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Inside the Industry Activities Operations Katie Tyler, a Member Rainer Wolter of the University’S Sustainability Commit- by Betsy Joyce Tee

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Inside the Industry Activities Operations Katie Tyler, a Member Rainer Wolter of the University’S Sustainability Commit- by Betsy Joyce Tee Philadelphia University Spring 2008 “I believe that menswear designers are Focus on. just as conscious of the environment as Focus on . Alumni womenswear designers,” said Philadelphia University Assistant Director of Student Inside the Industry Activities Operations Katie Tyler, a member Rainer Wolter of the University’s Sustainability Commit- By Betsy Joyce tee. “However, because there isn’t much Will Men Embrace the “Green Movement”? promotion of the men’s fashion industry, Rainer Wolter By Yuri Sin designers’ sustainability efforts aren’t be- graduated from The understand- ing publicized either.” Philadelphia Uni- ing that “green is Regardless of how people regard the versity’s Fashion the new black” has men’s fashion industry, designers who cater Design Program in been accepted by to both men and women are creating uni- 2003 and currently the women’s fashion sex looks. For example, women’s wear has resides in New industry. Designers been influenced by the traditional tailoring and sleekness found in men’s clothing, and York City. As a such as Stella McCa- 1. designer, he’s an rtney, Jill Saunders men’s attire has become more fitted and avid supporter of and Dai Fujiwara for slimming. According to internet journalist the green move- Issey Miyake have all 3. Bex Reisler, “Yves St. Laurent and Helmut ment, and believes sent eco-friendly mes- 2. Lang have both produced a wide range of in the practicality sages through their cigarette-skinny dress pants, narrow skirts of organic and sustainable fabrics and ma- extremely successful and short, tailored blazers that put focus terials. Rainer is the 2006 winner of the women’s collections over the years. How- on the shoulders.” TreeHugger Design Competition, sponsored ever, how long will it take for menswear de- Surprisingly, these new unisex looks by I.D. Magazine and the Sustainable Style signers to embrace “going green” and show haven’t generated more publicity for men’s Foundation, for his “Umbrella Inside Out” sustainable fashions in Mens’ Fashion Week? fashion. Because men’s fashion lacks pub- dress design. His innovative dress made Not a lot of people are aware when Men’s lic interest, it’s difficult to highlight envi- from used umbrellas found on the streets of Fashion Week begins. When asking several ronmentally conscience menswear. Despite New York was featured at the Ethical Fash- Fashion Merchandising and Fashion Design this, men’s fashion designers continue to ion Show in Paris that year. students at Philadelphia University what show their concern for the environment Rainer’s education at Philadelphia Univer- they thought about this major week for fash- through their clothing. sity gave him the ability to enter the fashion ion, each hesitated with their response; no Photos: world with a portfolio filled with more than one seemed to know about Men’s Fashion 1.) Paul Smith, www.style.com just “fancy little drawings.” He attributes Week. 2.) Kris Van Assche, www.style.com much of his preparation for the real world to 3.) Raf Simons, www.style.com being a member of the University’s Fashion Industries Association (FIA). Rainer started pursuing green fashion af- Rainer feels that it’s imperative to deter- Rainer’s advice to fashion majors is: draw ter being influenced to do so by his friend, mine what’s most important early on: your every day, intern as much as possible, get Romy Scheroder, owner of Satya Boutique in job or your ethics. involved, make contacts, never burn any Philadelphia, Pa. When asked, “What inspired Rainer learned how to balance his interests bridges, step outside of the box and push your career choice,” Rainer replied, “Romy; in fashion and giving back to the environment personal boundaries. He advises young she’s a brilliant artist, activist and an inspir- from working with Urban Zen, an initiative people to find what they really want out of ing soul—if she can do it, so can I.” that promotes well-being, the preservation life and go after it, because, according to In the past, Rainer’s interest in green of cultures and the empowerment of Rainer, “There’s nothing wrong with failing, fashion and opposition to the use of ani- children. “The most amazing thing about but there’s a great deal wrong with not mal fur put him in some sticky situations Urban Zen is its intention to inspire change trying.” at work. He has learned that his passions by funding initiatives that advocate for the don’t always fit in the work environment and cultures and children,” he said. that he must “pick his battles” accordingly. to wear to formal wear. Ralph Lauren and Eco-Fashions Versace each created elegant, floor-length Focus on . Retail gowns made of hemp and silk, while Narciso By Lisa Bonomo Rodriguez designed a stunning cocktail dress and Marni, Behnaz Sarafpour and Rodarte Grass Roots “Going green” may, perhaps, be the presented shorter, more casual dresses made By Cara Diamond most influential concept we have seen gain of organic cotton, abaca and silk. Calvin popularity in the past few years. People are Klein also contributed an airy, modern The number of advocates for a more beginning to turn to “organic,” “sustainable,” pantsuit and trenchcoat made of eco- environmentally friendly world has increased. and “eco-friendly” alternatives of many friendly fibers. Other participating designers However, with global warming posing more products. However, is the fashion world also included Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Donna of a threat to the environment each day, incorporating green into its designs? The Karan, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, promoting a greener world isn’t enough. answer is yes! Many designers are creating Rogan, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Three As The fashion industry is contributing to the sustainable designs by using organic cotton, Four and Yves Saint-Laurent. “green” effort by making organic material a as well as soy, bamboo fibers, bio-grain and The designers who showcased sustainable design staple. If you take a trip to Delaware, organic pigments. fashions at Fashion Week greatly affect and you can see the results of this practice Although environmentally conscious inspire our society, and ultimately cause firsthand. garments may conjure ideas of blandness, top fashion to evolve. As Coco Chanel once In the heart of the University of Delaware designers are producing anything but. For said, “Fashion is not something that exists campus, on Main Street in Newark, Del., example, during New York City’s recent Fashion in dresses only. It is in the sky, in the students and local residents are flocking to Week, Earth Pledge, a nonprofit organization street; fashion has to do with ideas, the way the eclectic displays of Grassroots Handcrafts, promoting sustainable development, held a we live, what is happening.” an eco-friendly store stocked with current “Future Fashion” runway show, displaying a fashions from green brands such as Free wide variety of eco-friendly styles. Dresses People, Hazel and Hobo International. exhibited during the show ranged from ready As soon as you walk in, the store’s down- to-earth staff make you feel at home, and after perusing the merchandise for a while, rooms rushing through work at the end of you’ll wish it was home. Often shoppers Focus on . the semester, they may have missed the news will walk in for a gift, and leave with a that organic clothing is obtainable for the bag filled with items. It’s hard to feel average student’s budget! Before you head bad about frequent shopping at Grassroots The Look for LESS home for the summer, make sure to pick up Handcrafts, because, by purchasing unique these essentials for the perfect outfit to see pottery designed by Follette; 2,000-year- By Kaity Doherty and Nicole Enterline your high-school friends. old, Roman, glass jewelry by Angie Olami; So throw on a light, white tank without Design critiques are over and the final or other artisan crafts, you’ll be supporting worrying about getting paint on it and some cram-time for tests are complete, so what independent artists from all over the country. summer-saturated jeans. And, with some is a girl to do? Shop, of course. But more The store’s other products, which attract woven, floral, wedge shoes, you can officially devoted shoppers, intrigued onlookers important, what is an eco-conscious college girl going to do? Well, they do not have to start off your four-month break in style–and and daily customers, include handmade with money to spare! jewelry boxes, soy candles and one-of-a-kind worry any longer! While students have been hidden in their houseware items. First established in 1975, Grassroots For Less Handcrafts, under the creative direction The Look of Marilyn Dickey and her former partner 2. Vonna Taylor, has expanded to a four-store operation. Through the years, it has been the 1. 3. 4. recipient of numerous awards in and around Delaware. Now a family business, the store vows to continue to sell environmentally and artistically supported goods. Due to its commitment to the environment, the store recently installed solar panels. A shop that treats its customers and the environment with respect is a shop that should be a staple in every community; and, 1. Wooden bangle, $8.99, www.target.com judging by Grassroots Handcrafts’ popularity, 2. Cream, button strap baby doll, $10, it just might happen. www.oldnavy.com 3. Holbrook Espadrille, $22.99, www.payless.com 4. Light blue, skinny jeans, $78, Source: Anna Cohen Catalogue www.levis.com 2 available at Target). A great, all-purpose cleaner can be derived from simply mixing Organic Homewear Focus on . warm water, vinegar and baking soda.
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