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See story on page 26 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 ...... 42 Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 74 77 01 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 696 [email protected] Puerto Rico: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik as a magazine Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed S/Y Leaner Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Book Reviews ...... 34 Book Reviews ...... 36 Sky The Caribbean ...... 38 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 39 Readers’ Forum ...... 42 Calendar of Events What’s on My Mind .....43 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index Compass ISSN 1605 - 1998 — Mimi and Phil Roucolle near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS We think of the for intelligent marine life! ...... 32 covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2011 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 8 Business Briefs Eco-News ...... 10 Regatta News...... 11 ...... 30 Meridian Passage Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 32 Island Poets ...... 33 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 33Dolly’s Deep Secrets Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected]

MICHELLE DANIELS nd the nd .. 24 28, 29 Getting Down in Grenada ...... 37…Oildown, that is! Trinidad’s Real Trinidad’s Real Adventure Braving the Guanapo Gorge Commentary .. Pundits ponder problems Click Google Map link below to ﬁ ...14 ...... 12 www.caribbeancompass.com OCTOBER 2011 • NUMBER 193 OCTOBER 2011 • NUMBER

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Notes on her Caribbean Coast Hail Colombia! Signal Flag P 2012 Caribbean Regattas CONSTANCE ELSON CONSTANCE WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED Cover photo: Think tradewinds! It’s time to start planning your next Caribbean voyage. Photo Tim Wright/www.photoaction.com Cover photo: Think tradewinds! It’s time to start planning OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 gang-related crimeinsomeareasofTrinidad.TheSOE,whichhasbeenextended Emergency” (SOE)byPrimeMinisterKamlaPersad-Bissessarinordertodealwith does notextendtoTobago The anchorageatTobago’sStoreBayinAugust.currentcurfewTrinidad &Updates Info

On August21st,Trinidad&Tobagowasplacedundera“limitedStateof Cruisers AdvisedofCoastalZoneCurfewinTrinidad STRICKLAND Force states: few restrictionsatthistime. Grande, Carrera,CrondstadtandtheFiveislands.Tobagoisnotsubjecttoanycur- coastlines oftheislandsTrinidad,Monos,Huevos,Chacachacare,Gaspar of theState. Service, theCustomsandExciseDivisionanyothervesselsinofficialservice Chief ofDefenceStaff. coastal zoneunlessthatpersonhasreceivedasignedpermitorexemptionfromthe a curfewisinplacefrom11:00 until November,hashadlittleimpactonvisitingyachtsinChaguaramasexceptthat —Continuedonnextpage or concernsrelatingtothecoastalzonerestriction:(868)634-3138,634-1476623-0933. information inthisreport. Stickland ofStoreBayMarineServices,andDavidBovellBoatersEnterprisefor comed andwillultimatelyenhancethecruiserexperience.” armed robbery.Johnnotes,“MovesbytheGovernmenttotacklecrimearewel- for visitingyachtstotheisland.Anarresthasbeenreportedincaseof he isindiscussionswiththeTobagoCoastguardtoincreaseprotectionandsupport of theTobagoPoliceService,AssistantCommissionerEdwards,hasannouncedthat armed robberyaboardanotheryachtatEnglishman’sBayinSeptember,thehead mal.” SincetheburglaryaboardtwovisitingyachtsatPlymouthinAugust,andan business asusual.Weareundernocurfew,andcruiserscanenjoytheirvisitnor- get backandforthwithoutincident. the airportduringcurfewhoursreportedgettingeasilyavailablepermitsto support andasenseofreliefbybusinessescruisers”.Cruiserswhohadtogo to hamperinternationalshippingoroffshoreeconomicactivitiesofthecountry.” measures inplacearedesignedtodenythemovementofcriminalelementsandnot hours].” Lieutenant-CommanderR.AlfredoftheT&TCoastGuardemphasizes,“The anchor isdraggingandthemastermayhavetomovehisvessel[duringcurfew anchorages. Iwastoldthatgoodsensewouldprevail,evenifforexampleavessel’s will beawareoftherestrictionsandguidedtoportoranchorindesignated Guard, itwasestablishedthattheyhaverecognizednotallarrivingsailingvessels coastal zonecurfew—thiswillmakelifeeasierforeveryone. craft andfishingvesselsoninternationalpassagesareadvisedtocomplywiththe are allowedtotransitthecoastalzoneduringcurfewhours.Nevertheless,pleasure international passageseitherterminatinginororiginatingfromTrinidadandTobago No personshallpilotavesselbetween11:00 A mediareleasefromCaptainA.AlexanderoftheTrinidad&TobagoDefence Since September14th,thecurfewextendsthreenauticalmilesseawardfrom 2. Vesselsanchoredwithinthethree-milecoastalzonebetween11:00 1. VesselsoftheTrinidadandTobagoDefenceForce(CoastGuard),Police The coastalzonerestrictiondoesnotapplytothefollowingvessels: The T&T Defence Force has established the following hotline numbers for any queries The T&TDefenceForcehasestablishedthefollowinghotlinenumbersforanyqueries Thanks toCaptainA.AlexanderoftheTrinidad&TobagoDefenceForce,John John SticklandofStoreBayMarineServicesinTobagoadds,“Tobagoisopenfor David saysthatthemeasuresbyGovernmentarebeinggreetedwith“wide David BovellofBoatersEnterpriseadds:“InmyconversationwithseniorsattheCoast The ChiefofDefenceStaff,regarding3above,hasdeterminedthatvesselson 3. VesselsexemptedbytheChiefofDefenceStaff. PM to4:00 AM . PM and4:00 AM withinthisthree-mile PM and4:00 AM . OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

WWW.MOORINGS.COM For more information visit www.caribbeanmarineassociation.com or contact CMA or visit www.caribbeanmarineassociation.com For more information of Life’ in the Caribbean BVI Has ‘Best Quality of the world”, the British Virgin Islands have been Known as the “bareboat capital ment of the regional marine industry. The CMA will seek to undertake the implemen- CMA will seek to undertake marine industry. The ment of the regional movement of and facilitation of the easy (www.eseaclear.com) tation of eSeaClear events participation in core marketing member states in the region; yachts between key strategic through alliances with industry; development of policy to benefit the in favour of the regional decision makers lobbying and advocacy to partners; and of the marine industry. development Duffy at [email protected]. President John and Central named the country with the best quality of life in the Caribbean Financial Times Group that American region by fDi Intelligence, the division of The division gave the BVI top provides industry research. The Financial Times’ specialist secondary school honors thanks to the islands’ high life expectancy, employment, and their low rate of crime enrolment and GDP PPP (purchasing power) per capita, and infant mortality. page —Continued on next Continued from previous page Continued from Caribbean Marine Association Identifies Priorities Caribbean Marine Association of (CMA) recognizes its role in the development The Caribbean Marine Association hosted by the Antigua & Barbuda Marine • The CMA Secretariat is currently and contributes to • The CMA recognizes that the marine industry spans sectors be protected and pre- • The CMA endorses that the marine environment is to to increase its visibility and • As the voice of the marine industry, the CMA needs Moliniere Marine Park Fees, Grenada Moliniere Marine the Moliniere pay a nominal user fee at snorkelers are now asked to All divers and [email protected]. For more information contact New Phone Code for St. Maarten — 1-721 — commenced on September 30th. Calls St. Maarten’s new dialling code For more information contact John Stickland in Tobago at [email protected] or (868) in Tobago at [email protected] contact John Stickland For more information the marine industry throughout the Caribbean. CMA currently represents the inter- the marine industry throughout associations in the Caribbean and, by extension, over ests of eight national marine yachts and partner agencies. The CMA has identi- 3,000 marine-related businesses, of its Secretariat as well as that of the fied priorities for the enhancement regional industry: of the CMA recognize the need for continued Association. The Board of Directors and sustainability of the Secretariat through institutional capacity building and appointment of a permanent secretari- recruitment of a full-time administrator of the voice and budget of the CMA; expansion at; membership drive to strengthen Caribbean; and devel- the CMA representation to incorporate the entire maritime opment of an annual fundraising event. seeks to ensure that there the economies of all of its member countries. The CMA nationals in this area. are increased employment opportunities for Caribbean institutions in the Caribbean, Through strategic partnerships with key marine training of training for the industry the CMA will seek to identify specific and relevant areas such as crew training, engine repair and safety courses. of moorings in sensitive served, and will develop programmes regarding placement Environmental lobby- marine areas and education for the protection of mangroves. (TBT) antifouling and advo- ing and advocacy will focus on the banning of Tributyltin boatyards and mari- cacy for the sale and use of alternate products in chandleries, tanks and provision of bilge nas; and ecologically responsible utilization of holding pump-out facilities for yachts. region. By aligning the develop strategic partnerships with key agencies in the governmental organiza- objectives of the CMA with the existing priorities of regional contained within the OECS tions and tourism authorities, and in line with proposals the planning and develop- Common Tourism Policy, the CMA will ensure its role in Marine Park in Grenada. This is the site of the famous underwater sculpture park. the famous underwater sculpture Grenada. This is the site of Marine Park in US$10 annual day, and divers also pay a US$1 and divers US$2 per Snorkelers pay with a the MPA is now allowed only are issued. Scuba diving in fee. Receipts can be done independently. Grenadian dive operator; snorkeling or 1-721 will be processed regularly during a “per- to St. Maarten using either 00-599 will run until September 30th, 2012. missive dialling period” which 390-5408, or David Bovell in Trinidad at [email protected] Bovell in Trinidad at [email protected] 390-5408, or David or (868) 620-0978. — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 more intheAugust27thentryat els.blogspot.com La Cruz,Venezuelaarea. listing —compiledbycruisersforofcompaniesandservicesinthePuerto website, members. attracted closeto200members,andwithin24hourstheTrinidadgrouphadover50 plus someverygoodweatherupdates.WithintwomonthstheGrenadagroup the CoconutTelegraphisanFBextensionofgreatSSBnet, ers communicateandkeepintouch: second andtheCaymanIslandsthird. and snorkelers.”Andofcoursethere’sFoxy’s. and diversemarinelifelivingincrystal-clearwatersthatareaparadisefordivers easy forthemtodiscovertheislandsattheirownpace.Thealsoboastarich find alargeselectionofcrewedandbareboatchartersavailable,whichmakesit ural treasureswithnohigh-risehotels,casinosorcrowds…[yet]sailingenthusiastswill — • Inlastmonth’sEco-Newsweasked,“What’sUpWithAlltheSeaweed?”See • There’sacrisplookatBocasdelToroandColon,Panama • ThePuertoLaCruzBoater’sDirectoryisavailableviatheBahiaRedondaMarina The cruisers’groupsareforlocalinfo,withFAQs,phonenumbersandevents,while and CoconutTelegraph- Tobago Cruisers- Grenada Cruisers- Trinidad Cruisers- • LynnKaakreports:FournewFacebookGroupshavemushroomedtohelpcruis- Cruisers’ Site-ings In thefDiIntelligence“bestqualityoflife”rankingsforregion,Bermudaplaced E. TomásDardetofBVITourismsays,“Theislandsremainanunspoiledhavennat- Continued frompreviouspage 284-494-2400 Cay Electronics: Tortola: 868-634-4272 Dockyard Electrics: 868-667-7158 Engine Tech Co.Ltd: Trinidad &Tobago: 340-775-9912 All PointsMarine: St. Thomas: 599-544-2051 Electec: St. Maarten: 758-450-0552 Martinek: St. Lucia: 340-776-6665 Coral BayMarine: St. John: 340-773-0289 St. CroixMarine: St. Croix: 596-596-787-196 Inboard DieselSvcs: Martinique: 473-439-2049 Enza Marine: 473-443-1667 Grenada Marine: Grenada: 767-448-2705 Dominica MarineCenter: Dominica: 784-457-3114 Caribbean Diesel: Bequia: 268-460-3049 Seagull Yacht Svcs: 268-460-1850 Marine PowerSvcs: Antigua: 284-494-2830 Parts &Power: 284-494-3494 Marine MaintenanceSvcs: www.bahiaredonda.com . www.facebook.com/groups/129897313763488 www.facebook.com/groups/138065706283722 www.facebook.com/groups/132087906871838 www.facebook.com/groups/182779075116058 C001 www.antiguaisland.blogspot.com. . ThePuertoLaCruzBoater’sDirectoryguideisa www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com Reliability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. Durability. Durability. Reliability. http://galivantstrav-

. CHRIS DOYLE (2) DOYLE CHRIS every Monday,Thursday,FridayandSaturdaybya148-seaterBoeing737aircraft four timesaweekbeginningNovember17th.Thenewservicewillbeoperated John F.KennedyInternationalAirportandVCBirdinAntigua Antigua andMiami,hasannouncedthatitwilllaunchservicebetweenNewYork’s unique yachtingdestination. and diversityofthesedestinationsisamajorpartwhatmakesSt.Maartentruly Martin andthesurroundingislandsofSt.Barths,AnguillaSabaasbeauty place mostlyonSt.MaartenbuttheSMMTAwillalsobespotlightingFrench ment, tennistournament,golfandpaddleboardraces.Eventswilltake chandleries, servicecenters,hotels,restaurants,bars,shops,andmore. counts thatwillbeofferedthroughouttheevent,includingdiscountsatmarinas, available ontheevent’swebsite,whereyouwillalsofindacompletelistofdis- November 11thandDecember17th.TheSpotlightSt.Maartencalendarwillsoonbe local St.Maartenresidentstogetmoreinvolvedinthemarinecommunity. ly recognizedexperts,tosetthestageforfunbehadbyall,andencourage opportunity forboatersofalllevelsthroughtrainingseminarshostedbyinternational- made St.MaartenthemarinecapitalofCaribbean,toprovidealearning final weekendwillbecelebratedwithfreeconcerts. on St.Maarten’sDay,November11th,andrunsthroughDecember18th,whenthe boaters, tourists,andlocals.Theeventkicksoffwithliveentertainmentfireworks Maarten, amonth-longeventfocusingoneducation,recreationanddiscountsfor American Airlines,whichcurrentlyservesAntiguawithonedailyflightbetween New FlightsNYtoAntiguathisSeason For moreinformationvisitwww.spotlightstmaarten.comorcontactinfo@smmta.com. Sporting activitiesduringthemonthwillincludeasailingregatta,fishingtourna- Leisure events,sportingactivities,andtrainingseminarswillbescheduledbetween The SMMTAhasdesignedSpotlightSt.Maartentohighlightattributesthathave The St.MaartenMarineTradesAssociation(SMMTA)announcesSpotlight Spotlight on‘MarineCapital’St.Maarten For moreinformationvisitwww.aa.com. Relatives throughouttheCaribbean A FamilyofGeneratorswith . OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 —Continuedonnextpage became thecommontermforanodesbecause theyweresoprevalent. made ofzinc,areadilyavailableandinexpensive metal.Infacttheterm“zincs” nent tobecomethesacrificialanode.Until now,anodesweremostcommonly a marinawillacceleratethedamageto expensivemetalcomponents. these metalpairingswilleventuallycorrode away.Andanystrayelectricalcurrentin board housing,forexample,orcopperplumbing andsteelfittings.Onepartof the preferredchoiceovermorecommon zinc. reviewed, too,astherehavebeennewdevelopments—aluminumisbecoming them lesstoxictothelivingenvironment.Yourchoiceofanodesshouldbe open currentthatwilldestroythebronzeprop. that corrodesonemetaltype.Abronzepropattheendofasteelshaftmakesan ularly inhighlyconductivesaltwater,willactuallycreateasmallelectricalcurrent underwater. We’veknownsincethe1700sthatdifferentmetalsunderwater,partic- up onroutinemaintenanceandacquiredthelatestcruisingguidescharts. son intheCaribbean.You’verepaintedbottom,installedsomenewgear,caught with usthroughthese25years,awarmthank-you. door tothemysteryofbatik. globe. Weinviteyoutovisitourworkshop,andtakealittletourthatwillopenthe years wehavedevelopedauniquestylelovedbycustomersfromalloverthe jewellery, accessories,homedécor,wearableartandCaribbeancraft-art.Overthe with thenew“seldom-seencollections”inourboutique:handmadebatikartistry, orange withblueawningsandwindowsills.Youcan’tmissit.Welovetodelightyou roof. TheArtFabrikbuildinghasanewglamorous“outfit”invividcolour,glowing landmark onGrenada’sYoungStreet—it’saboutiqueandworkshopunderone even gotIslandWaterWorldshirtsandhats! as excitedwewereaboutournewrideandmadeusfeelrightathome.We — we’veactuallyshoppedatallthree)arefantasticandsohelpful.Theywerejust couldn’t bemorepleased.ThestaffhereinGrenada(andSt.MaartenandLucia new two-strokeeight-horsepowerMercuryengine.Wearesothankful,andwe and cametoourrescue. were doomedtoalifeofdinghydodginessuntilIslandWaterWorldcamealong BUSINESS BRIEFS Newlywed cruisersBritannyandScottoftheyacht IWW GrenadaMeansDinghyDelight To combatthiscorrosion,we’veintroduced anewandinexpensivemetalcompo- Any twodifferentmetalswillcausethiscorrosion: asteelproponanaluminumout- There havebeensteadyimprovementstobottompaintinrecentyearsmake We needanodestoprotecttheexpensiveboatandmotormetalpartsthatare Did youremembertoinstallnewanodes? Robert Bullerreports:Fallmonthsmeanmakingfinalpreparationsfortheboatingsea- Aluminum Anodes:ABetterAlternative For moreinformationseeadintheMarketPlacesection,pages43through45. We lovetocelebratewithyou.Totheyachtingcommunityandallwhohavebeen Chris andLiloreport:For1,300weeks(dothemath)ArtFabrikBatikhasbeena Art FabrikofGrenadaCelebrates25Years For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseeadpage48. They madeusadealwecouldn’trefuseonneweight-footCaribeLightand and theirnewride of IWWGrenada Laurien Antoine with salesrep Britanny andScott Rasmus report:Wethoughtwe OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 New Yacht Sales Manager for TMM Tortola TMM Yacht Charters announces For the past 15 years Don held a For more information the addition of Don Pietrykowski as their new Yacht Sales Manager. Don will be working out of TMM’s Tortola base and concentrating on selling new sailing yachts into their charter fleets located in the British Virgin Islands, St. Vincent, and Belize. TMM currently represents Beneteau, Jeanneau, Fountaine Pajot, Privilege, and Hunter yachts. yacht sales position at McMachen Marine, a yacht sales company located near Detroit, Michigan. visit sailtmm.com. 01 90’W approximately four miles south of Castries Harbour or eight o 58.05’N, 61 o Continued from previous page Continued from For more information visit www.marigotbaymarina.com. St. Lucia has been the destination for the granddaddy of ocean sailing rallies, the St. Lucia has been the destination for the granddaddy The Caribbean 1500 is Tortola, BVI is the host for other World Cruising Club rallies. economic uncertainties. Demand for cruising rallies has never been higher, despite 2012, with over 30 The next edition of World ARC starts from St. Lucia in January For more information visit www.worldcruising.com. New Addresses for St. Lucia’s Marina at Marigot Bay The Marina at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia is changing its e-mail addresses and website. But the marina itself hasn’t moved! The entrance channel waypoint is at But recent research has shown that aluminum is a better choice for anodes. is a better choice for has shown that aluminum But recent research better as and they actually perform alloys contain nothing toxic New aluminum our boats and their metal components. Sacrificial In summary, we need to protect from Canada Metals, a global supplier of non- Aluminum anodes are available Metals see ad on page 14. For more information on Canada Cruising Club Caribbean Focus for World Club has supported the Caribbean marine industry For over 20 years World Cruising miles North of Soufriere. The entrance is marked by a large starboard-hand light buoy and the entrance channel through the outer bay is marked with IALA B channel markers. ARC, since 1990. Around 230 boats and over 1,300 sailors, plus another 400 relatives, ARC, since 1990. Around 230 boats and over 1,300 sailors, many staying on for arrive in St. Lucia from the Canary Islands every December, and finish for World ARC, Christmas and extended cruising. St. Lucia is also the start hosts the ARC and the 15-month round-the-world rally. IGY Rodney Bay Marina in Marigot Bay and the World ARC, and the World ARC boats also spend time St George’s, Grenada. Grenadines after making a return Caribbean landfall in bringing around 80 the largest and longest-running sailboat rally in the Americas, to Nanny Cay every boats and around 500 people from Hampton, Virginia the start port for two November for the last 22 years. Nanny Cay Marina is also Cup — which take boats World Cruising Club rallies — ARC Europe and Atlantic Caribbean season. back to Europe and North America at the end of the and Asia are joining Sailors from Russia and eastern European countries, Turkey 2011 fleet is likely to be World Cruising Club rallies in increasing numbers. The ARC of catamarans, and the largest ever and will include a record-breaking number while retaining a core of reg- Caribbean 1500 continues to attract new participants ular “veterans” returning every year. the 15 months of the circum- boats taking the start line, and 40-plus taking part over years has resulted in navigation. Customer demand to join the rally in the “off” World ARC becoming an annual event from 2014. The main contact e-mail for the Marina at Marigot Bay is now manager@marigotbaymarina.com, and the website URL is now www.marigotbaymarina.com. 13 Aluminum anodes contain nothing environmentally threatening, whereas zincs all threatening, whereas contain nothing environmentally Aluminum anodes Sacrificial metal known to be toxic. amounts of cadmium, a heavy contain small parts. But away” to protect other metal are designed to be “eaten anode metals under har- particles on ocean bottoms bits end up in small the zinc and cadmium to our oceans and rivers. and keep adding poisons bors and marinas lighter. And alu- properties and are have better electro-chemical anodes, too. They to change. so there is no reason not are now competitively priced minum anodes but aluminum is now a better choice for performance anodes are always needed, and for our environment. and machined die castings, and subassemblies ferrous metal products, engineered world-leading producer of Martyr brand die cast marine for a variety of industries; a marine autopilot drive systems, and the Intellisteer line anodes, the Octopus line of of remote steering systems. boats annually to the region, and promoting Caribbean by bringing more than 300 sailing to hundreds more. — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 humans to the lower invertebrates — coral. It went from the terrestrial environment humans tothelowerinvertebrates—coral.Itwentfromterrestrialenvironment unusual evolutionarytriplejump,”hesaid,addingthatthebacterium“wentfrom brate,” saidUniversityofGeorgiaprofessorJamesPorter.“Thisisaveryrareand Caribbean Sea. scientists sayabacteriuminuntreatedhumansewageiskillingelkhorncoralthe ment ofBermuda,alsostrivestohelpprotectthespeciesalongitsmigrationroute. Republic. Anotheragreement,signedinJulybetweenStellwagenBankandthegovern- habitats waslaunchedbetweentheStellwagenBankSanctuaryandDominican sanctuary initiativefocusedontrans-boundaryhumpbackwhalesandtheircritical tance ofprotectingcriticalhumpbackwhalehabitatsaspartaregionalcorridor. Marine MammalActionPlanfortheCaribbeanregion,whichrecognizesimpor- tributes totheimplementationofUnitedNationsEnvironmentProgramme’s ment offuturecooperativeagreementswithothercountries.Thepartnershipcon- vation oftheNorthAtlantichumpbackwhalepopulation,aswelltodevelop- programs. NOAAanticipatestherelationshipwillbecrucialtolong-termconser- cation, scientificandmanagementefforts,includingjointresearchmonitoring to theiryoung. south tothewarmerwatersofCaribbeanSeainlatefallmateandgivebirth spring andsummerintherichfeedinggroundsofStellwagenBankbeforeheading sanctuaries providecriticalsupportforthesamepopulationofwhales,whichspend enhancing managementcoordinationeffortsbetweenthetwosanctuaries.Both French Antilles. Sanctuary offtheMassachusettscoastandAgoaMarineMammalin ally morethan3,000milesbetweenNOAA’sStellwagenBankNationalMarine ment tosupporttheprotectionofendangeredhumpbackwhalesthatmigrateannu- “It isthefirsttimeeverthatahumandiseasehasbeenshowntokillaninverte- In thefirstdocumentedcaseofahumanpathogeninfectingmarinespecies,US Bacteria inHumanSewageShowntoKillCoral This newagreementbuildsonaneffortbegunin2006whentheworld’sfirstsister As sistersanctuaries,thetwositeswillexplorenewavenuesforcollaborativeedu- The agreementwillhelpimprovehumpbackwhalerecoveryintheNorthAtlanticby NOAA andFrance’sProtectedAreasAgencyhavesigneda“sistersanctuary”agree- NOAA andFrenchIslandsPartnertoProtectHumpbacks while doingit. grounds, Virgintino willkeepyou entertained to oneoftheworld’smostbeautifulcruising maps, notonlywillthisbookhelpyouget Rich indetailandpackedwithdrawings for thosemakingavoyagetotheCaribbean. At lasthere’sanuptodatein-depthguide From GaryE.Brown,Editor, All At Sea by BruceVan Sant. “A Gentleman’sGuidetoPassagesSouth”, hailing fromN America. A welcomeupdateto for allCaribbeancruisers,notjustthose This isaworthyreadandusefulreference From SueRichards,Editor, Noonsite CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS

HEAR YE, HEAR YE! HEAR YE, — The manyfacetsofCaribbeancruising A THINKINGMAN’SGUIDE by FrankVirgintino hasbeenreleased. TO VOYAGES SOUTH www.freecruisingguide.com It isavailable FREE at: wide embraceoftheentireCaribbean! Kudos to“A Thinking Man’sGuide”forits Antilles aloneare“theCaribbean”. and ofgettingovertheideathatLesser of comprehendingthisvastcruisingarea, four quadrantsisaneatandfunctionalway Caribbean. HisdivisionoftheCaribbeaninto various “entrances”into,andlandfallsin,the jumping-off pointsontheEastCoastto a numberofviableroutesfromvarious beaten paths”(thornyornot)andconsider Virgintino urgescruiserstogetoff “the on thebigpictureisagift. in 1991),andVirgintino’s freshperspective last donebyHartandStonein1976(revised bean —theWHOLECaribbean. This was look atsailingtoandcruisingintheCarib- ference isthatVirgintino takesawide-angled safely andenjoyacruisehere. The bigdif- will needtoknowgettheCaribbean just abouteverythingNorth American sailors Virgintino presentscomprehensiveadviceon Likerespectedauthorsbeforehim,Frank From SallyErdle,Editor, CaribbeanCompass BOCA CHICA,DOMINICANREPUBLIC COMPLIMENTS OFMARINA ZARPAR, THIS BOOKBROUGHT TO YOU www.marinazarpar.com

untreated humansewage effect ofcontaminationby Diseased coralshowingthe JAMES W. PORTER/UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA OF PORTER/UNIVERSITY W. JAMES —Continuedonpage45 long reportingandisavailableinEnglish, FrenchandSpanish. Lab ofOrnithology’seBirdwebsite,www.ebird.com, whichhaseasyonlinegloballat/ time onthewater,”saysDoyle.Thecentral clearinghouseforthedatawillbeCornell less-traveled areas.Andthereareliterally thousandsofusoutthere.” ence. We’retunedintotheenvironment, interestedinthemarineworld,andexplore Diana Doyle.“Thecruisingcommunityis ahugeuntappedresourceforcitizensci- the worldwhoarealsoavidbirdwatchers. December 2011,isbeingorganizedbyagroupoflong-distancemarinersfromaround the studyandconservationofpelagicspecies.Thisfirstevent,scheduled for al birdcountandcontributetheiroceansightingstoacitizen-sciencedatabase for distance boatersnumberinthethousands. spill datahadtofunctionasbaselineinformation. spill occurred,solittlewasknownaboutseabirdsontheGulfofMexicothatearly last frontierofbirdknowledge.”Forexample,whentheBPDeepwaterHorizon oil lives atsea—aresparselydocumented.Oceanbirdinghasbeendescribedas “the Bird Countor“CBC”. sightings inthelongest-runningcitizen-scienceprojectworld:Christmas These areskillsthatcanbebuiltonascareeroptions.” Vincentian childrenreal-lifeskillsthatconnectthemtothemarineenvironment. research relatedcareers.ThisisoneofthereasonsCampOffGridteaches “This countryneedsmanymoremarinebiologistsandprofessionalsinmarine- swim inthesea,sailonseaorgoundertoexploreandtakecareofit. and thiscannotbeaccomplished,hesays,ifyoungVincentiansdonotknowhowto better sustainablymanagethemarineresourcesofSt.Vincent&Grenadines, ment ofSt.Vincent&theGrenadines.HesaysthatVincentiansmustlearnhowto sailing andscubadivinggaveparticipantsahands-ongraspofthenaturalenviron- Wilderness ToursledahiketotherainforestsofSt.Vincent.Chestersayshiking, keep divingtobuildupconfidenceandexperience.” from DiveCanouansaid,“TheywereverycomfortableinthewaterandIhopethey tions andweeagerlyawaittheoutcomefromrestofgroup.”VaughnMartin Kevin RichardsandTaviabothsuccessfullysatthefinalwrittenexamina- was forthetenyoungpeopletoachievePADIOpenWaterDiverCertification. also taughttoscubadivebyoperatorsDiveBequiaandCanouan. and Hot97FM,tenchildrenweretaughttherudimentsofsailingayacht Chester Connellsaysthat,thankstoSunsailSt.Vincent,MooringsCanouan,Digicel at helpingsustaintheenvironmentofSt.Vincent&Grenadines.Organizer ment plants. septic tanksill-suitedfortheregion’sgeographyandgeologywithwastewatertreat- throughout theCaribbeantoupgradetheirwastemanagementfacilities,replacing from humanwaste. exactly: the patterns amongalltheirsamples,theteamfoundonlytwothatmatchedeachother genome differsslightly,eachoneyieldsauniquepatternofbreaks.Comparingthe rium’s genomewhereveraspecificgenesequenceisfound.Becauseeverystrain’s each sample’sgeneticfingerprint,theyaddedanenzymethatbreaksupthebacte- via awastewatertreatmentfacilityinKeyWest,andfromotheranimals.Toobtain years collecting conclusive evidencethatthisstraincauseswhitepox.Theduoandcolleaguesspent POLLY PHILIPSON most recentpaper,publishedonAugust17thinthejournal pointed tosewage,notwildlife,asthesourceofstrainthatinfectedcorals.The College inFlorida,identified according toPorter. and elkhorncoralhasdeclinedbyalmost90percentduringthesametimeperiod, only itsskeleton. coral. Thesescarsappearwherethecoral’slivingtissuehasdisappeared,leaving leagues havedubbed“whitepox”forthewhitescarsthatappearoninfectedelkhorn wound andurinarytractinfections.Incoral,itcausesadiseasePortercol- tions ofourstomachtothefullyoxygenatedconditionsonreef.” to themarineenvironment.Andthenitwentfromanaerobic[lowoxygen]condi- Campers learningtoscubadiveinBequia “Researchandconservationdatabases need reportsfromthoseofuswhospend “If you’reonthewaterandinterestedin nature, thenyoucanhelp,”saysorganizer CBC atSeaisacalltothosewhospendtimeseaestablishworldwideannu- Yet thereisahugeuntappedresourceofwatchkeepersalreadyatsea.Long- But 70percentoftheworldisocean,andpelagicbirds—thosethatspendtheir Every December,thousandsofpeoplelifttheirbinocularsandsubmitbird ‘CBC atSea’CallsonBoaterstoLogSeabirdSightings For moreinformationvisithttp://chesterconnell.com. In addition,instructorShirnanSamueltaughtthestudentstoswimandSailors Polly PhilipsonofDiveBequiasays,“Theculminationthiscareer-creatingproject On September3rd,CampOffTheGridconcludedacareer-creatingprojectdirected Creating Marine-AwareCareersinSVG Sutherland andPorterhopetheirnewevidencewillencouragecommunities Previous workbyPorterandcolleagueKathrynPattersonSutherland,ofRollins The coralcoverintheCaribbeanhasdeclined50percentoverpast15years, In humans,thepathogen Serratia Serratia strainfoundinwhitepox-afflictedcoralandtheonedrawn samplesfromhealthyanddiseasedcorals,humans Serratia marcescens Serratia marcescens isopportunistic,causingrespiratory, asthecauseofwhitepoxand PLoS ONE , provides OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 The organizing authority is What’s different about this and two days for the other yacht classes (Racing- Cruising, Cruising, Open Fun and Multihull). Sailboards and beach cats will compete in separate organized races. the Curaçao Sailing Festival Foundation. The event, to be held November 11th through 13th, will be governed by the rules as defined in the ISAF Racing Rules of Sailing (2009-2012). Registration will be at the Regatta Office (Maritiem Museum) on November 10th.

What’s ‘Real Different’ in November? Curaçao! of the Heineken Start your season here. The organization of the fourth edition For more information see ad on page 12. Hark — Here Comes the ARC! Lots of European yachts are now making their way south and west towards the For more information visit www.worldcruising.com/arc. 8th Edition of la Course de L’Alliance To be held from November 25th through 27th this year, la Course de l’Alliance is an After each race day, participants are able to relax on a beautiful island and plan For more information visit www.coursedelalliance.com. There were five sailing classes: Optimist for 11 years and under; Zoom 8 for 12 to 16There were five sailing classes: Optimist for 11 years and 84 points, Trinidad & On a low-points scoring system, Antigua came first with Lewis of Trinidad, who won The outstanding sailor in the competition was Andrew Antigua’s Rocco Alec Scarabelli of St. Maarten won the Optimist Class over Yacht Club for information Thanks to the Antigua Yacht Club and the St. Maarten

Team Antigua Wins 2011 Caribbean Dinghy Championships Wins 2011 Caribbean Dinghy Team Antigua held in Dinghy Championships originally entered the Caribbean Seven nations racing was re-scheduled to the Friday and Because of the weather forecast, REGATTA NEWS NEWS REGATTA Regatta Curaçao is in full swing, planning three days of racing for the Racing Class Regatta Curaçao is in full swing, planning three days of regatta? It’s based right in the center of town! The Heineken Regatta Village is located at the Kleine Werf (circled on the map) in historic and picturesque Willemstad. The village boasts a great opportunity for non-racers to relax, enjoy food and drinks, have fun with family and friends, and watch the sailing! Canary Islands, preparing for the 2011 Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), which starts on November 20th. This annual transatlantic rally starting in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria has become the largest transocean sailing event in the world, bringing more than 200 yachts per year on a 2,700-nautical-mile passage to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. initiative of Marina Fort Louis and Yacht Club Fort Louis in St. Martin to cement the alliance between St. Martin, St. Maarten, St. Barths and Anguilla. For the eighth con- secutive year, the yacht clubs of these four destinations are organizing a regatta that will start and/or finish at each place. their strategies for the next day’s race. One of the great things about this regatta is the camaraderie and fun that takes place at each location, and the committee looks forward to seeing all participants on shore after the races. Prizegiving will take place on November 27th at the newly completed Marina Fort Louis Waterfront Restaurant. years, and open classes for Laser Radials, Laser Standard and Sport 16. All the boatsyears, and open classes for Laser Radials, Laser Standard which carries a two-man crew.are one-person sailing dinghies except for the Sport 16, and St. Maarten third with Tobago (the previous title holder) second with 93 points combined points were the 120 points. Antigua placed first in only one class, but their time ever that a team from St. lowest, giving them the overall best score. It is the first Maarten secured a place on the CDC podium. for the Olympics and recent- all the Laser Standard races. Lewis is on track to qualify pre-Olympics in the UK, the ly took 32nd place in that very competitive class in the stage for the next sailing Olympics. Omari Schot in the Falcone. Jason Tindale, Barbados, just edged past Antigua’s Arrindell of Trinidad in the Laser Radial Class. Hosea Williams of Antigua held off Kelly Sport 16 Class ahead of Zoom Class, and Stephane Ferron scraped home in the Andy Morrell of the BVI. in this report. For full results visit www.antiguayachtclub.com. Antigua August 19th through 21st, but owing to Hurricane Irene and other factors, to Hurricane Irene and 19th through 21st, but owing Antigua August BVI, St. Antigua & Barbuda, Barbados, competed. These were only five actually six sailors per team. Trinidad & Tobago, each with Maarten, and at the Antigua Yacht Club, led by Karl James, Saturday only, and the organizers the changes. worked extra hard to accommodate Team St. Maarten prepares to take their first-ever CDC podium place Team St. Maarten prepares to take their first-ever CDC OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 2012 GrenadaSailingFestival,providedtheberthispre-booked. 50-percent discountondockageforuptotendaysyachtstakingpartinthe entry feesarereceivedbythefinaldeadline. e-mailed, itwillbeacceptedontheconditionthatoriginaldocumentationand Declaration andAmendmentthatisavailableonthewebsite.Ifanentry fee, andacopyofvalid2011CSA,IRC,OneDesignCertificateorJ/24Class a completedentryform,bye-mail,post,orhand,togetherwiththeappropriate US$200 (US$150iftheysailedGSF2011).Eligibleyachtsmaybeenteredbysending sailed GSF2011).Boatsnotpre-registeredbythatdatewillbechargedafeeof yachtscoring.com/event_registration_email.cfm?eID=540. Grenada SailingFestivalCamper&NicholsonsRacingSeriesonlineatwww. January 27ththrough31standbasedatPortLouisMarina.Youcanenterthe2012 by breakingexistingclassrecords,isittimetofattenupyourskipperinpreparation? Day —January21stanationalholidayhonouringBarbados’firstPrimeMinister. Gay RumandTheBarbadosTourismAuthority,startingonthemorningofErrolBarrow Barbados Race,organizedbytheCruisingClubinassociationwithMount and willfeatureanextendedsocialprogramwiththesignatureMountGayRumRound used bytradingschoonerstoloadandunloadtheirwares. yachts mooredwithinthehistoricinnerbasinofBridgetownCareenage,once Heritage Site.IndependenceSquarewillbethesiteof2012RegattaVillage,with heart oftheisland’scapital,Bridgetown,recentlylistedbyUNESCOasaWorld Regattas for2012 Preview ofSelected Starting Sequence! But wait—there’smore!Camper&NicholsonsPortLouisMarinaisofferinga Boats maypre-registerbyNovember31st,2011atafeeofUS$150(US$100ifthey You cansavemoneybyregisteringnowforGrenadaSailingFestival2012,running January: GrenadaSailingFestival For moreinformationvisitwww.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. See avideoofthe2011eventathttp://youtu.be/j2sy369sVOc. With opportunitiesforyachtstowintheirskipper’sweightinMountGayRumExtraOld The MountGayRumRoundBarbadosRace2012programbeginsonJanuary19th For 2012theorganizersarebringingthisuniqueyachtingspectaclerightinto January: MountGayRumRoundBarbadosRace

—Continuedonnextpage and theafter-racepartiesrock. on thewater(the“15-horsepowerdinghyrace”isfavoriteforgrown-upboys), competition andfriendlyfun.Non-racersenjoyamultitudeofactivitiesashore first timers,localsandvisitors,youngold,allmingleinanenvironmentofkeen own uniquestylewherecatamaransmeetracingandclassicyachts,veterans, 2012. TheSouthGrenadaRegattaisknownasaneventwithlotsofcharacterandits visit www.grenadasailingfestival.com.

For moreinformationseeadonpage11. The fourthAnnualSouthGrenadaRegattawilltakeplaceFebruary23rdto26th, February: SouthGrenadaRegatta For moreinformationontheGrenadaSailingFestival For moreinformationonPortLouisMarinaseeadpage7.

TIM WRIGHT TIM ROBERT DUNKLEY ROBERT OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

LUCY TULLOCH

DAVON BAKER for Round Compass Yachting World Round Antigua Race, Antigua , which completed the race in 4 hours, 37 minutes Yachting World is once again proud to be the sponsor of Antigua Sailing is once again proud to be the sponsor of Antigua Sailing Sojana Round Antigua Race Round Antigua Yachting World For more information visit www.antiguaclassics.com. For more information April: Boat, Cruising, Multihull, Classes for the race will include Maxi and Racing, Sport Yachting World Magazine Organizers are delighted to announce the return of the delighted to announce the Organizers are For more information about the Carriacou Regatta Festival 2012 events will run from July 29th through August 6th. For more information visit www.carriacouregatta.com. December: The Classic Transat to Barbados Barbados has replaced St. Barths as host for the finish of The Classic Transat. The For more information visit www.transatclassic.com. This is just a sample of upcoming Caribbean regattas. Stay tuned to May: West Indies Regatta, St. Barths the Caribbean, the West Promoting and encouraging traditional boatbuilding in For more information visit www.westindiesregatta.com. July: Carriacou Regatta Festival one that yachts are more This is a genuine Caribbean workboat regatta, but it’s event in Carriacou Regatta Festival started in 1965 as a mere boat-racing regattas sponsored by Panerai in North America and Europe. by Panerai in North America regattas sponsored Antigua Classic Yacht Bareboat and Classic. To be held only a few days after to complete their Regatta finishes, it will be an ideal way for many classics day of practice for boats Caribbean racing season and it will provide an excellent of racing. preparing to compete in Antigua Sailing Week’s full week to take on the challenge Week’s Round Antigua Race and encourages yachtsmen time record, currently held by of breaking the existing Round Antigua Race elapsed the Farr-designed 115-foot Antigua Race for Antigua Sailing Week 2012. Different for 2012, however, is that it will Different for 2012, however, for Antigua Sailing Week 2012. Antigua Race Sailing 28th, the day before Antigua race to take place on April be an optional whether or it will be open to all yachts, starts. As an optional race, Week officially from the other will be scored separately Antigua Sailing Week, and not entered in Week races. Antigua Sailing and 43 seconds in 2009. 2012 event is expected to attract approximately 30 classic yachts sailing from Lisbon to Barbados in December 2012, with a finish in Barbados in mid-January 2013. The intention is that all of these classic yachts will arrive in Barbados in time to take part in the Barbados Round The Island Race 2013. Sailing Week, or the Guadeloupe to Antigua Race, visit www.sailingweek.com. Sailing Week, or the Guadeloupe to Antigua Race, visit the May Day weekend. The Indies Regatta is a three-day event held annually over will take place May 4th 2012 celebration of traditional West Indian sailing craft through 7th, out of the port of Gustavia, St. Barths. than welcome to join! summer festival in the Hillsborough Bay. It has now grown to become the biggest weekend each year, it region. Held over the Emancipation (“August Bank Holiday”) activities, ranging from donkey now includes a large number of sporting and cultural on the locally built work- races to beauty pageants. The sailing events focus mainly from Tobago, boats with some 12 different classes of boats and participation Antigua and Carriacou. Grenada, Canouan, Mayreau, Bequia, Petite Martinique, Friday’s Double-Handed The expertly run yacht races are excellent, too, with the Round the Island Race a cruisers’ favorite. monthly Regatta News and Calendars of Events!

WILFRED DEDERER Continued from previous page Continued from For more information visit www.begos.com/easterregatta. April: Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta Advertisers and sponsors are already committing their support for the 25th Annual The ACYR Planning Committee has announced that it will publish an enlarged February: Club Náutico de San Juan’s International Regatta Náutico de San Juan’s International February: Club 11th Club Warm, steady breezes. The Rico. Hot competition. San Juan, Puerto and the from around the Caribbean a hundred competitors “We expect over Juan Bay is always top notch, and social activities are The caliber of racing in San of the Club’s junior sailing program, launched in the The CNSJIR is an outgrowth For more information visit www.nauticodesanjuan.com/sailingprogram/regatta_int.htm. Regatta March: St. Maarten Heineken the premier cable television sports channel ESPN ‘St. Maarten’s Idol’? Last year Regatta will take place March 1st through 4th, 2012 The 32nd St. Maarten Heineken For more information visit www.heinekenregatta.com. March: St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta format and new The St. Croix Yacht Club is pleased to announce an expanded For more information visit www.stcroixyc.com. March: BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival fun. According to eventSeven days of racing, five separate events, and loads of Regatta and Sailing Held annually on the first weekend of April, the BVI Spring For more information visit www.bvispringregatta.org. April: Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta for the Bequia An early-April date for Easter always means a great turn-out Caribbean J/24 Champion), laid-back cruisers, singlehanders, and local sailing craft aficionados from far and near — all converging on “the big little island” for a rousing holiday weekend of fun, both on and off the water. Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, which runs from April 19th to 24th, 2012. Many classic yachts from Europe, the US, Australia and the Caribbean islands have indicated their intention to participate in what is expected to be the most magnificent classic regatta in the Western Atlantic. Shoreside fun during the 25th Regatta will be enhanced with new activities. 64-page commemorative edition programme in honor of the “silver anniversary”, with abundant color photographs from previous regattas as well as dockside imag- es of participating yachts. The Regatta is sponsored by the Italian timepiece company, Panerai, and will serve as the springboard for the other nine classic yachts Náutico de San Juan’s International Regatta (CNSJIR), set for February 3rd through (CNSJIR), set for February Juan’s International Regatta Náutico de San regattas and most competitive dinghy of the Caribbean’s largest 5th, 2012 is one be missed! and one not to Optimists Berríos. Classes offered include director, José “Yoyo” world,” says regatta Sunfish, (4.7, Radial and Standard), and Green Fleets), Lasers (Red, Blue, White Meter. Snipes and 2.4 shops, sights and an international airport with part of the fun. Hotels, restaurants, US and Europe are all near the Club Náutico de San direct flights to the Caribbean, Juan Yacht Club. strengthened in the late 1990s by then-Commodore 1970s by Andres Nevares and Adsuar. The program, directed by Berríos, combines Richard Christiansen and Ricky hands-on sailing experience. It is a combination technical knowledge with practical of the program won fleet and team racing awards that definitely works: graduates Championships and gold and bronze medals at the 2010 at the 2008 Optimist World Games in Mayagüez. Central American and Caribbean in on the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, which was aired made a 30-minute special the Middle East. ESPN and the Regatta Organization the Caribbean, Australia and be of making this a long-term partnership, which would are exploring the possibilities the Regatta and Caribbean sailing in general. a great opportunity for St. Maarten, competitive courses that for some ‘Serious Fun’! The Race Committee is preparing will suit all the different classes. The regatta, which has dates for the 2012 St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta. Ocean Racing Triangle been the first leg of the four-regatta Cape Air Caribbean be moved to the second (CORT) Series, will return to a three-day format and will weekend in March: the 9th through the 11th. in just a little more. This year wedirector, Judy Petz, “Somehow each year we squeeze with Sunsail’s fleet andwill expand the International Yacht Club Challenge raced teams from around theinclude intercollegiate sailing teams among the yacht club March 26th through April 1st. world” in the 2012 BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival, Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival will be celebrating its 41st anniversary. The BVI events, with an average of Festival is now one of the top three Caribbean sailing from overseas. The week 125 yachts per year with 80 percent of the competitors Cup, the Nations Challenge features The Sailing Festival, comprised of The Bitter End Match Racing Championship and The Nanny Cay Cup; plus the Gill BVI International and the BVI Spring Regatta. will be held from April 6th Heineken Easter Regatta, and the 31st annual edition on the 5th. This ever-popu- through 9th, 2012, with registration and skippers’ briefing the title of Southern lar event attracts top racers (including those vying for — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 bad ideatotrytravelthesewatersonatightsched- and especiallyduringJanuaryintoApril.Itisavery hard, especiallyalongthenorthernhalfofcoast modate largenumbersofboats. for thesewatersarefairlysmallandwillnotaccom- recognition thatmanyoftheanchoragesIhavelisted with agracioushospitablepeopleistemperedbythe overlooked cruisinggroundandbecomeacquainted with mixedfeelings.Thedesiretoseeothersenjoyan unknown, andentirelyblissful.SoIwritethisarticle gringo in theCaribbeanwaslike30yearsago:unspoiled,un- at Cholon.Ifeltwasseeingaglimpseofwhatcruising Sapzurro, wesawexactlyoneothersailboatthan us. InamonthtravelingsouthfromCartagenato be optimaltravelingtimes;theywerecertainlygoodfor April andintoMay.These“between-season”timesmay November; travelssouthofSantaMartatookplacein complete travelguidetoColombianwaterssoon. aperitif manently transitionalstate.Iofferthisasatravel governmental regulations,whichseemtobeinaper- anchorages wemissed.Iwillalsosayalittleabout reader tosourcesofinformationforharborsand Our informationiscurrentandIwillalsopointthe trip andprovidedescriptionsanchoringdetails. based onquitelimitedexperience,Iwilldescribeour entire Colombiancoast. not yetareallycomprehensivecruisingguideforthe and arelistedinthesidebaronpage16,butthereis tinely. Goodsetsofnotesexistforseparateportions set ofcruiserswhosailPanamaandColombiarou- der. Theplaceswestoppedatareallwellknowntothe in thenortheasttoSapzurroonPanamanianbor- Colombian CaribbeancoastfromtheGuajiraPeninsula partner andIsailedalmosttheentirelengthof packers frommanycountries. affluent Colombiansandtoadventurousyoungback- Americans andEuropeans,buttomiddle-class hostels, andresortscateringnottowealthyNorth is thatallitscruisingwatersalsohavesmallhotels, mountains andalongthecoast.Aconsequenceofthis enthusiastic touristsintheirowncountry,the appreciated factisthatmodernColombiansare ños coastal inhabitantswhoproudlycallthemselves al cruisingdestinationsandexperiences,its American standards)enjoyed.Colombiaoffersunusu- robust economicgrowtharerelativelywidely(byLatin small clubofFirstWorldnations.Thebenefitsits sonable aspirationsofsoonjoiningLatinAmerica’s dynamic andincrediblybeautifulcountry,withrea- tom oftheGulfUraba. cruisers theoneareathatwarrantscautionisbot- continue butonlyinveryspecificregions;forCaribbean lems withnarcospin-offgangsofformer cal ofotherSouthAmericancountries.Criminalprob- stable and effort, withUSsupport,Colombiaispresentlyvery ors farfromitsshores.Butafteradecadeofserious groups ontheleftandrightthatkeptprudentsail- Colombia definitelyhadmajorproblemswithguerrilla to giveColombiaawideberth”).Inthe1980sand’90s fourth edition2010 ket warningspersist(e.g. • WEATHERANDWIND.Yes,itcanblowreally General Comments Our travelsnorthofSantaMartatookplacein At theriskofseemingpresumptuousinwritingthis Between November2010andMay2011,mysailing Twenty-first centuryColombiaisafascinating, AS arewarm,helpful,friendlyandgracious.Alittle- ed, requiringenterpriseandanopennesstothe —withthehopethatsomeonewillwritea la violenza sail inColombianwaters,andblan- impose asurchargeifyouwishto bad rap.Insurancecompanies a cruisingground,Colombiagets , page398:“…mostcruisersprefer hasbeenreducedtolevelstypi- ThePanamaCruisingGuide, guerrilleros coste- do

DESTINATIONS This areaisnorthofthemainbeach;it’sanicewalkoverridgetogetthere Fun andfunkyTagangaBeachnearSantaMartamakesagoodday-tripdestinationbyboatorbus. custom weatherinformation,suchasprovidedby shore. Witharelaxedscheduleandtheassistanceof and wavesarelowerveryclose(lessthanfivemiles)to anchorage orgetoffshore.Asageneralrule,winds really strongwesterlywind,getintoaprotected interspersed withcalmperiods.Intheeventofa Early fallcanprovideoccasionalstrongwesterlies you canmotorsailinalmostanydirectionchoose. much convectionandlittleornonear-shorewind southwest CaribbeanBasinhaslongperiodswith sailing. FromMaytoSeptemberalmosttheentire at atime,producingmanageable,infactenjoyable, days, thenear-shorewindsletupfortwotofourdays ule. Butallyearlong,atleastonceeverytenor12 byConstanceElson Part One:IslasMonjestoCartagena SAILING THECARIBBEANCOAST OF COLOMBIA —Continuedonnextpage is onlysoyoucanlocatethegeneralareaonamap. dd°mm’ representingdegreesandminutes,thepurpose “ cheerfully willspeakslowlyifyouremindthemto. willing tospeaksomerudimentarySpanish; trip willbemucheasierandmorerewardingifyouare cated people,surprisinglylittleEnglishisspoken.Your and ’90sleftColombiaisolated.Forafairlywelledu- entire Colombiancoast. able tobeentirelynon-heroicwhilecruisingalongthe Chris Parker,itisquitereasonabletoexpectbe Hable despacioporfavor • NAVIGATION: When I give coordinates as four digits, • NAVIGATION:WhenIgivecoordinatesasfourdigits, • LANGUAGE:Thepoliticalproblemsofthe1980s ” isausefulphrasetolearn. costeños OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 .com ). At times the winds blew 40 knots Compass Depending on the wind direction, it is possible for a Currently there are only two marinas open to tran- A great deal of money has been spent on docks, of money has been spent A great deal marina has any cruising knowledge and experience; marina has any cruising knowledge and experience; indeed, it is not clear what role serving the cruising community will play in the long-term plans for the marina. We stayed in the marina four months, from December to April (see article in the February 2011 issue of in the marina, placing real strain on the docks. We were glad to be in safe harbor. few boats to anchor outside the marina, staying clear of the shipping lanes used by the commercial port. Boaters who choose to anchor out should contact the marina to see whether use of a marina dinghy dock will be permitted; government regulations make this simple courtesy complicated. sient cruisers along the entire Caribbean coast of Colombia: Club Náutico in Cartagena and Marina Santa Marta. Santa Marta is by far the nicer of the two. Its excellent security makes it the ideal base for land and air travel and Avianca has several daily flights to Bogotá from the local airport. However for extensive boat repairs or haulout, you should go to Cartagena with its better-developed recreational marine industry. —Continued on next page of the extensive breakwater (11°15.00’N, 74°13.01’W) breakwater (11°15.00’N, of the extensive your arrival to e-mail the office and it is advisable in advance. plans ([email protected]) tie up VHF 68; if no one answers, The marina monitors channel and at port side of the entry at the fuel dock await instructions. are superb. and security, all of which plaza, bathhouse are wel- work directly with cruisers All the staff who ongoing prob- to please. However an coming and eager associated with the lem is that no one presently The rhumb line is a The rhumb line says Cartagena you will zarpe From east (11°20’N, 74°04’W) to The new Marina Santa Marta is phys- says Santa Marta you will be asked to clear in at The Five Bays: International visitors to the park must each pay Santa Marta: Cabo de Vela to Santa Marta: Cabo de Vela A Wayu fisherman tends a net from his dugout canoe at Cabo de Vela. There is an eco-hotel ashore A Wayu fisherman tends a net from his dugout canoe de Santa Marta. Once the sun rises, these peaks usually disappear into mist. It is an amazing sight. west (11°19’N, 74°10’W) these are Cinto, Nenguage, west (11°19’N, 74°10’W) these are Cinto, Nenguage, Guayraca, Chengue and Concha. These steep-sided bays are part of Tayrona National Park and are now (somewhat) regularly visited by the increasingly pro- fessional Coast Guard boats from Santa Marta. If your zarpe Santa Marta before you can return upwind and upcur- rent to stay here. If your 124-mile passage that puts you 25 miles offshore at that puts you 25 miles 124-mile passage town of Rio to anchor at the times. It is possible but it is an gateway to the Guajira, Hacha, the tourist or moderate and only suitable in light open roadstead so that in the tip: if you time your trip conditions. Hot offshore you are about ten miles hour before dawn get to see the 73°50’W, you may sailing along 73°40’N, peaks of the Sierra Nevada 18,000-foot snow-covered be probably be allowed a one-night yellow-flag stop. In either case you will be permitted to stay if you can realistically plead really bad wind and seas. US$17 at park entrances on land, so don’t be outraged if you are asked to pay that. Apparently it is now possible to reach all of these bays by four-wheel-drive vehicle, so if you see a few folks along the shore, they are either indigenous people (usually dressed in traditional white clothing) visiting ancestral holdings or they are tourists who paid an eco-tour operator a lot of money to get there. ically beautiful and gives excellent access to the very likeable city of Santa Marta. Entry is at the north side landscape invites cross-country hiking. This bay offers cross-country hiking. This landscape invites in southwest or west winds. no protection

posadas waypoint waypoint Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot Pizazz • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies in smaller communities Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 sell potatoes, carrots, cab-

waypoint (see Cabo de Vela) tiendas ) that accept international credit It is a good idea to get a reliable tiendas Pizazz Go inside or outside the small island cajeros The Islas Monjes are Venezuelan, but The Islas Monjes are Venezuelan,

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since

Continued from previous page Continued from Cabo de Vela: • PROVISIONS: The only places where you can get fuel The only places where you • PROVISIONS: Coordinates given as six digits, dd°mm.mm’, with as six digits, dd°mm.mm’, Coordinates given Los Monjes: Guajira Peninsula:

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

(12°12.25’N, 72°10.69’W) for an anchorage that normally gets you out of the swells. For really bad weather or a longer stay, move in toward the beach keeping well away from the many small plastic bottles which we later learned mark a complete maze of fishing nets and traps of the local Wayu fishermen. We anchored for three days in nine feet of water at (12°12.00’N, 72°09.38’W) during an offshore trough. There was no protection from the northeast wind but the water was completely calm and the holding good. The local fishermen were friendly and curious and the dark huts along the north shore turned out to be mostly for adventurous eco-tourists. Check out the surprising Posada Jareena. We had no pesos but bought some from Colombian tourists to buy beer with. The desert Cayo del Morro to reach the after dark. We have no first-hand knowledge of the two after dark. We have no first-hand knowledge of the two possible anchorages along the peninsula at Bahia Honda (12°22’N, 71°47’W) and Puerto Bolivar (12°15’N, 71°47’W) but we know sailors who stopped at Bahia Honda for the night and found it adequate. Heading north it would be a very convenient stop. Puerto Bolívar is Colombia’s largest coal-shipping port and cruisers are not encouraged to stop there but friends who entered because of engine problems received assistance and were cordially treated. It is well lit at night, with channel markers. and water dockside are at the marina in Santa Martaand water dockside are at but you can jerry jugand at Club de Pesca in Cartagena, On the southern offshorediesel and water everywhere. in dry season. Bigislands water might be unavailable and in even the tiniestcities have big supermarkets communities, small precision to hundredths of a minute, represent accu- of a minute, represent precision to hundredths about chart for navigation. A warning rate positions electronic of Cartagena many popular software: south to our inaccurate. According charts are extremely we were charts, on several occasions Navionics Gold until mile inland — disconcerting anchored a quarter turn the thing off. we learned to — tinned food, often goodbage, local fresh food in season, Cell phone minutes arebread and — of course — beer. you have a cellphone or 3Guniversally available and if everywhere in Colombia.modem, you can enjoy WiFi ATM machines ( but are uncommon else- cards are available in the cities where. Banks and a few for US dollars. will sell you Colombian pesos are so often used as a we include them because they from the ABCs. The stepping-stone to Colombia is on the south- anchorage (12°21.45’N, 70°54.18’W) You moor to a two-inch west side of Isla Monje del Sur. the sides of an artificially polyester line attached to created bay with room for five or six boats. Unless you are absolutely certain the wind will stay north or east, it is wise to drop a stern anchor in 50 feet of water to prevent your boat winding up on the shore side of the big polyester line (as happened to us). The young Venezuelan soldiers who come to your boat to write down your information are stationed there for three- week stints, are polite and will gratefully accept an offer of cold juice or soda. There is no charge for the mooring. An easy hike to the top of the rock provides a great view. weather forecast before rounding this cape. We stayed weather forecast before rounding this cape. We stayed six to 12 miles offshore in eight-foot regular seas and 17 to 25 knots of wind, diminishing to ten knots later, and sailed the 78 miles directly to Cabo de Vela, arriving at the reliable OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Below: Tagangasunset Above: StatueofSimónBolívaratSantaMarta ber/tashtego “GuidetoSantaMarta”. environs ofSantaMartaseewww.sailblogs.com/mem- — side ofSantaMartaarepopularbeachresorts.They

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Taganga andRodadero: Foraninformalcruiser’sguidetothetownand Continued frompreviouspage Thesetwobaysoneither

Tel: (758)4520299

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. scuba shopthere.Rodadero,alsoknownasGaira, Lonely Planet 74°11.60’W) isfunandfunky,welladvertisedin ride costing60cents).Taganga(11°15.94’N, (a make averynicedayoutingfromSantaMartabyboat zarpe FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE maybeinvolved)orbyland(aten-minutebus butstillverylow-key.Thereisanactive Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] given inthe 75°03.22’W. Thisisalmostamilewestofthewaypoint point forturningtoenterthebayis10°56.07’N, Barranquilla. Comingfromthenorthsafeway- bar isconvenientlylocated16milessouthwestof Magdalena doesn’tmakethatseemveryrealistic. ties forcruisersinBarranquillabuttheformidable Various entrepreneursspeakaboutdevelopingfacili- from SantaMarta.(Re-readmyweatheradviceabove.) ed hadweremainedflexibleaboutourdeparturedate the beginningofabadblowthatwewouldhaveavoid- increasing seastotheriverbuttheyturnedoutbe We remainedaboutninemilesout.attributedthe keeping closewatchforfloatingdebris,cows,etcetera. (74°51’N, 11°06’W)onlytwoorthreemilesoffshore, entered itsoutflow.Someboatscrossmouth an abruptcolorchangetellsyouwhenhave cent ofColombiansliveinitsdrainagebasin.Offshore drains aquarterofthelandmassColombia;66per- cost —[email protected]. ently possibletodosoatRodaderosomewhatlower ern entryportforclearingintoColombiaitisappar- anchorage. WhileSantaMartaisnowthemainnorth- paddle-boaters. BynightonlyRodaderoisa“secure” require firmdiscouragementofyouthfulswimmersor version ofCopacabanaBeach.Bydaybothanchorages ( sightseers, andacoupleofintermittentbeachbars. fully empty,withonlyafewkite-surfers,weekend the wateriscalmandholdinggood.Itwonder- 75°02.12’W. Thereisalmostnowindprotectionbut 12 feetofwater.Weanchoredat10°56.66’N, proceed northalmosttothetopofbayinnine swallowed upanentireisland.Onceinsideyoucan Pizazz ern Caribbeanwaters. and advicebasedontheirexperiencesinsouthwest- Trinidad toPanamawhofreelysharedinformation tashtego. portions ofourtrip:www.sailblogs.com/member/ cruising. are thoughtfulandrelevant:www.BoatUS.com/ information fromavarietyofperspectives. com isagreatresourcewithup-to-datefirsthand trip descriptionsontheweb: on San Blas.ItwasassembledandwrittenupbyRija er extensiveinformationforCartagena,Curaçaoand [email protected]. Caribbean. ContactDickandJaneRogavin, Kenoffel their latesteditioncontactLouraeandRandy resources weusedforourtrip. cruisers whohavesailedthesewaters.Herearethe tion gainedfromvarioussources,especiallyother let yourplansevolveasyoutravel,usinginforma- absence ofacomprehensiveguide,itworksbetterto lay outindetailmonthsbeforeyoudoit.Inthe Punta Hermosa: Magdalena River: Next month,PartTwo:Cartagenaandtheoffshoreislands. SOURCES OFINFORMATION Finally Ithankthemany,manycruisersfrom • Ihavewrittenmoreinformalcommentaryabout • TheBernonessays,especiallyLogs16and17, • Cruisers_Network_Online,www.yahooGroups. There aremanygoodsourcesofinformationand • In2006-7,cruisersbasedinCuraçaoputtogeth- • Logof • Pizazz Sailing thecoastofColombiaisnotatripthatyou S/V QueenofHearts waypoint11°12.10’N,74°13.75’W)isColombia’s , [email protected]. CruisingGuideforCoastofColombia.For Pizazz Jarandeb notes;thesandbarappearstohave Thisquietbaybehindalongsand Thisriveris950mileslongand , 1994-95circumnavigationof , [email protected]. Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18

and roundingWestCaybeforeheadingsouth,soonrealizingthatwewouldhavea we weighedanchorforCanouanandTobagoCays,settingacourseof270degrees can therebeathingsuchasexpensivecheapredwine?Aftercompletingourchores, on landbemoreexpensivethanthedieselboatinmiddleofbay?Andhow our dieseltank.Thestayleftuswiththefollowingquestions:howcandock the evening,wetookastrolltodelistore,andmotoredoffinmorningfill that arehigherthananythingwe’veseen.Sono—wewouldjustnotgothere. of supermarketswouldmostprobablyresultinnon-existentcompetitionandprices the islandhadareputationofbeingextraordinarilyluxurious,andlowfrequency EC$75 forthreedays,andtherewasnoalternativeofanchoring.Therestaurantson other, shookourheads,andsaid“No”.Themooringfeewastoohigh,startingat a wonderfullycharmingexperience. stores, andarguedlovinglywithfruitladiesabouttheprices,whichinitselfcanbe need forexpensivemechanicsandcontractors.Wechasedbargainsatthelocal baking ourownbreadandlearninghowtodoallrepairsonboardeliminatethe ages. Wereallytried,makingcallaloosoupinsteadofgoingtofancyrestaurants, beer exceptathappyhours,noeatingout,expensiveshopping,costlyanchor- Mustique of Musts The We’d saileddowntoBequia,andanchoredinAdmiraltyBayforthenight.During So whentheislandofMustiquecamewithinourcruisinglimits,welookedateach Our planwastosailtheCaribbeanonastrictbudget.Youknowdrill—no DESTINATIONS by LenaPadukova —Continuedonnextpage directly fromBasil’sBar…eventually…afterafewwickedsunsetcocktails! done forthenight.Conveniently,it’spossibletocallthemandmakeareservation for afreeridefromtheharbour,andwillgetyoubacktodinghydockwhenyou’re athletic orhyperactive.Ifyoumakeareservation,theywillsendcartopickup roundings, butitmightfeellikeanunnecessarilylongwalk,unlessyouarevery last oneofthem. met placestoexplore—Basil’sBar,CottonHouse,andFirefly.Westartedwiththe informed us,therewerefourrestaurantsonshore:one“local”eatery,andthreegour- they reallyhaveasmuchluxurytoofferwehadhoped.Astheharbourmaster we werealreadyherethenmightaswellvisittherestaurantsandseewhether mooring fee.Ifeltthatalreadylikedtheisland... shirt, andhepromptlyarrangedallthepapersreceiptsneededtosettle becue onthebeach.Itwasharbourcaptain,dressedinanimmaculatewhite rants (longpants/dress),and—unexpectedlyaninvitationtoalocalvillagebar- smile, someadviceabouttheisland,includingeveningdresscodeforrestau- or whatever.Butthegentlemanfromboathadnothingtoofferexceptacharming whoever wasgoingtooffermeoysters–freshfishfruitsicehikingtourslobster approached byaboat,Iputonmyharshestfacialexpression,readytochaseaway the completeabsenceof“boatboys”isatrueblessing.Whenwewerefinally anchoring andtherode. hook), andit’simperativetosnorkelordivedownchecktheconditionof chafed (likeinStatiaandSaba,manymissingthependanttocatchwithboat be highlyunprofessionallyinstalled(commoninBequiaamongotherislands),or good state,somethingquiteunusualhereintheWindwards.Often,mooringscan rate perdayafterall,especiallyconsideringthatthemooringshereareinavery around. Themooringfeeisgoodforthreedays’stay,whichboilsdowntoadecent so wehopedthatallofthemwouldn’tbetaken,whichwouldhaveforcedustoturn Island andIsledeQuatre. firmly turnedthehelmtoport,andoffwewent,throughpassagebetweenPigeon the answerwasneverspoken,butithunginairlikeaglamorousneonsign.I ible toourportside,withinjustafewmiles.“Shouldwe?”weaskedeachother,and hours ofSintMaarten,couldnothandleit.Weweredefinitelygoing. already strainedbythenewlypurchasedboatequipmentandnumeroushappy is themostexcitingthinginworld,right?).Butholdyourhorses!Ourbudget, show aroundandhaveadrink(ofcoursetheywouldcome;mustthinksailing Bowie, orhaveanyofthemoviestars,singersandmodelsovertoourboatjust bump intoMickJaggerinthesupermarket,orriskanafter-dinnerchatwithDavid and theservicesareaboveanyexpectations.Still,itdidn’tmatterthatwecould the highmooringfeesandflawlessbeaches),thatislandisprivatelyowned, celebrities livingontheisland,andthatislandisanaturereserve(whichexplains guidebook (ChrisDoyle,whatwouldwedowithoutyou?).Wehadreadaboutthe glimpsed Mustiqueonthehorizon. good breezeonournoseandwouldhavetomotoralltheway.That’swhenwe Firefly issituateduphillfromtheharbour,withastunningviewandlushsur- Since allaboard Not onlythemooringsweredifferenthere.AftersailingaroundinWindwards, We knewanchoringisforbiddeninMustique,andtherewereonlyafewmoorings, Or werewe?Welookedateachother,thesilhouetteofMustique,nowclearlyvis- Despite ourintentionsofnotgoingthere,wehadreadalotabouttheislandin S/Y Space verymuchenjoygourmetfood,wedecidedthatsince OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

When we finally left Mustique, season. And, of course, do enjoy the drinks, which are made with fresh fruit, a lot of delicious liquor, and topped off with fresh Grenadian nutmeg. we had stayed for so long that we had to miss out on the Tobago the food, the bar there ranks as one of the top ten in the world, which the owners are very fond of proclaiming. Don’t miss their specials that may include evening barbecue or live music, and which draw quite a crowd even off- After seeing the possible contrast between the different restaurants in Mustique, between the different restaurants in Mustique, After seeing the possible contrast suspected that the food would be above average butAfter trying their lunches, we Cays and head straight to Union Island to clear out for Grenada, as we were picking Cays and head straight to Union Island to clear out for it: this visit to the island, up new crew and needed to get going. But it was worth — and some exceptionally fine with its lovely protected nature, its amazing beaches dining, which was truly a must! approach. I guess that if I approach. I guess resident were a well-to-do someone like of the island, Bill Gates, Kate Moss or would listen then the staff to my feed- more carefully even back, and perhaps for the offer a replacement But I was main course. of the neither a resident island nor a famed celeb- rity, so we just left the main course uneaten, drank up the (rather medi- ocre) wine that the waiter the place. Truly a shame, and hopefully just a day’s had recommended, and left the — I would love to get back there one day and imbibe glitch in the overall quality try; serve “afternoon tea” which I would very much like to ambience once again. They during daylight hours when it’s possible to fully especially since it can be enjoyed the surroundings, as well as the taxi ride there. take pleasure in the view and Bar. It’s hard to miss for the boat folks — it’s located we decided to check out Basil’s and Britannia Bay, protruding over the gentle waves — just by the mooring area of of there during daytime and sunsets, making use we had more than a few drinks way sockets. The staff are eager to serve you in any their free internet and power an to let you know that you’re welcome for dinner, possible, and they don’t forget for a few days but finally could not resist. invitation that we declined changed briskly as the dinner came in. Served with freshlycostly, but our minds were and made with excellently chosen ingredients, the mealbaked bread and gorgeous wine, over pasta. Apart fromwas splendid, the most memorable being the shellfish concoction — and an as a flirt with the Mustique, decorated in amuse-bouche celebration of the good life Bottom right: The streets of set on our table as a welcome set on our table — an made the exciting menu We impression even better. came back to Firefly two days later for another round of their cut. grilled beef of excellent And I confess that the desserts a had us coming back there third time. amuse-bouche Left: A table at the Cotton House top Top right: Basil’s, one of the ten bars in the world Continued from previous page Continued from However, the food was not to match the surroundings. The menu was predomi- However, the food was not to match the surroundings. Just like at all the other places in Mustique, it was not a problem to get a table at Just like at all the other places in Mustique, it was not After having had the pleasant experience at Firefly, we decided to try the CottonAfter having had the pleasant Despite trying to stick with the budget, we had been to many a so-called high-end had been to many a so-called to stick with the budget, we Despite trying Italian theme: the waiter announced “a spicy meatball”. Although impressed by their Italian theme: the waiter announced “a spicy meatball”. was not altered by the appe- initiative, I found it rather tasteless, an impression that but it did not reach the tizers and the main course. We ordered their finest meat, reputation: it was tough and high quality one could expect from a place with this were met with a nonchalant rather tasteless. As we complained to the waiter, we nantly Italian/international, and we were served an the Cotton House. In the beginning of April, right between the US and UK vacation the Cotton House. In the beginning of April, right between that only a few couples (all weeks, only a few guests come to the island, meaning us; most tables were free. cruisers from the look of it) occupied the places around the candles were flickering The linen tablecloth reached all the way down to the floor, thinking that “someone here and the ambience was highly luxurious; I remember knows how to create a dining atmosphere”. House, which seemed to be an even more impressive place. It’s a longer walk, but youHouse, which seemed to be an even more impressive place. and they will send a ride tocan phone them also, from your boat or from Basil’s Bar, one of the fanciest hotels in theget you. Our guidebook stated that the Cotton House is expectations were soaring asCaribbean, and the restaurant would have top chefs. The by the bar for a glass of cham- we entered the magnificent Great Room, and lingered it would have to be here.pagne. If any place could beat that lovely food of Firefly’s, restaurant in the Caribbean, from St. Martin and Tortola to Guadeloupe, and have and Tortola to Guadeloupe, the Caribbean, from St. Martin restaurant in the food, almost service, sometimes with disappointed, often by the mostly been Firefly’s luxuri- met by attentive staff at sommeliers. So when we were always by the that our expec- a fair wine list, we realized dining room, receiving ously crisp balcony cheese snack A warm rosemary and feta be both met and exceeded. tations might — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Main photo:AfairytalesceneatLaarwijk.Inset:Kidswithamonkimonki Tops The Four PartTwo: Suriname: A DestinationforSailors?WhyNot! by PetraandJanWillemVersol Top right:TheKabaleboRiver,oneofthemostbeautifulareasSuriname

DESTINATIONS ALL PHOTOS VERSOL PHOTOS ALL y y y w y —Continuedonnextpage mumbles incantations. soothes thedancers;tofreethemfromtheirtrance,he things cangetoutofhandeasily.Ifnecessaryhe pretending hewasawomangivingbirth. an evenbiggercoconutonhisbellyhelaytheground putting twohalfcoconutsunderneathasbreasts.With cheeky monkeyteasedthebridebywearingadressand “cell phone”,holdingupastickasanantenna.Onevery an earandpretendingtomakeatelephonecallwiththis and didfunnythingssuchasholdingapieceofhuskto watch. Themonkeyshuskedcoconutswiththeirteeth changed intomonkeysandthiswasveryfunnyto and thenchomponlivechickens. gruesome, especiallywhenthedancersbecometigers into monkeys,snakesortigers.Theshowcanberather powers, leadsthedancersintoatrance,changingthem leader, whoobviouslyhascontrolovercertainnatural around accompaniedbyspecialgamelanmusic.Their show. Thedancerscomeonstageashorsesandgallop you canevenexperienceaJavanese splendid oneisFrederiksdorp,where,withabitofluck, some ofwhicharerestoredtotheiroldglory.Themost Suriname River,isdottedwithhistoricplantations, yacht drawingovertwometres. and canals.Someofthemarenavigable,evenfora north, andthereareinnumerableintersectingrivers Suriname hasfourmainriversflowingfromsouthto the sights.ButinSurinamethingsaredifferent. you anchorinabayandtakebusorhirecartosee you ourfourtopreasonstovisitSuriname. P A The leaderkeepshis“monkeys”undercontrolbecause In ourcase—aweddingthedancersluckily The CommewijneRiver,awideside-rivertothe If youwanttoexploreanyislandintheCaribbean, Aboard YourYacht A UniqueJungleExperience djaran kepang new cruisingdestination.InPartTwo,wegive provided ageneralintroductiontothisrelatively art Oneof“Suriname:ADestinationforSailors” is a traditional Javanese (Indonesian) isatraditionalJavanese(Indonesian) djaran kepang . OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 at the Javanese at the Javanese petjil they run frequently but between , a huge red jungle flower), hear and, a huge red jungle flower), AM palulu e yachties’ favourite hangout (giant lizards), and more wildlife right on your path. (giant lizards), and more wildlife you may have to wait a long time. The last bus leaves Paramaribo you may have to wait a long time. The last bus leaves Paramaribo sapacaras PM ; ask the driver. PM ( / g/ ) and 2:00 AM Visit Little Paradise, a botanical garden and guesthouse owned by Erik and Neeta garden and guesthouse owned by Erik and Neeta Visit Little Paradise, a botanical to Laarwijk (check the timetables in Rita’s pub) where The ferries on the jetty go bus is the local bus to town; the fare The PDP (Paramaribo/Domburg/Paramaribo) A good hike from Domburg is to go into La Rencontre. Walk from the main square to Rencontre. Walk from the Domburg is to go into La A good hike from who come to spend their day off. All eateries are open then, firing up barbecues to are open then, firing spend their day off. All eateries who come to caiman-kebabs. Try chicken and chicken- or even serve roasted and tell you all about tropical trees, medicinal plants Kuiper. They are happy to flowers. Little Paradise is located on the Para-Boxelweg, herbs, and exotic fruits and a distance from Domburg. There is no fixed entry fee, but about 30 minutes walking Be sure they are home by calling in advance +597 small donation is welcome. can also arrange that they pick you up in Domburg. Erik 370111. Most probably you on request and the food they serve here is surely the best and Neeta also serve meals in the area. by country life at its best! Have your camera standing you can enjoy Surinamese the views are like scenes from a fairy-tale. upon arrival at the creek, as they leave from town when is 3 SRD (less than one US dollar). There is no schedule; the buses are used by people full and pick you up when they return. Be aware that who work in the city, so from 5:30 to 9:00 market: vegetables topped with a spicy peanut sauce and served in a banana leaf. sauce and served in topped with a spicy peanut market: vegetables small cemeteryRencontre 1e straat), past the into the first dirt road (La the left directly and go left; lock (still functioning!) the bridge over the picturesque at the curve. Cross rubber boots straight into the forest. Wear to the second lock and walk follow the road few troubling you as there might be a and bring mosquito repellent in the wet season you feel as if place is a beauty spot, making won’t spoil your stroll; this there. But this filtering through lush greenery, the sunlight Garden of Eden! Enjoy the you were in the are lots of the leaves, see the flowers (there see the birds, the around 5:00 10:00 page —Continued on next are descen- : small restau- g Marrons warungs villages. marron yg gy Continued from previous page Continued from On weekdays there is not a lot of activity other than Rita’s pub and some locals On weekdays there is not a lot of activity other than Along the Cottica River are plenty of small Along the Cottica River are to Moengo. The Cottica is navigable up The Delights of Domburg coffee and citrus plantation and now a lovely village. Domburg is a former cocoa, From Frederiksdorp you navigate upriver for 13 miles and continue to port on the for 13 miles and continue you navigate upriver From Frederiksdorp Once awoken, they are confused and sometimes ashamed because they can’t sometimes ashamed because they are confused and Once awoken, Domburg’s central square (left) is shaded by mahogany trees and lined with small Javanese restaurants. Rita’s pub (right) is th Domburg’s central square (left) is shaded by mahogany who are liming in the shadows, but on Sundays Domburg is crowded with people who are liming in the shadows, but on Sundays Domburg rants where you can enjoy local food such as fried rice or noodles with chicken and rants where you can enjoy local food such as fried rice than three US dollars per vegetables, or deep-fried cassava with spicy fish for less Leave your dinghy on portion. Rita’s sailors’ pub is the yachties’ favourite hangout. the small beach and join the fun! All the basics are there: ATM, supermarkets, daily fruit and vegetable market, cyber- All the basics are there: ATM, is outpatient clinic, etcetera. The central square shop, barber, service station, trees and lined with Javanese shaded by huge mahogany Cottica River. From here on, you’ll find yourself in the jungle. The Cottica is not wide in the jungle. The Cottica From here on, you’ll find yourself Cottica River. boat is well lit at to anchor. Be sure your and there is plenty of room but it is deep want you to move and perhaps they bauxite freighters come downriver night, because 12 or 16 before www.mas.sr) on VHF (Maritime Authority Suriname, a bit. Inform MAS to expect you. they will warn the freighters and Cottica and you go up Commewijne against their oppressors and ran away into the jungle. dants of slaves who rebelled of to nature and they are famous for their knowledge Nowadays they still live close They are especially good at healing broken bones the medicinal powers of plants. in Paramaribo send their patients to bush doctors) (even some orthopedic surgeons from leaves they also cure gaping wounds in limbs and with their ointments brewed our would have been amputated. We have seen it with which in regular hospitals own eyes and it is fascinating. remember what they’ve done. Perhaps it is all inspired comedy, but anyhow, it is a is all inspired comedy, but they’ve done. Perhaps it remember what and not to be missed. splendid show — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Below: MarronwomenintheremotevillageofGunsi Above: ThebeachatGalibinaturereserve,locatedintheMarowijnedistrict dining ontheCreolespecialty Garden) andWaterkant(Waterfront);aspotfullofatmospherewherewerecommend the interiorareimpressive.Don’tmissFortZeelandia,Palmentuin(PalmTree visitors. ItisthebiggestwoodenbuildinginSouthAmericaandbothfaçade Cathedral (1883)wasrecentlyrestoredandisnow(afternineyears)againopento century isstillcompletelyintact,butthetruestarsarefamouswoodenbuildings. World HeritageSite.Theoriginalandcharacteristicstreetplandatingfromthe17th Heerenstraat. WoodenbuildingsareafeatureofParamaribo Amsterdam (daily),Trinidad(almosteveryday),Curaçao,Belém(Brazil)andMiami. in theinterior.InternationalflightsgofromZanderij(JohanAdolfPengelAirport)to — both DutchandAmericanproducts,transport bybusischeapandyoucanalways Paramaribo isincomparable. singing contestsat6:00 “wild buses”;thesnowconesellers;and the mencarryingbirdcages(thereare Walk aboutintheinnercityandseeallhighlights.TheSts.Petrus&Paulus Suriname isproudofthefactthathistoricinnercityParamariboaUNESCO Paramaribo’s WorldHeritageSite Domestic flightsdepartfromZorgenHoopinParamaribotomorethan30airstrips Stocking upinSurinameisafeast.There areseveralhugesupermarkets,carrying Conspicuous inthestreetsceneare manyhand-paintedadvertisements;the Continued frompreviouspage hhhdddh AM onSundaymorningsIndependence Square). heri . at www.cruiserlog.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suriname. been waitingfor!” nitely wanttocomeSuriname.Oneofthem evenwrote,“Thisisexactlywhatwe’ve had severale-mailsfromsailorswhoasked formoreinformationbecausetheydefi- hotmail.com; theyarehappytobeofassistance. mation ontheirwebsite,www.witteraaf.info, andyoucancontactthematpjwversol@ Witte Raaf for manybrandsandareveryhelpful. the problemyouhave,checkYellowPagesorjustaskaround. electricians, welders,andthelike,butnobodyisreallyspecialized.Sodepending on ing solutionswithoutspendingtoomuchmoney.You’llfindmanyskilfulmechanics, everybody wantstobeofassistance. to haveyourboatlifted.Talkaboutprobleminthesailor’spubandsurely cians, etceteraintownandaroundCEVIHAS,theonlyplacewhereyoumightbeable you outorarrangeamechanic.Alsotherearemanymechanics,welders,electri- is nearParamaribo. might surpriseyouwithwhattheyactuallyhaveinstock.Gobybus,asthestore [597] 481348,e-mail:[email protected]).Don’texpecttoomuchbutstillthey for acoupleofnightsin +597 856-1452)topickyouupbyboatinAtjoni,thebuses’finaldestination.Stay this tripisquiteinexpensive.Arrangewitheco-resortTeiWei’smanagerDennis(tel. marron in theuntouchedandmalaria-freerainforest.Checkitoutonwww.kabalebo.com. beautiful areasofSuriname,deep ous lodgelocatedinoneofthemost Kabalebo NatureResortisaluxuri- [email protected]. to reachhim,trycontactingusat +597 813-9768.Ifyouarenotable Twist at+597404450(home)or thing youwillneverforget.Call be agreatexperienceandsome- more. Yourdayoutwithhimwill locals inthevillages,history,and and wildlife,aboutthewaysof the beach. the leatherbackturtlesnestingon swamps, whereyoucanwatch pirogue throughthebreathtaking you toMatapicafortwodays,ina this afternoon?” “Mom, canIgoplayatBlackberry’s Facebook, comehomeatonce!” modern toys.“Toshibaand name theirchildrenafterthese and thelatesttrendnowisto derful contributiontotheirlives all thisfancystuffasamostwon- the interior.TheCaribsconsider gadgets havefoundtheirwayinto computers andotherelectronic phone coveragenow,andeven thing haschanged:theyhavecell same as50yearsago,butone be ofinterest. nature park)andhewillstopalongthewaywheneverseessomethingthatmight you toasecluded you candiscussyourdestination(s)withTwist,butprobablyhewillproposetaking trust him.Hehaswideexperiencewithsailorsandknowswhattheyenjoy.Ofcourse and everyoneknowshim.ThemostimportantthingaboutTwististhatyoucan importantly, heisaveryhelpfulandfriendlymanwhoknowseverybodyinSuriname, lages. Malariaisnotanissueanymore(butcheckifyouwanttobecertain). consider takingataxibacktoDomburgforaroundUS$12$15. and delightedtohavefoundsuchafinedestinationasSuriname. in thetwinklingofaneye.Thenyou’llbereadytosailagain,refreshed,recharged spent severalmonthshere;ifyou’respendingthehurricaneseason,itwillbegone go ontoNickeriewatchthescarletibisatBigiPan. people liveataveryslowpace.Admirethewell-keptwoodenhomesinTotness,then the riverbyferry.OrrentacaranddrivetoCoronie,laid-backdistrictwhere spend thenightatanchor. watch thedolphinsunderway.Visitfishandshrimpdryersonbeach and theboaconstrictorarekeptincages.Allotheranimalswalkaboutfreely! the leatherbacksandvisitzoo;auniqueexperiencebecauseonlycaimans Galibi. BeaguestinCarib’shome,enjoyfamilylife,andthemeantimewatch the riverwhileenjoyingmassagingrapidsandletvillagerscookforyou. Detailed pilotageinformationonSuriname isavailable Petra says,“Afterourshortarticlewaspublished intheJuneissueofCompass,we Petra andJanWillemVersolhavebeencruising theCaribbeanon40-footketch Tohatsu: Dr.FNassylaan47 Mariner: Dr.SophieRedmondstraat2-12 Evinrude andothers:trytheshopnextdoortoYamahadealer,theycarryparts Yamaha: Wagenwegstraat53 The followingoutboardsuppliersareallinParamaribo: For batteriesandelectricalpartscheckCormoranatBurenstraat9. Remember youareinSouthAmerica,wherepeoplecreativeandcleverfind- In caseofemergency,Holsu(thefishcompanyinDomburg)maybeabletohelp The oneandonlychandlerinSurinameisNVPropellor(Industrieweg18c,tel. There arenotmanyplaceswhereyoucangowithoutatourguide,buttheremote Or exploreonyourown! If youwantsomethingspecial, Twist willtellyouaboutnature You canalsoaskTwisttotake Mr. TwistwillshowyouthelivesandwaysofCaribs,whichareverymuch Take atourwithMr.Twist!Twistisanextremelyexperiencedguidebutmore Tours totheInterior Health careisexcellentinseveralbighospitalstownandpolyclinicsthevil- The listofthingstoseeanddoinSurinameisendless.Beforeyouknowithave Fort Nieuw-Amsterdamisinteresting.Tovisit,rentabikeinParamariboandcross More outingsyoucandoonyourown:gotoBraamspuntwithownboatand Suriname doesnothavemanybeaches,butthemostsplendidoneisfoundin villageofGunsiisonethemanditevenpossibletogotherebybus,so forfiveyearsandalsohaveahomeinSuriname. Youwillfindlotsofinfor- Marine StoresandFacilities marron marron village,anindigenousvillage(Caribs),Brownsberg(a hut,hikeintothejungle(withaguide),bathein and aturtle-shelldrum A Caribchiefplayingaboneflute OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 — shipping onions, tomatoes and lots of

N/M Clívia

by Petra and Jan Willem Versol by Petra and A Side-Step from from A Side-Step Suriname to Brazil to Suriname From Santarém you can fly back to Belém (domestic flights are inexpensive) At Santarém we got on a bus to Alter do Chão, a famous tourist spot nearby. Here The navigation is also interesting: no charts on board! No log or speedometer The landscape is spectacular and the trip very exciting. So were the contacts The landscape is spectacular and the trip very exciting. In Belém we embarked on Touristy? Most of the tourists are Brazilians so you won’t even notice them. TheTouristy? Most of the tourists are Brazilians so you won’t Belém, founded in 1616, is beautiful and ugly at the same time. Horrendous Belém, founded in 1616, is beautiful and ugly at the Belém, in Brazil, is a no-go area for yachts, as the Amazon estuary is infa- Belém, in Brazil, is a no-go area for yachts, as the Amazon and from there, back to Suriname — where you’ll appreciate the peace and quiet even more after busy and bustling Brazil! we hired a local guide, who took us on a tour through the rainforest. This was not a tour on foot, as it normally would be, but by pirogue because the rainforest was completely flooded. So we navigated through the branches and treetops. This was not easy and the longtail outboard engine got stuck frequently. While the skipper was paddling in the front, JW kept control over the rear end of the boat, and in the meantime he also killed an entire ant colony hiding on a bromeliad! Superman! either, and also no GPS (why would you need one if you don’t have a chart?). Actually the passengers were not allowed in the pilothouse, but the helmsman was very pleased with all the interest from our side. Or was he lured by the fact that each time we came around, we brought him a can of Coca-Cola? with the indigenous people in pirogues, most of them kids, who come close to with the indigenous people in pirogues, most of them kids are true daredevils the boat hoping to catch a little something. The older steel hook) and climb on as they hook on at full speed (using a home-made hooking on is actually board to sell mangos, avocados and hearts of palm. The quite risky and the releasing perhaps even more tricky. other stuff, plus 70 passengers — and “cruised” to Santarém. The trip (US$80)other stuff, plus 70 passengers — and “cruised” to Santarém. against a current of twotook three days and nights, making 500 nautical miles for a generous portion)to four knots — and it was great fun! The meals (US$3 and chicken, beef orinvariably consisted of rice, spaghetti, beans and coleslaw, all the passengers’ ham- pork cutlets. The lower deck is reserved for the cargo so with 70 Brazilians (allmocks are crammed on the middle deck. Imagine sleeping But although criminal- only communicating in Portuguese) on 80 square metres! fingers in our luggageity is an issue in Brazil, we never worried about inquisitive deck, where the volume ofduring the moments we spent in the bar on the upper Brazilians just love noise. the TV and/or CD player is pumped up to the max as most important meeting point is the Ver-O-Peso (“Check-The-Weight”) market onmost important meeting point is the Ver-O-Peso (“Check-The-Weight”) and herbal medicines,the waterfront, crammed with small shops selling nuts the place to go for a beer.and many street vendors adding to the melee. This is appreciation of touristsContacts will be many, as Brasileiros love to express their and shake hands. other than fellow countrymen, and they often come over 30-storey apartment buildings, dirty housefronts and broken pavements sit 30-storey apartment buildings, dirty housefronts and façades, streets beside many majestic old buildings, beautifully renovated many neatly kept hooded with mango trees, traditional mosaic pavements, district. parks and old docks transformed into a tasteful entertainment mous for piracy. But if you hop over by plane from Suriname, you can enjoy mous for piracy. But if you hop over by plane from and even take an Amazon this magnificent typical and unspoiled Brazilian city, to Belém four times a cruise, worry free. Surinam Airways runs direct flights sure you have a yellow week for (as of this writing) only US$250 round trip. Be fever vaccination. Above: Passengers’ hammocks on the ferry’s middle deck Bottom: Renovated facades in Belém, founded in 1616 the bugs that look for something to annoy, plus we would be likely to encounter razor grass and a few thorns. We were also advised that the trip could be called off at a moment’s notice if the weather turned nasty. TTHRILLER:HRILLER: We set off down a steep track, which at some time in the past had been tarmac. What was going through my mind (and probably everybody else’s) was that we were going to have to walk back up this. We reached a disused cocoa house and regrouped under a mango tree with ripe fruit and fed off its abundant store. Around this cocoa TTRINIDAD’SRINIDAD’S house there was of course an old cocoa plantation and there are still a few trees left, which Snake pointed out to us. Refreshed, we set off, descend- ing farther into the valley along a barely discern- GGUANAPOUANAPO GGORGEORGE ible trail when the heavens opened. We then knew we were in a rainforest! The trail led into a small watercourse, which with the rain was flowing well. As we followed this stream it then joined on to another larger one — the Guanapo River. This was the start of the gorge. The Gorge The gorge is narrow with high cliffs either side. Our first of many challenges along the route was a waterfall about six feet high and no way of climbing down. We had to jump into the water from the top of the fall. There was no backing out. Luckily the water was warm and the plunge was quite invigorating. The water was deep and we had a short swim to shallower water. It was then that we all appreciated the life jackets, as swimming in the turbulent water with a backpack would have been a little hairy. From here we walked and sometimes swam to the next obstacle, which was a choke with bits of a tree and branches. It was at a narrow point, which made the current quite a bit stronger and not so easy for the non-fluid human form to pass through. So it was a scramble over the branches and into more deep water, trying to avoid getting feet tangled in what was underwater and invisible. Here it was not so much of a swim as just letting yourself be carried along in the current until your feet could touch bottom again. The cliffs are about 100 feet high in places, with beautiful undulating curves that have been carved out by the water over thousands of years. At the top are trees and ferns, vines and creepers, hang- ing almost down to the water. You could almost imagine Johnny Weissmuller swinging overhead trying to see where Jane had got to with the shopping. Every turn of the gorge brought a different challenge and a new beauty. In places the gorge narrows to where you can touch both sides at the same time. It then dawns on you that if there was really heavy rain, this gorge could become impass- able in a very short time through the sheer volume of water. We saw very little wildlife in the gorge and soon I began to wonder what it was that they knew that I didn’t! We did a couple more waterfalls and then came to a narrow bit with the water just cascading through. It was a matter of sitting down in the Above: Main photo: Every turn of the gorge brought water and letting yourself be carried, at some a different challenge and a new beauty speed I might add, through the chute and around the corner. Others who had passed through were OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Right: A ‘motley crew’ of cruisers, with Jesse front and centre out of sight so they were unable to warn followers that there were a few small boulders within the chute that had little respect for bottoms, so most of us finished up with a few bruises on the fleshier part of our anatomy. Angie, how- by Mike Perrin ever, managed to acquire a rip to the back of her shorts and was exposing more of El Lobo, her anatomy she would have wished. Prepared as we were, nobody had a sewing kit As cruisers from the UK, my wife, Pat, and I look upon our boat, as a to alleviate her embarrassment. In true British style she carried on regardless. portable home from which we can explore the countries we choose. We enjoy hiking, and in Trinidad we consulted intrepid taxi and tour operator Jesse James. He sug- gested visiting the Guanapo Gorge. He had done it before and thought it would live up to our expectation. I announced the idea over the cruisers’ net for a couple of days and in a short time we had a full complement for Jesse’s bus. Those who took part were David and Angie from Hurrah, Neville and Glenys on Alba, Ian and Jackie on Blackthorn Lady, Joe on Peregrine, Rixzene from Pogeyan, Gerwald and Corinna on Bellatrix and of course Pat and yours truly — a motley crew ranging from the almost geriatric to the slightly younger and more supple. We also liased with Laurence Pierre, alias Snakeman (or Snake to his friends), who was to be our guide. Snake recommended that we wear long pants and sleeves, and bring a packed lunch, bug repellent, a change of dry clothes and a life jacket. This last item could have been a problem, as the inflatable type we use for sailing would not fare well in the conditions we were going to encounter. Help came from our friend Peter on Passagemaker, an old traditional motorsailer, aboard which he inherited numerous items including a multitude of buoyancy aids. Getting There So the date was set and after a 0600 hours pick-up from our various marinas, off we went, heading for Arima where we met Snake at one of Jesse’s favourite ‘doubles’ stops where Jesse then treated us all to one of his favourite snacks. The gang was augmented with a few more in a Toyota Hilux, two of whom were Jesse’s brothers, Daniel and Davy. Their friends Billy and Mark completed the team. Once fed and watered we set off into the Northern Range, climbing all the time. As we progressed, the area became less densely populated and the roads worsened. We met little traffic Our next obstacle was yet another waterfall, with a large tree trunk forming part and by the time our convoy reached the start point of our adventure there were few of it. Here Snake tied a rope to the tree and Jesse was the first down. It was about houses. We parked at what would be classed as a viewpoint in a tourist area, with a a ten-foot drop but the water was too shallow to just jump down, so in turn we low- view across the valley to the mountains on the other side. ered ourselves down the rope and Jesse was there to assist before another swim Here, Snake gave us his pep and safety talk and explained what we were about along a twisty passage before we could touch bottom again. Jesse had to avert his to subject ourselves to! He also reminded us why we should cover ourselves when eyes as Angie came down the rope! walking. We would be walking through a rainforest that does have snakes, and anything you can put between them and you can only be beneficial. There are also —Continued on next page OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 feet tangled in what Left: Trying to avoid getting was underwater and invisible Trinidad is an island of vast natural Trinidad is an island of vast and is a keen hiker himself. He can be hiker himself. He can be and is a keen 68 or on his contacted on VHF channel webpage www.membersonlymaxitaxi. com. wildlife that beauty. It has a range of where to go. can be seen if you know Snake who There are guides such as of the island have intimate knowledge depending and there is much to discover to on your own ability and willingness would not really see the things that you to normally see. The opportunities and explore here are almost boundless endless. the photographic possibilities season here This is our third hurricane where I and I have seen no other island and haul- would sooner be for shelter we have out as well as for the friends to leave but made. We are always sorry we return. it feels like home when Thank you, Trinidad. Jesse James owns and runs a maxi taxi service and is well tuned in to the needs service and is well tuned in and runs a maxi taxi Jesse James owns and the variety of tours and trips. He also has a section with pages of advice for has a section with pages of tours and trips. He also and the variety Snake, these if you are not going with in Trinidad and even hikers and campers notes. worth reading and taking pages are well he is an all- name of a famous bandit, Despite inheriting the of visiting cruisers. seriously. His he takes our problems and a good friend to cruisers; round good guy or hauled all visiting cruisers are moored which is where office is in Chaguaramas, as outings to areas, movie nights as well trips to the shopping out. He has regular like the above also accommodating to trips spots. However he is the popular tourist

AM Continued from previous page Continued from Once at the top, it was into some dry clothes and the lads, bless ’em, had cooked Getting Back Up Now we had the steep climb back up the track to the ‘main’ road, the bit I was We were already wet so the rain didn’t bother us much. We were just a few yards We were already wet so the rain didn’t bother us much. Farther Downstream headed off farther down- Our trip was by no means over. After a short rest we During lunch we were treated to an aerial display of some Blue Emperor butter- During lunch we were treated to an aerial display of some A Respite bank where stretch and a wide swim/drift we came to a shallower After a longer Things to Know Laurence Pierre, a.k.a. Snake, runs a small company called Hike Seekers and his We said our goodbyes to Snake and the lads, who we now know were there to up some pilau rice with chicken and a salad, enough to satisfy our hunger and top up our energy needs. I learned later that Daniel and Mark had been up at 4:00 not looking forward to. We trudged up the hill at a really slow pace, some of us slower than others, and when we were about halfway Daniel came down the hill in the Hilux to collect the stragglers, of which I was one. We jumped on board as he was still going down hill and hung our legs over the back. ‘Jumped’ may not be the correct word here, it was more like a mammoth effort to heave our aching bodies up that massive three feet into the back of the truck. I couldn’t turn my body to be able to see just how many had climbed aboard, as I was well jammed up against another body. (It felt female, but gentlemanly conduct prevents me from revealing which part of which body gave me some comfort on that ride back up the hill.) I reckon if anyone else needed a ride, we would have had to start another layer of bodies! However when we turned to go up, the hill was so steep that Daniel had to put on some power and Ian and I nearly shot out of the back. We had to stop the truck and raise the tailgate before the bumpy ride back up the hill. It wasn’t com- fortable, but it was a case of “de t’ird class ridin’ better dan de firs’ class walkin”! now from the entrance back into the jungle and the trek back to our transport. now from the entrance back into the jungle and the all could follow, so that the Snake led us up through the forest at a pace that we group was always together without stragglers. This was not a well-used path and difficult to follow, but Snake knows his job and successfully led us along a route he knew. After a long steady climb back up through the trees and undergrowth we eventually arrived back at the cocoa house and the mango tree and a short, well- earned rest. stream with the gorge now behind us. We waded along the watercourse to another stream with the gorge now behind us. We waded along which was also deep. So small waterfall and then into another narrow section, to the next set of shallows. another swim and drift along at a little more sedate pace gorge with a semblance We then came to a tributary emerging from another small was a small waterfall and of a small island at its mouth. Snake indicated that there so the local lads went in a pool at its base, but the current issuing was fairly swift, As soon as this was rigged, with a rope to assist those who wanted to have a look. shouted to those who had the heavens opened with a heavy downpour. Snake then through this narrow gap started in to come back out. Any extra water coming passage back out extremely would have made the stay inside untenable and the dangerous. flies. These are butterflies with a wingspan of six or seven inches, with brown flies. These are butterflies with a wingspan of six or topsides that literally spar- undersides to their wings but beautiful iridescent blue display as part of their com- kle in the sun. It seemed a privilege to witness their rather ornate dragon flies paratively short life. The only other life we saw were some have been other eyes upon with either red or blue bodies, but I felt that there must the gorge. us from the canopies of the trees as we plunged through trip, Snake indicated a secret spot where he had hidden the keys to his car in the trip, Snake indicated a secret spot where he had hidden occurred, we reckon that we case of an emergency. However if such an emergency we were! would be hard pushed to even find his car from where we stopped for lunch. This was when we found out whether our attempts at water- found out whether our attempts lunch. This was when we we stopped for sandwiches not. There were a few soggy were successful or proofing our packages our experience sustenance. We discussed enjoyed reasonably dry but most of us had taken all a real adventure. Snake unanimous that this was so far and it was the start of the a sane world. However, at that could be expected in the precautions — webpage, www.hikeseekers.com, will give you an idea of the schedule he arranges make sure we all got through, and boarded Jesse’s bus for the journey home. Even though it was a bit of a bumpy ride back down the mountain, I think we were all pleased just to be sitting down. We had a short stop where we all enjoyed a cold beer at a roadside shop and we were back at our respective marinas by about 1730 hours. A truly memorable day and one we will talk about for years to come. to prepare our meal and believe me we really appreciated their effort. OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 November, youmustbesureoftheweatherforecast,atleastasfarnortheast rent isfarworsethanunpleasant.IfyouchoosetodepartlateOctoberearly tered andinsuchacasecrossingtheGulfStreamwithwindopposingcur- problem. TheGulfStreamiswiderfarthernorthbutalsohaslessvelocity. With asouthwestprevailingwind,crossingtheGulfStreamshouldnotpresent farther northofNewYorkyoudepartfrom,themoreclose-hauledwillbetack. This isoneoftherisksthisroute. course hurricanesdonotknowtheyhaveaseasonanditispossibletobeunlucky. late OctobertoearlyNovember,whichshouldbejustafterhurricaneseason.Of distances withintheAtlanticOcean. miles, andit’sanother850nauticalmilestotheBVI.Bothlegsrepresentsignificant be considered. Eastern Caribbeanisnotthedestinationyouhaveinmind,thisarouteto plished theeastingthatisrequiredtoarriveinEasternCaribbean.If and isarouteforstoutvesselseasonedcrew. is thefarthestoffshoreroutethatNorthAmericansailorscantaketoCaribbean really atripsouth;itisverymucheast!Makingyoureastingthechallenge. Bermuda’s is64°45’W).ThevoyagefromtheEastCoastto“theCaribbean”not North Americaitis.TortolaisduesouthofBermuda(Tortola’slongitude64°50’W; really beatrip Virgin IslandsandtheendingpointGrenadaorTrinidad. Islands). Thetraditionalstartingpointfora“Caribbeancruise”isTortola,British to “theCaribbean”theymeantheLesserAntilles(i.e.LeewardandWindward EACH If youchooseafalldeparture,thereareearlywinterstormsthatcanbeencoun- If youtakethisrouteinMayorJune,theprevailingwindwillbesouthwest.The The besttimetomakethispassageisMayJune,priorhurricaneseason,or The distancefromtheNewYorkareatoBermudaisalittlemorethan600nautical The advantageofthisrouteisthatonceyouarriveatBermuda,haveaccom- One caneitherstopatBermudaoruseitasawaypointtoturnsouth.Thisroute Route 1:OffshoretoBermuda • Harborhoppingandisland(“TheThornlessPath”) • Offshoretothetradewinds(viaalternateroutes) • OffshoretoBermuda There arethreemainroutestotheCaribbeanfromNorthAmerica: If theVirginIslandsareyourlandfallinCaribbeanthentrip“south”will The IntendedVoyage,theRoutes,Challenge However, whenmostcruisingauthorsandyachtrallyorganizersspeakofsailing Part One:ComingtotheCaribbean B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] CARIBBEAN VOYAGING FUEL •OILWATERICE Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar east The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: ! LookatBermudaonthemapandnotehowfareastofmainland from theEastCoast Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique waited for,forsomanyyears.Freeatlast! It isthedreamtrip:tripwehaveplannedforand America ventureoffontheirtrip“southtotheCaribbean”. year duringthefall,manycruisingsailorsfromNorth by FrankVirgintino can causeroughconditions,andatgaleforceveryconditions. possible toalsohavethewindgonorthwest.Anorthwestabove15knots event; howevertheNorthAtlanticisknownforitsextremelyhighandroughseas. storms areconcerned.Therereallyisnooceaninwhichastormnotchallenging —Continuedonnextpage and approximately100milesoffshore,youwillpickupthetradewinds. Head IcantakeasoutheastheadingoffshoretocrosstheGulfStream.Onceacross I willneedtopickupthetradewindsbymorethan150nauticalmiles.FromHilton Cape Hatteras,eitherthroughtheICWoronoutside,Ihavereduceddistance me onemorechancetofurtherprepareandfine-tunetheboat.Bycomingsouthof Hilton Headandthestoptheregives 100 milessouthofCharleston.Ilike Hilton Head,SouthCarolina—about go evenfarthersouthanddepartfrom Eastern Caribbean. choice —ifyouwanttoarriveinthe Islands coursecanbeanexcellent south”, makinglandfallintheVirgin to wherethebuttermeltsandturn City, NorthCarolina.The“headoffshore off pointsareBeaufortandMorehead northeasterly. Otherpopularjumping- November), theprevailingtradesare ture point(verylateOctobertoearly Caribbean 1500rallyusesthisdepar- ing. Atthetimeofyearwhen to Tortolaisaneast-by-southeasthead- from themouthofChesapeakeBay not beassignificant. the amountofeastingthatyoumakewill the tradesblowingeasttonortheastand passage inthefall,youwillencounter tend easttosoutheast.Ifyoumakethe when youfindthetradewindstheywill spring, goeastasquicklyyoucan,

● ● ● ● ● ● TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT Keep inmindthatwhileanor’easterisanAtlanticstorm,asfallapproachesit When Idothistrip,alwayspreferto The routemapshowsthatthecourse the Tradewinds Route 2:Offshoreto If youundertakethispassageinthe

New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft u nder take thi spa ssag ein the www.carriacouboatyard.com f hbtBigt f th g i B t b th t dfi VHF: [email protected] Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 CARRIACOU OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 h li b R ii D th df () p g t , available free at www.freecruisingguide.com or through Amazon , available free at www.freecruisingguide.com or through A Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: the many facets of A Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyages South: the many The negative aspect of the trip is that it is just plain tedious. Day after day you face just plain tedious. Day after of the trip is that it is The negative aspect of Hispaniola. of the north coast help mitigate the extreme roughness Northers can Moreover, when you have fin- You really have to ask your- by about 200 nautical The Windward Passage route is longer than going direct disadvantages. The one thatEach route to the Caribbean has its advantages and the Quadrants. Next month: Caribbean Voyaging, Part Two: Sailing Through see the author’s recently For an in-depth discussion of voyaging to the Caribbean, strong easterly winds and strong seas. Van Sant’s methods provide for ways to mini- Sant’s methods provide winds and strong seas. Van strong easterly excellent — pro- most of his suggestions are of a windward path and mize the effects he suggests is he suggests. Doing what understand them and do what vided that you in particular he on weather patterns and as he relies a great deal not always easy, a device to head fall and early winter as that come south during the uses northers that you have wrong with that, except they stall the tradewinds. Nothing east, because they end. when they start and when the northers, to know to be able to time coasts I the roughest and most dangerous of Hispaniola is one of The north coast no one really good stop (Luperon/Puerto Plata), with have ever sailed. It has only tenable during most of the tradewind season. Some other stops that are normally Atlantic (north) coast of Hispaniola at night in a calm believe you can navigate the mat- that may be found. But no my ter how calm the night, in to mind it is poor seamanship hug a lee coast, for if weather the comes up you will have devil to pay! ished transiting the north coast you of the Dominican Republic, have to cross the Mona Passage. to There are many strategies cross the Mona but I cannot imagine why anyone would dan- choose to cross this very gerous passage. the self, when you arrive in area of Acklins Island or perhaps Mayaguana in the Bahamas, if it is really necessary to go farther east. Instead, you can free your sheets and use the trades to give you a quick passage south to the Windward Passage. Once through you will turn to port and head east along the south coast of Hispaniola. It is much nicer and much safer. After Ile- à-Vache, Haiti, at the southwest corner of Hispaniola, you will arrive to Isla Beata, Dominican Republic. From here Republic you have many all the way to Isla Saona at the east end of the Dominican pristine. And when you make safe harbors and anchorages that are beautiful and Mona Passage. the crossing to Puerto Rico you are south of the dangerous and rushing. One of the miles. However, we are cruising and enjoying, not racing is “rhumb-line cruising”. The greatest impediments to a successful cruise anywhere line but not necessarily the shortest distance between two points may be a straight harbor hopped and then best routing. If you cruise through the Bahamas, having sheets and come through island hopped, I strongly recommend that you free your the Windward Passage. how much time you have,you will pick will depend on a variety of factors, including much offshore experience youthe time of the year, what kind of sailing you favor, how the capacity of the crew. have, the type of boat and equipment you will utilize, and released book, Caribbean Cruising in Kindle format. S A

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In his book Route 3: Harbor Hopping and Island Hopping southward (via the inlandOn this route, one follows the coast of North America This route entails offshore sailing, but much less than the other offshore routes. It This route entails offshore sailing, but much less than You can use the island shadow and the katabatic wind to sail eastward after sun- You can use the island shadow and the katabatic wind A greater phenomenon is katabatic wind. The air at the top of an island mountain A greater phenomenon is katabatic wind. The air at the There are a number of phenomena that occur at night off the coast of the Caribbean There are a number of phenomena that occur at night Route 2: Offshore to the Tradewinds, Modified to the Tradewinds, Route 2: Offshore You in the north central Caribbean. Windward Passage you arrive Transiting the Once you pick up the trades (at about 22 to 25 degrees north latitude), you can 22 to 25 degrees north latitude), up the trades (at about Once you pick Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 waterway or on the outside) to approximately Miami, Florida. From Miami you crosswaterway or on the outside) to approximately Miami, to the Turks & Caicos. Fromthe Gulf Stream and island hop through the Bahamas Dominican Republic and thenthe Turks & Caicos one heads for the north shore of the end of the DR. Once there, youeastward along the north coast to arrive at the eastern side of Puerto Rico. pass through the Mona Passage to arrive at the south also offers more options should unexpected weather or damage to the boat occur. also offers more options should unexpected weather or Windward to spend a great deal of The benefit of the route is that it gives one an opportunity time in the Bahamas and the Turks & Caicos. set. At the very least, if you cannot sail because these winds are too light, you will set. At the very least, if you cannot sail because these from the tradewinds. be able to motorsail eastward with little, if any, resistance range cools when the sun goes down and becomes denser and thus heavier than the range cools when the sun goes down and becomes denser air begins to “slide” down the air over the sea. As a result, the denser and heavier wind have a stalling effect on mountainside after sunset. Not only does the katabatic breeze. the tradewinds but many times will create an offshore islands. The most dramatic occur off the coast of those islands with the highest islands. The most dramatic occur off the coast of those caused by the difference mountain ranges. One phenomenon is “island shadow”, of the air. As heat rises between the temperature of an island and the temperature a “shadow” of calmer winds. off the island at the end of the day, the lee side develops The larger the landmass of the island, the larger the shadow. shoreline is filled with beautiful anchorages (see the free shoreline is filled with beautiful anchorages (see the free Guide is larger) and one that has the the second largest island in the Caribbean (only Cuba in the tradewinds to make highest mountain range, you can use the nighttime drop Virgin Islands. your easting in light offshore winds all the way to the can follow the south shore of Hispaniola to make easting to the Lesser Antilles. The to make easting to the Lesser south shore of Hispaniola can follow the The is within the Caribbean Sea and is not a lee shore. south shore of Hispaniola follow them to the Eastern Caribbean, or you can shorten your offshore passage and you can shorten your offshore the Eastern Caribbean, or follow them to Haiti. This is the between Cuba and head for the Windward Passage turn south and will be east to Given that the tradewinds taking three to four days. logical route, of the Bahamas down the eastern side will reach or broad reach northeast, you Sea. you will enter the Caribbean Windward Passage, where directly for the — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 physically, AllenandKateBarryofthe knife, andwhilethecouplewasnotseriouslyhurt There wasastruggle,theregun, AND WOLVES SHEPHERDS SHEEP, Changes andChallenges: arrived inacolorful“local”boatatabout10:00 their boatwasrobbedofcashbytwomaskedmenwho was anincidentintheTobagoCays.Acoupleaboard Caribbean Compass the Wolvespossiblyhavebeensame? bothers meaboutthisstory:couldtheShepherdsand the burglaryonvessel,thereissomethingelsethat been stolen. broken intotoandcashotherpersonalitemshad their boatstheyfoundthatoneofthehadbeen bill wassettled.Whenthegroupfinallyreturnedto would notletthegroupgototheirdinghiesuntil barbecue demandedUS$25perperson.Somelocals Joseph wasnottobefoundandthe“owner”of maintain aholidaymood.Whenitwastimetoleave, enough foodbutthegroupoverlookeditandtriedto come them.Thedinnerwaspoorandtherenot group wenttothebeachandJosephwastherewel- on thebeachforUS$20perperson.At7:00 made anagreementwiththegrouptohaveabarbecue local fellownamedJosephcameouttotheboatsand Grenadines onJune2nd.Accordingtothereport,a 32 peopleanchoredatSaltWhistleBayinthe which reportedthatfourcatamaranswithagroupof residing atthetopoftheirfoodchain. — predatorsthathavenooftheirown, daily bread. to takecareofusbecauseweprovidethemwiththeir we cruise.Theyhavearesponsibilityto“shepherd”us: herds wouldbethosethatserveourinterestswhere flocks ofsheep.Inthecasecruisingboats,shep- as well. as itaffectscruisers,weneedtolearnbeshrewd sheep. Howevergivenrisingcrimearoundtheworld, “clean wake.”Inthissenseweareasinnocent rience differentcultures.Mostofusliketoleavea to sailourboatsandvisitdifferentcountriesexpe- doves. —Matthew10:16 Therefore beasshrewdsnakesandinnocent in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialist brokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloyds andam business for47years.Ihavedeveloped arapport The CaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNetaswellthe Aside fromthehikeonpriceofbarbecueand Recently Ireadareportonwww.noonsite.com, Wolves aresocialpredators.Theyapexpredators A shepherdisapersonwhotends,feedsorguards As cruisers,mostofushavenomotivesotherthan I amsendingyououtlikesheepamongwolves. I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance e-mail: [email protected] “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood www.street-iolaire.com by FrankVirgintino Myclaimssettlementrecord Insurance Marine reportedthatonJuly2ndthere cannot bematched. S/V Mendocino PM the PM . Quest the groupoffourthatweremurderedaboard the kidnapped intheRedSeaareaand particular for as weallare,forthecruisingsailorswho havebeen angry. WhathasmadeFattysoangry? Fatty ishurt, book theCaptainisnothingbutserious. Infact,heis known normallytobeserious.However, inhisnew love himandhisgood-heartedhumor. Heisnot Pirates andCruisingSailors Capt. FattyGoodlander’snewbookentitled the necessaryactions. Shepherds, whohavetheirlivelihoodsatrisk,totake spend, toprovidethesolution.Itisincumbenton nesses thatprosperfromthemoneywecruisers ernments ofthevariouscountries,aswellbusi- to solvethisproblembyusingforce.Itisforthegov- them”. Perhapstrue,butitisnotforcruisingsailors area tothepiratesonlyencouragesandemboldens who goeswhere.Tosaythesolutionistojustcede to seethugsbeingallowedmakethedecisionsas the readerssaidthatrelativetopiracy,he“justhates same typeofboat. that catertotheneedsofcruisingboatscomein was oneoftheislandboatsthatweknowwell.Those The boattheassailantscameintorobAllenandKate Caribbean isthattheareacaterstocruisingboats. like theGrenadinesandmanyotherareasin everywhere. However,whatisuniqueaboutanarea with theGrenadines,understandthatthereiscrime Now, beforeyouconcludethatIhaveanaxetogrind entire fleetbesingledout? “tipped off”—forwhywouldthatoneboatoutofthe knew wheretostrike.PerhapstheWolveswereeven people aloneandbothseniors.PerhapstheWolves were seenduringthedayaboardtheirvessel,justtwo for theydidnothingtowarrantit.Butperhaps Queen be safer. not tovisit.Iwillgosomewhereelsethatisknown even considerthoseprospects,Iwouldsimplyprefer and fightoffassailants.ThetruthisthatifIhaveto not agoodplacetovisit.” are leaving,andtellingtherestofflockthatthisis one aboard,thenitistimefortheSheeptosay,“We watching toseewhatboatsarelyingatanchorwithno they usethesameboatsorhavelookoutsthatare Shepherds andtheWolvesbegintolookalikeinthat us thereafterISoftheirconcern.Moreover,ifthe whatever else,theymustrealizethatwhathappensto for thedaysellingusT-shirts,ice,fish,barbecuesand one knowseveryone.WhentheShepherdsarefinished safety. Inmostareasintheislandsjustaboutevery- that thosewhoareprosperinglookoutforusandour or whatever,wemustrequire—actuallydemand whether boatboys,mooringconcessionaires,marinas money tovariousvendorsinanchorages, The authortakesissuewiththeideathatthereare‘safeplaces’withinareasdangerous In theAugustissueof Both oftheseincidentshappenedintheGrenadines. In anarticlein There ismuchdiscussionofhowtodeterrobbers The pointisthatifwecruisersaregoingtogive . Fattysaysinthebook,“Butfactis, Somali endured whatnooneshouldhavetoendure, Blue WaterSailing Compass . WeallknowFattyandwe thereisareviewof , May2011,oneof Somali S/V ONSA (OrganizaciónNacionaldeSalvamentoy that aredangerous.Themaponthispageisfrom those areas. then wemusthandoutthepenaltybynotfrequenting dangerous intheCaribbeantakeappropriateaction, as thegovernmentsofareasthatareconsistently built andcruisingboatsarereturning government theareaismuchsafer.Marinasarebeing changed andwiththeproperpatrolsinitiativesof most ofusdidnotcruisethere.Thingshavenow a timewhentheColombiacoastwasdangerousand in theCaribbean,SouthAmericaandPacificaswell.” pirates continues…well,therewillbemanyimitators this trendofallprofitandnopenalty piracy affectseveryone,andsailorsinparticular.If freecruisingguides.com. Many FacetsofCaribbeanCruising and out ofthere!” one andthesame,thenitisuptous “gettheflock tecting usorthattheShepherdsandWolvesare if wecometobelievethattheShepherdsarenotpro- As totheWolves,theywillalwaysbeWolves.However, That isourleverageandwemustuseitconsciously. presence, andifweleavetheylosetheirlivelihood. protect theflock.Theydobenefitfinanciallybyour snakes aswell! cent asdoves;howeverwemustbeshrewd avoid doinganythingillegal.Thusweareasinno- in thecountriesthatwevisit.Wearecarefulto trouble andmostofustryhardtobegoodguests worth it. not “scaredoff”ofvisitingsomeplacethatmaywellbe to understandeachareaaswellIcansothatam the moneywewouldhavespentintheirarea.Iwilltry problematic areasandtheywillnothavethebenefitof for repetitiveinstancesofcrime.ThenIwillavoidany Safety andSecurityNetaswellNoonsite Compass reasonably assured.Iwillcarefullyreadthe until mysafetyandthatoffamilyguestsis incident. Butwhywouldyouriskit? roughest partsofanycityintheworldandnothavean incident. Forthatmatteryoucanwalkthroughthe tion thatyoucansailtoVenezuelaandnothavean “safe area”.Thisissheernonsense!Therenoques- my sternthattheycannotboardbecauseweareina “green area”.Iwilltellsixarmedruffiansapproaching is. Iwillrememberthismapassailthroughthe Venezuela). Thinkabouthowridiculoussuchamap Seguridad MarítimadelosEspaciosAcuáticos There hasbeentalkof“safeplaces”withintheareas I agree,butwhoistoimposethepenalty?Therewas Frank Virgintinoistheauthorof As totheShepherds,theyhavearesponsibility We aretheSheep.donotcauseagreatdealof I personallywillleaveVenezuelaasweleftColombia A

Thinking Man’sGuidetoVoyagesSouth: the every month.IwillmonitortheCaribbean Free CruisingGuides , availableatwww. .

Until suchtime for theSomali Caribbean

and look

OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 ! You have one of the ten best non-stress of the ten best non-stress ! You have one Voila Windolee. article, the large “PORTS POLICE” lettering does not instill confi- article, the large “PORTS POLICE” lettering does not they look for something more interesting. But, to start with, a clean place, they look for something more Compass then As for crime, when tourists come to my fair island of St. Thomas, the largest cruise come to my fair island of St. Thomas, the largest cruise As for crime, when tourists look at one of the photos in However, as I, Mr. Reasonably Experienced Boater, But, as ever, sailors just want to have fun, and be safe from crime. How to fun, and be safe from sailors just want to have But, as ever, Jimmy anyone who wants to emulate Virgin Islands, for example, In the British the “been there, done that, want something more” feel- Yes, that gives some of us down island I suggest: Try the BVI model. Package So, to the movers and shakers most want a safe place to stay. Many go to franchise When people travel in the US, means to have government As we move down island, I am well aware of what it the easier destinations and We should love our greenhorns. Who, for example, has sometimes it’s not easy to We have plenty to offer throughout the Caribbean, but the column “Eye on the VI” Rob Kunkel is a former Compass contributor who wrote efficiently run, with good ratings, will get the business. What works in Days Inn ratings, will get the business. What works in Days efficiently run, with good works in the Caribbean. are our fair island puts good police on the street. We ship destination in the world, Thomas, even with its high murder rate in some demo- there for the tourists. In St. crime, especially affecting our cruise-ship tourists. graphics, we do not have tourist the happen. Our Virgin Islands government respects The industry will not let this a lawyer, I have been a victim advocate in St. Thomas almighty tourist dollar. As live crime victims for ten years. Perhaps two of them serving over a thousand real were tourists. July’s help them? presence. an already functional support a relatively perfect boat and Buffet can rent Buffet, with for our wannabe Jimmy and reliability are major plusses Predictability does the BVI time and travel issues. What teenaged children, and his picky spouse, bars with getaways, cookie-cutter harbors, cookie-cutter have? Cookie-cutter venue. And con- personality in a fantastic mugs. A colourful singing T-shirts and security patrols. tinual on-the-water in the world. sailing adventures very pleased with just what they get in the BVI. Sailing ing, but many visitors are One man’s cookie-cutter “heresy” is another man’s does not have to be a big stress. delightful reality. (and woman’s, and family’s) in have all the things a new boater would like to see a list of safe destinations that the ports and businesses that can make it happen. a Caribbean experience. Identify advertise this package, with references. Work together, and honestly and are reliable. Once people are settled, safe, dry, clean hotel chains, because they fed, I saw a boat like that zooming dence in my soul. I would not know what to expect if would think. The operator of toward me. Imagine what our wannabe Jimmy Buffet the world, but it’s not a guar- that speeding boat may be the nicest, fairest person in It does happen that law- antee, and we don’t know for sure to expect the best. Certainly, those in the enforcement officials make boating an unhappy experience. in the US, and know how to US can be among the worst, but we are used to abuse handle it. by acting silently; the best helping. In an ideal situation, government often helps they are being governed. governors can be those whose citizens do not feel that by being sometimes obvious, Government help might be better received by the visitor sometimes less obvious. Once visitors have is more likely to see the newbie cruiser and first-time bareboater? come back. Make it easy for had a good experience somewhere, they will want to to all destinations. After them to get there; make air travel as painless as possible to sign on for the more experiencing the easy-to-reach places, they will be ready is properly marketed and exotic adventures, as Don Street suggests. If their travel will find island travel enjoy- they know a destination is safe, these new adventurers potential problems and solve able. Our duty, if we want them to come, is to foresee grow to love sailing and the them in advance. Don’t scare them away! Let them Caribbean as much as we do. a simpler, better organized, see. Let us make it a little easier for visitors, by offering course this begets another even “cookie-cutter” package, with better security. Of and should be avoided as heresy, gentrification. Yes, this will be a great concern people safe. Bring money much as possible, but let us not forget the goals. Keep water. down island. Capitalize on our greatest resource, the aboard his 41-foot Howard from 2002 through 2008, and cruised the Lesser Antilles Chapelle-designed schooner,

ADVENTUREGIRL.COM Do the British Virgins provide a ‘cookie-cutter’ adventure? But they’re safe — and popular advertisers in this issue by Rob Kunkel at any of these locations ( . Readers! When in Martinique, pick up your free monthly copy ): PICK UP! Sea Services Volvo Inboard Diesel Service W.I.N.D. Caraïbe Gréement Capitainerie French Customs Le Ship Mécanique Plaisance Mango Bay Carenantilles Careneshop Clippers Ship Voiles Assistance YES Engineering Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Ahoy, CASE PILOTE RIVIÈRE SALÉE LE MARIN Marina: Artimer area: FORT DE FRANCE Carenantilles of the appear in bold Thank you for the article about the Caribbean yachting industry in the July 2011 Thank you for the article about the Caribbean yachting I am in full sympathy with the adventurer’s dream. As I sit back and reflect from I am in full sympathy with the adventurer’s dream. As I will now utter sheer heresy. Sometimes sailing is not entirely about adventure; I will now utter sheer heresy. Sometimes sailing is not Crime is what this discussion is all about. Crime is what makes the new money Crime is what this discussion is all about. Crime is But at the recreational sailor’s level, “bureaucracy” does come to refer to unhappy But at the recreational sailor’s level, “bureaucracy” does Bureaucracy is another, almost uncontrollable, issue. The Caribbean contains Bureaucracy is another, almost uncontrollable, issue. Three problems are identified: crime, economy, bureaucracy. In reality, we can do Three problems are identified: crime, economy, bureaucracy. THE GREAT CARIBBEAN THE GREAT CARIBBEAN YACHTING INDUSTRY PROBLEMS REVISITED issue of a cozy corner of a dry place in St. Thomas, facing the sea, I look up at three clocks a cozy corner of a dry place in St. Thomas, facing the Mean Time. One is on St. in a row, like in those old movies. One is on Greenwich time, where it may have all Thomas time, my home. And one is on Pitcairn Island TV series, fueled my wander- started for me. “Adventures in Paradise”, a short-lived used to miss the chance to lust, and Jimmy Buffet’s “Captain and the Kid” (“I never upon the sea”) pretty much climb up on his knee, and listen to the many tales of life sealed my fate. rather, it’s about “Adventure Lite” — simple, straightforward, and stress free. And rather, it’s about “Adventure Lite” — simple, straightforward, crime free. not come in. interactions with Customs people or politicians. Boaters become used to whatever interactions with Customs people or politicians. Boaters arbitrary? Sure. Like “island grilling we get from border authorities. Rude, mean, around. In the end, many dis- time”, it is something that we get used to, and work barroom stories that get a cussions about bureaucracy are really nothing more than good laugh. scores of jurisdictions with hundreds of possible solutions, even on just one island. scores of jurisdictions with hundreds of possible solutions, religion. Just as we will never To take the “right” approach is like finding the “right” uniformity in Caribbean law have real uniformity in culture, we will never have real enforcement. Nor would we want it! nothing about the economy, except to better address our own. nothing about the economy, except to better address OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 (fictional) journals: from St.Thomas,USVI,toGeorge’s,Bermuda,inJune,1960. Iolaire ings ofthelateHunterS.Thompson,andfromtheirshipmateson facts IhavebeenabletogleanfromDonaldM.StreetJr.,thewrit- a greatbull-shitter. ume thatcarriesacrossthebareasilyashecallsouttooldsailingbuddies,andis York afterthestopinBermuda.Donhasahighraspyvoicewithtimbreandvol- “crew” —inotherwords,theyaren’tpayingCaptainDon,andareheadingforNew wanted two“payingguestsailingapprentices”;Iguesseveryoneelseonboardis Sandy andIsignedup.Whynot?Wedidn’ttellhimaboutPaul,sinceheonly son perday.Althoughthat’salot,wehadn’thadanyotherluckfindingride,so Antilles; hejusthappenedtohaveacoupleofberthsavailableattenbucksperper- charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon So, astakenfromThompson,StreetandConklin’srespective The followingaccountisfiction,althoughitcloselyfollowsallthe Well, Imetthisswagger-stick-affecting“formermarine”namedHunteratFatCity Street -June12,1960,YachtHavenMarina,St.Thomas For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill 0 0603 0512 20 0421 19 0330 18 0240 17 0151 16 0104 15 0019 14 0000 (full) 13 2336 12 2254 2212 11 2131 10 2048 9 2004 8 1918 7 1828 6 1734 5 1637 4 1538 3 2 1 DATE TIME October Gonzo JournalistSailswithLegendaryAuthor MERIDIAN PASSAGE , SandyConklinandPaulSemonin,aboutanactualvoyage OCTOBER -NOVEMBER2011 OF THEMOON 2301 2217 2134 9 2052 8 2011 7 1930 6 1846 5 1801 4 1712 3 2 1 DATE TIME 1619 November 1522 31 1422 30 1320 29 1218(new) 28 1119 27 1022 26 0928 25 0835 24 0744 23 0654 22 21 a cargoboatheadingeastthanhereinthe we’d haveamuchbetterchanceoffinding sloop boundforBermuda,wherehesaid Don Street,captainofthe After afewkillerrumpunches,wemet few localschoonersheadingdown-island. no cargoboatsheadingforEurope,onlya before thehurricaneseasonbegins,but place wasloadedwithyachtsheadingout Gibraltar. Andshewashalf-right:the boat toSpain,orcrewonayacht Europe —eitheraspassengersonacargo to meetacaptainandcopcheapride go there,anditwouldbeourbestchance because Sandyclaimedthatallthesailors US VirginIslands. City BarinCharlotteAmalie, We cametothisrum-soakeddive Thompson -June11,1960atFat Fear andLoathingintheMid-Atlantic: 0 1640 1552 30 1500 29 1403 28 1303(new) 27 1201 26 1058 25 0958 24 0901 23 0807 22 0716 21 0627 20 0538 19 0449 18 0359 17 0309 16 0217 15 0126 14 0036 13 0000(full) 12 2346 11 10 by William‘BillyBones’Pringle Iolaire , a47-foot Don Street(above)andHunterS.Thompson(left)inthe1960s entirely accurate,althoughwecheckedit withWWVbeforeweleftSt.T. at all,sincemygrandfather’soldgoldwatch thatweusetonavigatewithmaynotbe wind holdsforthepassagethroughcut intoSt.George’s,andthatwearrivethere 150-mile-plus dayyesterdayandagood SWbreezeblowingtoday.Surehopethis two knotsorbetterthewholetrip,and withnoengine,that’sdoingwell,a for him,we’dbehavingagreatsail— littlelightinthedoldrums,butwe’vemade mid-Atlantic Ocean”.) bags sellingnitro”,“beer-guzzlingLouisvillepimps”and”fearloathingin the if I’llevenbeabletoreadthis… anything exceptexist.Ican’tevenwritewiththeboatlurchingaround;whoknows cur, won’tleavethecabinunlessStreetisonhelm,sohecan’tbetoldto do Women arealleithersaintsorwhores;whosaidthat?Sotrue.Paul,thespineless the shitforit.AndthatguyScottisalloverSandy,andbitchegginghim on. hands ondeck?”Nowayinhell! it withincomprehensibleorders;theonesyoudocomprehendarebadenough. “All out; he’sonthehelmandcan’tgetatme.AftertwoyearsinAirForce,I’ve had No, letthegung-hobastardsdealwithitthemselves.Letswineshouthislungs decent time. Street Junior,withnowheretogetoffinthiswaterydesert.Atleastwe’remaking foul mood.He’sSOjealous,Ican’ttalktoanyonewithouthimflyingintoarage! lot ofattention,particularlyfromScott,thefirstmate,whichIthinkcontributestoHunter’s along verynicely,whichisgood,sincetheenginequitworkingyesterday. sewn aroundthetop(hecalledita“grommet”)andeverything! and somecanvas,madeabeautifulnewoneincoupleofhours,withrope ticularly afterhelostabucketoverboard.Oneoftheothercrewgotouthissewingkit time, exceptmaybeCaptainDon,whoismightilypissedoffatHunter’sattitude,par- Hunter, whomostlyliessulkinginhiscabin.Actually,everyoneelseishavingagreat barely enough. arriving withnomeanstodepart,andthesethreedidn’tlookflush,buttheyhad licenses!) anddeparturemoneyfromBermuda.Immigrationisverystickyaboutpeople And it’sagoodthingthatIcheckedeverybody’sdocumentslastnight(onlydrivers’ rienced crewonboardwhocanstandwatchesatnightandsteeracompasscourse! me atthelastmomenthasdisappearedsomewherebelow.GoodthingIhaveanexpe- like shehastomakeupforhissurlyattitude,andthisPaulguythattheysprungon won’t obeyasingleorder!His“wife”(girlfriendmorelikeit),Sandy,isveryhelpful, course forBermuda.Crewworkingwell,exceptthattwit“swaggerstick”guy,who last mealifetime,andI’mnottakingthemfrompipsqueakyachtcaptain,period! don’t mindhelpingout,butI’vehadaboutenoughordersintheAirForceatEglinto that —andrightnow!Hell,letthe“crew”docrap;we’repayingpassengers.I he’s equallyobviouslygoingtobeapainintheasswithallhisordersdothisand harbor, boundforSt.George’s,Bermuda.Streetobviouslyknowswhathe’sdoing; this morningcastoffthedocklines,raisedsail,andeversosweetlysailedoutof he couldalsochargeanotherpassagefee),sorelented,westowedourbags,and already hadthreecrew,plushimself.Buthealsorealizedthatwemightwalk(and we arethree,ashehadsaidthatcanonlyhaveatotalofsixonboard,and guy. Aswaggerstick!!?Comeon! since Ihadafewbunksemptyon heading inadayortwo,andI’donlychargethemtendollarseachforthetrip, told himthatthey’dhavealotbetterchanceofdoingfromBermuda,whereIwas last nightwhowantstocatchacargoboatSpainwithhiswife,nice-lookinggal.I Never inmy30yearshaveIseenasuseless atwitasthisHunterguy.Ifitwasn’t Street –June17,1960,atsea. (Here thenarrativebecomesillegibleforseveralpages,exceptwords,“scum- So Ilostabucketoverboard;thegoddamropebroke,rottentocore,andget “All hands;hey‘SwaggerStick’,getyourassondeck,it’stimetodousethechute!” Here Iam,surroundedbyvicioustoad-eatingsycophantstothattyrantDonaldM. Thompson –June17,1960,atsea. The restofthecrewaregreatsailors,andsinceI’monlywomanonboard,Iget a We’ve hadreallygoodwind,andtheschooner Wow, youcouldcuttheatmospherewithaknifeonboardhere,atleastfrom Conklin –June16,1960,atsea. Great sailoutofCharlotteAmalie,clearedRedHookandPillsburySound,seta Street -June14,1960,atsea. Captain Donwasnotpleasedlastnightwhenwecameaboardandherealizedthat Thompson -June14,1960,atsea.

Iolaire . We’llsee;I’vegotabadfeelingaboutthis Isle Aire , all55feetofher,issailing —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

, , July 10, 1960), July 10, 1960 Clipping from The Royal Gazette . Word gets around starring Johnny Depp as Isle Aire had a few empty bunks for had a few empty bunks for Iolaire Royal Gazette Weekly the trip from St. Thomas to Bermuda the trip from St. Thomas to Rico Below: Thompson in Puerto before the voyage Left: I got rid of Swagger Stick and his two pals, I got rid of Swagger Stick and the gal go. although I was sorry to see from New “Cue Ball” Curry is coming down to replace York with one of his friends a hell of a lot them, and I’m sure they’ll be better than that useless twit! The Rum Diary, is an upcoming film based on the novel of the same name by Hunter Thompson, Conklin and Semonin were left in Bermuda; “They Hoped to

is set to be released on October 28th. , Continued from previous page Continued from Epilogue: Yeah, right, like anyone will hire us, after our trip on the Conklin – June 20, 1960, St. George’s, Bermuda coming through that narrow Wow, what a sail last night in the complete darkness, I’m here at a likely looking bar named the White Horse, finally getting back to nor- I’m here at a likely looking bar named the White Horse, Thompson – June 20, 1960, St. George’s, Bermuda. early this morning According to Captain Don, we had a near-death experience Street – June 20, 1960, St. George’s, Bermuda, lying at Ordinance Island. Street – June 20, 1960, St. through the cut, had to short-tack it, then the wind quit, What a sail last night, right And the dog Bito has gotten more rum to drink on this passage than I have! Street drink on this passage than has gotten more rum to And the dog Bito Thompson – June 18, 1960, at sea. Thompson – on with it, and quickly as possible, to get is to GET TO SPAIN as What’s important When it came time to dowse the chute, did “Swagger Stick” deign to come on deck to “Swagger Stick” deign to time to dowse the chute, did When it came The Rum Diary Thompson you know, and Don’s the toast of the town for sailing through the cut last night. Anyway, we’ll see what the future brings! little passageway! It’s the first time that I’ve ever seen Captain Don look nervous, and little passageway! It’s the first time that I’ve ever seen Captain had to sail up to the Customs so it made me nervous too! But we made it! Then we did great, and here we are in and Immigration dock in the dark also, but the crew bar, and he’s probably going Bermuda. Hunter is already getting drunk in a dockside he says, “We’re going to to piss away his plane ticket money to New York. “It’s okay”, get a free passage to Europe on a yacht. You’ll see. Why not?” he says. mal; now for a ride to Spain! entering St. George’s. As far as I’m concerned, I’ve had a near-death experience since entering St. George’s. As far as I’m concerned, I’ve had of that whole boatload of we left St. Thomas, and I’m thoroughly glad to be shut breast-beating braggarts. as you get blanketed by the high cliffs on both sides, and the currents eddy on both high cliffs on both sides, and the currents eddy on both as you get blanketed by the and we had to sail right up to the NE edge, not twenty ends of the passage. No moon, and visibility, before we got the back-lash and could tack, feet from the cliffs with no sneak us through. But never again!! Not many people a little counter-current helped the the day, much less at night, and the guys here at sail this size boat through during let me or my crew buy a drink!!! At least, (and at last!), Yacht and Dinghy Club won’t always seems to have plenty of Heinekens for himself though. to have plenty of Heinekens always seems to get off this boat and away from its maniac skipper and his grinning, savage crew, skipper and his grinning, boat and away from its maniac to get off this second novel, as to writing, maybe start a Then I can get back the dirty waterheads! a two-year effort for nothing. the first one was help get it down? What an arrogant POS! help get it down? — S. Thompson. Thompson wrote the novel in 1961, about his experiences in Puerto Rico just prior to the events in this article. described their plight. Conklin and Semonin flew to New York, leaving Thompson. He borrowed money from friends and joined them a few weeks later. Reach Spain But Are Stranded in Bermuda” ( OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 plank oryoutalkitout. third ofNovember,whenyoueithermakeher walkthe complaints andbackstabbing.Thiswillcontinue untilthe anchorage afterthe9th.Afemalewillcausediscord with a potentialromancethatsailsintoyoursphere onthe9th. meet withheadseasandflukywinds.Divertyourself keep toomanyballsintheairatonce. tion andinventiveness.Youwillfeellikeajugglertryingto business frustrationscausedbyproblemsincommunica- in thefuture. Maintain ahumbledemeanoranditwillbringfairwinds weeks ofthemonth.Don’tletitgotoyourhead. tain” or“I’madmiral”attitude. can’t watchwhatyousayorhaveanarrogant“I’mcap- may getyouintoironswithyourromanticpartnerif economic progress. skills willaddbeneficialcurrentstoyourbusinessor sail awayafterthe9th,butyourcreativityandverbal have tomakeanysailchangesatallforawhile. the roughseasyou’vehadtonavigaterecently.Youwon’t energies to. you needtoaccomplishwhateversetyourmindand course. Marsisinyoursignandwillgiveyouthebreeze and leadtoexcitingnewprospects. down —fairwindswillpickupagainafterthethirdweek out withingenuityachallenge,butdon’tletitgetyou life, whichcouldbeagoodthing. female crewmemberorcruisingbuddymovingoutofyour to yourbusinessorfinancialsituation.Therewillbea marina oranchorage. vibes affectyourrelationshipwitheverybodyinthe Perhaps acleanbreakwouldbebestbeforeanybad friction withcreworcruisingbuddiesafterthe13th. around thefullmoonon12th,andyoumighthave gun; waittillafterthe13thtomakeyourdecision. find alackofrespectandco-operation,butdon’tjumpthe futile. Itmightbetimetochangecreworjumpshipifyou standings aboardandtryingtoexplainyourselfwillbe It lookslikesquallswithatroublemakerinthe crewor It willseemthatnomatterwhichcourseyousteeryou’ll You’ll needastrongsenseofhumortodealwithboat You willbethecenterofattentioninmiddletwo Your lackofsensehumorduringthesecondweek The advantageousfeminineaspectinyourlifewill Relax andhaveacarefreemonth.Youdeserveitafter Keep theworkingsailsupandhelmonasteady Boat businessmaybeabitslowandtryingtobalanceit Your creativejuiceswillbeflowingandanasset A femalecouldmakethingsdownrightnastyforyou It wasalong,hotsummer.Therecouldbemisunder- OCTOBER 2011 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov)

TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

DAVON BAKER BAY TYRREL parlumps marooned Tyrrel Bay’stheplacetobe! So afterabuffetingatsea— On FridaysLambieQueenishumming, Or ifyouwantsteelbandanddrumming, That’s reachedbydinghy,walking,car. At LazyTurtle’sseasidebar Is madebyMonsieurJeanBaptiste Crave apizza?Well,thebest Go bydinghy,don’tbenervous. You’ll findgoodfood,andcheerfulservice, Take ajaunttoTheSlipway— As nightfallsonthispeacefulbay, Just curious,notwithforeboding. You sitandwonderwhatthey’reloading, Commercial vessels,oneortwo, The jettyalwayshasafew At least,assafeanywhere! And hopefullybesafeinthere— Into themangrovewecango, Me, thatifwehaveablow, Tug theiranchors,anditpleases The sailboatsnod,asgentlebreezes I likeitscurve,andthecalmway I liketobeinTyrrelBay,

— NanHatch

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OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2011 © 2011 OLLIVIERRE ELAINE . Lucia in . Lucia in islands of islands of n the Atlantic 000 miles long. 000 miles long. um fish, a rather um fish, a rather It’s an instrument used for measuring — Answers on page 45 The development of tide gauges also helped to advance our knowledge of The development of tide gauges also helped to advance our knowledge of Do you know what a seismometer is? WORD PUZZLE By changing one letter at a time, how can you change the word TIDE into the tries showed that this tsunami spread out right across the Atlantic. This was tries showed that this tsunami spread out right across the Atlantic. This was the first time that scientists knew for a fact that tsunamis could travel for great distances without losing energy. The waves arrived in the Caribbean before they arrived in northern Europe. This showed that tsunami waves travel faster in deep water (like the Atlantic Ocean) than in shallow water (like the continental shelf of Europe). tsunamis. The movement of tides had been known for thousands of years but it was only in the 19th century that a way was found to record tidal movements systematically. Invented in 1831, the self-regulating tide gauge was first used in the US in 1854. Earlier tide gauges had to be monitored by a human observer at regular intervals (every hour, usually) but the self-regulating type allowed the measurements of the water level to be recorded auto- matically on a paper-covered drum. These records were in the shape of curves and showed how the water rose and fell as the tides came in and out. Sometimes, the smooth tidal curves were interrupted by extra wiggles in the lines. Scientists recognized that these must come from submarine earthquakes far away and the tidal gauges were recording tsunami waves that had been generated from the earthquakes. earth movements. Next month, we’ll find out how seismometers and seismo- graphs are used to advance our knowledge of tsunamis. word WAVE? Jop wondered what other dangers lurked in this new world and he was soon to find Jop wondered what other dangers lurked in this new but as he needed a wife to Jop grew more and more depressed as each day passed comforted him, loved him and Indeed Jop had found his wife, the perfect wife. She THE END When Jop was just a little tiddler, his mother had taught him how to survive under tiddler, his mother had taught him how to survive under When Jop was just a little and wife so far from home?” Jop wondered. He felt lost “Now how am I to find a the bedtime stories that had been passed down through Poor little Jop thought of all how the adventure had That was where the story finished and Jop now wondered sargassum aside, sending it upwards in a giant wave. Jop clung on for his life until all sargassum aside, sending it upwards in a giant wave. because farther out, tankers was calm again. Luckily for Jop his raft was close to shore crushed all beneath their hulls: and large cargo ships sank down upon the weed and fish, snails, shrimps and all. beach and were grabbing hand- out because a bunch of children had swum out from the it, laughing and throwing long fuls of the sargassum and were draping their bodies with back to shore and left the sar- wreaths at each other. When they grew tired they swam seen humans before and now gassum to dry out and die on the beach. Jop had never a little fish move away in time? he hurried off whenever he heard voices. But how could weed and all the animals it shel- A scientific study was being made of the sargassum up in a collecting box and taken tered and luckily for Jop he just missed being scooped away for analysis. this Jop came face to face with comfort him, he continued his search. Not too long after so stunned that he just stared at the prettiest little frogfish he had ever seen. He was heart missed a beat. Could this her. The little frogfish smiled the sweetest smile and his “I thought I was the only be her? His future wife? “Oh thank goodness!” she laughed, they had found each other and one alive and now, here you are!” It was a miracle that weed together. they agreed never to part and so began roaming the sargassum sargassum. Jop loved her with all made him the happiest frogfish that ever lived in the survived many dangers together his heart and with her love to give him strength they and perilous world. and eventually raised a family of their own in this new the sargassum weed. She had explained that the long lines of sargassum weed are held explained that the long lines of sargassum weed are the sargassum weed. She had fins as tendrils and she had shown Jop how to use his front together by hooks on their to find food and friends, and eventually a wife. feet and walk his way around his raft didn’t know that there were others just like him in uneasy about his future. He some had caught the currents and gone sailing off as if on and all the other rafts that wild adventure. frogfish, beginning with the story of Christopher Columbus generations of sargassum yellow Ocean and marveling at the carpet of little sailing across the North Atlantic miles. keep the weed afloat) that stretched for miles and “grapes” (the air sacks that to shore because among this ocean forest were shrimps, Columbus thought he was close and sorts of small fish. The crew had been about to mutiny crabs, worms, snails and all pushed seem that an island was close. Columbus sailed on, return home, but now it did little to do but keep their bellies by a steady breeze. The crew was happy enough, with filled the water casks. full with the fish they caught while frequent showers adventure of his own. Although ended, little realizing that he was living a very exciting that was his home and see Jop felt sorry for himself he set out to explore the sargassum object towered above him. Was what he could find. But one day, out of the blue, a huge of the sailing yacht brushed the this the end? But before it could crush him, the bow CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING

. ly a l e o s

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i How can we predict when a tsunami

by Lee Kessell l

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H n a The simple answer is: we can’t. We can’t even predict when The Sargasso Sea is a slow whirlpool that straddles the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean, 700 miles from top to bottom and 2, miles from top to bottom North Atlantic Ocean, 700 straddles the middle of the Sea is a slow whirlpool that The Sargasso of the weed and he knew he should be at home i weed and he exactly matched the greens and yellows Jop lived under the sargassum Jop was in a long shaft of sargassum weed that had been caught by a freak eddy, sending it journeying south until it reached St sargassum weed that had been caught by a freak Jop was in a long shaft of the Caribbean Sea. Other strings from the edges of the great Sargasso Sea had caught eddies of their own and ended up in other caught eddies of their own and ended up in other strings from the edges of the great Sargasso Sea had the Caribbean Sea. Other the Caribbean. It has been an inspiration for romantic stories through the ages but Jop was far from feeling romantic because he was a sargass romantic because he was Jop was far from feeling through the ages but inspiration for romantic stories It has been an frogfish. ugly (to humans) — but this was different; where was he? — but this was different; where by Elaine Ollivierre

For example, a tsunami originated from a submarine earthquake off the coast For example, a tsunami originated from a submarine earthquake off the coast We need to learn as much as we can about earthquakes and tsunamis. First, Tsunamis are huge water waves that can cause massive destruction as they

DOLLY’S DEEP SECRETS

of Portugal in 1755 and killed thousands of people. Reports from other coun- we can look at the historical record and gather information about tsunamis of the past, which can help us learn about tsunamis of the present. power their way over large areas on land. is going to strike? safe? the earthquake that causes the tsunami is going to happen. And not all earthquakes cause tsunamis. MARCUS ELIESER BLOCH ELIESER MARCUS Breaks Free Sargasso Sargasso The OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 FREE CRUISINGGUIDES Compliments of Summercatchuporadvancement programsavailable. Duetopersonalizedprograms,midterm enrollmentispossible. ortutoringprograms.Individualtailored programsasneeded. • Fullfouryearprograms,singleonemonthbooster toEducationalGuidanceandMaterials. Travelers,orAnyoneDoingHomeSchoolingWithLimitedAccess • SpecialGuidedEducationProgramsforBoatOwners,Cruisers, • Individualandgrouptutoring backwhilestudentsthatneedmoreattentionarenotleftbehind • IndividualizedStudentProgramssothatfasterstudentsarenotheld • UniversityandCollegePrep • FullHighSchoolGrades9,10,11&12 www.AdventureHighSchool.org www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone:(800)927-9503 Marina M T www.haiticruisingguide.com www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com www.caymanislandscruisingguide.com www.trinidadruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com HHE Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic E AAND Graduates receiveaUSDIPLOMA W N W [email protected] D www.marinazarpar.com C OORLD Cruising Guide Cayman Islands Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide Haiti Cruising Guide Dominican Republic C I R N OOLLEGE L T L D T L ' HHE S E F G E F C E IINEST C N P P AARIBBEAN E RREP R S Zar-Par E T I B P H H B P P E IIGH G RROGRAM A O H N G S

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Amazon.com andotheron-linebooksellers. aperitif, especiallyifyoulikemangodaiquiris. rate andauthentic. Creole expressionsandsemantics.Shehas gonetogreatlengthsmakethataccu- She acknowledgesinherintroductionthevarioussourcesshecalledupontoclarify and hisfreshmangodaiquiris,thatis. doo isgoingtokeepherfromsettlingdownwithonetruelove,Leon.Well,Leon she acceptsherbeloved,foiblesandall.Notpeople,notrain,neitherdrugsnorvoo- her struggletogofrominfatuationwithLeon,maturelove.Bytheendofstory, to whichshearrives,andforwhomdeclareshertruelove.Thestorydevelops island isametaphorforparadise,love,passion.Itstateofmindandheart tagonist, twofriendsandhermothertrytosolvewhattheybelievebeamurder. dignitaries. Thebookbecameevenmoreinterestingtowardtheendwhenpro- cism, thesneerofbeautifullybewitchingCastella,andhighfalutin’haughtyLeon lenge. WedocometoknowHeather’ssheerdetermination,hermother’scageywitti- her faithfulsteedtowardParadisecomewhatmay. We starttogettheideathatHeather,likeafemaleDonQuixote,willclompalong on to cagedolphins.Theyareamongthemanywhounjustlyassaultbraveheroine. her bay.Over-the-hillAnglohippiesblameHeatherinitiallyasapromoteroftrying place wherepeopledie. ocean isanenvironmentfordrugrunnersandunseemlysailors.Itabarrier, cocktails, meditationorforeplay,thatis,withfeetplantedfirmlyinthesand.The bunny category. water promptly.Forthisreviewer,anobathing-bathingsuitputsthewearerinski shallow wateranddivesin. that shehaslaboredtoremodel,runsacrosstheadjoiningbeach,trudgesthrough when Heathergoesthroughaconfrontationofheartandmind.Shefleesherhotel she ismodestinherself-description. events byhowshechoosestodress.Havingmetthevivacious,fitauthorinperson, Love, LossandWhatIWore of Paradise eral personaldevelopmentbooks.Theirinfluenceisevidentthroughout Pacing”, “LawofRequisiteOrder”.InreallifeVerityhaswrittenandpublishedsev- Heather isdistraught. tality hasrainedhavoconseveralpeople,itisherbelovedmutt,Missy,forwhom you aboutitsometime.”CanineconcerntrumpshumanloveforHeather.Whenbru- insight aboutherbestfriend,Raavi,butareshutoffwhenshetellsHeather,“I’lltell acters beyondsuperficiality.Inthelastquarterofbookwecomeclosetoan and bewitchinglybeautifulCastella.Verityteasesuswithgettingtoknowherchar- conniving andoftencharminglocalcharacters,includingtheex-ownerofParadise come toseeHeatherthroughthehotel’sgrandopening.Theycontrastwithsome Bravery becomesher. amidst characterswithknifeandcutlassscars.Sheherselfmustdodgeafewbullets. ing aneedleinhaystack.Gregariousandhardlygunslinging,Heatherfindsherself and turnsbringherintoaworldwherefiguringoutwhomyoucantrustislikefind- are barriers.Shewadesherwayintoaheapofstress,mayhemanddanger.Twists retrofitting andre-openingahotelinplacewhereweather,culturelanguage relate. alcoholic beveragesandsexwithhernewspouse—aphrodisiacstowhichmanycan connected HeathertoherCaribbeanParadise—theintoxicationofopulentsunsets, faraway placesandHerculeanchallenge.Inthisnovelwritteninthefirstperson, find out. agent andadry-clean-onlybikinihaveincommon?Read ©2010. Paperback,448pages.ISBN1-857567366.EC$29.95. andMayhem Mango Daiquiris BOOK REVIEWBYELLENBIRRELL This bookisavailableatallbranchesof SunshineBookshopsinSt.Luciaandvia I wouldn’tcallthisasailingman’sbook, butforthearmchairtraveler,itisatangy Verity’s strengthisthefascinatingCreoledialogueofherWestIndiancharacters. Verity paintsLeonasHeather’s“otherlover”.Whilemenfailandforsakeher,the As withanyjuicynovel,gettingthereaderattachedtoitscharactersisVerity’schal- Verity soundsthehornforprotectingdolphinsfromaproposedpettingzoo in The oceanisnotafriendtoHeather.Itmakessplendidbackdropforsunset “Heather! Thatismydry-clean-onlybikini!”shoutsRaavi.Heathergetsoutofthe We growtounderstandjusthowfarastretchhernewlifeisforthiscityslicker Walking outofParadise Heather quotesfromvariousself-helpbooksshe’sread,usingtermslike“Future Her wittymother,aWestIndianLondonco-worker,andhigh-stylegirlfriend Coming fromasensibleyetunsatisfyinglife,Heatherchoosesthebigchallengeof Safe yetsterile,Heather’sLondonlifestylefuelsasimmeringcauldronofdesirefor What dofreshmangodaiquiris,aninbredCaribbeanisland,aBritishrealestate Walking outofParadise . islikeanon-illustrated,longversionofIleneBeckerman’s . VeritysetsthetoneforHeather’stasks,challengesand , byJudithVerity.JanusPublishingCompanyLimited some voodoomystique.Verityestablisheswhat town jealousyandpettiness,eventapsinto setting thatinspiredthestory.Shepegssmall- changed, butcertaindescriptivesthinlyveilthe the storyisautobiographical,andallnamesare hell breakslose. When shegoestopurchasetheParadisehotel,all houses herrealandmetaphoricalParadise. that thereissinisteractivityinthebay the islandof“Leon”inCaribbean.Welearn Lucia istobefoundinthisstory.Instead,wevisit Bay, St.Lucia.ButneitherMangoInnnor owns andmanagestheMangoInninMarigot the AtlanticOcean.Inreallife,Britishauthor two-week honeymoonthatinspireamoveacross quiris onwhichHeathersippedeachdayofher heart, orshouldwesayofthemouth? return toasimpler,morepristineplaceofthe bride shewas15yearsearlier,herquestisto Cognizant thatshecannotreturnastheyoung self-made gal,longstoreturnaromanticplace. protagonist Heather,astylish,notyetmiddle-aged, Judith Verity’sbookdoesnotconfesswhether It istheerotic,unmatchablefreshmangodai- Walking outofParadise Walking out to OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

are these pulls, so the higher the tides. Add to are these pulls, so the higher NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! THE TO ADDED JET NEW The Why Book of Sailing different FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS — see Figure 2). At peak time you may see up to 20 to 30 meteors — see Figure 2). At peak time radiant 21st - Orionids meteor shower (see below). 21st - Orionids below). AND moon in perigee (see 26th - New Moon Figure 1). and the crescent moon (see of Venus, Mercury, 28th - Nice grouping Meteor Shower The Orionids at this time of the year. Each year predictable meteor showers One of the better Scott Welty is the author of New Moon in Perigee is moon for the month and coincidentally the moon On the 26th we have our new every month, but the From the diagram you might think that this should happen To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck will be nice and bright in As noted above, Jupiter is rising early in the evening and the Earth passes through debris left behind by Halley’s comet. As it happens the by Halley’s comet. As through debris left behind the Earth passes of lined up with the Orion constellation hence the name collision happens at a point 2). You might see meteors far from Orion or even the meteor shower (See Figure will look as if they are emanating from the elbow of Orion before Orion rises but they (called the per hour. The dark skies in the Caribbean will help but the moon will not. Try to get the Caribbean will help but the moon will not. Try to per hour. The dark skies in rises at 0130 on the 22nd. Just lie on deck and gaze out and look before the moon the out of the southeast. Remember, it’s not that up, looking for meteors coming the Earth crashing into them. If you see one know that meteors are moving but it’s trail left from a grain-of-sand up to pebble size burning you are looking at the fiery 50 to 75 miles up. No need to duck… usually. up in our atmosphere about (see in its orbit that brings it the closest to the Earth also in perigee. This is the point is that this arrangement has the tendency to produce Figure 3). So what? ‘So what’ the Tides are mostly caused by the moon because of bigger than average tides. The and far sides of the Earth, stretching out the water. unequal pulls on the near closer the moon, the more the Earth every 8.85 years. elliptical orbit of the moon itself rotates once around tidal range are accordingly Tides are small in the Caribbean so variations in the 26th. Note that there is a lag small, but you might look at tidal levels around the new moon/perigee are on the between the moon’s position and the tidal effect. If 26th, the effect will be seen a day or so later. — a solar-powered space- the eastern sky. Back in August, NASA launched JUNO questions about the solar craft heading to Jupiter to work out a number of nagging constituent elements at the system’s biggest planet, and also questions about the five years to get there after dawn of the solar system itself. It will take the spacecraft to get a gravitational boost. looping around the sun and back around the Earth He first noted the moons of Think how amazed (and excited) Galileo would be. revolve around something Jupiter, showing that there were things in the sky that other than the Earth, leading the way to an acceptance of the fact that the planets themselves orbit the sun rather than the Earth. More than 400 years later and we’re still curious about Jupiter. Just like good old Galileo! this the fact that at new moon, the moon, sun and Earth are lined up, so we have the moon, sun and Earth are lined up, so we have this the fact that at new moon, of of the slight tidal effect of the sun adding to the effect higher tides then because the moon (spring tides). Figure 1 - Crescent moon, Venus, and Mercury at sundown on the 28th Figure 1 - Crescent moon, Venus, and Mercury at sundown the 22nd, but you can look Figure 2 - The Orionids meteor shower. Sky at 0100 on even before Orion rises on the 21st is because of difference Figure 3 - New moon AND moon in perigee. Tidal bulge in pull on near and far side. (NOT to scale… at all!)

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2

) for Grenada.

zenith THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN by Scott Welty The Sky in October Sky in The 11th - Full Moon your 16th - At 0045 hours Jupiter will be straight up (in SATURN - Setting at 1830 on the first, and then earlier and earlier. SATURN - Setting at 1830 Sky Events This Month EARTH - Going to a Halloween party as Uranus. EARTH - Going to a Halloween and 0200 and riding in Leo. MARS - Rising between 0100 moving to 1730 by the end of the month and riding JUPITER - Rising at 1930 The Planets in October in trailing the sun as evening stars. Best seen later MERCURY and VENUS - Both Slightly to the south of straight up as your viewpoint moves north of Grenada. Slightly to the south of straight up as your viewpoint in Aries. the month. OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, at allIslandWaterworldstoresandJohnson's Hardware, Rocks don’tmove—oriftheydoareshownon DVDs availableatImray,KelvinHughes,Armchair Sailor/ marine tradeguideeveryyear,whichismuchmore saw theiradin infrastructure, virtuallyeveryislandputsoutafree to tellouradvertisersyou departments putoutafreeannualguideforbars, or fromwww.iUniverse.comandwww.seabooks.com up-to-date thananyguide;similarly,thetourist Full informationonDVDsatwww.street-iolaire.com ☛ information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. up-to-date Imraycharts.Regardingmarine Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Bluewater Books,andwww.street-iolaire.com. With alltheseupdatesreadilyavailable, NEW! Street’s Guides and DVDs are available Street’s GuidesandDVDsareavailable Street’s guidesaretimeless.

Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. REMEMBER are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: ! Caribbean. Formoreinformationvisitwww.oceanbreezetours.com rainproof structureofferingbarbecuein Salt WhistleBay,timesshouldgetbetter. ed family,makesuretotellthemthatCaptain Marksentyou.) (They alsoofferMayreau’sonlyring-toss game,whichIdonatedandinstalled!IfyouvisitDebbieherextend- taurant. Theyalsohavechaiselongues and hammocksonthebeach,operateoneoftwotaxisisland. their own,thoughDebbieisoftencalleduponforassistance. while Debbie’srestlesssonandeldestdaughterherbabyarealsoonMayreau, butaretryingtomakeiton seven-year-old cousinnamedLeon:eightinall.A25-year-oldhandyman,Glenmore, isalsopartoftheirteam, the threedaughters,asolidguynamedIcewhoisdatingeldestat-homedaughter, andanadoptedenergetic Black Boyshareawarm,lovingrelationship,Debbieassuresmethattherearenomorekidsforthcoming! become herman,Papawouldalwaysbefamily,sotheyalllivetogetherinPapa’shouse.Whilesheand Papa wasfinished”andaromancewithBlackBoybeganin2004.Itagreedbyallthatwhilewould was knownasBlackBoy,aclever,charismatic,frustratedRastacheftryingtomakelivingawayfromhome. in amakeshifthovelandstruggledtosellhisbarbecuecharterboatsthatvisitedtheidyllicSaltWhistleBay.He to Grenadain2007. she wasofferedworkastheflotillacookandstewardessforSunsailChartersatwo-weektripwithtenyachts throughout theyearsontinyisland.DebbienevertraveledfartherthanSt.Vincent,about30milesnorth,until their timetogether. ported theirgrowingfamily.DebbieborePapa,30yearshersenior,threedaughters,now17,12and8,during people gravitatetowardsher.Shebuiltasmallshedonthebeachandherbarbecue,Papa’sfishing,sup- tourists whoknewhowtofindher.Besidesservinggreatfood,Debbieradiatessomuchwarmthandkindnessthat Government land,andoftenmovingtohighergroundwhenstormsstruckhersmalltabletent. hole toburyitall.Forfiveyears,Debbiesoldvegetablesonthebeach,nextshore,makingsurestay claimed aspotonSaltWhistleBayandworkedhard,cuttingclearingthemangrovesroots,digginglarge established tenyearspriorwhentheEustacefamilydonated21acresforthosewholivedonMayreau.They Debbie andherinfantkidswenttolivewithPapa,hopingescapetheabusehardshipsofruggedSt.Vincent. 1990: therewasnoelectricityontheisland(thatcamein2002),onlythreecars,adirtroad,andworkscarce. where 70percentofthejustover300inhabitantsarerelated,makingfixedrelationshipsalmostnecessary.Itwas fisherman asayouth.Mayreau,barelyonesquaremileinsize,isthesmallestofinhabitedGrenadineislands, take meanyway.IblessMissBrowneveryday.” on thebeachinJune2011,“PapawastoldIonly16andahalf,thatalreadyhadtwochildren,buthe an oldermanfromoneoftheoutislandsandayounggirlSt.Vincent.AsDebbietoldmeduringourinterview from twodifferentmen,whobothabandonedher. did nothavethewherewithaltolookafterherproperly.Beforesheturned17,hadtwochildrenofown, could readorwrite,neitherofwhichshecandotoday.Allthroughchildhood,enduredvariouscaretakerswho all Debbieknowsofthewomanwhopassedwhilegivingherlife. where Theresashouldhavebeen.Debbie’soldersisterbythreeyearstoldherthat“Motherwasnice”,butis newest childsincetherewasnomotheraroundtotakecareofhisgrowingbrood. mother died,onthatfatefuldayinChauncey,St.Vincent&theGrenadines.Herfatherquicklyabandonedhis painful, thoughcurrentlyofferinginspiration. Debbie Hayward: by MarkDenebeim isHerBusiness BBarbecue forBoaters Captain MarkDenebeimofferschartersand iswritingarticlesandhismemoirsaboard Life canstillbeastruggleforDebbieand BlackBoy,butwithanewseasonapproaching,andtheonlysolid Black BoyandDebbie’sBeachBarRestaurantdebutedsevenyearsagounder thestarsandcooltradewinds Their newmergerandeventualsuccesstogetherwastimelywithafullhouseto feed:Debbie,BlackBoy,Papa, When Papareachedhissixties,andwithnapstakingprecedenceoverDebbie’sneeds,shedecidedthat“me Meanwhile, anotherVincentianlookingtoimprovehisstandingbecamehernearbycompetitionin1996.Helived Clothes, shelter,medicines—thingswetakeforgrantedwerehardtofind,muchlesseasilyaffordable, Word ofherculinarytalentssoonspreadandinlieusellingvegetablesDebbiebegancookingforlocals They settledintoPapa’smodestfour-roomhomeonlessthanatenthofanacreinTheVillage,whichhadbeen Papa Hanson,originallyfromBequia,cametoMayreauwhenhewasjustsevenyearsold,andbecameadeep-sea As wascommonatthetime,andisstillquiteprevalenttoday,a“MissBrown”arrangedrelationshipbetween Debbie wasabusedthroughoutherformativeyears,forcingtoabandonanyeducationalpathbeforeshe While inschool,Debbiewasteasedfornothavingamother,addingmorepaintotheemptyplaceherheart Debbie isthefifthandlastchildofamotherwhodiedinchildbirth,April5,1973.wasborn,her The storyofDebbieHaywarddoesnothaveaprettystart.Infact,itwastragic,andmakesthetellingherlife and BlackBoy(below)attheirbeachsidebar Debbie (above)

e i s c

H f that hadrecentlywreckedonthesmall reef infrontoftheres- pump anddoublesink—salvagedfrom oneoftheirbareboats als aswellthefridgeandbarcabinet—completewithfoot donated anabovegroundwatertankandsomebuildingmateri- metal roof,abar,generatorandseveralpicnictables.Sunsail coming toinviteyoudinewiththemonthebeach. yellow runaboutcalled simply as“thebarbecue”.Whenyouenterthebay,lookfor nomic feastpopularinthesouthernGrenadinesandknown bar, GlenmorefixesthingsandBlackBoypreparesthegastro- selections, Papacatchessomeofthelobsterandfish,Icetends daughter cookforthefamilyandindividuallunchdinner lobster andfishbarbecuefortheirclients.Debbieher Moorings, earningexclusivereferraltoBlackBoy’sincredible quickly establishedasteadyrelationshipwithSunsailandthe on Debbie’soriginalbeachspotfromherbasicshed.They o e Earlier thisyeartheybuiltalargefestivestructurewith r r

B . B Fire Power ; itwillbeBlackBoyandIce Sanctuary throughout the OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 . S/V Daniell Storey One thing I soon noticed was the absence of any wives, daughters or girl- One thing I soon noticed was the absence of any wives, me. Martin explained The word “oildown” does not have an appetizing ring to dasheen and With the kettle half filled with layers of sliced breadfruit, three-year-old little Edie stood by his side, enchanted with his machete skills. three-year-old little Edie stood by his side, enchanted with on the property.) Whenfriends (except for two who were manning the small bar a guy thing, the womenI asked about this, I was told that the Laura oildown is the girls serving bever- preferring to stay at home. Very interesting. Aside from sight was Miss Ruby,ages behind the counter, the only other local woman in the activities and occa- who sat quietly in her chair on the periphery watching ventured too close. Misssionally using her walking stick to shoo off any dog that and boys at today’sRuby is mother, aunt or grandmother to the clan of men oildown (excepting Cutty). the coconut and tur- that the name refers to the process where the oils from of the kettle, add- meric, which are laid on top, work their way to the bottom The second explanation ing flavor to each layer of food as it cooks over the fire. the locals, speaking I’ve heard is that the original word was “boildown”, but layer after layer Patois, dropped the “b” some time ago. Today, as I watched kettle, I anticipated of fresh vegetables, and herbs fill the large metal cooking a far more tasty result than its name implied. Above: Cruisers preparing breadfruit for Grenada oildown Left: Sharing a joke while the kettle simmers When all the prepared food had been layered into the kettle, Andy spent a number When all the prepared food had been layered into the Meanwhile, another local man (regrettably, I did not get his name) prepared the While we waited for the oildown to cook, Cutty walked to his home where he har- The first oildown taste test came after 45 minutes of cooking. I happened to be near An oildown is about liming, fellowship and good eats. There’s no hurry. The meal The result? DELICIOUS! Michelle Daniels is cruising the Caribbean aboard pumpkin, it was time to add the meat — small pork pieces (with the thick skin still pumpkin, it was time to add the meat — small pork pieces island celery, seasoning attached) and bone-in chicken pieces seasoned with thyme, pumpkin and cabbage were peppers and chadon beni. More breadfruit, okra, beans, picked from a nearby tree layered on top the meat. A cluster of fresh allspice berries callaloo leaves and freshly were slightly crushed and added to the pot. Chopped grated nutmeg were added next. and turmeric gratings to of minutes power-squeezing the juices from the coconut kettle; the gratings given to extract every last bit of juice. The juice was added to the the animals. dough for dumplings: flour, salt and water. Caribbean dumpling dough is much stiffer than the traditional dumpling dough from back home and it took muscle to mix and knead the dough. Once ready, the dough was formed into six-inch tubular lengths. These were laid in a single layer on top. Enough water was then added to cover the vegetables and dumplings and the kettle was placed over an open fire where it cooked, covered, for 90 minutes. vested some chabeaux and Ceylon mangoes, pineapple and a large stem of the small sweet bananas (or figs as they call them) for us all to sample and take home. Yum! Cutty tried to teach us how to identify the differences between the two mangoes, but the subtle differences eluded most of us. Martin also went to his place and har- vested a large bucket of mangoes, distributing them amongst the cruisers to take home. Another local picked some papayas to give away. I went to get the plastic bag I’d put my plate of brownies in and discovered that some of the local teenage boys had sneakily helped themselves to all of my brownies, retying the bag after completing the snitch! I teased them a bit, but smiled at the thought, thinking a trade of brownies for all this fresh fruit was a good trade for each of us. My bag of bananas, mangoes and papaya grew heavy. the pot at the time so Martin gave me the honors of taste testing. With a long-handled spoon Martin scooped up a bit of the yellow liquid. Yummy! More salt needed, however. With the long-handled spoon Martin scooped out about a quarter of a cup of coarse salt from a wide-mouth jar and handed the spoon back to me. I sprinkled the salt into the oildown and then gently pressed it under the surface of the liquid. Stirring the contents is forbidden — if that’s done, it’s no longer an oildown, but a stew. isn’t ready until almost all the liquid has boiled off, leaving some thick sauce near the bottom of the kettle. Finally, as the sun set and dusk set in, the kettle was pulled off the fire and Cutty filled plates, spooning up a bit from each layer, ensuring that we’d each get a taste of everything. S/V Ticket ) and Michelle ), and Chris ( S/V Tashtego S/V Koolau ) fit right in to the liming scene. ), looking quite dashing in his Panama hat, ), Annette ( M/V Tusen Takk II S/V Bonanza S/V Tusen Takk II ) volunteered to begin the tedious job of grating 16 coconuts and a ), Barb (

) began peeling and slicing the breadfruit. Every now and then Cutty pulled a

by Michelle Daniels

Today’s oildown featured all homegrown vegetables, herbs and spices gathered by An oildown is all about food and fellowship. Rural Grenadians grow a wide variety An oildown is all about food and fellowship. Rural Grenadians Meanwhile, on an adjacent table, Cutty demonstrated how to peel and cut dasheen, Cutty, an institution here in Grenada, whose island Cutty, an institution here When I think about exploring the West Indies from When I think about exploring Food prep was in high gear. But not everyone had his hands in the pot, so to speak. A key ingredient to the oildown (and the reason for its name) is fresh coconut milk. Meanwhile, Martin built the fire over which the large soup kettle would sit and boil while

GRENADA OILDOWN OILDOWN S/V Vision S/V Bonanza

IN LAURA, IN LAURA, SATURDAY SATURDAY Cutty and the two “head chefs”, Martin and Andy. Soon after our arrival the activities began as Cutty demonstrated how to peel and cut the breadfruit, a large, pimply green, balloon-shaped fruit. The interior of the breadfruit is white with a spongy center embedded with small seeds that are not eaten. (If you imagine the ratio of seeds to flesh of a jack-o-lantern pumpkin, you get an idea of the edible to inedible proportion of the breadfruit.) An oildown is “hands on” and with knives ready, Gail ( of local fruits and vegetables on their own land. It’s quite common for a homeowner of local fruits and vegetables on their own land. It’s quite limes, oranges and grapefruit; to have trees of mango, breadfruit, star fruit, coconut, cristophene, okra, beans, as well as plantings of dasheen, pineapple, bananas, even have cinnamon, bay, pumpkin, cabbage, lettuce and herbs. Some homeowners thyme, chadon beni (cilantro), and allspice trees. Fragrant herbs and spices such as garden. lemongrass, and turmeric complement the Grenadian Caribbean Saturday afternoon, 40 cruisers with appetizers or desserts in hand piled Caribbean Saturday afternoon, 40 cruisers with appetizers of Laura, located high on a into three vans and were driven to Cutty’s home village lush mountain slope overlooking the south coast of Grenada. a large tuber vegetable. Roy ( to Ride slice of breadfruit out of the bowl because it did not pass quality control as it had remnants of the spongy center still attached. Cruisers are quick learners, however, and the bowl filled as the pace quickened. tour is second to none, arranged for cruisers to partici- tour is second to none, arranged oildown. On a beautiful pate in his own neighborhood season to season, I liken it to peeling the layers from an season to season, I liken it we’ve seen what there is to onion. Just when we think of the rich and interesting see, we discover another layer it was the traditional out- Caribbean culture. This time event called oildown. door Grenadian gastronomical Relieved of their usual prep duties, some of the community brothers and cousins enjoyed liming on the sidelines. Chuck ( Martin brought out a pail filled with 16 mature coconuts. With his machete, he gave each coconut three or four raps, sufficient enough to crack the shell and create a small hole from which to drink the coconut water. Coconuts passed around and I enjoyed my own refreshing drink of fresh coconut water straight from the source. Andy set up an industrial-sized metal grater. Connie ( large bag of fresh turmeric root. When they tired, Andy took over. Andy and Martin are built like linebackers. It was a hoot watching these two big guys slicing, dicing, peeling and grating. made quick work of prepping the dasheen. While Americans consider green bananas inedible, here in the islands they are an important ingredient in Caribbean cuisine and will be peeled and added to the cooking kettle. There was plenty of work to go around and soon a number of cruisers were helping grate, pare, cut and slice 27 breadfruit, 25 green bananas, four large tubers of dasheen, four bunches of callaloo, eight carrots, a pound or so of green beans, three small cabbages, and a pound or two of okra. ( OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 chitis, cough,andespeciallyasthma.Atea and respiratoryailmentssuchascolds,bron- pulp tomakeadecoctionforseverediarrhea, poisonous. Howeverbushmedicineusesthe calabash andthoughtallwereconsidered The Drifters’‘UndertheBoardwalk’. Stravinsky’s classical‘TheRiteofSpring’to in musicalpiecesrangingfromIgor Caribbean percussioninstrument.Itisused calabash güiroisn’tonlyrecognizedasa blend intothefamous“cha-cha”sound.The That createsfineharmoniousclicksthat across theridges,withafastorslowtempo. and eitherscrapedorrubbedup,down, ible woodsticks,a calabash iscarvedwithgrooves.Asetofflex- of ahollowed-outcalabash.Theoutsidethe HOUSEOFSEAFOOD CHATEAU MYGO tional with afewpebblesorhardseeds.Thetradi- still madefromsmalldriedcalabashesfilled bash, themaracasand percussion instrumentsmadefromthecala- the birds’legsfromunderwater. the birdsandhunterscouldeasilygrab apparently floatingcalabashdidn’tfrighten calabash andwadedintothewater.The ed riverandlakebirds.TheIndiansworethe heads. Thiswascamouflagewhentheyhunt- holes inlargecalabashestopullovertheir that theTaínoIndiansinPuertoRicocuteye- building boats. dles, woodenwagonwheels,andribsfor later byEuropeansforcattleyokes,toolhan- and storagecontainers.Thiswoodwasused and watercontainers,musicalinstruments, gourd-like fruitwasindispensableforcups apple tree,andwovenintobaskets.The ity andcanbeshaved,likethewoodof tools andtoolhandles.Thewoodhaselastic- ropes. Thehardbranchesandtrunkmade bark weretwistedintotwineandwoven priceless tothoseIndians.Fibersfromthe Crescentia cujete and SouthAmerica.Itisuncertainwhere throughout theCaribbean,Mexico,Central Amerindians plantedusefulcalabashtrees island cultures. considerable contributionstoCaribbean vanished. Itisauniquetreethathasmade shameful thatthecalabashtreehasalmost are usedtomakemoredecorativethings.Itis monly usedforfunctionalitems,butinstead ing boatbailer,calabashesarenolongercom- pers todishes.Exceptfortheoccasionalfish- used forallkindsofkitchenware,fromdip- time intheCaribbean,these“boleys”were produces largeroundgourds.Onceupona Marigot Bay, St.LuciaPhone:(758)451-4772 VHF 16 I’ve neverknownanyonetotryandeata The Taínoalsogavethemusicalworldtwo A Benedictinemonkinthe1500sreported Centuries beforeColumbus,Native Most ofus‘oldtimers’knowacalabashtree Free watertaxipickupfrom your yachttoourdock! güiro (alsocalledthefish)ismadeout 5 &more people&Captaineats for free! Free dockingforyachtsdiningwithus! originated.Thistreewas pua , arebandedtogether güiro . Maracasare * Pizzas * Seafood * Steaks on cocktails&beer! All Day &Night Happy Hour THE ULTRA- CALABASH SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL

USEFUL GEORGIE TUSON/[email protected] GEORGIE seven months. fertilized bybats.Thefruitmaturesinabout The blossomsusuallybloomatnightandare that cangrowtoafootormoreindiameter. secondary branches.Theywillproducefruit are long,andspreadoutwardwithalmostno the largebranchesandtrunk.The green bell-shapedblossomshangdirectlyon and bearatthesametime.Thelargelight bash development.Thecalabashwillbloom fertilizer everytwomonthsforsuperiorcala- fertilize withacupof12-12-17-2bearing calabash tree. with anaturalsag.Orchidslovetonestin with afewstrongbranchesthatseemtotwist calabash treesdevelopatleasttwotrunks coarse, aslongitiswelldrained.Most sea blastandtakemostsoilsfromfineto or rootsuckers.Calabashcansurvivesalty the smallflatseedsofadriedfruit,cuttings, able heightandshape.Itcanbegrownfrom about 30feet,andcanbeprunedtoadesir- because itdoesn’tgetreallybig,usually enjoy itforyears. you. Ifyourcalabashisdriedproperly,you’ll natural, paintorvarnishasthespiritmoves plants, orabowltoholdyourkeys.Leave want: agüiroormaracas,vaseforpotted paper untilsmooth.Createwhateveryou Rub boththeexteriorandinteriorwithsand- calabash willappeartobecarvedfromwood. outer skinforaspecialeffect.)Oncedried,the can etchorscrapedesignsinthethingreen tially shadyplacetodry.(Beforedrying,you Scotch pad.Puttheshellinabreezyandpar- a roughbrush,andthenfinishwithgreen the shellinwater,scrubinsidewellwith ‘lid’) andremovingtheseedypulp.Thensoak by cuttinganaccesshole(andkeepingthe kets, orcreateyourown. galley. Lookforthemincraftshopsandmar- tive andnaturalCaribbeanadditiontothe ing bowlsarealightweight,durable,attrac- purse orwallart.Forboaters,calabashserv- be transformedintoauniquecontainer, paint, andacoatofvarnish,thecalabashcan utensils. Withabitofcarving,splash high bloodpressure. made fromthistree’sleavesisusedtotreat Water thetreeduringdryseasonand The calabashisagreatbackyardtree For theGardener First, preparethefreshlypickedcalabash varnish (optional) paint (toyourtaste) sandpaper 1 Scotchscrubpad 1 roughscrubbrush 1 bucketwater 1 calabash Calabash Art Today calabasharthasbypassed OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 s s ’ e c d i v r r a e S

h s c St. Lucia m (758) 458-1505

o n Efﬁ cient handling Efﬁ t Yacht Provisioning Yacht Parts - Repairs - Service Fax: FAX: (473) 444 2899 Cell: (758) 484-3170 Tel: (758) 458-1504 Tel: s Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Brokerage services and Brokerage a Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP u l of all your import and export. [email protected] PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] CCustoms Services TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL BBlanchard’s www.blanchardscustomservices.cbt.cc McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA entitled Editor’s Caribbean Caribbean for its map, on . The book is not September edition Caribbean Compass in the September 2011 issue The Caribbean”. I cannot under- “ Caribbean Compass , pointed out that tourism is the , , Caribbean Compass Compass Compass Compass These islands, called the West Indies, generally . What can this malaise be? What has caused this A big hurrah for As the activity wound down following Carriacou wound down following As the activity August next year. Mark your calendar for early “Things are not always what they seem; there is a dif- “Things are not always what at least according toThe Caribbean is defined, Situated largely on the Caribbean Plate, the region The region includes the Antilles, divided into the Clearly when Columbus arrived he was confused. Caribbean Compass The same Even the dean of Caribbean cruising, Don Street, Sir James Mitchell, in his letter in the September I recently received the draft Common Tourism Policy “Cruising South to the Caribbean” and it explained all about how to sail to the Lesser Antilles. Now Don is on in years and has a reputation for eating “green lunches” but even so, he is clearly knowledgeable when it comes to geography. Must have been a “senior moment”! misnomer? Can it be that the tradewinds blow only in the Lesser Antilles? Or that the sun shines only in that part of the Caribbean? Perhaps it is an historical hangover from the days of Columbus that carries forward — or if not historical then perhaps hysterical, in that so many have dreamt so many years about “the islands beneath the sun”. Or perhaps it is too much time at Foxy’s enjoying and imbibing, so much so that they have lost their orientation and as a result no longer know where they are except in broad generalities. high-quality race prizes deep into the fleet in both prizes deep into the high-quality race run by the on the water were efficiently classes. Events Benoit. led by certified official James Race Committee from the along with cruisers Many of the participants, early to boats in Tyrrel Bay, arrived nearly 100 visiting up to regatta Carriacou events leading witness local racing so was a layday for yacht weekend. Sunday local in Hillsborough while watching most partied racing events. Grenadine boat sailed off to GrenadaRegatta Festival 2011, some while many stayed to watchCarnival starting soon after, the Windward Regatta heldthe local boats race again in two weeks later. on the east side of the island Roy Hopper and Susan Tiziani S/V Windborne Dear ference between milk and heavy cream.” I know that aference between milk and heavy a rose, but if we call some- rose by any other name is still what it is, we get confusedthing by a name other than and sort of problems.and that can cause all manner of the Caribbean Sea,Wikipedia, as, “a region consisting enclosed by the sea), andits islands (most of which are region is located southeastthe surrounding coasts. The America, east of Centralof the Gulf of Mexico and North South America.” America, and to the north of comprises more than 7,000 islands, islets, reefs, and cays form island arcs that delineate the eastern and northern edges of the Caribbean Sea. These islands are called the West Indies because when Christopher Columbus landed there in 1492 he believed that he had reached the Indian sub-continent. larger Greater Antilles (Cuba, Jamaica, Hispaniola and Puerto Rico), which bound the Caribbean Sea on the north, and the Lesser Antilles (Leewards and Windwards, and also the ABCs) on the east and south. However, 500 years have passed and we still have confusion over what IS stand why this confusion persists and I am more frus- trated than Fatty Goodlander is when he is told that he has to pay — for whatever! (At least he cannot complain about the guides I write, as they are completely free.) reviewed Les Weatheritt’s updated Passagemaking; A Cruiser’s Guide Caribbean Passagemaking. In fact, it is a passagemaking guide for the Lesser Antilles. I have read the book and it is well written but clearly mistitled. has an ad by the CMA (Caribbean Marine Association). has an ad by the CMA (Caribbean Marine Association). Its slogan is “Many Islands, One Sea” and the ad shows a map of the Lesser Antilles. While I believe the association is an excellent one, it needs to either change its name to the Lesser Antilles Marine Association or change its map and tag line. [ note: Both of these changes are being considered under the CMA’s new Board of Directors.] wrote an article last year for page 3 of every issue, that reflects the entire Caribbean — all 1,000,000 square miles of it! Frank Virgintino www.freecruisingguide.com Dear issue of Eastern Caribbean’s main income earner, so the sala- ries of civil servants are paid in large part by tourist dollars, and that it would be helpful if they realized this and started to run their departments to make things easier for visitors, rather than discouraging them. for the OECS. The figures it gave confirm what Sir James wrote. The total contribution of tourism to the GDP for the OECS nations varies from a low of 24.8 percent (Dominica) to a high of 74.2 percent (Antigua & Barbuda). In total employment, tourism contributes from 45 percent to 69 percent in half the OECS countries. —Continued on next page as see see island Compass]. The Compass’s Compass], and I find

' S R E , M Readers, U D A R Compass . Other times I would go the boatyard parties, of Compass E O PM We would like to congratulate Jerry Stewart and the As a teenager, I was allowed to hang out with my Dear There was a short break after the “Grenada I have known the Spice Island Boatyard in Grenada I have known the Spice Island My Dad started off managing the charter boat com- Editor’s note: We first knew Karen as our friends the But the time had come and after 30 years Mum, The years passed. My brother and I left and Mum FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' sponsors for putting on a great fun cruising yacht regatta during the Carriacou Regatta Festival 2011 [ reported in the September issue of weather was doubtful leading up to the start but cleared to three beautiful sailing days for the 22 yachts participating. Moderate wind, smooth seas and the clear skies guaranteed fun competition on the water, which was followed every evening by fun at great parties ashore. The primary sponsors — Mount Gay, Doyle Sails, Island Water World, Budget Marine, and the community local small businesses — provided friends in L’Anse Aux Epines until closing time at friends in L’Anse Aux Epines until closing time at 6:00 “MAYAG’s News from Grenada” in the Business Briefs “MAYAG’s News from Grenada” in the Business Briefs department of the August issue of Intervention” in 1983, but we found our way back. The boatyard now had new owners. And what were the offices became a restaurant. Dad took the little house on the hill as his office and ran the charter boats for many more years. Mum joined the boatyard with the creation of Essentials Mini Mart, a great business that saw my brother Robert and me through school and university. It was where I made my pocket money working on Sundays, where I met many folks including Ringo Starr, and where I decided that I needed to learn another language as I struggled to understand the foreigners. forever. And my parents, Alan and Shirley Hooper, are forever. And my parents, Alan months ago they retired responsible for this. A few from their business, Essentials Mini Mart [ pany, Spice Island Charters. Alan Hooper was a name known throughout the Grenadines. Everyone came to him, and this is how we met many people from far and wide, famous and not so famous: Chris Doyle in his charter boat days, Bob and Maranne, Mel and Sarah, Vinny, Sally and Tall Tom are the predominant ones for me. As we lived so close to the boatyard, in the house that is now called the Lovely House, Dad kept bringing home the stray yachties for dinner — which my Mum always seemed prepared for. myself estranged, as this is a place that seemed to myself estranged, as this is a place that seemed to belong to us. One of my earliest memories (many, many years ago) was roller-skating through the park- ing lot and down into the yard. In those days the con- crete was rough with potholes — inevitably there were many cuts and scrapes, all attended to by Selwyn Maxwell and a bottle of “mentholated” spirits. agent in Grenada. Hello Hoopers’ adorable tousle-haired toddler. We are now extraordinarily proud that, her father having passed the torch to her a few years ago, Karen is Dad, my brother and I say goodbye to the boatyard. Essentials Mini Mart is still open but has new owners. And the boatyard, well I guess we will visit but now we are just that — visitors. Karen Maaroufi Helvellyn, Grenada and Dad were on their own. Things started to change and Dad were on their own. Things started to change again. Dad retired from the boating business and Sundays in the Mini Market became the weekly hangout for him and his boys, Grenadians and yachties alike. The boatyard changed owners again (it is now Prickly Bay Marina) and Mum and Dad were still there. In the last years it was their grandkids who made their pocket money working on Sundays. which Dad said nothing, probably because the owners which Dad said nothing, probably because the owners of the restaurant, Cleve and Carol, were their great friends and he knew any mischief would be reported. OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 — Dear www.doyleguides.com Yacht TiKanot Chris Doyle being somethingfromthepast. could quicklythinkbackontheideaofepauletsyas would farsoonerwemovedforwardsofastthat letsy” shouldbeincludedintheCaribbeanlexicon.I that willmakethingseasierandmorepleasant. they areverycapableofhelpingcraftnewregulations and thusthepossibilityofincreasedwages,Iamsure expenditure meanslargerrevenuesfortheirnation, sible. Ifofficialscametorealizethatmorevisitor business, andmakeourselvesascompetitivepos- Dear Yacht Samadhi Frank Pearce Yacht BoldlyGo Ellen Birrell on CJSCFacebook. Club; accountnumber521002059. GROAGDGD; accountnameCarriacouJuniorSailing Street, St.George’s,Grenada;swiftaddress tion directlytoGrenadaCo-operativeBank,Church [email protected]. Ormakeageneraldona- financial supporttoaspecificneedbycontacting the developmentoftheseexcellentyoungsailorswith level trainingandcoachingclinics…more.” young sailorsfromotherislands.Wedreamofupper- day hostaninvitationalregattainCarriacouwith Scotia BankOptimistRegattainSt.Thomas,andsome Festival. WewouldalsolovetotravelJune’s2012 invited tosailintheFebruary2012GrenadaSailing help uswitharescueboatandrepairs. support boat,soyachtspeoplepassingthroughcould gloves, etcetera.Wealsooperatewithoutamotorized to regionalevents,lifejackets,books,sailingshirts, sails, advancedtraining,financialsupportfortraveling ing fromallwalksoflife.Theclubneedshulls,rigging, Association, Opti-World,ISAFandpatronsofjuniorsail- order tosail. vice-versa aftersailing.Thechildrenworkhardin slide themdownabambooladderandontothebeach; boats ontoatrolley,cartthemtotheseawall,and storage yardisourbase,butwehavetoloadthe responsible forequipment,safetyandconduct.The with ameritsystem,whichmotivatesthemtobe the waytoabrighterfutureformembers.“Weoperate and buildsmarineskillsself-confidencepaving analytical thinking,teamworkandsportsmanship, racing fleetforthelastfiveyears. Compass], CJSChascomprisedtheentireOptimist in Carriacou. dren agedsevento14yearsoldfromdifferentvillages rently providesweeklysailingtuitionto15localchil- ghies, theCarriacouJuniorSailingClub(CJSC)cur- problem andcontactedthemanufacturer. Forty-eight contacted Ianbymail.Mr.Cowanunderstood the recurred, butwewerenolongerinSt. Lucia.Sowe was verynice.Afterafewmonths the problem Ian Cowan,themanager,changedbad part.That St. Lucia.Wehad,veryquickly,technical problems. bought adinghyatIslandWaterWorldin RodneyBay, about whatisgoodinthearea. sometimes frustratedandwewantthem, too,toknow Compass English andalsoinFrench,becausetheFrench Festival heldeveryAugust[ receives noconsistentfinancialsupport. donor paysforclubgroundsrental,otherwisethe ing forthemwouldbeinvaluable.Ananonymous ensuring itwillstayinexistence,andcoachingtrain- sailors arelearninghowtoruntheclubthemselves, organic way.Nofeesareimposed.Themoreadvanced few activitiesoutsideofschool.Theclubisruninan Sir Jameswaskindenoughtothinkmyterm“epau- It isindeedtimetorealizeweareinthetourism Corporate andindividualdonorswillberecognized You canhelpCJSCrealizethesedreamsandfurther “Rightnowwehavebigdreams.Webeen “We areincommunicationwithGrenadaSailing CJSC DirectorTeenaMariebelievestheclubinstills Using sevenratheroldanddilapidatedOptimistdin- Let’s speakabout“aftersalesservice”.Last yearwe We sendyoutwocopiesofthisletter—thesamein An integralpartoftheAnnualCarriacouRegatta Carriacou childrenhavelimitedopportunitiesand Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass readerswhodon’tspeakEnglishfluentlyare Readers, Readers, see coverageinlastmonth’s

Chers lecteursde Harmoony Nelly andFrançois the yachtieswhoaretoooftencomplaining. need. Thanksagain!Wethinkitisimportanttoinform at hisdoorandhewillreceiveyoutoseewhat want tospeakthemanageryoucanalwaysknock help. Andwithasmilingface! whatever youarelookingfor,someoneiscomingto in toIslandWaterWorldyouaremadewelcome,and the staffhavesameworkethic.Anytimeyoucome isfaction. Thismind-setinamanagerensuresthatall that theycareaboutitandassurethecustomer’ssat- that someprofessionalsarenotonlysellingstuff,but sion ofabrandnewdinghy. hours latertheproblemwassolved:wetookposses- Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityand fairplay. name maybewithheldfromprintat your request. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. address, andawaywecancontactyou(preferablyby Dear [email protected] Formerly of Kathleen andRolandO’Brien Sincerely, are okay. we knewonaboatcalled vide anyinfoaboutthevessel,andwhetherpeople but nooccupants.Wewonderifyourreaderscanpro- grounding theauthoritiesfoundeverythinginorder, onto areef,andwhenboardedshortlyafterthe by localauthorities,wasthatthevesselhaddrifted on itssideinSerranaCay.Subsequentinfo,provided name of sailor inColombia,whichshowasailingvesselbythe Dear Harmoony Nelly etFrançois tains ontunpeutendenceàseplaindre. de teniraucourantlesplaisanciersquandparfoiscer- votre problème. bureau. Ilvousrecevrapouraideràrésoudre vous pouveztoujoursfrapperàlaportedeson Quand vousvoulezparleraudirecteur(manager) aider. Etavecunvisagesouriant! quoi quevouscherchiezquelqu’unvientpour N’importe quandvousentrez:êtesbienvenuset son personneladoptelamêmephilosophiedetravail. du client. vendre, maisqu’ilssepréoccupentdelasatisfaction certains professionnelssontnonseulementlàpour session d’unetoutenouvelleannexe. tard leproblèmeaétérésoluetnousavonsprispos- Il estentréencontactaveclefabricant.48hoursplus Cowan acomprisleproblèmeetnouscrusurparole. sommes entrésencontactavecIanparmail.M. n’étions plusdésormaisàSainteLucie.Doncnous Après quelquesmoisleproblèmeapersisté.Nous vaise partie.C’étaitensoiunedemarchetrèsagréable. Ian Cowan,ledirecteur(manager),achangélamau- avions, trèsrapidement,desproblèmestechniques. Island WaterWorldàRodneyBay(SainteLucie).Nous Another thingveryimportantinthisshop.Whenyou Thank-you toIan.Itisalwaysapleasureknow St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia VC0400 Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Be suretoincludeyourname,boatnameorshoreside We wanttohearfromYOU! We recentlyreceivedacoupleofpicturestakenby Merci àeux.Nousavonspenséqu’ilétaitimportant Une autrechosetrèsimportantedanscemagasin. Cette attitudedudirecteur(manager)faitquetout Merci àIan.C’esttoujoursunplaisirdesavoirqu’un Nous avonsachetél’annéedernièreuneannexeà Parlons “serviceaprèsvente”. Compass Compass Double H S/V M’LadyKathleen Readers, Readers, , fromMississippi.Thevesselislying Compass Double H , , SarahandWalton, OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 50’ Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ 2007 73’ Executive $85,000 Miss Goody Sundeck, Washer/Dryer 43’ 1987 Marine Trading $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000

2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’

2008 50’ Lagoon 2008 50’

1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’

Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-4803 Fax: (340) 779-4803 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. www.stthomasyachts.com Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Compass Point $119,000 Exposure Excellent Condition 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast 38, classic, excellent cond. $78,500 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast 43’ 1976 Gulfstar, Yanmar 75HP,low hrs. AP, $45,000 43’ 1976 Gulfstar, Yanmar 50’ 1978 Nautor MSailer, refit, excellent cruiser $249,000 50’ 1978 Nautor MSailer, refit, 37’ 1977 Tartan, well maintained, stack pack, AP $39,000 37’ 1977 Tartan, well maintained, 26’ 1997 Grady White, cuddy cabin, twin Yamahas $36,000 26’ 1997 Grady White, cuddy 450 Cats, 3 strms $295,000 48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY, 42’ 1984 Present Sundeck, 135HP Ford Lehmans, needs wk $39,000 42’ 1984 Present Sundeck, 40’ 2002 Corinthian 400, Twin Yanmars, Express Cruiser $250,000 40’ 2002 Corinthian 400, Twin ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. 36’ 1993 Prout Snowgoose Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete

Diana and Harold with two of the Bahia Redonda marina cats. Anybody want a cruising kitty? Letter of of Letter Month the Magazine, Compass I guess I wanted people to know that there are special places in the world. Harold I have been meaning to write this for a while. When I search the internet for tips What does it mean to be the keepers of the cats? It means walking around the Harold and I became the keepers of the cats because one day there was no one The cats add so much life to the marina. Everyone enjoys seeing them come out at A little background information is needed. Peter York, one of the owners of Bahia A little background information is needed. Peter York, So how in the world did Harold and I become the de-facto caregivers of the Bahia So how in the world did Harold and I become the de-facto Harold and I like animals, but we are not really “animal people”. We have had pets we are not really “animal people”. We have had pets Harold and I like animals, but My husband, Harold, and I first came to Bahia Redonda back in 2000; we stayed I first came to Bahia Redonda back in 2000; we stayed My husband, Harold, and I have been asked this question by most of the cruisers who visit Bahia Redonda by most of the cruisers who visit Bahia Redonda I have been asked this question “I have never been in a marina like this, have you? A marina that takes care of like this, have you? A marina that takes care “I have never been in a marina and I have been lucky enough to find this one. on cat care (looking up a solution to the latest problem we have encountered with the marina cats) I see so many sites. I wonder to myself, is there another marina like this one where people give so much love to stray and abandoned cats? Did I mention that Bahia Redonda Marina provides all the cat food? We go through two and a half bags of cat food a week. The marina owners never complain, and even when we said the cats don’t like the cheap stuff, they gladly changed brands to Purina Cat Chow — the only cat food they will eat! Diana Thompson S/V Zephyrus marina at 0600 and at 1600 every day with a container of cat food and a water bottle. It means cleaning each bowl and looking over each cat. Talking to each cat, petting, snuggling and loving each and every cat. Making sure that they have a safe dry place to eat when it rains. Cleaning wounds, breaking up catfights, rescuing cats from the water, from under the dock, from up a palm tree. We have witnessed cats having kittens, nursed cats back to health after they have fallen in the sea and been covered in a oil slick, tended to wounds from catfights, had cats die in our arms and buried them in a grave on the marina site. The cats of Bahia Redonda have changed our lives. We adopted one of the orphans dropped off at the marina. Tigger was left on the dock wearing a little collar and with her own food bowl. She has become a member of our family. And yes, there is cat hair, but it is a small price to pay for so much love. else. All those nice ladies who took turns feeding the cats each day sailed away. feeding time. Even the crustiest old grizzly singlehander can be seen snuggling and petting a marina cat. It is quite a sight to see the guy who never talks to anyone have a one-on-one conversation with Zack, Cleo, Silver or Chocolate. Redonda, told us that when the marina was being built one of the cruisers men- Redonda, told us that when the marina was being built stands for the cats. How long tioned that it might be nice to have pedestal feeding How many cats have there have the cats been here? I guess since the beginning. Every several weeks a kitten been? Hundreds. Currently, we have 15 resident cats. Robinson, the godmother of (or three) appears in front of the Bahia Mini-Mart. Ann tuna and a carton of milk and the cats and owner of the mini-mart, opens a can of mini-mart and the cats sur- cuddles each one. She has a collection container in the generous and with the help of vive on donations. Luckily, the cruising community is that stay in the marina are a bake sale or two the cats continue to make it. The cats homes for hundreds of kit- spayed or neutered. Ann has been successful in finding tens. When a cat is not adopted, it becomes a resident. Redonda cats? over the years — a couple of dogs and a cat — but never considered having a pet on dogs and a cat — but never considered having a pet over the years — a couple of they deserve a life on land, the boat. We feel sorry for the dogs on boats as we think the odd cat on a boat at smelling grass and running around trees. We have seen all the cat hair? anchor and thought “isn’t that cute” — but what about a week on our way west to Panama. Seven years later, after completing a circum- a week on our way west to to go to Venezuela for the hurricane season. We came navigation, we decided to full, full of American, Canadian and European boats. So Bahia Redonda, which was reservations in advance. We noticed the feeding stands in fact, that you had to make gave them any thought. Someone mentioned that they around the marina, but never We saw several ladies walking around in the mornings were for the “marina cats”. of cat food and a water bottle, but never gave them and afternoons with a container a thought either. Marina in Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. Marina in Puerto La Cruz, cats, like this one does.” Dear OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthenameanddate(s)ofevent www.carlosmatchrace.com 30 –4Dec 30 26 –27 26 –27 25 –27 23 21 www.worldcruising.com/arc 20 19 19 18 –21 www.ponceyachtandfishingclub.com 18 –12 18 16 –20 (JHYC),Antigua.tel(268)770-6172,[email protected], http://website.goldenrockregatta.com 12 –16 www.jhycantigua.com 12 –13 12 –13 www.ponceyachtandfishingclub.com 11 –13 11 –13 10 8 (SMYC),tel(599)544-2075,fax (599)544-2091,[email protected], www.carib1500.com 7 www.smyc.com 5 andHaiti(AllSaints’Day) 4 3 2 1 NOVEMBER www.beyc.com 30 –5Nov www.triskellcup.com 29 -31 29 –30 www.wcmfdominica.com 28 -30 www.bvitourism.com 28 –39 27 26 25 22 –23 andJamaica(NationalHeroes’Day) [email protected] 22 –23 21 andBelize(PanAmericanDay) 17 16 15 12 12 (RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.royalbviyc.org 11 –21 3 2 –8 1 –2 OCTOBER aiba 50rlydprsfo igna S oTroa V. Caribbean1500rallydepartsfromVirginia,USAto Tortola, BVI. BVICharterYachtShow.www.bvicrewedyachts.com/boatshow –11 SOLOptimistChampionship,St.Maarten.MaartenYachtClub PublicholidayinDominica(CommunityDayofService) PublicholidayinDominica(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinHaiti(AllSouls’Day) PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda(Independence Day) PublicholidayinSt.Lucia(ThanksgivingDay) Publicholiday inBarbados(IndependenceDay) Publicholiday inMontserrat(LiberationDay) PublicholidayintheCaymanIslands(RemembranceDay) AtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC)starts,CanaryIslandstoSt.Lucia. Publicholiday inBelize(GarifunaSettlementDay) PegLegs Round TortolaRace,BVI.RBVIYC PublicholidayinHaiti(BattleofVertieresDay) FULL MOON PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago(Diwali) PublicholidayinGrenada(ThanksgivingDay) PublicholidayintheBVI(St.Ursula’sDay) PublicholidayinHaiti(AnniversaryoftheDeathDessalines) BlueFoodFestival(localcuisine),BloodyBay,Tobago WillyTVirgin’sCupRace,BVI.RBVIYC PublicholidayintheBahamas(DiscoveryDay) FULL MOON at thetimethisissueof FREE CaribbeanCompass On-lineFREE BonaireInternationalSailingRegatta.www.bonaireregatta.com and thenamecontactinformation oftheorganizingbody rselCpRgta udlue rselAscain TriskellCupRegatta,Guadeloupe.Association, 15thAnnualWorldCreoleMusicFestival,Dominica. BVISchools’Regatta. RBVIYC J/24BarbadosMatchRacing Championships.www.sailbarbados.com Coursedel’Alliance, St.Martin.www.coursedelalliance.com BarbadosFood&WineandRumFestival.www.foodwinerum.com DiscoverCaribbeanSailingFestival(2ndweekend),Ponce,PuertoRico. St.BarthCataCup(F18catamarans).www.stbarthcatacup.com GoldenRockRegatta,St.MaartentoStatia. JollyHarbourYachtClubRegatta,Antigua. PeteShealsMemorialRegatta,BVI.RBVIYC DiscoverCaribbeanSailingFestival(1stweekend),Ponce,PuertoRico. HeinekenRegattaCuraçao. BarbadosJ/24Invitational.www.sailbarbados.com Foxy’sCatFight(catamaranrace),JostvanDyke,BVI. TrafalgarRegatta,BVI.RBVIYC InterlineRegatta,BVI.TheMoorings,www.moorings.com so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. www.caribbeancompass.com S eat raies ofrneadAM t are. CSA RegattaOrganizers’ConferenceandAGM,St.Maarten. Race andCruisetoJostVanDyke.RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge BitterEndPro-AmRegatta,VirginGorda,BVI.YachtClub, alsAulrMthRc,S.Toa,UV. CarlosAguilarMatchRace,St.Thomas,USVI. If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREE to [email protected] CALENDAR Compass See adonpage12 went topress—butplanschange, two villageshiddenbehindtrees When youtakeitonthislittleislandgoesintoalandfillinthemiddleofone much better.Still....Onthesesmallislands,oneproblemiswheretoputyourtrash. they werejustdumps—smoke,stink,flies,rats,awful.Nowarelandfills, Have youbeentothedumponanyofthesesmallislands?Itwasn’tlongagothat Well, theydon’t. lized countrywhobelievesthatpeopleautomaticallyunderstandthesethings. Everyone knowsthat,right?Andsoinsistedayachtspersonfromnotablycivi- where Ihadlunchthenextday.Theyshouldhaveputitintrashtip/dumpster. waters. Doitatnight. private) gotcaughtdumpingitstrashfromashipdowncurrentofprotected an effectivewaytokeepyachtsandothersoutofbaysthatrichpeopleregardas protecting itsmarineenvironment(bydeclaringsurroundingswatersprotected, aft tothefantaildumptrash”.Morerecently,adecadeago,anislandfamousfor always welloutofsightlandwhentheintercomannounced“Alldepartmentslay nobody canseeyou.FiftyyearsagoaboardtheUSNavyshipIservedon,wewere dures fordealingwithtrashaboardaship:dumpitatnightorinplacewhere so. Thisvesselhadviolatedoneofthemostfundamentalandlongstandingproce- an amazingamountoftrash,trulyawful.Ithoughtsoandotherswhosawit It wasdoneinbroaddaylight.Manyyachtssawit;Ithereandit. of trashintothewatersasmallislandbaythatisalsopopularyachtanchorage. own. “Whathumanityneedsisanentirely newmodelforwhatagoodlifeis.” heard inaverylongtime.Ididn’tcatch who saidit,butthestatementstandsonits that’s trash andstartproducinglesstrash.In fact, weshouldbegintoconsumeless.Now as necessary,sincetheyhavethemanagement, networks,logistics,andmoney. price. And have facilitiestodealwithit.Attheircost...which,ofcourse,wouldbeadded our packed inthecontainerandshippedbacktopeoplewhomadeitpresumably aging fromthelastshipmentanddefunctstuffthatisbeingreplacedshould be responsibility. manuals torelievethemselves(andotherswhomademoneyalongtheway)from the “properdisposal”notethatmanufacturersprintatendofmostinstruction it alreadycontainsrecycledmaterial).Theyevenhavesomeabilitytocomplywith facilities torecyclethepackaging(almostallofitbearsa“recycle”iconandmuch of aging thatimmediatelybecomestrash.Andthedevelopedworldsupposedlyhas the get richoffofthedeviceswebuythatwilleventuallybecometrash,shippedinpack- China, Japan,theCommonwealth,US,Europe,elsewhere.Theyareoneswho eats itup.Almostallofthepackaginganddevicescomefromdevelopedworld: much trash.Mostofwhatisproducedherecanbethrownontheground;nature pening, isgettingworse,andwillhaveseriousconsequences. know anythingaboutitagreethatglobalwarmingcausedbyhumanactivityishap- more andenergyevennowthat90-somepercentofcrediblescientistswho mon. Nowadaysthatsortofconductisasinappropriateas,say,continuingto use and thepeopleashorehavebeendoingforthousandsofyears?Well,newtimes, in anhour,noproblemforthisislandanymore?Like(Ipresume)sailors,fishermen, another extratinypuffofgreenhousegasses. hire atrucktotakeitthedump.Allprettystraightforward,somehassleandcost, case, sinceitwasenoughtofilladumpster,arrangetaketheshipdocksideand it mightbe,taketothedock,handup,andcarrydumpster.Orinthis An AlternateView What elsemighthavebeendone?Itwasclearandsimpleenoughtothecook An incidentwasreportedinJuly’sForumofalocalshipdumpinglargeamount While I’mofferingcrackpotideas,letme repeatthemostintelligentthingthatI’ve Realistically, andthisisjustdreaming, we shouldstopproducingmoreand Here’s whatshouldhappen.Whenacontainerofnewstuffisunloaded,thepack- Still, here’sathoughtonthetrashwhereIam.Thesesmallislandsdon’tgenerate So maybenotallproblemshaveconvenientsolutions. Put itinthedump...whereshouldbe?Asopposedtooverrail,outofsight So whatthisvesselshouldhavedoneistoloaditintotheirtender,howevermessy dreaming. they shouldarrangeitall,includinghiringandtraininglocalcontractors WHAT’S ONMYMIND by JamesLord OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

grenada • jewelry • jewelry Book it now: just steps from the carenage for your boat, home + friends THIS COULD BE [email protected] young street st. george's • rare exotic arts + crafts YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 or contact your local island agent [email protected] Le Marin, Martinique • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts Shipchandler, Artimer tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] continued on next page R NT

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• NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • Marine/Land Moorings available VHF 68 “KMS” Mechanical Service • Diesel / Outboard repair • Welding / Electrical • Refrigeration [email protected] appointed agents in PORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) EU-VAT (16%) importation (16%) EU-VAT Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 Antifouling, Thinners www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Tel: 784 458 3319 • Fax: 784 458 3000 Email: [email protected] Providing all vital servicesProviding to St. Vincent & the Grenadines for MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat,

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rests among Read in Next Month’s Read in Next Month’s Continued from page 10 You don’t need to be a seabird For more information expert to participate. Have you experienced a seabird following your wake? Discovered a rookery along a rocky cliff? Hosted tired migrants on your deck? If you’re on the water, even only a few miles from shore, your observations are valuable. visit www.birdingaboard.com. Caribbean Eco News — OCTOBER 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 com/venus46forsale [email protected] Caribbean.US$108,000 E-mail: anywhere southern and readytocruise,delivery aluminum. Fullyequipped 1989. Professionallybuiltin 39’ LAVRANOS [email protected] Grenada. £30,000.E-mail with manyextras.Lying pit sloop.Readytocruise Cruising yacht,centercock- 42' TYLERSLIPPER1979 [email protected] USD 189,999E-mail start cruisingtomorrow. in Trinidad.Readyforyouto Caribbean andnowlocated tained. Sailedthroughoutthe single owner,lovinglymain- CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE (596) 696907429 Email [email protected]: OFFER!! LyingStLucia. US$179,000 orMAKEUSAN more. Fullspecsat Solar Panels,WindGenerator& EPIRB, SSB,WaterMaker,Air-Con, er. GPS,RADAR,VHF,AutoPilot, excellent liveaboardandcruis- fiberglass, vgc,newengine2007, YOUNG SUN46ftVENUS1984KETCH Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 2009HUNTER45DS239.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000GBP 1987IRWIN44MKII119.500US 2001BAVARIA40/388.500US 1999BAVARIA38/355.000US 1997OCEANIS36CC61.000US 1982CATALINA3217.000US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN P# DETSR OAIN PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aaaMtl CW 14 40 29 MP MP Guadeloupe 20 MP 41 St.Lucia Martinique Trinidad 34 C/W Chateau MygoRestaurant 7 Martinique 2 Caribbean PropellersLtd. Trinidad MP Caribbean MarineElectrical Tortola SintMaarten Caraibe Yachts Grenada Caraibe Greement 38 MP Caraibe Greement USA Canada Metals Bequia MP Camper &Nicholsons MP BVI YachtSales Trinidad Grenada Budget Marine Blue WaterSailing 15 26 PetiteMartinique Antigua Blanchards Trinidad Bequia Venture 10 Bay IslandYachts St.Vincent 40 Dominican Rep Barrow Sails&Canvas Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Grenada Art Fabrik Art &Design Adventure HighSchool A BlueHorizon BOATS FORSALE 1988 Center cockpit, 1988 Centercockpit, Customs Services Fast cruiser Fast cruiser www.freewebs.

t ui 39 St. Lucia (NL)/+507 6615-7289Panama zonnet.nl Tel:(31)655155907 E-mail cochisestellendam@ Currently storedinTrinidad. choice forlargerworldcruiser. US$30,000 becauseofowner’s extras. Interestingpriceof Yanmar engineandmany rigging, largesailwardrobe, hauled, newmastandrod ing (6-8berths)Ext.over- sail forcruisingandclubrac- owner. Greatyacht,easyto and attentionbyanew years, andinneedofcare ble, wellmaintainedover J/39 1991 [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3962E-mail cabins. LyingBequia. Windgen, sleepssix,2ensuite new main2005,Autohelm, 75hp. Forddieselnew2002, tre cockpitbluewatercruiser, cutter sloop.Substantialcen- YOUNG SUN43FT www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD [email protected] Tel: 473-416-0067E-mail tains chair.EC$60,000 anchor, chainandrope,cap- fire extinguisher,WestMarine switch panel,15lifejackets, gps, vhfradio,electronic stroke,100 gls.fuelcapacity. Yamaha 115hp,Enduro2 beam: 8ft,draft:2’,2x2000, fiberglass roof,loa:32feet, Fiberglass, aluminiumT-top& BOWEN MARINEPIROGUE, [email protected] Tel (784)457-4477E-mail Excellent Condition BOWEN 28FT/DIVEBOAT42FT Fastandcomforta- Masthead Masthead US$77,000 US$77,000 oe aiie t ri 40 MP 16 St.Croix 27 12 48 Bequia St.Lucia 23 MP SintMaarten UK28/36 MP 36 Kerry MarineServices Curaçao MP Bequia Jones Maritime Grenada Johnson Hardware 34 St.Vincent St.Lucia Island WaterWorld Grenada Iolaire Enterprises 29 Trinidad Heineken Regatta Grenadines Sails Grenada Marine C/W Gourmet Foods 4 Golden Taste 31 C/W Gittens Engines MP 39 11 Free CruisingGuides Food Fair International Electropics Trinidad MP Martinique Curaçao Tortola Edward WilliamInsurance Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Doyle's Guides Carriacou MP Doyle OffshoreSails Down IslandRealEstate Curaçao Marine Clippers Ship

[email protected] (599) 5816334E-mail St. Maarten.US$205,000Tel; 2008/9, Manyextras,located Honda 50hp,NorthSails Cruiser-racer w/trailer. CORSAIR 36TRIMARAN2006 [email protected] Bryan Tel:(246)241-3035 Barbados Y.C.US$10,000 England, 8hpYamaha,lying CONTESSA 261970 feature.phtml?id=209778 www.apolloduck.com/ Details andPhotos:http:// [email protected] Tel: (472)414-5512E-mail: after purchase.$265,000USD or theEastCoastofUSA any EasternCaribbeanIsland are willingtodeliverher Lying inGrenada,theowners 3 Cabins.Neverincharter. and comfort.Owner’sversion; live-aboard cruisinginsafety outfitted withequipmentfor 2000 “Tranquila”.Completely 380 LAGOONCATAMARAN E-mail: [email protected] Grenada based,US$95K, genoa. Lowenginehours. sail. Harkenfurlerwithnew New mainmast,boomand Well maintained/restored. yawl “BRETTASHLEY”,GRP. 40’ RHODES OFFSHORE/EMPIRE [email protected] many years.US$49,000E-mail: cessful daysailboatsinBVIfor 3 crew.Oneofthemostsuc- licensed for30passengersand CATAMARAN 46' SPRONKDAYCHARTER , award winning 3 cabin , awardwinning3cabin ADVERTISERS INDEX . Has . been CLASSIFIEDS , built in , builtin E-mail E-mail

EdwardsYachtSales.com 504-0790 E-mailDoug@ $139,000, CallDougTel:(941) improvements since2008. PILOTHOUSE 1981 50' CHEOYLEEEUROPA (784) 528-7273 excellent conditionTel: 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER www.alleluiaforsale.com For moreinfo: custom steelcutter/sloop. 1990 BRUCEROBERTS434 Barient, Lewmar from US 250, Barient, LewmarfromUS250, from US200,Winches,Barlow, Sail boatprops3blade13"to22" Tohatsu 30HPlongshaftbestoffer bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS 690-220107 sintmaarten.net Tel:(590) E-mail US 35k,contactPatTurner first seasondaysailing.Asking spinnakers, willpayforherself two jibs,oneschreacher,3 sets 10.Brandnewmainsail, sailing boatforDayCharter, "HEINEKEN REGATTA"Great "TRYST" Historic2timewinner 36’ DICKNEWICKTRIMARAN EdwardsYachtSales.com (941) 504-0790E-mail vessel, $175,000,CallDougTel: ics package,extremelyclean LOADED Substantialelectron- 37' TIARAOPEN37001996 e akPit C 21 MP MP MP Martinique 11 MP 5 CW 9 17 Bequia Grenada Trinidad St.Lucia South GrenadaRegatta Aruba Sea Services Tortola MP 41 Sea HawkPaints C/W Rodney BaySails 31 Renaissance Marina 6 Power Boats 8 Grenada 39 Port Hole Perkins Engines MP C/W MP Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement MP Caribbean Oceans Watch 10 Grenada Tortola DominicanRep Northern LightsGenerators MP 13 Neil PrydeSails Bequia Multihull Company Trinidad Azores Mid AtlanticYachtServices Martinique McIntyre Bros.Ltd Martinique BillfishAssoc. Marina Zar-Par C/W Marc OneMarine Lulley's Tackle LIAT Lesson PlansAhoy! withCaterpillardiesels, MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- tropicalwave@ Many Doug@ ,

Tel: (758)4528531 [email protected] [email protected] 0586/495-1849 E-mail tenance. Tel:(284)542- communications andmain- sales, inventory,language, folk, withskillsinmarketing, minded, positive,mature We arelookingforartistic to helpmanagestudio. ing foralive-aboardcouple ARAGORN’S STUDIO TRELLIS BAY,TORTOLA, www.trelliskitchen.posterous.com [email protected] Trellis Bay.E-mail: run anewrestaurantherein who liveaboardayachtto manager/chef combination ing forayoungcouple/ Kitchen/Cybercafe islook- TRELLIS BAY,TORTOLA 365-2379. surfbvi.com orfaxto(360) Please e-mailCVtoesym@ ter knowledgeisessential. ently. Somebasiccompu- speak andreadEnglishflu- have ownhandtools.Must owners’ absence.Must manage theshopin applicant mustbeableto woodworking andGRP.The boat buildingincludingboth rience withvariousformsof a minimumof5yearsexpe- wright. Thepositionrequires time experiencedship- Islands isseekingonefull located intheBritishVirgin TORTOLA Shipwrightfirm (784) 458-3245 Ravine area,variouslots. BEQUIA, MT.PLEASANT [email protected] (596) 596748832E-mail: Price 120000EurosTel: machines (lessthan4years) Martinique. Newsewing Dockyard, LeMarin, 2002 locatedCarenantilles 100m2, establishedsince SAIL-LOFT, UPHOLSTERY Wind Vanebestoffer - bestoffer,AriesCircumnavigator Westerbeke 12,5KW-needsrepair working conditionbestoffer, Yanmar 3HM35Fcompletein BUSINESS FORSALE email: [email protected] Include name,addressandnumbersincount. LAND FORSALE WANTED CLASSIFIEDS accompanying classifiedsareUS$10. Pre-paid bythe15thofmonth. US 50¢PERWORD Line drawings/photos islook- E-mail E-mail aauMrn Vnzea 27 MP Venezuela MP Trinidad MP MP Xanadu Marine Martinique 23 WIND Martinique St.Vincent 35 WIND Martinique MP West PalmHotel 26 Grenada 18 St.Vincent MP Wallilabou Anchorage Grenada Voiles Assistance 19 VirginGorda Virgin GordaYachtHarbour Grenada Carriacou Venezuela Venezuelean MarineSupply PuertoRico Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout MP 47 Turbulence Sails MP Turbulence Sails 41 Tikal Arts&Crafts Technick Grenada Grenada SVG Air St.Thomas Sunbay Marina St. ThomasYachtSales Spice IslandMarine MP Trellis Trellis CW =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages43to45

[email protected] contact MelindaE-mail: Long orshortterm.Fordetails windward sideofMt.Pleasant. house onlargepropertythe wooden one-bedroomeco MT. PLEASANT,BEQUIA Tel (758)452-0147/720-8432 night, allamenities. Marina, St.Lucia.US$30.00per Overlooking RodneyBay RODNEY BAY,2BEDROOMAPT [email protected] rates. Tel:(784)4951177 minimum, excellentlong-term Internet, cableTV.2weeks ning view,coolbreeze. Big verandahandpatio,stun- or 1bedstudioapartment. Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA Tel: (473)443-7581 http://tinyurl.com/3vjz7t2 net, longtermrental.Photos: Tyrrel Bay.2verandas,inter- sparsely furnishedwithviewof 2 BEDROOMAPARTMENT HERMITAGE, CARRIACOU dinghy andproofofownership. yahoo.com withfulldetailsof Republic. E-mail:lostdingy@ 2011, northofDominican DINGHY FOUND Bedeau Tel:(473)442-6200 western sectionwooded.Telfor vated withvariousfruittrees; beach. Easternsectionculti- and 1/2milefromSoubise miles fromGrenvillebyroad Soubise, St.Andrews,11/2 ft. LocatedatTheVillain rood, 19poles).US$1persq/ 150,000 sq/ft(3acres,1 GRENADA www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern multi-acre tracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, is ontheInternet Your Classiﬁ LOST &FOUND RENTALS Approx.area , early March , earlyMarch Lots and ed email: email: New, New,

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