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Norway 2018 Svalbard July 25 - August 9

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Norway 2018 Svalbard July 25 - August 9 NORWAY 2018 SVALBARD JULY 25 - AUGUST 9 DAY 1: LAX TO LONGYEARBYEN – JULY 25 Since almost missing connections on our first trip to Brazil due to airline fiascos Jeanne and I always arrive on a trip a day early. It also gives us some time to deal with jet lag so we are fresher for the start of the “official trip”. DAY 2: LONGYEARBYEN – 26 JULY We arrived in Longyearbyen, Svalbard after about 30 hours of travel. A taxi driver met us in the airport and took us to the Svalbard Hotel. The person at the desk was very nice and extremely helpful. She showed us a map of the town and suggested walks to take and restaurants to eat at. She said if we wanted to buy snacks at the grocery store we need to do it before 5 pm. The hotel had booked all their regular rooms so we were given an apartment above the bar. There was room for a family – a bedroom with two bunkbeds, a bedroom with a queen size bed, a spacious living room and a kitchen. We had a delicious dinner at the small dining room in the hotel. We both had reindeer, shared an appetizer plate, and a really good glass of red wine. Our apartment at the Svalbard Hotel View of the town from our apartment window Typical housing in Longyearbyen Snow mobiles and skis are the typical modes of winter transport. DAY 3: LONGYEARBYEN – 27 JULY We woke up quite early and nothing in town opens until 10 am. It is a good thing we bought snacks at the grocery store. We checked out at 11 am. They allowed us to store our camera gear behind the desk since we could not check into the Radisson Blu Hotel until 3 pm. We hauled our 3 duffel bags to the Radisson Blu to store in their luggage room. We then wandered around town and made a stop at a gallery called 2 Wildphoto. Everyone we met in this town was so friendly. I asked a woman at the front desk a question about living here. She, like the waitress we had at dinner the night before, said she loves it here. She looks forward to the dark of winter after having light all summer. She says it’s a time when the tourists are mostly gone, the pace is slow, and the people spend time together and enjoy each other. She said it is beautiful as long as there is snow on the ground, especially during a full moon. The Church functions as a community center in Longyearbyen. It has a comfortable welcoming feel inside. A view of the inside of the church. 3 The main shopping area in town is one street long. Polar graffiti! We had lunch at a pub in the main shopping area. The local beer was quite good. 4 Our room at the Radisson Blu. We bought the wine at the grocery store in town. DAY 4: LONGYEARBYEN – 28 JULY – SHIP DAY 1 Slept late – 8 am! We had the day to kill before boarding the ship. We went to the museum in town and had an opportunity to become familiar with some of the birds we would see on the trip. We boarded the Polaris 1 at 5 pm. We were given a very cool room. It had a double bed, bathroom, desk and closet. We also had a heater so we could adjust the temperature. We had a porthole that could be covered so we could make the room dark to sleep. It was hard to get used to 24 hours of bright daylight. The dinner menu was fish soup and salmon. It seems like we will be traveling with a very nice group of people. This is a good thing since we will be in very close quarters for the next 10 days. We motored north all night toward Smeerenburgfjord. 5 Jeanne’s iPhone shot of the Polaris 1 at the dock. Our cozy and comfortable cabin on the Polaris 1. DAY 5: SMEERENGURGFJORD, FUGLEFJORD AND HAMILTONBUTKA – 29 JULY – SHIP DAY 2 Up at 5:30 am. Misty, windy and cold this morning. We did a morning ship cruise in Smeerenburgfjord. We had Walrus sightings around lunchtime. We boarded zodiacs and got out on a beach near the walruses. We spent over an hour with the walruses and observed great behavior. Three of them came in from the ocean, swam past us, checked us out, then swam back to the group and rolled around on the beach. Very cool! We did an afternoon cruise on the ship in Fuglefjord and photographed beautiful glaciers. After dinner we did a zodiac cruise in Hamiltonbukta and photographed sea birds and glaciers. The scenery was spectacular. We saw a mother polar bear with cubs from the ship but we did not photograph them. 6 Smeerenburgfjord Smeerenburgfjord Atlantic Walrus at Smeerenburgfjord Atlantic Walrus at Smeerenburgfjord This bearded seal was seen on an after dinner zodiac cruise at Hamiltonbukta. 7 DAY 6: BODLEYBUKTA (WAHLENBERGFJORD) – 30 JULY - SHIP DAY 3 We had our second polar bear sighting the third day on the ship on July 30. It was a beautiful, healthy male we later named “Big Boy”. We observed him from the zodiacs and he seemed curious. We watched him sleep quite a while but he would look up and stretch occasionally. We spent a lot of time watching “Big Boy” sleep although he would occasionally look up, sniff, and stretch. 8 Polar bears are excellent swimmers. We watched this guy cover long distances very quickly. We watched bear behavior for hours. We were so lucky to have so many opportunities to observe this bear. We visited “Big Boy” on three separate zodiac rides. One after lunch, one just before dinner, and one after dinner. He put on a show for us. He walked down the beach right in front of us, went for a swim, and climbed up and rested on several different icebergs. He was one beautiful, big bear! 9 DAY 7: BODLEYBUKTA (WAHLENBERGFJORD) – 31 JULY - SHIP DAY 4 We had such good luck with “Big Boy” the day before that we decided to stay put in Wahlenbergfjord and try our luck again. This wonderful bear did not disappoint us. We photographed polar bears from the zodiacs. “Big Boy” a beautiful polar bear. 10 It was definitely worth staying at Wahlenbergfjord to spend more time with this bear. After lunch Judy and Susan gave slide shows showing some of their best images. It was quite enjoyable. It is fun to see other people’s photos and travel experiences. We did a late after dinner cruise from 10 pm to 12:15 am. It is so surreal when the sun never sets. You can go out any time of day to see stuff. The cruise was a long cold ride to a new area with huge glaciers. We saw a 2-3 year old bear, a walrus, arctic birds, and spectacular scenery. I got pretty cold on this ride. Atlantic Walrus This bear was seen on a late after dinner ride. DAY 8: ETONBREEN (WAHLENBERGFJORD) – 1 AUGUST- SHIP DAY 5 Since we were out so late the night before breakfast was not until 10 am. We did a zodiac ride from 11 am – 1pm. We saw a bearded seal and I took some landscape shots. The light was beautiful at times as the sun darted out of gray clouds. 11 This is our third bear and the only bear sighting that we had August 1. The glaciers were huge here. Sabine’s gull The scenery was spectacular at Wahlenbergfjord. DAY 9: ETONBREEN (WAHLENBERGFJORD) – 2 AUGUST- SHIP DAY 6 After an 8:30 am breakfast we headed out on the zodiacs. The wind was up and the water was choppy. We did a short ride to observe a female bear with two cubs. We thought it would be our only opportunity to see cubs on this trip and we did not want to miss it. We took some photos of sleeping bears and were back at the ship at 10:15 am. Bob Wilson gave an interesting talk on polar bears before lunch. We went back out to view the bears around 2 pm. It was windy and cold and the bears went further from the beach up the hill. When we got back Steve showed his images of splash composites and I gave a slide presentation showing an overview of trips and locations in California photographed during the last 10 years. 12 Wahlenbergfjord Glacial melt at Wahlenbergfjord Female polar bear with her two cubs at Wahlenbergfjord. 13 Lenticular clouds over the glacier at Wahlenbegfjord DAY 10: ETONBREEN (WAHLENBERGFJORD) – 3 AUGUST- SHIP DAY 7 We moved the ship back to the area where we previously photographed the polar bear we called “Big Boy”. We were on the zodiacs at 10 am. Big Boy was snoozing on the shoreline so we decided to cruise around through the ice. We came across a 1 and ½ to 2 year old walrus cub with its mother laying on the ice. After spending some time photographing and observing the pair of walruses we headed back towards the beach where Big Boy was sleeping. In route we came across a very thin female polar bear. We took a few photos and quickly moved on so we would be sure not to stress this already physiologically stressed animal. We then came across Big Boy hunting in the ice. He put on quite a show for us. He climbed on an iceberg from the water, shook off the water, looked around, then got back in the water to swim some more.
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