Press Kit Contents Page Chablis at a Glance

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Press kit Contents page Chablis at a glance ...... page 3-4 Chablis and Chardonnay ...... page 5 Bourgogne and Chablis ...... page 6 Chablis ...... page 7 The terroir of Chablis ...... page 8 Spring frost in Chablis ...... page 9 Climats and lieux-dits ...... page 10 Chablis tasting notes ...... page 11 Minerality ...... page 12 The AOC’s of Chablis ...... page 13 The AOC’s of Chablis: Petit Chablis and Chablis ...... page 14-15 The AOC’s of Chablis: Chablis Premier Cru ...... page 16 Climats of Chablis Premier ...... page 17 The AOC’s of Chablis: Chablis Grand Cru ...... page 18 ,EVZIWXMRK ZMRM½GEXMSRTEKI The harvet ...... page 20 :MRM½GEXMSRTEKI Sustainability ...... page 22 Hero producers ...... page 23 William Fèvre ...... page 24 Domaine Michelet ...... page 25 La Chablisienne ...... page 26 Domaine des Hâtes ...... page 27 The history of Chablis ...... page 28-29 Travel and toursim ...... page 30 The Fête des vins de Chablis ...... page 31 Marketing information ...... page 32 Chablis at a glance

Mixing rich ancient and modern history, unique terroir and a winemaking community with centuries of expertise, the region of Chablis is rightly talked about as one of the best-loved wine regions in the Old World. Across its AOCs and Climats, Chablis encompasses 714260 of vineyards among and hamlets along the Serein valley, on both sides of the Serein river.

3 While many Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOCs) in France and the Old World can be tricky to grasp, Chablis is a relatively straightforward region, with its winemakers using only the Chardonnay grape to produce still, dry white wines. Chablis wines are therefore not only exceptional, but also easy to understand: characteristic of their unique terroir, excellent in their value and unrivalled in the world of cool-climate Chardonnay, and has become a reference for Chardonnay producers across the world.

A part of the wider Bourgogne winegrowing area, Chablis is home to four tiers of AOC: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru, whose winema- OIVWTVSHYGI[MRIWSJWMKRM½GERXHMZIVWMX]FYXEP[E]WIPIKERXERHSJI\GIPPIRXUYEPMX]

4 Chablis and Chardonnay

Chardonnay is a grape loved in winemaking regions across the globe. =SYGER½RHFIEYXMJYPI\TVIWWMSRWSJXLMWKVETIIZIV][LIVIJVSQ its birthplace and spiritual home in Bourgogne and across the Old World to regions in North and South America, Australia, New Zea- land and more. The Chardonnay grape is notable for its incredible versatility, and its ability to fully express the terroir of the region that produces it. In warmer climates it will tend towards richer WX]PIW[MXLQSVIWXSRIJVYMXERHXVSTMGEPJVYMX¾EZSYVWERHXLIYWI of oak ageing, whereas in cooler climates like Chablis, it’s crisper, with fresher tasting notes and minerality, and very often unoaked.

Unlike many of the regions that specialise in Chardonnay wines, Chablis’s AOC rules mean that for a wine to be la- belled as Chablis, it must be made with 100% Chardonnay. With its cool climate, unique terroir and generations of expertise with this well-loved grape variety, many claim Chablis to produce one of the purest expressions of Chardonnay in the world. 5 Bourgogne and Chablis

Bourgogne (known in many English-speaking countries as Burgundy) is one of the best-known wine regions in France, and produces some of the most respected wines in the world. The region comprises world-famous AOCs including Côte de Beaune and Mâconnais, and renowned villages like Ge- vrey-Chambertin and Meursault, most of which are well known to wine drinkers in the UK, the USA and the rest of the world.

&SYVKSKRI´WGPEWWM½GEXMSRW]WXIQMWYRMUYIXSXLIVIKMSRMXGSQ- prises appellations régionales (like Bourgogne Côte d’Or) and appellations villages (like Pouilly-Fuissé), but it also uses a cru system to mark out exceptional wine-producing areas. Around 10% of Bourgogne’s production is from Premier Cru vineyards, and just over 1% are from Grand Cru vineyards, which tend to be the best, most expensive and most sought-after wines.

Bourgogne is home to 29,395 hectares (72.640 acres) SJ ZMRI]EVHW XLEX EVI GPEWWM½IH EW %TTIPPEXMSR H´3VMKMRI Contrôlée (AOC), and produced an annual harvest vo- lume of around 1.41 million hectoliters (37.3 million gal- PSRW &SYVKSKRI MW GSQTVMWIH SJ ½ZI OI] TVSHYGXMSR regions: Chablis and Grand Auxerrois; Côte de Nuits; Côte de Beaune; Côte Chalonnaise and Le Mâconnais.

6 47 Climats

Located in the Yonne region, Chablis is, in a geographical Chablissense, located very much within Bourgogne – but it can also be considered separate to it from a winemaking and cultural perspective. It uses a similar cru system to denote the mostLocated exceptional in the Yonne wines region,produced Chablis in the is, region, in a geographicalwith Chablis Premiersense, located Cru and very Chablis much Grandwithin BourgogneCru AOCs –the but jewel it can in alsothe Chablisbe considered region’s separatecrown when to it it from comes a winemakingto winemaking. and Chablis cultu- containsral perspective. 5,687 haIt (13,939uses a similaracres) cruof vineyards system to and denote produces the aroundmost exceptional 16% of the wines wine producedin Bourgogne. in the region, with Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru AOCs the jewel in the UNESCOChablis region’s crown when it comes to winemaking. Chablis contains 5,771 ha (14,260 acres) of vineyards and produces around 18% of the wine in Bourgogne.

7 Exogyra virgula

8 Spring frost in Chablis

While Chablis’s cool climate – which features cold winters and hot summers – is intrinsic to its fresh style and terroir, a particular hurdle for winemakers in the region to overcome is the spring frost that has become a characteristic of the region. To overcome this challenge and protect each year’s harvest, winegrowers in the VIKMSR½RH[E]WXSLIEXXLIMVZMRI]EVHWMRXLIWTVMRKXS[EVHE[E]XLIJVSWX¯E practice that started in 1960, and which allowed the region to increase the quality and consistency of its harvests, and therefore of its wine. Today, environmentally friendly heating cables, candles and spraying are the most common way to protect vineyards from the potential damage caused by spring frost. 9 Climats and lieux-dits

The concept of Climats is an intrinsic part of Bourgogne’s The concept of Climats is an intrinsic part of Bourgogne’s – and - and Chablis’s - identity. Climats are best described as ClimatsChablis’sTPSXW SJ – PERH identity. [MXL Climats TVIGMWIP]and are HI½RIHbest describedlieux-dits PMQMXW [MXLas plots XLIMV of land S[R The[MXLTVIGMWIP]HI½RIHPMQMXW[MXLXLIMVS[RYRMUYIKISPSK]unique concept geology of andClimats microclimates. is an intrinsic Climats part exist of withinBourgogne’s Bour- -andgogne’s and microclimates. andChablis’s Chablis’s -Climats identity. AOCs exist Climatsand within areare Bourgogne’s distinctbest describedfrom and Cha-single as The concept of Climats is an intrinsic part of Bourgogne’s – and TPSXWblis’svineyards AOCs SJ PERHand and lieux-dits. [MXL are distinct TVIGMWIP] The from recognition HI½RIH single vineyards PMQMXW of Climats [MXL and XLIMV lieux-dits.has been S[R Chablis’s – identity. Climats are best described as plots of land uniqueTheEVSYRH use geology JSVof Climats GIRXYVMIW and hasmicroclimates. [MXL existed XLI XIVQin theClimats ½VWX region GSMRIH exist since MRwithin the XLI 1500s, WBour- [MXLTVIGMWIP]HI½RIHPMQMXW[MXLXLIMVS[RYRMUYIKISPSK] gogne’sERH[EWQEHISJ½GMEPMRF] and Chablis’s AOCs andXLI-2%3 -RWXMXYX2EXMSREP are distinct from single vineyardsand microclimates. and lieux-dits. Climats The exist recognition within Bourgogne’s of climats andhas Cha-been des Appellations d’Origine). There are thousands of Climats in EVSYRHblis’s AOCs JSV and GIRXYVMIW are distinct [MXL XLIfrom XIVQ single ½VWX vineyards GSMRIH and MR XLIlieux-dits. W Bourgogne, each with their own characteristics, topography The use of Climats has existed in the region since the 1500s, and microclimates, and therefore each with their own unique ERH[EWQEHISJ½GMEPMRF]XLI-2%3 -RWXMXYX2EXMSREP terroir. In Chablis, they exist only within Chablis Premier Cru, des Appellations d’Origine). There are thousands of Climats in which has 40 Climats, and Chablis Grand Cru, which has 7. Bourgogne, each with their own characteristics, topography and microclimates, and therefore each with their own unique A lieu-dit (translated roughly as “named place”), refers to a terroir. In Chablis, they exist only within Chablis Premier Cru, winegrowing plot in Bourgogne that’s known for a particu- which has 40 Climats, and Chablis Grand Cru, which has 7. lar set of topographical characteristics, usually with a tradi- tional name. While wines grown in and named after parti- A lieu-dit (translated roughly as “named place”), refers to a cular lieux-dits could be compared to single-vineyard wines winegrowing plot in Bourgogne that’s known for a particu- made elsewhere in the world, lieux-dits are not necessarily lar set of topographical characteristics, usually with a tradi- single vineyards. For a long time, the terms «Climat» and tional name. While wines grown in and named after parti- «lieu-dit» have been confused by people referring to wine- cular lieux-dits could be compared to single-vineyard wines making in Bourgogne. It is important to note that there is made elsewhere in the world, lieux-dits are not necessarily GVSWWSZIV ]SY QE] ½RH WIZIVEP PMIY\HMXW [MXLMR XLI WEQI single vineyards. For a long time, the terms «Climat» and Climat, or have a Climat covering only part of a lieu-dit. «lieu-dit» have been confused by people referring to winemaking in Bourgogne. It is important to noteUNESCO that there is GVSWWSZIV ]SY QE] ½RH WIZIVEP PMIY\HMXW [MXLMR XLI WEQI TheClimat, Climats or have (winegrowing a Climat covering areas) ofonly Bourgogne part of aare lieu-dit. reco- gnised by the UNESCO Wold Heritage List Bourgogne’s pre- WIRGISRXLIPMWXMWRSXNYWXHS[RXSXLIUYEPMX]SJMXW[MRIWXLMW VIGSKRM^IHMXWYRMUYIXIVVSMVMXWYRMUYIQSHIPERHEVGLIX]TMRK SJXLIHMJJVIRX§XIVVSMVW¨MXWI\GIPPIRX[MRIKVS[MRKTIHMKVII 10 Chablis’s tasting notes

With a climate closer to its neighbour Champagne’s than to the villages of southern Bourgogne, Chablis is known for producing exceptional cool-climate wines. Informed by the region’s unique terroir, winemaking in Chablis results in an expression of Chardonnay that’s characterised by freshness, crispness and vibrant acidity, with zesty notes of lemon and KVETIJVYMXSGGEWMSREPP][LMXITIEGLERHSJXIRKYR¾MRXERH other mineral notes. Generally speaking, wines develop more complexity in the Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru VIKMSRW[MXL¾SVEPERHLSRI]¾EZSYVWETTIEVMRKSGGEWMSREPP] some savoury notes, and longer ageing potential. Across the board, Chablis wines are rarely overripe; rather, they show a delicate balance between richness, sugar and acidity.

11 Minerality

;LMPIXLIGSRGITXSJQMRIVEPMX]GERFIEHMJ½GYPXSRIXSHI- ½RI ERH IZIR VIJIVVIH XS EW E Q]WXIV] MX MW GVYGMEP MR YR- HIVWXERHMRK XLI ¾EZSYV TVS½PI SJ 'LEFPMW [MRIW +IRIVEPP] WTIEOMRKXLMWTVSTIVX]VIJIVWXSEVSQEERH¾EZSYVXLEXMWR´X fruity, spicy or herbaceous – it refers rather to characteristics of the ground or the sea, and is common in wines grown in stony or volcanic soils. Minerality in wine could present itself in GLEPO]SV¾MRX]RSXIW¾EZSYVWSJVMZIVWXSRIWSVS]WXIVWLIPPW or more generally in a saline quality. Chablis’s limestone-heavy soils and climate which place it among the most mineral of Chardonnay wines.

12 1% The AOCs of Chablis 66%

Like most Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée, the AOCs of Chablis are subject to requirements on their production areas, along with the conditions of their production. The maximum yield varies by appellation, as does the minimum amount of sugar required to be able to harvest the grapes. Generally speaking, the higher up the hierarchy from Petit Chablis to Chablis Grand Cru, the more stringent the requirements are, and the higher the quality and price of the wines.

13 The Vineyards of Chablis Petit Chablis AOC

Petit Chablis is a great entry point to Chablis wines, offering great value and wines that, while perhaps not as complex or ½RIP]FEPERGIHEWXLISXLIV%3'WEVIWXMPPI\GIPPIRXMRXLIMV own right. The terroir is a mixture of brown soil and hard limestone, and grapes are mainly grown on plateaus at the top of the slopes. Petit Chablis wines are generally consumed young, ideally after two years, and make a superb aperitif wine.

Percentage of overall production: 19% Growing area: 1,189 ha (2,938 acres) Year of institution: 1944 Serving temperature: 8-10°C Maximum yield: 60 hl/ha

Colour: Brilliant pale gold Nose:;LMXI¾S[IVW QE]EGEGME QM\IH[MXLGMXVYWRSXIW PIQSRKVETIJVYMX SZIVEQMRIVEPFEWI KYR¾MRX 2SXIWSJ TIEGLERHSXLIV[LMXI¾IWLIHJVYMXW Palate: Light, lively with a well-balanced acidity

14 The Vineyards of Chablis Chablis AOC

By far the largest appellation in Chablis, Chablis AOC produced the bulk of the region’s wines with grapes grown on multiple exposition levels including north, east but also west facing slopes including the plateaus. That’s not to say it’s a ty- pical mass-market wine, though: rather, wines from Chablis AOC are diverse, taking part of their character from the spe- GM½GW SJ XLI [MRIQEOMRK TVSGIWW ERH SJ XLI ZMRXEKI 1SVI generally, Chablis AOC wines are known for good structure, TIVWMWXIRX¾EZSYVERHZSPYQISRXLITEPEXI[LMPIEPWSFIMRK better suited than Petit Chablis wines to age, which dee- pens their colour and adds a note of spice to the bouquet.

Percentage of overall production: 66% Growing area: 3,702 ha (9,148 acres) Year of institution: 1938 Serving temperature: 10-11°C Maximum yield: 60hl/ha

Colour: Light pale gold, sometimes green-tinged Nose: :IV] JVIWL PMZIP] ERH QMRIVEP [MXL ¾MRX KVIIR ETTPI PIQSR YRHIVFVYWL ERH WSQIXMQIW ½IPH QYWLVSSQ 2SXIW SJ PMQI¾S[IV QMRX ERH EGEGME SG- cur frequently, as do aromas of liquorice and fresh-cut hay Palate: Fresh, perky and juicy. Good length leads to a smooth ½RMWL

15 The Vineyards of Chablis Premier Cru AOC Chablis

Known by many as an incredibly pure expression of the grape, Chablis 4VIQMIV'VYGSQFMRIWI\GITXMSREPXIVVSMV[MXLTVSHYGIVWSJWMKRM½- cant expertise to create wines that are rich and complex, while still being emblematic of the region. Grapes here tend to be grown on south-west, south and south-east east facing slopes, and while plenty WLS[GLEVEGXIVMWXMG¾MRXMRIWWERHGVMWTRIWWQER]EVIEPWSWQSSXLIV and more fruit-forward. Chablis Premier Cru wines can also be sui- table for ageing from 5-10 years in the bottle. Chablis Premier Cru wines are usually labeled after the particular Climat the grapes are grown in.

Percentage of overall production: 15%14% Year of institution: 1938 Growing area: 778 ha (1,922 acres) Serving temperature: 10-11% Maximum yield: 58hl/ha

Colour: Pale gold Nose: Showing many of the qualities of Chablis AOC, but with more complexity, and often needing some airing to develop Palate: )\GIPPIRXWXVYGXYVIERHEPSRK½RMWLWLS[MRKQMRIVEPMX]ERH tightness when drunk young, but developing delicate and subtle notes with age

16 Climats of Chablis Premier Cru AOC The Vineyards of 'LEFPMW4VIQMIV'VY%3'MWLSQIXSHMWXMRGX'PMQEXWMRGPYHMRKQEMR Chablis areas called Climat porte-drapeau and 23 Climats grouped within them. Climat porte-drapeau Climat

■ Beauregards (Les) ■ Les Beauregards ■ Côte de Cuissy ■ ■ ■ Beauroy Beauroy Troësmes ■ Côte de Savant ■ Berdiot ■ Berdiot ■ Chaume de Talvat ■ Chaume de Talvat ■ Côte de Jouan ■ Côte de Jouan ■ Côte de Léchet ■ Côte de Léchet ■ Côte de Vaubarousse ■ Côte de Vaubarousse ■ Côte de Fontenay ■ Vaulorent ■ L’Homme Mort ■ Vaupulent ■ Fourchaume ■ Fourchaume ■ Les Fourneaux ■ Fourneaux (Les) ■ Morein ■ Côte des Prés Girots ■ Mont de Milieu ■ Mont de Milieu ■ ■ ■ Montée de Tonnerre Montée de Tonnerre Chapelot ■ Côte de Bréchain ■ Pied d’Aloup ■ ■ Butteaux ■ Forêts Montmains ■ Montmains ■ Vaillons ■ Les Lys ■ ■ ■ Vaillons Beugnons Mélinots ■ Châtains ■ Roncières ■ Les Epinottes ■ Sécher ■ Vaucoupin ■ Vaucoupin ■ Vau de Vey ■ Vau de Vey ■ Vaux Ragons ■ Vau de Ligneau ■ Vau de Ligneau ■ Vosgros ■ Vosgros ■ Vaugiraut 17 Chablis Grand Cru AOC TheThe VineyardsVineyards of of

Made with grapesgrapes grown in just 102 hectares of limestone soils across XLIZMPPEKISJ'LEFPMW*]qERHXLILMPPWSJXLIVMZIV7IVIMR´Wacross the villages of Chablis, Fyé and the hills of the riverVMKLXFERO Serein’s ChablisChablis Chablisright bank, Grand Chablis Cru Grand wines couldCru wines be said could to bebe crèmesaid to de be la the crème crème of Chablis’sde la crème wine-producing of Chablis’s wine-producing areas. areas.

Percentage of overall production: 1%Growing area: 102 ha (252 acres) Year of institution: 1938 Serving temperature: 10-11% Maximum yield: 54hl/ha

Colour: TYVIKVIERKSPHIZSPZMRKXSEPMKLX]IPPS[[MXLEKIpure green-gold, evolving to a light yellow with age Nose: MRXIRWIQMRIVEPWGIRXWPMQI¾S[IVWHVMIHJVYMXWEPQSRHERHMRXIRWIQMRIVEPWGIRXWPMQI¾S[IVWHVMIHJVYMXWEPQSRHERH WYFXPILSRI]RSXIWERHSGGEWMSREPP]½IPHQYWLVSSQPMOIWEZSYV] ¾EZSYVW Palate: %TIVJIGXFEPERGIFIX[IIRVMGLRIWWERHEGMHMX]GLEVEGXIVMWXMGA perfect balance between richness and acidity, with characte- HV]UYEPMXMIWFYXZMFVERX¾EZSYVVMWXMGHV]UYEPMXMIWFYXZMFVERX¾EZSYV Color: TYVKVIIRKSPHIZSPZMRKXSEPMKLX]IPPS[[MXLEKIpure green-gold, evolving to a light yellow with age. The Climats of Chablis Grand Cru

• Blanchot • Bougros • Les Clos • Grenouilles • Preuses • Valmur • Vaudésir 18 ,EVZIWXMRKERHZMRM½GEXMSR

'LEFPMW´WVIRS[RIH¾EZSYVMWRSXSRP]HS[RXSMXWXIVVSMV¯MX´WEPWS the result of a heritage of high-quality and conscientious production processes in the region that date back centuries, prioritising respectful environmental stewardship and a healthy respect for the region’s vines. 19 The harvest Like most of France, harvesting in Chablis takes place between September and October, when the grape reaches the perfect level of maturity. Both machine harvesting and picking by hand are used across the region: manual harvesting is common in Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, but Chardonnay reacts well to the use of high-clearance tractors, wich allows for rapid harvesting in mild weather and therefore grapes are picket at the perfect maturity. Harvest season is prime time for tourism in the region: each year, visitors travel from across the grobe to experience the harvest for themselves.

20 :MRM½GEXMSR

:MRM½GEXMSRVIJIVWXSXLIWTIGM½GQIGLERMGEPQMGVSFMSPSKMGEP and biochemical processes used to make a wine from harvested grapes. Although the quality of a wine is inexorably lin- ked to its terroir, it also depends on the quality of the harvest, XLIVYPIWWIXF]MXW%3'JSVMXWTVSHYGXMSRERHXLIZMRM½GEXMSR techniques used.

Upon their arrival in the winery, harvested grapes are taken to the wine press. After pressing, the resulting juice is then placed occasionally into oak barrels, but more commonly into stainless steel vats. From this point, the alcoholic fermentation can begin, which lasts from two to three weeks and which is done at a low temperature (between 15°C and 18°C, or 59°F and 64°F). During this fermentation, the yeast converts the sugar of the grape juice into alcohol, and once this fermentation is complete, it undergoes a further malolactic fermentation: lactic bacteria transform the malic acid present in the wine into lactic acid, reducing the acidity and stabilising the wine.

Once these fermentation processes are over, the matura- tion process begins: this is often done in stainless steel vats, but sometimes in oak barrels (especially in Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru) and rarely in new ones. De- pending on the type of wine produced, the resulting wines GERFIFPIRHIH(YITEVXP]XSXLIMVGVMWT¾EZSYVTVS½PIERH partly to showcase the terroir, ageing in oak is rare in Pe- tit Chablis and Chablis, and tends to depend on the produ- GIV JSV +VERH 'VY )UYEPP] EKIMRK SR ½RI PIIW LETTIRW EW much as possible in order to add complexity to the wine.

21 Sustainability

Like almost all of those industries that rely on the environment and the climate to support it, winemaking in France and across the world is adjusting to a world that’s increasingly concerned with protecting its future with careful stewardship of the environment.

Chablis is no different, and this way of thinking from the cur- rent generation of winemakers has resulted in a dynamic system of new production techniques and accreditation systems. Winemakers across Chablis and Bourgogne are well repre- sented in grassroots and accreditation initiatives that give accreditation based on sustainable practices across the farming and production processes. These include HVE (Haute Valeur )RZMVSRRIQIRXEPI GIVXM½GEXMSR [LMGL MW MR YWI EGVSWW XLI food and farming industries in France and which takes into account biodiversity conservation, plant protection strate- gy, management of fertiliser use and management of water in vineyards and wineries. HVE is rising in popularity with XLI RYQFIV SJ GIVXM½IH ,:) TVSHYGIVW RIEVP] HSYFPMRK MR 2019 from the previous year. 7% of the region’s vineyards FIMRK GIVXM½IH SVKERMG [LMGL IUYEXI XS SJ XLI SVKE- nic viticultural production in the wider Bourgogne region.

22 Hero producers

The strength of Chablis’s winemaking pedigree is found not just in its terroir and climate, but in its passionate, committed and diverse winemaking community. In modern times, this equates to winemakers, many of them young and unafraid to challenge winemaking practices of the past, and many female winemakers are also challenging the status quo by leading operations in some of the region’s best wineries. Here are four distinct winemakers that show the diversity of Chablis’s offering. 23 William Fèvre

One of Chablis’s greatest winemakers, William Fèvre makes between 400,000-500,000 bottles a year and operates 78 hectares of vineyards, including 32 hectares in the Chablis Pre- mier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru appellations. The winemaker also operates as a négociant, buying grapes and must for use in its winery.

More than that, though, Domaine William Fèvre has been WXIEHMP]IRLERGMRKMXWWYWXEMREFPIGVIHIRXMEPW½VWX[MXLWXST- ping the use of herbicides in the early 2000s, converting much of its vineyards to an organic and biodynamic style of farming, ERHXLIREGLMIZMRKIRZMVSRQIRXEPGIVXM½GEXMSRMRGPYHMRKXLI HVE level 3 in the years since. Now, there’s even goat pastu- ring, a conservatory orchard, birdhouses, bat shelters, beehives and more across the winery’s land, making this a bastion of biodiversity as well as an increasingly sustainable operation. “The quality and origin of the grapes are decisive in obtaining a great terroir wine,” says managing director Didier Séguier. “Without great grapes there are no great wines.

±:MRM½GEXMSRQYWXEGGSQTER]XLIXIVVSMVW[MXLSYXHIREXYVMRK them. We must remain as neutral as possible in our interven- tional techniques, while trying to convey a pure expression of Kimmeridgian soil. Alternating periods of oxygenation in old oak barrels and a reduction in stainless steel are key in obtai- RMRKQMRIVEPMX]GSQTPI\MX]½RIWWIERHIPIKERGIMRXLI½RMWLIH wine – the hallmarks of a great Chablis.”

Didier Séguier - Domaine William Fèvre 24 Domaines CourtaultDomaine and Michelet Michelet

%GVSWWMXWX[SHSQEMRIW'SYVXEYPXERH1MGLIPIX(SQEMRIW'SYVXAcross its two domaines, Domaine Michelet makes aroundEYPXIX1M 120,000- GLIPIXQEOIWEVSYRHFSXXPIWE]IEV [LMGLVITVIWIRXWEVbottles a year (which represents around 60% of its total 1600hlSYRH annual SJproduction, MXW XSXEP LP with the ERRYEP rest TVSHYGXMSRbeing sold [MXLto traders). XLI VIWX “From FIMRK year WSPH to XS year, XVEHIVW we §*VSQharvest ]IEV grapes XS ]IEV[Iwith exceptional LEVZIWX KVETIW ripeness,” [MXL I\GITXMSREPsays Michelet. VMTIRIWW “However,¨WE]W 1Mwe- GLIPIXQYWXWYGGIIHMRTVIWIVZMRKXLI'LEFPMWMHIRXMX]:MRM½GEXMSRMR §,S[IZIV [I QYWX WYGGIIH MR TVIWIVZMRK XLI 'LEFPMWWXEMRPIWW MHIRXMX] :MRM½GEXMSRsteel vats with MR WXEMRPIWW alcoholic WXIIP fermentation ZEXW [MXL EPGSLSPMG at low JIVQIRXEXMSR temperatures, EX PS[letting XIQTI ma-- VEXYVIWPSPEGXMGJIVQIRXEXMSRFIKMREPPWYFPMQEXIHF]PSRKEKIMRKSR½ PIXXMRK QEPSPEGXMG JIVQIRXEXMSR FIKMR EPP WYFPMQEXIH F] PSRKRIPIIW EKIMRK SRallow ½RI a beautiful PIIW EPPS[ expression E FIEYXMJYP of I\TVIWWMSR this very particular SJ XLMW ZIV] terroir.” TEVXMGYPEV XIVVSMV¨

Michelet is also passionate about increased sustainability across the winery’s operations. “The goal is to improve our practices in order to reduce inputs by 50% on average over 5 years, and also to contribute to the sharing of knowledge and experience within the DEPHY group, which sees growers and winemakers across the region work together XSWLEVIORS[PIHKIERHXLIVIWYPXWSJXIWXMRKERH½RHGSQQSRWSPY- tions. Our objective is to produce quality wines while preserving our resources and respecting the health of our employees, our terroir and that of our neighbours.”

Coming from a long line of winemakers, there was always a likelihood XLEX7XqTLERMI1MGLIPIX[SYPH½RHLIVWIPJ[SVOMRKMRXLIJEQMP]FY- siness, which has been present in one form or another in Chablis since 1974. But as director of operations, Michelet has to balance preserving the winery’s heritage, bringing it into the present day, and doing both [LMPI½RHMRKLIV[E]EWEJIQEPIFYWMRIWWS[RIVMRERMRHYWXV]WXMPP largely dominated by men. According to Michelet, one quality above all others is crucial as a female winemaker in Chablis: perseverance. “As a woman in this environment of men, you have to believe in yourself and in your project,” she says. “It is not always easy to make your place and to be listened to – and above all you have to prove more than a man what you are capable of. But what makes me happy in the Chablis region is that there are more and more young women who are taking the helm of family estates.” Stéphanie and Vincent Michelet 25 Stéphanie et Vincent Michelet - Domaine Vincent Michelet La Chablisienne

As the largest single producer in the region and also Cha- blis’s only co-operative, La Chablisienne produces 6m bottles annually across the Chablis’s four AOCs. Ambassador Her- vé Tucki explains its approach as a “global attitude towards ZMRM½GEXMSRWHIWMKRIH XS WLS[ XLI HMJJIVIRGIW KMZIR F] XLI different terroirs of Chablis to the wines. There are also many particularities to our approach that allow us to highlight the YRMUYIGLEVEGXIVSJ'LEFPMW[MRIWPSRKEKIMRKSR½RIPIIW without batonnage, and bottling between 12-24 months after the harvest, which is quite remarkable compared to the average Chablis winemaking tradition.”

Although the winemaking may be done on a huge scale, it’s far from a faceless and heavily industrialised process; rather, the winemaking teams have to be adaptable and show a deft XSYGL[LIRXVERWPEXMRKIEGLZMRXEKIMRXS½RMWLIH[MRIW±7MRGI winemaking is not an exact science, there are adaptations we have to make «at the margin» depending on the quality of the vintage, yields, climatic conditions of the harvest, size of the cuvées and even things like the organisation of the fermenting room,” Tucki says. “With each vintage we always start from a blank sheet, and we don’t stick to ‘recipes’, but we keep in mind our memories of all the previous vintages to inform the most recent one.

Vinent Bartement and Christophe Race - La Chablisienne 26 Domaine des Hâtes

Domaine des Hâtes is a great example of growers’ ability to take control of their own destiny in Chablis. “We decided to leave the cooperative cellar during my installation in 2009 in order to vinify our own wines,” says winemaker Pierrick Laroche. “The goal was to be able to TVIWIRXE½RMWLIHERHEGGSQTPMWLIHTVSHYGX2S[MXMWETPIEWYVIXS be a winegrower but to also see the winemaking process through to the end. The vines are the most important part of our trade, but it is the cellar work which allows us to have the satisfaction of presenting to our customers the fruit of our trade.”

2S[EJYPP]¾IHKIH[MRIQEOMRKSTIVEXMSR(SQEMRIHIW,lXIWSTI- rates 28ha of vineyards and produces 100,000 bottles per year, with XLIVIWXSJXLIZSPYQIZMRM½IHERHWSPHMRFYPOJSVXVEHMRK±'LEFPMW are wines that age admirably well,” says Laroche, “but for that, I am convinced that you have to be patient with them. A little interventionist winemaking and rather long ageing of up to 18 months are essential for me, so that the terroir has time to impose itself beyond the vintage effect.”

Pierrick Laroche - Domaine des Hâtes 27 The history of Chablis

Traces of a Neolithic village in this corner of Bourgogne, as well as the remains of a Gaul-era farm where vines were present, can point to centuries of winemaking history in Chablis in addition to its many millennia of human history. The name Chablis is believed to stem from two Celtic words: cab, meaning “house”, and leya, meaning “near the woods”.

Important landmarks like the Collégiale Saint Martin, the church of Saint Peter, the Hôtel Dieu, the Priory of Saint Cosme, the Petit Pontigny and the Petite Arche du Pont date back to the 12th and 13th centuries, and in 1478 Pierre Lerouge established France’s 5th printing works in Chablis, kick-starting a period of growth in the region. By 1537, Chablis counted 4,000 inhabitants, and its wines enjoyed a strong re- putation all over France. The impact of the church, the Monks of Saint Martin of Tours and the monks of the Abbey of Pon- tigny – as well as the region’s proximity to Paris – were also hugely important in developing the viticultural history of the Chablis.

Pontigny Abbey 28 The history of Chablis

Chablis also bears a history of resilience. The Yonne region was one of the largest winegrowing regions in the world before the phylloxera crisis, and survived both this and persistent mildew at the end of the 19th century, which was exacerbated by the loss of over a hundred young men during the First World War. To combat this loss, Chablis’s winegrowing used a “Bordeaux mixture” to combat mildew, as well as a process that involved grafting the Chardonnay seedlings (known as Beaunois) onto American rootstocks, which were resistant to this phylloxera.

After the German bombing on June 15th 1940, which des- XVS]IHLSYWIWMRXLIXS[RGIRXVIXLI½VWX[MRIJIWXMZEPMR 1949 marked Chablis’s renaissance. From then on, a period of sustained prosperity began with the advent of mechanisation in 1955, and heating of the vines after the big spring frost in 1957, which destroyed around 500ha of the grapes during this period. This led to an exceptional vintage in 1970, which IREFPIH'LEFPMWXSVIWXSVIMXWVITYXEXMSREWSRISJXLI½RIWX winemaking regions in the world.

Obédiencerie of Chablis 29 Travel and tourism

Like many of Europe’s top destinations for winemaking, Cha- blis combines beautiful landscapes, historic landmarks, great restaurants and hotels and friendly communities, making it a popular tourist destination year-round, and especially so in the warmer months and during harvest season. Visitors can take in tastings and tours at wineries across the region, peruse the area’s historic and picturesque villages, take in centuries-old churches and monuments, and stay in beautiful hotels, many of which have been converted from historic monasteries and other buildings to become a living relic of the region’s heritage.

Tourists can also take advantage of the 260km Yonne Wine Road, which takes visitors through picturesque villages and must-see tourist and cultural sites in Chablis and Bourgogne, combining charm, gastronomy and the chance to meet passionate and friendly winegrowers and producers.

30 The Fête des Vins de Chablis

Every year since 1949, the fourth weekend of October has seen visitors from across France and around the world come together for the Fête des Vins de Chablis, or Chablis Wine Festi- val. The festival celebrates the wines and winemakers of Chablis and is timed to coincide with the arrival of the new vintage. It brings wine lovers, professionals, connoisseurs, keen amateurs and total newcomers to the world of wine, with a wide range of events on offer, from tours and tastings at more than 40 producers, stands run by local food producers, vineyard walks, activities for children and, more recently, a Chablis Marathon.

31 Vignobles & Découvertes

The label Vignobles & Découvertes was created in 2009 to promote wine tourism in France. Attributed for a period of three years to a winegrowing area, it highlights tourism and wine-related destinations that offer a full range of quality services, which includes accommodation, restaurants, cellar visits and events that help tourists plan trips more easily. 8LI'LEFPMW[MRIKVS[MRKVIKMSRLEWIRNS]IHXLMWGPEWWM½GEXMSRWMRGI 32 Bourgogne Wine Board

Created in 1989, the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) exists to be the voice of Bourgogne’s wine producers and merchants, bringing together all of the winegrowers, cooperative members and traders of the region with the aim of promoting Bourgogne wines in France and abroad, and enhancing what makes Bourgogne so unique: its terroir and its winemakers.

The organisation is managed by elected representatives, and covers all of the Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée of Bourgogne. The headquarters of the BIVB EVIPSGEXIHMR&IEYRI[MXLX[SSXLIVSJ½GIWMR1lGSRERH'LEFPMW

Chablis wines website

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