Washington, DC 7

Plan Your Trip 12 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Washington, DC

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Karla Zimmerman Virginia Maxwell Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to Top Itineraries...... 16 Eating...... 29 Washington, DC ...... 4 If You Like...... 18 Drinking & Nightlife..36 Washington, DC’s Month By Month...... 21 Entertainment...... 40 Top 10...... 6 Like a Local...... 24 Shopping...... 43 What’s New...... 13 For Free...... 26 Sports & Activities....45 Need to Know...... 14 With Kids...... 47

Explore Washington, DC 52

Neighborhoods South DC...... 104 Columbia Heights...... 165 at a Glance...... 54 Downtown Upper Northwest DC...186 National Mall...... 56 & Penn Quarter...... 128 Northern Virginia...... 195 White House Area Dupont Circle & Foggy Bottom...... 76 & Kalorama ...... 143 Day Trips from Washington, DC...... 208 Georgetown...... 92 Adams Morgan...... 156 Sleeping...... 224 Capitol Hill & Logan Circle, U Street &

Understand Washington, DC 237 Washington, History...... 240 Architecture...... 259 DC Today...... 238 Arts & Media...... 254 Politics...... 262

Survival Guide 267

Transportation...... 268 Directory A–Z ...... 273 Index...... 280

Washington, DC Maps 292 SEAN PAVONE / SHUTTERSTOCK © CHANSAK JOE / SHUTTERSTOCK © s t , h e g l i & &

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Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

National Mall (p56) Capitol Hill & South DC (p104) M You might as well dive right into the M Do the government thing this good stuff, and the Lincoln Memo- morning. Start in the Capitol and rial is about as iconically DC as it gets. It’s tour the statue-cluttered halls. Then walk also a convenient starting point, since Abe across the street and up the grand steps to sits at the far end of the Mall. Next up as the Supreme Court; hopefully you’ll get you walk east is the powerful Vietnam to hear a case argument. The Library of Veterans Memorial. Then comes the Congress and its 500 miles of books blow Washington Monument, which is pretty minds next door. hard to miss, being DC’s tallest structure and all. Lunch Have a burger amid politicos at Old Ebbitt Grill (p86). Lunch Munch sandwiches by an artsy waterfall at Cascade Café (p75). White House Area & Foggy Bottom (p76) National Mall (p56) Hopefully you planned ahead and After lunch, it’s time to explore the R booked a White House tour. If not, R National Museum of African make do at the White House Visitor American History and Culture (assuming Center. Pop into the Round Robin to see you’ve procured a ticket) or the National if any bigwigs and lobbyists are clinking Gallery of Art. Pick a side: East, for mod- glasses. Zip over to the Kennedy Center ern; or West, for Impressionists and other to watch the free 6pm show. classics. Afterward, mosey across the lawn to the National Air and Space Museum and gape at the stuff hanging from the ceil- Dinner Have French fare at Chez Billy ing. The missiles and the Wright Brothers’ Sud (p97) or pizza at Il Canale (p97). original plane are incomparably cool. Georgetown (p92) Dinner Hop the Metro to Bistrot du After dinner, sink a pint in a friendly Coin (p149) in Dupont Circle. N pub like the Tombs. On warm nights the outdoor cafes and boating action make Dupont Circle & Kalorama (p143) Georgetown Waterfront Park a hot spot. Dupont parties in the evening. Sip And check if anyone groovy is playing at N cocktails at Bar Charley, hoist Blues Alley. brews with locals at Board Room or hit one of the dance clubs. 17 ORHANCAM /SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Arlington National Cemetery p197

Day Three Day Four e Top I ti

Northern Virginia (p195) Upper Northwest DC (p186) n Walking around If you have kids, get to the M Arlington M National r National Cemetery you can’t Zoo. Even without kids, the zoo ari help but be moved, from the Tomb of the entertains thanks to its giant pandas e

Unknown Soldier’s dignified guards to and brainy orangutans. Earmark some s John F Kennedy’s eternal flame. One quality time for Washington National Metro stop south, the Pentagon offers Cathedral and its Darth Vader gargoyle, another affecting memorial to those who moon rock and Helen Keller’s ashes, died in the September 11, 2001, attacks. among other esoteric offerings.

Lunch Treat yourself at Central Michel Lunch 2 Amys (p191) serves excellent Richard (p138) or Rasika (p137). thin-crust pizzas, antipasti and craft brews. Downtown & Penn Quarter (p128) It’s an abundance of riches Adams Morgan (p156) R downtown. See the Declaration of Adams Morgan is Washington’s Independence at the National Archives, R party zone, but during the day and the seat where Lincoln was shot at Meeps and Idle Time Books provide Ford’s Theatre. The Reynolds Center plenty to do. Plus you’re well situated for for American Art & Portraiture hangs happy hour at Songbyrd Record Cafe & sublime paintings. The Newseum has Music House, a cool retro bar. the Unabomber’s cabin. You’ll have to make some hard choices about which Dinner Share Mediterranean small sights to visit. plates at Tail Up Goat (p161).

Dinner Seek out Compass Rose (p172) National Mall (p56) for a romantic global taste-trip. End in the ’hood where you began N your Washington trip, but experi- Logan Circle, U Street ence it from a different perspective. Walk & Columbia Heights (p165) along Constitution Ave from east to west. Mosey around 14th St and U St NW, The dramatically lit monuments glow N and there’s nightlife galore. Sip ethereally at night. Climb the steps of the beneath the Elizabeth Taylor mural at Lincoln Memorial and turn around for free-spirited Dacha Beer Garden, split one last, long fantastic view. That’ll do it, your eardrums at the rock-and-roll Black until you and DC meet again. Cat, or grab a beer at neighborhood favorite Right Proper Brewing Co. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 278

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Karla Zimmerman Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Deep appreciation to all of the locals who spilled the BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the beans on their favorite places. Special thanks to Kate Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Armstrong, Virginia Maxwell, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Amy Schwenkmeyer and Bill Brockschmidt. Thanks Illustrations p64-5 & p80-1 by Javier Zarracina most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for- Cover photograph: Statue of Thomas Jefferson, life, who kindly indulges my Abe Lincoln fixation. You Jefferson Memorial, Holly Looney / AWL © top my Best List. Virginia Maxwell Thanks to DC locals Barbara Balman and Bob Bresnahan for their convivial company and insider tips; to Trisha Ping for giving me the gig and supply- ing interesting leads; to DC expert Karla Zimmerman; and to traveling companions Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. At home in Australia, thanks and much love to Peter Handsaker, who coped with apartment renovation chaos and didn’t blame me for my absence (well, not too much). 279

Destination Editor Trisha Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, THIS BOOK Ping Alison Morris, Rosie Nichol- This 7th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors son, Charlotte Orr, Monique Planet’s Washington, DC Kate Mathews, Vicky Smith Perrin, Simon Williamson guidebook was researched Product Editor Amanda Cover Researcher Nicholas and written by Karla Colicchia

Williamson SCENES THE BEHIND Zimmerman and Virginia Mark Thanks to Steen Ballegaard, Maxwell, with contributions Senior Cartographers Griffiths, Alison Lyall Imogen Bannister, James by Amy Balfour. The previ- Hardy, PST, Ross Taylor, Rob Virginia ous two editions were also Book Designer Vine, Brana Vladisavljevic, Moreno written by Karla and Regis Sheila Wilson St Louis. This guidebook was Assisting Editors Jacque- produced by the following: line Danam, Emma Gibbs, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 280 See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P287 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P288 3 ENTERTAINMENT P289

7 SHOPPING P289

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P290 Index 4 SLEEPING P290

11th Street Bridge Park 115 Adams Morgan 55, 156-64, Annapolis 214-16 Smithsonian Institution 6, 310-11, 158-9 accommodations 216 13, 26, 66-9, 202, 276, accommodations 226, food 215 7, 67, 68-9, see also A 234-5 individual museums accommodations 13, 15, sights 214-15 drinking & nightlife 157, Studio Gallery 147 224-36, see also sports & activities 215-16 162-3 Touchstone Gallery 136 Sleeping subindex transportation 214 entertainment 163 Art Museum of the Americas Adams Morgan 234-5 Appalachian Trail Conserv- food 157, 160-2 27, 82 Capitol Hill & South DC ancy (Harpers Ferry) 218 arts 254-8 229-30 highlights 156, 156 aquariums arts centers Downtown & Penn itineraries 157 National Aquarium Quarter 230-1 shopping 157, 163-4 (Baltimore) 210 Atlas Performing Arts Center 124 Dupont Circle & sights 160 architecture 259-61, see BloomBars 180 Kalorama 231-4 transportation 157 also row houses District of Columbia Arts Georgetown 228-9 African American Civil War Embassy Row 145, 260, Center 160 Logan Circle, U Street Memorial 167 145 Edlavitch DC Jewish & Columbia Heights African American Civil War Masonic 146, 259 Community Center 154 235-6 Museum 167 area codes 276 Kennedy Center 27, Northern Virginia 236 Air Force Memorial 199 Arlington , see also 318-19 90, 26 Upper Northwest DC 236 airplane-spotting 25 Northern Virginia Mexican Cultural Institute White House Area & airports Arlington House 199 180 Foggy Bottom 227-8 Baltimore/Washington Arlington National Cemetery THEARC 115 activities 21-3, 25, 45-6, see International Thurgood 11, 17, 197, 11, 17, 197 ATMs 274 also Sports & Marshall Airport 269 art galleries 19, see also Activities subindex, Dulles International museums individual Airport 268-9 Art Museum of the neighborhoods B Ronald Reagan Americas 27, 82 Baltimore 210-14 boating 75, 101, 194, 217 Washington National Corcoran School of the accommodations 213-14 cycling 101, 126-7, 206-7, Airport 268 Arts & Design 89 drinking & nightlife 213 217 Albert Einstein Memorial 85 Dupont Underground entertainment 213 golf 127, 183 Alexandria , see also 146-7 315 food 212-13 hiking 101, 127, 190, 217, Northern Virginia Foundry Gallery 167 218, 222-3 sights 210-12 Alexandria Archaeology Fridge 124-5 horseback riding 190, 194 transportation 210 Museum 201 Hirshhorn Museum 71 ice skating 75, 88 Baltimore/Washington Alexandria Black History Kreeger Museum 189 kayaking 101, 127 Museum 201 International Thurgood Long View Gallery 136 Marshall Airport 269 water sports 101, 127, ambulances 273 National Gallery of Art 9, Bartholdi Park 113 194, 217 American Veterans Disabled 27, 61, 74, 261, 8 Adams Building 109 for Life Memorial 117 Basilica of the National National Museum of Shrine of the Immacu- American Visionary Art African Art 72, 74 late Conception 169 Museum (Baltimore) 212 National Museum of bathrooms 276 amusement parks Women in the Arts 27, Battery Kemble Park 190 Six Flags America 48 135-6 Battleground National Anacostia Community Phillips Collection 27, 146 Cemetery 170 Museum 115 Renwick Gallery 82 Bearface Mountain (Shenan- Anacostia Riverwalk Trail 127 Sights 000 Reynolds Center for doah National Park) 222 Map Pages 000 American Art & beer 36, see also breweries Photo Pages 000 Portraiture 131, 131 281 Belmont-Paul Women’s shopping 44 Christ Church 202 C&O Canal Towpath Equality National sports & activities 46 churches & cathedrals 94, 101 Monument 113 Basilica of the National Mount Vernon Trail Bethune Council House 167 Shrine of the Immacu- 206, 207 bicycling 25, 45, 269-70 C late Conception 169 River Riders (Harpers Anacostia Riverwalk C&O Canal National Cathedral of St Matthew Ferry) 217 Historic Park (Harpers

Trail 127 the Apostle 147 Washington & Old INDEX Ferry) 217 Big Wheel Bikes 101 Christ Church 202 Dominion Trail 206-7 C&O Canal Towpath 94, 101 Bike & Roll 126-7, 207 Metropolitan AME Capital Crescent Trail 101 Capital Crescent Trail 101 Church 147-8 Capitol 9, 27, 106-7, 5, 8, D B–D C&O Canal National Mt Zion United , dangers 275 Historic Park (Harpers 106 110 Methodist Church 96 Capitol Hill & South DC 55, Dark Hollow Falls Ferry) 217 St John’s Church 83 (Shenandoah National 104-27, 300-1 C&O Canal Towpath St Mary’s Episcopal Park) 223 94, 101 accommodations 226, Church 84 229-30 DEA Museum 199-200 Mount Vernon Trail Washington National Decatur House 82 206, 207 drinking & nightlife 105, Cathedral 188, 3, 188 121-3 demographics 239 River Riders (Harpers cinema 238, 249, 251, 254, Department of the Interior Ferry) 217 entertainment 123-4 255-6, 266 Museum 82-3 Washington & Old food 105, 117, 119-21 Civil War 244, 250 Dominion Trail 206-7 highlights 9, 104, disabilities, travelers with Civil War 243-6 276-7 Big Meadows (Shenandoah 106-9, 104 Civil War sites 192 discount cards National Park) 223 itineraries 105 Fort McHenry National Alexandria Museum bike travel 45 shopping 124, 126 Monument & Historic Pass 201 Blair House 83 sights 105, 112-17 Shrine (Baltimore) 212 Explorer Pass 273 boat travel 270 sports & activities 126-7 Fort Stevens Park 169-70 distilleries 178, see also tours 272 transportation 105 Fort Ward Museum & breweries Historic Site 201 boating walks 118, 124-5, Jos A Magnus & Co 179 , climate 15, 21-3 Fletcher’s Boathouse 118 125 New Columbia 194 Capitol Reflecting Pool 73 climate change 269-72 Distillers 178 Key Bridge Boathouse car travel 270 cocktails 37 One Eight Distilling 178 101 Carlyle House 200-1 coffee 37-8 Republic Restoratives River Riders 217 Carousel 72 Columbia Heights, 178-9 Thompson Boat Cathedral of St Matthew see Logan Circle, U District of Columbia Arts Center 101 the Apostle 147 Street & Columbia Center 160 Heights Tidal Basin 75 cathedrals, see churches & District of Columbia War books 238, 240, 243, 251, cathedrals Congressional Cemetery Memorial 73 117 253, 256-8 cell phones 14, 276 drinking & nightlife 24, Constitution Gardens 72 breweries 36, 272, see also cemeteries 36-9, 38, 36 see distilleries Arlington National Contrabands & Freedmen also breweries, distiller- Atlas Brew Works 178 Cemetery 11, 17, 197, Cemetery 201-2 ies, Drinking & Nightlife Bardo Brewing 122 11, 17, 197 Corcoran School of the subindex, individual Arts & Design 89 neighborhoods Bluejacket Brewery Battleground National 121, 36 Cemetery 170 costs 14, 201, 273, 275-6 taxes 37 DC Brau 179 Congressional accommodations 225 tipping 37 Right Proper Brewing Cemetery 117 Alexandria Museum websites 37 Co 175 Contrabands & Freed- Pass 201 Douglass, Frederick 247 Right Proper Brewing men Cemetery 201-2 entertainment 41 Downtown & Penn Quarter Co Brookland Female Union Band food 30 55, 128-42, 304-5 Production House 178 Society Cemetery 96 credit cards 274 accommodations 226, budgeting Mt Zion Cemetery 96 currency 14 230-1 accommodations 225 Oak Hill Cemetery 95 customs regulations 273 drinking & nightlife 129, entertainment 41 Charles Sumner School & cycling 25, 45, 269-70 140-1 food 30 Archives 148 Anacostia Riverwalk entertainment 129, 141-2 Bureau of Engraving & chemists 274 Trail 127 food 129, 136-40 Printing 27, 115-16 cherry blossoms 21, 132-3, Big Wheel Bikes 101 highlights 10, 128, bus travel 268-9, 270, 271 3, 23, 132-3 Bike & Roll 126-7, 207 130-1, 128 business hours 275 children, travel with 20, Capital Crescent Trail 101 itineraries 129 drinking & nightlife 37 47-51, 49 C&O Canal National shopping 142 food 30 Chinatown 136 Historic Park (Harpers sights 134-6 Ferry) 217 transportation 129 282 drugstores 274 Hawksbill Mountain ‘Duke’ Ellington 255 F G (Shenandoah National FDR Memorial Stone 135 Gadsby’s Tavern Museum Dulles International Airport Park) 222 202 268-9 Federal Bureau of Investi- Hawksbill Summit gation 135 Gallaudet University 169 Dumbarton House 95 (Shenandoah National Federal Reserve 85 gardens, see parks & Park) 222 Dumbarton Oaks 94 FedEx Field 170 gardens health insurance 273-4 INDEX INDEX Dumbarton Oaks Park 95 festivals & events 21-3 George Mason Heurich House 147 Dupont Circle & Kalorama Memorial 73-4 hiking 45 55, 143-55, 308-9 drinking & nightlife 37 food 32 George Washington Anacostia Riverwalk D–H accommodations 226, Masonic National Trail 127 231-4 Independence Day 22, Memorial 200 23, 53 Appalachian Trail 218 drinking & nightlife 144, George Washington Bearface Mountain 150-1, 153-4 Marine Corps Memorial Parkway 199 (Shenandoah National entertainment 154-5 Marathon 23 George Washington Park) 222 food 144, 148-50 National Cherry Blossom University 85 Festival 21, 132-3, 3, Big Meadows highlights 143, 145, 143 Georgetown 55, 92-101, 23, 132-3 (Shenandoah National itineraries 144 302 Park) 223 Passport DC 22 shopping 144, 155 accommodations 226, C&O Canal National Smithsonian Folklife 228-9 Historic Park sights 146-8 Festival 22, 69 drinking & nightlife 93, (Harpers Ferry) 217 transportation 144 films 238, 249, 250, 251, 98, 100 C&O Canal Towpath walks 152-3, 152 254, 255-6, 266 entertainment 100 94, 101 Dupont Underground 146-7 fire department 273 food 93, 95-8 Capital Crescent Trail 101 flims 244 highlights 92, 92 Dark Hollow Falls Foggy Bottom, see White E itineraries 93 (Shenandoah National East Potomac Park 116 House Area & Foggy Park) 223 Bottom shopping 100-1 Eastern Market 25, 126, 24 sights 93, 94-5 Harpers Ferry Town Folger Shakespeare Loop 218 economics 238-9 Library 112-13 sports & activities 101 Edgar Allan Poe House & Hawksbill Summit food 13, 25, 29-35, 33, 29, transportation 93 Museum (Baltimore) (Shenandoah National 30, 31, see also Eating walks 99, 211 99 Park) 222 subindex, individual Georgetown University electricity 273 Old Rag Mountain neighborhoods 94-5, 103 (Shenandoah National Ellington, Edward Kennedy festivals 32, 32 Park) 222 (Duke) 255 Georgetown Waterfront reservations 30 Park 94, 18, 102 Soapstone Valley Trail Ellipse 82, 276 tipping 30 Glen Echo Park 48 190 Emancipation Memorial 114 tours 272 Glover Archbold Park 190 Rock Creek Park 190 Embassy Row 145, 260, food trucks 25, 32, 31 go-go 258 Hillwood Estate, Museum & 145 Ford’s Theatre 28, 134, 245 Gardens 189 emergencies 273 golf Ford’s Theatre Center Hirshhorn Museum 71 emergency rooms 274 East Potomac Park for Education and Golf Course 127 Hirshhorn Sculpture Enid A Haupt Garden 71-2 Leadership 134-5 Langston Golf Garden 71 entertainment 27, 40-2, Fort McHenry National Course 127 historic buildings 19, 28 see also Entertainment Monument & Historic Rock Creek Golf Blair House 83 subindex, individual Shrine (Baltimore) 212 neighborhoods Course 183 Bureau of Engraving & Fort Stevens Park 169-70 Printing 27, 115-16 websites 41 government 238-9 Fort Ward Museum & Capitol 9, 27, 106-7, 5, 8, etiquette 273 Historic Site 201 106, 110 tipping 224, 275 Foundry Gallery 167 H Carlyle House 200-1 events, see festivals & Hains Point 116 Franciscan Monastery 169 Civil War Forts 192 events half-smokes 30-1 Franklin Delano Roosevelt Decatur House 82 Evergreen Museum Hammond Harwood House Memorial 70-1 Embassy Row 145, 260, (Baltimore) 212 (Annapolis) 214 Frederick Douglass 145 Exorcist Stairs 94 National Historic Site Harpers Ferry 216-18 Federal Bureau of 28, 114, 28 accommodations 218 Investigation 135 free attractions 26-8 eating & drinking 217 Federal Reserve 85 Freedom House sights 217 Ford’s Theatre 245 Museum 200 sports & activities 217 Indonesian Embassy Sights 000 Freer-Sackler Museums of transportation 216 145, 260 Asian Art 70, 74 Map Pages 000 Harpers Ferry National Jefferson Memorial 132 Friendship Firehouse Historic Park (Harpers Photo Pages 000 Lee House 83 Museum 202 Ferry) 217 283 Lee-Fendall House 202 President Lincoln’s Marine Barracks 115 Library of Congress 27, Cottage 168-9 L Marine Corps Marathon 23 Lady Bird Johnson 109, 3, 109 Storer College (Harpers markets 25, 43 Park 206 Lincoln Memorial 6, 58, Ferry) 218 Adams Morgan Farmers Lafayette Square 83 65, 6, 58 history 19, 240-53 Market 164 Lee-Fendall House 202 Luxembourg Embassy 20th century 246 Arlington Farmers Lee House 83 145 21st century 251-3 Market 206 INDEX Mansion on O Street 147 Civil Rights Movement Leesburg 218-21 Del Ray Farmers Market Marine Barracks 115 249-50 accommodations 220-1 206 Cold War 248-9 eating & drinking 219-20 Dupont Circle Market Maryland State House H–M (Annapolis) 215 establishment 241-2 sights 219 155 National Academy of independence 241 transportation 219 Eastern Market 25, Sciences 84 settlement 240 legal matters 274 126, 24 National Archives 10, 27, slavery 243 L’Enfant, Pierre Charles Flea Market 126 130, 11, 130 War of 1812 242-3 242 Old Town Farmers Market 206 National Public Radio 113 WWI 246-8 L’Enfant plan 259 Union Market 24, 174 Organization of WWII 246-8 LGBT travelers 274 American States 89 Martin Luther King Jr holidays 275 libraries Peirce Mill 191 Memorial 64, 71, 64 horseback riding Folger Shakespeare Pentagon 198 Library 112-13 Martin Luther King Jr Rock Creek Park 190 Scottish Rite Temple 146 Library of Congress 27, Memorial Library 135 Ross Creek Park Horse Mary McLeod Bethune Smithsonian Castle 64, Center 194 109, 3, 109 73, , Memorial 114 64 67 Howard University 167 Martin Luther King Jr State Department 84 Memorial Library 135 Maryland Historical Society (Baltimore) 211 Supreme Court 112, 111 Lincoln, Abraham I 243-4, 245 Maryland State House Surratt House Site (Annapolis) 215 (Wok & Roll) 136 ice skating 75, 88 Lincoln Memorial 6, 58, Independence Day 22, 65, 6, 58 Master Armorer’s House Turkish Ambassador’s (Harpers Ferry) 217 Residence 145 23, 53 Lincoln Park 114 McMillan plan 259-60 Union Station 113 Indonesian Embassy 145 literature 238, 240, 243, McPherson Square 84 US Capitol 9, 27, 106-7, 5, insurance 273-4 251, 253, 256-8 media 258, 264, 275 8, 106, 110 International Spy Museum local life 24-5 medical services 274 Washington Convention 13, 116, 50 Logan Circle, U Street & Center 136 internet access 274 Columbia Heights 55, memorials & monuments 18-19 Watergate Complex 84 Islamic Center 191 165-83, 312-13 African American Civil White House 9, 27, 78-81 itineraries 16-17, see accommodations 226, 235, 235-6 War Memorial 167 White House 80-1 also individual drinking & nightlife 166, Air Force Memorial 199 White House 9, 78, 80-1 neighborhoods 175, 177-9 Albert Einstein William Paca House & Ivy City 178 entertainment 166, 179, Memorial 85 Garden (Annapolis) 181-3 American Veterans 215 J food 166, 170-4 Disabled for Life Historic Ships in Baltimore Jefferson Memorial 72, 132 Memorial 117 (Baltimore) 210 highlights 12, 165, 165, John Brown Museum District of Columbia War historic sites 28 itineraries 166 (Harpers Ferry) 217 Memorial 73 shopping 183 Arlington House 199 Emancipation Belmont-Paul Women’s sights 167-70 Memorial 114 Equality National K sports & activities 183 FDR Memorial Stone 135 Monument 113 Kahlil Gibran Memorial transportation 166 Fort McHenry National Garden 191 Bethune Council walk 176, 180-1, 176, 180 Monument & Historic House 167 Kalorama, see Dupont Long View Gallery 136 Shrine 212 Circle & Kalorama Ford’s Theatre 134 Loudoun Wine Trail 220 Franklin Delano kayaking 45 Frederick Douglass Luray Caverns Roosevelt Memorial National Historic Site Ballpark Boathouse 127 (Shenandoah National 70-1 28, 114, 28 Kenilworth Aquatic Park) 221-2 George Mason Master Armorer’s House Gardens 168 Luxembourg Embassy 145 Memorial 73-4 (Harpers Ferry) 217 Kennedy Center 27, 90, 26 George Washington Mount Vernon 209 Korean War Veterans Masonic National Oatlands Historic House Memorial 73 M Memorial 200 & Gardens (Leesburg) Kreeger Museum 189 Madison Building 109 George Washington 219 K Street 83-4 Malcolm X Park 174 Memorial Parkway 199 Petersen House 135 Mansion on O Street 147 Jefferson Memorial 72 284 memorials & monuments Mount Vernon Trail 206, John Brown Museum Society of the continued 207 (Harpers Ferry) 217 Cincinnati 147 Korean War Veterans murals 258 Kreeger Museum 13 Stabler-Leadbeater Memorial 73 Museum of the Bible 116 Maryland Historical Apothecary Lincoln Memorial 6, 58, museums 19-20, 27, see Society (Baltimore) Museum 200 65, 6, 58 also art galleries 211 Star-Spangled Banner Flag House & 1812 INDEX INDEX Martin Luther King Jr African American Civil Museum of the Bible 116 Memorial 64, 71, 64 War Museum 167 National Air and Space Museum (Baltimore) 211 Mary McLeod Bethune Alexandria Archaeology Museum 13, 60, 74, Memorial 114 Museum 201 60, 64, 68 Steven F Udvar-Hazy M–N Center 202 National Japanese Alexandria Black History National Archives 10, 27, American Museum 201 130, 11, 130 Textile Museum 84 Memorial 114 American Visionary Art National Building Tudor Place 94 National Law Museum (Baltimore) Museum 134 United States Holocaust Enforcement Officers 212 National Geographic Memorial Museum 27, Memorial 135 Anacostia Community Museum 146 108, 111 National WWII Museum 115 National Great Blacks Walters Art Museum Memorial 72-3 Art Museum of the in Wax Museum (Baltimore) 211 Navy Memorial & Naval Americas 82 (Baltimore) 211 Woodrow Wilson House Heritage Center 135 Bureau of Engraving & National Inventors Hall 146 Pentagon Memorial 198 Printing 27, 115-16 of Fame & Museum music 40, 254-5 Reflecting Pool 73 Charles Sumner School 200 & Archives 148 National Museum of Signers’ Memorial 72 N Daughters of the African American Taft Memorial National Academy of American Revolution History and Culture Carillon 113 Sciences 84 Museum 82 59, 65, 65 Vietnam Veterans National Air and Space Memorial 10, 62, 65, DEA Museum 199-200 National Museum of American History 70, Museum 13, 60, 74, 60, 10, 65 Department of the Inte- 74, 64, 68 Washington Monument rior Museum 82-3 50 National Museum of National Aquarium 12, 63, 65, 3, 12 Dumbarton House 95 American Jewish (Baltimore) 210 Dumbarton Oaks 94 Washington Monument Military History 148 National Archives 10, 27, (Baltimore) 211 Edgar Allan Poe House & National Museum of 130, 11, 130 Museum (Baltimore) Women’s Titanic Health and Medicine National Building Museum 211 Memorial 116 168 134 Evergreen Museum Meridian Hill Park 167, 174 National Museum of National Cherry Blossom (Baltimore) 212 Metro 268-9, 270-1 Natural History 70, 74, Festival 21, 132-3, 3, Ford’s Theatre Center for Metropolitan AME Church 47, 67 23, 132-3 147-8 Education and Leadership 134-5 National Museum of National Gallery of Art 9, Mexican Cultural Institute Natural History 27, 61, 74, 261, 8 180 Frederick Douglass Butterfly Pavilion National Historic Site National Gallery of Art Middleburg 218-21 27, 70 Sculpture Garden 65, 71 28, 114, 28 accommodations 220-1 National Museum of the National Geographic Freedom House American Indian 73, 74 eating & drinking 219-20 Museum 200 Museum 146 sights 219 National Postal Museum National Great Blacks in Freer-Sackler Museums 112, 275 transportation 219 of Asian Art 70, 74 Wax Museum National Sporting (Baltimore) 211 mobile phones 14, 276 Friendship Firehouse Museum (Middleburg) National Harbor 48 monasteries 169 Museum 202 219 money 14, 201, 273, 274-5 Gadsby’s Tavern National Inventors Hall of Nature Center & Fame & Museum 200 food 30 Museum 202 Planetarium 190 National Japanese money changers 274-5 Hammond Harwood Naval Academy Museum American Memorial 114 monuments, see House (Annapolis) 214 (Annapolis) 214 National Law Enforcement memorials & Heurich House 147 Newseum 134 Officers Memorial 135 monuments Hillwood Estate, Museum Octagon Museum 83 National Mall 55, 56-75, mosques 191 & Gardens 189 Saint John Paul II 64-5, 294, 64-5, see motorcycle travel 270 Hirshhorn Museum 13, 71 National Shrine 169 also individual sights Historic Ships in Mount Vernon 209, 209 Smithsonian Institution entertainment 75 Baltimore (Baltimore) 6, 13, 26, 66-9, 202, 210 food 74-5 276, 7, 67, 68-9, highlights 6, 9, 10, 12, 56, International Spy see also individual Sights 000 58-65, Museum 13, 116, 50 museums 56 Map Pages 000 history 265 Photo Pages 000 285 itineraries 57 Jefferson Rock (Harpers shopping 44 pets 232 museums 57 Ferry) 218 sports & activities 46 Petworth 182 parks & gardens 57 Luray Caverns Organization of American pharmacies 274 shopping 57, 74 (Shenandoah National States 89 Phillips Collection 27, 146 Park) 221-2 sights 70-4 outdoor art, see public art planning The Point (Harpers sports & activities 75 Ferry) 217 accommodations 15 INDEX INDEX transportation 57 Nature Center & P budgeting 14, 201, 273 National Museum of Planetarium 190 parks & gardens 19 festivals & events 21-3 African American Naval Academy Museum 11th Street Bridge free attractions 26-8 History and Culture 59, (Annapolis) 214 Park 115 highlights 6-12 N–S 65, 65 Navy Memorial & Naval Bartholdi Park 113 itineraries 16-17 National Museum of Heritage Center 135 Battery Kemble Park 190 local life 24-5 African Art 72, 74 neighborhoods 32, 41, 43, Constitution Gardens 72 repeat visitors 13 National Museum of 45, 49, 54-5, 54 American History 70, Dumbarton Oaks 94 travel seasons 15, 21-3 Blagden Alley 13, 141 74, 50 Dumbarton Oaks Park 95 travel to/from 15 Chinatown 136 National Museum of East Potomac Park 116 travel within 15 American Jewish Embassy Row 145, 260, Ellipse 82, 276 Washington, DC’s Military History 148 145 Enid A Haupt Garden basics 14-15 National Museum of Health H Street 122 71-2 Washington, DC’s and Medicine 168 Hains Point 116 Fort Stevens Park 169-70 neighborhoods National Museum of Ivy City 13, 178 Georgetown Waterfront 54-5, 54 Natural History 70, 74, K Street 83-4 Park 94, 18, 102 websites 14-15 47, 67 Navy Yard 13 Glen Echo Park 48 police 273 National Museum of Petworth 182 Glover Archbold Park politics 20, 27, 238-9, Natural History Southwest Waterfront 190 262-6 Butterfly Pavilion 27, 70 114 Hillwood Estate, Museum pop culture 20 National Museum of the & Gardens 189 population 239 American Indian 73, 74 U Street Corridor 12, 12 Wharf, the 13, 114 Hirshhorn Sculpture postal services 275 National Museum of Garden 71 Women in the Arts 27, Newseum 134 President Lincoln’s Cottage 135-6 newspapers 258, 275 Kahlil Gibran Memorial 168-9 Garden 191 national parks & reserves nightlife, see drinking & public art 258 nightlife Kenilworth Aquatic Hirshhorn Sculpture C&O Canal National Gardens 168 Historic Park Northern Virginia 55, Garden 71 Lady Bird Johnson Park (Harpers Ferry) 217 195-207, 315, 318-9 murals 172 206 C&O Canal Towpath accommodations public holidays 275 94, 101 226, 236 Lincoln Park 114 Harpers Ferry National drinking & nightlife 196, Malcolm X Park 174 Historic Park 204-5 Meridian Hill Park 167-8, R radio 275 (Harpers Ferry) 217 entertainment 205-6 174 Reflecting Pool 73 Old Rag Mountain food 196, 202-4 National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden Renwick Gallery 82 (Shenandoah highlights 11, 195, 197-8, National Park) 222 65, 71 reserves, see national 195 Shenandoah National Rock Creek Park 190 parks & reserves itineraries 196 Park 221-3 Soapstone Valley Trail reservations 30 shopping 206 United States Botanic 190 Reynolds Center for Garden 71 sights 196, 199-202 Theodore Roosevelt American Art & United States National sports & activities 206-7 Island 199 Portraiture 131, 131 Arboretum 168 transportation 196 United States Botanic ridesharing 271 National Postal Museum Garden 71 Rock Creek Park 190 112, 275 United States National O Ronald Reagan Washington Arboretum 168 National Airport 268 National Public Radio 113 Oak Hill Cemetery 95 Yards Park 114-15 National Sporting Museum Oatlands Historic House & row houses 259, 102, Passport DC 22 (Middleburg) 219 Gardens (Leesburg) 219 158-9 Peirce Mill 191 National WWII Memorial Octagon Museum 83 72-3 Penn Quarter, see Old Rag Mountain Downtown & Penn S National Zoo 189-90, 69 (Shenandoah Quarter safety 275 natural phenomena National Park) 222 Pentagon 198 Saint John Paul II National Hawksbill Mountain opening hours 275 Shrine 169 (Shenandoah National people 239 drinking & nightlife 37 scandals 263 Park) 222 Petersen House 135 food 30 Scottish Rite Temple 146 286 Shenandoah National squares travel seasons 15, 21-3, 224 Park 221-3 Lafayette Square 83 travel to/from Washington, W walking tours 272 accommodations 223 McPherson Square 84 DC 11, 15, 268-9 Capitol Hill & South DC food 222 St John’s Church 83 travel within Washington, 118, 124-5, 118, 125 sights 221-2 St Mary’s Episcopal DC 15, 269-71 sports & activities 222-3 Church 84 Tudor Place 94 Dupont Circle & Kalorama 152-3, 152 INDEX INDEX transportation 221 Stabler-Leadbeater Turkish Ambassador’s Georgetown 99, shopping 43-4, see also Apothecary Museum Residence 145 99 Shopping subindex, 200 TV 257, 275 Logan Circle, U Street & individual stadiums Columbia Heights 176, S–W neighborhoods Audi Field 13, 124 180-1, 176, 180 U business hours 44 Capital One Arena 142 White House Area & Union Station 113, 269, 111 Foggy Bottom 89, opening hours 44 FedEx Field 170 89 United States Botanic Walters Art Museum taxes 44 Nationals Park 123 Garden 71 (Baltimore) 211 websites 44 Oriole Park at Camden United States Holocaust Washington Convention Signers’ Memorial 72 Yards (Baltimore) 213 Memorial Museum 27, Center 136 Six Flags America 48 Star-Spangled Banner Flag 108, 111 Washington, DC’s House & 1812 Museum Smithsonian Castle 64, 73, United States National neighborhoods (Baltimore) 211 64, 67 Arboretum 168 54-5, 54 State Department 84 Smithsonian Folklife universities Blagden Alley 13, 141 Festival 22, 69 Steven F Udvar-Hazy Gallaudet University Chinatown 136 Smithsonian Institution 6, Center 202 169, 276 Embassy Row 145, 260, 13, 26, 66-9, 202, 276, Studio Gallery 147 Georgetown University 145 7, 67, 68-9, see also Supreme Court 112, 111 94-5, 103 H Street 122 individual museums Surratt House Site George Washington Hains Point 116 smoking 275 (Wok & Roll) 136 University 85 Ivy City 13, 178 Soapstone Valley Trail 190 Howard University 167 Society of the K Street 83-4 T US Naval Academy Cincinnati 147 (Annapolis) 214 Navy Yard 13 Taft Memorial Carillon 113 South DC, see Capitol Hill Upper Northwest DC 55, Petworth 182 taxes 275-6 & South DC 186-94, 316 Southwest Waterfront accommodations 225 114 Southwest Waterfront 114 accommodations 226, drinking & nightlife 37 Spanish Steps 148 236 U Street Corridor 12, 12 shopping 44 spectator sports 25, 41 drinking & nightlife Wharf, the 13, 114 sports & activities 21-3, 25, taxis 268, 269, 271 187, 193 Washington, George 241-2 45-6, see also Sports telephone services 276 entertainment 193-4 Washington Monument 12, & Activities subindex, Textile Museum 84 food 187, 191-3 63, 65, 3, 12 individual THEARC 115 Washington Monument neighborhoods highlights 186, 188, 186 theater 41 (Baltimore) 211 boating 75, 101, 194, 217 itineraries 187 Theodore Roosevelt shopping 194 Washington National cycling 101, 126-7, 206-7, Island 199 Cathedral 188, 3, 188 217 sights 187, 189-91 The Point (Harpers Washington Post 238, 256, sports & activities 194 golf 127, 183 Ferry) 217 258, 257 transportation 187 hiking 101, 127, 190, 218, Tidal Basin 72 Watergate Complex 84 222-3 urban development 239 time 14, 276 Watergate Hotel 13, 228 horseback riding 190, US Naval Academy tipping 275 water sports 45 194 (Annapolis) 214 accommodations 224 Fletcher’s ice skating 75, 88 U Street, see Logan Circle, drinking & nightlife 37 Boathouse 194 kayaking 101, 127 U Street & Columbia food 30 Heights River Riders (Harpers water sports 101, 127, Ferry) 217 194, 217 toilets 276 weather 15, 21-3 sports arenas, see Touchstone Gallery 136 V websites 14, 15 stadiums tourist information 14, 276 vacations 275 children 48 spying 252 tours 28, 272 Vietnam Veterans drinking & nightlife 37 breweries 37 Memorial 10, 62, 65, food 32, 33 children 48 10, 65 shopping 44 food 32 vineyards, see wineries sports & activities 46 White House 79 Virginia, see Northern Sights 000 train travel 269 Virginia Wharf, the 13, 114 Wharf Transit Pier 105 Map Pages 000 transportation 268-72 visas 14, 277 White House 9, 27, 78-81, Photo Pages 000 volunteering 277 287 80-1, 9, 78, 80, 81 Dolcezza 148 White House Area & Foggy B Dolcezza at Hirshhorn 75 J Bottom 55, 76-91, Baan Thai 170 Donburi 160 Jaleo 137 296-7 Bad Saint 173-4 Duke’s Grocery 149 Jimmy Cantler’s accommodations 226, Baked & Wired 95 Riverside Inn (Annapolis) 215 227-8 Ben’s Chili Bowl 12, 171, 12 Jimmy T’s 119 drinking & nightlife 77, Ben’s Next Door 173 E INDEX 88, 90 Julia’s Empanadas 161 Beuchert’s Saloon 121 Eamonn’s Dublin entertainment 90-1 Chipper 203 Bibiana 140 food 77, 85-8 El Chucho 173 Bindaas 192 K EATING highlights 9, 76, El Pollo Rico 202-3 Birch & Barley 171 Kaz Sushi Bistro 88 78-81, 76 El Sol 138-9 Bistro Bohem 173 Kinship 139-40 itineraries 77 Equinox 87 Bistrot du Coin 149, 153 Komi 150 shopping 77, 91 Estadio 170 BlackSalt 98 Kotobuki 97 sights 82-5 Ethiopic 120 Blue Duck Tavern 149-50 transportation 77 Etto 170 Boatyard Bar & Grill walks 89, 89 (Annapolis) 215 L Wilkes Booth, John 245 Bombay Club 87 F La Chaumière 98 William Paca House & Le Diplomate 171 Brabo Tasting Room 203 Faidley’s (Baltimore) 213 Garden (Annapolis) 215 Le Grenier 120 Brasserie Beck 140 Farmers Fishers wine 37, 220 Bread Furst 191 Bakers 97 Lebanese Taverna 193 wineries Breadline 86 Federalist Pig 160 Little Serow 149 Bluemont Vineyard 220 Bub & Pop’s 148 Fiola 138 Los Hermanos 180 Breaux Vineyards 220 Buck’s Fishing & Fiola Mare 97 District Winery 122-3 Camping 192-3 Fish Market 204 Otium Cellars 220 M BUL 161 Florida Avenue Grill 171 Sunset Hills Vineyard Macon 193 Busboys & Poets 27, Founding Farmers 87 220 Maine Avenue Fish Market 139, 172 Full Kee 139 119 Tarara Vineyard 220 Buzz Bakeshop 203 Women’s Titanic Makoto 97-8 Memorial 116 G Maple 181 Marcel’s 88 Woodrow Wilson House 146 C G Street Food 86 Market Lunch 120 Cafe Milano 98 Gadsby’s Tavern Cafe Mozart 139 Restaurant 204 Martin’s Tavern 97, 102 Y Masseria 174 Yards Park 114-15 CakeRoom 161 Georgetown Cupcake 96 Cannonball Deli Georgia Brown’s 88 Matchbox Pizza 138 (Harpers Ferry) 217 Good Stuff Eatery 119 Minibar 138 Z Caphe Banh Mi 203 Guide Shack Cafe Mintwood Place 161 zoos 189-90, 69 Cascade Café 75 (Harpers Ferry) 217 Mirabelle 87 Central Michel Mitsitam Native Foods Richard 137-8 Cafe 75 H 5 EATING Chercher 171 Momo Sushi & Cafe 204 Chez Billy Sud 97 Handlebar Cafe Montmartre 120 &pizza 171-2 (Baltimore) 212 Chick & Ruth’s Delly 2 Amys 191 (Annapolis) 215 Hank’s Oyster Bar 150, 203 1789 98 Helmand (Baltimore) ChiKo 117, 184 N 212-13 Comet Ping Pong 191 Nando’s Peri-Peri 139 Hill Country Barbecue 137 Compass Rose 172 A Himitsu 182 A Baked Joint 138 Hitching Post 182 O Afterwords Cafe 149 D Obelisk 150 American Ice Company 172 Dabney 139 Occidental Grill 88 I Amsterdam Falafelshop Daikaya 136 Old Ebbitt Grill 86 160 Il Canale 97 Dangerously Oohh’s & Aahh’s 173 Anvil (Harpers Ferry) 217 Delicious Pies 119 Indique 193 Open City 191-2 Astro Doughnuts & Fried Del Ray Cafe 203 Iron Rooster Open City at the National Chicken 137 (Annapolis) 215 Diner 160 Cathedral 192 Ivy City Smokehouse Oval Room 87 District Commons 86 Tavern 174 288 Big Hunt 154 P T Black Squirrel 162 I Patisserie Poupon 96 Tabard Inn Restaurant 150 Blaguard 162-3 Ireland’s Four Courts 204 Pavilion Cafe 74-5 Tail Up Goat 161 Bluejacket Brewery Pearl Dive Oyster Palace Taylor Gourmet 119-20 121, 36 J 171 Teaism 137 Board Room 150-1 Jack Rose Dining Saloon

INDEX INDEX Perry’s 161-2 Ted’s Bulletin 120 Bossa 162 162 Pho 14 173 Thames St Oyster House Brewer’s Art (Baltimore) Jos A Magnus & Co 179 Pie Sisters 95-6 (Baltimore) 212 213 J Paul’s 100

DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE Pig 170 Thip Khao 174 Buffalo Billiards 154 JR’s 153 Pineapple and Pearls 121 Tico 172-3 Pitango Gelato 119 Tiger Fork 139 Pizzeria Paradiso 96 Timber Pizza 182 C K Cafe Bonaparte 100 Pleasant Pops 160-1 Toki Underground 117, 119 Kafe Leopold 100 Cafe Citron 153 Pollock Dining Room Tryst 160, 158 Killer ESP 205 (Shenandoah National Captain Gregory’s 205 King St Oyster Bar Park) 222 Ching Ching Cha 98 (Middleburg) 220 Pretzel Bakery 119 U Churchkey 175 Prime Rib 87 Un Je Ne Sais Quoi 148 City Tap House 140 Union Market 174 Cobalt 154 L Columbia Room 140 La Colombe 90, 140-1 R Compass Coffee 141 Larry’s Lounge 151 Rasika 137 V Continental 204 Lauriol Plaza 153 Red Apron Butchery 136 Vace Deli 192 Copycat Co 121 Le Bar 90 Red Fox Tavern Vin 909 (Annapolis) 215 Little Miss Whiskey’s (Middleburg) 219-20 Golden Dollar 122 RedRocks Pizzeria 173 W D Lucky Bar 154 Rocklands Barbecue 192 Dabney Cellar 140 Well-Dressed Burrito 149 Rose’s Luxury 120-1 Dacha Beer Garden 175 Woodberry Kitchen M Dan’s Cafe 162 (Baltimore) 213 Marvin 177 DC Brau 179 S Woodward Table 87 Meridian Pint 181, , DC Reynolds 182 181 185 Salt Line 120 Woodward Takeout Mr Henry’s 122 DC9 179, 181 Satellite Room 172 Food 86 Decades 154 Seventh Hill Pizza 120 District Winery 122-3 N Shake Shack 137 Z Nanny O’Briens Irish Shoe’s Cup & Cork Zaytinya 137 (Leesburg) 219 Pub 193 Zorba’s Cafe 148 F Nellie’s 175 Shouk 138 Filter 151, 153 Sichuan Pavilion 86 New Columbia Firefly Bar 151 Distillers 178 Simply Banh Mi 95 Flash 177 Number Nine 153-4 Soapstone Market 192 DRINKING & 6 NIGHTLIFE Froggy Bottom Pub 90 Soi 38 86-7 Sonoma Cellars 203-4 18th Street Lounge 151 O Spottswood Dining Room G Off the Record 88, 90 (Shenandoah National Grace Street Coffee One Eight Distilling 178 Park) 222 A 98, 100 Ambar 125 One-Eyed Mike’s St Arnold’s Mussel Bar Granville Moore’s 121-2 (Baltimore) 213 149, 193 Atlas Brew Works 178 Sticky Fingers 173 H Stomping Ground 203 P B H Street Country Club Sushi Taro 150 Peregrine Espresso 123 Bar Charley 151 123, 184 Sweet Home Café 74 Pizzeria Birreria Bardo Brewing 122 Habana Village 163 Sweetgreen 96, 149 Paradiso 205 Bar Pilar 177 Hank’s Cocktail Bar 182 Pop-Up Bar 175 Bar PX 205 POV 90 Bier Baron Tavern 151 Primrose 178

Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 289

3 ENTERTAINMENT Washington National Q Opera 91 H Qualia Coffee 177-8 9:30 Club 179 Woolly Mammoth Theatre Hill’s Kitchen 126 Adventure Theatre MTC 48 Company 141 Home Rule 183 AMC Loews Uptown 1 194 R Anthem 123 Raven 177 I Arena Stage 123 7 SHOPPING INDEX Red Derby 177 Idle Time Books 163 Arlington Cinema & Republic Drafthouse 205 Restoratives 178-9

Atlas Performing Arts A K ENTERTAINMENT Right Proper Center 124 Brewing Co 175 Adams Morgan Farmers Kramerbooks 155 Audi Field 124 Market 164 Right Proper Brewing Krön Chocolatier 194 Co Brookland Avalon Theatre 193 American Institute of Production House 178 Basin Street Lounge 206 Architects Bookstore 91 Rocket Bar 141 Birchmere 205-6 Arlington Farmers M Market 206 Mazza Gallerie 194 Room 11 180-1 Black Cat 179 Meeps 163 Round Robin 88 Blues Alley 100 Miss Pixie’s 183 Russia House 151 Bukom Cafe 163 B Ruta del Vino 182 Busboys & Poets 27, B&K Convenience 139, 172 Store 164 N Capital One Arena 142 Barstons Child’s Play 194 S National Air and Space Capitol Steps 141 Beadazzled 155 Museum 74 Saloon 177 Clarendon Ballroom 205 Betsy Fisher 155 National Gallery of Art 74 Sequoia 100 Columbia Station 163 Big Planet Comics 183 National Museum of Sidamo Coffee & Tea 122 Dance Place 182 Brass Knob 163 African Art 74 Songbyrd Record DC Improv 154 National Museum of Ameri- Cafe & Music Discovery Theater 75 can History 74 House 162 E Street Cinema 141-2 C National Museum of Sovereign 100 Edlavitch DC Jewish Cady’s Alley 100-1 Natural History 74 Studio Theatre 181 Community Center 154 Capitol Hill Books 124, National Museum of the Folger Theatre 123-4 126, 125 American Indian 74 T Ford’s Theatre 142 CityCenterDC 142 Commonwealth 164 Tabard Inn Bar 151 Gala Hispanic Theatre O 182-3 The Coffee Bar 175 Old Town Farmers Hamilton 90 Tombs 98 D Market 206 Howard Theatre 179 Top of the Gate 88 Del Ray Farmers Market Oliver Dunn, Moss & Co 101 Tune Inn 121 Jazz in the Garden 75 206 Kennedy Center 27, 90, 26 Dupont Circle Market 155 La Maison Française 194 P U Lincoln Theatre 181 Politics and Prose 126 U Street Music Hall 175, Madam’s Organ 163 E Politics and Prose Bookstore 194 184-5 National Symphony Eastern Market 25, 126, 24 Union Street Orchestra 91 Proper Topper 155 Public House 205 National Theatre 27, 141 F Nationals Park 123 Fashion Centre at R V Oriole Park at Camden Pentagon City 206 Red Onion Records 183 Yards (Baltimore) 213 Velvet Lounge 181 Fia’s Fabulous Finds 183 Redeem 183 Pearl Street Warehouse 124 Flea Market 126 REI Washington DC Puppet Company 48 Fleet Feet 164 Flagship Store 126 W Rock & Roll Hotel 123 Relish 101 Whitlow’s on Freer-Sackler Museums of Shakespeare Theatre Asian Art 74 Renwick Gallery Store 91 Wilson 204 Company 27, 141 Wine Kitchen Source Theatre 181 (Leesburg) 219 Sylvan Theater 75 G S Wonderland Twins Jazz 179 Good Wood 183 Secondi 155 Ballroom 177 Washington Ballet 90-1 Second Story Books 155 290 Shop Made in DC 155 Rock Creek Golf Hilltop Hostel 235 Smash! 164, 159 Course 183 Hilton Garden Inn/ P Rock Creek Park Horse Georgetown Area 233 Phoenix Park Hotel 229 Center 194 Historic Inns of Annapolis Pod DC Hotel 230-1 T Spirit of Mount Vernon 272 (Annapolis) 216 Tabletop 155 Thompson Boat Center 101 Hostelling International – R

INDEX INDEX Teaism Shop 142 Tidal Basin Boathouse 75 Washington DC 230 Red Fox Inn The Indian Craft Shop 91 Woodwind (Annapolis) 216 Hotel Brexton (Baltimore) (Middleburg) 221 Tibet Shop 164 213 River Inn 227 Torpedo Factory Art Hotel Harrington 230 SPORTS &ACTIVITIES Center 206 Hotel Hive 227 4 SLEEPING Tugooh Toys 100 Hotel Lombardy 227 S Hotel RL 227 Sagamore Pendry A (Baltimore) 214 W Adam’s Inn 234 ScotLaur Inn (Annapolis) W Curtis Draper J Akwaaba 232 216 Tobacconist 91 Jackson Rose (Harpers Skyland Resort White House Gifts 91 American Guest House Ferry) 218 234-5 (Shenandoah National White House Historical Jefferson, the 234 Park) 223 Association Museum Asante Sana Inn 235 Sofitel Lafayette Shop 91 Square 227 Woven History 126 K B St Gregory 233-4 Kalorama Guest House 236 Big Meadows Lodge St Regis Washington 228 Kimpton Carlyle Hotel 232 (Shenandoah National Swann House 233 Kimpton George Hotel 230 2 SPORTS & Park) 223 ACTIVITIES Kimpton Glover Park Hotel 236 T Anacostia Riverwalk C Kimpton Hotel Madera 233 Tabard Inn 232 Trail 127 Cambria Washington DC Kimpton Hotel Monaco Teahorse Hostel (Harpers Ballpark Boathouse 127 Convention Center DC 231 Ferry) 218 Big Wheel Bikes 101 235-6 Kimpton Hotel Palomar Town’s Inn (Harpers Ferry) Capital View Hostel 230 Bike & Roll 126-7, 272 DC 232 218 Capitol Hill Hotel 229 C&O Canal National Kimpton Mason Trump International Hotel Historic Park Chester Arthur House 235 & Rook Hotel 235 Washington DC 231 (Harpers Ferry) 217 City House Hostel Kimpton Rouge Hotel 233 C&O Canal Towpath 94, 101 Washington DC 229 Kimpton Topaz Hotel 233 Capital Crescent Trail 101 Club Quarters 228 W City Segway Tours 272 Washington Court Cruises on the Bay L Hotel 230 (Annapolis) 215 E Leesburg Colonial Inn Washington Hilton 235 DC Brew Tours 272 Eldon Suites 231 (Leesburg) 220-1 Watergate Hotel 13, 228 DC by Foot 272 Embassy Circle Guest Lewis Mountain Cabins Willard InterContinental House 232 (Shenandoah National DC Metro Food Tours 272 Hotel 228 Embassy Inn 231 Park) 223 East Potomac Park Golf William Penn House 229 Liaison 229-30 Course 127 Embassy Suites Windsor Inn 231-2 Washington DC 234 Line Hotel DC, the 234 Fletcher’s Boathouse 194 Woodley Park Guest Lorien Hotel & Spa 236 Four Centuries Walking House 236 Tour (Annapolis) 216 G Ice Rink 75 Georgetown Inn 229 M Key Bridge Boathouse 101 Georgetown Suites 229 Madison 233 Langston Golf Course 127 Graham Georgetown 228-9 Mayflower Renaissance Old Town Trolley Tours 272 Hotel 227 Potomac Riverboat Co 272 Melrose Hotel 227 River Riders (Harpers H Morrison-Clark Inn 231 Ferry) 217 Hay-Adams Hotel 228 Henley Park Hotel 230 HI Baltimore Hostel O (Baltimore) 213 Old Colony Inn 236 HighRoad Hostel 234 Omni Shoreham Hotel 236 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 291 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 292 Washington, DC Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 293 COLUMBIA HEIGHTS

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LOGAN CIRCLE, U STREET & COLUMBIA HEIGHTS Map on p312 æ Sights (p167) 17 Bistro Bohem ...... E6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p175) 54 Howard Theatre...... D6 1 African American Civil War 18 Busboys & Poets...... B5 Bar Pilar ...... (see 56) 55 Lincoln Theatre...... C5 Memorial...... C5 19 Chercher ...... D8 Churchkey ...... (see 16) 56 Source Theatre...... B6 2 African American Civil War 20 Compass Rose...... B6 37 Dacha Beer Garden...... D7 57 Studio Theatre...... B7 Museum ...... D6 21 El Chucho...... C1 38 Flash ...... D6 58 Twins Jazz ...... B5 3 Bethune Council House ...... B8 22 Estadio ...... B7 39 Marvin ...... B5 59 Velvet Lounge ...... D5 4 BloomBars...... C1 23 Etto ...... B7 40 Meridian Pint...... C1 5 Foundry Gallery...... D5 24 Florida Avenue Grill ...... C4 41 Nellie's...... D6 þ Shopping (p183) 6 Howard University...... E4 25 Le Diplomate ...... B7 42 Pop-Up Bar...... D6 60 Big Planet Comics ...... A5 7 Marvin Gaye Mural...... D6 26 Los Hermanos...... B1 43 Raven ...... A2 61 Good Wood...... B5 8 Meridian Hill Park...... A4 27 Maple...... C1 44 Right Proper Brewing Co...... D6 62 Home Rule...... B6 9 Mexican Cultural Institute ...... A3 28 Oohh's & Aahh's...... C5 45 Room 11...... C1 63 Miss Pixie's...... B7 10 Silent George Mural...... A5 29 Pearl Dive Oyster Palace ...... B7 46 Saloon ...... C5 64 Red Onion Records ...... A5 30 Pho 14...... B1 47 The Coffee Bar...... C6 65 Redeem...... B6 ú Eating (p170) 31 Pig ...... B8 48 U Street Music Hall...... C5 11 &pizza...... B5 32 RedRocks Pizzeria...... C1 49 Wonderland Ballroom...... C2 ÿ Sleeping (p235) 12 American Ice Company ...... D5 33 Satellite Room...... D5 66 Asante Sana Inn...... C1 13 Baan Thai...... B8 34 Sticky Fingers...... B1 ý Entertainment (p179) 67 Cambria Washington DC 14 Bad Saint...... C1 35 Thip Khao...... B1 50 9:30 Club ...... D5 Convention Center...... D8 15 Ben's Chili Bowl...... C5 36 Tico ...... B6 51 Black Cat...... B6 68 Chester Arthur House...... C8 Ben's Next Door...... (see 15) 52 DC9...... D6 69 Kimpton Mason & Rook 16 Birch & Barley ...... B8 53 Gala Hispanic Theatre...... B1 Hotel...... B8 315 alexandria 1 2 3 4

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AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Karla Zimmerman Adams Morgan, Capitol Hill & South DC, Downtown & Penn Quarter, Dupont Circle & Kalorama, Georgetown, Logan Circle, U Street & Columbia Heights Karla lives in Chicago, where she eats doughnuts, yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines, and websites when she’s not doing the first two things. She has contributed to 40-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America, and the Caribbean – all of which are a long way from the early days, when she wrote about gravel for a construction magazine and got to trek to places like Fredonia, Kansas. To learn more, follow her @karlazimmerman on Instagram and Twitter. Karla also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Virginia Maxwell Leesburg & Middleburg, National Mall, Northern Virginia, Shenandoah National Park, Upper Northwest DC, White House & Foggy Bottom Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. Though the Mediterra- nean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for LP guidebooks – Virginia also covers Finland, Armenia, the United States and Australia for LP products. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Contributing Writer Amy Balfour (Annapolis, Baltimore, Harpers Ferry)

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 7th edition – November 2018 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 181 6 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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