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Travels in Romantic Southern Germany

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Travels in Romantic Southern Germany OCTOBER 2013 | OUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com Traveling The world in search of Truly enchan Ting places This Issue 1 Southern Germany 3 Munich Hotels from munich T o The moselle valley 4 Moselle Valley Wines 6 Gstaad and Zurich 7 Restaurants Travels in Romantic 8 Aman Update The Hideaway Report Southern Germany digital edition features more than 75 pages of hidden in The long shadows cas T by Italy and france, germany is rarely The reviews, trip photography and videos. It is available American tourist’s first choice for a European vacation. But those who never make a free to subscribers on German trip miss some of the continent’s great travel experiences. This is the country of Apple’s Newsstand and at AndrewHarper.com. the Brothers Grimm, and when the mist wreaths around the forested hills crowned with crumbling fortresses, the landscape resembles a scene from a fairy tale. It was from this IN The news natural splendor that Romantic painters such as Caspar David Friedrich drew inspiration. Though World War II left deep scars on the urban Completed in 1916 as a refuge for artists and Plettenberg environment, many towns escaped the bombs, leaving intellectuals, the property maintains that heritage Reopens their medieval and Renaissance architecture intact. to this day, regularly inviting authors, actors and On a recent trip to South And those cities that were severely damaged have musicians to speak and perform in its airy concert Africa, I was surprised to (in most cases) been thoughtfully restored. Berlin find uncertainty swirling has emerged as a thriving center of contemporary around one of the coun- art and architecture; Munich retains its elegant Old try’s best-loved resorts. Located 325 miles east World atmosphere; and even devastated Dresden has of Cape Town, The reclaimed its baroque grandeur, with the graceful Plettenberg commands dome of the Frauenkirche once again dominating a glorious view of the the skyline. Today, American visitors will also find Indian Ocean. Having imaginative “New German” cuisine, complemented been closed for some months, the property by a flourishing viticultural tradition. reopened in September. Apparently, the interior ermany can be explored with ease on fast and has been completely efficient trains, or by well-maintained and well- redesigned, and the G Junior Suite, Schloss Elmau hotel now offers many marked roads. We picked up a rental car at Munich more interconnecting Airport and headed south toward the Bavarian hall. A fire in 2005 virtually destroyed two-thirds family rooms. CEO Tony Alps. Just a short drive beyond the city’s southern of the guest rooms, but after a renovation by the Romer-Lee says that the outskirts, the first rugged mountains appeared on original architectural firm, the resort reopened, intention is to provide a “more personalized the horizon, providing a backdrop to tidy villages and along with a new spa facility. level of service and a wildflower-speckled meadows.SCHLOSS ELMAU, This 32,000-square-foot spa is one of Schloss less formal feel.” I look a 135-room resort and spa, stands in a particularly Elmau’s main draws. In addition to a family area forward to seeing what scenic tract of pine-forested countryside at the with a rooftop pool, indoor pool and fitness center, this means in practice. foot of the snow-streaked Wetterstein Mountains. an adults-only section contains an outdoor saltwater For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. pool facing the mountains, a steam room, a sauna, With the exception of a few lodgings in the wing excursions a spacious relaxation lounge and an immense undamaged by fire, the guest rooms are contemporary hammam, reportedly the largest in Europe west in style. Our Junior Suite had red-and-gold Indian- of Istanbul. This atmospheric space, with vaulted Palaces inspired upholstery on the sofa, armchair and ceilings and marble fountains, provides a wonderful of Ludwig II headboard; and a limestone and sandstone bath with setting for treatments, and few remedies are as The famous 19th-centurySWEDEN a soaking tub and separate shower. Attractive views reviving to the jet-lagged traveler as a hammam ritual. Schloss Neuschwanstein extend in all directions from Schloss Elmau, but My well-trained therapist gave me an invigorating draws huge crowds, so ask accommodations facing south have the most direct full-body scrub followed by a relaxing soap massage, your concierge to arrange panoramas of the Wetterstein Mountains. Rooms in a reserved entry. On our in preparation for which I found myself coveredDENMARK by a the main building with mountainview balconies are recent trip, we focused warm blanket of soap bubbles more than a foot thick. instead on the lesser- the most desirable; alternatively, consider staying The property’s gourmet restaurant should known palaces of Linderhof in the adjacent Wetterstein Wing, where lodgings theoretically be another attraction, but we were and Herrenchiemsee. have floor-to-ceiling windows directly facing the surprised to find ourselves alone the night we dined The island palace of mountains (avoid ground-floor rooms, which lack Herrenchiemsee was there. Luce d’Oro’s tasting menu proved to be one never completed, and King privacy). Our westerly view took in the sunset of the finest we had on our entire journey, with Ludwig II spent all of two over the distant Alps, along with a section of the fascinating wine pairings. A 1994 Grüner Veltliner weeks there. Nevertheless, Wetterstein and a swath of the well-kept grounds. Spätlese came to vivid life with an exquisite dish the gilded plaster, half-ton Dotted with pairs of loungers, the lawn eventually crystal chandeliers and of crayfish, and an unusual Sauvignon Blanc from immense hall of mirrors still merges seamlessly with the surrounding forest. POLAND Baden-Württemberg cut right through the savory dazzle with their astound- Both couples and families will find Schloss richness of the “Surprise Egg” course, a slow-cooked ing opulence. An older Elmau appealing, because the resort manages to egg hidden amid asparagus, pork cheeks and morels. German visitor remarked, make children feel welcome without alienating In Fidelio, the resort’s dramatic Italian restaurant, “Ludwig spent his money adult guests in search of tranquility. The property NETHERLANDS well.” Seeing my puzzled I particularly enjoyed the pappardelle with rabbit expression, he explained, makes a convenient base for visiting a host of major ragout and mustard, and perfectly cooked John “The other kings spent sights, including Schloss Neuschwanstein and Dory with tender turnips and creamy black beans. their money on wars.” Schloss Linderhof (palaces built by King Ludwig II), the Wieskirche (a rococo church), the Zugspitze (Germany’s highest mountain) and the frescoed COLOGNE GERMANY houses of Oberammergau. 0 50 100 MI 0 50 100 KM bout two hours to the east is the Chiemsee, a KOBLENZ picturesque lake surrounded by low mountains. MOSELLE A VALLEY 6 FRANKFURT Because of its location halfway between Munich and 5 CZECH Salzburg, we have previously visited the lake and REPUBLIC TRIER WURZBURG the over-the-top island palace of Herrenchiemsee en route between the two cities. This time, we HEIDELBERG 4 3 ROTHENBURG decided to stop and spend a night at the RESIDENZ 7 OB DER TAUBER HEINZ WINKLER. After a speedy check-in, a young e R. Moselle R. hin employee led us to our Garden Suite, said “OK — R BADEN-BADEN enjoy your stay,” and left. It would have been nice FRANCE if he had told us a little about the hotel’s amenities, AUGSBURG Neckar R. given us a quick tour of our accommodations, and FREIBURG MUNICH 8 Chiems ee helped us bring our luggage upstairs. The comfortable Lake SCHLOSS 2 Constance NEUSCHWANSTEIN duplex suite had a color scheme of butter yellow and 1 hunter green, and faced an attractive shared garden SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA courtyard backdropped by verdant mountains. The tile bath was spotless, but some of the upholstery HOTELS REVIEWED RATING 1 Schloss Elmau A95 6 Schlosshotel Kronberg A92 in the living room showed wear, and I didn’t care 2 Residenz Heinz Winkler 89 Villa Rothschild Kempinski A94 for the faux-wood laminate flooring. 3 Hotel Eisenhut 89 7 Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe A94 The cheery, mountainview restaurant served 4 Heidelberg Suites 85 8 The Charles A92 unfussy presentations of well-prepared, top-quality 5 Weinromantikhotel Richtershof A90 Mandarin Oriental A96 ingredients. Standouts included an arugula salad 2 hideaway report | October 2013 accompanied by langoustine tails and local saibling ciTy hoTels (char) roe, and a creamy soup studded with morel tips and crescents of cucumber. Guests can also Munich Lodging Options take advantage of a Roman-themed spa with a small counter-current pool, a sauna, a steam room ManY visitors to GermanY make Munich their first stoP, rightlY SO. No big city in Germany is as gemütlich (congenial) as Bavaria’s capital, where the onion and two complicated “experience” showers, as well domes of the Frauenkirche tower over an old quarter peppered with fashionable shops, as an adjacent beauty center. The restaurant and atmospheric beer halls, world-class museums (the Alte Pinakothek houses one of the spa make the Residenz Heinz Winkler a pleasant world’s finest collections of Old Master paintings) and several noteworthy hotels. On this overnight stop, which could be truly luxurious with latest visit, I took the opportunity to check up on two of my longstanding recommendations. Situated within walking distance of the historic center, near the Königsplatz, better-trained staff and some room upgrades. The Charles A92 affords some of the best views in Munich. Our Superior Deluxe room’s step-out balcony overlooked the Old Botanical Garden and the towers of the Frauenkirche las, our fortunes soon took a turn for the beyond.
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