Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1078 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. who made my stay in the Northern Territory so mem- OUR READERS orable. And to my family who always keep the home Many thanks to the travellers who used the last fires burning – os quiero and I can’t wait to take you edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful there next time. advice and interesting anecdotes: Alan Taylor, Anastasia Papaioannou, Andrea Edwards, Paul Harding Andrew Walter, Cathy Sohler, Daniel Richard, Jane Thanks to all those travellers and locals who helped Rushworth, Kathrin Schad, Kersti Esbjörnsson, Mary with company and advice on my journey through Munro, Patricia Aufderheide, Pauline Dejoux, Sain Queensland’s most remote corners, especially the Alizada, Shelagh O’Brien helpful guys who got me out of vehicular trouble at Eliot Falls. Thanks to Tamara for coffee and a chat in Cairns, and to Tasmin at LP. But mostly to Hannah WRITER THANKS and Layla for being there. Brett Atkinson Kate Morgan Thanks to Tourism WA and visitor information Big thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout the the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way state. Cheers to Western Australia’s talented craft around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you brewers for refreshment on the road, and special to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking thanks to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another partner on occasion, and to my partner Trent for all opportunity to explore my spectacular neighbour. your help and support. Thanks also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the industrious in-house editors and cartogra- Charles Rawlings-Way phers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper helpful souls I met and friends I reconnected with chocolate when I got home. on the road in South Australia and Tasmania, who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Anthony Ham Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increas- A very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me ingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around out into some of Australia’s most beautiful corners in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also that Ione, Remy Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others schooled, tucked-in and read-to. 1079 Andy Symington together this new edition. As per always lots of love As a prodigal Sydneysider returned for this project, to my family, particularly my partner Kate, who I I’ve had so much invaluable advice and help from had the great fortune of having accompany me this friends about what’s going on in town that I can’t time round. possibly thank them all. Tourist offices and more were helpful across the region. Particular gratitude, Virginia Maxwell Staff at visitor information centres in Tasmania however, goes to Stephen Freiberg, Kate McGuin- BEHIND THE SCENES ness, Hugh O’Keefe, Ben Hamilton, Matthew Beech, were almost universally knowledgeable, helpful Iain and Amanda Ashley, Tasmin Waby and the LP and friendly. Particular thanks go to Jo in Wyn- team. And also, as ever, to my family. yard, Bronwyn in Strahan and Michelle at Cradle Mountain. Thanks, too, to my travel companions Kate Armstrong Peter Handsaker and Catherine Hannebery, to Particular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit Vic- Janni Soltys for first bringing Pumphouse Point to toria; Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; my attention and to Mandy Stroebel for her local Sue Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, insight. Greater Shepparton City Council; and Fran Martin, Echuca Visitor Information Centre. Finally, to my Tamara Sheward dear friends Sue Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – Sweaty Cairns hugs and hearty thanks to my with thanks. friends, family, local experts and random ring-ins who helped me delve ever deeper into the wonders Carolyn Bain of my hometown and surrounds; it’s always an Covering such vast distances and calling to check eye-opener being a traveller/travel writer in one’s on some astoundingly beautiful coastline was own backyard. At LP, mega-thanks to Tasmin Waby a joy – my thanks to Tasmin Waby for the com- for the gig, and for your eternal encouragement; mission, and to fellow WA scribes Brett Atkinson and to chapter co-author Paul Harding. The and Steve Waters for sharing info. In the west, biggest clink of the coconuts goes, as ever, to my sincere thanks to all those who guided me to favourite FNQers: my crazy crocodiles Dušan and find ancient rocks, manta rays, deserted beaches Masha. and breathtaking aerial panoramas, and also to those who shared a beer, a chat, travel tips and Tom Spurling recommendations. To Tasmin for choosing me to go around again! To Goose for riding shotgun to Rockhampton and Cristian Bonetto making me go for a jog. To Lucy for sleeping in First and foremost, an epic thank you to Drew the backseat and showing no interest in cryptic Westbrook for his hospitality and generosity. Sin- crosswords. To the bar staff in Ravenswood for cere thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, reminding me why I wanted this job in the first Amy Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, place. To the Whitsundays for being discovered. To Michael Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sulli- the Town of 1770 for providing so many openings at van, Garry Judd and the many locals who offered dinner parties (a number? Really?). To my children insight and insider knowledge along the way. At for not missing me very much (I will never forget Lonely Planet, a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for that slight, O and P). her support and encouragement. Benedict Walker Peter Dragicevich Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby/Tamsin Maybe from Researching this guidebook was an absolute LP for taking me on for this awesome roadie and pleasure, especially because of the wonderful for sticking by me when I struck a few potholes company that I had on the road. Special thanks go along the way. To my sometime co-pilot, the lovely to Braith Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey Sarah Sabell, for teaching me to drive stick and not and Jo Stafford for all their practical assistance in fighting with me even once! And to my beautiful Melbourne, and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for mum Trish, and the Cooks, who let me go off to the Canberra Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my do my own thing at a time of family grief. I live a eating and drinking buddies along the way, espe- weird and wonderful life but without your love and cially Errol Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto support, I’d have nothing and be nobody. and Maryanne Netto. Steve Waters Trent Holden Thanks to Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbie, Meika First up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for and Kaeghan for midnight arrivals, James, Toby, commissioning me to update the bulk of regional John, Sam, Lauren, Dana and the rest of MC for Victoria. Was an absolute honour to cover my home gorge love, Di for making us a cuppa during the state. Totally blown away how much cool stuff grand final, Unruly Ted for getting that trivia ques- there is to visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist tion, Roz and Megan for caretaking and especially visitor centres across the state, who are staffed Hamish and Kaz for sharing all those sunsets and by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a sunrises and drowning out the dust, heat and cor- sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving rugations with grace, good humour and lashings of me the time of day for a chat, and helping me put ginger Matsos. 1080 Donna Wheeler Love and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi- ration and incredible regional knowledge. Thanks to ex-locals Peter Maclaine and Debbie Wheeler, especially for Pete’s surfing expertise. Thanks to Harry in Broadbeach, to the Byron skydivers and to BEHIND THE SCENES Amanda and Simon in Brunswick Heads for great hospo insights. Thanks also to Nic Wrathall for your company during some long research days and Brigid Healy and Andrew King, Kate Dale, Darryn Devlin for Sydney homecoming love. Finally thanks to Joe Guario. for everything. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.