Travels in Romantic Southern Germany

october 2013 | oUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com Traveling the world in search of truly enchan ting places

This Issue 1 Southern Germany 3 Munich Hotels from munich t o the moselle valley 4 Moselle Valley Wines 6 Gstaad and Zurich 7 Restaurants Travels in Romantic 8 Aman Update The Hideaway Report Southern Germany digital edition features more than 75 pages of Hidden in the long shadows cas t by Italy and France, Germany is rarely the reviews, trip photography and videos. It is available American tourist’s first choice for a European vacation. But those who never make a free to subscribers on German trip miss some of the continent’s great travel experiences. This is the country of Apple’s Newsstand and at AndrewHarper.com. the Brothers Grimm, and when the mist wreaths around the forested hills crowned with crumbling fortresses, the landscape resembles a scene from a fairy tale. It was from this IN the neWs natural splendor that Romantic painters such as Caspar David Friedrich drew inspiration. Though World War II left deep scars on the urban Completed in 1916 as a refuge for artists and Plettenberg environment, many towns escaped the bombs, leaving intellectuals, the property maintains that heritage Reopens their medieval and Renaissance architecture intact. to this day, regularly inviting authors, actors and On a recent trip to South And those cities that were severely damaged have musicians to speak and perform in its airy concert Africa, I was surprised to (in most cases) been thoughtfully restored. Berlin find uncertainty swirling has emerged as a thriving center of contemporary around one of the coun- art and architecture; Munich retains its elegant Old try’s best-loved resorts. Located 325 miles east World atmosphere; and even devastated Dresden has of Cape Town, The reclaimed its baroque grandeur, with the graceful Plettenberg commands dome of the Frauenkirche once again dominating a glorious view of the the skyline. Today, American visitors will also find Indian Ocean. Having imaginative “New German” cuisine, complemented been closed for some months, the property by a flourishing viticultural tradition. reopened in September. Apparently, the interior ermany can be explored with ease on fast and has been completely efficient trains, or by well-maintained and well- redesigned, and the G Junior Suite, Schloss Elmau hotel now offers many marked roads. We picked up a rental car at Munich more interconnecting Airport and headed south toward the Bavarian hall. A fire in 2005 virtually destroyed two-thirds family rooms. CEO Tony Alps. Just a short drive beyond the city’s southern of the guest rooms, but after a renovation by the Romer-Lee says that the outskirts, the first rugged mountains appeared on original architectural firm, the resort reopened, intention is to provide a “more personalized the horizon, providing a backdrop to tidy villages and along with a new spa facility. level of service and a wildflower-speckled meadows.SCHLOSS ELMAU, This 32,000-square-foot spa is one of Schloss less formal feel.” I look a 135-room resort and spa, stands in a particularly Elmau’s main draws. In addition to a family area forward to seeing what scenic tract of pine-forested countryside at the with a rooftop pool, indoor pool and fitness center, this means in practice. foot of the snow-streaked Wetterstein Mountains. an adults-only section contains an outdoor saltwater

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. pool facing the mountains, a steam room, a sauna, With the exception of a few lodgings in the wing excursions a spacious relaxation lounge and an immense undamaged by fire, the guest rooms are contemporary hammam, reportedly the largest in Europe west in style. Our Junior Suite had red-and-gold Indian- of Istanbul. This atmospheric space, with vaulted Palaces inspired upholstery on the sofa, armchair and ceilings and marble fountains, provides a wonderful of Ludwig II headboard; and a limestone and sandstone bath with

setting for treatments, and few remedies are as The famous 19th-centurySWEDEN a soaking tub and separate shower. Attractive views reviving to the jet-lagged traveler as a hammam ritual. Schloss Neuschwanstein extend in all directions from Schloss Elmau, but My well-trained therapist gave me an invigorating draws huge crowds, so ask accommodations facing south have the most direct full-body scrub followed by a relaxing soap massage, your concierge to arrange panoramas of the Wetterstein Mountains. Rooms in a reserved entry. On our in preparation for which I found myself coveredDENMARK by a the main building with mountainview balconies are recent trip, we focused warm blanket of soap bubbles more than a foot thick. instead on the lesser- the most desirable; alternatively, consider staying The property’s gourmet restaurant should known palaces of Linderhof in the adjacent Wetterstein Wing, where lodgings theoretically be another attraction, but we were and Herrenchiemsee. have floor-to-ceiling windows directly facing the surprised to find ourselves alone the night we dined The island palace of mountains (avoid ground-floor rooms, which lack Herrenchiemsee was there. Luce d’Oro’s tasting menu proved to be one never completed, and King privacy). Our westerly view took in the sunset of the finest we had on our entire journey, with Ludwig II spent all of two over the distant Alps, along with a section of the fascinating wine pairings. A 1994 Grüner Veltliner weeks there. Nevertheless, Wetterstein and a swath of the well-kept grounds. Spätlese came to vivid life with an exquisite dish the gilded plaster, half-ton Dotted with pairs of loungers, the lawn eventually crystal chandeliers and of crayfish, and an unusual Sauvignon Blanc from immense hall of mirrors still merges seamlessly with the surrounding forest. POLAND Baden-Württemberg cut right through the savory dazzle with their astound- Both couples and families will find Schloss richness of the “Surprise Egg” course, a slow-cooked ing opulence. An older Elmau appealing, because the resort manages to egg hidden amid asparagus, pork cheeks and morels. German visitor remarked, make children feel welcome without alienating In Fidelio, the resort’s dramatic Italian restaurant, “Ludwig spent his money adult guests in search of tranquility. The property NETHERLANDS well.” Seeing my puzzled I particularly enjoyed the pappardelle with rabbit expression, he explained, makes a convenient base for visiting a host of major ragout and mustard, and perfectly cooked John “The other kings spent sights, including Schloss Neuschwanstein and Dory with tender turnips and creamy black beans. their money on wars.” Schloss Linderhof (palaces built by King Ludwig II), the Wieskirche (a rococo church), the Zugspitze (Germany’s highest mountain) and the frescoed COLOGNE GERMANY houses of Oberammergau. 0 50 100 MI 0 50 100 KM bout two hours to the east is the Chiemsee, a KOBLENZ picturesque lake surrounded by low mountains. MOSELLE A VALLEY 6 FRANKFURT Because of its location halfway between Munich and 5 CZECH Salzburg, we have previously visited the lake and REPUBLIC TRIER WURZBURG the over-the-top island palace of Herrenchiemsee en route between the two cities. This time, we HEIDELBERG 4 3 ROTHENBURG decided to stop and spend a night at the RESIDENZ 7 OB DER TAUBER HEINZ WINKLER. After a speedy check-in, a young e R. Moselle R. hin employee led us to our Garden Suite, said “OK — R BADEN-BADEN enjoy your stay,” and left. It would have been nice FRANCE if he had told us a little about the hotel’s amenities, AUGSBURG Neckar R. given us a quick tour of our accommodations, and FREIBURG MUNICH 8 Chiems ee helped us bring our luggage upstairs. The comfortable Lake SCHLOSS 2 Constance NEUSCHWANSTEIN duplex suite had a color scheme of butter yellow and 1 hunter green, and faced an attractive shared garden SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA courtyard backdropped by verdant mountains. The tile bath was spotless, but some of the upholstery HOTELS REVIEWED RATING 1 Schloss Elmau A95 6 Schlosshotel Kronberg A92 in the living room showed wear, and I didn’t care 2 Residenz Heinz Winkler 89 Villa Rothschild Kempinski A94 for the faux-wood laminate flooring. 3 Hotel Eisenhut 89 7 Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe A94 The cheery, mountainview restaurant served 4 Heidelberg Suites 85 8 The Charles A92 unfussy presentations of well-prepared, top-quality 5 Weinromantikhotel Richtershof A90 Mandarin Oriental A96 ingredients. Standouts included an arugula salad

2 hideaway report | October 2013 accompanied by langoustine tails and local saibling city hotels (char) roe, and a creamy soup studded with morel tips and crescents of cucumber. Guests can also Munich Lodging Options take advantage of a Roman-themed spa with a small counter-current pool, a sauna, a steam room Many visitors to Germany make Munich their first stop, rightly SO. No big city in Germany is as gemütlich (congenial) as Bavaria’s capital, where the onion and two complicated “experience” showers, as well domes of the Frauenkirche tower over an old quarter peppered with fashionable shops, as an adjacent beauty center. The restaurant and atmospheric beer halls, world-class museums (the Alte Pinakothek houses one of the spa make the Residenz Heinz Winkler a pleasant world’s finest collections of Old Master paintings) and several noteworthy hotels. On this overnight stop, which could be truly luxurious with latest visit, I took the opportunity to check up on two of my longstanding recommendations. Situated within walking distance of the historic center, near the Königsplatz, better-trained staff and some room upgrades. The Charles A92 affords some of the best views in Munich. Our Superior Deluxe room’s step-out balcony overlooked the Old Botanical Garden and the towers of the Frauenkirche las, our fortunes soon took a turn for the beyond. Contemporary rooms feature many sophisticated touches, such as electrical Aworse. Despite the popularity of the so-called outlets in the safe and speakers in the limestone bath. Our accommodations did show “Romantic Road,” a 220-mile string of colorful half- some minor signs of wear, however, including aging carpet, scuffs on the wall and marks in the sink. But I could find no fault with the spa, the centerpiece of which is a large swim- timbered towns between Augsburg and Würzburg, ming pool surrounded by glittering mosaic-tile murals. And DAVVERO serves fine Italian I could not find a property that met my standards. cuisine in a stylish setting, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a terrace for outdoor dining. The best available option is the HOTEL EISENHUT The beautiful pool and memorable views ensure that the hotel remains a worthy choice. in the walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Traditionalists may wish to opt instead for the Mandarin Oriental A96, located in the heart of the old quarter a short walk from the Hofbräuhaus, Marienplatz and which has a central location and terrific views from boutiques of Maximilianstrasse. When we pulled up in our taxi, the assistant chief some of the suites. Regrettably, the extravagantly concierge, Dario Cortellessa, wasted no time unloading our luggage. Later, he offered floral décor in the guest unerring restaurant recommendations and helped procure a replacement suitcase rooms now feels dated, when the handle of a well-traveled bag snapped off. The other staff members we encoun- Heidelberg tered were equally professional. Such a commendable level of service could make up for and the restaurant is rises from the Neckar other flaws, but I could find few to complain about. Our elegant Superior Junior Suite R iver to a sprawling, inconsistent in both had soaring ceilings, parquet floors and art deco-style furnishings in excellent condi- “ food and service. tion. Walking onto the heated floor of the marble bath was a pleasure, as was relaxing half-ruined castle, the venue for a Well-preserved in the deep soaking tub. Only the view left something to be desired; our tall windows Heidelberg also lacks faced a parking garage. I also was disappointed that renovations were under way on the summer festival of rooftop pool, which was closed to guests during our visit. Otherwise, I can’t imagine how theater, opera and a truly distinguished our stay could have been improved. H classical music. hotel. This picturesque city rises from the Neckar River to a sprawling, half-ruined castle, Restaurants and Taverns the venue for a summer festival of theater, opera dining in Munich is a consistent pleasure, whether in Michelin- and classical music performed by the Heidelberg starred restaurants or in one of the many traditional pubs. Here are three contrasting Philharmonic. Its renowned university was founded venues that we particularly enjoyed on our recent trip:

in 1386 and played a leading role in the era wirtshaus — On arrival, I invariably eat first in a casual Wirtshaus (tavern), such as the of humanism and reformation. The 20-room friendly Wirtshaus im Fraunhofer, a short stroll from the old center. The cozy room has an HEIDELBERG SUITES looked like an ideal choice, ornate plaster ceiling, wall-mounted antlers and well-worn wooden tables illuminated by with a riverfront setting across a historic pedestrian candles. Our cheery bilingual waiter served us asparagus cream soup, followed by plates bridge from the old quarter, but after an odd welcome of pork cutlets with bacon-infused roasted potatoes and onion mustard, washed down with a refreshing Maibock (a strong pale lager). Fraunhoferstrasse 9. Tel. (49) 89-266-460. — the front desk employee seemed distinctly fraunhofertheater.de surprised to see us — we discovered that our Superior halali — The more upscale Halali is similarly inviting and congenial. Fortunately, tour- Suite suffered from inattentive housekeeping and ists have yet to discover it, and the clientele appeared to be almost exclusively local. poor maintenance. Cobwebs decorated the living Here, the chefs deftly update classic Bavarian cuisine, accompanied by wines from a list room’s chandelier, the walls were scuffed, and the particularly strong in Austrian selections. I savored an appetizer of eel with a truffled egg wood floor in the bath showed water damage. Our atop fresh whole-grain bread, and a main course of venison in juniper sauce with light spätzle (egg noodles) and red sauerkraut. Schonfeldstrasse 22. Tel. (49) 89-285-909. terrace had a table and chairs with stupendous restaurant-halali.de views, but we never went outside without shoes restaurant konigshof — The formal Restaurant Königshof overlooks the bustling because its floor was filthy. And only at checkout did Karlsplatz. There, we dined on rare mackerel with coriander-crusted avocado, saffron- we learn that the front desk is not staffed 24 hours infused rabbit accompanied by fresh artichokes and spinach, and a crème brûlée spiked a day. Guests need a code to open the door after with an egg liqueur and served with Turkish apricots. The imaginative sommelier poured midnight, a code we never received. Had we stayed several exciting and unusual wines, including a splendid Merlot from Württemberg. Karlsplatz 25. Tel. (49) 89-551-360. koenigshof-hotel.de H out late one evening, we would have been stuck.

October 2013 | hideaway report 3 t was something of a relief, then, to check into Weinromantikhotel Richtershof is the best base for dining Ithe WEINROMANTIKHOTEL RICHTERSHOF, exploring the extraordinarily scenic Moselle Valley. a charming inn at the heart of the Moselle Valley, Gourmet housed within a converted winery. There, the Highlight e ended our journey near Frankfurt, a major guest rooms tend to be small, so reserve the largest Wtransportation hub that most travelers simply accommodation available. Our Junior Suite (108) was The Moselle Valley has an pass through. Although Frankfurt is a high-rise very pleasant, if not luxurious, with handpainted abundance of fine restau- financial capital and home to the European Central rants. A standout of our trip floral wallpaper, blond-wood furnishings and Bank, the city has some surprisingly charming was Rüssel’s Landhaus St. a compact white-tile bath. Four large windows Urban in Naurath Forest, quarters, best explored from the tranquil VILLA overlooked a snippet of the Moselle River and the which serves contempo- KENNEDY. But on this itinerary, we opted to stay hotel’s garden patio, which abutted the Wintergarten rary German cuisine in outside the city in two former mansions. First, a converted mill. Brook Baldachin restaurant. Enclosed by soaring glass we returned to the 58-room SCHLOSSHOTEL trout with cucumbers, sour walls appended to one of the original slate-walled cream, roe and “meadow KRONBERG, the summer castle-mansion of Empress buildings, the latter served an excellent breakfast herbs” tasted memorably Friedrich, daughter of Queen Victoria and mother buffet. The main restaurant, Culinarium R, displayed buttery and smoky; the local of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Many of the towering trees impressive sophistication, presenting creative, Serrig chicken with spring shading the immaculate gardens and golf course vegetables was light seasonal dishes such as a savory spring chicken breast and fresh; and a combina- were planted by visiting dignitaries. As befitting an with morels, spring onions and new potatoes; and tion of veal, venison, white empress, the property has heroically proportioned deliciously tangy beef tartare with pickles, capers asparagus, bacon “purée,” public spaces with black-and-white marble floors, and mustard ice cream. We also enjoyed relaxing egg yolk and lovage sauce stained glass windows, grand fireplaces and wood- in the small spa, and indulging in afternoon coffee delighted with its savory beamed ceilings. Some of the empress’s books and flavors. I was also impressed and cake in the quiet bar. by the cheese cart, which antiques remain in the hotel, including Flemish With its ideal location near the wine-growing contained a fine selection of tapestries and immense gilt-framed oil paintings. center of Bernkastel-Kues, memorable cuisine raw-milk varieties. The formal dining room has been converted into and unfailingly friendly and helpful staff, the landhaus-st-urban.de the restaurant, retaining much of the original sumptuous décor. Those who reserve a suite on the first floor will Moselle Valley Wine Tasting doubtless be delighted with their accommodations,

The spectacularly vertiginous vineyards of the Moselle Valley but we reserved a Deluxe Room, the category most produce some of the world’s great wines. The valley has a dizzying number of tasting commonly requested by subscribers overnighting rooms and other venues in which to sample its famous Rieslings. (Many require appoint- before a flight out of Frankfurt. The room was ments, and advance planning is advisable.) spacious, with a small balcony and beautifully DR. LOOSEN — Our day of wine tasting started with a visit to the riverside mansion of crafted antique desk, but the upholstery on the sofa Dr. Loosen, a wine estate that has been in the same family for more than 200 years. We and armchairs showed wear, and stains marred relaxed in the dining room of the elegant 19th-century summer home with just one other visitor, tasting wines from several of the valley’s most exceptional vineyards. I particularly patches of the gold carpet. Though clean, the beige- enjoyed the austere 2011 Graacher Himmelreich, the fruity 2011 Urziger Würzgarten and tile bath looked hopelessly dated. The food in the the rich 2011 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese. Private tastings on a riverboat can also be restaurant was also hit and miss; a dish of local arranged. St. Johannishof, Bernkastel/Mosel. Tel. (49) 6531-3426. drloosen.de trout tasted clean and fresh, but the mullet was DOCTOR WEINSTUBE — In the nearby half-timbered town of Bernkastel, we strolled up undistinguished. Most frustrating, many of the to the wood-beamed Doctor Weinstube for some sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) with most interesting spaces, including the remarkable buttered spätzle (egg noodles). This Old World restaurant serves wines from the legendary library, are used for private events rather than guest Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard, which reputedly healed the mortally ill Archbishop of Trier in the 14th century. We ordered glasses of the 2011 Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler lounges. Nevertheless, the property’s grandeur and Doctor Spätlese Trocken, which stood up to the sauerbraten admirably. Hebegasse 5, history, and the well-trained staff, provide sufficient Bernkastel-Kues. Tel. (49) 6531-9665-0. doctor-weinstube-bernkastel.de compensation for these drawbacks. MOSEL WEINMUSEUM — After lunch, we crossed the bridge to visit the Mosel Wein- Nearby, another elegant mansion offers the museum, where a modest fee secured access to some 160 local wines in its 500-year-old Schlosshotel Kronberg some competition. Built vaulted cellar. We poured ourselves tastes of whatever caught our eye. Standout Rieslings at the same time as the Schlosshotel, the 22-room included a spicy 2007 Geller-Steffen HCS Qualitätswein, a chalky 2009 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier Scharzhofberger Auslese Trocken and a well-balanced 2010 Markus VILLA ROTHSCHILD KEMPINSKI originally Molitor Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese. The cellar also had a locked case of rare wines belonged to Baron Wilhelm Carl von Rothschild, a ranging from 10 to 80 years old, offered at astonishingly low prices. We came away with wealthy Frankfurt banker tangentially related to the a 1976 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese for $50, which felt tantamount to theft. French winemaking family of the same name. The Cusanusstrasse 2, Bernkastel-Kues. Tel. (49) 6531-4141. moselweinmuseum.de H rambling villa, with a façade of red brick, honey-

4 hideaway report | October 2013 colored stucco and half-timbered gables, remained a classic revisi ted a private residence until 1938, when the family fled the Nazis. After the war, it became the property of the state of Hessen, and it was here that a parliament A Blissful Rural Retreat convened to found West Germany. Despite its rich Ideally located between Rothenburg ob der tauber and heidelberg, history, this much smaller home lacks the imperial the Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe A94 is set amid manicured gardens and is surrounded by wooded parkland. Since my previous visit, this 43-room hideaway has bearing of the Schlosshotel, with more modest public added guest rooms in several new and historic buildings, expanded its golf course and spaces and few original works of art. built a 47,000-square-foot spa. The resort’s restaurants have maintained their high Guests congregate on the terrace overlooking standards, most notably the Gourmet-Restaurant under the helm of Boris Benecke. a broad lawn or in the plush Tizian’s Bar, where we There, the crispy-skinned sea bass with lobster foam and a succulent scallop was memo- rably delicious. We also feasted on a hearty ragout of braised oxtail in the Jägerstube, enjoyed some delicious flammkuchen (flambéed and enjoyed a casual dinner of bratwurst with sauerkraut in the cabin-like Waldschänke. cheese, onion and bacon tart) and currywurst. Those Service in each of these restaurants was unfailingly gracious and professional. staying here shouldn’t Accommodations are divided among several buildings. The contemporary suites miss the opportunity to in the Spa Haus look tempting, as do the more traditional suites in the half-timbered Guests Torhaus (gate house), but I still prefer a suite in the noble Jagdschloss, the early dine in the Restaurant congregate on the 18th-century hunting lodge. Our bright, high-ceilinged lodgings had resolutely tradi- terrace overlooking Villa Rothschild, notable tional furniture and décor, including a maroon-upholstered Victorian-style sofa, a tall “ for its professional, antique writing desk of inlaid wood, and Romantic landscape paintings. a broad lawn or in the plush Tizian’s good-humored service I could easily have spent a week at this distinguished resort, taking a day or two as much as for its food. to enjoy the spa and golf, and using the rest of the time to make excursions into the Bar, where we surrounding Hohenlohe, an idyllic region of groomed pastures, green mountains, steep enjoyed delicious I particularly relished vineyards and picturesque villages. Nearby, the town of Schwäbisch Hall and its two flammkuchen. the amuse bouche of excellent art museums, the Kunsthalle Würth and the Johanniterkirche, also warrant crab and cucumber, and a daylong excursion. Most foreign tourists have yet to discover this tract of exquisite the succulent pork with morels and cauliflower in a countryside, making it an ideal break between crowded Heidelberg and the occasionally kitschy Romantic Road. H sublime Madeira-bacon sauce. The property has no spa or pool, but a complimentary shuttle links the villa with the facilities of the nearby Falkenstein HOTELS AT A GLANCE Grand Kempinski. SCHLOSS ELMAU — LIKE The superlative Luce d’Oro restaurant; dramatic views; grandly proportioned spa; numerous inviting public spaces. DISLIKE The toll to use the private road As in the Schlosshotel, guest rooms on the to the hotel; the lack of electricity converters. GOOD TO KNOW A 40-suite addition is under construction near the Wetterstein Wing, to be completed in July 2014. RATING A95 DELUXE first floor have the tallest ceilings. But to compare KING, $825; JUNIOR SUITE, $950. 82493 ELMAU. TEL. (49) 8823-18-0. SCHLOSS-ELMAU.DE the two properties, we reserved a Deluxe Room RESIDENZ HEINZ WINKLER — LIKE Appealing village-center setting; charming archi- on the second floor, which had memorable views tecture; fine traditional restaurant. DISLIKE Oddly rushed check-in; faux wood floors in our suite; wear on some of the upholstery. GOOD TO KNOW I saw no signs pointing to the hotel; from its dormer windows, sweeping down the when you get to Aschau, drive uphill toward the church steeple. RATING 89 DELUXE MOUNTAIN lawn to Kronberg Castle and the city of Frankfurt VIEW, $375; GARDEN SUITE, $430. KIRCHPLATZ 1, 83229 ASCHAU IM CHIEMGAU. TEL. (49) 8052-1799-0. RESIDENZ-HEINZ-WINKLER.DE beyond. Although smaller than our lodgings at the HOTEL EISENHUT — LIKE Ideal location; historic atmosphere; spacious suites. DISLIKE Schlosshotel, the room came with parquet floors, Competing floral prints on our carpet, sofa and drapes; unhelpful breakfast service; disappointing cuisine. GOOD TO KNOW Certain accommodations are across the street from the main build- gold-hued walls and green toile de Jouy fabric on ings. RATING 89 JUNIOR SUITE, $375; SUITE, $450. HERRNGASSE 3-5/7, 91541 ROTHENBURG OB DER the armchair, bedspread and throw pillows. The TAUBER. TEL. (49) 9861-705-0. EISENHUT.COM shower-only bath had a marble countertop with dual HEIDELBERG SUITES — LIKE Chic contemporary design; magnificent views of the river and Heidelberg. DISLIKE Wear in the suite; sloppy housekeeping; occasionally thoughtless vanities. The cheery accommodations, delightful service. GOOD TO KNOW Heidelberg is an easy day trip from Frankfurt or the Wald & Schlosshotel staff and commendable restaurant make the Villa Friedrichsruhe. RATING 85 SUPERIOR SUITE, $460; PENTHOUSE SUITE, $760. NEUENHEIMER LANDSTRASSE 12, 69120 HEIDELBERG. TEL. (49) 6221-655-65-0. HEIDELBERGSUITES.COM

Rothschild Kempinski an excellent alternative to WEINROMANTIKHOTEL RICHTERSHOF — LIKE Excellent restaurant; friendly service; small the Schlosshotel Kronberg. but relaxing spa; attractive blend of historic and contemporary architecture. DISLIKE Compact size of many accommodations; uninspiring bath. GOOD TO KNOW Though located near the Whichever hotel you choose, book a long Moselle, there are limited river views. RATING A90 Grand Room, $260; Junior Suite, $355. enough stay to enjoy the nearby towns of Kronberg HAUPTSTRASSE 81-83, 54486 MULHEIM/MOSEL. TEL. (49) 6534-948-0. WEINROMANTIKHOTEL.COM and Königstein, both of which have pedestrianized SCHLOSSHOTEL KRONBERG — LIKE Imperial grandeur of public spaces; impressively accommodating staff; manicured grounds and golf course; large rooms. DISLIKE Our room’s historic centers with inviting sidewalk cafés, upscale dated furnishings and bath; hit-and-miss restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW Spa treatments are offered in a separate “Beauty Cottage.” RATING A92 DELUXE ROOM, $360; SUITE, $625. HAINSTRASSE 25, galleries and shops, and hilltop castles. The ruins 61476 KRONBERG. TEL. (49) 6173-701-01. SCHLOSSHOTEL-KRONBERG.DE of Königstein Fortress afford grand panoramas of VILLA ROTHSCHILD KEMPINSKI — LIKE Memorable views; commendable restaurant; the rolling Taunus forest, well-kept villages and the warmly professional service. DISLIKE Cheap décor touches, including artificial orchids and faux oil paintings. GOOD TO KNOW The Vinothek offers private dining for up to four. RATING distant Frankfurt skyline, providing additional proof A94 DELUXE ROOM, $460; THEME ROOM, $550. IM ROTHSCHILDPARK 1, 61462 FRANKFURT. TEL. (49) that charm and beauty can be found throughout 6174-2908-0. KEMPINSKI.COM Germany — even in the suburbs of Frankfurt. H A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com

October 2013 | hideaway report 5 the civilized pleasures of swi tzerland planning New Discoveries in Gstaad and Zurich Swiss With all due respec t to the superior exper tise of Bookshelf the medical profession, one of the activities I’d prescribe to “Switzerland Without a Car,” Anthony Lambert, ensure a long and happy life is a regular trip to Switzerland. Bradt Travel Guides I’ve visited the world’s politest and best-run country on dozens I tend to be skeptical of occasions, but every time I return, I come away thoroughly about guidebooks, which are often written by refreshed and with renewed admiration for Swiss hospitality. people who haven’t set Of late, Switzerland has been a refuge from uncertain financial foot in the places they’re describing because of a times. And as a result, the country has recently seen investment in several spectacular new shoestring budget. There hotel projects, the most notable being The Alpina Gstaad, which debuted last November. are honorable excep- tions, however. The Bradt Having added Gstaad to the itinerary of a recent pine farm table with seating for six. The bedroom Guides are published by European trip, I also decided to spend a few days in came with an extremely comfortable bed with a small British company and distributed in the Zurich. Long a favorite destination of museum and Frette sheets, a leather headboard, bedside lamps on United States by the gallery aficionados, the city has now begun attracting easy-to-use dimmer switches, and a Bang & Olufsen Globe Pequot Press. One attention for its restaurants with the opening of entertainment system. An adjoining pine-paneled of the best in the series new places such as Clouds, atop the 36-story Prime dressing room provided ample built-in closet space, is “Switzerland Without a Car.” Switzerland has Tower, which won a deserved Michelin star this year. while a large, well-lit bath was equipped with a one of the most efficient From Zurich Airport, we arrived in Gstaad and scenic rail systems after a three-hour train journey through soaring in the world, and it really mountains and snow-stilled countryside. Although is possible to travel a glamorous ski resort, with more than 130 miles the country without driving. This book is not of groomed trails, Gstaad still has the character of only packed with useful an unspoiled Alpine village. Of course, it contains information about the a constellation of luxury boutiques, including Swiss rail network, but local institutions such as winter sports outfitter also contains a host of insightful touring sugges- Lorenz Bach, as well as some very stylish bars and tions and is written in a restaurants. But one of the main reasons for its companionable tone. enduring appeal is a wise building code that requires all new construction to respect the local idiom of “Swiss Made,” R. James Breiding, Profile Books traditional chalet architecture. Grand Luxe Suite, The Alpina Gstaad The remarkable pros- The hotel driver greeted us at the station, and separate soaking tub and shower. Having unpacked, perity of Switzerland after a five-minute drive, we pulled up at the 25-room, we enjoyed a perfectly served room service lunch, earns the world’s envy 31-suite Alpina Gstaad. This proved to have a accompanied by a bottle of Fendant du Valais, one of and fascination. Certainly, traditional whitewashed façade with weathered pine my favorite Swiss wines. We then set out to explore. this small, mountainous, landlocked, resource-poor balconies and slate roofs, but a rather James Bond-like The Alpina Lounge & Bar overlooks the hotel’s country was not destined subterranean entryway with a waterfall, evergreen heated outdoor swimming pool, and the surrounding by nature for automatic trees and amber lighting. However, a glimpse of mountains are visible through a wall of floor-to- success. In his fascinating the cozy lobby, with its recycled timber, slate and ceiling windows. Beyond the bar, we discovered the book, R. James Breiding, founder of Naissance Swiss antiques, swiftly set me at ease. Upstairs, hotel’s three dining venues: a branch of New York’s Capital, a Zurich-based our Grand Luxe Suite was an expansive yet homey Megu for Japanese cuisine; Restaurant Sommet, a investment firm, and a space, with paneled walls, a coffered pine ceiling Continental dining room; and the Swiss Stübli, a former correspondent for and a stone chimney surrounding a gas log fire. A wood-paneled space with an Alpine menu featuring The Economist on Swiss chaise longue by one of the windows was upholstered cheese specialties such as fondue and raclette. Down issues, examines the so-called Swiss sonderfall, in herringbone-weave worsted and draped with a a level, the spectacular Six Senses Spa comes with a or “special case,” and crimson alpaca throw; wingback chairs stood before pool, hammam, sauna, chromotherapy suite and a offers some thought- the fire; well-stocked bookshelves lent themselves special salt-paneled room that is apparently beneficial provoking reasons for to happy browsing; and a dining area provided a for those with respiratory problems. its durability.

6 hideaway report | October 2013 For the next few days, we found it difficult travelers. The lounge was furnished with a burled to leave the hotel, aside from occasional skiing Gstaad still walnut rolltop desk, a glass-topped contemporary excursions, because we felt so comfortable and has the character table, suede chairs and a velvet sofa. A pair of French cosseted. One evening, we did venture out for “ of an Alpine village. doors opened onto a stone balcony. The bedroom dinner in the basement restaurant of the Hotel Of course, it came with a bed topped by a feather duvet, and Olden, where, as usual, we ordered the famous also contains a the small bath offered a separate whirlpool tub spaghetti “sciué scuié,” which comes with a simple constellation of and shower. The property has few amenities other but delicious sauce of tomatoes, red pepper, basil luxury boutiques, than an excellent restaurant, which extends onto an and garlic. Otherwise, we ate at home, enjoying including local winter outdoor terrace in summer. There, chef Sebastian superb meals at Megu, as well as an agreeable dinner sports outfitter Pertl serves an appealing menu of regional and Lorenz Bach. at Restaurant Sommet, where both the ravioli with Mediterranean dishes. Overall, if you are in search seasonal mushrooms and the grilled veal chop were outstanding. Throughout our stay, the service was excellent. The front-desk staff displayed the warm Zurich Restaurants and easy good manners of a family-run chalet hotel, Zurichers love classic restaurants, where they go to see and be while a smiling chambermaid routinely greeted me seen and to eat well-prepared Swiss comfort food. The most celebrated example of the by name on my way to the elevator. genre is Kronenhalle, a glamorous meeting place since 1924. Recently, however, the city’s dining scene has become more cosmopolitan and adventurous, as demonstrated at the As is invariably the case at a new hotel, a few following establishments: details require attention. Why not fill the ice bucket mesa — Chef Antonio Colaianni may have Italian roots, but he grew up in Bern, and his in the wet bar every night without waiting to be cooking offers a delicious synthesis of the styles he has mastered on both sides of the asked? And the potato roesti, the iconic Swiss dish Alps. The vegetarian menu, which includes dishes such as ravioli with smoked vege- that is supposed to arrive with a crunchy golden table jus, and potato dumplings with porcini mushrooms, is deservedly renowned, but crust, appeared to have been seared with a torch Colaianni also displays a deft hand with veal. Weinbergstrasse 75. Tel. (41) 43-321-7575. mesa-restaurant.ch like a crème brûlée. Overall, however, The Alpina is an outstanding resort and a notable addition to one munsterhof — In the heart of Old Town, this popular restaurant offers two options: a serious gastronomic restaurant upstairs, and a casual-dining wine bar downstairs of Europe’s most discerning destinations. I have no that serves excellent traditional Swiss dishes. Just down the street from the Widder doubt that it will lure clients from the luxurious but Hotel, it is a great place to try Swiss meat loaf with potato purée on a cold winter day. never especially charming Grand Hotel Park. But The more expensive gastronomic menu runs to dishes such as octopus cannelloni with to compete at the very highest altitude of Gstaad’s vanilla and black garlic sauce, and a fine pork schnitzel. Munsterhof 6. Tel. (41) 44-262-3300. carriage trade, it will have to work assiduously to munsterhof.com match the flawless Old World standards still set clouds — West Zurich, formerly an industrial neighborhood, is rapidly gentrifying and attracting a young, arty crowd. This Michelin-starred restaurant atop the Prime Tower by the Gstaad Palace. That said, The Alpina offers great views and excellent contemporary cuisine, such as Mediterranean-style fish is a world-class contemporary property that offers soup, and Oriental lamb stew with couscous. Maagplatz 5. Tel. (41) 44-404-3000. clouds.ch remarkable comfort and spectacular amenities. We sein — The restaurant of chefs Martin Surbeck and Patricia Lackner in the heart of left with considerable regret. town is known among Zurich’s more demanding gourmets for great creative cooking. The menu changes constantly, but runs to dishes such as herbed risotto with mari- fter the snowbound tranquility of Gstaad, nated duck’s liver, and regularly changing riffs on veal, a local favorite. Schutzengasse 5. AZurich offered a welcome change of pace. The Tel. (41) 44-221-1065. zuerichsein.ch H city’s classic address is, of course, the renowned (and extremely expensive) 120-room Baur au HOTELS AT A GLANCE

Lac. On this occasion, however, I had decided to The alpina GstaaD — LIKE Beautifully decorated rooms; excellent restaurants; obliging staff; first-rate spa. DISLIKE The expense; absence of a library-reading room in the tradition of try two well-regarded boutique hotels. Located in Swiss grand hotels. GOOD TO KNOW The Alpina is very child-friendly and is as good a summer a quiet neighborhood just a few minutes from the destination as a winter one. RATING A94 deluxe room schonried, $1,250; junior sUITE, $2,315. alpinastrasse 23, gstaad. TEL. (41) 33-888-9888. thealpinagstaad.Ch lake, the Alden Luxury Suite Hotel occupies Alden Luxury Suite Hotel — LIKE Exceptionally spacious rooms; comparatively a stone-trimmed, art nouveau townhouse. All 22 of sensible prices. DISLIKE The atmosphere of the hotel can be a little corporate. GOOD TO its light, spacious, high-ceilinged suites comprise KNOW This is an excellent choice for anyone in Zurich for business, since the suites are well- equipped for holding small meetings. RATING 89 junior suite, $525; executive sUITE, $665. two ample rooms — a large sitting room with an Splugenstrasse 2, zurich. TEL. (41) 44-289-9999. alden.Ch

appealing mixture of antique and contemporary widder hotel — LIKE Strong sense of place and Zurich’s history; excellent service; first- furniture, and a separate bedroom. rate restaurants and bar. DISLIKE Wi-Fi connections can be unreliable; the overhead halogen lighting is neither flattering nor suitable for reading. GOOD TO KNOW Meals are served in a Our accommodations had clearly been designed delightful courtyard garden during the summer. RATING A94 deluxe double room, $665; for those on business, but their comfort and junior SUITE, $970. rennweg 7, zurich. TEL. (41) 44-224-2526. widderhotel.Ch A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com convenience make them equally suitable for leisure

October 2013 | hideaway report 7 marble tiles, the bath was small but equipped with Switzerland continued last word a separate tub and shower. of a reasonably priced Zurich address, you might be The Widder Bar is distinguished by an impressive Aman very happy at this well-run and comfortable hotel. selection of Scotch whiskys, plus some terrific Swiss eaux-de-vie, and enjoys great popularity among Update ive minutes from the Alden in the historic local bankers and hedge fund managers, who fill Long-term subscribers to FAugustiner Quarter, the 34-room, 15-suite the red-leather booths and converse beneath the this newsletter will know Widder HOTEL occupies nine landmarked 13th-century beamed ceiling. The hotel’s two dining that my admiration for Amanresorts is virtually historic houses that have been ingeniously joined venues, the formal Widder Restaurant and the Alpine unbounded. Just over 20 to create a cozy contemporary property. (An style Turmstuebli are both excellent. A small but well- years ago, founder Adrian ingenious system of equipped fitness center rounds out the amenities. Zecha invented a formula color coding helps to Although the Widder Hotel will not appeal to that revolutionized the Local bankers concept of a boutique guide guests through and hedge fund all Hideaway Report subscribers — its style is too hideaway. And two managers fill the red- the architectural modern and idiosyncratic — it will nonetheless find decades later, the Aman “ maze.) We were favor with those who prefer smaller properties with style still seems to be at leather booths and GERMANY converse beneath charmed by the hotel distinctive personalities. H the cutting edge of resort from the moment of and hotel design. Given the 13th-century this extraordinary degree GERMANY beamed ceiling. our arrival. Not only of success, the Byzantine Lake was the front desk Constance complexity of the firm’s FRANCE financial history has never service exceptionally gracious, but the lobby area ZURICH 2 Lake ceased to amaze me. At was decorated with sophistication and displayed a Zurich LIECHTENSTEIN the time of writing, the Lake AUSTRIA seamless combination of old and new. Although this BERN Lucerne current owner, Indian Lake is a 21st-century hotel, its appearance is a good deal Neuchâtel real estate company DLF, INTERLAKEN SWITZERLAND more subtle and interesting than the dreary and 0 20 40 MI is attempting to offload GSTAAD 1 0 20 40 KM Lake S L P Amanresorts in order to Geneva A predictable minimalism of a standard Design Hotel. S S I reduce its debt; Zecha Our Junior Suite came with Oriental carpets and W S has expressed interest in ZERMATT Lake medieval frescoes on the whitewashed walls. The GENEVA Lake Como ITALY Maggior e reacquiring his brain- latter were in striking contrast to the re-editions of child, but has so far been iconic modern furniture by designers such as Eileen HOTELS REVIEWED RATING unable to close the deal; Gray, Josef Hoffmann, Le Corbusier and Frank FRANCE 1 The Alpina A94 and no fewer than six 2 Alden Luxury Suite Hotel 89 bidders are now said to Lloyd Wright. Only the trendy halogen lights met Widder Hotel A94 be in competition. While with our disapproval. Done up in black-and-white all this has been going on, Aman Canal Grande From the Travel O ffice debuted in Venice in June, and Amanoi, overlooking Last-Minute Options for the Holidays the South China Sea in Vietnam, opened in around this time of year, the Travel Office’s phones start to ring with calls from people who want to go “some- September. This latest where warm” for the holidays. Alas, many of the most obvious destinations have already sold out. So, rather than property, Amanresorts’ staying at a Caribbean resort this year, why not take a crewed yacht charter instead? Motoring or sailing among the 26th, comprises 31 guest Virgin Islands, or farther south in the Grenadines — alighting on deserted beaches accessible only by boat — can pavilions and five villas be an unforgettable experience. If this sounds daunting, consider a cruise around the sensationally scenic islands and extends over 100 of French Polynesia aboard the Paul Gauguin. Those traveling with families might wish to rent villas. Our trusted acres of lush and hilly partner, Beautiful Places, suggests the four-bedroom “Sol y Sombra,” set on Little Trunk Bay in Virgin Gorda. If a tropical forest. Amanoi hotel is preferable, Cayo Espanto in Belize, a private islet with exquisite seaview villas, and the newly refurbished joins siblings in Thailand, Copacabana Palace both have availability at the time of writing. Christmas in Rio could be fun. Laos, Cambodia, Java and Bali, so it is now possible For personalized trip-planning assistance, contact our travel consultants, who have experienced many recommended properties firsthand. They are passionate about creating unforgettable journeys for our subscribers. Call (800) 375-4685. to undertake an extended tour of Southeast Asia Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for without ever leaving the sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC Amanresorts cocoon. paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes Sounds like a plan to me. to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2013 Andrew Harper LLC, CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Illustrator Melissa Colson

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