we were able to see each other at least annually. I am also especially grateful to my two oldest friends, Molly Doctors Rajashekhar and Mandy Menaker, who have been two of my biggest cheerleaders and always reminded me that the degree I was pursuing was important and worthwhile life achievement. Everyone needs a person to ride the ups and downs of graduate school with, and I have been fortunate to have Megan Yahnke right by my side for the past three years. Whether I needed a pep talk, a vent session, or some baked goods, I knew someone always had my back. I will miss our brunches and “work” sessions the most. Thank you for learning to predict my anti-social tendencies, inviting me to spend holidays in Wisconsin with your family when I otherwise would have spent them alone, and entrusting me with the care of your dearest Leslie. My family has supported my educational ambitions since I first discovered them. My cousins Julianne Weinzimmer and Scott Wagar reviewed two rounds of graduate school applications and were always willing to give me advice and support having each walked this path before me. My parents have been two of my strongest supporters and I know it has been hard for them to have me so far away for the last six years. Thank you for always being willing to be there in person for the big moments, no matter how far you had to travel, and for never wavering in your support of my ambitions. My siblings and I started our graduate school journey together, and I will always cherish sharing those years together. Thanks to Elissa especially for sending thoughtful care packages designed to help me focus and finish over the past year. And to my twin, David, to whom this project is dedicated, thank you for the daily calls (and FaceTime interludes with Spicedrop), for providing me a home outside of Minnesota in yours (first in San Francisco and now in Brooklyn), and for riding every up and down of the last year with me. I honestly do not know if I could have done this without you. Here’s to the next chapter, living in the same place for the first time since we went away to college. ii Dedication For David, my twin and unwavering pillar of support. iii Abstract This dissertation analyzes the beauty vlogger, who I define for purposes of this project as an individual who produces beauty content across multiple social media platforms as her full-time job. Through textual and discourse analysis, personal observation, and interviews with content creators, I theorize the beauty vlogger through the multiple identities that she simultaneously embodies – those of the female entrepreneurial laborer, the public persona, and the social media “influencer.” Not only does this dissertation critically interrogate the beauty vlogger as she exists within the contemporary post-Fordist and neoliberal capitalist context, but it also historicizes the figure of the beauty vlogger by looking to other modes of gendered, raced, and classed entrepreneurialism within and around the beauty industry over the course of the twentieth century. In the current moment, the beauty vlogger exists within a highly commercialized environment, both through her engagement with online video and social media platforms like YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and Snapchat which monetize the content she creates and through her positionality vis-à-vis the traditional beauty industry. In her role as a public persona and social media influencer who tests and reviews beauty products, the beauty vlogger functions as a critical part of emergent marketing and advertising strategies that capitalize on the relationship the beauty vlogger fosters with her audience. Increasingly, this content has materialized into formalized, paid partnerships between the beauty vlogger and beauty brands, which provides the beauty vlogger with additional revenue streams. The lifestyle that the beauty vlogger promotes online as an entrepreneur, a public persona, and an influencer, is one which others aspire iv to attain, but it is important to remember the curated nature of the beauty vlogger’s online identity. In this dissertation, I render visible the beauty vlogger’s hidden labor that produces and mitigates her seemingly glamorous lifestyle. v Table of Contents Introduction Positioning The Beauty Vlogger…………………………………………………………1 Chapter One The Beauty Vlogger as Female Entrepreneurial Laborer………...……………………..30 Chapter Two The Beauty Vlogger as Public Persona……………………………………..………..…79 Chapter Three The Beauty Vlogger as Influencer…………..………………………..………………..120 Conclusion Looking Beyond the Individual Beauty Vlogger………...……………………..…...…164 Works Cited………………………………………………………...………………….177 vi Introduction – Positioning The Beauty Vlogger A little less than a decade ago, when many of the beauty vloggers who now have millions of subscribers were just starting their YouTube channels, the Internet was a very different space than it is now.
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