November 2017

Kopara Labour Weekend 2017!

NOTE: Opinions expressed in this Newsletter are not necessarily those of The Editor, The Canterbury Branch of The Ulysses Club of New Zealand, or The Ulysses Club of New Zealand Inc but are those of the contributing or original writers.

Deadline: The deadline for contributions to all future Newsletters will be midnight on the last day of the month prior to the publication being issued! Committee Contact Details

Coordinator/Branch liaison 358 7494 Steve Orpwood #2119 021 127 3364 [email protected] Secretary 347 8788 Debbie Killick #8578 027 229 3608 [email protected] Treasurer 347 0720 Chris Groube #7925 027 201 1213 [email protected]

Welfare 981 0886 Caroline Falkenberg #7210 027 589 6170 [email protected]

Rides Coordinator 325 7712 Bob Tomkins #4562 027 245 3000 [email protected]

Fundraising Coordinator N/A Siobhan Storey #8780 027 473 5723 [email protected] Rider Training N/A Chris Carey #3497 021 497 155 [email protected] Social N/A Jo Mills #9503 027 252 7562 [email protected] Social N/A Kevin Thompson #9502 027 203 3025 [email protected]

Non Committee Contact Details.

Newsletter 365 0309

Bob Tanner #2877 027 221 0732 [email protected] Webmaster 344 6161 Colin Kennedy #9370 027 492 9647 [email protected]

Sheriff N/A Terry Stevenson #7855 027 452 6676 [email protected]

Archives/Property N/A Terry Stevenson #7855 027 452 6676 [email protected]

Quartermaster (Gear Sales) 325 7712 Joanne Earle #8676 021 025 84202 [email protected]

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Welcome to another missive from the front seat. And a big welcome to our new branch members and visitors. I would like to apologies to all new members who gave me the application forms for the delay in getting them to the National Administrator. I put them in an envelope and along with other mail to post put them on the front seat of the car to post. I picked up the bundle of mail not realising that on envelope had slipped down be- tween the seats. Once again I apologise for this error. Have you booked for the Christmas Function? Club night is your last chance to con- firm and pay. As a branch we have had a busy month: First up The Mega Mitre 10 birthday BBQ, and all three sites were very busy all day. Reports from all those involved indicate it was a very successful day. Thank you to all who put up their hands and worked so hard to make it a success. I believe it was a lot more successful than originally planned, again well done and THANK YOU. Second was the surprise quiz sprung on you all at the meeting, the feedback has been positive and everyone cer- tainly enjoyed themselves. I was a little miffed when I couldn’t answer the Hugh Anderson (4 x times World Cham- pion) question. Talking of Hugh, he will be at the Southern Classic at Levels again riding his 250 at speed. Third. Was the Kopara weekend with the Greymouth Street Races thrown in. Although the weather wasn’t the best it cleared in Greymouth for a great days racing. I had the good fortune to run into a lot of Club members and being the assistant steward for the weekend had time to chat with them. Great to see Bob Tanner and the crew who were stay- ing in Hokitika. To Bob and Jo Tomkins a large vote of thanks for a great weekend and yes, Pam and I will be back. (I understand that not all the bikes made it home under their own power) Fourth. The 1000k. Chris and Steve have done the branch proud here and with the numbers up in the 65+ rider mark, I believe this event is assured of a good future. Chris and Carey opened their house to those finishing in Christchurch, along the Steve and Barb, Pam and I were there to meet the returning riders. Everyone said they en- joyed which ever route they chose and I believe everyone managed to complete the course. Again, Chris and Steve on behalf of the branch THANK YOU. Now. What’s coming up? Those of you who have and expiry date on your membership card of December 2017 need to renew your member- ship. Do it now, save the rush, make it easy for everyone, hop on line transfer the funds, make sure you include your name number and branch in the details, then send a confirmation email to [email protected]. If you have had a change to your email address or other details now would be a great time to tell those who need to know. As asked earlier, are you planning on attending the branch Christmas Dinner? Have you confirmed? Have you paid? If your answer to the first question was yes, have you done the others? If not do it now. With the rally season now getting into full swing I am sure a lot will have their calendars well planned. Please be safe out there and ride with the intention of returning to your family. The road toll is well up and we don’t need to add to it. For those that enjoy a day or two at the bike races the Mike Pero Southern Classic is on the first weekend of Decem- ber. This meeting is for classic bike lovers and a chance to rub shoulders with the riders of said machines. Now to the serious bit February is the month of the branch AGM, if you are looking to join the committee keep an eye out for nomination forms. It may pay to approach those current members and find out what is involved in the position you are interested in. I would like to remind you all here that all positions are open. Go on have a look or better still give it a go. Till next time ride safe Stephen Orpwood #2119 Coordinator

3 November Birthdays

HAPPY BIRTHDAY FOLKS

Ian Begbie Steve Binnie Dennis Bourke Chris Bryant Andy Burdett-Clark Jim Burt Jean Crawley Dave Davies John Deans Nigel Dixon Bill Gaskell Dick Gurney John Harrold Murray Hawke Eden Husband Paul Lawrence Rod Lewis Chris Lynch Brian Massie Jeff Mitchell Rob Mugford Gary Oliver Max Paton Paul Schroeder John Scott Daniel Sekulla Grant Sellars Thea Turner Michael Wilson Chris Woodruff

Brent Yaxley

4 Southern Solstice Safari 2017.

A ride to celebrate the southern solstice. We will be riding from sunrise to sunset with plenty of breaks and photo opportunities. This is not a ride to travel the furthest just a ride to enjoy the day with some great riding companions and hopefully some great scenery. Please read the attached form, fill in and return to [email protected] to register. Any questions please feel free to contact Euan on 021 298 2348.

Euan Quaid #8661. Pete Carrington #8337. SOUTHERN SOLSTICE SAFARI Saturday 23 rd December 2017 5.45am – 9.11pm A ride to celebrate the longest day of the year Held on the closest weekend to the Southern Solstice Leave at Sunrise…ride all day….return at Sunset No set destination (suggestions welcome)….route to be confirmed on the day The objective is to enjoy the longest day of riding available This is an endurance ride not a race. Your participation is conditional on you agreeing to ride according to the current road rules and posted speed limits No fee for this ride but a cloth badge is available at $30 to add to your jacket

Disclaimer ---- By completing this entry form, I/we acknowledge, that this event is NOT a race and agree to abide by all current road rules/regulations and speed limits. In addition to the above, I/we acknowledge that the organisers shall not be held responsible for any mishap or injury/damage incurred as a result of my/our participation in this event.

Name:______Pillion: ______Address:______Phone: ______Cell Phone ______Email Address: ______Bike Make /Model ______$30 for Cloth Badge commemorating ride as pictured. Yes / No

Signed Rider: ______Signed Pillion: ______

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The Longest Day!

The Longest Day for 2017 is done and dusted and if you listen to the feedback Hawkeye Parr received, it was a huge success. The three route format again proved a winner and while SH1 from Blenheim to Waipara has a large rock in the way, a modified Great Northern circuit drew in a number of NI riders. Unfortunately one such rider had a whoopsie on the road / rail bridge at Taramakau south of Crescent City. But not one to chuck the towel in, both he and his bike finished the circuit and caught the ferry back home. Well done that man! Hopefully by November 2018 SH1 will have been sorted and the original Longest Day circuit reinstated to its former glory. This ride is all about having a crack and a group of riders from Winton, Southland asked Hawkeye could they make up their own 1000km course? Absolutely was his reply and so these hardy Southlanders sub- mitted their route, which incidentally, is a beauty taking in the best of Southland and Central’s roads. So good is their route that it will be included in next years’ choices. With that in mind, the Captain has been playing on Google maps and come up with a few more options, some so cunning you could pin tails on them and call them weasels. Another heart-warming story comes from the Maniototo. Two brothers, both farmers and a third brother from Christchurch riding a trike (he is otherwise wheel chair bound) opted to take on the West Side Story. I understand that Hawkeye’s name was the subject of most vociferous and ribald criticism as the three brothers slowly dissolved in the heavy Haast rain. Drying slowly as they breasted The Neck, they eventu- ally reached Omarama which was closed; no beer, no pies, just a bed. Someone had left the light on. Finishing Sunday morning they rang Hawkeye; he rang me and was obviously stoked. “Best ride they’ve ever done” he told me. “In fact it’s the first time the three brothers have ever ridden to- gether and they’re doing it again next year.” The last rider came in at 0030. Tom rang me. His bike had broken down, was on a trailer and he was gutted he couldn’t finish. Rubbish I replied, come round. The BBQ is finished but I can offer you a beer or a cuppa. His story in brief; stopped north of Temuka, a cop pulled up and asked him if he was alright. Yes, he said explaining he was waiting for a trailer. Not too long after, Tom said two patrol cars roared up parking either side of him. It was the same cop only this time he wasn’t as jovial. Tom was asked to place both hands, slowly, on the bonnet of the car while the he was searched, his bike checked with the other policeman watching it all with a firearm at the ready. Tom, quite anxious by this time asked what was go- ing on. It was all a misunderstanding. A passing motorist had reported a rider with a gun to his head. Tom had been talking to his girlfriend; they’d mistaken his cell phone for a pistol. Mention the word fire- arm and the police understandably reacted but it all ended happily ever after when his girlfriend rocked up and the police helped Tom lift his bike onto the trailer. That folks, is what it’s all about, having a crack. A great big man-hug for Hawkeye and his team at work for keeping track of all the entries and such and also a very appreciative thank you to all the riders and pillions who took part. The old cliché applies, if you build it they will come. I have 7 or 8 variations on the basic routes for next year which hopefully will appeal to riders from around the Mainland and North Island, many of which have expressed an interest in travelling over the creek to do it. The one and only Longest Day ride is over for this year, but it will be back and it will be bigger and it will be better… Warning: Long distance riding can be addictive!

If you’re itching to do more of this type of riding, check out the website www.distanceriders.org.nz

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MARLBOROUGH BRANCH The Ulysses Club of NZ Inc. invites you to the KAITUNA RIDGES

" BACK to BASICS RALLY" HAVELOCK 2018

With kind permission of the owners, Paul & Muff Newton.

DATE: Friday to Sunday 23th – 25th February 2018, Rally opens Friday 3pm, closes Sun 2pm All participants MUST register, see Marlborough Branch Web Site for Registration Form.

DIRECTIONS: End of Readers Road approx 3 km south of Havelock. RALLY MARSHALS: Kelvin Watson. Tim & Melissa Wills. Kiley Boddington. ACCOMODATION: Limited floor space in woolshed, first in best posie, need to bring air bed, sleeping bag. Motor homes, caravans or tin tops are welcome. TENT SITES: lovely sites available near Kaituna river or closer to woolshed, your choice. COSTS: $30 per person which includes Saturday night dinner . Tea and Coffee available free all weekend. BYO food for Friday night and breakfasts -. DRINKS: BYO, no rubbish to be left on site please.

GENERAL: This is a great opportunity for older & newer members to enjoy the way it used to be, back to basics at an affordable cost. Usual Friday & Saturday Nights Entertainment. Fun Gymkana will be held on Saturday afternoon. Raffle Saturday Night. A performance by Tim Wills & The Procrastinators Band will be something to look forward to.

Limited numbers so PLEASE REGISTER EARLY . Don’t miss out!

REGISTRATION: Closing date for registration is SATURDAY 18th FEBRUARY, No late entries accepted.

NOTE: Numbers are limited, registrations will close earlier if maximum number is reached before 18th Feb.

REGISTRATION FORM (must be completed by all participants)

NAME……………………………………………………Ulysses No;…………………

PILLION:…………………………………… E/MAIL ADDRESS; …………………………………………

PHONE No;………………………….

NUMBER ATTENDING? X $ 30each =. Cheque enclosed

Internet Banking A/c 03-0599-0311074-00 Use “Rally 2018” as Reference.

Post to Ulysses Marlborough Branch c/o Kelvin Watson, 143B Maxwell Rd, Blenheim. 7201. Registration closes Sunday 18th February 2018. No late entries accepted.

INDEMNITY : I agree to hold the organisers blameless for any injury or accidental damage while attending or travelling to and from this event.

SIGNED. …………………………………………..

8 Xmas Party

This is to take place on the 24 th November. We have very limited numbers so please express your interest to either Kev 0272033025 or Jo 0272527562 Tai Tapu Hotel 780 Old Tai Tapu Road Tai Tapu 5.30-6.30pm Meet and Greet 6.30pm Buffet dinner Buffet $45.00 for Non member Buffet $30.00 Financial Club member subsidised Bar facilities on site EFPOS available October is a great time to join up the better half and get a subsidise meal for them and Save $15 Pay to branch account; 03-1594-0041946-00 Ulysses Canterbury This must be paid into branch account 1 week prior to the date which is the 17 th Nov and if possible please text Kev or Myself to confirm numbers

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RATES QUOTED FOR: Ulysses

A discount of 10% off the best available fare applies for travel dates 01 February through to 18 December 2018

Booking conditions and instructions for members are:

Each reservation must be made direct with Interislander online at www.interislander.co.nz

Also check out our Premium Plus onboard lounge upgrades for total comfort at www.interislander.co.nz/Premium-Plus.aspx for 18yrs plus

Simply insert the Promo code “XULY1” on the “Payment details” page then click on “enter” and this will apply the discount.

Membership card is required at the terminal on check in. No membership card and retail fares will be charged.

Space is subject to availability at the time of the booking request.

The normal conditions of the above fare type apply - e.g. Easy Change is 100% refundable if cancelled.

Bookings made through our call centre are at regular rates .

11 FREE TOM TOM RIDER WORTH $649 WITH EVERY 2018 MODEL FOR SUZUKI FEST, WHILE STOCKS LAST

12 First Lines Most of us like music, in one form or another, so here’s a wee brain teaser for you. Each month I‘ll give you the first line of a popular song (from any era) and you can email me on [email protected] with the actual song title and the singer who made it famous. I’ll keep a record of your replies and we’ll see who the real music “smart-arses are!” Here’s another classic! “Long long time ago” Try exercising the “old grey matter” and not resorting to Google or Wikipedia! Think you all should find this one much easier than last months chart topper, especially when it comes down to the original artist. “First Line” for October “Don’t cry for me Argentina” by Julie Covington, the number 1 hit single in Australia for 1977.

Phone: 03 318 7294 Text: 021 0881 5414 [email protected] website in construction

181 Wairiri Road, Glentunnel (Only 10 minutes from Darfield on SH77)

Hours: Tues to Sat 9am – 3pm Still giving great service and deals! Specializing in all tyres, chains, sprock- ets, brakes, oil filters, oils etc for all bikes!

Eftpos, Credit and Farmlands Cards accepted Tea and coffee supplied & BBQ available

13 14 THe Captain’s Corner

Over what amounted to a bland, flabby, mediocre feed of greasies at the Cashmere Club, the topic of WOFs came up and I passed the comment that I believed three year WOFs were not a good idea.

I used an example of a family member who had bought a new SUV and between a service and the next one, a chronic squeaking started when she was braking hard. When I suggested that it would be a good idea to have her brakes looked at she replied, why, I have a three year WOF.

Yes, I know. Irrespective of what interval your WOF is or how many years or kms you get under warranty, it doesn’t excuse you as the owner / operator from fulfilling your obligation to ensure your vehicle meets the safety standards at all times. Which would imply regular services or at least inspections.

When I was a lad my Dad did the oil changes, he adjusted the brakes, stripped the carby on the old Vauxhall; in fact other than major mechanical work, he maintained that car and kept it good mechanical condition. From observing his actions and heeding his advice, I learnt to do the same, particularly when it comes to our bikes.

Charlotte the Harlot has a 3-year WOF. I have her serviced every 6,000kms as per manufacturers requirements and by cleaning her every Saturday I am able to I keep a good eye on her overall condition particularly tyres, their pressures and fluid levels.

I believe the fault or reason is that we are a consumer society. Buy it, use it then throw it away. How many drivers know how to or cannot change a tyre? They do not know or they won’t because they risk breaking a nail. My daughter did not know where her dipstick was until I showed her, which then led into demonstrating how to check coolant, brake and steering fluid levels.

Cars are brilliant today; they do everything for you except make toasted sandwiches. They are forgiving of our indiscretions. With all the safety features, traction control, stability control and other computer aided driving software the give us the confidence and an over inflated expectation of our own ability as drivers and we push the boundaries with comfort and ease.

So when something goes wrong it usually goes horribly wrong. Look at the road toll. You can only blame central government and regional councils so far. In the end, we are responsible for our own actions on the road because roads do not cause accidents, it is the choices we make while using them.

However, I digress so where was I? We now enjoy three, five even 10-year warranties and extended WOF intervals.

I know as an owner, driver, operator that despite these benefits I am still obliged to maintain my vehicle in between those deadlines, however I believe that many drivers jump in and drive away without thinking or realising that general wear and tear carries on regardless.

As silly as it sounds I knew a person who argued vehemently that if they had a 3 year WOF then their tyres should last that long too or what’s the point of having one. The lyrics from the Don Henley song Dirty Laundry sprang to mind… bubble headed beach blonde . Big hair in a Remuera Tractor. You just can’t argue with some people.

Captain Carefree #3497

15 For Sale If it’s motorcycle related and you want to sell it, or even give it away, we can help!

Need a WOF for your bike? Visit VINZ at 471 Colombo St Sydenham, for expert service and a Ulysses discount. Branch member, Dick Gurney, looks after the motorcycle warrants and has arranged a discounted price for Ulyssians. Please ensure that you tell the ladies at reception that you’re a member and have your membership card handy in case you’re asked for proof.

“Please note”! “Important ”! Look out for Dick “Make sure you when you get check your lights, there and give brakes, tyres etc be- him your keys. fore coming down, to Dicks days off reduce possibility of are Saturday a FAIL” Sunday & Wednesday.

Goldwing and Trailer for SALE

1992 (first registered in July 1994) Honda GL1500 Aspencade. Travelled 143,098 miles. Registration on hold until 1 October. CB radio fitted, seat recovered, a few extra bits of chrome and all the Aspencade extras. Cam belt, water pump and gear selector replaced at 110,000miles Selling bike as wife has retired after 47 years of being my pillion, so I’m now spending more time riding on the Africa Twin. Asking $8000 ono.

I 1998 Classic Ultralite trailer (made in Australia) Great for those camping holidays or when you just want to take some extra clothing or the kitchen sink. Asking $1,500.

Contact Mike Dew #2415 on 027 283 0235 or 03 359 4949 (evenings) for more information.

16 Blast from the Past! Now here we have as good a keen “Harley” man as you’re ever likely to find, and one who’s never actually ever forgotten that exasperated Traffic Officer “stance” that he perfected in the mid 70s. Looking cool eh! Last months “Blast” obviously John & Merilyn Gallagher who we still miss on our Wednesday outings!

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Congratulations To Phil Gannon for completing a Gold Course with Duncan Seed of 2Drive Safe. It’s great to see someone with Phils experience doing a course and as I’ve always said, you’re never too old to learn. That someone with Phils riding prowess to keep choosing to upskill is a credit to him. If I’ve missed you out and if you have completed any form of rider training please let me know and a few lines for the newsletter on your thoughts of the training. Regards, Chris Carey #3497 [email protected]

Rescue Helicopter Hunt, 2017/2018 Ulysses Canterbury is running the Rescue Helicopter Hunt again. This year there will be a new route. The entry form is on our website as well as various Facebook pages. The same format as before, start and finish any where on the route with questions to answer. When: from 1 st November 2017 Until: 1 st March 2018 The aim of this ride is to raise funds for the Canterbury West Coast Westpac Rescue Helicopter service. If you are unable to complete the ride within the dates please contact me as my aim is the make the ride possible for everyone at their leisure. The ride is designed to be done in either one or two days and in either directions. Pillion passen- gers are welcome. The questions, which will be emailed to you upon payment, are set out from Christchurch, Springs Junction, Reefton, Greymouth and return to Christchurch. This is the direction I did the reconnaissance in. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or enquires. Ride safe Custard Square Bob #9306 Enquires to Bob Buchanan, [email protected] or 021 669 288. All proceeds to the Canterbury West Coast Air Rescue Trust

A group of 10 or so, members of Canterbury Branch will be participating in The Helicopter Hunt over the weekend of the 11th and 12th November, leaving from The Peg (Belfast Hotel) at 9.00 am, on Saturday 11th, and overnighting at The Old Nurses Home in Reefton. Anyone and everyone is welcome to join the group, but you will need to make your own accommodation arrangements. Entry Form is on the branch website!

19 I’ll ‘ave no gossip in this jungle! Part 2.

The numerous cafes and Dhabas were full of foreigners; Germans, Israelis, Poms and a few Aussies. Some with an unravelling DNA strand were on push bikes! There was a ‘uniform’ of sorts for the seriously bewildered hiking fraternity out to ‘find themselves’ or reach an otherwise altered state or nirvana; baggy pants, loose shirts, berets and long pashmina scarves. It wasn’t Port Royal they were smoking either. Either way, they were all talking loudly, because everyone else obviously needed to hear of their achievements. The ride through to Kaza was another thrill. Mostly sealed ex- cept in places where it wasn’t, narrow, rough, hairpin bends, scree slopes or clinging to the sides of cliffs. I stopped to take a photo of two women who miles from any- where, out in the wop-wops, were sweeping the road! I thought what a pointless exercise but I guess they must get some sort of payment for doing that. Kaza was a bustling village / town that offered internet cafes dominated by a rather impressive Buddhist temple. The 14 th century Tangyud (Tang-rGyud) Gompa was built as a fortified castle with massive slanted mud walls, her battlements painted with vertical red ochre and white stripes. Kaza also has the only petrol station in the area however while open for business they were out of fuel; the tanker convoy hadn’t arrived. “I can assure the gentlemen on the motorcycles that the petroleum gasoline will arrive most precipitously by 6pm today or possibly later” the attendant explained. Precipitously? The Dewachen Retreat at Rangrik was 5kms away so rather than hang around, we carried on, the me- chanics would fuel the bikes later on. The view from room Mack and I were sharing was amazing; I could see the famous Kye (Key) Gompa in the distance bathed in the afternoon sun. 12kms away, it is the biggest monastery in the Spiti Valley and some of the group went for a squiz however I was happy to stay, wash a couple of pair of socks and grunds, kick back and write up my notes.

Day 6 – Karza to Chandra Taal: We were still following the Spiti River to Lossar, a small village where we stopped and regrouped for another document check. Today was the day we’d reach the first of the high passes and I was a little bit excited. Leaving the Spiti River below, we began the climb up. The glimpses of snow-capped mountains ahead were a tease, rounding every bend expecting to see the pass, but there was another bend, then another. Eventually on a ridge in the distance, I saw flags. Kunzum La at 4551m certainly isn’t the highest as far as passes go but it was my first high pass. I felt a huge sense of accomplishment. I rode to the Stupa along the ridge lined with prayer flags. I felt I was standing on top of the world. Away in the distance those snow-capped peaks were no closer. The vastness of this country cannot be described in words. The road going down was steep and rutted with frequent road repairs causing minor delays. Near the bottom at the turn-off Digby waved me down. He’d sent the front runners on to Batal, a cluster of tent Dhabas about 3.5kms further along for a cuppa and he didn’t want any heading to the lake camp by themselves. The road ap- parently was bloody awful in places and he wanted us to ride as a group. I said I was happy to stay here and keep pointing everyone towards Batal. For the best part of an hour I sat against a warm rock enjoying the sun and the absolute silence dwarfed by the landscape until Jeev, the mechanics and the doctor arrived! Con’t Page 21

20 The 9kms to the lake camp along the Chenab River valley was pretty bad in places not helped by an idiot in an SUV up my chuff wanting to pass where plainly there was no room. I can be very wide when I want to be and he could wait. Chandra Taal, the Lake of the Moon, sits on the Samudra Tapu plateau overlooking the Chandra River. You can’t see the lake from the tent camps; it’s a short walk away. Just like the Brass, it got quite cold as the sun went down and I was very grateful for the extra thick duvets on the camp beds. While the ensuite had a dunny and a sink, tonight we’d have to “ Black Snake ” it; a term the Aussi’s used for going without a shower. The tent camps we stayed at varied in degree of comfort and fa- cilities bearing in mind these are dismantled and packed away for winter; covered by several meters of snow. They were com- fortable with ensuites with European flushing dunnies and a sink but only some had showers. All had electric lighting and some had one or two power sockets to charge devices as long as the portable generators were running. There was a mess tent and the meals prepared over gas cookers were all pretty good but at some camps they were excellent. I guess you could calling it Glamping without the Glamp and more than adequate for what I needed.

Day 7 – Chandra Taal to Tandi: With a smudge of frost it was time to use my new Alpinstar adventure pants. Up until now I’d only needed a set of light weight motocross pants over my knee armour. With the vents zipped shut on my old, frayed yet still waterproof Dry Rider jacket, I was set for what was for me to be the hardest day of the ride. There were several water crossings and depending on snow melt, they could be easy or difficult and I’d re- signed myself to getting wet feet at some stage. The road from Batal to Gramphoo follows the Chandra River and was as Digby said, challenging! One stream crossing in particular nearly bested me. Having got through, I waded back stumbling and slipping on the boulders to help another rider. With half the bikes through we waited while a small minibus charged into the mess and bottomed out on a large boulder. It situations like this, its every man to the pumps. The pas- sengers got out and with us, pushed, shoved, levered and with stones packed under the wheels we finally we got her through. They might be maniacs trying to run you off the road a kilometre back but no-one leaves anyone stranded. So I was a bit peeved to find that some of our party who had got through had buggered off leaving me and a couple of others at the coal face. A white i30 was the next to have a crack and the next to come to grief. More pushing shoving, rocking it backward and forward, revving the shit out of it and showering every- one with cold water and gravel, it finally gained traction, shot forward leaving most of the front body panels behind! It’ll run cooler with unrestricted airflow to the radiator I imagine but I’d flag driving at night with no lights. With the last of the bikes, the mechanics ute and baggage van through I was shattered; hands on knees, gasping like a fish out of water. No matter how deep or fast I breathed I couldn’t get enough air and it was not a nice feeling. The only way to through this was to sit down, force myself to re- lax and breathe slowly. Doctor, “ Are you Ok Mr. Chris?” “F__ked” I gasped. “I’ll be right soon!” Tail End Charlie, I caught up with a few others having a breather at Chhota Dhara and while the sign said Dhaba,theroofless and crumbling walls told another story. The next section took us through alpine country and boulder strewn pastures, scenes that reminded me of postcards of Switzerland; but not as manicured. I stopped to let a large herd of goats cross in front of me; this was their country. Con’t Page 22

21 At Chhatru I needed a rest, a proper rest, not the suck on the camelback and force down a melting muesli bar kind of rest. Most of the group had stopped here as well. A steaming bowl of 2minute noodles and a cup of lemon and ginger tea was just what the doctor or- dered. The road didn’t get much better. There were some awful water crossings where streams cut across the road be- fore plunging over the precipice or finding a path of least resistance had turned the road into a riverbed. We bounced through them, along them, up and down them. We waited patiently for other traffic to get through. Alas my old boots were leaking like sieves and my feet were wet and frozen. Gramphoo is just a T-intersection where the Leh-Manali Highway meets the Spiti Valley Rd and was sealed most of the way to Tandi. I took the opportunity for a breather waiting for the back markers to dribble in before pointing them in the right direction. A group of Lycra clad cyclists stopped, consulted guide books and headed off downhill. Apparently when God was handing out brains I guess they thought he’d said trains and declined the offer. A few kms past the permit check at Khoksar and across the river was the construction site for northern portal for the new 10km Manali tunnel which will allow intrepid trav- ellers to bypass, or underpass, Rohtang La. The Leh-Manali Highway continue to follow the Chandra River through some rather picturesque villages and ham- lets. The Drilbu Retreat Camp at Tandi where we were stop- ping for the night sits next to the monastery at Tupchiling under the holy peak of Drilbu and overlooks the river val- ley at the confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers. We were all glad to call it a day because it had been a big day. My boots found a sunny place on the roof of the cabin where they could drain and dry. Over fences, hang- ing from branches were wet socks and assorted articles of clothing drying. I also had a long hot shower, the first in two days and it was glorious. Hooking up expired cameras and phones to charge up, I wrote up my notes for the day and read through the ride brief for to- morrow. The hosts laid it on for us with hot nibbles, beers, spicy Chai and ginger, lemon & honey tea. Having struggled with the altitude today pushing and shoving I stuck with my lemon ginger tea. They reckon, whoever ‘they’ are, that one beer up here has the same effect as 3 or 4 at sea level. While we were relax- ing the mechanics were checking out the bikes. One or two had a few bruises; broken foot pegs and brake levers, missing mufflers but overall they passed the test with flying colours. They also fuelled them for us. You can’t fault the service. If the whores d’vores were something, the dinner went one step further up the culinary ladder. It was delicious! I think I was asleep before my head hit the pillow. I feel for Mac who I was sharing accommodation with because when I’m tired I snore. Unless he’s stone deaf, he must have suffered but suffer he did in dignified silence. One of the side effects of altitude is interrupted sleep patterns; I woke a lot during the nights so what sleep I did get wasn’t good sleep. Most riders also commented on having out to lunch, quite bizarre and irrational dreams. I had some doozies; I wonder if I’ll ever get to meet those women and what was Hawkeye doing on Charlotte the Harlot (my ‘Busa) at Kunzum La? As for the donkey? Probably best forgotten. Day 8 – Tandi to Sarchu: The late departure did us good; we all needed a good rest from yesterday and as we were going to be spending a bit of time at altitude today, Digby and the Doctor reasoning the less time spent up there the better. We followed the river again through Keylong and Jispa stopping at Darcha for another permit check, past Deepak Taal (Lake Patsio) to Zing Zing Bar and a long overdue cuppa. Con’t Page 23

22 From here the road kept going up and up in a series of zig-zags. At 4890m, Bara-lacha La is in the Zan- skar range and connects the Lahaul district in Himachal Pradesh with Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir state. The views were expansive. A small stone plinth and a tangle of flags marked the spot. I got my t-shirt out and took photos just in case Wayne wanted to include this as a mystery Waypoint in the 2018 TT2000. If going up was easy, going down was anything but; my notes actually said ‘ c__t of a road’. Snowmelt streams, mud, ruts and pot holes. Stopping at a small Dhaba at the bottom my face, hands, fingers and feet were tingling with pins and needles as oxygenated blood stimulated the nerves in my extremities. Hush your dirty mind! Following the Tsarap River our camp site, one of many along this stretch of road, soon hove into view. A group of Dutch riders we’d been playing leapfrog with over the past few days were also staying here and like us were having a blast. Com- ing from a country that’s flat and parts of which are below sea level, this really must have been an eye opener.

Day 9 – Sarchu to Lato: Not far from the camp is the village of Sarchu, also known as Sir Bhum Chun, a military base and a police check post. Being closer to the Pakistani and Chinese borders we could expect a lot more military traffic. We had three passes to traverse today, the first being Naki La at 4740m. The 10km climb up the Gata Loops, another awesome series of hairpins, took us to top where other than the fact you’d come over the brow and were now pointing down, blink and you’d miss it. I was expecting a bit of a Stupa, the whole shooting box but again it was marked with a small plaque shrouded in a tangle of dirty prayer flags. A rather attractive Indian lass in skin tight black leathers was just leaving on a 500cc Classic carrying every- thing but the kitchen sink. With a smile she was gone. Anyway, out with the t-shirt for another waypoint opportunity.Higher again, Lachung La, 5065m, was only an- other 10kms away whose lofty heights celebrated by another plaque draped with frayed flags. While the scenery, as ever, never disappointed, the road down from the top was pretty marginal at best and I was tin- gling again at the base. Pang provided an opportunity to stop for lunch where those with false teeth or prosthetics did a bit of a stock take. Bikes, bikes and more bikes parked in front of the many tented ca- fes and dhabas, loaded to the gunnels with camping equip- ment and spare fuel canisters. Most of the riders were Indi- ans. I wandered over and said hello and like me were in awe of this part of their country they’d never seen. From Pang we climbed to the Morey Plains that stretch for another 70odd clicks where I was told I may see herds of yaks, but today it was not to be. With two lanes of blacktop disappearing into the distance I let the Bullet clear her throat but even with injection she was struggling at a 100kph in the thinner air. I eased her back, happy to cruise at 80kms and just enjoy the wide open spaces. It was cold and I stopped to put the liner in my jacket, the only time in the entire trip I had to use it. This was more like it and a fitting celebration; several white painted stupas and a jungle of bright coloured flags draped everywhere. The sign at Tanglang La claims to be the world’s second high- est motorable pass, second to the road to Uturuncu in Potosi, Bolivia at 5,777m. Not so. Tanglang La at 5328m is in fact the 7 th highest in India; Dungri La at 5610m in Uttarakhand has that honour. But who’s counting, what’s a few meters between friends, eh? If I’d ridden my bike up the side of the hill behind the Stupa I could have claimed to have bested that and from the tracks it appears some have done just that. Next time, maybe. There were a number of vehicles of all description and motorbikes at the summit and people taking pho- tos. I was short of breath but it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. However if you’d asked me to drop and give you 20 it would have been a different story; you’d have been peeling me off the deck after 3 or 4. While altitude sickness is real and can be, well, deadly, in hindsight I think I’d got myself hyped up about the possible effects long before I stepped aboard the flight in Christchurch. I had been taking preventative meds but now I wonder how much of that was in my head? If nothing else, the placebo effect was work- ing so I kept taking them. Con’t Page 24

23 Hearing my accent a bloke from Charleston, came up and said G’day. Soon after an Indian from Auck- land took off his helmet. So this was it; what I’d come to do; to ride the Himalayas and to knock this bas- tard off. It was a great feeling and it was, as they say, all downhill from here. I was tingling again when I stopped at a Dhaba in Rumtse for a brew and a bowl of vege curry. A 4wd van had been playing chicken with several of us on the way down; just mad, crazy, abusive, bullying bullshit. When he got held up by slow traffic I got past and clear but no sooner had I stopped and taken my helmet off he came thundering through the settlement scattering locals in his wake. Unnecessary stuff.It was a short ride to Lato, a pic- turesque tiny hamlet and our homestay for the night and the end of another awesome day. Day 10 – Lato to Lamayuru: There was another permit check at Upshi. This was the start of the Indus River valley section of the ride and part of the ancient trading road heading east towards Tibet. The coun- try was more open here, the river valley floor green and fertile and there was also a large military pres- ence in the area. We passed numerous army bases and convoys through to Leh and Lamayuru. Just out of Upshi, I was pulled over and asked to pay a 20 rupee tourist tax but Samba arrived and ex- plained to the officer adorned with scrambled egg and gongs that it had been paid.The signs said the ‘Land of the Gompa ’ and Gompas there were, some perched so high on the tops if you weren’t looking for them you’d have missed them. Through Stakna, Thiksey and Shey, there were photo ops everywhere. The traffic as we entered Leh rivalled that of Hanoi but unlike the Vietnamese and their courtesy, here you throw politeness out the window. Gone was the meek and mild Captain; I was now just as bullish and pushy as the locals. Stick your front end in, toot hard and long, give the driver the old ‘slow-mo’ stare and don’t back down because give an inch they’ll take a mile. We regrouped on the other side of Leh before heading out of town where Jeev pointed out the military museum; our rendezvous point for tomorrow. The ride through to Lamayuru was one of the best days with stunning scenery, quant villages and plenty of time to stop and smell the roses at any of the village cafes along the way. It was harvest time and in some of these villages stacks of wheat or barley lined the road side. India is worried about their borders up here; the insidious Chinese encroachment on territory to the north and those ‘ bastard people ’ over the fence to the west and with the military presence in this area we were told to be careful where we pointed our cameras. A sign over a gate of one base claimed Fire and Fury ! I could have but didn’t; a photo of the sentry under the slogan not worth a time in a cell particularly having to share it with Khumar the Perspirer. Lamayuru was a picturesque hillside village dominated by the im- pressive Lamayuru or Yuru Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery right next door to the Niranjana guest house where we were staying. We were also back in WiFi range however connectivity was gov- erned by where you we sitting and how many people were trying to go on line. With patience and perse- verance you can stretch a hens’ arse over a bucket and I eventually got a few photos uploaded letting my family know I was still alive. I went walking; a herd of donkeys heading home, women moulding mud bricks left to dry in the sun, Jingle trucks belching black smoke climbing up the hill, smells of lamb or goat cooking and some kids whacking a cricket ball around.I wouldn’t say it was sadness, more melancholy I was feeling. Today was the penultimate day and tomorrow the ride back to Leh the end of the tour. I was feeling weary, the combination of altitude, poor sleep and challenging riding conditions had taken its toll. My patience limit was wearing thin too and I could hear my wife reminding me to ‘settle petal’ . Day 11 – Lamayuru to Leh: It was stinking hot when I pulled up outside the military museum and waited for Jeev and the mechanics to turn up and lead me, and the others who had also dribbled in, through a maze of narrow, dusty back streets of Leh to our hotel. The bikes had to be loaded onto a truck for the 16hour overnight trip to Manali where they’d be cleaned, serviced and repaired and back on hire within 24hours so I helped the boys ferry them through town to the yard where the truck was waiting. My Camelback, jacket, boots, trou and helmet were scrubbed under the shower and hung out to dry which in this heat didn’t take very long. With my go- ing home clobber sorted, items I was leaving behind given to Jeev to distribute, passport and flight details safely in order it was time to head downstairs for a beer.The farewell dinner was at an open restaurant, around an open fire with views across to far off peaks. A few beers later I was yawning, blinking away tiredness and I think for the first time since leaving Shimla I slept the sleep of the innocent; no gorgeous women, no donkeys and no plunges off precipitous cliffs. Some of the team were staying on in Leh, most were flying out to Delhi and from there to the four corners of the earth. We’d swapped emails vowing to keep in touch but I wonder if we really will. There’s always a few within any group you form an accord with and I will make the effort. My sincere thanks to Digby Greenhaugh of Explore Indochina for giving me this opportunity. To Chris deWagt and Mack McKercher of Motorbike Ventures Indochina; especially to Mack for his patience and guidance while on tour. To Jeev, Samba and the team at OMGHimalaya; lovely people and what a professional team they have. I was told I would find this tour life changing. It was but it was more than that; it opened my eyes to country, a people, a part of the world so vast, raw and remote. Bloody awesome! That’s about it in a nutshell. Chris ‘Captain Carefree’ Carey #3497.

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AVON CITY MOTORCYCLES 13 Epsom Rd, Sockburn, Christchurch 03 341 3490 or 0800 655 551 avoncitymotorcycles.co.nz

Calendar of Rides Rallies and Events This is a guide only, for the latest info on rides please visit the Ulysses Canterbury Web Site at : http://www.ulysses.org.nz/canterbury/ and click on ‘What’s On’ on the main menu. If you cannot use a computer or the Web, please contact any committee member who will assist you. Contact details are on Page 2.

Note --- unless stated below, ALL rides will leave from Z Curletts Road , or from the Belfast Tavern (usually known as The Peg). Sunday rides leave at 10.30 am , OR as stated below.'

Date Where to Details

Sunday 12th November Pike River Run.

EVERY WEDNESDAYDate Midweek Ride. Where to Meet at Avon City Motorcycles,Details 13 Epsom Rd, Never cancelled! Although Sockburn at 10.30 am, departure scheduled for occasionally on “inclement 11.00 am. Bring lunch a drink and a destination days” no one turns up!. suggestion, it’s all decided on the day!

Wednesday 15th Branch Social Evening Cashmere Club, Colombo St, starts sharp at 7.30 November pm. All welcome! Sunday 19th November Lake Brunner for lunch. .Meet at Z Curletts at 10.00 am, depart at 10.30 am.

Social Committee . Branch Christmas Party. 5.30-6.30 Meet and Greet-6.30 Buffet dinner! Buf- Friday 24th November. Tai Tapu Hotel, fet $45.00 for Non member. Members meals will be Confirmation required 780 Old Tai Tapu Rd, subsidised by $15.00 by the branch as per the Com- ASAP. Ph Jo 027 252 7562 or Tai Tapu. mittee minutes 01/08/17 Full details to be advised at Kevin 027 203 3025 a later date. Bar facilities on site. EFTPOS available! Friday 24th November Magpie Madness Rally . http://ttag.org.nz/magpie-rally-ttag-motorcycle- to Sunday 26th Winchester. Domain club/ for information November LAST SATURDAY OF Ladies Coffee Morning Venue- Anna’s Cafe Tower Junction. Gets underway EVERY MONTH . around 10.00 am and there’s no need to book, a ta- ble’s already reserved. Don’t need to be a member either or even related to one, all ladies are welcome Sunday 26th November Chequered Flag via inland Meet at Z Curletts at 10.00 am, depart at 10.30 am route. Friday 1st December to CAMs Motor Racing at Sunday 3rd December Levels

Sunday 3rd December Fairlie for a Pie On to Levels for those wishing to watch some Classic Action Racing. Meet at Z Curletts at 10.00 am, depart at 10.30 am.

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