Provence & the Côte D'azur

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Provence & the Provence & the Côte d’Azur Côte d’Azur Great Family Trips You’ll Remember Forever At last, a travel guide for families that tells you how it really is. See the best of everything, with expert advice from mums and dads that will give you the confidence to organise a fun and inspired trip. With Your Family has the inside knowledge for trouble-free breaks, full of memories to last a lifetime.

• Immerse yourself in lively street festivals • See hundreds of butterflies or visit a bird hotel

• Create your own unique perfume With Your Family • Discover works by famous artists including Picasso • Plus: the best attractions, food, drink and accommodation • Also: lots of evocative photos and regional maps

Frommer’s. The best trips start here. Visit us online at Frommers.com

UK £12.99 / US $18.99/CAN $22.99

® 2nd Edition Ivrea HHermillonermillon PPontont CCanaveseanavese

ValenceValence N91 AAurisuris N86 RRHONE-ALPESHONE-ALPES E70 A32 D111 PROVENCE N304 N91 E712 BBaixaix AAllexllex SSestriereestriere N75 AAmbelmbel & THE CÔTE CondillacCondillac N102 BBrianconriancon FRANCEF R A N C E N94 D'AZUR MMontelimarontelimar N85 N71 DDonzereonzere CCharensharens Alpes de Haute-Provence CCarmagnolaarmagnola LLayeaye (see chapter 9) CCavouravour E15 Avignon & the Vaucluse RRacconigiacconigi A6 CCanaleanale A7 (see chapter 8) GGapap BraBra AAiguezeigueze VVitrollesitrolles IITALYT A L Y VVerclauseerclause E712 LLakeake AlbaAlba PParisaris AAlesles N86 BBolleneollene SSerre-Ponconerre-Poncon FFRANCERANCE VVilledieuilledieu N75 A51 BBuscausca FossanoFossano CColognacolognac LLANGUEDOC-ANGUEDOC- D900 SR20 Area of LLyonyon OOrangerange JJausiersausiers CCarruarru detail RROUSSILLONOUSSILLON PPIEMONTEIEMONTE E74 DDoglianiogliani SSauzetauzet CCuneouneo TToulouseoulouse MMontont SS21 MondoviMondovi UUzeszes E15 AAubignanubignan PPROVENCE-ALPESROVENCE-ALPES N106 VentouxVentoux N100 CCÔTEÔTE DD’AZUR’AZUR Grasse & the Arrière-Pays CCevaeva N110 A9 SSt.-Géry-t.-Géry- NîmesNîmes AvignonAvignon LL'' IIsle-sur-sle-sur- DDigne-les-Bainsigne-les-Bains (see chapter 4) lla-Sorguea-Sorgue ddu-Fescu-Fesc AAigluniglun VViolaiola E80 E80 TTarasconarascon N100 N85 E15 N7 AAptpt E712 OOrmearmea MontpellierMontpellier A54 CCavaillonavaillon N100 A51 N202 AAnnotnnot AAuvareuvare TTendeende SSenasenas St.-GillesSt.-Gilles AArlesrles N202 E74 AArnascornasco A9 VVergonsergons PPerolserols N113 MManosqueanosque VVillars-sur-Varillars-sur-Var N204 LIGURIALIGURIA A54 A7 E80 N7 CCastellaneastellane TTriorariora AAlassiolassio SSt.-t.- BBonsononson FFrontignanrontignan SSalon-de-alon-de- CCannatannat DDianoiano G U N568 PProvencerovence SanSan MMarinaarina L F A8 O N113 N202 RemoRemo A10 F E80 VVenellesenelles L I N85 IImperiamperia O VVitrollesitrolles A80 N S GGrasserasse Aix-en-Aix-en- E80 Monte-CarloMonte-Carlo MMartiguesartigues ProvenceProvence A8 OOllieresllieres NiceNice MMONACOONACO A55 A8 E80 Monaco & the Nîmes & the Camargue CCadoliveadolive LLee MMuyuy (see chapter 7) N560 N7 CannesCannes French Riviera Coastline MMarseillearseille (see chapter 3) N7 FFrëjusrëjus CCassisassis E A CCarnoulesarnoules SSt.-Raphaélt.-Raphaél S N8 N SSte.-Maximete.-Maxime I A R LLaa CCiotatiotat U Marseille & Aix-en-Provence ToulonToulon I G N98 SSt.-Tropezt.-Tropez L (see chapter 6) HHyeresyeres 0 20 mi LLaa SSeyne-eyne- ssur-Merur-Mer N The Western Côte & Inland Var 0 40 km MMEDITERRANEANE D I T E R R A N E A N S ESEAA PPorquerollesorquerolles (see chapter 5) spine=12.288mm 10 8 UK US Europe 38 8 8 1 46 16 48 20 18 18 44 16 14 42 14 12 40 12 10 subtract 32andmultiply 100˚ F 110˚ F -20˚ F -10˚ F 10˚ F 20˚ F 32˚ F 40˚ F 50˚ F 60˚ F 70˚ F 80˚ F 90˚ F 0˚ F To convertCtoF: To convertFtoC: multiply by1.8 32˚ F=0˚C by and add32

5 6 36 country code: USA or Canada +1, UK +44, Ireland +353 To make an international call from Provence: USA or Canada 011 (+33) To dial Provence from another country: / 9 (.555) 0˚ C 10˚ C 20˚ C 30˚ C 40˚ C -10˚ C -30˚ C -18˚ C

UK 12 4 54 48 52 44 46 50 42 38 112 40 107 36 102 97 91 Kilograms topounds Pounds tokilograms Grams toounces Ounces tograms To convert kilometres tomiles miles tokilometres metres toyards yards tometres metres tofeet feet tometres centimetres toinches inches tocentimetres To convert Litres topints Pints tolitres Litres togallons Gallons tolitres To convert Metric (cm) 1ft=.30m 1 m=3.3ft 1 pound=.4555kilogram 1 kilogram=2.2pounds 1 ounce=28grams 1 gram=.04ounce v ......

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15 64 5 7 94 46 46 41 46 48 25 25 8 6 ...... 8 11 14 18 13 16 12 30 23 21 27 25 29 Provence & the Côte d’Azur

Louise Simpson & Robin Gauldie

A JohnA JohnWiley Wiley and Sons, and Sons, Ltd, PublicationLtd, Publication

01_683361-ffirs.indd i 11/1/10 2:03 PM Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England Telephone (+44) 1243 779777 Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): [email protected]. Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com

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5 4 3 2 1

01_683361-ffirs.indd ii 11/1/10 2:03 PM Contents

About the Author vi 4 Grasse & the An Additional Note vii Arrière-Pays 89 Visitor Information 91 1 Family Highlights of What To See & Do 92 Provence & the Côte Family-Friendly Dining 107 d’Azur 1 Family-Friendly Accommodation 110 Best Things To Do 2 Best Dining Options 11 5 The Western Côte & Best Accommodation 13 Inland Var 115 Visitor Information 117 2 Planning a Family Trip to What To See & Do 118 Provence & the Côte Family-Friendly Dining 132 d’Azur 15 Family-Friendly Accommodation 137 Visitor Information 18 Essentials 29 6 Marseille & Accommodation & Eating Out 40 Aix-en-Provence 141 The 21st-Century Traveller 47 Visitor Information 143 Fast Facts: Provence 49 What To See & Do 144 Family-Friendly Dining 160 3 Monaco & the Family-Friendly Accommodation 163 French Riviera 55 Visitor Information 57 What To See & Do 59 Family-Friendly Dining 79 Family-Friendly Accommodation 84

02_683361-ftoc.indd iii 11/1/10 2:03 PM 7 Nîmes & the 9 Alpes de Camargue 167 Haute-Provence 221 Visitor Information 169 Visitor Information 223 What To See & Do 170 What To See & Do 224 Family-Friendly Dining 186 Family-Friendly Dining 235 Family-Friendly Accommodation 189 Family-Friendly Accommodation 237

8 Avignon & the Index 239 Vaucluse 193 Visitor Information 195 What To See & Do 197 Family-Friendly Dining 213 Family-Friendly Accommodation 217

02_683361-ftoc.indd iv 11/1/10 2:03 PM List of Maps

Provence & the Côte d’Azur 16 Aix-en-Provence 147 Monaco & the French Riviera 56 Marseille 149 Cannes 64 Nîmes & the Camargue 168 Monaco 66 Arles 174 Nice 67 Nîmes 175 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays 90 Avignon & the Vaucluse 194 The Western Côte & Inland Var 116 Avignon 199 St.-Tropez 122 Alpes de Haute-Provence 222 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence 142

02_683361-ftoc.indd v 11/1/10 2:03 PM About the Author

Lead author Louise Simpson is a travel writer based in Southern France. Having studied French and Spanish at Cambridge University, she worked for a decade in London as a PR director for two leading travel PR agencies and as a writer for numerous UK newspapers and magazines including The Independent on Sunday, Vogue, Timesonline and Financial Times. She moved to Provence eight years ago, where she lives with her husband and two children. She has co-written this book with Robin Gauldie. Robin first visited Southern France in 1972 and has returned almost every year since then, exploring every corner of the region. As a result, he could now drive most of Provence’s winding mountain roads blindfold, but prefers not to. He spends part of each year in a ramshackle house in a tiny mountain village, from which he makes frequent forays in search of great places to eat and drink and things to do. A regular contributor to many British newspapers and magazines, Robin is the author of more than 20 guidebooks to destinations around the world, including France.

Acknowledgements Special thanks are due to my husband, Jason, who shares my passion for food, travel and France. His patient support, as well as his food- tasting, pillow-testing and even proof-reading skills have proved invaluable to this book. This book would never have happened without my dear friend, travel writer and editor par excellence, Anna Goldrein, or without the wise advice and understanding ear of Mark Henshall – our editor on this project. Eternal gratitude is due to my parents for introducing me to Provence, to my parents-in-law for their ongoing support, to all my wonderful friends from the Mother-and-Baby group for sharing their advice and travel tips and to Fabrice at Chez Pascal in Beausoleil for keeping Jason, Alexandra, Charlie and me well-fed at all times. Robin and I would like to give additional thanks to all those who have given their support over the course of this book including: Jill Emeny, Sally Smith and Karen Hamilton.

Dedication To my lifelong travel companions – Jason, Alexandra and Charlie. vi

03_683361-flast.indd vi 11/1/10 2:04 PM An Additional Note

Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star rating system, we also use 5 feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences. Throughout the book, look for: FIND Special finds – those places only insiders know about MOMENT Special moments – those experiences that memories are made of VALUE Great values – where to get the best deals OVERRATED Places or experiences not worth your time or money GREEN Attractions employing responsible tourism policies

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DC Diners Club MC MasterCard V Visa

vii

03_683361-flast.indd vii 11/1/10 2:04 PM And the amenities: Airconditioning Jacuzzi/Hot Tub/Whirlpool Baby Changing Laundry Facilities Babysitting Lockers Bar Microwave BF Breastfeeding Minibar Buggy rental Picnic Area Café Play Area Car Park Pool - Children’s Car Park – Free Pool - Indoor Car Park - Paid Pool - Outdoor Children’s Club Restaurant Children’s Menu Reservations Cinema Safe Cots Available Shop Cycle Hire Shower DVD Shuttle Bus Fitness Centre Snack Bar Fridge Spa Facilities Full Kitchen Sports Games Tennis Courts Garden TV Garden Centre Washer/Dryer Golf Watersports Rental High Chairs Equipment Internet Access Wheelchair Access iPod Docking Wheelchair Rental A Note on Prices In the Family-Friendly Accommodation section of this book we have used a price category system.

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places – hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please email: [email protected] or write to:

Frommer’s Provence & the Côte d’Azur With Your Family, 2nd Edition John Wiley & Sons, Ltd The Atrium Southern Gate Chichester viii West Sussex, PO19 8SQ

03_683361-flast.indd viii 11/1/10 2:04 PM Photo Credits

© Louise Simpson: p. 13, p. 73, p. 85, p. 97, p. 99, p. 105, p. 107, p. 113. © Photos to Go: p. 3, p. 4, p. 12, p. 96, p. 176, p. 200. © Victoria Trott: p. 9, p. 121, p. 141, p. 158, p. 159, p. 171, p. 189. © www.sargasso-travelimages.co.uk: p. 205, p. 213, p. 239.

Alamy: p. 7 (© Alex Segre); p. 100 (© the box studio); p. 103 (© Andia); p. 124 (© Porquerolles -niceartphoto); p. 131 (© Jaubert Bernard); p. 151 (© David Kilpatrick); p. 153 (© Yadid Levy); p. 154 (© Chris Hellier). PCL: p. 5, p. 70, p. 148, p. 180, p. 221 (© Yann Guichaoua); p. 6, p. 202 (© David Noble); p. 8, p. 167, p. 193, p. 230, p. 233 (© Gregory Wrona); p. 93 (© John Miller); p. 115 (© David Barnes); p. 181 (© Didier Zylberyng); p. 207 (© Albert B Knapp); p. 216 (© John Lawrence); p. 227 (© Brian Lawrence).

Photolibrary: p. 89 (© Doug Pearson); p. 235 (© Camille Moirenc – Photononstop). TTL: p1, p. 59 (© John Lawrence); p. 15, p. 185 (© David Noton); p. 55 (© Chris Parker); p. 88 (© Frank Fell); p. 173 (© John Mackie).

03_683361-flast.indd ix 11/1/10 2:04 PM 03_683361-flast.indd x 11/1/10 2:04 PM 1 Family Highlights of Provence & the Côte d’Azur

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2 1 Family Highlights Best FreeFamilyExperiences BEST THINGSTODO E across ProvenceandtheCôted’Azurforthisnewedition. writer RobinandIofferyouourtried-and-testedrecommendations with thepurchaseofa150-million-year-oldreptilecalled Anna. Oceanographic MuseuminMonacocelebratedits100th anniversary Musée PicassoinAntibes,underwenttop-to-toerenovations. The Museum inGrasse,FondationMaeghtSt.-PauldeVence and museums acrosstheregion,suchasInternationalPerfume with year-roundsnow,maternitydenandseawaterpool.Much-loved Marineland’s 3.5€millionstate-of-the-artpolarbearhome,complete Théâtre modelledonthecity’sancientRomanamphitheatre,and bowling alleyandrooftopskatingrink,Fréjus’sneotericForum Monaco’s spaceageNiBoxentertainmentcomplexcompletewith dreamed upbyZahaHadidandfilmdirectorLucBesson. new railterminalandport,withcutting-edgearchitecturaldesigns urban regenerationprojectisunderwayinMarseillewithplansfora Epoque landmarksanditshigh-techtramway.Europe’slargest-ever former isrecapturingitsGoldenAgewiththerestorationofBelle ern France,inparticulartoitstwincapitals,NiceandMarseille.The cheese wrappedinchestnutleavesfromBanon. Nice; almond-flavouredcalissonsinAix-en-Provence;andgoats’ Local delicacieswillkeepgourmandshappy:pancake-likesoccain can takeadvantageofthethemeparksandadventureplaygrounds. ing, canyoningandwhite-waterrafting;anyonewithyoungerchildren region. Activitiesforsportingfamiliesvaryfromtree-climbingtosail- Matisse, Picasso,Chagall,CézanneandRenoiringalleriesacrossthe crowds intheCamargue.Artloverscanadmireworksbylikesof d’Azur’s sandybeaches,orthelong,untamedcoastlinefarfrom ers canchoosebetweenwatersportsandposhnoshontheCôte this southernFrenchregiontofiteveryfamily’sagenda.Beachcomb- beaches borderingthedazzling-blueMediterranean,there’sacornerof remote lavenderfieldsofHauteProvencetothecheek-by-jowlgolden bright-blue Mediterranean Sea. bright-blue Mediterranean Sea. for free:thesunshineand two oftheregion’sbestattractions from yourbeachtoweltoenjoy You don’thavetoraiseyourhead The newdecadehasbroughtrenovationandinnovationtosouth- From newdiscoveriestolong-runningfamilyfavourites,my co- Contemporary architecturehasbeenshowcasedinrecentopenings: sun-kissed charmsofProvenceandtheCôted’Azur. veryone, fromtheRomanstoCocoChanel,hasfallenfor

gorges offeringwatersports. flora andfaunaabound,aswell as Verdon andLuberon,whererare three nationalparks,Mercantour, Marseille andCassistotheregion’s white are treatsgalore:fromthestriking But whenyoudolookup,there Calanques

(p. 149) between (p. 149) between Fromthe 11/1/10 2:04 PM Best Things To Do

No trip would be complete without smelling freshly cut lavender at a market

Da Vinci Code addicts can be it a flower, fruit and vegetable explore the mystery of Mary Mag- market or a full-on affair with live dalene’s remains at La Basilique chickens and fluffy bunnies. They Ste.-Marie-Madeleine (p. 127), can be a revelation to British chil- while no museum in Provence dren used to being trailed around is more child-friendly than boring supermarkets. Marseille’s Préau des Accoules Best Attractions for Teens (p. 156), where tots to teens can Keep active teenagers busy with learn about artists and even create every imaginable watersport their own masterpieces. along the French Riviera coast- Fit in a free visit to a working line and the Giens Peninsula— glass-blowing factory where the famous for its windsurfing sight of men in shorts and sandals champions. Further inland, blowing on molten glass down Haute Provence and the Alpes- the end of long metal pipes is Maritimes are home to the entertainment for all ages. Cris- Gorges du Verdon (p. 228), tallerie des Papes (p. 208) in the Gorges de Saorge (p. 101) Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and Verre- near Breuil-sur-Roya, and the rie de Biot (p. 103) turn red-hot Gorges de Daluis (p. 101) in molten blobs into glassware of the Vallée de la Tinée. With their surprising beauty and complexity. waterfalls and jaw-dropping A must for all kids who’ve descents, these gorges are perfect read Roald Dahl’s Charlie and for rafting, canyoning, aquatic the Chocolate Factory, traditional hiking, canoeing, tubing, hot dog, sweet factory Confiserie Florian kayaking or swimming in rapids. (p. 101) in Tourrettes-sur-Loup The best place for biking, lets you watch its workers hand- karting and all things related dipping fruit into orange- (p. 211) is the Vaucluse. Vroom coloured chocolate. around the vineyards near Bedoin No trip to Provence would be with Découverte du Terroir en complete without rummaging for Buggy, hire bikes in Avignon lemons and smelling lavender in a with Holiday Bikes or race down market (p. 79, 106, 133, 160, the piste in a soapbox-style cart 185, 212, and 236). Most towns with Devalkart. Meanwhile, the have their own produce market, 3

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4 1 Family Highlights Tortues near Toulonand Daredevils cantryoutkayaking (p. Beaugensiers Farm Best AttractionsforToddlers in pools. nesting, incubatingandbathing toddler sonloveswatchingthem sick orabandonedturtles.My favourite is of itsfamouswhitehorses.Our world’s bestriding,onthebacks Camargue offerssomeofthe kids isatriptofarm: A sure-firewinnerforyoung day at the Var’s turtles aretheorderof and babychicks.Meanwhile, perfect placestocooatrabbits Air Cinema Monaco Ville’srockatthe English) splashedupagainst a Hollywoodblockbuster(in iera, teenagerswilllovewatching AfterabusydayontheRiv- rides forlittleones. (p. 183), with30-minutepony Ficelle

216) intheVaucluseare (p. 97) nearVence, (p. 125)—arefugefor Ranch LaBrouzetière (p. 61). Village des Oiselet Farm (p. 140) Graine & Open

The (p. 156) nearAix-en-Provence. way toexplorecitieswithtoddlers. all overtheregionarealsoaneasy (p. Heracle’s CookingSchool try chocolatedessertsat day iswithakids’cookeryclass: Anotherwaytopassarainy ners forolder kids. Marseille are easyindoorwin- iera andLaserGames (p. 150)in and MonacoontheFrenchRiv- (p. 72) inNice,Antibes,Cannes tional Provençalcuisineat (p. 102) nearVenceortradi- Rainy Days Best IndoorActivitiesfor dlers is Anotherperfectplacefortod- de laCuisinedesFleurs when itrains,makingthemthe caves (p. 96)aremostbeautiful Motorised with stations,roadsandvillages. scale-model landscapescomplete trains putterthroughagardenof Carpentras, where25miniature 77, 132, 157, 182, and 209) 77, 132,157,182,and209) Jarditrain Grottes deSt.-Cézaire Little TouristTrains Bowlingalleys (p. 201)near L’Atelier Marc

11/1/10 2:04 PM

Best Things To Do

Roman Arles

perfect wet-weather destination. mimosa (p. 119) is celebrated At nearby Parfumerie Molinard in towns along the Var coastline (p. 102), kids (aged 4 and up) between January and March. who have dreamed of designing Families spending Christmas in their own perfume can take the Var can see puppet shows and 30-minute workshops culminat- dancing displays at the Children’s ing in the presentation of a Festival in Hyères (p. 93). diploma and a bottle of their Street festivals in Sisteron will personally designed perfume. keep children entertained with dancing, singing and theatrical Best Child-friendly Events performances; in Mornas, time- Whatever time of year you’re travel is the order of the day planning to visit, local events with summer historical recon- can add colour to your trip: structions at the 13th-century www.discoversouthoffrance.com Mornas Castle (p. 197), during has event listings covering the which older children can take whole region. Some of Europe’s part in demonstrations of sword- most popular festivals take place play and quarterstaff combat. in Southern France: flower parades at the Nice Carnaval Best Cities, Towns & Resorts (p. 61); lemon floats at Men- Vibrant Marseille (p. 148) and ton’s Fête du Citron (p. 62); the Nice (p. 64) are filled with Festival d’Avignon (p. 198), world-class museums, art galleries with its classical music; and the and restaurants. Glitzy St.-Tropez Riviera’s jazz festivals (p. 62) in (p. 120) and Monaco (p. 63) Nice and Juan-les-Pins. host A-list celebrities, Ferraris and Grasse is famous for its flower yachts complete with helipads. festivals—its May Expo Rose Beach resorts such as Fréjus (p. 93) and August Jasmine (p. 121), Antibes (p. 62) and Festival—while winter-flowering Ste.-Maxime (p. 120) offer Blue 5

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6 1 Family Highlights coastline ofthe mend thebeautiful,wind-swept far fromthecrowds,I’drecom- Calanques beautiful (p. favourites; amongoursare is allabout.You’llfindyourown dropping viewsarewhatProvence esque hilltopvillageswithjaw- Juan-les-Pins sible onlybyboat)along the tinysecludedbeaches(acces- Best Beaches Tourtour Gordes Best HilltopVillages Aix-en-Provence Gordes the BlueFlagbeachesin Côte d’Azur.Ourfavourites are should headtobeachesalong the restaurants andstripedrecliners nience ofchildren’splayareas, Thosewholiketheconve- Inland highlightsincludearty bags offamily-focusedactivities. Flag golden-sandbeachesand (p. 96), Roman 94) and (p. Colmars Arles

Avignon (p. Roussillon 203), (p. 149). 120); (p. 173)and and Ifyoulongtobe Camargue (p. Mons (p. 146), Mougins (p. 199). Fréjus 226), 226), Pictur- (p. (p. Antibes Les 203). Cabris . 123), 123), and

Regional NaturalPark National Park nature reserves,the ers. OneofFrance’snewest butterflies andmountainflow- (p. 204) arehometorarebirds, Île St.-Honorat Îles desLérins Best NaturalAttractions Luberon RegionalNatural coastline: the boasts the terrifying but impressive boasts theterrifying butimpressive Leonardo DiCaprio),whilethe (subject ofa1998filmstarring of theManinIronMask Ifyou’restayinginland,you liqueurs forparentaldelectation. duce finewinesandpotent to theLérinsmonks,whopro- mountainous reserves; theAlpes-Maritimes’s beauty ofProvence’snature can enjoytheundisturbed rite take adaytriptothebeautiful all ontheFrenchRivierashould ilies wantingtogetawayfromit cloaked valleysoftheV while thewoodlandsandcedar- for endangeredfloraandfauna, (p. 68)housestheprisoncell Île Ste.Margue- Mercantour (p. 98)isahaven offtheCannes (p. 68)ishome Verdon (p. 229), aucluse’s aucluse’s Park Fam- 11/1/10 2:04 PM

Verdon Gorges (p. 228) and the near Avignon, where more Best Things To Do shimmering Lac de Ste.-Croix. than 400 rare crocodiles keep Children also love learning company with giant tortoises about wolves at Scénoparc and tropical birds in a huge (p. 104) in St.-Martin Vésubie greenhouse. or taking the themed Train des Aquariums worth a detour Merveilles (p. 98) on a day trip include the Camargue’s to see the prehistoric rock Seaquarium (p. 177) in Le engravings in the Vallée des Grau-du-Roi, where highlights Merveilles (p. 103). include a shark tunnel and bask- ing sea lions, and the subterra- Best Animal Attractions nean aquarium at Monaco’s Provence is rich in creepy- Oceanographic Museum crawlies: my favourite place to (p. 73), where my toddler son learn about them is the home of loves the knobbly seahorses. the Vaucluse’s insect man, Jean- Henri Fabre (p. 204). There are Best Gardens Menton is famed also hundreds of wriggling cater- for its gardens (p. 71), while pillars and butterflies to explore neighbouring Monaco has at the Jardin des Papillons immaculately tended public (p. 228) in Haute Provence. spaces such as the Roseraie In the Camargue, there’s the Princesse Grace (p. 71). Parc Ornithologique du Pont de You and the kids can learn Gau (p. 176)—a ‘bird hotel’ that about Mediterranean flora and looks after thousands of flamin- fauna at the Forest Eco-museum gos, egrets and other migrating (p. 152) near Aix-en-Provence; birds, as well as taking in injured English-language booklets are specimens. More unusual is the available to guide you around Ferme aux Crocodiles (p. 203) the forest trails.

Yellow submarine outside the Oceanographic Museum, Monaco

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8 1 Family Highlights des Pâpes to beatthe14th-century In nearbyAvignon,there’slittle the oldestdukedominFrance. which isownedandlivedinby pink palazzoof even moresplendidviews,the Withsplendidgardensand Gothic palaceintheworld. top grandeur:it’sthelargest the and Provence’sbestexampleis Everyone lovesafairytalecastle, ies Best Museums&ArtGaller- lage desBories de Rothschild Best Castles&HistoricSites Palais desPâpes bits mightholiday,visitthe Ifyouwanttoseewherehob- its themedgardens. language treasurehuntaround aces; childrenlovetheEnglish- Riviera’s finestBelleEpoquepal- Jean–Cap-Ferrat isoneofthe Gordes, whereyou’llfindtiny, cluse astoolshedsandshelters. used tobebuiltallovertheVau- beehive-like stonehousesthat Ifyouplanto visitjustone Château d’Uzès (p. 206)forover-the- (p. 74)inSt.- Villa Ephrussi (p. 207)in (p. 179), Palais Vil-

Ferme duFarWest dation Maeght largest marinepark, On theFrenchRiviera,Europe’s Haute Provenceisthe Thedon’t-missmuseum in Hopper. Rothko, Kandinsky,Picassoand ing workbyDufy,Signac, spanning 1900to1960includ- (p. 154), whichhasacollection and Marseille’s ing Braque,SignacandMatisse; painted. rabbits andhavingtheirfaces toddlers willlovegazingat the hand atlivingStoneAgestyle. village wherekidscantrytheir by boatandtoanarchaeological trail totheBaumeBonnegrotto Foster, whichoffersathemed ish architectLord(Norman) ciade Museum make itSt.-PauldeVence’s art museumduringyourtrip, Best ThemePark/WaterPark include St.-Tropez’sairy for kidstosee20th-centuryart Otherworld-classmuseums masterpieces. your childrentocreatetheirown art-filled gardenmaywellinspire gall andMatisse,whereits 20th-century greatssuchasCha- you canintroduceyourkidsto adventure farm, home. Attheneighbouring opened 3.5€millionrefrigerated polar bearsintheirnewly phin shows,youcanvisittwo well asalargeaquariumanddol- choice forafamilydayout:as (p. 70) inAntibes,isanobvious don Préhistoire desGorgesduVer- (p. 230), designedbyBrit- (p. 129),boast- Musée Cantini (p. 99), where La Petite (p. 70), Marineland Musée de Annon- Fon-

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Best Things To Do Best Outdoor Activities Fami- local environment through lies who want to play at being guided walks and snorkelling. Tarzan and Jane will love the Best Confectioners Scoffing Indian Forest Sud (p. 158) near sweet treats is one of the indul- Parc Arbres et Aven- Martigues, gences of being on holiday, and tures (p. 233) near Comars or Provence is one of Europe’s best Passerelle des Cîmes the spots for confectioners. Among (p. 210) in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, our favourites are Les Caprices with rope bridges connecting de Marine (p. 185) in Arles, La trails of varying height and Maison de la Tarte (p. 132) in difficulty. Fréjus, Patrick Mesiano (p. 78) Lovers of heights should try in Nice and Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Via Ferrata (p. 106)—a form of and Léonard Parli (p. 159), rock climbing along iron-rung where you can taste Aix-en- ladders that allows beginners to Provence’s famous calisson. scale dramatic rock faces usually In addition, make sure you fol- only attempted by experts—in low locals to La Cure Gourmande the Alpes-Maritimes hinterland. (p. 184), a celebrated traditional Going underground, there’s a biscuit- and chocolate-maker with subterranean form of Via Ferrata shops across Provence. near Caille, where you scale cave ceilings to explore stalactites. Best Shopping You won’t go If you can face waking up at far in western Provence without dawn, the best way to admire the coming across santons (clay figu- lavender fields and olive groves rines); a good place to both see of Haute Provence is from a hot- them being made and buy them air balloon (p. 233)—they were is Santons Fouque (p. 159) in invented by the French, after all. Aix-en-Provence. Another must For an eco-friendly way to in western Provence is Les Indi- explore Marseille’s coastline, ennes de Nîmes in Nîmes contact Naturoscope (p. 158), (p. 185), Arles and Avignon, who introduce families to the that specialises in colourful

Artichokes on a market stall, Aix-en-Provence

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10 1 Family Highlights don’t miss Intheperfume capital,Grasse, for totstoteensalongthesmart You’llfind moreprettyclothes for kids from2up. Provençal fabricsandclothes Rue d’Antibes Chocolat toPetitBateau grances, andnearby for ducksoapsandchildren’sfra- Maison dren’s labelsfrom home toallthechicFrenchchil- Savonnerie du DuchéChantois opened sweet smellsincludethenewly and cuddlytoys.Otherhavens of Langue d’Oc—The LanguageofPoetry 19th-century French/Occitandictionary Grassoise poetLouisBellaud,andFrédéricMistral,whowrotethe was keptalivethroughthecenturiesbywritersandpoetssuchas should bethelanguageofallFrance,Occitanwaned.However,it After the1539EdictofVillers-CotterêtsruledthatParisianFrench Raimbaut d’Orange,ComtessedeDieandVaqueiras. tion. FamoustroubadoursinProvenceincludedFolquetdeMarseille, women withsongswritteninOccitanthatspokeoftheirpatientdevo- dours. Mastersintheartofcourtlylove,theseknightswooedvirtuous established throughthesuccessof12th-centurypoets—thetrouba- and Spain).HavingevolvedfromVulgarLatin,thelanguagebecame Monaco andsouthernFranceasfartheDordogne,northernItaly Occitan, or are talkingabout,orwethinkdo. many glassesofvind’orangelater,wefinallyunderstandwhatthey Provençal, aregionaldialectbasedonOccitan.Fiveyearsand that our80-year-oldneighbourslacedtheirFrenchphraseswith understanding them.Itwasn’tjustourrustyFrench:welaterrealised elderly neighbourswonderedwhywewerehavingsuchdifficulty in theProvençalcountryside,andintroducingourselvestoour again. Morethanadecadelater,myhusbandandIboughthouse unlikely evertocomeacrossthisancientsouthern-Frenchlanguage favoured subject,butIconsoledmyselfwiththethoughtthatwas When IwasstudyingFrenchandSpanish,Occitanmyleast- for embroidered toy bags forembroideredtoybags Nature etSenteurs— Fragonard (p. (an area covering Oc, wasspokenalloverOccitania(anareacovering 79) in Cannes, 79) inCannes, Tartine et Fragonard Fragonard (p. 106), 106), .

(p. 78) inCannes, (p. 184) inUzès. Sorgue, range andname-inscribedsoaps, (p. and (p. 77) inNice’sOldTown and Botté toys: sure trovesoftraditionalwooden favourites arealldiminutivetrea- comes totoyshops,andour Smallisbeautifulwhenit fumes andcosmetics. in Sisteron,fullofaromaticper- Lou TresordóuFelibrige. 186) in Uzès, with its organic 186) inUzès,withitsorganic Au BoisdeMonCoeur Magie duParfum En sortantdel’école (p. 212) inIsle-sur-la- Chez TometLéa Le Chat (p. 235)

11/1/10 2:05 PM Best Dining Options

Since 2005, interest in this long-forgotten language has been revived through demonstrations against the illegal status of Occitan within France in Carcassonne, Montpellier and Béziers, as well as the annual Estivada festival in Rodez, celebrating Occitan language and culture. You’re most likely to see Provençal on restaurant signs: look out for Lou (the) before the restaurant name. See if you can spot any of the following on your travels: Lou Pèbre d’Aï (savoury), Lou Fassum (a cabbage-based recipe), Lou Pitchoun (‘little one’) or Lou Pistou (a garlic, basil and tomato-based sauce). You may even come across Lou Cigalon—an ironic reference to the 1935 film by Marcel Pagnol about a restaurant owner who is an excellent chef but refuses to serve his customers until his former employee opens another restaurant nearby. Some Occitan words are very similar to their English counter- parts or easily recognisable to Anglophones: Animal Animal Apology Excusa Castle Castèl Colour Color Intelligent Intelligent Gift Present Question Question Rare Rare Village Vilatge Waterfall Cascade

If you’ve run out of holiday don’t naturally go hand-in-hand, reading, English-language Book there are a few places worth trying in Bar (p. 159) in Aix-en- if your youngsters are fairly adven- Provence and English Book Cen- turous. At Michelin-starred Les tre (p. 106) in Valbonne should Terraillers (p. 108) in Biot, kids bridge the gap. You can introduce (up to 10) can design their own children to Astérix at The Comic three-course menu for 25€. Strips Café (p. 77) in Antibes, Best Fish Restaurant The har- which sells comic books galore. bourside La Poissonnerie Lau- rent (p. 161) in Cassis has been run by the same fishing family for BEST DINING 150 years; children are well OPTIONS catered for with an 8.60€ menu featuring fresh fish and vegetables. Best Fine Dining Although fam- Best Vegetarian Food Italian ily dining and gastronomic cuisine owner (and chef) Marco 11

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12 1 Family Highlights Pêcheurs decorated valet service. swimming togsandevenacar beach hutstochangeintoyour trees. Therearecomfyrecliners, served beneathacanopyofpine of grilledmeat,fishandsalads d’Antibes, offersastylishmenu Pins, overlookingtheCap trip fortheirviewsalone,while (p. Auberge duPointSublime Best AlfrescoDining Best BeachRestaurant Choosing aflavouroficecreamisalwaysdifficultdecision extra). always seemstoaddacouple the evening(towhichMarco courses atlunchtimeandfourin there aresetmenusofthree dren 10andundereatfree, of wall-to-wallpumpkins.Chil- Nice withaHallowe’entheme in Bananier and (p. 108) in Gourdon are worth a 108) inGourdonarewortha 235) near the Verdon Gorges 235) neartheVerdonGorges La TaverneProvençale (p. (p. 82)inJuan-les- Zucca Magica 187) inUzès,

The The (p. 81)

Café Café Les

Le Le Arles and du Potager Best EthnicRestaurant La Chassagnette des Arcades Best Crêperie garden-fresh produce, our tips are garden-fresh produce,ourtipsare ished. Foridyllicterracediningon around afterthemarkethasfin- squares wherechildrencanrun Tropez areseton traffic-free sine isValbonne’s your childrentoMoroccancui- Agoodplacetointroduce the flamencosingers. glitterati, wholovetolisten ular hangoutforthebullfighting at without tastingtapas,preferably go toIberian-influencedNîmes bonne and furniture andsuitablylowchairs. (p. 108), withitshand-painted are visit toacrêperie:worthdetour to Brittany,minustherain,with a La Bodeguita La Crêperiedu VieuxPort Restaurant à Deux Pas Restaurant àDeuxPas Le Café (p. (p. Transport yourself Transportyourself 214) inAvignon. 107) in Val- (p. 186),apop- (p. Le Pigeot (p. 188) in 188) in 85) inSt.- Don’t

11/1/10 2:05 PM (p. 133) in St.-Raphaël, with more not-to-be-missed views include Best Accommodation than 20 pancake fillings, La Crêpe Parc du Pharo (p. 163) near au Carré (p. 161) in Marseille, for Marseille’s Vieux Port, looking excellent galettes (savoury pan- towards the Château d’If and the cakes) and ice creams, and Les 2 Îles du Frioul, and the Parc du Suds (p. 188) in Arles, with its Château (p. 82) in Nice, with flower-filled garden. its man-made waterfall, play areas and rope web. In Orange, Best Ice cream Stops The the St.-Eutrope hill (p. 217) is a competition for Provence’s best shady picnic spot with views for ice cream is stiff, but our top miles from the ancient Roman choices are the sundaes and theatre towards the Dentelles de unusual flavours such as fig Montmirail mountain range. and plum at Arles’s Soleileis (p. 189), Brasserie Beau Rivage (p. 162) in Marseille, with yummy (if not very French) BEST Snickers flavour, and the white ACCOMMODATION chocolate ice cream at Barbarac (p. 136) in St.-Tropez. Old- Best Luxury Accommodation timer Fenocchio (p. 85) in Nice The most family-friendly luxury offers a mind-boggling range of hotel along the Riviera is the flavours, and Glacier Gelato- Royal Riviera (p. 85) in show (p. 215) in Orange sells St.-Jean–Cap-Ferrat. As well granita in more colours than as children’s menus, intercon- there are in the rainbow. necting rooms, a cordoned Best Scenic Picnic Spots swimming pool and a private Pretty castle gardens with beach, it offers younger guests

Orion Bed & Breakfast

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14 1 Family Highlights well-regarded restaurant. there’s aswimmingpooland hotel: aswellitsridingstables, ing theluxuriesofafour-star Camargue experienceyetdesir- families seekinganauthentic Cavalière The gorgeous and water-skiing. complimentary gifts,tabletennis as the set withinflowergardens,such loaded withProvençalstyleand in theregionareoldfarmhouses Regional NaturalPark. hotel withintheVerdon by olivegroves—it’stheonly former olive-oilmillsurrounded (p. 237) inHauteProvence,a Clos desCypres Best B&B Secrets Best-kept Accommodation (p. 219) and the outskirtsofGrasse. Naturel MoulinduChâteau de Vence, Intheback-country’sSt.-Paul studios withuptothreebedrooms. tastefully decoratedself-catering the beachfrontLaCroisette,with apartment hotelminutesfrom the breaking thebank,checkinat (p. 218) intheVaucluseand much betterthanthe back tonature,itdoesn’tget Forfamilieswantingtohead swimming poolandterrace. 18th-century stables apartments setinwhitewashed its 17air-conditionedroomsand attracts families-in-the-knowwith Villa d’Estelle Mas delaPierreduCoq To enjoy Cannes without ToenjoyCanneswithout (p. 191)isidealfor Le Hameau OurfavouriteB&Bs La Sommellerie Auberge (p. 111)on (p. 86),an around a Hotel au (p. 113)

Camping L’International campsites, notablytheconvivial HauteProvencehasexcellent stone housesandwoodenchalets. choose betweenself-catering Luberon RegionalNaturalPark; located forexploringthe an eco-friendlyparadise. (p. 113) inSt.-PauldeVenceis the friendly Ona5-hectaresitenear Apt, miniclub. ground andasummertime dren’s pool,tabletennis,aplay- volleyball, agamesroom,chil- amused, includingtenniscourts, plus plentytokeepyoungsters offers mobilehomesandchalets, inland to from thecrowdsshouldhead Anyone lookingtogetaway next toMarinelandthemepark. painting totreasurehunts. dren’s entertainmentfromface- IntheheartofCamargue, (p. 111) inAuribeau-sur-Siagne. and with familiesfromacrossEurope, (p. Camping CrinBlanc du Pylone Best Campsite dation Best Eco-friendlyAccommo- Luberon Castellane plants, through stonesandaquatic and anoutdoorpoolfiltered tered aroundaforestedgarden the FrenchRivierais singing, all-dancingcampsiteon 238), where you can have fun 238), whereyoucanhavefun Camping LesCollinesde Withtreehousesscat- Orion Bed&Breakfast (p. 220)isperfectly Parc desMonges (p. 87)inAntibes, (p. 238), withchil- Camping Le Thebestall- (p. 192) Camping

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2 Planning a Family Trip to Provence & the Côte d’Azur

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16 2 Planning a Family Trip

PROVENCE &THECÔTED’AZUR

G G

Nîmes &theCamargue

U U

N106

L L Ales Ales

Toulouse

(see chapter7) F F N110

Sauzet Sauzet

Area of

detail O O E80

FRANCE

F F

L L St.-Gilles St.-Gilles

N106

I I LANGUEDOC- LANGUEDOC- ROUSSILLON ROUSSILLON

N102

Paris O O

N Lyon

S S

Nîmes Nimes E80 A54 Uzes Uzes Thueyts Thueyts Vinezac Vinezac Aigueze Aigueze N113 Arles Arles Aubenas Aubenas Marseille &Aix-en-Provence N86 A9 Tarascon Tarascon N102 Donzere Donzere E15 N580 N568 Montelimar Montelimar N100 A54 (see chapter6) Bollene Bollene E80 Avignon Avignon A7 E15 N71 N304 Martigues Martigues Baix Baix Orange Orange N7 Senas Senas Provence Provence Salon-de- Salon-de- MarseilleMarseille VitrollesVitrolles N86 N113 A E S N A E N A R R E T I D E M MEDITERRANEAN SEA Condillac Condillac E714 Cavaillon Cavaillon A7 Allex Allex A55 Villedieu Villedieu N100 la-Sorgue L' Isle-sur- la-Sorgue L' Isle-sur- Aubignan Aubignan D111 N7 D994 A8 St.-Cannat St.-Cannat Valence E80 Avignon &theVaucluse Cadolive Cadolive La Ciotat La Ciotat Ventoux Ventoux FRANCE E C N A R F Cassis Cassis Mont Mont (see chapter8) RHONE-ALPES RHONE-ALPES La Seyne-sur-Mer La Seyne-sur-Mer Verclause Verclause Provence Aix-en- Provence Aix-en- Apt Apt Venelles Venelles A49 Charens Charens A8 N8 Manosque Manosque N560 11/1/10 2:05 PM N100 Toulon Toulon Ollieres Ollieres E712 E80 E712 A51 N75 Carnoules Porquerolles Hyeres Vitrolles Aiglun PROVENCE-ALPES CÔTE D’AZUR CÔTE Ambel Gap Laye Ste.-Maxime Digne-les-Bains Castellane St.-Tropez Auris Le Muy F Serre-Poncon Lake rëjus Champcella Villarembert Annot Vergons St.-Raphaél Auvare

L Briancon I Jausiers G Cannes Grasse U R I A N Bonson

S E

A Villars-sur-Var Sestriere

Nice Y L A T I Bessans Molaretto Pinerolo MONACO Monte-Carlo Bussoleno Cuneo Busca Tende Cavour Rivoli Remo San Triora Provence & the Côte d’Azur

Villarembert Bessans

Valence N91 A43 MolarettoMolaretto Paris AurisAuris FRANCE E70 A32 BussolenoBussoleno Lyon RHONE-ALPES

Thueyts N91 Toulouse Baix Allex SS23 Rivoli N94 SestriereSestriere Aubenas AmbelAmbel BrianconBriancon Condillac Vinezac Montelimar FRANCE N94 Pinerolo N85 ChampcellaChampcella CavourCavour Donzere LayeLaye Charens Alpes de Haute-Provence (see chapter 9) GapGap ITALY Aigueze VitrollesVitrolles Verclause Lake Bollene E712 Serre-Poncon Villedieu A51 Ales LANGUEDOC- E712 BuscaBusca ROUSSILLON N75 D900 SR20 Orange JausiersJausiers E74 Aubignan SS21 Cuneo Sauzet Mont PROVENCE-ALPES Uzes Ventoux CÔTE D’AZUR Grasse & the Arrière-Pays (see chapter 4) Avignon Nimes L' Isle-sur- AiglunAiglun Digne-les-BainsDigne-les-Bains E74 la-Sorgue N85 SS20 Tarascon Apt Cavaillon TendeTende N202 AnnotAnnot AuvareAuvare St.-Gilles Arles Senas Manosque N85 N202 E74 VergonsVergons Villars-sur-VarVillars-sur-Var N204 Triora Castellane Salon-de- St.-Cannat BonsonBonson Provence San G Venelles U L N202 Remo F A80 E10 O F Aix-en- L N85 I O Provence N Vitrolles GrasseGrasse Monte-Carlo S Ollieres Nice Martigues E80 MONACO Cadolive A8 Monaco & the Le MuyMuy N7 Cannes French Riviera Coastline Marseille (see chapter 3) N7 FrëjusFrëjus

Cassis CarnoulesCarnoules St.-RaphaélSt.-Raphaél A S E N Ste.-MaximSte.-Maximee A R I U La Ciotat I G Toulon St.-Tropez L N98 La Seyne-sur-Mer HyeresHyeres

The Western Côte & Inland Var (see chapter 5) 0 20 mi

PorquerollesPorquerolles MEDITERRANEAN SEA 0 30 km 17

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18 2 Planning a Family Trip and France has offices,aka activities. Thetouristboardalso accommodation andsports travel shopwithbookingfor include brochure-orderingand a Ireland. Theironlineservices us.franceguide.com the sameservices. IntheUK including for morethan30countries, clicks throughtoseparatesites The adventofthe INFORMATION VISITOR P website France’s holidays child’splay,oralmost. made researchingandplanning Gard andpartofBouches-du-Rhône. across twochapters,andtheNîmesCamarguechapterincludes loosely basedoneachofthese,althoughtheAlpes-Maritimesisspread du-Rhône, Gard,VarandVaucluse.Thesightseeingchaptersare Maritimes, AlpesdeHaute-Provence(akaHaute-Provence),Bouches- memories. pected eventsandencountersthatleavethemostmagicalholiday you leavesomeunplannedtimeinyourschedule.It’softentheunex- guide, andmaybedrawuparoughtimetable.However,makesure you’d liketoseeanddo,promptedbysomeofthesuggestionsinthis the childreninvolvedinforthcomingadventure.Talkaboutwhat disappointed oroutofpocket.It’safamilytrip,somakesureyouget est flightsaresnappedupearly—organisingonthehoofwillleaveyou The bestandmostreasonablypricedaccommodationthecheap- der, duringpeakseason,forwhichyou’llneedtoplanwellinadvance. anywhere alongtheCôted’Azur,fromSt.-TropeztoItalianbor- information athand.Thisisespeciallytrueifyou’replanningtostay often forcedtomakelast-minutedecisionswithouthavingthefull and youmissoutonsomewonderfulexperiencesbecauseyou’retoo com This guidetakesinsixadministrativedépartements—theAlpes- fortheUK, and yourholidaycanresembleamilitaryexpedition; lanning anyfamilytrip,longorshort,isafineart:over-plan http://ie.franceguide.com , in29countries,offering , official touristboard www.franceguide.com http://uk.franceguide. Maisons de http:// Internet fortheUS has for , tourisme) ofmajortownsand the touristoffices(officesde tales deTourismeorCDTs) and offices (ComitésDépartemen- CRT), departmentaltourist Régionale deTourismeor regional touristboard(Comité including relevantlinksforthe with thefullcontactdetails, d’Azur—which generatesapage Provence andRivieraCôte you’re headingfor—including websites letyoupicktheregion at 825ThirdAvenue,NewYork in theUSyoucancontactthem ( l’Opéra, Paris( in France,at20Avenuede WC1V 7JH( 300 HighHolborn,London there’s oneatLincolnHouse, b

514 2881904 The officialtouristboard b ).

b 09968 244123

01 42967000 under-plan under-plan ); ); 11/1/10 2:05 PM cities. Note that you can’t visit Child-specific Websites Visitor Information CRTs and CDTs in person. A useful resource is www.france The English-language CRT 4families.com, which has lots of website for this region, known as general information about Provence Alpes Côte d’Azur France from a family perspective (PACA), is www.discover-south plus guides to all regions, includ- offrance.com, which covers ing Provence and the Côte everywhere from Arles to Nice. d’Azur. Another good site is CDT websites (including www. www.totstofrance.co.uk, which, gard-tourisme.com for Nîmes, as well as detailing family- Uzès and Aigues Mortes (which friendly properties to rent, pro- aren’t in the PACA region but vides information on travelling are part of Languedoc-Roussil- in France with children, includ- lon) are listed under ‘Visitor ing tips on what to pack. Information’ in the sightseeing More general family-oriented chapters. Most of the CDT websites are www.takethefamily.com sites are translated into English , and have some information on with tips, destination guides family holidays or children’s (including lots on camping in activities. They all list every France) and a discussion board; tourist office, syndicat d’initiative www.babygoes2.com, with gen- (small tourist office) or mairie eral tips and location reports; (town hall) in the department. www.travellingwithchildren.co.uk, It’s useful to print out and take a comprehensive site with lots of with you the list of tourist offices tips; and www.deabirkett.com, a in the department you want to handy family travel forum for visit. exchanging tips and views, run For route planning ahead of a by the former Guardian journal- trip, or just general interest, ist and children’s travel specialist. http://maps.google.com has zoomable maps of just about anywhere, turn-by-turn direc- Entry Requirements & tions to and from places and Customs even detailed satellite images and StreetView—look at Marseille’s Passports & Visas Vieux Port, for instance, or even Citizens of European Union the hotel you’re going to stay in. (EU) countries need an identity If you have the time to be really card to enter France. For the organised in advance, the excel- time being, this means a pass- lent www.viamichelin.com can port for UK nationals. Non-EU also give you detailed directions citizens also need a passport, and (plus maps) from your home a few nationalities, including town to your destination in South Africans, require a visa. France, including the location of However, stays of more than 3 speed cameras. months by non-EU citizens also require a visa. For French 19

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20 2 Planning a Family Trip world see embassies/consulates aroundthe co.uk beer. Travellersfrom 90 litresofwineor110 of 800 cigarettes,10litresofspirits, order purchasesormorethan use exceptnewvehicles,mail- amount ofgoodsforpersonal pany). Forfulldetailssee with anapprovedtransportcom- hours beforebeingcheckedin worm (byanEUvet24to28 pet treatedforticksandtape- to theUK,youneedgetyour days priortotravel.Onre-entry cinated againstrabiesatleast21 fitted withamicrochipandvac- fr/venir/visas/index.html index.htm defra.gov.uk/animalh/quarantine/ more than7,600€ mustdeclare 175€. Allvisitors leavingwith tax onthoseworthmorethan ported goodsandpaydutyor mercial website additional smallfee.Thecom- permit animals,oftenforan some self-cateringproperties Dogs andcatsareissuedwitha without beingquarantined. countries andreturntotheUK cats cantraveltomanyotherEU (PETS), UK-residentdogsand Visitors toFrancefromother Customs passport Under the Taking Pets the EU friendly, self-cateringoptions. countries Most French isagoodsourceofpet- mustdeclarealltrans- . (byavet)afterbeing canbringhomeany www.diplomatie.gouv. Pet TravelScheme www.visitfrance. hotels outside . and www. EU

and boardwalks. Forvisitors Cannes havewheelchairramps mercial beachesinresortssuch as wheelchair users,butsomecom- ously presentachallengefor access topools.Beachesobvi- access throughout,including plexes alsooffergoodwheelchair ‘thalassotherapy’ resortcom- and lifts.Mostlargerspa accessible ground-floorrooms well equippedwithwheelchair- Many newerhotels,however,are and zooentry.BringphotoID. counts smaller museumsandhistoric Older hotels,gîtesandsome Needs For FamilieswithSpecial that over-60sgenerallyget children onoutings,remember section). Ifyoutakeyourgrand- Special Needs’,inthefollowing rooms (see‘ForFamiliesWith ladder-style stairstoloftbed- some gîteshavesteep,loft- narrow stairsandnolift,while many smallerhotelshavesteep, up onaccesstobedrooms— or pensionsmaywanttocheck gîtes (p. 43),smallguesthouses Older peopleplanningtostayin For Grandparents Disabled &Elderly Travelling withthe French Customswebsite, the amounttoCustoms.The existent buildings havelimitedornon- douane.gouv.fr English. on travel tickets, museum ontraveltickets,museum wheelchair access , istranslatedinto www. dis- . 11/1/10 2:05 PM with limited sight or hearing, (American Express and Diner’s Visitor Information many major historic attractions Club are only really accepted in (such as Avignon’s Palais des expensive establishments). There Papes) have multilingual audio- is often a minimum spend of 7€ guides for rent and induction to 15€. loops for hearing aid users. Holi- The only places unlikely to day Care (b 0845 124 9971, www. accept cards today are small holidaycare.org.uk) offers general businesses, B&Bs, small camp- advice for people with disabili- sites and inexpensive rural inns. ties travelling abroad and links However, it’s always wise to to other organisers, including check in advance as there are specialist tour company Canbe- exceptions to the rule. As always, done (b 020 8907 2400, www. watch out for charges when canbedone.co.uk) which offers you use your credit or debit card package holidays in several acces- abroad. At the time of writing, sible hotels in Nice. Nationwide and the Post Office Drivers who have the new offer credit cards that don’t blue disabled driver card are charge for each transaction made entitled to the same parking outside the UK (only charging concessions as French residents. for withdrawing money from an Eurotunnel has better wheel- ATM), reducing your holiday chair access than most ferries, and bill considerably. This is a safer Eurostar (p. 32) offers first-class option than carrying around travel for second-class fares for wads of cash. For further infor- people with disabilities. mation about the best credit cards to use abroad, see www. moneysupermarket.com. Money You now use your PIN when Currency making a purchase with your card as well as using it at an France, in common with 15 ATM, except at some automated other countries at the time of pumps at petrol stations out of writing, has the euro (€) as its hours (most petrol stations now currency. There are 100 cents have payment machines that do in a euro, with notes for 5€ to accept foreign cards). 500€ and coins for 1 [ce] to 2€. The prepaid debit card is For current rates and a currency another excellent option for fami- converter, see www.xe.com. Note lies. This is a ‘virtual wallet’ that that in practice 500€ notes are you load with as much cash as you not commonly accepted. like before leaving home. You can then use it to withdraw cash from Credit & Debit Cards any ATM using a PIN. Older children can each be given their Most French shops, restaurants and own, loaded with their spending hotels take credit or debit cards, money—a useful way of putting at least Visa and MasterCard a cap on holiday budgets. 21

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22 2 Planning a Family Trip up, andtohavetwoormore some cashintoFranceasaback- small sumseveryday. foreign ATM,soavoiddrawing probably chargeafeeforusing sion). However,yourbankwill (which mayalsotakeacommis- point thananexchangebooth ally getabetterrateatcash- gone overyourlimit.Youusu- rarely aproblemunlessyou’ve way towns;withdrawingcashis tively smallonesinout-of-the- supermarket lobbies—evenrela- French banksandinmany machines (orATMs)outsideall There are24-hourcashpoint Cash &Travellers’Cheques p. 52. night inahotel)atalltimes. (enough foratankoffueland a stashofemergencycash safe side,it’sagoodideatokeep you willbegoing.Toonthe abroad, andwherewhen that youwillbetravelling provider (preferablyinwriting) a hotelbill.Tellyourcreditcard to payforatankoffuelorsettle be embarrassingifyou’retrying lent useofyourcard,butitcan card company)againstfraudu- is meanttoprotectyou(andthe everyday spendingprofile.This transaction thatdoesn’tfityour dures toblockany‘unusual’ may usecomputerisedproce- purchases awayfromhome,and approving cashwithdrawalsor become super-vigilantabout Credit card It’s alsoagoodideatobring For lost orstolencards companieshave see you’re visitingtheregion best to March andMay. wind oftenblowsbetween lovers when youcashone. cards. You’llneedtoshowID them separatelyfrommoneyand case oflossortheftandcarry record oftheirserialnumbersin and thePostOffice.Keepa building societies,travelagents you cangetthematbanks, choose totakesomeasback-up, ATMs. However,ifyoudo now citiesandmosttownshave becoming athingofthepast, is, atypical ters andhot,drysummers:that this region,withtemperatewin- The weatherisgenerallymildin Pack When toGo&What interest payments). likely tocostyouevenmorein your debitcard(thoughit’s using acreditcardaswell cash withdrawalsfromATMs Remember, youcanalsomake cards incaseofahiccup. mate sunshine peryearandrarelysee Côte d’Azurboast300daysof ber, andtheirritating rainfall, particularlyinNovem- can seeshortbutheavyburstsof October. Springandautumn sunny weatherbetweenJuneand low as-10°Cinwinter. can experiencetemperaturesas any frost,whereasinlandregions To beonthesafeside,it’s Travellers’ cheques . Coastaltownsalongthe areallbutguaranteed pack Mediterranean cli- winterclothesif mistral are Beach-

11/1/10 2:05 PM between November and April. at this time, so it’s often best to Visitor Information However, it’s useful to also take arrive first thing in the morning some T-shirts just in case. What- to avoid the crowds and find ever the time of year, you’ll need parking spaces. On the other comfortable walking shoes for hand, this is when most festivals, all your sightseeing expeditions, events and activities, including and also sunglasses. And if you children’s beach clubs, take plan to eat in fancier restaurants place. You’ll find details of these during your stay, pack some on tourist office websites. smart clothes, including shirts and trousers for the boys. Public & School Holidays A helpful tool for planning what to take and what to do is French national holidays are www.meteofrance.com; even with called jours fériés. Banks and only basic French (you need to small shops close. However, know the days of the week) you larger supermarkets and depart- get a general idea of what to ment stores increasingly open in expect in your area from the the morning. Most museums clickable maps. Or call b 08 92 close but many other visitor sites 68 02 XX (XX is the number of stay open, as do the majority of the département: 04 for Alpes de restaurants. If there’s a public Haute-Provence, 06 for Alpes- holiday on a Thursday or Tues- Maritimes, 13 for Bouches-du- day, many people take the Fri- Rhône, 30 for Gard, 83 for Var day or Monday off as well—this and 84 for Vaucluse). A good is called faire le pont (to make a English-language site is http:// bridge). weather.msn.com. The main public holidays are Since the region is most pop- New Year’s Day (1st January), ular among visitors—at least Easter Monday (March or French ones—for its beaches April), Labour Day (Fête du Tra- and coastal resorts, it’s at its bus- vail; 1st May), VE Day (8th iest and most expensive at Eas- May), Whit Monday (late May), ter, during the French May Ascension Thursday (late May, Bank Holiday (1st to 8th), and 40 days after Easter), Bastille in July and August. The French Day (14th July), Assumption of holiday en masse in August, the Blessed Virgin (15th which means congested roads August), All Saints’ Day (1st and resorts—particularly in the November), Armistice Day Alpes-Maritimes and Var, from (11th November) and Christ- Menton to Hyères. Family mas Day (25th December). attractions also get very crowded

Average Daily Temperatures Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp. (°C) 12.2 11.9 14.2 18.5 20.8 26.6 28.1 28.4 25.2 22.1 16.8 14.1 23

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24 2 Planning a Family Trip tree.com ther detailssee and Parisianholidays.Forfur- holiday periodintheirownarea sites takeintoaccountboththe Zone CisParis.Mosttourist ers therestofregion,and and AiguesMortes,ZoneBcov- Zone AincludesNîmes,Uzès staggered aroundthecountry: weeks atChristmas.Holidaysare at theendofOctoberandtwo all ofJulyandAugust,oneweek in February,twoweeksatEaster, days However, remember thatmany hotels areoftenmoreexpensive. busier duringtheseperiodsand then ‘SchoolCalendar’. France’ followedby‘Education’ There arefive Tourist sitesandroadsare at somenewsagentsintowns. head fortheTGVstationorairport,althoughyou’llfindalimitedchoice lish-language books,magazinesandnewspapers,it’softenbestto selling foodanddrink,clothes,accessoriesbabyitems.ForEng- on amainshoppingstreet,whichcancatertoallyoureverydayneeds, Inlargertowns,you’llfindalsosmallerMonoprix supermarkets in-store pharmacyaswellothersatelliteshops. and Intermarchéchainsareourfavourites;alllargerbrancheshavean sauces andspicesfromIndia,ChinaMexico.TheGéant,Leclerc beans andHPSauce—usuallyrackedinthe‘exotic’sectionalongwith few shelvesdevotedto‘foreign’foodstuffssuchasMarmite,baked parking, air-conditioningandauser-friendlylayout.Manyevenhave campsite outoftown,thesecanbeagodsend,witheasyoff-street ring-roads oflargertowns.Ifyou’reself-cateringorstayingina quickest andeasiesttoheadforasupermarket,usuallylocatedonthe barbecue kit,tentsandcampingaccessories,medicines)it’soften (from foodanddrinktosocks,nappies,babyfoods,underwear,toys, in theregionalchapters.Forone-stopshoppingforfamilyessentials We’ve listedourpickoftheregion’sbestsmallshopsandmarkets ayearinFrance:twoweeks , thenclickon‘Livingin www.frenchen school holi- Shopping inProvence dren’s activities other venueshost of themuseums,galleriesand sightseeing chapter. Entertainment’ sectionsofeach see the‘Child-friendlyEvents & eating festivalsaroundMarseille, ebrations inTarascontosardine- the year,fromscarymonster cel- friendly happeningsthroughout For ourpickofthebestfamily- Special Events during busyperiods,bearin entertainment. Ifyoudovisit clubs plusspecialeventsand and resortshavechildren’sbeach attractions. good timetovisitpopular out afterlunchsomorningsarea mind thattheFrenchtendtogo intheholidays extra chil- gîte or

11/1/10 2:05 PM Visitor Information Children’s Kit

The following items can make travelling with babies or young children easier or more relaxing: Bébétel Baby Monitor: Unlike battery-powered listening devices, this is not limited by range and suffers no interference, so you can use it in all hotel restaurants. You plug it into a standard phone line (there are foreign adapter sets) and programme in your mobile number (you may have to add the international code). If your child gets up or cries, the monitor calls you. It costs a hefty £150 or so from www.bebetel.co.uk, so check that your hotel doesn’t already have one. Littlelife Baby Carriers: These ‘backpacks-with-children-in’ are a great idea if you’re doing a lot of walking or hiking and don’t want to be encumbered with a buggy. ‘Voyager’ has a zip-off bag for drinks, snacks and wipes, for about £170; lighter models start at half that. You can get hold of them at www.littletrekkers.co.uk and outdoor pursuits shops. The same firm’s compact, super-absorbent travel towels are also handy for travelling. Portable Highchairs: Many French restaurants provide at least one highchair. However, if they don’t, or it’s taken, or it’s a weird old-style one without a front bar, you may be left trying to eat with one hand and hold a squirming baby or toddler with the other. Lightweight options you can carry around include the supremely compact ‘Handbag Highchair’ (a loop of fabric that secures your baby to the chair), the foldable Handy- sitt toddler seat and the Early Years inflatable booster seat. All are sold at www.bloomingmarvellous.co.uk, with prices from £15 to £75. Boardbug Baby & Toddler Monitor: Great for the beach or for shopping, this award-winning wristwatch-style monitor alerts you to whenever your little one (or ones—the parent one can be paired with up to three child units) strays from you, with adjustable distances from 2m to 150m. It costs about £55 from www.safetots.co.uk. Baby Equipment Rental: Try Les Petits Nomades (b 08 20 82 13 37/04 91 37 66 91, www.petitsnomades.fr).

Health, Insurance & medical treatment abroad. The Safety quickest way to apply for one is online (www.ehic.org.uk), or call Medical b 0845 606 2030 or get a form Travellers to France from other from the Post Office. You still EU countries now need to carry pay upfront for treatment and their European Health Insur- related expenses; the doctor will ance Card (EHIC) as proof of give you a form to reclaim most entitlement to free/reduced-cost of the money (about 70% of 25

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26 2 Planning a Family Trip ance replacement for cancellation, soitisnota costs, lostmoney,baggageor and doesn’tcoverrepatriation ers ‘necessarymedicaltreatment’ ance &Safety’,p. 25)onlycov- The EHIC(see‘Health,Insur- Travel Insurance zens tomedical treatmentin have thesamerightsasEUciti- exception ofCanadians,who com travel. tion beingdeclaredunsafefor to natural disastersoradestina- lation canrangefromsickness bust. Allowedreasonsforcancel- or ifyourtravelsuppliergoes you’re travelling withchildren), home early(morelikelyif if you havetobackoutorgo help you getyourmoneyback such as with areputableonlineinsurer without anyadventuresports, travelling toFrancefor2weeks, ple ofcoverforafamilyfour expenses. Iftheydon’t,anexam- cancelled ticketsormedical cards coveryouforlostluggage, insurance policiesandcredit check whetheryourexisting cancellation insurance sure your packageincludes than two tripsayear.Make worth itifyoumakemore trip policycosts£41.49,well website fordetails). still inFrance(seetheEHIC which youshouldsendoffwhile medicines/prescription charges), doctor’s feesand35%to65%of Non-EU nationals , is£20.49;anannualmulti- . Beforeyoubuythelatter, www.travelinsuranceweb. travel insur- —with the to trip- tact lensesorprescriptionglasses. bring alonganextrapairofcon- brand name.Youshouldalso macist isunfamiliarwiththe medicines incasealocalphar- generic nameofprescription cation orrunsout.Carrythe in yourfamilylosestheirmedi- scription medicines ers, withchemist’slabels.All luggage intheiroriginalcontain- while intheairyourhand food allergy,thecharity epilepsy, diabetes,asthmaor a and accuratetreatment,such as to you/them,andthatneedsswift ble toexplainwhat’shappening illness thatmaymakeitimpossi- airport and/orairlinewebsite. For details,seeyourdeparture ties mustgoascheckedluggage. before boarding.Largerquanti- and presentedforinspection containers nobiggerthan100ml ointments mustbecarriedin gels, lotions,liquids,creamsand Alert and emergency treatment children, consultyourGP.For general adviceontravellingwith you don’tneedvaccinations.For when travellinginFranceand There arenorealhealthrisks Staying Healthy apply forarefund. then, youpaybillsupfrontand ical treatmentoverseas.Even travel insurancethatcoversmed- France—need comprehensive scriptions Bring alongcopiesof When flying,packany If youoryourchildhavean chemists ( www.medicalert.org.uk incaseyouoranyone , seep. 52. you’llneed , doctors Medic pre- pre- ) 11/1/10 2:05 PM provides body-worn bracelets or to find you. Their name should Visitor Information necklets engraved with the wear- never be visible on their bag/ er’s medical condition(s)/vital clothing and tell them the details, ID number and 24-hour importance of never divulging emergency telephone number their name to a stranger. that accepts reverse charge calls, Beaches can be lethal: you so their details can be accessed lay back and close your eyes for from anywhere in more than what seems like a second, and 100 languages. when you open them, your child is nowhere to be seen. With the sea close by, the potential for Safety disaster is clear. The rule is to France—especially outside Paris take it in turns to flake out while and other major cities—is gener- one parent keeps watch. If ally a very safe country. A travel- you’re alone, you have no option ler’s main worry is being but to stay hyper-alert. Alterna- targeted by pickpockets or tively, you could book them into petty thieves—travel with your a supervised children’s beach car doors locked as a precaution. club (ask at the local tourist It’s obvious, but don’t leave office for details). valuables in a car. As a parent, For peace of mind, especially be especially wary of French if you have more than one child drivers; many pay no heed to the to keep an eye on, invest in speed limit, exceed the alcohol Boardbug wrist-worn monitors limit and drive aggressively. Vir- (p. 25) with adjustable distance tually no-one here stops at alarms for children of varying pedestrian crossings, so tell ages. You could also try a set of your child to wait until vehicles reins if you have a toddler who have stopped before proceeding. likes to go walkabout. As everywhere, hold hands with young children and don’t Responsible Tourism let them out of your sight unless they are being supervised by No holiday abroad can be truly someone you trust. Avoid situa- ‘green’. But in practical terms, tions where young children there’s plenty that you can do to could get swept away in a crowd limit the impact of your holiday and, with older children, agree on the local and global environment. After arriving, don’t use on a place to meet should you get parted, such as the informa- your car more than you must. tion desk at a museum. Make Anyway, it’s more fun to walk sure they have your mobile or cycle. Bikes can be hired in number and accommodation many places in France, or you address on them, with instruc- might want to look into taking tions to ask for a member of the folding bicycles—you’ll find a police (agent de police or gen- selection to buy at www.folding bikes.co.uk or www.onyourbike. darme) should they not be able 27

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28 2 Planning a Family Trip leave leaving itonstandbyanddon’t total. contribute onlyafractionofthat and short-haulholidayflights for only2%ofglobalemissions, aviation globallyisresponsible counts withtouroperator ity offeringinformationandadvice forloneparents.Membersofbothgetdis- Switch the when you’renotintheroom. you canavoidit,andturnitoff Gingerbread and operators,see For agoodholidaypagewithcontactdetailsofusefulUK associations or com Buying (such assolarwaterheating). stay thatuserenewableenergy not baths)andlookforplacesto Don’t wastewater(takeshowers equipment isfullyrecharged). on drawingpowerevenafterthe than necessary(thechargergoes check out offer discounts,asdomost service tohelploneparentsunpack andsettlein.Othercampingoperators ent Travel producers andcutsdownon supermarket foodsupportslocal markets insteadofprocessed for kids.It’seveneducational. ping inProvenceiseasyandfun ‘food miles’—andmarketshop- £35 perweek. France fromtheUK. way ofgettingtotheSouth least environmentallyfriendly TIP laptops Air travel Don’t use , whichalsorentsbikesfrom mobile phones Driving locally sourcedfood ResourcesforSingleParents www.onlydads.org onchargelonger ( TV www.singleparenttravel.net) emitsCO2,but ( isprobablythe air-conditioning offratherthan b

0808 8020925; www.singleparents.org.uk , Coach cameras Eurocamp youth hostels . in

if www.gingerbread.org.uk)

(p. 34), whichhasan‘ArrivalSurvival’ (p. 34), ing sustainableenergyprojects. number ofways,includingfund- claims tooffsetyourCO2ina through the service togreenerholidays companies whichatleastpaylip find anumberofothertravel and cyclingholidays),you’ll and hotels,aswellwalking gîtes andcottagestoapartments Provence (rangingfromvillas, handful ofplacestostayin sustainable travelideasandhasa to). depends whichexpertsyoulisten ‘greener’ thanrailtravel(it travel Independent TourOperators charities suchas conscience bycontributingto power stations. electricity isgeneratedbynuclear as morethan80%ofFrance’s are, ineffect,nuclear-powered, should reflectthatFrenchtrains qualms aboutnuclearenergy greenest ofall,butthosewith responsibletravel.com ( ( www.climatecare.org.uk www.aito.co.uk isalsogoodfortraveladvice. Responsible Travel You cansalveyourcarbon Rail (p. 45). (p. 45). . TheUS-based , surprisingly,maywellbe isusuallyclaimedtobe Lone fathers Association of ). Climate Care ) isaBritishchar- ) espouses Single Par- ( ), which www. should

11/1/10 2:05 PM

Essentials ESSENTIALS (Gard) and Toulon-Hyères (Var). Getting There Ryanair (UK b 0871 246 0000/ France b 08 92 23 23 75, www. By Air As a general rule, under- ryanair.com) flies from UK air- 2s fly free if they sit on your ports to Marseille, Nîmes and knee. Some airlines occasionally Toulon. offer reduced fares for children Flybe (UK b 0871 700 2000/ between 2 and 12 years old, so it outside UK b 00 44 13 92 26 85 may be worth shopping around. 13, www.flybe.com) flies to Avi- However, these fares are usually gnon from Southampton, Bir- only available on long-haul mingham, Manchester and flights; on routes from the UK Exeter, and to Nice from and Ireland to France, children Southampton. usually pay the full fare. Many Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) airlines, including Ryanair, flies to Marseille from Bristol charge for checked-in baggage, and London Gatwick, and to so verify exactly what you are Nice from several UK airports. paying for before you book. Jet2 (www.jet2.com) flies Many airlines also require that from Leeds Bradford to Nice you opt out of booking extras and Avignon (summer only), that you may not need—such as and from Manchester to Nice. travel insurance—by un-check- Bmibaby (UK b 0905 828 28 ing the tick-box on the screen 28/France b 00 44 845 81 11 00, when booking online. If you www.bmibaby.com) flies to Nice don’t do this, you will be auto- from Birmingham and East matically charged for various Midlands. things that you don’t want. You You can also fly to Marseille may also pay a hefty charge at or Nice from the UK and Ire- the airport if you do not check land with British Airways (UK in online, so if this is a condition b 0844 493 0787/France b 08 25 make sure that you comply and 82 54 00, www.ba.com), Air carry a hard-copy confirmation. France (UK b 0870 142 4343/ To compare cheap flights France b 08 20 82 08 20, www.air try www.skyscanner.net—and france.com) and Aer Lingus (UK always watch out for special b 0871 718 5000/Ireland b 08 18 offers. 36 50 00, www.aerlingus.com). From the UK & Ireland The From the US & Canada Delta advent of low-cost airlines has Airlines (US b 1 800 241 4141, made the region more accessible www.delta.com) is, at time of to holidaymakers. The situation writing, the only airline flying fluctuates, but at the time of direct to the South of France writing you can fly from the UK from the US, with flights to Avignon (Vaucluse), Mar- between New York JFK and seille (Bouches-du-Rhône), Nice. Alternatively, fly to Paris Nice (Alpes-Maritimes), Nîmes and take a connecting flight or 29

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30 2 Planning a Family Trip hour. Allvesselshavechildren’s Dover toCalaisinjustoveran star/TGV viaLondon. is aconnectingflightorEuro- www.continental.com nental Airlines Flight SafetyVest ada logne, CalaisandDunkerque. ings arefromDovertoBou- cheapest andmostpopularcross- from Johannesburgand rently nodirectflightsfrom From ElsewhereTherearecur- Toronto andMontreal. US andCanada, and Parisare that flyregularlybetweentheUS train (p. 58)toNice.Airlines your airlinedoesn’talreadyhavebabyholderstolendyou. www.poferries.com P&O Ferries By Ferry&Car www.flysaa.com African Airways Australia toParis France British Airways Whentravellingwithababy,youmightwanttoinvestin during take-offandlanding. before ascentanddescent,oradministeraspraydecongestant sinuses. Ifthat’snotanoption,givethemoralchild’sdecongestanthour can beespeciallypainful—andevendangerous—whentheyhavecongested If possible,keepchildrenwithcoldsgrounded,asascentanddescent from yourarms.Itcostsabout£27 ones duringturbulence,andallowsyoutosleepknowingyourbabycan’tfall Town. canada.com WAYS, ( 645 b TIP

1 8004337300, /France ( b

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, www.babybair.com are overnightcrossings,with Cherbourg andSt-Malo.These from PortsmouthtoCaen, from PooletoCherbourgand from southwestEngland. worth consideringforfamilies entertainment, andarecertainly as onboardchildren’sareasand four-bed cabinsavailableaswell 907 6103 just northofCalais. sails fromDovertoDunkerque, www.brittany-ferries.com Brittany Ferries www.norfolkline.co.uk www.seafrance.com 2546 SeaFrance including filmsandvideogames. play areasandentertainment, Le Havre. night crossingfromRosslare to ilies fromIreland,withanover- offers aseaborneoptionforfam- (about 6hours).LDFerriesalso from PortsmouthtoLeHavre to Dieppe(about4hours)and Dover toBoulogne,Newhaven 451 folkline onboard facilities,asdoes LD Ferries , /France www.ldline.co.uk (UK /France (UK b b (UK

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11/1/10 2:05 PM , Essentials TIP What You Can Take on Your Flight You can usually take just one bag on board with you. Generally, maximum dimensions are 55cm x 40cm x 20cm. Maximum permitted weight varies between 10kg and 15kg, so check with your airline. Note that all carry- on items—including handbags, laptop computers and cameras—must go in one single bag. You can take your mobile phone on board, but it must be switched off before boarding. Liquids, gels, ointments, lotions and aerosols such as shaving foam and deodorant may be taken on board only in containers with a maximum capacity of 100ml, packed in one transparent, resealable plastic bag (use zip-up freezer bags). You can, however, get around this partly by buying liquid items like sun lotion, shampoo or conditioner in the departure lounge pharmacy after passing through security. If you need to carry liquid medicines in quantities greater than 100ml and don’t want to put them in your checked luggage, you can usually arrange in advance to collect your prescription from departure-lounge branches of Boots at most UK airports. Baby milk and some essential liquid medications may usually be taken on board in quantities larger than 100ml, but you must present them for inspec- tion at security and must have a prescription and ideally a doctor’s confirmation that medicines are essential during your journey. It’s a good idea to wear slip-on shoes when flying, as airport security sometimes demands that footwear should be removed from screening. Tying and untying several sets of laces just adds to the hassle of boarding. Savvy parents can also stretch the limits of their checked luggage allow- ance by wearing garments with lots of pockets into which heavy items such as books and cameras can be stuffed, leaving more space in your bag. Multi- pocketed, sleeveless photographers’ jerkins are good for this, and easy to take off at security. You can even get a small laptop into the largest pockets. You can also cheat the system by strapping a bum-bag round your middle instead of carrying a handbag, or by carrying bulky cameras on a belt pouch. Remind small boys that even toy guns are seriously frowned upon—you’d be surprised how many people get a ticking-off over these!

For those travelling from just outside Edinburgh, to Zee- Scotland or northern England, brugge on an overnight 18-hour ferry options include P&O Fer- crossing. Four-berth cabins are ries, sailing overnight between available on all these routes, and Hull to Zeebrugge in about 12 all vessels have children’s facili- hours; DFDS (UK b 0871 522 ties such as playrooms and films; 9955 www.dfdsseaways.co.uk), DFDS also has its ‘Jack the sailing from Newcastle to Pirate’ club with supervised IJmuiden (near Amsterdam) in activities such as face-painting the Netherlands overnight (in and treasure hunts for under- about 16 hours); and Nor- 12s. Check with your ferry com- folkline, sailing from Rosyth, pany on what is and isn’t 31

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32 2 Planning a Family Trip long hoursinthecaris who needtoletoffsteamafter place that’sgreatforchildren journey partoftheholiday.One stop onthewayandmake much formostfamilies;plana least 12hours,whichistoo doing itinonegowilltakeat disembarkation. Inpractice, need toallowupanhourfor fuel andtoiletstops.Youalso that assumespausingonlyfor notionally around9hours,but the FrenchportstoAvignonis Drivingtimefrommost of Zeebrugge withNorfolkline. a returnfarefromRosythto return, lessthanhalfthecostof option costsaslittle£200 including fuelandferry,this take around9hourseachway; Edinburgh, forexample,should crossing. DrivingtoDoverfrom Dover andtakingashortsea than simplydrivingsouthto expensive andtime-consuming options canbeverymuchmore Bearinmindthatthese modate travelcots,forinstance). permitted (somedon’taccom- By Train get toProvence inhighseason. is beyondadoubtthebestway to east England,goingbyEurostar their tripfromLondonorsouth- ibi Rhône-Alpes guesthouses. hotels, campsites,gîtesand of accommodationpackagesin friendly restaurantsandachoice rides andotheractivities,family- motorway), Walibihaswater east ofLyonandjustoffthe nel portsandProvence(48km over midwaybetweentheChan- ( www.walibi-rhone-alpes.fr Forfamiliesstarting themepark ). Abit Wal- 064 but alsocheckout most convenientplacetobook, week. However, withjourney twice aweek,andtoNiceonce a London VictoriatoAvignon runs overnightservicesfrom in theEurolinesbusconsortium, Rail Europe b in justover6hourswith (Ashford/Ebbsfleet) toAvignon don St.PancrasorKent tember youcantravelfromLon- Frommid-Julytomid-Sep- By Bus com ( com express.co.uk star lies withyoungchildren. so isnotrecommendedforfami- Gare duNordtodeLyon transport acrossthecityfrom time-consuming slogbypublic Paris, butthisinvolvesalong, trains totheSouthofFranceat you canalsoconnectwithTGV involves achangeofplatform; (TGV) toAvignon.Thisonly with Frenchhigh-speedtrains star toLilleEuropeconnect the year,youcantakeEuro- start ataround£800.Therestof and two(fare-paying)children fares forafamilyoftwoadults on yourlapalltheway;return under 4gofreeifyousitthem arriving at14:13.Children kilometres fromthecentre. gnon’s TGVstationisseveral and TGVtrains.NotethatAvi- facilities onallEurostartrains Therearebaby-changing useful tips. b

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11/1/10 2:05 PM times of 19 hours and 22 hours, insurance (p. 26) covers you Essentials respectively, and fares that aren’t should your operator go bust. that much lower than train fares, Brittany Ferries ★★★ this isn’t an attractive option for b families; return prices for a fam- 0870 556 1600, www.brittany ferries.com. ily of two adults and two children in August are around £750. This ferry company is also an award-winning tour operator, and can make parents’ lives eas- Packages, Deals & Activity Holidays ier by booking hotels, apartments, gîtes, camping chalets, Package deals let you buy your theme parks, cycling and boating aeroplane, ferry or train ticket, holidays in conjunction with accommodation and other ele- travel on its ferries. All proper- ments of your trip (e.g. car hire ties are inspected and, handily or airport transfers) at the same for those anxious about the lan- time, often at a discount. How- guage, there’s a 24-hour hotline ever, they may include hidden with English-speaking staff to charges that you would avoid by deal with plumbing problems or booking direct with a hotel or the like. The excellent online carrier. The obvious appeal for search facility lets you refine parents is that package deals save your gîte search by distance from you time researching and a beach, availability of baby booking. equipment and so on, and Activity holidays are roughly there’s plenty of information the same, with the addition of provided on each property. You some kind of sporting, creative can also book mix-and-match or cultural activity, although holidays that allow you, for sometimes you make your own instance, to treat yourselves to a travel arrangements. night or two in a posh hotel after Escorted tours, where you spending a week in a chalet. are taken around the various Keycamp sites, can be anathema to family holidays, where you need to b 0844 406 0200, www.keycamp. remain flexible in case the chil- co.uk. dren get bored/tired/ill. Such This company offers tents, holidays also take away the mobile homes and chalets at exhilaration of getting out there campsites across Europe, includ- and discovering the destination ing seven in the Var between for yourselves—one of the best Toulon and St.-Raphaël. All lessons you can give children. sites have children’s clubs, a The following are a few of the swimming pool or pools and a best package holiday companies. variety of play, sporting and You will find many more on the practical amenities. You can see Internet and advertised in Sunday the attraction of this kind of hol- papers. Check that your travel iday for those with young 33

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34 2 Planning a Family Trip some ofthesamecampsites. sites intheVar.Companiesuse Similarfirmsinclude your travelandcarhire. online andtheycanalsoarrange get adiscountforbooking cantly outofhighseason.You August. Thepricedropssignifi- £1,000 (1,480€)inJulyand without linentocostabout two-bedroom mobilehome ties. Expecta7-nightstayin playmates andarangeofactivi- children—lots ofready-made one inPortCamargue; offering sixsitesintheVarand co.uk co.uk. at threesitesnear Fréjusand tents, mobilehomesandchalets Europe, thiscompanyoffers Formerly knownasHaven b Siblu on airportparkingandhotelstoo. is £1,000.Youcangetdiscounts Lubéron hillsforaweekinJune sleeping fourplusababyinthe dation. Asamplepriceforavilla selection criteriaforaccommo- ‘family friendly’asoneofthe facility invitesyoutoclickon and elsewhere;theonlinesearch tages, gîtesandvillasinProvence firm isagoodoptionforcot- This award-winning,reputable b VFB Holidays camp canvasholidays.com Al Fresco and Colombier inFréjus(p. 121); including theRésidencedu 0871 9110022,www.siblu.com . 01242 240340,www.vfbholidays. Canvas Holidays ), withfoursitesintheVar, ( ★★ www.eurocamp.co.uk ( www.thomsonalfresco. ★ ), witheight ( Thomson Thomson www. Euro- ), cate). Thesearenolonger (international insurancecertifi- ing licence your insurerfora France butit’sadvisabletoask minimum legalcoverrequired in ish insurancewillgiveyouthe sation fromtheowner.YourBrit- in yourname,aletterofauthori- and, ifthevehicleisn’tregistered a current By Car Getting Around can bearranged). travel discounts(ferrycrossings online bookingandindependent a £100single-saverdiscountplus two children;thepriceincludes £723 inJulyforoneadultand Baume nearSt.-Raphaëlstartsat the discount:a7-nightstayinLa dren. Singleparentstakenoteof and activitypacksforolderchil- baths andmore,aswellbeach buggies, highchairsandbaby rent ‘babypacks’,whichinclude housekeeping amenities.Youcan play areasandsporting pools, atoddler’spoolandslides, parks withindoorandoutdoor supervised children’sclubs,water St.-Raphaël. Allsiteshavefree vehicle registrationdocument Vaucluse andinlandpartsofthe Camargue, Haute-Provence,the especially ruralareassuchasthe exploring theSouthofFrance, flexibility whenitcomesto wheels allowsyouthenecessary given fuelprices),havingasetof ronmentally friendly(orcheap, car, you’llneedtohaveyour Ifyou’rebringingyourown Alpes-Maritimes andtheVar. Although farfromenvi- insurance certificate , the original of the , theoriginalof green card driv-

11/1/10 2:05 PM , compulsory but provide evidence single-lane, that sometimes takes Essentials of minimum insurance cover. you through scenic towns. Get yourself some extra peace of Motorways have parking/rest mind by arranging 24-hour areas every 10 to 20km and breakdown assistance too 24-hour petrol stations with (p. 36). Note that, if you break basic car maintenance services down on a motorway, you can every 40km or so. Visa and only call the official breakdown MasterCard are accepted at tolls service operating in that area; there and petrol stations (except some are orange emergency telephones automated out-of-hours pumps). every 2km. They charge a fixed fee The website www.autoroutes.fr of 68.60€ for repairing or tow- (with an English version) will give ing a vehicle, or 85.75€ at night you information about routes, toll (6pm to 8am), but make sure you charges, service stations, rest get a receipt. You can call your areas, restaurants, petrol stations own breakdown service after and hotels along the way. It even being towed off the motorway. works out how much petrol you Those coming into France will use to get from one place to must display an international another. If you understand sign plate or sticker (e.g. GB) French, Autoroute FM (107.7 as near as possible to their rear FM) broadcasts live traffic infor- registration plate. Carrying a red mation on motorways. warning triangle is strongly Don’t drink and drive at all. advised, even if your car has haz- Apart from the safety of yourself ard-warning lights, because and your children, there are fre- breakdown may affect your elec- quent random breath tests and trics (they’re compulsory for cars the alcohol limit is just 0.05%. towing a caravan or trailer). You The speed limits are 130 km/h should also buy a complete (80 mph) on toll motorways, spare-bulb kit before you go, 110 km/h (68 mph) on dual car- because it’s illegal to drive with riageways and motorways with- faulty lights. You need to adjust out tolls, and 90 km/h (56 mph) your beams for right-hand drive, on other roads except in towns, which means buying special where it’s 50 km/h (31 mph). stickers to affix on your head- On wet roads the limits are, lights. All of this gear is available respectively, 110 km/h (68 from shops at the Channel ports. mph), 100 km/h (62 mph) and The French road system is 80 km/h (50 mph); in fog with generally excellent. Motorways visibility of less than 50m it’s 50 are uncrowded compared with km/h (31 mph) even on toll British ones, though on most you motorways. For cars towing a have to pay a toll—Calais to Nice caravan, if the weight of the costs about 90€. If you’re not in trailer exceeds that of the car, the a hurry, it’s often preferable to limit is 65 km/h (40 mph) if the take a route nationale (RN or excess is less than 30%, or 45 N)—a main road, usually km/h (28 mph) if the excess is 35

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36 2 Planning a Family Trip print-out youneeda car, aswellyourreservation you arrive.Whencollectingyour tional licence seats Note thatyoumustbeatleast18,not17,todriveinFrance.For proof ofyourbooking the a carinFranceisadvancevia Car RentalThebestwaytohire eign drivers. cash fineoftensufficesforfor- and acourtappearance,but always supposedtoresultinfines more than30%.Speedingis (‘continuation ofrestriction’).TheofficialtexttheFrench déformée (‘unevenroad/temporarysurface’),deviation(‘diversion’)andrappel that arealreadyontheroundabout.Commonsignsyouwillsee droite). Thisrulenolongerappliesatroundabouts,whereyougivewaytocars to anybodycomingoutofasideturningontheright(theinfamousprioritéà when youexitapetrolstationorjunction.Inbuilt-upareas,mustgiveway difference isthatinFranceyoudriveontheright.Don’tforgetthisforamoment Traffic rulesinFranceresemblethoseforceBritain—thekey available inEnglishat permis-enligne.com expensive themodelis,andyou 25 butitcandependonhow ers; it’sgenerallybetween21and ferent loweragelimitsfordriv- Different rentalfirmshavedif- two cardsforexpensivemodels). main driver’sname(sometimes resident andacreditcardinthe passport ifyouareanon-EU identity cardorpassport),your section, p. 37. see the‘PainlessTravelbyCar’ surcharge. Forchild-seathire, may havetopayayoungdriver’s much lessexpensive inthepast TIP Car hire Internet , seep. 37.Childrenunder10maynotsitinthefront. photo ID foreachdriver,addi- DrivingRules&Advice inFrancehasgot sothatyouhave (yournational , oryourroadatlaswillprobablypicturemanyofthem. www.legifrance.gouv.fr driving when or damagetothecar.Thisstarts considerable initialchunkofloss prices at different firms(youcancompare you getafewquotationsfrom cars ofsimilarsize.Make to varyenormously,evenbetween few years.However,pricesseem National/Citer Hertz Europcar Easycar Avis you whichoperatewhere: the followingwebsiteswilltell companies operateacrossFrance; flight ticket.Allofthemajorcar the sametimeasbuyingyour via low-costairlinewebsitesat are oftenavailableifyoubook at about15€aday.Gooddeals buy a cheaper deals,youmayneedto down assistance.Withsome ance, taxand24-hourbreak- unlimited mileage,fullinsur- and checkthattheyinclude waiver

www.avis.co.uk

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www.carrentals.co.uk www.easycar.com

www.europcar.com road signs

www.citer.com highway code , see child car chaussée sure www. ), 11/1/10 2:05 PM is

Essentials TIP Painless Travel by Car When travelling long distances by car, it may be worth timing your trip to coincide with a child’s nap time, or even leaving after dinner and unloading them into bed at your pre-booked accommodation. Think about investing in an in-car satellite navigation system (SatNav). They are now relatively affordable, and many couples cite them as marriage-savers! They’re particularly handy for parents who are trying to map-read and deal with the demands of children in the back. However, be vigilant about removing it from your car when you leave it parked on the street—or someone else will remove it for you. Other desir- ables and essentials are:

• A fully charged mobile phone • Breakdown cover/roadside assistance. Europ Assistance (b 0844 338 55 33, www.europ-assistance.co.uk) has fair prices and an excellent reputation. If you do break down, tell the operator you have children so they’ll prioritise you. If you’re somewhere other cars could run into the back of you, such as on the hard shoulder of the motorway, it’s wise to get children out of the car. If you have a hire car, make sure the booking includes 24-hour roadside assistance. • Child seats. Under-10s must be seated in the back in France, except babies in rear-facing safety seats, though the latter must not be used if the front passenger seat is fitted with an airbag. Laws that came into force in the UK in 2006 require children under 13 (or under 136cm in height) to use a specialist seat for their age, except in certain mitigating circumstances. There is no such law in France and the types of car seats provided by the car-hire companies vary. Easycar, for instance, provides infant seats for babies up to 9 months (or 9kg) and boosters for children up to 10; Europ- car provides different seats for 0–12 months, 1–3 years and 4–7 years. You need to reserve them when you book your car; expect to pay about 17€ to 30€. If that seems expensive, it’s relatively hassle-free to bring your own car seat or booster by plane—they just go in the hold with your luggage (although they may come out at a separate point in the baggage hall; ask a member of staff if yours doesn’t materialise). A good source of information on car seats for both the UK and abroad is www.childcarseats. org.uk. • A first-aid kit; window shades; children’s travel pillows; a portable highchair (p. 25); a cooler box to replenish with drinks and snacks each time you set off; wipes, nappies and plastic bags (for nappies or motion sickness); blankets, sweaters and a change of clothes. • Audio CDs of your children’s favourite stories or songs, sticker books, crayons and paper, a magic slate, or a compact travel book with games and activities such as the Amazing Book-a-ma-thing for the Back- seat (Klutz, £10.99, from www.amazon.co.uk).

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38 2 Planning a Family Trip or site, for yourdestinationatitsweb- newspaper kiosks),orchecksites one inMarseilleorNice:try own motorhome,youcanhire Ifyou’renotbringingyour ter withaheftydeposit). and satellitenavigation(thelat- seats, beddingsets,bikeracks advisable. Youcanalsogetchild assistance areoptionalbuthighly waiver and24-hourbreakdown longer). Damageexcessliability long-term rental(2monthsor 1,500€, withspecialtermsfor high seasoncancost1,000€to ited mileageforoneweekin person motorhomewithunlim- see theFrench-language in France,includingcampsites, disposal andwater,forexample) motorhomes (thatprovidewaste 1,700 placesadaptedfor roadside. Tofindoutaboutthe allowed tostopovernightatthe a limitedtime.You’realsonot that tollticketsareonlyvalidfor motorway servicearea,butnote You canstopforafewhoursin to thesameroadrulesascars. Motorhomes Thesearesubject insurance. agreement toproveyouhavethis the Frenchpolicerental there. Youmightneedtoshow order toensureyou’recovered car isbeingtakentoFrancein inform therentalfirmthat UK intoFrance,youmust If youbringacarrentedinthe By Train www.motorhome-hirefrance.com system, runby the fr ing-Car Magazine , aheadofyourtrip. www.aviscaraway.com www.campingcar-magazine. France’snationalrail (availableat SNCF . Afour- Camp- , is

that thentakesyouto excellent clickableroutemap (available inEnglish)foran ( of theparty.The veryclear discount foruptofivemembers verte Enfantoffer,whichgivesa under 12,askabouttheDecou- elling withatleastonechild room). However,ifyou’retrav- ensure youhavesufficient want topayforanextraseat ent’s laponalltrains,unlessyou (under-4s travelfreeonapar- 14€ for achildaged4to11 Its famouslyzippy between citiesandlargertowns. and averygoodwayofgetting pared withtheBritishnetwork, efficient andinexpensivecom- expanding—see train’) networkisever- grande vitesse,aka‘veryfast voyages-sncf.com Maritimes andtheVar,you’ll and inlandpartsoftheAlpes- Haute-Provence, theVaucluse particularly theCamargue, to exploretheregionproperly, Menton andCannes.However, good seasideservicebetween Côte Bleuecoast.Italsorunsa Mortes andvillagesalongthe smaller townssuchasAigues The and Toulon. seille, Nice,Nîmes,St.-Raphaël Avignon, Cannes,Hyères,Mar- Aix-en-Provence, Antibes,Arles, served bytheTGV:itstopsat South ofFranceisprettywell in English)tobooktickets.The Nice (about2 a single ticketfromMarseilleto Expecttopayabout30€for need acar. www.ter-sncf.com regional trainservice 1 ⁄ 2 hours),and www.tgv.com (alsoavailable ) covers TGV www. (trainà

11/1/10 2:05 PM Essentials What Things Cost in Provence € 1 litre unleaded 95 petrol 1.27 Rental of medium-sized car (week) 200€–1,350€ City/town bus fare 1.20€ City/town bus fare, child aged over 5 same Single train fare Nîmes to Avignon, 9€ adult (45km) Single train fare, Nîmes to Avignon, child 4–11 5€ Single TGV fare Marseille to Nice, 30€ adult (211km) Single TGV fare, Marseille to Nice, child 4–11 15€ Admission to zoo, adult 13€ Admission to zoo, child 4–12 7€ Admission to public museum free Cinema ticket, adult 8€ Cinema ticket, child 6€ British newspaper 2.50€ Local telephone call (per minute) 0.03€–0.09€ European telephone call (per minute) 0.22€ Fixed-priced menu at mid-price restaurant 14€–18€ Under-12s menu at mid-price restaurant 9€ 1 litre of milk in supermarket 1€ 1 litre bottle of water in supermarket 0.60€ 6 Golden Delicious apples 3.50€ 5 bananas 1.99€ Packet of 30 Pampers in supermarket 11.30€ 900g tin of baby milk in supermarket 14€ Ham and cheese baguette from bakery 3.50€

online booking system will tell sometimes the tourist office) you if you need a seat reservation when you arrive, although if (compulsory on TGVs). you’re going to explore the region by public transport, it’s By Bus Getting around by bus good to do your research in is fairly easy, though be aware advance to plan your itinerary. that they are infrequent and Town and city centres in this sometimes leave at unsociably part of the world are fairly com- early hours—this is because they pact and easy to get around, so normally do the school run. you won’t really need to use a Some inter-town buses are less bus except in sprawling Marseille frequent during school holidays. (where you can also hop on a Most regional bus companies Métro or tram). Nice also have their own websites and are opened a tramway in 2007. included in the ‘Getting Around’ section of the sightseeing chap- By Taxi Taxi fares in this ters; you can also get a timetable region vary enormously and you from the local bus station (and are advised to ask how much a 39

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40 2 Planning a Family Trip hire. Allhireshopshave modation offersbikeloanor you mayfindthatyouraccom- give youlistsofhireoutletsor own bikes,touristofficescan of expensiveextras willpush high, andaseeminglyendless list dation. Roomratesareoften priced andoverratedaccommo- to plancarefullyavoidover- along theCôted’Azur,youhave If you’replanningtoholiday Accommodation & EATINGOUT ACCOMMODATION respective areas. details ofcycleroutesintheir offices andtheirwebsiteshave each individualcase.Tourist you needtotalktheSNCFin bike ontrainsisacomplexissue: lant atalltimes.Takingyour driving meansyoumustbevigi- though thenatureofFrench and sticktoquietcountrylanes, ers. Avoidbusytownsandroads seats andsometimeschildtrail- and mostcanalsoprovidechild By Bike alternative. fairly frequentbusortrain train station,there’susuallya you’re arrivingatanairportor Marseille areveryaffordable.If whereas thoseinNîmesand renowned forexpensivetaxis, mum of10€.Niceisalso (about 1km)wouldcostamini- taxi overthebridgetoBeaucaire example, insleepyTarascon,a commit totakingone.For journey willcostbeforeyou If youdon’tbringyour helmets and farmhouseaccommodation. campsites, smallcountryhotels active families—aswellasmore loan orhire,andotherkitfor with pools,mountainbikesfor offer hundredsofgîtes—some Maritimes andtheHautVar, tainous hinterlandoftheAlpes- Provence, aswellthemoun- cluse andAlpesdeHaute The verdantregionsoftheVau- campsites andholidayvillages. families, aswellwell-serviced priced resortscateringtoFrench accompanied bylow-key,better- along theCamarguecoastline, plenty oflong,emptybeaches up wellinadvance. and campsitestendtobebooked border, good-valuehotels,B&Bs St.-Tropez easttotheItalian your billupevenhigher.From châteaux-hotels properties except inthecaseofB&Bsand children, withoutbreakfast per nightfortwoadultsand lowing ranges,basedonlodgings sightseeing chaptersonthefol- modation’ sectionsofthe Inexpensive: Lessthan160€ Moderate: 160€–280€ Expensive: 280€–360€ Very expensive:Morethan360€ reviews fordetails). some hotels(seeindividualhotel egories hotels and Grasse),luxurious tourist areassuchasAvignon We havebasedthe Further west,you’llfind The costliest options are mostly The costliestoptionsaremostly orüber-stylish usedwithinthe‘Accom- inglitzybeach (inkeyinland boutique price cat- resort 11/1/10 2:05 PM destinations such as St.-Tropez, usually plenty—is generally a Accommodation & Eating Out Cannes or Antibes, with private better bet than paying extra in beach strips, gastronomic restau- your hotel, as hotel breakfasts rants, swimming pools, health throughout Provence are exorbi- and beauty spas, tennis courts tantly overpriced. and super-attentive service. These can be fabulous places to splash Hotels out on for the odd night or two. In the moderate to expensive For family trips, it makes more categories you’ll find good sea- sense to deal directly with indi- side hotels, often with pools, vidual hotels and other accom- games for families, supervised modation suppliers than book watersports and services includ- them through a website or booking child-minding and babysit- ing agency. Doing it by e-mail ting. In the moderate and (or, the old fashioned way, by budget categories, you’ll find a fax) lets you explain your needs range of off-the-peg, minimal- and make sure that the hotel pro- frills hotels and apartments run vides the services and facilities by chains that span France. you require, from bottle warmers Almost all the hotels and and cot linen to games consoles, chambres d’hôte chosen for this DVD players and mountain guide offer family rooms for up bikes. It also means you have the to four, or interconnecting details in writing in case of que- rooms or suites with comfortable ries or misunderstandings when sofa-beds. In a hotel, an apparte- you get there (in the worst-case ment isn’t what we’d call an scenario, you have proof if the apartment (there are no self- hotel doesn’t deliver what was catering facilities) but a one- or promised). Hotels often offer two-bedroom suite. Most hotels special low-season deals or last- and chambres d’hôte will provide minute prices on their websites, baby cots either free or for a though these are rarely available nominal extra charge. Continen- at peak family holiday times, tal breakfast is often included in and should always be treated the room price. At the lower end with caution—the rooms being of the price range, it generally offered at rock-bottom prices are comprises croissants, preserves, usually the worst and smallest in coffee and (often watered-down) the hotel, with no view and a juice, while at the top end the poor location, and are often long content is similar but the quality overdue for renovation. and quantity is superior. Either Still, for late-booking deals, way, children (and adults) may some of France’s centralised find French hotel breakfasts booking services can turn up monotonous after the first few trumps—for smaller hotels in days. If breakfast isn’t included Provence and all over France, in the room rate, eating at a check out www.guidesdecharme. nearby café—and there are com and www.logisdefrance.com. 41

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42 2 Planning a Family Trip apartment complexesattached to the bestofbothworlds:these are along theCôted’Azurandoffer Hotel-residences arecommon Hotel-residences washbasins butsharedWCsandshowers. com Amongthemostubiquitouschainsare fast ofcoffee,juice,croissantsandpreservesforaround5€perperson. access yourroom.Eventhesimplestofthemofferacontinentalbreak- when youbook—punchinthecodeonakeypadtoenterhoteland unmanned modulehotelssimplyissueyouwithaone-timePINcode Thesehotelscanusuallybebookedonline.Themostbasic,virtually spartan, thoughyoungerfamilymemberstendtofindthemratherfun. single bunkaboveadoublebed,cabin-stylebedroomscanbebit stop thatdoesn’tinvolvestrayingtoofaroffthe early flightortrain,drivingthroughFranceandinneedofanovernight value formoneyif,example,youarearrivinglateatnight,takingan night ortwo.However,theydooffergreatconvenienceandexcellent junctions, France’sno-frillshotelsarenotplacestospendmorethana Strategically locatednearairports,trainstationsandmotorway between ProvenceandtheChannelferryports. the PromenadedesAnglais),inAixandLyon—handyforastopover heart ofthePradodistrictandclosetooldharbour),inNice(close to for familiesvisitingbiggercities,theycanbefoundinMarseille (inthe equipped kitchenette,cotsbyrequest,air-conditioningandWi-Fi. Ideal plus asmallsittingroomwithcomfortablesofabedand afully formule1.com with ensuiteshowerandWC.

the Moreup-market,andbetterforlongerstays,aretheapartmentsof squeaky clean,user-friendlyandabovealleasytofind. day, butforonenight—orevenaweekend—theyareverywell-priced, elsewhere. Wewouldn’trecommendthesehotelsforalongfamilyholi- Antibes, Arles,Avignon,Cannes,Fréjus,Marseille,Menton,Niceand Toulon. Itssister-chain,Kyriade,alsohasvalue-for-moneyhotelsinAix, find CampanilesinAix,Arles,Avignon,Marseille,Nice,Orangeand rooms foraround90€(sleepinguptofivepeople).InProvenceyou’ll and awiderangeofspecialoffersforfamilies,includinginterconnecting Campanile Citadines ) hassimilaraccommodationforaround40€perroomnight, ), whichoffersroomsforaround30€pernight,with chain( ( www.campanile.com www.citadines.com No-frills Hotels children’s club aswell. health centre,aspaandoften a taurants, bars,pools,agymand use ofhotelfacilitiessuchas res- of self-cateringalongwiththe hotels, soyouhavetheflexibility ) haspropertiesalloverFrance ), withadoublebedroom Formule 1 Etap autoroute. Withone ( www.etaphotel. ( www.hotel

11/1/10 2:05 PM Holiday Villages the garden, and in the simplest Accommodation & Eating Out Provence has numerous ‘holiday holiday apartment you may be villages’ both along the coast and reduced to heating up a tin of inland, often in lakeside or river- beans on a two-ring electric side locations, and these are hotplate. great for families on a budget, The Provençal coast is not the offering clean, simple accommo- best place to look for a quaint dation in self-catering chalets, old seaside cottage. However, apartments or sometimes mobile you don’t have to head very far homes with enough space out- inland to find lovely converted side for toddlers to romp safely. stone farmhouses, often with The big attraction is that, in fairly extensive gardens and their addition, they offer the kind of own swimming pools. Built facilities you would expect to originally for large peasant fami- find in a more expensive, full- lies, these houses have more than service hotel, such as pools for enough space for most British children and adults, supervised families. I think they offer the children’s clubs and activities best family accommodation in for children of all ages, and facil- Provence, with very affordable ities for sports such as tennis, prices compared with hotels, and volleyball and archery. usually excellent facilities. You can count on a fully equipped Vacanciel (www.vacanciel. kitchen, usually with a dish- com) has several holiday villages in the region, in a choice of sea- washer and a washing machine; side, lakeside and mountain secure parking; and in most cases locations. You can also try Club satellite TV and/or a DVD player. However, check facilities Med (www.clubmed.com) in carefully before committing Opio; VVF Vacances (www. yourselves. Sites with pools cost vvf-vacances.fr) in Grasse, La Colle sur Loup and Toulon; and more, but that’s money well spent. Location is important too: Pierre et Vacances (www.pierre ideally, you want to be within etvacances.com) in 16 locations across the Alpes-Maritimes, walking distance of a village with Var and Bouches-du-Rhône. a couple of shops and at least one café-bar. You can book gîtes directly on several good websites, Gîtes, Villas & Apartments including www.gîtesdefrance. com, www.interhome.co.uk and We have lumped all of these www.frenchconnections.co.uk, together because they come though for peace of mind I under the heading of self-cater- would strongly recommend ing options—though, of course, booking through one of several in the grandest of Riviera villas specialist UK-based companies that catering may be undertaken that offer high-quality gîte and by your resident cook or house- villa accommodation in keeper, whereas in a rural gîte Provence, and also ease your way you might barbecue dinner in 43

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44 2 Planning a Family Trip holidayfrance.org.uk companies arelistedon Such specialistgîteandvilla by bookingflightsandcarhire. ments, canopies andfully tents withmultiplecompart- vacances undercanvasinhuge families spendtheirsummer to afineart,andmanyFrench The Frenchhavecampingdown Campsites Independent TourOperators. the websiteofAssociation France, andon British TourOperatorsto website oftheAssociation guage skills. great wayforchildrenwhospeaksomeFrenchtoimprovetheirlan- Some ownersspeakEnglish,whereindicated,butthisisobviouslya modating justtwotofivechildrenonafarm, of asimilarage.Thereare idea, atleastthefirsttime,tosendachildwithsibling,cousinorfriend ‘adult time’andperhapsevenabitofpampering.It’sgenerallygood nearby, youcanpopinandseethemeveryday,whilegrabbingsome wildlife, theymightenjoydoingthisforaweek.Ifyoustayinhotel else. However,ifthey’reindependentandenjoydiscoveringnature day tospendtimewithyourchildren,notfobthemoffonsomebody canoeing, ridingandsailing.You’reprobablythinkingyoucameonholi- going onpicnics,danceandforeign-languagelessons,handicrafts, include buttermaking,rambling,makingherbgardens,pickingflowers, the Frenchdepartmentofhealthandsocialservices.Activitiesmight host’s ownfamily)atanestablishment—usuallyafarm—inspectedby country lifeandoutdooractivitieswithotherchildren(oftenincludingthe This school-holidayprogrammeallowschildrenaged4–16toenjoy For children’s places offeractivitiesbytheday. with moreactivesports.Expecttopayjustunder300€perweek.Some tant, and more childrenaged6–10,wheretheownerishelpedbyatrainedassis- Gîtes d’Enfants(Children’s) Clubs Jeunes www.aito.co.uk gîtes bydépartement,see , theofficial www. forbetween12and35childrenaged11–16, Mini-Gîtes , Provence rangefromhugeand cater forthem,campsitesin quipped outdoorkitchens.To the placetohead foristhe hurly-burly oftheCôted’Azur, site butdon’tfancythe ing foraspellatbeachcamp- and theVaucluse.Ifyou’relook- tain lakesintheHaute-Provence in quietvalleysorbesidemoun- ting—to smallsitestuckedaway clubs, childmindingandbabysit- courts, aswellchildren’s beaches, watersportsandtennis pools, aqua-parks,private Côte d’Azur—completewith resorts ontheRivieraand bustling four-andfive-star for ages4–10,generallyaccom- www.gîtes-de-france.fr Junior-Gîtes forsixor .

11/1/10 2:05 PM Camargue coast. Here, there are and WC. UK-based holiday Accommodation & Eating Out miles of empty sand even in high company Alan Rogers Travel summer, and youngsters can (b 01580 214 000, www.alan walk straight from the tent to a rogers.travel) offers a hand- beach with pedalos, canoes and picked selection of excellent watchful lifeguards. campsites throughout France. If you’re planning to tour the Club Cantabrica (b 01727 866 region by car (or if you’re driv- 177, www.cantabrica.co.uk) offers ing to Provence from the UK), lodge-style accommodation in camping can be a great option. beachside campsites at Port Gri- You don’t have to worry about maud and Antibes, starting at finding a place to leave the car, only 75€ per person per week, unloading valuables or navigat- with coach transport from the ing your way through a baffling UK, free child travel and a range maze of narrow one-way streets of family saver packages. to a hotel in one of the region’s historic towns—you just roll up, Youth Hostels park and pitch your tent. Most French campsites have at least a For families, youth hostels in basic restaurant (in summer) Provence are generally a desper- serving child-friendly meals, ate last resort if there isn’t any- drinks and snacks, usually until where else to stay. They are about 10pm, and most rural sites usually chock-full of young have pools for toddlers as well as backpackers throughout the for teenagers and adults. They’ll year, so turning up without a also have communal showers, reservation isn’t a good idea. If barbecue areas and usually a you are on a minimal budget coin-operated launderette. Sev- and don’t mind mucking in, eral British companies, including however, they are undeniably Canvas Holidays (p. 34), offer cheap and fun, with family camping holidays in Provence. rooms sleeping four to six people These companies save you the in bunk beds, communal kitch- trouble of pitching your own ens, launderettes and games tent by providing ready-made rooms. Single-parent families accommodation under canvas (p. 28) sometimes get special with separate ‘rooms’ for differ- rates. ent members of the family. The French hostelling associ- If you’d like something a lit- ation website, www.fuaj.org, tle more solid and luxurious but translated (somewhat eccentri- still with that campsite feel, cally) into English, has links to many sites on the Provençal individual hostel websites (where coast also offer accommodation they exist) but does not list pri- in self-contained self-catering vately run hostels or those run bungalows or mobile homes by other organisations. with two or more bedrooms, Expect to pay around 12€ per kitchen-diner, ensuite shower person in a four-person room, 45

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46 2 Planning a Family Trip region have enjoy apost-prandialcoffee. the villagesquarewhileyou let thechildrenpotteraround free, whichmeansthatyoucan towns andvillagesaretraffic- the historiccentresofmany encourages alfrescoeating,and coming tochildren.Theclimate ously rudeexception)arewel- and cafés(withtheoddnotori- over-inflated. indifferent, andtheprices mediocre, theservicesurlyand of venueswherethefoodis money havealsoseenthearrival the Provençalfondnessforquick famous, butmasstourismand patronised bytherichand Michelin-starred restaurants share ofworld-famous, The regionhasmorethanits isn’t alwaysthecaseinProvence. demanding gourmet.Sadly,that cover amealworthyofthemost est small-townbistroanddis- which youcanwalkintoamod- that Franceisstillacountryin the cuisinealone,inbelief Some peoplecometoFrancefor Dining FUAJ. annual familymembershipof including breakfast,plus23€for eating onthestreet—youcan those boredofsittingdownis cream. Aquickalternativefor main course,followedbyice and chips,pizzaorpastaasa (a burgerbyanyothername) the standardchoiceissteakhaché (generally about10€),although Many restaurantsinthis That said,mostrestaurants children’s menus

and resorts. ner shopsinmostcoastaltowns 0.50€ to4€)fromstallsandcor- get greatpizzabytheslice(about recommendations). a must(p. 25forsome or afoldablefabriconeisalmost blow-up travellingboosterseat double asachild’scarseat), table highchair(onethatcan come, first-servedbasis,soapor- but theseareavailableonafirst- get familyblood-sugar levels parents withanopportunity to are oftenopenallday,providing after 2pm.Thatsaid,brasseries to findanywhereservinglunch towns andvillages,don’texpect 10pm). Insmaller,hinterland (generally noonto3pmand7 dard lunchanddinnerhours sit-down mealsoutsidethestan- hard tofindrestaurantsserving cities andresortsitcanstillbe although outsidemajorcoastal than inmuchofFrance, d’Azur insummerarelessrigid ally haveatleastone regional chapters. flagged upintherelevant ourable exceptions,whichare However, therearesomehon- and mostexpensiverestaurants. menus oftheregion’sposhest appears onthedegustation native vegetarianfaregenerally ing salads,andthereallyimagi- even themostinnocuous-seem- manage tofindtheirwayinto products inoneformoranother user-friendly. Meatorseafood and otherareasofProvenceless Côte d’Azurthebestplacetogo, Vegetarians Mealtimes ontheCôte Restaurants andcafésgener- willfindthe highchair 11/1/10 2:05 PM , back up to normal with sweet or THE 21ST-CENTURY The 21st-Century Traveller savoury pancakes or ever-useful TRAVELLER standbys such as sandwich jam- bon or sandwich fromage. These Mobile Phones bar-restaurants—and other French eating and drinking Mobile phones are indispensable spots—became a bit more fam- for travelling families, and most ily-friendly from 2008, when the British mobiles automatically French government finally switch to a French network on banned smoking in bars and res- arrival. Check before leaving taurants entirely. However, that your phone is set up for smoking is still permissible at international roaming and that outdoor tables, so you and your you can access your voice mail family may still be exposed to while abroad. fumes when dining alfresco. Under pressure from the EU, mobile phone companies have INSIDER TIP abolished exorbitant roaming Always take a portable changing charges and have made big cuts mat and wipes with you to restaurants as very few places in in the cost of phoning and tex- Provence have a nappy-changing ting across most of Europe, area. including France. However, if you expect to make a lot of calls, The ‘Family-friendly Dining’ you may be able to cut your sections of the sightseeing chap- costs still further by buying a ters in this book cover as wide a French pay-as-you-go SIM card, range of eating options as possi- available before you leave the ble, from tasty, street-level pizze- UK from www.0044.co.uk (which rias to dazzling gastronomic sells pay-as-you-go packs from restaurants that welcome chil- £39.99, with calls costing 20p dren but will also appeal if you per minute), or in the US from fancy a rare night out without www.gosim.com. them. Bear in mind that virtu- Mobile phone coverage in ally every restaurant offers set southern France is generally menus (menu) for lunch and good, but in mountainous areas dinner, which are a lot more or the deep valleys of Alpes de budget-friendly than ordering a Haute-Provence it may be diffi- la carte. Price categories are cult to get a signal. Note that based on two adults and two you can sometimes use text mes- children eating two courses plus saging even when the signal isn’t drinks: good enough for voice. If you’re planning a longer Expensive: More than 120€ stay or come to France regularly, you could buy a pay-as-you-go Moderate: 45€–120€ (sans abonnement) phone from Inexpensive: less than 45€ one of the Orange, Bouygtel or SFR shops that can be found on 47

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48 2 Planning a Family Trip or Géant. ket suchasIntermarche,Leclerc towns, orfromalargesupermar- the mainstreetsofmostFrench Félix Faure( Provence; 15quaiRiveNeuve( UK mobile,even ifbothphones regional code).Tocallanother initial zerofromthe2-digit phone number(droppingthe code (0033)thenthelocal you willneedtodialthecountry To useamobilewithinFrance, a Mobile How toDialWithinCountryon worth checkingbeforeyouleave. The website you plantomakealotofcalls. SIM cardcansaveyoumoneyif Again, installinganinternational international roamingactivated. phone ontheGSMsystem,with have aworld-capablemultiband basically thesameprovidedyou such astheUS,situationis For thosefromfurtherafield, US Travellers bis coursSaleya( The greatfoodat at 33quaidesBelges( before theytuckintotheirtwo-coursechildren’smenu.ThereareHippopotami ( fr ( Anationalchainspecialisinginsteaks, bag’ present.Branchesareat:33coursMirabeau( a is madeonthepremises,andthere’sachoiceofgood-valuemenus,including b b ) keepsunder-12sentertainedwithcrayons,drawingbooksandballoons TIP menu bambinowithpizzaorchickenspaghetti,dessertanda‘goody

04 668060 04 66760121 Provence’sBestChild-friendlyChains b

www.gosim.com 04 93924277 ) inNîmes. ) inNîmes. La PiazzaPapa b

04 93856191 b

04 915940 ) inNice;and802AncienneRoutedeGénérac is b

04 91598224 ( ) inNice;and8boulevardAmiralCourbet www.piazzapapa.fr Hippopotamus ) inMarseille’sVieuxPort;16avenue cybercaptive.com interface have Internetkiosksinthestreet. offices, andsomemajorcities sive) Internetaccessinsomepost account. Ifitdoesn’t,setup a (ISP) ifithasa your internetserviceprovider A goodFrenchsiteis libraries whether in a choiceofInternetaccesspoints, Large citiesandmosttownshave Internet &Wi-Fi drop theinitialzero. are inFrance,dial(0044)then account free Web-basede-mail www.cybercafe.com and or cafe.fr and publicphones,seep. 53. with alist,andwebsitessuchas Tourist officeswillprovideyou www.yahoo.com To For informationabout international diallingcodes . Youcanalsoget(expen- retrieve youre-mails ) inMarseille’sVieuxPort;13 b orthe with tiedtoyourexisting

04 42267202 cybercafés ( ), includingthepasta, www.hippopotamus. www.hotmail.com Web-based tourist office canbehelpful. , forexample. and www.cyber , ) inAix-en- www. public area , ask . 11/1/10 2:05 PM

You might want to start one up places do not provide linen for Fast Facts: Provence anyway as a back-up to your their cots because of allergy risks. existing account. For equipment rental, see p. 25. Most hotels have a terminal Supermarkets, especially in the reception area where you larger ones such as the Carre- can access the Internet (for free four, Géant or Auchan chains, or a small charge) or a means by are good for baby equipment, which you can access it from from nappies and jarred food to your laptop. The latter could be baths and car seats. Many out- either through a modem connec- of-town centres commerciales tion/dataport in your room (shopping malls) have baby and (you’ll pay for it as you would a toddler supermarkets such as phone call, and this can be Bebe 9 (www.bebe9.com)—there expensive; you might also need are branches at Aix, Carpentras, an adaptor) or, increasingly, Cavaillon, Fréjus, Gap, Marseille through Wi-Fi, for which you’ll and elsewhere. need to obtain a code from the Babysitting Most expensive and receptionist (it’s a good idea to some moderately priced hotels check in advance if it’s available offer babysitting services, usually in your room as well as in public sub-contracted to local agencies areas and if there’s a charge). and requiring at least 24 hours’ Wi-Fi is also available in many notice. You usually pay the sitter airports and cafés (see www. directly and rates average 8€ to journaldunet.com/Wi-Fi). 13€ per hour. Some gîte owners If you’re a touch typist and also offer babysitting. need to do a lot of e-mailing, French keyboards don’t work Banks Normally open from on the QWERTY principle and 9:30am to 4:30pm Monday to will slow you down. For exam- Friday except public holidays. ple, the ‘@’ sign (known as arro- Branches in smaller towns and baz in French) is normally above suburbs often close from 12.30 the number 2. to 2pm. Most have 24-hour ATMs (p. 22). FAST FACTS: Breastfeeding Breastfeeding in public is much less common in PROVENCE France than in the UK, and you may get stared at, especially if Area codes See ‘Telephone’, you’re feeding an older infant. p. 53. It’s odd, considering that naked Baby equipment Most hotels, breasts are a far from unusual B&Bs and gîtes can provide cots, sight along the Provençal coast often for a charge (around 8€ on in summer. You can brazen it average), and some offer other out, since breastfeeding is your equipment such as bottle warm- right, or you may prefer to find ers and changing mats. Some a secluded spot. 49

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50 2 Planning a Family Trip kets Business Hours generally openat9or10am (7 night. Shopsoutsidelargetowns of milkatanytimethedayor You can’tjustnipoutforapint pace andalotmoreplanning. ture, Francerequiresachangeof to Britain’s24/7shoppingcul- summer, manylarge break from12:30to2:30pm. In 6 or7pm,witha2-hourlunch or 8amforbakeries)andclose at Castle older childrenmightenjoyAgathaChristie’smurdermysteryclassic, one-volume translationas and goodbookstoreadaloudyourchildren. childhood setinthethyme-androsemary-scentedhillsaboveMarseille, The MysteryoftheBlueTrain phants isimmortalisedinJeandeBrunhoff’s children’s classicssetwithintheregion.Ste.-Maxime’sPlagedesÉlé- An excellentwayofinterestingchildreninProvenceisthrough La GloiredeMonPèreand younger childrenvisitingtheBouches-du-Rhône. and hishomeinArlesthroughillustrations.Bothbooksaregoodfor cent vanGogh,byCarolineBreunesse,describeVincentGogh Camille andtheSunflowers,byLaurenceAnholt,VisitingVin- ing thetruffle-richVaucluse. illustrations aboutatruffle-huntingpig—perfectforyoungchildrenvisit- The TruffleHunter, Lapin andMonsieurBlanc)runningacaféinProvence. picture bookabouttwogastronomicrabbits(aptlynamedMonsieur Rabbit Pirates,byJudyCoxandEmilyArnoldMcCully,isanillustrated nibalistic prayingmantis. green grasshopperstomaternalscorpions,shrillcicadasandthecan- Provence’s vastsummermenagerieofcreepy-crawlies,fromgiant 10-year-old sonPaul.Thisnovelshouldstokechildren’sinterestin by theinsectsofhishomeland,recountedthrougheyes French entomologistJeanHenriFabre,aProvençalfarmerfascinated Children ofSummer,byMargaretJ.Anderson,whichtellsthetale fun bookstogetyourchildreninthemoodinclude: stayopenallday until9or ), byMarcelPagnol,arehumorousmemoirsofaProvençal Forthoseused supermar- byIngaMoore,isapicturebookwithexcellent Lire &Learn My Father’sGlory Le ChâteaudeMaMère , setalongtheFrenchRiviera.Other 10pm; largertowns andresorts from noonto2:30pmand7 to Restaurants generallyopen for localsoftenstayopenlonger. Nice andAvignon,whereshops parts ofcitiessuchasMarseille, to lookintheslightlyscruffier of-hours shopping,agoodtipis but closeonMonday.Forout- there isaSundaymarketnearby, open onSundaymorningif shops (butfewsupermarkets) 10pm intheevening.Some Voyage ofBabar and My Mother’s (availableina , while

11/1/10 2:05 PM Fast Facts: Provence Getting the Children Interested in Provence

As well as using this book to involve your children in planning their trip and picking the sights they want to see and the things they want to do, introduce them to publications such as Bonjour France! (Rebecca Welby, Beautiful Books), with games, maps, puzzles and activities for 7- to 12-year-olds. It also includes ideas for beach games and indoor games for rainy days. Most of the well-loved Madeline books by Ludwig Bemelmans, about the escapades of a French schoolgirl, are set in Paris, but Madeline Says Merci: The Always Be Polite Book (republished in 2006 and available from www.amazon.co.uk and www. amazon.com) is a good way of getting youngsters aged 4 to 10 interested in France and French ways and learning some essential French phrases. Astérix, the cunning little Gaul, and his lumbering sidekick Obélix are also good comic-book companions for children travelling in France. Astérix’s home is in Brittany, but he passes through Provence and its great seaport, Marseille, on at least one of his adventures in the ancient world. The Astérix books are available in English as well as French. The French take bandes dessinées (comic books) much more seriously than we do, and most bookshops have long shelves packed with graphic sketches for all ages (be aware that some of them are perhaps a little too graphic for younger readers). True fans should visit the Comic Strips Café bookshop (p. 77) in Antibes.

usually have some with service Car Rental See p. 36. continu. Climate See ‘When to Go’, Public museums close on p. 22. Monday or Tuesday and on public holidays, but most tourist Currency See ‘Money’, p. 21. sites open on public and school Customs & Duty-free holidays. The Côte d’Azur is a See less seasonal holiday region than p. 19. many parts of France, but even Doctors Some hotels have an so, many attractions and hotels expensive private doctor on call, close for part or all of the winter and most accommodation pro- and many restaurants take a viders will be happy to help you break of up to a month, usually contact a doctor in a minor after Christmas. In the moun- emergency. Local newspapers list tainous hinterland, where win- doctors on call (medecins de ters are harsh but where winter service). sports do not really flourish, Driving Rules many gîtes, campsites and See p. 36. rural hotels close for the winter. 51

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52 2 Planning a Family Trip 2.30–6pm Mon–Fri. 51 3100 ish Embassy an ambulancecall do anythingelse.Otherwise,for so callthefrontdeskbeforeyou trained todealwithemergencies, company. embassy, consulateorinsurance hotels willlendyouone. to usethetwo-pinsockets.Most able fromFrenchsupermarkets) you willneedanadapter(avail- adequate forUKappliances,but 220-volt, 50-cycleACandis Legal Aid Internet &Wi-Fi Hospitals Holidays b Emergencies Embassies &Consulates Electricity du Prado,Marseille, bourg St.-Honoré,Paris 72 10 gov.uk 2–4.30pm Mon–Fri. Hôpital orCentreHospitalier. posted HôteldeDieuratherthan hospitals aresometimessign- for anambulance.Notethat the nearesthospitalthantowait be quickertodriveyourself injured person,itwillprobably it isdangeroustomovethe tial. Inminoremergencies,unless adequate travelinsuranceisessen- bursement ambulance serviceandclaimreim- You willbeexpectedtopayfor the sectionabovethis.

17 British Consulate , andforthefireservice , open9am–noonand , open9:30am–1pmand , www.britishembassy. Seep. 23. Contactyour See‘Emergencies’,in from yourinsurer,so Electricityrunson , 35rueduFau- Hotelstaffare Seep. 48. b

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18 . able from Tourist &Motoringatlases(avail- good roadatlas.TheMichelin the road,equipyourselfwitha your route,seep. 19and52.On collect yourmail. identity andpayasmallfeeto You willneedtoshowproofof Centrale, intherelevanttown. name c/oPosteRestante, the sendertoaddressityour receive mailwhiletravelling,ask post offices.Ifyouneedto tobacconists (tabacs)aswell to 5days.Stampsaresoldat than 20gcost0.55€andtake1 letters totheUKweighingless urday 9amtonoon.Postcardsor 12:30pm and2to5pmSat- Monday toFriday9am lages, theyareusuallyopen noon. Insmallertownsandvil- to 7pmandSaturday8am ally openMondaytoFriday8am detail. aboard ferries)havethebest at petrolstations,portshopsand company immediately—for stolen cards,calltherelevant also ‘Money’, p. 21.Forlost/ Mail Lost Property AmEx Money &CreditCards Mobile Phones Maps police station. illegally parked,askatthelocal have beentowedawayforbeing below. Ifyouthinkyourcarmay see ‘Money&CreditCards’, consulate. Forlostcreditcards, ports, contactyourembassyor est policestation.Forlostpass- Citypostofficesaregener- Foronlinesourcestoplot b

01 47777200 www.amazon.co.uk Gotothenear- Seep. 47. , for See Visa and 11/1/10 2:05 PM

Fast Facts: Provence b 08 92 70 57 05, for Diners b 08 money or valuables where they 10 31 41 59 and for MasterCard can be seen (theft from cars is b 01 45 67 84 84. In emergencies, common) and be wary of pick- you can have money wired to pockets and bag snatchers. Do you online, by phone or from an not walk alone at night in unlit agent’s office through Western public spaces. Union (b 08 00 83 38 33, www. Shopping Hours See ‘Business westernunion.com). Hours’, above. Newspapers & Magazines Smoking See p. 47. British newspapers (often available on the day of publication) Taxes Value-added tax (TVA) are sold at many newsagents and of 19.6% is included in the price newsstands along the Riviera and of most goods and hotel and res- the Côte d’Azur, in Marseille and taurant services. in Avignon, but are less widely Taxis There are taxi ranks at all available in rural areas. The Con- airports, in city centres and at nexion, published monthly at main railway stations and bus 2.40€, is an English-language terminals. Taxis can also be newspaper aimed at British expa- flagged down on the street, or triates living in France. called from the reception desk of Pets See p. 20. hotels, restaurants and bars. Check that your taxi has a meter Pharmacies Chemists are sign- and that it is switched on, and posted by a prominent green ask the driver for an estimated cross; staff can provide first aid fare before setting out. in minor emergencies and dis- pense a range of remedies Telephone All phone numbers (including some antibiotics) that are 10 digits, including a two- would require a doctor’s pre- digit area code (b 04 for scription in the UK. Rotas of Provence) that you must dial pharmacies operating outside even when calling from within normal hours (9am to 1:30pm the area. Numbers starting with and 2:30 to 8pm Monday to b 06 are mobile numbers and Friday, and 9am to 1:30pm Sat- will cost more to call. b 08 00- urday) are posted in every phar- and b 08 05-prefixed numbers macy window. are toll-free within France. Other numbers with the b 08 Police In emergencies call b 17. prefix have differing rates. For thefts and insurance claims, To call a French number file a report at the nearest police from abroad (or when using a station. British mobile phone in France) Post Offices See ‘Mail’, above. drop the initial 0 of the area code after dialling the interna- Safety See also p. 25. The usual tional code (b 00 33 from the common-sense tips apply as they UK). To call the UK from would at home. Don’t leave France, dial b 00 44 then the 53

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54 2 Planning a Family Trip you wish. (10% to15%)maybeaddedif your bill.However,anextratip service chargehasbeenaddedto ahead ofESTintheUS. ahead ofUKtimeand6hours sign cantakeincomingcalls. Phone-boxes withabluebell cartes startat7.40€for50units. use publicphoneboxes.Télé- tobacconist ornewsagentand (télécarte) fromapostoffice, save money,buyaphonecard can thosefromhotelphones.To phone chargescanbehigh,as tial 0. Internationalmobile British numberminustheini- less thanpristine.Toiletsat and busterminals,butcanbe large townsinrailwaystations lic toiletscanbefoundinmost Toilets &Baby-changing Tipping Time Zone Servicecomprismeansa Franceis1hour Pub- Weather Water mat. armed withaportablefolding intercity TGVtrains),soarrive available atairportsandon facilities (sucharealso museums havebaby-changing as themeparks,aquariumsand oriented touristattractionssuch places exceptlargefamily- ment storesareabetterbet.Few large supermarketsanddepart- even smellier.Bars,cafésand autoroute serviceareascanbe pétillante (mildlyfizzy). gaz (still),gazeuse(sparkling)or tled mineralwater),eithersans buy expensiveeauminerale(bot- siastically trytopersuadeyou though mostwaiterswillenthu- chilled tapwater(eauderobinet), matically serveyouacarafeof to drink.Manyrestaurantsauto- Frenchtapwaterissafe Seep. 22. 11/1/10 2:05 PM 3 Monaco & the French Riviera

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56 3 Monaco & the French Riviera prams; bowlingandskatingat thenewNiBoxin offer activefamilies:citrus-filled gardensinMentonformumspushing 3,000 hoursofsunshineayear,thisall-seasonsdestination has muchto so manyadmirers,fromCocoChaneltoF.ScottFitzgerald. With bright-blue Mediterranean,besidesun-drenchedshoresthat havelured jazz asyouwanderdownitspalm-fringedavenuesandbathe inthe playground foraristocrats,actorsandwell-heeledEuropeans. Listento S MONACO &THEFRENCHRIVIERA and stripedreclinersforsleep-deprived parents. beaches inCanneswithbouncy castlesfortoddlers,parasailingteens Gourdon Gourdon la-Napoule Mandelieu- la-Napoule Mandelieu- 22 N85 0 0 ValbonneValbonne Roquefort- Roquefort- A8 La-Napoule neartheVar, tretching fromMentonneartheItalianbordertoMandelieu- E80 Airport les-Pins les-Pins D3 D6 Mougins Mougins Vallauris Vallauris 5 km Cannes Cannes Tourettes- Tourettes- sur-Loup sur-Loup D4 Coursegoules Coursegoules 21 D2085 5 mi 20 Villeneuve- Villeneuve- D2 les-Pins les-Pins Biot Biot Juan- Juan- Loubet Loubet 11 Vence Vence D36 Antibes Antibes 12 18 19 Visiobulle 18 3 Villa Grecque Kérylos Square deVerdun 4 Musée Renoir10 Musée Picasso12 Musée NationalPicasso20 Menton’s Gardens1 Marineland 15 La Petite Ferme duFar West 13 Îles desLérins21 d’Antibes14 Ecole deVoile, Yacht Club Attractions 13 sur-Mer Cagnes- sur-Mer Cagnes- 16 10 Colomars Colomars 14 17 15 theFrenchRivieracoastlineisagolden N202

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9 8 Cap-Ferrat S Cap-Ferrat St.-Jean- E St.-Jean- 3 A Royal Riviera 6 Les Cigales22 La Jabotte17 Hôtel Welcome 5 Hôtel La FiancéeduPirate 7 Eza Vista2 Camping Parc MontanaLe Sourire 11 Camping duPylone16 Accommodation Restaurant La Goélette9 Les Pêcheurs 19 La Italien8 PizzeriaduGourmet Dining 4 D2204 Beaulieu-sur-Mer Beaulieu-sur-Mer Monaco; La Turbie La Turbie Eze Eze 6 5 2 7 Marseille A8 Avignon Area of and private andprivate MONACO FRANCE detail E80 Carlo Monte- Carlo Monte- St.-Tropez

ITALY Menton Menton 1 11/1/10 2:05 PM Sandy seaside resorts such as Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and Cannes Visitor Information provide popular bases for families holidaying on the Riviera, but make sure you fit in a day trip to Nice: the region’s capital greeted the new decade with freshly renovated Belle Epoque squares, high- tech trams and world-class museums where kids can learn about art through brightly coloured canvases by Chagall or Matisse. Aquaria along the coastline also offer not-to-be-missed days out. The Oceanographic Museum in Monaco celebrated its 100th anniversary with a Damien Hirst exhibition and the purchase of a 150-million-year-old reptile called Anna. At the same time, Europe’s largest marine park, Marineland in Antibes, showed off its latest arrivals: two polar bears whose 3.5€ million refrigerated home comes complete with year-round snow, 24-hour surveillance and a mater- nity den. By contrast, the sale of the much-loved Cap-Ferrat Zoo in Saint-Jean–Cap-Ferrat to a British hotel developer upset so many Rivera-based families that local newspaper Nice Matin joined forces with Villefranche-sur-Mer council in a campaign to buy it back. The term ‘French Riviera’ is often used interchangeably with Côte d’Azur (‘azure coast’), a phrase conjured up in the 19th century by would-be poet Stéphane Liégeard to sum up the bright-blue sea and cloudless skies of this golden coastline. However, these two names don’t actually refer to the same precise area: the Côte d’Azur stretches from Menton in the Alpes-Maritimes to Hyères in the Var, while the French Riviera refers only to the Alpes-Maritimes coastline. Whatever you call it, be warned that separating the underval- ued from the overpriced in this corner of Southern France needs careful planning, especially in peak season.

VISITOR information in English on INFORMATION events, activities, shopping and childcare. The French Riviera Regional Tourism Committee website, Getting There www.cotedazur-tourisme.com, has useful information on attractions By Air British Airways runs and events, as well as a practical numerous direct flights between guide to help you prepare for Nice and London airports, your stay. The site also has list- including Heathrow and Lon- ings for local tourist offices don City; they take approxi- throughout the region. Other mately 2 hours. easyJet runs useful resources for parents stay- flights between Nice and Lon- ing on the Côte d’Azur include don airports Gatwick, Stansted http://kidookid.com and www. and Luton, plus other UK desti- familyfirst.fr, which both provide nations including Belfast, Bris- tol, East Midlands, Edinburgh, 57

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58 3 Monaco & the French Riviera (Central TaxiRivieraNice, find cashmachines,taxiranks Promenade desAnglais.You’ll 10 minutes’drivefromthe neuve-Loubet-Plage, Cagnes- Golfe-Juan, Juan-les-Pins,Ville- most seasideresorts,including take youalongthecoastlineto RegionalTERtrainscanthen about 9hours. saving option).Thejourneytakes between platforms(agreattime- Nord toGaredeLyon,orinLille change inParisfromtheGaredu to Antibes,CannesandNice;you a combinedEurostar/TGVticket Martin andMenton. Monaco, Roquebrune–Cap- sur-Mer, Eze,Capd’Ail, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu- sur-Mer, Saint-Laurent-du-Var, English) orcall 05 Gatwick. Cork, DublinandLondon with AerLingustoNicefrom and Jersey.Therearealsoflights has flightsfromSouthampton and EastMidlands,whileFlybe flies toNicefromBirmingham Liverpool andNewcastle. ( 518 6186,www.eurostar.com By Train Hertz Europcar port include Car-hire companiesatNiceAir- Citer aeroport.fr 93 1378 information, goto terminals 1and2.Formore into thecentrebesideArrivalsat b ),

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Cannes (takes10minutesfrom hour tokeydestinationssuch as resorts, withseveraltrainsper border), stoppingatmostseaside Ventimiglia (acrosstheItalian from Mandelieu-La-Napoule to vice runsalongthecoastline port. AregionalTERtrainser- easily accessiblebypublictrans- The FrenchRivieracoastlineis Getting Around are usuallywellsignposted. tions alongtheFrenchRiviera restaurants, hotelsandattrac- from MentontoNice.Major three minorroadsthatwind along theCorniches(p. 66)— you canenjoythepanoramas from AtoB. the quickestwayoftravelling towns andresorts.It’susually artery servesalltheRiviera’s and intotheVar.Thisautoroute Menton, pastNiceandCannes from theItalianbordernear The A8runsalongthecoastline Orientation By Car INSIDER TIP It’s fun for toddlers to teens, but It’s funfortoddlerstoteens,but loves theparty-blowercarhorns. and thetrainstation.Mydaughter Magenta, PromenadedesAnglais as there’snowheretostoreit. not sogoodifyouhaveabuggy ( central NiceisbyCyclopolitain An eco-friendlywayoftouring taxis atCoursSaleya,Place Saturday, you’llfindthesecycle- politain.com). FromTuesdayto b If you’reinlessofahurry,

04 93817615,www.cyclo Seep. 37.

11/1/10 2:06 PM What to See & Do

Cannes

Mandelieu), Antibes and Nice; have city-centre locations in see www.ter-sncf.com (the site is Antibes, Cannes and Monaco. in French, but it’s fairly easy to Sixt serves Cap D’Ail and find train timetables). Villeneuve-Loubet. Bus services run from Nice Airport eastwards to Monaco (return journey for 28.50€ takes WHAT TO SEE & DO 45 minutes each way), Menton and Roquebrune–Cap-Martin Children’s Top 10 and westwards to Saint-Laurent- Attractions du-Var, Cagnes-sur-Mer, Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, Golfe- 1 Smelling the flowers in Juan and Cannes (see www.nice. Nice’s Cours Saleya (p. 64). aeroport.fr). Local tourist offices 2 Learning can provide details of other local to sail at the Yacht bus services, taxis and bike-hire Club d’Antibes (p. 76). firms. 3 Getting lost in the labyrinth For those looking to rent a at Villeneuve-Loubet (p. 63). car, Avis (www.avis.com), Bud- 4 Listening get (www.budget.fr), Europcar to jazz at festivals (www.europcar.fr), Hertz (www. in Cimiez and Juan-les-Pins hertz.com) and National Citer (p. 62). (www.citer.fr) can be found 5 Skating on the rooftop at beside the train station in Nice. Monaco’s Ni Box (p. 72). Avis, Europcar and Hertz also 59

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60 3 Monaco & the French Riviera graphic Museum(p. 73). horses atMonaco’sOceano- Antibes (p. 77). Comic StripsCaféinVieux (p. 75). dive nearVillefranche-sur-Mer 0 9 8 7 6 in Cimiez(p. 75). ing goatsattheChagallMuseum Iron Mask’sprisoncellonthe Île Ste.Marguerite(p. 69).

Watching Exploring Discovering Reading Pondering Hôpital Saint-Roch,5ruePierreDévoluy. L’Archet, 151routedeSaint-AntoineGinestière,andforadultsat 03 33 on arotabasis:checkatPrincessGracehospital.InNice,there’s three alongBoulevarddesMoulinsalone.After-hourspharmaciesare 24-hour pharmacyat7rueMasséna. Nice, you’llfind des PêcheursnearMonacoVilleandinMétropoleshoppingcentre.In open tothegeneralpublic.Thereare Lloyds TSBappearinMonaco,buttheseareprivatebanksandsonot Shopping: Post Offices: Pharmacies: Internet Cafés: www.chpg.mc Hospitals: Banks: aux Fleurs. 3 placeduCampanin.InNice,headto2rueLouisGassinnearMarché Scala, 1avenueHenriDunant;PlacedelaMairieintheOldTown;and Nice, AuVieuxCyber( Alphonse Karr. Saturday afternoonfrom4to8pm. Rossetti, isopenMondaytoFriday11am3pmand48pm InMonaco:familiarnamessuchasBarclays,HSBCand ) runsNice’s24-houremergencyservicesforkidsatHôpital aboutAstérixatthe stripeddolphins theManin overviolin-play- InMonaco:PrincesseGracehospital( Seep. 77and,formarkets,p. 79. knobblysea- Fast Facts:Monaco&Nice ) runsa24-houremergencyservice,whileCHU( HSBC ChemistsarelocatedallovercentralMonaco,with PostofficesinMonacoarelocatedatPalaisdela MosthotelsinMonacohaveWi-Fihotspots.InVieux at35boulevardGambettaandBarclays2rue b

04 93531386 45, www.montecarlofestival.mc Entertainment Child-friendly Events& lions. Thecheapest seatsfor was entrancedbytheblacksea nent BigTop.MysonCharlie clown’) inFontvieille’sperma- the covetedClownd’Or(‘golden circus performerscompetefor in thebusiness,andtroupesof circus festivalattractsbignames this internationallyacclaimed From trapezeartiststoclowns, des Ligures,Monaco, Chapiteau deFontvieille,5avenue Cirque deMonte-Carlo Festival Internationaldu bureaux dechanges , www.auvieuxcyber.fr b

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★★ , 11/1/10 2:06 PM families are the gradins (upper a Bataille des Fleurs (Flower Bat- What to See & Do circle benches); half-price fau- tle) parading down the Prome- teuils (stalls) seats for children nade des Anglais. Dating back under 12 are available for shows to the 13th century, the Nice during the second week. During Carnaval is a family-friendly cel- the day, you can visit the animal ebration with the emphasis on pens. fairytale creations rather than Jan. Adm from 25€, children under drunken debauchery. If you 12 10€. Credit AE, MC, V. haven’t booked in advance, you can buy tickets from temporary Nice Carnival ★ ticket booths (around place Nice, b 08 92 70 74 07, www.nice Masséna and promenade des carnaval.com Anglais) 2 hours before each event. This 2-week extravaganza of Feb–Mar. Adm 10€–25€ (depending flower parades, pop concerts and on day), children 6–12 5€–10€, chil- fireworks sees Spitting Image- dren under 6 free on parent’s knee. style papier-mâché characters Credit MC, V. dancing through the crowds and

English-language Cinemas

If you have older children, go to see a Hollywood blockbuster in English at Monaco’s Open Air Cinema (b 377 93 25 86 80, www. cinemasporting.com), which runs from July to August. With the cinema screen splashed up against the rock, it’s a memorable way to spend an evening on the Côte d’Azur. Films start at about 9:30pm (depending on when it gets dark). For other English-language films, look for the ‘VO’ (version originale) symbol. For current listings for the following cinemas, go to www. angloinfo.com or see their websites. Cinéma Cannet Toiles, 1 rue Victorien Sardou, Le Cannet b 04 93 69 51 66. Cinéma Espace Centre, 5 avenue de Verdun, Cagnes-sur-Mer, b 08 92 89 28 92. Cinéma Rialto, 4 rue de Rivoli, Nice, b 04 93 88 08 41/08 92 68 00 41. Cinéma Sporting, Le Sporting, place du Casino, Monaco, b 08 92 68 00 72, www.cinemasporting.com. Cinémathèque de Nice, Acropolis, 3 esplanade Kennedy, Nice, b 04 92 04 06 66, www.cinematheque-nice.com.. Le Casino, 6 avenue du 24 Août, Antibes, b 04 93 34 04 37/08 92 68 70 12. Les Arcades, 77 Avenue Félix Faure, Cannes, b 04 93 39 00 98/04 93 39 10 00. Mercury, 16 place Garibaldi, Nice, b 04 93 55 37 81/08 92 68 81 06. 61

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62 3 Monaco & the French Riviera festival.fr 22/08 92392192,www.nicejazz citron.com 76/04 92417695,www.fetedu jazz andsoulgreats. 12 9€–11€.CreditMC,V. July. AdmFrom29€,childrenunder jazzajuan.fr you’re afan, famed foritsJulyjazzfestivals; if TheRivieraCoastlineis FNAC andCarrefour. Advance ticketsareonsaleat BB KingandTracyChapman. ups haveincludedKeziahJones, performances. Recentstellarline- concert orgrabasnackduring free towanderfromconcert atre andgardens.Spectatorsare the beautifulCimiezamphithe- in threestages,scatteredaround marks outthisweek-longfestival, A relaxed,family-friendlyvibe du Monastère,Nice, Arènes etJardinsdeCimiez,Avenue Nice JazzFestival free. CreditMC,V. 8–14 6.50€–13€,childrenunder8 Feb andMar.Adm9€–17€,children in peakcondition. the festival,whenfruitisstill visit istowardsthebeginningof ferent theme.Thebesttimeto Menton. Eachyearfollowsadif- of ediblefloatsthroughcentral and watchtheSundayprocessions can explorethehuge,zestydesigns bration, duringwhichyoungsters Biovès inthis2-weekcitruscele- are pileduparoundtheJardin Thousands oflemonsandoranges ist office),Menton, Jardin Biovès(oppositeMentontour- Fête duCitron ) inJulyalsoattracts Jazz àJuan

★ b 04 924176 b 08 926836

★★★ ( www. public, sandybeachesontheRiv- fun. Juan-les-Pinshasthebest the epitomeoffamily-friendly a website,thesetworesortsare Interchangeable enoughtoshare antibes-juanlespins.com Juan-les-Pins touristofficewww. juanlespins.com Antibes touristoffice:www.antibes Antibes &Juan-les-Pins Cities, Towns&Resorts July andAug.AdmFree. rant orcaféwhileyouwait. relax ataneighbouringrestau- on whetherit’sdarkenough; elastic 9:30pmstart,depending free forspectators.There’san Fireworks Festival,completely spectacle oftheInternational Hercule arelitupwiththeflashy Croisette andMonaco’sPort Every summer,Cannes’sLa www.visitmonaco.com pyrotechnique-cannes.com and Hercule, Monaco,www.festival- La Croisette,CannesandPort ★★ Festival d’ArtPyrotechnique La PinèdeGouldduring you’ll hearbluesintheairaround ald. Ifyoucomeinmid-July, Cole PorterandF.ScottFitzger- attracting guestsasillustrious as stayed openallyearround, the HôtelduCapEden-Roc) the GrandHôtelduCap(now summertime playgroundwhen resorts becametheRiviera’sfirst taurants. In1923,thetwin who hangoutinitsbarsandres- for theyoungyachtingcrowd having beenhometoPicassoand iera, whileAntibesisfamousfor Jazz à Jazz à

★★★ 11/1/10 2:06 PM

What to See & Do Juan (p. 62). The numerous Cannes ★★ theme parks on your doorstep Tourist office: b 04 93 39 24 53, include Europe’s largest marine www.cannes-on-line.com park, Marineland (p. 70). With its film festival and its Cagnes-sur-Mer & Belle Epoque architecture, Villeneuve-Loubet Cannes is synonymous with old- Cagnes-sur-Mer tourist office: b 04 style glamour. International 93 20 61 64, www.cagnes-tourisme. tourism started here back in com 1834, when British Lord Chan- Villeneuve-Loubet tourist office: b 04 cellor Lord Brougham moved to 92 02 66 16, www.ot-villeneuve the then fishing village to enjoy loubet.org the winter sunshine. The British The stretch of cheap, seaside aristocracy followed, as did resorts around Cagnes-sur-Mer palm-lined avenues, grand hotels and Villeneuve-Loubet has been and film stars’ handprints, dubbed Concrete-on-Sea by though the old town, Le Anglophone locals. Suquet, perched on its hill, This is not helped by the fact remains a world apart, with bou- that the train line runs next to gainvillea-clad houses and wind- the sea at this point, so you have ing lanes. to find a rail-track crossing point While Cannes certainly has its every time you want to paddle. fair share of golden-tanned oldies, While Cagnes-sur-Mer’s star there’s a crowd of beautiful attraction is the Renoir Museum, young things who hang out in Villeneuve-Loubet’s Marina Baie the pedestrianised streets around des Anges stands out, with land- Rue Batéguier, while families mark apartments that curve back have fun on its private sandy and forth like white, crested beaches with their children’s play waves. Moreover, Villeneuve- areas and on the mini-fairground Loubet is one of only 32 destina- rides and remote-control mini- tions in the country to have been motorboats near the Palais des awarded the official ‘Station Kid’ Festivals. And when you want to designation, meaning it’s particu- get away from it all, the beautiful larly family-friendly. This reason- Îles des Lérins are a 15-minute ably priced resort has some of the boat-trip away (p. 67). most family-friendly campsites Monaco ★ on the Riviera (p. 87), while Tourist office: b 377 92 16 61 16, Labyrinthe de L’Aventure theme www.visitmonaco.com park and Canyon Forest rock and tree-climbing adventures are on Monaco is the kind of toytown your doorstep. Inland, you’ll find utopia where you won’t find lit- the pretty, historic village from ter or graffiti; instead, there are which the resort grew, complete Charles Garnier facades, shop- with 12th-century castle. ping arcades selling authentic Renoirs, ubiquitous CCTV 63

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Av. Beau Séjou r What to See & Do Saint-Jean–Cap-Ferrat

The jutting peninsula of Saint-Jean–Cap-Ferrat is the part of the Riviera that most closely lives up to your imagination. This secluded paradise is a stamping ground for the likes of award-winning architect Lord (Norman) Foster and Microsoft billionaire Paul Allen, who live in lavish villas behind high stone walls. Yet Saint-Jean port retains an earthy charm, with its line of simple restaurants bordering the marina. Kids will also enjoy treasure hunts at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (p. 74).

As well as inhaling the sea Villefranche-sur-Mer & Beau- spray as you wander along the lieu-sur-Mer ★★★ Promenade des Anglais and Villefranche-sur-Mer tourist office: browsing the blooms in the Jardin François Binon, b 04 93 01 73 world-famous flower market in 68, www.villefranche-sur-mer.com Cours Saleya, you can see the Beaulieu-sur-Mer tourist office: carousel horses at the Hôtel otbeaulieu.free.fr Negresco and admire the bur- These seaside resorts east of Nice gundy-coloured houses around are more serene, more comely the Vieux Port. Best of all, there and more expensive than those are many parks, from the botani- to the west of the city. Dating cal Parc Phoenix (b 04 92 29 77 back to Roman times, Ville- 00) at the airport end of the franche-sur-Mer is a picturesque Promenade des Anglais, with its feast of trompe l’oeil-painted, musical fountains, duck pond apricot houses that curve around and indoor dome with butter- its deep, cobblestoned port. Its flies and reptiles, to the Parc du stately neighbour, Beaulieu-sur- Château (p. 82), with waterfall Mer, is home to plush hotels: and play areas. The city also the exclusive La Réserve, brims with artistic talent—most founded by New York Herald notably, the Impressionists and owner Gordon Bennett, and the post-Impressionists at the Beaux family-friendly Royal Riviera Arts museum and the contem- (p. 85). porary stars at the MAMAC There are fewer family-focused modern art museum. activities in these resorts than in You should avoid Nice’s seed- many others, but children can ier side around the train station, have a go at making pottery at and the outer suburbs with the Greek Villa Kérylos (p. 71) and exception of ravishing Cimiez, watch dolphins and whales off where Matisse used to live, and the Villefranche-sur-Mer coast- exclusive Mont Boron, where line (p. 75). Elton John now resides.

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66 3 Monaco & the French Riviera MONACO To Nice Exotique MONEGHETTI INSIDER TIP Louis II Louis II Voitures Anciennes Voitures Anciennes FONTVIEILLE Jardin Stade Stade along the sur-Mer, maketimeforastroll If you’restayinginBeaulieu- rice Rouvier pushing buggies. a beautiful routeforparents Niven’s sugar-pinkpalace.It’s path you’llfind thelateDavid port. Halfway alongthiscoastal Riviera hoteltoSaint-Jean 0 0 Antoinette Princesse Collection des Collection des 12 Train Station Post Office Information Church Parc A v . P. 14 D ou mer Bd. du Place du Promenade Mau- Fontvieille Fontvieille Canton B 200 m Espace Espace d . d Ja e B rd St.-Nicolas St.-Nicolas i 13 e n- fromtheRoyal l E Appartements Appartements g x i ot FRANCE qu iq Les Grands Les Grands e u Fontvielle Fontvielle Bd. Rainier-III

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er te Basse Corniche Place du Casino Novotel Monte-Carlo7 Monte-Carlo BeachHotel4 Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel3 Hôtel Capitole1 Accommodation Stars ‘N’Bars 8 Restaurant Castelroc 11 La NoteBleue6 Dining &Sculpture Park 13 Roseraie PrincesseGrace Antoinette12 Parc Princesse deMonaco10 Musée Oceanographique Le Petit Montmartre 2 Héli AirMonaco14 Galerie duMétropole 5 Chocolaterie deMonaco9 Attractions Bd. des ★ 2 St.-Charles St.-Charles MÉDITERRANÉE MÉDITERRANÉE 6 Casino Casino MONTE 1 CARLO 5 MER MER Auditorium Auditorium Rainier III Rainier III M ou Plage de Larvotto li ns B A d. La v. Prin rvot c to 4 3 11/1/10 2:06 PM esse -G rac e NICE What to See & Do

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the cliffs and past Roquebrune hotel). Île Saint-Honorat, b 04 92 99 and La Turbie. As you swerve 54 00, www.abbayedelerins.com around the bends of the Grande You can enjoy a new perspective Corniche, you’ll perhaps feel a on the Cannes coastline from the Hitchcockian shudder to learn four gorgeous Îles des Lérins out that Grace Kelly died here in in the Med, only two of which 1982, on the same road that she are inhabited and can be visited: zoomed along with Cary Grant in Île Ste. Marguerite and Île Saint- the 1955 film To Catch a Thief. Honorat. Despite these islands’ Îles des Lérins ★★★ proximity to each other, island Off Cannes (departures from quai politics decrees that no boat trips Laubeuf opposite 1835 White Palm visit both, so you have to choose. 67

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68 3 Monaco & the French Riviera the Man intheIronMask?’,p. prison cell(see‘WhoWasThe ing TheManintheIronMask’s ardo DiCapriofansloveexplor- History, literatureand/orLeon- kiosks if you don’t fancy bringing kiosks ifyoudon’tfancybringing are severalrestaurants/snack Batéguier lake),althoughthere leafy picnicspot(perhapsnear delving furtherinlandtofind a ble withabuggy,soit’sworth Muchoftheisland isaccessi- restored royalfort. objects. There’salsoapartly unexceptional archeological Museum oftheSea,withits the mainreasonforvisiting

sion: adults12€;childrenupto12years5€. Mer, withtwoswimmingpools,ababypoolandlifeguard.Admis- com Cannes: Cannes: Cagnes-sur-Mer: ers worthadetourarethepretty,sandy natural sandBlueFlagstretchesat recliners andchildren’splayareas.Thebest have lostinemptiness,theygainedrestaurants,striped are alwayschock-a-blockwithsunworshippers.Yetwhatthey Victims oftheirownsuccess,beachesalongtheRiviera area andsummerchildren’sclublifeguard.Thissandybeach com rarely crowded a footpathfromthevillageofCap-Ferrat,andsheltered best are: you payfortheprivilege.Mostareopen9amto6:30pm.Among Someprivatebeacheshave excellentfamily-friendlyfacilities,but www.la-gougouline.com (p. 83), plusasandybeachwithchildren’splayareaandsummer (p. 83), watersports, swimminglessonsandaqua-gym. Île Ste.Marguerite ) onCannes’sBoulevarddeLaCroisette,withachildren’splay ) onBoulevarddelaCroisetteinCannes,hasarestaurant VegalunaBeach PlageRoyale Plage deBaiedesFourmis PlageLaGougouline The BestBeaches , which is , whichis ) onBoulevarddelaPlageinCagnes-sur- 69) on 69) on ( b

04 93382200 ( b

04 93436705 Antibes–Juan-les-Pins Lérins monks, OwnedbytheAbbayede paddling inthesea. your ownfood.Youcanalsogo that, unlike its sister island, its that, unlikeits sister island,its older children.Note,however, to comewitheitherababyor toddlers, butit’sapeacefulplace and vineyardshaslesstoattract This verdanthavenofveneration wines andalethalgreenliqueur. The monksproducereputed commands arockypromontory. the ancientfortifiedmonastery 19th-century) monastery,while leads tothe‘modern’(actually Anagapanthus-linedwalkway beautiful. is smallerandarguablymore Plage dePassable public inBeaulieu-sur-Mer. , ( www.plageroyale. b ,

beachesarethe www.vegaluna. 04 93310872, Île Saint-Honorat , down ; oth-

11/1/10 2:06 PM What to See & Do

also offers watersports, swimming lessons and a free aqua-gym. Admission from 21€ to 25€ from July to mid-September; and 15€ from April to June and mid-September to October. Juan-les-Pins: Les Pêcheurs (b 04 92 93 13 30, www. lespecheurs-lecap.com) on Boulevard Maréchal Juin, a sandy beach with recliners, a swimwear shop and a great restaurant (p. 82). Menton La Dolce Vita (b 04 93 35 44 50, www.plageladolce vita.com) on Promenade de la Mer in Menton, boasting a restaurant, watersports and an indoor children’s play area showing DVDs. Monaco: La Note Bleue (b 377 93 50 05 02, www.lanotebleue. mc) along Monaco’s Plage du Larvotto, with recliners, a children’s play area, table football and table tennis. This sandy beach also has an excellent restaurant (p. 84). In summer, there are bouncy castles. Two minutes away along Larvotto Beach, you’ll find also find a kids’ playground and trampolining. Admission from 28€–32€ for 2 people. Nice: Neptune Beach (b 04 93 87 16 60, www.neptuneplage. com), opposite the Hôtel Negresco on the Promenade des Anglais, a pebble beach with pedalos, a seawater pool for children and a supervised youngsters’ play area (on a small sandy section). Admis- sion 18€.

coastline is made up of rocks 7am–7pm June–Sept; daily 7am–6pm rather than sandy stretches. There Oct and May, 7am–5pm Nov–Feb, are steep steps up from the land- Ticket 11.50€, children 5–10 6€. Credit MC, V. ing stage, but the rest of the island b is easily accessible with a buggy. Planaria (for Île Saint-Honorat), 04 92 98 71 38, www.cannes-iles There’s one self-service res- delerins.com, May–Sept Mon–Sat taurant selling cold snacks. 8:30am–5:30pm, Sun 7:30am– Trans Côte d’Azur (for Île Sainte- 5:30pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 8:30am– Marguerite), b 04 92 98 71 30, 4:30pm, Sun 7:30am–4:30pm. Ticket www.trans-cote-azur.com, daily 12€, children 5–10 6€. Credit MC, V.

FUN FACT Who Was The Man in the Iron Mask? Eminent scholars and writers from Alexandre Dumas and Voltaire to Victor Hugo have pondered over ‘the prisoner whose name no-one knows, whose forehead no-one has seen, a living mystery, shadow, enigma, problem’ (Victor Hugo). More than 60 names have been put forward, from Louis XIV’s twin brother to playwright Molière, but the Iron Mask’s identity remains unknown.

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70 3 Monaco & the French Riviera This isnotthe placetoexplore not-to-be-missed familyday out. Europe’s largestmarinepark is a b 306 avenueMozart,offRN7,Antibes, Marineland DC, MC,V.Amenities children 3–12from10€.CreditAE, Sept andschoolholidays.Adm13€, Wed, SatandSun10am–6pmFeb– Open Daily10am–7pmApr–Aug, land (thispage). neighbouring themeparkMarine- day-trip combinationticketswith prepared toqueue.Youcanbuy a face-paintingparlour,butbe rides, there’sapuppettheatreand goats tonotice.Aswellaspony rabbits andhorsesorfeedingthe will probablybetoobusygazingat scruffy roundtheedges,butyours dren, thisadventurefarmisabit Ideal fortoddlersandsmallchil- b 306 avenueMozart,offRN7,Antibes, West La PetiteFermeduFar Aquaria &AnimalParks Neptune Beach,Nice 08 92300606,www.marineland.fr 08 92300606,www.marineland.fr

ALLAGES

★★★

ALL AGES

accompanied wadeintothedol- ing over1.2mcangoonan home. Daringyoungstersmeasur- new 3.5€millionrefrigerated latest arrivals:twopolarbearsina shows, youcanadmirethepark’s whale, sealionanddolphin Afteryou’vewatchedthe ner formostchildren. through hoopsisasure-firewin- somersaulting throughtheairor cle ofdolphinsandsealions ment, buttheimpressivespecta- animals intheirnaturalenviron- Amenities from 28€.CreditAE,DC,MC,V. holidays. Adm36€,children3–12 10am–6pm mid-Feb–Marandschool daily 10am–7pmApr–Sept, Open Daily10am–11pmJuly–Aug, empire ofattractions(p. 76). park issurroundedbyitsmini- family forawholedayoutasthe there’s plentytoentertainthe to visitMarineland,although You’llneedatleasthalfaday front rowaresprayedwithwater. for thewhaleshowasthoseon (an extra69€).BringdryT-shirts phin tanktomeetthedolphins

11/1/10 2:06 PM Natural Reserves, Parks November. If you ask nicely, the What to See & Do & Gardens gardeners with let you take home some of the discarded Menton’s Gardens blooms that they are collecting ★★★ ALL AGES in baskets. You can’t take food Val Rahmeh, Avenue Saint-Jacques, into the rose garden; picnickers b 04 93 35 86 72; Serre de la should head for the landscaped Madone, Route de Gorbio, b 04 93 57 73 90/04 92 10 33 66; Jardin du sculpture park that encircles it. Palais Carnolès, Avenue de la Open Daily 9am–7pm Apr–Oct, daily Madone, b 04 93 35 49 71. 9am–6pm Nov–Mar. Adm Free.

Menton is a true garden-lover’s INSIDER TIP paradise. Val Rahmeh is a Another family-friendly park in botanical garden with a beautiful Monaco is Parc Princesse lotus pond, specialising in rare, Antoinette, 54 bis boulevard du exotic species, and also has a Jardin Exotique. As well as a grassy, buggy-friendly terrace children’s playground and a ‘mini where you can stroll. Formule 1’ circuit, there’s a small Designed by Englishman farm with goats, sheep and rabbits that my kids love. This park Lawrence Johnston in the 1920s, is open all day 8:30am to 6pm. Serre de la Madone is an impressive garden filled with nooks and crannies that are fun Historic Buildings & to explore, although those with Monuments young children will find all the Villa Grecque Kérylos steps tricky. ★ ALL AGES Children enjoy spotting both the kumquats and the contem- Impasse Gustave Eiffel, Beaulieu- sur-Mer, b 04 93 01 01 44, www. Jardin du porary sculptures at villa-kerylos.com Palais Carnolès. This citrus garden on Avenue de la Madone Born of the imaginative collabo- has wide walkways and plenty of ration between two 20th-century park benches. Hellenists, this modern interpre- tation of an ancient Greek villa Roseraie Princesse Grace & is a feast of mosaic-tiled walls, Sculpture Park marble columns and even an ★ VALUE ALL AGES extravagant sunken bath. Fontvieille, Monaco, b 377 98 98 22 Expert potter Jean-Gabriel 77, access via Avenue des Guelfes/ runs pottery workshops for chil- Avenue des Papalins. dren from 3 up every afternoon This circular rose garden sur- during school holidays, and rounded by shady park benches, every weekend the rest of the a duck pond, children’s play area year; ask ahead and he’ll bring and carousel is filled with the one of his English-speaking col- scent of 5,500 immaculately leagues to translate. kept rose bushes from April to 71

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72 3 Monaco & the French Riviera rainy day: has threeoutletsontheRivierathataregreatforkeepingkidsamuseda billiards tablesandarestaurant. 47 0225 musee-matisse-nice.org Nice, 164 avenuedesArènesdeCimiez, ★★ Musée Matisse Top Museums Credit AE,MC,V.Amenities 7–17 6:30€,childrenunder7free. mid-Nov–Dec. Adm8.50€,children Sat andSunmid-Jan–mid-Feb Aug, 2–6pmMon–Friand10am–6pm holidays, daily10am–7pmJulyand June andSept–mid-Novschool Open Daily10am–6pmmid-Feb– casino. park nearthetownhallorby allowed insidethevilla.Youcan Notethatbuggiesaren’t Nice Bowling Cannes Bowling 92 917030 Antibes Bowling Rond-point duPortier, 2010 sawthemuch-anticipatedopeningofNiBox(35boulevardLouisII, for youngkids.Therearealsovideogames,billiardstableandarestaurant. Meanwhile,RivieraLoisirsBowling( discotheque and(seeminglyself-contradictory)‘healthy’McDonalds. bumpers forkids),aswellayear-roundrooftopskatingrink,videogames, trendy entertainmentcomplexcomescompletewithbowlingalley(withoptional INSIDER TIP Grecque Kérylos A goodpicnicspotaftertheVilla de Verdun and parkbenches. with itschildren’splayground TIP

VALUE b 04 93534053,www. , has16lanes,billiardstableandarestaurant. TheBestLocalBowling , has 22 lanes, some equipped with inflatable tubes to make it easier , has22lanes,someequippedwithinflatabletubestomakeiteasier

ALLAGES (nexttothecasino), , 5esplanadeKennedy,Nice,

, 575PremièreAvenue,QuartierNova-Antipolis,Antibes,

is the , 189boulevardFrancisTonner,Cannes-La-Bocca, b Square

377 979877 Museum town 2-hectare ruinsofRoman where youcandiscoverthe ity, withmotifsofdancers, almost childlikeintheirsimplic- wildly colourfulgouaches, stormy TempêteàNice,andthe Nice itself,whichincludethe favourites arethoseinspiredby member ofthefamily.My should appealtojustaboutevery iez, wherehisvibrantpaintings this burgundy-redvillainCim- (1869–1954) livedanddiedat The greatartistHenriMatisse next doortothe You mayalsowanttonip museum hasliftstoallfloors. Roman amphitheatre.The garden withitsremainsofa ture, you’refreetoexplorethe hare. Aftertakinginsomecul- sculpture ofajaguardevouring tend tobefascinatedbythe minded youngsters,meanwhile, clowns, horsesandmore.Gory- , www.rivieraloisirsbowling.com www.nibox.mc b

Cemenelum 04 93553311 ( b

04 93815957 Archaeological ) inMonaco.This . Ithasthe , has24lanes, ), b

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11/1/10 2:06 PM 04 04 )

same opening hours as the younger ones by asking them to What to See & Do Matisse Museum. seek out some of the weird and Open Mon and Wed–Sun 10am–6pm wonderful objects that appear in exc. some public holidays. Adm free. the works. Credit MC, V (minimum 8€). Ameni- Meanwhile, breastfeeding ties mums can find comfy seats in the dimly lit cinema room complete Musée National Message with stained-glass windows and Biblique Marc Chagall painted grand piano. There’s also ★★★ VALUE ALL AGES a pretty garden where you’ll find 36 avenue Docteur Ménard, Nice, shady benches among the aga- b 04 93 53 87 20/04 93 53 87 31, panthus and olive trees, as well as www.musee-chagall.fr a café serving sandwiches, salads From violin-playing goats to and ice creams. floating lovers, monsters to fan- Open Mon and Wed–Sun 10am–6pm tastical human–animal hybrid July–Sept, 10am–5pm Oct–June, figures, and horseback acrobats exc. some public holidays. Adm 7.50€, children under 20 free (free to to roosters, Russian-born Cha- all 1st Sun of month). Credit MC, V. gall’s brightly coloured paintings Amenities speak to all ages and are a great way to get younger children Musée Oceanographique de interested in art. Although the Monaco ★★★ ALL AGES museum doesn’t lay on anything special for children, older ones Avenue Saint-Martin, Monaco-Ville, b 377 93 15 36 00, www.oceano.mc will enjoy the English-language video explaining Chagall’s work, Monaco’s Oceanographic while you might like to devise a Museum has just celebrated its kind of artistic treasure hunt for 100th anniversary. The highlight

Musée Matisse

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74 3 Monaco & the French Riviera Ronin wasfilmedinthestreetsaround Nice’sVieuxPort. The heart-poundingcarchase intheRobertDeNiroclassicthriller harpoons. cal itemssuchaswhalebone his fouryachtsplusethnographi- research tripshemadeaboard Prince AlbertIduringthe28 comprise theobjectsamassedby suited toolderchildren:they Upstairscollectionsaremore when itbashesitsclawstogether. because ofthenoiseitmakes the cigaledelamer(seacicada) lobster isknowninFrenchas instance, orthatthelocalflat species canchangesex,for museum’s doorstep:thatsome about thesealifeliterallyon tion. Hereyoucanlearnall haps, istheMediterraneansec- tank, butmostfascinating,per- sense ofmenaceintheshark entertained forhours).There’sa latter keepmybabysonCharlie sea bassandfloatyseahorses(the diaphanous moonjellies,circling ened sub-aquaticworldof the basementaquarium,adark- of thisunmissablecollectionis A triptoSaint-Jean–Cap-Ferrat’sVillaEphrussideRothschild ing snacksandchildren’smeals. with thehelpofitsaudio-guidesforolderchildren.Thereisacoffeeshopserv- able inEnglish,andwithagiftforchildrenwhocansolvetheriddle)orexplore themed gardens,takepartinthetreasurehuntsforchildrenfrom7to12(avail- While yousoakintheextraordinaryviews,yourchildrencanexploreitsnine splendour oftheRiviera’sGoldenAge,inlate19thandearly20thcenturies. Epoque 01 3309, FUN FACT TIP pink palazzoanditsimmaculategardenswilltransportyoubacktothe MakeTimefor.

www.villa-ephrussi.com Ronin ), ourfavouriteRivierapalace.ThisBelle a children’splayarea. Sept, 10am–6pmOct–Mar.Adm13€, Aug, 9:30am–7pmApr–Juneand Open Daily9:30am–7:30pmJulyand pretty steam, themuseumisnextto those whoneedtoblowoffsome up totherestaurant.Handilyfor entrance, downtotheloosand unfriendly stepsatthemuseum has lifts,therearelotsofbuggy- Note that,althoughthemuseum lent viewsandchildren’smenu. floor restaurant,withitsexcel- Afterwards,headforthe top- skeleton. century divingsuitorthewhale Don’tmissthecomical18th- free. CreditMC,V.Amenities children 4–176.50€,under4 INSIDER TIP d’Antibes with and starfisharoundtheCap treasures suchasseaurchins Families candiscoverunderwater com). Thisglass-bottomedboat 93 270211,www.visiobulle. Jardin Saint-Martin Visiobulle ( ( b b , with

04 04 93

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What to See & Do The Côte d’Azur on Canvas

Besides the Marc Chagall museum, other world-class art collections on the Cote d’Azur include MAMAC, a contemporary art museum on the Promenade des Arts, Nice (b 04 97 13 42 01, www.mamac-nice. org), with lots of pop art and intriguing installations; Renoir’s former home, Musée Renoir, 19 chemin des Collettes, Cagnes-sur-Mer (b 04 93 20 61 07) and Musée des Beaux-Arts, 33 avenue des Bau- mettes, Nice (b 04 92 15 28 28, www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org), with its impressive collection of Impressionists, post-Impressionists and 20th-century artists. Two museums reflecting Picasso’s attachment to the Côte d’Azur are the Musée National Picasso, Place de la Libéra- tion, Vallauris (b 04 93 64 71 83, www.musee-picasso-vallauris.fr) and the recently renovated Musée Picasso, Château Grimaldi, Antibes (b 04 92 90 54 20).

Sightings aren’t guaranteed, departs Ponton Courbet on although in several years of busi- Juan-les-Pins’s Boulevard Guil- ness they’ve never been without laumont daily between April and at least one sighting. Alterna- September. Tickets cost 13€ for tively, you can actually go swim- adults, 6.50€ for kids aged 2–11, ming with dolphins on a daylong free for kids under 2. trip, although the 300€-perperson price tag may put you off. Child-friendly Tours The sea can be choppy so, if in doubt, take a seasickness tablet Dolphin & Whale Tour before you leave. Make sure you ★ ALL AGES phone to check on the day before ActiLoisirs, Gare Maritime, Ville- the outing, as the schedule can franche-sur-Mer, b 04 93 62 00 16/06 03 78 30 85, www.dauphin- change at the last minute accord- mediterranee.com ing to the weather (particularly the wind). You need to arrive 30 These unusual 4-hour boat-trips minutes before departure time. combine tourism with research Open 9:30am and 1:30pm midweek to give you the chance to watch departures mid-June–mid-Sept. Adm dolphins and whales in their natu- 44€, children 2–12 30€, children ral environment. The French- under 2 free. Credit MC, V. speaking guide Philippe, a researcher on whale ethology for Héli Air Monaco ★★ ALL AGES the University of the Sorbonne, Héliport de Monaco, Avenue des navigates a route past the usual Ligures, Monaco, b 377 92 05 00 50, hideouts up to 35km off the coast- www.heliairmonaco.net line. You’re most likely to see One unusual way to celebrate a striped dolphins—on a recent trip family birthday is to treat your we saw three different schools. 75

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76 3 Monaco & the French Riviera for childrenfrom4years.Thesamefirmruns and adventuresalonganaturalmazeinthegardensof12th-centurychâteau, com AE, MC,V. 60€ (fourpeopleminimum).Credit Open Daily8am–5:30pm.Admfrom provided withaspecialharness. Those withtoddlersunder2are hat thatmakesagreatsouvenir. certificate andaHéliAirMonaco dren willalsoberewardedwitha it doesn’tcomecheap,butchil- backcountry. At60€perperson, returning viathemountainous the MedtoItalianborderand (Sea andLand),whizzingover eye tourcovers‘MeretTerre’ advance. The10-minutebird’s- birthday cakeifyouaskin ilies, andwillevenprovidea baptême (baptism)flightsforfam- flight. HéliAirMonacoorganises children totheirfirsthelicopter Koaland Labyrinthe deL’Aventure Antibes Land complex ofattractions,including 70)issurroundedbyitsownlittle The Marinelandthemepark(p. bouncy castles,minigo-karting,carousels,children’splayareasandasnack ice creamparlour. bar. It’srunbythefirmbehindAntibesLandand com Expoitions, Nice, indoor, with24rides,includingsomeespeciallyforyoungerchildren. Grasse, 02 06 Other optionsare: to twoparksfrom40€foradults,31€kidsaged3–12,freeunder3. can buyaday-tripcombination(atMarineland’sticketbooths)allowingaccess slides), (next toLabyrinthedeL’Aventure),ajuniorversionforkidsfrom3years. tree-climbing adventuresforchildrenfrom8years,aswell TIP ), ontheseasideincentralMenton,isasmallthemeparkwithcrazygolf, ), oppositeMarineland,with30ridesandattractions,arestaurantan La PetiteFermeduFarWest , b TheBestLocalThemeParks www.lelabyrinthedelaventure.com (AvenuedelaMadone,Menton,

04 920288 (AvenueMozart,Antibes, www.azurpark.com , www.azur-aventures.com (2559routedeGrasse,Villeneuve-Loubet, Aquasplash ), agoodrainy-dayoptionsinceit’sall- www.yc-antibes.net ramparts, this sailing school looking Antibes’s16th-century With itsenviablelocationover- Wyllie, Antibes, Plage duPonteil,BoulevardJames d’Antibes Ecole deVoile,YachtClub Active Families INSIDER TIP (p. 70) and (p. 70) b 41 3015,www.mccc.mc)and clubs in Nadals cantrainupattennis Budding Murrays,Federersor Cannes ing thesummerholidays. week-long coursesforkidsdur- www.tennis-cannes.com), with b

), comprising 48 interactive games ), comprising48interactivegames

04 93336803 04 92100040 Canyon Forest (withwavepoolsandwater- Monte Carlo (

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AGE5&UP www.azurpark. www.azurpark. (26routede (Palaisdes ( b 04 93 b

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organises 1-week beginners’ sail- spilling out of a brightly painted, What to See & Do ing courses for children from century-old boat retrieved from 5 years (in Optimist dinghies Villefranche-sur-Mer. from 5 years, catamarans from Open Mon–Sat 10am–7pm Apr–Dec. 12 years). Credit MC, V. Amenities There are also windsurfing courses from 8 years up. Courses Chocolaterie de Monaco are popular and should be Place de la Visitation, Monaco, b 377 booked well in advance. Most 97 97 88 88, www.chocolateriede coaches speak English. monaco.com Open 1-week summer courses 9:30am–noon and 2:30–5:30pm Youngsters love the fantasy eggs Mon–Fri (mornings only for children and chocolate boxes shaped like 5–6 years). Adm from 135€. Credit rulers at this long-standing choc- Cash only. olate paradise in Monaco’s old town—and so do the royals who Shopping live in the palace round the corner, who have given it their offi- Chez Tom et Léa cial seal of approval. 9 rue de la Boucherie, Vieux Nice, b Open Mon–Sat 9:30am–6:30pm. 04 93 92 20 27 Credit MC, V. This diminutive toy and clothes shop in the crowded labyrinth of Comic Strips Café Vieux Nice has a mini-play area to 4 rue James Close, Antibes, b 04 93 keep children amused while you 34 91 40, www.comic-strips-cafe. browse the colourful childrens’ com wear, wooden toys and accessories. A fun way for children to learn Don’t miss the cuddly animals French is through comic books,

Little Tourist Trains

The cute little Petits Trains Touristiques you see trundling the streets of cities and towns all over France are a great way of seeing the sights with youngsters. Monaco’s Azur Express Tourist Train (b 377 92 05 64 38) departs from the Oceanographic Museum (p. 73) and makes a 30-minute tour, taking in the port, Monte Carlo and its palaces, the casino and more; commentary is available in English. You can pick up Nice’s Petit Train (b 06 08 55 08 30, www.trainstouristiquesdenice. com) on the Promenade des Anglais opposite Jardin Albert I; it tours the old town, the castle and the seafront, costing 9€ for adults and 4€ for kids under 9. Cannes’s Petit Train (b 04 93 38 39 18, www. cannes-petit-train.com) sets off from beside the Palais des Festivals and offers a choice of two routes or a combined ‘Grand Tour’ costing 10€ for adults, 5€ for kids aged 3–10. Again, commentary is available in English. 77

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78 3 Monaco & the French Riviera 99 6333 ( Teenfactory Enfance labels in You cansplashoutondesigner floors andantiquechandeliers. Métropole, completewithmarble ping centrenexttotheHôtel by-jowl inthisultra-poshshop- Smart children’sshopssitcheek- com www.metropoleshoppingcenter. 17 avenuedesSpélugues,Monaco, Galerie duMétropole Credit AE,MC,V. Mon–Sat 10am–7pmSept–June. Open Mon–Sat10am–8pmJuly–Aug, boxes andkaleidoscopes. on theshelvesamidstmusical ceiling andcuddlytoyshuddling mobiles vyingforspaceonthe mini-cars spillingoutthedoor, eco-friendly woodentoysand archetypal treasuretrovestocks Chock-a-block withtoys,this 18 rueNotreDame,Cannes, En sortantdel’école Credit MC,V. noon and2–7pm,Sat10am–7pm. Open Mon2–7pm,Tues–Fri10am– tions arealsoavailable. as Astérix.SomeEnglishtransla- and old,includingclassicssuch cialising inbandesdessinéesnew bookshop inOldAntibes,spe- Provence tofindthemthanthis and there’snobetterplacein youngsters upto12. 16 84 12 tots toteens,while Levi’s, OxbowandKookaïfor b ) sellstrendylabelssuchas 377 977705 78) has ), for children up to 16, and ), forchildrenupto16,and Ricriation ( b

377 93300082 ( b (

377 921609 Vilebrequin b

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★★ b ), for ), for 04 93 inédit Mer, 35 boulevardMarinoni,Beaulieu-sur- Nice Place Magenta and 4–7pm.CreditMC,V. 1pm and3–7:30pm,Sun9am–1pm 12:30pm and3–7:30pm,Sat9am– Open Mon,Tues,Thurs,Fri9am– local Provençalvillagemarket.’ squeeze lemons(bought)froma make alemontart,wefreshly cheat’, saysMesiano.‘Whenwe good products[so]youcan’t chocolates. ‘Ourclientsknow poised selectionofpastriesand hotels permeatehisperfectly of pastry-chefexperienceattop fectioner PatrickMesiano.Years been takenoverbymastercon- Lac, thesetwinpâtisserieshave Formerly knownasPâtisserie 18 rueBarla,Nice, Pâtisserie Mesiano mid-July–mid-Aug. 7:30pm, plusSun11am–7pm Open Mon–Satroughly10am– trunks forboysfrom12. multi-coloured swimming Graine deMaman Alphonse Karrishometo Magenta. Peppertree-linedRue streets offpedestrianisedPlace Nice areclusteredinthepretty My favouritechildren’sshopsin clothes fortots toteensat the corner,you’llfindchickids’ for babiesandtoddlers.Around clothes, jewelleryandaccessories wow youwithstunningdesigner mums BrigitteandLindawill pregnant mumsandto 56 ) specializinginclothesfor b ( 04 93013585 b

04 93887101

b ★ 04 93553774; ( b

★★ 04 938828 ), where bébé Annie 11/1/10 2:06 PM Family-Friendly Dining TIP The Best Local Markets Covered food and flower market: Forville market, Cannes, Tues–Sun mornings. Fish market: Place Saint-François, Nice, Tues–Sun mornings. Flower, fruit and vegetable market: Cours Saleya, Nice, Tues–Sun mornings. Food and flower market: Jardin Binon, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Sat morning. Food and flower market: Gare Routière and port, Menton, every morning. Food and flower market: Quartier Carnolès, Roquebrune–Cap-Martin, every morning. Fruit and vegetable market: Place d’Armes, Monaco, every morning. Organic food market: Villeneuve-Loubet village, Wed and Sat mornings. Provençal market: Place Massena, Antibes, Tues–Sun mornings.

Framboise (b 04 93 87 98 97) on up to 18 years. You can pick up Rue Longchamp, at Jacadi a free gift at Petit Bateau (no. (b 04 93 16 59 00) and IKKS (b 04 50, b 04 93 38 05 82, www.petit 93 87 42 01) on Rue de la Liberté, bateau.fr), which has clothes for and at Petit Bateau (b 04 93 83 boys up to 18 years and girls up 05 00) on Rue Masséna. to 12. Toys and board games for Open Mon–Sat roughly 10am–7pm, all ages can be found at Miny with break for lunch (usually 12:30– Jouets (no. 28, b 04 93 39 07 86). 2:30pm). Credit MC, V. Open Mon–Sat roughly 10am–7pm, Rue d’Antibes ★★ with break for lunch (usually 12:30– 2:30pm). Credit MC, V. Cannes Parallel to Boulevard de la Croi- sette, Cannes’s smartest shop- FAMILY-FRIENDLY ping street has all the upmarket DINING children’s brands loved by the French bourgeoisie. Down the Nice & Around far end, Tartine et Chocolat (no. 131, b 04 93 68 18 09, www. The narrow streets of Vieux tartine-et-chocolat.fr) and Jacadi Nice are packed with snack bars (no. 121, b 04 93 99 37 73, www. selling pan bagnat (tuna Niçoise jacadi.fr) have the prettiest salad in a bap), crêpes and pasta, clothes and nursery accessories. and restaurants offering local In the middle, you’ll find trendy cuisine. As tourists flock to Nissa Socca clothes shops: Catimini (no. (p. 81) for a taste 56–66, b 04 93 68 67 38, www. of socca (6€), local families enjoy Lu Fran Calin catimini.com), catering for boys Niçoise cuisine at b up to 14 and girls up to 16, and ( 04 93 80 81 81), newly relo- IKKS Junior (no. 77, b 04 93 68 cated to Place Halle aux Herbes, 02 39) for boys up to 14 and girls where the outdoor terrace has plenty of room for buggies. 79

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80 3 Monaco & the French Riviera Félix Faure. posh shoppingstreetAvenue at Belgian-style grab opensandwichesandpastries celebrated CoursSaleya,youcan beignets (fritters)from7€.Inthe rant branch offamily-friendlyrestau- rue Delille, priced Tex-Mex cuisineatreasonably opened asecondvenue. Niçoise restaurant italien.com rat, Nouveau Port,Saint-Jean–Cap-Fer- Italien La PizzeriaduGourmet www.fritescity.com zas at lunch onfishandwood-firedpiz- or spotfilm-starphotosasyou ( 75 42 77 com out Préfecture, inexpensivelocalhang- Around thecornerinRuedela fr Nice arefoundat the besthamburgerandchipsin children’s menus(7.50€),while INSIDER TIP b MODERATE ) on Rue Pairolière specialises in ) onRuePairolièrespecialisesin com fordetails. ing class.Seewww.petitsfarcis. son’s Nicemarkettourandcook- through foodwriterRosaJack- kids toProvençalcuisineis A goodwaytointroduceyour

, 04 93621171 Rue Dalpozzoistheplacefor Nearby, thelong-standing b www.texas-city-restaurant. Emilie’s Cookies ), withitsfunambienceand Hippopotamus 04 93760615,www.gourmet , Le Safari www.hippopotamus.fr

Texas City ★★

b FIND

04 93851361 ( Le Pain à Table Le PainàTable , b www.escalinada.

( 04 93801844 Frites City ). There’sa L’Escalinada b ( (p. 81) has (p. 81)has

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04 9392 , ) on (21 ). ). Credit MC,V. Sept–June. Maincourses13€–31€. noon–3pm and7–11pmTues–Sun and 7–11pmWed–SunJulyAug, Open 7–11pmMon–Tues,noon–3pm family favourite. cials—home-made lasagneisour the day,includingalistofspe- wood-fired pizzasaretheorderof ness. Deliciouspasta,fishand changed littlein30yearsofbusi- port, thehomelycookinghas ily-run restaurantsinSaint-Jean out ofseason.Aswithmanyfam- is filledwithlocalfamilieseven yachts inthemarina,thispizzeria geraniums andviewoutoverthe With itsginghamtablecloths,red Vieux Nice.Kidswillenjoy bargain-priced familylunchin delicious. It’sthebestbetfor a apples andcreamisespecially sweet crepewithcaramelised after GrannySmithapples,the Aptly forarestaurantnamed serves Bretongalettesandsalads. square, thisinformalcrêperie With tablesspillingontoapretty b 5 placedel’AncienSénat,Nice, Granny’s INSIDER TIP INEXPENSIVE 06 14251092 decades. lent, zarzuella, (p. 82) anditsSpanishequiva- diners withtheirbouillabaisse wife Paolahavebeentempting Jean-Pierre andhisPortuguese menu (costing9.80€).Owner taurants toofferachildren’s 14 38)isoneofthefewfishres- rant LaGoélette Along Saint-Jeanport,

★

VALUE

for almosttwo ( b 04 9376 Restau-

11/1/10 2:06 PM Family-Friendly Dining Recipe: Socca

Pancake-like socca is a Niçoise institution, and competition to make the best is stiff: among the contenders are Chez René at 1 rue Pairo- lière (b 04 93 85 95 67), Chez Pipo at 13 rue Bavastro (b 04 93 55 88 82) and Nissa Socca at 7 rue Sainte-Réparate (b 04 93 80 18 35). If you fancy making this speciality yourself, here’s the recipe: 250g chickpea flour 500ml water 2 tbsp olive oil Salt Pepper Combine the water, flour and oil, then season with salt and pepper. Whisk well and pour through a strainer to remove lumps. Pour a thin layer onto a pre-greased baking sheet and leave for a few minutes, then place in a very hot oven (ideally a wood-fired oven). Pierce any bubbles with a fork as they appear. Leave until well browned, then sprinkle with freshly ground pepper, cut into squares and serve.

playing with the outdoor train La Zucca Magica ★★ VALUE set and exploring the neighbour- 4 bis quai Papacino, Nice, b 04 93 56 ing toy shop, Atelier de Jouets, 25 27 run by the same Antibes family If vegetarian food tasted this that run Granny’s. good all over the world, I’d turn Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily exc. vegetarian. Set on the western Wed. Main courses 3.50€–8:30€. Credit Cash only. side of Nice port, this pumpkin paradise—where children under Emilie’s Cookies ★★ FIND 11 eat for free—is the eccentric 1 rue de la Préfecture and 9 rue creation of chef Marco, self- Alberti, Nice, b 04 93 13 89 58, proclaimed King of Pumpkins. www.emiliescookies.com Children will be intrigued by Young owners Emilie and Céline the year-round Hallowe’en decor dreamed up the idea of opening a of wall-to-wall pumpkins in coffee shop while travelling in the every guise, and everyone will be US. The result is this all-day café wowed by simple but tasty fla- where you can relax in armchairs vours. Pasta and potato-based with a bagel, quiche or sandwich dishes whizz out of the hushed, chosen from a Beatles-themed candlelit open kitchen (an extra menu—or a melt-in-the-mouth course or two is usually thrown cookie baked before your eyes. in), with children able to pick and choose from the dishes Open 8am–6:30pm Mon–Fri, 9am– 6:30pm Sat. Main courses Lunch they like. menus from 6.90€. Credit MC, V Open 12:30–1:30pm and 7–10pm (10€ or over). Tues–Sat. Main courses three-course 81

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82 3 Monaco & the French Riviera 99 79 it’s timetoeatwhenyouhearthe middayboomofthecannoninstalledin1861 a mustforfamiliesvisitingNice,andisgreatplacepicnic—you’ll know Tour Bellanda,nexttotheHôtel Suisse onQuaidesÉtats-Unis. don’t fancythehikeup,there’s abuggy-friendlyliftbesidethe16th-century your childrenclimbontherope webanddasharoundtheplayareas.Ifyou lunchtime. Relaxbesidethechâteau ruinsoradmiretheman-madewaterfallas by theeccentricSirThomasCoventry Moretoremindhiswifethatitwas 20 65 Plage duGrayd’Albion With itsdreamyviewsovertheBaiedesAnges,Parcdu 4 rueBatéguier,Cannes, Comme ChezSoi and with kids’menufor12€, sumptuous children’s menus.Thebestarethe they waitfortheirordersfromthe the importedgoldensandwhile children canmakesandcastlesin Boulevard delaCroisette,where vate beachrestaurantsalong taurants aretheback-to-backpri- mandant André. ian nosharoundRueduCom- on placeduSuquetandposhItal- grand-mère (grandma’scooking) around theVieuxPort,cuisinede You’ll findbouillabaissegalore Rue Meynadier’sdelicatessens. Croisette tofilledbaguettesfrom Michelin-starred cuisinealongLa Cannes hasplentyofchoice,from Cannes &Around eat free.CreditCashonly. dinner menu29€,childrenunder11 set lunchmenu17€,four-course 93 436705 EXPENSIVE TIP The mostfamily-friendlyres- Plage Royale , PicnicwithaView www.lucienbarriere.com , www.vegaluna.com Vegaluna Plage (p. 83).

★★ b ( 04 9338 La La b

04 92 04 92 ( b ), ),

04 04 ) 13 30,www.lespecheurs-lecap.com beach resort:everythingabout ing, wecometothisprivate Every timewehavefriendsvisit- d’Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, 10 boulevardMaréchalJuin,Cap Les Pêcheurs DC, MC,V. Main coursesfrom24€.CreditAE, Open Tues–Sun6pm–12:30am. dessert anddrinkfor20€. with achoiceoffishormeat up to14,thereisaJuniorMenu Bresse roastchicken.Forchildren hours inadvancetodineon Those intheknowringup24 lobster andSimmentalbeef. culinary fantasieswithfoiegras, Sophie Meissonnierconjuresup piping hotfromtheoven,chef you tuckintohome-madebread, comme chezsoi(‘athome’).While sofas, ittrulymakesyoufeel stered chairsandlargecomfy tronomic cuisine.Withitsuphol- Provençal styleandFrenchgas- tiful setliesthissurprisingoasisof of Cannesoccupiedbythebeau- In theachinglytrendyepicentre staff andthecomfyreclinersto the professionalbuteasy-going car valetserviceasyouarriveto the placeissatisfying,from

★★★

Château is FIND 04 9293 11/1/10 2:06 PM Family-Friendly Dining Barbajuans

This Monegasque recipe goes down well with youngsters. Half- moon-shaped barbajuans resemble fried ravioli filled with Swiss chard, spinach and ricotta cheese and make good snacks or starters accompanied with salad. The best barbajuans in Monaco are served at Res- taurant Castelroc (b 377 93 30 36 68) in the old town, with its enviable location overlooking the Prince’s Palace. To make barbajuans at home, visit the Media Gallery at www.visit monaco.com, then scroll down to Recipes.

flop onto after lunch. You can your blue-and-white-striped even swim before lunch to work recliner. The menu offers a sim- up an appetite, changing into ple selection of salads, meat and your swimming gear (or a quick fish, and there’s a two-course baby-change) in one of the children’s menu. Don’t miss the beach huts. You eat your luxuri- ice cream sundaes. It’s only open ant lunch of grilled meat, fish for breakfast or lunch, except in and salads beneath a canopy of July and August when the fire- pine trees, with views over the work festival is on and evening Cap d’Antibes towards the meals are provided. Swimming Lérins islands (p. 67). Despite lessons or water-skiing are avail- the stylish surroundings, no-one able if you book in advance. You will mind if you lark about in can hire recliners and parasols the sea with your children as you from 15€, and towels for 6.50€. wait for your food to arrive. Open Daily 8–10:30am, noon– Advance booking is recom- 4:30pm (beach open 9am–7pm) mended for restaurant and Jan–Oct. Main courses 14€–26€. recliners in peak season. Children’s menu 11€. Credit AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities Open Daily 10am–7pm May–Sept. Main courses 18€–40€. Children’s INSIDER TIP menu 10€. Credit AE, DC, MC, V. If you don’t want to pay hotel breakfast prices in Cannes, grab MODERATE a pain au chocolat, hot drink and freshly squeezed orange juice for Plage Royale 6.50€ at Le Petit Paris (b 04 Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes, 93 38 88 60) on Rue des Belges. b 04 93 38 22 00, www.plageroyale. com Monaco This beach restaurant along Cannes’s famous La Croisette is Reasonably priced pizza and a hassle-free place to bring chil- pasta restaurants line the pedes- dren, who can play on the trianised streets of the old town, climbing frame as you relax on Monaco-Ville, while Larvotto beach is home to numerous 83

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84 3 Monaco & the French Riviera 15 the HôtelMétropole( 97 9595,www.starsnbars.com www.lanotebleue.mc wiches), andthere’sasupervised Mex, pizzas,steaksorsand- run-of-the-mill fastfood(Tex- flatscreen TVsasyousnackon the latestsportseventson expats ofallages.Youcanwatch diner isalwayspackedoutwith trendy teenagers,thisAmerican From familieswithbabiesto 6 quaiAntoine1er,Monaco, Stars ‘N’Bars 9€. CreditMC,V.Amenities courses 16€–30€.Children’smenu and mid-Sept–mid-Dec.Main mid-Sept, 9am–5pmMar–mid-May Open Daily9am–midnightmid-May– castles. holidays, thereareevenbouncy table football.Duringsummer children’s menus,aplayareaand sters arewellcateredforwith with happyfamilies,andyoung- bench seatingthat’susuallyfilled is aninformaldiningareawith Next totheposhdiningterrace grilled fishtopastaandrisotto. national flavours,fromsushiand Monaco. Themenuoffersinter- taurant isacutabovetherestin excellent cuisine,thisbeachres- With itshipfurnishingsand Grace, Monaco, Plage duLarvotto,AvenuePrincesse La NoteBleue rites include Loftily pricedgastronomicfavou- family-friendly beachrestaurants. MODERATE ). Joël Robuchon b

377 93500502, ★★ b

377 9315 b 377

at ( du Pirate in particular, the harbour-fronted in particular, theharbour-fronted offers surprisinglygoodvalue: market Villefranche-sur-Mer come withalargepricetag.Up- Yet the FrenchRivieraneedn’t overlooking Monacoport. bar/restaurant hasalargeterrace to-wall sportsmemorabilia,the As wellasseveralfloorsofwall- video-game arcadeforteenagers. for childrenunder2)anda (parental supervisionisrequired playroom foryoungerchildren Nice &Around breakfast. often exclusiveofVATand and September.Priceslistedare modation anytimebetweenMay secure reasonablypricedaccom- best tobookwellinadvance out insummermonthssoit’s French Rivieraisoftenpacked A victimofitsownsuccess,the ACCOMMODATION FAMILY-FRIENDLY MC, V. Children’s menu11€.CreditAE,DC, Oct–May. Maincourses9€–26€. Sept, Tues–Sun11am–midnight Open Daily11am–midnightJune– Hôtel de laDarse aces suchasthe style, it’shardtobeatRivierapal- When itcomestolivingupin the Saint-Jean–Cap-Ferrat (p. 85)or concorde-hotels.com the friendly b

04 92147700 Palais delaMéditerranée ( b Hôtel La Fiancée Hôtel LaFiancée

04 93766740 Royal Riviera , http://palais. (p. 85) and (p. 85)and ) in Nice. ) inNice. ,

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11/1/10 2:06 PM Family-Friendly Accommodation www.fianceedupirate.com), with pool and double rooms with ocean views from 95€. For a little more money, you can stay at the bang-in-the-centre Hôtel Welcome (b 04 93 76 27 62, www. welcomehotel.com), loved by film-maker Jean Cocteau (double rooms with sea view from 108€). Nice’s new B&B, Le Dortoir (b 04 93 88 93 63, www.ledortoir. net) on Rue Paradis, is already

filling its spacious yet competi- Royal Riviera tively priced suites (from 100€) with trendy families. Deluxe Room or Suite with their VERY EXPENSIVE parents. You can fit two extra Royal Riviera ★★★ beds in a Junior Suite, but you’ll 3 avenue Jean Monnet, Saint-Jean– be more comfortable if you book Cap-Ferrat, b 04 93 76 31 00, www. one of the 16 interconnecting royal-riviera.com rooms. Children are provided This is my favourite luxury with mini-slippers, dressing family-friendly hotel along the gown, flannel and teddy bear on Riviera. It’s not just the swish arrival, and while you’re being furnishings and location that do pampered at the spa, they can it for us, but also the welcoming enjoy table tennis and water- staff. Rooms in the main hotel skiing lessons. Both the gastro- have the bonus of sea views, but nomic restaurant and the the bedrooms and bathrooms in simpler, poolside restaurant have the recently built Orangerie are children’s menus. Not surpris- more generously sized. Children ingly, the hotel is filled with under 14 stay free if sharing a happy, well-heeled families.

TIP The Best Riviera Ice Cream Stops In Monaco, stop off at the Le Café de Paris (b 377 98 06 36 36) to spy on the Aston Martins parked in the Place du Casino as you down the principality’s best sundaes. In Cannes, the top spot is Gilles Vilfeu b 04 93 39 26 87) on Rue des États-Unis, which serves up more than 40 flavours including sorbets. In Nice, masterful ice cream maker Fenocchio (b 04 93 62 88 80, www. fenocchio.fr) in Place Rossetti and in Rue de la Poissonerie is an institution, though its icy crown is under threat from newcomers serving home-made ice cream, including Crema di Gelato (b 04 93 54 10 32) in Rue de la Préfecture.

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86 3 Monaco & the French Riviera hoteldeladarse.com Martinez Croisette, trytheswanky seafront grandhotelsalongLa on anightortwoinoneofthe If you’rewantingtosplashout Cannes &Around room mid-Feb. CreditAE,MC,V.In children 2–104€.Closedmid-Nov– free, extrabed13€.Breakfast8€, triples from79€,quads89€.Cot Rooms 21.RatesDoublesfrom57€, the nearbychildren’splayarea. there’s nolift.Toddlerscanenjoy several restaurantscloseby.Alas, breakfast isserved,butthereare each winterrefurbishing.Only ment severalyearsago,andspend control oftheday-to-daymanage- owned thehotelsince1925,took original proprietors,who’ve you wantair-conditioning.The port; askforarefurbishedoneif with balconiesoverlookingthe nished doubles,triplesandaquad choose fromcomfortablyfur- exceptional value.Familiescan Darse, thissimplehoteloffers looking thefamousPortdela With itswonderfullocationover- Mer, Général deGaulle,Villefranche-sur- Port delaDarse,32avenuedu Hôtel delaDarse DC, MC, V.Amenities Closed Dec–mid-Jan.CreditAE, 255€, JuniorSuitesfrom715€. Rooms 96.RatesDoublesfrom hotel-martinez.com INEXPENSIVE

b 04 93017254,www.

( b

04 92987300 Inroom ), withits

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VALUE

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92 984448,www.villadestelle.com also furnishedstudiosandone- air-conditioned, andthereare plainly furnishedbutcleanand 1958. Thesmallroomsare get, runbythesamefamilysince godsend fortravellersonabud- street inCannes,theFlorianisa A no-frillshotelinthetrendiest hotel-leflorian.com Cannes, 8 ruedeCommandantAndré, Hôtel LeFlorian sharing theirparents’room. Children under12stayfreewhen summertime children’sclub. to teensareentertainedatthe enjoys sometimeatthespa,tots private beach.Whilemum piano barandCannes’slargest 12–14 ruedesBelges,Cannes, Villa d’Estelle MC, V.Inroom free, extrabed10€.CreditAE,DC, apartment from450€perweek.Cot from 350€perweek,one-bedroom Rates Doublesfrom65€,studios Rooms 20rooms,11apartments. night. during thedaybutarequietat looking theschoolcanbenoisy rented bytheweek.Roomsover- bedroom apartmentsthatcanbe INSIDER TIP INEXPENSIVE whisk uptheredcarpet. celebrities ontheir30-second folk, andyou’llusuallyonlyspot films arereservedforindustry rants doubletheirprices,festival the filmfestival:hotelsandrestau- Avoid stayingin b 04 93392482,www.

★★★ Cannes

VALUE

FIND during during b 04 11/1/10 2:06 PM Family-Friendly Accommodation One of Cannes’s best-kept secrets, Credit AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities this apartment-hotel more than In room makes up for a lack of sea views (except from the four-bedroom INSIDER TIP penthouse suite) with reasonable Bargain-hunters will love the prices and convenient location diminutive La Jabotte (b 04 93 minutes from La Croisette. Along 61 45 89, www.jabotte.com), with tasteful, neutral decor, this overlooking sandy Salis beach on 19th-century hotel has a plunge the Cap d’Antibes, within walking pool and an independently distance of Antibes old town and 10km from Cannes. Its 10 com- owned, self-service sushi restau- fortable rooms (including one rant. Each of its apartments has family room) start at 69€ per an American-style kitchen with night and are scattered around a microwave, washing machine and mimosa-strewn patio. dishwasher. Options for families range from studio apartments (with double bed and sofa-bed) to Monaco & Around three-bedroom apartments. Most The best luxury Monaco hotels have communicating doors, too. for affluent families are the We’d recommend choosing an Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel (b 377 apartment in the new building, as 98 06 02 00, www.montecarlobay. they have fresher, more contem- com), with rooms from 325€, porary decor. and its sister the Monte-Carlo Apartments 23. Rates Studio apart- Beach Hotel (b 04 93 28 66 66, ments 135€, or 95€ per night for www.monte-carlo-beach.com), 3-night stay. Cot/extra bed 12€ per with rooms from 310€. Set in 10 night, 25€ per week-long stay.

TIP The Best Campsites on the Riviera Camping du Pylone (b 04 93 74 94 70, www.campingdupylone.com) on Avenue du Pylone in Antibes has a pool, children’s pool, restaurant, supermarket and bakery. Located 200m from Marineland theme park, it also offers volleyball, football, table tennis and games nights. Tent/caravan pitches per night start at 25.50€ for two adults and two kids under 8. Les Cigales (b 04 93 49 23 53, www.lescigales.com) on Avenue de la Mer in Mandelieu-La-Napoule offers mobile homes and studios for up to six people. Less than 1km from the sea, it too has a pool, children’s pool, snack bar, playground, table football and table tennis. Weekly rentals for mobile homes start at 360€. Camping Parc Montana Le Sourire (b 04 93 20 96 11, www.camping- parcsaintjames.com) on Route de Grasse in Villeneuve-Loubet lets mobile homes for up to eight people (from 305€ per week). Although 4km from the sea, this camping village has play areas, a pool, table tennis, minigolf and a restaurant (open mid-May to mid-September).

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88 3 Monaco & the French Riviera La Croisette,Cannes Le PetitMontmartre restaurant, kidswillbebusypaintingorcreatinga3Dsculptureoftheirhands. parents relaxatastreetsidecaféorgrabsnackneighbouringChezPascal Charles undergroundcarparkisjustoppositeonBoulevarddeFrance).While day andSaturdaysatherdiminutiveartstudioontheedgeofMonaco(Saint- Portrait artistPruneorganisesworkshopsforkidsfrom3yearsoldonWednes- What betterwayforkidstospendarainydaythanpaintingpottery? opened tral MonteCarloistherecently sized poolandwatersportsclub. private landingstage,Olympic- around ashelteredbayandhas Monte-Carlo Beachcurves Roquebrune–Cap-Martin, the 5-minute walkfromMonacoin sandy-bottomed lagoon.A children’s paddlingpooland Carlo Bayhasachildren’sclub, acres ofgardens,theMonte- Old Town’snumerouspizzaandpastarestaurants. can enjoythesubterraneanaquariumbeforegrabbingasnackatoneof here, it’sa5-minutewalktotheOceanographicMuseum(p. 73),whereyou nearby busstopLaCrémaillèrestraighttoMonacoVilleontherock.From 17 boulevardGénéralLeclerc,Beausoleil.Afterwards,takeano.2busfrom TIP A cheaperalternativeincen- Novotel Monte-Carlo ForaRainyDay ( b

06 15017983

80 hotel-capitole.fr Capitole ( com ment-hotel should alsocheckoutapart- night. Self-cateringfamilies double roomscostfrom88€per lo’s casino)isalsoworthalook; (yet within500mofMonteCar- while thesimplyfurnished from 180€pernightandpool, , b www.petit-montmartre.com

377 998300 ), withcomfortablerooms )

in Eze. ( b

Eza Vista 04 932865 ) inBeausoleil , www.novotel. ( b

04 9707 , www. Hôtel ) isat 11/1/10 2:06 PM

4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays

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90 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays Le Muy C GRASSE &THEARRIÈRE-PAYS has transformed theInternationalPerfume Museum inGrasseintoa tion of20th-centuryart,while architectFrédéricJung’s5-yearfacelift Paul deVenceisonceagainwowing art-loverswithalegendarycollec- its bestmuseums.Thenewly refurbishedFondationMaeghtinSt.- sine andplentifulactivitiesto keepyourchildrenfromboredom. ‘petiteness’, theyhavegainedinworld-classart,Michelin-starred cui- light-drenched, cobbledstreets.Whatthesevillageshavelost in lages thatdrewPicasso,Chagall,MatisseandD.H.Lawrence totheir locals playingpétanqueinshadedcourtyards,andmedievalhilltopvil- with metre-thickstonewallsdrapedinbougainvillea,pastis-drinking D908 Isola 20002 Grottes 34 deSt.-Cézaire Graine &Ficelle9 Gorges deSaorge 7 Fondation Maeght13 Confiserie Florian20 Buggy Cross 21 Auron 1 Attractions Fayence Fayence Ubraye Ubraye N202 Colmars Colmars D562 The regiongreetedthenewdecade withthere-openingoftwo Mons Mons Pays (‘back-country’)isaworldapart, urving behindtheglamorousRivieracoastline,Arrière- Barcellonnette Bar Barcellonnette Annot Annot St.-Cézaire- St St.-Cézaire- sur-Siagne sur-Siagne D563 .-Cézaire- cellonnette D2202 Daluis Daluis Guillaumes Guillaumes Jausiers Jausiers DU MERCANTOUR 34 Estenc Estenc PARC NATIONAL A8 Pégomas Cabris Cabris N85 Auvare Auvare Valberg V Valberg E80 N7 FRANCE D900 alberg Gourdon Gourdon 33 Théniers Théniers Auron Aur Auron Puget- Puget- 27 32 31 Parfumerie Molinard29 Parc NationalduMercantour 4 delaValmasque 22 Parc Départemental delaBrague 19 Parc Départemental Paintball 0614 laParfumerie 32 de Musée International 30 on D64 29 3 GrasseGrasse 28 Isola 2000 Isola 2000 1 15 26 Cannes 20 24 25 ValbonneValbonne Beuil Beuil Tourettes- Tourettes- MouginsMougins sur-Loop sur-Loup 23 Ascros Ascros 16 Ilonse Ilonse N202 2 19 D2205 12 Bonson Bonson Biot 17 Villars-Sur-Var Villars-Sur-Var 0 0 18 Vence Vence 11 9 10 IITALY 13 21 TALY SS21 14 22 N202 Le New Punjab30 La Taverne Provençale 15 16 Crêperie desArts Café desMusées28 Brittain’s Restaurant 24 Dining Verrerie deBiot17 by4WD6 Vallée desMerveilles Valberg 3 Trophée d’Auguste8 Scénoparc 5 10 km l'Escarene l'Escarene Touet-de- Touet-de- Vésubie San Martin- Vésubie San Martin- L Nice Peillon Peillon I 10 mi fullofoldfarmhouses Lantosque Lantosque G L 4 antosque Peille Peille U P A80 Belvedere Belvedere 5 R eille

I ITALY A Limone Piemonte Limone Piemonte 8 Sospel N Sospel La Turbie La Turbie L CaraglioCaraglio Vernante Vernante a Turbie D2204 S MONACO

E Monte-Carlo Orion Bed&Breakfast 11 Le Hameau12 Hôtel deMougins25 Clos desCyprès26 Auberge deTourrettes 31 Haute33 Auberge delaVignette Accommodation Les Terraillers 18 Le Tilleul10 Le Pigeot23 Parc desMonges27 Avignon Avignon Marseille A 7 6 Area of E74 detail SS20 Borgo SanDalmazzo Borgo SanDalmazzo N204 Roya Breil-sur- Br Roya Breil-sur- FRANCE E74 eil-sur- E10 Cuneo Airole Airole Tende Tende Nice

ITALY Pigna Pigna 11/1/10 2:06 PM Mondovi sweet-smelling haven for children, complete with interactive tours, Visitor Information buggies for toddlers and a supervised play area. Less pastoral and more populated than other Provence landscapes, the Riviera’s back-country will appeal to families who like to combine countryside with year-round convenience. You can design your own perfume in Grasse, watch glass-blowing in Biot, go gourmand in Mougins and cook up a storm in Le Pont du Loup and St.-Jeannet. Yet when you want to be far from the crowds, you’re within an hour’s drive of remote, alpine pastures in the Alpes-Maritimes hinterland, with its gorges, grottes (caves) and mountain goats.

VISITOR Orientation INFORMATION The A8 runs along the coastline from the Italian border near The French Riviera Regional Menton, past Nice and Cannes Tourism Committee runs the and into the Var. From this website www.cotedazur-tourisme. main artery, smaller roads run com, with useful information on into the Arrière-Pays. There’s a attractions and events as well as turning at Cannes onto the N85 a practical guide to help you pre- (commonly known to locals as pare for your stay. Other useful La Pénétrante) towards Mougins resources for parents staying on and Grasse, at Cagnes-sur-Mer the Côte d’Azur include http:// onto the N7 towards Vence, and kidookid.com and www.familyfirst. near Nice onto the N202 head- fr, which both provide informa- ing up towards the ski resorts tion in English on events, activi- and the Alpes de Haute- ties, shopping and childcare. Provence. Meanwhile, the picturesque D2210 (roughly Getting There parallel to the A8) runs from Grasse through back-country By Plane For flights to the near- hills towards Vence. Major res- est airport, Nice, see p. 57. taurants, hotels and attractions By Train For Eurostar/TGVs to in the back-country are usually Antibes, Cannes and Nice, see well signposted. p. 58. TER local trains run from Cannes to Biot (15 minutes) and Getting Around to Grasse (30 minutes) via Bus services run from Nice Air- Mouans-Sartoux and from Nice port to Grasse, Vence and to Tende via villages in the Sophia Antipolis and to ski Niçois Arrière-Pays, including resorts in the Azure Alps; see Peille, Peillon and Sospel. www.nice.aeroport.fr for details. By Car See p. 34. Families staying in central Grasse, Mouans-Sartoux or Biot will be able to reach many 91

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92 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays Nice. Hertz( found besidethetrainstationin and Europcar( their villa,butyou’llneeda who justwanttochilloutat language newspapersforfamilies newsagents sellingEnglish- equipped withfoodstoresand bonne andMouginsarewell attractions bytrain.Vence,Val- co.uk Avis Europcar hire firms. local busservices,taxisandbike- tourist officescanrecommend the Riviera,seep. 92.Local Airport andatmajorstationson most places.ForcarhireatNice you’ll stillneedacartoaccess Mercantour NationalPark,but train linkstoNiceandthe Peillon andSospelhavedirect further. VillagessuchasPeille, if youplantoexploretheregion car, and Nice. tions inAntibes,Cannes,Grasse For thoselookingtorenta Shopping: Post Offices: Pharmacies: Internet Cafés: grasse1.fr Hospitals: Banks: Aires and11boulevardduJeude Ballon.After-hourspharmaciesoper- ate onarotabasis—theisposted oneachpharmacy’sdoor. and Saturday10amto1pm. Valbonne, isopenMondaytoFriday10am1pmand2:30 8pm, Grasse. Budget ( ) alsohavecity-centreloca- b

08 20611631 ( HSBC( b ( ) onChemindeClavaryrunsa24-houremergencyservice.

www.hertz.co.uk 08 25829021 b CentreHospitalierdeGrasse( Seep. 105and,formarkets,p. 106.

www.europcar. 04 93874537 You’llfindchemistsincentralGrasseat28placeaux LaPoste( b

Player’sCafé( 04 92423000 ) canbe Fast Facts:Grasse ) and b car ),

) 08 009042

), 22placeauxAires,Grasse. b

04 93120500 Mougins’s BuggyCross(p. 104). fume atMolinard(p. 102). the Florianfactory(p. 100). Gorges deDaluis(p. 101). Park (p. 103). in theMercantourNational 8 7 6 cometti courtyard(p. 99). the FondationMaeght’sGia- 5 4 3 2 1 Attractions Children’s Top10 WHAT TOSEE&DO lée desMerveilles(p. 103). engravings by4WDintheVal- caves (p. 96). xylophone attheSaint-Cézaire

Climbing Swimming Tasting Spotting Quad-biking Exploring Designing Listening b ), 9boulevardFragonardin

04 93095211 hand-madesweetsat ), 3bisrued’Opioin bronzefiguresin iron-rungladders tothestalactite prehistoricrock yourownper- therapidsat inthedustat , www.ch- 11/1/10 2:06 PM What to See & Do

Grasse

9 Snowboarding with the chil- permeated with the smell of dren’s ski club at Isola 2000 50,000 cut roses for the Expo (p. 104). Rose festival, and rose-strewn events are scattered around the 0 Sleeping in a Jungle Book town, from the Palais des Con- tree house at the Orion Bed & grès to the Musée Villa Jean- Breakfast (p. 113). Honoré Fragonard. In Cours Honoré Cresp, a rose-infused Child-friendly Events & market sells everything from Entertainment candles to chocolates. Each Throughout the year, the back- August, the Jasmine Festival country villages host festivals celebrates the start of the jasmine where you can pick up local pro- harvest with flower parades and duce and join in with the villag- a ‘Miss Jasmine’ competition. ers’ fun. The best places to keep May and Aug. Adm Expo Rose: 5€, track of what’s coming up are children 6–12 3€. Jasmine Festival: www.cotedazur-tourisme.com, see Grasse tourist board website (www.ville-grasse.fr) for adm prices with listings of almost 4,000 Mid-July–mid-Aug. Adm Evening events, and http://videgreniers06. performance: from 16€; child 3–12 free.fr, with information on local from 13€. Zoo visit: 2€. Credit AE, brocantes (bric-a-brac fairs). DC, MC, V. Amenities Fêtes Florales ★★★ Enfantillages ★★ Grasse, b 04 97 05 57 90, www. Le Pré des Arts, Valbonne, b 04 93 ville-grasse.fr 12 32 30 France’s perfume capital, Grasse Face-painting, pottery classes is the place to come for flower and magic workshops are the festivals. Each May, the town is 93

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94 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays www.ville-grasse.fr it’s nowbackin fashion.A concentrated onthecoastline, 1970s and1980sasinvestment but afterbeingsidelinedinthe been picture-postcardperfect, queens andcoronets,hasnever back-country hideawayfor France’s perfumecapital,longa narrow streetsofGrasse. their ochrefacadesalongthe as youbrowsetheshopswith You cansmellthejasminesoaps Tourist office: Grasse Towns &Villages Amenities 1st weekendinDec.AdmFree. in PlaceMéjane.Filmsandtheat- aux Trésors,thelocaltoylibrary concert hallandatco-sponsorÎle Events areheldatLePrédesArts weekend children’sfestival. order ofthedayduringthis speak thelanguage. able eventochildrenwhodon’t mated filmsaregenerallyenjoy- but thepuppettheatreandani- rical performancesareinFrench, 92 682745 13/08 928928 Les VisiteursduSoir Le Studio La Strada Cinéma Casino angloinfo.com symbol. Forcurrentlistings,seethecinema’sownwebsiteor For English-languagefilms,lookforthe‘VO’(versionoriginale) bonne,

★★ b

04 93129188/08928928

b , 15boulevardJeu-de-Ballon,Grasse, . , 201routedeCannes,Mouans-Sartoux, 04 93366666, English-language Cinemas . . , 30avenueHenriIsnard,Vence, , SalledesFêtes,EspacedelaVignasse,Val- Mougins nearby grottes(caves)andgorges. museums, familiescandiscover town’s perfumefactoriesand old-town centre.Aswellasthe painted buildingsaroundthe agents arespringingupinfreshly interior decorshopsandestate starred cuisine.Artists’studios, for JacquesChibois’sMichelin- www.mougins-coteazur.org Mougins La BastideSt.Antoine well-informed gourmetsflockto ing respitefromthebeach,and Cannes bringsday-trippersseek- recently restoredtrainlinkwith b Le Candille the long-established hold severalMichelinstars,from nomic restaurantsthattogether It’s chock-a-blockwithgastro- mainstays oftheArrière-Pays. has expandedintooneofthe This picturesquehilltopvillage Tourist office: shop ( families, withthebestfish foodie heavenforself-catering

, 04 93752366 www.lesvisiteursdusoir.com Poissonerie Develay, torelativenewcomer

★★★ b . Butit’salsoa b b

04 93401710/08 04 93758767, 08 928928 ) andthebest b

04 9220 Moulin de (p. 108) www. .

11/1/10 2:06 PM What to See & Do FUN FACT Getting Rid of the Smell The French craze for perfume began in 16th-century Grasse, when the town’s leather-makers devised a way of concealing the unpleasant odour of animal hides with fragrance. When the influential royal Catherine de’ Medici was given a pair of perfumed gloves, courtiers rushed to follow suit. The town subsequently became renowned for perfume, as is alluringly depicted in Pat- rick Süskind’s dark novel and film, Perfume (for adults only), most of which was actually shot in Barcelona.

butcher (Boucherie Lerda, Vence ★ b 04 93 90 01 81) in the region. Tourist office: b 04 93 58 06 38, Located midway between the www.vence.fr glamorous Cannes coastline Overlooked in favour of its pho- and the perfumed hills of togenic sister, Saint-Paul de Grasse, it’s also a good place Vence, Vence is the Arrière- for family-friendly activities Pays’s second town after Grasse. such as quad-biking and horse- A popular stopover for many riding, and boasts an antique-car pre-eminent 20th-century artists museum. and writers, this cathedral town Valbonne & Biot ★★ has neat streets and flower beds Valbonne tourist office: b 04 93 12 that speak of quiet prosperity. 34 50, www.tourisme-valbonne.com Among its tranquil charms are Biot tourist office: b 04 93 65 78 00, riding on the place du Grand www.biot.fr Jardin’s carousel and wandering through the pedestrianised These photogenic medieval vil- streets of the medieval old town. lages combine as a hub for the You can enjoy spotting Marc 30,000-strong international Chagall’s mosaic in the cathe- community working at the dral, D. H. Lawrence’s grave nearby technology park, Sophia- plaque in the cemetery (although Antipolis. Valbonne is so Anglo- he was later cremated) and phone that it has an English Matisse’s Chapelle du Rosaire. bookshop (p. 106), a British Vence provides a convenient grocery store (p. 105 and p. 94) gateway for families to explore and an English-language cinema. the gorge-dotted valleys of La Biot defines itself by its bubble- Tinée and La Vésubie. strewn glassware and by the fact One of the back-country’s that 20th-century Cubist painter most exclusive and priciest Fernand Léger lived and places to stay, the neighbouring worked here. Both villages are village perché (hilltop village) of very popular bases for families, Saint-Paul de Vence ★★★ with child-friendly fêtes, attrac- (tourist office: b 04 93 32 86 95, tions and nearby parks. www.saint-pauldevence.com) is 95

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96 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays Cézaire-sur-Siagne, 1481 RoutedesGrottes,Saint- FIND Grottes deSt.-Cézaire Spectacular Views Natural Wonders& for buggies. although itmaynotbesuitable bled streetsandartists’studios, journey hereforthenarrowcob- (p. 99). Itisworthmakingthe to theexaltedFondationMaeght home toartists’workshopsand www.lesgrottesdesaintcezaire.fr Hilltop Cabris de laMadonerestaurant. with its gastronomic Auberge http://cabris.chez-alice.fr office: Sainte-Agnès hilltop villagesthatincludeoverrated The Riviera’sback-countryisfamedforitsvillagesperchés— views, climbuptothe panoramas. Forthebest cuisine anddramaticRiviera places tofeastonProvençal ulate villageisburstingwith behind Grasse,thisimmac- hidden gems.Inthehills is oneoftheback-country’s Cassien lake. Cap-Ferrat totheSaint- from thejuttingcoastlineof here youcanseealltheway century châteauruins.From courtyard besidethe10th- cypress-shaded gravel art galleries; sive Trophée des Alpes monument (p. 99); andarchetypal sive TrophéedesAlpesmonument(p. 99); b Villages Perchés(HilltopVillages)

04 93605563, Gourdon , withitseagle’s-nestviews; b 04 93 60 22 35, 04 93602235,

(tourist , withitsLeNôtre-designedchâteaugardens;

★★ )

St.-Paul deVence These cavesareattheirmost vated bytheeerie soundofthe daughter Alexandrawascapti- death skullsorjellyfish?My like concretions:canyousee bizarre shapesinthewaxwork- Children willhavefunspotting and chocolate-colouredrock. oxide, marble-creamlimestone combination ofrich-rediron years old,theyareadazzling relief onahotday.Sixmillion ideal placetoseekabitofcool destination, buttheyarealsoan them theperfectwet-weather beautiful whenitrains,making Saint-Paul deVence La Turbie , with itsimpres- Peillon , withits , 11/1/10 2:06 PM stalactite xylophone that our This diminutive farm in the What to See & Do guide played for us.Wear warm dandelion-strewn hills behind clothing and flat shoes, and take Vence is a bucolic paradise for a harness for babies, since there young children, with donkeys to are 123 steps which get slippery feed, baby rabbits to coo over, in wet weather (there are stair and a chicken run. The best time rails). And beware the rust-red to come is weekend brunch, rock stains if you’re wearing when Parisian exile Isabella light-coloured clothing. cooks up a vegetarian storm Open Daily 10:30am–6:30pm June– using produce from her organic Aug, daily 10:30am–noon and vegetable patch, which you can 2–5:30pm Sept–May. Closed Dec– enjoy at convivial communal Jan. Adm 7€, children 13–18 5.50€, tables with baby lambs darting 6–12 4€. Credit AE, DC, MC, V. around your legs. There are low Amenities tables and chairs for children, and drawing materials to keep Aquaria & Animal Parks them amused. Isabella also organises cookery classes and activity ★★★ GREEN Graine & Ficelle days for children. For all visits, 670 chemin des Collets, Saint-Jean- make sure you book in advance b net, 5km northeast of Vence, 06 85 and bring cash. 08 15 64, www.graine-ficelle.com

Rabbits at Graine & Ficelle

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98 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays You canspotwildboarorfoxes is aninvitingplaceforfamilies. to Mougins,LaValmasquePark land stretchingfromValbonne Covering 561hectaresofpark- Vallauris RD103 fromValbonne,RD135 RD35 fromMouginstoValbonne, Valmasque Parc Départementaldela Amenities the water. detergents havebeguntopollute near SophiaAntipolis,where Avoid thelowerpartofriver (minor roads)604,4and198. tables offroutesdépartementales You’ll findparkingandpicnic between BiotandValbonne. dering pathoftheBragueriver this parkthatfollowsthemean- matic Mediterraneanplantsat fares amidthewaterfallsandaro- Listen outforwarblersandfield- RD103 orRD198fromSophiaAntipolis RD604 fromValbonne,RD4Biot, Brague Parc Départementaldela Gardens Nature Reserves,Parks& Credit Cashonly. adults 11€,childrenunder128€. children under1219€.Farmvisit brunch andfarmvisit35€(exc.wine), [email protected]). AdmWeekend only, byphoneore-mail(E:graine. Open Dailybyreservationinadvance HQ fortheKnightsTemplar. Da VinciCodeaddictsmaybeinterestedtoknowthatBiotwasoncean FUN FACT

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DaVinci’sCodehitsProvence? FIND (p. 104). veilles flora, includingwildorchids, haven forendangeredfaunaand 75km isasparselypopulated national parkstretchingfor France, this70,000-hectare Forming thelungsofsouthern www.mercantour.eu ★★★ Parc NationalduMercantour Amenities Antipolis. la ValmasquenearSophia spread alongtheRD35Routede easily accessible,withcarparks tables aplenty,andtheplaceis bird-watching hidesandpicnic There arechildren’splayareas, with summer-floweringlotus. Merle lake,whichoverflows 60 birdspecies;oradmireFont prairies, whichhostmorethan oak andpineforestsopen as youwalkorbikearoundthe visit tothe watersports (p. 101),orpaya ‘Active Families’,p. 104)and eagles. Youcanenjoyskiing(see bearded vulturesandgolden INSIDER TIP the cantour NationalParkisaboard scenic wayofgettingtotheMer- Between JuneandSeptember,a 9am fromNiceSNCF stationto veilles.com), whichrunsdailyat 93 049205,www.tendemer Train desMerveilles (p. 103)or Vallée desMer-

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to make space for the garden What to See & Do the town of Tende in under 2 that surrounds the trophy, which hours with an onboard tour guide is a good place to wait with a (English-language guides are buggy if you don’t fancy the available). Return journeys cost climb up to the viewing point 22.60€ with several daily after- for some bird’s-eye coastline noon departures from Tende. views. Open Tues–Sun 9:30am–1pm and Historic Monuments 2:30–6:30pm mid-May–mid-Sept, 10am– ★ 1:30pm and 2:30–5:30pm mid-Sept– Trophée d’Auguste mid-May. Adm 5€, under 18s free. Avenue Albert 1er, La Turbie, b 04 93 Credit Cash only. Amenities 41 20 84, www.la-turbie.monuments- nationaux.fr Top Museums Commonly known as the Fondation Maeght ★★★ Trophée des Alpes, this extraor- Saint-Paul de Vence, b 04 93 32 81 dinary Roman monument rises 63, www.fondation-maeght.com above La Turbie like an unlikely crown. Dating back to the 6th If you visit just one art museum century bc, the trophy was origi- during your trip, make it the nally 49m (160 ft) high and freshly refurbished Fondation topped by a statue of Emperor Maeght. The brainchild of art Octavius Augustus. With just dealers Aimé and Marguerite the pedestal remaining, you can Maeght, this private foundation only wonder at the grandeur of has a vast collection of 20th- the original statue; however, the century works by Marc Chagall miniature replica in the museum (p. 102), Henri Matisse, Pierre should help to fire your imagina- Bonnard and other artists who tion. In the mid-20th century, lived and worked on the sun- several buildings were destroyed drenched Riviera. It’s best to visit on a sunny day, as the gar- Trophée d’Auguste dens are filled with sculptures and pools. Children love exploring the garden rooms, from Joan Miró’s labyrinth to Alberto Gia- cometti’s courtyard of bronze figures and Georges Braque’s mosaic pool. There are several staircases and no lift, so it’s worth bringing a baby harness. Note that you’ll often find the car park below the museum full, but there are usually spaces in the one next to it.

07_683361-ch04.indd 99 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 100 100 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays museesdegrasse.com vases orlearning aboutthe ancient Egyptianembalming dren mayenjoydiscovering supervised playarea.Olderchil- kids’ interactivetoursanda new PerfumeMuseumboasts architect FrédéricJung,Grasse’s facelift, overseenbycelebrated Looking splendidafterits5-year Grasse, 2 boulevardduJeudeBallon, Parfumerie Musée Internationaldela Credit AE,DC,MC,V. dren 10–189€,under10sfree. 10am–6pm Oct–June.Adm11€,chil- Open Daily10am–7pmJuly–Sept, Contemporary artgallery,Fondationmaeght INSIDER TIP session forkids8–12. fr). It’s30€fora2-hourdiscovery 93 589590,www.paintball06. Maeght with Saint-Paul deVence’sFondation sion intheforestedhillsnear their energywithapaintballses- Let yourkids(from8up)release b 04 97055800,www.

★★ Paintball 06 ( b 04 well foradaytripincombina- Theperfumemuseumworks Monday afternoon. fume workshopsforkidsevery holidays, thereare2-hourper- and vanilla.Duringtheschool rials suchasjasmine,bergamot they cansniffrawperfumemate- straight tothegreenhousewhere jars. Youngeronesshouldhead perfume distillersanddecanting laboratory filledwithcopper process ofperfume-makingina MC, V.Amenities Aug Mon2:30–4:30pm6€.Credit free. 2-hourfamilyworkshopsJuly– Mar; closedNov.Adm3€,under18s Mon andWed–Sun11am–6pmOct– (until 9pmSat),daily11am–6pm Apr, Open Daily10am–7pmMay–Aug Parfumerie Molinard tion withthe Honoré Cresp. park withaliftbeneathCours car, parkinthemulti-storeycar perfume. Ifyou’recomingby where kidscandesigntheirown fume factorynextdooror Fragonard (p. 102) per- 11/1/10 2:06 PM What to See & Do Waterfalls & Watersports

With their waterfalls and jaw-dropping descents, the Alpes- Maritimes’s gorges are a must-see. While it’s worth the trip for the views alone, adventurous families can also enjoy sports such as rafting (from 6 to 8 years), canyoning and Via Ferrata (p. 106). Most accessible are the Gorges du Loup in the hills behind Grasse. From more than 1,220m (4,000 ft) above sea level, the 45km Loup river cascades through waterfalls such as the Cascade de Courmes and Cascades des Demoiselles and erodes rock into striking formations like the Saut du Loup. The Gorges du Loup are a popular point for aquatic hiking and canyoning (b 06 86 66 35 49, www.loisirs-explorer. com/destination-nature). The pure, fish-laden waters of the Roya river flow through the Gorges de Saorge near watersports mecca Breil-sur- Roya, where you can try canyoning, kayaking, rafting, canoeing or tubing with Roya Evasion (b 04 93 04 91 46, www.royaevasion.com) or Mat & Eau (b 06 81 56 21 56/06 83 18 48 74, www.mat-et-eau.com). The Gorges du Cians and Gorges de Daluis in the Vallée de la Tinée are dramatic, with their paper-cut narrowness and burnished red- ness. Nicknamed the Little Colorado Niçois, the Gorges de Daluis are idyllic for watersports in springtime, when the waters are higher. Water- sports are offered by Les Eskimos à l’Eau (b 06 11 38 02 82, www. eskimosaleau.com) and Eau Vive Evasion (b 04 92 83 38 09, www. eau-vive-evasion.com), include rafting, hot dog, kayaking, aquatic hiking and rapids swimming.

Arts & Crafts around the factory floor, where workers crystallise violet, sub- Confiserie Florian ★★★ merge clementines in syrup and Le Pont du Loup, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, hand-dip fruit into orange- b 04 93 59 32 91, www.confiserie florian.com coloured chocolate. At the foot of the famous Pont A must for children of all ages du Loup (‘Wolf’s Bridge’), there’s who’ve read Roald Dahl’s Char- a sweet-smelling, Mediterranean lie and the Chocolate Factory, this garden. Its benches are handy for working sweet factory produces baby-changes or just relaxing organic sweets and chocolates and admiring the rocky vista. infused with Provençal flowers Open Daily 9am–6:30pm Jan–Sept and fruits using traditional 19th- and Dec; factory visits 9am–noon and century recipes. As well as visit- 2–6pm Jan–Sept and Dec. Closed ing the sweet museum for its Oct–Nov. Adm Free. Credit MC, V. ancient sweet recipes and cook- Amenities ing utensils, you can look

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07_683361-ch04.indd 101 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 102 102 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays com Trainee alchemists mix their Trainee alchemists mixtheir this 19th-centuryfactory. perfume-making workshopat can take partina30-minute rainy day?Children4andup Stuck forsomethingtodoona b 60 boulevardVictorHugo,Grasse, AGE4&UP Parfumerie Molinard of localwildfires. the LacSaint-Cassientofilltheirbellieswithwaterbeforedowsingflames (sea planes)comeintoaction.Youcanseetheseplanesswoopingdownon discarded cigarettebuttcanstartaragingforestfire.Thisiswhen When theheatsizzlesandwindblowsinsummertimeProvence,one INSIDER TIP 04 92423311,www.molinard. noons cost25€. classes onWednesdayafter- 11 0694).Two-hourcookery Cuisine desFleurs Yves Terrillonat English-speaking Parisianchef making chocolatedessertswith kids over8cantrytheirhandat Next doortoConfiserieFlorian, TIP Saint-Paul deVence.Fanscansee moreofhisworkinCimiez(p. 73). ticism withreligion,Russian-born Chagall(1887–1985)livedanddiedin Famousforanimatedandheavily symbolicartworksthatmingleroman- Happiness wouldn’tbehappiness withoutaviolin-playinggoat.’ ‘It feelslikehowbeinginloveshould be.Floatingthroughadarksky. painting’s floatingweddingcouplewithaviolin-playinggoat,Anna says: bookshop ownerWilliam’s(HughGrant)wall.Commenting on the a posterofChagall’spaintingLaMariée( Notting Hill,inwhichthecelebratedactressAnna(JuliaRoberts)spots Older childrenmayconnectartistMarcChagallwiththe film FlyingFirefighters Chagall ComestoNottingHill L’Atelier dela ( b

★★★ 04 92

30-minute by advancebooking.Adm30-minute Mon–Fri 9:30am–6:30pm.Workshops Open Daily9:30am–7pmJuly–Aug, parking opposite. without alift,andthereisstreet fumery hasafour-storeycarpark from thetowncentre,per- ever theywant.A5-minutewalk can re-ordertheirperfumewhen- 15,000 secretformulas,sothey Their formulajoinsanarchiveof around 100eaudeparfumsmells. essences fromacollectionof shop, choosinguptoadozen for a90-minutein-depthwork- fume. Kidsover12cansignup of theirpersonallydesignedper- with adiplomaand30mlbottle For 28€,childrencomeaway Céline—who’s amumherself. charming, English-speaking own perfumes withthehelpof The Bride,1950)ontravel- Canadairs

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Child-friendly Tours What to See & Do Vallée des Merveilles by 4WD ★★★ Panza Merveilles, Tende, b 04 93 04 73 21/06 07 58 37 19, www.panza merveilles.com A great (and easy) way to tour the Vallée des Merveilles in the Mer- cantour National Park is by 4WD, Traditional glassmaking in Biot especially if you want to avoid hours of walking with young chil- workshop for children over 4 28€ (children. Guide Franck Panza (or one dren under 12 must be accompanied of his English-speaking colleagues, by an adult, to a maximum of three all official Mercantour National per adult); 90-minute workshop for Park accompagnateurs) drives you children 12–18 and adults 40€. Credit through alpine pastures dotted AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities with wild orchids and along bumpy, military routes (nick- Verrerie de Biot ★★ named ‘rock-and-roll routes’ by b Chemin des Combes, Biot, 04 93 locals) towards a sparser, snow- 65 03 00, www.verreriebiot.com lined landscape. From here, it’s This working glass factory could only a short walk to Europe’s larg- do with a lick of paint, but the est collection of prehistoric rock sight of four old men in shorts engravings. We loved our visit and sandals blowing on molten here: while my children cooed glass down the end of long metal over rabbit-like marmots, my hus- pipes is great entertainment for all band and I stared at ancient picto- the family. Somehow this Dad’s grams scratched into reddish slate Army of glassmaking manages to and listened to Franck’s stories produce glassware of surprising about the fiercely independent beauty and complexity. After- Vallée de la Roya people. The best wards, you can buy the famous month to come is June, when the bubble-strewn glassware, visit the rhododendrons are out in force. glass eco-museum and contempo- Pick-up is available from Tende rary glass gallery, or grab a snack train station. at the café (with children’s menu). Open June–Sept, advance booking Open Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm, Sun required. Adm 70€ for the day, chil- and bank holidays 10:30am–1:30pm dren 8–14 35€. Credit Cash only. and 2:30–7:30pm May–Sept, Mon– Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun and bank holi- INSIDER TIP days 10:30am–1:30pm and 2:30– In the depths of the Mercantour 6:30pm Oct–Apr. Adm Free. Credit National Park (p. 103), the rein- AE, MC, V. Amenities troduction of wolves, which began in 1992, has sparked fierce debate between ecologists and shep- herds. Listen to the divided 103

07_683361-ch04.indd 103 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 104 104 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays 07 13,www.buggycross.fr Mougins, 909 cheminFontduCurrault, Buggy Cross Active Families noparc free forthoseunder4years. for kidsupto12years,andare Tickets cost12€foradults,10€ and audioguidesareavailable. Vésubie. English-speakingtours alpha-loup.com) inSaint-Martin for yourselfonatripto opinions andseethewolf-packs Monaco A1970sconcreteconfection, and askischoolforkidsfrom3to7years. more thanIsola.There’sacrècheforchildrenfrom6monthstoyears option fromNicetoAuron,Isola2000andValbergwith 92 298886 the largestskiareainAlpes-Maritimes,attractive Alpes-Maritimes byskiingintheAzureAlps.With135slopes,makingit If you’reintheregionwinter,makemostofmultifaceted to bothAuronandIsola2000in2hours,while com Alternatively,easilyaccessible riding, paintballingandtrampolining. Auron andIsola2000offersummerpursuitssuchascycling,horse- There’s alsoacrèchefortoddlersfrom15monthsto4years.Both snowboarding clubandaskischoolforchildrenfrom4to6years. a waterpark.It’sgoodforthosewithpre-teens,asthere’skids’ ners tointermediates;facilitiesinclude22skilifts,afunicularrailwayand the newestandhighestresortwithbestrangeofslopesforbegin- get therebybus. Ifyoudon’twantthehassleofdriving,bestbudgetoptionisto from 6monthstoyearsandasnowschoolforchildren3years. suited tointermediateskiersandsnowboarders.There’sacrècheforkids auron.com berg in2 ) organisesaski-bus(from30€including1-dayskipass)fromNice b ( b 04 93690274/061282 1

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11/1/10 2:06 PM What to See & Do

Vallee des Merveilles

Open Wed, Sat and Sun 11am–dusk in 2004—it’s stacked from floor (daily 11am–dusk public and school to ceiling with British favourites, holidays). Adm over 5s from 10€ for from steak-and-onion pasties to 10-minute slot on 50cc motorbike or quad-bike. Credit Cash only. Ameni- Walkers crisps and classic ale. It’s ties also a good place to buy freshly- made sandwiches and salads Shopping (weekdays only) for a picnic lunch. They’ve now opened up a Brittain’s Home Stores restaurant nearby (p. 109). Forum roundabout, 1913 route de Open Mon–Sat 9am–6:30pm. Credit Cannes, Valbonne, at junction of D3 MC, V. Amenities and D103, b 04 93 42 01 70, www. brittains-stores.com Cerise If you find your children 31 boulevard du Jeu de Ballon, Grasse, b 04 93 36 30 20 clamouring for a jam doughnut or Heinz beans, head to this gro- Situated on a palm-lined avenue cery store set up by the epony- in central Grasse, Cerise has mous John and Caroline Brittain been selling French-designed

TIP Little Tourist Train Foot-weary families can jump on the Fragonard motorised petit train (b 06 07 75 63 60, www.petits-trains.com) for a 40-minute trip around central Grasse. Trains depart from Cours Honoré Cresp between 11am and 5pm daily, May to September. 105

07_683361-ch04.indd 105 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 106 106 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays mornings. englishbookcentre.com swimming costumestosocks. 18 formorethan30years,from children’s clothesforagesupto Provençal market: Organic foodmarket: Local producemarket: Flower, fruitandvegetable market: Flower &vegetablemarket: Flower &vegetablemarket: Clothes &foodmarket: taste budsbytreatingyourselfto day mood,ortoinspireyour get yourchildrenintotheholi- French ontheMoveforKids,to copy ofthesing-alongCD This isagoodplacetopickup Village, 12 rueAlexisJulien,ValbonneVieux English BookCentre 3–7pm. CreditMC,V. Open Tues–Sat9:30am–12:30pm, Surian, Vence,Tues–Sunmornings. TIP com www.guidescapade.com over. Meanwhile,nearCaille, rungs wereusedinWorldWarItomoveItaliantroopsthroughthe scale dramaticrockfacesusuallyonlyaccessibletoexperts.Similariron a formofrockclimbingalongiron-rungladdersthatallowsbeginnersto If you’dliketotryclimbingwitholderchildren,checkoutViaFerrata where youscalecaveceilingsandexplorestalagmitesstalactites. Breuil-sur-Roya, forchildrenover14,and Park, are TwobasesthatofferViaFerrata,bothintheMercantourNational mountain rangebetweenItalyandAustria. b ) offerskids10orovertheworld’sfirstsubterraneanViaFerrata, 04 93122142,www. TheArea’sBestMarkets Roya Evasion GrandPré,Saint-VallierdeThiey, Sunmorning. Iron Bars&Pot-holes PlaceduCentenaire,Peymeinade, Monmorning.

★ PlaceduMarché,Sospel,Sunmorning. PlacedesArcades,Valbonne,Frimorning. ) in Saint-Martin de Vésubie, for children 10 or ) inSaint-MartindeVésubie,forchildren10or ( b

Lou Païs PlaceduGaulle,Biot,Tuesmorning. 04 939146, PlaceauxAires,Grasse,Tues–Sun prices atthisshopnexttothe luscious toiletriesatfactory gel and treatyourselftoother Smell thefleurd’orangerbath 20 boulevardFragonard,Grasse, Fragonard 3–6:30pm. CreditMC,V. Open Tues–Sat9:30am–1pm, DVDs andgames. dren’s books,itsellschildren’s vest. Aswellasadults’andchil- Jacques Chibois’sProvenceHar- Junior customerswon’tgoaway historic Fragonardfactory. 93 364465,www.fragonard.com ( PlaceduGrandJardinand b

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04 04 11/1/10 2:06 PM empty-handed—there are special FAMILY-FRIENDLY Family-Friendly Dining duck soaps and children’s fra- DINING grances, including Eau des Fées (‘fairy water’) for girls and Eau Grasse, Mougins & des Aventuriers (‘adventurers’ Around water’) for boys. At nearby Fragonard Maison Café des Arcades (b 04 93 12 00 (2 rue Amiral de Grasse, b 04 93 06) in Valbonne offers family- 40 12 04). you’ll find cute friendly dining in the pretty, embroidered toy bags and cud- pedestrianised Place des Arcades, dly toys. where kids can run around as Open Daily 9am–6pm Feb–Oct, daily you dine, while Cabris has sev- 9am–12:30pm and 2–6pm Nov–Jan. eral restaurants overlooking a Credit MC, V. kids’ playground, including the JouéClub moderately priced Le Flambeau b 04 93 60 61 00 42–44 avenue Foch, Vence, b 04 93 ( ) on Rue Frédéric 58 51 36, www.joueclub.com Mistral, with Provençal and Ital- ian cuisine. In Grasse, we recom- This branch of the French toy mend La Grignote (b 04 93 09 91 chain sells all the latest educa- 45) in Place aux Aires and Café tional toys and board games for des Musées (p. 109) as the children, and is also well-stocked most reliable reasonably priced with everything from Doudou et options in central Grasse. Compagnie teddy bears to inflat- Gastronomic restaurants for a able pool toys and skateboards. romantic night away from the Open Tues–Sat 9am–12:30pm, kids include Jacques Chibois’s 3–7pm. Credit AE, MC, V.

Provencal Produce

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07_683361-ch04.indd 107 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 108 108 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays Grasse, theidyllic 09 6822 afternoons. classes forkidsonWednesday Chambru nowofferscookery where newchefSébastien 59, www.lesterraillers.com Vieux Château Place del’Église,Gourdon, ★★★ La TaverneProvençale MC, V. lunch menufrom39€.CreditAE, Main courses39€–45€;three-course 2pm and7:30–10pm;closedNov. Open Mon–TuesandFri–Sunnoon– menu for25€. choose theirownthree-course detail. Childrenupto10years the keytoitssuccessisin you toconcoctyourownblend, with itspotsoffreshherbsfor lier Geraldine,totheteatrolley and theknowledgeablesomme- the mouth-wateringcheesedome yet robustFrenchcuisine.From run restaurantofferssophisticated starred compatriots,thisfamily- do it.Lessformalthansomeofits starred cuisine,thisistheplaceto their firsttasteofMichelin- If you’dliketogiveyourchildren 11 cheminNeuf,Biot, Les Terraillers 78 24, Moulin deMougins com www.aubergeduvieuxchateau. www.jacques-chibois.com Michelin two-starred St. Antoine MODERATE EXPENSIVE ) inCabrisandthefamous

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), on couscousandsultanaswhen daughter Alexandrawhogorges many children,especiallymy of Moroccancuisineappealto The sweet-and-savouryflavours Village, 16 rueAlexis-Julien,ValbonneVieux Le Pigeot MC, V. 27€. Children’smenu11.50€.Credit mid-Nov–Jan. Maincourses10€– Mar–June andSept–mid-Nov.Closed 7–10:30pm July–Aug,12–2:30pm Open Dailynoon–2:30pmand at thisaltitude. extra layerastemperaturesdrop for thebestviews,andbringan table ontheedgeofterrace selection ofpizzas.Askfora prefer tochoosefromthewide ing adrink,butlittleonesmight course children’smenuinclud- Cannes coast.There’satwo- genic viewsreachingasfarthe gingham tableclothsandphoto- with Provençalflavours,amid (‘grandma’s cooking’)infused serves cuisinedegrand-mère long-standing restaurant.It We oftenbringfriendstothis 7:30–10pm, Mon–TuesandSat7:30– Wed–Fri andSunnoon–1:30pm Open Daily7:30–10pmJune–Aug, stone stepsonthemezzanine. ground floorratherthanupthe around, bookatableonthe young oneswhoareliabletorun that suitchildren.Ifyouhave furniture andhalf-heightchairs can decorwithhand-painted lar haunthasarichNorthAfri- dishes betweenfour.Thispopu- so youcaneasilysharethree menu, butportionsareample, we visit.There’snochildren’s b 04 93121753

★★

FIND 11/1/10 2:06 PM Family-Friendly Dining The Olive Tree

From tourist-brochure photos to tablecloth designs, the gnarled branches and silvery leaves of the olive tree are often used to symbolise southern France. This adaptable tree survives unrivalled heat and neglect. Its green and black fruit is used to make tapenade (olive paste) and olive oil, while its wood is hand-crafted into chopping boards and corkscrews. Appreciated since Roman times, when olive trees were reserved for burning on the altars of the gods, the olive tree is still a protected species in France.

10pm Sept–May. Main courses 16€– dessert, try the home-made tarts 27€. Credit AE, MC, V. that wait temptingly in a glass cabinet. The small outside ter- INSIDER TIP race fills up quickly at lunchtime Families longing for a full English in summer months, so arrive breakfast, a cream tea with early. New mums may dislike scones or fish and chips (15€) trekking to the outside loo, may find that Brittain’s Res- taurant (b 04 93 12 03 97, where there’s no room for baby www.brittains-restaurant.com), changes. on the outskirts of Valbonne, hits Open Mon–Fri 8:30am–7pm, Sat and the spot. Those who can’t imag- Sun 9am–7pm Apr–Oct; Mon–Fri ine a holiday without a good 8:30am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm Nov– curry should go to reasonably Mar. Main courses 8.80€–12€. priced Le New Punjab (b 04 Credit MC, V. 93 36 16 03) in Rue des Fabreries (just off Place aux Aires) in INSIDER TIP Grasse. My daughter likes the A scenic, and easily accessible, creamy chicken korma and naan picnic spot is La Valmasque breads. They also do take-outs park (p. 98), with its lotus-scat- and deliveries. tered lake and play areas.

INEXPENSIVE Vence & Around Café des Musées A good bet for family dining is 1 rue Ossola, Grasse, b 04 92 60 99 00 Tourrettes-sur-Loup, with a range of cuisine for all taste buds, Wedged between museums, this from Provençal to Mexican. diminutive café is the ideal place The most famous names for to stop off for a croque-monsieur gastronomic cuisine around or to grab a morning coffee and Vence are Michelin-starred Le croissant. The menu offers a Saint-Martin (b 04 93 58 02 02, good selection of salads, but www.chateau-st-martin.com) on locals tend to opt for the hot plat Avenue des Templiers on the du jour (daily special). For 109

07_683361-ch04.indd 109 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 110 110 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays recommend priced, family-friendlyfare:we’d restaurants servingreasonably de Venceareanumberoftourist ScatteredaroundSaint-Paul and celebrityclientele. its decorofpricelessartworks prisingly earthymenuthatbelies Général deGaulle,withasur- Saint-Paul deVence’sPlacedu Colombe d’Or saintpaul.com gian wafflesandicecream.On ing home-madesandwiches, Bel- open duringtheafternoonserv- juggling kids’meal-times,as it’s chips. It’sperfectforfamilies between hamwithpastaor chosen winemenu.Kidschoose sine accompaniedbyawell- dreams updeliciousFrenchcui- den tree.ChefStéphaneMarie square shadedbyagnarledlin- tables scatteredonaprettycobbled rant inSaint-PauldeVence,its Le Tilleulisourfavouriterestau- b Place duTilleul,Saint-PauldeVence, Le Tilleul Malabar www.la-colombe-dor.com outskirts ofVence,and orange-carrot, With itshand-craftedicecreaminflavoursrangingfromMalagato hamburgers andicecreams. the outerRempartOuestfor 24 3647 Place ClémenceauinVenceservestheback-country’sbesticecream. near thechurchforpizzas,and MODERATE 04 93328036,www.letilleul- TIP ) onMontéedelaCastre AnIceCreamStop (

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04 93326014 Le Caruso Les ComptoirsCoffédis ( b

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for outdoordiners. autumn, blanketsareprovided chilly daysinspringand 205 avenueduGolf,Mougins, Hôtel deMougins Around Grasse, Mougins& ACCOMMODATION FAMILY-FRIENDLY courses 14.50€–29€.CreditMC,V. Open Dailynoon–10:30pmMain where newItalianchefAlessio round atLeJardinrestaurant, tronomic fareisservedallyear lush Mediterraneangarden.Gas- built masscatteredaroundthe bastide, aswellinfourrecently the garden)arehousedinold terraces orbalconiesoverlooking bedrooms andsuites(allwith forts ofafull-servicehotel.Pretty bastide withthecreaturecom- Provençal chicofan18th-century Hôtel deMouginscombinesthe com 92 1707,www.hotel-de-mougins. INSIDER TIP EXPENSIVE ( rie desArts savoury crepeonthemenu. the steak-hachéfilledObélix ownership. Let’shopetheykeep in RoutedeVence,haschanged Tourrettes-sur-Loup, the One ofourfamilyfavouritesin b

04 93246039 ( b 04 93240831) ) inpedestrianised

★★ Crêpe- b 04 92 04 92 11/1/10 2:06 PM

Family-Friendly Accommodation Recipe: Courgette-blossom Fritters

Most children love this southern French dish. Here’s how to make it at home: Courgette flowers 150g flour 250ml cold milk 2 eggs, separated Salt, pepper, parsley Vegetable oil First make up the batter by combining the flour, milk and two egg yolks. Then beat the egg whites until stiff and fold them into the batter. Season with finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Dip your courgette flowers into the batter and fry them two at a time in sizzling oil. Remove them when they are lightly golden and serve immediately.

Giove serves up rich Mediterra- paint, red hexagonal floor tiles nean flavours. The hotel also offers and stylish pastel interiors. in-room massages, you can enjoy Rooms Narcisse and Jasmin both a game of pétanque, or even fit an additional bed comfort- book on one of their cookery ably. Lunch and dinner aren’t courses. During the summer you provided, but you can use the can also enjoy informal lunch- BBQ and eat at one of the tables time snacks at the Pool House. dotted around the garden. Keep Rooms 51. Rates Doubles from 195€, an eye on your children around two connecting rooms for four from the pool, as it’s only partly 430€, extra bed 50€. Credit MC, V. fenced off. If Clos des Cyprès is Amenities booked up, another local B&B worth trying is La Surprise (b 06 MODERATE 77 86 86 38, www.lasurprise.co.uk) Clos des Cyprès ★★ in Magagnosc. 87 chemin des Canebiers, Grasse, Rooms 5. Rates Doubles from 80€, b 04 93 40 44 23, www.closdes two adjoining rooms for four from cypres.fr 160€, extra bed 40€. Credit MC, V. Amenities Avoid the ragged hotels in Grasse town centre in favour of this INEXPENSIVE B&B a 10-minute drive away: ★ with its rough dry-stone walling Parc des Monges and hectares of wild-flower 635 chemin du Gabre, Auribeau sur b fields, it offers a slice of vieux Siagne, 04 93 60 91 71, www. parcdesmonges.com Provence. Owners Pierre-André and Anne-Marie have carefully On the riverfront below the restored the 19th- century farm- village perché of Auribeau-sur- house with traditional lime-based Siagne lies this well-landscaped 111

07_683361-ch04.indd 111 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 112 112 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays from 3.50€.CreditCashorbank then childover74.10€,under 7 two adults,caravan/tentandcar, camping/caravanning from16.90€ for mobile homesfrom400€perweek, Open Apr–Sept.RatesFour-person lets, pluscamping/caravansites. Rooms 15mobilehomesandcha- to payincash. fer inadvanceifyoudon’twant sheets, andorganiseabanktrans- You’ll needtobringyourown door poolwithababypool. court andawell-barricadedout- area, tabletennis,apétanque catered forwithachildren’splay separate toilets.Familiesarewell cooker ventilationsystemsand kitchens; mobilehomesalsohave bathrooms andwell-equipped chalets havewoodenterraces, night stays.Mobilehomesand camping/caravan sitesforsingle- mum outofhighseason)and weekly rental(or3nightsmini- homes andfive-personchaletsfor site offersfour-personmobile communal washingfacilities.The paintwork ofitschaletstothe clean, fromthecream-and-green oleander. Everythingisspotlessly mimosa andsummer-flowering campsite withitswinter-flowering try theeccentrichotel Alternatively,ifyou’relookingforaluxuriousalternativetorealfarm, fronted stablewherefarmanimalsgrazebesideyouasdine. antiques andrichlycolouredfabrics;therestauranthousesaglass- farm B&Bis Get backintouchwithnatureastayonfarm.Ourfavourite com 01, www.vignettehaute.com ), withitsstylish,rusticbedroomsandnewlyappointedeco-lodges. Graine &Ficelle Down ontheFarm Auberge delaVignetteHaute

), withitsspaciousroomsfilled ( b

06 85081564,www.graine-ficelle. Auberge deTourrettes Vence &Around Sureau hasagorgeousprivate single beds.Thefirst-floorSuite room thatcanfituptothree ble bedroomandatwinbed- family suites,eachwithonedou- fit anextracot,ortherearetwo back-country. Doublebedrooms base forfamiliestoexplorethe stylish innoffersaconvenient village Tourrettes-sur-Loup,this Along themainstreetofviolet aubergedetourrettes.fr Loup, 11 routedeGrasse,Tourrettes-sur- transfer only.Amenities INSIDER TIP MODERATE

buffet lunch. years. Therestaurantalsoserves and arefreeforthoseunder4 12–17, 50€forkidsfrom4–11 90€ foradults,70€kidsaged clubmed.fr) inOpio.Ticketscost pool andsportsfacilitiesat can enjoyday-passaccesstothe Families stayingnearValbonne Med Inroom b ( 04 93593005,www. b 04 93097153,www.

( b

04 934220

Club

11/1/10 2:06 PM

Family-Friendly Accommodation The Mas & the Mistral

The mas (farmhouse) presides across rural Provence and the Riviera back-country. Metre-thick stone walls, shuttered windows and triple-edged, terracotta-tiled roofs were built to resist the whistling mistral wind and the blistering summer sun. Much over-used nowadays by estate agents, the term mas traditionally referred to a low, rectangular farmhouse where families shared the same roof with sheep, doves and even silkworms.

terrace (choose a first-floor room but interiors have a distinctly if you don’t fancy a long climb Provençal flavour: flowered up the stairs). Another major boutis (quilts) and heavy wooden selling point is its tearoom, with furniture predominate. Every large windows overlooking the one of its 17 air-conditioned beautiful valley, serving simple rooms and ‘apartments’ is differ- food from cooked breakfasts and ent; if you want to self-cater, midday bruschettas and salads to no. 15 actually is an apartment, tea-time muffins. There isn’t a with a kitchen. For those with pool, alas, but you can chill out toddlers, I’d recommend the in the herb garden with deck- ground-floor rooms, to avoid chairs aplenty. winding staircases. Rooms 8. Rates Doubles 110€, As well as an infinity pool, suites for four 240€; rates include you can enjoy the use of a spa breakfast. Credit AE, MC, V. Ameni- with a sauna, hammam (Turkish ties In room bath) and Jacuzzi. In summer, there are breakfast buffets on the Le Hameau ★★★ VALUE flower-strewn terrace and lunch- 528 route de la Colle, outskirts of time snacks around the pool. b Saint-Paul de Vence, 04 93 32 80 Rooms 17. Rates Doubles from www.le-hameau.com 24, 150€; family suites from 270€, extra Set in a garden of citrus trees bed 30€. Credit AE, MC, V. Ameni- ties In room and jasmine, this is our favourite address in Saint-Paul de Vence. They’ve been in business for Orion Bed & Breakfast ★★ over 40 years, so clearly we’re GREEN not the only fans—perhaps it’s the reasonable prices in this Impasse des Peupliers, 2436 chemin du Malvan, 10-minute drive from old unreasonably priced area that village, Saint-Paul de Vence, b 04 93 keep guests coming back. The 24 87 51/06 75 45 18 64, www. converted 18th-century stables orionbb.com are reminiscent of haciendas, with their white-washed walls, With its tree-houses named after Rudyard Kipling characters, the 113

07_683361-ch04.indd 113 11/1/10 2:06 PM 07_683361-ch04.indd 114 114 4 Grasse & the Arrière-Pays Tree houseatOrionBed&Breakfast tree-houses: ColonelHathiwith Therearetwospecialfamily fridge andkitchenwareuseful. find thecommunalmicrowave, trampoline, whileadultswill English. Childrenwilllovethe charming hostswhospeakfluent Diane andherdaughterAinaare and aquaticplants.Owner pool isfilteredthroughstones forested garden,andtheoutdoor which arescatteredaroundthe are usedinthetree-houses, dren’s paradise:naturalfabrics Orion isaneco-friendlychil- The hummingofcigales(cicadas)issynonymouswiththe on yourterracedrinkingpastis,withfreshlemonadeforthechildren. when youheartheirsummertimematingcall,knowit’stimetolazearound summer. Malecigalesonlybuzzwhenthetemperaturereaches20°C.So FUN FACT TheCicada’sSong rates includebreakfast.Amenities four-night midweekstayfrom800€; tree-house for3-nightweekendor Rooms 5.Ratesfour-personfamily the poolisn’tfenced. rentals duringpeakseason.Note: mum stay,withonlyweek-long kitchen. There’sa3-nightmini- bed housewithfullyequipped prefer terrafirma,there’satwo- Mowgli withtwinbeds.Ifyou Louie withadoublebedand shower, andthelinkedKing two bedroomsandadouble-sized

Inroom

Provençal 11/1/10 2:06 PM

5 The Western Côte & Inland Var

08_683361-ch05.indd 115 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 116 116 Ansouis Allauch 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var mer fishingvillage tohibernateinpeace. designer boutiquesandchicrestaurants shutupshop,leavingthisfor- crowd theSt.-Tropezpeninsula allsummerlong.Yet,comeOctober, Var islittlevisitedbythekitten heelsandsuper-yachtownersthat Jean-Michel Wilmotte.Most ofthe6,000sqkmverdantinland atre nowhasa21st-centuryglass-panelled counterpartdesignedby lie cheek-by-jowlinRomanFréjuswhereits1stcenturyad amphithe- fishermen darnsardinenetsinSanary-sur-Mer.Ancientand modern vincial towns.WorldchampionswindsurfontheGiensPeninsula as while localsproducecutflowers,honeyandchestnutsinsleepy proof BrigitteBardotastheytanonRamatuelle’sstar-studded beaches, F THE WESTERNCÔTE&INLANDVAR 0 0 la-Ste.-Baume la-Ste.-Baume Musée Archéologique 28 Mont Faron 3 Les Poneys deVerderet 19 Les Îlesd’Or11 Madeleine1 La BasiliqueSte.-Marie- L’AM Santonnière 27 Jardin d’OiseauxTropicaux 12 Funboard Center10 Étangs deVillepey 23 Domaine duRayol 15 Cité Episcopale26 Attractions sur-Mer sur-Mer Sanary- Sanary- St.-Maximin- St.-Maximin- Ginasservis Ginasservis inland hills,theVarisaregionofopposites. rom theBlueFlagbeachesofWesternCôteto forested A50 N560 La Seyne- La Seyne- sur-Mer sur-Mer A51 10 km N8 E712 4 10 mi en-Provence en-Provence 1 D952 Allemagne- Allemagne- Verdon Vinon-sur- Verdon Vinon-sur- 3 2 Brignoles Brignoles D554 Toulon Puget-Ville Puget-Ville Cuers Cuers Porquerolles Porquerolles D554 Regusse Regusse Carnoules Carnoules Riez 6 Giens Giens D560 Hyères Hyè Villecroze Villecroze res D562 Cotignac Cotignac A8 N7 Le CafédeFrance 16 Le Bistrot deMarius7 La Réserve 18 La CrêperieduVieuxPort 24 Chocolathé 30 Dining Village desTortues 13 Villa Noailles8 Parc ZoologiquedeFréjus29 Populaires 21 etTraditionsMusée desArts Mojito Café9 D557 D957 5 12 Le Luc Le Luc 9 Flayosc Flayosc E80 Lorgues Lorgues 7 13 10 N97 A57 8 D952 N98 D559 Tourtour 11 Tourtour 20 D10 Cogolin Cogolin Ste.-Maxime Ste.-Maxime 16 Le Muy Le Muy Canadel-sur-Mer Le Rayol- Canadel-sur-Mer Le Rayol- D955 14 Draguignan Draguignan 21 15 19 D25 Fayence Fayence Bargeme Bargeme D562 Frëjus F Ramatuelle Ramatuelle Mons Mons rë St.-Tropez St.-Tropez jus D563 N98 Les RésidencesduColombier22 Le BaillideSuffren 14 Hôtel LittlePalace 4 Hôtel Le Couvent Royal 2 Hôtel Le Beauvallon 17 Hôtel L’Aréna 25 Camping La Presqu’île deGiens5 6 Camping International Bastide deTourtour 20 Accommodation 22 23 A8 Daytrippersdream 17 28 L 25 Pégomas Pégomas S I St.-Raphaël

G 24 18 t.-Raph N85 Grasse Grasse U 29 26 Marseille Avignon R 27 I 30 FRANCE

Area of A detail N aël

S ValbonneValbonne Gourdon Gourdon E E80 A Cannes Cannes Nice

ITALY Biot Biot A8 11/1/10 2:07 PM Its capital city, Toulon, may leave you unimpressed, but the West- Visitor Information ern Côte is scattered with undiscovered beaches, child-friendly resorts and endless watersports that make it perfect for family beach holidays. When you’ve had your fill of beach fun, head inland to explore mimosa- strewn hilltop villages such as Bormes-les-Mimosas, Ramatuelle and Grimaud. Many Var towns hold bravades (acts of defiance): these festivals give an insight into local people who are grateful to their ances- tors for defending their land from invasion over the centuries.

VISITOR Lille or Paris, then catch a TGV. INFORMATION Contact Rail Europe (p. 32) for timetables and prices. For general information and an By Car See p. 30. overview of this multifaceted region, pay a visit to the website of Orientation Var Tourism (www.tourismevar. com). Families staying near Fréjus The A57/A8 motorway runs will find www.kidookid.com a use- inland from Toulon to St.- ful English-language reference for Raphaël, providing a quick route activities and childcare advice. from one to the other and easy access to places in the inland Getting There Var, including Gonfaron (p. 125) and Brignoles. Alternatively, you By Air Eastern resorts such as St.- can take the more picturesque, Raphael and Fréjus are within but often heavily congested, easy reach of Nice Airport (b 04 D559 (starting and ending on 89 88 98 28, www.nice.aeroport.fr), the N98) along the coast from (p. 58). The Central Var is best Toulon to Ste.-Maxime. served by Toulon-Hyères Inter- national Airport (b 08 25 01 83 87, Getting Around www.toulon-hyeres.aeroport.fr), about 3km south of Hyères and The Var’s coastal towns are well 23km east of Toulon. Ryanair connected by train (except for (p. 29) runs direct flights from St.-Tropez and Ste. -Maxime), London Stansted. Flight time is bus and boat. However, services about 2 hours. For a wider choice to inland Var villages are less fre- of flight options, Marseille air- quent and can be erratic. For bus port is a practical option for timetables, contact Sodetrav b Western Var resorts. See p. 143. ( 08 25 00 06 50, www.sodetrav. fr); for regional train timetables, By Train Anyone concerned see www.ter-sncf.com. about their carbon footprint can Companies offering car hire take the train from London to at the airport and train station Toulon in about 7 hours and to include EasyCar and Alamo St.-Raphaël in about 8: you take (p. 36). the Eurostar from St. Pancras to 117

08_683361-ch05.indd 117 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 118 118 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var bouring Ste.-MaximeorFréjus. Tropez (p. 121)fromneigh- (p. 125). beaches intheSouthofFrance cleanest andmostbeautiful 2 1 Attractions Children’s Top10 WHAT TOSEE&DO what wassubsequentlynamedSt.-Tropezafterhim. and hiscorpsewasputinaboatthateventuallywashedupontheshoresof Christianity underSt.Paul.Hewasbeheadedforrefusingtogiveuphisfaith, Born inPisa,TorpeswasaRomancitizenwhoconvertedto FUN FACT

Sunning Arriving Friday 10amto10pm,Saturday2to10pm. Impérators, St.-Raphaël,isopenMondaytoThursday10am 7pm, d’Hermès, PortFréjus. and 33rueAlphonseKarr,St.-Raphaël. rue duGénéraldeGaulle,Fréjus;846boulevardlaMer,Port Fréjus; chemin deSt.-Lambert,Fréjus,bothhave24-houremergencyservice. Shopping: Post Offices: Pharmacies: Internet Cafés: Hospitals: Banks: 6pm. St.-Tropez, isopenMondaytoSaturday10am12:30pmand 2:30 to vard d’Alsace,St.-Raphaël; Old Town;andPlacedelaRépublique, FréjusPlage. Tropez; AvenueVictorHugo,St.-Raphaël; 75ruedelaJuiverie,Fréjus Gassin, andthe Raphaël Fast Facts:St.-Tropez,St.-Raphaël&Fréjus Cyber-Sp@ce

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Hôpital deSt.-Tropez TheSaint 04 944021 Therearechemistsat9quaideSuffren,St.-Tropez;62 isat39rueFrançoisSibilli,St.-Tropez,and71boule- PostofficesarelocatedatPlace AlphonseCelli,St.- Centre HospitalierIntercommunalFréjusSt.-

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isat68placedelaPorte 04 98125000 pure-bredArabhorses acablecarupMont abouttortoisesand ), RuePierreCurie, theheavenlyÎles ) onRD559in ), 240 11/1/10 2:07 PM What to See & Do English-language Cinemas

For English-language films, look for the ‘VO’ (version originale) symbol. For current listings, see www.angloinfo.com. Cinéma Lido, Rue Amiral Baux, St.-Raphaël, b 08 92 68 69 28. Eldorado, Boulevardbld Gabriel Peri, Draguignan, b 08 92 68 00 71. L’Olbia, Rue du Soldat Bellon, Hyères, b 08 92 89 28 92. Le Cinéma, Cours de la République, Lorgues, b 08 92 68 05 92. Le Pagnol, Carré Léon Gaumont, 107 route du Plan de la Tour, Ste. -Maxime, b 08 92 68 72 12/04 94 43 26 10. Le Royal, 2 rue du Docteur Jean Bertholet, Toulon, b 08 92 89 28 92.

7 Viewing Roman finds and of winter. Events include the ruins in Fréjus (p. 121). election of ‘Miss Mimosa’, a themed carnival parade, markets, 8 Checking out the fish in St.- exhibitions and guided tours (on Raphaël’s market (p. 121). foot or by coach) to see the flow- 9 Watching dolphins off the ers in all their glory. Don’t leave coast of Fréjus (p. 121). without buying mimosa-flavoured sweets or cordial. 0 Windsurfing or kayaking around the Giens peninsula Jan–Mar. Adm Free. (p. 126). Fête de la Bravade Child-friendly Events & St.-Tropez, b 08 92 68 48 28, www. Entertainment ot-saint-tropez.com Many towns in Provence have a Mimosa Festival ★ bravade (‘act of defiance’) in Bormes-les-Mimosas (www. their event calendar. Arguably bormeslesmimosas.com), Le Rayol- Canadel (www.lerayolcanadel.fr), the biggest and best is the one Ste.-Maxime (www.ste-maxime. that takes place in St.-Tropez in com), St.-Raphaël (b 04 94 19 52 52, May, in celebration of the Tro- www.saint-raphael.com) pezian army who protected the port from invaders during the A native of Australia, the Renaissance. Men dress up in mimosa has been celebrated old-fashioned military uniforms every year since it was intro- and women in Provençal cos- duced to the southern French tumes to march through the coast in the 19th century. streets firing muskets, playing Between January and March, whistles and banging drums (it’s resorts along the Var coastline definitely not for the sensitive of hold week-long festivals to hon- hearing). After plenty of singing our this sunny member of the and dancing, the festival ends acacia family, heralding the end with a Mass to celebrate St. 119

08_683361-ch05.indd 119 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 120 120 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var des ArtsetTraditionsPopulai- res www.dracenie.com hyeres-tourisme.com plenty to explore, from the plenty toexplore, fromthe rounding countrysideoffers Draguignan. However,thesur- much forfamiliestoseeincentral its table-topviewsandthe 17th-century clocktower,with charm. Apartfromclimbingthe houses givetheoldtownafaded (town hall)andeleganttown although thegrandsous-préfecture a somewhatdown-at-heelfeel, The formercapitaloftheVarhas Tourist office: Draguignan Cities, Towns&Resorts Last 2weeksDec.AdmFree. that alleventsarefree. the atmosphere,especiallygiven French, you’llenjoysoakingup more. Evenifyoudon’tspeak dance andcircusskills, shops inphotography,fashion, mances ofmusicals,andwork- also filmscreenings,perfor- Christmas market.Thereare accompany thetraditional shows anddancingdisplays,to entertainment includingpuppet where thestreetsarefilledwith bring yourchildrenthanHyères, mas, there’snowherebetterto If you’reintheregionatChrist- Hyères, Fête desEnfants May. AdmFree. through thestreets. himself, whoseeffigyiscarried Tropez (inEnglish,Torpes) ( b

04 94470572 b 04 94007882,www. b 04 94501620,

★★ ), there’s not ), there’snot Musée Musée land, withaninteriormarsh. tombolo’—two 4kmstripsof 48 28,www.ot-saint-tropez.com St.-Tropez touristoffice: 55 7555,www.ste-maxime.com www.hyeres-tourisme.com famous foritswindsurfing, NotriptoHyèreswouldbe over theVarcoast. nard (p. 128)forstaggeringviews Parc Ste.-ClaireandSt.-Ber- to theMediterraneangardensof Place Massillon,thenhikeuphill villas andhavelunchinquaint shops, admirethe19th-century with theirplethoraofhealthfood wander aroundthecobbledstreets take aganderattheoldtown: you lovewatersports.Butfirst to offerfamilies,particularlyif and palm-filledHyèreshasplenty in the18thcentury.Temperate ing QueenVictoria,winteredhere but consumptivevisitors,includ- France began,afterwell-heeled is wheretourismintheSouthof Provence’s mostsoutherlyresort Tourist office: Hyères intriguing Ste. -Maximetouristoffice: St.-Tropez Ste. -Maximeand Blue Flagbeaches will alsolovethe beauty anddiving.Sportyfamilies known fortheirtranquillity, the nearby complete withoutaboattripto medieval roze restaurant-rich turesque villages,including men (p. 130)tonumerouspic- foritstroglodytecaves.

★ Tourtour Pierre delaFée Îles d’Or

★★ b 04 94007824, Flayosc Giens peninsula and and‘double (p. 126), b (p. 137), (p. 137), Villec- 08 9268 b 04 94 dol- 11/1/10 2:07 PM , day trippers mingle with the rich, What to See & Do the famous and the designer-clad. It’s worth a visit just to goggle at the super-yachts backed into the picturesque quayside harbour or gaze toward the Alps from the 17th-century citadelle. Unlike some of its summer visitors, the pastel-painted village of St.-Tro- pez is remarkably unspoilt—town planners keep a very tight eye on development. Even though some places come with a large price tag, savvy families can enjoy St.-Tro- pez without maxing out the credit card. Theme parks such as Azur Parc and Aqualand Parc St. Bernard, Hyeres (p. 129) are nearby, while culture vultures will love the Musée These two towns sitting opposite de l’Annonciade (p. 129). Nei- each other across the Bay of St.- ther resort has a train station so Tropez epitomise the glamour of best access is by boat, car, bus the Côte d’Azur. Mimosa-strewn or—for the well-heeled Ste. -Maxime is the calmer half only—helicopter. of the desirable duo. Endless Blue Flag beaches such as the famed INSIDER TIP La Nartelle and Plage des Elé- Driving to St.-Tropez between phants (p. 124), as well as excel- April and September is insanity— lent restaurants, kids’ play areas, you’ll spend hours in traffic jams. merry-go-rounds and summer Your best option is to take the boat from St.-Raphaël to St.-Tro- trampolines make it a good pez (b 04 94 95 17 46, www. option for a seaside sojourn. tmr-saintraphael.com) or Along La Croisette, the Jardin between Ste. -Maxime and four Botanique is also worth a visit. other ports including St.-Tropez Sadly, the main coastal route into (b 04 94 49 29 39, www. St.-Tropez runs along the sea- bateauxverts.com)—a trip that front in Ste. -Maxime—avoid children will love. Although it’s this busy road by opting for the busy, Saturday (market day) is a Bâteaux Verts (see below) that good time to visit. offer a 20-minute boat service into central St.-Tropez. St.-Raphaël and Fréjus ★★★ Neighbouring St.-Tropez is in St.-Raphaël tourist office: b 04 94 19 a league of its own. Its narrow 52 52, www.saint-raphael.com streets are chock-a-block with Fréjus tourist office: b 04 94 51 83 chic shops and restaurants where 83, www.frejus.fr 121

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l l a a What to See & Do neighbourhood of St.-Aygulf is a Mont Faron (p. 124) for views, great base for enjoying top fam- walks and a zoo. ily attractions such as the Var’s largest activity park, Base Natural Wonders & Nature, theme parks Aqualand and Luna Park (p. 76) and the Spectacular Views Étangs de Villepey nature Massif de Maures ★ reserve (p. 126). Stretching from Hyères to Fréjus Neighbour St-Raphaël is a and covering around 1,350 sq shadow of its turn-of-the-20th- km, the Massif de Maures, with century glory, when it was the forests in the north and maquis exclusive watering hole for scrubland undergrowth in the France’s literati. Nowadays it’s drier south, has plenty to interest best known for its Santa Lucia families. Active types will find Marina (the third-largest on the that there’s plenty of scope for Riviera) and for shopping. You walking, cycling and horse-rid- can enjoy exploring the numer- ing, and everyone should make ous kids’ shops (p. 131) and the time to stop off in the peaceful lively daily Marché République village of Collobrières (tourist food market. office: b 04 94 48 08 00, www. collobrieres.fr Toulon OVERRATED ), which has a thriving chestnut-growing and cork- Tourist office: b 04 94 18 53 00, www.toulontourisme.com production industry, and makes a good base for discovering the This major naval base, the Var’s inland Massif. Afterwards, travel capital, has cleaned up its act north on the winding D39 to considerably since the demise of the area’s highest point, Notre- the Front National-led council, Dame des Anges (780m), to but it’s still not the most attrac- take in the panoramic views and tive place to spend precious holi- the chapel. From here, continue day time. Aside from the port north towards the N97 and with its tourist train and boat Gonfaron—home of the Tor- trips, the real reason to come toise Village and a flying- here is to take the cable car up donkey legend (p. 126).

Whistle-stop Villages

Flower-strewn, hilltop villages abound near the coastline; among the most celebrated are Bormes-les-Mimosas, Ramatuelle and Grimaud. Further inland, few villages can match the imposing position of Mons, perched 820m (2,700 ft) above sea level. Although it’s a trek, you’ll be rewarded with to-die-for views over forested hills towards the Riviera coastline. It’s also the perfect place for a family Sunday lunch, at Lou San Bastian (p. 136).

123

08_683361-ch05.indd 123 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 124 124 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var 68 25 Aleppo pines; of spotsforapicnicunderthe 89 Museum ofProvenceLandings up inthe children lovethe10-minuteride coast, visitthis480mchalkhill— port ofToulonandtheVar For far-reachingviewsoverthe Mont Faron Plage d’Argent,Porquorelles com ( are also19th-centuryfortsand the Formilitaryenthusiasts, there children aged4to10. 12.50€ foradultsand8.50€ Faron’s cablecarandzoo,at combined ticketforMont zoo. Savemoneybybuyinga you fromthecablecarto drawn cartisonhandtotake big cats.Insummer,ahorse- has tobethe jangling). Firststopatthetop bends mightprovejustasnerve- drive, althoughthehairpin Vence (thefaintheartedcan b

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35 0215,www.jotropico.org shake abamboostickat,includ- plants andbirdsthanyoucould Garden ishometomoreexotic The 6-hectareTropicalBird and Bormes-les-Mimosas, RD559, LaLonde,betweenHyères Jardin d’OiseauxTropicaux Aquaria &AnimalParks restaurant Amenities 9€, children2–125€.CreditMC,V. Sat andSun2–5pmNov–Jan.Adm daily 2–6pmFeb–MayandOct,Wed, Open Daily9:30am–7pmJune–Sept, Allow abouthalfadayforvisit. est flyingbirdsinSouthAmerica. from Africa,andjabirus,thetall- parrots fromthePacific,ibis and palmgrove,youcanadmire est, cactus-richMexicangarden through thefresh-smellingfor- and trees.Asyouwander ing some600speciesofplants good alternativeforlunch. ( b

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★ 11/1/10 2:07 PM What to See & Do TIP The Best Beaches The Western Côte offers many beautiful Blue Flag beaches, but you’ll have to head west of Le Lavandou to avoid the crowds. The most family- friendly include: Plage d’Argent, Porquerolles island, Hyères (Blue Flag). A short walk from the village, this Caribbean-esque public, white-sand beach is reputedly the most beautiful in southern France. Plage de la Nartelle, Ste.-Maxime (Blue Flag). A supervised sandy beach with public and private areas. Plage des Jumeaux, Route de l’Epi, Ramatuelle (b 04 94 55 21 80). A family- friendly private beach on the Ramatuelle peninsula, with a restaurant, shop and playground. Plage du Dramont, RD559, St.-Raphaël. One of the main sites of the 1944 Provence Landings, this public pebble beach has watersports and a restaurant.

Parc Zoologique de Fréjus from the audiovisual display at b 04 98 11 37 37, www.zoo-frejus. Tortoise Village, a specialist com sanctuary on the edge of the Massif de Maures With the closure of Cap-Ferrat (p. 123). As Zoo, local families are thronging well as being a breeding centre Hermann tor- to Fréjus as the next-best thing. for the threatened toise Several animals from Cap-Ferrat , the last land tortoise in are being re-homed here and a France, the 2-hectare park is a new lions’ den and monkey house refuge for sick or abandoned tor- are currently under construction. toises; walking around the shady This safari-style zoo is very spread paths, you’ll see more than out, so it’s best to visit by car. 2,500 of the creatures nesting, incubating, being nursed or Open Daily 10am–6pm June–Aug, bathing in the pools. For 30€ daily 10am–5pm Mar–May and Sept– Oct, daily 10:30am–4:30pm Nov– you can pick one to sponsor. Feb. Adm adults 14€, children 3–9 Open Daily 9am–7pm Mar–Sept; 9.50€, children under 3 free. Credit daily 9am–6pm Oct–Feb Adm 10€, MC, V. Amenities children 5–16 6€ (discounted entry if you buy on the website). Credit MC, Village des Tortues ★★ V. Amenities Quartier des plaines, Gonfaron, b 04 94 78 26 41, www.villagetortues.com Natural Reserves, Parks Do you know what a tortoise & Gardens looks like underneath its shell? Domaine du Rayol ★ FIND How long do the babies take to Avenue des Belges, Le Rayol- hatch? You can find out the Canadel, b 04 98 04 44 00, www. answers to these questions and domainedurayol.org more from a volunteer guide or 125

08_683361-ch05.indd 125 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 126 126 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var hide), picking out flamingos, low thefootpaths(orhidein the migrating birds,andyoucan fol- marshland areahavenfor Varoise’, these260hectaresof Known asthe‘PetiteCamargue frejus.fr Off RN98westofFréjus,www. Étangs deVillepey Credit MC,V.Amenities dren under6free,familyticket19€. Adm 9€,childrenaged6–186€,chil- and Oct,9:30am–5:30pmNov–Mar. Aug, 9:30am–6:30pmApr–June,Sept Open Daily9:30am–7:30pmJulyand good spotforlunch. with itshome-madequichesisa booking required).Thecafé flippers provided(ages8andup; explore wearingthesnorkeland ber there’sa‘marinegarden’to calendar, fromJunetoSeptem- year-long eventandworkshop your wayaround.Aswellasa information tohelpyoufind French, there’sEnglish-language tours areonlyavailablein nia andChile.Althoughguided South Africa,Australia,Califor- flora fromtheMediterranean, which hasgardensdevotedto this waterside19th-centuryvilla, a dayexploringthegroundsof Families couldeasilyspendhalf almost beinanepisodeofLost. unidentified bird—youcould the occasionalcryfroman waves crashingontheshoreand Dense forest,exoticflowers, March. 17th century—andtheevent,Fêtedel’Ane,isstillcelebratedhereevery Legend hasitthatadonkeyflewdownravinenearGonfaroninthe FUN FACT FlyingDonkeys.

★ VALUE

Europe’s first paradise. In1963itbecame of the islands,andalsoadiver’s wildest andmostmountainous costs 3€. entry totheswimmingpool door; entryisfree,although personality. visit. Eachislandhasitsown of activitiesmakethemamust- bean-clear watersandmultitude their finesandybeaches,Carib- glamour oftheCôted’Azur,but world awayfromtheglitzand These threesmallislandsarea tourisme.com Off coastofHyères,www.hyeres- Les Îlesd’Or Open Dailydawntilldusk.AdmFree. Var’s largestactivitypark, the beachofSt.-Aygulfor enough ofwildlife,there’salways September. Whenyou’vehad cially busyduringMarchand species thatvisithere.It’sespe- egrets andducksfromover250 (see bouring Nature at thetipof boat ridefromLaTourFondue instead). It’sjusta20-minute (we recommendtakingapicnic restaurants ofvariablequality beaches andseveralhotels cycling orwalking,whitesandy 54km ofsignpostedpathsfor largest andmostdeveloped,with www.tlv-tvm.com ( Port Cros b

04 94519110 Porquerolles national park,

★★ Giens peninsula is the smallest, is thesmallest, ). Neigh- ). ), next isthe Base

11/1/10 2:07 PM

What to See & Do Lire & Learn

The Var has a rich history in children’s literature. Little Prince author Antoine de St.-Exupéry had a home in Agar in St.-Raphaël, and you can admire a fountain monument to the boy-hero there. Meanwhile, the privately owned Île d’Or, off Dramont beach, was immortalised by Tin Tin creator Hergé in L’Île Noire. Ste.-Maxime was the birthplace of bedtime favourite Babar the Elephant, created here in the 1930s by resident Jean de Brunhoff—in Babar’s Travels you’ll see one of the village’s beaches, now known as Plage des Eléphants.

incorporating a maritime zone little shop. The adjacent archae- (Porquerolles is similarly pro- ology museum (p. 128) is tected), and you can sign up for unmissable, and the coolness of a 40-minute accompanied or the cathedral on a hot day is self-guided underwater discovery worth its weight in ecumenical trail. The Île du Levant is most silver. Stop for a drink in the lit- famous for its naturist resort, tle square when you’ve finished. Heliopolis, but 90% of the Open Daily 9am–6:30pm June–Sept, island is a military base and Tues–Sun 9am–noon and 2–5pm no-go area. Oct–May. Adm 5€, under 25s free. Amenities Guided tours (in French). Historic Buildings & Disabled access. Credit MC, V. Monuments La Basilique Ste.-Marie- Madeleine ★ VALUE Cité Episcopale ★ St.-Maximin-la-Ste. -Baume, b 04 94 58 rue du Cardinal Fleury, Fréjus, b 59 84 59, www.lesamisdela 04 94 51 26 30, www.frejus.fr basilique.com In the heart of Fréjus old town, Da Vinci Code addicts will enjoy the bishop’s palace, a compact exploring the mystery of Mary collection of rosy religious build- Magdalene’s remains at this ings, is worth an hour or so of imposing Gothic basilica. In the anyone’s time. The octagonal crypt lies a finely grained marble baptistery dates from the 5th sarcophagus that many believe is century, making it the oldest in the genuine tomb of this saintly France—notice the small door sinner; the book suggests it’s where disciples entered and the beneath the glass pyramid at the larger door where they exited Louvre in Paris. after being baptised. Make sure There’s parking nearby, but to look up as you walk around it’s difficult to find spaces on ‘ye ancient Cloister’ to spy the market days (Wednesdays). Just 14th-century paintings of fantas- opposite the basilica, La Table tical beasts, then buy a monster- en Provence (b 04 94 59 84 61) is themed colouring book from the 127

08_683361-ch05.indd 127 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 128 128 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var tours inEnglish. tourist officeorganisesguided look fortheviewsalone.The St.-Bernard; p. 128)areworth a can’t goinside,thegardens(Parc and Photography national FestivalofFashion com 08 0198,www.villanoailles-hyeres. playground; writer EdithWharton(1862–1937).Entrytoallthreeparksisfree. this bit ofashocktostumbleacross and aruinedcastle,itcomesas In atownwithTemplartower Montée deNoailles,Hyères, Villa Noailles Open Daily9:30am–6pm.AdmFree. and simplesnacks. the perfectstopforicecreams Parc OlbiusRiquier 120)hasthreeparksofnote: Although asmalltown,Hyères(p. derful coastlineviews;and Festival its artsypast,hostingthe advance), thevillastilladheresto (check thewebsiteorphonein and photographyexhibitions lic forrotatingdesign,fashion Although onlyopentothepub- who madeafilmherein1929. Jean CocteauandManRay, avant-garde luminariessuchas played hostinitsheydayto Noailles inthe1920s,villa Mallet-Stevens foraristoCharles get here).DesignedbyRobert have toclimbupasteephill for theDecember and actingasoneofthevenues TIP Cubist ParkLife (p. 120). Evenifyou villa(althoughyou’ll Parc St.-Bernard

★

VALUE everyMay, Children’s , withaminizoo,ponyrides,wanderingpeacocksand Parc Ste.Claire b Inter- 04 98 , atthefootofVillaNoailles(p. 128), withwon- and inthenextroomarescale ther takenfromaRomanhouse, see acompletemosaicofpan- it aroundtown?Oppositeyou’ll Fréjus—where elsecanyouspot in 1970,itisnowtheemblem of from 1stcenturyadanddugup 78, www.frejus.fr Place Calvini,Fréjus, FIND Musée Archéologique Top Museums double-headed Hermes of the little archaeologymuseum,part Small butperfectlyformed,this rons. Prideofplacegoestothe Roman-era findsfromtheenvi- displays someexceptional Adm Free. website orcallaheadfordetails. Open Duringexhibitionsonly;visit INSIDER TIP Arts etTraditionsPopulaires 18 (3.50€foradults). day; entryisfreeforkidsupto guides. OpenTuesdaytoSatur- reconstructions andaudio-visual history ofProvençallifethrough nographic museumchartsthe old town,thiswell-designedeth- 18th-century townhouseinthe Draguignan. Setwithinapretty Fit inatriptothe ( b 04 94470572)in , theformerhomeofAmerican Cité Episcopale Musée des Musée des b

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: dating ★★

11/1/10 2:07 PM

What to See & Do TIP The Best Theme Parks Aqualand (www.aqualand.fr), Quartier Le Capou, RN98, Fréjus (b 04 94 51 82 51), and also at Route Plan de la Tour, CD25, Ste.-Maxime (b 04 94 55 54 54 ), provides water-based fun for all. The park in Ste.-Maxime is more suitable for families with younger children. Both parks are open daily from mid-June to early September. Tickets cost 25 € for adults, 18.50€ for kids age 3–-12 and are free for kids under 3. Azur Park (b 04 94 56 48 39, www.azurpark.com), off N98, Carrefour de la Four, near St.-Tropez. As well as more than 28 attractions, there’s an 18-hole golf course, dinosaurs and a wood-fired grill restaurant. It’s open every evening from April to September; entry is free with discount passes for multiple rides from 10€. Kiddy Parc (b 04 94 57 68 93, www.kiddyparc.com), Avenue de l’Aéroport, Hyères. Go-karts, minimotos, inflatables, swimming pools and a minifarm should keep 2- to –12- year-olds happy here for an afternoon. The park is open all year with tickets for kids aged 2 years and above from 13.90€; accompanying adults go free. There’s also a funfair at nearby Magic World (b 04 94 38 51 03). Le Jardin de César et Léonie (b 04 94 45 11 43/06 86 87 82 36, www. cesar-et-leonie.fr), 721 chemin du Jas de la Paro, Le Muy. This theme park offers nature-based fun, including botanical workshops, tree-top adventures and horse or donkey treks in the heart of the Massif de Maures. Open from April to October, the theme park offers entry passes from 19.50€ for adults and 15€ for kids under 12.

models of a Roman house and Matisse and Seurat, this temple the old port of Fréjus. of 20th-century art should be on Open Tues–Sun 9:30am–12:30pm everyone’s ‘to do’ list. The best and 2–6pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, thing about it is that it allows 9:30am–12:30pm and 2–5pm mid- you to see St.-Tropez itself Oct–mid-Apr. Adm Adults 4.60€, depicted through the decades in accompanied children under 12 free. all its golden glory—thanks to Credit Cash only. painter Paul Signac, who Musée de l’Annonciade ★★ installed himself here in 1892, Place Grammont, St.-Tropez, b 04 94 the village became a honey-pot 17 84 10, www.ot-saint-tropez.com for avant-garde artists. Look out for the still life by underrated When you’ve gorged on ice and overlooked Suzanne Vala- cream from Barbarac (p. 136), don, mother of Maurice Utrillo. gazed wistfully at the super- If you don’t want to be followed yachts and fought your way around by guards, it’s best to put through the crowds, seek some toddlers in buggies. solace in the airy 16th-century Annonciade chapel. With world- Open Daily 10am–noon and 2–6pm July–Sept, Wed–Mon 10am–noon class paintings by Braque, Dufy, and 2–6pm Oct–June. Adm Adults 129

08_683361-ch05.indd 129 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 130 130 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var santondeprovence.com 45 4890/0680830034www. children. (in French)foradultsand fancy), during2-hourworkshops anything elsethattakesyour design andsculptyourown(or only placeyou’llbeableto around Provence,butthisisthe little clayfiguresonyourtravels You’ll haveseenplentyofthese 73 ruedeBausset,Fréjus, AGE7&UP L’AM Santonnière Arts &Crafts Cash only.Amenities 5€, childrenunder12free.Credit INSIDER TIP A valid for7days. sioners andfamilygroups,is for childrenaged12–18,pen- It costs4.60€foradults,3.10€ tory museumandamphitheatre. archaeology museum,localhis- to fivesitesincludingthetown’s skirts ofDraguignan,about1 You’ll findthePierredelaFéeonRouteMontferratout- and wasturnedtostone. loving oneofgreatertalent(tryexplainingthattothechildren).Hedied whereupon theyoungmanrealisedthathewascondemnedtodiefor fairy usedhermagicalpowerstohelpliftthethirdstoneintoplace, to manoeuvretwostones,theyoungmancouldn’tbudgethird.The he madeheratablefromthreehugestones.Aftertoilinglongandhard young manandacceptedhisweddingproposalontheconditionthat ments. Legendtellsthatafairy,disguisedasshepherdess,seduced by columnsthatweighmorethan20tonnesandcontainbonefrag- extraordinarily largeNeolithic(2,500–2,000 The PierredelaFée(fairystone)dolmennearDraguignanisan Fréjus Pass givesyouentry The Fairy&theFiancé

★★ b 04 93

1 ⁄ 2 km fromthecentre. com 94 579533,www.funboardcenter. Giens peninsulaisaworld- Almanarre beachonthewindy Route del’Almanarre,Hyères, AGE7&UP Funboard Center Active Families 20€. CreditCashonly. Workshop Adults25€,children7–15 Open WedandSat3–6:30pm. Credit Cashonly. vidual lessoninEnglish45€(1hour). ner’s week-longcourse,150€,indi- Open Daily9am–6pm.RatesBegin- explore thecoastenfamille. You canalsorentkayaksto long coursesforyoungandold. offers private,groupandweek- pion, thiswatersportscentre experts. Runbyaworldcham- children tolearnfromthe surfing, andtheperfectplacefor famous spotforwind-andkite- BC ) stonetablesupported

★★

b 04 11/1/10 2:07 PM What to See & Do

Hand-decorated santons

INSIDER TIP town’s best morning food mar- Set in the Massif des Maures ket—is next door. countryside near Ste. -Maxime, Open Tues–Sat 9:30am–12:30pm Les Poneys de Verderet 3–7pm (plus some Sun and Mon (b 06 83 34 87 66, www. mornings during school holidays). leverderet.ffe.com) is a great Credit MC, V. place to come horse-riding. Highly qualified instructor Valérie INSIDER TIP Lacaze offers 20-minute pony St.-Raphaël has two other good rides for tots (7€) or hour-long children’s shops. Buy toys and lessons for kids over 6 (20€). games from Au Pays des You’ll need to wear long trousers Merveilles (115 rue Jules Bar- and sturdy shoes. bier, b 04 94 95 24 66) and clothes from Du Pareil au Shopping Même (148 rue Jean Aicard, b 04 94 17 26 14). Caribou Nature ★★ 1 passage du Peyron, next to Marché Confiserie Azuréenne République in Vieille Ville, St.- b b Boulevard Koenig, Collobrières, 04 Raphäel, 04 94 40 54 28, www. 94 48 07 20, www.confiserie caribounature.com azureenne.com Filled to the gills with traditional The inland Var village of Collo- wooden toys, Caribou Nature is brières is best known for its the kind of toyshop I’d love to chestnut production: about 900 have around the corner. The last hectares of trees yield about 600 time I visited, I came back laden tonnes every October, a harvest with puzzles, mobiles and a that is celebrated with a festival. wooden train set for my kids. This little museum-shop hon- The Marché République—the ours the shiny brown chestnut in 131

08_683361-ch05.indd 131 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 132 132 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var 83 63,www.kjacques.com 51 1734 to ifyouwant to sampleaslice dow display,thoughyou’llneed tear yourselfawayfromthewin- senses—you’ll barelybeable to This tartshopisafeastforthe 33 rueJean-Jaurès,Fréjus, Maison delaTarte 3–7pm mid-Mar–Sept.CreditMC,V. Open Daily10am–12:30pmand child’s pair. pay atleast100€forthesmallest by thefashionelite.Expectto gladiator-like sandalsfavoured more attractiveselectionofthe this shopstocksabiggerand that soldlasandaletropézienne, to bethefirstshopinSt.-Tropez Although AtelierRondiniclaims 25 rueAllard,St.-Tropez, K Jacques 2–6:30pm. CreditMC,V. Open Daily9:30am–12:30pmand try outrecipestoo. glacés. Youcanshoponline,and cream and,ofcourse,asmarrons all itsstates:injam,nougat,ice pretty the city’snavalhistoryonlittletrainthatleavesfromport( Maures, whichismuchmorefunthandriving.In 20 774443 Le PetitTraindePignes trips from9pmtomidnight.Anotherlittletrain( over theBayofSt.-Tropez.InJulyandAugust,youcanenjoymoonlit you on40-minutetripstothetopofSémaphorehillforsweepingviews adults and3.50€forkids. art-concept.net/petit-train-grimaud village perché

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) or Mon 06 ). 11/1/10 2:07 PM Family-Friendly Dining TIP The Best Local Markets Fish market: Vieux Port, St.-Raphaël, every morning. Fish, food & flower market: Rue Fernand Bessy, Ste.-Maxime, every morning (except Mon during winter). Food market: Place de la Poste, St.-Aygulf, Fréjus, Tues and Sat mornings. General market: Place des Lices, St.-Tropez, Tues and Sat mornings. Organic food market: Place Vicomtesse de Noailles, Hyères, Tues, Thurs and Sat mornings. Provençal market: Place de la République, Flayosc, Mon morning.

Self-catering families can also Open Mon–Sat 8am–7pm (plus some pick up fresh pasta and sauces Sun afternoons during school holidays). Main courses 10.50€–16€, from La Boîte à Pâtes (b 04 94 children’s menu 4€–7.50€. Credit 17 37 63) next door. MC, V. Amenities

INEXPENSIVE La Crêperie du Vieux Port ★★ CREPERIE Chocolathé ★★ VALUE TEAROOM 20 cours Guilbaud, St.-Raphaël, b 04 19 rue Général de Gaulle, Fréjus, 94 19 44 88 b 04 94 83 00 71 With its contemporary choco- This local family favourite makes late-and-cream decor, Choco- the perfect pit-stop after a walk lathé is the place to go for a around the harbour. You can reasonably priced snack. It choose from more than 20 pan- opened in 2009 as a teahouse cake fillings. My daughter likes serving 26 types of tea, but the one filled with a beefburger young Parisian owner Cécile and crème fraîche. There’s no soon expanded the menu. children’s menu, but the kitchen There’s now a tasty selection will prepare small portions by of paninis, salads and croque request, or don’t mind if little monsieur, plus a hot dish of the ones share. There’s plenty of day. She even imports coffee room for buggies. from Big Train (the manufac- Open Daily noon–midnight May–Oct. turer that supplies Starbucks). Main courses 8€–17€. Credit MC, V. While Cécile busies herself in the kitchen preparing our lunch, Ste.-Maxime, St-Tropez my daughter Alexandra and I eye & Around up the glass cookie jars lined In Ste. -Maxime’s pedestrianised along the counter. Every family- old centre, you’ll find everything friendly detail is considered, you need for a quick snack. On from the baby-changing facilities Rue Paul Bert, Le Grangousier in the spacious toilets to the 4€ (b 04 94 96 54 00) sells filled kids’ menu. baguettes, quiches, pizza slices 133

08_683361-ch05.indd 133 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 134 134 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var ( Marché perie Bretonne 55 9100 Paul Signac and Michelin-starred Paul SignacandMichelin-starred and paella,while Résidence delaPinède 53 com spare ribs. from curedhamtoquailand sive selectionofspit-roastmeats marché couvert,offersanimpres- Montée del’Epagneulnearthe paninis from good snackvans.Asyoueat Place desLiceshasacoupleof with kids.Therestaurant-lined tral providesaneasypit-stop café the ubiquitouspeople-watching St.-Tropez’s QuaiJeanJaurèsis com ces Alfred ice creamsfromestablished celebrity-starred night awayfromthekidsinclude Gastronomic restaurantsfora playing onthemerry-go-round. playing pétanqueandyourkids ing Plagedela Bouillabaisse. b ) innearbyQuaiFrédéricMis-

04 94566800 Overlooking theyachtsalong lots ofothertowns(see Blanc or36rueGeorgesClémenceauinSt.-Tropez,plusbranches buy thecakesfromshopsofsamenameat9boulevardLouis and cream cake.Hersuggestiontonameitafterthevillagewasaccepted Bardot developedatasteforlocalbakerAlexandreMicka’sPolish Vadim) duringthefilmingof good? AswellasfallinginlovewithSt.-Tropez(anddirectorRoger Who’d havethoughtthatspongefilledwithcustardcouldtasteso , menus from 89€) on Avenue , menusfrom89€)onAvenue , menusfrom95€)overlook- Sénéquier la tartetropéziennewasborn.Therecipeistop-secret,butyoucan , ( www.residencepinede. And GodCreated.aHeavenlyTart b , youcanwatchlocals

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97 4469,www.lecafe.fr (beef fondue),homardduvivier include fonduebourguignonne from differentFrenchregions middle oftheroom.Specialities from alargetreetrunkinthe red cushions,whilemenushang chairs arecoveredinbeigeand Maxime locals.Comfortable home fromformanySte.- business, thisrestaurantislikea side. Initsthirdgenerationof Step intotheProvençalcountry- b 8 placeVictorHugo,Ste.-Maxime, La Réserve shoulder-to-shoulder, deciding shoulder-to-shoulder, deciding town—but witheveryonepacked cafés andrestaurantsinthislittle There isanamazingnumberof Place desLices,St.-Tropez, Le Café 12€. CreditAE,MC,V. Menus from21€,children’smenu and 7–10pmdaily.Maincourses 7–10:30pm daily,Oct–Aprnoon–2pm Open May–Septnoon–2pmand Junior Menuisavailable. (fish andseafoodstew).Akids’ (fresh lobster)andbouillabaisse MODERATE 04 94961832

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Two of the most beautiful places to stay in the inland Var are Chez Bruno (b 04 94 85 93 93, www.restaurantbruno.com, double rooms from 100€, truffle menus from 65€) in Lorgues and Alain Ducasse’s Hostel- lerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle (b 04 98 05 14 14, www.abbaye-celle. com, double rooms from 250€) in La Celle. Both boast well-renowned chefs: Bruno is the Var’s king of truffles, while Ducasse’s Michelin-starred cuisine (with menus from 40€) is famous across France and beyond. The posh cuisine means that these places work best for older families, although both places offer excellent children’s menus on request. Dining on the shaded, outdoor terrace of either restaurant is guaranteed to be a holiday highlight. While the Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle has a lovely pool and organic vegetable garden to explore, Chez Bruno is simply a restaurant with rooms.

where to go isn’t easy. A friend a recent idyllic lunch at this fam- told me, ‘you can take anyone to ily-run restaurant. The à la carte Le Café’, and he was right. You’ll menu doesn’t come cheap, but find all ages and nationalities in portions are generous and you can this traditional yet trendy place always opt for the three-course on the main square, and children menu at 25€ instead. There’s also have plenty of room to run a kids’ menu at 9.50€. While around once the market stall- adults savour their cassolette du holders have packed up—so long pêcheur (seafood casserole in puff as they don’t disturb the pétanque pastry) on the shaded terrace, kids matches. The Mediterranean can run around the village square menu includes pasta, grilled from where Grimaud’s little tour- meat, fish and salads. An 18€ ist train departs. lunch menu (two courses plus Open Apr–Sept daily noon–2:30pm coffee) is good value, and there’s and 7–10:30pm, Oct–Mar phone to a 12€ kids’ menu. Don’t miss the check as opening hours vary. Main tarte tropézienne for dessert. courses 19€–35€, menus from 25€, kids’ menu 9.50€. Credit MC, V. Open Daily noon–2:30pm and 7–11pm. Main courses 12€–34€, kids’ menu INEXPENSIVE up to 10 years 12 €. Credit MC, V. Brasserie Tropézienne ★ VALUE Le Café de France ★★ 10 rue Henri Seillon, St.-Tropez. b 04 Place Neuve, Grimaud, b 04 94 43 20 05 94 97 01 65 The best thing about Le Café de Behind the Capitainerie du Port, France is its location in the heart Brasserie Tropézienne is one of of the Var’s best-looking village. the secret addresses of St.-Tropez. My family and I were serenaded Locals have been coming to by a Spanish guitar player during this all-day brasserie, run by 135

08_683361-ch05.indd 135 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 136 136 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var specialises inregionalbiscuits. 7:30–10:30pm, daily inJulyandAug. Open Wed–Sun12:30–2:30pmand much roomforrunningaround. packed withtablessothere’s not for 11€.Thesquareissmalland own two-coursegourmetmenu dren under12evenhavetheir mel, allofthemtop-notch.Chil- and dessertssuchascrèmecara- favourites, includingfish,grills You’ll findalltheregional but you’lleatwellanytime. lights flickerinthegentlebreeze, It’s prettiestatnight,whentea serves thetastiestfoodinHyères. Templar tower,thisrestaurant old town,nexttothe12th-century Situated inthecrumbling,cobbled 88 38,www.bistrotdemarius.fr 1 placeMassillon,Hyères, Le BistrotdeMarius Toulon &Hyères MC, V. Main courses5€–19.50€.CreditAE, 7am–1:30am, Oct–June7am–4pm. Open DailyJuly–Aug7am–3am,Sept cheaper thanbottledwaterat5€. jugs ofwinestartingat4.50€are and croquemadame.Interestingly, simple snackssuchasomelettes steaks, salads,pasta,pizzasand The no-nonsensemenuincludes Alsace-born Pascal,for17years. 94 652841 Barbarac late andblackcherry(Amarena). for deliciousicecream:amongtheflavourswerecommendarewhitechoco- MODERATE TIP You’ll findlip-smackinglavender,figandplumsorbetsat TheBestIceCream ( ) at10ruedeLimansin b

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FIND ) at2rueGénéralAllardinSt-Tropezis Hyères MC, V. 11€, children’smenu8.20€.Credit 8pm–midnight. Maincoursesfrom Open Tues–Sunnoon–2:30pmand TV screenformatch-watching. menu at8.20€,there’salarge well asatwo-coursechildren’s surrounding theharbour.As served intheseaofrestaurants from thesameyProvençalmenus here providesarefreshingchange including tapasandgrills,served The good-valueCubanfood, Gavine, Hyères, 9 avenueDocteurRobin,PortLa Mojito Café MC, V. from 19€,kids’menu11€.Credit Main courses9.50€–44€,menus Lou SanBastian should headtoreasonablypriced Mons, wheregourmandfamilies One suchpanoramicvillageis chock-a-block withrestaurants. nic hilltopvillagesthatare The inlandVarboastsphotoge- The InlandVar 71 where you’llbe wellfedfor20€ jaw-dropping viewsisTourtour, tasty Provençalcuisine. its geranium-strewnterraceand INEXPENSIVE

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11/1/10 2:07 PM 04 Family-Friendly Accommodation at La Farigoulette (b 04 94 70 57 outskirts of Fréjus. Port Fréjus 37) on Place des Ormeaux. For a seafront is a convenient spot for posh dinner without the kids, La watersports, while Port Grimaud Table (b 04 94 70 55 95, www.la has a good selection of holiday table.fr) is one of the Var’s best- villages. kept gastronomic secrets. If you’re staying near Dragu- INEXPENSIVE igan, head out to Flayosc, where Hôtel L’Aréna ★ you can glimpse bustling village 139–145 rue du Général de Gaulle, life while taking your pick from Fréjus, b 04 94 17 09 40, www. Provençal to Vietnamese cuisine. hotel-frejus-arena.com With their excellent French menus (from 24€) and Provençal On the doorstep of the old centre, decor, L’Oustaou (b 04 94 70 42 this friendly hotel provides a 69) on Place Joseph Brémond handy base for a few days of and La Fleur de Thym (b 04 94 exploring Fréjus on foot. Deco- 50 31 53, menus from 29€) on Bou- rated throughout in a Provençal levard Jean Moulin are class acts. ochre palate, the double rooms However, kids may prefer the are small, so opt for larger triples table football and children’s or quads (with one double bed menus at snack bars around and a twin-bedded mezzanine for Place de la République. kids). In summer, the excellent table d’hôte dinner is served on a terracotta-paved terrace. It’s next FAMILY-FRIENDLY to the train station, but bedrooms are well soundproofed and back- ACCOMMODATION ground noise by the enclosed pool is muted by leafy palms. Fréjus & St.-Raphaël Rooms 39. Rates Doubles from 85€, Some of the most desirable triples from 100€, quads from 125€. neighbourhoods around the twin Cot free, extra bed 25€. Closed November. Credit AE, MC, V. seaside resorts include the Amenities In room Valescure pine forest near St.- Raphaël, and St.-Aygulf on the

Picnics with a View

If you’re in Hyères, buy yummy sandwiches and cakes from Pâtis- serie Blonna (b 04 94 35 35 92) on Place Georges Clemenceau before getting the boat over to Porquerolles—a picnic on the Plage d’Argent (p. 125) is much better than an expensive, mediocre meal in one of the island’s few restaurants. In Ste. -Maxime, head for the grassy tip of the Pointe des Sardinaux, a pine forest with Roman fishpond remains, armed with supplies from Claude Pierrugues (b 04 94 49 17 71) in Avenue de Lattre de Tasigny. 137

08_683361-ch05.indd 137 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 138 138 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var nearby Ste.-Maxime,twinhotels and aheatedsaltwaterpool.In friendly, withspaciousrooms tique hotelissurprisinglyfamily- of Interiors,thisnine-room for adouble-pagespreadinWorld well-heeled families.Lookingfit doubles from200€)isperfectfor ( bles from75€)and www.hotel-la-croisette.com Les Santolines Hôtel LeMouillage Families intheknowheadto Around Ste-Maxime, St-Tropez& with thestandardquadruple family suites(nottobeconfused longer stayarethetwo-room options. Thebestroomsfora 80€) arereasonablypriced 50 the best-value chain hotelin Croisette in2010).Meanwhile, ments foruptoseven(newat La tioning) andself-cateringapart- rooms thatdon’thaveair-condi- door, often overpricedhotels.Next a smartexceptiontoSt.-Tropez’s INSIDER TIP b Colombier kids under3. kids aged3–5andarefreefor for kidsaged6–12,from160€ from 320€foradults,204€ week-long staysperpersoncost ing schoolholidays.Full-board, and akids’club(4–12years)dur- vençal-style, self-cateringgîtes This holidayvillagehas24Pro- good optionforabudgetbreak. www.vacances-ulvf.com) isa Fréjus, Surrounded bypineforestnear ,

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Family-Friendly Accommodation AE, MC, V. Amenities haven for watersports enthusi- In room asts—although there’s no swimming pool, you’re surrounded by MODERATE Blue Flag beaches, including the Hôtel Le Mouillage FIND VALUE famous Almanarre (p. 130) just Port du Pilon, St.-Tropez, b 04 94 97 800m away. The site has well- 53 19, www.hotelmouillage.fr equipped chalets and mobile homes that sleep four to six, as Overlooking Bouillabaisse well as pitches for those with beach, this remarkably priced their own tourers or tents. hotel is a 5-minute walk from There’s more than enough to shops and a 10-minute drive occupy children, including an from celebrity-studded Pam- on-site playground, boat trips to pelonne. Charming owners Jean- nearby Porquerolles (p. 126) or a Claude and Pascale Pepino have visit to Kiddy Parc (p. 129). a flair for interior design: rooms with private terraces are decorated Rooms 150 chalets and mobile homes. Rates 238€–1,022€ per week. Credit around Southern themes. Trick- MC, V. Amenities ling fountains lull you beside the pool and on the verdant terrace INSIDER TIP with its rattan sofas. Free on-site Families who’d prefer a campsite parking is another bonus. with a swimming pool should check out Camping Interna- Rooms 10. Rates Doubles from tional (b 04 94 58 90 16, www. 100€, triples from 130€. Cot 20€, international-giens.com) as a extra bed 40€. Closed mid-Nov–mid- Dec and Jan. Credit AE, MC, V. nearby alternative to Camping La Amenities In room Presqu’île de Giens. A four-person mobile home costs from 335€ per week. Toulon & Hyères Hôtel Little Palace ★ FIND The outskirts around Hyères are b very built-up, so the best option 6 rue Berthelot, Toulon, 04 94 92 26 62, www.hotel-littlepalace.com for accommodation is the Giens peninsula—a world-famous If you need to stay in Toulon spot for wind- and kite-surfing: overnight or for a few days, you sporty kids will be in paradise. won’t find a better place than this. The hotel was recently INEXPENSIVE bought and beautifully made Camping La Presqu’île de over in the Provençal style by a Giens ★★ retired teacher from Brittany, 153 route de la Madrague, Giens, whose daughter and son-in-law Hyères, b 04 94 58 22 86, www. own the Grand Hotel Dauphiné camping-giens.com just opposite. As well as triple rooms for families, there is a new With its spectacular location on self-catering apartment with the tip of the Giens peninsula, fully equipped kitchen next door. this three-star campsite is a 139

08_683361-ch05.indd 139 11/1/10 2:07 PM 08_683361-ch05.indd 140 140 5 The Western Côte & Inland Var it’s agoodplacetostopover if entertained forlongstays,but not enoughtokeepchildren but pricesreflectthat.There’s rooms aren’tair-conditioned, deur ofthesurroundingsand ings don’tliveuptothegran- converted intoahotel.Furnish- www.hotelfp-saintmaximin.com monuments, this One ofProvence’sfinestGothic Ste.-Baume, Place JeanSalusse,St.-Maximin-La- VALUE Hôtel LeCouventRoyal The InlandVar Credit MC,V.Amenities apartment from120€.Breakfast9€. triples from72€,suites82€, Rooms 23.RatesDoublesfrom49€, but tioning, andtherearefourfloors only someroomshaveair-condi- Therearesomedownsides: former monastery MODERATE

is onanostrichfarm.MaximAutruches( day afternoons(2to6pm).Anotherunusualwayspendyourholiday omelettes. basic gîte from470€perweek)nearSte.-Maximehasfourfullyequippedbut staying nearby,youcancometo everything frombee-keepingtorecyclingandbutter-making.Ifyou’re who speaksomeFrenchwillbeabletoenjoymidweekworkshopson on theRD554.Afive-person in aneco-gîteat A wonderfulwaytomakethemostofVarcountrysideisstay debeaugensiers.com no lift gîtes withaswimmingpoolandtenniscourt.Justthinkofthe . b 04 94865566, 12th-century Beaugensiers Farm hasbeen Down ontheFarm ), about20minutesnorthofToulonandHyères Inroom

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3 8 2 y Le Roulet N7 D572 D973 MarseilleMarseille A8 VitrollesVitrolles D9 E80 St.-Cannat St.-Cannat 0 10km 0 D543 Eguilles Eguilles les-Vallonsles-Vallons Septemes- 6 9 Pertuis Pertuis D6 Castellet Castellet D7 D559 A50 10 Vaugines Vaugines thisregionis Cadolive Cadolive Cassis Cassis D908 Aix-en-Provence Gardanne Gardanne 11 4 A51 E712 Ansouis Ansouis Allauch Allauch 12 Venelles Venelles 5 10 mi Villelaure Villelaure A52 Aubagne La Ciotat Aubagne La Ciotat A50 11/1/10 2:08 PM Riccioti-designed Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisa- Visitor Information tions—along with a new tramway and rail terminal. Property investors are beginning to realise that Marseille could be the next Barcelona. This reasonably priced corner of the festive South will appeal most to art-loving families on a budget, and is ideal for year-round city- and-seaside breaks. You can gaze at the white-cliffed Calanques in Cassis; follow in the footsteps of Cézanne in Aix; taste Med-caught fish in harbourside settings in Marseille; and learn about France’s military history in Salon-de-Provence. Wherever you are, you will get the chance to glimpse the soul of Provence.

VISITOR By Train You can get to Mar- INFORMATION seille or Aix from London in under 7 hours, taking a Eurostar from St. Pancras, then changing All the cities, towns and villages in in Lille or Paris. Tickets are avail- this chapter are in the Bouches able from Rail Europe (p. 32); du Rhône département. For gen- standard fares start at £109 return eral information on the area, see for adults and £94 for children 4 www.visitprovence.com. Another and over. useful resource for parents exploring Marseille and Aix-en-Provence By Car See p. 34. is http://marseille.citizenkid.com, which has information (in French) on family-friendly events, shop- Orientation ping and childcare. The A54 from Salon joins the A7 and then the A8 to reach Aix. Getting There Then the A51, which becomes the A7, takes you from Aix to By Air Marseille-Provence Marseille, and vice versa. Airport (www.mrsairport.com) is The D559 runs inland from within 20 minutes’ drive of both Marseille to Cassis, and the Marseille and Aix-en-Provence. D568 goes from Marseille to the France’s third-largest airport is Côte Bleue, where you can take well served by airlines with con- the D5 towards Carry-le-Rouet necting flights from most UK and Sausset-les-Pins, along the airports. There are also direct coast. flights with British Airways from London Gatwick, with easyJet from London Gatwick and Bris- Getting Around tol, and with Ryanair from Dub- If you’re exploring the area by lin and London Stansted. Flights public transport, it’s best to base from London take just under yourself in Marseille or Aix. 2 hours. Buses are fairly frequent; you can 143

09_683361-ch06.indd 143 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 144 144 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence PACA) region can be found at PACA) regioncanbefoundat Provence AlpesCôted’Azur(aka Train informationforthe station inpersontogetdetails. generally bettertovisitthebus com www.mrsairport.com. www.ter-sncf.com (in 30minutesfor7.80€). for 3.70€)andAix-en-Provence to Salon-de-Provence(in1hour buses runfromMarseilleAirport firms atMarseilleairport,see peruse timetablesat INSIDER TIP aux Huiles. between HôteldeVilleandPlace 8am to12:30pmand15pm This freeservicerunsdailyfrom Vieux PortinMarseilleisbyferry. A greatshortcutacrossthe emergency service.HôpitaldelaTimone( ap-hm.fr emergencies. 114 ruedeRome. seille: HSBCislocatedat11bisrueSt.Ferréol,andBarclays112– including 122ruedeRome. Aix-en-Provence; therearealmost400pharmaciesalloverMarseille 9:30am tomidnight,Sunday1pmmidnight. Marseille at50ruedeRomeand1coursJeanBallard. Shopping: Post Offices: Pharmacies: ( 11am tomidnightandSunday210pm.Marseille’sNetProcess Aix-en-Provence, isopenMondaytoFriday8am8pm,Saturday Internet Cafés: 42 339028 Hospitals: Banks: b (in French), although it’s (inFrench),althoughit’s

04 91347571 Fast Facts:Aix-en-Provence&Marseille InAix-en-Provence:HSBC,10placeJeanned’Arc.Mar- ), 264rueSt.PierreinMarseille,specialisespediatric InAix-en-Provence,CentreHospitalierduPaysd’Aix( , Seep. 159and,formarkets,p. 160. www.ch-aix.fr . For car-hire . Forcar-hire TherearethreepharmaciesalongCoursMirabeauin InPlacedel’HôtelVille,Aix-en-Provence;andin www.lepilote. LoGiDrake( Shuttle Shuttle ), 8rueduBosquet,isopenMondaytoSaturday ) onAvenuedesTamarishasa24-hour b

04 92344788 est Eco-museum(p. 152). nean treesandplantsattheFor- 1 Attractions Children’s Top10 WHAT TOSEE&DO 6 5 4 3 2 calissons inAix(p. 146). boat oronfoot(p. 149). (p. 151). the animalsatZooLaBarben OK Corralthemepark(p. 155). the AtelierCézanne(p. 153).

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04 913800 ), at36placeMiollisin yourinnerartistat , ifnottalking,like almond-flavoured aboutMediterra- inatepeeatthe theCalanquesby , www. b

04 11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do 7 Making a clean getaway to children don’t speak French, the soap museum in Salon-de- they might well get something Provence (p. 163). out of the performance, which lasts an hour. They’re often fol- 8 Visiting the Côte Bleue by lowed by workshops on cos- train (p. 156). tume, make-up, characters and 9 Swimming with exotic fish improvisation (in French). on an accompanied dive Open Daily 9am–midday and 1:30– (p. 157). 6pm. Shows start 2:30pm Adm Show 8€, workshop 8€. Credit 0 Feasting on sardines at the Cash only. Fête de St.-Pierre in Cassis or Martigues (p. 146). Les Rencontres du 9ème Art ALL AGES Child-friendly Events & Aix, b 04 42 16 11 61, www.bd-aix. Entertainment com Badaboum Théâtre The French love their comic ★★ FIND AGE 3 & UP strips, and this annual festival 16 quai de Rive-Neuve, Marseille, celebrates cartoons past and b 04 91 54 40 71, www.badaboum- present in venues around town. theatre.com There are free exhibitions by This little theatre on the Vieux renowned BD (bande dessinée) Port puts on plays that are usu- artists, a competition, and work- ally based on familiar stories shops (in French) for children such as Little Red Riding Hood or over 8. Snow White, so even if your Mar and Apr. Adm Free.

English-language Cinemas

For English-language films, look for ‘VO’ (version originale) indicated after film listings. For current listings, see the cinema’s own website or go to www.angloinfo.com. Cinéma 3 Casino, 11 cours Forbin, Gardanne b 08 92 68 03 42. Espace Fernandel, Avenue Aristide Briand, Carry-le-Rouet b 04 42 30 53 18/08 92 68 91 23. Le César, 4 place Castellane, Marseille b 04 91 53 27 82. Le Mazarin, 6 rue Laroque, Aix b 08 92 68 72 70, www.lescinemas aixois.com. Le Renoir, 24 cours Mirabeau, Aix b 08 92 68 72 70, www.lescinemas aixois.com. Les Arcades, Place Gambetta, Salon-de-Provence b 08 92 89 28 92. Variétés, 37 rue Vincent-Scotto, Marseille b 08 92 89 28 92.

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09_683361-ch06.indd 145 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 146 146 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence barbecue. singing andahugesardine usually involvesboat-jousting, Then thepartyingbegins:this lowed byablessingoftheirboats. with amassforthefishermenfol- celebrate theirpatron,St.Peter, villages acrosstheMediterranean www.aixenprovencetourism.com martigues-tourisme.com Martigues, ot-cassis.com Paul Cézanne home ofpost-Impressionistartist best knownasthebirthplaceand Romans, thisuniversitytownis bourgeois. Foundedbythe earthy, Aixisshabby-chicand Where Marseilleisscruffyand Tourist office: Aix-en-Provence Cities, Towns&Resorts Last weekendinJune.AdmFree. Every yearinlate Cassis, ★★ Fête deSt.-Pierre centre, the green spaces)andafuturisticarts 40 publicfountains(yetfew 17th-century mansions.Itboasts well asforitscafésocietyand your childrenareinspiredwhilewalking the Marseille’s light andlandscapeforms.Visit ideally afteryou’veseentheoriginalsin few kilometreswestofMarseille,in the19thcenturybecauseofitsunique flocked tothelittlefishingport of Artists includingGeorgesBraque,RaoulDufyandPaulCézanne

FIND b 08 92259892,www.

b ALLAGES Fondation Vasarely Fondation Vasarely 04 423110,www. b Musée Cantini Painters’ Paradise—L’Estaque 04 42161161, (1839–1906), as (1839–1906),as June

★★★

, fishing , fishing (p. 154); takepaperandpensin caseyouor L’Estaque www.ot-cassis.fr man WinstonChurchilland The British,amongthemstates- Tourist office: Cassis wine andfreshlycaughtfish offering excellentlocalwhite difficult toseewhy:aswell flocked toCassis,andit’snot writer VirginiaWoolf,havelong baths. Daypackagesstartat90€. on thesiteofancientRoman the almond-flavoured mini-fairground. Childrenlove Christmas marketstallsanda the CoursMirabeauislinedwith fect forChristmasbreaks,when an all-yeardestinationsoisper- ( sextius.com ( sweets andthe me-time inthe mums anddadscanenjoysome from Fouques(p. 159),while INSIDER TIP b www.fondationvasarely.fr dation dealsforfamilies. tius, aswellgoodaccommo- the neighbouringThermesSex- offers specialspapackagesat 42 991500,www.aquabella.fr) Etuves, Aix-en-Provence, Hôtel Aquabella

04 42238182,www.thermes- ‘Circuit des

( ★★ www.estaque.com ), a b 04 42016783, santons hi-tech spa Thermes Sextius Peintres’. (2ruedes calissons figurines figurines ). Aix is ). Aixis b 04 built built ), a 11/1/10 2:08 PM

AIX-EN-PROVENCE What to See & Do

Attractions ITALY 1 Atelier Paul Cézanne 1 FRANCE Bd. Aristide-Briande Place Cathédrale Dining Avignon Bellegarde St.-Sauveur Av. de la Chez Jo 2 Nice Musée des Aix-en- Ste.-Victoire La Bastide du Cours 3 Provence Bd. Jean-Juarès Tapisseries Rue G. de SabortaPlace des Jardin Rue M Martyrs de Bd. St.St.-Louis AccommodationPublique

Rue Mignet Av. des ThermesThermes la Résistance M L’Atrium d’Anaïte 5 athatheron Migne -Louis Hôtel Cézanne 4 Sextius er Rue du Bon PasteurMusée du on

Vieil Aix t e P.-Bert RuRue P.-Bert Hôtel s Place des Ru ier Cardeurs de Ville e du Maréchadu Marécl-Foch Tour de Cours des Mét Arts Rue de la La Madeleine et Métiers l’Horloge talis Rue des rdeliers Ca Rue PorPortalis BBd.d. CarnotC

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Cours Sextius RuRuee Breuys Place Naturelle Rue LLacé Place St.-Honoré Miollis St.-Esprit Opéra l’Opéra Rue de l’Opéra RuRue V.-V.-LeyLeydefdef Place Rue Espariat 3 Forbin Av Place 2 Rue Joffre . Bonaparte RRue de 4 Septembre nap Jeanne d’Arc eau u RuRue d’Italia ab e a e d’Itali rte Cours MirMirabea d e

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served up in the harbourside res- galleries, potters’ workshops and taurants, it’s on the doorstep of upmarket clothes shops. Other the imposing Calanques draws are the daily fish market, (p. 149). This small and family- the views from Cap Canaille and friendly resort is busy through- the boat trips along the coast. out the summer with events such as the Fête de St.-Pierre INSIDER TIP If you’re planning a day trip to Cas- (p. 146) in June and the wine sis in summer, it’s best to catch harvest festival in September. A the bus here: parking is scarce and walk around the protected old the nearest train station is 3km town will give you plenty of away. You can reach Cassis from 1 ideas for presents—the higgledy- Aix within 1 ⁄4 hours and from piggledy streets are lined with art Marseille within 45 minutes. 147

09_683361-ch06.indd 147 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 148 148 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence www.marseille-tourisme.com Marseille Harbour and itsrichculturallife.Kids in thediversityofitsrestaurants centuries. Thisismostevident has welcomedimmigrantsfor years ago,France’soldestcity FoundedbytheGreeks2,600 of beach-dottedcoastline. and gardens,orrelaxalong57km stroll around100sqkmofparks from morethan20museums, old port.Youcantakeyourpick trip—particularly tothepretty worth anovernightstayoraday family holiday,butit’scertainly choose thiscityasthebasefora by ‘OM’(p. 150).Youmightnot following aninevitablehomewin chanting blueseaoffootballfans multicultural marketstothe city buzzeswithlife,fromits tion putyouoff.France’ssecond Don’t letMarseille’sscaryreputa- Tourist office: Marseille

★★ b 04 91138900, www.visitsalondeprovence.com of LaCrauandgenteelAix, Halfway betweentheplain Tourist office: Salon-de-Provence stantly evolving:thecurrent (p. 156). Bestofall,it’scon- (p. 145) oritsartisticedgeatthe Euroméditerranée Préau desAccoules scene atthe can enjoyitsthrivingtheatre vibrant city’sfutureforgood. (p. 142) issettochangethis INSIDER TIP tourism.com). Canebière (www.marseille from thetouristofficeat1La tram, metroandbus)for20€ can buyadaycitypass(validfor 2012. Ticketscost1.50€oryou way—a thirdlineisplannedfor Hop ontoMarseille’snewtram- Badaboum Théâtre b 04 90562760, project museum

★★ 11/1/10 2:08 PM

MARSEILLE What to See & Do

c ele 0 1/8 mi eedd Church Bd. des Dames Place Jules- -N h..- Gare . C Information Guesde BBdd 0 125 m St.-Charles M Metro Station Porte

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tte Bassin eette uet La Charité Rue de la Républi de la Grande e s Tour Rue Nationale Joliette Cathédrale obert-Schuman R l Rue des Dominicains a Rép Bd.B Dugommi Allées L. -Gambetta

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p QuaQuai des Belge s urent e 4 la Marine RueBd. G Rue Loogg Ville E de la La RRueue du Port des 3 QQuaiuai du Po i d bière St.-St.-Laurent ne aribaldi Mages Musée es La CaCanebière Rue d’Aubagned’Aubagne Fort des Dock VIEUX-PORT M Belg Rue Vacon Romains e St.-Jean s TuTunnel St.-L Saëns r nne Vieux Port St.- stie Rue St.-Saëns l Grand Rue MousMouRue de Rometier St.-L Théâtre avso Rue StSt. Parc du aurenta ve Neuve R de Rome urent de Ri A.-Thiars u e François-D Pharo e Breteuil u Musée . Quai de Rive NeuveRue A.-Thiars RRue François-Davso --Ferré Fort Fer 7 Cantini St.-Nicolas Théâtre de ré e atherin rignan 5 ol la Criée te.-C Rue GrignanG Bd. Charles-Livon ve S eu Palais de rand ue N g R ue MontgrandMont ainte ESTRANQIN- Justice R Place de Fort Place Rue SainteS PRÉFECTURE M la Préfecture d’Entrecasteaux St.-Victor Rue Para

a Corse t P Abbaye BdBd.. ddee lla Corse re-Puge ara Préfecture CoCoursurs Pierierre-Puget St.-Victor Jardin Puget dised rse 8 9 ise 6 la Co AAv.v. de la Corse Attractions Dining ITALY Château d’If 1 La Crêpe au Carré 7 Musée Cantini 5 Le Café des Epices 3 FRANCE Naturoscope 9 Le Miramar 4 Avignon Parc Borély 8 Nice Préau des Accoules 2 Accommodation Marseille Hôtel Edmond Rostand 6

Salon-de-Provence is a quiet museum (p. 155), and the Provençal town. Best known for Musée du Savon Marius Fabre being the home of soothsayer (p. 155) are also worth a look. Nostradamus (p. 154) until his death in 1566, it’s a convenient Natural Wonders & summertime stopover for fami- Spectacular Views lies heading into the Vaucluse ★★ ALL AGES and beyond. Make sure you fit Calanques in a visit to the glorious castle b 04 91 13 89 00, www.marseille- and zoo at Zoo La Barben tourisme.com (p. 151). The Château de These striking Mediterranean l’Empéri and the Musée de fjords stretching along 20km of l’Empéri, its impressive military coastline between Marseille and 149

09_683361-ch06.indd 149 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 150 150 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence evolution.com beaches, manyonlyaccessibleby limestone rockstoleavesmall quoise water,cuttingintothe Cassis soarupfromthetur- wildfires). August toreducetheriskof (paths areoff-limitsinJulyand the footpathsforbird’s-eyeviews be rough),oryoucanhikealong and Cassis(beware:theseacan varying durationfromMarseille There aredailyboattripsof grine falconorgreathornedowl. also spotaBonelli’seagle,pere- that areprotected.Youmight species ofplants,including15 here, therearemorethan900 sea. Althoughthereislittlesoil Bowling delaValentine Make themostofarainydayinMarseillewithtriptobowling alley: have agoat and bar.Meanwhile,kidsover9 years(oraccompaniedkidsover7years)can route delaSablièrehas28alleys includingshorteronesforkids,billiardstables TIP at 69rueParadis( ingly smart then headbacktotheVieuxPortforsomesustenanceatsurpris- ( soap andpastis)— This isthesloganofMarseille’smostfamousexport(apartfrom tona andFabienBarthez.Theeasiestplacetobuyticketsisfrom you gointhispassionatecity.FamouspastplayersincludeEricCan- each, andtheChampionsLeagueonce, cessful clubs,havingwontheFrenchLigue1andCup10times Marseille tourism, home, the www.om.net ForaRainyDay Droit auBut(StraightfortheGoal) Lasergame Evolution ) at280boulevardMireilleLauze. Stade Vélodrome Brasserie del’OM ), asitiscommonlyknown.OneofFrance’smostsuc- www.fnac.com b Olympique deMarseille

04 91138903 ( b

04 91357364 , for6€(freekidsunder5;contact ( b ). Youcantakeatouroftheclub’s

( 04 913380 b www.aixenprovencetourism.com back ontoD56towardsMeryreuiland D56 toPeynierandGardanneviaD6, Tholonet andSt.-Antonin,thenon D17 fromAix-en-ProvencetoLe ★★ Montagne Ste.-Victoire Route Cézannetothe tion for many of Paul Cézanne’s tion formanyofPaulCézanne’s An Aixlandmarkandtheinspira- then backtoAix, , INSIDER TIP

www.marseille-tourism.com 04 91267975 Sormiou. nearby Callelongue,Morgiouand from Marseille;busesstopat can reachtheCalanquesbybus If youdon’tfancyaboattrip, l’OMisevidenteverywhere

ALLAGES , www.bowlingstar.fr footballcluborl’OM ). b , 04 42161161, www.lasergame- FNAC

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11/1/10 2:08 PM

What to See & Do TIP The Best Beaches Le Grand Large, Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, Cassis (b 04 42 01 81 00, www.cassis-grand-large.com). This private sandy beach a stone’s throw from Cassis harbour has loungers, parasols and a restaurant. Plage du Verdon, La Couronne. This pretty Blue Flag beach is one of the best on the Côte Bleue for families, and has a car park. Plages du Prado-Borély, Avenue Pierre Mendès-France, Marseille, near Parc Borély. This large stretch of reclaimed land offers plentiful beach activities including football, play areas and even a skate park.

post-Impressionist artworks, the featured landscapes such as the 1,000m Montagne Ste.-Victoire Pont de Bayeux (near Meyreuil) is surrounded by historic sites and then Pont des Trois Sautets. and villages. On the drive around Then return to Aix along the A8. the mountain, your first stop It’s best to allow at least half a should be Le Tholonet, with day for this driving tour. spectacular views of the peak and a Cézanne-immortalised château. Animal Park From here carry on to St.-Anto- Zoo La Barben ★★★ ALL AGES nin, where the little museum at the Maison Ste.-Victoire (b 04 42 Route du Château, La Barben, 6km east of Salon-de-Provence on D572, 66 84 40) provides information b 04 90 55 19 12, www.zoolabarben. about the area and offers guided com walks. After the little village of Puyloubier, make your way south With more than 600 animals across the River Arc towards Pey- from all five continents, there’s nier and then west towards the something to interest all the town of Gardanne, itself often family at this 33-hectare hill site. painted by Cézanne. From there, The zoo is active in international head north towards famously conservation programmes and

Young giraffe at Zoo La Barben

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09_683361-ch06.indd 151 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 152 152 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence chateaudelabarben.fr Barben to hostchildren’sentertainment. open until8:30pmonMondays July andAugust,thezoostays institut-foret.com afternoon isatthe A funwayforbuddingastrologiststopassaWednesday orSaturday Provence leantooneside.As ing facts,whysometreesin can learn,amongotherfascinat- At theForestEco-museumyou on CD7, minutes southofAix-en-Provence Chemin deRoman,Gardanne,15 ★★ Ecomusée delaFôret & Gardens Natural Reserves,Parks ties Minitrain 1€.CreditMC,V.Ameni- Jan. Adm14€,children3–128€. June; daily10am–5:30pmDecand daily 10am–6pmOct–NovandFeb– (until 8:30pmMonJulyandAug); Open Daily9:30am–7pmJuly–Sept Le 7eRestaurant zoo andchâteauwithlunchat mend acombineddaytriptothe workshops areheld.I’drecom- designed labyrinthwherekids’ daughter, withitsLeNôtre- the ‘princesscastle’bymy walk awayisthe from laboratories.A5-minute houses manyanimalsrescued Milky Way. darkened domeoftheuniverse; mydaughterAlexandraparticularlylikedthe planetary system(someexperts speaksomeEnglish),you’llbetakenintothe planetarium.fr TIP

GREEN

b ( LookSkywards b 04 42514100,www.

04 90552541 ALLAGES

) inAix-en-Provence’sParcSt.-Mitre. Afterashorttalkonthe

Château La (p. 163).In Planétarium Peiresc ), dubbed ,

www. in the adjacent Hippodrome. in theadjacentHippodrome. nabe tipsterscanwatchtheraces dens, whilehorseloversorwan- like thebotanicalandrosegar- pedalos. Gardenenthusiastswill around theboatinglakeon prams andforkidstopaddle place foryoungmumstopush the Pradobeach.It’sperfect château covers54hectaresnear This prettyparkcompletewith Avenue duParcBorély,Marseille Parc Borély MC, V.Amenities 5.50€, children5–153.20€.Credit 1–5:45pm mid-Sept–June.Adm 6:45pm July–Aug;9am–12:30pmand Open Sun–Fri9am–1pmand1:30– children’s foodonrequest. courtyard restaurantthatoffers of picnicspotsbutalsoagood uneven ground.Thereareplenty come across.Watchoutforthe about theplantsandtreesyou in English)containingaquiz accompanying booklet(available a 1kmforesttrail,withan terranean floraandfauna,there’s well astheexhibitiononMedi- Amenities (botanical garden2€),boathire). Open Daily6am–9pm.AdmFree also visitthePlageBorélybeach. From JunetoSeptember,youcan ( b

04 422066

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ALLAGES

, www.aix- 11/1/10 2:08 PM

Historic Buildings & July and August, bring a picnic What to See & Do Monuments and sit in the garden under the shady trees. If you visit late in Atelier Paul Cézanne the afternoon, you can enjoy a ★★ ALL AGES 30-minute guided tour in English. 9 avenue Paul Cézanne, Aix-en- Open Daily 10am–6pm July–Aug; Provence, b 04 42 21 06 53, www. daily 10am–noon and 2–6pm Apr– atelier-cezanne.com June and Sept; Mon–Sat 10am–noon There’s a lived-in feel to and 2–5pm Oct–Mar. 30-minute Cézanne’s cottage-cum-studio; it’s guided tour in English at 5pm (Apr– Sept) or 4pm (Oct–Mar). Adm 5.50€, as if he’s gone out for the after- 13–25s 2€, under 13s free. Credit noon to paint a view of the Mon- MC, V (min. 10€). tagne Ste.-Victoire (p. 150) and is due back any second. Many of his Château d’If OVERRATED ALL AGES belongings (including some of the Boats leave 1 quai de la Fraternité subjects of his multi-million- (formerly quai des Belges), Marseille, pound paintings, including a b 04 91 46 54 65, www.monum.fr green jug and a rum bottle) are dotted around his high-ceilinged, The best thing about this 16th- brightly lit workroom. It’s an century fort made famous by ideal opportunity for children to Alexandre Dumas’s novel, The see how the father of modern art Count of Monte Cristo, is the worked, before heading to the 20-minute boat journey to the Musée Granet (Place St. Jean de small, bare island of If and the Malte, b 04 42 52 88 32, www. view of Marseille from the sea. museegranet-aixenprovence.fr) to Even so, children love pretend- view some of his paintings. In ing to be pirates and will also be

Atelier Paul Cézanne

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09_683361-ch06.indd 153 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 154 154 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence gear. 19 rueGrignan,Marseille, ★★★ Musée Cantini Top Museums under 25sfree.Amenities 5:30pm mid-Sept–mid-May.Adm5€, May–mid-Sept; Tues–Sun9:30am– Open Daily9:30am–6:15pmmid- Îles duFrioul— that ashipwrecked intrigued whenyoutellthem Château d’If tury. Boatsalsogototheother kept herebrieflyinthe16thcen- (a presentforthethenPope)was 77 75,www.marseille-tourisme.com you’ll certainlywanttoheadaround thecornerto Place St.-Michel,tosamplethechocolates namedafterhim. events. Youmayliketovisitthe tradamus (1503–66),isclaimedby sometohavepredictedvariousworld little aboutitsmostfamousresident.MicheldeNostredame,aka Nos- No triptoSalon-de-Provence(p. 148) iscompletewithout learninga 31 ), inthehousewherehelivedand wrotehisfamous

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rhinoceros b 04 91 54 04 9154 Nostradamus

Musée Nostradamus paintings ofnearby Marseille andRaoulDufy’s town. PaulSignac’simagesof century buildinginthecentreof floor ofawhite,light17th- Provence, housedontheground lections we’vecomeacrossin is oneofthebest-displayedcol- dren to20th-centuryart.This A greatplacetointroducechil- painted barefoot and hanging painted barefootandhanging raga (avant-gardeartistwho light. StandinginfrontofaShi- have flockedhereforyears—the (p. 146) showexactlywhyartists to blacked-out circle paintings to blacked-outcirclepaintings (whose latteryearsweredevoted from arope)orYoshihara Au PéchéMignon . And Prophéties. And ( b

L’Estaque 04 90 56 64 04 905664 in in

11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do The Best Theme Parks

Aquacity (b 04 91 51 54 08, www.aquacity.fr), off A51 between Mar- seille and Aix, near Plan de Campagne. This open-air water park has wave machines, slides, doughnuts and even a ‘children’s island’. Magic Land (b 04 42 79 86 90, www.magic-park-land.com), off the A55 near Carry-le-Rouet. Imagine your ideal theme park and double it—this place is very diverse. OK Corral (b 04 42 73 80 05, www.okcorral.fr), off the RN8 near Cuges-les-Pins. This is a Wild West theme park complete with a campsite where you can rent a fully equipped tepee for a week or two. Village des Automates (b 04 42 57 30 30, www.villagedesauto mates.com), off RN7 near St.-Cannat. Kids will love the giant dinosaurs and musical eggs at this theme park where fairytales and fables are brought to life.

reminiscent of satori, the enlight- Open Mon and Wed–Sun 10am– enment of zen) is a good time for noon and 2–6pm. Adm 4.30€, under a discussion on the nature of art. 25s 3€. Credit Cash only. Open Tues–Sun 11am–6pm June– Sept; 10am–5pm Oct–May. Adm 3€. Musée du Savon Marius Fabre ★ ALL AGES Musée de l’Empéri ALL AGES 148 avenue Paul Bourret, Salon-de- Provence, b 04 90 53 24 77, www. Château de l’Empéri, Montée du marius-fabre.fr Puech, Salon-de-Provence, b 04 90 56 22 36 Walk around any market in Accumulated by two brothers Provence and you’ll see stalls and now owned by the state, this selling mounds of scented soap is said by experts to be the best stamped savon de Marseille— collection of militaria in France Marseille soap—made in the outside of Les Invalides in Paris. region since the medieval period. Housed in the former residence However, the ‘real’ Marseille of the archbishops of Arles, the soap we see today is manufac- museum takes you on a journey tured according to rules laid from the world of Louis XIV to down by Louis XIV in the 17th World War I via hundreds of century. Marius Fabre started exhibits, including arms, uni- making his in 1900, and it’s still forms and even Napoleon’s bed ‘cooked’ in the traditional way from St. Helena. My son loves in the original factory. You can the life-size dummy horses. The see the soap-makers at work, museum sometimes closes with- read about the history of soap- out prior notice, so it’s worth making and admire the world’s phoning in advance to check largest cube of Marseille soap. opening times. 155

09_683361-ch06.indd 155 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 156 156 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence (daily inschoolholidays).AdmFree. Open WedandSat1:30–5:30pm own masterpieces. interactive exhibits,orcreatetheir understanding ofthemesthrough meet theartists,developtheir workshops wherechildrencan museums), andtheseinclude exhibitions inotherMarseille (often associatedwithcurrent are twothemedexhibitionsayear can discoverartsandcrafts.There where youngonesaged4andup museum, butit’smoreofaspace officially classedasachildren’s Panier district,thisplaceis Situated intheheartofold b 29 MontéedesAccoules,Marseille, ★★ Préau desAccoules Arts &Crafts Amenities children under15free.CreditMC,V. 3.50€ formuseumandsoapfactory, tour 10:30amMonandThurs.Adm 1:30–5pm, Fri8:30am–4pm;factory Open Mon–Thurs8:30am–noonand INSIDER TIP 04 915206 animals. grounds andstrokingthefarm kids hadfunexploringthe three-course mealtocook,the kids). Whilewewaitedforour usually chargeshalf-pricefor (from 85€perpersonalthoughhe traditional Provençalcuisine Provence foramorningpreparing beautiful bastidenearAix-en- 87 47).Wewerewelcomedathis should try If yourkidsenjoycooking,you Cooking School

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AGE4&UP Marc Heracle’s ( b 04 4261

Enfant beau Cézanne In theStepsof you askaboutthe‘ about 40minutes.Makesure and aviaduct.Thejourneytakes artwork) androlloverbridges (some embellishedwithoriginal creeks, chugthroughtunnels turquoise watersandlittle trip youcangazedownatthe tion toMartigues.Duringthe from Marseille’sSt.-Charlessta- Bleue istotaketheregionaltrain A funwaytodiscovertheCôte ter-sncf.com Marseille toMartigues,www. ★ Côte BleuebyTrain Child-friendly Tours and thecaféson the housewherehewasborn famous formerresident,such as est associatedwiththeirmost free brochureonplacesofinter- the touristoffice,pickuptheir Cézanne’ guidedtourofferedby expensive ‘SurlesPasde Rather thansignupforthe provencetourism.com b Général deGaulle,Aix-en-Provence, Start fromtouristoffice,2placedu a taxitoSt.-Charlesstation. walk around:taketheMétroor and canfeeluncomfortableto the Belsunceareaisalittleseedy of Marseille’sLaCanebièreand members ofyourparty.Thetop the priceofticketsforuptofive under 12—thiswillcut25%off elling withatleastonechild 04 42161161,www.aixen

VALUE where heheldcourt.The ’ reductionifyou’retrav-

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VALUE

ALLAGES Cours Mira- Découverte

11/1/10 2:08 PM sites are marked by gold studs like the look of and take in the What to See & Do with a letter ‘C’ embedded in view over to Château d’If the pavements. Even if you’re (p. 153). I find a game of I Spy? not particularly arty, it makes is a good way of getting our kids discovering the town more involved. interesting. Combine the Grand Tour Also worth a trip with chil- with a City Pass (b 04 91 13 89 dren are the Bibémus quarries 00, www.marseille-tourisme.com), (just off the D10 before Vauven- which gives you one (20€) or argues), which are full of strange two (27€) days’ access to many shapes that Cézanne loved to of Marseille’s attractions. paint in the shadow of Montagne Open Daily 10am–7pm Apr–Oct; Ste.-Victoire—make sure you daily 10:45am–5:30pm Nov–Dec and wear comfy walking shoes, and Feb–Mar. Adm Adult 1-day pass 18€, don’t attempt it with a buggy. children aged 4–11 8€, children under 4 free. Credit Cash only. Marseille—Le Grand Tour ★★ ALL AGES Active Families Buses leave from Vieux Port. b 04 91 91 05 82, www.marseillelegrand Côte Bleue Plongée tour.com ★★ AGE 8 & UP As in many cities, open-top Les Marins du Port, Sausset-les-Pins, buses are a great way to explore b 04 42 45 42 42, www.cote-bleue- Marseille when you haven’t yet plongee.com got your bearings. The 16 stops Imagine floating weightlessly, include Parc Borély (p. 152), surrounded by multi-coloured Notre-Dame de la Garde rocks and red coral, while shoals church and the Stade Vélo- of exotic fish wiggle by you in drome (p. 150). If you don’t slow motion. This diving school have a car, it’s also a good way to will make sure you have an take a ride along the scenic Cor- unforgettable underwater experi- niche, check out the sumptuous ence (in English, should you villas, decide which beach you wish) on the Côte Bleue,

Little Tourist Trains

Marseille has not one but two Petits Trains Touristiques (b 04 91 25 24 69, www.petit-train-marseille.com), both of which sport OM colours (p. 150) and offer year-round trips every 20 to 30 minutes (from 6€ for adults and 3€ for kids) from the Vieux Port to the Panier district or up to Notre-Dame de la Garde church. There are also tourist trains in Cassis (b 06 11 54 27 73, www.cpts.fr), departing from Cassis’s tourist office on Esplanade du Général de Gaulle near the port, and in Aix (b 06 11 54 27 73, www.cpts.fr), leaving from Place de la Rotonde.

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09_683361-ch06.indd 157 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 158 158 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence forest.fr Chemin deFiguerolle,Martigues, Wed, SatandSun10am–7pm Open Daily9:30am–8pmJuly–Aug; the on-siterestaurant. meadow oratastybitein you canenjoyapicnicinthe age andability.Afterwards, trails areallocatedaccordingto circuit takesabout2hoursand culty atIndianForestSud.Each trails ofvaryingheightanddiffi- and skillonropebridgesalong pensioners cantesttheirnerve Everyone from5-year-oldsto b b Les PetitesBastides,Bouc-Bel-Air, ★★ Indian ForestSud required. CreditMC,V. aged 8–1242€;advancebooking including equipment55€,children mid-Sept–mid-May. AdmFirstdive Sept; daily9:30am–noonand4–7pm Open Daily8am–7pmmid-May–mid- first dive. old hand.Allowhalfadayfor whether you’reanoviceoran Léonard Parli,Aix-en-Provence 06 13011986,www.indian 04 42940319/0613011986;

AGE5&UP

Frioul with aneco-guideonthe son youcanspendtheafternoon tours. Foranominalfeeperper- guided walksandsnorkelling local environmentthrough aims tointroducepeoplethe eco-friendly organisationthat coastline—Naturoscope isan great waytoexploreMarseille’s If youspeakFrench,thisisa naturoscope.fr b 3 impasseduMeunier,Marseille, ★★★ Naturoscope 14€, children5–811€.CreditMC,V. Dec–Jan. Adm17€,children9–11 Sun 10am–5:30pmOct–Mar;closed Apr–June andSept;Wed,Sat INSIDER TIP 06 23877530,www. ( ing equipmentandinsurance. children over12for63€,includ- nises ‘firstdives’inEnglishfor cassidaindeplongee.com) orga- Cassis’s divingschool b 04 42018916,www.centre (p. 154).

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GREEN

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Îles du 11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do

Fish Market, Marseille

Open Daily 9am–7pm. Adm 2€; visitors can see the sweets being advance booking required. Credit made in the workshop downstairs Cash only. (phone in advance). Open Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat 9am– Shopping 12:30pm and 3–7pm. Credit MC, V. Léonard Parli FIND ★★ 35 avenue Victor Hugo, Aix-en- Les Minots de Marseille Provence, b 04 42 26 05 71, www. 26 place aux Huiles, Marseille, b 04 leonard-parli.com 96 11 00 16, www.lesminots.eu You won’t go far in Provence This little shop near the Vieux without coming into contact with Port sells every kind of toy and a calisson, an ellipse-shaped sweet game imaginable, from CDs of made from ground almonds lullabies to baby’s first drums mixed with candied melon and and eco-friendly wooden toys. fruit syrup, famous for being one Open Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. Credit of the 13 Christmas desserts MC, V. (p. 165). Léonard Parli founded the first Calisson factory in this Santons Fouque ★ shop in Aix in 1874, and the busi- 65 cours Gambetta, Aix-en- ness is still run by his family on Provence, b 04 42 26 33 38, www. the original premises. Sometimes santons-fouque.com

TIP Read All About It Browse books over muffins at Book in Bar (Rue Joseph Cabassol, b 04 42 26 60 07, www.bookinbar.com). Just off the Cours Mirabeau in Aix, this Eng- lish-language bookshop sells novels, travel guides, comics and children’s books for all ages. There’s a tearoom in the back. 159

09_683361-ch06.indd 159 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 160 160 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence work. Theshopisa15-minute watch Mireilleandherteamat music, andsometimeseven cribs tothesoundoftraditional browse thelittleclayfiguresand Mediterranean garden.Youcan surrounded byaperfume-laden workshop inaProvençalhouse santons intheirboutiqueand Fouque familyhasbeenmaking experience. Since1934,the This isnotjustashop,it’san onto Cours Honoré d’Estienne onto CoursHonoré d’Estienne tours. in advancefordetailsofguided walk fromthecitycentre.Call chain Neuve, tothefamily-friendly b the well-established (p. 160) andsteakhouses(from taurants suchas places todine,includingfishres- The VieuxPortislinedwith Marseille &Around DINING FAMILY-FRIENDLY 2–6pm. CreditMC,V.Amenities Open Mon–Sat9am–noonand Local producemarket: Food &fishmarket: Fruit &vegetablemarket: Fish market: and organicproduceonWedmorning). the from ProvençaltoVietnamese in Nearby, you’llfindeverything 91 40

TIP 04 913384 Place auxHuiles , on Quai des Belges). , onQuaidesBelges). Hippopotamus, TheBestLocalMarkets QuaidesBelges,OldPort,Marseille,everymorning. , on Quai de Rive , onQuaideRive Le Miramar Entrecôte PlaceBaragnon,Cassis,WedandFrimornings. linking linking b

PlaceRichelme,Aix-en-Provence,everymorning. 04 91 59 04 9159 CoursJulien,Marseille,everymorning(flowers , Fuxia l’Epicerie( Crêpe auCarré(p. 161)and friendly restaurantssuchasLa there aresomereliablefamily- Minots deMarseille 91 1040,www.bouillabaisse.com Paule &Kopa( bastions ofProvençalcuisine, Meanwhile, twoMarseillaise self-service pastaatPastaBasta. on nearbyPlaceThiars,orgrab Le Miramar the traditionaltoyshop you dine,beforedraggingto these pedestrianisedsquareswhile d’Orves. Kidscanrunaround further downthequayto more child-friendly,walkabit here. Ifyouprefersomewhere actually seenany‘smallpeople’ request, althoughwe’venever vegetables forchildrenon ers, butofferssimplefishand It’s smart,withDJ-wearingwait- most associated withMarseille. taste bouillabaisse,thedish Port istheverybestplaceto This restaurantintheVieux 12 quaiduPort,Marseille, 30 and Arceneaulx,( without thekids. Marseillois EXPENSIVE ) arebestforaquietevening Among thetouristhaunts, (

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04 91907252 b b

b 04 91332603

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(p. 159). Les Les b 04 91 Le ), a 11/1/10 2:08 PM ) ) Family-Friendly Dining sailing-ship-turned-restaurant What you’ll immediately notice offering a children’s menu (with- at this harbourside fish restau- out chips) as well as the prized rant is the age range of the clien- local fishy feast. tele, which extends from babies Open Tues–Sat noon–2pm and to grandmas. A family restaurant 7–10pm. Main courses 35–60€. Bouil- in every sense of the word, it’s labaisse 55€. Credit AE, MC, V. run by the latest generation of the fishing family who opened it MODERATE about 150 years ago. Children Le Café des Epices ★★ will be fascinated by the fish counter. The owner, Eric, who 4 rue du Lacydon, Marseille, b 04 91 91 22 69, www.cafedesepices.com has young ones of his own, is keen for children to eat well, and Once you’ve tasted the food the menu enfant (8.60€) consists here, you won’t want to go any- of fresh fish with vegetables. where else. Aixois Chef Arnaud Sundays are especially busy, so de Grammont is a culinary book in advance or turn up magician: even my 18-month- early. Parents can enjoy a chilled old son Charlie scoffed a grown- glass of the renowned local white up portion of wild salmon or rosé with their meal. cooked with blinis and cara- Open Tues–Sun noon–2pm and melised onions. Green- and 7:45–10pm June–Sept; daily noon– pink-painted tables are scattered 2pm Oct–Dec and Feb–May. Main around the pretty pedestrianised courses from 13.90€. Children’s square beside the Hôtel de Ville, menu 8.60€. Credit Cash only. and the daily menu is written up on an oversized olive-tree pot. INEXPENSIVE Sadly, there’s no kids’ menu. La Crêpe au Carré ★ Open Tues–Sat 10:30am–3pm and 40 place aux Huiles, Marseille, b 04 6–11pm. Menus two-course menu 91 55 52 39, www.lacrepeaucarre. 21€, three-course menu 25€. Credit com MC, V. Poissonnerie Laurent ★★★ This stone-vaulted crêperie is built in a converted warehouse 5 quai Barthélemy, Cassis, b 04 42 01 71 56 over the ancient canal that used

Aïoli

Aïoli is best described as garlic mayonnaise, but in Provence it can also refer to a complete dish consisting of boiled cod, potatoes, carrots, green beans and egg, topped with the sauce. For an authentic recipe, see www.aixenprovencetourism.com/uk/aix-aioli.htm (snails are optional).

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09_683361-ch06.indd 161 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 162 162 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence fresh also wellcateredforatmarket- Rue Espariat.Mini-gourmets are while parentsrelaxwithsports where kidscanrunaround, onto thepedestrianisedsquare whipped cream.Tablesspillout caramelised applecrepewith My daughterAlexandralikesthe pancakes andsaladsareonoffer. of savourysarrasingalettes,sweet factories. Nowadays,amultitude to bringoilMarseille’ssoap screen TV. matches playingonthewide- Le Formal Le Grillon in BelleEpoquecafé-barssuchas for people-watchingovercoffee The Aix-en-Provence 10.90€. CreditMC,V. midnight. Menutwo-coursemenu Mon–Fri noon–3pmand6:30pm– Open SatandSunnoon–midnight, 1 rue VictorHugo,justofftheharbour. Brasserie BeauRivage The besticecreaminAixissoldatPhilippeSegond vaulted cellarsoffoodiemecca dining willenjoythestone- pedestrianised back-streets. rants canbefoundinthemyriad menus meanthatbetterrestau- varying qualityandtourist-priced 04 58 Snickers. In flavours includewhitechocolate,pineappleand(notveryFrench,admittedly) shaped like,andtastingof,a 67 coursMirabeau,whichaswellmakingyummyices,offers TIP Parents seekingfineFrench Cours Mirabeau ) onRuedesTanneurs, Tomate Verte TheBestLocalIceCream

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11/1/10 2:08 PM ) ), ), Family-Friendly Accommodation TIP Picnic with a View Situated on the eastern side of the entrance to Marseille’s Vieux Port, the Parc du Pharo has an impressive château and gardens and an unim- peded view of the Château d’If and Îles du Frioul (p. 154). It’s perfect for picnics.

Afternoon-long opening flamboyant interiors (expect a bill hours make it practical for par- of 30€ to 50€ per person). My ents juggling kids’ meal times. favourite family-friendly place is Open Daily noon–midnight. Main Le 7e Restaurant (b 04 90 55 24 courses 16€–28€. Amenities 05, www.le7e.fr) near Barben Credit MC, V. Zoo. It has vaulted stone interiors and an outdoor terrace, and offers homely French cuisine INEXPENSIVE ★★ plus a 10€ kids’ menu. In central Chez Jo Salon, a convenient place for a 59 rue Espariat, Aix-en-Provence, family snack is the Crêperie de b 04 42 26 12 47, www.pizzeria Salon (b 04 90 55 93 43) on chezjo.com pedestrianised Rue de l’Horloge. Locals and celebrities alike flock to Chez Jo, overlooking the fountain in Rue Espariat. Run FAMILY-FRIENDLY for the last 30 years by Aixoise ACCOMMODATION Jo and now by her son Alexan- dre, this long-established pizzeria Marseille & Around is famed for its tasty anchovy pizzas and lasagne straight from Accommodation in Marseille is a the wood-fired oven. curious mix of the good, the bad and the ugly. One such curate’s Open Daily noon–3pm and 7pm– 1am. Main courses from 11.50€. egg is the Hôtel Le Corbusier Credit MC, V. (b 04 91 16 78 00, www.hotelle corbusier.com, family studios from 94€), whose stark architec- Salon-de-Provence ture both wows and horrifies Salon-de-Provence isn’t known families in equal measure. Walk- for its fine dining. However, ing around the dimly lit corri- there are two notable exceptions dors is like being in an episode for an expensive romantic meal of Dr Who—you expect to without the kids: the Abbaye de bump into a platoon of Judoon Ste.-Crox (p. 166), with its at any moment. An alternative panoramic terrace and menus way to see this architectural from 71€, and La Salle à Man- milestone with older kids is to ger (b 04 90 56 28 01) on Rue go for a gastronomic lunch at 24€. du Maréchal Joffre, with its 163

09_683361-ch06.indd 163 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 164 164 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence Notre-Dame delaGarde,the of theport,lookinguptowards harbour views.Ontheotherside make themostofwonderful upgrading toasuperiorroom rooms forfamilies.It’sworth has apool,spaandconnecting looking theVieuxPort,hotel ated atthewater’sedgeover- 15 5900 swish 72, www.fuaj.org means ‘littlesaint’. The wordsantoncomesfromtheProvençal word using solar-andwind-powered ates entirelyoneco-principles, try, Cassis’syouthhosteloper- the middleofCalanquescoun- get backtonature.Situatedin the placetocomeifyouwant sense oftheword,anddefinitely This isthe‘wild’cardinevery La Fontasse,Cassis, Fontasse Auberge deJeunesseLa 22 316357 Résidence duVieuxPort 91 22 com com also love alternative. View-seekerswill ments at260€)isawell-priced favourite placeinCassis. this diminutiveB&Bisour overlooking theCapCanaille; 125€) andaswimmingpool INEXPENSIVE FUN FACT A saferbetinthecityis ). Ithasthreerooms(from , two-roomfamilyapart- Sofitel VieuxPort , www.sofitel.com La SuiteCassis

, , GREEN www.lasuitecassis. www.hotelmarseille. LittleSaint b 04 420102 ( ). Situ- ( b ( b

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06 04 www.lousoulei.com Simone. final homeofsingerNina urchin festivalandforbeingthe renowned foritsFebruarysea campsite, Carry-le-Rouetis the family;restofyear of summertimeactivitiesforall supermarket andaprogramme three swimmingpools,alarge under 6.It’swellequipped,with four adultsplustwochildren let-style mobilehomessleeping tent orcaravanpitchespluscha- Bleue, thisfour-starcampsitehas ily holidayrightontheCôte The idealspotforabudgetfam- Carry-le-Rouet, Camping LouSouleï Amenities Rates from12€pp.CreditCashonly. Closed Jan–mid-MarBerths50. quoise sea. Calanques cliffsandthetur- with panoramicviewsoverthe get there,you’llberewarded Although it’sabitofhiketo over theageof7areallowed. of 10beds,andonlychildren dation isinstandarddormitories ing andswimming.Accommo- a greatbaseforwalking,climb- and nohotwaterorshowers.It’s electricity, arainwatercistern seille. About1 Calanques, MartiguesandMar- it’s handyforexploringthe

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★★

FIND 11/1/10 2:08 PM

Family-Friendly Accommodation Christmas in Provence

The festive period in Provence begins on December 4th, when families begin to assemble their santon-filled Nativity scene. These figurines represent local villagers from the 19th century, when the crib scene is set. December sees santon fairs across the region, notably in Marseille, along with eye-catching craft and food markets. Christmas dinner, comprising seven meatless dishes, is traditionally eaten on Christmas Eve before the family heads off to midnight Mass. In some villages, the Mass includes a nativity play sung and spoken in Proven- çal. The family returns home to finish the festivities with 13 desserts, representing the diners at the Last Supper.

Berths 700. Price Mobile home Aix-en-Provence rental July and Aug from 82€ per day, rest of year from 432€ per week. MODERATE Credit MC, V. Amenities Hôtel Cézanne ★★★ FIND (formerly Mercure Paul Cézanne) 40 avenue Victor Hugo, Aix-en- Hôtel Edmond Rostand Provence, b 04 42 91 11 11, http:// ★★ VALUE cezanne.hotelaix.com 31 rue Dragon, Marseille, b 04 91 37 This former Mercure hotel in 74 95, www.hoteledmondrostand. central Aix has been transformed com under the imaginative guidance A well-priced place for a short of ex-Parisian journalist Cathe- stay in the centre of Marseille. rine Spieth-Ducret. She ensures Though it’s only a 5-minute all the right details are in place: walk from the Vieux Port, it’s on free minibar, plush bed linen, a quiet street in the antiques free Wi-Fi, free secure car park- quarter. Philippe, the friendly ing and a sumptuous champagne owner, has renovated the hotel breakfast complete with truffle extensively since he took over in omelette. The contemporary 2007, furnishing its contempo- bedrooms have been signed off rary bedrooms with wooden by Charles Montemarco, one floors and flatscreen TVs. In an of the designers of Aix’s ultra- adjacent building there are com- luxury Villa Gallici. Meanwhile, fortable family studios with fully Cézanne himself no doubt equipped kitchens. As a native of would have approved of artist Cassis, Philippe can give you Zidan’s fire-inspired paintings plenty of advice on sightseeing. that decorate the reception area. Rooms 15. Rates 65€–99€. Break- Connecting rooms 310 and 311 fast 8.50€. Cot free. Credit AE, MC, are perfect for families. There’s V. Amenities In room 165

09_683361-ch06.indd 165 11/1/10 2:08 PM 09_683361-ch06.indd 166 166 6 Marseille & Aix-en-Provence provence.federal-hotel.com www.residence-atrium-aix-en- ent pastas. choice of10saucesand9differ- take-away pastafor18€witha no restaurant,butyoucanorder in thecafédownstairs. your ownbreakfast,youcaneatit seeing. Ifyoudon’twanttomake ists arehappytoadviseonsight- this city.Thefriendlyreception- that parkingspacesarescarcein private carpark—aboongiven historic Mazarindistrict,ithasa Conveniently locatednearAix’s double bed,theotherasofa-bed. four people—oneroomhasa two-room apartmentsforupto catering, brightlycoloured comes familieswithitsself- This modernhôtel-résidencewel- Aix-en-Provence, 15 coursGambetta,EspaceForbin, L’Atrium d’Anaïte ties 12 free.CreditAE,MC,V.Ameni- fast 19€+3€inroom,childrenunder Rooms 55.Ratesfrom159€.Break- Inroom b

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In room Credit AE,MC,V.Amenities Breakfast 12€,childrenunder126€. person studiosfrom117€.Cotfree. Rooms 140.Ratesfrom89€,four- ground, farm,golfandtennis. with kids’club,pools,play- week), inaprettyparkcomplete studios 290€to1,360€)per cottages andapartments(family www.pierreetvacances.com 90 562455 The Salon-de-Provence com Pont-Royal village of Salon-de-Provence,holiday Château andZoonearby.North a visittothegloriousBarben (from 475€).It’sworthfittingin from itstwo-roomfamilysuites and enjoythesweepingviews explore theextensivegrounds quiet placetoliebythepool, explore inlandProvence.It’sa for familiesheadingonto ) makesaluxuriousstopover Abbaye deSte.-Croix Pierres etVacances

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11/1/10 2:08 PM 7 Nîmes & the Camargue

10_683361-ch07.indd 167 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 168 168 7 Nîmes & the Camargue bug you,thisotherwise unspoiltregionhas plenty toentertain Carré d’Art lie cheek-by-jowl,fromUzès’s fairytalecastletoNormanFoster’s amphitheatres inArlesandNîmes. Ancientandmodernarchitecture crowded beachesinProvence, orexplorewell-preservedRoman ride acrossthemarshes,orbuildsandcastlesonlongest andleast garbed gardiansmountedontheirfamouswhitehorses.Jointhemto the Mediterranean,inaregionthatisstillpatrolledbycolourfully bulls inhabitthewetlandsandlagoonswheremightyRhône meets France’s wildestandweirdestregions.Flamingoeshalf-wild black F NÎMES &THECAMARGUE Le Grau-du-Roi Le Grau-du-Roi 8 0 0 N113 Although themosquitoesthat gatherinsummermonthsmight 7

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ITALY Grans Grans A7 D5 Nice E714 D2 11/1/10 2:08 PM children from tots to teens. Depending on their age, they’ll love to Visitor Information watch falcons performing at Beaucaire castle, dressing up like a cowboy in Nîmes, canoeing on the river Gardon or heading off the beaten track to the windswept expanse of L’Espiguette. Above all, don’t miss colourful festivals that prove how the Spanish, Italian and Gypsy cultures have shaped local life over the centuries.

VISITOR Orientation INFORMATION The N86 takes you north from Nîmes to Remoulins, where it Nîmes, Uzès, Pont du Gard and turns into the D981, which passes Aigues-Mortes are all in the the entrance to the Pont du Gard Gard département, covered by and carries on to Uzès. Arles is www.gard-tourisme.com. For connected to Nîmes by the N113 information on Arles and the and to the Camargue by the Camargue, both in the Bouches D570, which ends at Stes-Maries- du Rhône, see www.camargue.fr de-la-Mer. Alternatively, take the or www.visitprovence.com. D36 from Arles along the eastern side of the Étang de Vaccarès for Le Sambuc and Salin de Giraud. Getting There To reach Aigues-Mortes, take By Air The most convenient the N113 south from Nîmes to airport for this area is Nîmes- Gallargues and then the D979, Garons (www.nimes-aeroport.fr), which ends in Le Grau-du-Roi. about 10km outside the city; a From Arles, take the N572 west shuttle bus (5€, b 04 66 29 27 29) towards Aimargues, where it joins will take you into the city centre the D979. in about 40 minutes. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) operates Getting Around flights to Nîmes from London Luton and Liverpool. If you’re exploring the area using public transport, it’s easiest to By Train You can get from Lon- base yourself in Nîmes or Arles, don to Nîmes by train in about both well connected to sur- 6 hours, taking the Eurostar rounding towns and villages by from London St. Pancras to bus or train. See www.lepilote. either Lille or Paris, then the com for Cartreize buses serving TGV. For timetable information Arles, Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer and and bookings contact Rail Tarascon (in French only). The Europe (p. 32). ‘Entre Ter et Mer’ rail service By Car See p. 34. connects Nîmes with Vauvert, Aigues-Mortes and the seaside resort of Le Grau-du-Roi for a flat fare of 6€: it’s a great way of 169

10_683361-ch07.indd 169 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 170 170 7 Nîmes & the Camargue mation onregionaltrains,visit impatient tears.Formoreinfor- indeed, mumsanddads)to can reducechildren(and, plague thecoastinsummerand avoiding thetrafficjamsthat website airport arelistedonthe region. RentalfirmsatNîmes son ofcar-hirecompaniesinthe market.com 1 Attractions Children’s Top10 WHAT TOSEE&DO www.ter-sncf.com (p. 173). in Nîmes’sRomanamphitheatre

Pretending Check out ( pitalier d’ArlesJosephImbert 12:30pm Saturday.InArles,LaPoste( 97 52 bre 1918,Nîmes,nexttoLesArenes.InArles,CreditAgricole( Shopping: Post Offices: 01 Pharmacies: Internet Cafés: Hospitals: Banks: République, Arles. 16 Monday toSaturday.InArles, vard desLices. Fourchon. 30 b

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) 09 6001 04 9096 04 90 18 04 9018 11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do 9 Learning about flamingoes at booked up years in advance of Pont de Gau ornithology park this annual event. (p. 176). May. Adm Free. 0 Canoeing under the Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct (p. 179). Fêtes de la Tarasque ★ ALL AGES Child-friendly Events & Tarascon, b 04 90 91 03 52, www. Entertainment tarascon.org In days of old the citizens of Féria de Nîmes ★★ AGE 10 & UP Tarascon lived in mortal fear of b Around Nîmes, 04 66 58 38 00, a man-eating monster with a www.ot-nimes.fr lion’s head and a dragon’s tail, You probably won’t want to named the tarasque, that had its attend the bullfights in this lair on the banks of the Rhône. Roman arena, but you’ll have Thankfully, St. Martha subdued fun wandering around soaking the beast with holy water long up the atmosphere (not to men- enough for the locals to stone it tion the fumes from pastis and to death. These days the event is sangria) at Nîmes’s 5-day Whit- commemorated by a colourful sun festival. Both locals and replica of the monster paraded tourists get decked out in Cam- through the streets of the town, argue or flamenco-style finery; charging into the crowd and try Les Indiennes de Nîmes snapping at spectators. (p. 185), if you want to join June. Adm Free. them. Be warned that accommodation in central Nîmes gets

La Tarasque

171

10_683361-ch07.indd 171 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 172 172 7 Nîmes & the Camargue cheval.camargue.fr worth it. seats—they costalittlemore,butit’s you getnumbered(numerotées) for under12s,30€adults.Makesure Grand SpectacleEquestrecost12€ July. AdmTicketsfortheclimactic set toflamencomusic. horns), andseeingahorseshow from betweenayoungbull’s razeteurs trytosnatcharosette guaise (agamewheremencalled tance, observingacoursecamar- streets (abrivado)fromasafedis- horses andbullsrunthroughthe Children willlovewatchingthe this bull-dominatedregion. insight intotheroleofhorsesin Ricard Méjanes,givingyouan and atthenearbyDomainePaul free) inStes-Maries-de-la-Mer with dozensofevents(some ting for3daysofhorseyheaven, The Camargueistheperfectset- b Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer andaround, ★★★ Festival duCheval good introductiontothegreatDutchartist’swork. illustrated storyofalittleboywhobefriendsVanGogh,provideskidswith Camille andtheSunflowersbyLaurenceAnholt(FrancesLincoln),an 04 90978586,www.festivaldu FUN FACT tourist office( August, whenCamarguetraditions arebroughttolife.Thevillage’s your waytoorfromAigues-Mortes, especiallyduringthe woman whoinventedBotox.This Camarguetownisworthavisiton attached toabullring,andamong its3,000inhabitantsistheChilean St.-Laurent d’AigouzeistheonlyplaceinEuropetohaveitschurch

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) isonBoulevardGambetta. www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr streets nowhousesdozensofres- century townwithitscriss-cross Once athrivingport,this13th- impressive whenyouapproach. fortified wallscertainlylook ing name,butAigues-Mortes’s ‘Dead Waters’ishardlyanentic- Tourist office: Aigues-Mortes Cities, Towns&Resorts art. Childrenlovetotourthe selling clothes,homedecorand smart andmorebo-hoshops taurants andanumberofboth INSIDER TIP pharmacies. from allUKandmostFrench DEET (diethyltoluamide)available any oftheversionscontaining ronella oil.Tokeepthemoff,use ‘natural’ repellentscontainingcit- and whichseemundeterredby that oftenplaguetheCamargue, repellent againstthemosquitoes Remember topacksomepowerful b 04 66537300, fête votivein

11/1/10 2:08 PM

What to See & Do

The fortified walls of Aigues-Mortes

ramparts, then visit the shop when Vincent Van Gogh and beneath them for all things Paul Gauguin were here. Arles medieval, including princess and still has a thriving artistic life page outfits and castles to make that includes the world-famous out of card. If you arrive in town photography festival, Les Ren- in the morning, you might spy contres d’Arles, from July to fishermen unloading their catch September every summer. on Quai Colbert. Don’t miss the Be warned that the old town nearby seaside resort of Le Grau- is not pedestrianised, and cars du-Roi, with its Seaquarium tend to hurtle through the nar- (p. 177). row streets at top speed. Arles ★★★ Nîmes ★★ Tourist office: b 04 90 18 41 20, Tourist office: b 04 66 58 38 00, www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr www.ot-nimes.fr The warmth, the colours and, The first thing that strikes you above all, the sunlight that give about Nîmes is how comfortably Arles its unique glow have the ancient and the modern sit inspired more than a few paint- side-by-side here. The focal point ers. Smaller than Nîmes, the of the town is the Place de la town comes into its own on a Maison Carrée, where Maison mellow summer evening, when Carrée, a Roman temple, lies you see the setting sun turning opposite the Carré d’Art, a 1993 the stone orange and hear the contemporary art museum and animated buzz of cafégoers. Visit library designed by British archi- the famous Roman arena or tect Lord (Norman) Foster. walk around the narrow streets Nîmes was founded by Roman in the vieille ville (old town) to soldiers who were awarded the get a feel of what it was like land after successfully defeating 173

10_683361-ch07.indd 173 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 174 174 7 Nîmes & the Camargue

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nickname of the local football market in the Place aux Herbes team, ‘Les Crocos’. is in full swing: the smells, colours and sounds will give you Uzès ★★ an insight into everyday life in a b Tourist office: 04 66 22 68 88, Provençal town. Other family www.uzes-tourisme.com attractions are the Haribo sweet Uzès is a duchy and the whole museum (p. 180) and Haras town is built around the fairytale d’Uzès National Stud (p. 177). castle, Château d’Uzès (p. 179), Uzès is also a good base for with a real live Duke (who, nat- exploring the surrounding area, urally, lives mainly in Paris). the highlights of which are the The best time to visit the town is Pont du Gard (p. 179) and on a Saturday morning when the canoeing on the river Gardon 175

10_683361-ch07.indd 175 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 176 176 7 Nîmes & the Camargue front oftheMarina. crop originallycovered40,000 in theIceAge,thisrockyout- deposited bytheDuranceriver France, madefromfusedpebbles front ofthevillage;busyinhighseason. lesser kestrelnests.Tofindout sites inthecountrywhere grouse, anditisonlyoneoftwo only colonyofpin-tailedsand- population, includingFrance’s There isalsoanimpressivebird mer) stilltakesplaceeveryJune. go tothemountainsforsum- humance (whensheepandgoats it sinceancienttimes,andtrans- farmed onthegreenpartof as theArlesmerinohavebeen Alpilles tothesea.Sheepsuch hectares fromthesouthern Plage Sud, Plage desAmphores, L’Espiguette, The last rejoin N113. Mer beforeturningnorthonN569to south alongN568towardsFos-sur- de-Provence ontheN113thengo Provence; headfromArlestoSalon- Between ArlesandSalon-de- La Crau Spectacular Views Natural Wonders& ary anda such asa events throughouttheyeartoo, (p. 184). Thereareplentyof lies witholderchildren;therearenofacilities. September. TIP TheCamargue’sBestBeaches steppe-like plain

truffle festival ★ donkey festival LeGrau-du-Roi.Agoodoption foryoungerfamilies;situatedin LeGrau-du-Roi.An18kmBlueFlagbeachbestsuitedtofami- Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.Afamily-oriented beachin inJanu- in in Maison Carrée,Nîmes St.-Martin deCrau( 02 01 a ProvençalcrècheatChristmas. farming andtranshumance,plus which includesexhibitionson provence.com/ecomuse.htm Parc OrnithologiqueduPont Aquaria &AnimalParks more, visitthe parcornithologique.com on D570, 4km fromStes-Maries-de-la-Mer de Gau or

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FIND b

04 9047 ), in 11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do FUN FACT La Garrigue You’ll probably smell the so-called garrigue scrubland before you see it—the perfume of thyme, lavender, rosemary and other bushy plants that cover the region permeates the air whenever you leave a town.

Fred, the English-speaking anything from an hour to a day guide, refers to this nature here, depending on your orni- reserve as a ‘bird hotel’, and thological interests. that’s just what it is. He and his There are plenty of picnic family manage a 60-hectare site spots on-site, plus a café-bar, that facilitates the stay of migrat- while the neighbouring Hostell- ing birds, including thousands of erie du Pont de Gau (b 04 90 97 flamingoes and egrets. They also 81 53, www.hotelpontdegau.com) look after injured birds and take has one of the finest restaurants part in breeding programmes. in the Camargue. Children of all ages enjoy walk- Open Daily 9am–sunset Apr–Sept; ing the paths around the lakes 10am–sunset Oct–Mar. Adm 6.50€, and spotting bulls; the info children 4–10 4€. Credit AE, boards are in French but an MC, V. English-language book is available at reception. The best time Seaquarium ★★ to visit is either first thing in the Avenue du Palais de la Mer, Le Grau- morning or after 5pm, when it’s du-Roi, b 04 66 51 57 57, www. quieter; you could spend seaquarium.fr

Down on the Farm

Young children love Le Vieux Mas (Route de Fourques D15, Beaucaire, b 04 66 59 60 13, www.vieux-mas.com), a reproduction of a working farm as it was in 1900, with goats, lambs and piglets to feed and cuddle. It’s open daily 10am to 6pm April to June and September; 10am to 7pm July and August; 1:30 to 6pm October to March. Admis- sion is 7€ for adults, 5.50€ for children 4 to 16, free for under-4s. The Haras d’Uzès (Mas des Tailles, Uzès, b 04 66 22 98 59; www. haras-nationaux.fr), a National Stud Farm, is dedicated to the breeding and conservation of horses from Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence- Alpes Côte d’Azur, and Corsica. Guided visits to the stables, forge and tack room take place from mid-March to 1 July, daily 2 to 5pm, and there are guided tours every Monday and Thursday at 3pm from July to mid-September, taking around 90 minutes. Performances by the famous ‘dancing horses’ take place every Wednesday in July and August. Admission for the guided visits is 8€ adults, 4€ under 12s; shows cost 15€ for adults and children. 177

10_683361-ch07.indd 177 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 178 178 7 Nîmes & the Camargue as French.There’salifttoall exhibits areinEnglishaswell the garden.Theinteractive ing onthewoodensea-lionsin du-Roi; littleoneswillloveplay- the fishinghistoryofLeGrau- sea museum,whichfocuseson children willbeinterestedinthe who’s thesizeofawalrus.Older swimming—look outforSimba, ing thesea-lionsbaskingor it’s possibletospendageswatch- about thepredators,although followed bya20-minutefilm walk throughthesharktunnel large tanks.Thehighlightisa around theworldisonviewin la Mer,wheremarinelifefrom a coupleofhoursinthePalaisde Even mumsanddadswillenjoy floors, acaféandsouvenir 97 8255 life—raising these arethegardians(cowboys).Butthoughtraditionalwayof their businessinProvençal-patternedshirtsandmoleskintrousers— Onanaveragedayyou’ll spotlocalmenandwomengoingabout reserve. this wildandwater-lockedpartofFrance,anationalpark nature microcosm oftheCamargueby train, bike,horseoronfoot. 90 9710 www.hotel-cacharel.com category attheCannesFilmFestival. In 1953,afilmaboutboyandhishorsewontheBestShortFilm animals andculture,visitthe Ifyou’reshortontimeandwanttolearn moreaboutthearea,its (contact thetouristofficeinStes-Maries-de-la-Merfordetails: gardians, manynowprovidingself-cateringholidayaccommodation houses withroundedwallsandthatchedroofs:traditionalcabanesde Around the manadiers (ranchers)haveturnedtheir filmed entirelyonlocationintheCamargue(atHôteldeCacharel, ). Étang deLaunes , horses www.mejanes.camargue.fr Snapshot oftheCamargue and bulls ) andsparkedanongoingfascinationwith Domaine PaulRicardMéjanes andelsewhere,you’llnoticesmallwhite andgrowing ground offeringactivities young children,withaplay- spot forapicnicortobring Lices, thislittleparkisanideal Antique andtheBoulevarddes Wedged betweentheThéâtre Arles Jardin d’Été & Gardens Natural Reserves,Parks Baby-change. CreditMC,V. children 35€.AmenitiesCafé.Shop. family ticketfortwoadultsand Adm 11:30€,children5–158:30€, 11:30pm; Oct–Mar9:30pm–6:30pm. 9:30am–7:30pm; July–Aug9:30am– Open DailyApr–MayandJune–Sept shop. The is nextdoor. Crin Blanc(‘WhiteMane’)was mas (farmhouses)intohotels. ), whereyoucanexplorea rice Babyland —continues, many themepark b

( 04 90 b

11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do Roman Around

They came, they saw, and they certainly left their mark. In fact, the region got its name because it was a ‘province’ of the Roman Empire. The highlight of the area’s Roman remains is the Pont du Gard ★★★ (b 08 20 90 33 30; www.pontdugard.fr), part of a 50km aqueduct that was built in 1st century AD to transport water to Nîmes. A family day- ticket (up to five people) costs 10€. In Nîmes itself, children love a visit to the Roman arena ★★ (b 04 66 21 82 56, www.arenes-nimes.com), the best-preserved amphitheatre of the era, where they can visit rooms dedicated to gladiators and bullfighting. Follow this with a trip across town to the Maison Carrée for a 30-minute 3D film, Heroes of Nîmes. Admission is 7.80€ for adults, 5.90€ for under-12s. No visit to Arles is complete without checking out the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques ★★ (b 04 90 18 89 88, www. arles-antique.cg13.fr); admission is 7.50€ adults, 5.50€ under-12s. It is built on the site of the Roman circus (chariot racetrack) and displays major finds from the area. If you’re passing through St.-Rémy-de- Provence, stop off at Glanum ★ (b 04 90 92 23 79, www.glanum. monuments-nationaux.fr), a well-preserved Greek and Roman town. Admission is 7€ for adults; accompanied under-18s enter free.

colour-coded according to age. If Hollywood ever needs the per- Look out for the sculpture com- fect fairytale castle for a film, memorating former Arles resi- this is it. Yet what strikes you dent Vincent Van Gogh most about this building, (1853–90), and come to hear belonging to the oldest duke- live music on summer evenings. dom in France, is that it is alive Open Daily dawn–dusk. Adm Free. and lived in, albeit sporadically, by the 17th duke, Jacques de Crussol d’Uzès, and his wife and Historic Buildings & son. Guided tours (available in Monuments English) take place every day: Château d’Uzès ★★ you’ll see the living areas, wine Place du Duché, Uzès, b 04 66 22 18 cellar and little chapel, all still in 96, www.duche-uzes.fr use. Younger children will love the display of santons (figurines).

FUN FACT Which bull is which? Question: How do you to tell a Camargue bull from a Spanish bull? Answer: The horns of a Camargue bull are shaped like a lyre.

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10_683361-ch07.indd 179 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 180 180 7 Nîmes & the Camargue 76 3503(library) and thatthe135stepsupto Note thatbuggiesaren’tallowed, ing foryoungerchildren. vista pointmaybeoverwhelm- catered for (although they’ll need catered for(although they’llneed oramic views.Childrenarewell top-floor restaurantwithpan- main libraryandhasanexcellent onwards, itisalsothebaseof works datingfromthe1960s with morethan250European city’s ContemporaryArtMuseum, Nîmes. Aswellashousingthe tectural gemistheculturalhubof ter andopenedin1993,thisarchi- Designed byLord(Norman)Fos- b Place delaMaisonCarrée,Nîmes, Carré d’Art Top Museums Credit Cashonly. children 12–1612€,7–115€. and 2–6pmSept–June.Adm16€, 2–6:30pm JulyandAug;10am–noon Open Daily10am–12:30pmand Nimes Amphitheatre 04 667635(museum),

★★★ b 04 66 22 7439,www.haribo.com Tues, Thursand10:30am–6pmWed, Sun. Library:open10:30am–7pm Museum: open10am–6pmTues– tions, artandlanguage. own) relatingtocurrentexhibi- (for familiesandchildrenontheir and thereareweeklyworkshops puter artinthemultimediaarea, screenings, andcoursesincom- 30,000 volumes,regularfilm own librarywithmorethan to speakFrench):theyhavetheir with apacketof liquorice.They smell, andrewardstheirefforts ones toworkoutingredients by lish translations)challengeslittle tive exhibitionhere(withEng- Wonka’s place,buttheinterac- It’s notquiteasexcitingWilly Pont desCharrettes,Uzès, Sweet Museum) Musée duBonbon(Haribo only. Amenities Exhibition pricesvary.CreditCash free. Museumfreetounder-25s. Fri, Sat.AdmPermanentcollection

★★ b 04 66 11/1/10 2:40 PM won’t believe their eyes when You might even be wearing What to See & Do they clock the 1-kilogram bags Nîmes’s most famous export of rainbow-coloured sweets in when you visit… the word the shop on the way out. If ‘denim’ allegedly originated you’re here in August, come first from cloth manufactured here thing in the morning because called serge de Nîmes, one of the the place gets very busy. A visit most popular materials made by lasts about an hour. Next door the city’s thriving Protestant tex- are go-karts, a trampoline and an tile industry. It was originally inflatable for energetic sorts. exported to the US (via Genoa If you’re hungry after your in Italy, from where we get the visit, hop across the road to the word ‘jeans’) for use as wagon Auberge d’Uzès (b 04 66 22 16 cover, before Mr Levi Strauss 15, www.auberge-uzes.fr), which had the idea to turn it into a pair makes great Provençal food for of trousers. This little museum, all the family. Expect to pay 10€ housed in the 17th-century to 15€ for the fixed-price menu. bishop’s palace, explores life in Open Tues–Sun 10am–7pm July and Nîmes from the Middle Ages, Aug; 10am–1pm and 2–6pm last giving an insight into how both week Jan–June and Sept–Dec. Adm the textile industry and religion 6€, children 5–15 3€. Credit MC, V shaped the city. There is a fine (over 12€). display of serge including some ★ 18th-century aprons as well as Musée du Vieux Nîmes examples of local furniture, pot- Place aux Herbes, Nîmes, b 04 66 76 tery, silk shawls and objects from 73 70, www.ville-nimes.fr

Carré d’Art

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10_683361-ch07.indd 181 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 182 182 7 Nîmes & the Camargue culturel.com com www.musee-poterie-mediterranee. ranéenne Musée delaPoterieMediter- oped throughtheagesin start, seehowthearthasdevel- Forsomeideasbeforeyou one oftheworkshops. make theirownmasterpiecesin adults andchildrencantryto from oneof20orsoceramicists, well astheopportunitytobuy the centreforpotterymaking.As its clay,andthislittlevillageis been renownedforthequalityof The landaroundUzèshaslong b Blanchard, St.-QuentinlaPoterie, Office Culturel,15rueduDocteur Atelier Terre Arts &Crafts Free. Open 10am–6pmTues–Sun.Adm silkworm incubator. daily lifeincludinga19th-century from FebruarytoMayand 7pm; andWednesdaytoSunday from 10amto1pmand3 open dailyinJulyandAugust 04 66227438,www.office (April throughOctober). www.trainstouristiquesdefrance.com. Arles: Aigues-Mortes: Nîmes: English andtourstakeabout45 minutes. Adultspay4€,children2.50€; Gambetta (EasterthroughOctober). Allcommentariesareavailablein September). the town’smainentrance,PortedelaGardette(Aprilthrough ), 14ruedelaFontaine.It’s thelittletrainleavesfromoutside thetouristofficeonBoulevard ( the b

04 66036586 Train TouristiquedeNîmes the Little TouristTrains Petit Traind’Aigues-Mortes , 91 5011,www.souleiado.com 10am–5pm Tues–SatOct–Apr.Adm Open 10am–6pmdailyMay–Sept, printing andsewing. for allages,includingdesigning, ask abouttheregularworkshops English). French-speakersshould with a15-minutefilm(alsoin its 17th-centuryorigins,ending print-making anddesignfrom museum chartsthehistoryof Souleiado textilefactory,this France. Basedinthehistoric manufacturing industryin painted fabricsinspiredatextile King, whosepassionforIndian thanks toLouisXIV,theSun the region’sidentity—andit’sall linen. Thesedesignsarepartof pottery, clothesandhousehold you’ll seebrightpatternson Wherever yougoinProvence 39 rueProudhon,Tarascon, Musée Souleiado is 3€foradults,under-12sfree. noon and2to6pm.Admission in Septemberfrom10amto 10am to1pmand37pm, October 2to6pm,inJune Cash only.Amenities 6.10€, childrenunder12free.Credit leavesfromtheEsplanade departsfrom b 04 90 11/1/10 2:08 PM What to See & Do English-language Cinemas

For English-language films, look for the ‘VO’ (version originale) symbol. For current listings, see the cinema’s own website or visit www.angloinfo.com. Le Capitole, 11 rue Xavier-Sigalon, Uzès, b 08 92 89 28 92. Le Sémaphore, 20 rue Porte de France, Nîmes, b 04 66 67 83 11, www.semaphore.free.fr.

Child-friendly Tours best way to do it is with an authentic manadier (or rancher). Arles Walking Tours Gilbert Arnaud has been giving ★★★ VALUE guided tours of his property for Start from Arles tourist office (p. 173) 23 years, so he knows his stuff For the nominal cost of a book- better than most, and a 2-hour let, you and your family can visit will allow you an extended explore Arles at leisure: itinerar- glimpse into the life of a Camar- ies include ‘Arles Antique’, tak- gue rancher and his animals. ing in the Roman remains; ‘Arles You’ll need some understanding Medieval’, including the 12th- of French. century St.-Trophime church Open Daily; advance booking with its impressive doorway; required. Adm 30€, children 4–11 ‘Arles Renaissance and Classical’, 15€. Credit Cash only. culminating in the Arlaten museum of Provençal culture; For Active Families and ‘Arles and Vincent Van Gogh’, featuring sites depicted Horse-riding in the in the artist’s paintings, such as Camargue ★★★ the Langlois bridge. The self- There’s only one real way to guided walks take between 1 and experience the Camargue, and 3 hours and are signposted with that’s from the back of one of its colour-coded markers embedded inhabitants—the Camargue in the pavements. horse. However, drive into Stes- Open Daily 9am–6:45pm Apr–Oct Maries-de-la-Mer and you’ll be (times vary rest of year). Adm booklet put off by the roads lined with 1€. Credit Cash only. sorry-looking horses tethered up waiting for the next client. Camargue Safari ★★ Instead, head to the Ranch La Mas Lou Rayas, Stes-Maries-de-la- Brouzetière (b 04 90 97 82 40, Mer, b 04 90 97 52 52, www. www.labrouzetiere.camargue.fr), manade-arnaud.camargue.fr where owner Magali will take you from marsh to beach past bulls You’ll see plenty of adverts for and flamingos on hour-long to ‘Camargue Safari’ tours in a day-long treks (16€ to 70€). 4WD or calèche (cart), but the 183

10_683361-ch07.indd 183 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 184 184 7 Nîmes & the Camargue gardon 22 8076,www.canoe-france.com/ under 8s1.40€. machines; openweekendsonly.Admissionforadultsandover-8s is5.25€, La Bouscarasse Aquatropic, the garrigue(p. 177). cigales (cicadas)andthesmellof accompanied bythesoundof then batheinthecool,clearwater for apicnicontheriverbank, century St.-Nicolasbridge,stop aqueduct (p. 179)andthe12th- paddle underthePontduGard swim adistanceof25m).Youcan participants havetobeable for adultsandchildrenover6(all descents (8to30km)oftheriver Gardon offers2-hourto2-day enters theRhône.KayakVert Cévennes toBeaucaire,whereit don, whichruns133kmfromthe on theriver?SpecificallyGar- summer’s daythanmessingabout What betterwaytospendahot Berges duGardon,Collias, ★★ Kayak VertGardon 11:30am thenextday. under thestars,returningat a campfiresupperandnight bivouac tripsleaveat4:30pmfor For arealadventure,overnight are 30-minuteponyrides(10€). Little onesarenotleftout:there to 1111€,under-5sfree. from theendofMayto of August.Admissionforadultsis13€,ages5 Open MondaytoFriday10am 7pm,SaturdayandSunday10amto8pm, and inflatables,plusapicnicarea andrestaurant.Familyratesareavailable. on theD981.Thiswaterparkhas severalpoolsfeaturingwaterfalls,fountains marine.com TIP

AGE7&UP TheBestWaterparks ). Thishasindoorandoutdoorpoolswithslideswave 39chemindel’Hostellerie,Nîmes,( ( b

04 66225025

b 04 66 , www.bouscarasse.fr 22 1416 site forothers).Itonlysells shops intheSouth(seeweb- branch ofthechainwithseveral chocolates ondisplayatthis hundreds ofsweets,biscuitsand making yourselectionfromthe It canbesweetagonyindeed com Mortes, www.la-cure-gourmande. 23 GrandRueJeanJaurès,Aigues- La CureGourmande MC, V. Open 9am–7pmTues–Sun.Credit made plasticanimalfigurines. wooden toys,gamesandwell- medieval costumestotraditional tor outfits,woodenswordsand its stockthatrangesfromgladia- spoiling childrenforchoicewith the besttoyshopsinregion, Although it’ssmall,thisisoneof 8 placeAuxHerbes,Uzès, Au BoisdeMonCœur Shopping from 19€,childrenunder129.50€. Open Daily9am–7pmMar–Oct.Adm products madebyartisansfrom b

04 66383100 ), 8km from Uzès ,

★★ www.vert- b 04 66 11/1/10 2:08 PM

What to See & Do

Arles Market

old recipes (my favourites such delights as Arles nougat, include glacé fruits and fig or small squares of caramel fla- orange caramels), but grab a voured with Camargue salt, freebie from a passing sales cherry biscuits and the ubiquitous assistant. olives de Provence (small choco- Open Daily 9am–7pm. Credit MC, V. lates that look like olives). Open 9:30am–12:30pm and 2:30pm– Les Caprices de Marine 7pm Tues–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Sat. ★ FIND Credit MC, V. 21 rue des Suisses, Arles, b 04 90 91 21 08, www.lescapricesdemarine.fr Les Indiennes de Nîmes 2 boulevard des Arènes, Nîmes, b 04 This is the kind of sweet-shop 66 21 69 57; Place de la République, you always hope you might find Arles, b 04 90 18 21 52, www. in France—beautiful to look at indiennesdenimes.fr and full of unusual, old-style con- You might not want to don the fectionery. Proprietor Marie- full gardian get-up (moleskin Ange buys from local artisans, trousers, velvet jacket and black and will help you choose from

TIP The Best Local Markets Food & flower market: Boulevard des Lices, Arles, Sat morning. Food & flower market: Place aux Herbes, Uzès, Sat morning. Covered market: Les Halles, Rue Général Perrier, Nîmes, every morning. 185

10_683361-ch07.indd 185 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 186 186 7 Nîmes & the Camargue bioduzes.com which offercomfortingly peries andpizzerias(mostof of blandsnack-restaurants,cre- locals; anever-growingselection taurants dedicatedtolunching French mixofsolidregional res- Nîmes offerstheusualsouthern DINING FAMILY-FRIENDLY Open Daily9am–8pm.CreditMC,V. work. you canallwatchMartineat If you’rehereattherighttime, shaped orname-inscribedsoaps. Children willlovetheanimal- and seasonallythemedversions. organic range,askincarerange perfumed soaps,includingan the ownerMartine’shand-made Opened in2007,thisshopsells b 7 rueSalin,PlaceduDuché,Uzès, ★★ nerie duDuchéChantois Nature etSenteurs—Savon- noon and2–7pm.CreditMC,V. Open Mon3–7pm,Tues–Sat10am– marriages. special occasionssuchas adults, duringfestivalsandfor wear thetraditionaloutfits,asdo of thegarments.Localchildren dren’s versions(ages2andup) same family,thisfirmsellschil- Nîmes in1935,andstillthe Camargue cowboy.Foundedin your stayinthelandof may betheperfectsouvenirof skirt inavividProvençalfabric felt sombrero)butashirtor 04 66032537,www.lesavon

FIND

beef 66 700899 royalhotel-nimes.com Families willfindtheusualarray Nîmes &Around Michel Kayser’s such asMichelin-starredchef out optionsforgastronomes, kling oftrulyexcellentsplash- younger diners);andasprin- familiar menuchoicesfor Iberian-influenced Nîmes is a hive Iberian-influenced Nîmesisahive This authenticandlivelyslice of Nîmes, 3 boulevardAlphonseDaudet, La Bodeguita ground inthispartoftheworld. are, sadly,abitthinonthe More excitingdiningoptions ads, burgers,pizzasandpasta. serving upafamiliararrayofsal- zerias inandaroundNîmes, of fast-foodjoints,cafésandpiz- restaurants. rather decentseafood with gelateriesaswellsome la-Mer hasapromenadedotted of pizzerias,andStes-Maries-de- Mortes hasmorethanitsshare country—the famed you’re deepintosteakandpizza menu. DownintheCamargue, years, andoffersachild-friendly local foodformorethan30 local artists,hasbeenservingfine 00 town, ence toberemembered.In toddlers, butagourmetexperi- not agoodchoicewithtotsor town enroutetotheairport— MODERATE ) ishungwithpaintingsby isoneverymenu.Aigues- Le Magister b 04 66582829,www. ), about8kmfrom

★★ Alexandre (

b VALUE Camargue

04 667611

TAPAS ( b

04 11/1/10 2:08 PM of activity all year, and particu- their age/size/appetite. There is Family-Friendly Dining larly during the May Féria also a menu enfant (burger or (p. 171), when you’ll find yourself sausage and chips followed by rubbing shoulders with bullfight- ice cream for about 10€). It’s ing glitterati. It’s also fun to share quiet during the week and very tapas (olives, ham, shrimps, dif- busy on Saturdays, when the ferent kinds of cheese and sausage, Place aux Herbes’s must-see to mention just a few) with all the market (p. 185) takes place family and listen to the flamenco (although there’s plenty of room singers at the weekend. After for children to run around when they’ve eaten, children can run it packs up at about 1pm). among the shallow fountains on Open 9am–late daily. Main courses the adjoining Place d’Assas, built 9€–20€, children’s menu about 10€. to pay homage to Nemausa, the Credit MC, V. spring around which the city grew up. The restaurant is part of the Pâtisserie Courtois three-star Royal Hôtel, which has ★★★ FIND PATISSERIE been well refurbished and has a 8 place du Marché, Nîmes, b 04 66 fashionable new look (original 67 20 09 features, stone floors and white Everything is made on the prem- walls) but is noisy at the weekend. ises at this celebrated Nîmes Open Mon–Sat 7–11pm. Tapas from patisserie dating from 1892 and 5€ per dish. Credit MC, V. retaining its original interior. As well as take-away cakes, quiches Le Bananier and ice cream, it offers sit-down ★★ VALUE FAST FOOD meals, indoors or on the terrace. 16 place aux Herbes, Uzès, b 04 66 Try a traditional salade nîmoise, 22 50 68 a pâté nîmois (a beef and mutton Even the fussiest eaters will find pie resembling a small pork something to whet their appetite pie) and a dollop of brandade in this little café serving 25 sal- (mashed cod and potato; see ads, 36 pizzas, several types of below) followed by a nélusko quiche and 25 ice creams at the (a flat, round chocolate cake last count. Pizzas (also available filled with biscuit and praline, to take away) are bigger than the invented by the original owner). plates and easily feed two or If none of that tempts children, three children, depending on they can enjoy a hamburger and

FUN FACT Brandade de Morue This child-friendly Nîmes speciality combining cod, potatoes, garlic, milk, olive oil, mixed herbs and lemon is very simple to make: see www. languedocsun.com and click on ‘recipes’. Alternatively, buy the real deal from Brandade Raymond, 34 rue National, Nîmes (b 04 66 27 11 98, www. brandadedenimes.com). 187

10_683361-ch07.indd 187 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 188 188 7 Nîmes & the Camargue 07 22 postcards ofthepainting,which de laNuit; inspiration forVanGogh’s Afew doorsdownisthe nal tory—this squarewastheorigi- coming hereforthesenseofhis- Camargue beefbutyou’rereally usual locallyinspiredsaladsand hours. Themenufeaturesthe buggies, anditslongopening terrace, handyforthosewith place standsoutforitsspacious taurants onPlaceduForum;this You caneatwellinalltheres- 12 placeduForum,Arles, Le BistroArlesién Arles Amenities children’s menu7€.CreditMC,V. and Aug).Maincourses7€–15€, Open Daily8am–7pm(to11pmJuly on thepedestrianisedsquare. there’s plentyofroomoutside or parentswithbuggies,but cramped forenergeticyoungsters (about 7€).Insideit’sabit two-course children’smenu frites plusanicecreamfromthe stallholder andsitintheshadeon lovely picnicideaistobuyawholespit-roastchickenwithpotatoesfrom If youareinUzèsfortheSaturdaymarketPlaceauxHerbes,a wall oftheplush still seeoneofitscolumnsinthe Pinus. and-seek behindthechestnuttrees. admiring thecountrysideinhazysunlightwhilechildrencanplayhide- MODERATE TIP Roman forum PicnicWithaView nearbyshopssell Hôtel Nord , andyoucan

PROVENCAL b 04 9096 Café 34 56 Open Mon–Sat8am–7pm.Main also servesalads,teasandcakes. the flower-filledgarden.They about 8€beforerunningaround followed byasweetcrepefor munch ahamandcheesegalette and goats’cheese.Childrencan vençale withaubergine,tomato Gogh, Iespeciallylovethepro- this crêperieintheEspaceVan Among thetastygalettesservedat Espace VanGogh,Arles, Les 2Suds courses 8€–14€.CreditMC,V. Open Daily7:30am–12:30am.Main still-very-yellow original. children cancomparewiththe Armand Arnal, a protégé of Alain Armand Arnal,aprotégéofAlain country ispresidedoverby rant intheheartofCamargue This fashionableorganicrestau- chassagnette.fr D36, Sambuc, 12kmsouthofArleson Domaine del’Armellière,Routedu La Chassagnette The Camargue Credit MC,V. courses 5€–11€;children’smenu8€. Promenade desMarronniers, INEXPENSIVE EXPENSIVE b 04 90972696,www.

★

FIND

★★★

CREPERIE b 04 9093

GREEN 11/1/10 2:08 PM

MODERATE Family-Friendly Accommodation El Campo ★★ FIND 13 rue Victor Hugo, Stes-Maries-de- la-Mer, b 04 90 97 84 11, www. elcampo.camargue.fr This is the best place to come to hear authentic Gypsy flamenco (call for details of days and times) and eat traditional Cam- argue food. Our meal of bull steak and frites followed by creamy, cocoa-rich chocolate ice cream was far better (and cheaper) than the equivalent we ate in a ‘top’ restaurant just up Soleileis Ice-Cream Parlour, Arles the road. Open Daily 8am–12:30am (except Ducasse, who completed his Wed in June). Main courses 10€– apprenticeship in New York and 16€, children’s menu 12€. Credit Japan. This is reflected in his MC, V. Amenities dishes, which are simple, fresh and cooked to perfection. Food is sourced locally, and all vegetables FAMILY-FRIENDLY and herbs are grown in the garden. Children’s food is available ACCOMMODATION on request—and you can guaran- tee it won’t be burger and chips. Nîmes and Arles have their com- You can also just pop in for a cup plement of good-quality hotels, of tea, pick your own herbs, wan- but neither town is an ideal base der around the garden or browse for a longer family hotel as kids the library full of books on gas- will find hotels in city streets a tronomy, the Camargue and art. bit too confining for comfort. Open Thurs–Tues noon–2pm and For a week or more, you might 8–10pm. Main courses 20€–35€. want to consider seeking out a Credit MC, V. Amenities self-catering gîte with a pool in

TIP The Best Ice Cream Stop The very best ice cream shop in this region is Arles’s Soleileis (9 rue Docteur Fanton), where flavours include fig, plum and chocolate. If you have time (and room), sit outside and enjoy a delectable Trio de Georges—spicy bread with ginger, cinnamon and vanilla ice cream topped with a raspberry coulis. In Nîmes, head for Patisserie Courtois (p. 187), and in Aigues-Mortes for Bella Vista or Palais de la Glace, both just inside the main gate on Rue Jean Jaurès. 189

10_683361-ch07.indd 189 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 190 190 7 Nîmes & the Camargue another excellentalternative. big swimmingpools)offer mobile homeparks(manywith appointed campingsitesand seaside placestostay,andwell- Camargue, thereareplentiful 66 680320,www.hinimes.com country hotel(try Amenities room. Breakfast3.60€.CreditMC,V. Rooms 20.Rates49€forfour-bed the centreoftown. and aregularbusservicefrom on arrival.Thereiscarparking membership canbepurchased ing Internationaltostayherebut You needtobelongHostell- such astreasurehuntsforguests. and regularlyorganiseactivities plenty ofideasforsightseeing and thefriendlystaffwilloffer hire bikestoexplorethearea, little botanicalgarden.Youcan regional aromaticplantsinthe ing frameoridentifyingthe have funplayingontheclimb- room forsixtents.Childrencan shower andWC.Thereisalso ‘family’ roomswithensuite now offersablockoffour-bed youth hostelwasrenovatedand birthday, thisfamily-friendly To celebrateitsrecent70th nesse, about4kmfromNîmes, 257 chemindel’AubergeJeu- Nîmes Auberge deJeunesse Nîmes &Around hotels.com www.gites-de-france.fr the surroundingcountryside(try MODERATE

★ ). Downinthe

www.logis

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b 04 52 52,www.hotel-julescesar.fr 9 boulevarddesLices,Arles, Hôtel JulesCésar Arles Amenities ble, extrabedfrom30€.CreditMC,V. Rooms 5suitesRatesfrom150€dou- fab icecreamparlournextdoor. surrounding village,aswella within toddlingdistanceinthe there arelotsofgreatrestaurants have togooutfordinner,but in lessclementseasons).You’ll in aprettycourtyard(orindoors noon teaareservedinsummer tow. Breakfast,lunchandafter- you haveboisteroustoddlersin tifully decoratedforcomfortif though perhapsalittletoobeau- lio ofsuitesaregreatforfamilies, value formoney,anditsportfo- This verystylishretreatissuperb duvillage.com b 10 ruedu8May1945,St.-Remy, Maison duVillage dren’s menusat 13.50€. Lou Marques,whichofferschil- cally, arenownedrestaurant, listed chapeland,morepracti- oasis inthecity.Itevenhasa making itasurprisinglytranquil garden withitsheatedpool— rooms facetheMediterranean street inthecentreofArles,all Although it’ssituatedonabusy atmosphere andfriendlystaff. for families,withitsrelaxed 17th-century conventisthebest hotel occupyingaconverted in thisregion,four-star Of severalgoodupmarkethotels EXPENSIVE 04 32606820,www.lamaison

In room

★ b 04 90

11/1/10 2:08 PM If it’s full, another good an art gallery. There’s no lift, but Family-Friendly Accommodation option in the area is the Mas de the stairs are wide and there are Peint in Le Sambuc (b 04 90 97 just two floors. The main entrance 20 62, www.masdepeint.com), opens directly onto a road, so which has rooms sleeping up to you’ll have to watch little ones. four people. Rooms 28. Rates Doubles 55€–60€, Rooms 60. Rates 160€–385€. Break- rooms for three 70€–80€, rooms for fast 20€. Extra bed 50€, cot free. four 85€–95€. Cot free. Credit MC, Credit MC, V. Amenities V. In room In room The Camargue INSIDER TIP With its excellent views over MODERATE Arles’s Roman remains, the inex- L’Auberge Cavalière pensive Hôtel le Calendal ★★★ FIND (b 04 90 96 11 89, www.le calendal.com) is a good family- Route d’Arles (D570), Stes-Maries- friendly alternative to the Jules de-la-Mer, b 04 90 97 88 88, www. César. Although it doesn’t have a aubergecavaliere.com pool, children are kept entertained For an authentic Camargue expe- with toys, books and English-lan- rience in comfortable surround- guage DVDs. Doubles from 109€, ings, this is the place to come. It’s family quad rooms from 129€. a four-star hotel offering accommodation in individual cabanes de INEXPENSIVE gardian (smaller versions of tradi- Hotel du Musée ★★ FIND tional Camargue homes) comprising a double bed on the 11 rue du Grand Prieuré, Arles, b 04 90 93 88 88, www.hoteldumusee. ground floor and one or two beds com on a mezzanine. These are only suitable for older children, how- This 16th-century former home ever, as the staircase is steep— of the lords of Someyre is a con- families with younger children venient place to lay your head in should opt for a different style of central Arles, with several rooms room. You should also note that sleeping three and four. It’s situ- the hotel is not fenced off from ated between the Musée Réattu, the water that surrounds it. with its Picasso collection, and the The restaurant is well regarded, Roman baths, and is a stone’s and owner Delphine, who has throw from the banks of the three children of her own, will Rhône, which is good for an early discuss with children what they evening stroll. Breakfast is taken would like to eat or try. Best of all, on a pretty patio and there is also

FUN FACT Horses Change Colour Camargue horses are born black and turn white as they grow older. 191

10_683361-ch07.indd 191 11/1/10 2:08 PM 10_683361-ch07.indd 192 192 7 Nîmes & the Camargue one wearshardhats. instructors whoinsistthatevery- one intheareawithstate-qualified crin-blanc.com for twoadults, childrenaged Places 150.Ratesfrom35€perday visits tolocalplacesofinterest. diving lessons,carriagetripsand will alsoorganisehorse-riding, August). Thefriendlyproprietors for 3-to10-year-oldsinJulyand in theminiclub(hostingactivities playground ormakingnewamis ping-pong, runningriotinthe children), playingtennisand heated pools(onespecificallyfor splashing aroundinthetwo on request).Childrenenjoy (cots andhighchairsareavailable most sleepinguptosixpeople tion inmobilehomesorchalets, on abudget,withaccommoda- this campsiteisgreatforfamilies In theheartofCamargue, b CD 37HameaudeSaliers,Albaron, ★★★ Camping CrinBlanc 240€. CreditMC,V.Amenities fast 14€.Cotsfree.Triples180€– Rooms 44. ( the hotelhasitsownridingstables cavaliere.camargue.fr INSIDER TIP b INEXPENSIVE 04 66874878,www.camping- Blanc from 58€. pont-blanc.camargue.fr). Rates nearby pool, youcan’tgowrongwiththe ence intwo-starstyle,alsowitha For asimilarbutcheaperexperi-

06 09542440 Inroom

VALUE ( Hôtellerie duPont b 04 90978911,www. Rates 140€–195€.Break- ,

www.ecuries-

)—the only )—the only

(7 route de l’Abrivado, Le Sambuc, (7 routedel’Abrivado,LeSambuc, 60, www.massaintgermain.fr than 300 years, and he will than 300years,andhewill ily havefarmedhereformore offers B&B.OwnerPierre’sfam- which sleepsuptoseven,andalso self-catering, TV-freegîtes,oneof ing riceandcereals.Ithasfour merino sheep,alongwithgrow- raising horses,bullsandArles manadier (rancher)isallabout: want tofindoutwhatbeinga Stay atthismas(farm)ifyou Villeneuve-Camargue, Mas St.-Germain In room Amenities for specialoffers.CreditMC,V. 7–15, tentpitchandcar;seewebsite ties Cash orbanktransferonly.Ameni- End-of-stay cleaning25€.Credit Rates Gîte480€–500€perweek. b rants inthearea:try remote, therearesomegoodrestau- Althoughthisplaceisquite born foalsfrolickinginthefields. Come inApriltoseethenew- some French)oronhorseback. 4WD (you’llneedtounderstand the ÉtangdeVaccarès,inhis property, situatedonthebanksof proudly showyouaroundthe INSIDER TIP

and tworesidentdonkeys. ing duMasdeMourgues and morerustic,headfor things alittleless‘organised’ camping equipment,orprefer If youprefertobringyourown ( few kilometresawayinVauvert English couple,ithas70pitches, mourgues.com). Runbyafriendly 04 90972010 b

04 66733088,www.masde Inroom

L’Estrambord b

04 909700

Camp-

, a , a

11/1/10 2:08 PM

8 Avignon & the Vaucluse

11_683361-ch08.indd 193 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 194 194 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse W that—despite thebestefforts oftravelwritersandthetourist will enjoytheleisurelypaceinthisbeautifulpartofsouthern France with cars,bikesandevengardensloadedontheirdecks.Families ful Provençalmarketsandwatchcargobargeschuggingup theRhône, climb rockyhillsides,withadonkeytocarryyourpicnic, visit colour- Luberon, theVaucluseisveryheartofProvence.Here, youcan yourself takingpartintheTour deFranceasyoucycleupthekiller land-locked regionhasmuch toofferactivefamilies.Youcanimagine kled bysteepmountains,river valleysandtimelesshillvillages,this industry—remains tranquil. But it’snotallaboutlazingabout:wrin- AVIGNON &THEVAUCLUSE LANGUEDOC- LANGUEDOC- ROUSSILLON ROUSSILLON N580 N100 Pierrelatte Pierrelatte Avignon Marseille les-Avignon lez-Avignon E15 Piolenc Piolenc FRANCE Villeneuve- Saint-Martin Saint-Martin A9 12 Chateauneuf- Chateauneuf- -de-Crau -de-Crau 14 Rhône ith itswesternbordersmarkedbythewidewetribbon of the 1 Orange Orange E15 A7 13 Bollene Bollene du-Pape du-Pape 2 Chateaurenard Chateaurenard Area of detail D99 3 Avignon

ITALY du Comtat Serignan du Comtat Serignan anditseasternbythefertilefieldsvineyardsof 11 Dentelles deMontmirail 8 Cristallerie desPapes 22 Cirque Alexis Gruss2 Bénédiction14 Chartreuse duVal de Canoe Evasion 21 Balade enKayak 12 Attractions Nice N7 4 D976 Sorgues Sorgues 5 Vaison-la-Romaine 15 6 D977 D950 D942 Provence Provence 20 Salon-de- Salon-de- D569 19 10 Valreas Valreas N7 Senas Senas 21 D541 Cavaillon Cavaillon D938 D22 Aubignan Aubignan la-Sorgue Isle-sur- la-Sorgue Isle-sur- Carpentras Carpentras 16 D994 N100 Parc Naturel RégionalduLuberon 28 Musée delaLavande 24 Desplans7 Musée Archeologique Theo Mont Ventoux 9 Maison NataledeJean-HenriFabre 3 Fort 13 &Abbaye deSt.-André Ferme auxCrocodiles 1 8 Pernes-les-Fontaines Pernes-les-Fontaines D2 E714 A7 17 D938 18 7 22 PROVENCE-ALPES Gordes Gordes CÔ CÔTE D’AZUR N7 Condorcet Condorcet TE D'AZU TE D'AZU RRHÔNE-ALPES Eygaliers Eygaliers HÔ 23 25 24 NE-ALPES Ventoux Ventoux Gargas Gargas 0 10km 0 D973 Mont D543 R 9 Villelaure Villelaure Verclause Verclause 26 Aurel Aurel D943 Aulan Aulan La Petite Fontaine 17 Chez Serge 16 Dining Village desBories23 Théâtre Antiqued’Orange 4 Sentiers desOchres 29 deBat18 Accompagnéd’unAne Randonnée Pedestre Passerelle desCîmes20 Park Inn5 Mas delaPierre duCoq10 La Sommellerie11 Domaine desAndeols26 Camping Le Luberon 27 Camping La Montagne15 Aerotel La Sorguette 19 Accommodation Les CuisinesduChâteau25 Le Festival 6 27 Apt Apt Villars Villars 28 Chauvac Chauvac 10 mi 29 Castellet Castellet Pertuis Pertuis A51 D973 E712 11/1/10 2:09 PM slopes of Mont Ventoux, spend an afternoon kayaking down the Visitor Information Durance or bash across the Vaucluse hinterland in a Mad Max-style buggy. And then sit back and draw breath, just as the Romans did here before conquering the rest of Gaul

VISITOR By Train Eurostar (p. 32) has INFORMATION direct services to Avignon from London St. Pancras Interna- tional, taking between 6 and 7 The Vaucluse Regional Tour- hours, July to September, once ism Committee runs the website weekly. TGVs (www.sncf.com) www.provenceguide.com, with also connect Avignon with Mar- listings of attractions and events, seille, where you can link with a practical guide and links to TER regional trains (www. ter- accommodation providers. Even sncf.com) to destinations east more useful for families is www. and north of Marseille. provence-enfamille.com, also Avignon’s TGV station is resourced by the VRTC. about 3km from the old-town Where there isn’t a tourist centre—a taxi should cost office in evidence, seek out the about 10€. mairie (town hall) or local syndicat d’initiative for information— By Car See p. 30. even the smallest towns usually have one or both. Orientation

Getting There The A7 (‘Autoroute du Soleil’) follows the Rhône valley past By Air Flybe (p. 29) flies from Orange, then passes southeast of Southampton, Exeter, Birming- Avignon as it heads toward ham and Manchester to Avignon Salon-de-Provence and Mar- in about 2 hours. Jet2 (p. 29) seille. If you don’t like auto- connects with Leeds. The airport routes, the slower (and toll-free) is around 6km east of the city N7 route nationale runs more or centre at 141 allée de la Char- less parallel to the A7, passing treuse (b 04 90 81 51 51, www. through Orange and Avignon. avignon.aeroport.fr). Annoyingly, From these main routes, two there are no shuttle buses into smaller routes nationales cut east town, but taxis await each flight into the heartland of the Vau- on a rank right outside the cluse—the D94/D994, which Arrivals hall. Ryanair (p. 29) leaves the Rhône north of flies from London Stansted to Orange and passes through Nîmes, about 40 minutes’ drive Nyons and Serres on its way to from Avignon. Gap; and the N100, which runs east from Avignon through Apt 195

11_683361-ch08.indd 195 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 196 196 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse villages—is generallyexcellent. and hotelsaswelltowns Signposting—to attractions with thesemainthoroughfares. communities inthehinterland tine) roadsconnectssmaller picturesque (butoftenserpen- route westofDigne-les-Bains. to connectwiththeA51auto- INSIDER TIP gloves andwoollyhatsifyou’re very quickly.Sopackfleeces, from thenorthitcangetchilly blows downtheRhônevalley 0°C inwinter,andwhenthewind inland regionoftendropbelow Riviera, temperaturesinthis Mediterranean climatewiththe Although theVauclusesharesa of March. between Decemberandtheend planning tovisitanytime A webofsmallerandmore Friday and9amto12:30pmSaturday.InOrange,LaPoste( Président Kennedy( ch-avignon.fr open noontomidnight. Shopping: Post Offices: town. Grand Rue,isthemostcentral,butthereareplentyinotherpartsof Pharmacies: Internet Cafés: Hospitals: Banks: 11 00 Hospitalier LouisGiorgi( 82 lique, Avignon. ), Avignon.InOrange,PharmacieduCentre( ) isat679boulevardEdouardDaladier. Fast Facts:Avignon&theVaucluse SociétéGénérale( Seep. 212and,formarkets,p. 212. CentreHospitalierGénéral( ), 305rueRaoulFollereau,Avignon.InOrange,Centre Pharmaciedel’Universite,10routeLyon( ThemostcentralAvignonpostofficeisat4coursdu LeSite,25rueCarnot( b

04 90275410 b ) 04 901122 b

04 90145150 ), open8:30amto6pmMonday dent familieswhowantto services arelimited,soindepen- vices inthehinterland,andbus are nootherpassengerrailser- south toMontpellier,butthere points east,andalsotakeyou Avignon withMarseilleand TGV trainslinkOrangeand Getting Around unfit mumsanddads). tough onbothlittlelegsand Rhône valley,cyclingcanbe from thelevelfieldsof bike-hire firms(thoughaway of localbusservices,taxisand tourist officescanprovidedetails National/Citer (p. 36).Local Europcar, Sixt,Adaand available viaAvis,Hertz,Budget, airport andinthecitycentre)is explore reallyneedacar. Car hireinAvignon(atthe ), AvenuedeLavoisier. b b

04 90271200 ) isat9ruedelaRépub-

04 327533 b

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04 908201 b ), Avignon,

04 9011 , www. ), 160 11/1/10 2:09 PM WHAT TO SEE & DO All summer long you can take What to See & Do your family back to the 13th Children’s Top 10 century at the castle of Mornas Attractions in the Haute Vaucluse. Older children, boys especially, will 1 Wandering along country enjoy the demonstrations of lanes with a docile donkey to carry swordplay and quarterstaff com- your lunch, water and kit (p. 210). bat by actors in historical attire. 2 Watching scaly giants at the The storytelling is in French, but Ferme aux Crocodiles (p. 203). the tales are still amusing even if you don’t understand everything. 3 Joining the circus for a day at Apr–Sept (10am–5pm Apr–June Sat, the Château du Cirque in Pio- Sun and public holidays; July–Sept lenc (p. 203). daily); five performances daily. Adm 7€ adults, 5€ under-12s. 4 Messing about in boats on the Rhône (p. 209) or the Marché Médievale ★★ Sorgue (p. 209). ALL AGES 5 Seeing the world from tree- Mornas, b 04 90 37 01 26, www. top height at the Passerelle des mornas.fr/marche-medieval.htm Cîmes (p. 210). They’re clearly fond of time-travel 6 Walking to the end of the in Mornas when, at the beginning famous Pont St.-Bénezet, sym- of July, knights in armour, trou- bol of Avignon (p. 206). badours, jugglers and elegantly dressed ladies and their retinue 7 Dreaming of a vanished take over the town for a day, empire at the Roman theatre in transforming it into a medieval Orange (p. 206). market. The flower-adorned 8 Time-travelling back to the streets are lined with stalls and Stone Age at the Village des pavilions selling food and drink Bories (p. 207). (not all medieval in flavour). First Sun in July. Adm Free. 9 Exploring tiny beasts at Jean- Henri Fabre’s Jardin des Insectes Festival de la Sorgue ★★ (p. 204). ALL AGES 0 Looking down from Mont Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and around, b 04 Ventoux, the giant of the Vau- 90 38 04 78, www.oti-delasorgue.fr cluse (p. 202). Each summer the villages along the Sorgue, including Isle-sur-la- Child-friendly Events & Sorgue, La Thor and Fontaine Entertainment de Vaucluse, celebrate their his- Forteresse de Mornas Visites tory and heritage at this fun (and Animées ★★ ALL AGES mostly free) event during which Mornas, b 04 90 37 01 26, www. you can learn how to catch river- forteresse-de-mornas.com fish the old-fashioned way, watch 197

11_683361-ch08.indd 197 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 198 198 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse 14 14,www.festival-avignon.com more likelytoentertain,with has lotsofoutdoorcafétables. free isPlaced’Horloge,which The bestplacetowatchthemfor liven upyourdayinAvignon. all ofwhomareguaranteedto stilt-walkers andstreetmusicians, puppeteers, fire-eaters,jugglers, attracts drovesofmimeartists, But bestofall,thefestival venues, manyofthemoutdoors. more than500actsat100-plus for someevents. performances free;entrancecharge Middle 2weeksinJuly.AdmStreet festival, of Britishchildren,butthefringe arts festivalwillgoovertheheads formances atProvence’sbiggest Some ofthemorepompousper- Various venues,Avignon, AGE10&UP Festival d’Avignon 1–31 July.AdmFree(mostevents). on bric-a-bracofallkinds. der theirholidaypocketmoney cante wherechildrencansquan- least oneopen-airfoiredebro- market. There’salsousuallyat and visitatraditionalfloating a ‘battleofflowers’ontheriver, a night-timenauticalparadeand symbol. Forcurrentlistings,you canalsoconsult For English-languagefilms,lookforthe‘VO’(versionoriginale) 90 826536 Utopia laManutention, Le Femina, Cinéma CésarI&II, Avignon PublicOff . 58coursGambetta,Cavaillon, English-language Cinemas

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04 9014 12 rueScudéry,Apt, 4ruedesEscaliersSte-Anne,Avignon, , is Luberon www.ot-apt.fr pernes-les-fontaines.fr National Park;p. 204),andthe big village.Its whether it’sasmalltownor Apt can’tmakeupitsmind Tourist office: Apt Cities &Towns Mid-Aug. AdmFree. yards oftheoldvillagecentre. take overthesquareandcourt- from morethan30companies dancers, acrobatsandmusicians formers, marionettetheatres, given thatit’sfree.Circusper- perfect forchildren,especially val ofstreetmusicandtheatreis This well-knownsummerfesti- taines, Various venues,Pernes-lesFon- Font’Arts truffles, aswelllavenderoil. icacies ascandiedcherriesand are crammedwithsuchlocaldel- for aweek’sself-catering;stalls area tostockupforapicnicor is oneofthebestplacesin the Apt isalsothemaingatewayto Parc NaturelRégionaldu

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04 906131,www.ville- 08 928928

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11/1/10 2:09 PM

AVIGNON What to See & Do

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Attractions Dining Grands Bateaux de Provence 6 La Fourchette 5 IITALYTALY Musée Lapidaire 7 La Mirande 3 FRANCE

Palais des Pâpes 4 Restaurant à Deux Pas Avignon du Potager 2 Pont St.-Bénezet 1 Nice Marseille Accommodation Hôtel Cloître St.-Louis 8

dramatic ochre landscapes of the wearing out too much shoe Colorado de Rustrel are close at leather. It’s really two cities for hand too. the price of one—the medieval city, on the east bank of the Avignon ★★★ wide Rhône, and the slightly Tourist office: b 04 32 74 32 74, newer (600-year-old) Villeneuve www.avignon-tourisme.com lez Avignon on the opposite bank, with a beautifully pre- Its famous bridge aside, Avignon served 14th-century Benedictine is one of the most charming cit- chartreuse (charterhouse; p. 205) ies in France, with excellent res- and a hilltop castle, Fort St.- taurants, plenty of pavement André (p. 204). A stroll out to cafés and just enough sightseeing the end of the famous to fill a few days without 199

11_683361-ch08.indd 199 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 200 200 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse breath away. over theoldtownwilltakeyour des Pâpes Pont St.-Bénezet river, buttheviewof bridge nolongercrossesthe mandatory—this 900-year-old Avignon fromtheRhoneriver INSIDER TIP 12–17s, under12sfree. 1.60€ foradults,0.90€ Philip theFair.Admissionis neuve lezAvignon,builtbyKing 13th-century 100 steepstairstothetopof and theRhône,climbmorethan For astunningviewofAvignon Bel hunting, andlaterdied. cursed theKing—ayearlaterPhilipwasgoredbyawildboarwhileout Jacques deMolay,burnedatthestake.Withhisdyingbreath,Molay Code fame)andin1313hehadtheGrandMasterofTemplars, set aboutdestroyingthepowerofKnightsTemplar(of ance ofthepowerPopeandHolyRomanEmpire.In1307,he dence. PhilipfortifiedVilleneuvelezAvignontosymboliseFrenchdefi- when Scotland,ledbyRoberttheBruce,wasbattlingforindepen- between ScotlandandFrance.Thissecrettreatywassignedin1294 patriotic Scotsrememberhimasthefounderof‘AuldAlliance’ made enemiesofthePope,EnglishandKnightsTemplar,but Philip theFair(1268–1314)—so-calledbecauseofhisgoodlooks— ( b 04 32700857)inVille- (p. 206)looming Tour Philippele (p. 206) is King PhiliptheFair Palais www.carpentras-ventoux.com Dieu, oneoftheliveliestin market in favourofanamblearoundits feel guiltyaboutbypassingthese pressive Romanarch,butdon’t France) andasingularlyunim- gogue (theoldeststillinuse ings, includingamedievalsyna- does haveitsshareofoldbuild- attractions—the historiccentre its veryabsenceofmust-see The charmofCarpentrasliesin Tourist office: Carpentras browse atthe attractively sleepystreetsanda in theCourdel’Hôtel

b ★ Friday-morning 04 90630078, Da Vinci

11/1/10 2:09 PM What to See & Do Vaucluse. Of most interest to Orange ★★ children is the fact that Carpen- Tourist office: b 04 90 34 70 88, tras is the Vaucluse’s ville sucrée www.otorange.fr (‘city of sweets’), known for its The small town of Orange is lit- tooth-rotting delicacies for cen- erally overshadowed by the gran- turies. The town’s most famous deur of its past; the huge Roman sugary speciality is the berlingot, theatre (p. 206) is the best- an old-fashioned, pyramid- preserved in Europe, and the shaped, hard sugar sweet in any grandiose Arc de Triomphe of six flavours—mint, coffee, (p. 207) the third-largest on the lemon, aniseed, melon and continent. strawberry. Although you may well get the feeling that not a lot has INSIDER TIP happened in Orange since the The Carpentras Berlingot Romans left, it’s pleasant to card (free from the tourist office stroll past the triumphal arch, for anyone staying one night or then up the Colline d’Eutrope more in the area) gives families a for a swim, a picnic and a free range of discounts at shops and view of the theatre from above. restaurants and for leisure activi- Don’t miss the lively market on ties in and around town. Addi- Place Georges Clemenceau (in tionally, at 11am every Monday in July and August the tourist office front of the cathedral) on Thurs- offers card-holders a free glass day mornings, where, as well as of wine (or non-alcoholic sirop), a all the olives, cheeses, fresh fruit tasting of local products and a and vegetables that you could goodie bag for children. possibly want, you’ll find newly hatched chicks, ducklings and baby rabbits. INSIDER TIP Young children will love Le Jar- Vaison-la-Romaine ★★★ ditrain (b 04 90 40 45 18, www. ALL AGES lejarditrain.com) in St. Didier, Tourist office: b 04 90 36 02 11, 6km southeast of Carpentras on www.vaison-la-romaine.com RD4/RD39, where 25 miniature trains putter through a garden of You don’t need to be hooked on scale-model landscapes com- history to be impressed by the plete with stations, roads and vil- ancient Roman theatre, with its lages. It’s open Monday to rows of stone benches and tow- Friday, April to June and Sep- ering stone columns, at Vaison- tember, 2:30pm to 6pm; July and la-Romaine—definitely the most August from Monday to Friday family-friendly heritage site in 10:30am to midday and 3pm to 6:30pm. Admission for adults is the Vaucluse. The old quarter, 6€, for 3–12s 4€. with its chic 17th-century town houses and flower-filled courtyards, is traffic free, so good for a wander, while the more 201

11_683361-ch08.indd 201 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 202 202 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse dramatic 12th-century crossing theOuvèzeriverand pont romain(Romanbridge) fit inavisittothe2,000-year-old pavement cafés.Makesureyou modern parthasheapsoflively Mont Ventoux pentras andVaison-la-Romaine. roughly midwaybetweenCar- the MontVentouxmassif, Dentelles areinthefoothillsof lows’ neststochalkcliffs.The tiny hillvillagesclinglikeswal- ture mountainrangeinwhich These ‘littleteeth’formaminia- www.web-provence.com Dentelles deMontmirail Spectacular Views Natural Wonders& city wasabandonedaftertheEmpirecollapsedin5thcentury Vaison’s storywillappealtoIndianaJonesfans.TheRoman the museumnearby. ancient theatrearecopiesoftheoriginalsfoundonsite,whichnowin archaeologists asrecently1907.Thestatuesthatyouseearoundthe ually vanishedbeneathmudcarriedbytheOuvèze,onlytoberediscovered FUN FACT HiddenbyMud castle

★★ . giant—in winterit’susually the Vaucluselikeawhite-headed Ventoux dominatesanddefines At 1,909m(6,236ft),Mont com D974, www.ventoux-en-provence. 30km northeastofCarpentrason Mont Ventoux plenty ofcaféorpicnicstops. children about11andup)with adventurous walks(suitablefor there aresomeeasybutsoftly (2,400 ft)abovesealevel—and highest pointisonly730m hardly qualifyasmountains—the try roads.Bylocalstandards,they pared forsomeserpentinecoun- D938 atMalaucene,andbepre- To getthere,turnwestoffthe

★★★ AD andgrad- 11/1/10 2:09 PM What to See & Do Pretty Roussillon

With its old stone houses painted in a dozen shades of mellow yellow, red and orange dug from the ochre quarries nearby, Roussil- lon (tourist office: b 04 90 05 60 25, www.roussillon-provence.com) is the prettiest village in the Vaucluse, bar none. Perched on a hilltop, it has steep streets that can challenge little legs and buggy-pushers. It’s very much a tourist town these days, and every other building, it seems, is a boutique or a smart restaurant. Nearby, the colourful hilltop village of Gordes is home to one of the most impressive castles in the Vaucluse.

snow-capped, while in summer or join a theatrical makeup the bare limestone peak glows workshop in a 2-hour session (2 white. You can drive to the top, to 4pm) as part of a full-day and the lower slopes are a hot- visit. Older children who really bed of outdoor activities in sum- want to learn the tricks of the mer and winter. circus can even sign up for a Mont Ventoux is also notori- 1-week residential course. ous as the toughest stage finish Open mid-May–Sept, Tues–Sun of the world’s toughest cycle 10am–5pm. Adm 18€, children 3–12 race, the Tour de France, and 16€ (25€/20€ at weekends). Ameni- has defeated some of the world’s ties best cyclists (including British racer Tom Simpson, who col- Ferme aux Crocodiles ★★★ lapsed and died on the mountain ALL AGES in 1967). Les Blachettes, Pierrelatte, north of Orange via RN7 or A7 (leave autoroute Animal Parks at Bollène exit), b 04 75 04 33 73, www.lafermeauxcrocodiles.com Cirque Alexis Gruss ★★★ ALL AGES Listen to your children as they ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the little crocs Château du Cirque, N7, Piolenc, 6km northwest of Orange, b 04 90 29 49 that hatch out in the incubators. 49, www.alexis-gruss.com The Crocodile Farm is a huge tropical greenhouse that is home You can meet elephants, watch to more than 400 rare crocodil- splendid stallions being put ians, ranging from newly through their paces and ride in a hatched 6-inchers fresh from the horse-drawn carriage at the park’s incubators to 2m (6 ft) headquarters of one of the monsters, as well as a group of world’s oldest circuses. Children giant tortoises from the Sey- can also learn the basics of jug- chelles and flocks of tropical gling, tightrope walking and tra- birds. All staff speak English, peze in a circus-arts workshop, and all the information is 203

11_683361-ch08.indd 203 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 204 204 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse musee-jeanhenrifabre.com Credit Cashonly.Amenities children 5–143€,under-5sfree. Sept daily10am–7pm.Adm3.50€, 12:30pm and1:30pm–5pm;June- Open Feb–MayandOct–Dec11am– about them. so youmightaswelllearn is crowdedwithcreepie-crawlies, dragonflies andmore.Provence ets, locusts,ants,masonbees, that Fabrelovedsomuch:crick- micro-world ofthepetitesbêtes with aguidedsafariintothe is outside,intheinsectgarden, Provence. However,therealfun back into19th-century and utensils,itoffersaglimpse pans andotherhouseholdtools simple woodenfurniture,copper preserved. Withitsfireplace, Jean-Henri Fabre,islovingly home ofProvence’s‘insectman’, favourites. Thebirthplaceand This isoneofourfamily du Comtat, St.-Leons, Routed’Orange,Serignan Fabre Maison NataledeJean-Henri children 3–128€.Amenities 9:30am–5pm Oct–Feb.Adm12.50€, Open Daily9:30am–7pmMar–Sept, morning orafternoon. own interestedforawhole little monstersheretokeepyour rare rainyday—thereareenough back forfamiliesifyouhita indoors, it’sanexcellentfall- multilingual. Sinceit’smostly

★★★ b 04 90305762,www.

ALLAGES

starting inBonnieuxand 04 4200,www.parcduluberon.fr 35, www.gard-provençal.com cloaked limestonevalleysonthe woodland, pastureandcedar- comprises almost1,120sqkmof southeast corneroftheVaucluse This regionalnaturalparkinthe HQ), PlaceJean-Jaurès,Apt, Maison duParcLuberon(park Luberon Parc NaturelRégionaldu 6 free.CreditMC,V. Oct–Mar. Adm6.50€,childrenunder Apr–Sept, 10am–noonand2–5pm Open 10am–12:30pmand2–6pm or thecastlebattlements. tryside fromthegardenterrace river andthesurroundingcoun- fantastic viewofAvignon,the anate abbeygardens.There’sa tains beautifullylaidoutItali- Fort Saint-André,whichcon- inside thewallsofmedieval the troopofresidentkittens Toddlers canrompandchase Villeneuve lezAvignon, Fort &AbbayedeSt.-André & Gardens Natural Reserves,Parks (3,690 ft)peakof hills, overlookedbythe1,125m southern slopesoftheLuberon Nègre friendly isthe of hikingtrails;themostfamily- can exploretheparkonachoice and activeyourfamilyis,you Depending onhowold,tough flowers, reptilesandmammals. many otherbirds,butterflies, rare speciesofeagle,owland . It’shometoanarrayof

★

AGE5&UP cedar foresttrail Mourre b 04 902545 b 04 90 11/1/10 2:09 PM

What to See & Do FUN FACT This Way Up Look out for strange symbols cut into the cornerstones of the Chartreuse’s walls. When the monastery was being built, none of the builders knew how to read, so Ikea-style instructions were cut into the stone to show them where to put each block. Hence, an arrow-like mark might mean ‘this way up, stupid’.

meandering for 6km through The vast echoing cloisters of this shady woods with plenty of good 14th-century monastery make picnic spots. For more challeng- for a cool refuge from the heat of ing trails, call at the Maison du the day and the crowded sum- Parc du Luberon in an 18th-cen- mer streets of Avignon. Around tury manor in Apt, which has the cells where the monks lived maps, guides, exhibitions and a are shady courtyards and herb video room. gardens where they grew medici- Open Maison du Parc (park HQ) nal herbs (still cultivated, and Apr–Sept 8:30am–noon and 1:30– sold in the gift shop), and where 6pm Mon–Sat. Adm Free. Amenities you and your children are free to wander. During the French Rev- olution, the monks were turfed Historic Buildings & out and revolutionary soldiers Monuments (and their horses) occupied the Chartreuse—you can still see the Chartreuse du Val de Béné- occasional bullet hole in the ceil- diction ★★ ALL AGES ings. There’s a family-friendly Villeneuve lez Avignon, b 04 90 27 50 open-air restaurant. 00, www.chartreuse.org

Palais des Pâpes

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11_683361-ch08.indd 205 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 206 206 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse sands oftheriverbankunder shelterofthearches. (on thebridge)butsouslepont (underthebridge)—thelocalsdanced onthe The originallyricsof‘Surle pontd’Avignon’weren’tsurle 50 00,www.palais-des-papes.com Sur le pont d’Avignon, on y about: ‘Surlepontd’Avignon,ony This isthebridgethatsong’s Avignon, ALLAGES Pont St.-Bénezet Amenities dren under188.50€.CreditMC,V. 9:30am–5:45pm. Adm10.50€,chil- 16 Sept–1Nov9am–7pm;2Nov–Feb 1–15 Sept9am–8pm;Aug9am–9pm; 15 Mar–30June9am–4pm;Julyand Open Daily1–14Mar9am–6:30pm; (available inEnglish). a room-by-roomaudio-guide Room. Theticketpriceincludes admire intheGreatAudience colourful wall-paintingsto Revolution, buttherearestill sures duringtheFrench gnon, itwasstrippedofitstrea- Rome andsetuphomeinAvi- century, whenthepapacyfled and chapels.Builtinthe14th world, withhuge,echoinghalls biggest Gothicpalaceinthe by thesheerscaleofthis, interest inhistorywillbewowed Even childrenwithoutamassive Place duPalais,Avignon, ALLAGES Palais desPâpes MC, V.Amenities 6.50€, childrenunder6free.Credit 9:30am–5:30pm Oct–Mar.Adm Open Daily9am–6:30pmApr–Sept; FUN FACT b 04 3274

UndertheBridge

★★★

b 04 9027

built inthe16thcentury. the patronsaintofriverboatmen, Augustus, anda3 bc, inthereignofEmperor The theatrewasbuiltabout25 the multipletiersofstoneseats. will simplyenjoyscramblingover the ancientempire;youngerones older childrenwithaninterestin site intheVaucluse,willfascinate atre Orange’s ancient antique.com b Place desFrèresMounet,Orange, ★★★ Théâtre Antiqued’Orange MC, V. 4.50€, children8–143.50€.Credit Open Daily9:30am–5:45pm.Adm Chapelle St.-Nicolas way alongthebridgeislittle 22 archesstillstand.Abouthalf- ing it.Onlyfouroftheoriginal and in1688theygaveuprepair- caused ittocollapseseveraltimes, way totheotherside—floods Rhône butdoesn’tmakeitallthe famous bridgejutsoutintothe of theruinedbridge).Avignon’s dancing allbyhimselfattheend rotund blokeinastripyT-shirt Ton Ron’(weliketheideaofa family singsit,‘...onydanseTwo dance, allinacircle’)—or,asour bridge atAvignon,therethey danse toutenrond’(‘Onthe 04 90511760,www.theatre- , the most impressive heritage , themostimpressiveheritage

AGE4&UP Roman the- 1 ⁄ 2 m statue of m statueof , named for , namedfor

11/1/10 2:09 PM the emperor dominates the scene. they are built to a design dating What to See & Do With its flights of wooden steps, back more than 5,000 years, and however, it is impossible to were still used as tool sheds and explore with a buggy. shelters for farm workers and their Another Roman monument animals until the 20th century. worth a look is the Arc de Triom- Most of them, sadly, are begin- phe on Avenue de l’Arc de Triom- ning to collapse into heaps of phe, built about the same time as stones, but at the Village des the ancient theatre to commemo- Bories near Gordes you can walk rate Roman victories over the inside some of 20 bories that have Gauls. The carved sea-monsters been carefully rebuilt. Children, and mythical beings on this especially, find them more excit- triumphal arch will entertain ing than the great cathedrals and curious children for a while, and castles, and you can only marvel it’s free. together at the skill of the masons Open Daily Easter–Sept 8am– who made them. 6:45pm, Sept–Easter 9am–noon and Open Daily 9am–sunset. Adm 5.50€, 2–5pm. Adm 8€, children 7–17 6€; children 10–17 3€. Credit Cash only. second child accompanying two adults free. Credit MC, V. INSIDER TIP If you need to while away a cou- Village des Bories ★★★ ple of hours in Vaison-la- ALL AGES Romaine (p. 201), pay a visit to the Musée Archeologique Route de Cavaillon, 4km west of b Gordes, b 04 90 72 03 48 Theo Desplans ( 04 90 36 50 48, www.vaison-la-romaine. All over the Vaucluse you’ll see com). Among the ancient Roman little stone houses—bories—that statuary you’ll be treated to the look like beehives (or maybe holi- extraordinary sight of a shared, day homes for hobbits or six-seater ancient latrine— gnomes), standing in pastures and clearly, the Romans were not on hillsides. Made of stone slabs, concerned about privacy.

Roman Theatre, Orange

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11_683361-ch08.indd 207 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 208 208 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse delalavande.com lapidaire.org mythical monster,thePython. god Apolloslayinganother and asuperbstatueoftheGreek tion ofVenetiandeath-masks Roman times,amorbidcollec- find ancientsarcophagifrom tarasque (p. 171),butyou’llalso monster ofTarascon,the ture depictingtheman-eating point isthescarymedievalsculp- family’s ghoulishside—thehigh This museumwillappealtoyour b 27 ruedelaRépublique,Avignon, Musée Lapidaire only. Amenities 9am–1pm and2–6pm.CreditCash 12:15pm and2–6pm,AprilOct Feb–Mar andNov–Dec9am– Open DailyMay–Sept9am–7pm, but hardlyneeded. guides inEnglishareavailable, blooms totakehome.Audio- oils, soaps,candlesanddried can buypurelavenderessence, soms usingcopperalembics,and ries beendistilledfromtheblos- how lavenderoilhasforcentu- the flowers.Inside,youlearn breathe theheadyperfumeof from JunetoAugust,and lavender fieldsthatsurroundit to seethevasttractsofpurple worth visitingthismuseumjust bol oftheVaucluse,andit’s Lavender isthebest-knownsym- lon, midway betweenGordesandCavail- Route deGordes,D2,Coustellet, ALLAGES Musée delaLavande Top Museums 04 90863384,www.musee- b 04 90769123,www.musee

★★

AGE5&UP ★★

provence.com/mireio 85 6225,www.avignon-et- Credit MC,V(inshop). 2–5pm, Sat9am–noon.AdmFree. Open Mon–Fri9am–noonand lamps, ornamentsandvases. ten blobsintodelicatecrystal glass-blowers turnred-hotmol- shop youcanwatchaslocal During avisittothisglassworks south ofCarpentras, Fontaine deVaucluse,about20km Cristallerie desPapes Arts &Crafts Credit Cashonly. May. Adm6€,children12–183€. 9:30am–1pm and2–5:30pmOct– 2–6pm June–Sept,Wed–Mon Open Wed–Mon10am–1pmand nightmare-inducing. Tiny totsmayfinditallabit tions of 1 to 5 hours (up-river to tions of1to5 hours (up-riverto and downtheRhônefordura- St. Nicolas.Allthesejustchugup ships LeMireio,LaSaoneand the Rhôneonitsrestaurant- five differentcruisesupanddown This companyoffersachoiceof Allées del’Oulle,Avignon, Provence Grands Bateauxde Child-friendly Tours INSIDER TIP are made. sweets—berlingot andnougat— com) toseehowitssignature 78, www.carpentras-ventoux. ries (touristoffice: the town’sfamoussweetiefacto- complete withoutavisittooneof No triptoCarpentraswouldbe

ALLAGES b b 04 906300 04 90203252 b 04 90 11/1/10 2:09 PM What to See & Do Little Tourist Trains

Vaison-la-Romaine’s steep streets can be a challenge for anyone, especially toddlers and buggy-pushers on a hot summer day, so the town’s petit train (b 04 90 36 02 11, www.vaison-en-provence.com) is a welcome alternative to foot-slogging. Starting at the tourist office, it loops round all the main sights of the town, including the Roman remains and the medieval chapel of St.-Quenin, and crosses the famous Roman bridge en route. There are daily departures from 1 April to 30 September, on the hour from 10am to 4pm, leaving from the tourist office, and the whole trip takes about 30 minutes. Adults cost 4.50€, teens from 12 to 17 pay 2.50€, while children 11 and under go for free. Avignon’s tourist train (b 06 11 16 38 99), with its multilingual commentary, provides a great introduction to the city’s chequered past, from the 12th century (when the legendary bridge was built) to the 18th century, the town’s golden age. It’s perfect on very hot days, or if you have tots with easily tired legs. There are daily departures every 30 minutes, Easter to October, from Place du Palais des Pâpes. Tickets cost 7€ for adults and older children and 4€ for children aged 8 and under.

Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe and down- Barthelasse on the right bank of river as far as Arles). Only the the river; they’re open to all ages shorter cruises can really be rec- but we don’t think they’re suit- ommended for families, as some able for anyone much under the children will quickly get bored on age of 6. After meeting at the board. There’s a choice of five set west end of the Pont Daladier, menus, including a ‘menu mousse’ you’re given basic instruction by for under 12s, which offers a qualified guide before setting quiche, chicken and chips, and a off in a flotilla of kayaks, accom- dessert. Reservations are advisable. panied by your guides. Lifejackets Open Daily May–Oct; contact for and safety helmets are provided. times. Adm from 52€, children 5–14 Open Daily 9 July–19 Aug 2–6:30pm. 29€. Credit MC, V. Amenities Adm 15€ for 1 hour, including insurance and equipment; children under Active Families 9 free.

Balade en Kayak AGE 6 & UP Canoe Evasion ★★ ALL AGES Chemin de Halage, Ile de la Bar- Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, b 04 90 38 26 22, thelasse, Avignon, b 04 90 03 17 25. www.canoe-evasion.net www.kayak-avignon.fr This firm runs easygoing guided These gentlest of kayak trips (in family canoe adventures down one- or two-seater kayaks) take the Sorgue, from Fontaine de you over the backwaters of the Vaucluse to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Île de la Rhône, around the The 8km trip takes about 2 209

11_683361-ch08.indd 209 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 210 210 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse www.parcours-aerien.fr MC, V.Amenities 9–16 15€,children6–912€.Credit and Sept–Nov.Adm18€,children Sat andSun9am–4pmMar–June Open Daily9am–5pmJulyandAug, action andadventure. slightly hesitantaboutoutdoor builder foranychildrenwhoare This isagreatconfidence- safety equipmentisprovided. from easy-peasytoslightlyscary; 11 levelsoftreetopacrobatics, dwelling chimpanzee.Thereare cover whatit’sliketobeatree- children aged6andovercandis- ways, swingsandnets,where work ofropebridgesandwalk- around thetreetopsonthisnet- heights toenjoyclambering You needacertainheadfor Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Allée JeanGiono,BatimentD,No23, AGE6&UP Passerelle desCîmes Credit MC,V.Amenities Adm From17€,children7–1411€. ing required.Seasonalvariations. 2pm, 3pmand4pm);advancebook- Open Daily(departures10am,11am, you backtoyourstartpoint. float, aminibusawaitstocarry sive cameras.Attheendof inevitable sodon’tbringexpen- certain amountofsplashingis car. Fallinginisoptional,buta towels anddryclothesinyour doesn’t mindwater,andhave wear shortsandfootwearthat are included;youshouldalso 3. Buoyancyjacketsandhelmets about takingchildrenagedunder ble toall,butwe’dthinktwice special skills;staffsayit’saccessi- hours andyoudon’tneedany b 04 90385687,

★★★

around head offalongthewindingpaths donkey withpicnicsuppliesand Vaucluse. Loadupyourgentle is ourfavouritefamilytripinthe bikes arealsoavailable. you findyourway.All-terrain good mapsandadvicetohelp (who speaksEnglish)provides arranged). OwnerCatherine modation orcampingcanbe for upto2days(B&Baccom- rent adonkeyforhalf-dayor day inthecountryside.Youcan vineyards andolivegroves,fora hilltop villagesurroundedby AGE5&UP Sentiers desOchres half-day. booking required.Adm25€per Open Daily9am–5pm;advance This walkingtripwith vens.free.fr b Beaucet, 15kmnorthofCarpentras, L’Asinerie, LeFraischamp, AGE6&UP pagné d’unAnedeBat Randonnée PedestreAccom- minutes) leadthroughthe ochre walkingtrails(30to90 Provence. Short(self-guided) and paintsstillsotypicalof the deeporangeandyellowdyes ing therichochrerocktomake shaped by2centuriesofquarry- cliffs androckpinnacleswas and orange,carvedsculpted Western. Thisexpanseofred would makeaperfectsetfor the 16kmColoradoProvençal Welcome tocowboycountry; la République, From Rustreltouristoffice,Placede 04 90661453,www.asidude Le Beaucet b 04 90049607 , apretty

donkeys ★

★★★ 11/1/10 2:09 PM

What to See & Do Biking & Buggies

Découverte du Terroir en Buggy, Les Vignerons du Mont Ventoux, Quartier la Salle, Bédoin (b 04 90 65 95 72, www.bedoin.com). Children from 10 years can explore the vineyards of Mont Ventoux in a convoy of two-person, stripped-down mountain buggies, with an English-speaking guide. Starting from Bédoin on the lower slopes, you vroom to vineyards up to 500m above sea level, offering dizzy views of the whole of 1 the Vaucluse spread out below. The whole trip takes 2 ⁄2 hours; once back in town, parents can taste wines from the terroirs you’ve just visited. A family of four will need two buggies (with one adult and one child in each). All ages are welcome, but though older children will have great fun riding shotgun, we can’t recommend this for little ones. Devalkart, Station du Mont Serein, Beaumont du Ventoux (b 04 90 63 42 02, www.stationdumontserein.com). Dads (or grandads) who remember building downhill go-karts from old pram wheels and bits of scrap timber will love introducing their offspring to these hi-tech descen- dants of the old-fashioned ‘soap-box’ kart. Powered only by gravity, these non-motorised vehicles go as fast or as gently as you like over pistes used for snow sports in winter. You just hook your kart to the ski- lift to be towed back to the top for another ride. Little ones (over 4- years old) can potter around in mini-electric karts at the foot of the slopes while their older siblings (over 12) hurtle down the slopes. Fun Parc Aventure, Chemin du Bois, Richerenches (b 06 08 90 12 13, www.funparcaventure.com), around 30km northwest of Vaison-la- Romaine. There’s more than a whiff of testosterone in the air at this adventure site in the Haut Vaucluse, with laser-gun range and quad- bike and moto-cross circuits (quads and bikes are available for 6-year- olds and over). Holiday Bikes, 20 boulevard St. Roch. Avignon (b 04 32 76 25 88, www.holiday-bikes.com). This is part of a France-wide network offering bicycle hire for all ages, plus scooters, quads and—most popular among teens and sub-teens—mini-motorbikes. Parents may have qualms about risking their offspring, but helmets are provided and mini- bikes can only be ridden off-road or on designated trails. Ordinary push-bikes are a cheaper and less noisy way to explore the outskirts of Avignon and the banks of the Rhône; helmets are provided. Quad Location, Le Cours, Crillon-le-Brave (b 06 19 06 05 92, www. ventoux-quad.com), 18km northeast of Carpentras. Here you can rent all-terrain quads from mini to monster size for off-road outings.

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11_683361-ch08.indd 211 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 212 212 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse bebe-9.com heat, we’drecommendgoing buggy-friendly. Toavoidthe going andthey’redefinitelynot but under-6smayfindittough village; they’reopentoallages, quarries, startingfromRustrel screen andplentyofcolddrinks. don’t forgettotakehats,sun- first thinginthemorning,and toys, gamesandamusementsfor This Carpentrastoy-shopsells pentras, 89 placeduGénéraldeGaulle,Car- Bébé 9 Shopping 1.75€. CreditMC,V. Apr–Sept. Adm3.50€,children6–10 Open Mon–Sat9:30am–7:30pm, Covered foodmarket: Provençal market: Provençal market: Provençal market: Food market: Flower market: mornings. TIP moths andotheranimalsongrottoesinFranceSpain,the years—including thecave-painterswholefttheirdrawingsofmam- rust-orange colour.Peoplehavebeenusingitasapigmentfor30,000 Ochre isakindofhardclayrichinironoxide,whichgivesitdeep the quarrieswereabandoned. cheaper artificialdyeswereinvented,ochrebecameunprofitableand of thestuffweredugoutthesehillseveryyearuntil1930s,when into awashproofdye,andtheLuberonochrerushbegan—40,000tons one Jean-EtienneAstierfromRoussillonfoundawayofmakingochre ancient GreeksandRomanswhocolouredtheirpotterywithit.In1780 b TheBestLocalMarkets 04 90631340www. PlaceGeorgesClemenceau,Orange, Thursmorning. PlacedesCarmes,Avignon,Sat morning. centralApt,Sat morning. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue,Sunmorning. Courdel’HôtelDieu,centralCarpentras, Frimorning. LesHalles,PlacePie,Avignon,Tues–Sun Ochre The hand-madewoodentoys Isle-sur-la-Sorgue 62 impassedelaRépublique, Le ChatBotté and 7–9:30pm. Open MonandWed–Satnoon–2pm nearby Cavaillon. There’s anotherbranchin burning holesintheirpockets. members withholidaymoney it willattractyoungfamily It’s notexactlyeducational,but to ray-gunsandcowboyoutfits. all ages,fromdollsandteddies recently verytakenwiththe shopping streets—wewere taken oversomanyFrench humdrum plastictatthathas here makeachangefromthe

★★

11/1/10 2:09 PM wooden Pinocchio doll with 13€, but there are also smaller Family-Friendly Dining two detachable noses, a long clay animals for 6€. You will also one for when he is telling fibs find brightly patterned dresses, and a shorter nose for when he skirts, blouses and shirts for girls is telling the truth. The shop and boys aged 2 to 14, starting also sells rocking horses, teddy at around 10€, and babywear. bears and even pull-along xylo- Open Daily 10am–5pm. Credit MC, V. phone cars. For older children, there are skipping ropes and wooden skittles. FAMILY-FRIENDLY Open Mon–Sat 9:30am–12:30pm and 3–7pm, Sun 10am–7pm. DINING

Santons et Tissus de Avignon & Orange ★★ Provence In the summer months Avi- Place du Château, Gordes, b 04 90 gnon’s Place de L’Horloge is a 72 09 83 mass of café and brasserie tables Collectors from all over the from noon till midnight. Like globe return here again and other traffic-free squares dotted again to look for new santons to around Provence, it lends itself add to their collection of these to alfresco dining and is handy Provençal clay figures. ‘They are for letting your children potter all made and signed by Proven- around after lunch, while you çal artists, and none of them are enjoy a post-prandial coffee. made in China!’ boasts Chris- But, restaurant-wise, the city is tine. The smallest santons cost one big tourist trap.

Piglet, Carpentras Market

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11_683361-ch08.indd 213 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 214 214 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse la République( 71 08 one ofthetown’stwowinemakers’co-ops.Calltouristoffice( not muchtoattractchildren,parentsmightenjoyattendingawine-tastingat yards producingoneoftheRhôneregion’sfamousredwines.Althoughthere’s French popesofAvignon.It’snowaruin,onhilltopthatoverlooksvastvine- as thenameimplies:itwasbuiltin14thcenturyaholidayhomefor Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe—‘the Pope’snewcastle’—isn’tas which stockswinefromaroundadozenindividuallyownedlocalvineyards. every penny. menus andwinelist),butworth sive (seethewebsiteforàlacarte garden. Mind-bogglinglyexpen- jasmine- andorange-tree-scented ingly smartdiningsalonwithina Place Mirande,withaterrify- 90 854641,www.a2pasdupotager.fr tic dinneris ingredients. There’soff-street sis, naturally,ongarden-fresh French, withasouthernempha- to sitoutside.Themenuisvery days whenit’stoohot(orchilly) conditioned diningroomfor there’s alsoanindoor,air- perfect foroutdoorlunches,but A sunny,south-facingterraceis tables thatappearonyourplate. den suppliesthefruitandvege- d’Avignon market;todayitsgar- (kitchen garden)fortheHalles because itusedtobethepotager the kitchengarden’issonamed ‘The restauranttwostepsfrom 45 rueEdmondDelteil,Avignon, Potager Restaurant àDeuxPasdu 14 20 EXPENSIVE TIP Our gourmettipforaroman- ) fordetails.Yourbestbetisprobably , WineTime—Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe

www.la-mirande.fr ★

FRENCHCLASSIC La Mirande b

04 90837401 ( b ) in

b 04 90 ; MondaytoFriday8amnoonand26pm), 04 04 17 07 means itoffersthemthesame dren aresmallgrown-ups,which La Fourchetteassumesthatchil- Like manyFrenchrestaurants, 7 rueRacine,Avignon, La Fourchette Credit MC,V.Amenities 35€ (dinner).Children’smenu25€. Main coursesSetmenu30€(lunch), Open Dailynoon–3pmand7–10pm. earlier togosightseeing. let youparkacoupleofhours booking atableforlunch,they’ll parking; ifyouasknicelywhen doesn’t panderto(orripoff) the affordable spotsinAvignonthat We rateitasoneofthefew encountered thetinnedvariety. who haveonlypreviously revelation toBritishchildren should pleaseeveryoneandarea fresh sardines,simplygrilled, ing forsmallerappetites,butthe gratin maybeabittoochalleng- (stew) ofbeefwithmacaroni stew withendiveandthedaube children’s menu.Themonkfish ing astheirparentsratherthana old-style southernFrenchcook- MODERATE Prestige etTradition,

★★ b

PROVENCAL 04 9086 b

3ruede 04 9083

11/1/10 2:09 PM tourist hordes—it’s mostly filled haché, plus dessert. If under-6s Family-Friendly Dining with local families enjoying a grow restless, they can play on weekend lunch or dinner. In the mini merry-go-round a few keeping with its name (‘The steps away across the square. Fork’), the walls are eccentrically Open Daily noon–2:30pm and decorated with collections of 7–11pm. Main courses 12€–20€, antique cutlery, as well as old- children’s menu 7.50€. Credit AE, fashioned postcards and depic- MC, V. tions of that most Provençal of insects, the cigale (p. 114). East of Avignon Booking is essential. ★ FRENCH Open Daily 12:15–1:45pm and 7:15– Chez Serge 9:45pm except weekends 4–26 Aug 90 rue Cottier, Carpentras, b 04 90 and 9–16 Mar. Main courses Set 63 21 24, www.chez-serge.com menu 31€. À la carte mains 15€–20€. Credit MC, V. Amenities This restaurant on a courtyard surrounded by ancient arches is Le Festival ★ FRENCH usually full of local families. Easy 5 place de la République, Orange, to find, and open later than most, b 04 90 34 65 58 it’s a godsend if you arrive in This is the classiest-looking of Carpentras late in the evening in the half-dozen restaurants and high summer, although reserva- cafés on Orange’s cobbled, traf- tions are recommended, espe- fic-free main square, a couple of cially at night. The menu is full minutes’ walk from the Théâtre of straightforward, unpretentious Antique (p. 206). Its tables, French cooking, including per- shaded by trees and umbrellas, fectly prepared cuts of lamb and are well spaced out, so there’s beef; the children’s menu features room for families to manoeuvre. steak haché with chips or vegeta- Main courses are reasonably bles, or ham and cheese pizza, priced and service is prompt. followed by vanilla or chocolate The menu enfant gives a choice ice cream. Most of the friendly, of chips, fish with rice or steak efficient staff speak English.

TIP The Best Ice Cream Stops Glacier Gelatoshow in Orange (at the corner of Place de la République opposite Le Festival) sells granita in more colours than the rainbow; flavours include lemon, green apple, mango and orange, or there’s a bright-blue version simply called azzurro. If you worry about chemical colourings, there are 22 flavours of ice cream too. In Gordes, east of Avignon, La Canelle, 2 rue Baptistan Picca, a few steps from the castle and the main square, has a handful of tables and chairs outside and a dozen flavours of ice cream, as well as sorbets and ice lollies. It also serves pizzas, salads and cold drinks.

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11_683361-ch08.indd 215 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 216 216 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse Ferme del’Oiselet Feed theanimalsandenjoytrying freshorganicproduceonavisitto on marketdays.It’seasytofind, square andsurroundingstreets from thecrowdsthatpack restaurant isawelcomeescape Place delaCathédrale,thissmall Just aroundthecornerfrom pentras, 13–17 placeduColonelMouret,Car- La PetiteFontaine MC, V. 28€; children’smenu12€.CreditAE, Sept–June. Maincourses12.50€– 7–11:30pm JulyandAug;noon–2pm Open Dailynoon–2pmand Café byPalaisdesPâpes,Avignon and 2to5pm,onSaturday afternoons from2to5pm. can takepartinthemedworkshops. It’sopenMondaytoFriday9ammidday Sarrians. Familiescanstayintent-like Mongolianyurts,whilekidsfrom6to12 TIP b DownontheFarm 04 90607783 (Oiselet Farm; b

04 906557 tricky tonavigatewithabuggy. crammed closetogether,soare little traffic.Tablesinsideare isn’t pedestrianised,there’svery and althoughthisnarrowstreet outside besideasmallfountain, vous pointtoo.Therearetables so itmakesagoodfamilyrendez- menu 11.50€. 15€. Àlacartemenu27€.Children’s and 7–9:30pm.Maincoursesfrom Open MonandWed–Satnoon–2pm haché orpizza. offers theusualchoiceofsteak The children’smenuat9.50€ , www.oiselet.com ) in La 11/1/10 2:09 PM

Family-Friendly Accommodation TIP Picnic with a View Looking down on Orange’s ancient Roman theatre (p. 206) and with views all the way east to the Dentelles de Montmirail (p. 202), the landscaped St.-Eutrope hill on Rue Portoules is in a good spot for a post-sightseeing picnic, with plenty of shade under the trees, children’s play areas and the Piscine des Cedres, an open-air swimming pool (with lifeguards) very popular with local families in summer. If you don’t bring a picnic, there’s also a café-restaurant. Meanwhile, the formal gardens of the Rocher des Doms stand on the site of the earliest known settlement in Avignon, behind the cathedral of Notre- Dame-des-Doms. Boasting statues, flower beds, shade trees, topiary and a pond, they offer sweeping views of the town and across the river to Villeneuve.

Les Cuisines du Château ★ boundaries. Within the historic 5 place Genty Pantaly, Gordes, b 04 core of each, there are plenty of 90 72 01 31 hotels, some of which are very luxurious, while many more are We like this place for its loca- small and comfortable. It has to tion, right under the white stone be said, however, that very few walls and turrets of the medieval are truly family-friendly. castle, beside a gurgling foun- Rooms—even in luxury hotels— tain, shaded by plane trees and are on the small side, and few if away from most of the traffic. any town-centre hotels have There is no children’s menu but spaces for children to romp and plenty of things to appeal to relax. If you’re planning to stay smaller appetites, including good in the area for more than a few Greek salads with feta, tomato nights, look for a base in a gîte, a and mozzarella, or salade niçoise. hotel or a campsite on the out- The puddings—profiteroles, skirts of town rather than in the tiramisu and chocolate brownies crowded historic centre. (all 9€)—are outstanding. Open Daily midday–3pm and 7–10:30pm. Main courses 10€–15€. Avignon, Orange & Credit AE, MC, V. Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe MODERATE FAMILY-FRIENDLY Hôtel Cloître St. Louis ★★ VALUE ACCOMMODATION 20 rue du Portail Boquier, Avignon, b 04 90 27 55 55, www.cloitre- Avignon, Orange and Châ- saint-louis.com teauneuf-du-Pâpe are essentially medieval towns that have grown In a city with a dearth of genu- inely child-friendly places to beyond their original 217

11_683361-ch08.indd 217 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 218 218 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse morning’s exploring. enough tosetthefamilyupfora variety ofconserves—certainly cheese, hamandsausagea fresh fruit,rollsandbread, children), withabigbuffetof the 16€extra(noreductionfor is alavishaffairandwellworth keep childrenamused.Breakfast and theCartoonChanneltohelp bidets, andtheTVpullsinMTV have bathsaswellshowersand and wellfittedout.Bathrooms modern, unusuallyforFrance, play safely.Bedroomsarecoolly yard wheresmallerchildrencan ing surroundsanenclosedcourt- The16th-centurymainbuild- above allitiseasytofind. within walkingdistance,and Everythingis the afternoon). you canhangoutintheheatof rooftop onewithterracewhere town withaswimmingpool(a one oftheonlyhotelsinold for a gnon’s oldwallsisthebestbase stay, thishoteljustinsideAvi- sommellerie.fr by vineyards—in summerthe peaceful gardensandsurrounded century farmhousesetinitsown Sommellerie isaconverted17th- Master-chef PierrePaumel’s La du-Pâpe, Route deRoquemaure,Châteauneuf- La Sommellerie AE, MC,V.Amenities in separateroom;cotfree.Credit free and50%discountforunder-16s child upto16sharesparent’sroom 300€–360€. Extrabed26€butone 210€, Superior250€–300€,Suites Rooms 80.RatesStandard175€– In room short familystay b

04 90835000,www.la-

★★★

, aswell

In room 99€–151€. Amenities dard doubles74€–109€,familysuites Rooms 14plus2suites.RatesStan- cheeses, hamandsalami. array ofyoghurt,fruit,conserves, with logfire.Breakfastisan dining roomandacosylounge cooler weatherthere’sanindoor dren awayfromthewater.In have troubleluringtheirchil- take theirtimeoverlunchbut handy forparentswhowantto looking theswimmingpool— served onashadedterraceover- accompany meals,whichare has anexcellentlocalwinelistto Unsurprisingly,therestaurant night ortwo. may finditrestrictiveaftera more rumbustioussub-teens one ortwosmallchildren,but beds suitableforfamilieswith suites withdoublebedsandsofa rooms arecomfortablefamily a nightorweek.Twoofthe family withsmallerchildrenfor mate hotelthatwouldsuita you’ll hear.Thisisasmall,inti- cicadas aretheloudestnoise thing, kidswill enjoy kets (evenifyoudon’tbuyany- broquante shopsandstreetmar- village famousforitsantiques and the Sorgue,justoutsideapretty American tipisonthebanksof Mongolian-style yurtsorNative different, whynotstayincosy What fun!Forsomethingalittle sorguette.com b 871 routed’Apt,Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Aerotel LaSorguette INEXPENSIVE 04 90380751,www.camping-

rummaging rummaging

★

FIND

11/1/10 2:09 PM through piles of bric-a-brac in and eclectic to classical and Family-Friendly Accommodation search of treasures). For those serene. It’s all absolutely fabu- who prefer accommodation lous, though one feels that chil- that’s a little less exotic, there are dren may need to be on their ensuite wooden chalets and best behaviour in the public mobile homes. areas. On the other hand, you Rooms 40 tipis, lodges, yurts and could quarantine them in splen- mobile homes. Rates 280€–497€ for did isolation by staying in the four. Credit MC, V. Amenities Maison des Voyageurs or the In room Maison des Cascades, each of which has a private pool and its Park Inn ★ VALUE own garden. The restaurant, of Route de Caderousse, Orange, b 04 course, is superb. 90 34 24 10, www.orange.parkinn.fr Rooms 9 houses, 7 with 2 bedrooms and 1 with 3 bedrooms. Rates From This chain hotel on the outskirts 1,400€ for 2 nights (minimum stay 2 of Orange is an excellent place nights). Credit AE, MC, V. Amenities for a stopover—it’s easy to find, In room just off the autoroute and only 1 1 ⁄2km from the centre, and offers free secure parking and, among MODERATE the many amenities you’d expect Mas de la Pierre du Coq in a four- or five-star hotel, a ★★★ full-sized outdoor pool and a Chemin de Loriol, Aubignan, b 04 90 toddler’s pool. Family rooms 67 31 64, www.masdelapierre sleep up to four people in a dou- ducoq.com ble bed and sofa bed. The restau- This restored 17th-century farm- rant is adequate for a family house is one of our family favou- dinner after a long day’s drive. rites in the Vaucluse, combining Rooms 99. Rates Double 90€–100€. the cosiness of your own gîte Extra bed 20€, cots 10€. Credit AE, with hotel-style service. The lat- MC, V. Amenities ter includes a tasty breakfast In room (included) of fresh fruit, freshly squeezed juices, croissants, East of Avignon yoghurt, ham and cheese, plus an VERY EXPENSIVE excellent dinner on request for 28€ (no reduction for children). Domaine des Andeols ★★★ It’s a diminutive place with just Les Andeols, St. Saturnin-les-Apt, one family suite (double bed, sin- b 04 90 75 50 63, www.domaine- des-andeols.com gle bed and sofa bed) along with four double/twin rooms, and is Alain Ducasse’s fourth venture is surrounded by flower-packed a collection of gorgeous houses gardens that are safe for toddlers set in tranquil gardens on the and younger children, though outskirts of picturesque Gordes. you need to keep an eye on little Each house is individual; decor ones around the pool. ranges from quirkily modern 219

11_683361-ch08.indd 219 11/1/10 2:09 PM 11_683361-ch08.indd 220 220 8 Avignon & the Vaucluse campinglamontagne.com 25€ week.CreditMC,V.Amenities per night,175€–650€week.Cot Rates Chalet/mobilehome45€–70€ Chalets andmobilehomes50. nobody’s forcingyoutojoin in. nings andfancy-dressnights,but weekly calendarofkaraokeeve- liards. Youmaynotfancythe pétanque, tabletennisandbil- also beabletoplayvolleyball, ents awelcomebreather.You’ll keep themamusedandgivepar- of child-mindinganimateursto children’s playareawithacrew there’s abigopen-airpooland enettes. Third,butnotleast, to sixwithwell-equippedkitch- and mobilehomessleepingfour under canvas,astherearechalets Second, youdon’thavetosleep only 10minutesfromthecity. best ofseveralworlds.First,it’s ably pricedcampsiteoffersthe tance ofAvignon,thisreason- family basewithinshoutingdis- If you’reonabudgetbutwant Sorgues, 944 chemindelaMontagne, Camping LaMontagne Amenities arrangement, free.CreditMC,V. suite 180€.Babycotavailableby Rooms 4.RatesDouble120€,family all withinanhour’sdrive. Orange andMontVentouxare recommend routes.Avignon, phane willlendyoubicyclesand trails startsonthedoorstep;Sté- network ofwalkingandcycling will treatyoulikeoldfriends.A HostsMartineandStéphane INEXPENSIVE

b 04 90833666,www.

In room

Inroom

★

Luberon The as wellFranceandtheUK. Netherlands, BelgiumandItaly, with familiesfromGermany,the veritable UnitedStatesofEurope, Insummer,theLuberonisa and atoddlers’pool. (heated inspringandautumn) around twoswimmingpools camping area,whichisfocused away fromthemainandbusiest and akitchen.Theseareallset rooms, ashelteredoutdoordeck wooden chaletswithtwobed- sofa-beds; andtherearedinky people intwobedroomsandon (with kitchens)sleepfiveorsix fort, self-containedstonehouses get andthedesireformorecom- tents. Ifyouhaveabiggerbud- of spaceforthosewiththeirown of Apt,thiscampsitehasplenty from theshopsandrestaurants luberon.com 04 8540,www.camping-le- Set ona5-hectaresite1 Route deSaignon,D48,Apt, Camping LeLuberon imum stay2nights).Amenities mobile homes330€–750€week(min- wooden chalet350€–780€perweek; person over66.20€,under4.60€; adults, tentandcar,thenadditional pitches 16.90€–18.90€fortwo and mobilehomes.RatesTent Places 80tentpitches,31chalets National Park;p. 204)andfacili- mountain-biking) arenearby. tennis, riding,climbingand ties forotheractivities(including Inroom Parc Naturel Régional du Parc NaturelRégionaldu (Luberon Regional (Luberon Regional 1 ⁄ 2 km b 04 90

11/1/10 2:09 PM

9 Alpes de Haute-Provence

12_683361-ch09.indd 221 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 222 222 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence B ALPES DEHAUTE-PROVENCE of thetopadventure-sports destinationsin the wholeofFrance,with down deeplimestoneravines intheVerdongorges.Infact,thisisone dle arounditsdeep-bluemountain lakesonpedalosorplungegiddily least-discovered regionappeals toadventurousfamilies,whocanpad- tain passandrivercrossing. and marvelattheimpregnablecitadelsthatstandaboveevery moun- villages, flyinahot-airballoonoverlavenderfieldsandolive groves, empires. Thesedaysyoucanwanderthroughcar-free,cobblestoned it’s amountainousareathathasoftenbeencaughtbetween warring ft). FromHannibalwithhisCarthaginianwarelephantsto Napoleon, Villebois- Villebois- Verclause Verclause N100 0 0 L' Hospitalet L' Hospitalet D93 RHONE-ALPE RHONE-ALPES les-Pins les-Pins Accessible onlyviathefertile valleyoftheDurance,Provence’s Aubenas- Aubenas- les-Alpes les-Alpes Charens Charens sparsely populatedAlpinehinterland ordered byplateauxandlimestoneravines,Provence’s D539 Forcalquier Forcalquier Manosque Manosque 10 km N75 E712 Vif Vif Clelles Clelles 10 mi Curel Curel FRANCE A51 E712 E712 11 Mereuil Mereuil S Vizille Vizille N75 12 Vinon-sur-Verdon Vinon-sur-Verdon Vitrolles Vitrolles Ambel Ambel Oze Oze N85 Villeneuve Villeneuve D994 1 A51 D952 9 E712 2 10 PROVENCE-ALPES 3 SisteronSisteron Les Mées Les Mées CO CÔTE D’AZUR Riez Riez N91 N85 Aiglun Aiglun Bellaffaire Bellaffaire Parc Arbres etAventures 5 Musée Terre etTemps 3 Musée ScoutBadenPowell 2 duVerdon 15 Musée dePréhistoire desGorges Les PénitentsdesMées10 Le Train desPignesàVapeur 8 La Vallée Sauvage 4 Jardin desPapillons 7 Gorges duVerdon 18 Flights12 France Montgolfières Balloon Fort deSavoie 6 Citadelle deSisteron 1 Aboard Rafting21 Attractions 4 TE D'AZU TE D'AZU Chauffayer Chauffayer N85 Theus Theus Gap Gap Laye Laye D907 Auris Auris 13 14 D957 Verdaches Verdaches Thoard Thoard Ste.-Marie Moustiers- Ste.-Marie Moustiers- 7 15 Avancon Avancon Digne-les-BainsDigne-les-Bains D952 16 R 8 D900 St.-Lions St.-Lions 17 Palud-sur- Verdon Palud-sur- Verdon N85 Montclar Montclar Seyne Seyne 18 Champcella Champcella Serre-PonconSerre-Poncon Lake D902 Vergons Vergons risesupto3,000m(9,850 20 Colmars Colmars N91 19 Val-des-Pres Val-des-Pres Briancon Briancon Bardonecchia Bardonecchia 21 22 D955 Castellane Castellane D908 N94 5 Annot Annot D900 Camping Les Collinesde Camping L’International 19 Accommodation Les Affa’mées 9 La Taverne 23 La Forge 22 Auberge duPoint Sublime17 Dining Rando Pitchoun11 Parc Naturel RégionalduVerdon 16 La BastidedeMoustiers 13 Château14 Hôtel auNaturel Moulindu Castellane20 23 6 N202 DU MERCANTOUR DU MERCANTOUR PARC NATIONAL Barcellonnette Barcellonnette A43 E70 D902 Guillaumes Guillaumes Daluis Daluis D2202 D902 Vars Vars Avignon FRANCE Area of N94 detail Cervieres Cervieres Jausiers Jausiers D900 Auron Auron Théniers Théniers Isola 2000 Isola 2000 Puget- Puget- D64 ITALY A32 Sestriere Sestriere Valberg Valberg

ITALY SS21 SS23 Nice Susa 11/1/10 2:10 PM everything on offer from white-water kayaking and canyoning to par- Visitor Information ascending, abseiling and free-climbing.

VISITOR TER regional trains (www.ter- INFORMATION sncf.com) to points north of Marseille along the Durance valley, to Gap and beyond (see The Alpes de Haute-Provence ‘Getting Around’, p. 224). Alter- Tourist Development Agency natively, you can take the TGV (ADT) has an English-language from Paris to Valence and con- website, www.alpes-haute- nect with Gap from the north. provence.com, listing activities, There’s also the privately run attractions, festivals and other Train des Pignes (www.train events. It also has links to help provence.com; p. 231) daily from you find accommodation and Nice to Digne-les-Bains and the navigate your way around, and Haut-Verdon valley. lists of all the local tourist offices in towns and larger villages. By Bus SNCF (p. 224) operates Getting There coach services (bookable on its website) from Gap, Avignon and By Air There are no airports Aix-en-Provence to many towns within this area itself, but several and villages in the Alpes de within easy reach. Nice airport Haute-Provence. (p. 58) is about 80 to 90km by By Car See p. 224. road from the region’s southern or eastern boundaries; Marseille Orientation airport (p. 117) is about 120km away; Nîmes airport (p. 170) is The A51 autoroute runs along about 130km away; and Avi- the Durance valley, linking Sis- gnon airport (p. 194) is about teron, Manosque and other 100km away. towns and villages with Aix-en- Outside Provence, Grenoble Provence, and the coast with airport (www.grenoble-airport. Gap. The N85 Route Napoleon, com), about 140km north of named in honour of the emper- Gap, is served by Ryanair (p. 29) or’s advance in 1815, branches from Dublin all year, and by off the A51 at Château-Arnoux easyJet (p. 29), although many and winds its way through of these only operate from air- Digne-les-Bains and Castellane ports across the UK during the to Grasse and Cannes on the winter ski season. Riviera. The N202 connects the heart of Haute-Provence with By Train For Eurostar services to Avignon, see p. 194. TGVs Nice. Winding, scenic routes connect Avignon with Marseille, départementales link these main from which there are links on roads with the more remote villages. 223

12_683361-ch09.indd 223 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 224 224 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence local taxioperators. give youdetailsofthese,and lenge. Localtouristofficescan valleys maybeabitofchal- you’re intopshapethosesteep cycle-hire firms,butunless see p. 196,144,58and170. seille, NiceandNîmesairports car-hire firmsatAvignon,Mar- explore youreallyneedacar.For stations, butifyouwantto vice connectingwithitsmain quite acomprehensivebusser- hinterland—SNCF operates no passengerrailservicesinthe Grenoble tothenorth.Thereare to thesouthandGap Aix-en-Provence andMarseille Bains andMeyrargues)with Auban, Manosque–Gréoux-les- Laragne, Château-Arnoux-St- Haute, Veynes-Dévoluy,Serres, (Vif, Cielles-Men,Lus-la-Croix- villages alongtheDurancevalley Sisteron andothertowns TER trains(p. 58)connect Getting Around INSIDER TIP Alpes deHaute-Provence easier reach. There arebetterskiresortswithin of reachingthemfromtheUK. are probablynotworththeeffort but notoutstandingskiing.They offer goodfacilitiesandadequate meets theHautes-Alpes.They Ubaye, whereHaute-Provence Pelat orabovethevalleyof most aroundtheflanksofMont tering ofwintersportsstations, (aka Haute-Provence)hasascat- There areplentyoflocal

don Préhistoire desGorgeduVer- Ste. Croix tree toat fields aboarda splashing aroundatthe lée Sauvage (p. 233). and fiercewildboarinthe woggle atthe butterflies inDigne’s mies atthe musketeer fendingoffyourene- 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Attractions Children’s Top10 WHAT TOSEE&DO 0 9 8 (p. 228). (p. 230). (p. 231). Baden Powell Aventure cave peopleatthe Papillons ing aboard the

Floating Encountering Counting Coming Learning Chugging Swimming Peering Imagining Swinging Grand CanyonduVerdon (p. 230). (p. 228). (p. 233). (p. 229). Train desPignes downintothedizzy- face-to-facewith Fort deSavoie highabovelavender theFrenchfor (p. 229). dozensofdifferent Tarzan-stylefrom throughthehills you’reagallant Musée Scout Parc Arbreset , sailingand (p. 231). hot-air balloon furrymarmots Musée de Jardin des Lac de

Val-

11/1/10 2:10 PM What to See & Do Fast Facts: Castellane

Banks: Crédit Agricole (b 04 92 83 63 65), Place Marcel Sauvaine. Hospitals: Hôpital Locale (b 04 92 83 98 00), Boulevard St -Michel. Pharmacies: Pharmacie Léocard (b 04 92 75 00 03), 18 rue Nationale. Post Offices: the Castellane post office is at Place Marcel Sauvaire (b 04 92 83 99 80); it’s open 8:30am to 6pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 12:30pm Saturday. Shopping: See p. 234 and, for markets, p. 236.

Child-friendly Events & Corso de la Lavande ★★ Entertainment Digne-les-Bains, b 04 92 36 62 62, www.ot-digneslesbains.fr. Les Folklories de Pernes Jardins de la Mairie, Pernes-les Digne comes over all purple for Fontaines, b 06 71 49 75 21, 4 days in August, during the lav- E: [email protected] ender harvest. The best bit for Older children and parents will children is the final day, when enjoy these days of open-air flower-covered floats and cos- music and traditional dance in tumed dancers parade down the the village gardens, with a cast of town’s main street and the whole performers from all over the place is sprayed with lavender- world. All the action starts at scented water. 9pm, however, so this isn’t an 1st week in Aug. Adm Free. event for babies and younger toddlers. Towns & Villages 16–18 July. Adm 2€. Castellane ★★★ Tourist office: b 04 92 83 61 14, Rues en Fête www.castellane.org Sisteron, b 04 92 62 67 71, www. sisteron.stationverte.com or www. High up in the Verdon valley, sisteron.fr Castellane is the top spot for Sisteron plays host to a mixed- active families—it’s the best base bag of evening entertainment for for exploring the Parc Naturel about 3 weeks in high summer, Régional du Verdon (Verdon with mime artists, jugglers, con- Regional Natural Park; p. 229), jurers, dancers and singers per- and its streets are crammed with forming in streets around the shops selling outdoor kit and old-town centre. Most events equipment, from kayaks to inflat- start about 9pm. able rafts, including L’Échoppe 18 July–8 Aug. Adm Free. (p. 234). It’s a cheerful, cosmo- politan place in summer, and 225

12_683361-ch09.indd 225 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 226 226 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence lakeside orriversidelocations. sites nearby,mostofthemwith there arelotsofpleasantcamp- www.colmars-les-alpes.fr www.ot-digneslesbains.fr Tourist office: Digne-les-Bains 3,050m (10,007ft) the region’shighestpeak, Verdon valleyandoverlookedby set intheupperreachesof most impressivefortressvillage, Colmars isHaute-Provence’s Reeking ofmedievalromance, Tourist office: Colmars well as a child-sized treadmill well asachild-sizedtreadmill with swings,slidesandseesaws,as enjoy theparkandplayground while, youngerchildrenwill square. Outsidethewalls,mean- century fountaininthemain has ahandfulofcafésand19th- maze ofnarrow,cobbledstreets to letflyatenemiesbelow.The pets wherebowmenoncestood on littleones)aroundthepara- you canwalk(keepingafirmgrip and towersarestillintact, National Park.Itsancientwalls adventures intoMercantour to, itmakesagoodbasefor Although ittakesabitofgetting feels liketobeahumanhamster. where theycanfindoutwhat it Le Félibrige, Le Cinématographe, symbol. Forcurrentlistings,see For English-languagefilms,lookforthe‘VO’(versionoriginale) Arnoux,

★★★ b

b b 08 92680128 04 92366262, 04 92834192, English-language Cinemas PlacedesAirs,Gréoux-les-Bains,

★★ Mont Pelat CentreCulturelSimone-Signoret,Château- . . www.angloinfo.com www.forcalquier.com herbs usedintraditionalcures. full ofmedicinalplantsand the groundsofaformerconvent, Set inthehillswestof Tourist office: Forcalquier centre andthewalled sculptures dottedalloverthe families canenjoythemodern visitors areontheelderlyside, pretty spot,andalthoughmany properties. Thisisapeacefuland their supposedhealth-giving admired sinceRomantimesfor surprise them.Dignehasseven, them onTV,buttherealitywill about naturalhotspringsorseen Your childrenmayhaveread vatoire deHaute-Provence France, whichiswhythe claims tohavetheclearestair in mill honey aswellmorerun-of-the- can shopforlocallavenderand tling Saturdaymarketwhereyou to spendamorning,withbus- ‘sights’. Still,it’sapleasantplace of theregion,therearenobig medieval baronsandthecapital tory, andwasoncethesetof way. Althoughithasarichhis- magical littletowninalow-key Durance valley,Forcalquierisa Botanique desCordeliers fruit andvegetables.Italso b

08 928928 b

★ . 04 92751002, Jardin . Obser- in

11/1/10 2:10 PM What to See & Do (www.obs-hp.fr/www/visites/ Promenade des Évêques visites.html) was built here dur- (Promenade of the Bishops), a ing the 1930s. The old-town 300m, reasonably buggy-friendly centre is partly pedestrianised, walk lined with medieval chapels though cobbles and occasional and affording views out over the steep slopes make buggy-pushing orchards, olives and flower fields difficult, and finding a place to of the Durance valley. park anywhere near the centre is Moustiers-Ste.-Marie murder: leave your car in one of b the car parks outside the centre. Tourist office: 04 92 74 67 84, www.moustiers.fr Lurs ★★ High above the Lac de Ste. Croix b Tourist office: 04 92 75 10 02, (p. 229), Moustiers is one of the www.forcalquier.com prettiest villages in Haute- In the hills on the west bank of Provence, with a babbling brook the Durance, Lurs feels a bit arti- running through its centre and ficial, but children usually enjoy views from the clifftop church of it. Entering the walled village Notre Dame. Unfortunately, it’s through the centuries-old Porte very far from being a secret—in d’Horloge feels like the beginning summer its cafés and restaurants of an adventure, and the ruined are packed, and there’s often a castle of the prince-bishops (who long tailback of cars in both direc- ruled here a thousand years ago) tions in and out of the village. adds atmosphere. Abandoned in Sisteron ★★★ the late 19th century, the village b came back to life in the 1950s Tourist office: 04 92 61 36 50, www.sisteron.com when a trickle of artists and craft workers began moving back into Sitting on the west bank of the the dinky houses inside the ram- Durance, Sisteron is one of the parts. The best part is the gateways to Haute-Provence. Its

Near Moustiers Ste.-Marie

227

12_683361-ch09.indd 227 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 228 228 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence the Verdonriver in1974. sea thatwascreatedbydamming the turquoiseexpanseof and drinksbeforepushingonto where youcanstopforicecream for theannualhighbrow the Rings.Thisisalsovenue on HarryPotterorTheLordof (and adults)whohaveoverdosed and-sorcery fantasiesinchildren and dungeonsinspiresword- buggies). Thefortress’innerkeep and theyarebeyondthereachof need ahelpinghandonthese, its ramparts(smallerchildrenmay affords far-reaching de Ste.Croix citadelle.fr la Citadelle ( citadel onagrimlimestonecrag town, anintimidatingmedieval of thejade-greenriver.Above skyscrapers, risingfromthebanks red-roofed houseslooklikemini- Route desCrêtes Corniche Sublime The bestviewsofitarefromthe plunges todepthsofup700m. spectacular limestoneravinethat be completewithoutatriptothis No triptoHaute-Provencewould Croix Between CastellaneandLacdeSte. Gorges duVerdon Spectacular Views Natural Wonders& stretch their legs. The even giddier stretch theirlegs.Theevengiddier Point Sublime,wheremanystopto drivers orpassengers,andfrom that’s certainlynotfornervous small villageof late JulyandearlyAugust. music anddance( Citadelle deSisteron ) heldinSisteron festivalofclassical (p. 229), an inland (p. 229), aninland Palud-sur-Verdon ends up at the endsupatthe , a giddy road , agiddyroad www.nuitsdela views from

★★★ p. 229) p. 229) Nuits de Nuits de Lac Lac , have beenverybigmonks. than 100mtall…theymust Some ofthecolumnsaremore doning theirvowsofcelibacy. turned themintostoneforaban- dwelling hermit,St.Donat, Moorish slave-girls—acave- a of fell forthecharms of monkswho,inthe6thcentury, the rocksarepetrifiedremains in theDurancevalley.Legendsays above thelittlevillageofLesMées www.proserpine.org Open Always.AdmFree.Amenities Tots canhuntwrigglycaterpil- Digne-les-Bains, Jardin desPapillons Animal Parks Open Always.AdmFree. is fromthechurchof nacles stretchingmorethan2km alcade ofnaturallimestonepin- The bestviewofthisbizarrecav- Digne-les-Bains Les Mées,27kmwestof Les PénitentsdesMées around Haute-Provence. terflies you’llseeinthewild to putnamesthemanybut- enthusiastic guideisagoodway the JardindesPapillonswith an creatures love.Astrollthrough the flowersandshrubsthat 1-hectare gardenplantedwith half havebeenspottedinthis of butterflyinFrance,morethan heaven—of the250orsokinds of everythingareinseventh dren wholiketoknowthenames this butterflygarden;olderc lars onthelushfood-plantsin

b 04 92318334, St.-Roch gaggle of

★★★

★★ hil- 11/1/10 2:10 PM , Open Guided visits daily July 11am, Park has more than 700km of What to See & Do 2:30pm, 4pm; Aug 10am, 11:30am, walking trails and bridle paths, 2:30pm, 4pm; Apr, May and Sept by accessible on foot, on horseback request Mon–Fri; June by request daily. Adm 5€, under-12s 3€. Credit or by mountain bike. In the MC, V. Amenities wilder reaches of the park, above ★★ the tree-line, the limestone peaks La Vallée Sauvage are home to chamois, wild goats, Ferme du Vieux Moulin, St. Geniez, marmots and spectacular bird- b 04 92 61 52 85, www.lavallee life, including golden eagles and sauvage.com lammergeyer vultures. These The ‘wild valley’ isn’t very wilder regions may be too wild wild at all: this paradise of for tots and toddlers; you’ll find furry critters in 15 hectares of gentler country with tidy patch- meadows, woodland, ponds and works of green and purple laven- streams is designed with buggy- der fields on the sunny Valensole pushing parents and toddlers in plateau, and sheep pastures and mind. Everyone loves the place, green oak woods surrounding and especially the marmots Artuby. At the other extreme, (probably the cutest of all— the deep chasms of the Gorges you will have to resist pleas to du Verdon (p. 228) are terrify- take one home), the dabbling ingly grand. ducks, deer, chamois and mou- The park is also home to the flon (wild sheep). There are also Lac de Ste. Croix, an inland sea wild boar, which aren’t cuddly that you can paddle around in at all, and a whole menagerie of pedalos, dinghies and canoes. farmyard animals from bunnies You can lie around on its lake- to bantams. Most of the staff side beaches or swim in the dazz- speak good English. ing blue, lifeguard-protected Open Daily 10am–7pm Apr, July, waters. You’ll find snack bars, Aug and Nov; Wed, Sat, Sun and swimming and picnic sites at public holidays 10am–7pm May, Ste.-Croix du Verdon, near the June, Sept and Oct. Adm 9.80€, chil- southern end of the lake. dren 3–16 7.90€. Credit MC, V. Open Always. Adm Free. Amenities Amenities

Natural Reserves, Parks Historic Buildings & & Gardens Monuments Parc Naturel Régional du Citadelle de Sisteron Verdon ★★★ Sisteron, b 04 92 61 27 57, www. Domaine de Valx (park HQ), Moust- sisteron.com iers-Ste.-Marie, b 04 92 74 68 00, www.parcduverdon.fr Perched above the Durance and Created in 1997, and thus one of the red-tiled roofs of Sisteron, France’s newest nature reserves, this formidable castle has the Verdon Regional Natural guarded the river crossing since the 13th century—and it’s still 229

12_683361-ch09.indd 229 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 230 230 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence drawn carriagesmorefun. haps findthecollectionofhorse- in 1815.Mostchildrenwillper- reclaiming theimperialthrone ing exileonElba,thewayto passed throughhereafterescap- 09 59,www.museeprehistoire.com dedicated to It alsohousesasmallmuseum century stainedglassinitschapel. pretty goodnick,asisthe15th- turrets andbastionsarestillin and shelledbytheAllies,butits was garrisonedbytheGermans during WorldWarII,whenit not finished.Itlastsawaction colmars-les-alpes.fr need atleasta half-day tomake in Haute-Provence,andyou’ll This isthedon’t-missmuseum east ofGreoulx-les-Bains, Route deMontméjor,Quinson,30km Gorges duVerdon Musée dePréhistoiredes Top Museums dren 5–145€.CreditMC,V. hourly JulyandAug.Adm10€,chil- Open Daily10am–6pm;guidedtours der fromenemiesacrosstheAlps. musketeer defendingFrance’sbor- ine whatitwasliketobeaFrench look outoverthevalleyandimag- (1633–1707). Fromitsramparts, tary architectSébastiendeVauban designed bythegreatFrenchmili- squatting aboveColmarswas This solid17th-centuryfortress Colmars, Fort deSavoie children 5–144€.CreditCashonly. July–Aug 9am –7:30pm. Adm7€, 6:30pm; JuneandSept9am–7pm; Open DailyApr,MayandOct9am– b 04 92834688,www. Napoleon

★★★ , who b 04 9274 from themuseumto Evenbetterisathemedtrail a millionyearsofhumanhistory. inside, itsexhibitsspanalmosthalf look atfromtheoutside,while Stone-Age style, grindinggrain dren cantrytheirhandatlife archaeological villagewherechil- Further alongthetrailisan children mayfindthisscary). flooded partsofthecave(young can gobyboatdeeperintothe ologists arestillatwork,andyou its wallsandfloor,wherearchae- a viewingplatformletsyousee grotto wasdiscoveredin1946— (the trailisbuggy-friendly).The while ontheraisedwalkways hold littleonesbythehand walk tothecaveandback, dren: allowabout2 trail isn’tidealforyoungerchil- those exhibitswerefound.The Bonne grotto Norman Foster in the1990sbyBritisharchitect spent awholedayhere).Designed the mostofit(althoughwe’ve Citadelle deSisteron , wheremanyof , it’sexcitingto 1 ⁄ 2 hoursto Baume 11/1/10 2:10 PM What to See & Do by hand, chipping flints, and The Earth and Time Museum is trying to light a fire by rubbing a great one for young Dr Who sticks together. Keep an eye on fans, who will like the robots, any reckless ones along the sundials, water clocks and other way—although the trail to the weird and wonderful devices on cave is well surfaced and has ade- display here, including the ever- quate guardrails, there are some swinging Foucault’s pendulum. nasty drops. There are fossils, petrified trees Open Wed–Mon 10am–7pm Apr–June and meteorites, too. and Sept; daily 10am–8pm July and Open Daily 9am–midday and 2–6pm Aug; Wed–Mon 10am–6pm Feb, Mar July–Sept. Guided visits and activities and Oct–mid-Dec. Adm 7€, children for children Tues, hourly from 11am. 6–18 5€, family ticket (two adults, two Adm 6€, children under 12 4.50€. children) 20€; guided visit supple- Credit MC, V. Amenities ment 1.50€ per person. Credit MC, V. Amenities Child-friendly Tours Musée Scout Baden Powell Le Train des Pignes à Vapeur ★ AGE 12 & UP b b Station, Digne-les-Bains, 04 92 31 6 rue Mission, Sisteron, 04 92 61 01 58, http://gecp.asso.fr/ 03 16 This rattling narrow-gauge line It’s not entirely clear why Sis- makes a fun contrast to the sleek teron is so keen on scouting, but TGVs and Eurostars that whizz the Baden Powell Scout Museum you from London or Paris to the is a good way for families to make Midi. If you’re flying into Nice new friends in the area. Members and staying near Digne-les- of the local Scout group set up Bains, the children will find it a the museum in 2007 to mark novel way of travelling to Haute- the centenary of the Scout move- 1 Provence (taking 3 ⁄4 hours), ment. They say they want it to be through spectacular scenery, and a bridge between generations, a welcome change from sitting and you can’t fault their idealism. in the back of a car. It may all be too earnest for some For an authentic taste of what children, but if yours are already rail travel was like a century ago, Scouts, Cubs or Guides they will take them on one of the original enter into the spirit of the thing. ‘Fir Cone’ steam trains that are And it’s always good to learn the operated in summer by the French for ‘woggle’. Group d’Etude pour les Chemins Open Wed 3–6pm mid-Mar–mid-Aug; de Fer de Provence. They chuff by appointment otherwise. Adm Free. back and forth daily between Musée Terre et Temps ★★ Puget-Théniers and Annot. AGE 10 & UP Departures Daily all year departing Chapelle des Visitandines, Réserve Digne 7:29am, 10:55am, 2:25pm Naturel Géologique de Haute- and 5:30pm. Adm Adults 20€; chil- Provence, Sisteron, b 04 92 61 61 30, dren 16€. Credit MC, V. Amenities www.sisteron.com; see also www. resgeol04.org 231

12_683361-ch09.indd 231 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 232 232 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence steam—so thedriverhastowakeupat5amfora10amstart. Espaces, com; LaCompagniedesGrands sense. hands-on adventuresinevery (accompanied byparents)are These guidedwalksforchildren b Departs fromForcalquiertouristoffice, AGE5&UP de laPigneMagique Bricoleurs /LesAventuriers Rando Pitchoun–LesPetits hours toturnthe6tonnesofwaterin coal firethatheatedthetrain’sboilerbeforetheycouldmoveoff.Ittakes5 French verbchauffer(‘toheat’).Steam-traindrivershadtolightthewoodor Our word‘chauffeur’,whichweusetomean‘driver’,comesfromthe above Forcalquier. slopes oftheMontagnedeLure ing skillsonthepine-forested basic orienteeringandhill-walk- map, asyourguidesshowyou who reallyknowshowtoreada This iswhereyougettofindout accompanied byMumorDad. slightly olderchildren,also about 3hours,isforenergetic, it’s reallyveryhardwork. think thesimplelifeissimple— tion foranyurbanfamilieswho walking.’ It’sdefinitelyarevela- admire natureandyourfeetfor your noseforsmells,eyesto ‘Bring yourhandsforoddjobs, dry-stone wall.Theorganiserssay: of beestonewpasturesorrepaira how tomendafence,movehive ing basiccountrysideskillssuchas spent potteringaroundandlearn- of thatiswalkingtime:therest for 3hours,butonly45minutes 04 92751002,www.forcalquier. FUN FACT Les Aventuriers Les PetitsBricoleurs b 06 80381323 HeatingtheTrains , alsolasting

★★★ last last

Train desPignes fied guidesandsafetyequipment lings. Basictraining,fullyquali- rendezvous withyoungersib- where theraftingcontingent can aboard-rafting.com Provence experienceforthose is thenot-to-be-missedHaute- Rafting downtheVerdonriver Castellane, Aboard Rafting,8placedel’Église, AGE8&UP Aboard Rafting For ActiveFamilies years andup.Bookingobligatory. and 7–21Aug.Adm10€everyone5 Les Aventuriers5pmFri10–24July Open LesPetitsBricoleurs5pmTues; try outtheirFrench. dren tomakenewfriendsand can beagreatwayforyourchil- beginning ofeitherwalk,which drive fromthevillageto car-sharing ifyoudon’twantto GrandsEspacescanarrange ny’s privateriversidebeachat utes andendsupatthecompa- for ages8andup,lasts90min- rite teens andgrown-ups.Ourfavou- and onlyforadrenaline-crazed of whicharefranklyterrifying run ahugevarietyoftrips,some panies with olderchildren.Lotsofcom- Pinede trip, runbyAboardRafting in andaroundCastellane , anexcellentpicnicspot b 04 92837611,www.

★★★ locomotiveinto

La 11/1/10 2:10 PM

are provided including lifejacket, around 3 hours, with just over What to See & Do helmet and wetsuit. an hour in the air. If it’s your Open Daily Apr–Oct (departures first-ever flight, there’s a tradi- 9:30am, 11:30am and 1:30pm). tional ceremony on landing Adm 33€–75€ (all ages depending involving fizzy drinks and hav- on the activity). Credit MC, V. Ame- ing a lock of your hair scorched nities off to prove you’re a real aero- France Montgolfières Balloon naut. Minimum age is 6 years Flights ★★★ AGE 11 & UP old, but younger children may 24 rue Nationale, Montrichaud, For- be scared by literally coming calquier, b 02 54 32 20 48, www. down to earth with a bump at france-balloons.com the end of the flight, so realisti- cally we think this is one for the Hot-air ballooning is big in over-10s. Note that most flights France (they invented it, after take off at sunrise. all); it’s also one of the best ways to see Haute-Provence. Lavender Flights Daily June–Aug, sunrise and sunset. Rates 185€–205€, children fields and olive groves spread out 6–12 155€. Credit AE, MC, V. below you as you drift over the Durance valley, with the high Parc Arbres et Aventures ★★ country of the Verdon and AGE 4 & UP Valensole stretching off into the Route de Colmars, Beauvezer, near distance. You get to watch the Colmars, b 06 78 11 89 26, www. balloon being inflated, then colmars-les-alpes.fr scramble into the basket and You can swing and clamber from float effortlessly into the air. Sib- tree to tree in this forest adven- lings (and parents) who bottle ture park with its ‘monkey out can join the ‘chase convoy’ bridges’, tightrope-walkways and that follows the balloon cross- ‘flying foxes’. Energetic older country and stay in touch by children with a good head for mobile phone. The trip lasts heights love it—over-10s must

Rafting on the River Verdon

233

12_683361-ch09.indd 233 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 234 234 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence swings andclimbingnetstoo. demanding, lower-level,un-scary 4- to10-year-oldsthereareless on ropewaysandswings.For panied byanadultonthefull- be atleast1.5mtallandaccom- Sat 9am–noon.CreditMC,V. Open Mon–Fri9am–noonand2–6pm, oils—that makegoodpresents. bath oils,crystals,creamsand also lotsoflavender-basedgifts— beg tobetakenhome.Thereare are pocket-sized,costjust10€and dungarees forboys)—thesmallest gingham outfits(dressesforgirls, boy andgirlbearsinhand-made including anextendedfamilyof things foryoungervisitorstoo, accessories shophasdesirable this poshhomedecoratingand Every timewepassitswindow, Bains, 28 boulevardGassendi,Digne-les- Côté BéaInspirations Shopping MC, V.Amenities Adm 19€,children4–1012€.Credit Open Daily10am–5pmJune–Sept. towns includingManosqueitself. office ineitherManosqueorGréoux-les-Bains. You’llfindstoresinmost outskirts ofManosquefromMonday toFriday.Bookviathetourist essential oils,includinglocallavender. Youcanvisitthefactoryon L’Occitane ( the biodegradablemosquitorepellent toweletteswithinsect-repelling handy: welovethesheabuttermother-and-babybalmmoisturiser, and olive, lavender,honey,roseandalmond.Thetravelrangeisparticularly its signaturefragranceshaveremainedtruetoProvençalroots,rich with Although ithasexpandedworldwideandbecomeahigh-street name, Provence, beganhumblyin1976theHaute-Provencevillageof Volx. b 04 92310976 www.loccitane.com L’Occitane enProvence

), which bottles the spirit of ancient ), whichbottlesthespiritofancient 11 97 83 6234 ing holiday.Italsooffersbike could possiblyneedforacamp- lifejackets, itsellseverythingyou sports kitsuchashelmetsand expedition. Aswellasriver- place tokitthefamilyoutforan this shoponitsmainstreetisthe the adventurerinallofus,and Castellane (p. 225)bringsout 36 rueNationale,Castellane, L’Échoppe MC, V. Open Daily10am–7:30pm.Credit agate, onyxandjasper. and theloosepolishedpebblesof also lovethelittlestoneanimals quoise androsequartz.Children made ofonyx,amethyst,tur- gles andpolishedstoneeggs choose fromamulets,rings,ban- stones atpocket-moneyprices: things madefromsemi-precious seekers withitsplethoraofpretty Demeter pleasesyoungtreasure- 32 rueduMitan,Castellane, Demeter

★★ b b 04 92 04 96

11/1/10 2:10 PM Family-Friendly Dining

Food Market, Sisteron

hire and organises rafting, walk- prices. Because it’s so popular with ing and canoeing trips. outdoorsy French families all Open Mon–Sat 9am–noon and summer, there are plenty of 2–7pm. Credit MC, V. child-friendly restaurants, cafés and snack bars. That said, few go Magie du Parfum ★★★ out of their way to provide addi- 18 avenue de la Libération, Sisteron, tional amenities such as high- b 04 92 34 28 12, www.magiedu parfum.com chairs or baby-changing facilities, although you will find these in This perfumery and museum sells most hotels and at campsites. its own range of perfumes and cosmetics for men and women, MODERATE including their parfum de Sisteron, Auberge du Point Sublime which is blended from lavender ★★ and other local aromatics. Mums Corniche Sublime, Gorges du Verdon, and daughters will like the on- b 04 90 83 60 35, www.logis-de- site museum’s vast collection of france.fr pretty perfume flasks, bottles, lipsticks and powder boxes. This is the perfect spot for a Open Mon–Sat 9am–noon and break on a drive through the 2–6pm. Adm Free. Credit MC, V. Canyon du Verdon—the view is spectacular, the food is good and there’s parking nearby. As well FAMILY-FRIENDLY as a standard burger-and-chips DINING children’s menu, there’s a second, better-than-average children’s menu offering a smaller We don’t go to Haute-Provence version of the adult menu du ter- for its gastronomy, yet this part roir (local cuisine), including of France offers plenty of solid scaled-down portions of dishes French cooking at reasonable such as crayfish, brochette of 235

12_683361-ch09.indd 235 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 236 236 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence 83 6251 tots willneedahand. makes buggyaccessdifficult,and from theparkingtoterrace short butsteepflightofstepsup crème brûléefordessert.The cheeses, freshfruitandnougator anchoiade (anchovypaste), Provence lamb,freshvegetable 6€. Amenities 13€, setmenu25€,children’s 7–10:30pm. MaincoursesFrom Open Dailynoon–3pmand for familieswithbuggies. up totheterracemaybedifficult salads atsimilarprices.Thesteps at 11€,ortherearetastyseasonal the localtroutisanexcellentbet grown-ups andolderchildren cream—but satisfying,whilefor haché andchipsfollowedbyice children’s menuisbasic—steak can watchtheworldgoby.The square soyouandthechildren has outsidetablesonaquiet cafés onCastellane’smainsquare, from theparadeofrestaurantsand This restaurant,setalittleapart Place del’Église,Castellane, La Forge 10€. Amenities terroir 15€;standardchildren’smenu carte from15€;children’smenudu courses Menuduterroir30€;àla Open Daily10am–9pm.Main Provençal market: Organic foodmarket: General market: Food market: Place St.-Michel,Forcalquier,Monmorning. TIP TheBestLocalMarkets

★ Placedel’Horloge,Sisteron,Wedmorning.

centralCastellane,MonandWedmornings. centralDigne-les-Bains,WedandSatmornings. PlaceduBourguet,RuedeBereluc-Perussisand b 04 92 breakfast allmorning. street. LaTavernealsoserves town carparkisjustacrossthe easily accessible,andthemain cream oracrepe.Theterraceis ham orcheesepizza,andice spaghetti bolognaise,burger, children’s menuwithachoiceof grills, steaksandpizzas,a (and translatedintoEnglish): The menuischeapandcheerful from youngerfamilymembers. provoking squealsofamusement diners onthestreetsideterrace, tently spraysafinemistover lane: itscoolingsystemintermit- scorching summerdayinCastel- This isourfavouritespotona b 2 placeMarcelSauvaire,Castellane, La Taverne of cold drinks, ice creams, of colddrinks,icecreams, but inadditiontoitsformerarray informal familylunch.Itstill is, Mées asagreatsnackbarforan local spotinthemiddleofLes We’ve longknownthischeerful b 1 placedelaRépublique,LesMées, Les Affa’mées menu 7€. courses 10€–11.50€.Children’s Open Daily9am–10pm.Main INEXPENSIVE 04 92836023 04 92345197

★★

★ 11/1/10 2:10 PM Family-Friendly Accommodation TIP Picnic with a View Just outside Les Mées, on the way to Digne, the Aire Touristique at Les Pénitents des Mées lies, literally, in the shadow of the weird grey rock formations for which the village is famous. This grassy picnic spot has plenty of room for children to let off steam, plus benches and tables for family picnics. You can pick up supplies at Mées market on Tuesday or Friday mornings; if it’s not market day there’s an Intermarché supermarket nearby.

sandwiches and salads to eat at the This bastion of luxury inns and terrace tables or take on a picnic, it restaurants near to the Verdon is now a full-on pizzeria with more gorges (p. 228) is the perfect than 50 choices on the menu. overnight option for the well- Open 9am–7pm daily. Pizzas from heeled, especially foodies—it’s 8.50€. Credit MC, V. owned by world-renowned chef Alain Ducasse and has a signature fine-dining restaurant. Young chil- FAMILY-FRIENDLY dren aren’t overlooked, though, ACCOMMODATION with children’s menus provided on request, plus excellent picnic Haute-Provence isn’t over- baskets for alfresco lunches. As endowed with good accommo- well as the heated pool (with dation for families; most hotels Jacuzzi), little ones can enjoy the and guesthouses in towns and horses, chickens and Bambi-like villages are simply too poky. On deer, and older children can the other hand, there are heaps explore the surrounding park- of good gîtes, many with pools— land on mountain bikes. check them out on www.gites- Rooms 12. Rates Packages 190– de-france.com. If you want 400€ per night. Amenities facilities such as a big swimming In room pool and a play area, think about staying on a campsite—they’re MODERATE mostly great value and far from Hôtel au Naturel Moulin du spartan, and you won’t even Château ★★ need to pack a tent because most St. -Laurent du Verdon, b 04 92 74 offer cosy chalets and mobile 02 47, www.moulin-du-chateau. homes. We’ve picked two of our com favourite sites below. For families who want to get EXPENSIVE away from it all, this is the busi- ★★ ness. Surrounded by olive groves, La Bastide de Moustiers the former olive-oil mill is the Moustiers-Ste-Marie, b 04 92 70 47 only hotel within the Parc Naturel 47, www.bastide-moustiers.com Régional du Verdon (Verdon Regional Natural Park, p. 229), 237

12_683361-ch09.indd 237 11/1/10 2:10 PM 12_683361-ch09.indd 238 238 9 Alpes de Haute-Provence rcn-campings.fr while guided walks in the regional while guidedwalksintheregional facilities lessthan2kmaway, advantage oftennisandriding loving olderchildrencanalsotake park startatthefrontdoor. you needtobring yourownbed kitchens forfourtosixpeople; mobile homeswithadequate a tent—therearechaletsand hunts. Youdon’thavetostay in from face-paintingtotreasure it hostschildren’sentertainment ties andahugeswimmingpool, rites—as wellasplentyofactivi- adventures, isoneofourfavou- of theVerdonregionwithallits near Castellane,onthedoorstep This reasonablypricedcampsite Castellane, Castellane Camping LesCollinesde Credit MC,V.Amenities bed 20€(15€under-12s);cot15€. 105€. Ratesincludebreakfast.Extra Rooms 10.RatesDoublesfrom small lake1 no pool,butyoucanswimina themselves wakingearly.There’s to thedawnchorusmayfind garden, socity-dwellersunused butterflies thronginthesunny Provence issweltering.Birdsand pleasantly coolwhentherestof and atalmost500mup,it’s made inBali.At22rueduMitanyou’llfind pedestrian shoppingstreet,whichislinedwithshopspurveyingcolourfultat Wicker chairsandtablessurroundasplashingfountainonCastellane’s relaxed spotforicecreams,lolliesandcolddrinks. INEXPENSIVE TIP Inroom TheBestIceCreamStop b 1 04 92836896,www. ⁄

2 ★★★ km away.Outdoors-

international.fr 83 6667,www.camping- In room and Dutch. As well as a huge and Dutch.Aswellasahuge English, French,Italian,German municating inaweirdmixtureof lies fromalloverEurope,com- always havefunherewithfami- people livesuptoitsname—we homes andchaletsforfourtosix This bigcampsitewithitsmobile Route Palud,Castellane, ★★★ Camping L’International Credit MC,V.Amenities mobile homes108€–800€week. people), chaletswithverandasand pitches from49.50€(maximumsix mobile homes30.RatesTent Tent pitches160.Chaletsand cial offers. linen. Checkthewebsiteforspe- MC, V.Amenities Rates 210€–775€perweek.Credit Chalets andmobilehomes60. activities. with itsshops,restaurantsand drive fromCastellane(p. 225), yon country,andisonlyashort holiday aroundtheVerdoncan- base foranadventurousfamily fields, thiscampsiteistheperfect polo. Surroundedbywoodsand dren, fromtabletennistowater there’s plentygoingonforchil- no-frills barbecuerestaurant, pool, children’splaygroundand Le GlacierChezJo

Inroom

—a cooland b

04 92

11/1/10 2:10 PM

Index

A Marseille and Aix-Provence area, 151–152 Abbaye de Lérins (Île Saint-Honorat), 68 Monaco and French Riviera, 70 Abbaye de St.-André (Villeneuve lez Nîmes and Camargue, 176–178 Avignon), 204 western Côte and inland Var, 124, 125 Aboard Rafting (Castellane), 232–233 Annonciade Museum (St.-Tropez), 8 Accommodations, 13–14, 40–46 Antibes, 5, 62–63 Alpes de Haute-Provence, 237, 238 Antibes Bowling, 72 Avignon and Vaucluse, 217–220 Antibes Land theme park, 76 Grasse and Arrière-Pays, 110–114 Antique-car museum (Mougins), 95 Marseille and Aix-Provence area, 146, ANT Tourisme, 104 163–166 Apartments, 43–44 Monaco and French Riviera, 84–88 Apt, 198, 199 Nîmes and Camargue, 190–192 Aquacity (Plan de Campagne), 155 western Côte and inland Var, 135, Aqualand, 121, 123, 129 137–140 Aquariums. See Animal attractions and Active families, activities for, 76–77 aquariums Alpse de Haute-Provence, 232–234 Aquasplash (Antibes), 76 Avignon and Vaucluse, 209–212 Aquatropic (Nîmes), 184 Grasse and Arrière-Pays, 104, 105 Arc de Triomphe (Orange), 201, 207 Marseille and Aix-Provence area, Archaeological Museum (Nice), 72–73 157–159 Arles, 5, 170, 173, 183, 188, 190–191 Monaco and French Riviera, 76–77 Arrière-Pays, 90–114 Nîmes and Camargue, 183–184 accomodations, 110–114 western Côte and inland Var, 130–131 for active families, 104–105 Adventure Golf (Antibes), 76 animal attractions and aquariums, Aigues-Mortes, 170, 172, 173 96–98 Aïoli, 161 arts and crafts, 101–103 Aire Touristique, 237 events and entertainment, 93, 94 Air travel, 29–31 family-friendly dining, 107–110 Aix-en-Provence, 5, 146 historic buildings and monuments, 99 accommodations, 146, 165–166 museums, 99–100 dining, 162–163 natural attractions and views, 96–99, events and entertainment, 145, 146 101 historic buildings and monuments, 153 shopping, 105–107 natural attractions and views, 150–152 top attractions, 92, 93 shopping, 159, 160 tours, 103, 104 top attractions, 144–145 towns and villages, 94–96 tours, 156–157 visitor information, 91–92 visitor information, 143–144 Art galleries and museums, 8, 75 Alpes de Haute-Provence, 222–238 Arts and crafts accommodations, 237, 238 Avignon and Vaucluse, 208 animal attractions and aquariums, Grasse and Arrière-Pays, 101–103 228–229 Marseille and Aix-Provence area, 156 dining, 235–237 Nîmes and Camargue, 182 events and entertainment, 225 western Côte and inland Var, 130 historic buildings and monuments, Atelier Paul Cézanne (Aix-en-Provence), 229–230 144, 153 museums, 230–231 Atelier Terre (St.-Quentin la Poterie), 182 natural attractions and views, 228, 229 ATMs, 21, 22, 49 shopping, 234, 235 Auron ski area, 104 top attractions, 224 Avignon, 5, 199, 200 tours, 231, 232 accommodations, 217–218 towns and villages, 225–228 for active families, 209, 211 visitor information, 223–225 dining, 213–215 Animal attractions and aquariums, 7, 8 events and entertainment, 198 Alpes de Haute-Provence, 228–229 historic buildings and monuments, Avignon and Vaucluse, 203–204 205–206 Grasse and Arrière-Pays, 96–98 museums, 208

239

13_683361-bindex.indd 239 11/1/10 2:10 PM 13_683361-bindex.indd 240 240 # Running IndexHead Azur Parc(St.-Tropez),121,129 Azur ExpressTouristTrain(Monaco),77 Avignon (cont.) Camargue, 168–192,178 Calissons (Aix),144 Calanques, 2–3,144,147 Cagnes-sur-Mer, 63 Cabris, 6 C Business hours,50,51 Buses, 32–33 Buggy Cross(Mougins),92,104–105 Buggies, 211 Bowling delaValentine(Marseille),150 Bowling, 4,72,150 Boucherie Lerda(Mougins),95 Bormes-les-Mimosas, 123 Boating, 3 Biot, 95 Bicycling, 3,27–28,40 Benedictine charterhouse(Avignon),199 Beaux ArtsMuseum(Nice),65 Beaulieu-sur-Mer, 65,66 Beaugensiers Farm(Toulon),4 Beaucaire, 170 Beaches B&Bs, 14,111–114 Baume Bonnegrotto(Quinson),230 Bâteaux Verts(Ste.-Maxime),121 Basse Corniche,66 Base Nature,123,126 Barbajuans, 83 Banking, 49 Balade enKayak(Avignon),209 Badaboum Théâtre(Marseille),145,148 Babyland themepark(LeGrau-du-Roi), Babies, travellingwith,49 B 178 visitor information,194–196 top attractions,197 natural attractionsandviews,204 historic buildingsandmonuments, events andentertainment,171,172 dining, 188–189 cities, townsandresorts,172–176 arts andcrafts,182 animal attractionsandaquariums, for activefamilies,183–184 accommodations, 191–192 western Côte,118–121 Nîmes andCamargue,184 French Riviera,59,62,74–77 Avignon andVaucluse,197 Arrière-Pays, 101 Alpes deHaute-Provence,232–233 western Côte,118,120,121,125 Monaco andFrenchRiviera,62,68,69 Marseille andAix-Provencearea,151 Camargue, 176 best, 6,27 179, 180 176–178 Cinéma CésarIandII(Apt),198 Cinéma Casino(Vence),94 Cinéma CannetToiles(LeCannet),61 Cimiez, 65,102 Cigales, 114 Cicadas, 114 Christmas inProvence,165 Children’s Festival(Hyères),128 Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, 214,218 Château LaBarben(Salon-de-Provence), Château d’Uzès,7,175–176,179,180 Château duCirque(Piolenc),197 Château d’If(Marseille),153–154,157 Chartreuse duValdeBénédiction Chapelle duRosaire(Vence),95 Chagall Museum(Cimiez),60 Cézanne, Paul,144,153,156–157 Cemenelum (Nice),72–73 Cell phones,47,48 Castles, 7–8 Castellane, 225,226 Cassis, 146,147 Cashpoints, 21,22 Cascades desDemoiselles,101 Cascade deCourmes,101 Car rentals,36 Carré d’Art(Nîmes),173,180 Carpentras, 200–201 Carague Safari(Stes.-Maries-de-la-Mer), Canyoning, 101 Canyon Forest,63,76 Canoe Evasion(Isle-sur-la-Sorgue), Cannes Bowling,72 Cannes, 63,64,82,83,86–87 Canadairs (seaplanes),102 Camping, 14,44–45 Cities, towns,andresorts Cité Episcopale(Fréjus),127,128 Citadelle deSisteron,228–230 Cirque AlexisGruss(Piolenc),203 Cinéma 3Casino(Gardanne),145 Cinémathèque deNice,61 Cinéma Sporting(Monaco),61 Cinemas Cinéma Rialto(Nice),61 Cinéma Lido(St.-Raphaël),119 Cinéma EspaceCentre(Cagnes-sur-Mer), 152 (Villeneuve lezAvignon),205–206 183 209–210 61 visitor information,169–170 tours, 183 top attractions,170–171 shopping, 184–186 natural attractionsandviews,176, museums, 180,181 Marseille andAix-Provence area, Grasse andArrière-Pays,94–96 Avignon andVaucluse,198–202 Alpes deHaute-Provence,225–228 western CôteandinlandVar,119 Nîmes andCamargue,183 Monaco andFrenchRiveria,61 Marseille andAix-Provencearea,145 Grasse andArrière-Pays,94 Avignon andVaucluse,198 Alpes deHaute-Provence,226 178, 179 146–149 11/1/10 2:10 PM Index 241 11/1/10 2:10 PM11/1/10 2:10 PM 146 accommodations, 84–87 for active families, 76–77 animal attractions and aquariums, 70 Alpes de Haute-Provence, 225 Alpes de Haute-Provence, Vaucluse, 197–198 Avignon and 93, 94 Grasse and Arrière-Pays, area, 145, Marseille and Aix-Provence 60–62 Monaco and French Riviera, Nîmes and Camargue, 171–172 Var, 119–120 western Côte and inland (St.-Paul de Vence), 92 144 199, 204 (Mornas), 197 (Forcalquier), 233 138 203–204 Carlo, 60–61 de Vence), 8, 96, 99–100 Rouet), 145 123, 126 Fondation Maeght Giacometti courtyard Font’Arts (Pernes-les Fontaines), 198 Forcalquier, 226–227 Forest Eco-museum (Aix-en-Provence), 7, Forest fires, 102 Fort de Savoie (Colmars), 224, 230 Fort de St.-André (Villeneuve lez Avignon), Forteresse de Mornas Visites Animées Four-wheel-drive tours, 103 Fragonard perfume factory (Grasse), 100 Fragonard petit train (Grasse), 105 France Montgolfières Balloon fights Free activities, 2–3 Fréjus, 5, 119, 121–123, 132, 133, 137, French Riviera, 56–88 Ferme aux Crocodiles (Avignon), 7, 197, Ferme aux Crocodiles (Avignon), Ferries, 30–32 62 Festival d’Art Pyrotechnique, Festival d’Avignon, 198 Festival de la Sorgue, 197–198 Festival du Cheval, 172 Festival International du Cirque de Monte- Fête de la Bravade (St.-Tropez), 119–120 Fête des Enfants (Hyères), 120 Fête de St.-Pierre, 145–147 Fête du Citron (Menton), 62 Fêtes de la Tarasque (Tarascon), 171 Fêtes Florales (Grasse), 93 Film festival (Cannes), 86 Flayosc (Draguigan), 120 Florian factory, 92 Fondation Maeght art museum (St.-Paul Étangs de Villepey nature reserve (Fréjus), nature reserve (Fréjus), Étangs de Villepey 148 Euroméditerranée, 5, 24 Events and entertainment, F Farmer’s markets, 3 216 Farms, 4, 112, 140, 177, Féria de Nîmes, 171 Eldorado cinema (Draguignan), 119 (Draguignan), cinema Eldorado 52 Electricity, 52 Embassies, 52 Emergencies, 93, 94 (Valbonne), Enfantillages cinema (Carry-le- Espace Fernandel 160–163 family highlights, 2–14 maps, 16–17 Monaco and French Riviera, 62–66 Riviera, French and Monaco 172–176 and Camargue, Nîmes Var, 120–123 Côte and inland western Alpes de Haute-Provence, 235–237 Avignon and Vaucluse, 213–217 Grasse and Arrière-Pays, 107–110 Marseille and Aix-Provence area, Monaco and French Riviera, 79–84 Nîmes and Camargue, 186–189 western Côte and inland Var, 132–137 Vaucluse), 3, 208 (Tourrettes-Sur-Loup), 3, 101 (Tourrettes-Sur-Loup), 225 157, 158 76–77 211 Customs, 19–20 Courgette-blossom Fritters, 111 Courgette-blossom Fritters, Cours Saleya (Nice), 59, 65 224 Crèche de Haute Provence, Credit cards, 21–22, 52–53 Crin Blanc (film), 178 de Cristallerie des Papes (Fontaine Currency, 21 Consulates, 52 Consulates, 4 Cookery classes, Corniches, 66, 67 Corso de la Lavande (Digne-les-Bains), Côte Bleue, 145, 156–158 Côte Bleue Plongée (Sausset-les-Pins), Côte d’Azur City Pass (Marseille), 157 (Marseille), City Pass 22–23 Climate, (Orange), 201 Colline d’Eutrope 123 Collobrières, Colmars, 6, 226 Rustrel (Apt), 199 Colorado de 9 Confectioners, sweet factory Confiserie Florian E Eau Vive Evasion, 101 Ecole de Voile, Yacht Club d’Antibes, Ecomusée de la Fôret (Gardanne), 152 Eco-Museum (St.-Martin de Crau), 176 Diving, 157, 158 Doctors, 51 Dolphin watching, 75, 119 Domaine du Rayol, 125–126 Domaine Paul Ricard Méjanes, 178 Donkey rides, 197 Draguigan, 120 Drinking water, 54 Driving, 32, 34–39 Dining, 11–13, 46–47 Disabilities, travellers with, 20 D Découverte du Terroir en Buggy (Bédoin), Dentelles de Montmirail, 202, 217 Devalkart (Beaumont du Ventoux), 211 Digne-les-Bains, 226 13_683361-bindex.indd 24113_683361-bindex.indd 241 13_683361-bindex.indd 242 242 # Running IndexHead Hermes birthplace(Fréjus),128 Hermann tortoise,125 Héli AirMonaco,75,76,104 Health, 26–27 Haute-Provence. SeeAlpesde Haribo sweetmuseum(Uzès),175, Haras d’UzèsNationalStud(Uzès),175, H Grottes deSt.-Cézaire,4,96–97 Grimaud, 123,132 Grasse, 94 Grands BateauxdeProvence,208,209 Grande Corniche,66,67 Grand CanyonduVerdon,224 Graine andFicelle(Saint-Jean-net),4,97, Gourdon, 96 Gorges duVerdon(Moustiers-Ste.-Marie), Gorges duLoup(Grasse),101 Gorges duCians,101 Gorges deSaorge(Breil-sur-Roya),3,101 Gorges deDaluis,3,92,101 Gordes, 6,203 Gonfaron, 123 Glanum (St.-Rémy-de-Provence),179 Gîtes, 20,44,140 Geins peninsula(Hyères),3,120,126 Gardon River,175 Gardens, 7.SeealsoNaturalattractions Gardanne, 151 G Fun ParcAdventure(Richerenches),211 Funboard Center(Hyères),130 French Riviera(cont.) 180–181 177 98 3, 228,229 and views Haute-Provence visitor information,91–92 top attractions,92 shopping, 105–107 natural attractionsandviews,101 museums, 100 events andentertainment,93 dining, 107–109 arts andcrafts,102,103 accommodations, 111 visitor information,57–59 tours, 75,76 top attractions,59,60 shopping, 77–79 natural attractionsandviews,66–69, museums, 72–75 historic buildingsandmonuments,71, events andentertainment,61,62 dining, 79–83 cities, townsandresorts,62–66 beaches, 68,69 71 72 International FestivalofFashionand Insurance, 26 Inland Var Indoor activities,4 Indian ForestSud(Martigues),8,158 Île Ste.Marquerite,6,60,67,68 Île St.-Honorat,6 Îles duFrioul,154,158 Îles d’Or(Hyères),118,120,126,127 Îles desLérins,63,67–69 Île Saint-Honorat,67–69 Île duLevant,127 Ice creamshops,12–13,85,110,136, I Hyères, 120,136,139 Hotels, 41–42.SeealsoAccommodations Hotel-residences, 42 Hôtel duCapEden-Roc,62 Hot-air balloon(HauteProvence),9 Horseback riding,3,95,118,170, Holiday villages,43 Holidays, 23,24 Holiday Bikes(Avignon),211 Historic buildingsandmonuments,7–8 Hilltop villages,5–6,96 Hilltop Cabris,96 Hiking, 101 Juan-les-Pins, 62–63 Jean-Henri Fabre’sJardindesInsectes, 7, Jazz festivals,59,62 Jazz àJuan(Juan-les-Pins),62–63 Jasmin Festival(Grasse),93 Jardin duPalaisCarnolès(Menton),71 Jardin d’OiseauxTropicaux,124 Jardin d’Eté(Arles),178,179 Jardin desPapillons(Digne-les-Bains),7, Jardin BotaniquedesCordeliers(Digne- Jardin Botanique(Ste.-Maxime),121 J Isola 2000skiarea,93,104 Internet access,48–49 162, 189,215,238 183–184 197 224, 228–229 les-Bains), 226 Photography (Hyères),128 visitor information,117 historic buildingsandmonuments, dining, 136–137 cities, townsandresorts,120 accommodations, 136,140 western CôteandinlandVar,127,128 Nîmes andCamargue,179,180 Monaco andFrenchRiviera,71,72 Marseille andAix-Provencearea, Grasse andArrière-Pays,99 Avignon andVaucluse,205–207 Alpes deHaute-Provence,229–230 127, 128 153–154 11/1/10 2:10 PM Index 243 11/1/10 2:10 PM11/1/10 2:10 PM 153–154 events and entertainment, 60–62 museums, 73–75 natural attractions and views, 71 historic buildings and monuments, museums, 154–155 natural attractions and views, 149–152 shopping, 159, 160 top attractions, 144, 145 tours, 156, 157 visitor information, 143–144 accommodations, 87, 88 dining, 83–84 Alpes de Haute Provence, 236 Avignon and Vaucluse, 212 Grasse and Arrière-Pay, 106 Marseille and Aix-Provence area, 160 Monaco and French Riviera, 79 Nîmes and Camargue, 185 Uzès, 170 western Côte and inland Var, 133 accommodations, 163–165 for active families, 158–159 arts and crafts, 156 dining, 160–162 events and entertainment, 145 Maritimes), 6, 92, 103 Provence), 4, 156 Loubet), 63 (Serignan du Comtat), 204 75 Bains), 224, 231, 232 Bains), Mas (farmhouse), 113 Massif de Maures, 123, 125, 131 Mat & Eau, 101 Medical attention, 25–26 Mercantour National Park (Alpes- Mercury cinema (Nice), 61 Mimosa Festival, 119 Mistral winds, 113 Mobile phones, 47, 48 Monaco, 5, 63–64 Marché République (St.-Raphaël), 123 Marché République (St.-Raphaël), Marina Baie des Anges (Villeneuve- Marineland (Antibes), 8, 63, 70, 76 Markets Marseille, 5, 148 L’Occitane (Manosque), 234 L’Occitane (Manosque), 52 Lost property, 76, 123 Luna Park (Nice), Lurs, 227 M Magazines, 53 155 Magic Land (Carry-le-Rouet), Magic World (Hyères), 129 179 Maison Carrée (Nîmes), 173, Fabre Maison Natale de Jean-Henri 151 Maison Ste.-Victoire (St.-Antonin), (Nice), 65, MAMAC modern art museum 69 Man in the Iron Mask, 68, 197 Marché Médievale (Mornas), School (Aix-en- Marc Heracle’s Cooking Le Train des Pignes à Vapeur (Digne-les- Vapeur à Pignes des Le Train 177 Mas (Beaucaire), Le Vieux 50, 51, 127 Literature, 4, 77 Trains, Little Tourist (Hyères), 119 L’Oblia cinema 131 145 (Forcalquier), 232 Fontaines), 225 132 226 226 70, 76 4, 102 (Provence), 3, 127, 128 (Provence), 3, Les Rencontres d’Arles festival, 173 Les Rencontres du 9ème art (Aix), 145 L’Estaque, 146 Le Studio (Grasse), 94 Le Suquet (Cannes), 63 Les Visiteurs du Soir (Vallbonne), 94 Le Tholonet, 151 Les Arcades cinema (Salon-de-Provence), Les Aventuriers de la Pigne Magique Le Sémaphore cinema (Nîmes), 183 Les Eskimos à l’Eau, 101 Les Folklories de Pernes (Pernes-les- Les Pénitents des Mées, 228 Les Petits Bricoleurs (Forcalquier), 232 Les Poneys de Verderet (Ste.-Maxime), Le Jarditrain (St.-Didier), 4, 201 Le Marzarin cinema (Aix), 145 Le Pagnol cinema (Ste.-Maxime), 119 Le Petit Montmartre (Monaco), 88 Le Petit Train de Pignes (Ste.-Maxime), Le Renoir cinema (Aix), 145 Lérins islands, 83 Le Royal cinema (Toulon), 119 Les Arcades (Cannes), 61 Le Cézar cinema (Marseille), 145 Le Cinéma (Lorgues), 119 Le Cinématographe (Château-Arnoux), Le Félibrige cinema (Gréoux-les-Bains), Le Femina cinema (Cavaillon), 198 Legal aid, 52 Le Grand Tour (Marseille), 157 Le Jardin de César et Léonie (Le Muy), 129 Lasergame Evolution (Marseille), 4, 150 Lasergame Evolution (Marseille), 94 La Strada (Mouans-Sartoux), Fleurs (Vence), L’Atelier de la Cuisine des La Tinée (Vence), 95 La Turbie, 96 225, 229 La Vallée Sauvage (St. Geniez), La Vésubie (Vence), 95 Le Candille (Mougins), 94 Le Capitole cinema (Uzès), 183 La Bastide St. Antoine (Grasse), 94 La Bastide St. (Uzès), 184 La Bouscarasse 63 Labyrinthe de L’Aventure, 227, 229 Lac de Ste.-Croix, 6, 224, La Crau plain, 176 216 La Ferme de l’Oiselet (Sarrians), La Garrigue scrubland, 177 130 L’AM Santonnière (Fréjus), (Antibes), 8, La Petite Ferme du Far West K (Collias), 184 Vert Gardon Kayak 129 Parc (Hyères), Kiddy 76 (Menton), Koaland L Ste.-Marie-Madeleine La Basilique 13_683361-bindex.indd 24313_683361-bindex.indd 243 13_683361-bindex.indd 244 244 # Running IndexHead Museums, 8 Museum oftheSea(ÎleSte.Marguerite), Museum ofProvenceLandings(Mont Musée TerreetTemps(Sisteron),231 Musée Souleiado(Tarascon),182 Musée ScoutBadenPowell(Sisteron),231 Musée Renoir(Cagnes-sur-Mer),75 Musée Picasso(Antibes),75 Musée OceanographiquedeMonaco,73, Musée Nostradamus(Salon-de-Provence), Musée NationalPicasso(Vallauris),75 Musée NationalMessageBibliqueMarc Musée Matisse(Nice),72–73 Musée Lapidaire(Avignon),208 Musée InternationaldelaParfumerie Musée Granet(Aix-en-Provence),153 Musée duVieuxNîmes,170,181–182 Musée duSavonMariusFabre(Salon-de- Musée duBonbon(Uzès),180–181 Musée desBeaux-Arts(Nice),75 Musée desArtsetTraditionsPopulaires Musée dePréhistoiredesGorgesdu Musée del’Empéri(Salon-de-Provence), Musée del’ArlesetlaProvence Musée delaPoterieMediterranéenne(St.- Musée del’Annonciade(St.-Tropez),121, Musée delaLavande(Coustellet),208 Musée Cantini(Marseille),8,146,154,155 Musée AuBonbon(Uzès),170 Musée ArcheologiqueTheoDesplans Musée Archéologique(Fréjus),128,129 Moyenne Corniche,66 Moustiers-Ste.-Marie, 227 Moulin deMougins,94 Mougins ridingschool,104 Mougins, 6,94,95,110–111 Motorhomes, 38,39 Mornas Castle,5 Monuments. SeeHistoricbuildingsand Mont Ventoux(Vaucluse),197,202,203 Mont Pelat(Colmars),226 Mont Faron(Toulon),118,123,124 Mons, 6,123 Monaco (cont.) 68 Faron), 124 74 154 Chagall (Nice),73 (Grasse), 100 Provence), 149,155–156 (Draguignan), 120 Verdon (Quinson),8,224,230–231 149, 155 Antiques, 179 Quentin laPoterie),182 129, 130 (Vaison-la-Romaine), 207 monuments visitor information,57–59 tours, 75,76 top attractions,59,60 shopping, 78 western Côteandinland Var,128–130 Nîmes andCamargue, 180–182 Monaco andFrenchRiviera,72–75 Marseille andAix-Provencearea, Grasse andArrière-Pays,99–100 Avignon andVaucluse,208 Alpes deHaute-Provence,230–231 154–156 Outdoor activities,8–9 Orange, 201,215,219 Open AirCinema(Monaco),4,61 Olympique deMarseillefootballclub,150 Oiselet Farm(Vaucluse),4 Ochre clay,212 Oceanographic Museum(Monaco),7,60, Occitan language,10,11 Observatoire deHaute-Provence O Nuits delaCitadellefestival(Sisteron),228 Notting Hill(film),102 Notre-Dame desAnges,123 Notre-Dame delaGarde,157 Nostradamus, 149,154 Nîmes, 168–192,173–175 Nice JazzFestival,62 Nice Carnival,61 Nice Bowling,72 Nice, 5,64,65,67,79–82,84–86 Ni Box(Monaco),59,72 Newspapers, 53 Naturoscope (Marseille),158–159 Natural attractionsandviews,6–7 N Parc OrnithologiqueduPontdeGau Parc OlbiusRiquier(Hyères),128 Parc NaturelRégionalduVerdon,6,225, Parc NaturelRégionalduLuberon(Apt), 6, Parc NationalduMercantor,98 Parc duPharo(Marseille),13,163 Parc duChâteau(Nice),13,65,82 Parc DépartementaldelaValmasque,98 Parc DépartementaldelaBrague Parc Borély(Marseille),152,157 Parc ArbresetAventures(Comars),8,224, Palais desPâpes(Avignon),8,200,206 Palais desFestivals(Cannes),63 Paintball 06(Saint-PauldeVence),100 P 64, 77,88 (Forcalquier), 226–227 (Stes.-Maries-de-la-Mer), 7,176,177 229 198, 204,205 (Valbonne), 98 233–234 visitor information,169–170 top attractions,170 shopping, 185–186 museums, 180–182 events andentertainment,171 dining, 186–188 accommodations, 190 western CôteandinlandVar,123–127 Nîmes andCamargue,176,178,179 Monaco andFrenchRiviera,66–69,71 Marseille andAix-Provencearea, Grasse andArrière-Pays,96–99 Avignon andVaucluse,202–205 Alpes deHaute-Provence,228,229 149–152 11/1/10 2:10 PM Index 245 11/1/10 2:10 PM11/1/10 2:10 PM 159, 160 Avignon and Vaucluse, 212, 213 Grasse and Arrières-Pay, 105–107 Marseille and Aix-Provence area, 144, Monaco and French Riviera, 77–79 Nîmes and Carmargue, 184–186 western Côte and inland Var, 131, 132 Alpes de Haute-Provence, 234, 235 Loubet), 63 166 178 Park (Monaco), 7, 71 Park (Monaco), Ane de Bat (Le Beaucet), 210 Bat (Le Beaucet), Ane de Single parents, 28 Sisteron, 227–228 Skating, 59, 72 Skiing, 98, 224 Snowboarding, 93 Soap museum (Salon-de-Provence), 145 Socca, 81 Special needs, travellers with, 20–21 Square de Verdun, 72 Stade Vélodrome (Marseille), 150, 157 Station Kid designation (Villeneuve- Swimming, 3, 92, 101, 145, 217, 224 St.-Tropez, 5, 120–121, 134–136, 138, 139 St.-Tropez, 5, 120–121, 134–136, Saint-Cézaire caves, 92 Ste.-Croix du Verdon, 229 133, 134, 138 Ste.-Maxime, 5, 120–121, Sainte-Agnès, 96 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 65 Saint-Paul de Vence, 95, 96 Salon-de-Provence, 148, 149, 154, 163, Santa Azur, 104 Santa Lucia Marina (St.-Raphaël), 123 Saut du Loup, 101 Scénoparc (St.-Martin Vésubie), 6, 98, 104 Seaquarium (Le Grau-du-Roi), 7, 173, 177, Senior travellers, 20 Sentiers des Ochres (Rustrel), 210, 212 Serre de la Madone garden (Menton), 71 Shopping, 9, 10, 24 Restrooms, 54 (Avignon), 217 Rocher des Doms 9, 101 Rock climbing, (Nîmes), 170, 179 Roman amphitheatre 179 Roman Empire, 197, 201, 217 Roman theatres, Grace & Sculpture Roseraie Princesse Roussillon, 6, 203 Roya Evasion, 101 Rues en Fête (Sisteron), 225 S Safety, 27, 53 St.-Antonin, 151 217 St.-Eutrope (Orange), 13, St.-Laurent d’Aigouze, 172 133, 137 St.-Raphaël, 119, 121–123, Randonnée Pedestre Accompagné d’un Accompagné Pedestre Randonnée 232 (Forcalquier), Pitchoun tours Rando 63 Museum (Cagnes-sur-Mer), Renoir resorts towns, and 5. See Cities, Resorts, tourism, 27–28 Responsible cost of items in, 39 family highlights, 2–14 maps, 16–17 Alpes de Haute-Provence, 237 Alpes de Haute-Provence, Avignon and Vaucluse, 217 Marseille, 163 Mont Faron, 124 Square de Verdun, 72 Uzès, 188 Var, 137 western Côte and inland 156 sur-Mer), 66 152 179, 184 103 8–9, 197, 210 183–184 Provence Postal service, 52 Pottery making, 65 Préau des Accoules (Marseille), 3, 148, Prescriptions, 26 Promenade des Anglais (Nice), 65 Promenade des Évêques (Lurs), 227 Promenade des Marronniers (Uzès), 188 Promenade Maurice Rouvier (Beaulieu- Planétarium Peiresc (Aix-en-Provence), Poissonerie Develay (Mougins), 94, 95 Police, 53 Pont de Gau, 171 Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct, 171, 175, Pont St.-Bénezet (Avignon), 197, 200, 206 Porquerolles, 126 Port Cros, 126, 127 Porte d’Horloge (Lurs), 227 Pierre de la Fée (Draguignan), 130 Pierre de la Fée (Draguignan), 217 Piscines des Cedres (Orange), 76 Pitchoun Forest (Villeneuve-Loubet), Passports, 19–20 Peillon, 96 (Molinard), 92 Perfume making 77, 157 Petits trains touristiques, 182 Petit Train d’Aigues-Mortes, Pets, travelling with, 20 Pharmacies, 53 Philip Fair, 200 Physicians, 51 Picnics, 13, 82, 109 Parc Phoenix (Nice), 65 (Nice), Phoenix Parc 71 (Monaco), Antoinette Parc Princesse 128 120, (Hyères), Parc St.-Bernard 152 (Aix-en-Provence), Parc St.-Mitre 120, 128 (Hyères), Parc Ste.-Claire de Fréjus, 125 Parc Zoologique 102, (Grasse), 4, 100, Parfumerie Molinard and views Parks. See Natural attractions Cîmes (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue), Passerelle des R Ramatuelle, 123 Ranch La Brouzetière (Camargue), 3, Q Quad Location (Crillon-le-Brave), 211 13_683361-bindex.indd 24513_683361-bindex.indd 245 13_683361-bindex.indd 246 246 # Running IndexHead Vence, 95,96,109, 110,112–114 Vaucluse, 194–220 Variétés cinema(Marseille),145 Val Rahmehgarden(Menton),71 Vallée desMerveilles(Tende),7,92,98, Valbonne, 95 Valberg skiarea,104 Vaison-la-Romaine, 201,202 V Uzès, 175–176 Utopia laManutentioncinema(Avignon), U Trophée desAlpes,96 Trophée d’Auguste(LaTurbie),99 Travellers’ cheques,22 Tramways (Marseille),148 Train TouristiquedeNîmes,182 Train desMerveilles,6,98–99 Towns. SeeCities,towns,andresorts Tourtour (Draguigan),6,120 Tours Tour PhilippeleBel(Avignon),200 Tourist trains,132,157,182,209,231,232 Toulon, 123,132,139,140 Tortoise Village(Gonfaron),118,123 Toilets, 54 Toddlers, activitiesfor,4 Tipping, 54 Time zone,54 Theme parks,8,63,76,129,155 Théâtre Antiqued’Orange,206–207 Tennis, 76 Telephones, 53–54 Teens, activitiesfor,3–4 Taxis, 39–40,53 Taxes, 53 T 103 198 visitor information, 194–196 tours, 208,209 top attractions,197 shopping, 212–213 natural attractionsandviews,202–205 museums, 208 historic buildingsandmonuments, events andentertainment,197–198 dining, 215–217 cities andtowns,198–202 arts andcrafts,208 animal attractionsandaquariums, for activefamilies,209–212 accommodations, 219–220 package, 33–34 Nîmes andCamargue,183 Monaco andFrenchRiviera,75–77 Marseille andAix-Provencearea, Grasse andArrière-Pays,103,104 Avignon andVaucluse,208,209 Alpes deHaute-Provence,231,232 203–204 156–157 206–207 Western Côte,116–140 Websites, useful,18–19,36 Weather, 22–23 Watersports, 98,119,120,130 Waterparks, 8,184 Water, drinking,54 W Visitor information,18–28 Visiobulle (Capd’Antibes),74,75 Visas, 19–20 Villeneuve-Loubet, 59,63 Villeneuve lezAvignon,199 Villefranche-sur-Mer, 60,65 Villecroze (Draguigan),120 Villas, 43–44 Villa Noailles(Hyères),128 Villa GrecqueKérylos(Beaulieu-sur-Mer), Villages Perchés(hilltopvillages),96 Village desTortues(Gonfaron),4,125 Village desBories(Gordes),8,197,207 Village desAutomates(St.-Cannat),155 Villa EphrussideRothschild(St.-Jean- Views. SeeNaturalattractionsandviews Via Ferrata,9,101 Verrerie deBiot(Fontaine-de-Vaucluse),3, Verdon Gorges,6 Zoo LaBarben(Salon-de-Provence), 144, Z Youth hostels,45–46 Yacht Clubd’Antibes,59 Y Wi-Fi, 48–49 Whale watching,75 65, 71,72 Cap-Ferrat), 8,65,74 103 149, 151–152 beaches, 118,125 arts andcrafts,130 animal attractionsandaquariums,124, for activefamilies,130–131 accommodations, 137–140 western CôteandinlandVar,117,118 Nîmes andCamargue,169–170 Monaco andFrenchRiviera,57–60 Marseille andAix-Provencearea, Grasse andArrière-Pays,91–92 Avignon andVaucluse,194–196 Alpes deHaute-Provence,223–225 visitor information,117,118 top attractions,118,119 shopping, 131,132 natural attractionsandviews,123–127 museums, 128–130 historic buildingsandmonuments,127 events andentertainment,119–120 dining, 132–136 cities, townsandresorts,120–123 125 143–144 11/1/10 2:10 PM Ivrea HHermillonermillon PPontont CCanaveseanavese

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