South Carolina Hash Saddler Taylor University of South Carolina - Columbia, [email protected]

University of South Carolina Scholar Commons Staff ubP lications McKissick Museum 2007 South Carolina Hash Saddler Taylor University of South Carolina - Columbia, [email protected] Stan Woodward Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/mks_staffpub Part of the History Commons Publication Info Published in New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture - Foodways (Volume 7), ed. John T. Edge, 2007, pages 179-181. http://www.uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1192 © 2007 by University of North Carolina Press Used by permission of the University of North Carolina Press. This Article is brought to you by the McKissick Museum at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Staff ubP lications by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. - - - - - - -- - - - --- --- - - - - Hash, South Caro lina In South Carolina, hash ("barbecue hash" in some places) takes the place of honor held by Brunswick stew in Georgia and Virginia and burgoo in Kentucky. Like both Brunswick stew and burgoo, South Carolina hash is widely regarded as an accompaniment to barbecue. Like other stews, hash has a long history and holds an important place as a food of congregation. By the colonial period, hash was a stew made from small pieces of roasted meat of any kind, cooked down with onions, herbs, and vinegar water. Served over rice (or sometimes grits), hash varies in terms of spe cific ingredients from one cook to the HASH, SOUTH CAROtiNA 179 next. Broadly speaking, thert are three be separated into two basic categories: major hash types in South Caroli na, hash with meat that has been processed corresponding to the state's primary in a grinder and hash with meatlhal geographic regions. Hash from the has been "pulled." The laller results Lowcountry consists of several de in hash with a stringy, more irregular boned hogsheads, supplemented with consistency- much different from hash organ meats like pork liver, cooked in cooked with ground meal. a stock that favors tomato and ketchup. While many hash makers still cook Vegetables can indude onions, corn, in the large, cast-iron pots that have and potatoes. Hash from the midlands been a part of the cooking tradition consists primarily of higher-quality cuts for generations, some have opted to go of pork, onions, and a mustard-based with Si milarly sized stainless steel or stock. Finally, Upcountry hash is largely aluminum pots. The quality of the hash beef-based, with no dominant ketchup, produced in such pots is at issue for vinegar, or mustard-based stock. This many hash makers. Some feel that hash hash most resembles the camp stews or produced in cast-iron pots over a wood hUnler's stews of the early 19th century. fed fire is of the best quality. Similar Its ingredients are normally limited to sentiment is found among many who beef, onions, buner, and a variety of make burgoo. Brunswick stew, bogs, seasonings. and muddles. Any mention of stew ingredients While many rural fire departments, yields opportunities to discuss issues of agricultural dubs, and other civic orga socioeconomic class, since most stew nizations cook hash several times a year recipes ultimately come from rural folk for community fund-raisers, the most traditions. The transformation of very prolific producers of South Carolina common ingredients into exceptional hash are locally owned barbecue restau stews is a theme integral to the story of rants, many of which developed from hash making. family "shade tree" cooking traditions. Hash makers from communities These families trad itionally cooked throughout South Carolina- much like barbecue and hash for reunions or the burgoo makers of Owensboro and celebratory occasions like the Fourth of other Kentucky towns-have developed July, but found that demand was high recipes that are a source of immense enough to warrant a full -time venture. local pride. Hash consumers tend to be Whether through restaurants, clubs, loyal to a certain hash maker or at least or churches, groups of all sizes-from develop preferences for certain types families to whole communities-are of hash. In general, folks who prefer involved in the hash making process. mustard-based hash do not consider Over time, people maintain, adapt, and ketchup- or vinegar-based hash to their reform these local traditions. Hash mas liking and vice versa. In addition, the ters, like their stewmaster contempo consistency of the hash is a defining raries in neighboring states, typically go characteristic. In this regard, hash can to great lengths to retain the uniqueness 180 H"5H, SOUTH CAROLINA of both their recipes and their cooking techniques. SADDLER TAYLOR McKissick Museum, Columbia, South Carolina STAN WOODWARD Greenville, South Carolina Karen H~"Ss, The CMolina Ria Kitchen; The African Connection (199l); Annabe!la P. Hill, Mrs. Hill's Southern PraCliUli Cookery and Receipt Book (J995); Mary V. Hugue nin and Anne M. Stoney, cds., Charleston R~uipts (1950); Charles Joyner, Down by the J1.iver>ide: A SlJuth Carolina Slave Commu nity (1984); Sarah Rutledge, The Carolina Housewife (,84?); John Martin Taylor, Hop pin' John's L(tWCounlry Cooking (1991). .

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