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Mysterious Way PARIS — Olivier Theyskens Understands That It’S Often the Demure Girl Who Attracts the Most Attention in the Room

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Mysterious Way PARIS — Olivier Theyskens Understands That It’S Often the Demure Girl Who Attracts the Most Attention in the Room NEIMAN’S TAPS DOWNING/3 WWD SOURCING FORUM/8-11 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • March 14, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Mysterious Way PARIS — Olivier Theyskens understands that it’s often the demure girl who attracts the most attention in the room. Accordingly, his Rochas collection for fall was a lesson in intriguing subtlety, as demonstrated by this graceful long-sleeved gown printed with fl ying blackbirds. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Handicapping the Stars: Which Young Designer Will Prosper in Future? By Rosemary Feitelberg NEW YORK — Behnaz Sarafpour, Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen, Richard Chai and Trovata. What do these designers have in common? They’re among those who retailers predict could be the future big names in New York fashion. That is, if they don’t succumb to the pitfalls that have befallen so many of their predecessors: lack of financing, difficulty lining up quality production and getting floor space at retail. But stores agree there hasn’t been such a surge in new talent here in years. Of the 180 designers who showed in and See Forecasting, Page 12 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 14, 2006 WWD.COM Dsquared Signs Scent Deal With ICR By Stephanie Epiro contract with ICR-ITF for pro- duction and distribution of fra- WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles MILAN — Dsquared added an- grances and cosmetics, a pact other brick to the foundation of that will be renewable every fi ve its growing fashion brand when years. Dis tribution plans call for FASHION it announced a licensing agree- expansion from Italy and Europe A dress doesn’t have to be revealing to be sexy, as European designers ment with Italian fragrance man- in 2007 and a full distribution net- 6 proved with evening looks that showed little skin but plenty of allure. ufacturer ICR here Monday. work that’s expected to comprise Dan and Dean Caten, the twin some 35 countries by 2009, includ- GENERAL designers behind the 12-year-old ing countries in North America, RTW: Behnaz Sarafpour, Proenza Schouler and Richard Chai could be brand, and Roberto Martone, the Mideast, Central and South the next big designers if they don’t succumb to the industry’s pitfalls. chairman of ICR and its distribu- America, and Asia. Martone said 1 tion arm ITF, announced the fra- the fragrances will be distributed Dsquared added another brick to the foundation of its growing brand grance license at Dsquared’s new in 8,000 doors and be rolled out to 2 with a licensing agreement with Italian fragrance manufacturer ICR. glossy black, nearly 10,000-square- 14,000 points of sale. Ending months of speculation, Neiman Marcus Stores on Monday foot offi ces in Via Tortona. Martone and the designers named Ken Downing senior vice president and fashion director. “It’s an important step for us said that although a cosmetics 3 as a brand, as it shows we are line isn’t ruled out for the fu- Sourcing executives and government offi cials address key issues shap- growing stronger and bigger,” said ture, for now the license will re- 8 ing the supply chain at the fi rst WWD Sourcing Leadership Forum. Dan Caten. “It’s also a part of the main fragrance-focused. TRANSIT: Dubai Ports World’s offer to divest U.S. interests did little to new image our company is taking Both parties refused to dis- on. Our label has a look, and now close financial terms of the 14 ease concerns the controversy brought over port security. it has a smell.” Dan (left) and Dean Caten with agreement. Industry sources es- TEXTILES: The Colombiatex fair generated $33 million in business and “It’s the right timing,” added Roberto Martone. timate Dsquared’s fi rst-year fra- 15 gave local companies a chance to enhance the country’s poor image. Dean Caten. grance sales could reach about This is the sixth fragrance 10 million euros, or $11.9 million license for ICR-ITF, which also at current exchange. EYE holds fragrance licenses for BEAUTY BEAT “The brand has massive po- London may have been dripping with rain last week, but the skies were Roberto Cavalli, Extè, Gian- tential,” said Martone. 4 clear at Annabel’s, and the snow babes were out in force. franco Ferré, Romeo Gigli and with a follow-up fragrance slated Dsquared closed 2005 with Gai Mattiolo. to bow a year later. Whether the turnover of about 70 million Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................18-19 “I am really impressed with scents will be women’s or men’s euros, or $83.6 million. In addition To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Dsquared’s creativity, and most is still to be decided. to the fragrance license, the fash- [email protected], using the individual’s name. of all struck by the potential of “Dan and Dean have a very ion house currently holds a cloth- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- the brand — that really stands precise idea in their minds about ing and accessories production RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. as the driving force behind this what they want for their first license with Staff International, VOLUME 191, NO. 55. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- agreement,” said Martone. fragrance, down to the packag- a women’s footwear license with ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Development of Dsquared’s ing and the bottle, which for us Vicini and a men’s footwear li- Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers fi rst fragrance is already under is an exciting way to work,” said cense with Galizio Torresi. Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; way. The scent is scheduled to Martone. — With contributions from David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior be launched in September 2007, Dsquared signed a 12-year Courtney Colavita Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Coles Myer Sells Myer for $1.02B DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other NEW YORK — Coles Myer Ltd. includes the flagship store in and current investments include U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. has sold its Myer business to a Melbourne, Australia. The deal, Debenhams in the U.K., the Bally First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions consortium led by Newbridge expected to be completed in the luxury brand in Switzerland, and and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To Capital, the Asian Pacific in- next few months, is subject to J. Crew and Petco in the U.S. Last subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make vestment arm of Texas Pacifi c third-party approvals. year, TPG and private investment our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Group, for $1.02 billion, the com- Newbridge Capital is one of fi rm Warburg Pincus bought luxu- us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. pany said on Monday. Asia’s leading private equity ry retailer Neiman Marcus Group, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- The consortium includes the firms, with over $2 billion of which also operates the Bergdorf SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Myer family, which will retain a capital under management. It Goodman nameplate. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED minority stake in the business, was founded in 1994 by TPG and Coles Myer, which in Febru- according to published reports.
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