A unique selection of and By and For Golden Age laser cut Electric Flight short kits and plans The AerodromeRC News Enthusiasts

VOL 1 - NO 9 September 2005 www.AerodromeRC.com D.III with standard , E�������� I����� ���� I���� and undercarriage, but a new set of wings that, however, followed the one- By Kurt Bengtson 1 • E�������� piece laminated wood construction 1 • P���� T������� P�������� of the D.III. Only a single photograph Many things have been happening 3 • B������� T��: W��� T���, seems to have survived which was my at AerodromeRC this past month. R������ ��� E�������� main source of information. Apart from We have introduced new models and 4 • T���� �� ��� T���� P��� that, I am grateful to Don Ralston who released a few from our workshop T��: C������� ��� T���� supplied me with pictures of his plastic into full release. Work has progressed ��� C������� model (you can find it in his gallery on on many designs and new ones were www.wwi-models.org). It seems the added. I’ll be re-designing a Sparrow conversion consisted of the following: monoplane for Free Flight, hopefully to enter that 1. added to the lower wing. market in the fall. The old design has been upgraded for a more scale look with double the number of ribs, a new airfoil improved construction. It will continue to be offered for electric R/C. The new 24” Albatros DII for GWS power is our first entry into the indoor or backyard flying genre. Work is underway for a ~24” wingspan, Fokker Dr.1 of the same class. Our venerable 36” SPAD VII has been redesigned for a much more scale look with 110 ribs and scale like airfoils. It also has a lighter built-up box construction. The current beginner’s version will continue to be offered. A new feature that will be added to new kit designs is the inclusion of laser cut strip wood for many kits. This addition will make it much easier to build one of our kits without hunting down an odd size or non-metric size piece of strip wood. Costs 2. Upper wing shorted by one rib (ailerons w/o will be slightly higher but we hope the convenience balance) and set higher. will out weigh it. Also, for many double spar 3. Middle wing (w/o ailerons) of very short chord designs, I’ll be using balsa for spars instead of bass added. or spruce. The weight savings easily overcomes the The ailerons of the two wings were connected by pushrods; loss of strength. This also allows me to include spar the new, higher cabane and wing struts looked like the D.III material as part of the kit. Laminated balsa will ones. be included for leading edges in some kits too. For some kits, carbon fiber tubes and rod just have no substitute and will be used.

P���� T������� P�������� By Eduard Werner After the appearance of the Sopwith in late 1916, the German aircraft industry was invited to develop themselves. The single successful type of these triplanes was the Fokker Dr.1; the only other produced triplane fighter was the Pfalz Dr.1. But apart from these, almost every German aircraft designer tried to develop a triplane, mostly by adapting an existing , simply fitting it with another wing. One of these projects was the Pfalz Triplane that never received a factory designation. It was a converted Pfalz Since you can use almost all the parts of a D.III or DIIIa, The AerodromeRC News VOL 1 - NO 9 Page 2 www.AerodromeRC.com Kurt’s kit lends itself to this conversion. Starting with a for the biplane Pfalz) with four HiTec servos, a Graupner well-designed kit is a good idea anyway, so you really know R700 (with over 20g not a lightweight), a 1200mA LiPoly who is to blame pack and a Yellow-BL motor which had been pushed with when it won’t D�� ��� ����� neodyne magnets by Ralph Okon. The covering has been fly. I decided to The , a derivative of the done with Polyspan and clear dope. The CG looked right, sheet the tailplane 1913 , was the longest with 1 mm balsa Sopwith design in military use. It served and planked the until 1930 with the Norwegian service. fuselage. Adding ailerons to the lower wing was trivial, and I shortened the upper wing scale-like, thus being able to use the kit’s trailing edge (the balance bit went away). The middle wing is a simple construction with stock LE and TE and two 3 x 2 mm spruce and came out at 25g, covered. The angle of incidence of middle and lower wing are identical,

too, but keep in mind that I am one of those builders who simply balance the model on two fingers while glancing at the plan and decide everything is all right when the fuselage stays halfway horizontal. After all, I have paid money for that servo, haven’t I? Before the maiden flight, I was much less nervous than I used to be. She gained speed slowly but was airborne after about 10m. As she was so very slow I was afraid of stalling her until I understood that this is her D�� ��� ����� and I kept the angle of incidence of the upper wing and cruising speed. Wing warping in early simply set it higher. That way I wouldn’t have to worry She feels like a was accomplished by control cables about the CG. The nasty bit was the new cabane struts, but slow flyer and connected to the lower wing rear spar. after a lot of swearing and piercing the covered upper wing looks breathtaking Pulling on one side and subsequent release of tension on the opposite once it came out all right. I also beefed up the undercarriage in the air. The side caused the necessary warp. As a a bit connecting the front legs with a piece of steel rod, good handling consequence, wing warping biplanes c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s did not have inter plane strut cross have survived the bracing. conversion, she is just reacting a little sensitive to the elevator. Power is not abundant, a loop from level flight is just too much, and she has to be flown at full throttle almost all the time, resulting in about 8 minutes of flight on a 1200mA LiPoly. Meanwhile, I have also succeeded in taking off of grass. All in all, I am extremely pleased with the result of this experiment. She’s just the thing for a nice chill-out on a calm evening, looking great in the air and actually having no vices, a slow and stable flyer.

D�� ��� ����� The Sopwith LCT also known as the 1 ½ strutter was an very innovative design for it’s day. It introduced the characteristic cowling of all later Sopwith aircraft. The ½ struts anticipating that it might be capable of coping with more were considered advanced at the time replacing the full inter weight than it had been designed for. The longerons of the plane variety with cabane style approach. There was no top middle wing go through holes in the fuselage. wing center section. The top wing attachment was via inverted Interestingly, she came out much lighter than expected and V cabane struts to a central box rib. The LCT went into service in February of 1916. weighs only 690g (that’s 100g less than the instructions give The AerodromeRC News VOL 1 - NO 9 Page 3 www.AerodromeRC.com paint tray that was big enough to hold the length of dowel I B������� T��: needed. I am ready to do some wing tip forming. W��� T���, R������ ��� E�������� By Bert Ayers Recently I saw a couple of discussions (one on E-Zone) on how to do laminations for wing tips, rudders and elevators or other areas where curved edges are needed. CA glue and White water based resins have made laminating really easy.

I allowed the dowels to soak in the ammonia for about two hours. Then I carefully taped them to the pattern and let them dry overnight.

I wanted to share another way of making wing tips, rudders and elevators. Something I learned many years ago, before CA and White glue. This process also allows one to make a three dimensional shape---that is, not only wing tip shape

I made four beautiful wing tips that also have an under cambered shape. Not shown are the rudder and horizontal stab/elevator I made in the same manner. This is not a difficult process. I hope you will try it instead of laminating---on one of your models. but also with and under cambered airfoil shape included. I’m building a 1/6 scale Bristol Scout with under cambered wings. I made a template of the wing tip shape (both tips on one template) out of 1/8-inch pressboard. I bent to the D�� ��� ����� The progenitor of the was the undercamber shape I desired. I added two ribs to hold the Sopwith SLTBP also called the Sopwith Sparrow. shape. A design, the Sparrow was powered D�� ��� ����� I choose some very by a 50 Hp Gnome rotary engine. Hawker Other than the USA, the only demonstrated its aerobatic abilities in November other nations to operate Camels straight grained 1/8 inch dowels. I bought a bottle 1915. The exact meaning of the SLTBP is not in wartime were and known but speculated to be Sopwith Light Tractor Belgium. declined to of ammonia from my local Biplane. Unlike the Pup, the Sparrow employed purchase the type. Safeway store. I found a wing warping. The AerodromeRC News VOL 1 - NO 9 Page 4 www.AerodromeRC.com T���� �� ��� T���� P��� T��: 4. Transparent unless painted The Japanese tissue is a better quality tissue than domestic C������� ��� T���� tissue. It’s a little stronger and is much easier to work with when it’s wet. They have a shiny side and a dull side. They ��� C������� should be applied with the shiny side facing out. A vintage By Ian Easton model finished with a well done tissue job is a beautiful sight. Last month we looked at the tools needed to build models from a kit or a plan. This month we’ll take al look at the S������� choices of covering, and tools for covering. Silkspan is like a heavy weight tissue, though still very light. It comes in two weights; one for lightweight models C�������� and one for heavyweight ‘gas’ models. Applying it is the For someone new to aero-modeling, going into a model same as tissue, but is quite a bit stronger. shop or browsing through a supplier’s catalogue and looking for material to cover the framework they’ve just completed Mylar® must be an experience akin to me walking into a computer/ Pros: stereo store. There are so many choices and you’ve not a clue 1. Comes clear and aluminized what’s going on; which one is best, and what one do you 2. Comes in different thicknesses need. At least when choosing a material to cover with you 3. Very light and very strong don’t have to worry about giga this and mega that, with an 4. Needs to be lightly heat shrunk xkz connection to a doo-hicky line on an ether card gizmo 5. Can take certain paints with lots of RAM and a flash what you call it on an ABC 6. Does not have a grain platform, (and would you like to go wireless with that), all 7. As easy to work with as tissue of which will be outdated next week! No, although there are Cons: many choices, it’s much simpler than that. 1. Needs finishing to add color The primary requirements for covering the open areas of 2. Can be expensive a plane, such as wings, tails etc, is that it should be light Many modelers cover their models with Mylar® then weight, airproof, stay taught, strong enough to handle the dope tissue over it. Done properly this makes for a beautiful occasional knock (hanger rash), and sometimes, be able to finish with the look of tissue but incredibly strong and light. take paint. S0, rather than write about how to apply the different types of covering I’ll list the types with their pro and cons. D�� ��� ����� Remember too that this is not a definitive list of covering The Sopwith Pup was the pilot’s favorite of all Sopwith fighters. It’s docility and with excellent agility made it a pilot’s aircraft. It material, there are many more out there, but is a list that I had none of the heaviness of the prior 1 ½ Strutter and lacked am familiar with and have had experience with. the latent viciousness of the later Camel. I’ll start with materials that need to have an adhesive, such as a glue-stick, or Balsa-lok, and Stix-it, which are heat I would not recommend tissue over aluminized Mylar®. It activated, or thinned wood glue, applied to the framework looks horrible (that’s from my personal experience)! Being to enable them to stick. so strong – the internal structure will break before the D�� ��� ����� Mylar® will tear. Thomas Octave Murdoch Sopwith passed away at 101 years Polyspan of age. His life long influence on British aviation was massive yet For models such as the ones available here at AerodromeRC the companies bearing the Sopwith name only lasted 8 years. I highly recommend Polyspan. Applied properly it gives the right look to WW1 aircraft and is lightweight and very T����� strong. Pros: Pros: 1. There’s Japanese Tissue (Esaki) and domestic tissue 1. Light weight 2. They are a paper product, very thin and very light 2. Strong 3. They come in a multitude of colors 3. Needs to be lightly heat-shrunk 4. They need to be shrunken before or after application 4. Need to be sealed with dope or similar with water or alcohol 5. Takes paint well 5. They need to be sealed with dope or similar 6. It has a grain and needs to be applied ‘directionally’ 6. They have a grain and should be applied ‘directionally’ Cons: 7. They take paint well 1. Needs finishing to seal and add color 8. Easy to work with 2. Doesn’t go around tight radius’ well 9. Inexpensive 3. It has a ‘good’ side and a ‘fuzzy’ side that’s sometimes difficult to tell apart but becomes quite apparent after Cons: it’s been doped. (Do not try to sand off the ‘fuzz’ if 1. They tear easily (but are easy to repair) you put it on upside down). 2. Color matching repairs is not easy The first time I used Polyspan I was not too thrilled with 3. They become brittle with age and colors fade the finish but after seeing some beautiful free flight models The AerodromeRC News VOL 1 - NO 9 Page 5 www.AerodromeRC.com that had been finished with it I tried again. Taking my time Cons: and exercising care I managed a finish that I was really 1. Only comes in clear happy with. My most recent free flight model survived quite 2. Requires extra finishing to add colors etc a few trimming incidents before I got it flying correctly and 3. Buying it in huge rolls the Polyspan still looked like new, when I was done. T�� O����� There are may other types of plastic covering film available D�� ��� ����� like Solarfilm, Coverite, etc and all of them have great The Sopwith Triplane was not the only triplane developed by attributes but tend to be too heavy for small electric models. Sopwith. Two Hispano Suiza powered variants were produced Solartex is one of the best materials I have worked with. It but did not reach production status. In 1918, Sopwith revived the triplane concept in the Gobham, Rhino and Snark. is very easy to use, it has a nice cloth texture, adheres and shrinks well and provides a beautiful finish. Unfortunately Solartex is one of the heaviest materials available and as CoverLite such is definitely not suitable for small electric models. It 1. A polyester type tissue does have its uses - but just not on the models I’m referring 2. Light weight to here. 3. Comes in a variety of colors There’s also fiberglass finishes, brown paper finishes 4. Needs to be lightly heat shrunk and many more systems and types available that I have no 5. Very strong and tear resistant experience with but information on is readily available in 6. It has a grain and needs to be applied ‘directionally’ magazines and on the internet. 7. Easy to use and easy to repair 8. No additional finishing required C������� T���� As for tools, not too many are needed to produce a good This is a popular choice for lightweight electric models quality finish. You can see in the photo the two types of and produces a nice finish. Another product I would highly heat iron I use; the large one for general work and heat recommend. application; the small one for tight corners and delicate As mentioned before the materials above need to have a work. The large one can also be used for shrinking large separate adhesive applied to make them work. Following is areas of material. When moved lightly over the surface a list of materials that already have the adhesive on them. being finished it works like a magic wand as the wrinkles These are all ‘iron-on’ materials. disappear as it sweeps by. For more intense shrinking you need a heat gun as shown. Some people use a paint stripper D�� ��� ����� gun as they generate a lot of heat; hair dryers don’t get hot The is considered by many the zenith of Sopwith design during WWI. It featured a water cooled engine enough. A flat iron, like a travel iron also works well for and back staggered biplane wings. It was not received well by shrinking large areas. new pilots who were wary of the unusual nature of the aircraft. When using a heat gun, care must be taken to not over- Pilots, who flew the type operationally, loved the fighter. shrink materials in the attempt to eliminate every wrinkle. It’s easy to induce unwanted warps into the flying surfaces and if you hold it on too long in one spot, holes can appear S�����® in certain materials. There is one advantage of heat shrink Pros: materials though; it’s easy to remove warps. 1. Very light 2. Comes in many bright colors 3. Needs to be heat shrunk and shrinks really well 4. Beautiful finishes are attainable with care Cons: 1. Is a little delicate to work with as it likes to stick to itself 2. Punctures easily, then tears quickly 3. Very shiny D������ This is document-laminating film. It comes in two thickness; 1.5 mils and 3 mils. For our purposes 1.5 mils is good. Pros: 1. Very light 2. Very strong 3. Heat shrinks 4. Already has adhesive on it Razor blades again, are about the best tool for trimming 5. Takes paint well material. They do blunt quickly but if bought in bulk they’re 6. Very inexpensive when bought in large rolls cheap to discard. An invaluable tool that is shown is the 7. Appears cloudy but clears with application of heat Harry Higley trim tool. It is cleverly designed to give straight The AerodromeRC News VOL 1 - NO 9 Page 6 www.AerodromeRC.com cuts and maximize the use of a blade. It really works well, and it’s one of those tools that once you use it you’ll never The AerodromeRC News know how you got by without it. (On another note, I highly The AerodromeRC News is a free monthly publication recommend the Harry Higley series of books to any model of www.AerodromeRC.com a division of Bengtson Company. Newsletters are available as free downloads from our website. Materials in The AerodromeRC News are protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced without written permission. Submission Information E-mail your article and/or pictures of: • WWI or Golden Age planes • your model • building tip • an opinion on a modeling topic to: [email protected] or mail to: AerodromeRC Webzine PO Box 51102 Pacific Grove CA 93950 builder, new or experienced – they are terrific). Articles and photos are accepted on a voluntary basis. If you have chosen to do a finish that requires doping or Authors do not receive compensation. Text and photos painting I can’t stress enough that you buy the best quality in digital format is preferred but not required. Please brushes that you can afford. Keep them clean and keep them submit articles in *.txt, *.doc format or typewritten. Photo stored flat or inverted so that the bristles are undisturbed resolution of 72 dpi minimum; 150 to 300 dpi preferred. and they will give many years of service. Obtain a variety of sizes and shapes as just one brush cannot do all the jobs Contact Information that you’ll encounter. Address: As for the application of final finishes – paint types etc, PO Box 51102 well a whole book can be (and has been) written on that Pacific Grove CA 93950 subject. Phone and Fax: 831-393-0991 Remember too that the above is from my experience and E-Mail: [email protected] is what works for me. I do hope though that the above will help clarify the murky waters of what material to use on your model. Be patient, take your time, walk away when you get frustrated (and you will get frustrated) and you’ll be well rewarded when you receive the comments of how great your model looks and when you get asked “how did you do that.” Next time I’ll take the sticky decisions out of which glues to use – you can’t use CA for everything!