2 The Making of a Cosmopolitan Quar- th ter: Sha’laan in the 20 Century 1 Dawn Chatty I was born in Bab Tuma. At the time my father was a teacher at Maktab Anbar. My father wanted to live in a modern – less conservative quarter. He moved us to Sha’laan in the 1930s … There were many French, Italian, and Greek families in the Sha’laan Quarter … Everything was available in Sha’laan. There were grocers and butchers. All the buildings you see here are new. Most of the houses were of traditional Ar- abic style except for the French styled ones such as this building on the corner and the houses on the right side of the lane you see on your way to Arnous … Present Sibki Park was not there. There was a farm where cows were raised and where we used to go with our grandmother to buy milk. (Abu Wadi’, interview September 2008). The rapid development of an area of orchards and farms on the outskirts of Damascus at the end of WWI and during the French mandatory period is a perfect reflec- tion of the dynamic transformation of contemporary Damascus in the 20th century. In recent decades, this area, once officially known as Shouhada, has come to be known as the Sha’laan quarter because of its close 29 30 The Making of a Cosmopolitan Quarter: Sha’laan in the 20th attachment with the Aneza Bedouin leader, Nuri Sha’laan of the Ruwalla tribe. This quarter is approxi- mately equidistant between the old city of Damascus and the important centuries-old village, - now urban quarter - of Salhiyya along the foothills of Mount Kassoun. Sha’laan today retains certain unique features prominent in its early development: it is both a residen- tial as well as commercial district; it is home to a wide range of nationalities including French, Italian, Greek, Russian and Armenian; it is religiously mixed with Muslim and Christian believers. It has maintained its cosmopolitan residential and commercial dominance in the modern city of Damascus even though the city has spread far west with new, more modern residential quarters attracting many of the city’s rich. How has this come about and how has the quarter managed to maintain a vibrancy and international flavour into the 21st century? This paper will attempt to explore the spe- cial circumstances which contributed to the develop- ment of Sha’laan into what it is today. Focussing on a series of interviews with present and former residents of the quarter as well as merchants and shop keepers, I set out to elucidate the features which its residents found so attractive in the past and still do today. The interviews reflect on life in the quarter from as early as the 1930s up to the present time. This is an interpretive essay based on these interviews. Some historic details may be partially or incorrectly remembered by the interviewees. I do, when I am aware of any inaccuracies in recall, make alternative comment in the footnotes. The quarter certainly had a special appeal and coherent atmosphere. As one inter- viewee said “when we moved from the area, we still returned to it all the time” (Usama, September 2008). Others who were interviewed included settlers to the Syria Studies 31 quarter in the 1930s, mainly exiled Palestinian leaders and their supporters as well as Armenians and Circas- sians who were looking for cheaper accommodation than what was possible closer to the old city or in the such suburbs as Halbouni, Afiif or Arnous. Merchants and traders who came to the quarter in the 1940s and 1950s were also interviewed including Armenians, who moved out of the largely Christian quarter of Bab Tuma and Bab Sharqiy to develop their businesses in food vending, shoe production and novelty shops. Background The emergence of Sha’laan as a distinct district came on the heels of a major period of urban development initiated by the Ottoman state at the close of the 19th and early 20th centuries; this included the establishment of a tram line between 1907 and 1913 linking the mod- ern Ottoman government offices in Merj with the centu- ries-old settlement of Salhiyya up along Mount Kassoun. Prior to the establishment of this tram line there was only a horse and donkey track connecting the city of Damascus with the important outlying village of Salhiyya. Over the next few years a number of im- portant Ottoman residences, government buildings and schools were constructed alongside the tram line. There followed a ‘strip development’ parallel to the tram line of several districts – Arnous, Shuhada, Afiif and Jisr. Then in 1919/ 1920 as King Faysal of the short-lived Kingdom of Syria and his supporters withdrew from Damascus and moved to Baghdad to create the King- dom of Iraq, one of the few large residences recently built in the gardens and orchards west of the tram line was bought by the ruler of the Ruwalla tribe, Emir Nuri Sha’laan. The Emir Nuri had fought with King Faysal 32 The Making of a Cosmopolitan Quarter: Sha’laan in the 20th to see the creation of the Kingdom of Syria. But his allegiance was with Syria and he was uninterested in moving to Baghdad. Instead he purchased this villa and some adjoining farm land from Yassin Al Hashemi who was to accompany King Faysal to the British Mandate of Mesopotamia (Iraq) and become that state’s prime minister twice, once in the 1920s and again in the 1930s. This purchase, in some ways, marked the foun- dation and emergence of the quarter as a modern, ethni- cally-mixed, cosmopolitan centre. The Emir extended his residence by building three more villas, a mosque and gardens into which he moved his family. The Sub- ki family, which owned large tracts of apricot orchard, and farmed wheat in the area, began to construct a number of hybridized two-story houses blending tradi- tional Arab with ‘modern’ European styles. The Shouhada Arch (or Subki Arch) next to the tramline was the gateway to these gardens and farms watered by the Yazid tributary of the Barada River. The Subki’s constructed a block of four such houses close to the Sha’laan buildings. These buildings were later rented to a number of important Syrian intellectuals, activists, and nationalists. The French authorities, having built the new Parlia- ment building in 1932 adjacent to the Salhiyya tramline and established their army barracks and military hospi- tal just behind, followed by purchasing or commission- ing residences for its army officers and administrative staff. They also built a large modern, French school for girls at the end of southern end of the quarter. These two near-simultaneous events, as well as an ‘urban planning’ map which set out to subdivide the quarter into sections and streets, seem to have initiated a major building programme which saw much of the adjacent farmland and fruit orchards turned over and converted Syria Studies 33 into ‘modern’ residential buildings during the 1930s and 1940s. With the withdrawal of the French from Syria in the 1940s, the residential blocks in and surrounding the quarter were increasingly inhabited by returnees (Syri- ans returning from periods of study abroad often with foreign spouses), foreign nationals [many French busi- nessmen], as well as successful middle and upper-class professionals leaving the old city and seeking modern housing. Among the major players in the development of this quarter were members of the extended family of the Subkis and the Shanawanis. Both of these families made significant contributions to the development of Sha’laan and helped turn it into an important political and economic centre of Damascus. The Emir Nuri, meanwhile, gave his name to the district quite by chance. In purchasing the late Ottoman residence, he established his compound as Beit Sha’laan, a centre of Bedouin hospitality with its open reception area [mada- fa] for visiting tribal members as well as the merchants and male residents of the quarter. He spent the last dec- ades of his life at Beit Sha’laan leaving an impression on the quarter, not easily forgotten. One informant rec- ollected as a girl of 10: One of the most fascinating scenes that magnet- ized me was the sight of loaded camels as they approached, with their ringing bells, the large oval shape of the entrance of the Sha’laan House where some people were busy unloading the camels while others rushed to pay respect to and take care of an elderly man [Emir Nuri] who seems to enjoy a certain status … There was always a group of ten to twelve people at the door which used to be kept open. And there was always some hay outside the house where 34 The Making of a Cosmopolitan Quarter: Sha’laan in the 20th the camels used to wait while being unloaded. (Watfa, interview September 2008). Both the Emir Nuri Sha’laan and the Shanawani fami- lies built mosques in the quarter in the 1920s which are still important religious shrines today. The Sha’laan family, moreover, kept its guest room (madafa) open to the local traders and merchants. In the past, the family would invite all residents in the quarter to a meal in the madafa during important Muslim religious holidays. Although the latter practice is no longer maintained, the madafa remains open on most evenings and the grand- son of the Emir Nuri continues to hold regularly even- ing hospitality in the courtyard of this traditional house. The Shanawani family, on the other hand, a wealthy land-owning family, was among the first to take ad- vantage of the French Mandate land rezoning to convert some of its agricultural land and orchards into apart- ment blocks.