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Home , Chablis wine, Fermentation lock, Lees (fermentation), Malolactic fermentation, Racking

Brehm ’ Grape Guide v1.1

Copyright © 2011 by Peter Brehm. Not to be reprinted in any form.

There Introduction are many ways to produce these styles of wine. Your Chardonnay Guide is for 20 liters of The methods described herein are personal, pressed and settled Chardonnay grape juice based on classic techniques that from one of three different . The have been proven over decades. It is the way Chardonnay juices are from the White Peter Brehm, our , wishes to guide Salmon in the Pacific Northwest’s you through this production of fine wine - it is Columbia Gorge AVA. Each of these not the only way – Peter is still learning. juices will benefit from adjustment. Grape Juice Chardonnay not only reflects the geographical Grape juice fermentation refers to the region and particular site where grown, it is a conversion of grape juice into wine by the canvas upon which the can freely actions of reproduction. Brehm express their style and preferences. A Vineyards® provides you with your Chardonnay in the style is crisp, winemaking starting point and that is White fermented dry without malolactic Salmon Vineyard’s Chardonnay juice. fermentation. It is fresh and clean with little to no flavoring. A style chardonnay Yeast are single celled organisms that, under usually is fermented in the presence of oak, anaerobic conditions (-free aged on the with much lees stirring environments), can use sugar as a carbon (batonnage). Chardonnay in the Burgundy source to grow and divide. As the yeast style is a rich, fat, complicated wine. reproduces, sugar is converted into . This process is known as alcoholic This winemaking experience will impart two fermentation. In winemaking, alcoholic different styles on these white grape juices. All fermentation by yeast is also known as the of these Chardonnay juices will allow you to Primary Fermentation or Sugar explore these styles and help you find ‘your’ Fermentation. individual winemaking preference. Within the grape juice, as the yeast multiply, If you follow these instructions and monitor the sugar is converted by the yeast into your winemaking progress in the included pyruvate. Through an enzymatic reaction, the Chardonnay Grape Log, you will produce 2+ pyruvate is converted to acetylaldehyde, cases of refined, premium chardonnay. We releasing (CO2). The will guide you through the production of 5 acetylaldehyde, through another enzymatic gallons of a Chablis style chardonnay or 5 reaction, is converted to (ethyl gallons of Burgundy style chardonnay. It is up alcohol) as a by-product. to you to choose your future style.

The ’ production of ethanol is a natural

part of their life cycle. It is not the primary

goal of the yeast to produce ethanol, but to and sterile prior to taking receipt of their produce energy carrying molecules to be used juice. This should be your goal as well. in other biological reactions by the yeast. It is the winemakers’ goal that yeast consumes the Read through this comprehensive guide and sugar in the grapes and excretes alcohol. the included Chardonnay Log so you will be prepared to make wine once you receive your Yeast is available in many varietes. juice. After receiving your juice, for Winemakers strive to use yeast that match approximately two weeks you are tending to their future wine’s desired style, alcohol the fermenting juice daily. This is not for a content, age, related enzymatic activity and long period of time, but daily. A few hints to fermentation characteristics (fast, slow, low, prepare yourself for this endeavor: foam, etc). The presence of alcohol in higher concentrations will actually impede yeast - Make sure that you read through and growth and may eventually kill yeast. understand this Chardonnay Grape Guide before you notify your supplier (or Brehm Brehm Vineyards recommends Lalvin’s Vineyards) to ship you the juice. CY3079 or DV10 winemaking yeast, though there are others that will work well for use - Read and familiarize yourself with the Chardonnay Log. with our Chardonnay Guide.

In most cases, the sugar content of the grapes - Purchase and receive the necessary winemaking equipment. in conjunction with the use of proper winemaking yeast will eventually convert all of - Read and understand all the instructions that the sugar in the grape juice into alcohol. come with your equipment as well as reading Grape juice that is 23.5% sugar (or 23.5° the recommended book. / balling) will produce a wine of approximately 14% alcohol. - Familiarize yourself with the other books and articles posted at Brehm Vineyards’ web Fermentation at a cool temperature in a site. closed fermentor does not allow as much evaporation of alcohol as within an open, - It is also recommended that you read the warm fermentor. books listed in the Chardonnay Log as usually produce higher alcohol per given sugar Optional Equipment. concentration than red fermentations. Where To Ferment Your Juice Winemaking yeasts are usually not affected by The location you choose to ferment your alcohol in the fermenting juice if there is an grapes should be cool, 55°F /13°C, dry and adequate amount of nutrient sources until the free of any airborne contaminates. Anything concentration of the alcohol reaches 15+%; that falls into your juice can impart off flavors some are happy at 17%. or cause other problems with the wine. A wash down floor is a real plus. Make sure to keep Winemaker Preparation your winemaking environment as clean as A good winemaker is ready for anything. possible. Their equipment and fermentors are clean 2

Sterilize Equipment should be drained from equipment, it is not Before, as well as during the primary sugar necessary to rinse before exposure to juice or fermentation, other biological organisms such wine. as fungi, bacteria, and naturally occurring wild yeast can, and will, contaminate your wine and If you are not using your equipment compete with your selected winemaking yeast immediately, place it or hang it so it drains and drys. Once the carboys are thoroughly for critical nutrients. These biological infections can cause incomplete sugar dry, you can simply cover the mouth of your fermentation, the creation of off flavors in the with some plastic wrap. Use a rubber band to secure the seal. Store until needed. wine, as well as a host of other winemaking misfortunes. Therefore, it is very important that your winemaking equipment be as sterile Receiving Your Juice as possible before you begin to ferment. It has been our experience over the years that about one out of three pails of frozen grapes First your equipment must be clean, then you will slightly implode during the defrosting should sterilize it. Most cleaning chemicals are cycle causing the pail to appear dented. There basic, have a high pH. Once cleaned it is is nothing wrong with the pail or the juice, it is advisable to rinse the surfaces to contact the the natural consequence of the ice thawing. juice/wine with a dilute citric (acidic) However, you should not leave these pails solution to neutralize the cleaner’s base. Only upside down. then are your prepared to sterilize. Swollen pails, pails venting CO2, leaking pails Tradition in home winemaking has indicated (probably not usable), and any other serious that SO2 (potassium metabisulphite) will conditions as a result of the shipment of the sterilize equipment. This is inaccurate. SO2 grapes should be received from the transport added directly to the wine does inhibit agent “with exception” to the specific bacterial infections and does inhibit condition. You should write a detailed oxidation, but it does not sterilize. Heat, description of the condition and have the iodine and phosphoric acid will sterilize, but driver, or agent write their name, date, and will not clean. Taking a tip from making recognition of the condition on the bill of folks, a 50% food grade phosphoric acid lading or air waybill BEFORE you leave with based chemical is recommended. Star San the pails. Please notify supplier, or Brehm formulated by Five Star is what is Vineyards immediately of the problem. recommended here. Star San should not be used on wood or porous material. How to Thaw Your Juice Depending on the method used to ship you One ounce of Star San added to 5 gallons of your Chardonnay juice, you will need to let creates a sterilizing solution. Brief the pail(s) of grape juice thaw for 1-4 days. It exposure by immersion or course (large is important that you thaw your juice in an droplet) spray will sterilize your equipment. environment at constant temperature. You goal is to thaw the juice quickly and evenly. Clean and sterilize everything that the wine Room temperature, 70°F / 21°C, is ideal for will be in contact with. While all sterilizer thawing, but the ambient temperature for 3

white grape juice fermentation should be sure to scrape the bottom of the pail while cooler, around 55 °F /13 °C. stirring. There is a layer of cream of tarter and sugar that settles at the bottom of the pail. Under no circumstances should you let your You want to mix this in completely with the juice thaw slowly in a refrigerated rest of the juice. environment. If you let the juice thaw out slowly, you greatly increase your chance of The temperature of the juice might still be allowing bacteria, fungi or mold from taking cold. If there is still ice floating in the juice, hold and contaminating your grape juice. this means you have about one more day until Once you add your yeast and the primary you can add your yeast. Stirring the grape sugar fermentation begins, the bubbling CO2 juice will speed the thawing process. Try not released as a by-product of the sugar to alcohol to froth the juice or add excess air while fermentation acts as a natural barrier against stirring. bacteria, fungi or molds. Take advantage of this CO2 barrier by keeping the fermenting Chardonnay: juice always sealed with an airlock when in Chablis and/or Burgundy carboys. Once your pails of juice are completely thawed and mixed, we will guide you through When you receive your pails of juice, to two winemaking methods that produce two determine the degree of thawing, take one of distinct styles of chardonnay. The Chablis the pails by the handle and twist the pail in method will produce a crisp, clean chardonnay your hand. If you can hear and feel the juice with delicate fruit flavors. The Burgundy sloshing around inside, they are well on their method will produce a full-bodied, rich, oak way to being thawed. If you don’t hear flavored chardonnay. anything, then the juice is still frozen solid Use the following directions to prepare your inside. juice for fermentation. During the first day or two after you receive If you obtain 2 pails of Chardonnay, besides the juice, leave the lids on the pails. Flip the being a good idea, you can make two styles at pails on their top in the morning, back on the same time. Mark one 5-gallon carboy and their bottom when you get home, and then one 3-liter jug ‘CHABLIS’ and mark another turn them again on their top when you go to 5-gallon carboy and 3-liter jug ‘BURGUNDY’. bed. The turning of the pails helps to mix the juice inside as well as speed the thawing Prepare Juice For Fermentation process. Make sure that you have thoroughly mixed the Each pail in Brehm Vineyards’ juice is 20 liters juice in each pail. As you stir, be sure to of whole bunch pressed, settled white grape scrape the bottom of the pails as to put back juice contained in a 6-gallon pail. There is into the juice solution any cream of tartar and roughly one gallon of air space above the juice. sugar that has precipitated to the bottom of After a day or so of turning the pails over, go the pail. ahead and take the lids off the pails. Use Once thoroughly mixed in the pail(s), siphon stainless steel / food grade plastic spoon or into a carboy. If you notice any airspace above your tube to stir your grape juice. Be 4

the juice in either carboy, use distilled water however, the winemaking for the Chablis and to top the juice up to the neck. Burgundy style diverge after the sugar fermentation is complete. To avoid juice loss from foaming during fermentation, we will use a 3-liter jug for our Measure Temperature: yeast starter and then to ferment a portion of As with fermenting black grape must, the juice from the carboy. The degree to temperature is very important for fermenting which a juice will foam during fermentation is white grape juice. In general, you want to dependant on the activity of the yeast used, ferment your white grape juice between 50- temperature and the rate of fermentation. 55°F / 10-13°C until the juice reaches about 7-10° brix. Once the juice reaches that brix Once the alcohol percentage in the wine level, you want to raise the temperature of the increases, the surface tension in the juice / juice to about 65°F / 18.3 °C to complete the wine decreases and foaming will not be a fermentation. problem. At that point, you will add the fermenting juice from the jug back into their Chardonnay juice fermentation tends to get appropriate carboy to finish the sugar stuck as the sugar level decreases. The slight fermentation. increase in temperature will aid the yeast in finishing the sugar fermentation. As an educational aside: The freezing and thawing of juice (to a lesser If you have access to a spare refrigerator, this degree in the crushed grapes than juice) can be an ideal place to ferment your grape efficiently separates and concentrates the juice. A cool spot in your garage can also be a principal components of the grapes. You may good place to ferment your juice. recall that ice burgs are made of ice without salt. As water freezes, sugars and are Record the Temperature in your Chardonnay concentrated by density. Grape’s principal acid is Log. ‘tartaric’, which decreases in solubility with a decrease in temperature and/or an increase in Yeast are able to ferment grape juice at low alcohol, producing cream of tarter. You can temperatures, albeit inefficiently. The natural adjust the amount of sugar by separating the yeast present on the grapes at the time of frozen from the unfrozen. You can decrease the will be greatly diminished by freezing. acidity by racking off the cream of tarter. This is The survivors will start to multiply once the not recommended here. juice is thawed. The initial goal is to get the juice to 50-55°F / 10-13°C and maintain this Chablis and/or Burgundy: temperature until the sugar level falls to about Take Initial Measurements 7-10° brix. Now that your juice has thawed it is time to take your first analysis of the wine. This is the Measure Sugar: starting point for the fermentation of your Degrees Brix or Degrees Balling are identical Chablis and/or Burgundy style you will units for measuring the percentage of sugar in make. The fermentation of both Chablis or your grape must. Specific Gravity is another Burgundy carboys will be quite similar, method for measuring sugar concentration in 5

your must. Please review the Brix / Balling / placing the carboys in a warmer part of your Specific Gravity Chart in your house. ChardonnayLog. Degrees Brix and Balling It is important that you monitor the will be used interchangeably throughout this temperature and the degrees brix in both your guide. Chablis and/or Burgundy carboys once you have started their fermentation. To measure your brix starting point, take a sugar sample of the juice from each carboy If you do both styles simultaneously, you must separately and fill your hydrometer container. treat these carboys separately and equally With the juice about one inch below the top of when testing the temperature and degrees brix the jar, slowly insert the Hydrometer. Take in each carboy. Because you are using two the reading from the bottom of the meniscus distinct styles of winemaking, you must be between the hydrometer and the jar. careful not to cross-contaminate the juice or resulting wines. After testing one wine, be Record the degrees brix for the juice in your sure to clean & sterilize your instruments Chardonnay Log. The temperature of the thoroughly before testing the other wine. juice has an effect on the hydrometer reading, as does the alcohol content of the wine. These The guide for Chablis Fermentation begins conditions are minor for our purposes. below. The guide for Burgundy Fermentation begins later. Record the Initial Degrees Brix of the Chardonnay record it in your Chardonnay CHABLIS FERMENTATION Log. Chablis: Add Lysozyme Monitoring the degrees brix is your We recommend the addition of 0.32 ounces fermentation speedometer. It will show you (9 grams) of lysozyme. This is enough to add where you are in the race to total conversion 500 parts per million of lysozyme to 5-gallons of sugar to alcohol. The race starts with a slow of juice. Take a cup of juice from the carboy rate of sugar consumed per hour. A cold and dissolve the lysozyme in it. Add the environment slows down the initial stages of dissolved lysozyme to your Chablis carboy. fermentation, as well as its continuing rate of WARNING: Lysozyme is an enzyme isolated sugar conversion. from egg whites. If you are allergic to egg After 8° brix, the alcohol content in the whites, DO NOT add the lysozyme. We fermenting juice will begin to be toxic to the recommend that if you are allergic to egg yeast. The combination of the increasing whites that you only make Chardonnay juice alcohol concentration and the diminishing in the Burgundy style. nutrients in the fermenting juice will cause the When used in winemaking, lysozyme can fermentation rate to dramatically decrease. To postpone or prevent . help the yeast finish the sugar fermentation, Lysozyme’s basic action is to poke holes in raise the temperature of the juice to about bacterial cell walls causing the bacteria to 65°F / 18.3 °C. This may be as simple as lyse, or basically pop due to an influx of taking your carboys out of the refrigerator or liquid into the bacteria. This level of

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lysozyme will inhibit a malolactic Make a Yeast Starter fermentation and preserve the crisp acidity A 3 liter jug will serve as your Yeast Starter. and delicate fruit flavors in your Chablis Initially, a vigorously fermenting white grape style chardonnay. juice will produce a lot of foam. It is quite difficult to ferment 5-gallons of white grape BURGUNDY FERMENTATION juice in a 5-gallon carboy without the juice Burgundy: bubbling out of the airlock due to foaming. Add Oak Cubes and Ideally, you would conduct your primary We recommend addition of 1-1/2 ounces of fermentation in a 6-1/2 gallon carboy and near medium-toasted, French oak cubes to your end of fermentation transfer the wine to a 5- carboy. You will use these cubes to add oak gallon carboy. complexity to your . This will While the white grape juice is actively mimic barrel fermentation fermenting, the airspace above the juice is After sugar fermentation, you will induce a filled with carbon dioxide. This CO2 layer malolactic fermentation in your Burgundy prevents oxidation. Once the juice is fully style chardonnay. The malolactic fermented and you open the carboy, the CO2 fermentation will cause the overall acidity of will seep out. At this point, it is necessary to the wine to decrease. To compensate for this minimize the wines contact with air. This is loss in acid, the addition of tartaric acid when you make sure that the wine in your 5- specified in your Log should be added at this gallon carboy is filled up to the neck, time. minimizing the surface area of the wine.

The increased acidity will help maintain the For your Chardonnay, you will ferment most balance in the wine. of the juice in the carboy and a portion of it in a jug. Tartaric acid addition is common to lower the The yeast recommended for your Chardonnay pH in wines and to increase their acidity. In wine has been freeze-dried. You can simply North America, Total Acidity is measured in sprinkle the freeze-dried yeast into your juice grams of tartaric acid per 100 ml. In , and fermentation will eventually begin. This is Total Acidity is measured in units of sulfuric a quick and dirty method and not very acid per a given volume. efficient.

1 gram of tartaric acid per liter of juice/wine A better way to add the yeast to your juice is will raise the acidity 0.1%. to first create a Yeast Starter. The starter is a way to wake up the yeast and build up a large, For more information on Total Acidity and active population of healthy yeast. Adding a pH, see Chablis and Burgundy: Total good starter to your juice will more efficiently, Acidity and pH. and quickly, ferment the sugar in the juice. ______Since the yeast is freeze-dried, it must first be Chablis and/or Burgundy re-hydrated before the yeast can be used. Take 1 cup of water at 100°F / 38°C and add the 7

yeast to it. Do not mix the yeast into the water, the delicate fruit flavors. Warmer simply pour the yeast over the water and let it fermentations tend to lose their fruit flavor sit for 20 minutes. Be sure to use a large bowl and often can result in a bland flavor in the to hydrate the yeast because the yeast will wine. To accomplish this, folks usually foam. ferment their juice in the winter/spring when the ambient temperatures in their garages or Add the re-hydrated yeast to the 3 liter starter basements are cool. If you live in Phoenix, jug(s). Add juice from the carboy to the yeast. Arizona, it may be hard to keep the Fill the jug half way. Put on an air lock. Set the temperature of your juice cool in September. jug(s) in a dry, warm spot in your kitchen to get the yeast started fermenting. Within an A spare refrigerator is an ideal place to hour you should start seeing activity. Add ferment white juice. You can keep the more juice to jug, no higher than its shoulder. temperature constant, and when the sugar Add air lock. Once you have an active level of the juice reaches about 7-10° Brix, you fermenting jug, add it ALL back into the can easily raise the temperature of the carboy. Then take back enough of the refrigerator to help finish the sugar inoculated juice back into the jug to fill it to fermentation. its shoulder. Within 2-6 hours you will be making wine. Make sure the foam does not If you find your juice getting too warm, above exit the containers, draw off a bit into another 65°F / 18.3°C, you need to cool it down. Place bottle if necessary. Use airlocks to seal the jug towels tightly around fermentor with their and carboy. ends in a cool water bath. Direct a fan at the Add The Yeast Starter wet towels so it creates an evaporative cooling Once your grape juice has reached at least affect on the fermentor. You can also pack ice around the carboys to cool them down. 45°F / 7.2°C, and you have a bubbling, active Yeast Starter prepared, it is time to begin the Add Yeast Nutrient To Juice sugar fermentation. A yeast nutrient is to be purchased as part of

Before you add the Yeast Starter, make sure the Essential Equipment for your winemaking. you have record the following in your The yeast nutrient gives your growing yeast Chardonnay Log: vitamins and minerals to keep them healthy while fermenting your grape must. - Temperature of the juice For each 5-gallons of juice, you will use about - Degrees brix of the juice one rounded tablespoon of the yeast nutrient; this is roughly 15 grams. Follow the directions It is also a good time to record any sensory provided with your yeast nutrient and add 1/2 perceptions you have about the grape juice the appropriate amount once the wine begins including and smell. to ferment. Add the second half at about 15° brix, no later than 12°brix. Keep Juice at Proper Temperature White grape juice should be fermented at a Measuring progress of the yeast cool temperature, about 55°F / 13°C. Fermenting at a cool temperature preserves 8

Record the degrees brix or balling of the wine juice at least once a day. You will be able to Residual Sugar Testing track the progress of the yeast. As the If, using your hydrometer, the wine measures fermentation progresses, there will be less and less than 0° on the brix / balling scale, this less sugar available. The degrees brix will get does not mean that the sugar fermentation is lower each day. Try to take the measurement complete. Residual sugar may remain. at the same time each day. This way, you can chart sugar consumption as actual data points. A hydrometer is simply not accurate enough to measure the small amount of sugar left in Once the vigorous bubbling from the wine. Wine is not considered ‘stable’ until fermentation subsides in the carboy, go ahead it is 0.2% or less residual sugar. There is not a and add the fermenting juice from the 3 liter risk of sugar-related bacterial degradation or jug into the carboy. the wine starting to re-ferment at 0.2% or less.

Once all signs of CO2 production have When the juice reaches 7-10° brix, move the stopped, use the Dextro-Check Kit to perform carboy to a warmer location so the the Residual Sugar test. Use a 10-drop (0.5 ml) temperature of the juice can rise to about sample of the wine to determine how much 65°F / 18.3°C. This increase in temperature residual sugar is remaining in the wine. will help the yeast finish the primary sugar fermentation. Record the percentage of Residual Sugar in

Know Your Wine your Chardonnay Log. If the residual sugar measures above 0.2%, It is essential that you become one with your keep your wine warm at about 70°F / 21.1°C wine throughout the winemaking process. until you measure the residual sugar at 0.2% Even though the wine can’t talk, it will be able or less. to communicate with you in many ways.

- Smell your wine. From start to finish, you Chablis: must smell your wine. Fruit and alcohol and Send a sample to a wine lab other natural grape and wine smells will be Once your residual sugar test shows your apparent. has 0.2% residual sugar or less, an accurate measurement of the wine’s pH is Also apparent is the presence of Hydrogen necessary. Act promptly – time is important. Sulfide (H2S). H2S smells like rotten eggs or sulfur and can be perceived at the level of a Send a sample of the Chablis wine to a wine- few molecules per million. By smelling your testing laboratory for pH test. The pH of the wine, you can take action early to prevent wine is important in determining how much problems later. SO2 to add to protect the wine from oxidation. - Taste your wine. As the juice ferments, you will be able to notice that the sweet taste of the For more information on Total Acidity and sugar will subside as the fermentation pH, see Chablis and Burgundy: Total Acidity progresses. Tasting your wine is a critical way and pH. to monitor the health of the wine as it ages. 9

Many laboratories have specific procedures for receiving samples of either the Batonnage and malolactic fermentation will be happening concurrently unfermented juice, or the finished wine. It is advisable to contact the laboratory before Burgundy: sending them a sample so that you follow the Induce Malolactic Fermentation proper procedures and that you send the Malolactic Fermentation is also known as the correct volume of wine for the tests you will secondary fermentation in winemaking. It is have performed. considered fermentation because CO2 is released in the chemical process. Please see the list of recommended testing bacteria use the in the wine as an laboratories at the end of your Chardonnay energy source converting the malic acid into Log. lactic acid and CO2. Lactic acid is perceived to be softer and milder when compared to Chablis: malic acid in tasting wine. Initial SO2 addition Based on the results of the pH of the wine The malolactic cultures are often packaged for from your Chablis carboy, immediately add 60-gallons of wine. If the residual sugar of the the appropriate amount of SO2 and move the wine is less than 0.3% and the wine carboy back to a cool location 55°- 65°F / temperature is about 70°F / 18°C, add 1/8 of 12.8°-18.3°C. the 60 gallon package of the malolactic To determine the amount of SO2 to add, powder into your carboy. Put the air locks please see the Chablis and Burgundy: pH & back on your carboy. Save the remaining SO2 Additions. bacteria in the packet for future wines. Store, well sealed, in the freezer. (Will be good for Also, now that your Chablis carboy has finished the about 1 year.) sugar fermentation, you will begin batonnage, or stirring of the lees. Please see Chablis and Within a day or so of adding the malolactic Burgundy: Batonnage - Stirring the Lees. bacteria, the malolactic fermentation will begin. Take a look at the bubbles forming Burgundy: along the edges of the carboy. The CO2 After Sugar Fermentation bubbles formed during sugar fermentation Once the sugar fermentation is complete, and tend to be larger than the pinpoint sized residual sugar testing shows 0.3% residual malolactic fermentation CO2 bubbles. sugar or less, add the malolactic bacteria. Store the wine at 70°F / 21.1°C. Please see This ‘secondary’ fermentation is as natural as Burgundy: Induce Malolactic Fermentation gray hair. You should be aware that it is a below. natural occurrence in the life of wine. It is not an event you have the option to ignore (why Also, now that your Burgundy carboy has we added lysozyme to prevent a malolatic finished the sugar fermentation, you will begin fermentation in a Chablis style wine). Once Batonnage, or stirring of the lees. Please see the wine reaches about 70°F / 21°C, Chablis and Burgundy: Batonnage - Stirring malolactic fermentation is almost spontaneous the Lees. 10

in the wine due to naturally occurring lactic Do not stir your carboy for two days, allowing acid bacteria. the lees to settle to the bottom of the carboy. Malolactic fermentation can be inhibited by Take your wine sample near the top of the temperature, SO2, alcohol content of the wine, carboy. Be sure to top up the carboy with clarity of the wine, isolation from the distilled water after taking your sample. malolactic bugs (filtration), or by the addition of Lysozyme. Contact your testing laboratory before sending them the sample. You will want to NOTE: The malolactic fermentation in your have them test for Malic Acid Conversion by Burgundy carboy may take weeks to months to an enzymatic method. This will tell you if your complete, so it is important that you are able malolactic fermentation is complete. If they to see the tiny bubbles that form during this confirm that the malolactic fermentation is secondary fermentation. complete, have them also test the pH of the wine. As you continue the batonnage with your Burgundy carboy, you may notice that these Please see the list Recommend Testing bubbles have stopped forming. This may be Laboratories in the Log. This list is an indication that the malolactic fermentation incomplete. If you are aware of other is complete. At this point, it is important that competent labs, please advise Brehm you verify this by sending a sample to a wine- Vineyards®. testing laboratory. Burgundy: Burgundy: Initial SO2 addition Send a sample to a wine lab Upon receiving notification your wine has With no pressure in your fermentation lock completed malolactic fermentation and based and no sign of bubbles in the wine, you think on the results of the pH from your carboy, that the malolactic fermentation is complete. immediately add the appropriate amount of Make sure that the wine has had 6 full weeks SO2 and move the carboy back to a cool of being at 70°F / 21°C (after malolactic location (55°- 65°F / 12.8° - 18.3°C). bacteria addition) before you send off a To determine the amount of SO2 to add, sample for testing. Remember that malolactic please see the Chablis and Burgundy: pH & fermentation can take weeks to months to SO2 Additions. finish.

Paper chromatography is a test used by Finishing Batonnage winemakers to gauge the beginning and Your Burgundy carboy has now finished both progression of malolactic fermentaion. This is its primary sugar fermentation and its a test you can perform. Unfortunately it does secondary malolactic fermentation. You have not have the ability to detect very small protected the wine by adding the first dose of residual amounts of malic acid that an SO2 to the wine. Now you will simply finish enzymatic test can detect. the batonnage by stirring the lees for at least 2 months total.

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The following sections of the Chardonnay means that the wine is made less tannic by Guide pertain to both your Chablis and aging on the lees. Burgundy wines. Another benefit from batonnage is wine aged on the lees are less susceptible to turning pink due to oxidation. If you have ever made a white wine and had it oxidize on you, you will Chablis and Burgundy: have noticed that the color of the wine took on Batonnage - Stirring the Lees a grayish-pink hue. This is due to oxidation of Once the primary sugar fermentation has the wine. Batonnage adds complication to the finished in both your Chablis and/or Burgundy flavor of the wine as well as playing a role in carboys, for the next 8 weeks, you will be the final color of the wine. performing Batonnage on your wine. It is very important that each time you stir the

Batonnage is the act of stirring the dead yeast lees that you smell your wine. Hydrogen cells, or the lees, back into solution in your Sulfide can readily form in the lees even if the wine. The lees are sediment at the bottom of wine is properly sulifited. The Chablis wine your carboy. Once a week for two months, has had sulfite added to it earlier, and this you will stir the lees up into the wine. Be should assist in protecting the wine during careful not to introduce air to the wine. This is batonnage. especially important when stirring the In a Burgundy wine where SO2 has not been Burgundy carboy before SO2 addition. Be added yet, but because the wine is actively diligent to sterilize your stirring tool (and undergoing malolactic fermentation, the CO2 whatever enters the wine) between exposures bubbles that form assist in purging the wine of to carboys or barrels, and after! Hydrogen Sulfide (H2S) and oxygen. The wine

Stirring the lees has been a technique long may take on a peculiar odor during malolactic used by Burgundy winemakers. Exposing the fermentation, but it will be distinct from H2S, wine to the lees adds complication to the which smells like rotten eggs. flavor of the wine that would not be realized if If, during batonnage, you smell H2S in either you did not perform batonnage. Batonnage is wine style, it is important that you rack your used for many styles of white winemaking, wine off the lees immediately. If this happens, especially in the production of chardonnay. follow the directions under Chablis and

The actual effects on the wine as a result of Burgundy: Gross Lees Racking. Try to rack batonnage are not clearly known. Testing has over only a small amount of the lees (so that shown that wine allowed to aged sur-lees, or on there is a light dusting on the bottom of your the lees, will be less yellow in color than the carboy). At this point, your batonnage would same wine not aged on the lees. It has also be complete. been shown that tannins in the wine are If you are making both styles attracted to the yeast cell walls and Chardonnay,make sure that you do not released by the lees. This contaminate your Chablis carboy with malolactic culture from your Burgundy carboy 12

when stirring the lees. Simply stirring up your Chablis and Burgundy: Burgundy carboy and then using the same Cold Stabilization mixing spoon/stirring rod to mix your Chablis Once you have added the to fine carboy is enough to inoculate your Chablis your wine, holding the wine at 35°- 40°F / 1.7- carboy with malolactic bacteria. You have 4.5°C for two to three weeks before bottling protected that wine with lysozyme and SO2, will help settle out cream of tartar, lessening but it is advisable that you wash your mixing deposits in the finished bottles. This is called spoon/stirring rod thoroughly, and sterilize it cold stabilization. in between mixing the carboys. Ideally, have 2 separate mixing spoons/stirring rods, one for This is purely a cosmetic procedure that will each carboy. help clarify the wine. Precipitating out the cream of tarter in your carboy and then Chablis and Burgundy: bottling the clarified wine prevents you from Post Batonnage Fining opening a bottle (or more importantly, having After batonnage, the winemaking for both your someone you gave a bottle to) opening that Chablis and Burgundy carboys will be similar. bottle and having cream of tarter crystals floating around in the glass. However, these wines might be on different time schedules, with the Chablis wine most likely being bottled first. Chablis and Burgundy: Gross Lees Racking Once batonnage is complete, you will want to Once the wine falls clear through the actions clarify your wine. A wine can be clarified in of the bentonite and the cold stabilization many ways, through filtering, centrifugation (which will take from 7 to 21 days) it is time to and also through chemical methods. A very rack your wine off of the lees and other efficient and cost effective way to fine your sediment. In the case of the Burgundy carboy, wine is to use bentonite. you will be racking the wine off of the lees and oak cubes. The first racking off the lees is Bentonite is a clay that attracts particles in called the Gross Lees Racking. your wine and causes them to settle to the bottom of the carboy. Bentonite is quite To prepare for the Gross Lees Racking, you specific in protein fining. need to be sure that the wine is protected with

SO2. Add the appropriate amounts of SO2 Use 7 grams (1/4 oz.) of bentonite per 5- into the bottom of the receiving carboy. If gallons of wine. Follow the directions for making both styles, siphon the Chablis wine preparation of the bentonite. Simply pour the first to avoid malolactic bacteria bentonite slurry into each carboy at the contamination from the Burgundy wine. appropriate time. Stir it while adding it into the wine. The chemical reaction happens In the case of the Chablis wine, you will be quite fast and depends on the bentonite being adding the same amount of SO2 you added at progressively exposed to the wine. the end of sugar fermentation. Refer to your Chardonnay Log to determining how much SO2 you need to add.

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For your Burgundy wine, since you had to wait you can minimizing the amount of sediment until the end of the malolactic fermentation to you transfer. add your initial dose of SO2, you may not Place an airlock on your carboys and on your need to add this full amount of SO2 at this point. jugs. Allow the wine in the jugs to settle for a few hours and then rack this, without You need to determine how long it has been sediment, into their appropriate carboys. since you first added the SO2. (look it up in the Log) Divide the number of weeks it has been It is extremely important to minimize the air contact with your wine. If you find that you do since you added SO2 by 10, and then multiply not have enough wine to top up the carboys, this number by the amount of SO2 you added after malolactic fermentation. then you must use distilled water to top up the wine. You can also add sterilized glass beads For example, if you added 40 parts per million or marbles to displace the wine, thereby SO2 to the Burgundy wine after it completed eliminating airspace. If you have a supply of malolactic fermentation and it has been 6 argon, nitrogen, or even CO2, you may sparge weeks since that addition, then you will add the siphon hose, the carboy receiving and the following amount of SO2 to the wine at delivering the wine. this racking: Record the Smell and Taste of the wine after (40 ppm) x (6 weeks/10) = the Gross Lees Racking in the Chardonnay (40 ppm) x (0.6) = 24 ppm SO2 Log.

Racking entails siphoning or pumping the Chablis and Burgundy: wine off the sediment into a sterile carboy. Total Acidity and pH You must be very careful not to disturb the The balance between acids and bases is a sediment in the carboy you are racking from. hypothetical measurement that quantifies the This is the material that makes the wine way elements are, and helps us predict the cloudy. This means that you must leave the future. The pH of the wine affects the amount carboy in a position so that you do not have to of free SO2 that is available to the wine. The move it (and thereby disturb the sediment) actual amount of SO2 to add to a wine can before racking. Also make sure not to splash only be determined once the pH of the wine is the wine or cause it to bubble in the carboy known. The pH of a wine can change you are racking into. Allowing too much dramatically between harvest and the end of oxygen to be exposed to your wine can cause it fermentation. to oxidize prematurely. Alcohol concentration, as well as the cold Rack as much of the wine as you can into your temperature will decrease the solubility of sterilized carboy(s). Leave an inch or two of tartaric acid, causing it to settle to the bottom wine above the sediment. You will want to of the carboy as cream of tarter. Thus, since rack this remaining wine into one of your 3- the overall Total Acidity (TA) is decreasing, liter jugs. (Make sure you mark your jugs.) there is a corresponding increase in the pH of Most likely you will transfer over some of the the wine. After the sugar fermentation is sediment. Siphon off as much of the wine as 14

complete, it is a good time to check where the undergoing the primary sugar fermentation or wine stands, especially if a malolactic the secondary malolactic fermentation, that fermentation is not planned. addition of SO2 is not necessary with fruit in good condition. BV does believe it critical that The probability of a successful and complete exposure to the air be minimized and surface malolactic fermentation is dependent on many areas minimized. things, most notably on the wine’s pH. There are some conditions that require an Temperature, SO2 content, nutrient addition of SO2 at harvest. The fruit provided availability, the malolactic culture’s activity for here was harvested clean and will hold up characteristics as well as the alcohol without SO2, under conscientious percentage of the wine are all considerations. winemaking care, until after sugar If the pH of the wine is less than 3.2, fermentation is complete in the case of the malolactic fermentation becomes more Chablis wine, or once the malic acid reduction difficult. As the pH decreases, special cultures (Malolactic Fermentation) is complete with may be required. Malolactic bacteria are the Burgundy wine. inhibited by wine with over 14.5% alcohol. At 15% only special cultures will work reliably. Upon receipt of the laboratory results of your Temperatures below 65°F / 18°C will inhibit Burgundy wine sample, record these results in malolactic fermentation. Free and / or your Chardonnay Log. combined SO2 inhibits malolactic fermentation. The pH of the wine, after completion of malolactic fermentation, will be the guide in may only be added after determining how much SO2 is necessary to malolactic fermentation; tartaric acid may be properly preserve your wine. We use added at any time. You are not advised to Potassium Metabisulfite to add SO2 to wine. add citric acid. Tartaric acid has the nasty Read the tenths and hundredths position of habit of precipitating cream of tartar after your pH reading and this will tell you the addition to the wine. In your future wines, if amount of potassium metabisulfite, in parts it is necessary to add more tartaric acid, per million to add to your wine. make sure to add it at least 6 weeks before Example: If the pH is 3.78 you should add 78 bottling parts per million SO2 to the wine. If the pH is

Chablis and Burgundy: 3.45, add 45 parts per million SO2 to effectively protect the wine. Some chemists 2 pH & SO Additions advocate an additional 10 parts per million (SO2) is a gas. Potassium (ppm) SO2 be added for white wines. Metabisulfite is used as a preservative in winemaking. When added to wine, the Refer to the Chardonnay Log for a SO2 Potassium Metabisulfite will dissolve releasing addition chart and instructions for making a SO2. There are many methods for adding solution of SO2 for easy addition to your wine. SO2 to your wine and many different theories for when to add SO2. Brehm Vineyards feels - You must add SO2 (in the form of Potassium that as long as the wine is active, either Metabisulfite) as soon as the sugar 15

fermentation is complete for the Chablis effective. Corks cost a lot of money and often Carboy. offer an inferior seal when compared to crown caps. You need to spend at least $45.00 on a - You must add SO2 (in the form of Potassium corker to get one that really works. The most Metabisulfite) as soon as the malolactic recent corks I bought were over 20¢ each. If fermentation is complete for the Burgundy you chose to use corks, use good ones and a Carboy. floor model rental corker would be appropriate. Chablis and Burgundy: Bottling I do not want to project an image of a The wine is now stable. We have maintained a ‘Wacko’. I use corks in my wine bottles free SO2 presence in the wine to inhibit because I do not want to distract the recipient oxidation. Your wines should be young and from tasting the wine and the grapes. Here aggressive, but pleasant without any off smells you are paying me for my best thoughts. For or flavors. use in your home, for the best, economical seal available, bottle with crown caps. The After the Gross Lees Racking, allow the wine to wine will age with crown caps equally as well if settle for 3 more weeks. The wine is now the bottle were corked, often better. Cheap finally ready for bottling. Add the final corks are not worth what you pay for them. amount of SO2 to the bottom of the carboy from which you will bottle. Beware of the If you decide to use corks and rent or buy a fumes of SO2. This amount of SO2 is based on corker, make sure to get an irised floor model: the pH of the wine. This should be the same - Don’t soak your corks before bottling. Use amount you added after you received the #9 corks with a light paraffin coating of good laboratory report. (Do not worry that you quality at least 1-1/2 inches long. I am added SO2 a few weeks earlier. The bottling unimpressed with various foam/plastic process introduces a lot of oxygen to the wine stoppers. Good quality discs placed on and it is important that you protect the wine the ends of fused cork particles do a decent by adding a full dose of SO2 prior to bottling.) job for relatively short storage. Rack without splashing the wine. Set the carboy(s) on a bench or shelf from which you - Allow the corked bottles to stand upright for can siphon the wine. three days before putting them on their sides

or upside down. Many winemakers will sparge their receiving carboy with Carbon Dioxide (CO2) or Chablis and Burgundy: Nitrogen (N2) before racking. This is a definite plus. It reduces oxidation Drinking the Wine significantly. It may cause a slight spritz if It is important that you allow your wine to breathe before consuming. Open your bottle CO2 is used. at least an hour before you are going to pour I recommend beer, wine, soda or it. Give the wine a good swirl in your glass bottles that can receive a crown cap for before smelling or sipping. bottling. Bottle caps are extremely cost 16

The amount of SO2 you used to protect the wine can cause the wine to taste sharp if you the wine soon after bottling. Allowing the wine to breathe will lessening this SO2 effect.

Both the Chablis and Burgundy wines will be pleasurable in 6-9 months after bottling, but they will both hit their stride in 12-18 months.

Smaller bottles age faster than large. Be sure to label your wine.

Good Winemaking!

Peter Brehm

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