Foreword by the President

How pleasing it is to see the way the Bulletin has continued to flourish and even expand over the few years it has been going in its present guise. The mixture of historical and contemporary articles continues to demonstrate the wide variety of activities indulged in by our members. Ifsome of the articles are rather controversial, so much the better! Let's hope they stir more members into airing their own VIews.

It is no discredit to the producers of this excellent publication to say that the weakest part is the reproduction of photographs. Included in this edition are two pages of photos reproduced using upgraded computer equipment. If the experiment is successful, it is intended to acquire a good scanner for Michael Smith to use so we shall be needing more photos with your articles for the next Bulletin.

The YRC has always managed to have members scattered in remote places all over the world and this trend seems to be on the increase. Perhaps this is partly due to the articles in the Bulletin, so read on and, who knows, you may find the inspiration for the trip of a lifetime!

©1997 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club

Secretary - Gordon Humphreys, Old Hall Cottage, Yealand Conyers, Carnforth, Lancashire, LA5 9SJ

Editor - Michael Smith, 80 Towngate Road, Worrall, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S35 OAR

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those ofthe YR.C nor its Officers.

The YRC Bulletin I Summer 1997 Contents Roumanian Winter 1939-1940 Part 2 of3 H. G. Watts 3 A Visit to the Doctor Arthur W. Evans 6 Irish potholing photographs 1938 - 1958 John Godley 7 President's report from the 104th AGM DerekBush 8 Epics - Adventures - Errors Derek Smithson 10 'Yorkshire' David Smith 12 Faith or Foolishness inNew Zealand Alan Linford 12 The Trou de Ver Project 1993-1995 Ged Campion 13 Expedition Diary, 1957 - Nepal Maurice Wilson 21 The YRC Oman caving trip Ged Campion 22 Pie de Monne: a cautionary tale Derek Collins 23 A short Scottish holiday Adrian D. Bridge 24 Flanders Tim Josephy 26 Monte Baldo - Lake Garda lain Gilmour 28 Iceland Amold N Patchett 29 A Slice ofHistory: YCMC Bill Todd 33

Reviews Bill Todd 36 Craven Pothole Club Record Nos 44-45 40 Journeys into the Unknown: Keith Miller Michae1 Smith 41

The Ins and Outs ofour Club Finances 42 Chippings 43 Club Proceedings 45

Obituaries Clifford Downham 49 Peter Swindells 51 Harry Stembridge 52 A. B. Hargreaves 55

Letters 56 A Song for the Yorkshire Ramblers Bill Todd 58

Meet Reports: Lowstern March 1995 59 Langdale, Joint Meet September 1996 59 Alpine Meet, Ailefroide, Dauphine July/August 61 83rd Annual Dinner, Kirby Lonsdale November 68 Scottish Winter Meet, Braemar February 1997 70 Lowstern March 72

The YRC Bulletin 2 Summer 1997 Roumanian Winter 1939-1940 wood-running which we did not Part 2 of 3 attempt. H. G. Watts We did the round Hip from Sinaia SINAIA. to Omul and down to Busteni, a Sinaia was the playground of village 5 miles higher up the railway fashionable Bucharest. Besides King then Sinaia, on the last Sunday in Carol's country residence, Pelesh April under glorious conditions. Castle, there were several large hotels, Three hours of climbing got us to the a casino, the teashops where nostalgia hut on the Varful cu Dor at 11 could be nurtured on hot chocolate 0' clock, and over a glass of wine and and creamy cakes. a map we decided it was a fine day to do the 13 Km to Omul, and run down The village lies in a steep-sided to Busteni by the Valea Corbului. We narrow valley, and there are few good made the mistake of consulting the ski-slopes near Sinaia itself For man who looked after the hut, and had practice we used to climb for an hour to listen to about ten minutes of true to a clearing in the woods, Poiana "nu se poate" (Roumanian for it is Regale. Another hour and a half impossible): There wouldn't be any canying ski up a steep and rocky path snow - It was a long way and would beyond this brought us to the Cabana take six hours - We shouldn't be' Regale Carol I1, a military hut on the allowed to go down the Valea track leading to Pestera in the Cerbului as there was a concourse de Islomitsa valley. From this point there ski on the mOlTOW. We wondered are three god tours; south to Varful cu how a concourse was compatible with Dol', 5580ft, westwards across the absence of snow and left the hut at high ground and down to Pestera; or 11.30. north to Omul, 8209ft, one of the highest peaks in the Carpathians. Half an hour's climb brought us to the Munte Fumica, 6900ft, from We more frequently took the easier which we had 1000ft of running over but longer three hour climb direct to perfect spring snow, to the Cabana Varful cu Dol'. The S.K.Y. hut, about Pegele Carol II. Then came on hour's 500ft below the peak, was rather like steady climb across the plateau behind the old Parsenn hut before it was Caraiman, a mountain of steep icy' rebuilt. The slope from the summit to crags, with an 80ft stone cross on the the hut was used by the locals as a top, a memorial to the 1941/18 war. slalom course. The run of 2000ft We had another short run after from the hut down to the tree line, passing the head of the Valsa Tepilor; where the road from Sinaia ends, is then the 2l1z hour climb to the hut on shallow gullies and ridges, somewhat the summit of Omul. We reached this akin to the Lauberhom - Scheidegg 4l1z hours after leaving the Varful cu run, and lovely on the right day, but Dol'. The last half hour was in deep with little protection from the wind, snow across the steep slope at the often spoilt by unbreakable ClUSt. The head ofthe Valea Cerbului. rest ofthe run to the village was either down the road, fast going in frosty The hut, Casa Mihai Haret, was mn weather, or steep. rough and difficult by the T.c.R. so they were in no hurry to serve us and we had to wait half an

The YRCBulletin 3 Summer 1997 hour for soup and a bottle of wine. We were told in Bucharest that This was annoying because while we Predeal was a marvellous skiing resort were waiting the sun went off the with wonderful practice slopes and valley and the spring snow crusted up even a ski-lift, but we hadn't then for our run down. The top 2000ft of become wise to the native delight in the Valea Cerbului consists of long hyperbole. The village had that steep slopes, perfect for a long schuss untidy, slightly unstable look which under good conditions. After that the characterises so many Roumanian valley becomes narrower but rather villages, a look with which we in less steep and we were glad to find England are now becoming that the snow had not crusted at the increasingly familiar, thanks to the lower altitude. This is undoubtedly efforts of the Ministry of Town and one of the finest runs in the district. Country Planning. The way through the woods at the bottom ofthe valley leads beneath the The villages in the Regat only really northern bastions of Varful Castila, look as if God had put them there pinnacles ofrock rising straight out of during the lovely but all too brief the ground like the Dolomites, and fortnight when the blossom is out. surely wonderful places for rock­ climbing. We calculated the distance The ski-lift operated over the 500 ft from Sinaia to Busteni, via Varful cu from the bottom ofthe nursery slopes Dor and Omul, to be about 30 Km. to the restaurant at the top. "Operated" was quite often a We never explored the country to euphemism. The contraption consisted the east of Sinaia on ski, though one of endless rope to which, to the day early in May after the snow had accompaniment ofmuch loquacity and gone I climbed on foot with Robin gesticulation, the victim was attached Hankey, First Secretary at the by 9ft oftow-rope, which dragged him Legation, to the Varful Vornicul, upwards by a belt round his behind. 5400ft. We reached it up a side valley The tow-rope usually came off half­ leaving the main road 5 miles south of way up, where the endless rope went Sinaia, and found good slopes at the round a sharp bend. When this top, with plenty of scope for happened the victim fell over, and exploration at some future date. traffic was delayed for twenty minutes because other people coming up fell PREDEAL. over him, and it took a long time and a The village of Predeal is 10 miles lot of talking for the man in the black north of Sinaia, and lies at the top of woolly hat who worked the thing to the pass, 3400 ft, where the road and unravel the heap and deal out the railway go over into Transylvania. blame to everybody's satisfaction. Until 1918 it was the last Roumanian The lift was made by Brown-Boveri village before crossing the frontier into and was a noble effort, but we found it Austria-Hungary, and even in 1940 quicker to walk. the change in the look of the houses and the people in the 5 miles between The best skiing at Predeal was on a Predeal and Timisul de Sus gave one hill of about 5500ft called Diham, two the feeling of having crossed an hours climb south-westwards from the ethnographic boundary. village. With plenty oftrees on it, and higher mountains fairly near, the

The YRC Bulletin 4 Summer 1997 Diham gets more protection from occupied Roumania, but before our wind and sun than does the higher Legation had been withdrawn. There ground above Sinaia, so the snow is were 80 Germans in the hotel, and a often in better condition. There were handful of other nationalities. At two huts, one Roumanian, the other midnight the Germans all sang German, about one kilometre apart. ''Deutschland Uber Alles" and the The German one belonged to the "Horst Wesse1 lied". Robin and the Reichsdeutscher colony in Bucharest. other Englishman succeeded in collecting six Roumanians, one Swiss There is quite a broad stretch of and two various and sang "Auld Lang country at the top of the Diham, and Syne" in English, Roumanian and although it was popular there was Schweizerdeutsch. When we gotback always plenty of room There are to their table they found a forbidding numerous short runs offering a wide looking Nazi throwing their glasses of variety oftypes of snow, hard or soft, wine one by one into a corner and steep or gentle. The run back to saying that was what the Germans Predeal is by way of another hut, the were bound to do to England. On Forban, - memorable for poor heating being told he'd better leam to swim and much garlic - through wide glades first he accused them of stealing his between woods, and finishing with a revolver, and they were only saved mile of wood path leading to a from having to fight their way out by, "carciuma" (Tavem, strangely the the proprietor, the jolly type of south word is the same in Romany) noted German with a red face, who pacified' for its hot tsuica. the mob in their own tongue, saying ''Nein, nein, bitte heute ist Neujahr, We found Predeal quite a good wir sind alle Freunden hier". place for practice, or for short runs when the weather was poor, but it Actually in the huts and on the hills lacked comfortable hotels and generally we found the Germans restaurants, so we stayed in Sinaia or perfectly civil, and indeed ready to Brasov and came to Predeal by rail or help with spare ski-points and straps car. There was however a good hotel in the event of trouble. Not even called the "Gaiser" at Timisul de Sus, Hitler could kill the friendship of high but it was run by a German and nearly places. always full of them It was here that Robin Hankey and another Englishman nearly got involved in a scrap on New Year's night 1941. This was after the Germans had

"Look upward: thought, unhindered, soars apart in still pursuit upon a loftier course. Climb but a little hill: you too may find the clouds ebb surelyfrom your clearer mind. " GeofJrey Winthrop Young

The YRC Bulletin 5 Summer 1997 to the col. There we found the other A Visit to the Doctor patty still there. The ice slope had avalanched and all the steps had gone. Arthur W. Evans One of the guides solved tills by driving his axe into underlying hard I was busy getting ready for my annual snow and fixing an abseil rope. visit to the Alps. The venue that year was Cortina in the Dolomites. One At some time during the climb my thing, however, was worrying me. fingers thawed out but on arriving hack at Wcngcn, where my wife and The previous year I had attended the family were staying, I took off my Cleveland M.C.'s meet in the gloves to find all my fingers decorated Oberland. We'd spent a week at the with large grey blisters. Ever since, Concordia Hut climbing on the my fingers become numb and useless neighbouring peaks. Our last climb in slightly cold weather and it was tills was the Gros Grunhorn and I was that was worrying me as I prepared climbing with Maurice Wilson. Part for my visit to the Dolomites. ofthis involved a couloir in full shade. Maurice led bombarding me with I decided to seek medical advice and chunks of ice as he cut an excellent took my problem to my doctor. . He ladder of steps though, as usual, too was most helpful and said there were far apart for my short legs. During some pills which would deal with the this my hands went numb despite problem. He had to send away for woollen mitts and over gloves and them and they arrived two days before they were still numb the following day we were due to leave and I called to when we all wandered back up the collect them. Aletsch glacier to the Jungfi..au Joch. Maurice and I decided to stay the I thanked him and he wished me a night at the climbers' hut and climb good holiday. The, as I was leaving the Jungfrau the next day. The rest of his consulting room, he called after me the party started for home. and said: "Oh, by the way, they'll make you dizzy!" I thanked rum again Overnight the weather became cloudy and left. with a strong Fohn wind and, after receiving a weather report from The weather was good fit Cortina and Zurich, the number of patties I had an excellent and very successful intending to climb dwindled to one holiday, but that is another story. As rope of two Swiss guides and four for the pills, they were never used and Swiss climbers. Maurice and I somehow were mislaid. decided to follow them.

The climb was straightforward, across the glacier to a short steep ice slope with large bucket steps up to a col and then cramponing up hard snow to the top. After a photographic session we started down only to find the snow had softened and we floundered down thigh deep, one rope length at a time,

'I11e YRC Bulletin 6 Summer 1997 Irish Potholing group photographs 1938 - 1958 John Godiey

This 1938 photograph John remembers as probably having been taken with a small box camera. It is the party at Polnagollum into which Bernard Nelstrop had forced a way through a boulder jam. They are Fred booth, Geoffiey Gowing, Stanley Marsden and Roberts after Bernard had returned home.

The 1939 photograph taken at Killesher has on the back row Nelstrop, King, Roberts, Armstrong, Godley, Chubb, Stringer, Mr Barbour, Marsden, Bowling, Davidson the then President. On the front row are D. BUlTOW and F. S. Booth.

.. .~i_'1::+k ...~~m· ,:, .'. .::' :·~:··)£11l,\ll1.llt\'1:1~[~~~ In 1959, again at Killesher there are on the back row Tony Reynolds, Jack Holmes, John Lovett, John Godley, Mr Barbour, Stanley Marsden, Cliff. Downham, Brian Nicholson, Frank Wilkinson, probably Michael Selby and Trevar £.almt>n. In front are Peter Harris. and pwbably Peter Hane11. 70/7 tJ rI ,::. ((.N fliy .., tZtZV Cl(l £ l-'> L 1>\ () /\I

The YRC Bulletin 7 Summer 1997 The President's Report friendly relationship with a Kindred from the104th AGM Club. Finally as always we must record our 1996 has perhaps been a quieter year thanks to all the leaders who make our for the Club after the excitements of meets such enjoyable events. Our 1995. meets whether at home or abroad are This has not proved detrimental to the the bedrock of the Club. We should meet attendance which has increased not forget it. by over two to an average of twenty The Club now has six Munroists. lain four per meet. Despite not being able Gilmour and ROlY Newman joined the to please all the people all the time it is ranks this year and I am sure there are satisfying to record that well over a one or two more lurking in the wings quarter of our active members attend who are keeping their ambitions and our monthly meets. It is significant intentions quiet. I know many of us that when a new venue is placed on have mixed feelings about Munro the meets list it evokes considerable bagging but we cannot decry the interest, witness the recent Ennerdale commitment, dedication and meet suggested and organised by downright tenacity which is required Andrew Duxbury and attended by to achieve their objectives. Our man twenty-six members and guests. This doing the Corbetts which appear even site based on a Scout hut is excellent harder than the Munros is also not and has been booked for our very far off completion. These Christmas meet next year. members demand our respect Mention must also be made of our especially as many of the hills are Long Walk week-end held over the climbed in winter conditions requiring Brecon Fans organised by Harvey a high degree of mountaineering and Lomas which introduced myself and navigational skills. quite a few members to an area not Our huts continue to be well often visited by the Club. This week­ maintained thanks to the hard work end as in 1995 was again blessed with of our two wardens David Smith and good weather. Mike Godden. The installation of The Alps meet for those attending was storage heaters, a de-humidifier and again highly successful, not apparently extractor fans at Lowstem have favoured with consistently good helped eliminate the humidity weather as some previous ones but problem. The two wardens will report certainly sufficiently fair to give an in greater detail later in the meeting. Alpine novice like myself two of the The Bulletin continues to thrive. It best weeks walking and climbing of has become a focal point not only of my life. members recording their experiences At the Joint Meet with the Wayfarers but also of members propounding at R.L.H. in Langdale the YR.C. their views on the way the Club outnumbered the Wayfarers by nearly should go forward, We may not five to one. We have in the past always agree with the sentiments suggested to the Wayfarers that we expressed but healthy and open debate give this meet a rest for a year or two within any organisation can only be of only for them to insist very positively benefit. Our thanks once more must that they wish to continue. It is be made to our Editor, Michael Smith flattering to have this positive and for making it all come together.

The YRC Bulletin 8 Summer 1997 Last year I expressed to the AGM Caving and Climbing world. We must quite considerable concern and anxiety also remember Alton Hartley, a much about the difficulty of recruiting loved member and also our Honorary Officers of the Club. I am pleased to Member Sir Charles Evans, ofEverest say that the key positions have now and Kangchenjunga fame. There was been filled and will be in place when one resignation Simon Goodwin. my successor Tim Josephy takes Membership figures are now: over. The Secretary will outline the new structure of the Club later in the 1996 1995 1994 meeting but may I without pre­ HOnOl'a1Y 4 6 6 empting what John has to say give a Life 62 64 65 heartfelt vote of thanks to all the Ordinary 117 114 116 members taking up these offices. I Junior 1 1 1 might also add that our Treasurer, Totals 184 185 188 Alan Kay is staying on for one more year and for that we must be Finally I return to the subject of extremely grateful. Lowstern. The Committee have Recruitment remains a continuing started preliminary discussions about a subject for discussion at our Lowstern extension. This is deemed Committee Meetings. It has been said necessary because ofseveral factors: that the only people who can bring -Lack of washing down/sluicing young people into the Club are young facilities for the potholers. people themselves. Acting on this -Insufficient space where members theory I then spoke to every young can relax if the main room is being and not so young member and asked used as a dining area. i.e. there is no them to make every effort to recruit CommonRoom one young member per year. I would not like to say how successful this plea -No private facilities if members has been but certainly in the especially potholers wish to use it on potholing/caving area there are non Club week-ends when other Clubs currently three potential members plus are using the cottage. at least another three other sources I must emphasise that these which hopefully will be translated into discussions are in the very early stages six new members next year. This if and no detailed plans have been fulfilled is well above the recruitment finalised and until these are presented level ofthe last few years. to the appropriate authorities we Membership stands at 184: one down cannot obtain detailed cost and on last year. There were three deaths estimates. When this information is in the year, Honorary Member available we shall get back to the Club Clifford Downham who gave immediately with proposals on how outstanding service to the Club as we are going to fund the operation. It Secretary and President. Cliff was goes without saying that we shall be also a founder member in 1935 of the asking for some contribution from the C.R.O. and it's Secretary and also a membership. founder member of Ambleside and Langdale Mountain Rescue Team and C.D. BUSH and their Secretary. A truly remarkable record of service to the 9th November,1996

'The YRC Bulletin 9 Summer 1997 especially in the huts when weighed Epics ... down by silence, if one only has the Adventures thoughts one carries with one. I walked a recognised route from Errors Hardanger to Jotunhiemen, Finse to Ardal. A summer route of 5/6 hours each day from hut to hut and also a D.A.Smithson winter route. But I went in spring, when some ofthe huts are closed, but The last two bulletins have seen when in previous years I have attempts to make epic adventures repeatedly had good weather and seem quite reasonable: David & Co. in good snow. This year it was different. the Alps; John & Co. in Spain. These The weather was mostly good but the attempts to spoil a good story by snow was bad, even though all the providing facts will be ignored by all route was over 1000m. I had hoped of us who enjoy affectionately for and expected a good covering of laughing at mends whose tents blow snow to make the travelling easier and down. This only applies to to have fun and adventure with route 'adventures', where the participant finding, with nearly all the waymarks survive intact, not to 'disasters' where out of sight. As it happened most of they don't. I spend much thought and the waymarks were visible with the effort to avoid adventures, but on snow patchy and deep and wet, which solitary journeys the gap between an raised the fears of stream crossings. adventure and a disaster is much Most ofthe streams I met turned into narrower. On a first day out on mixed rivers as soon as I tried to cross them. snow and rock, to have been travelling The most feared stream was frozen on snowshoes for ten hours, light but an unexpected one gave me a fading, and no hut in sight must have 'thrill' . I edged forward thinking to been an adventure because I was jump the narrow deep channel even carrying winter bivouac equipment. though with my heavy sack my jump There never seem to be places to bed was only a little longer than my stride, down when the unplanned time but much more committing. The arrives. I knew a long :6rst day was a crack went round behind me and mistake and accommodation problems before my. footing dissolved and had delayed my departure and all I floated away, I fell over backwards so could do was just force myself onward that I lay on my rucksack with my feet towards the hoped for goal. And I and legs over the torrent. I thought of made it. As so often, I just made it. sheep and of beetles as I struggled to The remaining days ofthe trip showed get to my feet. This is a move we do that I didn't need the stove, the extra not practice and, in the company of sleeping bag and the food for an others, simply amusing. Another escape to civilisation. I only needed 'tlnill' was when the combination of the ice axe on one occasion, but that is heat and cold produced snow like enough, and the medical kit and spare quick sand. To have the snow shoe clothing were just extra weight. I sink to knee depth without meeting might have managed without the resistance and then to try to lift it out Walkman but not without the books. carrying a full load ofwet snow. The Eight days alone is a long time, :first time was exciting but then it was

The YRC Bulletin l0 Summer 1997 just hard work which fortunately only easier and with most ofthe waymarks occurred for two or three steps at a in sight, maybe I was over cautious, time. but the best way to make sure one does not need emergency equipment is It is not a route to recommend. The to take it. As usual, I was warmly scenery was similar throughout and it greeted in Ardal, though in Norway is difficult to tell where photograph there seem to be plenty of warm are taken. In summer the lakes will welcomes and kindnesses. A man was show up and there will be greenery repairing one of the huts I visited and and wildlife. In the winter, on ski, it commuted from his home by snow will be travelled more quickly and mobile. He came in to talk a while with varying terrain on which to and to give me an apple and an exercise skill and route finding. With orange, all of which were very the patchiness of the snow, ski would welcome. I travelled to Bergen on the have been no help to me, though quick last Express boat to do the full journey release bindings on the snow shoes from Ardal to Bergen. Ifthe anger of would have been. I walked quite long the locals lasts then it would be distances over the rocks with advisable to use the direct bus the snowshoes on because it became such whole way in future to deny the an effort to bend to remove and express boats the business. Ardal still replace them. A lighter rucksack, as remains one of the easiest places to usual, would have made the travel visit using public transport,

~aY

The YRC Bulletin 11 Summer 1997 'Yorkshire' Faith or Foolishness F. D. Smith in New Zealand 'Never whilst the waves recoil, Beaten from her rugged coast, Never whilst the hills do stand Alan Linford Shall she cease to be our boast. ' Our Club song was first sung at the Angie and I at Milford Sound found Annual Dinner in 1909 and was a joint that the Milford Trail was restricted to effort of Barran, Slingsby and Calvert. one way traffic, we were at the wrong The pseudonym used being Alfred Cecil end and you have to make a Calvert. The difficulties in the musical reservation] Where can we get a boat composition may be attributed to the to cross the sound and climb Mitre musician, the Reverend Samuel Calvert, a Peak? - You cannot, for this you need member of the Handel Festival Chorus. a helicopter and a guide, We beat a My own collection of menus shows that hasty retreat to Hollyford, a small the song was first printed on the 1937 menu. Somehow the penultimate line was settlement 10 km north of The Divide lost and replaced by 'Never whilst the with a new objective to reach a hut waves recoil' from 1959 to 1984. The above Moraine Creek and attempt The original line returned in 1985 but got lost Twins, a peak of 1867m. again in 1986. Back again between 1987 and 1990 but lost again in 1991. Back The Hollyford valley is deep, heavily again between 1992 and 1994. Wrong forested, reaches from the Divide to again in 1995 but right again in 1996. the West Coast and provides the start Worse to come, in the years 1971 to ofthe Hollyford and Routebum Trails. 1973, verses three and four were On the way up the valley we gave a interchanged on the menu. lift to two lads and dropped them off Surprisingly the problem does not seem to at a camp site, whilst we pushed on a have been aired until this year's Dinner few kilometres up the valley and found when, unwittingly, Ian Crowther sang the a park for the campervan about 3 km unauthorised version whilst members read from the start ofthe Hollyford trail. A the true words. quick reconnoitre was essential to :find Claude E. Benson produced an alternative club song in 1911, 'What afine rambling the start ofthe trail up Moraine Creek day' sung to 'Tis a fine hunting day' and and more important the bridges across in 1913 came John Arthur Green's 'Who the Hollyford River and the Creek are the Ramblers' to the air 'The Yeomen since fording is impossible. We were ofEngland'. overtaken by a battered mini van, No doubt 'Yorkshire' was sung annually which surprised us, but even more between 1909 and 1937. It certainly was amazed when we came across the van, at the Club's coming ofage in 1913, when the following were sung: 'Here's a Health unto His Majesty', 'Yorkshire', 'Ourselves', 'West Country Lad, 'On Eekla Moor Baht 'at', 'The Ramblers of Yorkshire', 'Ho Jolly Jenkins, 'Mr Booth', 'The Floral Dance', 'Auld Lang Syne 'and 'God Save the King '. With ten speeches breaking up the singing it lasted from 6.45 to l lpm. Those were the days!

The YRC Bulletin 12 Summer 1997 at the end of the track, and the driver The campervan might be found, erecting a Dipole aerial. We were 25 eventually, nobody knew where we km from the nearest road. What was were and here we were in dense forest it all about I asked, "1'am checking on on a fast flowing river with an armed my deer" said Lewis. man we had just met.

Lewis was a deer hunter, deep in the The trip down river was exhilarating, forest he had corralled deer, fitted under or over huge trees fallen over then with transmitters and, using his deep pools and shallow gravel beds aerial and observing the response on round boulders all at high speed, his oscilloscope he could tell if his swinging left and right. A stop for deer were stressed. Just the man to Lewis to dash off into the forest to direct us to the Moraine track. Well it check his deer whilst we minded the was there, but very faint and he would boat. advise us against an attempt alone, especially since the hut was unusable. Another exhilarating ride with expert handling and we were soon at his boat So we opted for the Hollyford trail, ramp. The ramp, needed to lift the the least popular of the trails in the boat several metres to make sure that Fiordland National Park. Away early it was above flood level, was made along a trail through mainly sub­ from timber and it's winch driven by a tropical forest. Fly catchers were busy Qualcast Lawnmower engine. By round our heads as we came upon dusk we were back in the rain and. hidden creek falls and then went into over a brew we realised that we had the hut for a brew. Surprise; in taken a risk in accepting the trip. It occupation were the two lads we gave was a good day out. Our faith in a lift to yesterday. How had they human nature and judgement in first passed us? They had had a lift up impressions were right but were they river by jet boat. By now we had had justified? enough to damp jungles and decided to retum and head for the open hills, when in walked Lewis, the jet boat skipper. Would we like a trip down the river in his boat? The river was only half a mile away and we would soon be back. We set offfor the river. After a while Lewis disappeared into the jungle and retumed with a rifle, collected from a dump of his, and before we reached the river repeated the process, arriving with another rifle from another dump. Eventually we reached the river, gear and guns handed down into the boat. At this time we had not taken stock of our position. The two lads knew where we were but not who we were and they were offinto the wildemess.

The YRCBulletin 13 Summer 1997 The Troll de Ver Project following year, the rest ofus to plumb the depths of this relatively unknown 1993-1995 system Although at :first viewed as second best to the Mirolda, the Trou Ged Campion. de Ver quickly became a tour de force In the Combe des Foges, high above itself - and so the saga of its the cliffs of the Torrent de Salles, a exploration unfolded. small, rather insignificant hole emits a Many of the cave systems on the strong draught. Indifferent to the Grand Massif south East ofthe Mont ferocity of winter storms, the draught Blanc chain have to be explored is just warm enough to keep the cavity during the winter. Their high flooding open even in the heaviest of snows. potential caused by melting snow from The hole is the entrance to the Trou glaciers during the summer months de Ver, discovered in 1974 by Richard makes exploration impossible. The Maire ofthe 'Speleo Club, Lyon', and only safe time to descend these pushed to a somewhat inconclusive systems is during freezing winter depth of minus 522 metres in the conditions when there is virtually no winter of 1976. danger of flood waters entering the It had never been our original systems. intention to explore this cave system, In January 1994, therefore, two well but in 1992 plans to make a winter equipped teams headed for the snowy descent of the Gouffre Mirolda were Grand Massif Even as they left thrown into turmoil when Anglo England some members of the team French relationships reached an all were still unaware of their actual time low. The 'Club Ursus of Lyon' objective, believing that our focus somewhat insistently refused to grant would be on the Mirolda, others more us permission to explore the Mirolda. aware of the Anglo French problem This had been a grave disappointment were safe in the knowledge that any to all concerned since a considerable attempt would be folly. Two chalets amount of time and effort had been were established as a base camp in spent preparing the expedition. Even a Samoens - the :first a rather old French reconnaissance had been made in alpine house and the second a purpose November 1993, to locate the exact built, though stylish, studio belonging whereabouts of the entrance so that to Madame Rouge. In the ensuing no time would be wasted searching days the team made various journeys the mountainside in difficult winter from Samoens to Flaine. This conditions. approach was chosen because of the It was during this reconnaissance that dangerous avalanche conditions above Stewart Muir and Jon Riley ventured the Torrent de Salles. From Flaine the onto the cliffs above the Torrent de route was made even easier by Salles for purely speleological interest accessing the Telepherique des and decided to locate the entrance to Grandes Platieres, which gives access the Trou de Vel'. In fact two to the Desert de Plate. Once on the entrances were located at that time, summit of this plateau ski the other being the Puits de Solitaire. mountaineering is the only effective It was fr om that moment that the method ofventuring to the Combe des exploration ofthe Trou de Vel' would Foges where the entrance is situated. inspire Stewart Muir and, the

The YRC Bulletin 14 Summer 1997 Trou du Ver p~~tude 2170m ,,~:l_~~ , Solitaire 50

X: 941.67 Y: 121.76 Z: 2120

o lOOm

Active

1. Druinnue on Priubonien sandstone 2. Drainage 01\ Albicn sandstone 3. Main drainage 011 Hautcrivicnquartzite

After Speleo-Club de Lyon 1975-6

This requires traversing the col first 2 vertical pitches. The entrance between the Tete Pelouse and Les pitch had already a rope in place, Verdets. Once through this col the ski faded and worn by ultra-violet rays down through the Combe des Foges over the years, clearly too dangerous was idyllic over untrodden snow to to rely on. We descended through the the entrance of the Trou de Ver awkward entrance slot on our own precariously perched above rope. The 10 metre shaft quickly bells spectacular cliffs. out to reasonable proportions to a Back at the Trou de Ver enough level floor. Although we did not equipment was assembled to enable realise it at that time, this was to be an Stewart Muir, Graham Salmon and ideal storage place for our equipment myself to descend and at least rig the for many months to come. The way on slid away under the chamber wall

The YRC Bulletin 15 Summer 1997 requmng crawling to a passage of on the Trou de Ver. With equipment larger dimensions, ending at the top of in place, it seemed that we had every the second pitch. Ten metres below a chance of success and by caving large breakdown chamber slanted standards a depth ofminus 500 metres away ramp-like into the darkness. did not seem unreasonable, Those This was the start of the long individuals without skis or unable to descending gallery that would take us ski were equipped with snow shoes to to minus 100 metres and to the top of combat excessively deep snow. The the 'big pitch' of 82 metres, jealously following day therefore, saw the teams guarding the access to the lower assembled at the summit of the reaches of the Trou de Ver. With a Grande Platieres, But to our bitter few rope bags assembled at the top of disappointment the weather had this pitch, this was to be the limit of deteriorated to such an extent that it our exploration that day. was felt unwise to attempt to find a Conscious of our return journey we way over to and down the Combe des headed back to the surface to make Foges. The trip was therefore, the most ofwhat daylight we had left. abandoned and everyone retumed to Our companions anxiously awaited Flaine. Storms raged for the following our return at the entrance, already 2 days and the prospect of our being firmly attached to their skis and ready unable to retrieve our equipment in to leave. After a Sh01t debate, a the cave quickly became reality. somewhat unwise decision was made Running out of time, we left the to descend the Combe des Foges to its snowy Samoens to retum to England lowest reaches and eventually reach with virtually halfofthe caving arsenal Samoens by a series of ridges and still in the high Alps. interlocking valleys. The epic nature In May the same year a small but ofthis descent is a St01y in itself The determined group of cavers retumed joumey was to take some 8 hours to the Grand Massif Inexpensive but through avalanche hung country and luxurious lodgings were secured in the traversing precariously in darkness on village of Les Carroz and the team cliff edges high above the Giffre anxiously made preparations to return Valley. Like a small army in retreat to the Trou de Ver in the hope that we ebbed our way through snow clad the equipment would be still in place. pine forest to a horrendous steep In due course we were ascending descent to Samoens itself When we through green sunny alpine meadows eventually arrived back at the chalets that only months ago had been we discovered that the team on the suffocated by snow. Above an Aiguille de Briou had barely forged a altitude of 1600 metres the slopes trail halfway to the Chalet de Criou. were still snow bound and skis were The sheer depth of snow and absence necessary to climb up to the col of skis had made their progress guarding access to the Combe des impossible. They had to bivouac out Foges. On arriving at the entrance we in goat sheds near the Chalet de Trot anxiously descended the first pitch and had planned to return to the elated to find our equipment had not village the following day. been removed. Indeed, everything has After a good days rest and with the been left in place, although we were a two teams reassembled, it was decided little surprised to discover that a that an all out assault would be made rodent had been nibbling through numerous pan's of Wellington boots

1bc YRC Bulletin 16 Summer 1997 yet had left our food supplies seemed even more enticing and untouched! magnificent than the previous year. Although we knew it would be Snowy hillocks had welled up above virtually impossible to descend the the interlocking canyons and runnels cave at that time ofyear, we forlornly forming ways through the terrain. made our way to the top of the 82 A route was carefully chosen and we metre pitch to assess the water levels. skied across to the cave entrance. As expected the pitch was taking a This time it required a degree of steady flow of water and making any excavation but the blow hole feature prospect of descent suicidal. To be of the Trou de Ver remained true to caught on a pitch of this size with form. Pleased by our day's progress, even a slight increase in water would we returned to Flaine to make be a very daunting prospect. preparations for the grand descent. With only 4 in our team, carrying the We woke the following moming to a equipment back up the Combe des beautiful day. Spirits were slightly Foges and down to Flaine was a dampened by threats of further snow Herculean task to say the least. Even later on in the day. Would this render the most seasoned skiers in the team the Combe too dangerous we feared ­ were experiencing difficulty in making not allowing an escape either down to stylish te1emark turns with such heavy Samoens or back up to the Tete packs. Pelouse? But too much time, sweat The Trou de Ver had defeated us and preparation had already been quite decisively and the humiliation of invested in this project and success having to abandon our equipment was was feverishly close if we could just a bitter pill to swallow. However, like focus in on the caving aspect of the many exercises in climbing and caving, trip. While we caved deep into the the experience of defeat can often night we would be indifferent to the strengthen resolve to return better alpine storms raging on the surface. prepared next time. Therefore, Myself, Bruce Bensley and Graham completely ignoring the old adage of Salmon arrived at the entrance that 'once bitten twice shy', rather than afternoon mindful of the arrival of being dissipated, interest in the Trou more snow. We -anchored our skis de Ver increased. near to the cave entrance and quickly Therefore with the onset of another descended the entrance pitch. Our year came new hopes and in the progress to the top of the 'big pitch' Christmas of 1995, a smaller, light was swift. Once through the slot at weight and more refined team were the top, the enormous size ofthe shaft assembled. Equipment was kept to exceeded all expectations. We had the bare minimum, 8 mm ropes were dreamt ofthis place for a year but had chosen in preference to 9 mm ropes, been denied access to its secrets until and 9 mm ropes in preference to 10 now. The void was huge, an mm ropes. Accommodation was incredible 82 metres free fall - the arranged in Flaine itself to reduce any sides of the shaft at times barely need to travel snow bound roads. discernible in the inky darkness. This Almost carbon copy like and like an huge drop had been forged through offering to the Gods, all the equipment the Senonien Shale, a stratigraphy was ferried up to the cave entrance on which seemed to be reminiscent of the first day. The Combe des Foges brick work lattice. On arriving at the

The YRC Bulletin 17 Summer 1997 bottom of the shaft only the faint try and find the top of the 34 metre glimmer of the caver's light above pitch which would mark the beginning could be seen as he embarked on a of the more constricted part of the spiralling journey. cave. Unfortunately our raptures over the After approximately 10 minutes and pitch were quickly brought to earth by with seemingly little effort, I reached the toil that lay ahead. A less grand this exact spot. An old French in situ passage led on to a pitch which was to rope was belayed at the top and herald the beginning of a succession of disappeared into the darkness below. muddy shafts. The often less than In the circumstances I was not vertical nature of these drops prepared to descend alone and decided hampered progress causing rope bags to return to my companions who had to snag. Pitch after pitch caused by this time already made the decision problem after problem Re-belays to return to the surface. It was were often difficult and at times ropes therefore with a mixture offeelings of from previous French expeditions left disappointment and relief that we in place, became entangled in our own slowly started back up the series of ropes. It was with relieftherefore that muddy pitches. At the bottom of the we dropped out of a small window 82 metre pitch we drank soup and eventually in to the Collecteur, the cooked a meal before embarking on main stream passage - though absent the vertical climb above us. The of any sizeable stream at minus 288 actual pitch turned out to be less tiring metres. At this point we established a than we had anticipated but pulling the bivouac and brewed up. tackle up behind us was. With an The potential for flooding at this depth intricate method of pulleys and stops was evident - a place a caver would all rope bags were successfully pulled not want to venture during the to the entrance pitches. Weighed summer months. In winter you were down with rope bags it was like at least safe in the knowledge that climbing the side ofa mountain. only a drastic rise in temperature Having ferried our equipment back to outside could cause difficulties and the base of the entrance pitch, Bruce this was highly unlikely in the snow was the first to ascend the rope. He bound Grand Massif in January. was greeted at the surface by swirling Nevertheless the caving had taken it's spindrift and howling wind. We later toll on us and the weight of caving discovered that it had been snowing rope bags had required a redoubling of for almost 12 hours! Our moist our efforts to reach this depth. caving suits soon began to chill and The morale ofthe team was low - our our damp harnesses around our waist situation seemed remote and our froze to a cardboard consistency. The backup was negligible. Slightly prospect of hypo-thermia was ever refreshed by food and drink we present in our minds. The weather ventured on crossing deep pools and was so bad that we only had limited strange but beautiful mud formations visibility. For a moment Bruce at a depth of minus 300 metres. We thought that he could see the Tete soon encountered huge drops that Pelouse appearing and disappearing in required awkward traversing without the distance through swirling mist. On the aid of a safety rope. It was closer examination this apparition was decided that I would continue alone to nothing but a small snowy hillock only

'The YRCBulletin 18 Summer 1997 yards away from the entrance! We to slide and completely engulf me I were faced with a dilemma. If we thought? By now Bruce and Graham decided to sit it out we would have had jettisoned their skis and waded insufficient food supplies and warm into the deep snow and began clothing to last indefinitely. Besides, furiously digging at my feet. I was how long would it continue snowing, free in a second but one of my ski hours or days? 'The more snow that sticks was still missing. To continue fell the greater the prospect of without it would seriously impede avalanches on the Tete Pelouse, the progress but this wasn't the place for obstacle that separated us from our a stop and search. Luckily in minutes warm beds in Flaine. Bruce located the missing article and In a spirited fashion we donned our we both struggled back to a position skis and only carried light weight ofrelative safety. emergency packs. We would retrieve We were all visibly shaken by the the rest of our equipment during the experience, Bruce and Graham never following days. Therefore rope bags having witnessed an avalanche victim were left at the bottom ofthe entrance before! Again we were faced with a pitch. It has snowed so much that it dilemma, should we cany on up the appeared to have changed the very Combe or go back to the relatively, terrain with which we had become safety ofthe Cave? We were only 10 familiar - the small intricate system of or so minutes away from the entrance ' snowy canyons were difficult to but it was snowing so furiously that' identify in the ahnost white-out our ski tracks were completely conditions. covered. We had visions of Choosing a line and leading off I cut wandering too close to the slopes the side ofa seemingly innocuous easy adjacent to the cave entrance which angled snow slope. Almost hung precariously above the cliffs of instantaneously, but in slow motion, the Torrent de Salles. It was with this' the whole slope slid nonchalantly in mind that we decided to continue away, taking me with it. up the Combe to take on the challenge of the Tete Pelouse and attempt to Only metres down the slope the slide cross the col to Flaine. stopped as quickly as it had started, I was unhurt and my head and shoulders Fatigued by twenty-four hours of were still above the snow. I was bent caving and ski mountaineering, ' over by the sheer weight of snow and somehow we accelerated up the centre my skis had acted like belays on my of the Combe with purpose. Despite feet, locking me into a position where the poor visibility I felt I had visited I could not move my legs. The very this place often enough to know its article that could lead me out of this intricacies, moods and deceptions. snowy hell had trapped me. I Before long I could just make out an feverishly dug towards my feet to old wooden post, perhaps a marker release my bindings but my contorted from bygone days: a detail we had all position prevented me from releasing remembered. It was still high above the binding on my left ski. Bruce and the snow line, unchanged from the day Graham appeared to be looking on before. Immediately I thought, this helplessly like shocked bystanders. I augured well because it meant that the surveyed the slope above me hanging snow on the slope above us had not in deadly silence. Would it continue been subject to the same accumulation

The YRC Bulletin 19 Slimmer 1997 that we had witnessed lower down in cover ofsnow. The helicopter seemed the Combe. We confidently climbed ready and the cash payment had been towards the top of the col and in settled but then, to our absolute reaching it experienced a great feeling horror, the pilot casually announced ofrelief All that remained was to :find that it would be unsafe to attempt to our way along the small ridge and then land or even hover in the Combe des the route down onto the piste which Foges. There was simply too much would lead us to F1aine. Far below us snow around. The deal was off and it we could hear the sound of would be with disbelief that people explosions, an attempt by piste would listen to our story when we workers in Flaine to create controlled returned to England, and indeed they avalanches to avert the accumulation did. of snow above the village. We In the following May we returned to gradually descended below the cloud France as in 1994. The gear was line and could see the village below. retrieved and the project's stalwart Piste workers were bemused to see us members agreed that they could not ski by in such appalling conditions. subject themselves to this humiliation However, after questing where we had again. With some sadness the Trou de been and realising that we were Ver project was definitely over. Time Speleo's, they were satisfied by the and effort expended on such an explanation. apparently small hill in retrospect Graham crashed out in the apartment seemed quite puzzling. The full might and Bruce and I fell asleep over a beef of two well equipped expeditions had burger in one ofthe cafes. The rest of been completely thwarted. the team had gone shopping in Cluses. The dangers of high alpine caving in For the next two days the weather winter cannot be emphasised enough. continued unsettled and avalanche risk The remoteness of entrances and the closed the piste. Going to the Combe commitment to venture deep des Foges was out ofthe question. As underground with minimum support is for the equipment left in the cave, we more than most cavers would be felt confident that we had a plan to prepared to take on. Those involved secure its return. After our experience need not only to be cavers but the previous year we were not going mountaineers experienced in the full to be caught out again. Discussions range ofwinter skills. It remains to be had taken place to use the services of seen whether the Trou de Ver will a local helicopter pilot since the ever receive a descent from British weather forecast was for an cavers and if any of the members of improvement on the Saturday of our this expedition will be amongst them. departure. We felt that we could just I suspect the latter is unlikely. do it in time. The ignominy ofhaving to leave our gear again was unthinkable and we were adamant that Those involved in the project were: the cave would not deny us what was Ralph Atkinson Stewart Muir rightfully ours, or so we thought. Bruce Bensley Shaun Penny Ged Campion Peter Price On Saturday morning we awoke to a Joel Corrigan Ion Riley beautiful alpine day, not a whisper of Alan F1etcher Graham Salmon wind or a flurry of snow. The mountains were clad in a deep pristine John Maltin Mike Wooding

TIle YRC Bulletin 20 Summer 1997 Expedition Diary flysheet was then erected in the vacant space to serve as a dining-room. Personal 1957- Nepal boxes and food boxes make excellent Maurice Wilson tables and seats. As usual it started to May 4, Camp 3 to Base Camp. rain in the afternoon, turning to hail and Once more there had been lots of snow then back again to rain. The weather overnight, and the tents took a lot of really is appalling after each mid-day. digging out. We had our porridge raw but the scene outside was beautiful. It is hard May 6, Base Camp to realise that our three friends lie We were all up at 5.00 a.m. and I was entombed in the glacier above. pleased when Andy informed me that he Arthur and I left to do some surveying at and I were to reconnoitre the way down to Camp 2 loaded with all our usual gear. the Dorje Lakpa glacier. Arthur and Dan, We got several rays and elevations at this with sherpas, are going down to Camp 2 station which were helpful. Avalanches to retrieve equipment. I had no desire to continue to fall all round with great go, again, to that glacier. The others left frequency. I have never heard so many in just before we did. one area. As cloud enveloped us we We left at 6.00 a.m. and got up the steep moved down to Camp 1. slopes above the camp and reached the We found it very difficult to find the route pass in 2112 hours. From there we went through the icefall in the mist, combined down the snow slopes on the other side, with a perfect crescendo of stonefalls looking for a suitable way down. Clouds from the cliffs on our right. Certainly, the interfered with our total view of the Dorje icefall had altered a good deal and needed Lakpa ridge. On our return, we glissaded every care. Dan and Ang Temba met us down the snow slopes on this side and at Camp 1 and escorted us back to Base. inspected the ruined shacks in the corrie The route across had altered considerably. above Base Camp. At the former Scottish The stone couloir was a perfect menace Ladies camp, I found an old basketball and more grass was now exposed on the boot. Nima and his brother awaited our slopes. It started to rain just before we arrival. got in and I got rather wet. The rain has They brought bad news. They gave us a continued for several hours and life about note from Arthur to the effect that Dan camp is muddy and unpleasant. had broken his arm and Lakpa Tsering had broken his leg while on the traverse. May 5, Base Camp. All were at Camp 1, so, Andy went across There was a little inclination to with morphia and other medical. turn out this morning. Nine supplies. I remained at Base' days away from Base Camp Camp with Nima Lama and his makes one appreciate its brother. (Exchanged Ryvita tin relative comforts. George was for flint etc and some food for making his final preparations to potatoes.) Soon after, we had a leave for Kathmandu. We all terrific thunderstorm with lots took a number of photographs of snow. I was amazed to see and George, Murari and Pasang how these two padded about the got away in due course. We snow in bare feet. Eventually, then set about making the camp they installed themselves, more ship-shape. complete with a fire, behind a The tent in which I was boulder. I hardly expected sleeping was moved to the Andy's party to return from position formerly occupied by Camp 1, but they did turn up Arthur's 'Pal-e-Mine'. I shall just as the storm drew to its occupy it tonight, alone. A tent close.

The YRC Bulletin 21 Summer 1997 The YRC Oman Caving Trip Ged Campion

This caving expedition proved to be a complete success. Four members of the YR.C. caving contingent, Ged Campion, Harvey Lomas, Bruce Bensley and a prospective member Alan Fletcher, joined with other cavers, some already living in Muscat, to travel to the Selmeh area in the mountains of northern Oman. The base camp was established on 1st Despite the small amount of February 1997, on a limestone precipitation in the Oman mountains, plateau, 1500 metres above sea level. the caves hold a considerable volume Local support was given to the of water stored from one year to the expedition by the Navy and Police next. The exploration often required services, supplying equipment, food swimming along canals and across and water to the camp. small lakes! The temperature in the The Oman 'Winter" (25 0 C) made it caves was warm enough to utilise possible to move around reasonably cotton boiler suits etc. All access to comfortably but local knowledge the system except the resurgence, suggested that rainfall, albeit some 7 kilometres from the base camp infrequent, is more likely to occur in was via deep shafts. The Seventh Hole the winter! We quickly realised that for example, involved 250 metres of given the very hard, arid land surface, abseilingbefore one was able to arrive flooding in the caves would be at the horizontal passage. virtually instantaneous making the The Selmeh system is now the longest exploration very serious indeed. in the Middle East and certainly the Four existing caves were known and deepest. There is still much potential originally explored to a limited extent for caving in Oman and the amount of by a small American team in 1985. limestone in the area holds much However, the team was too small to promise for the future discovery of make a significant impact on caves. TIle team would like to thank extending the caves. All the caves the YR.C. for providing funding for discovered had leads that just needed this expedition. pursuing. A full report willfollow soon. Over a two week period, the caves

Three Window Cave,. Funnel Cave, Arch Cave and Seventh Hole, were linked creating a super system some 12 kilometres in total length. The cave passage discovered was no less than spectacular. Huge phreatic tunnels with beautiful formations were found and the caving was very spotting.

'lbe YRC Bulletin 22 Summer 1997 Pic de Monne: a cautionary tale Derek Collins I had not had a day out for several weeks so Pie de Monne, a few miles south ofLourdes, seemed a good idea. From the roadhead I followed a path marked on.the map. Nobody had told The ridge ahead was spiky in best me about paths in the Pyrenees and I Skye style except it was a lot bigger could not understand why the path and the gaps were impassable. I was so faint and why there was no one fiddled about for a long time ­ around in mid-August. In fact when I Brashers are not good rock boots ­ approached a nasty looking snake and finally got down into a combe in lying on the path it was a bit peeved at which, according to my map, there being disturbed. I clambered up off were ski trails. No doubt there are in the path! winter. At this juncture I looked at Effectively the route was up a very my map very carefully and did some steep field which became scree. The serious prioritising. My wife was with track almost disappeared and the scree a group who had the clout to get out became large boiler plates but I was the French Army so I even had to face able to scramble up gullies and began that possibility consider the to feel lonely. After a bit, a scrambly embarrassment! line to the ridge could be made out. I The worst forty minutes of my felt better as I was fairly confident mountaineering life ensued. I went at there would be a ski-station at the top. a 500 ft, steep slippy scree slope like a I clambered towards the ridge looking headless chicken and felt poorly at the back to ensure I could reverse the lot top, another col. However, there ifrequired and after a few moves up a were two tiny tarns just like the map little chimney, popped out onto the said and the ski paths cut through the ridge. main ridge and down to the car. No To my horror the other side was problem I thought! Even getting to overhanging, then vertical, going the first gap required two or three down for miles to my car. Uhml I attempts. 'Good luck' I thought to thought and started scrambling up the any skier going down there. The next ridge. Three large vultures wheeled gap looked better, there was even a nearby demoralising me still further. tiny locked hut. I clambered down The tiny exposed top ofPie de Monne hanging onto a waste pipe and finally - 2724 ill, harboured no ski-station or got onto steep grass. The marmots cairn or litter just a few vultures and choughs mocked as I sat there overhead. I opened my rations, two thinking. After this it was an mars bars and 0.5 litres of water. By interminable walk down dusty roads the way I was wearing shorts, no gouged out for the winter skiers. sweater and a lightweight cagoule. I made it for the beer, lots ofit and After all I was out on a quick few nobody knew any different! hours bash, I even had a date with my wife and others in the Brancardiers bar A cautionary tale? Leave your timing in Lourdes in a few hours. flexible when making dates.

The YRC Bulletin 23 Summer 1997 A Short Scottish Holiday flippers, nor that they have so many sharp teeth). It was gone. Adrian D. Bridge The first pitch wasn't bad, the second, an overhanging crack at 5b, was not Having made the briefest of too pleasant, being damp, with arrangements, Andy Wells, Ian Bridge rounded sandy holds and huge and I arrived in Thurso on a Saturday wooden wedges banged into the crack afternoon during August 1996, in time (perhaps left from the 1967 filming). to camp explore the town and get a Third and fourth pitches were easier, fish supper. Next morning, drove to but with very sparse gear, owing to John O'Groats, (which was the friable rock. The final pitch was surprisingly attractive), and then probably the best, a vertical corner of Dunnet Head, the most northerly point good rock between two massive of the British mainland and which has pillars that formed the top section of magnificent vertical cliffs, before the Old Man. It was a bit catching the noon feny from Scrabster disconcerting to be climbing up to Stromness on Orkney. looking at the sea between one's feet The two hour journey was most 400 ft below, looking through the enjoyable, with fine views of Hoy and gaps in the corner to the sea the other the Old Man, itself dwarfed by the side and hoping that the pressure of 3OO+m high St. John's Head just north bridging up would't push the pillars ofit. apart! A short drive to Houton, a ferry south On the top, the wind was blowing too to Lyness on Hoy and a bit more strongly for it to feel safe to stand up. driving, brought us to Rackwick Bay, We wrote in the summit book and where we camped for a couple of then abseiled down the top pitch nights. An evening stroll for a couple before stopping to eat in relative calm. of miles over the cliff brought us to It had taken 4% hours to get up, and the stack we'd come to climb. The took nearly two to get down. Each ab way down to the base ofthe Old Man was from a mass of indeterminate tat, of Hoy, whilst not too difficult, threaded round the rock, knotted to required reasonable balance on narrow old pitons and itself Anyone piece zig-zag paths across steep grass on looked quite suspect, but we gambled crumbly sandstone cliffs. that collectively they'd be OK - and they were. Nevertheless, 1 was glad In the clear evening light, with a to get down without incident. strong sea crashing against rocks, plentiful seals, gulls, cormorants, Our next venture was to The Old Man fulmers nad skuas, and just us three of Steer. We had only a vague around, the place had a sort of location and a brief description of the elemental magic about it. Next route at Hard Severe. Having morning, the weather wasn't quite so survived Gust) a fierce midge attack , good, but dry and windy. Andy and I we set offfrom close to the lighthouse prepared to climb, whilst Ian checked in thick fog, on a northerly bearing for a seal pup we'd found, seemingly hoping to hit the cliff edge after a trapped in some rocks the night couple of miles where the Old Man before. (1 hadn't realised that they stood. have such long claws under their soft

The YRe Bul1etin 24 Summer 1997 Well, you know what it's like trying to slant on double ropes so that none of walk on a bearing over rough terrain, us would have to swim and spent too you never are quite where you hope to long trying to rig up such. At one be - and we didn't even know quite point Andy, retreating from an where that was! So after about three unsuccessful foray, was unable to hours and a lot of, shall we call it prevent himself being lowered into the 'prospecting', we found what could be water whilst fully dressed. We a faint outline of a sea stack. Just to eventually settled for a simple reverse be sure, we dumped our bags and ofthe way across, and I swam went north to find the end ofthe Point As darkness had fallen, so the fog . of Stoer which, half a mile away, was blanket returned. We stood on the out of the fog below about 100 ft. mainland cliff top at 11 pm with a This allowed us to be more sure that vague idea of walking south to the what we had found was the right car. After an hour and a half of stack. Back at it, the fog was stumbling about in trackless peat bog beginning to clear and we found a terrain we covered the two miles (as tentative 'path' down the two hundred the crow could have flown - perhaps) plus feet of cliff Roping up gave an and got to the car. Midges were still a illusion ofsafety to the descent. problem so we slept in the car. The Andy stripped off and swam across. I midges were still a problem in the threw him an 11 mm rope and we morning so we drove off straight away fixed up a traverse line. Bit by fit, to Lochinver for breakfast. clothing, gear, Ian and I got across, Next stop F01t William, where we set dry shod and set about the climb. The off to look at - and hopefully climb ­ photo accompanying the route Centurion on Cam Dearg buttress description (in the guide we'd left in above the CIC hut. When we got the car by mistake) showed men on there it was dripping with water and the light side of the stack on the first slime so we settled for Ordinary Route pitch. by no means was this HS (later 1 or some such nondescript way up found to be 5c in another book). We the buttress. A walk over the top and traversed left and then up in four round to Cam Mor followed before a pitches at about VS, passed fuhner descent to F01t William where another chicks who rose up on their nests, fish supper finished the day. squawked and made puking motions. It seems as if the technique doesn't Next day brought rain,so we left develop too early, as only one Scotland. Passing the Lakes, the managed to project liquid at me and I weather was beautiful, so we detoured was able to twist so it missed me. into Langdale and walked up to fortunately, as on Hoy, the parents left Gimmer Crag. Both Andy and I had us alone even though they were flying long had a desire to climb Kipling all around us. Groove, so we did. Yet again we stumbled off the hill in the dark, but Climbing and abseiling three on a rope not too late for a pint in the ODG. It takes some time: with the tyrolean to rounded offa great week. set, the route to find and not starting to climb until possibly two pm, it was quite late by the time we were ready to get back to the mainland. We had hazy schemes about abseiling on a

The YRC Bulletin 25 Summer 1997 He was even more appalled at the foot Flanders of the crag as he watched Ray Tim Josephy scooting up dripping ramps of vegetation. By the time we arrived at We first saw it on one of those the foot ofWestern Gully he was peat magical occasions that you never stained, sweaty and shaking. When he really believe unless you were there. found out he had been carrying both Walking along the Black Ladders in ropes in his sack he really knew the freezing cloud late one winter world was out to get him. He was afternoon, our white world slowly distinctly unimpressed with the day so turned to one of orange fire and then far. the clouds sank below the high peaks to reveal a spectacular sunset over Ray led off up steep grooves in the Holyhead Mountain. There in front of arete. After 70ft or so he ground to a us, soaring out of the depths of Cwm halt and in no time was back at the Llafar and glowing in the evening light start. "Here you are, youth," he said was a slender arrow of rock, boldly "I've put the gear in, you should be outlined against the snow. It was too OK now." The youth climbed so fast much to hope for that it was we didn't see how he did it; nor did we unclimbed, and sure enough, perusal realise held left his sack behind. "We'll of the guidebook that evening have to split his load" I said, as I confirmed our fears. Nevertheless, retired to take a photo. By the time I once seen, it had to be climbed. got back, Ray was on his way and the sack was still there. Muttering serious We went up several times during the imprecations, Istuffed the sack into summer, but always the rock was mine and followed. The initial streaming with water and we ran grooves were reasonable until they ran away. Finally, after the driest August out on the edge of the arete, whose in living memory we were there again, sharp edge suckered you into an and this time we had a secret weapon. irreversible layback to nothing. A He was a youth, reared on the desperate lungeinto a shallow corner Llanberis slate, full of terms like and some frantic pedalling left me glad "rockovers'', "dynos" and "6b moves". there was no one around to watch. We had told him he was there to learn about real climbing but in truth he was The second pitch crossed a steep wall our insurance policy. to a corner with a big roof Ray led off, showering the youth with mud We reached the huge boulders under and stones as he rooted for protection; Llech Ddu to find the shadiest spot the youth was deeply unimpressed. occupied by a Carneddau stallion. He Eventually, Ray spreadeagled himself eyed us malevolently, broke wind across the roofat full stretch, tight leg vo1canically, and having thus ensured shaking magnificently. "He's going to vacant possession of his shelter, fall" said the youth. "Never!" I wandered off to bully his harem. We replied, "He always climbs like that." stayed out in the sun and gazed up at Seconds later, Ray was dangling, six the vastness of the Black Ladders, feet out from the rock, upside down surely one ofthe finest mountain walls and revolving slowly. "Oh bother" he south of Scotland. The youth was said, or something. With a violent appalled; held never had to walk so far effort he righted himself and rushed before. back to the fray, This time it went

TIle YRe Bulletin 26 Summer 1997 easily and he disappeared from view. into the holdless chimney. Pretty soon It was only when I reached the roof it was evident that my upward that I realised I still had the youth's progress had a small but inexorable sack. Under the circumstances I think westward vector. Just as this vector the tight rope was entirelyjustified. was on the point of increasing exponentially, my hand fell into the I led the third pitch floating on air most magnificent jug imaginable and I without the extra weight. It was sheer was saved. Somehow or other, sitting delight, the inevitable overhang giving on the belay, my leg dangled over the onto steep eat's tongue slabs and edge, unintentionally concealing the ending on a splendid pulpit, just big crucial jug; the youth fell off three enough for three. We stopped for times and has held my climbing ability lunch, only three pitches done, but .. ill awe ever since, already 700ft up the crag. Far below, our friend the stallion and his mares It was clear the serious climbing was were the only signs of life in all the over and we solo'd up a couple ofeasy world. The youth unpacked his sack. ribs to arrive on top of the ridge. As Out came fresh rolls, filled with we lay watching the setting sun even smoked ham and salad, a bag of the youth had to admit he was peaches and a thermos of freshly impressed. "I'm impressed," he said, squeezed orange juice. "No point in "but I'm hungry too." "Oh I never us all opening our sacks, there isn't carry food on the hills " said Ray. room" said Ray, helping himself to a "But ifyou're quick you can buy me a roll. The youth looked mutinous but pint in the Dougie." And with that he held his peace. was off, bald head twinkling in the evening sun as he raced down to meet Lunch over we turned our attention to the rising tide ofnight. the rock once more. A cunning tunnel behind a vast flake brought us to a Flanders 715ft HVS Brown, Crew, Alcock and Lowe,1969 mighty groove running up the left wall ofWestern Gully. Ray led it in style, making light of a terrifyingly rounded layback at the top. So did the youth, Bothy & Campsite at Dundonnell so perhaps it's just me. Airy ribs and Mike Hartland recommends these to steep walls, all on the very arete members wishing to walk, climb, 'Munro bag' or simply 'get away' to this eventually landed us on a little turret, mountain wilderness. The converted stone connected to the main crag by a byre sleeps 9-12 with a peat stove, gas rickety bridge ofboulders. Across the lighting, hot showers and toilet: all for gap a horrible V chimney leered down about £2.50 per night. A metalled road at us. from Dundonnell House runs six miles to "You're kidding!" said the youth, Badrallach Farm. The view across Little aghast. Secretly I agreed, but loss of Loch Broom to An Teallach alone is face was unthinkable. Setting off worth the fee. Let's hope that accommodation such as this and across the bridge I could have wished Inchnadamph Lodge can revitalise club to be almost anywhere else. The base meets in the far North West. of the chimney was filled with loose blocks, bound in place with Contact Badrallach Bothy, Croft 9, spidersweb and pennywort. I levitated Badrallach, Dundonnell, by Garve, Ross­ past the blocks, trying to push them shire IV23 2QP into place as I went and threw myself Telephone: 01854633281

The YRC Bulletin 27 Summer 1997 Monte Baldo - Lake Garda lain Gilmour When you discover that special delightful place, the temptation is to tell nobody, and to keep it to yourself However, since no YRC man would dream of idling by a crystal clear trout lake and eating heavenly peach flavoured ice cream, or attending an outdoor opera in a Roman arena, I feel free to tell you about it. Lake Garda is the largest of the Italian lakes, and is fed with clear pure water from the limestone mountains to the North, from the West and from Monte Baldo to the East. A good 1:50,000 map is published by Lake Garda is 30 miles long by 11 miles Kompass, "Lago di Garda, Monte wide, and can easily absorb the many Baldo", and this is quite adequate for yachts and fast motor boats which the mountain trips and for information on Italians enjoy. The water buses or the mountain refuges. fast hydrofoils will take you to explore other parts ofthe lake. A typical route from Castelletto rises by ancient tracks through leafy hazel woods Verona is 15 miles away, and the old for 3000 feet to a public road through Roman arena has nightly performances Prada. The 654 marked path then rises of opera. To join 10,000 other people to Rifugio Telegrafo at 7000 feet, under a starlight sky and watch Aida passing through dramatic limestone with a cast of some 200, is quite a scenery, There are up to a dozen refuges spectacle! There are two types of which could be used. tickets for the opera, the numbered seats low down in the arena, and the un­ The ridge of Monte Baldo is around 7 numbered terrace seats where you take miles long, and includes sections pot luck and sit on a marble slab. Ifyou described as "suitable for climbers only" have a terrace ticket and go into the but mostly with good paths. Ascending arena early, you will experience a stream from the level of Lake Garda, one of cushion hirers, and people selling would ideally like to stay at least one beer, ice creams, and sandwiches. night at a refuge, but ascending from Performances start at dusk, and as the one ofthe higher roads, the ridge could overture commences, the audience light be explored in day trips. The views of up thousands oftiny candles, contrasting the lake and the mountains to the north with the stars overhead. The sense of are superb. occasion was magnificent, and it was We stayed at a hotel in Bardolino on the midnight before we left the arena. lake shore, a pleasant little village with If you feel like a lazy holiday with an marina, cafes and near by camp sites. In odd hill thrown in, then why not give the evening, a promenade around the thisa try? streets was an entertainment in itself

The YRC Bulletin 28 Summer 1997 hot mud pool after crossing a very wide outwash of climbed several hundred feet to black lava sand by means of a wooden Svartifoss, a spectacular waterfall bridge (partially destroyed during which pours over the ends of November 1996 when part of the horizontal basaltic columns which lie Vatnajokull icecap melted through on uptight columns of the same rock. volcanic eruption and caused From there a moorland path eventually damaging flooding). Whilst staying led us to an enormous glacier for a few days at the Shafterfell Hotel, descending from yet another point of my companion and I arrived at the Vatnajokull. Joku1sarlon lagoon. A tongue of Our next objective was Akureyri, glacier descended into the lagoon and Iceland's second city, almost at the we took a boat trip among the head of the long inlet from the Arctic icebergs suitably clad in red Ocean. A most attractive city it is 1ifejackets. Fairly near here, we were too. To get there we took a plane taken by a fanner to Ingolfshofdi from Reykjavik international airport. across the sands, and climbed up a It tool less than half an hour. We very steep slope of dry black sand to spent a pleasant moming in the town, reach the grassy summit. It appears to be an island, but at it's base a long and narrow strip oflowland joins it to the mainland. On the summit we encountered countless sea birds. It is no exaggeration to say that there were tens ofthousands ofpuffins, with their gaily coloured beaks, perched on perilous ledges along the cliffs. From the visitors' centre of the National Park of Shafterfell, we

lbc YRC I3ullctin 30 Summer 1997 or should I say city. The main However, up the river is another shopping street is pedestrianised, and famous waterfall, Godafoss, with to what smart shops there are, The it's south a lake, Myvatn, dotted with waterfront is delightfully arranged. weird volcanic formations, June and Colourful gardens abound. The July church is an unusual one and very are good times to visit Iceland, but modem: about fifty years old. We not Myvatn as it is often plagued with were thtilled to learn that the central midges at that time of year. It is panel of the east window came from nevertheless a fantastic drive around the old Coventry Cathedral: it was the lake. A short distance from the rescued from the remains of that lake speleologists will be interested to cathedral following the World War II note, is a special cave: Grojtagoa if I blitz. The other windows of the remember rightly. It was entered church were designed by a firm in down a twelve foot rocky slope to a Exeter, Devon, J.Whipple & Co. 'path' of s011s. Alongside the path is Whilst in Akureyri, we stayed at what a stream of lovely hot water. was once a farm, but the fanner had Wouldn't it be delightful to be able to developed it into a very attractive wade along Lost John's master cave in hotel with en suite facilities and a hot water after having drenched in the licence. The drinks were far cheaper Thunderstorm Depot. than we had met elsewhere. In the north-east again is the Asbyrgi Our first trip fr om Akureyri was to Gorge which leads through a wooded Husavik, one of the most northerly area down to a crystal clear pool fishing centres in the world. I stood complete with ducks. It had, though, alongside a huge vat of fish and held no apparent outlet. A lovely circular up a large herring and shouted 'Any walk took us about an hour. advance on fifty Kronur' and an array Then, still in the northern area, is of photographers appeared from Namaskard with its colourful mud nowhere! pools, the centres ofwhich are thrown up every few minutes by means of a natural steam vent. These we watched at close quarters. Some of the most violent ones were roped off The piece de resistance in this area is, of course, Dettifoss, the most powerful falls in Europe. It is ahnost breath-taking - the warmer and sunnier the weather the more water roars over the oblique precipice. We had enjoyed ten days of sunshine so far with only the odd white cloud now Husavik has a unique church and a and again but no rain. As we very polished and up-to-date museum approached Dettifoss though, black with a centre-piece of one of the few clouds came over and extra large rain and indeed the largest polar bears ever drops' fell but not for very long. caught in Iceland. However, that Sh011 spell of bad weather added greatly to the awesome

The YRC Bulletin 31 Summer 1997 power of nature. Below, the river wishes. When we first climbed this winds it's way down a magnificent hill, Helgafell, we did not realise it was canyon for several miles. the place which could make our wishes come true... so we had to climb A long and fantastic trip by a mini-bus it again. took us from Akureyri to the long peninsula of Snaefellsness on the west I have found it difficult to convince coast, where we spent three nights at friends in England that every day we Stykkisholmur. It's colourful harbour had a picnic lunch outside, sitting on is protected by a huge outcrop of dry grass or heather and even warm fluted rock bathed in the sunshine for rocks. eleven hours a day - at least in the These lunches were provided by our summer. We climbed Helgafell just guide and consisted of coffee, tea, south of the town to get a wide view mineral water, lashings of superb of the many islands in the bay to the bread, butter, slices of ham, tongue, north, then visited them at close cheese and fish paste with perhaps a quarters in a large passenger boat. custard and sweet biscuits. At lunch Whilst we are getting close-up times we were always 'far from the photographs of cormorants, puffins maddening crowd'. and the like, some of the crew have dropped nets and before returning to On our final day we journeyed back to harbour we taste generous portions of Reykjavik and visited the Pearl, a a great variety ofshell fish straight out comparatively new domed ofthe sea. Glasses ofwhite wine are construction high above the city handed down and we drink to the centre. It contains a miniature geyser health ofall. with a great colunm ofwater spouting up from time to time. Of course there TIle south coast of the peninsula is is a bar and restaurant and it is very wild, and we explored it's reached by a lift. abundant spectacular basaltic formations. In parts the load is At the huge duty-free shop at Keflavik literally sandwiched between the sea airport I got some much better and the high ground. The latter rises bargains than I've found at many other to the ice cap. places abroad, but perhaps I'd better keep quiet about that. When I look back on our journey so many attractive places come to mind such as the original cottages and tiny churches, all with roofs of turf Secluded gardens full of gay flowers, coniferous forests and a hill we climbed without looking back, the promise ofgood lock and good health provided we walked to the grave of Gourun Osvifursdottir and made the sign ofthe cross over it. Then walk in silence up the mountain looking neither right nor left. Finally, having reached the top, walk into the rocky quany and whilst looking towards the east, quietly and sincerely make three

'TIle YRC Bulletin 32 Summer 1997 A Slice ofHistory: the same John Ball who was last man The Yorkshire Climbers on the N.W. Girdle ofAlmscli:ffe. Mountaineering Club. ~v) Five letters from people interested Bill Todd ill joining. When Ron Hirst was active in the The quantity ofinformation yielded by Y.M.C. thirty odd years ago he told the Meet Reports Book is not me proudly "I was in the proper consistent with its weight. There are Yorkshire Mountaineering Club,, Bill less than twenty meets fully reported. I'll show you some of our old dinner I find it hard to believe that these were menus." And sure enough next time the only meets that took place Joan and 1visited his house at Buckley between the 23 March 1946 and the Avenue he showed us a menu for the 3rd June 1950. Perhaps there was a Yorkshire Climbers Mountaineering failure of communication between Club Annual Dinner at Horton in meet leaders. 1 would hesitate to Ribblesdale in the late forties, What suggest that, like a well known club at he didn't mention was that Agnes, his the present day, half the members wife, had baked a cake which was couldn't read and the other half enjoyed by all the members as part of couldn't write. Certainly some ofthe the festivities. meets on the 1947 programme are not mentioned in the meet reports book. This last piece of information I have gleaned from a YCMC. Meets Report But it does contain some gems, The Book which has been sent up by first entry gives details of two new former member from Ransley of':- routes at Hebden Gill led by Ron Hirst Westcott, Orchard Gate, Esher, and J. Greaves respectively. These Surrey, KT10 8HY. have been lost in the mists oftime and are not even mentioned in Brian With the book, an imposing 262 page Evans' 1957 Gtitstone Guide. 1 hard back "Minute Book", was a few expect they have been renamed and old letters and papers which are most claimed by a subsequent ascensionist. interesting. Quite a lot of the meet reports These include.- describe pot-holing. Gingling Hole and Hardrawkin Hole feature in 1947 (i) list ofofficers and syllabus (horrible ~ word) for 1942 Sell Gill and Disappointment Pot (ii) Undated letter from Charles to 1948. Meets were held at Coniston, Donald with list of24 members Ogwen, Skye and Glencoe. The (ill) Letter from Mr. Kilbum of the Glencoe meet was at Chtistmas 1947 Hill Inn, two of the meebmers staying on for Chapel-le-Dale offering dinner at five Hogmanay. Two magnificent days shillings (25p) plus two shillings relieved the general bad weather and (lOp) members grabbed Bidean and Aonach per head. Eagach. (iv) Letter from Leeds University Mount-aineering Club dated 8 Dec One ofthe most successful meets was 1948, accepting an invitation to send the January 1947 walking meet where two guests to the YCMC Dinner and the leader, P.B. Thomson had signed by John Ball, almost certainly circularised members and booked

The YRCBulletin 33 Summer 1997 accommodation at Malham Youth Appendix 1 Hostel. The walk went over Extract from Meet Report of the Hebden Gill Fountains Fell and via Dambrook Crag meet on 23 March 1946. House to Grassington to catch the bus New Routes Climbed. home. No cars and vans in those "Friction" 60' v.s. days, not even motor bikes. Youth 1.22' A slab is climbed for 10' on meagre Hostels insisted on travel by 'own holds followed by a fine balance move onto a energy'. large ledge. Slight traverse to left and the rest is climbed on two footholds. Belay round large jammed block. The last entry in the meet reports 2.The crack is climbed to the summit of the book is for 3rd June 1950 and the falling/filling? block. Belay round tree. meet is described as the 'first meet of 3. Semi layback to the bottom of overhang the now re-formed YCMC' Perhaps which is climbed direct. Very strenuous. the club suffered a tamporary demise, First ascent R. Hirst. "Jerry Wall" 80' V.DifJ hence the fact that there are no meets 1.55' The wall opposite Jerry & Ben's to recorded in 1949, an exceptionally large tree belay. good summer incidentally. Something 2. 25' Direct climb up the wall and traverse similar happened with the Rock and right for 10'. Awkward move to the end of Ice I seem to remember. It would the overhang. Belay round tree at top. J. Greaves led Messrs Shaw and Hirst up this appear however, that the reformed one. YCMC. did not rise from the ashes like the R&I because I can find no entry after this June 1950 meet. Appendix 2. List of members & number of appearances in Of course, there was National Service meet reports: H.Almond (1), M.Barmforth (nil), lBloor in those days, at least one meet was (12), H.Drasdo (2), D.Fowbert (1), ruined because the leader, P. Thomson D.Gibbons (1), L.Gibson (1), lGreaves (4), again, was called up. The people I lS.Harris (nil), lHartley (2), Agnes Hirst have talked to seem to think the (1), Ron Hirst (4), G.Hocken (nil), YCMC. just faded away. Many came D.Hopkin (16), Miss lBatt (1), lJenkin (1), C.Kay (8), G.Kay (4), D.Kaye (nil), A back from National Service and joined Lewis (1), R.Long (nil, KMeekley (nil), other clubs or no clubs at all. A pity D.Morrell (7), M.Morrell (5), N.Morrell perhaps but our own club has lasted (1), N.Newman (4), AParker (8), F.Poulter over those crucial years and we should (1), T.Ransley (6), KReid (2), C.Rhodes be grateful to those whose efforts kept (3), M.Robinson (1), A Savage (nil), it going. H.C.Shaw (1), D.Speak (3), P.B.Thomson (4), M.Turner (3), l Wheeler (2), D.Williams (1), G.F.Williams (1). Please accept my apologies for any bricks I may have dropped and I Of the above Agnes Hirst, Dick Fowbert and would be most grateful for any Jack Bloor are sadly no longer with us. As additional information. far as 1 know Ron Hirst is still going strong working three days a week at 78 years; Charles Rhodes is still wardening the BMC Hut in Skye.. Neville Newman was at the Appendces: YRC dinner last week. 1 was talking to 1. Climbs done on Hebden Gill Crag. 23/3/46 Harold Drasdo recently, members may 2. Summary of Meet Reports Book. remember Neville Drasdo who is working at 3. List of members, number of times their Cardiff now. names appear in the book and what 1 know about their present whereabouts. 4. Officers and Programme for 1947.

1ue YRC Bulletin 34 Summer 1997 Appendix 3 Appendix 4. Summary of Meet Reports Book Officers & Syllabus for 1947 date venue, leader, number 23.3.46 Hebden Crag, 1. Greaves, 11 President: G. Hocken Esq. 6.4.46 Novices Meet, ., .. "Moorhouse", Burley Woodhead. 20.4.46 Novices Meet, -, _. Hon. Secretary: C. Rhodes Esq. 4.5.46 Novices Meet, ., .. 97 Burley Lodge Terrace. 19.5.46 Widdop, C. Rhodes, 9 Hon. Treasurer: D. Hopkin Esq. 2.6.46 Novices Meet, ., -- 18 Westwood Avenue, Ecc1eshill 9.46 Douk Cave, D. Hopkin, 6 date meet, accommodation,leader Christmas '46 Coniston Youth Hostel.>, 6 1947 5.1.47 Fountains Fell, P.B. Thomson, 2 Mar Walking, Wood Cottage YR, 12 plus A. Savage 19.1.47 Novices Meet, ., .. 16 Mar Walking Novices Halton East,D.Speak Whit. 47 Idwal Cottage YH., ., 5 5/7 April Easter at Langdale, Wall End, - 29.6.47 Gingling Hole, Fontains, D. 20 April Potholing, Novices, Bingley, D.Hopkin 11 May Climbing.Widdop.Wainstalls YR, Hopkin,6 D.Hopkin 5.10.47 Hardrawkin Hole, Chapel le 24·6 May Whitsuntide Lakes, Dale, Mrs. Morrell, 10 plus Arrangements later 20.11.47 Golden Lion.Horton, Annual 15 J1.U1e Climbing Novices Ilkley, ., C. Kay Dinner)1 29 J1.U1e Potholing,Ribblesdale,Camp,D.Hopkin Christmas '47 Glencoe YR., ., 6 12 July Climbing.Novices.Almscliffe.-, R.Hirst 4.1.48 Almscliffe Crag, N. Newman, 12 27 July Climbing, Stanage, Camping, D.Hopkin 8.2.48 Simons Seat, D. Hopkin, 9 August GrindelwaldlGlen Brittle, ., . 7.3.48 Kinderscout, G.F. Williams, 3 30 Aug Club Gen.Meeting, Burley W'Head YR, 7 Sept 3 Peaks, Walking, Dent YR, Coniston.v.> Easter '48 K. Meekley Easter '48 N. Wales, 1. Bloor, 6 21 Sept Climbing Novices Ilkley, ., - 18.4.48 Sell Gill, D. Hopkin, 4 5 Oct Potholing, Ingleton Hardrawkin, ., 2.5.48 Widdop, D. Hopkin, 4 Mrs. M. Morrell Whit '48 Esk Hause, ., .. 190ct Novices Laddow, Walking /Climbing, 11.7.48 Disappointment Pot, 1. Bloor, 6 Wood Cottage YR,C.Kay August '48 Glen Brittle, ., 5 2 Nov Walking Pateley,Hole Bottom 3.6.48 Holmfirth, ., 6 YR,L.Gibson 25 Dec Xmas, Borrowdale, - 1948 4 Jan A.G.M., Burley Woodhead,· 18 Jan Walking, Jerusalem YR, D. Speak

Lyngen

The YRC Bulletin 35 Summer 1997 Discovery Walks in the Yorkshire Dales: The Southern Dales. Walking More Ridges of Lakeland David Johnson Bob Alien with Peter Linney Sigma Leisure, Wilmslow, pp 200 £6.95 Michael Joseph Ltd., London, pp 192 HE £17.99 There were only five ofus at the usual Here is another well written and meeting place, Ashley and Audrey, informative book on Lakeland from Jim and Joy and me. When the Bob Alien's pen and camera. question of where to go came up I Diagrammatic maps, like spider's said 'I've got a little book called webs, and route cards are contributed 'Discovery Walks in the Yorkshire by Peter Linney, author of 'The Dales'. We can park free at Street Official Wainwright Gazetteer. ' It Gate and this book describes an covers the fells dealt with in interesting looking walk we can do Wainwright's Guides 4-7 i.e. those from there with lots ofthings to see.' west of a line through Mungrisedale Unfortunately when we got to Street via Borrowdale to Coniston. Gate and began booting up it started Looking at my copy of Bob Alien's raining in no uncertain manner, blown 'On High Lakeland Fells' I see that it on a strong south west wind. So to was published in 1987 and reprinted in save getting the book wet I didn't 1988 at £10.95. Surely inflation since study it properly but just glanced at 1988 has not been 63%. Is this the map on page 55 and led the party massive price hike because we are up the track straight -to the tarn back in the Wainwright industry? instead of the one going to Middle Having said that it is a well produced House. When we realised this mistake book with lots ofgood ideas for walks we made another one and missed Tarn and up to date information as to their Foot coming directly back to the ice feasibility. I was interested to learn cream place. Yes, I know I should that the West Wall Traverse route into have had the book in a plastic bag but Deep Gill, Scafell is not recommend­ it had been lovely weather at breakfast ed. I have been wondering for a year time and I didn't know my suggestion or two whether my misgivings over would be accepted. something I made light of40 ago were Things improved from then on. We proof of cowardice or prudence. On got on the bridle-way that goes to the other hand Mr. Alien's description Langscar Gate and found the Iron Age of the Gascale Gill horizon walk has homesteads and enclosure by Locks filled me with enthusiasm to do it at Scar. A bit further on at Dean Scar the next opportunity, we got a lesson in botany centred on a The photographs are just about as limestone boulder then the remains of good as we have come to expect from a Middle Bronze Age hut circle, a this author, particularly those of Mirk thousand years older than the previous Cove and the Great Slab ofBow Fell. one. It is only carping to suggest that they We lunched while enjoying the view do not overall reach the uniformly down Watlowes, this is the dry valley excellent standard set by 'On High going down to Malham Cove. The Lakeland Fells'. rain had stopped by now and the walk A very acceptable present or a good back north to Water Sinks was not buy ifyou can get over the price, unpleasant. Here we turned sharp light over a style and after crossing

The YRCBulletin 36 Summer 1997 the Pennine Way the points ofinterest Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk. came thick and fast. First was another Photographs by Deny Brabbs. Iron Age settlement bigger than the Michael Joseph Ltd., Revised Edition first one then, following the compass 1996, pp 204, Soft Back £13.99 bearing in the book we jumped three thousand years to two Norse Readers of the 'Yorkshire Rambler' farmsteads. will have no doubt as to my opinion of A. Wainwright. He was in my view a Some of the party had been walking self opinionated old curmudgeon only the Dales for a lifetime but still hadn't redeemed by a talent for drawing and known about these remains so they a love ofhigh places. reckoned Bill's idea had been a good one. One member said 'What a good And it must again be said that the idea to give a wet day walk a bit of photographs here are absolutely interest,' another 'What an interesting breathtaking; I particularly enjoyed thing to research on a fine hot day.' looking at the ones of Great Gable, You takes your choice. Striding Edge, Measand Force and Falling Foss. Mr. Brabbs has this time The last thing we saw was a monastic avoided the undue prevalence of sheet house at Prior Rakes. The book greenness which I remarked on in an gives both a plan and a reconstruction earlier review. by Dr. Raistrick of this medieval site. This enabled us to trace the outlines I have not done the Coast to Coast onto the ground with little difficulty. but the book called up many happy memories of places I have been to Wrth. our newly acqurred which lie along it. We visited archaeological insight we noticed Surrender Bridge on a recent meet and several more ancient huts and further up Swaledale there is Swinner enclosures as we made our way back Gill which we had a look at in 1993? to the road considerably wiser for a I have only sketchy knowledge of the day's discovery walking. start and finish points. I visited St. This book is simply a mine of Bees with my late wife in 1984 on an information about the countryside we off day from a holiday near all love and is well worth the modest Buttermere, we chatted with some price asked. successful east to west coast to coasters. The only time I have been to Dove Cave photographed by Derek Smithson Robin Hood's Bay was to lead a walk from there by our local rambling club. Both places are done more than justice to by this book. The North York Moors are perhaps unjustly neglected. The excellent pictures, both photos and drawing of Wainstones called to mind a recent walk round that way. Someone asked me if I

The YRCBulletin 37 Summer 1997 had ever climbed there. 'Yes' was the Best Pub Walks in and Around Leeds reply 'in 1956'. Good heavens that's Colin Speakman forty years ago, using our own Sigma Leisure pp 136 £6.95 Maurice Wilson's guide book. This got me to thinking about the chaps I When it's late November and the was with that day and was delighted cloud is low it seems a waste of time to realise that ofthe four ofthem I am to drive up to the Dales for a walk. still in touch with three and have in What better therefore, than to leave fact seen them in the last year. It is your car at home and catch a bus for truly said that a friendship which is one ofColin Speakman's linear walks. tied with a climbing rope is one that There are twenty described in this lasts. book ranging from two to nine miles in length but mainly around five; they The other function of a guide book is are described as 'half-day' in the of course to arouse interest in places preface but some of them have so the reader may not have heard of In much of interest to see that you will spite ofhaving been edited down since want more than a day to cover four or the first edition which has resulted in a five miles. lack of detail, Mr. Wainwright has made me keen on visiting the ancient While the title mentions Leeds there settlement at Castle Folds near Orton are walks described at Otley, Morley, in Westmorland, sorry Cumbria. Mind Micklefield and Wetherby. But the you he climbed two walls on his core of the book and what I found original visit and seems aggrieved that absorbing is Leeds itself with its long the farmer showed resentment. This arms ofgreen stretching tight from the edition makes it clear that the farmer's centre to the open country, There are permission must be obtained but also some wonderful buildings which doesn't say which farm to apply to. most of us haven't time to notice when we drive into town for business. Even in this posthumous edition we get evidence of the author's dislike of Juliet and I did the walk in from motor cars and their users. A scornful Kirkstall on a bad snowy day but the reference to motorists wishing to beauty of the canal side trees made it exercise their 'atrophied legs' on page all worthwhile not to mention a very 158 is followed on page 165 by the good lunch at the Prince of Wales suggestion that readers beg a lift from pub. The first walk in the book is Clay Bank Top to the nearest shop. short in miles but long in interest. As Motor cars are a bad thing except they say in Cumberland 'Good stuff when they are canying me or my laps up in lile bunn'les', Incidentally, readers. we were too late for lunch at the 'Grove' at 2.15 pm although the Still, like non union-labour, motor-car notice 'Food Serving Now' was on hypocrites are an essential part of a display. Perhaps I should also free and diverse society and I can mention that the 'Fox and Newt' has sincerely recommend this book to any temporarily suspended its brewing member who is interested in the walk operation pending re-equipment. or in exploring some of the country along it. All the walks are planned to be done using public transport and the book would make an ideal present for anyone who likes a walk and is interested in things to see.

The YRC Bulletin 38 Summer 1997 Why on earth do we do it? Alps, the Arctic and the Hirnalaya. 'The Undiscovered Country, He has read widely and thought The Reason We Climb. ' deeply so that the reader feels the Phi! Bartlett, continuity between Logstaff's and The Ernest Press, pp18, HJB £15.95 Tillmans expeditions and his own. Most of the great names of My elder daughter told me recently mountaineering are mentioned' and that she had no idea why anybody some of their ideas discussed in the could possibly enjoy climbing course of the book. Also a great name mountains. TIlls in spite of the fact of anti-mountaineering, one John that she had, a few years before, Ruskin whose strictures re 'soaped insisted on her husband going with her poles' and 'screams of delight' are over the Langdale Pikes; probably to quoted under his picture on page 31. illustrate her dreadful childhood. The chapters deal in turn with aspects Gallons of ink have been spilt trying to of our sport, exploration, living explain why we climb, probably there dangerously but gloriously, simple life, are as many reasons as there are religion and nationalism. The climbers, but the nub of the matter is photographs are excellent, many have expressed in one of the chapter not appeared before and the author's headings of W. Kenneth Richmond's captions go far beyond the usual 'Me 'Climber's Testament'. Somewhere on the top' simplicity. The picture of in the middle of the book a chapter Sir Christian has a comment on Brian headed 'Sport or Religion?' gives the Blessed's 'The Turquoise Mountain' author's ideas which as I remember, which warms my heart. The picture are somewhere middle of the road, of F.W. Bourdillon on the Matterhorn giving equal emphasis to both aspects. also tells us that he wrote the famous Better known authorities have line "Night has a thousand eyes." The emphasised one aspect. Was it not scenic pictures include the Leslie Stephen who said "The Alps gentleman's side of Girnmer, I was are my religion"? There is also the looking at it last week, Coruisk as well probably apocryphal story of a as the author below Kunyang Kish. member of a senior Manchester Club, There are very many ideas discussed. not a churchgoer, who entered RC. as My own clearest impression after one his religion on joining the forces. reading is the comforting one that it On the other hand in 'Let's Go does not matter ifyou are not the best Climbing' C.F. Kirkus points out that climber and don't climb the biggest even without its poetic aspect, mountains. You can still benefit fully climbing can hold its own with the ball from the mountain experience without games which the general public know being a Brown or a Bonnington. To as 'Sport'. "Instead of human return to Kenneth Richmond's book opponents you fight against the natural mentioned above 'The old lady who difficulties of the rocks, instead of toddles up Orrest Head may have playing another team you do a something which eludes the conqueror different climb and instead of playing of the Karakorurn'. a return match you do the same climb Read this book, it is the '90s equivalent under different weather conditions". of, and in every way fit to stand Mr. Barlett has climbed since alongside Frank Smythe's classic 'Spirit boyhood, like this reviewer, he was ofthe Hills'. lucky enough to climb with the late Jim Cameron. He has also been to the

The YRC Bulletin 39 Summer 1997 'Snowdonia Rocky Rambles. less doubt that you are looking at the Geology Beneath Your Feet'. same bit of rock that the author is Bryan Lynas. describing. Sigma Leisure. pp 273 PIB £9.95 Mr. Lynas is a great mountain lover. He camped near Yr Wyddfa one night Like its predecessor, 'Lakeland Rocky during the preparation ofthe book and Rambles', this book is an absolute dawn saw him on top to see the mine of information. It is a useful sunrise, In a whimsical moment he walking guide and unique in the way admits to thanking the mountain for Mr. Lynas explains the formation of having him. I think that is absolutely the planet and how events millions of marvellous and connects up well with years ago left their imprint on things some of the points discussed in 'The we can see today. Undiscovered Country', While not It is difficult to avoid being swept up professing formal religion Mr. Lynas by the author's enthusiasm for this is clearly fascinated and awed by the subject and as in the Lakeland book he story of our wonderful planet and is does not restrict himself to geology, very good at communicating his own but points out some of the most joy to his readers. interesting plants to be seen, like the One thing though, as I warned last insect eating sundew and the stinkhom time, don't think you are going to do fungus (phallus impudicus). There is any of these walks in quick time. a very lucid timescale with a guide to There is so much of interest pointed its use in appendix one and a out that you may well find yourself bibliography in appendix 2. There is a 70% through the time available and glossary of technical terms and a list 30% through the walk. But do the of Welsh topographical words with walks anyway you couldn't have a their English equivalents. better guide and I am eagerly awaiting Ten rambles are described and from his book on the Yorkshire Dales. my experience of the country covered they are all well worth doing provided, of course, that you are able to 'pick a The Craven Pothole Club Record good day' where the author says. No.45 Chapter 1 describes a walk in the January 1997 Rhinogs and Cader Idris is covered in Yet another bundle of interesting and Chapter 6, the rest of the book is sometimes thrilling tales of adventure nearer the actual Snowdon massif. underground and contretemps above Most of the illustrations are black and it. I am sorry for the poor people who white photographs taken by the author. camped at Brothers Water last Where necessary writing on the September and got washed out. Last pictures tells you what to look for e.g. time I saw Dick Espiner, who has 'bedding plane' and 'funny hat'. A lot been installed as President, we were of . the photographs include Mrs. both camping in Duddon valley but on Lynas; dare I suggest that a lot of her different sites. Reminiscences from husband's drawings in the Lakeland 1947 brought back memories and book didn't show her full beauty? He quotes from our own 1947 Journal are does admit this in the Lakeland book featured. That must have been one of but to change over to photos seems a the last links with the club's infancy drastic way of making amends. Be with obituaries of Martel, Brodrick, that as it may the book is better served Lowe, Parsons and Puttrell. by photographs. With them there is

The YRC Bulletin 40 Summer 1997 The Craven Pothole Club Record II!j!lljj····:··IM·Ii!~I!I;!:!~!ml:I!:!!!! No. 44 October 1996 Journeys into the Unknown: Here is another quarters worth of adventure above and below ground An illustrated lecture on Expeditions to the from the Craven Pothole Club. Above Himalayas, Tibet and the Arctic. March 1997 ground includes Crianlarich and North by Professor Keith Miller Wales, where they got wet like we This event being .the part of the mountaineers do. Topics include an University of Sheffield's contribution interesting article on Mountain Tables', to the fourth National Science Week as well as Monros there are apparently there were many references to the Donalds, Corbetts and MacLeods. technological aspects of the work The Gaping Gill meet is fully covered, carried out on his twenty or so it is good to know there are still new expeditions. Miller's thesis was that passages being discovered. for success an expedition must achieve harmony between it's members, The abroad activities include a finances, purposes and the culture and fascinating article by Nigel Graham on environments in which it operates the Meet in Norway. May I quote while still being able to cope with 'The top 50ft into the gorge looked unpredictable emotions and politics. impossible from above (how often have we all faced that?) so the Bear's If that sounds academic then the Cleft is was. It started decently, steep delivery was not with his warmth and but steadily ... then ... a fantastic sincerity obvious in each anecdote. ruckle ofangular granite boulders ..' Starting with a slide of climbing a steep buttress in the Lake District at a They really live in the C.P.C. but they time when some ofour members knew are not too hot on Theology. Page 39 him we were treated to snapshots claims that Zeus was supposed to have from the expeditions. With alpine been bom in a cave on Mount Ida. I guides arrogantly removing one ofhis always thought he had been bom in belays on the Matterhorn, sabotage Dycti Cave by the Lassithi Plateau, at and a 20km roped walk-out to escape least that's what we were told when a white-out on Iceland's Vatnajokull my late wife and I went there ten years while searching for volcanic hot-spots ago. inder the ice, glacier snouts bursting to Altogether a jolly good read now in release destructive floods in the the Club Library for your enjoyment. Karakoram, earthquake-proofing buildings and the similarities between the cracks in failing turbine blades and Editor's Note: I believe that there are various crevasses there plenty to think about. myths relating to the birth of Zeus.: this is one I came across. By the birth of Zeus, his Titan Miller, branded a CIA agent and later mother, Rhea, had 'wised up' to his father a communist spy, had his camp buzzed Cronus' habit of swallowing his children lest they by both US and USSR war planes grow and dethrone him and developed a ploy to preserve Zeus It had though taken the loss of when his powerful radar equipment, Poseidon, Hades, Hestia, Demeter, and, finally, used for measuring the thickness of Hera for Rhea to reach this point. She fobbed off glacial ice, started transmitting. Cronus with a stone wrapped in swaddling clothes while hiding Zeus in Bill's Dycti Cave, Crete, to The audience ofseveral hundred, aged be reared by nymphs. Zeus, when grown forced from five to around eighty-five, Cronus to disgorge his, Zeus's, siblings, who appreciated this RGS gold medallist were predictably annoyed and sought revenge. Dysfunctional families are not new. sharing some ofhis many experiences.

The YRC Bulletin 41 Summer 1997 Ins & outs of our Club finances a look at the Club's income and expenditure for last year as presented to the last AGM by our Treasurer, Alan Kay

Where does it all come from? Where does your £25 go? (assuming you pay the full £25 subscription that is)

The surplus from Lowstem and most of that from LHG was used to Are we in a healthy financial position? purchase and install electrical heaters "It all depends on what you mean by at Lowstem. Our Treasurer reminded healthy. There is no need though to us that a LHG rent review is due in put up the subscriptions just yet." 1997, there are plans to extend Lowstem and rates, insurance, etc. are Alan Kay has served as Treasurer for bound to rise. six years and feels that it is time to So apparently small items such as step down at the next AGM - are interest and meets surpluses are vital there any offers from other members in balancing the books. to take on this role? ...and the cost ofproducing the Yorkshire Rambler?

Since the cost of producing anyone issue varies depending on such factors as the number ofpages and whether the stock of envelopes ran out these costs are based on an average over four issues. The cost of binding extra copies for kindred club libraries has been spread between members. This page has cost you 3p. It varies between issues from 21h to 31hp. The printing costs £1.10 per copy, distribution 55p, stationery and sundries lOp; making the cost to you of a typical issue £1.75p. To increase the 'value for money' simply submit a more interesting piece or two yourself1

The YRC Bulletin 42 Summer 1997 At the 104th AGM last November The Rev Jim Rusher had, to use his Derek Bush's report was heard by own description, cobbled together for several fewer members than anticipated the Dinner a special Grace which drew as the change of date caught out five favourable comments. potential attendees, including the God bless our club, President Elect, who were planning to God guide its ways. be there the following weekend. As it May we enjoy turned out the new date secured the The meal this day. better weather. Reports on the huts So always may there ever be, included a request from Alan Kay for A strong and talented Y.R. C. members to make concise, complete and accurate entries in the hut books. David Smith reported that there was no charge for electricity at Low Hall Dr Stephen A. Craven adds a post Garth as there is now no meter. script to references to the Leeds Mike Godden informed Lowstern Savage Club (see Bulletins 3 and 4) users that the newly installed electrical confirming Jeff Hooper's suspicion heaters cured the condensation problem that this was a dining club founded by provided that the extractor fans are on the romantic topographer, Edmund when showering. Bogg and loosely modelled on the Our representatives on the BMC Area North American lndian tribal system. Committees, Ken Aldred, Bill Todd Bogg was the 'Chief, the secretary the and Gordon Humphreys reported on 'Scribe', committee members 'Braves' opposition to a funicular on Cairngorm and ordinary members were 'Savages'. to replace the chairlift (no rucksacks In reply to an enquiry as to how he allowed!), a BMC lnternet web site and came to research the early history of Ken Wilson's bid to the Millennium caving and the YRC, Dr Craven has Fund for support for a Mountaineering been brave enough to reveal the truth, Museum In connection with the last He had just qualified 25 years ago and was an appeal for donations of ancient enjoyed the quietest house job in the equipment. Access and anchor points Leeds General lnfirmary. Despite appeared to take up almost all the having little to do he had to be around Lakes committee's time. The York's & in case something went wrong so he Humberside committee asked Cayley spent long hours, on call, in the YRC Crags users not to do U-turns on the room in the Leeds Reference Library narrow main road. And finally, the and reading the newspaper collections. Council of Europe has now dropped Thankfully the lnfirmary telephonists their plans to ban climbing. were very good and ifthe unsuspecting boss telephoned they would divert the call to the Library for Stephen to give a prompt reply.

The YRCBulletin 43 Summer 1997 Bernard Nelstrop has noticed When you read the meet reports and significant omissions from the list of find the one dated 1995 do not think it caving and potholing activity in the last is a typographical error. The text of issue (Bulletin number 6, pages 35-42) the report has been lost in the due to the list only including activities complexities ofthe Club's systems over in the Craven district. He points out the intervening years. My apologies to that there were two important meets to Arthur Craven for the delay. Marble Arch caves, Enniskillen, Ireland, where, through a narrow passage a group discovered Pollnagollum, a huge new cave with an The Killamey Tourist Guide to the underground lake. Also Geoff Gowing tourist route up Carrantuohill (103 9m) and Bemard joined up two entrances to in McGilly cuddy Reeks says 'it is Marble Arch cave by swimming, out of extremely easy to loose direction on the their depth, across a stretch of water. top. Ifyou lose your way do not move His recollection is that the team also until the weather has cleared'. This included Fred Booth, Harold Booth, could be days! There is a 20ft cross on Stanley Marsden, John Godley and the summit presumably for possibly others. commemoration to the missing. Perhaps someone will offer to compile a list ofoverseas caving achievements. Derek Collins writes... 'I always try to solo one particular route every year just to check my powers are not failing too The walk from LHG round Lingmoor much. Like many climbs the first pad Fell is usually done in wet weather - it is steep and unforgiving, but taken is worth an aftemoon in better times. slowly watching the rock and Buzzard, Peregrine Falcon, Kestrel, concentrating, it always succumbs. Green Woodpecker and either Mink or There is a slight easing for a few yards Polecat are among the residents. and then the long gradually steepening middle section. This bit always worries me as there is no escape. The last few moves over steep ground bring one to Alan Linford passes on a few tips for the ridge proper, but there is no relief anyone planning a trip to Ireland. At this point the route swings right and Kerry Mountaineering Club can be steepens again. About here I start contacted on 06661127. thinking about other sports, but it is not The ferry to Skeelaig is no more but far. Concentrate, dig deep and choose phone Seanie Murphy on 06676214, your route with care! I know I have the day before a crossing is required, energy for only one attempt. Up to for use ofthe local boat. now it has always worked and it is with The Ordnance Survey of Ireland, a real sense ofsatisfaction that I can sit Phoenix Park, Dublin 8, produce a back in the saddle and move up through 1:50,000 Discovery Series of maps the gears. Birdy Brow conquered yet printed on highly absorbent paper. again!'

The YRC Bulletin 44 Summer 1997 Club Proceedings The 79th Annual Dinner, The Centerary Dinner, followed at the same hotel. The retiring President, D.A. The following summaries of the Club Smithson, was in the chair. The proceedings bring these records up to Principal Guest was the Lord Chorley date and continue from their of Kendal. Kindred Clubs were predecessors in the YRC Journals. represented by their Presidents, Lt. Colonel (Rtd) HRA. Streather OBE, Alpine Club; lW. Clarke, Bradford 1992: The meets were: January 1, Pothole Club; Jancis Alison, Climbers Gaping Gill; January 10-12, North Club; A. Smith, Craven Pothole Club; Wales; 1-3 February, Low Hall Galih; Professor Finlay Swinton, Grampian 21-23 February, Glen Nevis; 13-15 Club; P.W. Green, Gritstone Club; M. March, Birkness; 3-5 April, Lowstern, Shaw, Midland Association of Rowton Pot in 1892 dress; 17-21 April, Mountaineers; .B. Rhodes, Rucksack Lowstern, Yorkshire 2000's; 1-3 May, Club; lHM. Smart, Scottish Ladies' Weekend, Thorpe, Dovedale, Mountaineering Club; B.T. Cook, Derbyshire; 22-30 May, Skye; 19-21 Wayfarers Club; Jill Aldersley Past June, Long Walk, Wasdale Skyline; 19 Vice-President Fell & Rock Climbing July-15 August, Norsk Project; 4-6 Club; Jan Schwarzzott, P.A. Lovdahl & September, Lowstern, Rowton Pot; 18­ R Valsvik, Ardal Turlag of Norway. 20 September, RL.H Langdale; 9-11 The attendance was 162. The after­ October, Southern Highlands; 30 dinner meet was held at Lowstern October-I November, Punchbowl, where there was a display of old slides Swaledale; 4-6 December, Hill Inn; 26 and pictures at the hut and followed by December, Hopper Lane Inn, high tea. Centenary of the first meet in 1892; Average attendance 22 (excluding the Dinner, Ladies' Weekend or Hopper Lane). The lOOth Annual General Meeting 1993: The meets were: 8-10 January, was held at Randall' s Hotel, Skipton, Lowstern, Alum Pot/Long Churn; 29­ on 21 November 1992. The following 31 January, Low Hall Garth; 19-21 officers were elected for the year 1992­ February, Llanberis; 18 Febmary-3 93: March, Colorado, U.S.A., Skiing; 12­ President; Dr. G.A. Salmon; 15 March, Achintee, Glen Nevis and Vice-President: H Robinson; Kingshouse, Glen Coe; 20-27 March, Hall. Secretary: C.D. Bush; Le Tour, Chamonix, Skiing; 2-4 April, Asst. Secretary: M.I. Kinder; Lowstern, Lancaster Hole to Easegill; Hall. Treasurer: T.A. Kay; 23-25 April, Kirkby Lonsdale, Ladies' Hall. Editor: M. Smith; Weekend; 30 April-3 May, Upper Hall. Librarian: R Harben; Eskdale, Camping Meet; 28 May-5 Hall. Auditor: D. Laughton; June, Loch Duich; 21-23 June, Hall. Huts Secretary: D.M.Martindale; Threlkeld, Long Walk, Mungrisedale to Hut Wardens, LHG: F.D. Smith, Troutbeck; 2-4 July, Nidderdale; 24 Lowstern: F. Godden, July-7 August, Randa; 3-5 September, Committee: P.A. Elliot, F.M. Godden, Hagg Dyke, Wharfedale; HA.Lomas,HM.Papworth,F.D.Smith 10-12 September, RL.H. Langdale;

The YRC Bulletin 45 Summer 1997 17-19 September, Wasdale; 8-10 1994: The meets were 7-9 Jan., October, Wye Valley, Chepstow, Rock Lowstem; 28-30 Jan., LHG; 18-20 Climbing; 29-31 October, Lowstem, Feb., Glen Etive; 11-13 March, Pen Joint Meet with Gritstone Club; 20 Wyllt, South Wales, Potholling; 8-10 November, Annual Dinner, After April, Ladies' Weekend, Broughton-in­ Dinner Meet, Lowstem; 10-12 Furness; 6-8 May, North Wales; 28 December, Blencathra. May-4 June, Ardgour; 24-26 June, The 1018t Annual General Meeting Long Walk, Northem 2500's; 8-10 held at Randall's Hotel, Skipton, on 20 July, Hathersage, 23 July-6 August, November. The following officers Bemese Oberland; 26-28 August, were elected for the year 1993-94: Lowstem; 16-18 September, RL.H President Dr. GA. Sahnon; Langdale; 7-9 October, Brosigran, President Elect: C.D. Bush; Comwall; 28-30 Oct., Hubberhohne; Vice-President: K. Aldred; 19 November, Annual Dinner; 20 Hon. Secretary: lA. Schofield; November, After Dinner Meet, Hon. Asst. Secretary: M.I Kinder; Lowstem; 9-11 December, Station Inn, Hon. Treasurer: T.A. Kay; Ribblehead. Hon. Editor: M. Smith; The l02nd Annual General Meeting Hon. Librarian/Archivist; R Harben; was held at Randall's Hotel, Skipton on Hon. Auditor: D. Laughton; 19 Novebmer. The following officers Huts Secretary D.M. Martindale; were elected for the year 1994/95: Hut Wardens: LHG, F.D. Smith, President: C.D. Bush; Vice-President: Lowstem, GR Sahnon; K. Aldred; Hon. Secretary: Committee: LF.D. Gilmour, D. Hall, lA. Schofield; Hon. Asst. Secretary: HA. Lomas, I Riley, F.D. Smith. M.I Kinder; Hon. Treasurer: The 80th Annual Dinner followed at T.A. Kay; Hon. Editor: M. Smith: the same hotel, the President, Dr. GA. Hon. Librarian/Archivist: R Harben; Sahnon was in the chair. The Principal Hon. Auditor: D. Laughton; guest was Robert Petigrew. Kindred Huts Secretary: D.M. Martindale; Clubs were represented by Presidents, Hut Wardens: LHG, F.D. Smith; M.H Westmacott, Alpine Club; M. Lowstern: GR. Sahnon, Jackson, Craven Pothole Club; D.W. Committee: LF.D. Gilmour D. Hall, Bateman, Gritstone Club and by M. HA.Lomas, G.R.Sahnon, F.D. Smith. Vallance, Climbers Club; R. High, The 81st Annual Dinner followed at Midland Association of Mountaineers; the same hotel. The President Dr. G.A. W. Cooper, Rucksack Club; R.H Sahnon was in the chair. The Principal Jacobs, Wayfarers Club. Guest was John Cleare. Kindred Clubs were represented by Presidents, M.Hartland, Bradford Pothole Club; HJacob, Wayfarers Club and by I Curran, Alpine Club; G Workman, Craven Pothole Club; P.O'Neill, Fell & Rock Climbing Club; C. Duckworth, Gritstone Club; G'Adshead, Rucksack Club; R.Campbell, SMC. The After Dinner Meet was at Lowstem.

TIle YRC Bulletin 46 Summer 1997 1995: The meets were 20-22 January, 1996: The meets were 5-7 January, Plas-y-Celyn, NOlth Wales; 16-19 Low Hall Garth; 26-28 January, February, Kinlochleven; 10-12 March, Llanberis; 16-19 February, Glen Etive; Lowstem; 31 March-l April, Eskdale; 15-17 March, Lowstem; 12-14 April, 22-29 April, Mallorca; 12-14 May, Joint Meet with Gritstone Club, St. Llanberis; 27 May-3 June, Long Walk, John's Vale; 10-12 May, Gaping Gill, Southem Uplands; 23 July-5 August, Centenary of First Y.R.C. Meet; 21-23 Picos de Europa; 18-20 August, June, South Wales Fans; 5-7 July, Dove Lowstem; 1-3 September, Ladies' Crag Cave; 2 July-l0 August, Alps Weekend, Holmfirth; 15-17 September, Meet, Allfroide; 23-25 August, Cwm RL.H. Langdale; 29 September-l Eigiau, North Wales; 20-22 September, October, Crianlarich; Midweek Meet, RL.H Langdale; 11-13 October, Low Hall Garth; 27-29 October, Low Ennerdale; 9 November, Annual Row, Swaledale; 18 November, Annual Dinner; 10 November, After Dinner Dinner; 19 November, After Dinner Meet, Kirkby Lonsdale. Meet, Buckden; 8-10 December, The 104th Annual General Meeting Blencathra. was held at Whoop Hall Hotel, Kirkby . The l03rd Annual General Meeting Lonsdale on 9 November.. The was held at Randall's Hotel, Skipton. following officers were elected for the on 18 November. The following year 1996/97. officers were elected for the year President: TW. Josephy; 1995/96. Vice-President: IF.D. Gihnour; President: C.D. Bush; Hon. Secretary: RG. Humphreys; President Elect: TW. Josephy; Hon.Meets Secretary: 1.H Hooper; Vice-fJresident: le. Aldred; Hon. Treasurer: TA. }(ay; Hon. Secretary: 1.A. Schofield; Hon. Editor: M. Smith; Hon.Librarianl Hon. Treasurer: TA. }(ay; Archivist: M.P. Pryor; Hon. Editor: M. Smith; Hon. Auditor: D. Laughton; Hon. Librarian!Archivist: R Harben; Huts Secretary: R Josephy; Hon. Auditor: D. Laughton; Hut Wardens, LHG, F.D.Smith, Huts Secretary: D.M. Martindale; Lowstem, F.M. Godden; Hut Wardens, LHG ,F.D.Smith, Committee: IF.D. Gihnour, D. Hall, Lowstem, F.M. Godden; HA. Lomas, G.R Salmon. Committee: IF.D. Gilmour, D. Hall, The 83rd Annual Dinner followed at . HA. Lomas, G.R Salmon. the same hotel. The retiring President The 82nd Annual Dinner followed at C.D. Bush was in the chair. The Chief the same hotel. The President, C.D. Guest was Bill Mitchel MBE. Kindred Bush was in the chair. The Kindred Clubs were represented by 1. Lovatt, Clubs were represented by M. Esten, Alpine Club; F. Croll, Bradford Pothole Alpine Club; P. Brookes, Climbers Club; E. Whitaker, Craven Pothole Club; 1. Richardson, Rucksack Club; H Club; R Precious, Fell & Rock Jacob, Wayfarers Club; D. Bateman, Climbing Club: S. Grace, Gritstone Gritstone Club; E. Whitaker, Craven Club; 1. Fowler, Scottish Pothole Club; R High, Midland Mountaineering Club; K Rigby, Association of Mountaineers. Wayfarers Club. Attendance 94. Attendance 85.

The YRC Bulletin 47 Summer 1997 New Members, Members' Resignations and Deaths since Journal No. 38

New Members 1992 Chris J. Joint Shaun Penney Peter St.J.Price 1993 Stephen Beresford Richard J. Sealey WilliamLee N eil Pomfret Alister Renton 1994 J. Bruce Bensley Martyn D. Wakeman Michael Wood 1995 Michael N. Haltland Flanders Frank Milner Mark M. Pryor 1996 Nicholas Welsh Resignations 1992 Peter Armitage David W. Dyson 1993 Anthony G. Bames lan M. D. Potter 1994 Geoffrey B. Bates 1995 Stephen A. Goulden Andrew Wells 1996 Simon J. Goodwin Deaths 1993 Denis Adams C. Roger Allen A. David M. Cox, Hon. Member Jack B. Devenport Ralph W. Hobson Harry Piercy 1995 Geoffry B. Bates Geoffrey P. A. Scovell 1996 E. Clifford Downham Alton Haltley Alum Pot 1997 Peter Swindells Hany L. Stembridge

TIle YRC Bulletin 48 Summer 1997 m6ituanies Cliff joined the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club in 1950 and quickly made his mark as a competent, hardworking Clifford Downham secretary with a friendly nature and a 1950 -1996 natural concern for others. A modest man, he never sought the limelight and Cliff who has died at the age of 85, was reluctant to accept the Presidency played a major role in the "engine in 1966. He was elected as an room" ofthe Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Honorary Member of the Club at the as Secretary and as President for two 1968 annual dinner, with acclaim. years - 25 years in all between 1954 and 1979 - nearly a quarter of the life During his service as secretary there ofthe Club. were two major events in the Club. First the 1957 Himalayan Expedition, in Ernest Clifford Downham was born on the organising of which Cliff took a the 14th October, 1911 in the small prominent part, and the other was the village of White Ash, near Lowstern Club Hut. There is an Oswaldtwistle and educated at interesting account in the Y.R.C. Accrington Grammar School. After Journal 9, page 20 about the early days school he soon become a very good of the hut, but there is no mention of rock climber and tough potholer, and a what Cliff did in organising the work founder member of the Northern force of members in restoring and. Cavern and Fell Club, a small body of renovating the "Old Golf House" hard potholers which was formed in during 1958. He was on the site nearly 1929. every weekend after Easter until the Hut was opened in November. It was It was in 1934 when an accident, a splendid effort and he insisted on perhaps worse than any previous one, obtaining all materials "at the right certainly from the rescuers point of price", thus saving the Club a lot of view, happened in the final chamber of money. To mark the occasion Frank Gingling Hole on Fountains Fell where Stembridge wrote a song ''Lowstern or a member of the Moor and Fell Club Downham's Folly" which was sung at severely fractured a leg. Cliff played a the 1958 Club Dinner. major role in getting the injured man to the surface through extremely difficult The year 1937 was an important one pitches and continuously restricted for Cliff, he married Nellie and passages, in what must have become an afterwards lived in Huncoat, near epic rescue. The accident might have Accrington until 1947 when he came to had grave results but for the happy live and work in Bradford. He moved chance that an experienced and to Ambleside as secretary to the determined party (none other than the Climbers' Shop and when he retired in Northern Cavern and Fell Club) was 1977 went to Grasmere, finally found at the first shot. It was obvious returning to Ambleside again in 1987. that some action was imperative and so Whilst living in the Lake District his in February 1935 the Cave Rescue concern for safety on the hills helped in Organisation was formed with E. E. the formation of the Langdale and Roberts as:first chairman and Cliff as its Ambleside Mountain Rescue Service secretary for a time. and he was its second secretary.

The YRC Bulletin 49 Summer 1997 A warm personality and a loyal friend, Nellie was a most welcoming and he set a fine example of service; few generous hostess to all those who men could have measured up to him in visited them in the Lake District and we his concern for others and the energy offer her our sincere sympathy. he put into all his activities in the Yorkshire Ramblers'. We shall long Stanley Marsden remember his rich Lancashire accent and his personal fiiendship with us all.

The YRC Bulletin 50 Summer 1997 Peter Cawley Swindells Member 1964 - 1997

Peter was a member of the Club Committee from 1967 to 1970 and from 1973 to 1979. The gap in 1971 and 1972 was due to his absence in Ireland. He was Vice President from 1980 to 1982 and President from 1986 t01988.

When he joined the Club in 1964 he He also had a strong and beneficial was living in Bradford. In 1976 he effect on the Club's policy and well moved to Nantwich. The move made being. Moved by the trend towards very little difference to his regular more walking than climbing and pot attendance at Club Meets but improved holing (which used to be the other way his acquaintance with the Welsh hills. round twenty years earlier) he inspired He was a friendly, entertaining and the Club to put a man on every Scottish generous man with an impish sense of Munro in the course of the 1983 Whit humour. He was also a strong walker Meet. A record sixty-four members, who, given a choice, always opted for plus guests, tackled this enterprising the more demanding route and for the venture with complete success and the more testing distance. There was no event gave a great deal of pleasure to bravado about this. He was a all those involved. He also argued for competent and reliable navigator. He one major Club expedition every four had completed the Scottish Munros and years and the first of these was the was involved in preparing to tackle the Bolivian Expedition of 1988. The Irish equivalents. On any reckoning he difficult business of demolishing and was a good man to be with on the hills. rebuilding Lowstern was started when Peter was President and he devoted much time and energy towards keeping this important project rolling.

On meets Peter could always be relied upon to turn up with a selection ofwell researched activities. In his later years in the Lake District he drew inspiration from the geriatric scrambles described in RB.Evans 'Scrambles in the Lake District', Only a few months ago, at the September Joint Meet, he took us up Crinkle Gill on to Crinkle Crag, over Bowfell to Angle Tarn, thence down Rossett Gill to the Old Dungeon Gill Hotel where an evening pint was always an occasion for Peter to discourse enthusiastically on Club affairs, his latest book, future meets and

The YRC Bulletin 51 Summer 1997 known routes on Almscliff Crag. On a Stanley Marsden and Cliff Downham. visit to Rhum with his son David they In 1957 the expedition set out for the put up new rock routes. He climbed Jugal Himal with the 23,256ft Lonpo abroad, in the Lofoten Islands and in Gang (The Great White Peak) as the the Tatras, also in Austria and principal objective. Switzerland on several occasions. With a group of friends and David he skied He was a man of many parts; a very the Haute Route from Saas Fee to capable artist in water colours, wrote Forclaz. In 1969 he joined a trek to poetry and watched birds and was Everest Base camp. interested in wild flowers. Shortly after his retirement in 1960 he took on the One ofhis more ambitious trips was to role of Liaison Officer for the Duke of Pern with A1f Gregory in June of 1963 Edinburgh Award Scheme, and then where they spent six to eight weeks in was appointed County Commissioner the Andes (Cordillera Blanca). He and for the Scouts in Central Yorkshire. A1f made three first ascents over He was also on the Board of the 18,000ft including Nevada Pisco over Outward Bound School in Eskdale. 19,000ft in the then little known country. They also searched for the rare Harry had an endearing cheerful 30ft. Puya Raymondii plant to personality, he was rarely upset and photograph whilst they were there. was always there to help. It was fitting for his final journey to be from the little Potholing and caving were of course church in Bedale to the Cemetery another varieties of climbing and one nearly a mile away. Most of the remembers the happy and eventful days congregation, walking, followed the in the early fifties spent at Mr.Barbour's four bearers in a mixture of driving farm in Killesher, N.Ire1and and the late rain, high winds and blue skies. The evenings at The Black Lion across the reception was held in the 'Stembridge' Border. These were the early days of room in the village hall, the village that Marble Arch, Reyfad and several other had become his home for the last thirty potholes and caves. Marble Arch is years. now advertised as a tourist attraction for coach parties. Harry was a remarkable man m so many ways, The Scottish climbing meets were he will be greatly usually attended by Harry; if he wasn't missed by members of climbing he would be off fishing. He the Club and his friends was always a great example to the in the mountain world, younger, less experienced members of the villagers of Bedale, the Club, whether at Almscliff or but most of all by his wherever the Club happened to be. wife Betty, and the two families they made into At the YRC annual dinner of 1955, one so successfully, inspired by Charles Evans, the chief David, Patrick, guest, the idea of the YRC being the Madeleine, Katherine first regional club to mount an and his grandchildren. expedition to the Himalayas was born. R. E. Chadwick & J. A. Holmes Harry provided much ofthe enthusiasm and was the driving force along with

The YRCBulletin 53 Summer 1997 The Climber

How steep the slab above the overhang seems from my little stance beside the lip. For forty feet, so far as I can see the holds are slight, mere shadows on the face.

Below my heels the crag drops to the scree. Far, far below the stream glints in the sun, sending faint murmurs through the quiet air. Shadows of clouds chase across the distant hills.

Once on the slab of butterflies that gnawed my stomach fade and calculating calmly I can weigh each move unflurried by the grip of nerves.

Smoothly I shift my weight from toe to toe. Splayed finger tips now near, now reaching far for sustenance, until, by movement imperceptible, I gain a little height.

Now comes the crux, with nought but pressure holds, a balanced lift by muscles smooth and slow, a gentle press offingers on the rock. My whole world centred on the next few feet.

I do think of all the years when I, on training bent, made my reluctant limbs go where I willed up crag and sliding scree until they ached and threatened to give in.

This is my harvest. Here on this sunny day, poised upon meagre holds, high on the slab with sinews, balance, nerves working in tune I would not change my place with any man.

HL Stembridge

Tue YRC Bulletin 54 Sunnner 1997 A. B. Hargreaves and for a l7-year-old beginner a day long to be remembered. The three 1904 -1996 climberswere Colin Kirkus, Alf Bridge and AB. Hargreaves. I was not to meet 'AB.' again until Many members will have seen the 1947 when I was then living in the obituary notices in the national press to Lakes. Along with Eric Arnison, James the death, aged 92, of Alien B. Joyce and joined sometimes with Harry Hargreaves. 'AB.' as he was better Griffin, Tom Price and BillPeascod, we known to the climbing world, although formed a group that met with some he was never a member, retained for regularity, Never a natural climber, and the YR.C. a long and lasting affection and by marriage had a link with the hardly bold, I was often grateful for 'AB.'s tuition and guidance, for Club. In 1935 he married Maud chiding me for clumsiness and Gordon, who was the granddaughter of hesitation or, when leading, giving me our own Cecil Slingsby. I am grateful some confidence. This, to John Snoad of llkley for reminding of course, was me of this relationship and sending me years after his great days when, along with Kirkus, Jack Longland and a copy ofthe Slingsbyfamily tree. Menlove Edwards, he had pioneered Following his cremation on November some ofthe great routes of Snowdonia 20th 1996, four members of the Club and the Lake District. By comparison attended the Wake held at the Farmers' my climbs with 'AB.' were modest Arms, Greenodd, which we will indeed. remember as a joyous social occasion Many other members will share as 'AB.' would have wished. It was rather like a multi-club joint meet, with memories of 'AB.' In the fifties and good food and wine, the company of sixties he was a regular attender at the New Year parties that I then arranged, old friends and the sharing of many memories. and as John Lovett will confirm he was an enthusiastic member of the annual My own first meeting with 'AB.' was I private pot-holing parties based at suspect earlier than any attending the Harden. 'AB.' was also a frequent Wake. It was in August 1938, shortly guest at our Annual Dinners, after my 17th birthday, and I was sometimes representing either the enjoying an extended stay at Idwal Climbers' Club, the Wayfarers', or the Youth Hostel. The warden then was Fell and Rock, ofall ofwhich he had at Connie Alexander, who looked kindly some time been president. His last on any budding youthful climbers. appearance amongst us was as my Lacking any regular climbing partner it guest at our Centenary Dinner and, but became my habit to loiter at the foot of for his last illness, he would have been Milestone Buttress or Idwal Slabs, with the guest of Mike Hobson at our most a 100 ft. ofJones' Alpine line, eager to recent dinner. cajole any chance companion up any climb within my modest ability. It was I feel greatly privileged to have known on one such day that I met three 'AB.', a superb climber in his day and, climbers at the foot ofIdwal Slabs who to the last, one of the great characters invited me to join them. We did Tennis of British mountaineering. Shoe, Holly Tree Well, Devil's George Spence1ey Staircase and Devil's Kitchen; no big deal today perhaps, but it was in nails

The YRCBulletin 55 Summer 1997 relates to the ethos of the YRC as I see it.

I'm not sure how much reliance I would personally place upon Emest Robert's alleged approval for Ladies Mountaineers, Evenings; I believe that he was a Company Directors lifelong bachelor! I cannot however, see anything wrong in permitting and Bimbos ourselves the luxury of entertaining our Ladies now and again without Dear Editor having to apologise for it. If my wife I don't know for certain if my friend (Yes, she is my wife and I am her Dennis Armstrong's report on the husband with all that this implies) 1996 Ladies Weekend (Bulletin issue invited me to a Men's Evening at her 6, page 51) was aimed at me but in Women's Institute I would have no view of the final paragraph, and ethical problem with that. If she were bearing in mind the fact that I am to a good mountaineer and wished to be be the leader of the 1997 Ladies in a Ladies' Climbing Club (or a mixed Weekend, I suspect that it was so one, if that were her inclination), I directed, particularly in view of my would have to accept that also. well-known & strongly held opinions regarding the masculinity of the As for political correctness, this is a YRC! phrase that recalls the views of the late unlamented Hen Doktor I . think that Dennis' report was Goebbels, indicating as it does the probably written with tongue firmly in concept that you can hold any view on cheek, but calculated nevertheless to any subject just so long as it is provoke some response. If so, then it acceptable to the "party", EVelY has worked. No matter whether tyranny relies on political Dennis meant the tenor of his article correctness to maintain itself That to be flippant, serious or both, I intend aside, I think that Dennis shoots to respond fairly seriously to what I himself in the foot here. On the one believe to be a serious subject. If hand he suggests that the Club 110 Dennis is able thereby to sit back and longer "patronises" it's ''partners'' laugh at me for rising to his bait then whilst on the other hand stating that so be it. there are other meets at which we can test our "grasp, endurance & sinews". I have previously explained my views We can't have it both ways. Either conceming the YRC remaining a we have a proper open weekend men's club, and how I feel that it does during which we organise a major our lives and our relationships good caving trip, rock or ice climbing, hard to be able to follow our pursuits with fellwalking or perhaps a high camp, or our Club and temporarily away from else we have a pleasant social our womenfolk, so I won't repeat weekend with activities to please our them; suffice it to say that they womenfolk who are, for the most part, haven't changed. So I will stick to the wives who happen to have matter of the Ladies Weekend, so­ outdoorsmen as husbands. I'm sure called 'political correctness' & how it that no sensible Women's Club would

'!11C YRC Bulletin 56 Summer 1997 be so silly as to hold a mixed event at To the missing which there were to be activities likely to underwhelm, or be beyond 1950s & 1960s the competence of, most of the Members menfolk present. Dear Editor So don't hold your breath whilst I had the happy experience of being waiting for any "reconstruction" or introduced to Jack Williamson at a "new politics" in the 1997 Ladies Club lecture in Leeds. Jack had not Weekend. So far as I am concerned it been on meets for many years due to will be another welcome opportunity business commitments. He felt that he to entertain our wives and ladyfriends would not know anyone. However I in a way intended to please as many persuaded him that it would not be a of them as possible irrespective 'of problem as even the newer members whether they are mountaineers or were the same sort ofmen as those in needleworkers, company directors or his active days. housewives, bimbos or grandmothers He came along to a long walk and or any permutations thereof helped with the support making By the way, a few bimbos would be friends with Ralph Hobson and subsequently joined us on many meets. especially welcome, even if they do have their hunky blokes to look after Two weeks before he died in 1979 he them. wrote to me to say how much those last ten years of association with the Club and his two years as Vice President, 1976-1978, had meant to him. W. C. 1. Crowther The 1960s and 1970s were, for me, wonderful years of activity. Now looking through the handbook I see a number who were, like me, young. in those halcyon days. Sadly we don't see them on meets these days: perhaps their reasoning is the same a s Jack's. I, along with others of the same vintage, would be delighted to see' them on meets again: they would certainly be most welcome.. We would ensure that they would feel part of the meet and they could renew old friendships and make new ones. The Club is going through another great phase: why not be part ofit? ~J_ David Smith

The YRC Bulletin 57 Summer 1997 No ulterior motive... crown of gold upon feet of clay." Do you agree?' And he answered 'Yes, I do.' just a sense of humour Full marks for brevity and succinctness; Dear Editor nought for logic and imagination. It is always pleasing to have proof What could I add when I had run out of positive that someone has read your facts? Then I recalled that I had heard at writings and indeed flattering when that least two members say in years gone by someone believes he has discerned an that they could not possibly come to a ulterior motive behind the writing. Alas I Ladies Weekend because their wives have to inform Ian that in putting two and thought the concept was an insult. And I two together, he has made four and a half. sought to say, in a flippant way: Please I am afraid he did not enter my mind when Mrs Modem Woman, do not be put off by I was writing the Meet Report. the title. Come along and join us, and you I do confess, Mr Editor, that I did have a will have a very enjoyable time. And be motive in the way I wrote the Meet tolerant of the YRC, it is not easy to think Report. For after all, to report on the of another title. But alas in my attempts Ladies Weekend is hardly serious stuff. to gain marks for logic and imagination, A Meet Report should be there to record and to inject some humour into a routine what was done, and to be consulted by kind of Meet Report to make it readable, I those who may come after. The chances gave Ian the impression that I was that my meet report would be consulted opening a discussion to change the format because of 'something new' was frankly of the whole weekend. Sorry, lan, but remote. One can write that we were in thank you for responding, and Joan and I area ABC, that we walked around XYZ look forward to coming to your Ladies and we were all thankful to PQR for Weekend in 1997. arranging it so well. Two lines and the Yours very truly facts are complete. I an reminded of the schoolboy who, in a history examination, ~~,(~~, was asked the question: ' 'In the sixteenth Dennis Armstrong century, the Spanish Monarch had a

A Song for the Yorkshire Ramblers by Bill Todd Inspired by the Ennerdale Meet October 1996. To be sung to the tume of'Pretty Polly Perkins'.

We're the York shi re Ramblers, a hill walking club, We lunch in high places andnever at the pub, We go out when there's a meet on come shine or come rain, Andstagger back at tea-time with rheumatic pain, We're the old Yorkshire Ramblers, an outdoor society, We behave at all times with the utmostpropriety.

We went up to Ennerdale to have a club meet The rain was so heavy that we all got wet feet, But we came back to the Scout Hut andAndrew's good cheer, To finish offthe evening with a glass ofcool beer, We're the old Yorkshire Ramlers, we never say die, Wejust keep on hopingfor a patch ofblue sky.

The YRCBulletin 58 Summer 1997 Lowstem RLH Langdale 10-12 March 1995 Joint Meet with Wayfarers Twenty members and their guests attended 20-22 September 1996 the meet and three future members arrived to The threatened break in the dry weather discuss the Himalayan meet. There was a did not occur making for excellent fifty-fifty tally between potholers and others. conditions on the hills with the exception Saturday was a day of intermittent rain and Sunday a day of continuous sunshine. of Saturday morning which was too windy for the proposed climbing trips. On Saturday ten potholers entered Easegill Caverns by way of county Pot. The stream Friday 20th was in spate. Some distance beyond Poetic The President and two members visited Justice seven of the party turned back Cliff Downham in Westmorland General because of the flooding. The other three managed to traverse above the waterline to Hospital to convey fraternal greetings Eureka Junction. Upstream there was deep from the members. water in the main stream to Stop Pot. A number of small parties of YRC The party visited Carrot Chamber, then members were able to arrive at the meet returned via Manchester Bypass, a tortuous early and get out onto the Langdale fells high-level route avoiding the flood-prone via the traditional route to Pavey Ark stream passages. Emerging at 3 0'clock they found the entrance to Wretched Rabbit with two members enjoying the Passage and descended a sporting steam pleasures of a scramble up Jacks Rake. passage leading again to Eureka Junction A lone member scrambled up via the and then out by the entry route. environs ofScout Crag. There were two walking parties of four A most enjoyable meal and members each. The party playing away went up to the Lake District, parked at Dovedale conversations were had in the evening ­ and walked up via Dove Crag to Fairfield. the RLH is a superb hut. The home party set out to visit three Saturday 21st outstanding features of the area - the Norber A rapid sorting out ofYRC and Kindred Erratics, the ancient juniper forest and a single but outstanding fossil embedded in a Clubs saw a YRC party at seven make rock face somewhere near Moughton Scars. for Helm Crag via a route skirting Raw The erratic presented no problem and in due Pike and down into Easedale to then course several acres of juniper bushes were ascend Helm Crag. The route across the traversed, as was a large areas of somewhat confusing area around Carrs disintegrating and slippery clints, but the is not known to many, being away from party failed to find the fossil. the more popular routes. However, it is On Sunday the trio of potholers descended well worth while to arrive at High Raise Lancaster Hole via Cape Kennedy, the where it is challenging to identify the far President and two other members climbed on Twistleton Scar and one member went para­ ranging familiar shapes of oft climbed gliding. Three others walked up Pen-y­ hills and crags. The sun broke through Ghent. the fast moving clouds to illuminate The commissariat was highly effective. Bowfell buttress and the Great Slab of A.B. Craven. Bowfell across the valley with dramatic Attendauce: The President - Derek Bush effect. Footpath maintenance has made Ken Aldred Arthur Salmon AlauBrown Graham Salmon the descent of Stake Pass into Mickleden Ian Carr DavidSmith much easier than in recent years of C1iffCobb MartynWakemau Arthur Craven Andrew Wilkinson (G) erosion. Refreshment was taken at the Ian Crowther Frank Wilkinson Old Dungeon Gill Hotel where a Mike Godden Mike Hartlaud (BPC) Himalayan Meeting number of parties came together. Bill Lofthouse GedCampion Kelvin Nutmau (G) Alan Kay A mixed group of YRC and Kindred Peter Price RoryNewmau Alister Renton DavidSmith Clubs had made their way to Crinkle

The YRC Bulletin 59 Summer 1997 Crags by going up Oxendale and gill scrambling out onto the tops to go over Bowfell and down to the ODG whilst a Attendance: small party of Wayfarers had ascended Esk Pike by way of Rossett Gill and then YRCMembers made their way to the ODG over Bowfell and Hell Gill. J. Alderson (G) Ken Aldred All parties made it to the RLH with little Denis Armstrong time to spare for the pre-meal Denis Barker socialising. AlanBrown A most enjoyable evening with many Derek Bush (President) invitations between friends to take wine. CliffCobb Talk of forth- coming trips to Scotland, Arthur Craven the Alps, the Himalayas and the Mike Godden possibility at a cross glacier expedition Richard Gowing in Iceland was heard all around. In the Eddie Edwards latter case, events a few weeks later David Hanley when the volcano erupted beneath the Mike Hartland glacier may well have caused a rethink! David Laughton Sunday 22nd. D. Raylton (G) Fortunately the wind had dropped to Alistair Renton enable the President and an ex-President Harry Robinson to make for Bowfell where two ropes JimRusher enjoyed that most classic of classic John Schofield climbs - Bowfell Buttress by the direct David Smith route. From experience it is known to Derek Smithson increase in difficulty as the holds Peter Swindells become more polished by wear as years Mike Wilson go by.

One YRC member made off to join Wayfarers friends on a cross Morecambe Bay walk whilst four other skirted Scout Crag with S. Auty its resident mountain goat and gill G. Chambers scrambled up White Gill and then went A. Furgerson over Pavey Ark to the Langdale Pikes. M. Gee After the hard work of cleaning the hut H Jacob the remaining Wayfarers scrambled over J. Jacob the Tarn Crag to Stickle Tarn before D. Wood descending down the blue route to RLH.

A most enjoyable and successful meet Rucksack helped by good weather but not possible without the hard work and organisation N. Cocville of the meet leader and members of the W. Ryecroft host Kindred club to whom on behalf of the YRC I most sincerely thank them. Mike Hartland

TIle YRe Bulletin 60 Summer 1997 Monday onwards although this did not Alpine Meet deter several parties having excellent Ailefroide, mountaineering and rock climbing days as the reports will reveal. Dauphine Alps We had as guests ofthe Club, brought July / August 1996 by Tim Bateman, Jennie AlIen of the Rugby MC and Pete Hardy of the Hinchley MC. They were assets to Compiled by John Devenport from the party both on the mountain and contributions supplied by members socially back in camp. It is only when and guests recounting their you are sharing a rope with much experiences on the meet. younger people, on what for the writer are serious mountains do you realise that Anno Domini is catching up with The President's Overview you. by Derek Bush As a first visit to an Alps meet I was somewhat apprehensive. Would I The Club last visited Ailefroide in cope in the huts and the early starts? 1991. In John Devenports excellent 3.30 am was never my best time of introduction to that meet report he day, never mind thinking about described in detail the location, the donning plastic boots, gaiters, camp site, the maps and guide books climbing harness, head torches and all required and even the weather! I have the other paraphernalia of the no intention of plagiarising John's 'modem' climber. Did I cope? You report and will merely remind readers had better ask my companions but I that Ailefroide lies at the head of the can only say my holiday would have Gyronde {Vallouise} Valley at a been far more traumatic and therefore height of 1500m. much less enjoyable without the help, For some of us towing caravans, the assistance and cajoling of all my most exciting, perhaps I should say companions young and old alike. terrifying part of the whole holiday I thank them sincerely. was the ascent {and decent} by road from L'Argentiere, This is ignoring the one way tunnel systems which still seem to be operating on the east side Maps and guide books ofthe Lautaret pass! It is hoped that The most useful map was Cartes IGN next years Alps meet is more caravan 3436ET 'Meije and Pelvoux' which friendly. Older members will scoff covered the whole of the Pare and say the Club is becoming too soft. National des Ecrins at a scale of I am sure there is scope for an article, 1:25,000. Walking and ski-touring humorous or otherwise, in a routes, together with the refuges were subsequent bulletin. clearly marked. The only other variation to the 1991 The Alpine Club Guide 'Ecrins Massif account was of course the weather. - Selected Climbs', though not giving 1991 seemed to be better. The first all of the routes, was more than week or our 1996 meet was excellent adequate for the mountaineering needs but mixed weather arrived the second during the meet.

The YRC Bulletin 61 Summer 1997 The attendees but Mark and Alister kept a look out for any improvements in the weather. The following members and guests After a slight improvement in sampled the delights ofthis part ofthe conditions we departed from the hut French Alps for all or part ofthe meet: at approximately six 0 clock. Jennie Allen The peak provided a varied route, Dennis Annstrong initially over moraine leading to a Joan Annstrong snowy col. The col enabled me to put TimBateman on my strap-on crampons, for the first DerekBush time, in extremely windy conditions ­ John Devenport it was almost inevitable that they Marcia Godden would come off on descent. The Mike Godden second part ofthe ascent was in cloud, Pete Hardy over a forty five degree snow slope. Katrina Holt This was an excellent experience, MarkPryor although traffic on the slope was bad, Alister Renton from those people who had begun an Q~llton early descent. At the second col we Neil Renton removed our rucksacks for a fifty Arthur Salmon metre rock climb, which Alister Graham Salmon + Sally impressively led. The final part of the David Smith peak was a scramble over rocky Elspeth Smith terrain before a second snow slope Frank Wilkinson leading to the summit cairn. The view from the 3663m peak was poor but the pleasure of reaching the top subdued this disappointment. Montagne des Agneaux The descent was, for me, surprisingly rapid - although the clear in the by Neil Renton weather was untimely - giving a view This mountain was to be the first peak of the exposed abseil. Arrival back at ofthe Alpine Meet and my first major the hut saw better weather and snow peak. The first Sunday of the enabled a dry walk down to the car meet trip saw the departure ofAlister, park - where David and myself saw a Alex and Mark, Jenny, Tim and Pete, marmot which, according to David, and finally David, Derek and myself: had been tamed at the circus! The for the Glacier Blanc hut. The two mountain was a thoroughly enjoyable hour walk to the hut gave us all day out that gave me the desire to fabulous views ofMount. Pelvoux and have a go at the Barre des Ecrins. Ailefroide Upon arrival at the hut we booked in, A bivouac in the Ecrins finding the small self catering room. Dinner lived up to the usual standard ­ by Pete Hardy all appreciating David's culinary It was hard work ascending the expertise. Everybody rose at four to winding path from Pre De Madame find horrendous weather conditions ­ Carle toward the Glacier Blanc. Each the majority headed off back to bed, ofus was hampered by the 401b. pack

Tuc YRC Bulletin 62 Summer 1997 we shouldered under the hot afternoon What a lucky stroke! We were clearly sun. Every step an agony, the Refuge not the first to spot the sites potential. Du Glacier Blanc seemed to take an There were already stone shelters eternity to reach. We had travelled this erected for the siting of two bivi bags way before, yet we each still revelled (Alister and I) and there was ample in the fantastic views afforded us; room for Jennie and Tim to erect the Mont Pelvoux its summit partly tent they had carried up between them. obscured by cloud with the Glacier des This was a site made in heaven; flat Violettes draped over its northern (relatively), free of stone fall or flank; L' Ailefroide massif clearly avalanche danger, close to a supply of visible showing its East summit, scene clean snow (for drinks) and even with of our earlier adventures closest to us. a supply ofwood. (There were about a Ifhard labour was the price to pay for dozen small planks of wood scattered all ofthis, then it was surely worth it. over the platform, some partly buried in snow). Quickly realising the We stopped off at the refuge and each potential, and ignoring the rule about of us paid 16 Francs for a can of cold open fires, we built a small fire over pop and we sat in the sun watching which to cook. Choughs gliding in the mountain air for a while. We resumed our journey; The fire was fantastic. We melted the upwards over the moraine heaps above snow I had dug from deep in the snow the refuge at first, and then onto the field and prepared drinks. We cooked glacier itself This late in the season the usual dehydrated meal (rice and there was no problem with deep layers curry or something similar) and used of snow hiding crevasses, and so we rocks warmed by the fireside to fend did not rope up. We travell..cd along off the night chill. We were in great the northern edge of the glacier, spirits, taking photographs aplenty. We avoiding impressively contorted were amazed at 9pm to see two parties crevasses as we did so. It was descending the north face ofthe Barre approaching 7pm by the time we des ECl1nS. The first was quite fast, but reached the point at which Mark, the second was desperately slow. We Derek and Neil would depart for the watched them descend as far as the col Refuge Des Ecrins. By now the des ECl1nS, but failing light caused us Glacier was mostly in shadow as the to lose sight. We could only assume sun dropped low behind the they had bivouacked high on the surrounding peaks. glacier or that they were descending to We carried on along the glacier for a la Berarde (rather them than us!). short distance, and could already see It was close to 10pm by the time we one party bivouacking on the ice turned in; I slept in my thermals, my ahead. Tim suggested we did likewise, fleece, my four season bag and a but I said we might be wiser Goretex bivi bag. The muffled sound investigating the rock spur above us. I of running water kept me awake for a let Tim go ahead of me - his energy while, the I imagination running wild, seemed boundless even now - whilst but after about an hour I managed to Jennie and Alister waited on the ice get to sleep. below. I was almost up with Tim when 3.30 am next morning and I was he shouted his enthusiastic approval to awake to my alarm. I donned my the rest ofus. contact lens, grateful that I did not drop it onto my bivi bag which was

The YRC Bulletin 63 Summer 1997 covered in a thick layer of frost. I I slept very well that night after sprang promptly out of 'bed'. The spending a little while looking at the valley below was full of cloud but at stars and spotting the passing 3,300m we were cloud free. Ten satellites. It was soon morning and the minutes later as Tiro. emerged from his weather was initiallygood. We walked tent we were enshrouded in the cloud down to the path to meet the others from the valley. Another ten minutes from the hut. and it had receded again - a reminder We made good progress up the path of how quickly things can change in but there was a large number of the mountains. parties on it. The whole team was It took about an hour to melt snow for doing fine - Neil and Mark had not drinks, to eat a fiugal breakfast and to before scaled a 4000m peak but they get roped up. As we descended had no problems, After a while cloud towards the glacier Blanc the Barre started to form over the summit and it des Ecrins was free ofcloud and hopes was not long until we could see no were high. further than the end of our noses!!! The weather gradually got worse and it started to snow!! We finally anived at the col where you turn left for the real summit and right for the dome. Dome des Ecrins We at first turned left but soon turned by Mister Renton back as the route was very unclear and the weather was getting worse. We After successfully completing decided it was unwise to travel much Montagne des Agneaux and Ailefroide higher and as such we visited the we decided that we were ready to go dome and descended as quickly as for the big one. Ecrins is the largest possible. peak in the area and as such it had to be done. Once back down onto the glacier Neil, Derek and Mark moved off down The party included Neil, Mark, Jennie, while I headed back to the bivi site to Tim, Pete , Derek and myself We collect my gear. It was still snowing backtracked up the path to the Glacier and moral was quite low! ! Blanc hut passing the large number of tourists who were giving our massive I moved of down the glacier and rucksacks very funny looks - due to bumped into Tim, Jennie and Pete so I the plan of bivi-ing I was carrying dulywaited for them as I did not fancy about 17.5 kg. walking down by myself! ! Once at the hut the President treated Quite quickly the snow turned to rain. the team to a well earned can ofcoke. Before we knew it we were at the I will not tell you how much the drinks Glacier Blanc. From then on the path cost!!! Once refreshed we headed on was never ending! ! what was now the glacier. The going The trip was an excellent experience was quite easy but the size ofthe pack and not to be missed. It was a shame made it difficult. Once near the hut the to have missed the real top but it will party split in two. The more wealthy be there another year. members stayed in the hut, having all meals provided, while the rest of us had a rather nice bivi.

The YRC Bulletin 64 Summer 1997 From the col, a rocky ridge led A First Alpine Ascent towards the summit in just a few by Katrina Bolt & minutes, where we took a well deselved rest amongst the magnificent John Devenport scenery. Highlight of the panorama It was all rather different to the rolling was the north face of the Barre des countryside of the North Downs in Ecrins, looking absolutely pristine at deepest Kent and even higher than the the head of the valley, covered in a Lakeland Peaks. It was Katrina's first generous coat of new snow, which attempt to climb in the Alps, but we was captured on film, ofcourse. hoped that during the course of our We did not hang around too long, as stay in Ailefroide we'd make an ascent cloud was now starting to swirl ofone ofthe surrounding peaks. around us, and it looked most After a few 'warm up' walks during impressive as it boiled up from the the first few days, we took the plunge south side ofthe Barre des Ecrins. and set off after lunch for the Glacier It was a straightforward descent back Bland Hut. A steady plod brought us to the hut, where we stopped briefly to the glacier snout from where the to rest and eat, then back down to the hut seemed tantalisingly close, campsite, where Katrina partook of although in reality there was still some another fine YRC 'tradition' as way to go. A very heavy shower in Elspeth very kindly greeted us with a the late afternoon kept the hordes bottle ofcold beer each, to celebrate a away, so the hut was surprisingly successful first alpine ascent! quiet, and after a filling meal we retired to the luxury ofa whole row of bunks to ourselves. However, I still East Summit of didn't sleep! L'Ailfroide (3847m) Our intended peak was the Pie de Glacier d'Arsine {3368m}, so we by David Smith were not woken by the hut guardian This being my third visit to the area it­ until 5 am. From the hut, we made becomes increasingly difficult to add our way up the broken ground to the another major peak when others have glacier, where we roped up, strapped their eyes on different ascents. My on crampons and picked up the ice luck was in when a group of us axe, all of which were new decided on L'Ailefroide. The experiences for Katrina. mountain is a particularly complicated Progress along the side of the glacier massif and I am not sure which ofthe was steady, before we cut up to the three summits we were aiming for, but right, initially through rocks, then up a in the end fate took us to the top of broad cwm towards our mountain. the east summit. We made slow but steady progress It is quite a pleasant walk to the new winding our way around short bands Sele hut, about a mile nearer then the of rock, to keep to the snow slopes old one, from our camp site through almost the whole way to the col, with beautifully wooded country following frequent stops to catch our breath in the liver Celise Niere for about seven the rarefied atmosphere. miles. Then the path divided, a zig­ zag track heads offnorthwards to the

The YRC Bulletin 65 Summer 1997 Pelvoux hut, whereas our track skirts members were now well out of sight the Coste de Sialouze moraines to but as soon as we were off the snow what appears to be an impregnable we found then basking in the sunshine. wall 300m high. A spectacular path We had little difficulty retracing our picked its way up the wall with steps as it was well cairned. Back at exposure at places demanding extreme the steep gully we had no problem in care. At some points the path is crossing it without rope as all the hold protected by wire cable covered with seemed to be in our favour in this green plastic garden hose. direction. Over the ridge the final track to the There were threatening clouds in the Refuge Sele soon appeared at 2511m, sky, the younger members having the most modem hut in the Massif It escorted Derek and lover the difficult had good facilities for self cookers bits were very soon out of sight. We unlike the pathetic situation at the took our time, at one point misleading Glacier Bland hut. The temperature in information painted on a rock wall the dortoir was not oppressive, so for caused us some unnecessary ascent. once we all had a reasonable nights The rain came before we reached the sleep. hut where we rejoined our friends, After a brief rest we set off down the All too soon it was 4 am and time to steep wall track to regain the valley. depart, we were the last away and confused by other climbers head We were certainly glad of the torches we followed the wrong lights. protection of the rope on the wet After a map check we changed for the slippery rock. Before we reached the alternative routs. The track took to a valley the rain stopped for the last gap between the snow and a rock wall stage of the expedition. It was a first where a overhang and our rucksacks class climb with much variety in the made the transfer awkward. Good terrain and in the make-up ofthe team rock scrambling followed until we which did much for the enjoyment of came .to a open gully dropping the trip. hundreds of feet steeply below us. It Team: Jenny Allen, Derek Bush, Tim was a potentially dangerous place and Bateman, Pete Hardy, Mark Pryor, a fixed rope was used. Alister Renton and David Smith. The route followed a descending traverse to rocky couloir which is climbed on the lift until a series of Pelvoux South Face snow fields in gained. Relatively steep snow in good condition lead us to the by Mark Pryor 3847m Orientale summit where we With just a few days of the Alpine were lucky to have excellent views Meet left, Tim Bateman and I decided down the Glacier Noir. The president to round off an excellent fortnight and the writer were the last to gain the with an ascent of Mont Pelvoux, via summit and had the mountain and its its South Face, pioneered in 1828 by magnificent views to ourselves until AADurand and party. the mist took away the vista. The peak is one of the most majestic The snow condition had deteriorated in the range, at 3946 it is also one of with snow balling up dangerously the highest. We had both been under our crampons. The younger impressed by the sight ofits awesome

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 1997 north face, which dominated the With these treacherous snow slopes skyline on previous trips to the Glacier out of the way, we made good Blanc and Ecrins huts. progress, scrambling up greasy, wet rock to the edge of the Sialouze In his book 'Outline sketches in the glacier. Here, we decided to rope up High Alps of Dauphine' T.G.Bonney as we looked at the next part of the described the locals: "The people in route. You have a choice at this point; many parts are stunted, cowardly and either climb the Rochers Rouge, a feeble, and appear to be stupid and great mass of rock which takes you almost cretins". With this in mind, we right up to the Pelvoux Glacier, or decided not to stay in the Pelvoux hut, climb the Coolidge couloir, also to the but to bivouac on a large hog's back Pelvoux Glacier, where the routes of scree about twenty minutes' walk rejoin. Being British, we chose the further on. This also gave us the couloir, first climbed by chance to see where the route went W.A.B.Coolidge with the famous for the following morning. After a Christian Almer father and son quick meal of soup and bread, we combination as guides. Halfway up the were in our bags, staring up at the couloir, I wasn't feeling so patriotic. cloud filled sky. "I want to see the In fact, as I stood bent over my axe stars when I wake up" said Tim, gasping for breath, I was thinking hopefully. We pondered this remark in where Mr Coolidge could shove his our own separate ways as the first stupid couloir. However, we were spots ofrain hit our bivi bags. soon on the top, and it was only short In the morning the weather had not walk along the ridge to Pointe improved, a light drizzle joined us for Puiseux, the summit ofMont Pelvoux. breakfast, and great swathes of mist The weather, meanwhile, had obscured the route ahead. In the hut improved all the way up the mountain. below, nothing stirred, As we drank It had long since stopped raining and our tea, we decided to make an patches of blue had even appeared in attempt on the peak anyway. There the sky. But when we reached the was no way we were going down to summit, it was in cloud. We agreed the campsite without at least giving it that this must be the top, but both of a try, after spending such a wretched us had nagging doubts as we began night out in the open! the descent. Suddenly, the clouds The first part of the route went along parted and all around was clear, so we the left bank ofthe Clot de l' Homme hurried back to the top, just to be glacier, across snow slopes which had sure. There was no need for concern, failed to freeze overnight. her the however, and soon the cameras were difference in our relative experience out for heroic summit poses. showed. Tim striding purposefully The descent was largely uneventful, ahead, a blend of confidence and stopping once to coil the rope, and ability, me blundering along with all of again at the hut to buy a mink. We the attributes of the 19th century were hoping to be greeted with French peasantry mentioned earlier. It fanfares and rapturous applause on wasn't long before I slipped clumsily arrival at the campsite, but the place on the snow and fell. To my surprise I was deserted. Elspeth was there braked well with my axe, text book though, and she rewarded our efforts style, and thus served to boost my with cold bottled beer. confidence for the rest ofthe route.

The YRC Bulletin 67 Summer 1997 83rd Annual Dinner, that to be changed. Whoop Hall is located in that four-mile tongue of Whoop Hall, Lancashire that divides Yorkshire Kirby Lonsdale from Cumbria. The landlord asked us, tongue in cheek, which county we 9 November 1996 would like it to be in for the weekend. Whoop Hall is wonderfully placed to No two dinner weekends are quite the give easy access to Gragareth, Ease same but his one must be unique. At Gill and the Barbon Fells, a new area the moment ofhand over ofpower the for after dinner walks. There were President looked round for the new walks for all abilities. It turned out a President and there was no sign of beautiful day with bright clear skies. him. Well he might hand over to the We took the cars back to Cowan new Vice-President but there was no Bridge to avoid a dangerous stretch of sign of him either. It is a pity we no road and headed off up to the Three longer have a spare Vice-President as Men of Gragareth before taking in the in the old days. Members who did not summit cairn. From this vantage point attend the dinner will be relieved to all the local hills could be picked out. learn that they had both got the date However there was not enough time wrong and were enjoying their last for them all. days offreedom. Having traversed the eastern edge of At the Annual General Meeting there this offending tongue of Lancashire was considerable interest in the our next objective was Ease Gill forthcoming activities of the Club. which skirts the western edge of the Trekking in the Himalaya, potholing in tongue, we dropped down into this Oman, traversing the Icelandic most interesting stretch of water glaciers and the twelfth consecutive passing by many pots and sink holes annual Alpine meet. along the way. As they river TIle new dinner venue was a great meandered its way we inspected the success in the eyes of the majority. entrances ofthose famous holes ofthe The only real adverse point made was Ease Gill System and the spectacular that the ventilation could have been cliffs ofEase Gill Kirk. improved. Next year we will ask for Over the weekend many of us had in our minds that much loved and respected former member, Cliff Downham, who had spent many an \ exciting time under and over the ground hereabouts. No doubt he was with us in spirit. The weekend concluded with an excellent high tea back at the hotel. Our guests, to a man, expressed great satisfaction at the first-class weekend. David Smith

'l1le YRC Bulletin 68 SUlllIl1L~' 1997 Attendance: CliffLarge David Large (G) 87 sat down for the Dinnerl David Laughton Ken Aldred Alan Linford lain Anderson (PM) Bill Lofthouse John Barton Tim Lofthouse Bruce Bensley Harvy Lomas Adrian Bridge Jerry Jovatt (AC) George Burfitt (G) John Lovatt DerekBush Stanley Marsden Ged Campion Don Mackay Albert Chapman Bill Mitchell (Chief Guest) Derek Clayton Peter Moss CliffCobb Nevil Newman Arthur Craven RoryNewman Frank Croll (BPC) ShaunPenny Robert Crowther Mike Pitt (PM) lan Crowther George Postill Andrew Duxbury Roy Precious (FRCC) Eddie Edkins (PM) MarkPryor Eddie Edwards Alister Renton Derek English (PM) NeilRenton Arthur Evans Chris Renton John Fowler (SMC) Keith Rifby (WC) Derek Gamble (G) JohnRiley Mike Godden Harry Robinson Richard Gowing JimRusher Stuart Grace (Grits) Arthur Salmon RalphHague Graham Salmon David Hall Roy Salmon David Handley John Scholfie1d Raymond Harben Michael Smith Mike Hartland David Smith Colin Hawkin John Snoad (G) John Hemmingway John Sterland Mike Hobson Pat Stonehouse David Holmes Peter Swindells JeffHooper Teny Temple (G) Gordon Humphreys Mike Thompson Jason Humphreys Bill Todd Howard Humphreys Martyn Wakeman Raymond Ince Sidney Waterfall Graham Jones John White AlanKay Frank Wilkinson Mike Kinder Maurice Wilson Will Lacy Eddie Whitaker (CPC)

1 Five others failed to materialise due to illness, work or mistaking the date.

The YRCBulletin 69 Stunmer 1997 Scottish Winter Meet snow under foot, made the conditions heavy going. Braemar The amount of snow was disappointing 20 - 22 February 1997 for February, and the skiing area at Glen Shee had no snow other than small Braemar was a refreshing change from patches. There may well have been our usual Glen Etive or Glen Nevis base, good snow above 3,500 feet, but wind and it makes a good starting point for strength over the weekend was too the Eastern Caimgorms, Lochnagar, and great for the higher tops. the hills around the Caimwell If the wind seemed strong on Friday, Our accomodation was in the Village then Saturday was significantly worse. Hall, where ample floor space could Average wind speed on the Caimwell have taken a patty of double the size. summit was 40 knots, with early The hall had a stage at one end, with morning gusts of 100 knots, reducing to curtains and floodlights, making a 80 knots (92 MPH) later in the morning. suitable platform for one of our guests with the gift ofthe gab to entertain us on The President's party set out to traverse Saturday night. Lochnagar in one direction, exchanging cars with another party heading in the Press reports of snow causing difficulty opposite direction. Starting at Spittal of on the Glen Shee to Braemar road might Glen Muick, a path leads by Loch have worried the intrepid, but there was Muick to the waterfall where the Glas no difficulty in reaching Braemar on Allt bum runs down from Lochnagar. Thursday night. Friday dawned to a The route over Lochnagar then leads fresh fall of I 1/2" ofsnow in the village. back to lnvercauld bridge by the old Strong winds also raised doubts about Military Road. the main Cairngorm plateau, so a route was suggested up a long mountain track One party reached Lochnagar by almost to Cam Bhac, 946m, a remote Munro crawling the last part of the route to West of the Caimwell This proved to avoid being swept away by the wind. be a popular objective, for two parties of The other party settled for the lesser six set offon the 15 mile round trip from pleasures ofMeikle Pap before deciding lnverey. The stalkers track leads for 5 that discretion was the better part of miles to a col by Cam Liath, followed by valour. a 3 mile Southerly ridge walk to reach A party of five climbed to Cam an t­ the named SW top of Cam Bhac. The Sagairt Mor and the White Mounth. true summit is three quarters ofa mile to Two members set out from Linn ofDee the NE. Conditions were difficult at to Derry Lodge and returned via times, with 40 MPH winds and Creagan nan Gabhar, the Corbett Sgor occasional wintry showers of fine ice Mor, and Sgor Dubh. particles reducing visibility to 30 yards. Another patty offive started from Glen One patty returned over Cam Creagach Shee, and picked their way through the and Creag an Lochan to lnverey. assorted ironmongery which seems to A second party ofthree started at Linn grow 'on ski slopes. The Caimwell and of Dee, passed Derry Lodge and Glen Aosda were climbed in the gusty Luibeg to the vicinity of Corrour bothy, conditions, by waiting for each gust to then turned South to White Bridge and pass, and then lurching forward a few back to Linn ofDee. This route climbs yards at a time. To atone for climbing to 2000 feet, and the strong wind with

The YRC Bulletin 70 Summer 1997 two such easy Summits, the patty then climbed" "Morrone, :a . Corbett· near Braemar, only to find that it also was topped by sheds and tele­ communications ironmongery. Sunday was indeed sunny, and parties set out on both sides of the Devils Elbow, before returning home. The meet was a great success, and credit must again go to Derek Bush our meet leader. There is a rumour that those who attend Braemar next year will have to rehearse a 5 minute music hall turn, but surely we cannot be soft enough to forgo camping two years running for a centrally heated meet with running hot water? Cwm Glas lain Gilmour Attendance: Tim Josephy - President Ken Aldred TimBateman DerekBush lain Gilmour Robin Hudson (G) Stuart Thomson (P.M.) Richard Gowing JeffHooper Gordon Humphreys Howard Humphreys Frank Milner Stan Bradshaw (G) Vie Maloney (G) MarkPryor Arthur Salmon Graham Salmon David Smith Derek Smithson Frank Wilkinson Dream ofWhite Horses Banie Wood Daniel Wood (P.M.)

The YRCBulletin 71 Summer 1997 Lowstern into pubs and have very inconsiderately taken to going up onto remote and 14-16 March 1997 inaccessible fellsides ! Who knows? The weather forecast for the weekend had Our meet leader and his team provided us been reasonably decent, so it was with with large plates of chicken dinner and an hopes for a good meet that members enormous 'bread & butter pudding' which foregathered at Lowstem On The Friday they constructed on the spot with their Evening, some to go out for pub meals own fair hands, and which was very well and pints, others staying in the hut to received, all washed down with copious yam. Two members erected tents outside quantities of 'vin plonk' to' avoid the snores, only to be awoken at about 5.00 am by the rooks in the After dinner, Harvey showed us a few of plantation, who were in fine voice. the slides that were taken during the recent Omani caving expedition. Saturday morning was pretty horrible ­ drizzly, cold and miserable, not promising Sunday morning wasn't really much at all. Nevertheless, plans had been laid better than Saturday, so some members for caving, so two underground parties set went off home quite early. Not everyone, off for their respective holes in the though. Some keen cave explorers went to ground, whilst a walking group set off in have a look at one of their current 'digs' the 'mizzle' to traverse Norber Scar and to at least update themselves on the on to Horton-in-Ribblesdale before situation there whilst the President and returning via Austwick to recover from a two others went off to Dentdale for a soggy day. fellwalk in the drizzle which persisted for most of the day. Others also probably The President's caving party walked up to went off doing other things that must go the G.G. area to tackle Disappointment unreported because your scribe simply Pot, but after struggling for some time in doesn't know about them. the entrance series made the decision to leave the field to the water and silt In spite of the poorish weather it was an deposits, and maybe return another day enjoyable, if not especially significant with some digging tools. "Dis." isn't meet. Everyone got out on the hill to do entered too often these days, and quickly something at least, and there was much builds up quantities of silt which, whilst discussion about the developing plans to quite readily removable, make for a very extend Lowstem. difficult passage without a digging W.C.I.Crowther implement.. They then moved over the Attendance: fellside to Christmas Pot where they had a satisfactory descent. The President - Tim Josephy Ken Aldred The other caving party comprising three TimBateman fairly veteran members plus one novice Bruce Bensley had a moist but pleasant gentlemanly trip AlanClare(G) through Calf Holes/Browgill Cave, and DerekClayton ~ . then went for a libation at the 'Golden Tan Crowther Lion' in Horton, where they spent a MikeHartland pleasant hour or so chatting to various DavidHick other veteran cavers! Harvey Lomas DavidMartindale Another pair went off looking for a Alister Renton reputed meet of the Lunesdale Foxhounds Graham Salmon which they failed to find in spite of the JohnSchofield fact that they looked into dozens of pubs! DavidSmith Perhaps foxhounds have given up going Frank Wilkinson PhilipWilkinson (G)

The YRC Bulletin 72 Summer 1997