Mysterious Way PARIS — Olivier Theyskens Understands That It’S Often the Demure Girl Who Attracts the Most Attention in the Room

NEIMAN’S TAPS DOWNING/3 WWD SOURCING FORUM/8-11 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • March 14, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Mysterious Way PARIS — Olivier Theyskens understands that it’s often the demure girl who attracts the most attention in the room. Accordingly, his Rochas collection for fall was a lesson in intriguing subtlety, as demonstrated by this graceful long-sleeved gown printed with ﬂ ying blackbirds. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Handicapping the Stars: Which Young Designer Will Prosper in Future?

By Rosemary Feitelberg NEW YORK — Behnaz Sarafpour, Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen, Richard Chai and Trovata. What do these designers have in common? They’re among those who retailers predict could be the future big names in New York fashion. That is, if they don’t succumb to the pitfalls that have befallen so many of their predecessors: lack of financing, difficulty lining up quality production and getting floor space at retail. But stores agree there hasn’t been such a surge in new talent here in years. Of the 180 designers who showed in and See Forecasting, Page 12 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 WWD.COM Dsquared Signs Scent Deal With ICR By Stephanie Epiro contract with ICR-ITF for production and distribution of fra- WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles MILAN — Dsquared added an- grances and cosmetics, a pact other brick to the foundation of that will be renewable every fi ve its growing fashion brand when years. Distribution plans call for FASHION it announced a licensing agree- expansion from Italy and Europe A dress doesn’t have to be revealing to be sexy, as European designers ment with Italian fragrance man- in 2007 and a full distribution net- 6 proved with evening looks that showed little skin but plenty of allure. ufacturer ICR here Monday. work that’s expected to comprise Dan and Dean Caten, the twin some 35 countries by 2009, includ- GENERAL designers behind the 12-year-old ing countries in North America, RTW: Behnaz Sarafpour, Proenza Schouler and Richard Chai could be brand, and Roberto Martone, the Mideast, Central and South the next big designers if they don’t succumb to the industry’s pitfalls. chairman of ICR and its distribu- America, and Asia. Martone said 1 tion arm ITF, announced the fra- the fragrances will be distributed Dsquared added another brick to the foundation of its growing brand grance license at Dsquared’s new in 8,000 doors and be rolled out to 2 with a licensing agreement with Italian fragrance manufacturer ICR. glossy black, nearly 10,000-square- 14,000 points of sale. Ending months of speculation, Neiman Marcus Stores on Monday foot offi ces in Via Tortona. Martone and the designers named Ken Downing senior vice president and fashion director. “It’s an important step for us said that although a cosmetics 3 as a brand, as it shows we are line isn’t ruled out for the fu- Sourcing executives and government offi cials address key issues shap- growing stronger and bigger,” said ture, for now the license will re- 8 ing the supply chain at the fi rst WWD Sourcing Leadership Forum. Dan Caten. “It’s also a part of the main fragrance-focused. TRANSIT: Dubai Ports World’s offer to divest U.S. interests did little to new image our company is taking Both parties refused to dis- on. Our label has a look, and now close financial terms of the 14 ease concerns the controversy brought over port security. it has a smell.” Dan (left) and Dean Caten with agreement. Industry sources es- TEXTILES: The Colombiatex fair generated $33 million in business and “It’s the right timing,” added Roberto Martone. timate Dsquared’s fi rst-year fra- 15 gave local companies a chance to enhance the country’s poor image. Dean Caten. grance sales could reach about This is the sixth fragrance 10 million euros, or $11.9 million license for ICR-ITF, which also at current exchange. EYE holds fragrance licenses for BEAUTY BEAT “The brand has massive po- London may have been dripping with rain last week, but the skies were Roberto Cavalli, Extè, Gian- tential,” said Martone. 4 clear at Annabel’s, and the snow babes were out in force. franco Ferré, Romeo Gigli and with a follow-up fragrance slated Dsquared closed 2005 with Gai Mattiolo. to bow a year later. Whether the turnover of about 70 million Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 “I am really impressed with scents will be women’s or men’s euros, or $83.6 million. In addition To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Dsquared’s creativity, and most is still to be decided. to the fragrance license, the fash- [email protected], using the individual’s name. of all struck by the potential of “Dan and Dean have a very ion house currently holds a cloth- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- the brand — that really stands precise idea in their minds about ing and accessories production RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. as the driving force behind this what they want for their first license with Staff International, VOLUME 191, NO. 55. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- agreement,” said Martone. fragrance, down to the packag- a women’s footwear license with ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Development of Dsquared’s ing and the bottle, which for us Vicini and a men’s footwear li- Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers fi rst fragrance is already under is an exciting way to work,” said cense with Galizio Torresi. Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; way. The scent is scheduled to Martone. — With contributions from David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior be launched in September 2007, Dsquared signed a 12-year Courtney Colavita Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. 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All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. has sold its Myer business to a Melbourne, Australia. The deal, Debenhams in the U.K., the Bally First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions consortium led by Newbridge expected to be completed in the luxury brand in Switzerland, and and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To Capital, the Asian Pacific in- next few months, is subject to J. Crew and Petco in the U.S. Last subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make vestment arm of Texas Pacifi c third-party approvals. year, TPG and private investment our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Group, for $1.02 billion, the com- Newbridge Capital is one of fi rm Warburg Pincus bought luxu- us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. pany said on Monday. Asia’s leading private equity ry retailer Neiman Marcus Group, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- The consortium includes the firms, with over $2 billion of which also operates the Bergdorf SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Myer family, which will retain a capital under management. It Goodman nameplate. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED minority stake in the business, was founded in 1994 by TPG and Coles Myer, which in Febru- according to published reports. Blum Capital Partners. ary acquired the Hedley Hotel The sale of the retail business TPG — founded in 1993 by Group, is the largest retailer in David Bonderman, James Coulter Australia and New Zealand. It and William Price — has offi ces operates more than 2,600 stores In Brief in Fort Worth, Tex., San Francisco under various nameplates in- and London. TPG has extensive cluding Kmart, Target, Coles ● KOHL’S RETIREMENT: Kohl’s Corp.’s Arlene Meier, chief op- experience investing in consum- Express and Offi ceWorks. erating officer since 2000, will retire by the end of this year. er brands and retail fi rms. Past — Vicki M. Young Meier said in a statement that she was pleased to have been part of the retailer’s growth from 66 Midwest stores to 741 stores nationwide. Larry Montgomery, Kohl’s chairman and chief executive officer, commented, “Arlene has played a signif- helsea Button icant role in Kohl’s disciplined expansion strategy and strong C International, Inc. financial position. From her involvement in our IPO in 1992 to USA our most recent announcement of our first share repurchase Tel: (908)259-1400 Fax: (908)259-1519 program, Arlene has been instrumental in the development of Email: [email protected] our capital structure.” The company is searching for a succes- sor. Meier joined the company as vice president and controller Chelsea Button (Far East) Co. in 1989 and has 30 years of experience in the retail industry. Hong Kong Tel: (852)2 402-8889 ● Fax: (852)2 402-8323 WET SEAL APPOINTMENT: The Wet Seal Inc. named Gregory Email: [email protected] S. Gemette as president, Arden B. Merchandise, succeeding Jennifer Pritchard, who left in early March. He reports to Joel Buttons, Trims & Accessories Waller, chief executive offi cer of The Wet Seal, who said, “Greg has a strong vision and merchandising strategy to continue to develop and build the Arden B. business.” Wet Seal operates 400 stores, including 92 Arden B. units. Gemette was with G and G Retail Inc. as senior vice president and chief merchandising offi cer and before that served as executive vice president and chief merchant for the Home Shopping Network. He began his career as a buyer for the former Carter Hawley Hale Stores Inc. in Los Angeles, and later worked for Lane Bryant THE TIGER COMPANIES and American Eagle Outfi tters. Tiger Button Co Inc - New York ● NEW TO THE BOARD: Liz Claiborne Inc. has elected Daniel Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong A. Carp to the company’s board, bringing the number of direc- Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. tors up to 11. Carp’s term will begin at the 2006 annual meeting Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands of stockholders on May 18. Carp retired as chief executive of- Tiger Trimming Inc - New York ficer, and as chairman, of Eastman Kodak on June 1, 2005, and Dec. 31, 2005, respectively. He had held these posts since 2000. Tel:(212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 3 WWD.COM MEMO PAD Neiman Marcus Names Downing Fashion Head HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT: Gawker.com’s By Sharon Edelson store in 1992 and was promoted to director of visual planning reason for being is to poke fun at the for all stores. Downing in 1997 moved into his current posi- overhyped people, places and things of NEW YORK — Ending months of speculation, Neiman Marcus tion, vice president of p.r. He graduated from Seattle Central the media universe, be it Lindsay Lohan, Stores on Monday named Ken Downing senior vice president College and received a degree from the Fashion Institute of Bungalow 8 or Radar magazine. But and fashion director. Technology in apparel design. Downing, who is on vacation, recently, the gossip blog has itself Downing, 43, currently vice president of public relations, could not be reached for comment on Monday. been fl irting with overexposure — at was considered a front-runner for the job, which had been Kaner, whose background was more that of a traditional least in the eyes of its owner, cybermogul held by Joan Kaner for more than 16 years until she retired merchant, started her career as a buyer and worked as a di- Nick Denton. in October, but as the search dragged visional merchandise manager. According to two sources, Denton on, retail observers began to wonder She told WWD at the time of her turned down a request to be interviewed whether he would be chosen. retirement, “I served as not only a by The New Yorker about Gawker some “We actually held a limited search style defi ner each season, picking weeks ago, saying he felt the site and because we really wanted to take a out what we should stand for, but I its editors had been receiving too much little time and explore all different sought out other opportunities and publicity. Although Denton expressed avenues,” said Ann Stordahl, ex- new designers that were emerging. willingness to talk about Lifehacker and ecutive vice president of women’s I had a merchandising background, Valleywag, two of the newer entries in his apparel at the Dallas retailer. “We so I understood the needs of buyers. stable of blogs, the writer, John Cassidy, came back to feeling it was great to I knew what they were up against. I elected to profi le a different Internet hire internally. Our unique culture knew they had to make their bottom company altogether rather than agree to and his understanding of our culture lines and goals.” Denton’s conditions. was an advantage.” Stordahl agreed that the role It might seem odd for a business that “Ken’s deep understanding of requires financial acumen. “Ken depends on advertising revenues to pass our customer, knowledge of our buy- wouldn’t have been promoted to a up the free publicity and cachet a New ing organization and relationships senior offi cer if he didn’t have pretty Yorker profi le could confer. But Denton, within the fashion community make good knowledge of our business and according to a source familiar with his him an excellent choice for this key the fi nancial workings of our busi- thinking, worried Gawker was in danger position,” said Karen Katz, presi- ness,” she said. “Even though he of becoming the face of the “Web 2.0 dent and chief executive offi cer of was in public relations, he was pretty bubble,” inviting backlash by appearing Neiman Marcus Stores. “His energy actively involved with the merchants prominently in practically every trend and commitment to our business are and with fashion presentations on a story about the blogging phenomenon. inspiring to us all.” local basis. There’s not a school for Indeed, while the name of their site Downing will manage the New fashion directors. They come from a may suggest an outsider peering in at York City fashion offi ce of Neiman lot of different avenues.” the party from behind the velvet rope, Marcus, supervising three fashion Downing has traveled to Europe Gawker’s co-editors, Jessica Coen and editors. Unlike his predecessor, for the collections with the Neiman’s Jesse Oxfeld, are increasingly coming to however, he will be based in Dallas team and attends the New York resemble the celebrity editors they love rather than New York. He will report shows. to mock (such as Graydon Carter, whose to Stordahl. “He was very involved with the de- plaid Oscar-night tuxedo pants earned When Kaner was fashion director, signers that came here or are in our him much ridicule). In the past two she wanted to be in the thick of the Ken Downing major markets,” Stordahl said. “He’s months, Coen and Oxfeld have been fashion industry here and believed pretty familiar with most of our major mentioned in Vanity Fair (where they her proximity to Seventh Avenue people. There’s not going to be any- appeared together with Denton and helped cement her relationships with key designers. body that’s going to completely fi ll Joan’s shoes because she had several other Gawker Media bloggers), “There’s advantages and disadvantages to either,” said such a wealth of experience that she amassed over the years.” The New York Times, the Daily News, The Stordahl. “New York is only three hours away from Dallas. I’m During her 38-year career, Kaner became something of a Village Voice and New York magazine, sure Ken will be racking up lots of airline miles. He can be in legend, championing Isaac Mizrahi in his earlier years and which photographed them for its “Blog New York whenever he needs to be. The advantage to being in discovering talents such as Zac Posen and Ralph Rucci. Establishment” cover story, even though, Dallas is that you have a more active part in networking with Identifying emerging designers is still important for per Denton’s instructions, they declined merchants and our stores, and the advertising and marketing Neiman’s, and Downing will play a big roll in bringing them to be interviewed. Maer Roshan, eat your departments.” to the fore. “It still is a big priority for our company to support heart out. — Jeff Bercovici Downing, whose path has taken him through the p.r. and young talent and identify and nurture young talent,” Stordahl visual merchandising offi ces, may represent a new breed of said. “We’re interested in seeing young designers all the way FAN MORRISON: Those crazy all-night fashion director. In addition to spotting trends and covering from the contemporary area to the couture area.” closings at Us Weekly under Bonnie Fuller designer shows, the responsibilities of a fashion director at Stordahl said his personal style was not insignifi cant. “He’s may be a thing of the past with Janice Min some stores include choosing products for catalogues, adver- a collector of contemporary art,” she said. “He has incredible in charge, but new fashion director Sasha tising and windows, and involvement in p.r. taste. His tastes are pretty varied, but he did study fashion and Charnin-Morrison still has a steep learning Downing joined Neiman’s in 1990 in the visual department knows the history of fashion and appreciates the quality of all curve ahead. After all, she’s going from of the Beverly Hills store. He became visual manager of that of our couture designers.” the monthly Allure, where she has the same title, to a weekly. But she insists it actually will be an easier lifestyle. “I’m a mom of twin boys,” she said. “I had to think about them.” The position at Us, she said, will involve much less traveling, Barneys Fetes Boston Flagship giving her more time to spend with her three-and-a-half-year-olds. By Katherine Bowers pany, Jones Apparel Group Inc., The easiest part of leaving? She’s a who took his son to Fenway pop culture and celebrity fanatic. The BOSTON — Barneys New York Park for the fi rst time last sum- hardest part of leaving? Saying goodbye celebrated its Copley Place mer, said Barneys should be a to the group of Liz Tilberis-era Harper’s Boston opening, the luxury home run in Boston. “There was Bazaar editors who came with her to retailer’s fi rst fl agship in 13 a void here,” he said. “There Allure six years ago. “We worked, but years, at a party last Thursday was nothing of this magnitude we had fun. At the end of the day, it’s a that was the talk of Beantown. or scope.” frock. It’s only a bead and a frock.” About 500 guests waited Perfumer Frederick Malle One perk Charnin-Morrison isn’t too with cocktails behind a scrim recalled a brush with Boston concerned about walking away from before the curtain dropped, decades ago. He was supposed is the Condé Nast cafeteria. “I have a trumpets blared and a chil- to go to Harvard, following in confession to make,” she said. “[Allure dren’s choir sang, “I’ve got his father’s footsteps, but opted creative director] Paul Cavaco and I Barneys, who could ask for for New York University in- actually dine at Duke’s down the block.” anything more?” to the tune stead. “I wanted to be near the She starts at Us on April 4, just in time of “I’ve Got Rhythm.” Then fashion industry, photography, for the Us Weekly Style Awards. — Sara James guests were able to explore Studio 54,” he recalled. “My the 45,000-square-foot store. father, though, left his heart in MEA CULPA: The professional relationship “We’ll have everyone pour Cambridge.” between Hedi Slimane and Tom Ford may back out [to the tent] to eat,” Boston mayor Thomas M. have ended badly, but for the time being, said Barneys creative direc- Menino and his wife, Angela; PHOTOS BY MEGHAN JONES PHOTOS BY he’s keeping his opinions of Ford to tor Simon Doonan, who or- Peter Boneparth and Simon Doonan at the opening. Fresh co-founder Lev Glazman, himself. In the Memo Pad item Monday chestrated the event, survey- and Marc Jacobs president on The New Yorker’s profi le of the Dior ing the scene from the sweeping main of the shoe department amid the rubble Robert Duffy also turned out. Homme designer, criticisms of Ford were staircase. “Food and merchandise are of opened boxes and discarded try-ons. Barneys especially wanted to thank incorrectly attributed to Slimane when not necessarily compatible.” Above them, the soul group the O’Jays its loyalists, who have regularly trekked they actually were made by Pierre Bergé, Partygoers drank and shopped, each performed, snaking a conga line for to Manhattan. “This feels like the New who said, “I don’t respect him, not at fueling the other. A quartet of girl- “Love Train” around the second fl oor. York store, which I prefer to all of the all. He is not a designer. He is a friends ensconced themselves, with a Peter Boneparth, president and chief Boston shopping,” twentysomething marketing man.” champagne bottle, in the clubby chairs executive offi cer of Barneys’ parent com- customer Jacqueline Mimno said. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 WWD.COM

Mischa Barton Mountain Mamas in Mayle. London host Farhad Farman Farmaian brought a little bit of Switzerland to Annabel’s last week when he threw a Sixties St. Moritz fete. He even fl ew in Mario, the legendary bartender from The Palace Hotel, who doled out tiny glasses of gluwein to guests. Two Saint Bernard dogs greeted arrivals at the door, there was a moose head in the bar, and the dining room was bedecked with mountain goat antlers and moss-covered candelabra. “Anyone who wants to make a fool of themselves, come on the dance fl oor now,” boomed the Cresta Club’s Clifton Wrottesley after a buffet dinner of Swiss cheeses and meats, veal and spaetzle. Wrottesley led volunteers wearing crash helmets, fur hats and Pucci dresses through the obscure St. Moritz ritual of imitating an exploding fi rework. Guests included Ginevra Elkann, Rena Sindi, Lillian and Damian von Stauffenberg, Mourad Mazouz, Alice Bamford, Joana Schliemann, Cora Sheibani, Eugenie Niarchos, Zoe Jessica Appleyard, Johanna Von Boch, and Louis Bacon. Alba in a “I was going to wear moon boots, but then how do Versace you dance in them?” queried Karen Groos, who opted, coat. instead, to wear fur on her head. “I wear this skiing,” she said, pointing to her enormous hat. Camilla Belle Six thousand miles away in in Derek Lam. Beverly Hills, not even unseasonably cold temperatures could force the stylish crowd to forsake the bare legs, wedge sandals and paper-thin silk Derek Lam and dresses they sported to toast Derek Kate Bosworth Lam and the spring collection he designed for Tod’s. The luxury house and Vogue threw a Thursday afternoon tea at Kelly Wearstler’s abode, drawing fans Crystal Lourd, Kelly Lynch, Colleen Bell and Elizabeth Wiatt. Wearstler chatted up guests Mischa Barton and Camilla Belle, while giving everyone free rein to roam her home, a treasure trove of fi nds from the 1800s to the Eighties. “Wow. I can’t believe people live like this,” marveled China Chow (no stranger to grand homes herself), as she and Amber Valletta peeked into the onyx-walled master bath. Back out in the parlor, Jessica Alba and Joy Bryant were having serious accessories envy, eyeing the leather totes fl oating by on models. “It’s making me want to go change,” sighed Bryant, and in minutes she was draped in one of Lam’s leather blazers. The designer couldn’t have been happier. “What I love about all these beautiful women is that they exude a modern elegance that’s always such an inspiration,” he said as he hid out in Lillian von the kitchen grazing the hors d’oeuvres trays. Karen Ginevra Stauffenberg “It’s the idea of my collection — when you Groos Elkann and Rena Sindi are confi dent, there’s no need to overdo it.”

don’t want to be part of Grammy culture. It’s tricky, because Chrissie on one hand, if good artists got nominated and won, it Hynde would help them. On the other hand, this whole system is working against them. So do you perpetuate it or pull the Hynde Sight plug? I think we should pull the plug on it. Boycott it. NEW YORK — In 1980, Sire Records released the self-titled WWD: Do you see Madonna as being the beginning of the debut by the Pretenders, a band that blended everything end? from punk to reggae and rhythm and blues. Over the next C.H.: I’m not going to talk about that. 25 years, its members changed constantly — twice because of tragic deaths — but the legendary frontwoman, Chrissie WWD: But it seems to be what you’re implying. When you Hynde, remained. A former waitress from Akron, Ohio, she were talking about who could stick her tits out furthest, has a voice as silky as molasses and the ability to write a song who else could you have been referring to? as tough as nails. Today, Warner Bros. is releasing the group’s C.H.: I’m a rock person. I don’t really understand disco. I’m ﬁ ve-CD box set, “Pirate Radio.” not a fashion person. So I don’t want to comment. So let me just say point blank: I f---ing hate all of them. And then WWD: How do you see the current state of music? these other artists who say, “I want to be the biggest band C.H.: I haven’t paid much attention. But it’s always the in the world, and play the biggest stadiums.” Well, you can same. If there’s two guitars, bass and drums, and the right also go f--- yourselves. Hanging out with politicians. Get a spirit, it’s rock ’n’ roll. grip. Get in a club and do what you do and shut it. I don’t want to play for the people who run the government. Why WWD: Yet in Rosanna Arquette’s documentary, “All We Are does it have to be mainstream? Saying,” you say that rock ’n’ roll died when stylists came along. What did you mean by this? WWD: Tell me about your current involvement with PETA? C.H.: Once MTV came in there, it became all about the way Do you still consider yourself an animal rights activist? you looked. It became advertising. If you stuck your tits out C.H.: Yeah, I do. I didn’t go to their last gala, but it’s like furthest, you got heavy rotation. Well, good luck to ’em. But a volunteer army. You live your life everyday that way, it wasn’t rock. and when the time comes for you to go out on the front line, you go. WWD: But as a musician, don’t you feel some sense of responsibility or need to be hearing, to be inspired? WWD: Are there other causes you’re passionate about? C.H.: Not at all. I don’t feel a responsibility to anything. I don’t even really feel C.H.: Not particularly. I’m just trying to implement what I can to be a decent like a musician. human being.

WWD: What do you think of yourself as? WWD: But you got involved with this one. C.H.: I don’t know. Just me. Someone who got lucky. I don’t have to go to work. I’m C.H.: Yes, because I’ve got the celebrity thing and if I’ve got it I might as well use it not waitressing. I can tour if I want. I can make records if I want. But there’s a big for something I enjoy. And what’s better than to f--- up multinational corporations? sacriﬁ ce to being that guy all the time. It means having no private life, no personal The only thing better than that is to play guitar in a rock band. life. I don’t think, “My life is my music.” My music’s a hobby and my life is my life. I — Jacob Bernstein TOD’S PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; ANNABEL’S BY TIM JENKINS; HYNDE BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA TIM JENKINS; HYNDE BY BY SARDELLA; ANNABEL’S DONATO PHOTOS BY TOD’S WWD SOURCING LEADERSHIP FORUM Thank You! March 8, 2006 The Condé Nast Theatre, 4 Times Square, New York We salute our sponsor partners.

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Emanuel Ungaro Gianfranco Ferré

I t ’s A Long Story A dress doesn’t have to be cropped and revealing to be sexy. European designers proved just that with evening looks that showed relatively little skin but still had plenty of allure. WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Gucci Jil Sander

Hermès PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006

WWD Sourcing Leadership Forum

Safeguards have been implemented to limit surging Chinese imports. SHIP PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; PORTRAITS BY JOHN CALABRESE BY JOHN AQUINO; PORTRAITS SHIP PHOTO BY Changes Sweeping Global Manufacturing drive full-price sales. By Evan Clark and Ross Tucker Bob Zane “Do you remember when we used to quote six- or NEW YORK — Sourcing executives and government offi cials even nine-month delivery windows?” Zane asked gathered here last week to address some of the key issues the sourcing executives attending the summit. “Who that will shape the future of manufacturing and supply among you has the courage to do so today?” chain management at the fi rst WWD Sourcing Leadership In addition to pressures from consumers, policy Forum. shifts easing the fl ow of global commerce and the ac- The day-long conference drew more than 100 people and companying rise of China as the world’s workshop featured speakers from apparel giants such as Liz Claiborne have forced the brands to evolve. Inc., Nike Inc. and VF Corp., as well as representatives “Although things are relatively stable and predict- from the U.S. Department of Commerce and U.S. Trade able right now, our world is about to change,” said Representative’s Offi ce. Themes that emerged included: Zane. ● A consolidation of factory resources. Even as they are swept away in this shift, brands do ● Focusing on top-performing suppliers. have some control over how their businesses adapt to ● Development of mutually benefi cial relationships to new market realities. spur growth and protect future business. “Our success is dependent on the identifi cation and ● Improving operations and lowering costs. selection of the vendors who will make up our ultimate ● China’s impact on the global economy. sourcing confi guration,” he said. ● Greater emphasis on corporate social responsibility. To Zane, the future of production for apparel brands looks like the present for footwear. He pointed to shoe Here’s what the speakers said: factories in China that are geographically close to materials suppliers; employ tens of thousands of workers, Bob Zane, senior vice president, Liz Claiborne Inc. including product development specialists, and have Zane stressed during his presentation the importance of transparent pricing so brands know what each step of consolidating apparel production at fewer, larger factories the process costs. that have a bigger stake in the success of Liz Claiborne’s Apparel producers, let loose from a global system of brands. quotas that expired last year, are concentrating their “We have to abandon some of our old habits,” said Zane. manufacturing in China and developing a similar sup- “This is not the time for country-of-the-month sourcing. This plier base, he said. is not the time for factory-of-the-season sourcing and this is Over the next few years, Claiborne expects to nar- not the time for bargain hunting.” row its manufacturing base to 120 factories in 15 or 20 countries, from the 300 facto- Retailers, pressured by increasing competition for a more discerning consumer, ries in 40 countries it now uses. Crucial to operating in this new, leaner world will be have demanded more from their suppliers like Claiborne, which has a portfolio of developing more open, collaborative, profi table connections with those factories. more than 30 brands, including Juicy Couture, Ellen Tracy and Enyce. Stores not only “Manage your vendors and your vendor relations, and good things will follow,” said want well-produced, well-priced fashion, they want to be the only ones carrying in- Zane. dividual styles. They want to bring hot looks onto their selling fl oors that will quickly Developing closer relationships with factories will change life for many on Seventh WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Avenue. Michael McBreen “If fewer factories in fewer countries are to provide more products and more services, it stands to reason that those factories will undertake and execute functions that are now the responsibility of U.S.-based departments,” said Zane. This means people at the factories will take larger roles in many of the basic design aspects, such as color approval or even ﬁ nal sample approval. “We must arrange for the transfer of skills that will enable and facilitate the process,” he said.

Scott Quesenberry, special textile negotiator, Scott Quesenberry Offi ce of the U.S. Trade Representative U.S. trade policy is sprinting down two roads at once and running out of time, Quesenberry told the forum. In addition to working on widespread trade liberalization through the WTO, the Bush administration is negotiating and imple- menting several agreements with individual countries and regions to loosen restrictions on commerce. However, Trade Promotion Authority, which has helped the Bush administration move its agenda ahead — it gives the President the power to negotiate trade deals that Congress is allowed only to approve, but not amend — expires in July 2007. “Frankly, I don’t see TPA being renewed,” said Quesenberry. That political reality has put a tight deadline on the WTO’s Doha Round trade talks, which seek to reduce duties and open up “It’s possible to create greater leverage and greater results by building a strategic markets around the world for industrial partnership as opposed to the traditional buyer-seller relationship where, ‘I’m the goods such as apparel, as well as agricultural buyer. You’re the seller. I’m right, you’re wrong, I get a discount,’” McBreen said. products and services. “If we don’t get something done by [the John V. Windham, expiration of TPA], there’s a real chance we John Windham executive vice president, won’t be able to sign on to Doha,” he said. Calvin Klein women’s better The WTO is scheduled to determine the sportswear, Kellwood Co. general layout of how Doha would reduce du- Kellwood took full ties in the various areas by April 30, a goal control of the license for that has been set several times and missed. Calvin Klein better sports- Though apparel and textiles make up a small wear in September. Since portion of worldwide trade, the debate over then, Windham has helped how to treat the sensitive sector could ripple establish Kellwood’s new- throughout the larger talks. est and most up-to-date “Textiles could make or break it,” supply chain. Quesenberry said of the Doha talks. “We have the ability to Domestic textile fi rms want to address ap- not have any bad habits,” parel and textiles in separate sector talks that said Windham. would keep tariffs higher in the area and, His fi rst task was iden- they say, protect U.S. manufacturing jobs. tifying factories that had a “If we have enough countries that are interested in doing a sectoral, we’ll be happy background in producing to participate,” said Quesenberry. “We can’t say we have a government position on better and bridge lines, a something we don’t have yet.” departure from Kellwood’s A proposal for the talks has yet to be put on the table, but he said that would prob- heavily moderate portfolio. ably happen by the end of next month. Building a supply chain As the global talks unfold, the USTR’s offi ce is working on a number of free trade from the ground has al- agreements, including recently announced negotiations with South Korea and lowed the Kellwood team Malaysia. to focus its cost-control ef- Quesenberry is also working on the implementation of the Central American Free forts on issues outside the Trade Agreement, which has had a rocky start. The deal is intended to eliminate factory. tariffs on trade among the U.S., El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, the “We’ve really focused Dominican Republic and Costa Rica. our suppliers in the areas So far, the U.S. and El Salvador are the only countries to go live with CAFTA. where we were able to That has pulled El Salvador out of the Caribbean Basin Initiative, which let compa- take advantage of raw ma- nies use materials from the region to make apparel and send it to the U.S. duty free. terial availability,” said Accordingly, many goods now coming into the U.S. from El Salvador are subject to du- Windham, adding that ties they hadn’t faced under CBI, and those duties, as of now, will stand until CAFTA the relaunch of the brand is fully implemented by all of the countries. brought average price “We have a solution that we think will work,” said Quesenberry. “Unfortunately, it points down by about 20 doesn’t appear that we have that power under the legislation, which means we have percent. “We develop the fabric with the supplier and the mills co-jointly, and in so to go back and fi x legislation.” doing, we’re able to bring down the cost of our components.” He said making minor changes in the CAFTA legislation would clear up the prob- The new line also allowed Kellwood to get factories involved at the earliest stages lem that has affected millions of dollars worth of goods. of development. “Getting fi ve words past Congress is sometimes tougher than it ought to be, but “We engaged [the factories] from the initial prototype stage,” said Windham. “Our it is something that the administration supports,” he said. “I cannot promise you a design teams have been to Asia twice. They actually sit and sketch there with the timeline.” vendors, with the agents and suppliers, and it’s very benefi cial.” Like other major brand manufacturers, Kellwood is looking to reduce the number Michael McBreen, director, global apparel operations and strategic planning, Nike Inc. of factories with which it works. For the new line, the company has focused on four In its evolution from a global brand to a global company, Nike has made many suppliers. Windham said he’s moving toward an all-technology platform. changes, but McBreen is trying not to lose touch with the personal element. “We look to be paperless,” he said. “That’s a huge savings in terms of time.” “Take away the phones, take away the e-mails, get people sitting face to face and Windham believes that how responsibility for the supply chain is structured can get them working in a face-to-face, collaborative environment,” he said. “The ideal have the greatest impact on performance. environment for me is a round table with about 10 chairs around it so I can bring the “Our supply chain calendar has 115 components,” he said. “I look at nine of whole team together, and when you do that, what you fi nd is that you take months out those.” of the process.” Taking time, as well as cost, out of product development and delivery is always on Robert McKee, fashion industry solutions director, Intentia Americas Inc. McBreen’s mind, in part because he has no choice but to focus on it. Sourcing executives can look to cut costs and assure future stability by gaining a “The consumer today is more diverse, more informed and more sophisticated than thorough understanding of every aspect of a supply chain and focusing on the cus- at any point in history, so we’ve got to be able to adapt,” he said. “The consumer today tomer. wants it all. They want a consistent brand story, they want a consistent materials story, McKee, a 25-year textile veteran, said sourcing executives needed to focus on the but they also want to be unique. Our sourcing strategy has to align around that.” benefi ts of what he dubbed “the intimate supply chain.” That strategy is focused on larger factories with which the brand has closer rela- “The idea behind the concept is to move our organizations to become more custom- tionships than in the past. er-centered and do that through intimate knowledge of the organizations that make “The days of being able to chase sourcing from factory to factory are over and up the supply chain,” said McKee. they’re over for a number of reasons,” he said. “It diminishes our ability to build that It’s a concept that McKee said is driven by providing solutions rather than increas- strategic partnership and build the infrastructure that enables our success, both in ing the amount of processes involved in the chain. terms of speed and cost.” “That’s a big difference,” said McKee. “If it adds time but doesn’t add value, then He called this newly found teamwork between factory and brand “positive lever- it needs to be eliminated.” age.” Continued on page 10 10 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006

WWD Sourcing Leadership Forum Changing Dynamic of Apparel Manufacturing Continued from page 9 Robert McKee McKee also warned that establishing Thomas A. Glaser open relationships would be key for the future, as increased competition will put pressure on resources such as labor and raw materials. “We’re going to have a real tough time ﬁ nding the great resources that we enjoy today,” said McKee. “So, becoming intimately involved with everybody in our supply chain is the key to making sure we have appropriate relationships inside our supply chain to insure deliveries in the future.”

Roger Mayerson, vice president, product development and global sourcing, Casual Male Retail Group Inc. It wasn’t until Mayerson was well into his career that he learned the benefi ts of collaborative relationships. “I spent the fi rst half of my career being dictated to by retailers. I spent the second half of my career dictat- ing to vendors how to do their job,” said Mayerson, who has spent 30 years working in sourcing and product development for Kohl’s, Target, Marshall Field’s and Mervyns. “Eventually, I fi gured out there was a better place, and the place was called collaboration.” Mayerson doesn’t mind divulging his source for developing successful collaborations — a book on training dogs, which was given to him as a gift from a previous manager. “I opened up the book and the fi rst chapter said, ‘Get a good dog,’” said Mayerson. Roger Mayerson “What ‘Get a good dog’ trans- lates to in our world is, you have to have a vendor who responds to your needs and expectations. You don’t get a poodle to hunt birds.” “They stole share from a lot of different people around the world,” said Glaser. Mayerson said companies “Actually, last year was a very good year for manufacturing in the U.S. It went up 4.5 should establish partnerships percent. Overall economic growth in the U.S. was 3.5 percent.” with their best-performing Glaser did concede that manufacturing employment has declined. vendors. The goal is collab- China’s dominance as a global manufacturer is another concept Glaser believes orative development, which has been overblown. “China must be the world’s workshop, right?” asked Glaser. “I prevents the same problems took a look at that and, actually, it’s not. The European Union is the largest exporter. occurring year after year. Germany is actually the largest [exporting] country.” “You have to be clear China’s rapidly increasing share of global manufacturing has yet to translate into about your expectations,” sizable gains for the Chinese economy. Glaser noted that China is faced with high un- said Mayerson. “If you want a employment rates, especially in rural areas far from the country’s coastal provinces, product delivered in 12 weeks, where most factories are located. Glaser said China is starting to encourage factories you need to make sure that up to build further west in an effort to use the untapped labor pool. front in your negotiations you “China is actually quite poor,” said Glaser, pointing to China’s $1,400 per capita say 12 weeks.” income. “I think there’s only one country in this hemisphere, Haiti, that has a per Mayerson also recommend- capita income lower than that.” ed providing vendors with The U.S. holds the upper hand when it comes to trade, and China relies heavily a plan that conveys growth on the U.S. expectations. “If we can give “We’re probably going to win in a trade war,” said Glaser, noting that 11 percent of them a three- to fi ve-year road China’s economy is interdependent with U.S. trade. map, fi rst, they know they’re The concentration of sourcing activities in China isn’t a result of pricing advan- going to be here, and second, tages, either, said Glaser. Instead, China has the advantage of being able to provide a they can build their own plans vertical supply chain and the benefi t of economies of scale. around where you’re going,” “They have responsive and well-managed factories,” he said. “They have political said Mayerson. and economic stability.” One of the greatest hurdles But this idea, too, has been overblown. “From a compliance perspective, China is facing sourcing executives is complex,” said Glaser. “There’s a tremendous amount of overtime. As we all know, we understanding the problems have to work very carefully with our factories there.” their vendors face and convey- ing expectations to workers Martin Trust, president, Brandot International who are separated by thou- The best opportunities for success come when buyers and sellers have equal sands of miles. amounts of skin in the game, Trust said. “It comes from true part- Trust has been establishing joint-venture production facilities in India, Sri Lanka nerships. This is what I think the industry, more than anything, has lost over these and the U.S. since 1970, when he founded Mast Industries Inc. The company eventu- last years,” said Mayerson. “Without having the person doing the work understanding ally became one of the world’s largest apparel producers, with sales of $1.5 billion, those expectations, how can you expect them to meet those expectations?” before it merged with the Limited Stores Inc. in 1978. After retiring from the Limited Rewarding vendors is also key, he said, adding, “There are a lot of ways of rec- in 2003, Trust founded Brandot International, which holds an equity interest in 18 ognizing great development, but I always thought the best way…is [to] give them textile and apparel companies. more orders.” Trust sees too many pitfalls in the traditional relationship between buyer and seller that stand in the way of product development. Thomas A. Glaser, vice president, global sourcing, and managing director, VF Asia Ltd. “It’s typically a relationship that is based on narrow and opportunistic consider- Glaser believes there’s been more than a little overhype when it comes to the rise ations,” said Trust. “It’s primarily evaluated on strict fi nancial terms. Price is general- of China and its impact on the global economy. ly the paramount issue and it neglects, for the most part, the organizational, cultural, Glaser, who joined VF in 2001 and has more than 25 years of experience in the ap- political and human aspects of any relationship.” parel industry, sought to alter what he views as the misconceptions regarding China’s The result, said Trust, is a relationship that is confrontational rather than col- manufacturing dominance and economic prosperity. laborative and devoid of an entrepreneurial spirt that Trust believes spurs brand Like many sourcing executives, Glaser questioned the need for quotas or safe- building. guards on Chinese goods, comparing them to damming a river. That metaphorical Finding the right partner is a matter that Trust equates to marriage, complete with dam broke with the removal of quotas at the beginning last year and soon was patched introduction, courtship and engagement periods. Typically, Trust said his company with safeguards, said Glaser. During that free-fl ow period, there was little doubt works with a vendor for two to three years before entering into a joint venture. It’s China’s export levels surged. time spent discovering compatibility and searching for shared values. “We know that China really did roar,” said Glaser, “and if you look at the market “If you’re expecting quick returns, you’re going to be disappointed,” warned Trust. share increases, they are pretty amazing.” “Typically, we lose money the fi rst, second and sometimes even he third year in build- However, Glaser noted that, contrary to popular belief, those gains did not take the ing up a joint venture.” wind out of the sails of American manufacturing. One of the greatest benefi ts of joint ventures, Trust has found, is that participants WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 11 WWD.COM

Martin Trust Jim Leonard

have been more willing to take risks. “People were willing to take risks for opportu- tions were intended to give U.S. producers time to prepare for competition from China. nity,” he said. “When we started taking the safeguard action, not only were the imports disrup- Trust admits that opting not to take a majority stake in a venture meets with skep- tive, the safeguard mechanisms themselves were disruptive because nobody knew — I ticism and resistance from those coming from a corporate fi nancial background. had to be the guy who signed the paper — nobody knew when Jim Leonard was going “My feeling was, I’m never going to control a factory in Sri Lanka or Indonesia or to sign a piece of paper reimposing a quota on product X with China,” Leonard said. China anyway,” said Trust. “I’m in Andover, Mass., and in what way am I really going Though disruptive, the safeguards brought China to the bargaining table and the to control these guys from doing bad things?” two countries reached an import agreement that puts predictable quotas on 34 types Having equal stakes in a venture does not assure that all things will work out of goods, including cotton trousers, sweaters and bras. equally, however. “The importing community, most of you folks, would prefer not to have these quo- “I would accept the fact that every event in the life of a partner won’t be fair to tas; I understand that,” said Leonard, who maintained: “We created a certain amount everyone,” Trust said. “It’s impossible to run a partnership for any length of time and of certainty with this agreement.” feel that every year everybody’s going to get equally treated.” However, the pact, which runs through the end of 2008, leaves the door open for additional safeguards on goods not covered under the deal. The U.S. agreed to use Ken Mizera, vice president, “restraint” in applying them, but hasn’t specifi ed exactly what that means. Ken Mizera TradeCard Inc. Importers have argued that restraints on China increase their prices and hurt their Providing all points of a supply shoppers. chain with access to real-time infor- “The U.S. consumer is probably impacted by this,” said Leonard during the ques- mation is key to eliminating excess tion-and-answer session. “We’re certainly not doing it for or against the U.S. consum- costs, Mizera said. er. We listen to inputs from all sides of the issue.” Real-time information relies on companies moving away from paper- Ted Sattler, executive vice president, foreign operations, Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. based methods of doing business. In addition to keeping an eye on the shifting sourcing scene, the fashion industry Paper, said Mizera, slows things is focusing on social issues, Sattler said. down and obscures any view of how a Sattler, who opened and closed his presentation at the summit by playing Bob supply chain is truly operating. Dylan’s, “The Times They Are A-Changin’,” said the industry over the next four or fi ve “Companies don’t know the sta- years would see a “signifi cant increase in corporate social compliance reporting.” tus of transactions,” said Mizera. He pointed to Nike as a leader in the area. “What they are doing today, relative to “There’s a complete lack of visibility total transparency in multinational corporate supplier base, is what many of us will because paper is moving back and be doing in the next three to four years,” said Sattler. forth. When you don’t have visibility, The industry, he said, can fi nancial and procurement execu- also expect growth in inves- tives can not make fully informed tors interested in socially re- Ted Sattler decisions.” sponsible companies, as well Mizera noted that the pace of busi- as antisweatshop legislation ness has only increased, making vis- and environmentally friendly ibility and flexibility increasingly initiatives worldwide. important. According to Sattler, this “Many of you are brand owners,” will help create “increasing said Mizera. “You have customer de- pressures and increasing mands, your retailers are asking you desires for companies like for quick responses. They’re giving ours to proactively utilize you smaller orders and asking for sourcing practices that con- more shipments. They’re asking you tribute positive results to for greater collaboration.” the less-developed countries Mizera recommends companies adopt a common technology platform that provides in the world.” the visibility necessary to make adjustments and respond to consumer demands. Social issues and good “If you can increase the visibility and access to real-time information, you make business are not mutually a greater proportion of your supply chain execution decisions opportunistic versus exclusive terms, he said. reactive,” he said. “The obvious reason for compliance, the business Jim Leonard, deputy assistant secretary, textiles and apparel, reason for compliance, is U.S. Department of Commerce to protect your brand,” said Bringing apparel made in China into the U.S. this year has been a predictable Sattler. “In many ways, it’s a affair, especially when compared with the chaos importers were dealing with a marketing opportunity.” year ago. Since labor often makes Just as global trade in apparel and textiles began to open up last year with the up a small portion of total phaseout of a worldwide system of quotas, importing from China became a dicey af- costs, Sattler said compa- fair as the Bush administration began imposing temporary and unpredictable safe- nies can afford to treat their guard quotas on goods from the country. workers right and benefit The man at the center of the safeguard storm was Leonard, who is also chairman from it. of the Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agreements. “Workforce productivity “In 2003 and 2004, we had spent a lot of time with the Chinese, trying to get them and better quality yield will to sit down and talk about some mechanism for them to do a better job of control- offset the higher labor costs,” ling their exports over the next several years,” said Leonard. “We ended up not he said. “Where you can im- getting anywhere.” prove your costs is on the ef- China agreed to safeguards as a condition of its 2001 entry into the WTO. The restric- fi ciency of the factory.” 12 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006

Ready-to-Wear Report Forecasting the Young Designer Stars Continued from page one a Posen gown to the Academy around 7th on Sixth last month, Awards earlier this month. 16 were fi rst-timers and most “Another perfect example is of them were young. That’s a Rodarte. There you have two far cry from the event’s early sisters starting out after college years in the mid-Nineties, when and they just put together the 60 was the overall tally and all most exquisite clothes down the were proven, to some degree. runway — intricate, delicate “I think American design is dresses with such a couturier’s on fi re right now,” said Howard hand,” Gold said. Socol, chairman and chief execu- “Some very young people tive offi cer of Barneys New York. have remarkable talent. The “I am so excited that there is so challenge is to get aligned with much energy in American fash- people who will help them to ion, and to think about Behnaz manage their business, and Sarafpour, Proenza Schouler, handle production, marketing Zac Posen and Trovata. That and all those other things. When started when Barneys found Mr. you get very young and talented Armani. It’s nice to see this is designers and link them up with happening again.” the right counterpart, they can Not so long ago, fashion in- achieve success early on.” siders were fretting about who Gold said most young designers would succeed Ralph Lauren, are self-motivated. “Who’s pushing Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Bill them? They’re pursuing a dream, Blass, Carolina Herrera and so they’re pushing themselves.” Oscar de la Renta. But now there Bloomingdale’s chairman and is a whole cast of young design- ceo, Michael Gould, wonders ers boosting the energy level of from time to time “how people American fashion, Socol said. so new get so much publicity.” Most of the young guns still have But with or without pub- to build signifi cant businesses; licity, the reality is that there the majority of them have sales aren’t many collections that sell of less than $10 million a year, well “right out of the box,” and Sam Shipley, Josia according to industry estimates. once that happens, “people are Lamberto-Egan, Jeff Posen has managed to step soured” on the label, he said. Halmos and John Jack McCollough and Lazaro things up to the next stage, ac- Mentoring is key to a designer’s Whitledge of Trovata. Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. cording to Jim Gold, president success, Gould said. “What bet- GEORGE CHINSEE BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; PROENZA, SARAFPOUR TYLER BOYE; CHAI BY PHOTO BY TROVATA and ceo of Bergdorf Goodman. ter mentor was there than Kal ball can get called up from the “The visionary designer is the Bucciarelli, president and ceo “I have complete confidence Ruttenstein?” he asked, refer- AA league and his fi rst game one who has restraint and knows of Henri Bendel. that he will be with us for many ring to the store’s late senior vice can be in Yankee Stadium,” he when they can do something and “In an industry that thrives years. He is the best example of president of fashion direction. said. “I don’t think there are when they can’t,” she added. on constant newness, it’s not at a young designer who has gotten But Gould is reluctant to say any simple answers. I marvel at There’s also something to all surprising that each season through those incredibly chal- one route is better than another. someone who can concentrate be said for giving shoppers the the fashion media eagerly em- lenging early years. His cloth- “Too much, too soon is a lot of on their own and has an entre- chance to discover labels on their braces a handful of new names ing has substance and staying responsibility. But it happens in preneurial spirit to be an inde- own, Gilhart said. Thakoon and touted as ‘The Next Big Thing.’ power.” Felicity Huffman wore a lot of fi elds. A pitcher in base- pendent designer. But there are Richard Chai are two names that I think we all wish we could dis- also people who mentored with Barneys customers have taken to cover that kind of talent every Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and without the media blitz that some six months….And, naturally, Donna Karan who went on to other designers have enjoyed. She very young designers often be-

® have successful businesses.” also noted that, as a retailer, one come media darlings based as Today’s crop of young design- has to wonder about any hype: much on our fascination with ers understands — more than “How much of it is really real and their youth as on the substance any of its predecessors — that how much is manufactured?” of their soon-to-be-seen collec- WATT CINQUE publicity is a necessity, and edi- Gilhart isn’t opposed to pub- tions. Once they hit the runway, torial coverage eases the need licity, as long as basking in the sometimes their talent is unde- for advertising, an expense limelight doesn’t distract design- niable, and sometimes it’s not so many cannot afford. Whether the ers too much from their work. clear. Often, it’s truly too soon to media selects reader-friendly “They need to concentrate on tell. Regardless of talent, with- designers or vice versa is up for making great clothes. The whole out a few seasons under their debate. But, either way, the life press and media is overwhelm- belt to hone their craft, young of an aspiring designer is allur- ing for young designers. Honestly, designers may ﬁ nd themselves ing, as evidenced by the success they shouldn’t have to spend so at a disadvantage once the ini- of “Project Runway” and design- much time out there promot- tial buzz dies down and the

tel. 1.212.921.0123 1.212.944.4700 - fax er profi les in a variety of maga- ing themselves. They need to be media moves on.” zines, including nonfashion ones. very selective in what they’re Bucciarelli prefers to think of Regardless of their tax brackets, doing and how they’re promoting emerging designers Phillip Lim, consumers have gotten hip to a themselves. Sometimes the hype Nathan Jenden and Richard host of up-and-comers, thanks to is greater than the collection is Chai as “youthful.” Having spent weekly tabloids that mercilessly in content.” years developing their talents rate and analyze celebrities’ out- Too often there is the ten- working for established brands fi ts and favorite designers. dency to push them in front of such as Development, Diane von But editorial coverage isn’t the cameras when they should Furstenberg and Tse, respective- always a sure sign of a healthy be back working on their collec- ly, they have produced signature business, according to Barneys tions, she said. collections that are worth watch- fashion director Julie Gilhart. Robert Burke, founder of ing, he said. Show-room Attila: 552,York,Avenue, NY 10018 Seventh 2nd Floor - New “Isaac Mizrahi had so much Robert Burke Consultants, said Lining up the right retail fame and so much talent, and media coverage can be a dou- partner “to provide ongoing as- then we opened up the paper ble-edged sword, but the inter- sistance and encouragement is one day to learn he doesn’t est has helped cultivate a new necessary to help evolve a fl edg- have a business anymore,” she troupe. “The result is, there ling collection into a viable busi- said. “And in my most amazing are more young designers in ness,” Bucciarelli said. “Henri dreams, I never would have New York than ever before,” he Bendel has always supported thought that Helmut Lang would said. “For so many years, there emerging talent in our ongoing leave Helmut Lang.” weren’t many young designers search for the new and the next. Too often, young designers on the scene.” Young designers and debut col- are too eager to stage runway Bergdorf Goodman intro- lections bring tremendous en- shows. There are “totally” too duced fi ve new designers last ergy to our store,” he said. many of them having shows, year — a record for the luxury In fact, there’s so much inter- Gilhart said. “There’s a rush for retailer, said Burke, who left the est in young talent these days that people to go too fast. That’s just store last year to set up his con- a new format might be needed to a refl ection of the fashion busi- sultancy. show the collections, said Stan ness. Fashion is all about speed- But the fashion media’s will- Herman, president of the Council ing up, but so is everything else ingness to spotlight rising stars of Fashion Designers of America. [in society]. is rudimentary, according to Ed He suggested staging still life pre- WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 13 WWD.COM Outerwear Report sentations in shared gallery spac- other areas. I remember when with young designers is, they de- es, since buyers just won’t have Ralph started, the parts and sign the clothes, but they can’t the time to cover all the shows. pieces were layered on slowly. produce them,” he said. All Chilled Out “So many who are now show- Some of these young designers The CFDA/Vogue Fashion LJUBLJANA, Slovenia — Stylish ing believe they have to sell a have limited fabrics and tech- Fund offers the type of mentoring Slovenians brace for the winter full collection — suits to gowns. niques. Sometimes it makes that can help a talented designer chill by layering up with an Who is going to buy all those their collections lugubrious in- move on, he added. Trovata’s unexpected mix of lightweight evening clothes?” Herman stead of jaunty.” design team of John Whitledge, pieces. In Ljubilana, Slovenia’s asked. “It used to be, once you Herman also voiced other Sam Shipley, Josia Lamberto- capital, many women fi nish had the talent, you moved into concerns. “A lot of the problem Egan and Jeff Halmos edged out off their looks with colorful Derek Lam and Thom Browne quilted jackets and fur-trimmed for the second $200,000 prize, anoraks. Some bundle up with Behnaz Richard which was awarded last year. metallic scarves, knit striped Sarafpour Chai Whether or not designers headbands, pastel hoodies and who have started their own busi- bright-colored mittens for extra nesses in the past three to fi ve shots of color and warmth. At years will be around for the long least one young resident is haul is a constant topic of con- already envisioning the months versation with CFDA members, when the nearby snowcapped Herman said. He thinks Proenza mountains will be green again. Schouler, Derek Lam, Richard She dealt with a frigid January Chai and Cloak are contenders. night in a hot pink visor planted Referring to young designers sideways on her head. in general, he said: “The stores have to be conscious of building a business, just like they did years ago. They have to understand there needs to be space for them. They don’t have to give them a lot of doors, but have to give them exposure.” Too few stores with too much buying power is further compli- cating the equation, he said. On top of that, individual buyers have more ground to cover. “The same buyer from Saks looks at Oscar de la Renta and Derek Lam. They have so much open- to-buy,” he said. “Unfortunately, too many people who are show- ing are not getting the people there they need. It’s the old game of, if one person makes it through, everyone else wants to try to wiggle through the hole.

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602649_POL06003_WWD_Wish.indd 1 3/1/06 4:43:46 PM 14 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 WWD.COM In Transit Port Security Remains in Spotlight

By Kristi Ellis The Homeland Security ports because practically every terminal operation offi ce at Port Newark. is foreign-owned.” WASHINGTON — The aborted Dubai Ports World Officials from the Department of Homeland deal triggered a national debate and generated Security estimated that about 75 percent of all U.S. broader port security initiatives that are likely to terminals are operated by foreign companies. preoccupy Capitol Hill. Retailers are fretting about several bills, such as Lawmakers have introduced about a dozen one introduced by Rep. Duncan Hunter (R, Calif.), port-related bills in reaction to the public and chairman of the House Armed Services Committee, Congressional uproar over the deal, and the issue which would require all containers entering U.S. of foreign ownership of key U.S. assets isn’t expect- ports to be inspected and also would block any ed to go away soon, particularly in an election year. foreign-owned company from owning or operating That leaves retailers and wholesalers that import- “critical infrastructure” such as seaports. ed $89.2 billion in apparel and textiles to the U.S. “Upwards of 16 million containers enter U.S. ports last year concerned about the potential for more every year and I think the impact of inspecting every Congressional intervention in global commerce. container would be devastating to the U.S. economy,” Domestic textile executives, however, view the said Jonathan Gold, vice president of global sup- potential fallout as an opportunity for U.S. Customs ply chain policy at the mass-market Retail Industry & Border Protection to receive more funding to in- Leaders Association. “I don’t think it would be realis- crease inspections of containers for illegally trans- CHIP EAST/REUTERS/CORBIS PHOTO BY tic. You don’t need to inspect everything, but you do shipped goods. want to focus on ‘high-risk’ containers.” Amid intense bipartisan political pressure, Dubai Ports World, which sought to Textile executives are hoping the issue will lead to more funding for Customs, operate terminals in six major U.S. ports, abandoned its efforts Thursday and said it which also inspects containers for illegal transshipments. would transfer those properties to an American-owned company. Dubai Ports World is “The port story has really cast a spotlight on the fact that the enforcement capa- based in and owned by the United Arab Emirates, which President Bush said was an bilities of Customs are seriously under-funded,’’ said Cass Johnson, president of the ally in the war on terrorism, but which critics noted had backed the Taliban regime in National Council of Textile Organizations. “Right now, the chances of getting caught Afghanistan and had an uneven diplomatic record. [with illegal shipments] is too low and that is an invitation to increased illegal activity.” The controversy spotlighted the vulnerability of ports to terrorist attacks. House GOP leaders said Friday they will propose legislation that would reform the “A lot of us watching this thought [Dubai Port World’s acceptance of a new 45-day process for investigating national security implications of foreign acquisition of such review] meant it was over, but it wasn’t and it continues on,” said Robin Lanier, ex- U.S. assets. Several lawmakers have introduced bills that would give Congress the ecutive director of the Waterfront Coalition, a group that monitors cargo concerns for fi nal say in a foreign acquisition of U.S. ports and other infrastructure. such retail members as Target, J.C. Penney and the Limited. Action on port-related legislation is likely to come in the House as early as this Erik Autor, vice president and international trade counsel at the National Retail week. Lawmakers are expected to vote on a $91 billion emergency spending bill for Federation, noted that some 40 percent of the $22.4 billion in apparel and textile imports the war in Iraq and Hurricane Katrina recovery efforts, which also contains a provi- from China fl ows through the Port of Los Angeles-Long Beach, although many companies sion to block Dubai Ports World from buying U.S. terminal operations from U.K.-based have been shifting shipments from Asia to the ports of Oakland and Seattle-Tacoma to Peninsular & Oriental Steamship Navigation Co. avoid congestion in Southern California. In addition, a big portion of the sector’s imports The outlook in the Senate is far less certain. Sen. Majority Leader Bill Frist (R, from Latin America is shipped to the ports of New York and New Jersey, and Miami. Tenn.) was forced to pull a lobbying reform bill from the Senate fl oor last week after “I don’t know that we are through the woods yet on this thing,” Autor said. “More an amendment was introduced by Sen. Charles Schumer (D, N.Y.) to quash the Dubai specifi cally, it raises the possibility that Congress may try to pursue ill-considered legis- ports deal. Schumer has said he needs more information on Dubai Port World’s plan to lation prohibiting foreign operation of port terminals, which would create chaos at the transfer operations to a “U.S. entity.’’

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© Crowley Maritime Corporation, 2006 CROWLEY is a registered trademark of Crowley Maritime Corporation Speed to Market is a service mark of Crowley Maritime Corporation WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 15 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Colombiatex Scores $33M, Enhances Image Singapore Gives $6.7M to Sector By Toby Muse rics, machinery, zippers and mannequins. She’s been By Betsy Lowther purchasing products from China for 14 years. MEDELLIN, Colombia — Colombia’s annual textile “When I buy something from China, there’s SINGAPORE — As China continues to dominate the post-quota fair has become one of Latin America’s most impor- often some fl aw and I have to go back and tell them industry, Asia’s other textile players are working to bolster their tant, drawing buyers and vendors from around the what fl aws there are and make sure it gets correct- presence and stay competitive. world to sell a range of goods from raw yarn and fi n- ed,’’ she said. “From what I’ve seen, there is much The latest is Singapore, which last month announced a $6.7 mil- ished apparel to machinery and mannequins. better quality in the Colombian product.’’ lion government initiative to boost the city-state’s textile and apparel The Colombiatex fair included models parading Martha Calad, who oversees fashion for manufacturing presence in the region. The government grant, ear- the latest offerings from Brazilian and Colombian Inexmoda, said, “People increasingly want elabo- marked for two new programs, is expected to help Singapore’s manu- designers as spectators watched with caipirinha rate, distinctive clothes, something that will set them facturers generate an additional $250 million in revenue by 2009. cocktails in hand. apart from other people.’’ Singapore’s textile and apparel manufacturers have annual With more than 6,000 exhibitors and visitors, Suppliers said denim was selling well and there sales of about $2.7 billion—though only about $600 million comes Colombiatex, which ran Jan. 24-26, is a key tool in was growing demand for corduroy. Colombian design- from goods actually made in the country. The bulk of the revenue boosting the country’s textile and apparel industry. ers showed off their own native-inspired designs. comes from textiles produced in Singaporean-owned factories in The fair produced more than $33 million in busi- “Here we’re using the pre-Colombian patterns,’’ nearby Asian countries such as China, Vietnam, Sri Lanka and ness. The power of the dollar was apparent, with said Luz Elena Ramirez, designer for Textiles Indonesia, where labor and other expenses are much cheaper. almost two-thirds of business going to the U.S. Romanos, pointing to a bag decorated with bright The main aim of the latest government grant is to help But it was China and that nation’s rapid ascent to colors and stripes of indigenous tribes. Singaporean companies stay ahead of their local competitors the top of the apparel and textile manufacturing lad- However, some did worry that the designs may in the less-expensive countries, said Patrick Lee, chairman of der that preoccupied many in attendance. Colombian not fi nd a natural home in markets such as Europe. Singapore-based apparel manufacturer Sing Lun Holdings Ltd. manufacturers said in order to survive competition The fair also served another less-explicit pur- and the honorary president of the country’s Textile and Fashion from China, they need to play to their strengths: fash- pose: to try to change Colombia’s image. Colombians Federation, or TAFF, which will oversee the grant. ion, proximity to the U.S. and reliable service. call it their “mala fama” or “bad fame.” The gov- “Singapore’s main advantage is that it is a natural hub for “We know that price can be an issue, but what we ernment and business leaders are well aware that the whole region,” said Lee. “Our companies are able to pro- produce in Colombia is generally high-quality fab- much of the world sees Colombia as the world’s co- vide the benefi ts of an established business environment while rics and fashionable pieces that other suppliers can’t caine center, home to a long-running civil war and still taking advantage of the low-cost sourcing options in the match,’’ said Roque Ospina, director of Colombia’s with one of the world’s highest murder rates. area. That is our strength, and we want to maintain it.” Institute of Export and Fashion or Inexmoda. Still, the country has undergone major changes The new grant is focused on two main initiatives. The fi rst International buyers, many visiting Colombia for in the past four years with the election of presi- is the establishment of a Productivity and Design Development the fi rst time, remarked on the quality of Colombian dent Alvaro Uribe, who has taken a hard line Center, a three-year program that will hire experienced engi- apparel and fabric. Among them was Bill Wright, against the insurgents and cocaine cartels. With neers and designers from leading textile and fashion companies who was looking for new suppliers for British Home improved security, the government wants to attract in the U.S. and Europe, as well as from within Singapore, to act Stores, the second-largest High Street retailer. foreign investment in Latin America’s fi fth-largest as consultants for the industry and to assist manufacturers in “Colombians are making things that we can economy and third-largest population. In the fi rst streamlining production processes and improving technology. sell, not selling us things they can make,’’ he said. two years of Uribe’s regime, foreign investment The project is expected to begin in early April. Other buyers said they were seeing a great differ- increased by 50 percent to $3.13 billion. The second initiative focuses on growing Singapore’s annual ence in the quality of the fabric and fi nished goods “Colombia has this terrible reputation,’’ said fashion week, held in October. The funds will help expand the compared with what they receive from China. Michael Johnson, a buyer for British label Paul week’s focus beyond local design and will provide a platform Marcia Nicely, owner of Designs by Marc Ltd., a Smith. “People think it’s all drug traffi ckers and for textiles and apparel manufacturing as well. TAFF’s main Jamaican company that specializes in selling work killers, but since I’ve been here, I’ve seen only a hope is to entice more buyers to the event. outfi ts, said she came to the fair looking to buy fab- friendly and helpful people.”

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The Americana’s spring catalogue, currently being distributed to 270,000 households, also has the Distinctly Modern tag line, and pays homage to the Fifties but with a contemporary edge and current fashion. It was photographed by Laspata PHOTO BY DAVID SUNDBERG/ESTOS DAVID PHOTO BY DeCaro on the grounds of two famous Palm Springs homes, the Edgar J. Kaufman house built in 1947 and the Robert Kenaston home built in 1957. The 1,200-square-foot pop-up store, in a space formerly housing Ellen Tracy and Dana Buchman shops, opens Thursday and will operate through By Sharon Edelson April 30. On Wednesday night, the birthday cel- ebration will kick off with a cocktail party at the NEW YORK — Patricia Field is moving her long-running party pop-up store hosted by Americana Manhasset with from West Broadway in SoHo to the Bowery on the Lower East Vanity Fair. To bring the spirit of the Fifties to Side. life, there will be models wearing Schlumberger The doyenne of club culture and nocturnal style will un- jewelry designed for Tiffany, windows with pho- veil next month a 4,000-square-foot, two-level boutique at 302 tos from the spring catalogue and waiters clad in Bowery. She said she envisions a lounge and hair salon on the Fifties attire. lower level and a mix of fashion and accessories by young edgy Through the year, Americana’s special events, designers, as well as her own label, on the main level. openings and charity fund-raisers will tie into the Field may be best known as the “Sex and the City” costume milestone, including an Oscar de la Renta fashion designer who defi ned the haute style of Sarah Jessica Parker’s show in September to support the North Shore Long character Carrie Bradshaw. But long before she was putting Island Jewish Hospital, a Pan-Asian restaurant open- Parker into Oscar de la Renta gowns and Manolo Blahnik shoes, ing in August run by George and Gillis Poll, and the Field was stocking her original store, which opened on East center’s Champions of Charity event in December Eighth Street in 1966, with punk fashion, cheeky accessories benefi ting more than 80 nonprofi t organizations. and racy undergarments. “It isn’t about massive celebrations,” explained From the Americana Manhasset’s spring catalogue, a A second store, Hotel Venus, bowed in the Nineties. When Frank Castagna, principal of Castagna Realty Co. Michael Kors look in a Fifties setting. the Eighth Street location closed in 2002, the SoHo store was and owner of Americana Manhasset. “It’s about rec- renamed Patricia Field. ognizing we have been a factor in this community vard in Manhasset, is unique on the suburban retail Now Field is ready for less commercial environs. “I like the for 50 years. It’s really about community relations.” landscape, considering its high concentration of chic Bowery because it’s developing,” said Field, who also lives in “We are staging a series of festivities throughout shops, urbane architecture, meticulous landscaping the neighborhood. “I like the big open streets of the Bowery the year to bring people on site, rather than having and focused designer appeal. About three years ago, and Houston Street. My old, steady customers are happy. They one big blowout that may or may not impact our it orchestrated its biggest expansion ever, which think I belong on the East Side like in the old days. They want customers,” added Diedre Costa Major, senior vice involved razing a Waldbaum’s, extending its clas- to see me get out of SoHo.” president and creative director of the Americana sic limestone facades and adding a designer wing, Existing resources will move to the Bowery store, although Manhasset. bringing the total space to 220,000 square feet. Field will create special pieces for it, as well. In addition to The shopping center, located on Northern Boule- — David Moin Heatherette, Hysteric Glamour and White Trash Charms, there will be oddities such as thigh-high angora socks, rhinestone brass knuckles, fi ngerless biker gloves, rhinestone cigarette holders The large vinyl screen at and what she politely calls bedroom accessories: polkadot tri- Marc by Marc Jacobs and the angle cupcake bras and days of the week thong panties. She also $20 Blondie T-Shirt benefi ts plans to feature small designers who make individual pieces with Riverkeeper, Debbie Harry’s Fashion Scoop no production. “There seems to be a big groundswell,” she said. charity of choice. “Everybody wants their clothes to be in the store.” BLONDIE SNAPSHOT: Marc Jacobs and On the Bowery, Patricia Field will have “a different kind of Debbie Harry have been close friends atmosphere,” she said. “We’ll have food and drink. It’s going to for close to two decades — so close, be another rhythm, another vibe.” in fact, that last Thursday, Jacobs fl ew Field plans to fi ll the store with a mismatched collection of in from Paris to congratulate Blondie on furniture she inherited, including an animal-print sofa and ot- its induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of tomans and Parsons tables salvaged from the Roberto Cavalli Fame and to co-host a party with political activist showroom. “They said they were moving and had some stuff Jonathan Lewis in the group’s honor. “I have they were going to get rid of,” said Field, adding, “they called known Blondie ever since they started to make because whenever I’m there I go crazy over the furniture.” music,” Jacobs said. “I met Debbie in my late She got 10-foot columns from the set of “The Devil Wears teens or early twenties. We became friends and I Prada,” for which she served as costume designer. have worshipped her and her music since.” Field’s last project, a TV pilot for ABC called “Ugly Betty,” Jacobs has dedicated the windows of the reminded her that life is all about taking risks. The pilot, which Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique on Bleecker is based on a popular Latino soap opera, is about a young Street to the music icon. Since late last week, woman who lives in Queens and gets a job at a fashion maga- they feature giant vinyl screens, one of which has an image of zine, but she’s not a fashion person. Harry and the other, a congratulatory note on the induction. The “It’s good to move and change,” Field said. “It’s good to grow. boutique is also selling $20 Blondie T-shirts, with proceeds going If you sit in one place forever you feel safe and secure, but life to Riverkeeper, Harry’s organization of choice, which keeps an eye gets fl at. You need new inspirations and new excitement.” on the Hudson River’s ecosystem and fi ghts its polluters. MARC JACOBS STORE PHOTO BY JOSHUA TAWNEY JOSHUA JACOBS STORE PHOTO BY MARC

sitions in the women’s specialty market ferings to this rapidly growing [Baby that have a focus on the direct chan- Boomer] demographic. Furthermore, Golden Gate Buys Norm Thompson nel. The fi nancial fi rm, which also owns adding Norm Thompson’s three brands Spiegel and Newport News, in November to our fi ve existing titles creates ever- NEW YORK — Golden Gate Capital selection of apparel and accessories acquired Appleseed’s and The Tog Shop, greater opportunities for each to ben- on Monday said it has acquired wom- through its catalogue, retail stores and as well as Draper’s & Damon’s. With the efi t from the scale and expertise of the en’s specialty catalogue firm Norm the Internet; Sahalie offers activewear Norm Thompson catalogue titles now group,” said Stefan Kaluzny, managing Thompson Outfi tters for an undisclosed and outdoor apparel, and Solutions is under its umbrella, Golden Gate will director at Golden Gate, in a statement. sum. geared toward home and personal care have annual revenues in excess of $700 Norm Thompson, headquartered in Founded in 1949, the three catalogues and accessories products. million, the fi nancial fi rm said. Hillsboro, Ore., will continue to operate that Norm Thompson operates all cater The San Francisco-based private eq- “With the addition of Norm at its current locations in Oregon, New to the growing Baby Boomer market. uity fi rm, which has $2.5 billion in capital Thompson, Solutions and Sahalie, we Hampshire and West Virginia. Norm Thompson Outfi tters offers a wide under management, specializes in acqui- have significantly increased our of- — Vicki M. Young the new

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Established Men’s Branded & Private Label DARON FASHIONS Production Mgr GROUP Designer Eveningwear Apparel Co. has the following openings: Great opportunity for right candi- Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. TECHNICAL DESIGNER The fastest moving & most date! Fast growing eveningwear Call CLOTHES-OUT: exciting Children’s Outerwear company seeks a strong candi- (937) 898-2975 Highly organized and detail oriented. Responsible for spec development and review, fitting and grading, detailed tech packages. Analyze garments Co. in the country seeks date to supervise and manage all to determine compliance of spec, construction, fit and quality. Ability to forward thinkers to work in aspects of production, must be communicate with overseas vendors to follow through all production aspects. a creative, fun & fast paced detail oriented with strong com- Must have extensive computer aided software design knowledge. environment. munication skills. 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Daily communication with factories and frequent overseas start to finished pckg. Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee travel to insure compliance. Knowledge of fabrics, garment construction Special Occasion Shop. www.midcomre.com and costing required. Ability to develop and evaluate new and existing •Assistant Baby Designer Weekends/ Evenings. Salary D.O.E. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 factories. Excellent communication skills required. Minimum of 5 years Please e-mail resumes to: management experience. All positions require [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts Photoshop & Illustrator exp. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS NEED FINANCING? DESIGNER or call (914) 381-3808 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Exciting Men’s Vintage Lifestyle brand seeking talented team player. Must Please fax/email resume to: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Are you struggling with have experience designing collections and understand product development financing your business? 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Finance Designer responsibilities include A/R, A/P, invoice to provide financing, administra- Faxor E-mail resumes to: reconciliation, charge back resolution, tion, shipping & distribution. 212-736-2349 / [email protected] VIVIENNE TAM cash application, payroll, GL coding & Please e-mail an outline maintenance, review of fiscal budgets NO-FEE DESIGNER & preparing cash forecasts. Operational of your business including duties include daily communications Largest Listing Portfolio Designer Seeking candidate w/min. 5 yrs. exp. in Garment Ctr Chelsea Flatiron A nationally recognized sportswear w/ DC, maintaining company operations contact person & phone number CUSTOMER SERVICE Women’s Cont. Designer Market, must manual, new vendor sets-ups, vendor Office/Lofts 1,000-10,000sf company is looking for a knitwear be creative & highly organized. 212-594-1414 Bernstein R.E. to: [email protected] Large Florida based company designer with a contemporary allure. compliance updates & requirements. Call Allan x251 or Jack x530 seeking customer service personnel. This is a great opportunity for a creative Strong communication & organizational person who has a true modern glow & TECHNICAL skills required. Candidate must have Candidates must have a minimum likes to have the freedom to experiment DESIGNER wholesale apparel exp. & be Excel pro- of 2 yrs prior exp., & possess strong in & outside the bubble. The mind set ficient. Ability to multi-task a must! GORGEOUS FRAGRANCE Seeking candidate w/min. 5 yrs. exp. in computer skills as well as excellent of our clothing & company is innovative, Salary commensurate with exp. & SKINCARE whimsical & fun. Women’s Designer Market, must possess Email resume to: [email protected] verbal communication skills. expert knowledge of Spec & Fit. Knit- TRADEMARKS FOR SALE! The person who fills this position wear a plus. CALL: (310) 729-7106 Excellent benefits package w/ a needs to understand & be able to navigate through the design process. Please e-mail resume w/sal. req. to : Import Production Manager pleasant working environment. Starting with the initial concept stage [email protected] Well est’d. Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks an Salary commensurate w/ exp. to the creation to the finished product. exp’d. Import Mgr. Duties include spec, also willing to relocate. If this is you, we would like to have the sourcing, L/Cs, schedules and monitoring opportunity to meet with you. Salary import shipments. Fax: 212-575-5505 Send resume to: starts at $90K, plus excellent benefits EDI/Computer Operator FAST TO MARKET including 401K plan. Magaschoni Apparel Group Junior/Missy/Jeans, Knits & Swtrs [email protected] Please e-mail resumes to: Growing Apparel Co. seeks a Computer 6-8 wks Sketch to Del., AQL [email protected] Operator exp’d, in distribution, EDI, and Knitwear Designer SALES opps. e: [email protected] importing software. Minimum 2 years Cut &Sew Designer 718-358-8278 FASHION RESUMES APPAREL JOBS experience w/Aria systems. Please E-mail 2 candidates needed for contemp design Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Technicals resume to: [email protected] driven private label co. Must have min 3 Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates 3)Designers-assoc-assist.boy-girl-YG men-Jr Designer Assistant yrs. exp. in full fashion sweaters & knit GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Infant layette co seeks an Asst Design- er. Ideal candidate should be organized, wear & have a modern taste level. Must be PATTERN/SAMPLES (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa able to work directly w/buyers & over- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast fashionresumes.com Associate Account Mgr detail oriented & a team player. Re- sponsibilities include communication seas office. Must be computer literate. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 fashioncareercenter.com Fast-growing Major Private Label Knit- FABRIC BUYER R&D $110K Asst. Designer wear Manufacturer has an exciting opp- w/overseas factories. Great follow-up Better Bridge Couture Designer skills, able to process artwork, Must have at least 1 yr exp. Must be ortunity in our NYC office. Will work FABRIC MATERIAL COORD $65K organized, detail/goal oriented, energetic PATTERNS, SAMPLES, closely with Snr Acc Mgr and responsible sampling /production packages, and Prod’n & Factories. Better Bridge Mkt assist Designer in all phases of devel- & a multi-tasker. Will work closely w/ all PRODUCTIONS for internal comms between customers [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 aspects of dress & woven development. and HK/China offices. opment & approvals. Great company All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. & full benefits! Illustrator a must. Pls Must be computer literate, especially in Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Must be detail oriented to excel at fax resume: A. Papa 212-842-4040 Excel & Photoshop. multi-tasking in this fast-pace team Pls email resumes to PATTERNS, SAMPLES, environment. Candidate must have 2-3 FABRIC CONVERTER [email protected] years knitwear experience, pref from a Designer/Associate Converter w/ 3-5 yrs exp. Must handle or Fax to 509-757-7814 PRODUCTIONS Production background. Well estbd. Northern NJ based child- lots, charge backs, specifications, Full service shop to the trade. Fax/Email resumes to: 212-242-4418 ren’s co. specializing in infant wear for order flow, quality control, negotia- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] better mkt, seeking talented, creative, tions with suppliers, delivery follow Menswear Patternmaker $90-100K detail oriented professionals to join up. Good communication skills and Full Collection Designer Asst. BOOKKEEPER WANTED our team. Min 2-3 yrs related exp. hands-on style are a must. Located in Womens 1st-thru Prod’n $75-85K 1407 Bwy. 3-5 years Must have gar- Knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator Woodbury, LI. Excellent compensation ment center experience. Bob 212-997-3511 Package and Growth Potential. E-mail Dress Patternmaker a must. Email resume to Attn: JF [email protected] or 212-947-3400 [email protected] [email protected] resume to: [email protected] Account Administrator/ BOOKKEEPER-A/R-A/P Sales Support Import co seeks organized team player DESIGNER Prom Dresses / Owner Retiring Well est’d private label intimate apparel w/ Quickbooks, Excel, analytical skills, Profitable 14 year wholesale business manufacturer in Northern NJ seeks strong computer A/P- A/R - charge- Major home furnishings company located with revenue of $500K, 200 customers, Acct Administrator to work on large backs / bank recs - Factor. Email or Fax: in Edison NJ, seeks experienced textile and net income of $100K. Inventory national account. [email protected] - 212-354-8809 designer. Must be proficient in Ned sold out; Operable from anywhere USA graphics and Adobe Photoshop . Suitable Tel: 800-640-7469 / Fax: 800-864-3975 Responsibilities candidates should be able to work with • style/item/UPC set up Customer Service speed and precision in a fast paced envi - • PO review and tracking Leading Women’s Apparel Company ronment. 3 years experience preferred • place and track production orders seeks a customer service person. Resp and training in woven fabrics is a plus. • label & hangtag set up and proofing include: exp in customer service w/ • calendar maintenance better specialty stores in the apparel Please e-mail resume to: • communication with account industry. Must have pleasant person- [email protected] ality & the ability to sell on the phone. Please mention "Designer" Requirements Computer literate, Garpac a +. Salary in subject line when sending e-mail. • 2 yrs exp. in garment manu facturing range $40-45K - location in NYC. Pls or retailing environment send resume: [email protected] • Must be highly proficient in Excel, and generally computer savvy DESIGNER • key characteristics include: highly Design Assistant Major Home Textile Mfr. seeks a creative organized, detail oriented, analytical, Bridge dress, suit & separates co. seeks Designer w/knowledge of fabrics, trends, strong communication skills, and highly motivated & creative indiv. to help and sourcing, for its NY office. Product strong follow through skills. execute collections. Must have computer lines include window, bedding, and bath. Excellent salary and benefit pkg. For proficiency & be able to work in a fast Must have experience w/overseas travel immediate consideration, please email paced environment. Please fax resume & customer presentations. Salary com- or fax your resume to: in confidence to: (212) 302-4602 mensurate w/ability. Medical/Dental/401K. Please E-mail resume & salary history to: Email: [email protected] [email protected] Fax: 201-392-9608 D E S I G N E R ADMIN ASSIST $8-10 HOUR Design Assistant Senior Designer - Boys - 2/4, 4/7, 8/18. Full Time Only. General Office Duties, Leading children’s wear manufacturer Licensed active looks. Illustrator necessary. Energetic, Excellent English. Computer seeks highly motivated/detailed indi- Must be self-motivated, able to put line A+. 34th St & 7th Avenue Location vidual for mid tier girls division to together, give artist direction. Detail Design Hell..p! Call Todd 212-947-3400 assist in all aspects of design through oriented. Please send resumes to: production. MAC & Illustrator a must. [email protected] Digital Arts Boot Camp Training Admin Since 1967 Please fax or email resume to: Individualized Custom Intensives Attn: Marina W-I-N-S-T-O-N (212) 967-8108/[email protected] DESIGNER-SWEATER Photoshop, Illustrator, Primavision NY-based sweater company seeks a APPAREL STAFFING Designer $80K to 90K. Current exp in highly creative designer with strong for Design Professionals DESIGN * SALES * MERCH newborn infant toddler. Midtown technical skills and high energy. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION growing Co. Branded or licensed or Photoshop and Illustrator must. Call 212-244-1435 for details (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 generic exp OK. Call 973-564-9236 Agency Email to: [email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 19 WWD.COM Adidas, Nike Awarded Damages Yoox Sales Rise 47% in ’05 By Cate T. Corcoran visitors will remember the retailer and By Liza Casabona lions of infringing goods produced; the will- come to the site by typing in a URL fulness of their conduct, and their behavior in NEW YORK — As big online retail- rather than coming through a search NEW YORK — A U.S. magistrate here has rec- this litigation all weigh towards a grant of the ers swallow little ones, privately held engine such as Google, which Marchetti ommended that Adidas and Nike be awarded maximum in statutory damages,” Ellis said in Italian Web store Yoox is turning in fears could raise its prices at any time. $22 million and $16 million in damages, re- his written opinion. solid results and staying on its inde- “We’ve created a lot of buzz around spectively, plus almost $250,000 in combined The counterfeit goods were discovered pendent course, said founder and chief Yoox. Being global helps a lot,” he said. fees and expenses, in a trademark infringe- in 2000. Two other related, but separate, ac- executive officer Federico Marchetti. The site has more than 2.5 million ment lawsuit against Top Brand Co. and sev- tions were fi led in Pennsylvania and New The company said Monday that visitors a month, and 50 percent of eral co-defendants. Jersey. Among the goods listed as counterfeit online revenues had reached $63 mil- them come to the site by typing in the The recommendation by Magistrate Ronald in the court documents were T-shirts, fl eece lion in 2005, an increase of 47 percent URL, Marchetti said. Ellis was handed down on Feb. 27, but was not sweatshirts and polo shirts bearing allegedly over the year before. The company “I do believe 100 percent that to sell immediately available. U.S. District Court counterfeit Nike trademarks, and T-shirts, has been profi table since 2004. fashion online also is an art and not Judge Kimba Wood here granted a combina- sneakers and soccer balls bearing allegedly Yoox is an online store that sells just a science,” said Marchetti. “Not tion of default and summary judgments in counterfeit Adidas trademarks, court docu- out-of-season designer clothing at a dis- everybody has the ability to do fashion July in the lawsuit, which had been under way ments said. The goods were manufactured in count, vintage clothing, and special col- online. In Silicon Valley, maybe every- for fi ve years. Wood referred the case to mag- the Philippines, Hong Kong, Taiwan and the lections it commissions from designers thing works, but feelings, emotions, istrate court for three issues: an accounting of U.S. and were sold through jobbers and off- such as Bernard Wilhelm. pictures — you cannot have the hard profi ts against some defendants, whether cer- price retailers, said Martin Feinberg, a law The company recently signed its part without the soft.” tain profi ts should be trebled and an account- partner with the Gursky Group of Dreier LLP, fi rst agreement to build and run an on- As for the future of online coming of attorneys’ fees. Ellis’ recommendation which represented the two brands. line store for an Italian apparel maker. merce and the recent acquisition of is subject to approval by Wood. The original complaint fi led by Nike and The name will be announced in April. Shopbop by Amazon, Marchetti said MHK Products Inc., Transfund Capital Adidas alleged 20 counts of trademark coun- Meanwhile, Yoox is in discussions with he thinks “we’ll see a lot of changes” LLC and the owner of both fi rms, Jay Enis, terfeiting, trademark infringement, false des- other manufacturers. “We’re trying to in the near future as big retailers ex- were ordered to pay $12 million in statutory ignation of origin, trademark dilution (both get the ones we think will be success- pand into new markets and new play- damages to Nike and $5 million to Adidas. federal and common law), trade dress infringe- ful,” Marchetti said. ers go online. Top Brand, Global Surplus, Rosson Sport Inc. ment and unfair competition. Yoox, which has distribution centers Marchetti said he does not plan to and executives Vincent Militano and Hanoch The lawsuit was one of three related ac- in Europe, Japan, and the U.S., recently sell Yoox and is not looking for inves- Rosner were told to pay Nike $4 million and tions fi led in three states that involved a ring started shipping to every country. The tors, but hopes to go public eventually. Adidas $17 million in statutory damages. of counterfeit Nike and Adidas goods, Feinberg process was fairly simple, involving a “The Internet is already and will be- Neither the defendants nor their lawyers said. “What’s signifi cant about this is it was a more integrated relationship with its come even more of a jungle. If everyone could be reached for comment. piece of a multistate litigation involving coun- couriers and Customs, said Marchetti. is wearing black, it makes sense to wear The statutory damages recommended terfeit goods….They were part of a multistate Eventually, Yoox plans to localize its ser- white,” he said, looking around the sea are the maximum available, $1 million per and multinational operation or ring,” he said. vice for new markets, most likely South of dark jackets in the dining room of trademark. The breadth and scope of the counterfeit orga- Korea, Taiwan, Russia, and China. Lever House during an interview. “A “The size of the defendants’ infringing op- nization was extensive, involving $30 million in “We are trying to make Yoox a des- differentiation strategy makes sense. erations, which led to the production of mil- counterfeit goods overall, he said. tination,” Marchetti said, meaning that We will stay independent.”

Merchandiser /DESIGNER Line/to $120K+ • Bridal Gown Sewing/Sales Sales Pro - Sportswear Contemporary/JR. Collection Samplemaker $700-$800 Wk Technical Designer Leading better sportswear firm has an Wonderful opportunity to merchandise BETTER RUNWAY DESIGNER Westchester based Sportswear mfr. seeks • Bridal Gown Sales opening for a motivated, exp’d pro. this young contemporary premium Production Asst/Coordinator Call Kwan 212-947-3400 Jessilyn indiv. w/ both knits-woven bottom exp. Acquire clients as a P/T Salesperson & Min. 5 yrs exp. Strong mkt contacts & denim designer jean collection. Req. Fast Growing est’d Jr. denim Wholesale Person must have knowledge of garmen t do alterations from home. Hourly wage existing relationships w/ better specialty expr. merch. better jeans/sportswear to Co. seeks a Production Asst. / Coordinator construction, patterns & measuring + Commission + Alteration fees. Also stores, catalogs, pvt label following. department specialty stores. Responsibilities: Setting up tech-packs, ability. Daily correspondence w/ factories seeking an exp’d PT Bridal gown Sales E-mail resume: [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] placing & following up on purchase orders Senior Designer & customers as you follow spls from person. BOTH positions require fluency (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)212-532-5313 Position requires; Minimum 2 yrs exp. YM contemporary bottom driven brand 1st fit thru prod’n. Fax: (914) 328-7941 in English & an outgoing personality. Some denim background, basic Photoshop seeks a creative & ORIGINAL designer or E-mail: [email protected] or Please fax resume to: (212) 367-9050 [email protected] SALES PRO - Sweaters & Knits preferred. Great work environment oppty’s to design & execute fm conceptions to Seeking knowledgeable Sales Person with for growth w/ excellent salary & bnfits. finished products. Fashion Design degree CASSIN current active accounts. IF YOU WANT A Please email resume: [email protected] is a must; min. 3 yrs exp. in premium Technical Production GREAT OPPORTUNITY, FAX YOUR PATTERNMAKER CONTEMPORARY clothing brands, SWEATERS Sales Executive RESUME TO: Howard Korn/ 212-221-3480 Min 6 yrs exp in first & production Public Relations must be self-motivated, detail-oriented & Sweater co. seeks motivated, experienced Luxury Co seeks self-motivated, disci- patterns for women’s sportswear co. deadline driven. Great compensation. Technical Production person. Respon- plined person to join our team. Must Must know factory procedures, be able Manager Portfolio, reference & salary history sibilities include: product specs, fittings, have 5 yrs exp in Designer Market Sr. Textile Sales Manager to communicate with overseas factory European luxury goods company is required. Email resume to: L/D’s & dye lot approvals. Must be w/est’d contacts in high-end Specialty Global Textile Manufacturer seek sales & work under tight deadlines. looking for a pr manager. Three to five [email protected] organized, detail oriented & able to & Dept stores nationwide. Knowledge professional w/ min 8 yrs in textile sales, years of pr and luxury goods experi- go with the flow. A fabulous growth of Int’l Market a +. Responsibilities in- sourcing & merchandising. Undergrad OFFICE MANAGER ence required. Excellent writing and opportunity for the right person. Will clude managing existing accounts and degree in textile, working exp in textile Able to multi task and work in a fast communications skills. Proven media shipping asst. manager work directly with Production Coordi- developing new ones. Must be a team mills a plus, proven record of increasing paced environment. Good communica- relations and national network of nator. Queens Location. Minimum 2 yrs. player & have good fashion sense. business & revenue. E-mail resume to: tion and organizational skills. Familiar Exp. in data entry, invoicing, must experience. Please send resume to: Some travel req’d. Salary/Benefits [email protected] media contacts a must. Responsible have knowledge of EDI, shipping allo- with Excel, Quickbooks & Word. for consignments, special events and Fax: (718) 418-9354, Attn. Tori or pkge. Fax Resume: 212-268-7425 or cation, & expreience in shipping re- Email: [email protected] email: [email protected] SAMPLE MAKER press launches. A great sense of quirements of major retailers, knowl- Min 5 yrs exp in making first sample. personal style and appreciation for edge of the AS400. Minimum of 3 yrs. twinkle luxury. French speaking a plus. Send experience. TRIM BUYER $45K Fast Paced Off Price Importer resume to [email protected] Major Collection. Better Bridge Design of Men’s, Women’s & Kid’s seeks Fax resume w/ salary requirement to: Fax resume to: Bernardo Fashions Attn: Cesar 212-594-3999 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 motivated Sales Person with following. 212-625-8712 Attn: Bernard RELO OPPTYS $$$$$$ Fax resume: 516-328-0143 * Minnesota-Trim Developer $85-95K SOHO/RETAIL * Minnesota-Sr Fabric R&D $75-95K Seeking Sales Associates who are crea- Tech Designer P/T LINGERIE SALESPERSON tive, fashion conscious, people oriented PROD’N COORDS TO $55K * Wisconsin-Prodn Sourc Mgr $70K Busy lingerie co. seeks Salesperson with Strong Time ’n Action Established, Ladies’ Sportswear Co. with social skills. Must be reliable & BI-LING CHINESE. GREAT OPPTYS! seeks a Freelance Tech Designer 2/3 3 yrs. exp. Must be highly motivated. [email protected] * Wisconsin-Fabric Coord $50-70K punctual. Sales exp. essential. PT (Fri, Sat. Days per week. Candidate must be Relationships with major dept. stores. & Sun.), FT (Mon.-Fri.) Salary + Comm. Purchaser. Work w/Mills a +. Pls. fax resume to: (201) 767-8894 [email protected] 212-947-3400 PhotoShop/Illustrator proficient, be Call Roden, M-F 12-8 pm (212) 677-2332 able to create detailed tech pack from PROD’N MGR $75-$80K RETAIL STRATEGIST/PLANNER original garment to send to factory SALES / ADMIN Runway Designer. Run 3 Factories SENIOR ANALYST/ $85 to $100k+ overseas for first sample & have 2-3 Updated Knitwear, Tank & T-shirt Co. Must Be Able to Cost Garments Great oppty. to become the Sr. Analyst years exp. Salary commensurate w/ seeking exp’d Salesperson. Must have [email protected] or 212-947-3400 for this multi-div. apparel Co. and grow exp. Fax resume with salary req. to: Account Manager strong existing relationships and est’d a dept. Req: 4+ yrs. as an analyst either 973-249-8651 or Email: [email protected] contacts with all classes of trade. in retail (Federated type stores) or a large EOE/M/F/V/D Accessories E-mail resume to: [email protected] wholesale company in apparel. Have the ability to analyze dept. and specialty Excellent Opportunity Sales Executive store sales and give accurate projections The Echo Design Group, adynamic for buying on a regular schedule, strong Tech Designer Growing licensed Infant wear Co. seeks Production Assistant-Import Secaucus co. seeks Tech Designer full- multi-division accessory company is motivated team player with at least 5 analytical skills, multi-task, excellent seeking an experienced sales executive We are seeking import prod assistant communication skills, EXCEL, fast-paced. fashion sweaters; cut & sew knits. years exp. Please fax resume with sal. SALES REPS WANTED w/min of 3-4 years experience in areas of Must have complete knwldg sweaters, to manage major department stores requirements to: 212-279-0131 Looking for outstanding commission E-mail resume: [email protected] accounts. The territory is NY based, fabric & trim purchase/follow-up, tracking (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)212-532-5313 yarns, stitches. Must be exp’d in based Sales Reps for full garment WIP, fabric/gmt testing procedures, specing, fittings, grading, comn w/ accessories experience is preferred. packages. Factory direct specializing monitoring prod schedule & daily vendors. Excel, & Illustrator exp. a We require a passionate, motivated SALES in moderate to better fashionable knits communication w/overseas factories. Sales Assistant must. 5 yrs exp. Salary commensurate and detail oriented individual with Importer of ladies suits is seeking a for women’s & men’s apparel. We ship Must possess strong communication/ Infant wear Co. seeks executive assis- with exp. FULL TIME. excellent communications and salesperson with experience selling LDP and FOB. Call our office in NY @ organizational skills, excellent computer tant with at least 3 yrs exp. Please fax Fax Dir Tech Design: 201-866-0387 presentation skills. This position embellished / MOB suits to specialty (212) 400-2510 skills & attention to detail a must. resume with sal. req. to: 212-279-0131 requires appropriate retail, planning and Department / Chain stores. Email resume and cover letter to: and computer skills. Please fax resume to: (212) 869-0246 [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER $85K We offer a great work environment, att Prod Assist 3/06 SALES ASSISTANT SALES MGR/BRAND MANAGER/$$$ Private Label Division of moderate Well Known Designer Wovens opportunities for growth & an excellent compensation & benefits package. Jr. DENIM COLLECTION sportswear Co. looking for experienced [email protected] Great opportunity for Brand Manager of sales asst. for sales team. Resp. include Please email or fax resume to Junior division w/$30-50M projections. Production Assistant writing orders, tracking retail sales by The Echo Design Group, Inc: This is a high profile celebrity’s jr. col- Small private label co. specializing in acct., filing and sample requests. App- Technical Designer Email: [email protected] lection selling to Dept. (FED. etc.) & woven/knits needs motivated & detail licant must be highly organized, detail Min. 2-3 years experience preferred in Fax (212) 686-5017 Specialty stores (hanging w/XOXO, oriented person to oversee all aspects of oriented and able to multi task. Good Outerwear. Proficient in Illustrator/ Rampage/ DKNY etc.) You must have prod. Daily correspondence w/ design & follow-up skills are necessary. Knowl- Photoshop. Candidate must have ACCOUNT MGRS {3} ...... 50-75K current JR. sportswear experience sell- overseas vendors. Must have strong edge of retail math & Excel a must. knowledge of garment construction, 2-5 yrs+sales/planning mass merchants ing to Department & Specialty stores. comm & spread sheets skills. Outlook, To set up an interview please email patterns, & measuring ability. E-mail Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 E-mail resume: [email protected] Word, Excel. [email protected] resumes to: [email protected] resumes: [email protected] [email protected] (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)212-532-5313 Lace skirt and velvet blazer by Helen Wang. Fabric by cotton. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com

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