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Behind the Scenes

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who made my stay in the so mem- OUR READERS orable. And to my family who always keep the home Many thanks to the travellers who used the last fires burning – os quiero and I can’t wait to take you edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful there next time. advice and interesting anecdotes: Alan Taylor, Anastasia Papaioannou, Andrea Edwards, Paul Harding Andrew Walter, Cathy Sohler, Daniel Richard, Jane Thanks to all those travellers and locals who helped Rushworth, Kathrin Schad, Kersti Esbjörnsson, Mary with company and advice on my journey through Munro, Patricia Aufderheide, Pauline Dejoux, Sain ’s most remote corners, especially the Alizada, Shelagh O’Brien helpful guys who got me out of vehicular trouble at Eliot Falls. Thanks to Tamara for coffee and a chat in , and to Tasmin at LP. But mostly to Hannah WRITER THANKS and Layla for being there. Brett Atkinson Kate Morgan Thanks to Tourism WA and visitor information Big thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout the the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way state. Cheers to Western ’s talented craft around ’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you brewers for refreshment on the road, and special to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking thanks to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another partner on occasion, and to my partner Trent for all opportunity to explore my spectacular neighbour. your help and support. Thanks also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the industrious in-house editors and cartogra- Charles Rawlings-Way phers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper helpful souls I met and friends I reconnected with chocolate when I got home. on the road in and Tasmania, who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Anthony Ham Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increas- A very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me ingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around out into some of Australia’s most beautiful corners in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also that Ione, Remy Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others schooled, tucked-in and read-to. 1079 Andy Symington together this new edition. As per always lots of love As a prodigal Sydneysider returned for this project, to my family, particularly my partner Kate, who I I’ve had so much invaluable advice and help from had the great fortune of having accompany me this friends about what’s going on in town that I can’t time round. possibly thank them all. Tourist offices and more were helpful across the region. Particular gratitude, Virginia Maxwell Staff at visitor information centres in Tasmania however, goes to Stephen Freiberg, Kate McGuin- SCENES THE BEHIND ness, Hugh O’Keefe, Ben Hamilton, Matthew Beech, were almost universally knowledgeable, helpful Iain and Amanda Ashley, Tasmin Waby and the LP and friendly. Particular thanks go to Jo in Wyn- team. And also, as ever, to my family. yard, Bronwyn in Strahan and Michelle at Cradle Mountain. Thanks, too, to my travel companions Kate Armstrong Peter Handsaker and Catherine Hannebery, to Particular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit Vic- Janni Soltys for first bringing Pumphouse Point to toria; Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; my attention and to Mandy Stroebel for her local Sue Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, insight. Greater Shepparton City Council; and Fran Martin, Echuca Visitor Information Centre. Finally, to my Tamara Sheward dear friends Sue Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – Sweaty Cairns hugs and hearty thanks to my with thanks. friends, family, local experts and random ring-ins who helped me delve ever deeper into the wonders Carolyn Bain of my hometown and surrounds; it’s always an Covering such vast distances and calling to check eye-opener being a traveller/travel writer in one’s on some astoundingly beautiful coastline was own backyard. At LP, mega-thanks to Tasmin Waby a joy – my thanks to Tasmin Waby for the com- for the gig, and for your eternal encouragement; mission, and to fellow WA scribes Brett Atkinson and to chapter co-author Paul Harding. The and Steve Waters for sharing info. In the west, biggest clink of the coconuts goes, as ever, to my sincere thanks to all those who guided me to favourite FNQers: my crazy crocodiles Dušan and find ancient rocks, manta rays, deserted beaches Masha. and breathtaking aerial panoramas, and also to those who shared a beer, a chat, travel tips and Tom Spurling recommendations. To Tasmin for choosing me to go around again! To Goose for riding shotgun to Rockhampton and Cristian Bonetto making me go for a jog. To Lucy for sleeping in First and foremost, an epic thank you to Drew the backseat and showing no interest in cryptic Westbrook for his hospitality and generosity. Sin- crosswords. To the bar staff in Ravenswood for cere thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, reminding me why I wanted this job in the first Amy Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, place. To the Whitsundays for being discovered. To Michael Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sulli- the Town of 1770 for providing so many openings at van, Garry Judd and the many locals who offered dinner parties (a number? Really?). To my children insight and insider knowledge along the way. At for not missing me very much (I will never forget Lonely Planet, a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for that slight, O and P). her support and encouragement. Benedict Walker Peter Dragicevich Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby/Tamsin Maybe from Researching this guidebook was an absolute LP for taking me on for this awesome roadie and pleasure, especially because of the wonderful for sticking by me when I struck a few potholes company that I had on the road. Special thanks go along the way. To my sometime co-pilot, the lovely to Braith Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey Sarah Sabell, for teaching me to drive stick and not and Jo Stafford for all their practical assistance in fighting with me even once! And to my beautiful Melbourne, and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for mum Trish, and the Cooks, who let me go off to the Canberra Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my do my own thing at a time of family grief. I live a eating and drinking buddies along the way, espe- weird and wonderful life but without your love and cially Errol Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto support, I’d have nothing and be nobody. and Maryanne Netto. Steve Waters Trent Holden Thanks to Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbie, Meika First up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for and Kaeghan for midnight arrivals, James, Toby, commissioning me to update the bulk of regional John, Sam, Lauren, Dana and the rest of MC for Victoria. Was an absolute honour to cover my home gorge love, Di for making us a cuppa during the state. Totally blown away how much cool stuff grand final, Unruly Ted for getting that trivia ques- there is to visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist tion, Roz and Megan for caretaking and especially visitor centres across the state, who are staffed Hamish and Kaz for sharing all those sunsets and by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a sunrises and drowning out the dust, heat and cor- sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving rugations with grace, good humour and lashings of me the time of day for a chat, and helping me put ginger Matsos. 1080 Donna Wheeler Love and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi- ration and incredible regional knowledge. Thanks to ex-locals Peter Maclaine and Debbie Wheeler, especially for Pete’s surfing expertise. Thanks to Harry in Broadbeach, to the Byron skydivers and to

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Amanda and Simon in Brunswick Heads for great hospo insights. Thanks also to Nic Wrathall for your company during some long research days and Brigid Healy and Andrew King, Kate Dale, Darryn Devlin for homecoming love. Finally thanks to Joe Guario. for everything.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Sydney Trains Network and Sydney Ferries Network maps © Transport for NSW 2017. Train and ferry maps courtesy of Transport for NSW. Maps current at time of printing. Photograph p12, bottom: image courtesy of MONA Museum of Old and New Art, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia. Photographs p20, bottom, and page 60, top right: images courtesy of Tourism NT, Australia. Illustration pp72-3 by Javier Zarracina. Cover photograph: Aerial image photographed near Broome in Western Australia, shannonstent/Getty.

Flannery and Dr Janelle White. Lemer, Jodie Martire, Rosie THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, This 19th edition of Lonely by the following: Susan Paterson, Chris Pitts, Planet’s Australia guidebook Destination Editor Saralinda Turner, Simon was researched and written by Tasmin Waby Williamson Brett Atkinson, Anthony Ham, Product Editors Vicky Smith, Assisting Cartographers Paul Harding, Kate Morgan, Catherine Naghten Julie Dodkins, James Leversha Charles Rawlings-Way, Andy Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher Symington, Kate Armstrong, Julie Sheridan Naomi Parker Carolyn Bain, Cristian Bonetto, Thanks to William Allen, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Book Designer Nicholas Colicchia Jennifer Carey, Hannah Holden, Virginia Maxwell, Ta- Cartmel, Heather Champion, Assisting Editors Sarah mara Sheward, Tom Spurling, Daniel Corbett, Megan Eaves, Benedict Walker, Steve Waters Bailey, Andrew Bain, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Shona Gray, Sandie Kestell, and Donna Wheeler. We would Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, also like to thank the following Bridget Blair, Laura Crawford, Melanie Dankel, Andrea MaSovaida Morgan, Claire people for their contributions Naylor, Karyn Noble, Jessica to this guide: Dr Michael Cath- Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Ryan, Ross Taylor, Amanda cart, Cathy Craigie, Dr Tim Williamson, Clifton Wilkinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1081

Index

A Warradjan Aboriginal Melbourne 480 tours 722-3 Aboriginal art 18, 861, 1012, Cultural Centre 827 Monkey Mia 969 travel to/from 736 1032-3, 18, 20 Aboriginal cultural 216 travel within 737-8 festivals 861, Aboriginal Australians 1016- 860-1 Nitmiluk (Katharine Hills 738-43, 739 17, 1026, 1031-4, see Barunga Festival 836, 861 Gorge) National Park Adelaide Oval 24 836 also Aboriginal history, Garma Festival 831 Adnyamathanha people 789 Aboriginal culture 886 Kullarri Naidoc Week 997 adventure tours 27 Aboriginal culture 27, Tiwi Islands 812 Laura Aboriginal Dance Blue Mountains 143 860-1, 1031-4, see also Festival 435 Tully 386-7 Aboriginal art Coral Bay 973-6 Mahbilil Festival 825 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Denham 968 Aboriginal cultural centres, Merrepen Arts Festival Park 872 see also art galleries Derby 1004 820 Yulara 872 Araluen Cultural Precinct Gibb River Road 1006 Stone Country Festival Aboriginal history 632-3, 851 830 933, 1018-19, 1021, 1026, Grampians 580 Djilpin Arts 832 Tjungu Festival 873 1030 Great Sand National Park: Dreamtime Cultural Walking With Spirits 843 Abrolhos the 963 Cooloola Section 335 Centre 356 Aboriginal cultural tours abseiling, see rock climbing Jindabyne 241 Ghunmarn Culture Centre 860 & abseiling Jurien Bay 925 24, 843 Adelaide 722 accessible travel 1063 Kalbarri 964-5 Godinymayin Yijard Rivers accommodation 24, 1052-4, Kangaroo Island 752-3 Arts & Culture Centre Arnhem Land 828-9 see also individual Kangaroo Valley 223 832 Ballina 183 locations Karijini National Park 991 Injalak Arts & Crafts Beagle Bay 1001 Centre 830 Broome 997 ACT 62, 252-66, 253 Phillip Island 536 Jellurgal Cultural Centre Bunbury 927 activities 53-7, 59, see also Port Lincoln 782 317 individual activities, Snowy River National Bungle Bungle Range locations Katoomba 147 1014 Park 594 Adelaide 715-38, 720-1, Koorie Heritage Trust 464 187 Tasmania 634 724-5, 730-1, 35 Krowathunkoolong Cape Leveque 1002 Whitsundays 362 accommodation 714, 725-8 Keeping Place 592 Cooktown 430 Wollongong 220 activities 720-2 Mowanjum Art & Culture Darwin 802 AFL 1047, 31 children, travel with 723 Centre 1006-7 Denmark 947 Agnes Water 351-5 climate 714 Nagula Jarndu Women’s Derby 1004 air travel, see also scenic Resource Centre 993 drinking & nightlife 732-3 Fremantle 907 flights Narana Aboriginal Cultural emergencies 735 Geikie (Darngku) Gorge airlines 1067, 1068 Centre 543 entertainment 734 1006 airports 1067 Tjapukai Aboriginal festivals & events 723-5 Gibb River Road 1006 to/from Austalia 1067 Cultural Park 393 food 714, 728-32 Great Northern Highway within Australia 1068 Top Didj Cultural Experi- 1009 internet access 736 Aireys Inlet 551-2 ence & Art Gallery 832 Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) itineraries 718 Townsville 378 Airlie Beach 365-70, 366 830 media 736 Walyalup Aboriginal Albany 24, 949-53, 950 Ingham 385 medical services 736 Cultural Centre 906 Albury 244-6 823 money 736 Wardan Aboriginal alchohol restrictions 434 Centre 933 Karratha 986 postal services 736 45, 850-62, Katharine 832 shopping 735 852-3, 856 Lombadina 1002 sights 715-19 accommodation 855-7 Map Pages 000 Mary River 815 tourist information 736 activities 853-4 Photo Pages 000 1082 Alice Springs continued Seahorse World 688 Gertrude Contemporary Waralungku Arts Centre drinking & nightlife 858 Solitary Islands Art Space 468 845 entertainment 858 Aquarium 177 Godinymayin Yijard Waringarri Aboriginal festivals & events 854-5 Sydney Sea Life Rivers Arts & Culture Arts Centre 1011 Centre 832 food 857-8 Aquarium 82 White Rabbit 97 area codes 1062 Heide Museum of Wintjiri Arts & Museum medical services 859 Modern Art 473

INDEX INDEX 872 safety 859 Armidale 198-9 Arnhem Highway 813-16 Ian Potter Centre: NGV Atherton 417 shopping 858-9 Australia 456-7 Arnhem Land 20, Atherton Tablelands 398, sights 850-2 Justin Art House 414-18

A-B 828-32, 20  tourist information 859 Museum 476 art galleries 27, see also ATMs 1059

tours 854 Kimberleys, the 1012  Aboriginal cultural Auburn 764-5 travel to/from 859 centres Linden New Art 477 Augusta 939-41 travel within 862 Aboriginal Cultural MAMA 245 Australia Day 28, 67, 1020 American River 755 Centre & Keeping Mason Gallery 797 Australia Zoo 329 Place 198 amusement parks Mbantua Fine Art Gallery Australian Capital Territory Alcaston Gallery 468 809, Adventure World 886 861 (ACT) 62, 252-66, 253 177 Araluen Arts Centre 851 MONA 12, 639-40, 12 Australian Museum 85 315 Art Gallery of Ballarat Mornington Peninsula Australian National Luna Park (Melbourne) 566 Regional Gallery 532 Maritime Museum 77 477 Art Gallery of NSW 75 Mulgara Gallery 872 28, 480, Luna Park (Sydney) 96 Art Gallery of South Murray Bridge Regional 1048 Movie World 315 Australia 715 Gallery 767 Australian Parliament 315 Art Gallery of Western Museum & Art Gallery of House 254-6 Australia 879 Wet’n’Wild (Gold Coast) the Northern Territory Australian Rules football 315 Australian Centre for 801 1047 Contemporary Art 466 Wet’n’Wild (Sydney) 100 Museum of Australian War Memorial Australian Galleries 469 Contemporary Art 75 WhiteWater World 315 254 Backwoods Gallery 468 National Gallery of automobile clubs 1071 Angaston 763-4 Australia 254 Bendigo Art Gallery 571 Avoca 150 Anglesea 550-1 National Portrait Gallery Boom Gallery 543 Avon Valley 921-2 Angourie 181-3 254 Brett Whiteley Studio 85 Ayers Rock, see Uluru animals 15, 404, 1036-8, Newcastle Art Gallery Broken Hill Regional Art see also individual 158 Ayton 429 Gallery 212 species Ngukurr Arts Centre 844 Antechinus 864 Buku Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre & Museum NGV International 466 1026 B 831 Norval Gallery 1003 Babinda Boulders 392 apartments 1053 Bunbury Regional Art Nyinkka Nyunyu 847 Ballarat 566-71, 568 Apollo Bay 554-6 Galleries 926-7 Perth Institute of Ballina 183-4 aquariums Cairns 393 Contemporary Arts Bamaga 437 Aquarium of Western (PICA) 882 Caloundra Regional B&Bs 1052 Australia 879, 882 Powerhouse Geelong Gallery 329 bandicoots 823 Aquascene 797 City Precinct 539-42 Calyx 70 Bangalow 191-2 Cairns Aquarium 392 Pro Hart Gallery 212 Castlemaine Art Gallery bank accounts 1059 Manly Sea Life & Historical Museum Qdos Art Gallery 552 Barcaldine 450 Sanctuary 97-8 576-7 Queen Victoria Art Marineland Crocodile Celia Rosser Gallery 585 Gallery 680 Barkly Tableland 843 Park 411 Centre for Contemporary Queenscliff Gallery 545 Barmera 769-70 Merimbula Aquarium 235 Photography 468 Queensland Art Gallery Barossa Valley 16, 759-64, National Zoo & Convent Gallery 528 274 761, 16 Aquariums 256 Courthouse Gallery 988 Riddoch Art Gallery 776 Batavia Coast 959-66 Ocean Park 967 Devonport Regional Rockhampton Art Gallery Batchelor 817-18 Reef HQ Aquarium 377 Gallery 693 356-7 Batemans Bay 230-1 Reef World 337 Fremantle Arts Centre TarraWarra Museum of bathrooms 1062 Sea Life (Melbourne) 906 Art 524 Bathurst 202-4 465 Gallery of Modern Art Tasmanian Museum & Bathurst Island 813 Sea Life Sunshine Coast (GOMA) 271, 274 Art Gallery 637 Bay of Fires 676-7 331 Top Didj Cultural Experi- Geelong Art Gallery 539 beaches 25, 514-15 ence & Art Gallery 832 Geraldton Regional Art Avalon 99 Gallery 959 Wagga Wagga Art Gallery Map Pages 000 246 Basin, the 912 Photo Pages 000 1083 Batemans Bay 230 Palm Beach (Gold Coast) Big Banana 177 Hinchinbrook Island 386 Bay of Fires 676 318-19 331 Houtman Abrolhos Bells Beach 549, 541 Palm Beach (Sydney) 99 Big Prawn 183 Islands 963 Bill’s Bay 973 Palm Cove 413 Bigsound Festival 279 Jervis Bay 227 Boat Harbour Peregian 334 bike riding, see cycling Kakadu 823 Beach 701 Port Campbell National Binalong Bay 676 Kangaroo Island 756

Bondi Beach 87, 10, Park 558 birds 1040 Katherine Gorge 836 INDEX 79, 92-3 Rainbow Beach 342 cassowaries 390 Lakes Entrance 592 Bronte Beach 87, 94 safety 1051, 1057-8 red-tailed tropicbirds Mallacoota 597

Broome 1003 Scarborough Beach 932 Mary River 815  B  883 Bundegi Beach 981 Birdsville 452 Melbourne 477-9 Rocks 166 Bunker Bay 931-2 Birdsville Track 51, 795 Metung 591 Seven Mile Beach Burleigh Heads 316-18 birdwatching 166-7, 1041 Mildura 620, 621 (Kiama) 222 Byron Bay 185 Arnhem Highway 813 Mooloolaba 332 Seven Mile Beach Cable Beach 992, 999 (Lennox Head) 184 Bicheno 674 Narooma 232 Caloundra 328 Shelly Beach 97 Burnie 701 Nelson 565 Camp Cove 94, 93 Snelling Beach 757 Cairns 393, 396 Ningaloo Coast 973 Cape Tribulation 425 St Kilda Foreshore 477 Caranbirini Pemberton 943 Clovelly Beach 90 Conservation Perth 886 Store Beach 99 Reserve 846 177 Pine Creek 823 Surfers Paradise 311 Darwin 803 Coogee Beach 90 Port Douglas 419-21 Sydney 91-4 Kingscote 756 Coolangatta 319 Tamarama Beach Port Lincoln 782 Lord Howe Rottnest Island 915 Cooloola Coast 335 104, 93 Island 249-50 Strahan 707 Coolum 334 Torquay 548 Low Head (Tamar Cottesloe Beach 882 Trinity Beach 412-13 Valley) 689 Sydney 105-6 Cow Bay Beach 424 Wagga Beach 246 416 Victor Harbour 748 Darwin 802 Wattamolla Beach 217 Rockingham 918 Walpole 945 Dunk Island 391 Whale Beach 99 Birdwood 742 Whitsundays 370, 371 Ellis Beach 414 Whitsundays 371-4 Black Point 779 boat travel, see also boat tours & cruises Emu Beach 951 Wilsons Promontory Black Saturday 527, 1038 to/from Australia 1067 Frankland Islands 411 National Park 586 Blackall Range 337 within Australia 1069 Friendly Beaches 672 Wollongong City Beach Blackheath 149-50 218 Bondi 87, 90, 10, 92-3, Garie Beach 218 Blinman 790 Beaconsfield 688 103 Geelong 539 429 Beagle Bay 1001 Bondi to Coogee Clifftop Gulf St Vincent 746-7 Blowhole 663 Beauty Point 688 Walk 104 Hamilton Island 373 Blue Lake 775-6 Bedourie 452 Booderee National Park Magnetic Island 382 Blue Mountains 228 Beechworth 604-7 Mahon Pool 92, 91 142-50, 144 Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) beer 732, 1046, see also Main Beach 313-15 Blue Mountains National National Park 443 breweries Mandalay Beach 945 Park 150 books 1016 Bellarine Peninsula 545-7 Manly Beach 97 Boat Harbour Beach 701 Aboriginal writers 1034 Bellingen 173-6 McLean Beach 248 boat tours & cruises 403 history 1019, 1020, 1022, Bells Beach 549, Middleton Beach 951 541 Adelaide River 813-14 1024 Bells Line of Road 147 Mildura 619 Airlie Beach 367 Boreen Point 336 Mooloolaba 331-4 Albany 951 Borroloola 845-6 237-8 Ned’s Beach Brisbane 278 Boulia 451-2 Ben Lomond National (Lord Howe Cape Range National Park 691-2 Bourke 211 Island) 249 Park 985 Bowen 375 Bendigo 571-5, 573 Newcastle 159 Coral Bay 973-6 Bowral 238-9 Bennelong 1021 Nielsen Park 95 Darwin 802 Bradman, Donald 238, 719, Bermagui 234 Ninety Mile Beach D’Entrecasteaux National 1024, 1027 Berri 771 591 Park 943 Brae 554 Berrima 239 Noosa 323, 59 Echuca 625, 628 Brampton Island 374 Berry 224-5 North Beach (Lord Esperance 957 breweries 24 Berry Springs 816-17 Howe Island) 249 Fremantle 907 Black Hops Brewing 318 Beswick 843 North Beach Great Barrier Reef 397 Boag’s Brewery 680 (Wollongong) 218 Bicheno 673-5 Goolwa 749-50 Brouhaha Brewery 337 Ocean Beach 707 bicycle travel, see cycling 1084 breweries continued Broken River 376 Jatbula Trail 836-7 galleries 393 Burleigh Brewing Broome 17, 992-1001,996, Kalbarri National Park shopping 409 Company 318 999, 17 965-6 sights 392-3 Cascade Brewery 639 accommodation 998 Kangaroo Island tourist information 409 Catchment Brewing activities 993 Wilderness Trail 759 tours 397-9 Co 294 drinking & Karijini National Park travel to/from 409-10

INDEX INDEX 991 Coopers Brewery 719 entertainment 1000 travel within 410-11 Goodieson Brewery 744 Kata Tjuta 877 festivals & events 997 Cairns region 412 Granite Belt Katherine Gorge 836-7 food 998-1000 Caloundra 328-31 Brewery 308 Lamington National Park B-C shopping 1000  321-3 Camel Cup 855 Green Beacon sights 992-3 Brewing Co 296 Larapinta Trail 855 camel riding  tourist information 1000 Hunter Beer Co 152 Lurujarri Dreaming Alice Springs 853 tours 993-7 Kangaroo Island Trail 997 Broome 993-4, 17 travel to/from 1000-1 Brewery 755 Maria Island Walk 670 Uluru 872 travel within 1001-2 Margaret River 932, Moreton Island 306 Camp Cove 94, 93 Bruny Island 655-7 936, 939 Mt Jerusalem 699 Campbell Town 668 Buchan 593-4 Newstead Brewing Mt Kosciuszko 242 camping 24, 43, 1052-3 Buchan Caves 593-4 Co 296 Mt Sorrow Ridge Walk camps 1054 budget 23 Pagan Cider 658 427 Canberra 62, 254-65, Prancing Pony 742 buffaloes 823 Murray River 772 255, 258 Robe Town Brewery 773 Bunbury 926-9 Nourlangie 826-7 accommodation 252, Steam Exchange Bundaberg 344-6 Overland Track 710 260-1 Brewery 749 Bungle Bungle Range Pemberton 943 activities 257 1013-14 Two Metre Tall 653-4 Porongurup National children, travel with 264 XXXX 278 bungy jumping 396 Park 953 climate 252 Bribie Island 327-8 Burke & Wills Camp 119 safety 54-5 drinking & nightlife 442 bridge climbing South Coast Track 263-4 Brisbane 277 Burke, Robert O’Hara 1022 (Tasmania) 661 entertainment 264 Sydney 106 Burketown 442-3 South Coast Walk festivals & events 259 Bridgetown 942 Burleigh Heads 317, 316-18 (Victoria) 549 food 252, 261-3 Bright 613-14 Burnie 700-2 Southwest National medical services 264 Park 713 Brisbane 270-303, 272-3, bus tours 1070 shopping 264 280-1, 286, 290, 2, 35 bus travel 1069-70, 1070 Stirling Range National sights 254-7 Park 955 accommodation bush tucker 1046 tourist information 264 Tarkine Wilderness 705 267, 281-4 bushfires 527, 1038, 1051 tours 257 Tasmanian Trail 635 activities 277-8 bushwalking 53-5, see also travel to/from 265 walking Ubirr 824-5 art galleries 276 travel within 265 Alice Springs 853, 854 Uluru 876-7 courses 278 canoeing, see kayaking & drinking & nightlife Bay of Fires Lodge Wilsons Promontory canoeing Walk 676 National Park 589 293-7 canopy activities best trails 55 Wineglass Bay Walk 673 entertainment 297-9 Daintree, the 427 Bibbulmun Track 951 business hours 23, 1060 festivals & events 278-81 Finch Hatton Gorge 376 Blue Mountains 148 Busselton 929-30 food 267, 284-93 Hollybank Treetops LGBTIQ travellers 294 Cape to Cape Track 932 Butterfly Bay 371 Adventure 689 shopping 299-301 Cape Tribulation 427 Byfield 359 Otways 557 sights 270-7 Cradle Mountain 710 Byron Bay 14, 185-91, Tamborine Moutain 321 , tourist information 301 Cradle Valley 709-10 186-7 14 Tarkine Wilderness 705 tours 278 Cynthia Bay 710 Valley of the Giants travel to/from 301-2 Denmark 946 C 944-5 travel within 302-3 environmental issues 54 Cairns 392-411, 394-5, Cape Bridgewater 564 Brisbane Powerhouse Flinders Island 678 400-1, 402 Cape Leveque 1002-3 275, 298 Flinders Ranges National accommodation 405-6 Cape Naturaliste 931-2 Broadbeach 315-16 Park 789 activities 395-6 Cape Nelson Lighthouse Broken Hill 18, 211-15, Fraser Island 348 drinking & nightlife 566 213, 18 Freycinet Experience 408-9 Cape Otway 556-7, 541 Walk 672 entertainment 409 Cape Range National Park Great Ocean Walk 556 festivals & events 405 984-5 Map Pages 000 Great South West Walk food 406-8 Cape Tribulation 398, Photo Pages 000 565 425-9, 426 1085 Cape York Peninsula 431-9, Chinatowns 1024 Coral Bay 973-6 entertainment 809 432-3 Adelaide 728 coral spawning 397 festivals & events 803 Capricorn Caves 357 Brisbane 275 Corinna 705 food 807-9 Capricorn Coast 351-62, Broome 997, 998 costs 23 history 801 352-3 Melbourne 460-1, 481 courses, see also cooking internet access 810 Capricorn hinterland 361-2 Sydney 77, 107, 114, 115 courses medical services 810

car travel 1070-7, 1071, churches & cathedrals diving 43, 398 safety 810 INDEX 1072, 1073 Cathedral of St Frances Cow Bay 424-5 shopping 809-12 automobile clubs 1071 Xavier Church 959 Cowaramup 935-7 sights 797-802 buying a car 1074-7 Catholic Church of St Cowes 537-8 tourist information 811  C-D environmental issues Peter & St Paul 792 Cowra 206-7 tours 802-3  1071-2 Sacred Heart Cathedral Cradle Mountain-Lake St travel to/from 811 572 hire 1073-4 Clair National Park 17, travel within 812 St John’s Cathedral 271 709-12, insurance 1074 17 Dawes, William 1019 St Patrick’s Cathedral Craig’s Hut 599 outback, the 50 Daydream Island 373 465 Crater Lakes National safety 1072-3 Daylesford 528-30 St Paul’s Cathedral 457 Park 418 cassowaries 390 debit cards 1059 Churchill Island 536 credit cards 1059 carbon offset 1074 Deepwater National Park Clare 766-7 Crescent Head 171 Cardwell 386 355 Clare Valley 764-7, cricket 238, 719, 1027, Carnarvon 970-1 26 Deloraine 695-8 climate 22, 28-31, 44-5, 1047-8 Carnarvon Gorge 361-2 dengue fever 1051 1035, see also crocodiles 318, 367, 411, Carpentaria 844-5 individual locations 414, 425, 441, 813, 814, Denham 967-9 Castlemaine 576-8 climbing, see rock climbing 823, 1050 Deniliquin 248-9 cathedrals, see churches & & abseiling Crowdy Head 167 Denmark 946-9 cathedrals Cloncurry 444 Croydon 440 Derby (Tasmania) 677-8 Catseye Beach 371 clownfish 400 cruises, see boat tours & Derby (WA) 1003-5 caves Cobourg Peninsula 830-1 cruises Devil’s Kitchen 663 Buchan Caves 593-4 Cockatoo Island 90 Cumberland Islands 374-5 Devil’s Marbles 849 Capricorn Caves 357 Cockle Creek 661 currency 1059 Devonian Reef National Cave Gardens 776 Coen 435 Currumbin 318-19 Parks 1005-6 Cutta Cutta Caves customs regulations 1055 Devonport 692-4 Nature Park 837 coffee 1045-6 cycling 55, 1068-9 diarrhoea 1058 Jenolan Caves 152 Coffin Bay 783 Byron Bay 186 didgeridoos 910, 1033, 861 Hastings Caves & Coffs Harbour 177-80, 178 Merimbula 235 dingoes 350, 823, 864 Thermal Springs 660 Coles Bay 672-3 outback, the 46 Dinner Plain 617-19 Mimbi Caves 1009 conservation groups 1039 Sydney 100, 106 Dinosaur Trail 448 Naracoorte Caves Coober Pedy 792-4, 793 disabilities, travellers with National Park 775 Cooinda 827-8 Yamba 182 1063 Ngilgi Cave 933, 4 Cook, Captain James 328, cyclones 368, 1061 discount cards 1055 Remarkable Cave 665 351, 429, 430, 1019 Cygnet 657-8 distilleries Yarrangobilly cooking courses Bundaberg Rum Caves 242 Angaston 763 D Distillery 345 Ceduna 784-5 Bright 613 D’Aguilar National Park Hellyers Road Distillery cell phones 22, 1062 Brisbane 278 271, 58 700-1 Central Tilba 233 Margaret River 935, 936 Daintree, the 15, 424-9, Kangaroo Island Spirits Cervantes 923-4 Melbourne 473, 476, 481 15, 58 755-6 Chalkies Beach 371 Sydney 84, 107 Daly River 819-20 Nant Distillery 666-7 Charleville 450-1 Tasmania 654, 691 Daly Waters 846-7 Redlands Distillery 666 Charters Towers 384, 444 Cooktown 429-31 Dampier 987-8 Sullivans Cove Whisky Childers 344 Coolangatta 319-20 Dampier Peninsula 1001-3 652 children, travel with 1054-5 Cooloola Coast 335-7 Dandenongs 522-3 Twenty Third Street Adelaide 723 Coolum 334-5 dangers, see safety Distillery 771-2 Canberra 264 Cooma 240-1 Darwin 45-6, 797-812, diving & snorkelling 56, Fremantle 906 Coonabarabran 200-1 800, 804-5 400, 883 Hobart 641 Coonawarra Wine Region accommodation 803-7 Adelaide 722 Perth 886 777-8 activities 802 Broome 993 Sydney 104 Copley 790-1 climate 796 Broughton Island 166 Chiltern 608-9 coral 982 drinking & nightlife 809 Byron Bay 186-7 1086 diving & snorkelling Kangaroo Island 750, car travel 1071 Darwin Fringe Festival 803 continued 753, 756 carbon offset 1074 Deniliquin Ute Cairns 411 Mandurah 919 Great Barrier Reef 40, Muster 248 Cape Conran Coastal Merimbula 235 1036 ‘Ekka’ Royal Queensland Park 596 Monkey Mia 969 Esperance 956-8 Show 279 Coffs Harbour 179 Moreton Island 306 Eumundi 336 Enlighten 259

INDEX INDEX courses 43, 398 Mornington Peninsula Eureka Stockade 570, Fremantle Festival 907 Esperance 957 531 1023-4 Kings Park Festival 887 Exmouth 978-9 Rockingham 918 Eurimbula National Melbourne International Park 355 Comedy Festival 481 D-F Flinders Island 678-9 Dorrigo 176-7  Frankland Islands 411 176 Eurobodalla Coast 229-33 MONA FOMA 643  Geographe Bay 931 Dover 660 Evandale 691 National Multicultural Geraldton 961 Dreaming 1034 events, see festivals & Festival 259 Great Barrier Reef 11, driving, see car travel events New Year’s Eve 107 40-3, 397, 399-404, driving licences 1071 Ewaninga 866 Oktoberfest 279 427, 11, 41, 403 driving tours exchange rates 23 Ord Valley Muster 1012 Heron Island 356 Alice Springs 854 Exmouth 976-80, 977 Perth International Arts Festival 886-7 Houtman Abrolhos Bathurst to Gulgong Eyre Peninsula 781-5 Islands 963 Port Douglas Carnivale 203, 203 421 Jervis Bay 226-7 Caloundra 329 Jurien Bay 925 F Red Earth Arts Festival Coober Pedy 792-3 Falls Creek 616-17 986 King Island 704 Daintree, the 427 farmstays 1053 Rottofest 916 Lady Elliot Island 355 Esperance 957 Ferris wheels 275 Shinju Matsuri Festival of Magnetic Island 383 Great Northern Highway festivals & events 28-31, the Pearl 997 Maria Island National 1009 1056, see also individ- South Australian Wooden Park 670 Kimberley, the 1006 ual locations, Aborig- Boat Festival 750 Merimbula 235 Mungo Track 216 inal cultural festivals, 107 Mooloolaba 331 film festivals, food & Noosa 323-4 Townsville 500 379 Narooma 232 wine festivals, LGBTIQ Dubbo 207-8 Tunarama Festival 783 Ningaloo Coast 973-4, festivals, literary fes- Dudley Peninsula 754-5 Vesak Festival of Light 975-6 tivals, music festivals, Dunalley 662 sporting events 572-3 Ningaloo Marine Whale Festival 236 Park 983-4 Duncan Road 1011 Adelaide Cabaret Festival 723 White Night Ballarat 567 North Stradbroke Dunk Island 391 Island 304 Dunkeld 582 723 Yulefest 144 Perth 883 Dunsborough 930-1 723 film 1034, 1016 Port Douglas 419, 420 Duranbah 317 Alice Desert Festival 855 film festivals Portsea 531 DVDs 1054 Alice Springs Beanie Brisbane Asia Pacific Festival 854 Film Festival 281 Queenscliff 545-6 Dwellingup 920 107 CinéfestOZ 929 Rainbow Beach 342 Bleach Festival 311 Queer Film Festival 294 Rockingham 918 E Blessing of the Fleet 907 107 Rottnest Island 913 Eaglehawk Neck 662-4 Bowral Tulip Time 107 Sorrento 531 Echuca 624-8, 626 Festival 239 film locations Sydney 100 economy 1017 Brisbane Comedy Australia 375 Whitsundays 370-1 Eden 236-7 Festival 279 Crocodile Dundee 447 wrecks 383 Einasleigh 440 Brisbane Festival 279 Saving Mr Banks 343 dolphins 57, 545 electricity 1056 Brisbane Finch Hatton Gorge 376 dolphin-watching 57 Elizabeth Quay 24 Festival 278-9 Finke Gorge National Adelaide 722, 733 Canberra Balloon Ellery Creek Big Hole 864 Park 866 Bellarine Peninsula 545 Spectacular 259 Ellis Beach 414 Finke Track 52 Bunbury 926 emergencies 23 Chinese New Year (Melbourne) 481 Fish Creek 584-6 Eden 236 Emily Gap 863 Chinese New Year fishing 56-7 Esperence 957 encephalitis 1051 (Sydney) 107 Borroloola 845 Hervey Bay 338 Endeavour 1019 Coolangatta Gold 319 Cairns 405 Jervis Bay 227 environment 1031-2, Dark MOFO 643 Cape York Peninsula 1035-42 Darwin Aboriginal Art 437, 438 environmental issues Fair 803 Cobourg Peninsula 831 1038-40 Map Pages 000 Darwin Festival 803 Daly River 820 bushwalking 54 Photo Pages 000 1087 Denamrk 946 Melbourne Food & parks 906-7 theme parks 315 Exmouth 977 Wine Festival 481 shopping 910-11 travel to/from 309 Flinders Island 679 Mudgee Wine Festival sights 903, 905-6 travel within 309-10 Jurien Bay 925 209 tourist information 911 Gold Coast hinterland Kangaroo Island 752 Noosa Food & Wine 324 tours 907 320-3 Karumba 441, 441-2 Orange Wine Festival travel to/from 911 goldfields 566-82

204 INDEX King Island 704 travel within 911 golfing Oysterfest 784 Lake Tinaroo 418 Freycinet National Park Anglesea 550 Riverland Wine & Food 672-3 Oatlands 667 Merimbula 235 Festival 771 fuel 1072 Port Douglas 419  F-G St Helens 675 Sawtell Chilli Festival 179 fur seals 564 Yorkeys Knob 411  Warrnambool 560 Sea & Vines Festival 745 Weipa 436 Weipa 436 Taste of Tasmania 642 GOMA 271, 274 Fitzgerald River National Tastes of Rutherglen 609 G Park 952, 956 Goolwa 749-50 723 Gabba, the 298 Fitzroy Crossing 1009-10 gorges UnWINEd 247 Gabo Island 596 Fitzroy Falls 223 galleries, see art galleries Barramundi Gorge Winery Walkabout (Maguk) 828 Fitzroy Island 411 Weekend 609 gardens, see parks & Carnarvon Gorge 361 Flannery, Tim 1035 Winter Reds 738 gardens Cataract Gorge 680 Fleurieu Peninsula 743-50, food & wine tours Gariwerd 578-82, 579 743 Charles Knife Canyon Adelaide 715 Gascoyne Coast 970-2 Flinders Chase National 985 Barossa Valley 760 gay travellers 1056 Park 758-9 Dales Gorge 990 Clare Valley 764 Brisbane 294 Flinders Island 678-9 Finch Hatton Gorge 376 Denmark 947 Melbourne 510 Flinders Ranges 785-91, 786 Geikie Gorge 1005 Hunter Valley 154 Perth 897 Flinders Ranges National Hamersley Gorge 990 Margaret River wine Sydney 132 Park 788-90, 26 Kalbarri 966 region 932 Geelong 538-45, flora 925, 1038 542 Karijini National Park McLaren Vale 744-5 Geeveston 659-60 floral emblems 1037 990-1 Mudgee 209 gem fields 361 food 59, 1043-6, see also Katherine Gorge 836-8 individual locations Orange 204 Geographe Bay 926-32 MacDonnell Ranges cooking courses, food Perth 886 geology 1036 862-3, 864-5 & wine festivals, food & Rutherglen 609 George Town (Tasmania) Mandu Mandu Gorge wine tours Tamar Valley 686 688-9 985 budgeting 1056 football Georgetown (Queensland) Mossman Gorge 424 bush tucker 1046 Australian Rules 1047, 31 440 Palm Valley 866 children, eating with soccer 1048 Geraldton 959-62, 960 Purnululu National Park 1055 women’s 1047 Ghan, the 21, 24, 21 1014 magazines 1046 Forrest 555 ghost tours Umbrawarra Gorge 820 markets 289 Forster 167 Adelaide 722-3 Windjana Gorge 1005-6 trucks 289 Fowlers Bay 785 Beechworth 605-6 Yardie Creek Gorge985 venues 1043-6 Frankland Islands 411 Brisbane 278 150 food & wine festivals Franklin-Gordon Wild Geelong 543-4 Grafton 180-1 A Taste of Broome 997 Rivers National Park Hobart 636 Grampians, the 578-82, Barossa Gourmet 708-9 Melbourne 543 579 Weekend 760 Fraser Coast 337-51 Port Arthur 665 Granite Belt 308-9 Barossa Vintage Fraser Island 21, 338, 346- Sydney 106 Great Australian Bight 785 Festival 760 51, 347, 21 Walhalla 590 Great Barrier Reef 11, 37- Canberra District Wine Fremantle 903-11, 904, 43, 377, 399-404, 1036, Week 266 Ghunmarn Culture Centre 913 24, 843 39, 11, 41, 399-404 Clare Valley Gourmet accommodation 907-8 access towns 38 Weekend 764 giardiasis 1051 beaches 906-7 camping 43 Crush 738 Gibb River Road 1006-8 children, travel with 906 islands 38-40 Esk BeerFest 683 Gippsland 584-98, 584-5 drinking & nightlife responsible tourism 40 Feast of the Senses 392 Gippsland Lakes 591-3 909-10 tours 397 F.O.O.D Week 204 Gladstone 355 entertainment 910 travel seasons 37 Good Food Month 107 Glass House Mountains 328 festivals & events 907 websites 38 Hobart BeerFest 643 Glen Helen Gorge 864 food 908-9 Great Keppel Island 360-1 Margaret River Gourmet Gold Coast 309-21, 310 internet access 911 Great Northern Highway Escape 933 surfing spots 317 itineraries 883 1008-11 1088 Great Ocean Road 13, Battery Point (Hobart) Hobart 636-52, 638, Hyde Park 77 538-66, 538, 540-1 637-9 642-3 Hyden 920-1 Great Stupa of Universal Beechworth Asylum 605 accommodation 629, hypothermia 1051 Compassion 572 Brickendon 690 643-6 Green Island 411 Busselton Jetty 929 activities 640 Greenmount 317 Cascades Female children, travel with 641 I Ikara 788, 789 INDEX INDEX Griffith 247-8 Factory Historic Site climate 629 Imintji 1006-7 Gulf Savannah 439-43 639 drinking & nightlife Ingham 385-6 Gulliver’s Travels 785 Central Deborah 648-50 Goldmine 572 Innisfail 391-2

G-K Gumeracha 741-2 emergencies 651  Coal Mines Historic insurance Gunbalanya 830 entertainment 650 Site 663 car 1074  Gundagai 244 festivals & events 641-3 Cooks’ Cottage 466-8 health 1056, 1058 Gunn, Jeannie 842 food 629, 646-8 Corroboree Rock travel 1058 Gympie 344 internet access 651 Conservation Reserve internet access 1058 863 itineraries 637 medical services 651 internet resources, Darlington 670 see websites H money 651 Hahndorf 738-40 Flagstaff Hill Maritime islands 25 Village 560 postal services 651 Halls Creek 1010-11 itineraries 32-6, 32, 33, Fort Queenscliff 545 shopping 650-1 Halls Gap 578-82 34, 36 sights 636-40 Hamilton Island 373-4 Heritage Blinman Mine 790 tourist information 651 Hanging Rock 530 Hermannsburg Mission tours 640-1 J Harrington 167 865 travel to/from 651-2 Jabiru 825-6 Hastings Caves 660 Myilly Point Heritage travel within 652 James Price Point 1003 Precinct 797 Jan Juc 549 171-2 holiday parks 1052-3 Ngilgi Cave 933 jellyfish 1050 Hawker 788 holidays 1060-1 Old Beechworth Gaol Jenolan Caves 152 151 Hook Island 372-3 605 Jervis Bay 226-7 Hayman Island 374 horizontal waterfalls 1004 461 Jindabyne 241 Head of Bight 785 Horn Island 438-9 Old Mildura Homestead Judbarra 841 Healesville 524-6 619 horse riding Junee 246 health 1056-8, see also Old Psyche Bend Pump Coffs Harbour 178 safety Station 619 Daintree, the 428 Jurien Bay 924-6 heat exhaustion 1057 Penitentiary Chapel Hervey Bay 339 heatstroke 1057 Historic Site 636 Kiewa Valley 615 K Henbury Meteorite Craters Port Arthur Historic Site Kununurra 1011 Kakadu National Park 15, 867 664-5 Mansfield 599 45-6, 821-8, 822, 15 Henley-on-Todd Regatta 855 Quod 912 Snowy Mountains 240 Kalbarri 962-5, 964 hepatitis C 1051 Ross Female Factory 667 horses, wild 823 Kalbarri National Park 24, Hepburn Springs 528-30 Salamanca Place 636 Horseshoe Bay 748 965-6 Hermannsburg 865-6 566 Horsham 582 Kalumburu 1008 Heron Island 356 Victoria Hills Historic hostels 1053-4 Kanangra-Boyd National Mining Site 572 Hervey Bay 337-42, hot-air ballooning Park 150 338-9, 57 Woolmers Estate 690 Brisbane 277-8 Kangaroo Island 750-9, 751 High Country 599-619, WWII Flying Boat Wrecks Byron Bay 186 Kangaroo Valley 222-3 993 602-3 Cairns 397, 398 kangaroos 1036, 15 Wybalenna Historic hiking, see bushwalking Canberra 257, 259 Karijini National Park Site 678 Hinchinbrook Island 386 Hunter Valley 152 989-92, 990 history 1018-30 historic sites Surfers Paradise 311 Karratha 986-7 Aboriginal Australians Abbotsford Covent 468 Karumba 441-2 632-3, 933, 1018-19, Yarra Valley 523-4 Aboriginal Tent Embassy 1021, 1026, 1030 hotels 1054 Kata Tjuta 877, 839, 877, 257 convict period 1020-3 houseboats 769 838 Arltunga Historical Eureka Stockade 570, Houtman Abrolhos Islands Katherine 45-6, 832-6, 833 Reserve 862 1023-4 963 Katherine Gorge 836-40 Battery Hill (Port Fairy) federation 1025 humpback whales 29, 57, Katoomba 146-9 562 gold rush 1023-4 340, 984, 1041, 57 kayaking & canoeing WWI 1025-6 Hunter Valley 151-7, 153 Ballina 183 WWII 1027-8 Huonville 658-9 Batemans Bay 230 Map Pages 000 hitching 1077 Hutt Lagoon 962 Berri 771 Photo Pages 000 1089 Blackwood River 941 L 481 Man from Snowy River, Byron Bay 186 Lady Elliot Island 355-6 Queer Film Festival 294 the 599 Caloundra 329 Lake Mountain 526-7 Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mandurah 918-20 Daintree, the 427 lakes Mardi Gras 107, 132 Manjimup 942-3 Eden 236 Blue Lake (Kaboora) 303 Tropical Fruits 193 Manly 97-9, 105 Exmouth 979 Fern Pool 990 LGBTIQ travellers 1056 Manly Scenic Walkway 104 Freycinet Lake Burley Griffin 257 Brisbane 294 Mannum 768 INDEX Peninsula 672 Lake Cathie 167 Melbourne 510 Mansfield 599-600 Goolwa 749 Lake Cooroibah 335-6 Perth 897 maps 1058 Gulf St Vincent 747 Lake Cootharaba 336-7 Sydney 130 Marble Bar 987  K-M Hobart 640 Lightning Ridge 201 Mareeba 416

 Lake Macquarie 150 Jervis Bay 226 Lake Mungo 216 Limestone Coast 772-8 Margaret River 20, 937-9, Kangaroo Valley 223 Lake Pedder 712-13 Lindeman Island 374 934, 938, 20 Magnetic Island 383 Lake Tinaroo 418 Lismore 193-4 Maria Island National Park 668-70 Main Beach 314 Lake Wendouree 567 818-19 markets Melbourne 477-9 Lakes Entrance 592-3 literary festivals Adelaide Farmers Market Merimbula 235 Lake Tinaroo 418 Banjo Patterson Poetry 735 Mission Beach 388 Lamington National Park Festival 204 Atherton Tablelands 416 Morning 321 Bellingen Readers & Bangalow Farmers Peninsula 531 Lancelin 923 Writers Festival 174 Market 192 Murray River 620, Langford Island 371 621, 772 Brisbane Writers Festival Barossa Farmers Market languages 1018 764 Nelson 565 279 Larapinta Trail 855 Bellingen Community Ningaloo Marine Byron Bay Writers’ Larrimah 848 Market 176 Park 984 Festival 187 Lasseter Highway 52, Bellingen Growers’ North Stradbroke Corrugated Lines 997 868-70 Market 175-6 Island 304 Sydney Writers’ Festi- Bondi Markets 138 Paringa 772 Launceston 679-86, 681, val 107 682 Brisbane 289, 299, Pemberton 943 Little Desert National Park accommodation 683-4 583-4 300, 301 Port Stephens 165 activities 680 Lizard Island 428 Byron Bay Artisan Tasman Peninsula 66 drinking & nightlife 685 Lobethal 742 Market 191 Sydney 100-2 entertainment 685 lodges 1054 Byron Farmers’ Market Whitsundays 371 191 festivals & events 683 Lombadina 1002 Yamba 182 Camberwell Market 512 food 684-5 Long Island 371-2 Kennett River 554 Carriageworks Farmers medical services 685 Longford 690-1 Keswick Island 374 Market 137 shopping 685 Longreach 449-50 Kiama 221-2 Central Market 715 sights 680 Lord Howe Island 249-51 Kiewa Valley 614-15 Darwin 810 tourist information 686 Lorne 552-3 Kimberley School of the Eumundi Markets 336 tours 680-3 Low Head 689 Air 1004 Farm Gate Market 646 travel to/from 686 Loxton 770-1 Kimberley, the 17, 46, Fremantle 906 travel within 686 Luhrmann, Baz 375 992-1014, 994-5 Glebe Markets 137-8 Laura 435 Luna Park (Melbourne) 477 King Island 703-4 Gilles Street Market King Valley 601-4 lava tubes 439 Luna Park (Sydney) 96 735 Kings Canyon 870-1, legal matters 1058 Gourmet Farmers Market 871, 7 Legana 687-8 M 315 Kingscote 755-6 Leigh Creek 790-1 Macassans 1020 Hobart Twilight Market Kings Cross 84-5, 88-9 Lennox Head 184 MacDonnell Ranges 862-6, 651 Kirra 317 lesbian travellers 1056 839 Kangaroo Island Farmers Market 754 koalas 1036-7, 541 Brisbane 294 Macedon Ranges 530 Kuranda 415 Koonwarra 584-6 Melbourne 510 Mackay 362-5, 364 Mackay 365 Perth 897 Magnetic Island 382-5 Margaret River 938-9 241-4 Sydney 132 Main Beach 313-15 Mission Beach 391 Kununurra 1008, 1011-13 Leura 146 Malanda 417 Newcastle City Farmers Kuranda 414-16 LGBTIQ festivals 1056 Maldon 580 & Makers Market 163 Ku-ring-gai Chase National Maleny 337 Park 102 279 Old Bus Depot Markets Mallacoota 596-8 264 Kwongan wildflowers 925 724 Mallee, the 625 Paddington Markets 137 Kyneton 575-6 Melt 294 mammals 1036-7 1090 markets continued tourist information 519 motorcycle travel, see car Australian Fossil & Paddy’s Markets 138 tours 480 travel Mineral Museum 202 Perth 892 travel to/from 519-20 mountain biking 55 Australian Museum 85 Prahran Market 476 travel within 520-1 Adelaide Hills 722 Australian National Maritime Museum 77 walking tours 467, 467 Alice Springs 854 Australian National 461 481 Bright 613

INDEX INDEX Surfing Museum 548 Riverland Farmers memorials & monuments Byron Bay 187 Market 771 Australian Stockman’s Anzac Memorial 77 Derby 677 Rocks Markets, the 138 Hall of Fame & Australian War Falls Creek 616 Outback Heritage M Rose Street Artists’ Memorial 254 Flinders Ranges 785, 787 Centre 449  Market 516  Big Rocking Horse 742 Forrest 555 Back O’ Bourke Rusty’s Markets 406 Desert Mounted Corps Kiewa Valley 615 Exhibition Centre 211 Salamanca Market 651 Memorial 949 Kosciuszko National Park Bass & Flinders Centre South Melbourne Market Dog on the Tuckerbox 242, 243 689 473 244 Mansfield 599 Bass Strait Maritime St Andrews Community HMAS Sydney II Margaret River 940 Centre 692-3 Market 528 Memorial 959 Mt Beauty 615 Bay Discovery Centre 719 St Kilda Esplanade Line of Lode Miners Noosa 324 Beaconsfield Mine & Market Memorial 212 Heritage Centre 688 Stirling Markets 741 Tasmania 635, 640, 677, POW Campsite & Guard 681, 689 Bicheno Motorcycle Sydney Fish Market Tower 207 Mount Gambier 775-6 Museum 674 82, 84 Mt Barke 742-3 Big Golden Guitar 196 Tablelands 416 (Brisbane) 271 Mt Beauty 614-15 Bligh Museum of Pacific Townsville 381 Shrine of Remembrance Exploration 655-6 Mt Buffalo 612-13 Village Markets 316 (Melbourne) 475-6 Borroloola Museum 845 Mt Buller 600-1 Willunga Farmers Market Meningie 774-5 Broome Museum 992 Mt Bundy Station 820 746 meningococcal disease Burke Museum 605 1051 Mt Connor 869-70 Maroochydore 331-4 Burnie Regional Museum Mt Coot-tha 275-6 Marrawah 703 Mereenie Loop Road 47, 700 51, 865 Mt Elizabeth Station Marree 795 Caboolture Warplane 1007-8 Mary Poppins 344 Merimbula 234-6 Museum 328 Mt Field National Maryborough 343-4 Metung 591-2 Carnarvon Space & Park 653-5 Marysville 526-7 migration 1025 Technology Museum Mt Hotham 617-19 Mataranka 841-3 Milawa Gourmet Region 970 604 Mt Isa 444-7, 446 Chiltern Athenaeum 608 McLaren Vale 743-5, 60-1 Mildura 619-24, Mt Kosciuszko 242 measures 1054 623 Cobb & Co Museum Millaa Millaa 417 Mt Lofty 740 306-7 Melbourne 13, 456-521, Millthorpe 206 Mt Spec 387 Country Music Hall of 458-9, 462-3, 470, Mt Surprise 439 Fame 196 472, 474, 13, 58-9, mining 1023-4 Deloraine Museum 695 514, 515 min-min lights 451 Mt Wellington 639, 640 accommodation 453, Mintaro 765-6 Mudgee 209-11 Discovery Bay 953 481-6 Mittagong 238-9 Mungo National Park East Coast Heritage Museum 671 activities 477-80 mobile phones 22, 1062 215-17, 620 Echuca Historical climate 453 Mogo 231 Murray Bridge 767 Museum 625 drinking & nightlife Mole Creek 698-9 Murray River 619-28, Fraser Coast Discovery 500-8 Mollymook 228-9 767-72, 620-1 museums 16, see also art Sphere 337 entertainment 508-11 MONA 12, 639-40, 12 galleries Furneaux Museum 678 food 453, 486-500 money 22, 23, 1059-60 Abbey Museum 327 Golden Dragon Museum internet access 519 Monkey Mia 969-70 & Gardens 571 itineraries 456 Albany Heritage Park Mooloolaba 331-4 949 Great Aussie Beer Shed LGBTIQ travellers 510 Moonta 779 Albany Residency 625 medical services 519 Moreton Island 305-6 Museum 950 Great Ocean Road Story postal services 519 Mornington Peninsula Albury Library Museum 552 safety 519 530-4 245 Gympie Gold Mining & shopping 511-18 Moruya 231 Apple Shed 658 Historical Museum 344 sights 456-77 Mossman 424 Australian Age of Dino- Hahndorf Academy Mossman Gorge 424 saurs Museum 448 739-40 motels 1054 Australian Centre for the Map Pages 000 Moving Image 457 Hellenic Museum 461-4 Photo Pages 000 1091 Hinkler Hall of Aviation National Motor Museum Royal Flying Doctor Bello Winter Music 174 345 742 Service (Alice Springs) Big Pineapple Music Hyde Park Barracks National Motor Racing 851 Festival 332 Museum 75 Museum 202 Royal Flying Doctor Bigsound Festival 279 Immigration Museum 464 National Museum of Service (Broken Byron Bay Bluesfest 187 Hill) 212 International Cricket Hall Australia 257, 16 Cairns Ukulele Royal Flying Doctor of Fame 238 National Wool Museum Festival 405 INDEX James Cook Museum 429 539 Service (Darwin) 24, 800 Caloundra Music Jewish Holocaust Centre Ned Kelly Vault 605 Festival 329 Science Centre & Plane- 477 Never Never Museum 842 Canberra International tarium 219-20  M-N Jewish Museum of New Regional Music Festival 259 Scitech 886

 Australia 477 Art Museum 198 CMC Rocks Queensland Shark Bay World Herit- Kiewa Valley Historical New Norcia Museum & 279 age Discovery Centre Museum 614-15 Art Gallery 922 967-8 Dark MOFO 643 Killer Whale Newcastle Maritime Snowy Hydro Discovery Desert Song Festival 855 Museum 236 Museum 158 Centre 240 552, 643 King Island Museum 703 Newcastle Museum 158 South Australian Mari- Fleurieu Folk Festival 746 Kronosaurus Korner 444 Nicholson Museum 97 time Museum 719 Gympie Music Muster 344 Lord Howe Island Ningaloo Centre 977 South Australian Hats Off to Country 197 Museum 249 North Stradbroke Island Museum 715 Katherine Country Music Low Head Maritime Historical Museum South Australian Whale Muster 834 Museum 689 303-4 Centre 747 Laneway 907 Makers’ Workshop 700 Old Castlemaine Gaol 577 St Helens History Room Maroochy Music & Visual Mannum Dock Museum Old Dubbo Gaol 208 675 Arts Festival 332 of River History 768 Old Timers Mine 792 Susannah Place Museum MONA FOMA 643 Maritime Museum (Port Old Treasury Building 75 National Folk Festival 259 Macquarie) 168 457-628 Sydney Jewish Museum Park Sounds 279-81 Maritime Museum Outback at Isa 445 86-7 (Townsville) 378-9 Port Fairy Folk Festival Phoenix Museum 526 Tasmanian Museum & Mary MacKillop 562 Pioneer Village Museum Art Gallery 637 Interpretive Centre Queenscliff Music 222 Tin Centre 677 777 Festival 546 Port Fairy History Centre Torres Strait Heritage Mawson’s Huts Replica Queensland Music 562 Museum 438 Museum 636 Festival 279 Trial Bay Gaol 172 469 Rottofest 916 Historical Museum 168 Umoona Opal Mine & Moonta Mines Museum South Australian Country Port of Echuca Discovery Museum 792 779 Music Festival 769 Centre 625 Walhalla Historical Museo Italiano 469 Southbound 929 Post & Telegraph Office Museum 590 Museum & Art Gallery of Museum 590 Wallaroo Heritage & the Northern Territory 187 Portland Maritime Dis- Nautical Museum 779 801 St Jerome’s Laneway covery Centre 564 West Coast Reflections Museum of Australian Festival (Melbourne) Powerhouse Museum 97 707 Democracy (Canberra) 480-1 256 Qantas Founders Out- Western Australian St Jerome’s Laneway back Museum 449 Museum – Albany 950 Museum of Australian Festival (Sydney) 107 Democracy at Eureka Queen Victoria Museum Western Australian Tamworth Country Music (Ballarat) 566-7 680 Museum – Geraldton Festival 196-7 959 Museum of Brisbane 270 Queenscliff Maritime WOMADelaide 723 Museum 545 Western Australian Woodford Folk Festival Museum of Central Museum – Maritime Australia 851-2 Queensland Air Museum 330 329 905 Museum of Sydney 76 National Park Queensland Maritime Western Australian Museum of the 166-8 Museum 275 Museum – Shipwreck 246 Myella 358 Queensland Museum & Galleries 905 Museum of Tropical Mystery Bay 233 Sciencentre 274 Wooden Boat Centre 658 Queensland 377 Questacon 257 music festivals National Anzac Centre Agnes & Roots 949 RFDS Visitor Centre 208 N Festival 353 Nambucca Heads 172-3 National Capital Exhibi- Rocks Discovery Museum 71 Airlie Beach Music Nannup 941 tion 257 Festival 367 National Holden Museum Rocky’s Hall of Fame Pio- Naracoorte Caves National neers Museum 769 Australian Festival of Park 775 625 Chamber Music 379 Rottnest Museums 912 Narooma 231-3 1092 Nathan River Road 51 Coffin Bay National Grampians National MacDonnell Ranges 862-3 National Gallery of Park 783 Park 578 Maria Island National Australia 254 Conway National Park Great Sandy National Park 668-70 National Library of 375 Park 335-7 Mary River National Australia 256 Coorong National Park Gregory National Park Park 817 National Museum of 774-5 841 Millstream Chichester

INDEX INDEX Australia 257, 16 Cradle Mountain-Lake St Gundabooka National National Park 989 national parks & nature Clair National Park 17, Park 211 Minnamurra Rainforest reserves 25-6, 1040-1 709-12, 17 Guy Fawkes River Centre 221 Alexander Morrison Crater Lakes National National Park 175 Mirima National Park N 

National Park 925 Park 418 Hartz Mountains 1011  Badgingarra National Croajingolong National National Park 659 Mitchell River National Park 925 Park 598 Hat Head National Park Park 1009 Bald Rock National Cutta Cutta Caves 171-2 Mole Creek Karst Park 199 Nature Park 837 Hinchinbrook Island 386 National Park 698 Ben Boyd National Park D’Aguilar National Innes National Park Montague Island 237-8 Park 271 780-1 (Baranguba) 231-2 Ben Lomond National Iron Range National Moreton Island National Park 691-2 15, 424-9, 15, 58 Park 437 Park & Recreation Berry Springs Nature Dampier Archipelago 987 Kakadu National Park 15, Area 306-5 Park 817 Dandenong Ranges 45-6, 821-8, 822, 15 Morton National Big Brook Arboretum National Park 522 Kalbarri National Park Park 239 943 Deepwater National 24, 965-6 Mt Arapiles State Blue Mountains National Park 355 Kanangra-Boyd National Park 582-3 Park 150 Devonian Reefs National Park 150 Mt Buffalo National Booderee National Park 1005-6 Karijini National Park Park 612-13 Park 228 Dirk Hartog National 989-92, 990 Mt Canobolas 204 Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) Park 968 Keep River National Mt Coot-tha Reserve National Park 443 841 275-6 Border Ranges National Park 813 Kelly Hill Conservation Mt Field National Park Park 195 Dorrigo National Park 176 Park 758 653-5 150 Dryandra Woodland 922 Kinchega National Mt William National National 841 Park 212 Park 676 Park 150 Errinundra National Kosciuszko National Mungo National Park Broome Bird Park 595 Park 241-4 215-17, 620 Observatory 992 Eungella National Park Ku-ring-gai Chase Murramarang National Bundjalung National 376 National Park 102 Park 228 Park 182 Eurimbula National Lake Warden Wetland Murujuga National Burleigh Head National Park 355 System 956-7 Park 987 Park 316 Finke Gorge National Lamington National Myall Lakes National Cape Arid National Park 866 Park 321 Park 166-8 Park 958 Fitzgerald River National Lane Cove National Namadgi National Cape Conran Coastal Park 952, 956 Park 100 Park 266 Park 595-6 Flinders Chase National Leeuwin-Naturaliste Nambung National Park 923-4 Cape Le Grand National Park 758-9 National Park 932 Park 958 Flinders Ranges National Leliyn () 836 Naracoorte Caves National Park 775 Cape Range National Park 788-90, 26 Lesueur National Park Narawntapu National Park 984-5 Fogg Dam Conservation 924 Park 693 Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 813 Limmen National Naree Budjong Djara Reserve 846 Francois Peron National Park 844 National Park 303 Carnarvon National Park Park 969 Lincoln National Park New England National 361-2 Franklin-Gordon Wild 782 Park 175 Cathedral Rock National Rivers National Park Litchfield National Park 175 708-9 Park 818-19 195 Charles Darwin National Freycinet National Park Little Desert National Park 803 672-3 Park 583-4 Ningaloo Marine Park 982-4 Chiltern-Mt Pilot Garig Gunak Barlu Little Sahara 758 National Park 608 National Park 830 Living Desert State Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park Geikie (Darngku) Gorge Park 212 19, 836-40, 1005 Lorella Springs 19 Glass House Mountains Wilderness Park 845 Noosa Biosphere Map Pages 000 National Park 328 Reserve 323 Photo Pages 000 1093 Noosa National Park 323 Torndirrup National Ningaloo Marine Park Old Government House North Head 99 Park 953 982-4 (Brisbane) 271 Orpheus Island 388 Tower Hill Reserve 562 Ningaloo Reef 18, 982-4 Old Government House Oxley Wild Rivers Tunnel Creek 1005 Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) (Sydney) 100 National Park 175 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park 19, Parliament House Paluma Range National National Park 12, 839, 836-40, 19 (Brisbane) 270

Park 387 871-7, 12, 60 Noosa 323-7, 325, 59 Parliament House INDEX Point Nepean National Undara Volcanic National Noosa Everglades 336 (Melbourne) 457 Park 532 Park 439 Normanton 440-1 Perth Mint 882 Porcupine Gorge Valley of the Giants Queen Victoria Nornalup 944-6  N-O 944-5 Building 77 National Park 444 North Coast Road (King

 Porongurup National Vulkathunha-Gammon Island) 756-7 Rio Vista & Mildura Arts Ranges National Park Centre 619 Park 953-4, 953 North Stradbroke Island 790-1 Royal Arcade 461 Port Campbell National 303-5, 304 Walls of Jerusalem Park 557 Northern Territory 64, 796- Round House 905-6 National Park 699 Purnululu National Park 877, 798-9, 814-15, Royal Exhibition Building Walpole-Nornalup 1013-14, 1014 868-9 469 National Park 944 Rainbow Valley Conser- accommodation 796 Salt Store 912 vation Reserve 867 Warrumbungle National Sandhurst Gaol 572 Park 200 climate 796 Richmond Range food 796 Saumarez Homestead National Park 199 Watarrka National Park 198 870-1, , , , highlights 798-9 Rinyirru (Lakefield) 871 2 7 839 Sir Henry Parkes travel seasons 796 National Park 434 Wilsons Promontory Memorial School of Rocky Cape National Marine National Park Northwest Corner 442-3 Arts 199 586 Park 702 notable buildings Sun Pictures 992 Wilsons Promontory Rowley Shoals Marine Abercrombie House 202 Sydney Opera House 70 National Park 21, Park 993 Australian Parliament Vaucluse House 90 586-9, 587, 21 House 254-6 Woolloomooloo Wharf 85 217-18 Windjana Gorge 1005-6 Beechworth Courthouse Nourlangie 826-7 Sea Acres National Wollumbin National 605 Nowra 225-6 Park 168 Park 195 Boyd’s Tower 238 Nundroo 785 Seal Bay Conservation Wooroonooran National Callington Mill 666 Park 392 Nuriootpa 762-3 Park 757 Central Tilba 233 Worimi Conservation Shoalwater Islands Clarendon 691 Lands 164 Marine Park 918 Cooks’ Cottage 466, 468 Yarriabini National O Snowy River National Como House 476 Oatlands 666-7 Park 594 Park 173 Elizabeth Bay House 85 Oenpelli 830 South Bruny National Elizabeth Farm 100 Old Andado Track 52 Park 655 180 Elsey Station Homestead Old Bar 167 South Head 95 Nelson 565-6 842 Old Telegraph Track 437 Southwest National Park New England 196-200 Experiment Farm 661, 713 New Norcia 922 Olgas, the, see Kata Tjuta Cottage 99-100 Springbrook National 62, Omeo 618-19 Flinders Street Station Park 321 66-251, 68-9, 143, Oodnadatta 794 457-628 Stirling Range National 203 Oodnadatta Track 51, Fremantle Prison 905 Park 954-5, 954-5 accommodation 66 794-5, 46 Government House 217 climate 66 opening hours 23, 1060 (Melbourne) 476 Tamborine National food 66 Orange 204-5 Highfield 702 Park 321 highlights 68-9 Ormiston Gorge 864 Lake View House 608 Tasman National Park travel seasons 66 Orpheus Island 388 Lanyon Homestead 662 Otway Fly 557 travel to/from 67 265-6 Tasmania 633 outback, the 27, 44-52, travel within 67, 245 Martindale Hall 766 Tasmanian Wilderness 791-5, 839, 48-9, 51 Newcastle 157-64, 160 Melbourne 479 World Heritage Area cycling 46 633 Newhaven 537 newspapers 1054 457 driving 50 Tathra National Park facilities 46 925 Nhill 583-4 Mill, the 576 highways 52 Tidbinbilla Nature Nimbin 194-6 Museum Village 956 Reserve 266 Ninety Mile Beach 591 Old Beechworth Gaol permits 52 Ningaloo Coast 972-85, 605 road trains 47 164 974-5 Old Geelong Gaol 542-3 safety 50 1094 outback, the continued Hyde Park 77 itineraries 883 Portland 563-5 tours 47 Japanese Garden 206 LGBTIQ travellers 897 possums 1041 tracks 47, 51-2 King Edward Park 158 medical services 901 postal services 1060 transport 45 Kings Park & Botanic postal services 901 pub accommodation travel seasons 44-5 Garden 879 shopping 901 1054 websites 47 Mackay Regional sights 879-882 pubs 26, 1046

INDEX INDEX Overland Track 710 Botanical Gardens 362 tourist information 902 public holidays 1060-1 Mrs Macquaries Point tours 886 Purnululu National Park 70-1 travel to/from 902 1013-14, 1014 Mt Lofty Botanic Garden

O-R P  paddle-steamers 628 741 travel within 902-3 Phar Lap 1028 Palm Beach 318-19 National Arboretum 256 Q  Palm Cove 413-14 New Farm Park 275 Phillip Island 534-8, 535 quarantine, interstate 1059 Paluma Range National Nielsen Park 95 phonecards 1062 Queen Victoria Building 77, Park 387 Olive Pink Botanic Pieman River 705 78 Pambula 234-6 Garden 851 Pilbara 972-3, 974-5 Queenscliff 545-7 Parachilna 790 Roma Street Parkland Pimba 791 Queensland 63, 267-452, paragliding 270 Pine Creek 820-1 268-9 Bright 613 Rosalind Park 572 Pink Lake 962 accommodation 267 Rainbow Beach 342 Royal Botanic Garden Pinnacles Desert 19, climate 267 Parap Village 808 (Sydney) Sydney 70 923-4, 19 food 267 Paringa 771-2 Royal Botanic Gardens planetariums highlights 268-9 (Melbourne) 473-5 Parkes 209 Brisbane 276 outback 443-52 Royal Tasmanian parks & gardens Launceston 680 travel seasons 267 Botanical Gardens Wollongong 218 Queensland Cultural Adelaide Botanic 640 Gardens 715, 718 Sydney 71 Centre 271 South Bank Parklands Queenstown 705-6 Australian Arid Lands 274 planning Botanic Garden 781 Quobba Coast 971-2 St Kilda Botanical Australia basics 22-3 quokkas 916 Australian National Gardens 477 Australia’s regions 62-4 Botanic Gardens 256 quolls 823 Telegraph Station budgeting 23 Barangaroo Reserve Historical Reserve 851 calendar of events 28-31 24, 71 Wollongong Botanic children, travel with Bicentennial Park 797 R Garden 218 1054-5 radio 1034, 1054 Birrarung Marr 457 Wombat Hill Botanic itineraries 32-6, 32, 33, Rainbow Beach 342-3 Booderee Botanic Gardens 528 34, 36 Gardens 228 Rainforestation 415 391 outback travel 44-52 Botanic Gardens Ravenswood 384 Parramatta 24 repeat visitors 24 (Ballarat) 567 Raymond Island 593 passports 1067 travel seasons 22, Brisbane Botanic Recherche Bay 661 Paterson, Banjo 447 28-31, 53 Gardens 275 865 Patyegarang 1019 websites 23, 24 Cataract Gorge 680 Red Hill 533-4 Pemberton 943-4 plants 925, 1038 Centennial Park 87 reef walking 403 Pender Bay 1001-2 Plenty Highway 52 Chinese Garden of religion 1017 penguins 535-6, 699, 701 politics 1016-17 Friendship 81 Renmark 771-2 Penneshaw 754-5 population 1017 City Botanic Gardens rental accommodation (Brisbane) 270 Penola 777-8 Porongurup National Park 1054 Djanbung Gardens 194 Penong 785 953-4, 953 reptiles 1037-8 Dubbo Regional Botanic Perth 879, 882-903, Port Arthur 664-6 Richmond (Tasmania) Garden 207-8 884-5, 888-9, 894, Port Augusta 781-2 652-3 East Point Reserve 801 898-9, 913, 61 Port Campbell 558-9 Riesling trail 766 466 accommodation 878, Port Douglas 400-1, 418- Rinyirru (Lakefield) 464 887-91 24, 420, 41, 401 National Park 434 Flecker Botanic Gardens activities 883-6 Port Elliot 748-9 Riverina 244-9 393 beaches 882-3 Port Fairy 562-3, 541 road conditions 1076 Foxglove Gardens 233 children, travel with 886 Port Hedland 988-9 road rules 1077 George Brown Botanic drinking & nightlife Port Lincoln 782-3 road trains 47 896-9 Gardens 797 Port Macquarie 168-71, roadhouses 849 festivals & events 886-7 170-1 Robe 773-4 food 878, 891-6 Port Stephens 164-6 Map Pages 000 internet access 901 Port Vincent 779 Photo Pages 000 1095 rock art 860-1, 1032, 22 sharks 1042, 1050 Shoalhaven Coast 223-9 spiders 1050-1 Arnhem Land 828, 829, women travellers 1064-5 Silverton 215 Spit, the 313, 317 830 sailing 42-3, 403 Simpson Desert 52 sport 1047-8 Flinders Ranges 789 Airlie Beach 38, 365-7 skiing 55 sporting events Grampians, the 566, 582 Coral Bay 973-4 Falls Creek 616-17 AFL Grand Final 481 Kakadu National Park Magnetic Island 383 Kosciuszko National Airlie Beach Race Week

821, 822-3, 824, 826 Port Douglas 419, 420 Park 242-3 367 INDEX Kimberley 1004, 1009 Strahan 707 Lake Mountain 526 Alice Springs Camel Mulka’s Cave 921 Tasmania 633 Mt Buffalo 612-13 Cup 855

Nitmiluk (Katherine Whitsundays 367, 370, Mt Buller 600-1 Alice Springs Cup  R-S Gorge) National Park 372 Mt Hotham 616-18 Carnival 854  837 ,836 Salamanca Market 651 Mt Kosciuszko 243 Australian Formula 1 Pilbara 986, 987 Grand Prix 481 Sale 591 Mt Mawson 654 Qunikan Country 435 Australian Sandover Highway 52 Perisher 243 Uluru 876, 877 Motorcycle Grand Sapphire Coast 234-8 Thredbo 242-3 rock climbing & abseiling Prix 537 scenic flights, see also skydiving Blue Mountains 143 Australian Open 480 hot-air ballooning Airlie Beach 366 Brisbane 277 Australian Outback Airlie Beach 367 Avon Valley 921 Marathon 873 Cairns 395-6 Broome 993 Brisbane 277 Bathurst 1000 202 Grampians 580 Coral Bay 973 Cairns 398 Beer Can Regatta 803 Kalbarri National Denham 968 Caloundra 329 Park 964 Birdsville Cup 452 Derby 1004 Hervey Bay 339 Karijini National park 991 Brisbane International Fraser Island 338 Mission Beach 388 278 Margaret River 940 Great Barrier Reef 397, Sunshine Coast 334 City2Surf 107 Mt Arapiles 582-3 403 Townsville 379 Clipsal 500 723 Mt Buffalo 612 Gulf of Carpentaria 844 smoking 1054 Darwin Cup Carnival 803 Snowy River National Halls Creek 1010 Park 594 snakes 1050 Finke Desert Race 854 Kakadu National Park Snapper Rocks 317, 319 Gold Coast 600 311 Tasmania 634, 640, 679, 823 680, 713 snorkelling, see diving & Henley-on-Todd Regatta Katherine Gorge 837 Rockhampton 356-8 snorkelling 855 Kimberley, the 1004 Rockingham 917-18 snowboarding, see skiing Marble Bar Cup 987 Kings Canyon 870 Rocks, the 70-5, 82-3, Snowy Mountains 239-44 Melbourne Cup 481 Kununurra 1011 80, 83 soccer 1048 Mt Isa Rodeo 445 Sydney 106-7 Roebourne 987-8 South Australia 64, 714-95, Noosa Festival of Surfing Uluru-Kata Tjuta 324 Roper Highway 843-4 716-17, 514 National Park 872 Perth Cup 886 Rosevears 687-8 accommodation 714 Watarrka National Park Quicksilver & Roxy Ross 667-8 cilmate 714 870 Pro 319 Ross River fever 1051 food 714 Whitsundays 367 Rip Curl Pro 550 Rottnest Island highlights 716-17 Wilsons Promontory Sydney to Hobart Yacht (Wadjemup) 911-17, history 715 914 National Park 586 Race 107, 641-2 Royal Australian Mint 257 sights 715-19 Yulara 872 Tiwi Grand Final 812 Royal Flying Doctor Service travel seasons 714 scenic railways Tour Down Under 723 208, 212, 444, 800, 851, South Coast Road (King Hotham Valley Railway Uluru Camel Cup 854 875, 1057 920 Island) 757-8 Royal National Park 217-18 South Molle Island 373 sports stadiums Ida Bay Railway 661 Adelaide Oval 718-19 rugby 1048 Pemberton Tramway 943 South Stradbroke Island 320 Gabba, the 298-9 Rutherglen 609-12 Puffing Billy 522 South West Rocks 172 Melbourne Cricket Walhalla Goldfields 590 Southern Highlands 238-9 Ground 466 West Coast Wilderness S Southern Reef Islands Sydney Cricket Ground safety 1050-1, 1061 Railway 707 355-6, 400 135 beaches 1051, 1057-8 Schoolies 313 Southport 661 Springbrook National bushwalking 54-5 Seal Rocks 166 Park 321 Sovereign Hill 566 car travel 1072-3 Seisia 437 St Helens 675-6 spas crocodiles 1050 Serpentine Gorge 864 Stanley 702-3 Byron Bay 186 cyclones 368 Shark Bay 966-70 Stansbury 779 Hepburn Springs 528 dingoes 350 sharks 1042, 1050 Stanthorpe 308-9 Mornington Sheffield 694-5 hitching 1077 Peninsula 533 Stirling 740-1 1096 Stirling Range National Swansea 670-2 Tasman Arch 663 ghost tours, walking Park 954-5, 954-5 swimming 1048 Tasman Peninsula 661-6, tours, whale watching Stolen Generations 1026 Melbourne 479-80 663 Adelaide 722-3, 738 Story Bridge Adventure safety 93, 1051, 1061 Tasmania 63, 629-713, Alice Springs 854 Climb 277 Sydney 102-4 630-1, 657, 669, 687, Arnhem Land 828-9 storytelling 1034 Sydney’s ocean pools 694-5 Blue Mountains 142-3

INDEX INDEX Strahan 706-8 92-3, 79, 91, 94 accommodation 629 Brisbane 278 Strathgordon 712-13 Sydney 11, 66-142, 74-5, activities 633-4 bus 142-3 Streaky Bay 784 80, 84, 86, 88-9, climate 629 camel 872

S-U street art 96, 101, 105, 143, food 629 camel tours 993-7  Brisbane 276, 278-9, 78, 72-3 highlights 630-1 cycling 106  283, 300 accommodation 66, history 632-3 Darwin 802-3 Geelong 539, 542 108-13 national parks 633 fishing 831 Melbourne 457, 467, 468, activities 100-5 tourist information 634 Great Barrier Reef 397 476, 480, 515 children, travel with 104 tours 634 Great Ocean Road 550 Strzelecki Track 51, 795 climate 66 travel seasons 629 Kakadu National Park Stuart Highway 45, 52 drinking & nightlife travel to/from 634 823-4 124-33 Sunset Coast 922-6 travel within 634-5 Karijini National Park entertainment 133-6 Sunshine Coast Tasmanian devils 670, 991 321-37, 322 festivals & events 107 663-4, 674, 698, 709, Katherine 832-4 Sunshine Coast food 66, 114-24 1042 Katherine Gorge 836-7 hinterland 337 history 67 Tasmanian tigers 940, 941, Mary River 815 Surfers Paradise itineraries 71 1016, 1023, 1032 McLaren Vale 744-5 311-13, 312 LGBTIQ travellers 132 Tasmanian Trail 635 Melbourne 480 surfing 55-6 medical services 139 taxes 1060 Mildura 216 Anglesea 550 shopping 136-9 Teewah coloured sand outback 47 Australian National cliffs 335 sights 70-100 rock art 830 Surfing Museum 548 telephone services 23, tourist information 139 Sydney 105-7 Batemans Bay 230 1061-2 tours 105-7 Tiwi Islands 812 Byron Bay 187 television 1034, 1054 travel to/from 139-40 Uluru-Kata Tjuta Coffs Harbour 177-8 Tennant Creek 847-9 travel within 140-2 National Park 872 Coolangatta 319 tennis 28, 278, 480, 1048 walking tours 82-3, 83 wildlife 536, 754, 756, Coolum 334 Tenterfield 199-200 Sydney Gay & Lesbian 802, 907 Geraldton 959-60 Mardi Gras 107, 132 Terrigal 150 Tower Hill 562 Gold Coast 317 Sydney Harbour 90-6, theme parks, see Town of 1770 351-5 Margaret River 940, amusement parks 20 72-3 Townsville 376-82, 400, Three Sisters 147 Merimbula 235 Sydney Harbour Bridge 70, 378, 401 Thursday Island 438-9 Mooloolaba 332 72-3, 31, 58, 72-3 train travel 1077, see also Myall Lakes National Sydney Observatory 71 Tibooburra 217 scenic railways Tilba Tilba 233 Park 166-7 Sydney Opera House 70, Ghan, the 21, 24, 21 Noosa 323, 324 78-9 Timber Creek 840-1 historic 440 Ocean Beach 946 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Timboon 559 travel advisories 1061 Perth 883, 885 Race 641-2 time 22, 1062 travel seasons 28-31, 53 Phillip Island 536 Sydney Tower Eye 77 Tinamba Hotel 590 travel to/from Australia 23, Port Elliot 749 Tip, the 438 1067-8 tipping 1045-6, 1060 Port Macquarie 168 T travel within Australia 23, Port Stephens 164 Tamar Valley 686-9 Tiwi Islands 812-13 1068-77 Rainbow Beach 342 Tamborine Mountain 320-1 toilets 1062 Travers, Pamela Lyndon (PL) 343 Rip Curl Pro 550 Tamworth 196-8 Toowoomba 306-8 Surfers Paradise 311 Torquay 547-9 trekking, see Tamworth Country Music bushwalking Sydney 102 Festival 196-7 Torres Strait Islanders 1031 Trentham 530 Tamarama Beach 93 Tanami Track 52, 850 Torres Strait Islands 438 Tropfest 107 Torquay 548 Tanunda 760-2 tourist information 1062 Tully 386-7 Wollongong 220 167 tours, see also individual Tully River 389 Woolgoolga 180 Tarkine Wilderness 704-5 locations, Aboriginal cultural tours, adven- Turquoise Coast 922-6 Taronga Western Plains ture tours, boat tours & Zoo 207 turtles 345, 355, 411, 802, cruises, driving tours, 981, 982, 993 Taronga Zoo 95-6 Map Pages 000 food & wine tours, TV 1034, 1054 Photo Pages 000 1097 Twelve Apostles 13, 557-8, Walhalla 589-90 Wegener, Tom 336 BatReach 415 559, 13, 540 walking, see bushwalking weights 1054 Bellingen Island 174 typhus 1051 walking tours Weipa 436 Billabong Sanctuary 377 Apollo Bay 555 Wentworth Falls 145-6 Bonorong Wildlife Centre 652 U Broome 997 Western Australia 64, Cairns Turtle Ubirr 824-5 Cradle Mountain 710 878-1014, 880-1, 927,

, , Rehabilitation Centre INDEX Ulladulla 228-9 Darwin 802-3 946-7 974-5 983 accommodation 878 411 Uluru 12, 45, 839, 875-7, Flinders Ranges 785 climate 878 Charleville Bilby 876, 12, 838-9 Fremantle 907 Experience 451 food 878  U-W Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Hahndorf 740 Cleland Wildlife Park 741 Park 12, 839, 871-7, 60 Hobart 640-1 highlights 880-1  Currumbin Wildlife travel seasons 878 Unaipon, David 1023, 1034 Mackay 362 Sanctuary 318 Wet Tropics World Heritage Unesco World Heritage Melbourne 467, 480, 467 David Fleay Wildlife Area 392 Sites 70, 1036 Perth 886 Park 317 whale sharks 18, 973, 976, Daintree, the 15, Rottnest Island 915 Devils@Cradle 709 978, 982, 18 424-9, 15, 58 Sheffield 694 Dolphin Discovery whales 1041 Fraser Island 21, 338, Sydney 82-3, 104-5, Centre 926 whale watching 29, 57 346-51, 347, 21 106, 83 Hamelin Pool 967 Albany 949, 951 Great Barrier Reef 11, 37- wallabies 385, 823, 864 Healesville Sanctuary 524 43, 377, 399-404, , Dunsborough 931 39 Wallaroo 778-9 Island Sanctuary 248 11, 41, 399-401 Eden 236 wallaroos 864 Kangaroo Island 753 Kakadu National Park 15, Fremantle 907 Walls of Jerusalem Koala Care Centre 193 821-8, 822, 15 National Park 699 Hervey Bay 337-8, Koala Hospital 168 Lamington National 340, 57 Walpole 944-6 Kuranda Koala Gardens Park 321 Jervis Bay 226, 227 ‘Waltzing Matilda’ 447 415 Macquarie Island World Merimbula 235 Heritage Area 633 Warrnambool 560-2 Lone Pine Koala Mooloolaba 332 Sanctuary 276-7 Naracoorte Caves Warrumbungle National Ningaloo Marine Park National Park 775 Park 200 Monkey Mia Marine 982, 984 Reserve 969 Ningaloo Reef 18, 982-4 Watarrka 839 Perth 883 Mornington Wilderness Tasmanian Wilderness Watarrka National Park Whitehaven Beach 371, Camp 1007 World Heritage Area 870-1, 871, 7, 839 633 water, drinking 1058 401-2 Pungalina-Seven Emu white-water rafting Wildlife Sanctuary 847 waterfalls Cairns 397-8 Tasmanian Devil Unzoo 429 V Franklin River 708-9 663-4 393 vacations 1060-1 Snowy River 594 Trowunna Wildlife Erskine Falls 552 Park 698 vaccinations 1057 Tully River 389, 397-8 Gunlom 828 Tyto wetlands 385 Vegemite 1045 Whitsunday Coast 827 Victor Harbor 747-8 362-76, 363 Window on the Wetlands Jourama Falls 387 Visitor Centre 813 Victoria 63, 453-628, Whitsunday Island 374 Maguk 828 wildlife watching 55, 1041-2 454-5, 523, 538-9, Whitsundays, the 14, 370-4, Mitchell Falls 1009 William Creek 794 579, 584-5, 587, 400, 14, 402 , 653 602-3 620-1 wi-fi 1058 Wills, William John 1022 accommodation 453 Steavenson Falls 526 wilderness areas 25-6, see Willunga 745-6 climate 453 Twin Falls 827 also national parks & Wilpena Pound 788, food 453 385 nature reserves 789, 26 highlights 454-5 Waterfall Way 175 Tarkine Wilderness 704-5 Wilsons Promontory travel seasons 453 Wentworth Falls 145 wildlife 15, 404, 1036-8, National Park 21, Victoria Highway 46, 52 Wave Rock 920-1 see also individual 586-9, 587, 21 Victoria River Crossing 840 We of the Never Never 842 species Wilyabrup 935-7 viral encephalitis 1051 weather 22, 28-31, 44-5, wildlife reserves & windsurfing 923 sanctuaries visas 22, 1063-4 1035, see also wine regions 16, 26, 1044 Alice Springs Desert volunteering 997, 1064 individual locations Barossa Valley 16, websites 23 Park 850-1 763, 16 activities 57 Alice Springs Reptile Bellarine Peninsula 546 Centre 851 W bicycle travel 1069 Canberra 266 Arkaroola Wilderness Wadjemup 911-17, 914 camping 24 Clare Valley 765, 26 Sanctuary 790 Wagga Wagga 246-7 Great Barrier Reef 38 Coal River Valley 653 Waikerie 768-9 Barna Mia Animal outback, the 47 Sanctuary 922 Coonawarra 777-8 1098 wine regions continued Winton 447-9 Yamba 181-3 Mansfield Zoo 599 Granite Belt 308 Wollongong 218-21, 219 Yardie Creek Gorge 985 471 Griffith 247-8 WOMADelaide 723 Yarra Valley 523-6 Mogo Zoo 231 Hunter Valley 151-7 wombats 54, 529, 1037 Yellow Water 827 Monarto Zoo 767 King Valley 603-4 women travellers 1064-5 Yeppoon 358-60 National Zoo & Margaret River Woodend 530 York 921-2 Aquarium 256 INDEX INDEX 932-41, 934 Woodford 330 Yorke Peninsula Natureworld 674 McLaren Vale 744, 60-1 Woolgoolga 180 778-81, 780 Perth Zoo 882 Milawa 604 Woomera 791-2 Yorkeys Knob 411-12 Platypus House 688 W-Z Mornington Peninsula Wooroonooran National Yulara 872-5, 873 Potoroo Palace 234-5  534 Park 392 417-18 Rainbow Jungle Parrot  Mudgee 209-11 work 1065-6 Sanctuary 962-3 Orange 204-5 World Heritage Sites, see Raptor Domain 758 Pemberton 943 Unesco World Heritage Z Richmond ZooDoo zoos, see also aquariums Penfolds 719 Sites Zoo 652 Adelaide Zoo 718 Pipers River 690 Wugularr 843 Taronga Western Plains Australian Reptile Park Zoo 207 Riesling Trail 766 Wye River 554 150 Taronga Zoo 95-6 Rutherglen 611 Wyndham 1008 Ballarat Wildlife Park 567 Territory Wildlife Stanthorpe 309 Bunbury Wildlife Park Park 816 Tamar Valley 686, 687 Y 926 Wildlife Habitat Port Yarra Valley 525 yachting, see sailing Crocodylus Park 802 Douglas 419 Wineglass Bay 673 Yackandandah 607-8 Crocosaurus Cove 797 Wildlife HQ 331 Wingham 167 Yallingup 933, 935 Halls Gap Zoo 580 Wild Life Sydney Zoo 82

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 1099 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1100

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Benedict Walker Southwest, Central & Outback New South Wales Ben was born in Newcastle, Australia, and grew up in the ‘burbs spending weekends and long summers by the beach, whenever possible. Although he’s drawn magnetically to the kinds of mountains he encountered in the Canadian Rockies and the Japan and Swiss Alps, beach life is in his blood. Japan was the first gig he got for Lonely Planet, in 2008, and he’s been blessed to have been asked back three more times since then. He really is someone who is living his dreams, though life on the road can have its ups and downs. He’s also written and directed a play, toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals and is playing around with photography and film-making. Join him on his journeys on Insta­gram: @wordsandjourneys.

Steve Waters Broome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life; he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide- books for more than 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kam- chatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! He’s contributed to Iran and Indonesia guidebooks, and to the past four editions of Western Australia, and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley. His travel ethos:Travel gives you a unique view of the world. Patience, acceptance, resourcefulness and flexibility are all lessons well learnt. Plans change, where some people see obstacles, others see possibilities. Go with an open mind. But go!

Donna Wheeler Central Coast New South Wales, Byron Bay & Northern New South Wales, the Gold Coast Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for 10 years, contrib- uting to guides to Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops and is a reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna’s work on contemporary art, architecture and design, food, wine, wilderness areas and cultural history can be found in a variety of other publications. She became a travel writer after various careers as a commissioning editor, creative director, digital producer and content strategist. Peter Dragicevich Canberra, ACT & Snowy Mountains, Melbourne & Victoria After a successful ca- reer in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Trent Holden Around Melbourne, Mornington Peninsula & Phillip Island, Great Ocean Road, Goldfields & Grampians, Wilsons Promontory & Gippsland, Victorian High Country A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s contributed to 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes guides to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

Virginia Maxwell Launceston & Around, Devonport & Northwestern Tasmania, Cradle Country & Western Tasmania Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage in Europe and the Middle East. The Mediterranean is her favourite place to travel, and she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for Lonely Planet guidebooks – there are only eight more countries to go! Virginia also writes about Armenia, Iran and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Tamara Sheward Cairns & Around After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara leapt at the chance to join the Lonely Planet ranks in 2009. Since then, she’s worked on guides to an incongruous jumble of countries including Montenegro, Australia, Serbia, Russia, the Samoas, Bulgaria and Fiji. She’s written a miscellany of travel articles for the BBC, The Independ- ent, Sydney Morning Herald et al; she’s also fronted the camera as a documen- tary presenter for Lonely Planet TV, Nat Geo and Al-Jazeera. Tamara’s based in far northern Austral- ia, but you’re more likely to find her roaming elsewhere, tattered notebook in one hand, the world’s best-travelled toddler in the other.

Tom Spurling Fraser Island & the Fraser Coast, Capricorn Coast, Whitsunday Coast, Townsville & Mission Beach, the Great Barrier Reef For this edition, Tom Spurling bumbled from Mission Beach to Fraser Island, but he grew up further south where fewer things can sting you. He has worked on 14 Lonely Planet titles, including Central America, India, Turkey, Japan, South Africa and China. When not pretending to be a twenty-something backpacker, he is a much older married man with two small children who discusses very grave matters with high school students in Hong Kong. Charles Rawlings-Way Queensland, Hobart & Tasmania, Adelaide & South Australia Charles is a veteran travel writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous articles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architec- ture, cartography, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. ‘What’s in store for me in the direction I don’t take?’ (Kerouac).

Andy Symington Sydney, South Coast NSW, Lord Howe Island Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and web- sites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Aus- tralia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Kate Armstrong The Murray Kate has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contributed to around 40 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Austral- ian and worldwide publications. She is the author of several books and children’s educational titles. Over the years, Kate has worked in Mozambique, picked grapes in France and danced in a Bolivian folkloric troupe. A keen photographer, greedy gourmand and frenetic festival goer, she enjoys exploring off-the-beaten-track locations, restaurants and theatres. You can read more about her on www.katearmstrongtravelwriter.com and @nomaditis.

Carolyn Bain Monkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara, Outback Western Australia A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Peters- burg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slove- nia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.

Cristian Bonetto Brisbane & Around, Noosa & the Sunshine Coast, Melbourne Cristian has con- tributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, spanning cities, regions and countries across four continents, including his homeland, Australia. His musings on travel, food, culture and design have appeared in numerous publi- cations and media outlets around the world. When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. You can follow Cristian’s adventures on Instagram (rexcat75) and Twitter (@CristianBonetto). AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Brett Atkinson Perth, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, Southern WA For this edition, Brett uncovered new restaurants, bars and distilleries in Perth and Fremantle, and jumped from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River and the southwest. In Albany, a poignant highlight was the National Anzac Centre telling the story of brave WWI soldiers. Brett has con- tributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Africa, Asia, the United States and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www. brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Anthony Ham Central Australia, Northern Territory Anthony is a freelance writer and pho- tographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

Paul Harding Cairns & the Daintree, Cape York Peninsula, Gulf Savannah, Outback Queens- land, As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Kate Morgan Melbourne & Victoria Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 19th edition – Nov 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 237 0 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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