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ROUTE 66 ESCAPE • EXPLORE •EXPERIENCE •EXPLORE ESCAPE KENDRICK TRAIL •PETRIFIED FOREST •HOGNOSE SNAKES •FOREST ROAD 300 Plus: an Odeto Themotherroad!

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ROUTE 66 ESCAPE • EXPLORE •EXPERIENCE •EXPLORE ESCAPE KENDRICK TRAIL •PETRIFIED FOREST •HOGNOSE SNAKES •FOREST ROAD 300 Plus: an Odeto Themotherroad! IT’S NOT ALL NEON 2015 SIGNS AND STRAWBERRY MAY ROUTE 66 MILKSHAKES (SEE BELOW) GIANT GROUND SLOTHS ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE IT’S A SLOW READ — WILLIAM — LEAST HEAT-MOON Route 66, near “Any traveler who misses traveler the journey get.” misses to going “Any about he’s all Parks, Arizona An Ode to the Mother Road! plus: WHY THE VATICAN HAS A TELESCOPE IN ARIZONA • DARWIN VAN CAMPEN KENDRICK TRAIL • PETRIFIED FOREST • HOGNOSE SNAKES • FOREST ROAD 300 CONTENTS 05.15 Grand Canyon National Park 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 56 WHERE IS THIS? > > > Historic Route 66 Petrified Forest National Park Flagstaff 5 THE JOURNAL 46 OF PREHISTORIC PROPORTIONS 52 SCENIC DRIVE Prescott Mogollon Rim People, places and things from around the state, including a look back When Willis Evans first spotted a hole in a limestone cliff above Forest Road 300: Aspens, evergreens and panoramas are the at iconic photographer Darwin Van Campen, Petrified Forest National Lake Mead, he had no idea that it preserved “one of the world’s dominant features along this dirt road on the Mogollon Rim, but PHOENIX Park, Western hognose snakes and the South Rim’s Hull Cabin. richest known sources of fossils and other evidence of life in the there are lakes, too, and some of the state’s best hiking trails. ice age.” Among other paleontological treasures, the cave held Mount Graham 16 ON THE ROAD AGAIN the skulls, claws and shaggy hair of giant ground sloths, extinct 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH We’ve been exploring Historic Route 66 since the early part of the last mammals the size of a large black bear. Kendrick Trail: In addition to solitude and altitude, this hike century, even before the Joads hit the Mother Road. This month, we’re BY KAYLA FROST offers a great climb through a subalpine forest of Douglas firs, POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE headed back with a new map and some old friends. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JON FOSTER Engelmann spruce and aspens. BY NOAH AUSTIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY ERIC HANSON 50 RACHEL TSO: ON LOCATION Film crews are nothing new on the Navajo Nation, but the demo- 24 FEELIN’ GROOVY graphics are skewing younger thanks to Rachel Tso, a gifted What do you get when you send your most playful photographer out on teacher who runs the award-winning documentary-filmmaking Historic Route 66 with an iPhone app called Hipstamatic? Among other program at STAR School. things, you get a kitschy collection of “vintage” snapshots and a new BY ANNETTE MCGIVNEY look at an old subject — the Mother Road hasn’t looked this cool PHOTOGRAPH BY DAWN KISH in decades. A PORTFOLIO BY DAWN KISH 30 I, HIGHWAY 66 In 1937, Historic Route 66 got its final installment of pavement, near the tiny town of Valentine. That same year, we published a “first person” story from the perspective of the road itself. This month, we’re excerpting that piece exactly as it was written 78 years ago. BY G.T. MIDGLEY 32 THE SCENIC ROUTE Neon motel signs, convertibles, station wagons, roadside attractions, GET MORE ONLINE ice-cream stands, Burma Shave billboards ... that’s what most people www.arizonahighways.com think of when they think of Historic Route 66. The bulk of the route, however, is surrounded by Mother Nature, and some of the most scenic www.facebook.com/azhighways stretches are in Arizona. @azhighways A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA @arizonahighways 42 FOR HEAVEN’S SAKE That there’s an observatory on Mount Graham isn’t unusual. That it’s run by the Vatican is hard to figure. But, there it is. And its mission, according ◗ A honeybee takes flight amid yellow to the newly canonized Pope John XXIII, is twofold: to explain the church wildflowers in the Florence area. | EIRINI PAJAK to the scientists, and to explain science to the church. CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; BY MATT JAFFE SHUTTER: 1/600 SEC; APERTURE: F/6.3; PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL HATCHER ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 100 MM FRONT COVER The San Francisco Peaks near Flagstaff loom over a section of Historic Route 66 in the Kaibab National Forest. | TOM BEAN CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; SHUTTER: 1/90 SEC; APERTURE: F/16; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 105 MM BACK COVER Storm clouds form over Holbrook’s Wigwam Motel, a longtime Route 66 landmark where the rooms are shaped like teepees (not wigwams). | KERRICK JAMES CAMERA: PENTAX K-5; SHUTTER: 1/125 SEC; APERTURE: F/11; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 16 MM PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors MATT JAFFE Writer Matt Jaffe had heard about the Mount Graham Please Drive Carefully International Observatory, but until he started doing MAY 2015 VOL. 91, NO. 5 research on Arizona’s “sky islands,” he had no idea the 800-543-5432 Vatican operated an astronomical facility on the mountain istoric Route 66. That’s our cover I was grateful for being investigated www.arizonahighways.com story this month. Actually, we the input. And then — but this much I do (see For Heaven’s Sake, page 42). “It seemed so incongru- H have four features on the Mother Annette said, “Maybe know: A mother and PUBLISHER Win Holden ous,” he says. “I became curious about why the observatory Road, along with a piece about the Vati- you could mention her two children were EDITOR Robert Stieve was there and what kind of work they would do.” Jaffe can’s telescope on Mount Graham, a story something in your col- walking in a clearly ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, says understanding the science and technology of modern DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero GODGES JOHN on giant ground sloths and a profile of umn about what hap- marked crosswalk, telescopes was a challenge, so he appreciated the patience MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer Rachel Tso. pened — she could use almost to the curb, of the priests he interviewed for the story. And he was surprised to learn that the world’s most ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin You probably don’t know Rachel Tso. some positive energy expecting to make it advanced Earth-based telescopes get their start under the University of Arizona’s football EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel I don’t know her, either, but when I heard from Arizona Highways from Point A to Point B. stadium. “I grew up in Chicago,” he says, “and it reminded me of how the first controlled PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida about the remarkable work she’s doing at and its readers.” They were doing nuclear chain reaction took place below Stagg Field at the University of Chicago in 1942.” Jaffe CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney a charter school in Northern Arizona, So, we’re running everything right when also contributes to Sunset, Westways and Los Angeles magazines. ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney I was impressed. The school is called the story, and hop- something went terri- STAR (Service to All Relations), and ing for some positive bly wrong. DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice Rachel leads the place-based media-arts energy. We’re also “I’ve never felt MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey DAWN KISH PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi curriculum there. Among other things, hoping that something MARKOW PAUL such pain, and I know Photographer Dawn Kish lives just off the Mother Road in she and her students produce award- else comes out of this tragedy: more it’s not going to stop.” WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow Flagstaff, so shooting a portfolio focused on the quirks of winning documentaries about South- responsible drivers. Every year in Ari- Rachel posted that on Facebook the CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman Historic Route 66 (see Feelin’ Groovy, page 24) came natu- western Native American culture. zona, about 800 people die on our public day after the accident. It’s one sentence FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen rally to her. So did the way she made her photos. “I’ve trav- It’s more than just filmmaking, roadways, and that doesn’t include what from a courageous piece of writing that OPERATIONS/IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis eled this road all my life, and it’s kitschy and fun,” Kish says. “I though. As Annette McGivney writes happens in shopping-center parking left everyone here in tears. We know that wanted the images to have that feeling, so I shot them with in Rachel Tso: On Location, “She’s also lots. The day after Rachel’s accident, the our story isn’t going to ease her pain, but CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 my iPhone, using an app called Hipstamatic. I was hooked showing students how to succeed in life Flagstaff Police Department released a maybe it will offer a respite. And maybe SPONSORSHIP SALES on the app because of the ‘vintage’ look it gives photos. REPRESENTATION On Media Publications and connect with their culture and land- statement: “[We] would like to remind all her tragic loss will serve as a reminder Lesley Bennett I thought, Wouldn’t it be great to do photos on Route 66 with scape.” Like so many teachers, Rachel is motorists that they should always remain that we, as drivers, take on a tremendous 602-445-7160 this groovy look?” While the iPhone’s camera has its limita- one of those unsung heroes who make alert and cautious, especially when driv- responsibility when we hit the road, tions, Kish says she enjoyed the “instant gratification” of see- our world a better place.
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