8 THE SUN, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5, 1919. 4 FEATHERS ADORN SOME OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE Ostrich Plumes Are Used Effectively, Hanging Over the Head to Suggest the Raglan The Fashionable . Picture Appears in Reduced Size and Is Worn for the Most Nicknacks Part in the Evening Show Little Change For Women ning, lend T really looks as though the ostrich whllo older women chooso a themselves admirably for twad- Vnown ns "kitten's ear." the ""most When pockets In plush or vel dling dove-- such skirts arrive, plumo wag on Its way to tho hat black hat of chenille or or draping. Tho ovora, dolicato and silky of pinks. Tho off the fancy bag will to somo extent go vet, ornamented with plumes or jet. downs, duveteens, &c, look muclt color for blouses or four seasons ago I A fow of tho best hats of the year darker Is tho brown out qr style. Tho stylo of has not changed thicker than they are; Indeed all tho that la so favored In everything for THREE revived, and many were nro garnished with the feather and they since spring. A closo observer might talent has been pot on tho soft velvety tho street n. pheasant, the HANDBAGS AND PANS. fln nld Rhawln rnAtnrf.l aro very too. Tho plume declare that tho veil Is losing favor. surface, for those materials have not I'ocKots, pockets, and again pockets. successful of over There is less use for It now that the much body. The chiffon velvets, as Wo discovered them at the bocin- - from tho seclusion and darkness Is tho uncurled sort nnd hangs much In vogue as when they appeared F you would Judgo from what tho invisible hair net has been so gener nlng of the war when the British om-c- er some old chest or attlo to bo cut up the hoad In a manner to suggest tho years ago, somo, 01 best places aro displaying you ally' adopted. But face veils will over mane tne nest had so many effective pouches on I into fashionable accessories. Quite V rnglari. Sometimes the plumo looks bo with us to some extent not only frocks for afternoon and evening. his coat, and women found that they would think that every sort of cos- Even the metal cloth, which is so rich bag or sack was stylish, and Is large sums were offered by some of the j Jo ho wot and this Is when It lias been becauso they blend colors of the wero not only useful but decorative. that that It needs no support, adapts It- They aro now so really the way, for we have arrived smart dressmakers who were making glyccrlned baked. Anothor treat- tume but becauso veils are flattering vast that ono may and nnd keep strands of hair in place. T'io self keenly to the folds and bouffancy almost store one's earthly croodn at a happy epoch whoro almost any- nue of genuine paisley for tho trimming ment of feathers Is that known is It may be required to give. Nearly alt pockets thing In a hand bag may be carried New Tforkcr puts on her veil, first therein. Tho are not only on of frocks in combination with fur, In "burnt gooso." It suggests the. aigrette making it ti part of the head, then fabrlc3 of tho summer havo been re- Jackets and coats but on skirts of without apology. It must be In gooa peated for winter and they, too, nro - scarfs and muffs for handbags and on but is moro ragged than the. aigrette poses the hat. The Parlslenne places every description. The- pocket has tirdor and its shape not destroyod by the hat, then loops the veil tightly cupplo and drapo easily. In the sum not yet been seen on evenings frocks too full portions, It must havo an air hats. But for the most part the makers and less silky. These feathers are mer, things were mostly silk finish. about It. Uoth methods are good, but but It surely will nnd then dancers, of comparative nownces, this is all' that of women's apparel were content to scon mostly In black, but a few ap- tho American moro practical Now it is wool nnd threads nro diners, and theatregoers' will find is nsked of the bag. that of coarser. use the product of present day looms, pear In henna, pheasant and mole. nnd economic because time is saved In Most of the stuffs aro varia them so convenient they will wonder They come in patent and dull leather tions of the silk Jersey that people how they lived In In silk, In In braid, In which had the same boauty of colors They arc of tho color o the hat. Tho the cosier woy and ono buys n shorter ago. ever, without them. satin, velvet. raved about so a fow years women millinery novelty. veil. beon predicted will and would satisfy most quite blondlno feather Is a Tho voll of lino Is most It has that this black mesh bo a big lace year, but so far nothing as much as the veritable old paisley. Jlonkoy fur arranged to fall about the modish, tho ono that is Uko a Bpldcr's Apparently we did not have enough brim of a. hat suggests tho aigrette. of tho sort has arrived. Thero are web. made in octagons and squares touches occasionally, lace of this paisley vogue. At any rate, It A novelty that haa gained few follow- Whllo supreme, of lace but this net veil reigns is now too high priced to be sought. has come back, and somo of tho smart- ers Is that of anointing a lint with thero aro good examples in delicate It Is so in Europe it Is so here, where est of now hats are showing tho use pieces of black patent leather. The flowers popular mesh In and and another so many of tho factory hands left their of tho paisley colors and weave. You leather Is cul in scrolls, comets, &c, the heavy squaro mesh. Colored veils will remember that for some reason and looks like jet: but It rather makes same dye ns probably looms to do war work and have not tho tho hat will Is organized when paisley was popular a few years any appear heavy and ordinary. vogue nffalre, returned. If labor abroad hat be in for dressy but and all machines get busy, then a big ago .It never became popular to the Tho picture hat Is here but smaller nothing can withstand the black and of commonplacencss, so see It. Is lace season may bo counted on In the extent there than we used to It for dark brown. Is no feeling against as might Is or near future and America will bo it there evening mostly nnd of velvet When employed gloves aro Just as havo been had It been run to the Tho under part of the brim long evening deluged with cheap Imported stuff. As brocade for wear and Just ns embroidery, seems to ground at that time. is apt to bo tome pretty ovenlng Miort for day woar as over. Evening tor it confine it shade, turquoise, coral or Xawn. These gloves self to dressy tallormades, and then have practically been discarded Is on long Have you noticed that two not with ostrich n long time, whllo women put tho Jacket, generally and hats it ornamented for but don't over big pockets. The Is sometimes three different sorts of plumes employ lovely colored metal wear they aro in the floss fur them carried the coarse and tho work is dono of the aro used at tho same time in tho same roses which are ono of tho best ideas hand as though ready for an emer- samo many oro used, gency. color as tho garment it trims. fur piece this year? Other years thero yet launched. Not Tho absence of sleeves for eve Collars flight, though was something of thing. two or placed against the crown ning may resurrect glove, have taken the this sort of three the but time finish about tho round neck of n instance, sealskin coat showed which is neither high nor low, but nlono will tell. Those seen aio in suede For a Young girls glazed blouso Is so neat that ono scarcely a collar of skunk or chinchilla. But Just a decent height. and kid, some with blank stitch notices absence. wear tho colored velvet hat for eve lng, some with white. tho Dresses button this year there Is the most unexpected over tho shoulder or in the back. This sort of combination of two furs that Is not good news to tho girl that has you wpuld never havo thought of UEl.ig to dress alone, but when she finds that together, and all within the small com- tho frock crosses over nnd laps rather pass of a small collar or scarf. It Silk Appear, than hooks, sho may feel relieved, might look, if you didn't know, as If Sailor Hats ( There is not much fastening to the the furriers wero trying to use up dresses, even tho best of them. They small bits of fur that they had on are so loose and they cover tho body m some thrifty woman who Recalling the Yeomanettes so comfortably only fastening hand, or as if that a wore them had two partly worn out of natty thing must depend somewhere here and there is sufficient. - the about pieces- and had ono good piece made toilette, The over-blou- is nothing more APPEARANCE the war with the and tho frlngo or cascade parts of both. But that garnish or else tho sash ends do this. or less than a trimmed Russian from tho better and And tho moro Import blouse, made long Is not at all what has happened. It Is sash is of than quite as as the patch- round black straw hats has caused a ever with the new dresses. It does peasant wears his. Tho blouso is so distinctly the fad to have these not wrap Itself so much aboUt tho pretty that when worn with tho work pieces of fur, and the odder tho vogue this fall in what Is known in mm- llkos it. tho trade ns "black silk sailors." The body, after the Luca delta Robbia's tailor suit, when the long jacket is combination tho better fashion novelty, babies, as it used to, but the sash is removed, the blouse, which must be of price of this millinery whllo you to bo qulto exquisite high, Is when now1 narrower and is moro of a string tho same tone, finishes off thet lovely If want fairly, not unreasonable special to go with each ove- the source of production Is studied. than It used to be. To mako a nice toilette. There are new blouses In havo a fan finish tho sash Is often gathered into georgette of lighter color than the nlng frock. It Is on Interesting con- Investigation snows that in this mm made of tho same country y a ball of passcrnenterle wool or Into tallormade, but the effect while more mi ceit to have the fans thero are fewer than to trim the two("hundred men and women schooled Jet ends. dainty lacked distinction. Tho pret- sort of thing that is used The materials even for tallormades tiest of these light colors is what Is frock. For instance, to wear with a in tho production of tho best type narrow of silk 'hat suitable for women's frock that was trimmed with knlfepleated ruffles of georgette thero wear. For years tho trade languished knife-pleat- was a fan that was mado of with tho passing of men's "toppers," Ivory feeing mainly by limited georgette mo'unted on sustained the mm Is trimmed demand for women's riding hats. The sticks. vVlth tho frock that re- with ostrich plumage you should have usoi of tho automobile further you no 4 an ostrich fan to match, and if stricted that demand, and thus new young- persons took up tho art of mak- aro wearing one of tho Interesting ing a." silk hat. frocks that shows handpolnted deco-ntlloii- B The result is that the few existing you should have a fn that has Bilk hat makers are far above middlo the same sort of painted design. age. Frederick Astrom, a manufac- tho turer of the city, recently told a Sun For tho little girl's school frock reporter that to his knowledgo the pongee gutmpe recommends Itself to oldest hat maker has passed his nine- the careful motner, ana inese pu" though busy, gulmpes that are offered at somo of tieth birthday, still and chil- that' tho youngest ho knew was more the high price specialty shops for home without than forty-fiv- e. dren may bo made at As would bo expected In such an difficulty. They aro worn with frocks ancient and almost obsolete colling of navy bluo serge or with corduroy the tools used are almost as antique as 8 frocks and appear fresh longer than thoso whp use them. Benches at tho white cotton gulmpo, but ro which silk hat makers work are mado through the laundry quite ns well. of mahogany, worn to a wonderful Somo of them are mado In pongee col- smoothness and brilliancy by reason V ored silk. of their ego. The curious wooden forms on which the silk hats are Ml Fringed hats are a novelty. Some of shaped are equally glistening. The, thetn nro covered with real fringe, of particular tools used In the shaping silk threads, and some with fur or likewise are as comfortable to tho 5 feather fronds made to look like fringe. user's hand as Is an old shoe to tho Whatever tho fringe may be, it It foot, and, like an old shoe, almost as wound around and around the -lik- e disreputable In appearance, though hat, or else forms a single encir- efficient r cling band, If It is deep enough. The real silk hat is a built up thing. Tinon of gossamer fineness Is cut to LONDON'S RENTAL PROBLEM. the approximate shape and dipped In a solution of purest shellac. One after UST as Now York has been forced. another of theso sticky layers Is the shortage of housei made; through Then they are moulded around ar.d apartments, to remodel eome pressed all these pieces a time, a tho toss J the ancient wooden form and at for such fect of sleep had had on of Its old mansions Into modem tene- with an iron so hot that the several WW display would be too gruesome and many persons," the doctor added, as followed suit. two objects ho ments, so London has layers are welded together into one but one or Jet on warmed to his subject and became filled up the hotels and homei mm mm. corsage emphatic In to argu- The war stiff waterproof shape. Incidentally tho renders the picture strik order clinch his of Liondon to capacity nnd a bit more, ing helps out In tho color ment. "Many of my paUents be- it may bo remarked that these silk and schemo. had tfo when Tommy Atkins returned home hat makers who wield these heavy mm come so run down In health as a re Us sleep after tho alcnlnft of the armistice irons on the shellac layers all have Saving sult of short 'rations' that they abodes in which Daylight proved easy victims of baffling found precious few extraordinarily strong arms, because the find Tommy aikiii.--. malady. Sleep Is nature's great re- ho might shelter. their years of swinging heavy irons Affects Health accustomed to trencfc life from his L.THOUI&H storer of vitality and builder of tis- years, around and around havo extended the . I. A Congress prob-Z- A flrst hand contact with It for beyond normal. sues that have been worn through and muscles far ably passed tho repeal of day's If accus- was now desirous of the eate The, glistening silk the activities, and tho promptly covers for the tho daylight saving tomed amount of sleep Is not obtained comforts of the civilian nnd Incrod-ibl- o bill over the hats are sewn together with tho victim suffers deterioration of laid down a vocal barrage which speed by a few expert women tho President's head becauso of poll-ti- cs London authorities wore not slow to In to health, toxic poisons accumulate In who use a stitch different from any order catch the farmers' his body nnd he becomes susceptible heed. votes the members performed an net, Sep used In any other trade. Theso to tho first llttlo harmful germ that The result, up to the first oi maybe unwittingly, will do - "cover sewors," as they are called, that much inarches bj- the outer guards pro- tember, was that application hud been wages. toward raising the health standard In remodelling of more than demand and obtsln unusual 1 vided by nature, nn made, for the V&i. tho So where attack U Their services Just now are bo highly United States." said a well begun with all kinds of germ ?,000 of London's old, older nnd oldest known New York physician In com ammuni- priced that their earnings probably tion, so that It Is not long until the mansions Into spartments under the to. menting on e- -. are tho highest of any women work- tho latest difference victim raises the white flag, goes to watchful eve of the Ministry of Health. tween the executive legislative pres- ers in the city. and bed because he has to and calls In a The Ministry Insists, despite tho Like many other industries of Its departments In Washington that cnine Physician. ent crowding and Jamming, thnt ths to a decision. strictly sanitary kind, its centre Is old time New York. "Then tho doctor has two ailments new homes must be Crosby street, Is "Why, do you know," he continued, and every precaution taken for the In corner of arand, with which to contend, the loss vl-- .t a manufactory that a largo number of persons of well being and health of tho pros silk hat which has v nnd the germ malady, A physi- - been In existence for more fifty old brocade and the new dressy bags evaded that law persistently in tho pective tenant, whether he Is a so'- than f-- cian can hardly a patient years TT are largely copies of tho antique and belief that they wero fooling old .convlnco that dler or a civilian. These 1,000 old as such and which is known the loss of sleep has had so much ef- country over. WW quaint and delightful they are. Most Father Time, when at the same tlmo mansions, according to the figures o' the only fect on his general system. The silk hat makers, while of theso are In colored beads and for the ones who were being the Ministry, form only a part of th not winked were Many per "Somo persons gain tho erroneous unionized, have a closo asxocUv shape are umall editions of tho pic- themselves? Impression houses which aro suitable for sons who wore In tho. of going that sleep can bo carried be remodelled tlon of their own, with death and turesque saddle bogs. "Pouch bag" habit over like llgures in addition and which must mm to 11 and sub- b- - sickness benefits. As U the case nro also a novelty for evening. In bed at o'clock at night would if the peaco throngs are to be with yawn when tho clock's hands pointed traction, such as by sleeping late on commodaicd before now homef ar all highly skilled workers, they do the patterns and colors employed the onca In mm to 11, remark that It really was only Sunday a while they can mako not rely upon the strike to enforce effect Is almost mosaic. up for what thoy havo lost. constructed. so to 10 o'clock 'by rights,' decldo to use It takes Work already has started on chanc- thejr. wage demands. Every one Is a The fan doar the heart of something like n serious ailment to In- fully the hour that they believed was ing more than 1,000 of the mansions plecp worker and If his boss. Is not woman and probably her greatest disabuse their minds of the Idea. strument of coquetrle defence, Is being stolen from them and wait up I,o. and it is the expectation of the Mm agreeable to changes In working s, and lng sleep is like drawing on principal hero In all its loveliness. The until It generally was after 12. when Istry that now places will be ready advances In pay or time 'off, ostrich instead Of interest In a Dank. Its ef- plume sways with the best fan, for tho they got tucked between the sheets. for occupancy before the llrist snow the workman simply puts his tools In fects aro felt In lutor Ufa if not before . reaspn that the best fans are of os- "In the morning, though, they had of winter. Tho activity of the I.ondo a Utto bag and goes to another shop. up, be "I know of somo persons who nro officials apartment ihumerlcal trich. The form is half oval, long to settle as nature cannot sleeping in providing new The scarcity of workers of easily Feeling under the daisies now that Is In of the l - 5 on the slats, and the plumo Is curled cheated so as humans. wpuld and' Indicated a statement his kind assures him a Job wherever tho lack of sleep to which be alive well If they had not Istry showing tho application. mail to full over Itself most gracefully. the hour's tried to put It on bo may apply. they had been accustomed, the time over Nature on the up to September 1.. The list follows The niost delicate fans are buff, and sleeping game. Most of them were the Uyo is so easy and evaders would be compelled to desert Schemes submitted 4.3" beds, most victims of Influenza nnd pneumonia," Area ot approved IV. 41 DRESS TRIMMINGS. that It hnrmonlzos with any costume. their comfortablo of them conclusion sites (aires). knowing they to ba nt their Jn tho doctor said with Plans of houses approve J 15 91 Society will havo a great time with that had a twinkle In his eye: Ni business at a certain time, or els- - House on which building has dress trimmings the ragged effect fans and Jewelry, and Jewels that "Those who will hall great-es- "Those In the habit of awaking with the t begun .... S 0'"' I ,fs sought though at long range, have not seen the light of day will delight the action of Congress are udorn all society affairs. No one with a morning grouch would have many When the mansions are icinodeilri for once it becomes a fad the III doubled, the wives of of the victims of Into present day lawllor ' w'l thought of splashing corsages with their temper Just about sleep. flats the popularity will go. Borne of the half as they performed morning lot The latter have been hav- be forced to forget nnd drop l n stones during the war or last winter, end their ing every tallormade have long ribbon pieces de- ablutions all kinds of promises would a battle morning to get their profiteering tactics. Tho Ministry pending from the short Jackot, or long but in honor of the return of our vic- husbands out of bed o that tho men women be made to themselves as to how they Health has ruled thnt the new houe strips of tho goods. Then wooli'n torious army will do thftmselvei would not lose their Jobs, and after th and proud would pop into bed at exactly 11 must be and thnt Bilk fringe aro here to stay, and with this winter and Jewels will be at they had performed tho unpleasant owner will r as that nlglit. Of course their resolu- be entitled to n fair that a looped fringe trimming known much courted the would ooze of as tho duty they havo had to stand such on his no always colored ove tions out them munerntlon propert. mcie ns "cascade." Somo of the very best Jet enhances a lay wore on, and when 11 camo growls mid accumulated poevlshness The Ministry also wiys ti e or wares are garnished nlng toilette and tho earrings and that with this which again there would bo tho samo old that It was i relief to them when their version of mansions into Hats v i' trimming-give- s brooch pins, to say nothing of neck is sure toowain. This A ouvctyn suit and one ot velvet, a coat of caracul with sable collar and muff, a brown and performance, with never a thought better halves rushed to work after duce the quality of the neighbor uoo 1 laces and bracelets, will be very fash- cf the morrow. gulping what thoy could with the lim- and necessarily the average of toe Hong? aiS i motor hat and veil, a tall hat crowned with cassowary feathers, and a broad black hat ionable, every dressed lines jnoV talbeBe Of course well "It was during the Influent jt-- ited tlmo thoy had left for eating after for the same district will b rather bowbast than elongation. Some- - with paradise plumes, n woman knows that she will not wear demie that I notlcad what a bad ef being UU in rlslag." lower than whttt homes were th nils. I