C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS APRIL 2011 NO. 187 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM

CARIBBEAN 600 COMES OF AGE

— See story on page 13 APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis ...... 40 Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] Puerto Rico: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Dolly’s Deep Secrets ...... 33 Secrets Dolly’s Deep ...... 35 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 36 Sky The Caribbean ...... 37 Readers’ Forum What’s on My Mind ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index — Reader’s Survey Respondent is a great way of keeping up with current ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS Compass ...... 32 “The events, regatta news, topical information, environmental events, regatta news, topical information, environmental the issues, and the comings and goings that pertain to cruising community of the Caribbean.” covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2011 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 8 Business Briefs Eco-News...... Caribbean 11 Regatta News...... 14 ...... 27Sailors’ Hikes ...... 28 Meridian Passage ...... Book Review 30 Sailor’s Horoscope ...... Fun Page 32 Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected]

ANGELIKA GRÜNER nd the nd might in the third RORC Caribbean 600 race Rambler’s Too Much Fish? Try these tips...... 34 Barnacle-Bound ...... Crusty in Cartagena 26 Click Google Map link below to fi ...... 18 APRIL 2011 • NUMBER 187 APRIL 2011 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com ...... 24

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Real-life learning Cruising Kids The other side of Antigua Downwind Run ...... 20Grenadines to Bonaire Amazing! SLAVINSKI COLLAERT Cover photo: Photographer Tim Wright showcases APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 or [email protected]. number, 736565,ismarkedinthegalleyoverstove. mast. Asmalloutboardengineforthedinghywasaboard.Theboat’sregistration Roseau, Dominica.Itisanengineless,whitefibreglasssloopwithagoldanodized &Updates Info Anyone withinformationisaskedtocontact(767)613-5116 The 30-footmonohull Boat AdriftfromDominica Lonely Nest

reportedlywentadriftonOctober30th,2010from CLUB NAUTICA CLUB —Continuedonnextpage Chagres RiverinPanama. Sir HenryMorganintheshallowwaterssurroundingLajasReefatmouthof or (876)477-6914. ground consistingprimarilyofCuba,theCaymanIslandsandJamaica. visit CubawouldhavetheeffectofcreatinganewCentralCaribbeancruising marina interests.AllagreedthatanyrelaxationofthetravelbanforUScitizensto ing thePortAuthorityofJamaica;andNevilleScott,representingCaymanIsland Escrich, representingCuba’smajormarinaprovider,Marlin;DaleWestin,represent- rapidly inundateCuba’smarinas. from visitingCubaformorethan50yearsandopeningafloodgateofvesselswould the 90-mileseavoyagefromSouthFloridatoCuba.USboatshavebeenbarred that therearemorethan600,000boatsinFloridaalonecapableofmaking the predictedinfluxofUSboats. met duringtherecentMiamiInternationalBoatShowtodraftastrategyhandle citizens visitingCuba,representativesofJamaicaandtheCaymanIslands Cayman Islandsmarinainterests Miguel DiazEscrichofCuba’sMarlinMarinasGroup;andNevilleScott,representing From left,DaleWestin,representingthePortAuthorityofJamaica;CommodoreJosé In FebruaryarchaeologistsrecoveredsixcannonsfromtheshipsofWelshprivateer Henry Morgan’sCannonsFoundinPanama For [email protected] The representativeswhometinMiamiincludedCommodoreJoséMiguelDiaz Figures fromtheUSCoastGuardandFloridavesselregistrationauthoritiesindicate With anticipationthatPresidentBarackObamawillsoonliftthetravelbanonUS Cuba, JamaicaandCaymanPartnerforMarinePromotion APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Anyone with information is asked to contact [email protected]. Carriacou Maroon Fest Coming! Band Festival will take The second annual Carriacou Maroon & Regional String the source of all life, growth Maroon culture is about thanksgiving and prayers to string bands from the BritishA key aspect of this year’s event will be performances by For more information see ad on page 7. March 3rd was recovered at Water Island, southwest of Charlotte Amalie, on March Water Island, southwest of Charlotte Amalie, on March March 3rd was recovered at charter version of the Lagoon 380. It was found at 17th. The boat is the four-cabin but the bimini was removed, the dinghy was missing and anchor in good condition, a different name had been put on it. provides an opportunity place from April 29th to May 1st. This three-day celebration and European traditions to experience the authentic practice of Grenada’s African that have been passed through many generations. through the drum- and prosperity. Its African origins are authentically depicted practiced by the local ming, singing, partaking of “smoke food” and other rituals values of sharing, unity people. This aspect of the festival is a celebration of the and community self-help. and host island,Virgin Islands, Tobago, St. Lucia, Guadeloupe, Trinidad, Grenada and has historically been aCarriacou. String band music is very popular on Carriacou Parang Festival each Christmas.main source of entertainment at social functions and the There are various genres of this music, and you must dance! 7 —Continued on page Mystery tour? Some two weeks after being stolen, this cat was found nearby Mystery tour? Some two weeks — with the name changed and www.panama-guide.com for information in and www.panama-guide.com , which was reported as having been stolen from her Namaste Los Angeles Times Continued from previous page Continued from Stolen Yacht Recovered in USVI The Lagoon 380 S2 Eight Bells February 26th and presumed lost at sea is 54-year-old VIBERT BAPTISTE: Missing since yacht charter industry for Vibert, known to his friends as Dribble, had worked in the broker Ann-Wallis White, a GARRETT PATRICK SPILLANE: Beloved husband of charter Generally considered a pirate, Morgan was commissioned as a privateer by the commissioned as a privateer a pirate, Morgan was Generally considered and the US National Oceanic from Texas State University, The archaeologists, at the conservation facilities of the Patronato The cannons will now be treated Thanks to the mooring at anchor in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, between February 27th and mooring at anchor in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, between yacht skipper Vibert Baptiste of St. Vincent. Vibert, who worked with Barefoot Yacht of St. Vincent. Vibert, who worked with Barefoot Yacht yacht skipper Vibert Baptiste Island to pick up a catamaran and return it to St. Charters, had flown to Union she was informed that he Vincent. Vibert’s wife, Christine, told local reporters that in Canouan before pro- made the trip alone and had perhaps stopped overnight rough and squally. The boat ceeding to St. Vincent. The weather that weekend was the engine running late was reportedly found off the lee coast of St. Vincent with boat and no sign of foul the following day. Vibert’s belongings were found on the was not found. play was reported. A search was conducted but the sailor in Prickly Bay, most of his life, beginning at the original Spice Island Charters Grenada in the 1970s. born in Cork, Ireland in 1937 former racing and charter yacht captain, Garrett was charter yacht captains and died on March 14th. Garrett was one of the original was an Antigua Sailing Week who joined the Nicholson fleet of Antigua in 1958, and veteran of thousands of char- winner several times over. As a captain, Garrett was a over 30 years. He was a ters for some of the most famous people in the world for megayacht captain before they were called megayachts. this report. English crown to attack enemy vessels and protect the British colonies of Barbados protect the British colonies to attack enemy vessels and English crown the unable to do so. He became because the Royal Navy was and Jamaica and made and was eventually knighted Spanish in the Caribbean scourge of the Morgan wrecked in 1671 while carrying Morgan’s ships were governor of Jamaica. raid Panama City. and his men to and the National Geographic, the Waitt Institute, Atmospheric Administration, the first tangi- said the discovery provides de Cultura de Panama Instituto Nacional the activities of Morgan in Panama, whose raid led to ble archaeological link to the The joint American-Panamanian team has been explor- destruction of Panama City. River since 2008, and the cannons were measured ing the mouth of the Chagres and studied by Dr. Ruth Brown, formerly with the Royal and photographed in 2008 internationally renowned early cannon expert. The Armouries in the UK and an to bring the cannons to the surface, but treasure archaeologists had not intended working at the site so the artifacts were taken to pre- hunters have apparently been vent their theft. of saltwater intrusion and chemical changes that, Panama Viejo to reverse centuries their disintegration. The Patronato Panama Viejo has if left untreated, will result in in conservation at its laboratory facility, the only more than 15 years of experience in the treatment and preservation of metals. one in the country, specializing — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 [email protected] please contactplease Danny Donelan on For more information atPort securing about Louis aberth Marina, 24 hours adaytowelcome you. Marinas, and our friendly are and knowledgeable staff onhand Port Louis Marina is owned and by operated Camper &Nicholsons flights toMiami, New York and London. The island also benefits from its own international airport, with direct broadband and more. including exemplary dockside facilities, 24-hour security, marina-wide You’ll enjoy all theconvenience themarina and luxury has tooffer, at Port Louis Marina is even more affordable. Now, with our new rates for theforthcoming season, aberth the unspoilt Grenadines. adjacent totheisland’s capital, it’s for base cruising theperfect marinasfull-service in theCaribbean. With its location spectacular Port Louis Marina is justifiably known appointed, asoneofthebest beautiful, welcoming, affordable Port Louis Marina, Grenada – EGYPT |ITALY |MALTA |TURKEY www.cnmarinas.com/plm + 1 (473) 415 0837 oremail WEST

INDIES New Season Rates – 1 December to 31 to –1December New Rates Season May please contact us for a personalised quote. apersonalised for us contact please periods, 100 longer of above For LOA, yachts bookings feet for and O nfe al /tMnhy$f/a 6 mths $/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day Daily$/ft LOA infeet pt 0 17 14 $1.23 $1.49 $1.75 up to100 pt 5$.5$.5$0.95 $0.84 $0.77 $0.70 $1.15 $0.56 $1.02 $0.94 $0.85 $1.35 $0.68 $1.20 $1.10 up to65 $1.00 up to60 $0.80 up to50 up to40 up to32 pt 0$.0$.5$1.19 $0.98 $1.45 $1.19 $1.70 $1.40 up to80 up to75 APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

WILFRED DEDERER . for more Irie http://blogs. during the past www.handsacross- raft trip. Punning on raft trip. Punning Compass anticipates a landfall in An-Tiki http://gasballoon.com/antiki : it’s brunch, not lunch, and those An-Tiki . or AM is drifting across the Atlantic with octo- is drifting across An-Tiki , goes to press, contributors are invited to our annual pre-Bequia www.an-tiki.com . Kon-Tiki . For more pictures, click the appropriate link in the right . For more pictures, click the appropriate link in the right . special! we welcome new advertiser Akwaba of Martinique in the Compass Compass Contributors! Compass Compass Compass www.itsirie.com http://xwaters.com/blogs/liesbets-blog Continued from previous page Continued from • The relatively young and multi-cultural cruising couple Mark Kilty (USA) and • The relatively young and multi-cultural cruising couple visiting schools and libraries • This winter, the Hands Across the Sea crew has been Calling All If you’ve had an article, photo or poem published in the If you’ve had an article, photo or poem published in the • Sailing for the environment! Keep up with Oceanswatch doings at • Sailing for the environment! Keep up with Oceanswatch Cruisers’ Site-ings the in the Caribbean in following • Interest is growing Welcome Aboard! In this issue of The annual Compass Writers’ Brunch is held just at the beginning of the Bequia Space is limited so please RSVP by April 15th to [email protected] or Good to have you with us! Join the Brunch bunch! Regatta celebration than three years. Mark and Liesbet left from Maryland and slowly made their way to than three years. Mark and Liesbet left from Maryland around for the last two the Eastern Caribbean where they have been hopping until they passed years. Dogs Kali and Darwin joined them on all the adventures Stories, reports and pic- away. They plan to maintain this cruising lifestyle indefinitely. tribulations can be found on tures about their experiences, daily life, and trials and their blog Liesbet Collaert (Belgium) have been sailing on their 35-foot catamaran Liesbet Collaert (Belgium) have been sailing on their 35-foot and teachers, local librari- in the Eastern Caribbean, meeting the school principals who are part of the ans, US Peace Corps Volunteers, and concerned parents To hear what the folks in Caribbean Literacy and School Support (CLASS) program. say, visit the Caribbean who are carrying out this work have to Mac’s Pizzeria in Bequia. Please arrive at 10:00 thesea.net/HandsLog.htm 12 months, you are cordially invited to bring a guest and join us at this year’s 12 months, you are cordially invited to bring a guest and 21st at the ever-popular Compass Writers’ Brunch. It takes place on Thursday, April column. To get a feel for what living on a small cruising/sailing catamaran in the column. To get a feel for what living on a small cruising/sailing and adventure website tropics is all about, check out their blog on the watersport XWaters: St. Martin. Anthony says, ‘We don’t know when we will reach it… it is over 500 St. Martin. Anthony says, ‘We don’t know when we will weather looks good, but we miles away, we are traveling at about three knots, the did travel backwards a couple of days ago!’ oceanswatch.org/Caribbean Update! As this issue of end up coming into the into the Bahamas, but bets are now on that they may Windwards. Follow their trip at — aboard. BVI resident David Hildred Smith and friends including genarian Anthony was to drift Water–Aid. Their original aim the trip to raise money for They are doing the name of the famous raft the name of the who arrived at noon last year missed out! Easter Regatta, so you can stay on for a whole weekend of fun. The Writers’ Brunch is absolutely free — it’s our way of saying a special thank-you to everyone who helps make the phone Sally at (784) 457-3409. We look forward to seeing you there. Market Place section, pages 42 through 45. APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 rather thantravelthroughdangerouswatersontheirown.” the processandthenimplementingaplansotheycanshiptodesignatedports ently now.Dockwiseiscommittedtoassistingtheminallphasesoflearningabout not previouslythoughtaboutshippingasanalternative,buttheyarethinkingdiffer- “By virtueoftheirindependentandadventurousnature,somethesesailorshad southeastern AsiatotheMediterranean,”saidDYTPresidentClemensvanderWerf. even ifitisdrivenbyunfortunatecircumstances. arrangements withthird-partycarriers,andlogisticallycanfulfillalmostanyrequest, of semi-submersible”float-on/float-off”yachtcarriers,alsocoordinateslift-on/lift-off Salalah, OmantoMarmaris,Turkeythismonth.Thecompany,bestknownforitsfleet on thispage. though itmayappeartobeminor,becausetheycansometimesturnintobigproblems. should bemadeouttoyou,nottheinsurer. not paidtheinvoice,insurerswillreimburserepairers/suppliersdirectly.Invoices arrange reimbursementinaccordancewiththepolicyconditions.Whereyouhave tion, thereceiptedinvoice(s)shouldbesubmittedtoyourbroker.Insurerswillthen estimate, youmaygiveinstructionstorepairersproceedorthesupplierssupply. form thebasisforofferofsettlement.Wheninsurersgivetheirapprovaltoan you directly. you theirname,addressandcontactinformationnormallyaskthemto instruct asurveyortoinspectthedamageorinvestigateloss.Insurerswillgive obtain atleasttworepairestimatesifpossible. while youawaitanestimateastheclaimcanberegisteredinmeantime.Tryto cost shouldaccompanythis.Thereturnoftheclaimformnotbedelayed should beforwardedtothem. advised immediatelyofthecircumstancesaccidentandanywrittensuit contact informationofindependentwitnesseswheneverpossible.Insurersshouldbe received. Leavethistotheinsurer’slawyers.Itisimportantobtainnamesand appear between5:00 inauguration ofthewebsite15monthsago. promotional programcreatedtothankon-linecustomersfortheirsupportsincethe website, thecompanyisintroducing‘IslandWaterWorldHappyHours’—aspecial ties, police andtheCrimeNumbernoted. have insurance.Anytheftormaliciousdamageshouldbereportedpromptlytothe equipment fromfurtherdamage.Considerwhatstepsyouwouldtakeifdidn’t telephone, faxore-mail. make iteasy: is notdonethenproblemswillarise.Whenyouneedtomakeaclaimhere’show and throughouttheclaimprocess,thensettlementwillbeeasyquick.Ifthis why youhaveinsurance.Iftheproperproceduresarefollowedatbeginning St. Luciaandsincelastyear,oneinCuraçao. cent discount,greatdealsandgiveaways. entire CaribbeanBasinatverycompetitiveprices.Onlineshoppersenjoytenper- pany deliversmarineproductsviaFedEx,LIATandvariouscargocompaniestothe handful oftrueCaribbeanOnlineShops,withheadquartersinSt.Maarten.Thecom- islandwaterworld.com, watchoutandmakeadeal!” Managing DirectorofIslandWaterWorld.“Allyouneedtodoisconnectwww. BUSINESS BRIEFS “Due toincreasedpiracy,cruisingsailorsarealteringtheirplansforgettingfrom Dockwise YachtTransport(DYT)willtransport20privatecruisingyachtsfrom Dockwise CarriesCruisingYachtstoSafety For moreinformationonInsuranceConsultantsofGrenadaLimitedseead Always contactyourbrokerimmediatelyontheoccurrenceofanyincident,even When therepairshavebeencompletedorreplacementssuppliedtoyoursatisfac- The completedclaimformestimatesandthesurveyor’sreport,ifapplicable,will Depending ontheextentorcircumstancesofdamage,insurersmaydecideto A claimformwillhavetobecompletedandsenttheinsurer.Estimatesofrepair “Once aweek,wewillpostan‘unbeatable’nighttimespecialwhichonly Birgit Rothelreports:TocelebratethesuccessofIslandWaterWorld’se-commerce Island WaterWorld’sNight-TimeWebsiteSpecials If theaccidenthasresultedinpersonalinjuryordamagetopropertyofthirdpar- All thatisexpectedofyouactreasonablytopreserveyourvesselandits You shouldreportthecircumstancesassoonpossibletoyourbrokerbyletter, Insurance ConsultantsofGrenadaLimitedreports:Accidentshappenandthat’s Insurance Matters For moreinformationseeadonpage48. Island WaterWorldMarinehastwostoresonStMaarten,Grenada,one Island WaterWorld’se-commercewebsite,www.islandwaterworld.com,isoneofa do notadmitliability PM and8:00 or instructlawyersacknowledgeanycorrespondence AM ESTthefollowingday,”saysSeanKennelly, cial airtransportservicesbetweenMontserratandAntigua. of MontserratthatSVGAirhasbeenapprovedtooperatedailyscheduledcommer- into thefreezone. when theyachthasbeentoaforeignportandback,orcangoback Yemeni portofAden. States afteritwasthetargetofasuicideattackcarriedoutinyear2000at company, DockwiseLtd.,transportedthedestroyer tors aroundtheworld.” ules usedbyourownDockwisevesselsaswellallianceswithheavy-liftopera- can tohelpsailorsmeettheirneeds,utilizingextensiveshippingroutesandsched- crews toensuresafeandefficientpassagesbywayofshipping.“Wewilldoallwe than twodecades,DYThasbeenworkingone-on-onewithowners,captainsand on ourcollectiveyachtingfamily,”saidvanderWerf,emphasizingthatformore hijacking theiryachtofftheSomalicoast. recently, SomalipiratestookhostagesevenDanes,includingthreechildren,after hijacked bypiratesoffthecoastofOmanwerekilledtheircaptors,andmore —Continuedonnextpage the-shelf consumablesandspares.Thereisoneexception: all innovativesystemcomponentsarebuilttoallowtheuseofwidelyavailableoff- makes ECHOTecthepracticalchoiceforcruisersaswellcommercialusersisthat order toachieveultimatereliability,performanceandcost-efficientoperation.What off-the-shelf parts,ECHOTecengineersandbuildsmoreproprietarycomponentsin Martinique, andalsoasfarafieldGuyanaJamaica. Kitts, St.Marten,UnionIsland,Mustique,Grenada,Lucia,Barth’s,Anguillaand Caribbean, notablybetweenBarbados,Nevis,Bequia,Canouan,St.Vincent, ny operatesscheduledandcharterflightsthroughoutalltheislandsof Lucia andGrenada,withhangarsinSt.Vincent,BequiaCanouan.Thecompa- ters toAntiguaandneighbouringislands. 4:00 Two dailyreturnflightscommencedinMarch,departingAntiguaat7:00 Getting toMontserratjustgoteasierwiththeannouncementbyGovernment SVG AirNowFliesAntiguatoMontserrat For moreinformationonCuraçaoMarineseeadpage24. This willbearealimprovementfortheyachtingindustryonCuraçao. No TimeRestrictiononLong-TermStorageatCuraçaoMarine For moreinformationseeadonpage18. Dockwise YachtTransportprovidesservicestotheCaribbean. Helping intimesofcrisisisnotnewtoDYT.Onetheshipsownedbyitsparent “These attacksonprivatecruisingyachtsaredeeplydisturbingandanassault Van derWerfexplainedthatinmid-February,fourAmericansaboardasailboat While manywatermakermanufacturersaresatisfiedbysimplyassemblingstandard ECHOTec’s NewElementSavesWater For moreinformationseeadonpage32. SVG Airhasbeeninoperationsince1990,andisbasedSt.Vincent,Barbados, PM , anddepartingMontserratat7:30 AM and4:30 USS Cole PM extension canbeobtained maximum. Afterthat,an be extendedto12months for sixmonths.Thispermitcan a new(cruising)permitgood cruise Curaçao,theywillget prepare fordepartureorto crew returntoCuraçao extensions, etcetera. of obtainingpermit island, withoutthehassle while theownerisoff age intheyardindefinitely tus, ayachtcanstayinstor- new entry. eign port,returnandgeta clear out,makeatriptofor- ger staystheyachthadto 12 monthsmaximum.Forlon- which couldbeextendedto stay inCuraçaoforsixmonths, yachts receivedapermitto time restriction.Previously, yard tostoreyachtswithout free-zone status,enablingthe it willbeobtainingCustoms . SVGAircanalsoaddchar- When theownerand/or Now, withthefree-zonesta- Curaçao Marineannounces backtotheUnited AM and APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS WATER, ICE, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE CARIBEE BATIK ... VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch (range limited by the hills) West Indies. WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent &

PM , an exile publica- Cuba News , but yacht services are avail- AM Services include hot freshwater show- Services include hot freshwater Also, take a break on land in the For more information visit Dominica, offering sailors a modern Dominica, offering sailors a on the and convenient land base can find island. At Drop Anchor sailors sturdy dock a newly built facility with a or three- located just a 15-minute walk capi- minute bus ride from Dominica’s tal city, Roseau. tanks, er, WiFi, clean water for filling bottled provisions (including cases of plus water, beer, liquor and soda, and select frozen and fresh goods), assistance with tour, taxi, car rental and other booking services. Yachts can also tie up to the dock for free overnight stays, sea conditions permitting. relaxing bar area of Drop Anchor where traditional and exotic cocktails are served along with bar snacks. Weekend live-music events are also regularly scheduled. The bar is open Wednesday through Saturday 12:30 to 12 able around the clock. www. DropAnchorDominica.com or call on VHF 16. Fantasy Island Marina’s Blakeslee on Leave Jerry Blakeslee, dockmaster at Fantasy Island Marina in Roatan, Honduras, and Seven Seas Cruising Association will take over as interim dockmaster; contact him at S/V MiLady Continued from previous page Continued from Product water from any reverse-osmosis watermaker has little salt content and is watermaker has little salt content from any reverse-osmosis Product water that contains a mixture of minerals post-treatment element also The ECHOTec For more information visit www.echotecwatermakers.com. in Dominica New Bar and Yacht Services Services recently opened in the Roseau Bay area of Drop Anchor Bar and Yacht very soft and acidic because of the removal of alkaline mineral constituents of the of alkaline mineral constituents acidic because of the removal very soft and significant- reverse-osmosis product requires similar to rainwater, seawater. Therefore, ECHOTec is the and other detergents. to rinse off soap, shampoo ly more freshwater a proprietary this problem by using manufacturer to combat first yacht watermaker some hard- mineral dispenser returns system. The newly developed post-treatment that saves up to low maintenance solution and offers a practical, ness to the water your fresh water. 50 percent of correcting pH only enough to reach a neutral equilib- returns bicarbonate alkalinity, corrosion on metal tanks, boilers, washing machines rium. This dramatically reduces also water. As the water is slightly re-mineralized, this will and plumbing due to acidic improve its taste. — Cruising Station Host will be taking a leave of absence from April 1st to the end of Cruising Station Host will be taking a leave of absence repaired, over 300 feet July. Jerry says, “A lot has been happening here: old docks area”, so he’s taking a of new dock space added and a deck built in the cruisers’ well-deserved break! Jim Hendricks of the marina. [email protected] for information concerning Marina Upgrades for Cuba Dale Westin reports: According to the January issue of upgrades and new facil- tion from Florida, Cuba is gearing up with a variety of marina The feeling is that onceities in anticipation of a relaxation of the USA travel embargo. ground will evolve includingthe travel ban is lifted, a new Central Caribbean cruising coast of Jamaica.the Cuban south coast, the Cayman Islands and the north as “marinas”. The plans callCuba presently has eight south coast locations that qualify creation of nine new anchor- for an additional five marinas on the south coast and the Bay, Cuba (not the US one!),age areas. New marinas are forecast for Guantánamo the Garden of the Queen, onjust east of Cape Cruz (about due north of Port Antonio), in the far westernthe east side of the Isle of Youth and to the east of Guanacabibes north coast.province. Nine additional marinas are forecast for the country’s Developers of the new facilities include companies from the United Kingdom, Spain, Canada and the Caribbean. USA investors are forbidden under the Trading with The Enemies Act from business ventures in Cuba. When will all this happen? Only time will tell! Excerpted from Errol Flynn Marina’s Docklines newsletter, www.errolflynnmarina.com. APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 AMERICAS |CARIBBEAN |MIDDLE EAST GLOBALISLAND YACHTING NOW OPEN Maximum draft: 11ft draft: Maximum 5in/3.5m 132ft/40m length: Max. 256 slips/4 megayacht slips Brand new facilities and a staff thatisand astaff friendly andkeen onpleasing customers. Marina is Santa Marta poised acentral tobecome destination t for Tucked into oneof themost stunning coastal areas of theCaribb sailers andyachtsmen alike. Newly built from theground up, Marina lays Santa within Marta abeautifully sheltered bay, with beauty. Snow-capped mountains, natural parks andwarm make beaches this historic anintriguing city destination cruisers, for s F +57.5.423.5995 F +57.5.421.5037T ”W ’57.37 º12 74 ”N 4 ’29.2 11º14 SANTA MARTA, COLOMBIA MARINA SANTA MARTA BRAND NEWLOCATION.BRAND IGY HOSPITALITY. Helicopter pad authority, port On-site Maximum 29ft beam: 6in/9m immigration andcustoms and from Panama, Venezuela, Aruba, Trinidad andTobago. WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM |1.888.IGY.MARINAS For information orreservations Santa Marta, Colombia Carrera 1, No. 22-93 ean, Marina Santa Marta, now opentothepublic, is surrounded

Electricity, WiFi andwater Bathrooms and showers Privately sheltered bay 24-hour guards security www.igy-marinasantamarta.com www.igy-marinasantamarta.com www.marrinasantamarta.com.co [email protected] VHF Channel 16, 72 Fuel services State-of-the-art Technomarine floating docks COLOMBIA hose cruising to warm service portfishers, by natural APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 VHF CH 16 phone 473 444 2400 www.lepharebleu.com [email protected] at Rhythms at Rainbow Beach PM

- fine dining on a unique, historical lighthouse ship - breakfast, lunch and dinner served all day at the Pool-Bar Restaurant Restaurants Even with the ban on longlining gear, sharks are still considered at risk in Even with the ban on longlining gear, sharks are of Parliament in 1959 and The Bahamas National Trust was established by an Act For more information visit www.bnt.bs. St. Croix’s Reef Jam Coming in May Reef Jam 2011 will take Celebrate the reef at the largest beach party on St. Croix! ‘Protect Bahamian Sharks’ Campaign ‘Protect Bahamian has joined the and marine wildlife artist, world-renowned scientist Dr. Guy Harvey, National the 1990s, led by The Bahamas on longline fishing gear in “Due to a ban Reef Jam is a grassroots, non-profit organization with a mission to “encourage Reef Jam is a grassroots, non-profit organization with the whole family including This fourth annual musical fundraiser has activities for For more information, visit www.ReefJam.com. shark populations,” said Eric Carey, Executive Director of The Bahamas National shark populations,” said Eric Carey, Executive Director destinations for div- Trust. “The Bahamas is now one of the premier shark-watching for the national economy, ers, reeling in US$800 million over the past 20 years according to the Bahamas Diving Association.” are currently no specific Bahamian waters owing to other methods of fishing. “There said Matt Rand, director laws in The Bahamas protecting these amazing creatures,” Group. “We are working with of global shark conservation for the Pew Environment measures that will con- The Bahamas National Trust to raise awareness to establish serve healthy shark populations before it is too late.” resources of The Bahamas. is mandated with the conservation of natural and historic in the world with the The BNT is the only known non-governmental organization mandate to manage a country’s entire national park system. place on Sunday, May 29th from 1:00 to 10:00 growing ranks of individuals and organizations calling for strict regulations to ban calling for strict regulations of individuals and organizations growing ranks the program, Dr. Bahamas. In support of fishing of all sharks in The the commercial logo and Bahamian Sharks” campaign a custom-designed “Protect Harvey released He says, meet with government officials. while visiting Nassau to poster in March by over- driven to the brink of extinction of sharks are now being “Many species The loss of demand for shark fin soup.” mostly by the Far East’s exploitation, fueled to the marine ecosystem. could cause irreversible damage these animals one of the few places in the world with relatively healthy Trust, Bahamian waters are in Frederiksted. education and outreach.” marine conservation and stewardship through community used to support local marine All proceeds from the annual musical fundraiser will be education and conservation efforts on St. Croix. games and demonstrations, live music, a family activity zone with marine-related traditional food vendors, T-shirt sales and raffle items, a Reef Rap competition for local High School students, guest speakers, information booths and much more! Petite Calivigny Bay, St. George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS 12°00‘11N / 61°43‘29W POS 12°00‘11N W.I., Grenada George‘s, St. Petite Calivigny Bay, Megaptera ) can grow to 16 ) can grow to 16 Guy Harvey filming a tiger shark in The Bahamas Humpback whales ( Mochima National Park. Mochima National Park. novaengliae metres in length and weigh up to 36,000 kilos. The humpbacks feed only during the summer in the polar regions and migrate to the tropical and subtropical waters to breed and give birth during the winter. During the winter they fast, surviving on their fat reserves. The species feeds primarily on krill and small fish. Like the other great whales, the humpback whale was exces- sively hunted and its population

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ECO-NEWS CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN For more information visit www.grenadinesdive.com. Humpback Whale Sighted at Mochima about two miles off On March 4th, a group of tourists traveling by water-taxi Born in Bequia and now based in Union The Marine Park was chosen as the lob- Why will they do this in the peak of lobster Why will they do this in the Grenadines Dive Saves Lobster Lives! Grenadines Dive Saves Lobster February, scubaMarslyn Lewis reports: In was reduced by 90 percent before the International Whaling Commission moratori- was reduced by 90 percent before the International Whaling um was implemented in 1966. Since then, the population has partially recovered, but entanglements in fishing gear, collisions with boats and noise remain sources of concern. The current global population is estimated at some 80,000 individuals. the Venezuelan coast between the town of Lecherias and Isla Chimana Grande and Isla Chimana Grande the Venezuelan coast between the town of Lecherias cavorting in the waters of were treated to the rare sight of a humpback whale Island, Glenroy Adams who has been diving the waters of the Southern Grenadines for more than 20 years says that working to pre- serve the marine life in these waters has always been top priority. He thinks this proj- ect can offer new hope for the future of this project of Grenadines Dive, iconic marine animal and pledges to make it an ongoing delighted to be a part of such sharing this unique experience with his guests who are an endeavour. sters’ new home because it is a protected no- fishing zone, which offers a better chance for their survival and reproduction. Ultimately future generations of lobsters can migrate with the current to neighbouring reefs to rebuild the depleted lobster population of the Southern Grenadines. season when there are so many tourists crav- season when there are so many sound the alarm ing a tasty lobster meal? To The long-term about over-fishing of lobsters. lobster survival of the Southern Grenadines’ more than any population means so much short-term financial gain. diving guests from Petit St. Vincent Resort anddiving guests from Petit St. Grenadines Dive’s into their pocketsGlenroy Adams, reached deep environmentto express their love for the marine spiny lobsters.by rescuing the lives of several several liveGlenroy and his guests purchased these were thenlobsters from a fisherman, and of the Tobago Caysplaced on the sheltered reef plate.Marine Park instead of on a APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Nearing thefinishinGrenada’sSeniorNationalTeamSailingcompetition Grenada’s sailingcommunitiesofCarriacou,Gouyave, decades ofhistorywatchedhigh-octaneracingbetween second placelastyearandwinningin2009. Martinique returnstothetoppositionaftertaking third placeprizeofUS$250goingtoCarriacou.Petite held ontosecondplaceforaUS$500prize,withthe the title,trophyandUS$1,000prize.Gouyave the PetiteMartiniqueteamcrossedlinefirsttotake changed repeatedlyasthemarkswererounded,but village ofGouyave,rightfromthestartline.Positions Petite MartiniqueandGrenada’s“fishingcapital”,the In theMatchRaceFinal,fightwasonbetween held offGrandAnseBeachFebruary4ththrough6th. Grenada SailingFestivalDigicelWorkBoatRegatta Martinique returnedtothetoppositionat2011 One ofthebiggestcrowdsinevent’snearlytwo Sailors fromthetinyGrenadineisleofPetite ‘Champion ofChampions’ Title at Digicel Work BoatRegatta Petite MartiniqueRegains from Nanny Cay then toUSAorEurope toBermuda www.carib1500.com Fun Cruising Rallies! GRENADA SAILINGFESTIVAL2011 in theJunioreventsponsoredbyCocaColaand event aheadofPetiteMartiniqueandSauteurs, Gouyave tookfirstintheUnitedInsuranceSenior Race Finalsallcommunitiesgainedpodiumplaces: mine theNationalChampionofChampions. sailed aboardafleetoflocallybuiltGSF16stodeter- class winners,whothenenteredtheMatchRaceFinals sphere wascharged.Aseriesofracesdeterminedthe Voop, Pattern,Clorox,Confidence competitors withnewlybuiltboats— Ranking, NowFor Riot Act,Classic,Unity,Endeavour,Swift,Planass,Top fore itsownclass.Well-knowncompetitorsincluding village generallyhavingitsownstyleofboatandthere- boat competitionstartswithclassracing,each Petite Martinique,SauteursandWoburn.Thework The racingwasastougheverandintheMatch Join usinMay 2011 and or Etierone www.worldcruising.com —andtheatmo- werejoinedbynew 48 Hours,Wet, the PetiteMartiniqueteamacceptsitsawards Below: Onceagain‘ChampionofChampions’, and theircoaches Above: 2011JuniorDinghySailingparticipants www.grenadasailingfestival.com. Isle FishHouseandSpiceFireworks. Auto Supplies,Grenlec,GlenelgSpringWater,Spice Electrical Contractors,SouthernElectrical,Steele’s Turbulence Ltd,Court’s,Deyna’sTastyFoods,Grenada Horizon YachtCharters,SpiceIslandMarineServices, Cola, SOLECLtd.,IslandDreamsYachtServices, & Minors,BudgetMarine,TrueBlueBayResort,Coca Mount GayRum&HeinekenwiththeiragentBryden Tourism, Digicel,UnitedInsurance,FLOW,ScotiaBank, sponsors andsupporters:theGrenadaBoardof of theIndependencecelebrations. set pieceinthecountry’snationalcolours—ahighspot display courtesyofSpiceIslandFireworks,endingwitha Boat Regattawasroundedoffwithawonderfulfireworks offer. The2011GrenadaSailingFestivalDigicelWork Kitchen, whereallthefavouritetraditionaldisheswereon arts andcraftsonsale,foodstallsinaCommunity entertainment, gamesandbeachactivities.Therewere Grenada’s Independenceweekend,thecrowdenjoyedlive third toMozartSt.John. place wenttoQuesiPaul,secondJustinJames,and and thirdtoBrentMcQueen.InMosquitoClassfirst went toNoahBullen,secondplaceRyanMorain, windy conditionswell.InOptimistClassfirstplace Fourteen youngsailorstookpartandhandledthe and sponsoredbyBudgetMarineCocaCola. the GrenadaYachtClubandGouyaveSailingSchool hosted bytheGrenadaSailingFestival,organized young sailorsinaJuniorDinghyRacingChampionship was alsotreatedtoashowoftalentfromGrenada’s in third. place, Woburntooksecond,withSauteursonceagain Budget Marine,thecrewfromCarriacoutookfirst hdhh ddh d Oh For moreinformationvisit The GrenadaSailingFestivalwishestothankits Over theentiretwo-dayevent,whichcoincidedwith For thefirsttimeonGrandAnseBeachcrowd APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

LUCY TULLOCH / WWW.THELUCY.COM TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM crew: ‘We couldn’t race in the first two editions, but it was third time lucky crew: ‘We couldn’t race in the first two editions, but it The start of the 2011 edition of the Caribbean’s premier offshore race The start of the 2011 edition of the Caribbean’s premier Thanks to John Burnie and Louay Habib for information in this report. Thanks to John Burnie and Louay Habib for information http://caribbean600.rorc. For RORC Caribbean 600 results in all eight classes, visit Sojana’s and what a magnificent race this is!’ org/blog/race-information/results/index.html. events in the 2011 Atlantic Ocean Racing Series. This series is in its inaugural year events in the 2011 Atlantic Ocean Racing Series. This world. and includes seven of the great bluewater races in the th , which smashed Windrose also won

- 19 th Rambler 100 Rambler 100 Rambler 100 . It was the first ever 2011 arrived. , Kenny Read said, “That was a Sojana to the 155-foot schooner April 14 Rambler 100 Rambler 100’s “Hitting those speeds hour after hour was just

, which set the record for this race in 2009, and High Tension, agreed: Photo by Ted Martin, www.photofantasyantigua.com Martin, Ted by Photo ICAP Leopard 24th ICAP Leopard at the Antigua Yacht Club (268) 460-1799 at the Antigua Yacht , chartered by Andrew McIrvine. Annual For more information, please contact the Secretary For [email protected] www.antiguaclassics.com RORC CARIBBEAN 600 — A Race 600 CARIBBEAN of Age Comes RORC After the Maxis crossed the finish line, it was a full ten hours before the third After the Maxis crossed the finish line, it was a full race in the Caribbean and This event has quickly established itself as THE offshore With 22 knots or more in the gusts, strong winds launched the third edition of the With 22 knots or more in the gusts, strong winds launched Event co-founder John Burnie describes the 600-mile course, which weaves Event co-founder John Burnie describes the 600-mile The battle for line honours was between the two canting keel 100-foot Maxis, Mike The battle for line honours was between the two canting yacht, Peter Harrison’s magnificent 115-foot ketch, racing calendar. The one of the ‘must do’ offshore yacht races of the international to Montego Bay) are the first RORC Caribbean 600 and the Pineapple Cup (Miami the race overall on corrected time, to capture the RORC Caribbean 600 Trophy. the race overall on corrected time, to capture the RORC RORC (Royal Ocean Racing Club) Caribbean 600 across the starting line off English RORC (Royal Ocean Racing Club) Caribbean 600 across 34 yachts from 15 different Harbour, Antigua on February 21st. A record entry of Belgium, Canada, the nations included yachts representing Antigua, Australia, Ireland, Italy, Lithuania, the Cayman Islands, France, Germany, Great Britain, The fleet ranged from Bernie Netherlands, South Africa, Spain and the United States. Evan-Wong’s Antiguan Mumm 36, lot of fun but hard work for a while. You do something like sail around the world and lot of fun but hard work for a while. You do something is no time to take any sleep. that is almost easy compared to this because there also a gorgeous course, it’s a You’re taking so many corners and turns, but it is part of the course was dream-come-true type of event. Probably the most memorable breeze and massive breaking at night with a full moon at the top of St. Maarten, big there doing 26 knots.” Clarke waves. It was huge fun and really cool, we came out of Murphy aboard the monohull course record by nearly four hours and very nearly eclipsed the mul- the monohull course record by nearly four hours and tihull record in the process, falling short by just nine minutes. crossed the finish line in Antigua with an elapsed time of one day 16 hours 20 min- crossed the finish line in Antigua with an elapsed time crew of Puma Ocean Racing, utes and two seconds. David’s team included the entire Race. which will be competing in the 2011-12 Volvo Ocean of Amsterdam One race track than a through 11 of the Leeward Islands, as “more like a Formula traditional windward leeward course”. George David’s Juan Kouyoumdjian-designed went to showdown between these two titans. Line honors Slade’s Farr-designed amazing. I couldn’t have asked for a more exciting sail…” APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 $2,000 checkforthird. Shaw andhissquad,alsobya2-nilscore,toearnthe Team BVIdispatchedveteranUKmatchracerSimon In determiningthirdandfourthplace,ColinRathbun’s won thelasttwoBudgetMarineMatchRacingCups. Marine CupavengedhislosstoHolmbergin2010. three finalsduringthisthirdrunningoftheBudget Heineken Regatta.Brady’s2-0victoryinthebest-of- racing eventinthelead-upto2011St.Maarten US$5,000 prizeforfirstplaceintheISAFGrade5match- ed theVirginIslands’PeterHolmbergtoclaim and hiscrewofChrisLarsonMarcPlaxtondefeat- Racing CuponMarch1st,NewZealand’sGavinBrady REGATTA NEWS Brady, Holmberg,RathbunandShawadvancedto Holmberg, whoearned$3,000forsecondplace,had In thedecidingraceofBudgetMarineMatch Brady DefeatsHolmberginBudgetMarineMatchCup visit www.heinekenregatta.com. Racing Cup,aswelltheGILLCommodores that’s ano-brainer.” we’re inSt.Maarten,whichisbeautiful.SoIthink six races.WecametodayanddidnineAnd you flytoEuropewithateamofsixguysanddo enjoy thisregattaverymuch,”hesaid.“Sometimes beer attheendofday.” we’re stillracingagainsteachotherandhavinga we’re acoupleoftheolderguysinsport.But America’s Cupandspentourlivesdoingthis.Now final run.Bradysays,“Wewerethebackboatandwe last weathermark,butmanagedtoovertakeonthe in JeanneauSunFast20sSt.Maarten. undefeated intheten-flightround-robinseries,sailed often fluky,shiftyseven-to13-knotwinds.Bradywas round robinonSimpsonBay,St.Maartenracedin the FinalFourineight-teamfieldafteranearlier For completeresultsoftheBudgetMarineMatch Will Bradybebacknextyeartodefendhistitle?“I Brady’s teamwasslightlybehindHolmbergatthe have comethroughthe Brady said.“Bothofus finals againwithPeter,” thing wasbeinginthe es. Theydidagreatjob.” race committeeandjudg- like thiswithoutafantastic “You can’thaveanevent Marine’s RobbieFerron. judges,” saidBudget good asitgets.” where. Thatracewasas Championships… any- Malaysia attheWorld match raceanywhere,in would notseeabetter a lotgoingon.Butyou many penalties,therewas to boatspeed.Therewere and againitcamedown and Marcwerepatient, slightly ahead.ButChris he cameoutofthatstart our gameplanwasand ter jobofidentifyingwhat but Petedidaslightlybet- dictated thetempoagain “The mostimportant “My hatgoesofftoour —Continuedonnextpage 30, finishedthirdoverall. en’s category.IntheLaserRadialClassBethLygoe, Bergasse, 16,placedfifthoverallandthirdinthewom- the women’schampionandfirstoverall,Raina scholarship recipientStephanieDevaux-Lovell,15,was ors madetheirmark.Inthe4.7LaserClass,Olympic through 9th. Schoelcher regatta,heldinMartiniquefromMarch5th 21st AnnualSemaineNautiqueInternationalde ors andtwocoachesreturnedtriumphantfromthe take placefromMarch1stthrough4th,2012. 1C, WendySchmidt’sSwan82, best Swaninthefleetfor2011waswinnerofCSA Jones oftheAntiguan-basedJ/30, Seacart 30, the Islandinopeningracewasimpressive Hans RobertNitsche’sDufour455. Overall Bareboatwinnerwas 1, wastheMostWorthyPerformeronSunday.The classes) wastheDubois90, Eggbert Schuett’s the team’scontributiontocharity.AnotherBareboat, Something Hot Odyssey 44, the SaturdaywaspresentedtoMariekePoulie’sSun Friday’s racing. NTG CupforMostWorthyPerformanceduringthe and BenBeer. crew thatincludedPeterHolmberg,MauriceBurg 32, Performance OverallwenttoMarkPlaxton’sMelges the Caribbean. North America,Australia,LatinAmericaand of tenknotsorless.CompetitorscamefromEurope, air affair,with191boatsin18classesracingbreezes March 4ththrough6th,willberememberedasalight- Among the80dinghiesonwater,St.Lucia’ssail- Lily Bergassereports:TheSt.Lucianteamofeightsail- St. LucianYouthSailorsShineinMartinique For fullresultsvisitwww.heinekenregatta.com. The 32ndannualSt.MaartenHeinekenRegattawill The awardforBest“J”wasacceptedbyTanner The PanamaJackCupforFastestMultihullAround The HeinekenCupforMostWorthyPerformanceon The St.MaartenCupfortheregatta’sMostWorthy The 31stAnnualSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta,sailed St. MaartenHeinekenLight-AirAffair Team INTAC Blanca Something Hot Team INTAC also receivedtheGoldendogCupfor , aBVIentrantwithanall-starisland Team Hamburg . TheFastestMonohull(Spinnaker , intheBareboat3Class. Genuine Risk. also wontheCaribserve- KH+P SeaYouLater Team Selene. , racinginBareboat Blue Peter , andthe , APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

and a , to St. and Pipedream all from the Rambler 100, Atrevida, goes to press. Wild Horses Leopard 3 Phaedo, and from the UK; and Richard Compass , the ’90s are depicted by , the ’90s are , Patrick Demarchelier’s Swan Vesper/Team Moneypenny Fenix White Wings and last year’s winner Rambler 100 Pipedream Jim Swartz’s Leopard 3 Puffy, For more information on the BVI Spring Regatta visit For more information on the 50 for Les Voiles de St. Barth de St. Barth is set for The second annual Les Voiles are Among other notables registered For more information, Oysters to Race in Grenada From April 11th through 16th, Port Louis Marina at St. that was used as the BVI Yacht Club house in 1972. as the BVI Yacht Club house that was used the bareboat highlights the addition of The ’80s stamp charter and the fact that the fleet to the regatta decade. on the map during that industry put Tortola of With a photo the water vying for position. spinnakers on was chosen because its owner is Peter Haycraft, a its owner is Peter Haycraft, was chosen because The addi- Regatta racing veteran. 40-year BVI Spring yachts specifically for one-design tion of a racecourse stamp. This in the most recent decade is remembered as this class was stamp features the IC24 fleet, and now attracts some of designed in the Caribbean For the first issue cover, the most talented local sailors. Resort is featured as it has the Nanny Cay Marina and Regatta and Sailing been home to the BVI Spring Festival for many years. www.bvispringregatta.org. yachts already registered April 4th through 9th, with 50 in five classes as this issue of last year,” said Donald “The regatta had a great start resident who ships his Tofias, a Newport, Rhode Island two W-76 yachts, Barth’s every year. 105-foot Herreshoff-designed schooner from Brazil; 105-foot Herreshoff-designed Mike Slade’s 100-foot Farr design, George David’s Balding’s Swan 60, 45, Lloyd Thornburg’s Gunboat 66, USA. Fresh from their duel for line honors in the RORC Caribbean 600, the battle between the two Super Maxis, is sure to turn some heads. visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com. George’s, Grenada will host an exclusive Oyster Regatta. Included will be a race around the island, an overnight stop and Lay Day at Le Phare Bleu marina on Grenada’s south coast, and dinners and parties in some of the island’s top venues, returning to Port Louis Marina for the prizegiving party and dinner. —Continued on next page went to press, the BVI Spring went to press, the BVI Spring Compass “Since the very first regatta, RTW has been a strong With the history of sailing as a primary economic and Meanwhile, Hedge Shuter reports that another fine Shuter reports that another Meanwhile, Hedge follows her fine performance This result for Abigail of four sailors from Abigail was part of a team For For full results visit www.cnschoelcher.webou.net. for Long-Running BVI Old Sponsors and New Stamps As this issue of Regatta was preparing to celebrate major milestones Regatta was preparing to celebrate 28th through April 3rd, at this year’s event, March anniversary and many including the regatta’s 40th sponsors, Mount Gay years of support from its oldest Road Town Rum, Heineken and their distributor partnership has Wholesale (RTW). These sponsors’ indelible icons: helped create two of the sport’s Heineken’s “greenies”. Mount Gay’s “red hats” and and loyal supporter of the BVI Spring Regatta,” said Delma Maduro, RTW’s Chief Executive Officer. “Our founder, Peter Haycraft — an avid sailor — was also a founding member of the BVI Spring Regatta. Over the years, we secured sponsorship deals with several of RTW’s exclusive brands. Mount Gay has been, and remains, a loyal sponsor from the very early years of the regatta. For about the past two decades Heineken came on board as a Gold sponsor.” social activity in the British Virgin Islands, the territory is known as “The Sailing Capital of the World”. As a trib- ute to the BVI Spring Regatta’s positive impact on the community, the 40th Anniversary commemorative stamp collection was unveiled on March 1st. Four stamps, with denominations ranging from 15 cents to two dollars, were issued and each depicts a different decade in the history of the regatta. The 1970s are remembered with a photo of the original boathouse performance by Trinidad & Tobago sailor Abigail by Trinidad & Tobago sailor performance fourth overall her place first female and Affoo, 12, saw Class at Schoelcher. in the Optimist Regatta in in the St. Valentine’s Day (10th out of 223) year’s rank- Abigail also leads this Florida in February. making great & Tobago and she is ing races in Trinidad Optimist run-up to the North American progress in the to be held in the US in August. Championships Optimist standings, Trinidad & Tobago. In the overall Myles Kaufmann 16th Derek Poon Tip placed 12th, and Kelly Ann Arrindell 23rd. sailing in St. Lucia visit www. more information on youth information on youth stluciayachtclub.com. For more visit www.ttsailing.org. sailing in Trinidad & Tobago Spring Regatta Continued from previous page Continued from Among the young men on the team, Marc Spurway, In the very competitive fleet of 50 Optimist dinghies, St. Lucia’s young sailors and their coaches would like At the first of a series of regattas scheduled this year in series of regattas scheduled At the first of a In Schoelcher’s 4.7 Laser Class, Stephanie Devaux- In Schoelcher’s 4.7 Laser Class, champion and first overall Lovell, 15, was the women’s with St. Lucia Consul to Below: A proud Team St. Lucia at right Martinique, Keats Compton, 14, finished tenth overall in the 4.7 Laser Class. In the Laser Radial Class Scott Anthony, 17, finished 11th, fol- lowed by Dylan Charles, 14, in 12th. Marcus Sweeney and Luc Chevrier finished 27th and 39th respectively. The dedicated guidance of sailing coaches Max Todd and Omari Scott paid off with the St. Lucia team producing its best results ever at this annual regatta. to thank St. Lucia Consul to Martinique, Keats Compton; sponsors IGY Marina and Ferrand’s Dairy; and all who showed their support of the St. Lucia Youth Sailing programme. preparation for the 2012 Olympic Games, both Beth and the 2012 Olympic Games, preparation for way to that they are well on their Stephanie proved regattas. at the Olympic qualifying being competitive — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Velsheda mighty J-Classyachtswillcometochallenge in 1988.Thereisalwaysabuzzaroundwhichofthe Stormy Weather, schooner, variety ofcompetitors.SteveMcLaren’snewest 50 and60yachtseveryyearenjoysawonderful Antigua ClassicYachtRegattahashostedbetween Yacht Challengefor2011.Nowinits24thyear,the soring theregatta’sfirstevent:PaneraiClassic Antigua Classics.” much aboutwinning—andthat’sthespiritof means tocompetehard,havefunandnotworry Don Street:“There’sanIrishexpression, 19th, ispraisedbypasttrophywinnerandraceofficer Classic YachtRegatta,tobeheldApril14ththrough MAYAG visitwww.mayag.net. www.oystermarine.com. Formoreinformationon on meals,transportationandvisitingattractions. agreed that45percentoftheirtravelbudgetisspent since yachtingvisitorsrespondingtoa2009survey growth shouldnotbelimitedtomarinebusinesses, this regatta.”AccordingtoMAYAG,economic already reportingagrowthinbusinessstemmingfrom Grenada. Severalmarine-basedcompaniesare significant achievementtobehostingitherein Grenada. Itisaprestigiousglobalregattaandit Regatta representsatremendousopportunityfor Grenada (MAYAG),AnitaSutton,says,“TheOyster Yacht SquadroninAuckland. Palma deMallorca;andtheRoyalNewZealand Squadron inCowes,UK;theRealClubNaútico been hostedinValencia,Spain;theRoyalYacht cruising yachtmarket.PreviousOysterRegattashave est craftsmen,areconsideredthe‘RollsRoyce’of — the WestIndiesRegattahasbecomeanannualfixture Barth’s fromApril29thtoMay1st. The hostisAntiguaYachtClubandPaneraispon- One oftheworld’spremierregattas,Antigua Antigua’s Class-icAct For moreinformationontheOysterRegattavisit President oftheMarineandYachtingAssociation Oyster yachts,hand-builtbysomeoftheworld’sfin- Started in2009byAlexisAndrewsandLoulouMagras, The thirdWestIndiesRegattatakesplaceinSt. Reconnecting theIslandswithTraditionalSail For moreinformationseeadonpage13. Continued frompreviouspage is atradition,infamilyboating and Elena Ranger , willraceaswellthefamous whichparticipatedinthefirstevent . craic , which like thisarenotathingofthepast The WestIndiesRegattaaimstoensurethatsights Memorial DayweekendhasturnedtheBritishVirgin the officialcommitteeboat. on itscircumnavigationtotakepartintheeventas masted barque Carriacou Sloops: guests willbethetwomostrecentlylaunched beach intheCaribbeanbylocalcraftsmen.Special island sloopsandschoonersthatwereallbuiltonthe local communitylooksforwardtotheevent. frequent visitorstoGustaviaintheolddays,and on theSt.Barth’scalendar.Islandtradingvesselswere Efraín Riverareports: 10th AnnualBVIPokerRun For moreinformationseeadonpage13. This yeartherewillberacingandlimingonboardten Picton Castle Zemi

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787.863.5 am @ a a j t theM , ardo ao t o l.c 4: , P .c 00 om u arina om e r p t o m 2 R , 8 i c 2 o APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Caribbean sailors can attend the meetings of the can attend the meetings Caribbean sailors For more information visit www.sailing.org. Upsurge in Interest for Rallies rallies continues to grow. Enthusiasm for joining sailing a highly successful ARCThis upsurge in interest follows Club’s circumnavigation Meanwhile, World Cruising World Cruising Club USA is now gearing up for the first For more information see ad on page 12. committees, and give their recommendations to the give their recommendations committees, and will affect policies and decisions that Council on the urge in the years to come. We the world’s sailors and to attend the conference Caribbean sailors its highest with the sailing world at become involved the setting Annual Conference is also levels. The ISAF year: The ISAF celebrated night of the for sailing’s most ask the of the Year Award. We Rolex World Sailors the Caribbean to join us in welcoming countries of the 130 countries who will more than 1,000 people from November. be visiting Puerto Rico next leading organizer of World Cruising Club, the world’s the busiest cruising rallies, recently experienced entries. January ever for enquiries and which started with 2332010 (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers), event record of 234 yachtsyachts, narrowly missing the ARC in 2011 haveset in 2007. Entries for the 26th a waiting list for places hasalready exceeded 225 and been limited to 225 tobeen opened. Numbers have and Rodney Bay. facilitate berthing in Las Palmas to attract interest. The rally, World ARC, continues is on its final stages current rally (World ARC 2010-11) towards the finish in with a fleet of 19 yachts sailing St. Lucia this month. World ARC 2012-13 will start from St. Lucia in January 2012, with more than 30 boats joining the rally from the start and more join- ing from Australia onwards. Current entries hail from 11 countries and include families sailing with chil- dren. World ARC circumnavigates via the Panama Canal, the Pacific Islands, Australia, Bali, Mauritius, Reunion, South Africa, St. Helena, Brazil and Grenada. This route is 1,000 nautical miles south of current pirate activity and completely avoids the Red Sea and Horn of Africa. year of their ownership of the popular Atlantic Cup rally, starting May 1st in Tortola. Participants will see gradual improvements in the events, as they become more visibly part of the World Cruising Club family, including a stronger emphasis on safety and more comprehensive pre-rally activities such as seminars and social events. The Sea Star Clinic runs from The Sea Star Clinic The three-day Scotiabank an This year’s event will follow June 20th through 22nd, with top June 20th through Agustin international coaches Bocha Pollitzer ‘Argy’ Resano, as well as and Manny Resano, USVI Optimist coach Santiago Galan teaching the registered sailors. The Sea Star Team Racing 23rd. event is scheduled for June International Optimist Regatta starts on June 24th. Ken Legler, head coach for the Tufts be University Sailing Team, will Principal Race Officer. Shoreside of activities include a parade nations, welcome party, raffle, ice cream social, bingo night and Caribbean-themed night, culminating with a beachside brunch and awards ceremony on June 26th. recy- eco-friendly theme, urging cling of all plastic water bottles

DEAN BARNES For more information contact scotiabankregatta@ ISAF Conference for Puerto Rico Eric A. Tulla, ISAF Vice-President reports: From More than 500 delegates will debate and decide on and use of free reusable water bottles; keeping all lunch bags, wrappings and waste out of the water; picking up any trash on shore and accepting drinks without plastic straws. gmail.com. For the Notice of Regatta and registration forms visit the St. Thomas Yacht Club at www.styc.net. November 3rd through 12th, Puerto Rico will host the Annual Conference of the International Sailing Federation (ISAF). This event brings sailing’s key deci- sion-makers from around the world together to build the future of the sport. This Annual Conference will be the first in ISAF’s history to be held in the Americas. the issues that shape the future of sailing, ranging from the Olympics and the America’s Cup to world cham- pionships and regattas held around the globe. them well, making them better members of our com- them better members them well, making and focus, discipline, self-reliance munity by teaching instincts environment. It hones natural respect for the their youngsters to push beyond and encourages leading to the pursuit of excellence.” comfort zones, Continued from previous page Continued from St. Thomas to Host Major Youth Competition Carol Bareuther reports: Between June 20th and Celebrating its 19th year as one of the first and larg- Lawrence Aqui, vice president of Scotiabank for the This event raises funds for charity and non-profit orga- funds for charity and non-profit This event raises visit www.pokerrunbvi.com. For more information Puerto Rico’s Jorge Gonzalez leads the pack in squally Puerto Rico’s Jorge Gonzalez leads the pack in squally weather at last year’s Scotiabank International Optimist Regatta 26th, the St. Thomas Yacht Club will host a week of Optimist dinghy training, and team and fleet racing including the Sea Star Clinic, the Sea Star Team Race, and Scotiabank International Optimist Regatta. est regattas in the Caribbean to promote youth sail- ing, the 2011 Scotiabank Regatta will see more than 90 entrants from around the world between eight and 15 years old compete in this Virgin Island Sailing Association and Caribbean Sailing Association sanc- tioned regatta. US and British Virgin Islands, comments, “For young people, sailing offers many life-lessons that will serve nizations in the British Virgin Islands. nizations in the — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 It was3:45 the Customsdock.Therewasonlyonespotavailable. harbor hadfendersout.Asailboatwasapproaching I realizednowwhymostoftheboatsanchoredin check intotheircountry.Markgaveherapuzzledlook. their socialactivities.Wehadexplainedwewantedto whole groupofofficialssittingoutside,chattingabout woman demandedfromherchair,afterwegreetedthe the 100-yearoldwreckof the aquamarinesea.Inmiddleofbaylies over St.John’sHarbour,thelagoon,DeepBayand takes abouttenminutesandoffersanamazingview hill atthenorthernendofbay.Ahikeupthere fortable. TheruinsofFortBarringtonsitatopthe northwest swellduringourvisit,itremainedcom- to anchorandtheholdingissuperb.Evenina harbor tostayinforabit.Thereisplentyofspace around thecornertoDeepBay,averyattractive care ofthecruisingpermit. where thewallislower.AvisittoPortAuthoritytakes but itispossibletotiethedinghyoneasternside, the deep-waterdock.Thisiscontainershipdock, see itfromeverywhereintheharbor),westoppedat Cathedral isadominantandprettylandmark(youcan work. Afteraquickvisittotown,wheretheAnglican minal, werefriendlyanddealtwithmostofthepaper- Customs andImmigration,nexttothecruiseshipter- a bittime-consumingandinconvenient.Thepeopleat checking in(bydinghy)provedtoberelativelyeasy,yet John’s thenextday. and checkedourselves ghy. WesworetoneveragainsetfootinJollyHarbour Antigua!” beforeweturnedaroundandleftinourdin- totally rejectedandcouldn’thelpbutsay,“Welcometo people, especiallywhentheygloatwithpower.Ifelt our principles.Wedon’tlikedealingwithunfriendly wanted? Ofcoursenot(gulp!),but…MarkandIhave obstructing aCustomsofficial.Wasthatwhatwe ening afineof10,000dollarsandjailsentencefor must havenevercheckedinelsewherebefore,threat- same time.Shetoldusitwasthelaw,indicatingwe take longbeforeshegotoffendedandoffensiveatthe cial andaskedwhythisharborwasdifferent.Itdidn’t late Januarythisyear.Wementionedtotheoffi- check inuntilwearrivedatJollyHarbour,Antigua er placewherewehadtobringourboatadock aboard ourcatamaran, Immigration closed. A “You havetobringyourboatin!”theCustoms After concludingtheofficialdom,webrought St. John’sHarbourhasafewdecentanchoragesand In almostthreeyearsofEasternCaribbeancruising by Liesbet Collaert Photo byOnnevanderWal Yacht atRest,MindEase PM , 15minutesbeforeCustomsand NTIGUA MAZES Irie , therehadnotbeenanoth- Irie inatthecapital,St. Andes , theonly Irie

and day-chartercatamarans. cruise shippassengersshowingupbypirate restaurant. Duringtheday,areagetsbusywith palm treesneartheRoyalAntiguanHotelandits stretch ofwhitesandwithplentyshadeunderthe no visibility.Thebeachconsistsofapleasant water isoftencloudy(especiallyonwindydays)with the ship’scarcassshouldbeworthwhile,but Bay. Asmallpartofitsticksabovewater.Snorkeling obstruction topayattentionwhenenteringDeep ‘Our bigadventureforthisyear’svisittoAntiguawasexploreitsnortheastcoast’

Our bigadventureforthisyear’svisittoAntiguawas

DESTINATIONS WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM St. Thomas TO THEEASTCOASTUSA Martinique TO THEMEDITERRANEAN St. Thomas St. Thomas St. Thomas Martinique Martinique Le Marin,Martinique DYT Representative Nadine Massaly CARIBBEAN SAILINGSCHEDULE —Continuedonnextpage white faces. During allourwanderings,wedidn’tseeanyother why, heanswered:“Iwanttoshowheryourcolor.” him. Hismotherwantedtoseeus…Whenweasked one ofthekidswantedustocomehishousewith etery onthehill.Nobodywasparticularlyfriendly,but ful ofsmallstoresandachurchoverflowingcem- fishing port,afewstreetswithsimplehouses,hand- ger thanwethought.Wediscoveredamodern-looking to checkoutthenightlifeintown,whichappearedbig- ships andmachinery.SinceitwasFriday,wedecided surrounded bymangroves,uglyfactoriesandrusted guide stokedourcuriosity.Weanchoredintheflatbay on aswimtoshore. many bigcementstructureswithholesinamazedme alternative tospendthenight.Anartificialreefof ing snorkelingrightoffthewestsidepresentsanice Quiet MaidenIslandwithheapsofshellsandinterest- ings imposethepresenceofabigfancyresortonyou. line, butthemanyman-madestructuresandbuild- reefs wereeasytoavoid.Palmtreesmarktheshore- Island andanchorednearprettyJumbyBeach.The of motoringintostrongheadwinds,wereachedLong to exploreitsnortheastcoast.Afteracoupleofhours Through June2011 Nwot 05/2011 03/2011 04/2011 Port 06/2011 Newport Everglades 06/2011 04/2011 03/2011 PalmadeMallorca Toulon Taranto Toulon Toulon Reading aboutthevillageofParhaminChrisDoyle’s DYT Martinique E-mail: [email protected] : Tel. +596596741507 • 1888SHIPDYT APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 cleared into Antigua at the colorful capital, St. John’s Irie Below: Above: Even near hotels, the beaches were not crowded Left: The author and her fiancé, Mark, find a bit of ‘solitude and bliss’ Left: The author and her fiancé, Mark, find a bit of ‘solitude ) and the snorkeling PM to 4:00 AM , this time being greeted by the residents. , this time being greeted by Irie Continued from previous page Continued from Great Bird Island is a joy to explore. A short walking trail brings you to the top, to explore. A short walking trail brings you to the top, Great Bird Island is a joy Nudging further east while dodging a bunch of reefs, we eyed Great Bird Island. dodging a bunch of reefs, we eyed Great Bird Island. Nudging further east while The place to be on Friday night was Sugar Apple Alley back in town. When we Apple Alley back in town. be on Friday night was Sugar The place to The road out of town brought us to a supermarket with a surprisingly decent selec- with a surprisingly town brought us to a supermarket The road out of off shore is not too bad. Mark and I were satisfied with our little weekend excursion off shore is not too bad. Mark and I were satisfied with we would move on to our east, before returning to our “base” in Deep Bay. Soon, before arriving in our all-time favorite for a few more days of beauty and pristinity, “Port of Business”, St. Martin. where the view is quite amazing, especially in the morning with the sun behind you. especially in the morning with the sun behind you. where the view is quite amazing, and off their breeding grounds with shrieking noises Tropicbirds try to chase you sky. Two small beaches offer provide a beautiful contrast with the majestic blue solitude and bliss outside of day trip hours (10:00 Good light is necessary to reach the outer islands. Even though the built-up shore- Good light is necessary to us were still visible, peace and quiet surrounded line and factories of the mainland saw sailboats venture all the way out here and we only in the anchorage. Not many in a Later on it would get more crowded, but not one more boat when we arrived. of swell did make it in, but the anchorages near Rabbit disturbing way. A little bit The clear, turquoise water is sprinkled with green Island were flat as a pancake. by the temptation to investigate their surroundings islands and we couldn’t resist island with a limestone arch, is a remarkable feature dinghy. Hell’s Gate, a small that stands out in the distance. arrived, nobody was there (yet), so we started with drinks and perked up when mas- with drinks and perked was there (yet), so we started arrived, nobody was going to be quite the party! When an hour later sive speakers showed up. This than Antiguans ordering food for take-out, we decided still nothing happened, other tasty local meal as well. The bartender and waiters were to have an affordable and Dance music was blaring out of the speakers extremely friendly and accommodating. of chicken, salad, steamed vegetables and sides while we enjoyed our barbecued the too much alcohol, we made our way back to pasta and rice. Before consuming dock and tion of groceries, even fresh produce, located on a “busy” intersection. Mark and I on a “busy” intersection. even fresh produce, located tion of groceries, of local guys beers and joined the bunch provisions and a couple of bought some sun went down. of “the scene” until the we watched and were part outside. There A small stand engaged in conversation. were scrutinized and Cars and pedestrians the fee of EC$5 and barbecued meat. For offered home-made dishes along the road complete! couldn’t have been more beers, the local experience (US$2) for two — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20

[email protected] www.barefootyachts Tusen TakkII Inset: Buddyboats, lighthouse atCayodeAgua walking acrossaspittothe Main photo:HunterandBarb anchored atIslaCubagua. anchorages. Weshortenedthattripto64nauticalmilesbyspendingthenight Tortuga soyoucansafelynegotiatetheentrancesaroundreefsandinto Tortuga) is86nauticalmiles,andyouneedtoplanforadaytimearrivalintoIsla unrest. Wewereuneasyandtookallprecautionstoavoidrobbery. abandoned thisonceverypopularcruiserhangoutowingtocrimeandpolitical June 2008therewerebetween70and80cruiserboatshere;cruisershavealmost could takeweeks. check-in processrequiredyourpaperworktogoCaracasandthe and long-timefriendadvisortocruisers,notcheckinbecausethenew trade withfishermen.WewereadvisedbyJuanBaro,thelocalcheck-inagent ping tripinforlast-minutefreshfood,plussomerumandcigarettes for atrawlerlike other. Formostofthepassageswewerenotinvisualcontactbecauseitisdifficult Margarita. Inthisstretchweand been doneinthedaylightunpopulatedareabetweenLosTestigosandIsla and robsoloboatsastheyleftLosTestigosonthewaytoIslaMargarita.Thishas cover ofnight.Inthepastfewyears,pirateshavemadeanorganizedefforttostop miles). ForsecurityreasonswesailedtenmileswestofLosTestigosunderthe left UnionIslandinmid-JuneandsaileddirectlytoIslaMargarita(210nautical and Ion prepared tobeself-sufficientforthedurationofyourtripinoffshoreislands. south oftherhumblinebetweenUnionIsland,inGrenadines,andBonaire.Be you andyourcrew.WereallywantedtoexploreIslaTortuga,soourroutetookus on currentsecurityconcernsthroughyourchosenroute. issues relatedtoBlanquilla,LosRoquesandLasAves.Iurgeyoudoresearch Los Testigos.Inthepastfewyears,however,therehavebeenverysecurity Peninsula (whichdoesinvolvethesepassages),aswellatIslaMargaritaandoff increase inpiracycoastalVenezuela,especiallyoffthenorthsideofParia Los RoquesandLasAves. From there,youcaneithergodirectlytoBonaire(223nauticalmiles)orstopin tiful islandandworthyofexploration.YoumaygetcheckedbytheGuardacostas. passage fromGrenada(170nauticalmiles)orwaitforbetterweather.Itisabeau- which isamilitaryinstallationwherevisitorsarenotwelcome. Grenada directlytoBonaire,yourrhumblinemighttakeyounearIslaOrchilla, between GrenadaandBonaireis390nauticalmiles.Ifyouaresailingfrom ly fromsomepointintheLesserAntillestoBonaire.Forexampledistance also wantedtospendthehurricaneseasoninBonaireandCuraçao. in theoffshoreislandsarereportedtobemuchmorecomfortablesummer.We the tripwestduringsummerbecausewindsarelighterandanchorages from theEasternCaribbeantoBonaire.Myhusband,Hunter,andIchosemake Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL Isla Tortugaisalowdryislandthathasbeautifulbeachesandgoodsnorkeling. The distancebetweenPorlamarandPlayaCaldera(thewesternendofIsla We wereshockedtoseefewerthanadozenboatsinthePorlamaranchorage.In We spenttwonightsinMargaritawhereweusedataxitogetquickshop- Along withourfriendsChuckandBarbaraShipleyaboard I willtellyouaboutourrouteandexperiencescanchoosewhatsuits Safety andsecurityisanimportantconsiderationsincetherehasbeen To breakupthetripyoucanstopatBlanquillaforafewdaystorestfrom There areseveralwaysyoucanapproachthetripwest.Youjustsaildirect- T HE Arctic Tern

Tusen TakkII ArcticTern ers themonth-longtripaboardourIslandPacket45, see” listforafewyearsand2010wasouryear.Thisarticlecov- Venezuelan offshoreislandsandBonairehadbeenonour“must checkedoutofSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesforBonaire,and

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 and andasailboattomatchspeedscourses. Tusen TakkII POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters stayedinvisualcontactwitheach Tusen TakkII Arctic Tern , Hunter , ing atraditionalVenezuelanholidayandfeltverysafeamongthefamilies. folks ruiningourvisittotheirisland,orjustenjoytheevent.Weenjoyedwitness- air andskimpyswimsuitsfilledtheview.Wecouldbeannoyedbyafewhundred beach withabowanchor.Itwasbigparty;barbecueodorsandmusicfilledthe crammed intotheanchorage.MostofVenezuelanboatsweretiedsternto about sixnon-fishingboatsatanchorandbyThursdaynighttherewere125 opportunity ofalongweekendtocomethe“Isla”.OnTuesdaytherewere Venezuela’s nationalhero,SimonBolivar,andmanyVenezuelanfamiliestookthe the littleislands,burningourburnabletrashanddoingboatchores. for somecaulktheygaveusfish.Wespentourdayssnorkeling,exploring ecosystem ofecologicalvaluemadeupcoralreefs,mangroves,andseagrassbeds. must leave.Keepaneyeontheweatherandstayflexibleinyourplans. or Guardacostaspayyouavisittheywillgivefromonetothreedaysbefore were notvisitedbytheGuardacostasduringoureight-daystay.IfParkRangers such asPuertoCabello.WeexploredthewesternendofRoquesarchipelagoand to eitherreturnMargaritaorgooneofthecoastaltownsmainlandVenezuela, be checkedintoVenezuela.Onceyouarein,theonlywaytocheckoutis get apermitfromtheNationalParkoffice,andinordertoyouneed shelter ofthecay. with themorningsunbehindus,whichhelpedusseereefasweentered the fullmoonwithSouthernCrossforcompany.WearrivedatCayodeAgua side ofLosRoques(110nauticalmiles).Wesaileddownwindwing-and-wingunder kind of the catchistakentoCuraçaoforsale.Thefishermencamebyaskingsome refrigeration andultimatelytakentomainlandVenezuela.InLosRoquesAves shacks onshoreandusetenderstofish.Thecatchisstoredalargerboatwith protected caywithanicebeachandfishingcampsonshore.Thefishermenlivein We spentaweekatanchorinCayoHerradura(HorseshoeCay),whichiswell- Venezuelan OffshoreIslands: Our visittoIslaTortugacoincidedwiththeholidaycelebratingbirthdayof Los Roques Archipelago National Park was created in 1972 to protect a marine Los RoquesArchipelagoNationalParkwascreatedin1972toprotectamarine The problemwithvisitingLosRoquesandspendingtimethereisthatyouneedto We madeanightpassagefromCayoHerraduratodeAguaonthewestern pegamento A DownwindRuntothe and LasAves Isla Tortuga, Los Roques (glue)fortheirtenderandmaybesomecigarettes,too.Inreturn by DeviSharp —Continued onnextpage .com APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 (pickled fish). Since I was the best Spanish speaker in the group (pickled fish). Since I was the best Spanish speaker in . We learned that the best thing to do is to hail the Guardacostas on . We learned that the best thing to do is to hail the Guardacostas ceviche After three days a fishing boat approached us and one of the guys in the boat said us and one of the guys in a fishing boat approached After three days we were all eager to get to We were 30 days out from Chatham Bay and suddenly and I talked about pizza and As we sailed the 33 nautical miles to Bonaire, Hunter Next month I’ll tell you about our experiences in Bonaire and Curaçao and the pas- Guardacostas has a station on Isla Larga, but at that time they lacked a boat ade- Guardacostas has a station on Isla Larga, but at that Sotovento, so they ask you to quate to reach the more remote parts of the Aves de to “check you”. We promised anchor in front of their station and they will come out station while they mobilized to move the next day and we anchored in front of their the boat launch, but they a small boat with seven men. They were a bit wet from and polite about the were all wearing uniform polo shirts and were very professional and exit papers from our last safety inspection. They asked to see our boat papers kit. We offered them a drink port of call as well as life jackets, flares and the first aid and then inquired about of juice and they declined until all business was completed items they might need and that drink we offered them. We asked what kind of food and he replied that it was the cook replied that they could use vinegar. I was curious for making was protected by a reef with inner concentric rings of reef and the coral was in good rings of reef and the coral by a reef with inner concentric was protected non-native anda pair of lionfish, which are note we did see shape. On a distressing de Sotovento. sail to the Aves six days we made the 15-nautical-mile invasive. After checking in. The admonished us for not for the Guardacostas and that he worked their safety inspection of I hopped in their boat so I could translate for them during Tusen Takk II a visit in front of their sta- VHF 16 and let them know you are planning to pay them but I have been told they are tion. You might find someone who speaks English, a common language. pretty good at getting through the whole process without was not really that fresh and Bonaire. We still had some fresh food — okay, the food week or so without eating there was not much of it, but we could have gone another our g-mail inbox was full exclusively out of cans, jars and dried food. We also knew to get weather and keep in of messages. Using our satellite phones we were able touch with our families. in with Customs and scuba diving. We arrived late in the afternoon and checked After dumping 27 days’ Immigration, which are co-located at the Customs office. worth of non-burnable trash we found our pizza and settled into our new home for another six weeks. sage back to the Eastern Caribbean. - Marigot – 97150 - Saint Martin – F.W.I Arctic Tern Islas de las Aves (Bird There is a good rea- remains. The exhibit remains. The exhibit was in Spanish and English and very inter- esting. After ten days we decided to move west to Las Aves. Islands) comprises two separate archipelagos: Aves de Barlovento (windward) and to the west, Aves de Sotovento (leeward). The passage from the western Roques to Las Aves de Barlovento is 30 nautical miles — a nice daysail. son they are called the bird islands. We were mobbed by boobies and frigate birds as we approached Isla Sur. A young brown booby chased and caught our Right: Happy fisherman after trade In the center of Marigot, In the center of Marigot, spaces and 48 buoys 90 dock Hurricane protected Saint Martin customs clearances the best restaurants surrounded by and shops in town at marina office • • • • Left: Hunter harvesting coconuts Left: Hunter harvesting coconuts on Cayo de Agua of Below: Boobies on the bow from their ground nests. We walked to the nests. We walked to the from their ground was not operating dur- lighthouse, which is very picturesque. The ing our visit but are red-and- lighthouses in Los Roques of fiberglass white striped, constructed assembled and are built in sections and very good and on site. The snorkeling was One day was part of our daily routine. and we Barb and I were out snorkeling seemed huge saw rainbow parrotfish that each took off a — as large as our fins. We the fish and fin and slowly swam up to Nearby Coral indeed they were fin-sized! poking out Island, just a small bit of rock of flamingos of the water, provided a flock MARINA PORT LA ROYALE Tel : + 590 590 872 043 • Fax: + 590 590 875 595 • [email protected] • www.marina-port-la-royale.com • VHF: 16/12 Tel : + 590 590 872 043 • Fax: + 590 590 875 595 • [email protected] Continued from previous page Continued from We spent a few days at Isla Carenero, which is popular with yachts from the main- We spent a few days at Isla Carenero, which is popular Commercial fishing is allowed in Las Aves and there were many fishing boats and Cayo de Agua was an important place for Amerindians (1300-1500 AD) and fisher- Amerindians (1300-1500 was an important place for Cayo de Agua It is not legal to use a speargun, collect conch, or fish with rod and reel, but you can or fish with rod and reel, use a speargun, collect conch, It is not legal to land. It was a bit buggy and crowded for our taste so we moved onto Dos Mosquises land. It was a bit buggy and crowded for our taste so white beaches. Amerindians which are two lovely islands with a bit of high ground and these islands where they sub- came from the mainland of Venezuela and settled on to Cayo de Agua for their fresh sisted on fish, conch, lobster and turtles and travelled and an exhibit of archeological water. The southernmost island has a turtle hatchery fishing camps ashore. We had several offers to trade for fish and lobster; the most requested item was cigarettes. My best trade was a pack of cigarettes for four lobsters. Chuck grilled the lobsters and we had a four-star dinner in the Aves. Our anchorage with foraging habitat and we were able to take a short dinghy trip and get great views with foraging habitat and we were able to take a short Cayo de Agua provided us with and photos of the flamingos. The lone coconut tree on a few fresh coconuts. a net and drape a towel overfishing lure and we had to bring the booby aboard with Note to self: haul in your linesits head to remove the fishing hook lodged in its wing. to nesting red-footed andwhen you see birds following your boat. Isla Sur is home gulls and magnificentbrown boobies, brown pelicans, a variety of terns, laughing frigate birds. It is a noisy place day and night. men because of the fresh water they could find or access by digging holes in the find or access by digging of the fresh water they could men because chased us away nesting bridled terns that explored the cay we dodged ground. As we use a handline. We saw several Venezuelan pleasure boats hauling aboard loads of pleasure boats hauling We saw several Venezuelan use a handline. rods.fish with fishing — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Part One: marina andlotsofwaterwaspumpedintothelockersincockpit. During theefforttoputoutfire,awaterpumpwasborrowedfromlocal smoke, sowaterandfireextinguisherswerebeingemptiedeverywhereintotheboat. It wasveryhardtodeterminewheretheactualfirebecauseofthickblack and blacksmokebillowedout.SamethingwhenIopenedthehatchoverV-berth. armed withfireextinguishersandbuckets.Iopenedthebutterflyhatchamidships way. ShortlyafterIgotaboardseveralmenfromlocalfishingvesselscame area. BythetimeIarrivedatboat,flameswereshootingoutofcompanion- However, asIneared the smokewascomingfromexhaustofoneseverallargerlocalvesselsnearby. the dinghyandlookedtowards before thevariousColombianagenciesIwoulddealwith. me thathechargesamonthlyfeeof150,000pesos(US$75)tobemyrepresentative vices, whichIwashardpressedtounderstand,ashedidnothing.Healsoinformed there wasachargeof200,000pesos(US$100)fromthemarineagentforhisser- work. TherewerenofeesfromImmigration(DAS)orthePortCaptain’sofficebut at atableonthebeachunderanumbrella,sippingbeer,anddidallofpaper- offices), anImmigrationagent,andthePortCaptain’sofficerepresentative.Wesat (required bythePortCaptain’sofficetorepresentmebeforeColombiangovernment they couldallowmetostay.Itookthedinghyashoreandmetwithamarineagent entry intoColombiaandprovidedetailsofthemechanicalconditionboatso VHF totellmebeonthebeachwithpassportandboatpapersdoanofficial more than24hours. about mysituationsoIcoulddothepaperworkrequiredtoremaininRodaderofor He advisedmethathewouldcontactthePortCaptain’sofficeandletthemknow informed thecaptainthatIhadmechanicalproblemsandneededtostayforrepairs. a fewdays,CoastGuardvesselcamebytosaythatIhad24hoursdepart. area forColombians. Bay, IanchoredinRodaderoBay(11°12.27N74°13.70W),apopularrecreation that becamemorepronounced.AfterbriefstopsatCabodeVelaandGuayraca bound forColombia.Duringthepassage,enginedevelopedaslightvibration

(Mis)Adventures inColombia Rodney Bay,St.Lucia It tookacoupleofhourstofullyextinguishthefiresatisfactionfiremen All oftheentrancepaperworkwascompletedataround1700hours.Ireturnedto The nextday,whichhappenedtobeChristmas,thePortCaptain’sofficecalledon Although afreeguidetoColombiastatesthatitisokayanchorinRodaderofor Aboard my1985Tayana37, FIRE ABOARD

Coqui Isawgreateramountsofsmokecomingfromthecockpit

Coqui by LuisBlondet S/V Coqui andsawsomedarksmoke.AtfirstIthought

, Tel: (758)4520299 I leftArubaonDecember18th,2009,

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Fax:(758)4520311 Eventually, itwasdeterminedthatthefirehadstartedinwetlocker. cockpit lockerandinthewetforwardofitwasfullyconsumedbyflames. charred blackfromthecompanionwaytoV-berth.Everythinginstarboard phone, camera,GPS,logbook,etcetera)wasdamagedbeyondrepair.Theceiling covering everysurfacebelowdecks.Everythingonthenavigationtable(laptop,cell and alargebucketstillfullofsand.Therewassmoke,waterextinguisherresidue who hadcomeaboard.AfterwardsIcounted15largefireextinguishersstrewnabout —Continuedonpage45 the damage,duringfirstweekofJanuary. instructions, whichtookaboutfourhourstocomplete.Isentitin,withpicturesof I neededtogetthingssettledwiththeboat. Inspector toldhehadmadearrangementsformetostayathishouseaslong Rodadero andtherewasnotaroomtobefoundatanyprice,anywhere.The Captain’s staffifhecouldhelpmefindaplacetostay.Thiswashighseasonin I contactedmyinsuranceagencyadayorsolater.Theysentmeclaimformwith After theboatwassecuredfornight,IaskedanInspectorfromPort A firestartedbelowwhilethesingle-handedskipperwasashoreclearingin Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24

ing atitsbest! to reallife—butonaboatintheCaribbean,they’llenjoyintriguing,real-lifelearn- have goneunnoticed.Schoolchildrenoftencomplainthattheirlessonsaren’trelated here toactivelyexplore,observe,andcriticallyexaminedetailsthatmightotherwise isolate yourchildrenfromtheirsurroundings.Useactivitiesliketheonesdescribed Leave theDVDsandGameBoysathome,orleastinbunk;thesewillonly should conscientiouslycultivateanapproachthatwilltunethemintotheCaribbean. come awayfromtheexperiencewithnewknowledgeoraperspective,thenyou lector’s items.” local historycanberevealed.Kidsmake arubbingortakepictureofsuch“col- vintage ER special models.TheCommonwealthcountries usuallyhaveredboxeswithafancy boxes. Whilemodern,utilitarianmailboxes abound,youcanalsofindanumberof country bycountry. rate ajournalortocreatepostage-stamp mapoftheCaribbean,islandbyisland, Children mightalsoenjoystartingastampcollection:stampscanbeusedtodeco- If youhadtodoamassmailing,whichpostalsystemwouldusesavemoney? to sendapostcardhomefromSt.VincentandhowdoesthiscompareMartinique? ples, suchaspostageandstamps,anotherpromisingtopic.Howmuchdoesitcost children canworkwithcoinsandpartsofonehundred.Thenturntoreal-lifeexam- You canalsoconvertECdollarstoEuros,EurosUSdollars,andsoon.Young EC$2.70 equalsUS$1,howmuchmakesUS$10?HowmanyUSdollarsisEC$100? the choiceofdecorationrevealaboutculturalvalues? themes onthelocalcurrencycomparewiththosefromyourhomecountry?Whatdoes research thepeople:WhowasSirArthurLewis?WhyBritishQueen?Howdo the again pulloutthemapandlocatefeaturedsites—areanycloseenoughtovisit?Then and nutmegonECbills.Thisstudycanleadinseveraldifferentdirections.You can Elizabeth, NobelPrize-winnerSirArthurLewis,BrimstoneHillFortress,seaturtles, sights, valuedculturaliconsandsymbols.Amongotherimages,youwillfindQueen Currency canrevealalotofinformation:importantpeople(contemporaryorhistoric), Euro onFrenchislands.Itcanbefuntostudymoneyindetail,bothcoinsandbills. you willcomeacrossthecolorfulECdollaronEnglish-speakingislandsaswell the Guadeloupe consistof?Trycookingoneup! ronmental costsofshippingmilktoAntigua?Whatdoesalocallyproducedmealon importance ofbuyinglocally—anotherthemeyoucantieinto.Whataretheenvi- might notbeonoffereverywhere.Environmentallyconscioussailorsunderstandthe island communitiesandhavethemappreciatewhytheirfavoritebrandofchips plishes severalthings:itwillopenchildren’seyestotherealitiesofcommerceon where hisorherproductscomefromandhowdeliverieswork.Thisexerciseaccom- ucts thanthesupermarket?Don’tbeshy:asksmallshopownerquestionsabout Compare resultsbetweenthetwostores:doescornerstoreoffermorelocalprod- ally useandresearchwhereeachcomesfrom:bread,toothpaste,fruit,etcetera. supermarket andonesmallcornershop.Comesuppliedwithalistofitemsyouusu- taking notice. cal thinkers,questioningandresearchingtheworldaroundtheminsteadofbarely topic, butevenchildrencanbegintoexploreit.Indoingso,theywillbecomecriti- are localspecialties?Ofcourse,youcouldfocusanentirecollegecourseonthis How dependentareislandersonoutsidegoods?Whatislocallyproduced? for that.Howdogoodsreachstoreshelves?Whydoesthatmakethepricegoup? complain aboutthehighpriceofgoodsinCaribbean,butthereisagoodreason This willillustratethepointwell.Second,discussimplications.Somecruisers into ageographylesson.Pulloutmapand“chart”yourbreakfast,sotospeak! European town. is muchcheaper—justtheoppositeofsituationinaNorthAmericanor item: whilerefinedsugarisoftenavailableatexorbitantprices,naturalbrown of beingtheCaribbean’s“local”producertoiletpaper!Sugarisanotherinteresting regional producerofbakingflour.Trinidad,ontheotherhand,hasdistinction Florida! YoghurtinSt.VincentcamefromMartinique;Grenadaseemstobethe example, thatmilkinoneofAntigua’slargesupermarketswasimportedfrom come from?Andwhataretheimplicationsofoff-islandtrade? example, doesnotproduceeveryitemonthestoreshelves!Sowheredosupplies with itsscatteredislandsandproudbuttinynations?SurelylittleCanouan,for tryside, andthemilkistruckedovertomytown,right?ButwhataboutCaribbean, America givelittlethoughttosuchthings:thecowsareoutsomewhereincoun- or thesyrup?Justthinkaboutitforamoment.ThoseofushailingfromNorth Caribbean in tothe Cruising KidsTuned Keeping waterfalls ture byvisiting‘secret’ Turn ahikeintoanadven- Another interestingactivityisacomparative treasurehuntofmailboxes.Yes,mail Currency alsolendsitselfwelltomathematicalexercisesforconversionrates. If This leadssmoothlytoanotherinterestingtheme:money.IntheEasternCaribbean, Next step:takeafieldtriptoanislandsupermarket.Betteryet,two:onelarge There areseveralthingsyoucandowiththisinformation.Thefirstistoturnit Read grocerylabelstoestablishtheoriginofeachitem.Iwassurprisedfind,for You canstartoverbreakfast.Wheredidthemilkcomefrom?Whataboutcereal WE imprintedonthem( GR boxesfromthetimeofherfather,King GeorgeVI.Inthisway,cluesto by NadineSlavinski

Elizabeth Regina peers willeverenjoy.However,ifyouwantyourchildrento Doing sogivesyourkidsanadventurethatfewoftheir world andtoenjoyawonderfullifestyleinstepwithnature. take ourchildrencruisingtoshowthemanewpartofthe orQueenElizabeth),andafewevenhave —Continued onnextpage APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

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L A O E

B O M B H I A CCHOOL R R S AARIBBEAN S G C H O C RROGRAM G E IIGH P HHE P H H P T T T E S NN RREP I E I P P N D IINEST E E F G F N E SS E '' L PPENED D L L O OOLLEGE O R C OORLD C W D OOW [email protected] W N W Graduates receive a US DIPLOMA N AAND E N S HHE AAS TT HH www.AdventureHighSchool.org www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone: (800) 927-9503 www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone: • Full High School Grades 9,10,11 & 12 • Full High School Grades Prep • University and College Programs so that faster students are not held • Individualized Student not left behind back while students that need more attention are • Individual and group tutoring Cruisers, • Special Guided Education Programs for Boat Owners, Limited Access Travelers, or Anyone Doing Home Schooling With to Educational Guidance and Materials. one month booster • Full four year programs, single year programs, as needed. or tutoring programs. Individual tailored programs is possible. Due to personalized programs, midterm enrollment Summer catch up or advancement programs available. , or write a fictional story set Last but not least, get out and Caribbean. May I ask you a few questions?” You will find people pleased to be asked, and more than willing to devote their take the time to carefully observe take the time to carefully observe shapes, contours, and the inter- play of color. You can use cray- ons, pencils, watercolors — any- thing. Your perspective might be way off, or the outcome more abstract than intended, but the important thing is the process, not the product. Be a good role model and make your own art- work. The peace and reflection that art carries with it will bring you a little step closer to your subject matter. And who knows — you might just end up with a beautiful keepsake. talk to local people. Share beach toys with local children and start up a friendly exchange. We had many fascinating and eye-open- ing conversations with friendly people throughout the Caribbean. Travelling with a child and as a child opens doors. Many local people are more than happy to talk about life in their corner of the Caribbean with a curious, friendly, and genuinely interest- ed visitor. Older children inter- ested in a particular topic can even set up an interview. All you have to do is ask! “I am doing a project on groceries in the . Visit her website, www.sailkidsed.net, for Lesson Plans Ahoy! Hands-On Learning for Sailing A Kid’s Guide to St. Lucia Continued from previous page Continued from Nadine Slavinski is the author of These suggested activities are all mini-adventures, not chores. Get out and get To preserve all these experiences, have your child keep a journal. Just a few sen- Children can simply eavesdrop on their parents’ conversations, or prepare a few Vendors can be excellent conversationalists, as long as you find them at a quiet Vendors can be excellent conversationalists, as long At some point, take the time for an art project. Just sit down in front of a lovely for an art project. Just sit down in front of a lovely At some point, take the time Let’s face it: long hikes are rarely inspiring for children. However, you can turn rarely inspiring for children. However, you can turn Let’s face it: long hikes are One good place for an excursion into a nature preserve is the Indian River in into a nature preserve is the Indian River One good place for an excursion On a completely different note, make sure to expose your children to the spectacu- to expose your children to different note, make sure On a completely Snorkel with a specific objective in mind: study stingrays or turtles close; open yourself to the unfamiliar and the unexpected. Any of these activities could be the subject of a more extensive study; adapt the tips provided to your child’s developmental level and your family’s commitment to on-board education, be it casual or more formal. Leading your children through inquiries like the ones described here can also foster a sense of family accomplishment that lingers long after your time in the Caribbean comes to a bittersweet end. in the Caribbean, filling the background with details they have observed and char- acters they have met. Children and Home Schooling Sailors many more educational things to do aboard. tences written on a regular basis will do. This helps children review and reflect on the day. Without a journal, your child will collect a string of pleasant but vague memories. With a journal, the chances of putting together pieces of an interlocking puzzle with sharper focus increase. Your children will come away with new knowl- edge, new questions, and new perspectives on their lives back home. You might even encourage your children to see themselves as travel writers reporting on the Caribbean; they can produce questions and start with someone in the tourism industry. Service providers such as “boat boys” are often happy to relate their personal stories: how they got started, how they worked their way up from surfboard to outboard, what they do in the off-sea- son, etcetera. Older people will proudly relate their memories of the day their home island went from colony to independence, another promising topic for discussion. Whatever you do, don’t isolate your children from the local population, especially when a singular opportunity presents itself. moment. A talkative female vendor, if you find one, can be a goldmine of information! moment. A talkative female vendor, if you find one, can small but successful enter- We found such women to be justifiably proud of their prises and full of mesmerizing stories. Who knows what turns your conversations may take? Children can collect information about sports, hobbies, or school life on their host island. They are likely to uncover a number of differences from their home systems, but also many similarities (recess, for starters, is bound to be a universal favorite). attention to your inquiries. view (take your pick – there’s no shortage!) or concentrate on one small object, like no shortage!) or concentrate on one small object, view (take your pick – there’s to The idea is not to create a masterpiece but rather a shell or a flower, and draw. a hike into an adventure by having a clear goal: reaching a “secret” waterfall or or by having a clear goal: reaching a “secret” waterfall a hike into an adventure The same idea can be applied to the underwater world. mysterious rock carvings. randomly: snorkel with a specific purpose. For exam- Don’t just jump in and look stingrays along a sandy bottom. Which way do their ple, study the movement of a and when they settle on the bottom? If you spot “wings” move when they swim is from a distance. Where is it looking for food? What turtle, study its movements but turn your child into the next Jacques Cousteau, it eating? Doing so may not her all the more firmly into his or it will cement the experience young mind. Dominica, where a trained guide will point out hard-to-spot animals and interesting guide will point out hard-to-spot animals and interesting Dominica, where a trained along the way. Make sure you tell your guide what vegetation, answering questions eyes and local knowledge will complement your chil- you are after so that his keen River is a wonderful destination because it feels adven- dren’s research. The Indian can participate. turous and even young children lar natural beauty of the Caribbean. Don’t limit yourself to the coast and beaches: limit yourself to the coast of the Caribbean. Don’t lar natural beauty the islands of the many stunning waterfalls botanical garden, or one visit a rainforest, specific “tar- what you see, and assign notebook and camera to record boast. Bring a you see? How big What types of bird can child to observe and describe. gets” for each (foraging, resting, was the animal doing Are they camouflaged? What are the lizards? within a flower? patterns can you find exactly do vines cling? What moving)? How rich details they focus and remember observations helps children Making specific at the general view. have missed if simply looking would otherwise — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 in thearea.Barnaclesarepositivelycharismaticcomparedto,say, the enormouseconomicimplicationsforworldshipping,thereisstillalotofresearch Charles Darwinwroteoneofthedefinitivepapersaboutbarnacles,butbecause other researchersaretryingtodesigntexturedbarnacle-repellingbottomsforships. sign. Barnaclesdogowherebarnacleshavebeen,becausetheylikethesurface,so chemical, medetomidine,thatturnsthesettlementreceptorsintoa‘don’tsettlehere’ pheromone, anditappearsthatcurrentbarnacle-bustinghopesarepinnedtoa reproduce itself,butusuallythemalestagecomesfirst. pseudo-penis thateveryhermaphroditicbarnaclepossesses.Yes,onecan mone’, whichattractsotherbarnaclesintotherangeof‘highlyextensible’ released toformfree-swimminglarvae.Andthere’sthedread‘settlementphero- hatching pheromonetriggeredbyalgalblooms,whichcausesdormanteggstobe Intrigued bythethoughtIlookeditup,andofcourseit’ssorttrue.There’sa places wherebarnacleshadalreadybeen.Thesirenscentofbarnaclebalm? off thebarnacles.Thescrewdriverisforthrough-hulls. to makeaslackcatenaryandrubhandfulsofchainlinkswiththemselvesknock chain, don’tpokeateverylinkoryou’llbethereforhours.Rather,usethesnubber or afterthreefourtimestherewillbenobottompaintleft.Tocleantheanchor Use ascraper(Albertousesaneight-inchdrywallblade,justaswedo),notbrush, their teethintothebottompaint;thentheytakepaintwiththemwhengo. toms everythreeweeks.Longerthanthat,hesays,andthebiggestbarnaclesget driver, noscubatank.Anhourorsolater,thebottomwascleanagain. to theboatinanchoragewithmask,fins,snorkel,twoscrapers,andascrew- deal withtheissue.Youwantyourbottomcleaned?Albertoisman.Hecameout haven’t succeededatprevention. can’t imagine.Careeninganddivingarelimitedoptionsevenrocketscientists move theboat.HowshipsofyoreevermanagedtokeepupwithproblemI that wasn’tworkinganymore(ifiteverhad),aswefoundwhenhadtoactually sucking noisesthroughthesink.Wehadcoatedpropandshaftwithlanolin,but beach. Drainagethroughthegalleysinkslowed,andmarinetoiletbeganmaking striking thesidebegantomakeasleety,sizzlysound,likesurfdepartingrocky get alarmed.Asthebarnaclesgrewwecouldactuallyhearchanges.Wavelets things begantohappen,butwereeasydismiss.Inthefourthweekwe 47 days;camewithafreshcleanbottompaintedinNovember,andnowlook. larvae andbarnaclefood(zooplanktonalgae).It’sFebruary.We’vebeenherefor (generally) intheoily,trashysense,butbeinga‘hot’primordialbrothofbarnacle fossilized, extincttropicalsponge.MaybeI’vemissedmycalling(again). barnacle-bound However, wherethere’sapheromone,thepotentialfortargetedanti- Over drinksathappyhour,someonecommentedthatbarnacleswereattractedto Long-term residentsoftheClubNaúticoandanchoragehaveAlbertodotheirbot- The mini-economyattheClubNaúticoofCartagenaprovidedalocalspecialistto In thefirsttwoweekswewonderedwhatfusswasabout.thirdweek A dirtylittlesecretofCartagenaisthefoulnesswaterinharbor:not Barnacles arecrustaceans,relatedtocrabsandlobster,notmollusks.Theyattach in cartagena by AnnWestergard Archaeocyatha THIS CRUISINGLIFE , a arguing withabarnacle. their anchorchaineverythreedays.It’sanuisancetobesure,butit’sbetterthan “make thatbottomclean”.I’vejustmetfolksonanotherboatwhopullupandscrub with athree-corneredpaintscraperandsheetofsandpaper.Myorderswereto ghy andIspentamiserablewinterweekendtogetheratthetopendofboatshed, metals theycanabsorb. harbor water;barnaclescanserveasbiomarkersbecauseoftheamountstoxic Had wecaredtomeasure,couldhaveanalyzedmorestringentlythenatureof lives, whichcanbethreetofiveyears.Theygatherpassingnutrientswiththeirfeet. with theirantenna,usinga‘cementgland’andstayput(sessile)fortherestof website ishttp://www.fathom.com/feature/121900/index.html. consulted inthisgrossoversimplificationofthelifebarnacles.Anotherinteresting the waterlineandbottomwereencrustedwithbarnacles Only threemonthsafterahaul-out,andsomefourweeksinCartagena,Colombia, Had enoughofbarnacles?Metoo!Infact,whenIwasmaybeten,asmallreddin- Wikipedia, andthe Environmental PhysiologyofAnimals byWilmerandStonewere APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 th f H B F t d e road turn left and you will find yourself e path. This is quite steep, but generally k of English and Falmouth Harbours. You can back down to Freeman Bay. However, for the db ib th ll f th d A Family of Generators with Relatives throughout the Caribbean bd i d ft i Carpenter Rock Trail and Trail Rock Carpenter it ld This famous view of English and Falmouth Harbours is the reward for hiking This famous view of English and Falmouth Harbours is to Antigua’s Shirley Heights Shirley Heights Trail, Antigua Trail, Heights Shirley SAILORS’ HIKES BY CHRIS DOYLE HIKES BY CHRIS SAILORS’ Reliability.Reliability. Durability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com C001

reat hiking trails have been well blazed around have been well blazed reat hiking trails Antigua. Falmouth Harbours in English and be com- and Shirley Heights can Carpenter Rock Marine Maintenance Svcs: 284-494-3494 Parts & Power: 284-494-2830

Antigua: Marine Power Svcs: 268-460-1850 Svcs: Seagull Yacht 268-460-3049 Bequia: Caribbean Diesel: 784-457-3114 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center: 767-448-2705 Grenada: Grenada Marine: 473-443-1667 Enza Marine: 473-439-2049 Martinique: Inboard Diesel Svcs: 596-596-787-196 St. Croix: St. Croix Marine: 340-773-0289 St. John: Coral Bay Marine: 340-776-6665 St. Lucia: Martinek: 758-450-0552 St. Maarten: Electec: 599-544-2051 St. Thomas: All Points Marine: 340-775-9912 & Tobago: Trinidad Co. Ltd: Engine Tech 868-667-7158 Dockyard Electrics: 868-634-4272 Tortola: Cay Electronics: 284-494-2400 G Unless you have done it before, I strongly recommend Unless you have done it before, I strongly recommend The uphill climb from here is moderate at first, through The uphill climb from here is moderate at first, through downhill to the bottom of the Shirley Heights grounds and you will find th After you have spent a while enjoying the view, walk The path continues upwards from this platform and The path continues upwards Leave the dinghy on the Galleon Beach dock in Freeman Leave the dinghy on the Galleon The Carpenter Rock trail alone is a mile, mainly uphill. The Carpenter Rock trail alone returning via the Shirley Heights trail, though it should be returning via the Shirley Heights trail, though it should noted you have a choice. When you reach the road, anoth- the er trail starts on the other side of the road. This is of an old cistern in an often-dry riverbed, and then follows this bed Jones Valley trail, and it takes you down to the remains a grassy field of very tall milkweed plants. These survivors a grassy field of very tall milkweed plants. These survivors who have managed to grow large enough to deter goats, can be poisoned by eating enough of this plant, though they can manage small doses. The top of this slope affords a good view back down the coast. The path now turns you more uphill and becomes much steeper, carrying You towards the height of land amid rocky outcroppings. eventually reach the road. leads you high along the cliffs amid century plants and leads you high along the cliffs The path dips back down cactus, mainly Turk’s Head. can take the brief detour onto towards the shore and you Rock to examine the tide the rocky shoreline at Carpenter rock climbing and hopping in pools. There is a little bit of this section. and walk up to Shirley Heights where you will get magnificent views more dramatic Shirley Heights trail, turn left on the road also buy a drink here, to help you on your way. you have to scramble, which also gives some good views. When you get to th shady amid dry woods. There is one rocky place where back at your dinghy. Bay. Walk back to the road and turn right. Continue to Bay. Walk back to the road find a barrier with a big “no the end of the road where you and continue along the path. parking” sign on it. Pass this until, near the top, you’ll see Follow its gentle uphill rise the left which take you to an some steps leading up to to start and finish sailing observation platform used good view back over English races. From here there is a under sail you are in a Harbour and if anyone is leaving of them. position to get a perfect photo It can be achieved comfortably in an hour, which gives It can be achieved comfortably exploring the rocky shore. time for taking pictures and bined as a pleasant one-and-a-half hour hike with spec- one-and-a-half hour bined as a pleasant easy walking, The trail is for most part tacular views. to rock hop and are places where you have though there rate it “easy to moderate”. scramble, which makes me APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 FromAttempt TransatlanticRecord Granary Loafer to Caribbean Charter Cat to CaribbeanCharter The Storyof by SeanFuller —Continuedonnextpage only possibletoflyitduringtheday. boat tendedtocollapsethespinnaker,whichwasriggedbetweenhulls.It the windsgotstronger.Theysailedunderspinnakerbutfoundthatspeedof the oncominghurricaneseason.Theboatperformedwellastheyheadedsouthand visioning. TheywerefinallyreadytostartinearlyMay.Timewaslimitedowing Tenerife wheretheyarrivedafterafewdays. done inMadeiraandthereforenotallrepairswereprofessionally. that therudderstocksneededreplacingwithsolidstainless,butthiscouldnotbe tem andthesails,leakinghatchestorepairwhileinMadeira.Asurveyshowed them intoport. rudder suddenlysnappedoff.APortugueseharbourpilotwashailedoverandtowed start, butitwasimpossibletomotorintoport.Shortlyafterwardsthestarboard engines, mountedonthetransoms,hadbeenrepeatedlyimmersed.Onlyonewould entrance toFunchal,MadeirathewindwasblowingForce10.Theoutboard ally increased.ByDayThreethewindspeedhadreached60knots.Approaching miles. TheyheadedwestalongtheEnglishChannelinstrongwinds,whichgradu- and Eve. the yachtfromUKtoMadeira,withsuitablecrewandalsohischildren,Jimmy come. RogerwastakenupwithothermatterssoitdecidedthatColinwouldsail fallen outwithhusbandColinanddecidedtoleave—aforetasteofproblems Unfortunately Rosie,whohadbeenthedrivingforcebehindenterprise, extra expenseavitalpartofthestructurewasoverlooked. to bereinforcedwithafoamlining. built underLloydssupervision.Thewholestructure,includingthelargehulls,had because ofthesteeplearningcurvewithcats.Theinsurersinsistedyachtbe There hadbeenaseriesofaccidentswithmultihulls,includingsomelosslife, under thedirectionofpioneercatamarandesignerandbuilderBillO’Brien. Granary Loafer were excludedfromtheWhitbreadRoundWorldRace.)Itwastobechristened racing includinganattemptatthetransatlanticrecord.(Asitturnedout,multihulls sum, undertaketofinanceitscompletion,andmakeitavailableforlong-distance Round theWorldRace. completion itwasproposedthattheboattakepartinforthcomingWhitbread ing butdesperatelyneededmore.Todateonlythehullshadbeenmoulded.On Colin werebuildinginSouthampton,England.Theyhadalreadyreceivedsomefund- charts. Fairtides! tide thefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon In Tenerife,theydidfurtherpreparationsfortheAtlanticcrossing,includingpro- Tenerife toBarbados Roger joinedtheboatinMadeira,theypreparedasbestcouldandsetsailfor As wellastheoutboardsneedingattention,therewasdamagetosteeringsys- After seatrials,theyleftonMarch6thforMadeira,adistanceofsome1,300 After muchdelaytheyachtwasfinallyreadyforlaunchinginFebruary1979. It turnedout,forreasonsthatwouldbecomeapparentlater,despiteallthe With long-distanceracinginmind,itwasdecidedthattheboatmustbeinsured. After somenegotiation,itwasagreedthatRogerwouldbuytheboatforanominal IN 0 0145 0045 0000(full) 20 2346 19 2250 18 2156 17 2104 16 2014 15 1919 14 1837 13 1733 1640 12 1557 11 1455 10 1404 9 1318 8 1234(new) 7 1151 6 1110 5 1029 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME April For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE Rosie Swaletosponsora70-footcatamaranthatsheandherhusband bakeries, wasapproachedbyintrepidyachtswomanandexplorer new. InthatyearthelateRogerFuller,ownerofGranaryInternational 1977 therewerefewlargemultihullsandtheconceptwasrelatively , asavehicleforpromotinggranarywholemealbread,andcompleted OF THEMOON APRIL &MAY2011 1714 1622 1529 1436 9 1343 8 1252 7 1203 6 1116(new) 5 1032 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME 0950 May 0909 0828 30 0747 29 0705 28 0620 27 0522 26 0440 25 0344 24 0245 23 22 21 1 1046 0957 0912 31 0826 30 0747 29 0706 28 0625 27 0543 26 0459 25 0412 24 0321 23 0226 22 0127 21 0046 20 0000(full) 19 2326 18 2227 17 2131 16 2037 15 1946 14 1856 13 1805 12 11 10 APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 enjoyed life Granary Loafer was once again in good order and she was put is now? Loafer Loafer . The figure of a man leaning against the letter L was painted on . The figure of a man leaning against the letter L was Loafer It was thought to be a good proposition so it was agreed to make certain additions It was thought to be a good proposition so it was agreed and the boat’s name was Alston built up a clientele from cruise ships, etcetera, was required on repairs As well as replacing various missing fittings, a lot of work Does anyone know where The question now was what to do with the catamaran. It was decided against tack- catamaran. It was decided now was what to do with the The question Grenada with The Cameron, who had worked Fuller had a call from Bruce In 1981, Roger as a day-charter cat in St. George’s, Grenada Originally intended as an ocean racer, the former to a large extent the problem of the outboards getting swamped in a sea. getting swamped in the problem of the outboards to a large extent necessary for day chartering, such as fitting an awning to cover the boat and install- necessary for day chartering, such as fitting an awning to St. George’s, Grenada. ing seating along the deck sides. The boat was delivered shortened to other side of the boat. After one hull, and that of a woman in the same pose on the from Grenada to Bequia four years of day chartering, in 1985 the yacht was taken her. For many years she was by local skipper Garnet Williams, who looked after based in Admiralty Bay, Bequia. to the deck. After a year or so, up for sale. Eventually she was sold to a realtor in Antigua. ling the transatlantic record and chartering or day chartering had to be considered. or day chartering had record and chartering ling the transatlantic in Grenada for interest in using the yacht company. He expressed Moorings charter name of Alston skipper he knew by the It would be operated by a local day charters. be a joint ven- the charters. It would he felt was capable of arranging de Roche, who profits being split. ture with the , being Loafer into the lagoon at St. Maarten and decided to beach Granary Loafer was doing 20 knots when Colin’s daughter Eve, ten years old at the time, Eve, ten years old at knots when Colin’s daughter was doing 20 Continued from previous page Continued from The owner decided to take a leaf out of the Spronk design on the siting of the out- The owner decided to take a leaf out of the Spronk design The shipwright they employed in St. Maarten proved to be a great asset. Since the The shipwright they employed in St. Maarten proved to Peter Spronk was consulted about rebuilding the rudders but would not undertake Peter Spronk was consulted about rebuilding the rudders St. Maarten The crew sailed After a week in Barbados, they decided to head for St. Maarten as it was important toAfter a week in Barbados, they decided to head for St. Maarten The only problem was a fear that if they took the Prime Minister out, the port rud- The only problem was a fear Barbados sailing, they reached Barbados. After 13 days of downwind agent for Barbados and arranged for him to collect Roger contacted his Granary Fortunately the weather gradually improved as they reached the tradewinds and improved as they reached the tradewinds and Fortunately the weather gradually Roger and Colin’s concern was that now they only had the port rudder and in they only had the port concern was that now Roger and Colin’s Approximately 1,500 miles from Tenerife with a strong northwesterly breeze, the with a strong northwesterly 1,500 miles from Tenerife Approximately boards, which were fitted on the crossbeam rather than the hulls, thus overcoming boards, which were fitted on the crossbeam rather than yacht would steer quite happily with one skeg and rudder, it was decided to reduce yacht would steer quite happily with one skeg and rudder, time, instead of just attaching the size of the skegs and rudders by half. At the same and fully reinforced inside the the skegs to the hulls, they were taken right through steering gear; the big weak- hulls. Never again would they have problems with the ness in the structure of the cat had been resolved. slim and sleek and clinker-built of wood. He did, however, help Roger and Clive to slim and sleek and clinker-built of wood. He did, however, By this time Eric Tabarly find a shipwright, but this took some months to organize. in just ten days. had beaten the transatlantic record, completing the crossing the work himself as his cats were of totally different design from the the work himself as his cats were of totally different her. The port rudder and skeg promptly fell off! find somewhere that had the facilities to reconstruct the two rudders and skegs. In thisfind somewhere that had the facilities to reconstruct the and fast cats, Peter Spronk. island there was a well-known builder of large, attractive der might finally pack up! However, the skipper decided to chance it and keep the However, the skipper decided to chance it and keep der might finally pack up! all went well. The Prime Minister took the helm speed down to 15 knots. Fortunately This resulted in some useful publicity for Granary and thoroughly enjoyed himself. in the local news media. the ten kilos of Granary flakes they had brought from England. Stowed up forward, they had brought from England. Stowed up forward, the ten kilos of Granary flakes in survived the voyage in good shape. The baker got the baking ingredients had Minister Errol Barrow, who was a keen sailor, to invite touch with his friend, Prime him for a sail. warmer weather, and the rest of the trip was relatively uneventful. warmer weather, and the rest anything of a blow, this would probably fail, too, and leave them without steerage. probably fail, too, and leave them without steerage. anything of a blow, this would a few hours later they heard from the local forecast that To add to their problems, a way. Together with one of the crew, a lawyer named tropical storm was on the situation and worked out that if they could keep an aver- Nicholson, they studied the should be able to keep ahead of the storm. The problem age speed of 15 knots they too much strain on the steering gear. was retaining this speed without Loafer on to her father. which she remarked orange wreckage drifting behind spotted some out of the to take a photo of the hull coming one of the crew decided Sometime later, on the star- there was no skeg or rudder horror, he announced that water. To his boat steered per- girl saw! Fortunately the that was what the young board hull. So that the for how long? It was ascertained one rudder working, but fectly with only bolts. only held on by three coach large skeg was — APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30

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FOCAL POINT FORCRUISING YACHTSMEN byMercedesGeentiensSykora, &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity g aricherl e boarding sessions—I expeditions andknee- of familyspearfishing and theparticularfun friendships, mishaps, weather, errands, lot aboutthecruise— of thebook. the dramatichighlight Emily inCarriacouis ing outHurricane counts. Thetaleofrid- conch andlobsterbody will approveofthe gatherer” opportunities cruising’s “hunterand those smittenwith and mealsashore, of dinnermenusaboard be whettedbyaccounts Foodies’ appetiteswill what theydidthere. the familywentand many detailsofwhere longs included)format place-by-place (latsand account. Welearnina factual log-type and thuswereceivea turned itintoabook, kept ajournaland Although welearna Along thewayshe wouldbeaperfect 69.36.67W 18.25.50N Create APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Zar-Par about Basil's Great GeneralThere is nothing general Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Ten Ten was named one of the World’s Basil’s Bar in Mustique Dominican Republic Dominican Republic Cruising Guide Haiti Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide Cayman Islands Cruising Guide www.marinazarpar.com Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Basil’s Bar Basil’s : Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. island joy. perfect for sea and as light as air... as bright as the : Fabrics WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone.

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Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. Recently renovated, the new face renovated, today lives up to that tradition. Recently Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and and more: offering fresh seafood, lobster in season, steaks andof Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that Now equipped with WIFI, you can enjoy sunset cocktails andthe best beefburger in the Caribbean. catch up on the web. Breakfast service begins at 8:00am. Lunch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 Night Jump Up anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday until late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails in the Caribbean. The Mustique Blues the only Blues Festival and BBQ. Basil’s Bar is home of 8, 2012. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHF 68. January 25 - February place from takes Festival BOUTIQUE BASIL’S to and children, plus lots of T-shirts women, men For day wear. Elegant island evening and playful home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. take STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces. with fine French Store. Bountifully stocked foods in Paradise. of books not to be missed. Fine Imported cigars and an unusual collection Call (784) 488-8407. FOREVER: ACROSS from Asia and beyond, contemporary has a magnificent collection of furniture Across Forever Shipping is easily and pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407. Visitors to Mustique are invited to: Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S welcoming and the meals are conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most some of the best on the island. Now offering full catering services. (784) 457-2713. Call BASIL’S: AT pieces from Asia and beyond, Basil’s is a collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary and more. Opening of a new coffee shop by the sea. Call (784) 456-2602 FREE CRUISING GUIDES FREE CRUISING , he basso in the for her Banjo had accom- Iolaire Banjo . The Ocean Sailing Clovers Laocoon The Cruising Guide to and anchored just outside of us. Iolaire , was stern-to the outside of the F, when ; he sold her in Bequia in the spring of Banjo Clover by William Pringle by William . His name was Arthur (soon to be Tristan) Jones, and . His name was Arthur (soon to be Tristan) Jones, and there from Ron Reil, who became skipper of Banjo was gone too, heading north, we heard. Four years later, Tristan that everyone used, and was about to publish Sea Dart cockpit had front-row seats to this sit-com off our stern, and were, CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY CARIBBEAN Banjo Richard Burton, remarkable in one of such diminutive stature. Richard Burton, remarkable in one of such diminutive which was anchored in the lagoon off the end of the dock. We were getting which was anchored in the lagoon off the end of the Clover’s for another rum. . He was The Man in Grenada at the time, lived there, and was a founding . He was The Man in Grenada at the time, lived there, Sometime later (much later), here they came, walking that thousand feet of dock Sometime later (much later), here they came, walking We in When we arrived at the Patio Bar, Don and Tristan were deep in conversation at When we arrived at the Patio Bar, Don and Tristan were One afternoon, my crew and I were frantically working on the Crocker cutter One afternoon, my crew and I were frantically working My boat, the 60-foot English cutter The boat’s name was Grenada Yacht Services was in its heyday; situated in the Lagoon, a short dinghy in its heyday; situated in the Lagoon, a short dinghy Grenada Yacht Services was Well, maybe not physical Titans, as they were (and are) only maybe five-foot-eight, as they were (and are) only maybe five-foot-eight, Well, maybe not physical Titans, Postscript: Jones didn’t get far on Don won the race by cleverly tacking inshore south of Sauteurs. And when we got And he was right. Even in the dark, with a fair load on board, as they say, and after WHEN TITANS CLASHED TITANS WHEN with unsteady legs, but not together, Jones in the lead. Every so often, he would turn with unsteady legs, but not together, Jones in the lead. around, apparently as a new thought struck him, and shout something incompre- hensible to Street, who, if he understood what was being said, gave no indication of it, merely giving him a weary one-finger salute. When Jones arrived at profundo sadly misjudged getting on board, ending up waist deep in the water off his transom with his hands on the caprail, but he pulled himself on board smartly enough. Street laughed immoderately as he passed by on the way to his dinghy, and they both gave each other more one-finger salutes, accompanied by some remarks in Welsh that were probably not complimentary. one of the small tables, and we paid them no attention, but as the row of empty one of the small tables, and we paid them no attention, Don always left a half-inch Heineken bottles grew on their table (not QUITE empty; more didactic. It became at the bottom), their voices grew louder, and their opinions mizzens! When we left impossible to ignore the fact that they were arguing about… “mumble mumble BOOMKIN”, for dinner they were almost shouting at each other; more interesting was the con- “mumble TRIATIC”, and so forth. And what made it while Tristan’s was a trast in voices, Don’s being high-pitched American, Friends (he was my insurance agent also), we waved to each other (I was at the Friends (he was my insurance agent also), we waved end of the dock, tied up, and masthead, noosing the new jib stay), as he rowed to the bowsprit out and rigged, and walked down to the Patio Bar. We finished getting the of were there ourselves in an hour or two. Don was the author the Lesser Antilles Yacht a 27-year-old American hip- member of the Grenada Yacht Club (he persuaded me, pie, to join it too). Laocoon, late November, and now only her ready for the Petit St. Vincent Race, always held in stay, Samson post, new sails, a few days away, putting up a bowsprit, bobstay, jib etcetera, when Don Street Jr. sailed in on we were to be neighbors for several months. He was quite standoffish, no invites to we were to be neighbors for several months. He was quite to do the same. Working non- come on board and have a drink, and refusing mine yachties very much, preferring stop on his boat every day, he didn’t socialize with the then lapse into Welsh, which to get hammered (which he did every night) alone, and him alone. made any communication impossible. Most people left ride to St. George’s and the market; it boasted a thousand feet of dock space, and it market; it boasted a thousand feet of dock space, and ride to St. George’s and the was crewed charter business in the Caribbean. It also was the southern hub of the heading to the Panama Canal or to Brazil and South the stopover place for cruisers was with boats tied up stern-to, and since the dock Africa, so it was usually packed down from the top of the F, it meant that those inside F-shaped, with a finger coming and their anchors were closely spaced together. had to navigate a narrow channel, was a screw lift, a ramshackle set of concrete buildings At the shore end of the dock wood shop, machine shop, radio repair shop, 200-ton that included a chandlery, Bar, which was a semi-enclosed, well-attended watering synchrolift, and the Patio punches and the local Carib beer. It was there that every- hole that served killer rum cruisers, charter captains one repaired to refresh themselves after a hot day’s work: taxi drivers — all went and crew, local workers, fishermen, government officials, metal tables, a long there. It was a fairly large area, with 20 or so white-painted to sit. mahogany bar, and a waist-high circling wall upon which on the inside, opposite to a somewhat nondescript smallish ketch anchored stern-to the backing and filling, swear- us on the dock. It was a fun half hour for us to watch we manned the dock, took ing, yelling, picking up and re-dropping of anchors, and flustered singlehander with lines, and offered unsolicited advice to the short-bearded we figured — so we retired to the arcane accent. He was grumpy — embarrassed Clover but emerging sailing literary icons at the naissance of their writing careers, already icons at the naissance of their writing careers, already but emerging sailing literary the keel, and both were (and are) — there’s only one word with plenty of miles under of and extremely talented, each chose their own style for it — belligerent. Ambitious, became hugely successful at both in succeeding years, both sailing and writing, and to this day, with dozens of books between them, and are widely read and admired and stories published. This is the story of when they and scores of magazine articles old GYS dock, circa 1972. first met, in Grenada at the new owners, and did sail her north. to put it mildly, highly amused. Don staggered the last 60 feet to his dinghy, untied the painter, and lowered himself down, still obviously in a high state of dudgeon and Heinekens. Well, you may know how it is when you get into a small boat from a dock if you’re not careful: it scoots away from you as your feet hit the thwart, leaving you dangling. This happened to Don, and all we saw (of course, we panied him down the dock to his dinghy), were his white knuckles clinging to the bitter end of the dock, the rest of his body entirely underneath it. We were laughing so hard now that we, too, almost fell in the water as he pulled himself out and settled himself at the oars. One could see that he had now added embarrassment to his turbulent whirl of emotions; after all, he was the sailing maven thereabouts, so he sought for appropriate words to shout to us as he rowed off towards dark. Shortly after he had disappeared into the gloom, we heard a crash from that direction, and the wailing words, “You call that a bowsprit? You call that a BOWSPRIT?!!” He had rowed straight into the new bobstay on 1973 and bought back to GYS, Jones published his first book. a somewhat trying evening, he was spot-on. The bobstay, bowsprit, the whole shit- ter-roo, came adrift at Kick ’Em Jenny two days later in the PSV feeder race, and we had to turn back to St. George’s. APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 winds ofromance. of yourlifecruiseonautopilotandfillsailswiththe cooperative efforts. and inviteGemini:goodthingscouldresultfromyour aspects pointtogoodoutcomes.Throwafullmoonparty return refreshed. anchorage whereyoucanrechargeyourbatteries.You’ll tion, sosetyoursailsforthataspect. stimulation onothercourses.Creativitywillfindinspira- Enjoy. will seemtomeetheadwinds. reading agoodbook. ects toaccomplishsomething,andthendivertyourselfby of yourlifeandhaveaprolificmonth. love, andhavefun. romance, sothrowallelsetothewinds,concentrateon moon party. in thesecondweek,savingsomefor18thafull for comingchallenges. usual pressures—justwhatyouneedtobuildreserves to keepyoubusyformonths. Use theseaspectsinthefirstthreeweekstogainresources “Love, Love,Love!”isyoursongthismonth.Lettherest Sail abusinesscourseduringthesecondweekas You willfeelawaningofenthusiasm.Findsecluded There mayberoughseasinmattersoftheheartbut Ah, shipboardromance!Loveandlustwillfillthetime. Concentrate onfinancialaffairs;therestofyourefforts You’ll beinironsyourlovelife,socompleteboatproj- Take advantageofsmoothsailinginthecreativeareas Aspects indicatefrustrationexceptintheareaof Channel yourenergiesintoboatbusiness,especially Calm seasandgentlebreezesareabreakfromthe Verbal skillsareathightidewithideasaplentyaboard. APRIL 2011 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

—NanHatch But makesureyoucomeearlytofindagoodspace! So comebacktoBequia,andsetyourownpace The forcethatwillmakeyoureturneveryEaster. To tugatyourheart;onlyBequiacanmuster Will casttheirownspell,butBequiawillremain The beautifulislandsinthislovelychain, Then perhapstoenjoylobsterdinnerfortwo. To discusstheday’saction,toimbibeafew, For aftereachrace,toapartyyouhurry, But still,don’tbedauntedandpleasedonotworry But Iwarnyou,considerlocalexpertise. You maythinkyouwillwinallourraceswithease, Afloat toenjoyourCaribbeanSea! For allothersailors,whoclambertobe Good racingandliming;come,setanexample Yes friend,cometoBequia,forthereyoucansample ‘All youTrinisandBajans,comeoneveryone!’ And thewhitebeachesbeckon,‘Comejoininfun, When thewindandwavesgentlyrufflesea, Bequia Regatta!Agoodplacetobe, BEQUIA REGATTA parlumps marooned FLIGHTS TO & FROMST. LUCIA

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APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2011 © 2011 OLLIVIERRE ELAINE Answers on page 39 6. T H O R S T 6. S L A H O L W 7. E S S T S Y 8. M I S T I T 9. S N E C E L E S I L T A T 10. S with all his heart…’ 1. A S E A 1. O N S T 2. E L L W 3. S E E S 4. D E P 5. H O R S E ‘He called it Browny, and he loved it and he loved ‘He called it Browny, Word Puzzle Unscramble the words and write the letters in the spaces provided. All the words Wave size is also affected by tidal currents. When ocean swells meet an ocean cur- NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) and GOOS (Global As Granny was a countrywoman, she believed in miracles, small As Granny was a countrywoman, she believed in miracles, a fine com- So that is what Jasper did. Browny turned out to be THE END In the morning when Granny woke and went into Jasper’s little In the morning when Granny that every night Jasper asked the Of course Granny didn’t know this until the morning when Jasper A whole week passed by like are taken from the text. What’s special about the answers? wind. Swells from different systems far out to sea will converge on a coastline, their wind. Swells from different systems far out to sea will converge troughs of the incoming heights depending on the extent to which the crests and waves coincide. When they reach shallow water on the coast, wind waves become larger and higher because the mass of water in the wave is forced to take up less space below. The depth of water now affects the wave’s speed and the crest begins to travel faster than the trough. The wave becomes steeper and breaks. rent travelling in the opposite direction, the waves increase in height. When the swells and current are travelling in the same direction, the waves are much smaller. Ocean Observing System) use computers and satellites to monitor the world’s oceans and to try to predict the behavior of ocean waves. As advances are made in this technology, it becomes ever more likely that we will learn all about the power of the sea. ones as well as big ones, so she was not surprised that a chocolate ones as well as big ones, so she was not surprised that “What a lovely bunny that refused to melt had come alive overnight. you know, surprise!” Granny smiled. “But he needs food and water lettuce from so every day give Browny a bowl of fresh water and some the garden.” as Jasper panion for Jasper and Browny loved Jasper just as much but Jasper loved Browny. The chocolate bunny was truly a miracle, come true. knew that his special Easter fairy had made his wish was chocolate brown with bright black eyes and it went everywhere and it went everywhere brown with bright black eyes was chocolate tied it about the rabbit’s found a piece of string and with him. He away and he talked to it and stroked neck so that it couldn’t jump and he loved it with all his heart. its soft fur and called it Browny, chocolate rabbit melting in the warmth room, she expected to see the to her surprise it looked as solid as ever. of her grandson’s arms, but his Easter Bunny was special and after Jasper however, knew that walk. When Jasper returned, Granny breakfast he took it for a rabbit looked different but she didn’t say thought that the chocolate thing happened and the rabbit slept anything. That night, the same odd about the chocolates because with Jasper. There was nothing one by one, and when she had forgot- Granny had been eating them icebox, they had started to melt. ten to put them back in the make my chocolate bunny into a Easter fairy to “please, please is what Browny wants, too, because real live rabbit. I know that he told me so.” so excited that he could hardly speak. ran into Granny’s kitchen Bunny is a real live rabbit and I need a “Look, Granny, my Easter his neck so he can’t get lost!” piece of string to tie around 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING

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Jasper was five years old and he lived with his grandmother in a Jasper was five years old and the road Jasper carried the parcel to the transport and back along an ear and “Now Jasper, don’t go eating it all at once, just bite off The Easter Jasper looked at Granny in horror. “Eat my rabbit! would melt Granny tried to tell Jasper that the chocolate rabbit e d

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little village in the foothills of the mountains in St. Lucia. He didn’t little village in the foothills that he had left his mother just after know who his father was, only went off to the States where she he was born. His mother eventually able to send a regular money draft to was earning a good salary and that once a her own mother who was Jasper’s granny. So it was town, taking month Granny caught the transport to the closest from his Jasper with her and that is how Jasper received a big parcel that as it was mother. There was also a letter for Granny explaining warning not Easter, the parcel contained a big chocolate bunny and chocolates in to let Jasper eat it all at once. There were also some Easter and the parcel for Granny. “I do hope you both have a lovely give Jasper a big hug and a kiss from me.” if the parcel to Granny’s cottage hugging it tightly to his chest as Jasper asked would jump away. Once inside the little cottage, couldn’t Granny to open the parcel for him because his small fingers was able to lift manage the string and the tape. At last when Jasper in silver foil, out the chocolate bunny he found it securely wrapped rabbit on so very gently he pulled it all away and sat the chocolate the table, and stared at it. the same time I’ll put the rest in the icebox,” instructed Granny at before she as she opened the chocolates, popping one into her mouth put the rest in the icebox. Bunny is my very own pet and I’m keeping him forever.” picked it up away and he must put it in the icebox, but the little boy clutching the and hugged it to his chest. He ate his supper still Granny got Easter Bunny to his chest and went to bed with it. When and tried to herself ready for bed, she went into Jasper’s little room in his sleep take the chocolate rabbit out of her grandson’s arms, but That night Jasper held on to it just as tightly as he had when awake. live rabbit. It Jasper dreamed that the chocolate rabbit was a real, n a

DEEP SECRETS As the longer waves travel, they disperse. The longer waves can overtake the In the ocean, the situation is more complicated with many different wave sys- The first scientist to record his experiments with ripples on a pond was Leonardo Scientists have tried for thousands of years to explain how waves form and move EASTER BUNNY EASTER shorter ones and leave them behind. The longer wind wave can travel huge dis- tances across the sea without losing much energy. Eventually, it becomes lower and rounded and forms a tems converging. Sir Isaac Newton showed mathematically that the speed of a wind wave in deep water is proportional to its wavelength. This simply means that longer waves travel faster than shorter waves. da Vinci. He noticed that, when a stone was dropped into a pond, the ripples spread out. When they reached the edge of the pond, they were reflected and came back through the outgoing waves. When the crests of two separate waves met, the wave became bigger; when the troughs met, the wave became deeper. In between these two extremes, the wave movements could cancel each other out so it looked as though there was no wave at all. but there is still no fool-proof way of predicting exactly when and where waves will travel or how high they will be. APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 on lowheatforanothertenminutes. Cup ofwater,pourslowlyintotheboilingliquidwhilestirringconstantly,andcook Add vinegarandwaterortomatojuice,heattillboiling.Mixcornstarchwith1/4 pepper andspices,leaveitonverylowheatfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally. seeds, corianderseeds) both sidesinhotoil.Setaside. fifth dayweneverhaveanydriedfishleft! using insoupsorstews.Ineverhavedonethataboard the hardertheybecome.Eventuallyyou’llhavetosoaktheminfreshwaterbefore sible —theytastelikesmokedham.Delicious!Thelongeryouleavethestripstodry or threedaysthestripsarereadytoeat.Sliceuncookedasthinpos- the breeze,butinshade.Thesaltwilldeterfliesfromlandingonfillets.Intwo but don’twashthefish.Putathickthreadthroughstripsandhangthemupin The nextdaythesaltwillhavedissolvedandtakenliquidoutoffish.Drain and saltthestripswithtablesalt.Closecontainertightly,leaveitovernight. kilos. Ifitisahugemahi-mahiyoucansaltanddryit. then frythesamewayasabove. might wanttocoatthefilletsinflourmixedwithsaltandherbsdeProvence, ness. Servewithsaltandfreshlygroundpepper—simplescrumptious.Oryou ing, putalidonandreducetheflametominimumcookdesireddone- a littlehotoil;whenturningaddoneslicedonionandfrytheotherside.Afterturn- can cutsteaksoutofthefillets—perfect! not pickleorsaltfishwithbones.Withareallybigthefilletsaresothickyou big fish;allthatboneinthemiddletakestoomuchspacefridge,andyoucan- Next Icutawaytheskintogetmeatonly.don’trecommendmakingsteaksfrom from thetail.Idon’tevengutitfirst.Don’tbetooexacting;justcutalongbones. immediately startwithawell-sharpenedfilletknifetocutoutthefillets,beginning think aboutthatjob.Myjobistowhatdowithsuchmassesofmeat. what afriendofoursrecentlycaught,hugeswordfishmorethan40kilos? mahi. Withallofthoseyoucopeeasily.Butwhattodowithaneight-kilotunaor, need twoforadinnertwo!),sometimesmackerel,or,ifyouarelucky,mahi- you neverknowwhatwillbite.Sometimesitisjustasmallbonito(nice,but FISH –FISH! YOU Heat theoilandfryonionstilltheyarenearlytranslucent.Addsugar,salt, 1/4 Cupwater 3 heapedteaspoonscornstarch 1 Cupwaterortomatojuice 2 Cupsvinegar 1 Tablespoonpicklingspices(e.g.tarragon,bayleaf,juniperberries,mustard 1 teaspoonpepper 1 1/2teaspoonssalt 1/2 Cupsugar 3 largeonions 1 Cupofoil For thepicklingliquiduse: Dredge thefillet-steaksinordinaryflour,mixedwithabitofsalt,andfrythemon Pickled Tuna If youcaughtanykindoftuna,thebestwaytoconservefishispickleit. Cut thefilletsdownmiddlelengthwise,puttheminaTupperwarecontainer, Salt-Dried Mahi-Mahi Now, whattodowiththeother30kilosoffish?Putitinfridge?Maybethree Meanwhile you’llgethungry.Justfrythefirstfilletsorfillet-steaksinapanwith Once thefishisonboardandfinallykilled(trystrong-rum-in-the-gillstrick),I First, itisnoteasytogetabig,heavyfishonboard.ButIleavethemen catch. Iwouldliketohangoutasign:“Mahi-mahi,please!”But ming thesailsyouputfishinglineoutinhopesofatasty leave youranchorageforanewdestination.Shortlyaftertrim- by AngelikaGrüner Angelos becauseafterthe HOUSEOFSEAFOOD CHATEAU MYGO four weeks. fried potatoes.Makesuretherealwaysisalayerofoilontopanditwillkeepupto After threedaysthepickledfishisreadytoeat.Don’treheatit.Welikeeatitwith amount ofwater. cook anotherbatch.Keepinmindthattheamountofvinegarmustbemorethan will needatleastthreelitresofpicklingliquid.Iftheliquiddoesnotcoveryourfish, be ontopsonoaircanreachthefish. must becompletelycovered.Closewithagoodlid.Whentheliquidsets,oilwill perfect -getthemfromtheicevendors);pourhotpicklingliquidoverit.Thefish Marigot Bay, St.LuciaPhone:(758)451-4772 VHF 16 Enjoy! The pickledfishshouldNOTbestoredinthefridge.(Besides,thereisnoroom!) The givenquantityofpicklingliquidisaboutonelitre.Forafive-litrecontaineryou Place thefriedfishsteaksinalargeenoughcontainer(five-litreicecontainersare now what? tuna. Okay, aboard aneight-kilo Richard, hauls Angelika’s husband, Free watertaxipickupfrom your yachttoourdock! 5 &more people&Captaineats for free! Free dockingforyachtsdiningwithus! * Pizzas * Seafood * Steaks on cocktails&beer! All Day &Night Happy Hour APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 ! Compass REMEMBER

☛ to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Dioscoreaceae Dioscoreaceae , family, and have a Convolvulacae Yam flesh is poisonous raw, but cooking makes it Yam flesh is poisonous raw, carbohydrates are Yam’s sugars and complex When buying yams at the market, look for solid, Healthy Yammy Chips 2 pounds of yams 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 3 Tablespoons canola oil salt and seasoning to taste Scrub yams, peel and slice as thinly as possible. Shrimp-Stuffed Yams 3 nice yam pieces (about a pound each) 1 pound medium 1 medium onion, chopped 4 chives 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 Cup milk 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine salt and spices to taste Scrub yams, peel and cut in half lengthwise. Boil There is often confusion between “sweet potatoes” confusion between “sweet There is often smooth red skin. cooked yam contains 150 safe and edible. One cup of fiber, vitamins C and B6, calories with five grams of Potassium helps lower potassium, and manganese. a natural occurring steroid blood pressure. Diosgenin, remedy for arthritis, asth- in yam makes it an herbal diarrhea, menstrual disor- ma, eczema, carbuncles, conditions, and may ders, and certain inflammatory Yam extracts are help reduce the risk of osteoporosis. to hormonal replacement used as a natural alternative the age of menopause. in women who have reached used as a natural herbal Yam’s vitamin B6 has been syndrome (PMS) in supplement for premenstrual depression. women, especially for the accompanying slowly and because absorbed into the bloodstream yams are high in fiber — yams fill you up without fill- ing out your hips and waistline. Manganese in yams helps to slow carbohydrate metabolism and is impor- tant in energy production. hard roots that are heavy for their size, with no soft shrunken spots, cracks or mold. Test by pricking through the skin with a fingernail: the flesh should be crisp and juicy. Store the yams in a cool, well-ventilat- ed place. Wear gloves when peeling yams since they secrete a juice that can irritate the skin. They can be substituted for potatoes in many recipes. Rinse yam slices in cold water mixed with the lemon juice to keep the flesh from turning gray. Pat dry. Lay slices on a baking sheet, sprinkle with oil and toss so both sides of the chips are coated with oil. Bake until crisp. Sprinkle chips with salt and pepper for spicy chips, or use nutmeg, cinnamon and sugar for some- thing different. raw shrimp, peeled and deveined yams in salted water, being careful to avoid breaking. Scoop out center of yam halves so that only an inch of the shell remains. Mash the scooped-out flesh and set the shells aside. Sauté onion, chives and garlic in but- ter; add shrimp and cook, stirring, just until shrimp is pink and curled. Mix in the mashed yam and the milk. Fill yam hollows with mixture and broil until browned. muddy slope. the names many North Americans use and “yams”; are not But yams and sweet potatoes interchangeably. Real yams belong to the the same thing. and its tuber is long and cylindrical family. The edible almost like a tree’s bark. skin is rough and scaly, hand, belong to the Sweet potatoes, on the other Morning Glory, or

CARIBBEAN KITCHEN BY SHIRLEY HALL KITCHEN BY CARIBBEAN here luchette yamatoota purple wild yam that is very koboti trees we found the yam mound halfway up

THE BIG THE

bukano The cutlass edge chiseled out the roots. Creating a The yam filled Milton’s sack and my backpack, prob- I’ve planted and dug a few white ‘bent’ yams and they

A few weeks ago I was presented an opportunity to A few weeks ago I was presented YELLOW YAM YELLOW good-sized ditch, Milton found the downhill contours and the bottom of the yam. The main body was almost two feet long and deep. A yam this size had probably been growing five years or longer. The top side was next, with the strategy to loosen and delicately shake and eventually push the yam intact into the trench, a time-learned skill. The harvest was complete, two heads replanted in the refilled hole. A fast regenera- tion trick is not to cut the vines from the heads. The developed vines have leaves climbing to the high tree branches providing sunlight and nutrients. The old head grows faster since the surrounding dirt is loose. ably 70 pounds. A few dried banana leaves made an adequate head pad and the downhill journey began. The luchette made a good walking stick on the short steep descent to the road. Milton, sack balanced on head, shamed me with his poise down the slick, in Trinidad. The green vine with serious sharp prickers at the ground showed there were at least five ‘heads’. The proper technique is to dig along the downhill side of the tuber, locating the edge and base of the yam. A few careful pokes of the luchette showed unfortunately the yam was wrapped in two thick roots. That’s where the cutlass was handy. The point dug along the root with the object being not to chip the yam. Yams have pieces, called either arms or legs, growing from the main body. Chopped or dinged yam will be quicker to rot. They are best sealed with limejuice to preserve the root pieces. The real art to yam digging is to finish with a full bag of as few pieces as possible. hard to dig as they go down deep. Milton knew this was delicious yellow yam, also called are tedious work. True to its name, bent yam twists are tedious work. True to its name, bent yam twists and almost encompasses any obstacle. We have also encountered the and cutlass in hand. The distance wasn’t much of a and cutlass in hand. The distance wasn’t much of a walk with a bit of a steep climb up a hill away from the dirt road. If the land hadn’t been cleared he would have gone alone, as I’ve heard too many snake stories. Stumbling over cut, browning Guinea grass and slim gray the slope about a metre below a big tree. hunt for yellow yam. Every Caribbean person loves to hunt for yellow yam. Every food” around Lent and eat “provisions” or “ground really a hunt because a especially at Easter. It wasn’t one while clearing bush. friend, Milton Guy, discovered with a taste for it, I like yam, but Milton arrived Milton Guy digging up the big yellow yam — hard work, but deliciously worth the effort APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

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A S group. ItgetsevenbetteraswegointoMay. the partyrisingtogetherinmorningsky(seeFigure1).Keepyoureyeonthis you’ll starttoseeanicetightgroupformedbyalltheseplanetswithVenusjoining Venus isamorningstarnowrisingaround0400hours.Bytheendofmonth to theleftofmoon(seeFigure2). Now you’veleftandnocall.I’mdesperate foryou.Callme! er. Themoonwasout,theweather perfect andwemadecrazymusictogether. motion intheheavens. Everyone knowsthatitisthespinningofEarthgivesappearance the the earthbackwardstogobackandsaveLois?Thatreallyhappened,right? occurred? Wait,doestimegotheotherwaythentoolikewhenSupermanflewaround then spinstheotherway.Inthatcasewouldweevennoticeflip has the monthorkissyourboatgoodbye. I’m interestedinUranus. Kirstie Alleyfallingoutofbed. the westoutofLyra,whichrisesaround2220hours. much moreactive.RadiantistheconstellationLyrasolookformeteorsstreakingto THE SKYINAPRIL 16th -Saturnridesthenightskywithnearlyfullmoon.Lookforjust 3rd -NewMoon Sky EventsthisMonth SATURN -Risesintheeveningandsetsearlymorning.RidingskyVirgo Mercury, Jupiter,andMarsallnearthesunearlyinmonthso The PlanetsinApril Happy AprilFoolsDay everyone! To ContemplateWhileHavingaGlass ofWineonDeck IS THERENOEDITORATTHECOMPASS?!? Ramona, S/VLonely Why haven’tyoucalled?Yousaidyou’dcall. Wehadthatbeautifuleveningtogeth- Dear Capt.Crappy, Copernicus, Wait…WHAT? Copernicus, S/VHeliocentric Why doyoukeeptalkingabouttherisingandsettingofsunplanets? Dear Capt.Clueless, Ralph, Youneedtostepawayfromtherumbottleforafewdaysandthinkthisthrough. Ralph, S/VRumsalot I assumethatwhenthenorthandsouthmagneticpolesflipEarthalso Dear Capt., Hey, whoprintedthisletter? Iowa City,Georgia Fleecem, Cheatham&Sue I. Fleecem You arenowthreemonthsinarrearsalimony.Pleasesendmoneybytheend of Dear Mr.Welty, Bill -Pleasestopit.You’reembarrassingyourselfandthewholecountry. Bill O’Reilly,S/VClueless Every daythetidegoesin,out.day.Nobodycanexplainthat,right? Dear AstronomyGuy, Sam, InevermentionUranusinpolitecompanyanddon’tthinkyoushouldeither. Sam, S/VOverthehill Every monthyoulistalltheplanetsbutnevermentionUranus.Whyisthis? Dear Capt.SmartyPants, Yes, Arnoldthisistrueandwe’vefiguredoutthattheseepisodesaretightlytiedto Arnold, S/VRemorseful Is ittruethemagneticpolesflippolarityeveryonceinawhile? Dear CaptainScience, Letters fromtheFleet! 22nd -LyridsMeteorShower,givingtento20meteorsperhourbutsometimes 17th FullMoon

THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY!

FIGURE 1 FIGURE FIGURE 2 FIGURE by ScottWelty 0515 hours April 30th, sky on The eastern 2100 hours April 16th, moon on Saturn andthe no see‘em . APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 and dis- and Brandy and Brandy In 2004, the

Compass a company which “collects” a company which “collects”

gives but one example of the , Compass Compass Interrupted lights either flashing or occulting or ISO The Collision Regulations are also quite clear that a The disregard for the Collision Regulations by There is much correspondence in • Choice of consultants for site suitability assess- for site suitability • Choice of consultants • Track record of Cristiane Bomeny: One Cristiane • Track record of Cristiane • Violation of environmental laws: One would hope that “to be forewarned is to The “Return of the Strobe” article by Jim Hutchinson cussion on websites and radio about the dangers of pirates and other waterborne criminals, but I would suggest that it is our fellow yachtsmen who also pro- vide major dangers. —Continued on next page disregard that many yachtsmen seem to show for the disregard that many yachtsmen seem to show for the International Collision Regulations. However, the writ- er did not make clear that there is no doubt that an anchor light should be an uninterrupted light shown over an arc of 360 degrees. Uninterrupted means fixed and not flashing and this applies to all ship navigation lights with the exception of hovercraft, which (because they may proceed in almost any direction relative to their heading) show a flashing yellow light when underway. Strobes are not even accepted by the Collision Regulations as distress signals on vessels. are reserved for navigational marks — buoys, lighthous- es and beacons etcetera — so flashing anchor lights can be confused with navigational marks. When anchored outside Jolly Harbour, Antigua recently, a neighbouring catamaran was showing a flashing light of exactly the same characteristics as the beacon located on McNish Mountain on a transit that led over the approach chan- nel into Jolly Harbour. The skipper was totally oblivious to the confusion he could be causing. Similar problems have also been witnessed in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica and other anchorages. So this is not just an aesthetic problem as suggested. However, the majority of yachts do now seem to show correct anchor lights. masthead tricolour light should not be shown at the same time as low-level port, starboard and stern lights and that a steaming light should not be shown in con- junction with a masthead tricolour light and only with the low-level navigation lights. Sadly, this seems to be something that some yachtsmen do not understand and many yachts seem to show every light at their disposal when underway at night — sidelights, stern light, tricolour masthead light, anchor light and steaming light — possibly on the basis that the more lights you show the more likely you are to be seen. yachtsmen is also demonstrated by the fact that most smaller yachts do not show anchor balls when at anchor and inverted cones when motoring with sails set, and I have to confess that I am as guilty here as anyone. However I have it on good authority that insurance companies may downgrade a claim made for collision damage if the appropriate shape is not being shown, and that would also apply if the correct lights were not being shown at night. of Grenada. The company Urbaniza belongs to the The company Urbaniza belongs of Grenada. in Brazil, Centre Group of Companies World Trade in the real having “a 40-year experience described as large- and developing and construction estate market objective of in various countries”. The size undertaking in gener- developing real estate projects Urbaniza is “ services relat- and provision of al… and the execution ed to credit securitization.” to undertake choice of consultants ment: Urbaniza’s also suggests speculative the suitability assessment was not conducted by activity. The site assessment in port development. consultants with expertise by ECOPLAN, an interna- Rather, it was conducted architectural firm tional land planning and landscape and design of resort and specializing in the planning worldwide, residential environments Marine International LLC, marinas into a chain linked by common management marinas into a chain linked and precise operating procedures. of Urbaniza in Grenada. It Bomeny has been the face incorporated six com- would appear that Ms. Bomeny 1991 and 2002, only panies in the Miami area between It has also been noted one of which is listed as active. Transnational Properties, that one of those companies, called WSG Development Inc. and another company development known as Co. were involved in a Miami and hotel condo WSG’s Canyon Ranch, a residential Bros. Following the development financed by Lehman collapse and restructuring of Lehman Bros., this development was foreclosed in 2009. Brazilian Environmental Authority placed a stop order on Servlease Real Estate Ltda., a company of the WTC group involved in the Tres Praias-Guarapari–ES tour- ism and residential development, for violation of envi- ronmental laws and impeding people’s access to a beach area. The company ignored the order. The Authority took legal action and a November 2009 fed- eral court ruling ordered the company, among other things, to repair all damage done to the area and restore the unhindered access of the population to the beach. be forearmed”. Best regards, Sandra C.A. Ferguson Grenada Dear in February’s , Compass . The photo in this new

' . As a concerned citizen of S R E M , , U D A R Caribbean Compass Compass Compass E O The tradewinds are not stable until the end of Greetings from Grenada! My attention has been Further, when there is a big low in the Atlantic (as If one looks at the weather chart for November I’d also like to comment on the coverage of the It is the strangest policy I have ever heard of and In 48 years in the marine insurance business I have Regarding Bernard Logan’s article “Riding Out article “Riding Out Regarding Bernard Logan’s • What is Urbaniza? Based on information obtained The following information should raise “red flags” for FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' December or early January, and the “Christmas winds” can arrive any time from late November to late December. In 2005 they never arrived until the middle of the second week in January — when they arrived with a vengeance! You can spend Christmas cruising the Cape Verdes and cross the Atlantic in late December or early January when the trades have set- tled in solidly. Don Street Glandore, Ireland Dear drawn to the article “A Container Port for Carriacou” by Chris Doyle on page 24 in the January 2011 issue of the book, showing an absolute glassy calm, was taken book, showing an absolute glassy calm, was taken December 10th at 15 degrees north, halfway between Brava and Antigua. in 2002 and 2009) or a late season hurricane (as in in 2002 and 2009) or a late season hurricane (as in 2005) there is no wind in the normal tradewind area, as is illustrated on page 18 of my soon-to-be-released Guide to the Cape Verde Islands (which is on the back of the Imray Iolaire Atlantic (which is on the back of the Imray Iolaire Atlantic Passage chart 100), the square covering the Canary Islands shows a moderately long southwest arrow. Thus, every November there will be a period of south- west winds driving boats down to the Cape Verdes rather than across the Atlantic. Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) in the same issue. It Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) in the same issue. It is noted that because of the weather conditions encountered after leaving the Canaries in November 2010, some 50 ARC boats ended up stopping in the Cape Verdes. A similar thing has happened three times in the last seven years — in 2002, 2005 and 2009. appears to be a lawyer’s delight as if the boat sank appears to be a lawyer’s delight as if the boat sank with all hands it would be years and a lot of lawyer’s fees before the heirs could collect. never seen a policy with terms and conditions like never seen a policy with terms and conditions like Logan says he had. The only thing I can think of is the underwriter figured if the boat was severely damaged at sea during a hurricane it would sink, the crew’s chances of surviving in a liferaft in hurricane condi- tions would be zero, and since the owner of the boat would be on board and not survive, there would be no one to make a claim! If the owner’s heirs tried to claim they would have problems, because if there is no body a person cannot be declared dead for seven years. Further, since there is no wreck, how do the heirs and assigns prove that the boat sank? the third condition of the terms and conditions of his the third condition of the terms insurance policy — where he says his boat was covered under better terms and conditions at sea in a hurri- cane than if hit while at anchor or securely moored in mangroves or marina — makes no sense to me at all. Dear issue of Hurricane Tomas” in the January on the company and its principals, it is reasonable to conclude that the proposed Urbaniza development is just another scheme to control Carriacou’s scarce and valuable land resources for real estate speculative pur- poses, to the detriment of the Government and people the Government and people of Grenada: Grenada, I want to thank Mr. Doyle for his thought- provoking observations on this proposed “develop- ment”. In addition to the negative environmental and social impacts on which Mr. Doyle has commented, permit me to add concerns in respect of the credentials of the investors/developers. Who are they? What is their source of funds? What is their track record? APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialist brokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloyds andam business for47years.Ihavedeveloped arapport McIntyre Bros.Ltd. TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 e-mail: [email protected] “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. Duty-Free EnginesforYachts insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood FAX: (473)4442899 Parts -RepairsService www.street-iolaire.com Myclaimssettlementrecord Insurance Marine cannot bematched. — Dear S/Y Oriole John Lytle he wasthestand-onvesselandjuststeamedon! approaching onthestarboardbow.Atleastheknew alter coursetoavoidhittingaspermwhalewhichwas Guadeloupe onourreturntriptoTrinidadwehad me ifyouseetransgressing. should doourbestnotto,sopleaseshoutat ones wewanttoobey.Weallmakemistakes,but careless attitudethatwecanpickandchoosewhich should putthemintopracticeandmustnothavethe at SeaandIguessthatmostofusare.Howeverwe International RegulationsforthePreventionofCollision dangerous, ormaybethinkthatIaminthewrong. or justdonotcare,aredeliberatelybeingdifficultand discover iftheyareignorantoftheCollisionRegulations, yachtsmen whohavebehavedinthiswayorderto not showingthedaysignalforfishingeither! at becauseweranoverhisfishinglines,andhewas bear awaybehindacatamaranandwerethensworn does notseemverysensible.Inonecasewehadto or wasplayingadangerousgameof“chicken”,which the helmsmaneitherdidnotappreciatehisobligations each occasionthereisnodoubtwehadbeenseen,but collision withyachtsrunningfreeonporttack.On have hadtobearawayin50percentofcasesavoid quarters situationsbetweenTrinidadandAntiguaI on porttack.However,recently,insixrelativelyclose erally onstarboardtackandanyonecomingsouthis yacht travellingnorthwardsintheislandchainisgen- with theprevailingwindsinEasternCaribbean,a by ayachtonanyotherpointofsailing.Therefore, starboard tackisthestand-onvesselwhenapproached We shouldallknowthatayachtsailingclosehauledon which shouldstandoninaclosequarterssituation. which vesselswhenunderwayshouldgivewayand Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle using birds”. meat ratherthanbrains,forthousandsofyears. have beenbredfortheirabilitytolayeggsandproduce with thecounterexampleofchickens,rememberthese to besobrightwithlittle.Andbeforeanyonecomesup work insomedifferentway(frommammals)toallowthem What isbeingconsiderednowwhethertheirbrains saurs, soareonlyaverydistantrelationtomammals. small brains.However,theyaredescendedfromdino- before, Alexsaid,“GivemeaN–U-T.” requests. Eventually,havingneverdonesuchathing wanted wasanut,andsheignoringthebird’s ing toteachAlexspelloneday,butwhat colors wereallmixedtogether.Theresearcherwastry- correctly choosethesewhenavarietyofshapesand equations). Alexcouldanalyzeshapesandcolors want nut”thananeruditediscussionofquadratic would uselanguagetotalkher(itwasmore“Alex researcher hadaveryfamousparrotcalledAlex,who only oneofmanyexamplestool-usingbirds.One a nicehookontheendandremovedmeat.Thisis left lyingaround.Innotimeacrowtookthewire,bent too deeptoreachwiththeirbeaks.Abitofwirewas some while,theanswertothatis“definitelyyes!” term “birdbrain”asaderogatoryexpressionforquite we givethemcreditfor?”Giventhathaveusedthe Reel Extreme And forrepeatoffenders,letthemknowthat youheard tying up,pleaseexplainthatlengthreally doesmatter. pen tomeetthenewkidsonblockwhile theyare for areplacementdinghy. person’s dinghyandIamsureyouwouldn’t liketopay movement yourpropellercouldeasilycut intoanother Some oftheballoonsonshortstringsmight burst. a bunchofballoonsonshortstrings.Yep, yougotit. think aboutabunchofballoonsonlongstringsversus easy forothers.Ifyoucan’timaginehowthisworks, push theotherdinghiesclear,thusmakingaccess ghy dock,whenthenextdinghyarrives,itissimpleto dock themselves. other dockusersarriveandattempttogetontothe ing unduedamagetoyourdinghyespeciallywhen long painter: exhibiting poorseamanship. being inconsideratetotheirfellowcruiserswhile simply acaseofignorance.Ifnot,thenitis and thentilttheiroutboard.Iamsurethatthisis the onesthattietheirdinghiesveryclosetodock As afinaltwist,whensailingfromAntiguato All ofusshouldbethoroughlyconversantwiththe I wouldlovetobeinapositionquestionfellow The CollisionRegulationsarequiteclearabout For moredetailsGoogle“alextheparrot”or“tool- What isinterestingaboutthisthatbirdshavevery In thelab,crowswereofferedabitofmeatinjar In March’sreaders’Forum,CaptainSeanKessellof So fellowcruisers,Isuggesttwothings: ifyouhap- • Liftingyourengineisnotagoodidea; withallthe • Ifeveryoneusedalongpainteroncrowdeddin- • Yourdinghywillnotrubupagainstthedock,caus- There areseveralreasonswhypeopleshouldusea Spotting thenewkidsonblockiseasy;they’re Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass asks“Arethebirdsmoreintelligentthan , , —Continuedonnextpage changing areaonthebeach. for repairandmaintenancethepublic toiletsand on thepublicbeach,andeffortwillinclude funding on thebeach.Thenewstructureisbeing constructed events, stillbeingheldinvariousbusiness enterprises guides areworkingalongonanewstructure forthe great camaraderie,socializing,food,and dancing.The past occurrences,butitdoesmakeonefeel secure. to time.Itmaybealittleoverkillinrelationthefew an openhatch,onecanseethelightgoingbyfromtime light toassistthem.Ifoneisawakeatnight,looking patrols. Aswell,theyhaveatleastonehigh-powered the governmenttoassistintheirnightlysecurity and acquiredafast,redinflatablesafetygearfrom tion ofothersailorsare: lous. Anumberofitemswewishtobringtheatten- ing merchantswerecourteous,thehikesfabu- about pastoccurrences.Thisyearwasagreattime. never hadaproblemthere,webeenconcerned Rupert Bayfor Dear CC ronmental fees,etcetera—it’schaos. variously calledport,Customs,cruisingpermitorenvi- er aflatfee,anotherchargescombination;are length, anotherbytonnage;onehasmonthlyfees,anoth- country chargesperperson,anotheraccordingtoboat Vincent &theGrenadines,andGrenada.Currently,one Montserrat, St.Kitts&Nevis,Dominica,Lucia, Caribbean States:theBVI,Anguilla,Antigua&Barbuda, fees standardizedthroughouttheOrganizationofEastern to chargeyachtfeesbythemonth. productive topromotingyachttourism,forgovernments time charge.Wedothinkit’sunfair,andalsocounter- or Antigua,andEC$68inSt.Lucia.Butthisisaone- ture fee:forexample,EC$40inSVG,EC$50Grenada when departingbyair,visitorsgenerallypayadepar- permit, foraninitialtotalofUS$26(aboutEC$70). entry feeplusUS$10(aboutEC$26.80)monthlycruising between 41and80feetwillpayaUS$16(aboutEC$43) is abargainatEC$9perperson.InAntiguaboat and EC$40forboatsover40feet,enteringDominica entry feesadduptoonlyEC$30forboatsunder40feet tional portchargeofEC$8.10perperson.ButinSt.Lucia, 50 to60feet,andsoforthonup;plusthereisanaddi- cruising permitfeeforboatsupto50feet,EC$75 couple. Forexample,GrenadachargesanEC$50monthly fee), assumingatotalmonthlyfeeofEC$70forcruising charging neighbors(theFrenchislandschargenoentry person permonthiscomparabletothatofsomeitsfee- St. Vincent&theGrenadinesofEC$35(aboutUS$13)per and/or foreigncharterboatfees,thestandardentryfeefor marine environment.Notcountingadditionalovertime famous” mightbeprotectingtheirprivacyaswellthe I wonder?”InthecaseofMustique,perhaps“richand the parkself-supporting. person perday.Thesemodestuserfeeshelptomake entry feefortheparkisEC$10(aboutUS$3.75)per charges yachtvisitorsUS$4perpersonday. you donotpayafeeifanchored.However,theBVI you canpayforjustoneortwonights’mooring,and approximately US$75).ThedifferenceisthatintheBVI, night stayworksoutatthesamecost(EC$200equals rate fromtheBVI,where,atUS$25pernight,athree- Mustique Companyseemstohavetakenitsmooring available) hereisconsidereda“conservationfee”.The charge formooring(oranchoringifnomooringsare are designatedamarineconservationarea,andthe neighboring islands,allofthewatersaroundMustique those insomeneighboringislands.Butdifferentfrom Dear Angie, Soca Angie Crowley Best regards, region thatIknow. will bepassingonthistoeveryonesailingin they haveaproblemwithvisitingyachts,Iwonder? Tobago Cays,itbecomessomewhatridiculous.Do clear inatBequia,withoutpayingtheextrafor other islands.ConsideringitcostsEC$130whenyou Grenadines arenowexorbitantincomparisontothe Having saidthat,werealizethatSt.Vincent&the voyage, butitseemsthisisthechargewhatever. EC$200 foronetothreenights.Wereonlybreakinga Mustique, wewerehorrifiedbytheirmooringcharge: Dear S/V Stingo John Perry Yours sincerely, urinate inadinghythatistieduptooclose. a nastyrumourthatitisconsideredverygoodformto • TheSundaynightbarbecuesareback on,with • SecurityatPortsmouth:Theguideshaverequested The boathandlers/riverguidesweregreat,thefloat- I would like to report a very enjoyable return to Prince I wouldliketoreportaveryenjoyablereturnPrince We’d lovetoseeyachtclearanceproceduresandentry People travelingbyyachtarenotsingledoutforfees: You ask,“Dotheyhaveaproblemwithvisitingyachts, The TobagoCaysareaNationalMarinePark;the Yes, mooringsinMustiqueareexpensivecomparedto We justhadanunfortunateexperience.Arrivingat Compass, Compass , Cat Tales this year. Although we’ve thisyear.Althoughwe’ve APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 8) SYSTEMS 9) SCIENTISTS 10) SATELLITES All the words begin with S. Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of are now back as DVDs. restaurants and hotels. restaurants and Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’s guides are timeless. DOLLY’S ANSWERS Street’s Guides and DVDs are available NEW! With all these updates readily available, With all these updates readily Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine up-to-date Imray information on tracking and securing for a storm. Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist any guide; similarly, the tourist up-to-date than or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com departments put out a free annual guide for bars, out a free annual guide for departments put infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free every island puts out infrastructure, virtually marine trade guide every year, which is much more every year, which is much marine trade guide DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ 1) SEA 2) STONE 3) SWELL 4) SPEED 5) SHORE 6) SHORT 7) SHALLOW Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on — or if they do they are shown Rocks don’t move at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS GOOD GUIDES HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harborReal sailors use Street’s Guides anecdotes of people,piloting directions, plus interesting are the only ones thatplaces and history. Street’s Guides describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland M92B M135 M225Ti Sabre M225Ti

GUY DEAN Send your letters to: Send your letters [email protected] or Ltd. Compass Publishing Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 the Grenadines St. Vincent & , Seabird Call Parts & Power for your nearest dealer: (284) 494 2830 www.caribbeancompass.com www.partsandpower.com , Caribbean Compass We’re onWeb! the We’re Readers

Compass This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out 225 hp. By comparison, our nearest competition takes that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour the M225Ti 3300 rpm or higher, versus the competition’s TBO) and quieter operation. The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo An integral plate-type oil cooler combines fewer hoses charger gives better performance at lower rpms. with longer life and better efficiency. outstanding marinization, excess hoses and belts have been engineered away and With Perkins’ everything has easy access for stress-free maintenance. The Perkins Sabre M225Ti is designed to replace the Perkins more than 22% additionalM200 and M235 and provides available in the same package. horsepower Continued from previous page Continued from Thank you for your attention. • The Customs and Immigration check-in and -out• The Customs and Immigration • The security effort is funded by the river guides, effort is funded by the river • The security safe way of getting to • The buses are a reliable and We do not publish individual consumer complaints or We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside 22% more (sea) horses Laurie and Dawn Corbett S/V Cat Tales Dear process at Prince Rupert Bay may now be the slickest inprocess at Prince Rupert Bay your next island is French. the Caribbean, especially if through donations from businesses and from yachties from businesses and through donations the Sunday and through proceeds from like ourselves, are a fund- Although the barbecues night barbecues. are a prod- they are so enjoyed that they raising event, for visit- and another great reason uct in themselves, all this is guides’ organization managing ing. The river Services Association of Yacht called the Portsmouth The guides their own Facebook page. (PAYS), who have You must volunteer. If will not ask you for a donation. they are worthy of a dona- you believe, as we do, that Jeffrey of tion, contact the current president, and touring venues on the and from the many hiking the Cabrits National island. As well, the trails through of the fortifications that Park through the portions properly maintained and have yet to be revitalized are taken over by the jungle, a must-see! The structures, movie sets, and the views bring to mind Aztec ruins in are fantastic. of the Saintes and Guadeloupe — on VHF 68. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 8 04 yaCatM,40Ct,3srs $295,000 $30,000 $89,900 $119,000 $325,000 $20,000 48’ 2004DynaCraftMY,450Cats,3strms 42’ 1971GrandBanks,Woodenclassic, CGcert. $45,000 38’ 1977Chris-CraftCorinthian,roomy, cockpit 37’ 1986CMLTrawler,Greatliveaboard, needsengs. $80,000 50’ 1978NautorMSailer,refit,excellentcruiser 44’ 1988MorganCatalina,excellentcond. 38’ 1967LeComte,Northeast38,classic,excellentcond. 36’ 1980AlbinStratus,daysailbusinessseparate Call, faxorvisitourwebsitefor acompletelistofboatsforsale to recordallworkcompleted. This isahandsonposition,andthecandidatewillbeexpected Refrigeration andFiberglassrepairworkbenefi Electronics, Air ConditioningSystems,12voltDC&220 AC Systems. Marine DieselEngines,OutboardBoatElectricaland Skills mustincludeindepthknowledgethefollowingfi Trader Pilothouse,excellent Positions availablethroughouttheCaribbeanforMaintenance Technicians to look after all aspects of boat repair and maintenance. The successful to lookafterallaspectsofboatrepairandmaintenance. The successful Salary commensuratewithexperience. Saturdays andholidays. Applicants mustbepreparedtoworkflexiblehoursincluding ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES condition $64,900.00 40’ 1982Marine e-mail: [email protected]:784-457-3524 candidate must be self-motivated and have prior experience. candidate mustbeself-motivatedandhavepriorexperience. Mail: OperationsManager, TradeWinds CruiseClubBequia Maintenance Technician Port Elizabeth,Bequia,St.Vincent &theGrenadines Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, Please sendapplicationswithreferencesto: Wanted www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] PO Box194BQ Power Sail cial. cial. 46’ 2001SeaRaySundancer, Freshwater boat Freshwater $250,000.00 elds: herb wascalled been usedbytheancientHindusofIndiaandNepalthousandsyearsago.The of cannabissmokecanbefoundasfarback3000BCE.Itisalsoknowntohave hemp. CannabisisindigenoustoCentralandSouthAsia.Evidenceoftheinhalation thousands ofyears.Accordingtosomesources,thefirstfabricwaswovenfrom tourism sectorhavemadeduringthatperiodifmarijuanahadbeenlegalized? Jamaica toeliminatemarijuanaproductionandtrafficking.WhatwouldJamaica’s revenue. Between1992and’98,theUnitedStatesprovidedUS$7.8millionto now estimatedat30percentoftheworld’smarket.Butislandsgetlittle willing toriskthefrownofbigoldUS—whohasgreatestillicitdrugappetite, as culturallyentrenched.” panacea andaspirituallyenhancingsubstanceissostrongthatitmustberegarded One UScommissionreported,“Marijuana’sreputationamongislandpeopleasa beaches, andbars.Eventhoughitisagainstthelaw,partofislandculture. cash cropsintheislandsandSouthAmericanmainland. locks smokingmarijuanaandhumming‘BuffaloSoldier’.Ganjaisoneofthebiggest a prevalentislandiconitwouldprobablybedark-skinnedWestIndianwithdread- used initstransport.Yet,ifanAmericanorEuropeantouristwereaskedtoidentify the Caribbeanposesseverepenaltiesincludingconfiscationofanyvehicleorboat hope —iscurrentlyillegal.Ifonecaughtwiththislucrativevegetablecontraband, island intheCaribbean.Everythingaboutmarijuana—exceptwritingit,I who aremakingusshouteverymorningoverthesafetynet?” was ayachtingmagazine;wecruisersfeardrugsmugglers!Aren’tthosetheguys amounts oftourismtoanisland? ity, andculture;yes,yes.Butwhatisnewdifferentenoughtodrawmega- twice? Sportfishingisanexcitingtime,butgettingexpensive.Restaurants,hospital- Yeah, there’ssomeneatwaterfallsandtrails,buthaveyoueverdonethesameone lobster andastingray,oronewalldiveisbasicallythesameasothers.Hiking? Caribbean? Notat’ing,mon.Samestuffonalltheislands.Sometoutdiving,butone wearing theT-shirt’type?Whatwouldbringyouback?isnovelintoday’s fish tocatch,butfewhaveanyothermajorsourceofrevenue. Most bottlesomebeerandrum,othershaveaspiceortwofruittopick price. Thatnoveltyhasgoneasthecostshavesoared. 1960s and’70s(givingawayourages)wheneverythingwasexcitingatareasonable was afeelingoffreedomandliberationfrommostsocialnorms,similartothelate British neededhemptorigtheirsailingships.Ashemp, in SouthAmerica(inChile)1545,andNorth(atVirginia)1606.The enue fromtheCaribbean’smostmarketable agriculturalproduct,ganja? “Holiday HempGarments”orpostcards from “Jah-Makin’PaperProducts’. ple. Envisiontheexpansionofusual touristmerchandisewithT-shirtsmadeby profit fromlegalganja. product. Small-timetheftmightnotbean avenueforapersonwhocouldgrowand could bebetterspentdealingwithviolent actsthatfurtherdamagethetourism incarcerate thosewhoarecommittinga victimless crime.Time,fundsandresources vehicle undertheinfluencewouldbeacrime. old. Smokingwouldstillbebannedinpublic,and,aswithalcohol,operating a cordoned offfromimpressionableyouths.Userswouldhavetobeatleast21years marijuana inhospice-hotelstoeasetheirpain.Everyaspectofinhalationwould be ill patientscouldspendtheirlastdaysenjoyingthetropicalclimateusingmedicinal fear arrestorrip-off.Localswouldhavealsotobuyapermitforuse.Terminally license therewouldbeapaidpermitforuse,butthetokingtouristsnolonger it throughlegal,comfortable,safeshops.Ofcourse,justlikethevisitor’sdriver’s would taxtheproductorbuyitfromgrowerlikenutmegcoffee,anddistribute plot ofland.Thecropandgrowingmethodswouldbeinspected.government island’s revenue? to alenientisland?Wouldtheleniencycontributepositivelyornegativelythat spliff withnofearofpersecutionorprosecution,wouldthatattractyouasatourist If youwereinclinedtoenjoyavacationswinginginhammockwhilesmoking a unashamed cannabistourism. freeuk.com) began.Itlistscoolplacestosmoke.Aboveall,theACDisabout available. In1998theACDorAmsterdamCoffeeshopDirectory(www.coffeeshop. the termcoffeeshophascometomeanaplacewherehashishandmarijuanaare from manufacturingtheseitemscanbeusedtomakepaper. or oilsusedforfueltocreatefoodproductshighinvitaminK.Thewasteproduct for howeasilyitgrowsanditsmanyuses.Hempcanbemadeintotextilesrope, R Actually marijuanaistheinnocenthempplantusedaroundworldfortensof Here’s somehistoryandafewfacts. So whichislandisgoingtomakeitpartofthetourismproduct?Theonethat I’m certainyou’veseenandsmelledit;cannabissmokersareeverywhereinboats, It isabsolutelyillegaltouse,possess,cultivate,transferortradeganjainevery Nah, mybudsandIwerejustsupposing…foodforthought. “Wait aminute,”yousay,“IsRalphTroutadvocatingthedrugtrade?Ithoughtthis Over anotherrum,mybudsandIdecided,“Cannabistourism,that’swhat!” What attractsyoutoanislandin2011?Area‘beenthere,donethat,and Today competitionforthetouristdollaristoughamongallCaribbeanislands. Europeans broughtmarijuana/hemptothewesternhemisphere.Itwasfirstgrown Hey, myfriendsandIintherumshopare justtalkinghere,talking…. Is ittimeforagovernmenttoincreasenot theenforcementbuteconomicrev- Hemp stalkscouldbeusedforcordageand paperproducts,settingaworldexam- Small islandeconomiesnolongerbenefitbyhavingtopolice,judge,penalizeand The governmentcouldissueagrower’slicenseatsubstantialfeeforanidentified What Caribbeanislandwillbethefirsttorealizevalueofcannabistourism? Everyone knowsthatyoucangetanicesafehighinAmsterdam.IntheNetherlands NEW PRODUCT chat turnedtowhatoriginallyattractedustheCaribbean.Uniformlyit state ofthelocaleconomyinNoBuenoSuerteBay,St.Dondequiera, umming itupwithafewbudstheotherafternoon,commentingonsad ganjika TOURISM inSanskrit. WHAT’S ONMYMIND by RalphTrout cannabis sativa isvalued APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 73’ Executive Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000 at any of these locations (advertis-

2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’

Lagoon 2008 50’ 1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’ Jones Maritime & Sailing School Morning Glory Café Schooner Bay Market SCUBA Dive Shop St. Croix Marine St. Croix Yacht Club Strand Street Station Tickles Crown Bay Marina Office Island Marine at Crown Bay Marina Messages Mail & More at Crown Bay Marina Offshore Marine Connections at Cruz Bay Connections at Coral Bay Market Square Cruz Bay Green Cay Marina SUBBASE AREA ST. JOHN ST. CROIX ): bold Caribbean Compass Readers! When in St. Thomas/St John, USVI, pick up your PICK UP! Compass Marina Market Ahoy, Sapphire Marina and Hotel lobby (Sapphire Bay) American Yacht Harbor Office Latte In Paradise Coffee Cart Burrito Bay Deli Island Marine (Red Hook) Molly Malone’s Red Hook Mail Service St. Thomas Yacht Club Bottoms Up Budget Marine Patsy’s Place (Compass Point) Food Center Pirate’s Cove Marina VI Charter League Flagship Frenchtown Deli (Fisherman’s wharf) free monthly copy of the ers in this issue appear in RED HOOK AREA AMERICAN YACHT HARBOR BENNER BAY AREA YACHT HAVEN GRAND MARINA See ad on page 12. See ad on page 7. See ad on page 12. See ad on page 13 www.begos.com/easterregatta

See ad on page 13 went to press — but plans change, s & String Band Festival.

Compass [email protected]. CALENDAR and contact information of the organizing body to All information was correct to the best of our knowledge Carriacou Maroon o please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. BVI Dinghy Championships. [email protected] St. Lucia J/24 Open Championship. www.stluciayachtclub.com St. Lucia Jazz Festival. www.stluciajazz.org West Indies Regatta, St. Barth’s. please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name

Lowell Wheatley Anegada Pursuit Race & Cruise. www.rbviyc.org Les Saintes Regatta. www.triskellcup.com www.caribbeancompass.com Metimer Boat Show, St. Martin www.coyc-sxm.com Captain Oliver’s Regatta, St. Martin. Tobago Underwater Carnival. www.tobagounderwatercarnival.com BVI Poker Run. www.pokerrunbvi.com www.sailbarbados.com Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta. Guadeloupe Race. www.triskellcup.com Round Heineken Easter Regatta. Bequia celebrations, Union Island, Grenadines Easterval Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com Tobago Goat Races in Mt. Pleasant and Buccoo, Classic Yacht Regatta. Antigua Regatta, Grenada. www.oystermarine.com Oyster Martinique to St. Lucia Race. [email protected] Quantum IC24 International Regatta, BVI. www.rbviyc.org Cuba. [email protected] Morro Castle Race, Havana, Jost Van Dyke, BVI. Foxy’s Wooden Boat Regatta, Puerto Rico Vela Cup. www.puertoricovelacup.com St. Barth Film Festival. www.stbarthff.org at the time this issue of St. Barth Theatre Festival. www.festivaldetheatredesaintbarthelemy.com Rally, St. Martin to Cuba. www.transcaraibes.com Transcaraibes

www.grenadagrenadines.com Grenada Drum Festival. www.anguillaregatta.com Anguilla Sailing Festival. Les Voiles de St. Barth. www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com San Juan, Puerto Rico. www.saboreapuertorico.com Saborea food festival, Martinique Cup Regatta, Lamentin, Martinique. YCM Commodore’s Cup, St. John, USVI. [email protected] FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Gay Rum Barbados Regatta. Feeder Race, St. Lucia to Mount (Queen’s Birthday). Public holiday in Dutch islands FULL MOON FULL Public holiday in the Cayman Islands (Discovery Day) Public holiday in Haiti (Flag Day) St. Croix Reef Jam. www.ReefJam.com Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Indian Arrival Day), FULL MOON FULL Queen Pursuit Race, BVI. www.rbviyc.org Virgin Compass Writers’ Brunch, Bequia. [email protected] Annual Sunday (Good Friday) Public holiday in many places Easter www.sailingweek.com Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. International Earth Day (Easter Monday) Public holiday in many places Heroes’ Day) Public holiday in Barbados (National St. John Race, USVI. [email protected] Around If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, to Portugal. Start of ARC Europe, Tortola some places (Armistice Day) Public holiday in Montserrat Local Fishing Tournament, places (Labour Day celebrated) Public holiday in many Rally, Tortola to Virginia. Start of Atlantic Cup Underwater Clean-Up, Bonaire. 30 30 – 1 May 30 – 2 May 30 – 8 May in Bonaire Windsurfing races 29 – 1 May 14 - 15 14 – 15 14 – 15 14 - 15 16 16 – 21 17 18 18 - 20 21 – 22 27 - 29 www.foxysbar.com/woodenRegatta.html 27 - 29 27 – 29 28 – 29 29 30 TBA www.stluciayachtclub.com Anguilla (Anguilla Day) and Haiti (Mother’s Day) 7 8 12 – 15 1 2 3 – 15 6 – 8 7 - 8 7 – 9 1 16 18 21 21 – 25 21 – 25 21 – 25 22 22 22 24 24 – 29 25 25 – 26 28 29 – 1 May MAY 12 - 17 14 – 19 9 www.dive-friends-bonaire.com/clean_up_dives 10 11 – 16 4 – 9 2 – 3 2 – 22 1 – 3 APRIL APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES • FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHES •TOOLS Incl. Pilots, Rigging Chandlery, Charts, • CLEANING SUPPLIES • TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD YACHT SERVICES Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Primer, Epoxy,TopCoat, MID ATLANTIC St. Vincent & the Grenadines for St. Vincent&theGrenadinesfor Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices Email: [email protected] Tel: 7844583319•Fax:3000 www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Antifouling, Thinners EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! PORT ELIZABETH,BEQUIA appointed agents in appointed agentsin

[email protected] • NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • CLAMPS HOSE • NAILS • KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES KERRY’S MARINESERVICES McCOY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT M MARINE SERVICE Quality Services&theBestPrices LULLEY‘S TACKLEL SHOP E-mail: [email protected] SNORKELING &SCUBADIVINGGEARS c ULLE EMAIL: [email protected] TEL: (784)458-3420/485-6255T N COY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCE EL: (784)458-3420 O

FUEL ICE WATER FRONT ST,BEQUIAISLANDF RKELIN E-mail: [email protected] E Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 Tel: (784)530-8123/570-7612 PHONE: 1(784)5328006 RONT ST,BEQUIAISLAND # 1CHOICEINFISHING& -mail: lulley KINGFISHER intheCaribbean FAX: (784)458-3797 FAX: (784)458-379 Y‘ C UNION ISLAND U H S VHF68“KMS” Mooringsavailable • Refrigeration • Welding/Electrical • Diesel/Outboardrepair Mechanical Service G NI O

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NEW Property ManagementonCarriacou & enjoy a light lunch and cocktail or a BBQ at night. & enjoyalightlunchandcocktailorBBQ atnight. Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 [email protected] oroffthepremises ortakeaway. Try ourSmoothies! Enjoy ourpopularBaguetteSandwichesmadetoorder on Steaks, Baguettesbaked freshly every day. Seafood, Shrimp, Prawns, smoked &fresh Salmon, Fish, Lamb, Cheese, Cream, Juices etc. Great selectionofColdMeats, Salami, Turkey, Prosciutto, bilge pumps, varnish&much more. We are alsosituatedinCalliaqua, St. Vincent 4562987 Pull up your dinghy on the sand right next to it upyourdinghyonthesandrightnexttoit Pull Call uson toyouryacht service VHF forourdelivery The Pink & Blue Place on Hillsborough Beach. The Pink&BluePlaceonHillsboroughBeach. i for Restaurants, Hotels, Villas orsimply toenjoy athome. e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& Provisioning for Yacht Charters, largeorsmallorders or contactCarolyn Alexanderat Bequia - Port Elizabeth Port - Bequia p For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: MARKET PLACEAD filters, nuts &bolts, impellers, YOUR

Beach Bar&Bistro on Carriacou! Carriacou RealEstateLtd Experience our friendly service asalways!Experience ourfriendlyservice e Hillsborough, Carriacou Land andhousesforsale THIS COULDBE r Danish chefinthehouse! www.carriacou.net

Rigging, Lifelines Tel (473)410-4216 M Situatedjustbelow Coco’s Restaurant Tel: 4583485• VHF 68 frozen &cannedfoods a

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o n : i t a e & SNORKEL GEAR & SNORKEL GEAR c r n e u o n a h t n OUTDOOR CLOTHING OUTDOOR CLOTHING s p Book it now: PM Mon - Sat 8.30am - 5.00pm o e YOUR e C l r

. I e Didier and Maria THIS COULD BE TTelephone: 0596 74 60 89 F w - 11 I w Saturday by appointment MARKET PLACE AD WWIFI Connection for our Guests AM wwww.restaurant-mangobay.com tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 or contact your local island agent & Sunday morning & Sunday [email protected] located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Opening Hours Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) from 7 Voiles Assistance Tel: + 596 596 66 67 88 Port de Plaisance - Nouvelle Extension - Le Marin Port de Plaisance - Nouvelle [email protected] continued on next page      I  L S P E H C H A N D R                       F  D  P  E T F R D A P C  E  T D R N A I C W  S D E Watermakers N L I B W A M Marine Electrics S U G S [email protected] A N [email protected] L O F # Installation / Repair Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 I I R N G G G Le Marin, Martinique Shipchandler, Artimer Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 + (596) 596 650 Tel: Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA grenada • jewelry • jewelry

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just steps from the carenage Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean [email protected] for your boat, home + friends Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: www.neilprydesails.com young street st. george's • rare exotic arts + crafts Engineering, fabrication and

welding. Fabrication and repair of TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising. Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 St. Lucia GGOLDEN

For &information reservations Tel: (758)450-9792 ST. LUCIA &BARBADOS RRODNEY [email protected] Lovely BeachfrontHomesandLand, Call (758)452-0147or720-8432 Waterfront HomeswithPrivate Dock, Email: [email protected] or machining&fabrication Rodney BayBoatyard,GrosIslet,St.Lucia All PropertyPricesarenegotiable TWO BEDROOM O Fabrication of pulpits, stanchions, davits, chainplates, chainplates, davits, stanchions, pulpits, of Fabrication Tel: (758)485-0665or384-0665 Tel: (758)714-7790or284-1435 Specialistinwelding, LawrenceLimCheeYung Condominiums, Villas andHotels L O SSAILS Genuine localand internationalcuisine D ManagingDirector e-mail: [email protected] BBAY Rodney BayMarina, aka‘Chinaman’. APARTMENT Rebuild and repair all types of machinery of types all repair and Rebuild A US$30.00pernight E anchor brackets, solar panel, arches & more & arches panel, solar brackets, anchor D N FOR RENT A right in the heart ofGrosright intheheart Islet I

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Sail repairs,biminis, Tel: (758)452-8648or awnings, newsails, E cockpit cushions, Agents forDoyle, rigging, splicing, S Furlex &Profurl (758) 584-0291 T Call KENNY A U R A N T

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BBAR A R “TryKaren’sspecialYachtCrewMassage” L'Essence Massage Diploma inMassage/SPATherapyfromSweden Rodney BayMarina,Tel:(758)715-4661 [email protected] www.cirexpresslogistics.com E-Mail: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +1(305)515-8388 Tel/Fax: +(599)544-3276 Packages Pick–upcall: Karen O.Roberts St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress and deliver doorto continuedonnextpage APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 : Compass or email: …and more! Diesel Fuel and DON’T before after ST. MAARTEN ST. the Caribbean Boater Grenada is ‘Water Wonderful’! Read in Next Turtle Watching in Union Island LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT NEW AFTER- MARKET LOWER UNITS www.spotlessstainless.com Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Makes Stainless Steel Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. [email protected] Available at Island Water World or World at Island Water Available Month’s BUY FOR LESS THAN HALF BUY FOR LESS THE PRICE OF OEM. CALL 011 599 587 7469 for a price CALL 011 599 587 7469 for   #   #     #   #   AFTERMARKET UNITS FOR: LOWER • MERCURY • YAMAHA • EVINRUDE ALPHA ONE • MERCRUISER 2 • GENERATION • BRAVO

, a 1985 Tayana 37. for me to come back to Coqui [Editor’s note: Since Luis’s S/V Coqui On January 14th the claims pro- He also wanted to know if I had veyors in Santa Marta. He also indi- cated that, in the interest of quick progress of my claim, that I should submit copies of the reports made to the authorities both of the distress prior to the fire and the fire event itself. He also asked for the names and contact information for the offi- cers to whom reports were made or who responded; I provided all of this information within days. cessing agent advised me that he was trying to get a marine surveyor/ marine architect to make the trip from Trinidad to Santa Marta with him and would arrive January 20th. identified any competent repairers in the Santa Marta area or had found what it might cost to tow the vessel to a port in the ABCs or Panama for repairs. I responded that Santa Marta had neither the facilities to haul a sailboat nor a place to store it. Through my marine agent we sur- veyed the local marine mechanical and electrical tradesmen and found none with experience in sailboat sys- tems. The only viable location in …Fire Aboard

is in Club Naútico, Cartagena undergoing repairs. Coqui . Compass Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean . I showed him all of the damaged areas, he took some pictures. I asked if a surveyor would be sent at a Continued from page 22 Continued from page 22 Coqui I knew I would need a survey so I started to ask around to see what was available. That is when I found out that I knew I would need a survey so I started to ask around — About a week after the fire I was asked by the Port Captain to meet with him to provide a deposition required by About a week after the fire I was asked by the Port Captain Captain’s office proceeded to examine the damage. After A few days later a local marine engineer sent by the Port company that handles claims for the insurance company. On January 11, 2010, I heard from a claims processing On January 16th I heard from the claims processing representative that no surveyor or marine engineer would On January 16th I heard from the claims processing representative that no surveyor or marine engineer would dam- I could not believe what I had just heard. How could anyone make accurate determinations of the extent of is I was also asked to submit a survey describing the damages and estimated costs for repairs. In Colombia, that Then I was advised by my marine agent that the Colombian equivalent to Customs and Internal Revenue (DIAN) PANIC! I knew that if I had to leave for 180 days, as required, there would be no To be continued in next month’s Luis Blondet has single-handed in the East Caribbean and onto Colombia since 1998 on He says, “I have additional information concerning immigration, customs, and local practices that readers headed He says, “I have additional information concerning immigration, customs, and local practices that readers headed Santa Marta is a commercial port and there are no facilities to handle private vessels. Santa Marta is a commercial port and there are no facilities the area much more yacht-friendly.] experience, the IGY Marina Santa Marta has opened, making law as to the cause of the fire: an official inquiry and an inspection of the vessel were required to establish if the law as to the cause of the fire: an official inquiry and was determined that the fire was caused by reasons other fire had been accidental or caused by crew error. If it to heavy fines. than accident, the vessel and captain would be subject been caused by an electrical short circuit at the autopilot about two hours, we agreed that the fire seemed to have on fire, which then spread. The inspector’s final report control unit and had set five heavy-duty offshore lifejackets indicated that the fire was caused by accident. Ivan in 2004 in Grenada and both these companies (Both shall remain unnamed. I had lost a boat to Hurricane noted my comment on the unavailability of sur- handled the loss with extremely good service.) The representative Colombia for repairs would be Cartagena. We also contacted a commercial marine towing company who wanted Colombia for repairs would be Cartagena. We also contacted a commercial marine towing company who wanted to cost US$41,000 to tow the vessel to Cartagena, which is about 110 nautical miles away. We did not inquire as for towing to the ABCs or Panama. us be with him. I wondered why bother to come without the proper staff. When he arrived I had a local boat take to later date and I was told that their subject-matter experts would make a determination of repair and replacement costs from the photos I had submitted and those he took that day. age and the cost of repairs from just looking at photographs? marine easier said than done. I did a search on Google and found two individuals in Cartagena claiming to be any surveyors. Attempts to contact by telephone were not successful. I finally contacted one who could not provide do the information concerning his qualifications and experience but wanted US$1,000 to come to Rodadero to a bit survey. I knew by then that total travel expenses for such a trip would be about 180,000 Colombia pesos or under US$100. I did not get back to him. would was requiring that I do a temporary importation of my sailboat as there was no known date when the vessel the leave Rodadero. The required paperwork and DIAN visit to the vessel was completed and the vessel was given I went number of days to stay in the country that Immigration (DAS) had given me on my passport. In late June, to DAS to renew my tourist visa and was told that my 180 days would expire on July 7th. because DIAN would have impounded the boat as contraband due to my failure to renew the temporary importation… for Colombia may find of use. Readers may reach me by email at [email protected] or [email protected].” Luis currently lives in Barranquilla, Colombia and The power switch was fried, and ‘there was smoke, water and extinguisher residue covering every surface below decks’ APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 2009 HUNTER45DS239.000US Exclusive 435.000US, 3947 Grenada MarineTel:(473)405- documented locatedat needs work,wellequipped& GIBSEA 33 com/belize location-catamaran-antilles. Lying MartiniqueDétailswww. BELIZE 43,2005 [email protected] row. USD189,999E-mail for youtostartcruisingtomor- located inTrinidad.Ready out theCaribbeanandnow maintained. Sailedthrough- pit, singleowner,lovingly CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE (596) 696907429 Email [email protected]: OFFER!! LyingStLucia. US$179,000 orMAKEUSAN www.freewebs.com/venus46forsale Generator &more.Fullspecsat Air-Con, SolarPanels,Wind Pilot, EPIRB,SSB,WaterMaker, cruiser. GPS,RADAR,VHF,Auto 2007, excellentliveaboardand fiberglass, vgc,newengine YOUNG SUN46ftVENUS1984KETCH Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 55.000 US 1999 BAVARIA38Caribic 1987 IRWIN44119.500US 1986 OYSTER43535.000GBP 1982 CATALINA3219.000US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER arao aon arao 7 MP 34 Carriacou St.Maarten 45 MP 38 CIRExpress St. St.Lucia 22 MP Chateau MygoRestaurant St.Maarten Guadeloupe Carriacou Maroon 35 40 Trinidad Martinique26/MP Caribe Composite Caribbean PropellersLtd. UnionIsland Canada Trinidad 6 Caribbean MarineElectrical MP Caribbean Yachts 31 2 Tortola Caraibe Greement Maarten 41 Carib Power SintMaarten Grenada 5 Captain Gourmet Mustique Bequia MP Canada Metals Camper &Nicholsons MP Trinidad MP MP BVI YachtSales Trinidad Business DevelopmentCo. Grenada MP Budget Marine 20 Bequia Venture 36 PetiteMartinique Antigua Trinidad Bay IslandYachts 24 St.Lucia Basil’s Bar St.Vincent Barrow Sails&Canvas 13 Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Curacao 25 Art Fabrik Art &Design Antigua ARC Dynamic Grenada Antigua ClassicRegatta Akwaba Martinique Adventure HighSchool ABC Marine MP E-mail [email protected] BOATS FORSALE 1988 Centercock- , 2006 BAHIA 46 , 2006BAHIA46 , Pricenegotiable, , 175,000Euros.

[email protected] Lying Bequia,DetailsE-mail PRIVILEGE 37,1996 [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail at IslandWaterWorld only US$3,555.AskforBen deck andseatbench,pay 13’ Skiff.Brandnew E-mail [email protected] Trinidad Tel:(868)650-1914 sailing catamaran,Loafer. 54FT 40PASSENGERDayCharter [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail Ben atIslandWaterWorld special, US$19,999.Askfor boarding ladder.Turnkey hydraulic steeringand with EvinrudeE-TEC90hp, boat, centerconsoleRIB FLEXBOAT SR500LX, www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD Craig’s List Craig’s ListorCaribbean 0447 SeeVirginIslands St ThomasTel:(340)513- ready tosail$28,000,lying EDEL 33CATAMARAN1985, [email protected] World Tel:(599)544-5310 Ask forBenatIslandWater turn keyspecial,US$26,000. well, T-TopEvinrudeE-TEC90hp. Unsinkable, brandnew,fish CAROLINA SKIFF17.8DLV, Tel: (607)216-5692 E-mail [email protected] John, USVI.US$5,000OBO. live aboard/cruiser.LyingSt haul out,customsails.Good engine. Wellrigged.Recent Sloop “LadyHoppy”,inboard GILES 28.5’ 1950 PETERWOLF/LAURENT Classic Wooden ol abu Atga MP 37 MP St.Croix 22 Antigua MP Bequia 48 St.Lucia 36 Grenada Kerry MarineServices SintMaarten MP 29 8 Jones Maritime MP UK38/39 Jolly Harbour Johnson Hardware Bequia Grenada Island WaterWorld Grenada Bequia St.Lucia Island Dreams MP Iolaire Enterprises 30 31 Insurance Consultants Grenadines Sails Caribbean Grenada Marine Gourmet Foods Bequia 4 Golden Taste USA 18 Free CruisingGuides 37 9 Fernando's Hideaway International Electropics Trinidad MP Tortola 30 28 Edward WilliamInsurance 24 9 Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial 23 Doyle's Guides C/W Carriacou MP St.Maarten MP Doyle OffshoreSails Dominica Curaçao Down IslandRealEstate Dominica MarineCenter USA Trinidad Martinique Dockwise Transport Diginav Martinique Diesel Outfitters Curaçao Marine Crews InnMarina Cooper Marine Clippers Ship 37 Show , front E-mail E-mail

www.northernrockiesassociates.com INSTRUMENTS TACKTICK WIRELESS/SOLAR bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS Tel (758)4528531 [email protected] vane bestoffer Aries Circumnavigatorwind offer, 10ftValliantRIBUS890, US 250,Yanmar3HM35Fbest Barlow, Barient,Lewmarfrom 22" fromUS200,Winches, Sail boatprops3blade13"to Tohatsu 30HPlongshaftUS2000, (340) 244-0605,(401)965-1284 $275. radarreflector,$50.Tel: boom vang,fits45'-50'boat. pitch. $225.Garhauerhard left rotationx19"diam19" $350. Sailboat3bladeprop, 1@ 45'longand51'long rail, 23/8"widex11/2"high lengths hardblackrubberrub new) $3,000forpair.New,2 able fora45'-60'boat($7,000 tailing winches.Thesearesuit- BOAT STUFF [email protected] price. USD1600.E- brand new,unused,half ANCHOR. WASI 60KGSTAINLESS361 650-1914 [email protected] OUTBOARD 36hp YANMARDIESEL Tel: (340)344-3039 BTU $700eachOBO. type airconditioners,13500 Marine SeaMach,Hatch 470 hours$11,000.2Coleman remote start,exhaustparts, complete soundshield,digital 13KW Model#13-EOAD,with KOHLER MARINEGENERATOR, Tel: (473)443-6324/420-3200 7ft. Beam,200hpYamaha 25ft WOODSPEEDBOAT [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail for BenatIslandWaterWorld Turn keyspecial,US$9,999Ask deck andseatbench,bimini. console, E-TEC40hpfront 1 5’ Skiff.Brandnew saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou ☛ MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib-

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ed CASIMIR HOFFMANN CASIMIR APRIL 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 

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