MASTER NEGATIVE NO. 93-81605- Y MICROFILMED 1 993 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES/NEW YORK
/ as part of the "Foundations of Western Civilization Preservation Project''
Funded by the NATIONAL ENDOWMENT FOR THE HUMANITIES
Reproductions may not be made without permission from Columbia University Library COPYRIGHT STATEMENT
The copyright law of the United States - Title 17, United photocopies or States Code - concerns the making of other reproductions of copyrighted material. and Under certain conditions specified in the law, libraries or other archives are authorized to furnish a photocopy the reproduction. One of these specified conditions is that for any photocopy or other reproduction is not to be "used purpose other than private study, scholarship, or for, or later uses, a research." If a user makes a request photocopy or reproduction for purposes in excess of fair infringement. use," that user may be liable for copyright
a This institution reserves the right to refuse to accept fulfillment of the order copy order if, in its judgement, would involve violation of the copyright law. AUTHOR: VAUX, WILLIAM SANDYS WRIGHT
TITLE: GREEK CITIES ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR PLACE: LONDON DA TE: 1877 ' Master Negative #
COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES PRESERVATION DEPARTMENT BIBLIOGRAPHIC MTCROFORM TAR^FT
Original Material as Filmed - Existing Bibliographic Record
m^m i»
884.7 !! V46 Vaux, V7aiion Sandys Wright, 1818-1885. ' Ancient history from the monuments. Greek cities I i and islands of Asia Minor, by W. S. W. Vaux... ' ,' London, Society for promoting Christian knowledce." ! 1877.
188. p. plate illus. 17 cm.
^iH2n KJ
Restrictions on Use:
TECHNICAL MICROFORM DATA i? FILM SIZE: 3 S'^y^/"^ REDUCTION IMAGE RATIO: J^/ PLACEMENT: lA UA) iB . IIB 2^TE FILMED: _^^3___ INITIALS //^"" HLMEDBY: RESEARCH PUBLICATIOMf;. INC WOnnBRrPGirCT" / D i
Association for Information and Image Management 1100 Wayne Avenue, Suite 1100 Silver Spring, Maryland 20910 301/587-8202
Centimeter 10 11 12 13 14 15 mm 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
mI|II|Im^ iiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiiiiiiiiLiIiimLiI||mLiI[ImI II|I[II|Ij|
| TT I I
1 2 3 Inches m 1^ 2.5 1.0 — 2.2 6.3 3.6 171
4.0 2.0 IL°
1.8
1.25 1.4 1.6
MRNUFRCTURED TO RUM STRNDRRDS BY APPLIED IMRGE, INC.
•Olase g g47 BOO. Y4-G) Columbia College Library
Madison Av. 8c 49th St. Nefr York.
Beside ike main topic this book also treats o/
Subject No. On page Stibject No. On page :
ANCIENT HISTORY
FROM THE MONUMENTS.
GREEK CITIES & ISLANDS
OF
ASIA MINOR
BY
W. SJ-Wr^AUX, M.A., F.R.S.
rUBI.ISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION APPOINTED BV THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.^
LONDON
^otuivi for ^romolmg Christian Jinobkbigc.
Sold at the Depositories, 77i Great Queen Street, Lincoln's-Inn Fields; Royal 4, Exchange ; 48, Piccadilly ; And hy all Booksellers.
1877. 1
>a
' 1
CONTENTS. ^'1 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS \i OF ASIA MINOR.
CHAPTER I. -•o*- Introduction — Cyzicus — Lampsacus — Abydus — Assiis — Palce-Scepsis — Troy — Dr. Schliemann — Ilium Novum— Alexandria—Troas—Pergamum or Pergamus—Aeolis. Page i CHAPTER 1.
CHAPTER II. INTRODUCTION. Phoccea—Smyrna —Clazomense— Erythrae—Teos— Colophon— Cyzicus—Lampsacus—Abydus—Assus—Palse-Scepsis- Troy— Ephesus — Mr. Wood — Miletus — Branchid^ or Didyma— Dr. Schliemann—Ilium Novum—Alexandria— Sacred Way—Mr. Newton—Thyateira—Magnesia ad Sipylum Troas Per- gamum or Pergamus — Philadelphia — Tralles — Sardes — Halicamassus— Mauso- —Aeolis. leum—Cnidus—Demeter—Lion-Tomb—Mr. Pullan—Physcus Before we proceed to give —Caunus—Stratonicea—Aphrodisias—Mylasa and Labranda. a somewhat detailed account Page 34 of the more important cities of Asia Minor, CHAPTER III. and of the islands adjacent to its west and southern Xanthus— Sir Charles Fellows—Telmessus—Patara—Pinara— shores, we may mention that Asia Minor, as it Myra—Tlos and Antiphellus—Attalia— Perge—Eurymedon lies on the map, exhibits, in its —Aspendus — Side — Termessus — Cremna — Sagalassus — contour, a remark- Selge —Antioch of Pisidia —Tarsus — Coracesium — Laertes able resemblance to Spain. Extending between — Selinus — Anemurium — Celenderis— Seleuceia— Corycus N. Lat. 36° and 42°, and E. Long. 26° and 40°, it —Soli— Adana — Mallus — Mopsuestia—Anazarbus— Issus. is about the Page S6 same size as France, and somewhat less than Spain CHAPTER IV. and Portugal taken together. Its in- Isaura—Iconium—Lystra—Derbe—ApameaCibotus—Aezani— terior consists of a central plateau, rarely lower than Synnada—Philomelium— Laodicea Combusta—Hierapolis— 3,000ft. above the sea, often much more; many Laodicea ad Lycum—Colossie—Ancyra—Pessinus—Tavium —Nazianzus—Caesarea ad Argoeum— portions of it, however, especially to the N. Tyana—Comana—Tra- II and E., pezus—Amastris— Sinope— Prusa ad affording Olympum— Niccea- excellent pasturage for sheep, and, there- Nicomedia — Islands of Greece— Lesbos— Samos— Chios— fore, now, as for centuries, Rhodus—Messrs. Biliotti and Saltzmann—Cyprus—Mr. Lang the natural home of the —General Palma di Cesnola Page 124 Turkoman shepherds. At the S.W. CPIAPTER V. end of Asia Minor terminates, also, the great central St. Paul mountain-range of Asia itself, which. .Page 172 ; ;
2 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 3 running from the Brahmaputra westwards, connects and, following this order, we take first Mysia and the Himalayas and the Caucasus. its chief town, Cyzicus (the Esquize of mediaeval Many of the streams flowing from these mountains times), which was situated on the neck of a peninsula are heavily charged with lime; hence the remarkable running out into the Sea of Marmora. Mr. Hamilton deposits of travertine, &c., to be seen at Hiera- describes its position as "a sandy isthmus, having polis and elsewhere. Indeed, to the geological near its southern end many large blocks of stone, features of the country we owe the fact that the not, improbably, the remains of Strabo's "bridge." military commercial routes through and Asia Minor Many ancient monuments may still be traced among always nearly the same, have been the earliest and its present cherry-orchards, attesting its original mag- latest conquerors having followed the the same roads. nitude and magnificence, most of the relics now present produce of Asia is The Minor almost in- visible being Roman, and its destruction having, no significant when considered with reference to its geo- doubt, been mainly due to the great earthquakes in the graphical area, and to the great wealth extracted from reign of Tiberius and Aurelius, which ruined and it the by Romans (Cic. pro Leg. Manil. 2). But every depopulated so many other of the fairest towns of land, alike, decays under the oppressive and unintel- Asia Minor.^ ligent rule of the Osmanlis of Constantinople. The Mr. Hamilton, indeed, noting the loose and rubbly name, Asia Minor, we may add, is comparatively character of its buildings, doubts the architectural modem, and is not met with earlier than Orosius, fame of the city; but it is probable that what we in the fifth century A.D., while that of Anatolia now see was once cased with marble, as much fine (AvciToXi]) is used first by Constantinus Porphyro- marble is found in the adjacent hills. Some, too, of genitus, in the tenth century A.D. its buildings are of a granite easily disintegrable. The chief provinces of Asia Minor (omitting the Any how, it would seem to be a place where well- smaller subdivisions of Ionia, ^olis, and Troas, in- conducted excavations might bring to light many cluded, as these latter are usually, under Mysia and curious relics of the past. Cyzicus was classed by Lydia) are the following : Mysia, — Lydia, Caria, to Anaximenes of Lampsacus among the colonies of the W., and fronting the ^gean Sea; Lycia, Pam- Miletus, but was not of importance till the close phylia, and Cilicia, opposite to Crete and Cyprus;
Bithynia, Paphlagonia, and Pontus, ^ on the Black Tacitus, speaking of A.D. 17, the 4th of Tiberius, says :— *' Sea ; and, in the centre, Pisidia and Lycaonia, Phry- Eodem anno duodecim celebres Asiae urbes coUapsae noctumo
motu terras ( Annal. ii. gia, Galatia and Cappadocia. " c. 47) : and Cicero speaks of Cyzicus as "urbem Asiae celeberrimam nobisque amicissimam." Compare We propose to notice the more important towns, also Apoll. Rhod. i. 936-94i» 983-987 ; Valer. Max. ii. 630 according to the order of the provinces just recited Ovid. Trist. i. 9. E 2 ' j ;
GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOK.
of the Peloponnesian war, when, by the discredit- (Hierocl. Synecd. p. 661. IMalala, Chron. i. p. 364). able peace of Antalcidas, it was surrendered to the It was finally destroyed by an earthquake in A.D. 943. Persians, its ultimate prosperity being in great measure Another Mysian town of note was Lampsacus, also due to its position, as a natural entrepot, between the a colony of Miletus and Phocaea, attested as this is by* Black a statue of a prostrate Sea and the ^gean. In Roman times it was, its gold and silver coins, and by according to Strabo, a " Libera civitas," and, with the lion, said to have been the work of Lysippus, and sub- exception of Nicomedia and Nicaea, the most im- sequently, placed by Agrippa in the Campus Martins i portant city in that part of Asia Minor. In the days at Rome. The town was famous for its wine, and was, of Caracalla it had become a "Metropolis," and, for this reason, granted to Themistocles, who is said still later, was an Episcopal see. to have learnt here, or at Magnesia, Persian in a year Of the great wealth and, we may perhaps add, of the district around having been granted to him by of the the popularity of its citizens in the fifth and fourth his old enemy the King of Persia. Like most hands century B.C., the gold coins, called Cyzicene staters, towns of western Asia Minor, it often changed are powerful neigh- ample evidence; though it may be doubted during the rival contests of its more whether, forethought, voted a as was once thought, the zecchino (or bours ; but, having, with a wise sequin), means Cyzicene. In an able paper by Dr. crown of gold to the Romans, it was accepted by them Strabo, (now Sir Patrick) Colquhoun (Trans. Roy. Liter, vol. as an ally,^ and, hence, was, in the time of iv. is clearly a town of some magnitude. small village, called p. 35)rit shown that the '' Squtse" oi A Ville-Hardouin is the ancient Cyzicus, "the oldest Lampsaki, most likely marks on our modem maps the commercial place in the world," as that writer, with site of the old town. Abydus, some exaggeration, asserts. TJhe form " Esquisse " is A little to the south of Lampsacus was probably, as Dr. Colquhoun suggests, a corruption of at the narrowest part of the Hellespont, and oppo- ilg Kv^iKov (" to Cyzicus ").i Dr. Colquhoun's paper site the town of Sestus.^ It was a little above is full of curious information on the early mediaeval Abydus that Xerxes constructed his famous bridge, state of this part of Asia Minor. Its decline was mainly * Liv. xliii. 6. Most likely, its brave resistance to Antiochus due to the invasion of the Goths in A.D. 262, but it long had favourably inclined the Romans to it (Liv. xxxiii. 38 ; xxxv. remained the metropolis of the Hellespontine province 42. Polyb. xxi. 10). ^ The average breadth of the Hellespont was about three miles— rather narrow for Homer's TrXarvc, "the broad." He, * Similar modem modifications may be noticed in other sites probably, however, looked on it rather as a mighty river ; to of the Levant. Thus, Stanchio (Kos) comes from hq rr]v Kwi/ which, indeed, his epithets of aydppoog and airdpup ("strong- Stamboul is not, necessarily, a corruption of Constantinopolis, flowing," and " boundlesb ") well enough apply. Herodotus but, *' more probably, of a'c rj)i/ iroKiv (to the city ") ; so Stali- calls it doXipbg and aXfivpog rcoranog, *'a treacherous and mene (Lesbos) (" comes from «ic rov Xifisva to the port "). " unsavoury river (vii. 35). —
l1'
6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 7
B.C. but, 480 ; except for the gallant resistance it least, of ruins are still remarkably perfect, one gate at made to Philip, son of Demetrius, king of Macedon, triangular construction, resembling those at Mycenae Abydus has no place in history. In legendary and Arpinum. There are, also, vestiges of a hexa- lore, however, it was the scene of the famous swim- style Doric temple, showing some analogy with those ming of Leander to visit his lady-love, the Priestess at Psestum. Seventeen large fragments from the of the Temple at Sestus, on the opposite or European metopes and two fagades of the Temple were ulti- !l shore, a natatory feat, however, far surpassed in mately removed to France by Capt. Chaigneau, recent days. Lord Byron's lines on the subject are together with a Doric capital. They were found scat- well known : tered over the slope of the hill, and must have been He could, perhaps, have pass'd the Hellespont, removed at some rime or the other, probably for As once (a feat on which ourselves we prided) pieces building purposes ; indeed, fragments of similar Leander, Mr. Ekenhead, and I did. were also noticed in some of the neighbouring Dop. Juan, Cant. ii. 105. In character of workmanship, the sculp- Leander's houses. labour, however, was greater than that of resemble the ^ginetan marbles now at the the tures poet or his companion, in that he swam against Museum. But their execurion is not so effec- the stream British to reach Sestus, the current being often so material of which they are made being the powerful tive, the that a well-manned boat cannot be pulled coarse red stone of the neighbourhood. To the same straight across it. not cause is, perhaps, due the fact that they had A little further down the coast, and facing nearly been carried away long ago. Had they been of fine due south, is Assus, a site which has been visited marble, they would have been valuable plunder. Sir by many traveUers, as Walpole, Choiseul-Gouffier, speaking of Assus, says, "After Raoul-Rochette, Charies Fellows, Fellows, and Pullan. The most an- baggage, I took the most intelligent cient monuments depositing my of Greek art in the Louvre at Paris were removed Turk in the place as my cicerone • thence. The position of the chief build- Immediately around me were the ruins, extending ings is very grand ; indeed, in Strabo's time, Assus for miles, undisturbed by any living creature was considered as a fortress almost inaccessible. 1 Its except the goats and kids. On every side lay ' The character of the position of Assus led to a joke of the columns, triglyphs and friezes, of beautiful sculpture, musician Stratonicus, who applied to it a line of Homer (II. vii. of the grandeur of this ancient playing every object speaking 144), on the meaning of the word 'Aaaoi/, viz. city. In one place I saw thirty Doric capitals placed 'Affffov ie\ wg K€v Baaaov dXsBpov TTEipaO' 'Uriai, up in a line for a fence." Sir Charies Fellows gives Come more quickly (or come to Assus), "that ye may the more a drawing of one of the friezes now in Paris, and quickly come to utter destruction." At Assus, St. Luke, and of other companions of adds, " I then entered the Via Sacra, or Street St. Paul, rejoined him with their ship, the AposUehaving walked on foot from for miles. Some of these tombs Alexandria Troas (Acts xx. 13). Tombs, extending 8 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 9
Still Stand in their original beautiful forms, but most was manifested by an oak having fixed its roots in the have been opened, and the lids are lying near the wall, and by its trunk having grown to a girth of 530 walls they covered, curiosity or avarice having been centimetres (about 17 feet). On reference to Strabo, satisfied by displacing them I first became aware that I had discovered, probably, These ruins are on a considerably larger scale than the most ancient ruin in Asia Minor, for I hold that those of the Roman city, and many of the remains this can be no other than Palae-Scepsis." The evi- are equally perfect. Several are highly ornamented dence adduced by Drs. Mordtmann and Colquhoun and have later of inscriptions ; others are as large as a temple, confirms the accuracy of Strabo. The town being twenty there, during to thirty feet square ; the usual height Scepsis is memorable for the discovery of the sarcophagus is from ten to twelve feet." i the time of Sylla, of the works of Aristotle and Pal^e-Scepsis is interesting for the native tradition, Theophrastus, which had been buried by the illiterate that it was once the capital of ^neas's dominions. relations of one Neleus (a pupil of Aristotle and It appears to have been situated near the source of the friend of Theophrastus), lest they should be carried ^sepus—high up on Mount Ida—the later Scepsis off by Attains, then founding his library at Perga- being about sixty that though preserved stadia (7 J miles) lower down (Strabo, mus. It appears from Strabo, xiii. 607). Dr. Colquhoun 2 states that a village in the from utter ruin, the precious MSS. had suffered
neighbourhood still bears the name of Eski Skisepje, much from damp and worms ; but they suffered still which, as Eski means " old " in Turkish, corresponds more by the injudicious efforts of their purchaser, with Palae-Scepsis ; Dr. Colquhoun at the same time Apellicon of Teos, a well-meaning person, though quotes the words of its discoverer, the distinguished wholly incompetent to supply the gaps he found. Oriental scholar. Dr. Mordtmann. " I did discover," But the most celebrated place in Mysia was the says Dr. " Mordtmann, a most ancient city with its ancient city of Troy. It would be out of place acropolis, towers and walls built of hewn stone, and here, indeed impossible, to discuss any of the various furnished with four gates. The antiquity of the place theories of ancient or modem times referring to this
» The famous town and its no less famous war. It is enough popular story of the " Lapis Assius," with its supposed power of both, destroying the flesh of bodies buried in it (whence the to state here our firm belief in the existence of name sarkophagus, " or flesh-consuming," is noticed by Dioskori- and further, that the legends since grouped around des and Pliny. But this Greek word is rarely used for a tomb, them by no means demand any such non-existence. the more usual word being aopof (soros). By the Romans, how- We have no doubt that a prominent conical hill, now ever, it was used, as in Juv. x. 170. Colonel Leake observes of called Hissarlik, does represent the spot where old the ruins of Assos, *' The whole gives, perhaps, the most perfect idea of a Greek city that anywhere exists " (Asia Minor, Troy once stood.^ The convergency of the various 128). also p. See R. P. PuUan, "Ruins of Asia Minor," p. 19. ^ See Dr. Colquhoun " On the Site of the Palae-Scepsis of ' It has been, justly, we think, remarked (Quarterly Review, Strabo" (Trans. R. S. Liter., vol. iv. 1852). lO GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. II
Stories of ancient history, the existence at Hissarlik The new Ilium oflater days most likely occupied the
of ruins of remote antiquity, and the singular fitness of same traditional site ; the theory of Demetrius of Scep-
the position (unless, indeed, all that is attributed to sis, adopted by Strabo, of two Iliums separated the one Homer is to be condemned as purely mythical), lead from the other by a considerable interval of ground,
to the seemingly inevitable conclusion that here, if being clearly adverse to a common-sense view of anywhere, once stood this celebrated town. the question.! Any one would naturally expect that The inhabitants of Ilium were a mixed population, those who constructed Novum Ilium would select that partly, it is probable, of Thracian origin, and so far place for their town to which the legends most dis-
only Greek that a Pelasgian element may be traced tinctly pointed ; while a manifest objection to the view in both peoples, while they were probably, also, of Demetrius is that it converts Homer from a poet inferior in civilization to the Greeks, with barbaric into a topographer, and attempts to make the natural habits and manners, already obsolete among their features of the country accord with his poetic descrip- more polished enemies. Nor, again, is it at all tions. It is far more probable that Homer, or who- necessary to maintain that the capture of Troy ever collected the poems passing under his name, implies its entire destruction ; it is, indeed, more had but a very general idea of the localities where
• likely that its ultimate ruin was due to the enmity were laid the scenes he describes : while there is, also, of its Asiatic neighbours, as suggested by Strabo on no general agreement as to the true site of Troy the authority of an ancient writer, Xanthus. It among those writers who, in modem times, have is clear that Ilium stood on rising ground, between more or less accepted the theory of Demetrius and the rivers Scamander and Simois, and that here were Strabo. Indeed, on the idea of Homer having written placed the palaces of Priam and of his sons. The his poems with an Ordnance map in his lap, it is whole spot was, we may reasonably conclude, sur- simply impossible to fix on any one spot that satisfies rounded by strong walls, with many gates, only one all the conditions of his story. of which is, however, noticed in Homer by name. We must now notice the recent marvellous re- Such was the tradition, the long endurance of which searches of Dr. Schliemann, for, though they have is shown in the subsequent sacrifice by Xerxes, re- done little towards the revelation of Homer's corded by Herodotus (vii. 43). * The site for ancient Ilium of recent years the most popular
is called Bournarbashi, where the Scamander emerges from the April, 1874), that "not one of the sceptical critics has ever ques- lower ridges of Mount Ida, and, therefore, not far from the tioned that these (the Homeric poems) show an acquaintance * * village of the Ilians. " This view, proposed originally by Che- with the topography of the region which (and this is no small vallier in 1788, and, subsequently, adopted by Rennell, Leake, point) has borne, from all known antiquity, the name of the Welckher, Forchhammer, Choiseul-Gouffier, and others, has, Troad Homer's Ida, and Scamander, and Hellespont are however, been completely answered by Grote, whose arguments as real in his pages as in their existence at the present day." have been fully confirmed by the latest researches. 12 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. i:^
Troy, they have demonstrated that, many feet below which I conceived for them in my first childhood." very ancient and still existing walls, there have As time went on Schliemann became a clerk, though once been enormous structures, the treasury, for- on a yearly salary of only ;^32 : but he contrived to tress, and royal residence of some wealthy ruler of live on half—to do without a fire, and to devote all remote antiquity. While, therefore, we do not his spare moments to the study of languages. Thus believe that Dr. Schliemann has found old Troy, he learnt first English and French, each in six months, in the same sense that Layard discovered the palaces and then other modem tongues, including Russ. of Sardanapalus, the Greek inscriptions he has un- To Dutch, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese he earthed have assuredly proved the identity of the allowed only six weeks each. During the eight years modem Hissarlik with Novum Ilium. What, then, is from 1846 to 1854 he was so much occupied in the history of Schliemann's researches, and what has business that he had no time for literature ; in the he done that any other man might not have done with latter end, however, of the second year he found time as ample means at his command ? Doubtless there are to learn Swedish and Polish. It was not till January,. other men who might have done as much as he, notably 1856, that he ventured to attack Greek, his fear being, Mr. Layard. As Dr. Schliemann was much influenced as he naively remarks, that the fascination of its study by his early education at home, and as his career has might interfere with his commercial duties. Aided been a very extraordinary one, we feel sure our readers however by two Greek friends, he tells us he learnt would like to know something of the digger as well modem Greek in six weeks, and, in three months of as what he has dug out. We purpose, therefore, to more, sufficient classical Greek to understand the give a brief sketch of his personal history, and then, ancient writers, and especially Homer. In 1858 Dr. with equal brevity, to add a notice of what he has Schliemann was able to travel over Sweden, Denmark, accomplished. Germany, Italy, and Egypt, on the way learning some- Born in 1822 at a small village in Mecklenburg, he what of (we presume colloquial) Arabic, and returning tells us that, " as soon as I learnt to speak my father thence through Syria and Athens to St. Petersburg. related to the me great deeds of the Homeric he- It was not, however, till 1863 that he had secured, by roes," and, though from ten years of age he was an his vigorous commercial occupations, the means to apprentice in a warehouse,^ he always retained, as he spend the rest of his life as he pleased. adds, " the same love for the famous men of antiquity His first plan, in 1864, was to visit the fatherland of Ulysses, but this was only a hasty and flying trip, » In this "warehouse," let it not be forgotten, Schliemann and he was, shortly afterwards, induced to extend his was employed from fourteen to twenty years of age, from 5 a.m. to II P.M., sellmg herrmgs, butter, brandy, milk, &c; and that caused by lifting a cask, that he was promoted to the clerkship it. was not till after he had lost this occupation from an injury at the salary mentioned in the text. ;
14 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. IS
journey to India, China, and Japan. On his return story, and this, too, by the only thoroughly effectual to Europe he spent some time in Paris, but made means, the excavation of sites of traditional import- also, thence, journeys to Greece and the plains of ance? Can we withhold our admiration for the Troy, an account of which, written, it would seem, labourer, even though his enthusiasm may have led about 1868, he has given in the first volume of his him to believe all he found was Trojan, the golden recent work. This volume contains, inter alia, the relics, especially, being those of King Priam? and, result of his studies among the " Cyclopean " works after all, what matters the theory of the excavator, so in Argolis, a knowledge of great value to him when the work he does is well done ? As well might we he commenced his more important excavations. He quarrel with Mr. Parker's labours in Rome, because seems also, about this period, to have carefully ex- he has coupled with his most valuable excavations his amined the Troad, and to have satisfied himself own, somewhat fanciful, belief in the personality of a that Hissarlik was the place at which to commence Romulus. Every honest excavation, such as those of his excavations. Having married a Greek lady, in Dr. Schliemann and Mr. Parker, are so many land- every sense a " help-meet " for the work he had set marks recovered from all-destroying time. We can himself to do, he went again to the Troad in the well afford to dispense with or to smile at the fancies sprmg of 1870, and, having secured an ample number of the excavators, so only that a careful record be kept of labourers, continued his excavations there during of what the excavations have really revealed. the greater part of the period between the autumn Dr. Schliemann's account of his diggings, between of 1871 and the summer of 1873. the autumn of 187 1 and June 17, 1873, has been pub- It must not be supposed that this work was one lished in the form of twenty-three letters or memoirs of ease or pleasant toil: he had not the patient a mode of narrative the more pleasant that it places " Chaldeans " who did Layard's behests, still less had the reader au courant with the daily ideas of the he Hormuzd Rassam to settle, as a native only can discoverer, though, necessarily, causing some repeti- settle, the ever-rising disputes between the Greek and tion and not a few corrections. His Introduction, Mussulman " navvies." Indeed, to secure one pave- however, gives a sufficient summary of what he ac- ment from destruction, he had to tell his workmen complished. With the text he has also provided an that by this road "Christ had gone up to visit King atlas of 2 1 7 photographic plates of the plans and ex- Priam " ! The cost, too, cavations was very heavy ; for he had carried on throughout the whole plain of often 150 men in his employment, and expended, Troy, together with representations of between three from his own resources, fully ;^8,ooo. Is it possible and four thousand individual objects discovered. to estimate too highly such These I exertions towards the photographs—not, we regret to say, from the ascertainment of the reality or falsity of ancient originals, but from drawings of them—are wholly in- OF ASIA MINOR. 17 i6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS
V- \ the Pergamum,"^ he concluded that the original Ilium adequate to give any satisfactory idea of the beauty did not spread into the plain, and that its area was or character of the objects themselves. accurately defined by the great wall he afterwards Dr. Schliemann having, as we have stated, made found. In short, he concluded that the city had no up his mind^ that the rising ground now called special Acropolis,^ as feigned by Homer, and that any Hissarlik (or fortress) was the site of Old Troy, com- enlargement of the old town was due to the debris menced his diggings there, on a plateau about 80 gradually thrown down or accumulated around the feet above the level of the plain, with a steep descent base of the small central hill. He adds, rather to the N.E. and N.W. Above this plateau is a portion amusingly, ''I venture to hope that the civilized of ground 26 feet higher, about 925 feet long by 620 world will not only not be vexed that the town of feet wide, which he assumed to be the Pergamum of Priam has shown itself scarcely the twentieth part as Homer, or citadel of Priam. If so, beneath and large as was to be expected from the statements of around this Acropolis must have been the second as the Iliad, but, on the contrary, that, with delight and well as the earlier city. Dr. Schliemann went to work enthusiasm, it will accept the certainty that Ilium did much as miners do when they are " prospecting," only really exist."
on a larger scale : he took soundings of the plain till There is nothing specially remarkable in the small he reached the virgin rock, at a depth never greater " size of the supposed " Troy. It was an ancient custom than 16 feet, at first meeting only with walls of houses to build the town round a central Acropolis where and fragments of pottery of a Greek or even later possible. So was it with Athens and Mycenae, period. As he found nothing else up to the edge of with Rome, Carthage and Mount Zion ; the or- dinary dwellings of * Dr. Schliemann has fully stated in the Augsburg GazetlCy the population for centuries Sept. 26, 1873, l^^s reasons for accepting Hissarlik for Troy, and being huts or small cottages, like the traditional for rejecting Bounarbashi and other sites his reasons, to ; and an Tugiirium of Romulus, buildings which would, na- antiquary^ are weighty : — I. At Bounarbashi, nothing has been turally, leave behind them no traces of their former found earlier than potsherds of the sixth century B.C. 2. Sir J. Lubbock, in the so-called tomb of Hector, found nothing earlier * Tiiis word Pergamum or Pergama, which occurs more than once in than the third century B. C. 3. Von Hahn found neither pot- Asia Minor, notably in the case of the great city of that sherds nor bricks on the north side of the Balidagh, between the name, is probably only another form of the irvpyoc, burg or derg^ which runs Akropolis (of Gergi) and the springs of Bounarbashi. 4. The through so many languages of the Indo-European family. sites examined by Clarke and Barker Webb, and that of Ulrichs, Thus, Sanskr. spiirg ; Gr. Trupy, originally a^v^'^oq or ^vpyoff. So the Gothic bairg-ahei, presented no remains of man. 5. The "village of the Ilians" mountainous ; fairg-uni, mountain. Compare, —
inches. All about, within as well as without, are weighed a wall nearly 6 feet thick and 18 feet high, abundant signs of fire, which must have burnt with built of great stones and earth, and which must have prodigious fury. Dr. Schliemann speaks of many feet belonged to the period next after the destruction of in thickness of red and yellow wood ashes. Here, as Troy. In order to save this treasure from the greed
at Nineveh and at Carthage, the first destruction of my workmen, and to secure it for science, it was haste, and so, seems to have been fire, the great extent of it, in each necessary to use the very greatest " case, having probably arisen from the wooden construc- though it was not yet breakfast-time, I had paidos," tion of the upper portions of these houses. At Nineveh, or resting-time, called out at once. While my work- it has been reasonably supposed that only the foun- men were eating and resting I cut out the treasure dations of the walls were of stone or brick, the upper with a great knife, not without the greatest effort and part, like many Eastern houses at the present day, being the most terrible risk of my life, for the great wall of threatened wholly of wood, which would readily catch fire, and the fortress which I had to undermine, fill the rooms below with burning embers. In several every moment to fall upon me. But the sight of so of the rooms of one of these houses Dr. Schliemann many objects, of which each alone is of inestimable found red jars from 7 to 8 feet high, and, to the east worth to science, made me foolhardy, and I thought of the house, what he assumes to have been a sacri- of no danger. The carrying oft", however, of the trea- help of ficial altar, a slab of granite 5 feet 4 inches long by sures would have been impossible without the stood by ready to pack up the 5 feet 5 inches broad. Such a conflagration, it is my dear wife, who objects in her shawl as I cut them out, and to take likely, would be long remembered ; and it has been acutely asked whether, after all, there may not have them away." lay been an Asiatic Iliad handed down from mouth to We may add that the whole find together the of mouth, of which Homer may have availed himself, as in a quadrangular mass, retaining shape did the mediaeval Minnesingers. the box in which it had been deposited, and that that The next and the greatest of Schliemann's dis- hard by was a large key, presumably which once
locked it. The treasure had, probably, been hastily coveries was also one of his last : we give it in his own words. " In the course of excavations packed, an idea fully sustained by its miscellaneous on the Trojan wall, and in the immediate neigh- character. Indeed, the same thing seems to have bourhood of Priam's house, I lighted on a great happened in the case of the bronze plates found by metal copper object of remarkable form, which attracted Mr. Layard at Nineveh. The mass of precious alone weighing my attention all the more, as I thought I saw gold found is simply astonishing, one cup innum.erable behind. Upon this copper object rested a thick crust 40 oz. of gold, while there were besides, of red ashes and calcined ruins, on which again objects in bronze, silver and gold, spears and axes, 24 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 25
and two-edged daggers, together with a large bronze were found, their remote antiquity might be doubted, all, shield, with a central boss, and a rim raised as if as they might be, after but degraded types of to receive the edges of ox-hides or other covering. a good period of art. Dr. Schliemann, however, Fortunately, the gold vessels had resisted the action maintains that many of these strange owl-headed of fire of clay are representatives of Athene, in fact, the ; some of them having been cast, others objects — hammered; in some cases, too, soldering had been the original type of the yXavKuimQ Oea, the "goddess used. One curious portion of the collection Dr. Schlie- with the bright or flashing eyes," and, also, that mann describes as follows :—" That this treasure was this epithet ought to be now translated the "owl- " " ! though Dr. Schliemann packed," says he, in the greatest haste, is shown by faced goddess But may the contents of the great silver vase, in which I found, urge in favour of his views that, as the worship of quite at the bottom, two splendid golden diadems, a Athene was of Oriental origin, there is no reason fillet for owl- the head, and four most gorgeous and artistic why she should not have been represented as for Nisroch, pendants ear-rings. On them lay fifty-six golden faced, just as we find an eagle-headed a ear-rings and 4,750 little golden rings, perforated hawk-headed Ra, and a ram-headed Ammon, there is, prisms and dice, together with golden buttons and really, no evidence in favour of his theory. Mr. New- " other precious things which belonged to other orna- ton has embraced everything in his remark that the ments. After these, came six golden bracelets, and, conception of the human form as an organic whole, a quite at the top of all, in the silver vase, were two conception we meet with in the very dawn of Greek small golden cups." art, nowhere appears" in Dr. Schliemann's collections, Besides probability being that these objects are of an? these more precious objects. Dr. Schlie- the mann met with antiquity long antecedent to anything Greek, and the a quantity of what, for want of a better name, may work of a people in no way connected with the Greeks. be called idols, consisting of flat pieces of stone, In Greek art, the usual adjunct to most represen- marbles, and terra-cotta, [and, in one instance, coins is in of the vertebra of some antediluvian animal,] tations of Athene on the owl, while containing on (Odyss. iii. Athene leaves Nestor, under one side "an attempt to model a face Homer 372) whether human or owlish." Such objects are not the form of an osprey. It is possible, therefore, rare. In the British that these symbolize a still earlier Museum are many flat pieces metamorphoses of burnt clay, with faith. moulding on them, of the rudest kind, not wholly unlike what Dr. Schliemann found. Having already stated our belief that not only did Dr. Schliemann an Ilium sees in these the original type of or a Troy really exist, but, also, that there the sacred owl of was a real living notice the Minerva,—to say the least,—a very Homer, we need not bold guess. Indeed, but for the place where they objections urged against the opinions of Dr. Schlie- —
26 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 27
mythical a name mann, on the ground that " as the Iliad is a mythical not so long ago that Semiramiswas as that a future poem, it is absurd to expect in it any historical kernel," as King Priam; and who can say a method of reasoning, to say the least, unsatisfactory, Rawlinson may not prove the truth of a Trojan Priam " in ? if not fallacious. There is no conceivable reason why as clearly as that Sammuramit " reigned Nineveh " the most mythical poem may not comprehend con- The dwellers on the rock of Ilion clearly were no real city, with torted images of real events ; the difficulty, in each prehistoric savages," but denizens of a case, and the only real difficulty, being the unravelling its fortress and palace. It is curious that, above the confused stories, which prevent our taking up the Dr. Schliemann's '' Trojans," at a distance of from tangled skein of history. No one supposes the early 23 to 33 feet, dwelt a population who con- legends of the Zendavesta to be history, yet some of structed their houses of small stones and earth, the stations of the migration from N.E. to S.W. can be and, occasionally, of sun-dried bricks. The artistic those below reasonably identified : so, too, no one supposes the remains of this people are inferior to story of Gyges in Herodotus historical, though the them; yet they made coarse pottery, battle-axes, annals of Assur-bani-pal prove the reality of a " Gugu, knives, nails, &c., with a slight use of copper or king of Ludim." The prehistoric theory may be bronze, but with plenty of stone implements. This pressed too far. place, having been destroyed in its turn, another set Of the character of the art of the objects of of people occupied the mound, a race inferior in Dr. Schliemann, or of the date of his wonderful col- civilization to all who had preceded them. These lections, there is, at present, no evidence on which people, it has been suspected, were Cimmerians, to base a reasonable judgment. One thing, however, perhaps, portions of the Nomad tribes, who, we know seems certain; that they are not Greek—nor in from Herodotus and Strabo, constantly made erup- any way connected with Greek art. If among the tions into Asia Minor. vast numbers of objects found, there may be some We must add that, among the various objects found objects resembling others met with in Greece, the by Dr. Schliemann, were some scratches of the rudest natural inference would be that, as so much of Greek kind, on a honestone, from the first supposed to be art is traceable ultimately to Asia, so, too, are letters of some alphabet. The truth of this conjecture these. Nor must we, altogether, ignore the pos- has been recently proved by the persevering study sible effects of commerce. Dr. Schliemann has cer- of Professor Gomperz, of Vienna, who says that, in tainly proved the existence of a wealthy population the comparisons he has made between the Cypriote living on the spot that tradition and history alike alphabet and the Hissarlik inscriptions, "I have not have assigned to Troy; and we cannot doubt that schematized, I have not enlarged or reduced anything. the owners of these remains were pre-Hellenic. It is Every dot, every twist is copied with slavish accuracy ; ;
28 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 29
considerably exercised the from the best Cyprian documents. Nor have 1 the purport of which has learned. Thus they have been allowed myself to be eclectic and to mix letters of imaginations of the sinking nets or weaving different periods and localities." Professor Max called spindles, weights for himself, &c. The Miiller adds, "Accepting these statements of Professor and ex voto tablets by Dr. Schliemann is so great that, if any- Gomperz, I can only repeat my conviction, that his variety of patterns on them ornaments, it is impossible to decipherment of the first inscription Tagoi Dioi seems thing but meaningless
the same purpose ; and to me almost beyond reasonable doubt." The inter- suppose them all for one and of them are unquestionably pretation of the other presumed inscriptions is more the patterns on some much resem- open to doubt. very curious. Thus we have scratches
sacred characters ; others, It is a remarkable fact, as clearly shown by Dr. bling the earliest Chinese
; above all, that commonest Schliemann's researches, that the occupiers of all cleariy astronomical and, Swastika, a cross with arms these strata, alike, were tillers of the ground, while of Buddhist symbols, the angles. the huge jars found standing upright can hardly have curved or straight, and bent at right or Hissariik, which, been used for any other purpose than the storing of With regard to Ilium Novum, occupies the site of the wine, oil, or corn. The quantity of copper found as we have said, we believe whatever doubts may suggests a connection with Cyprus—the island of older city, we must say, that previously to Dr. Schlie- copper—as do, also, the inscriptions just noticed have existed as to this point as the Greek subsequent analysis, however, has thrown doubt on mann's excavations ought now to cease, unquestionably suffi- Dr. Schliemann's idea that his vessels were of pure remains he has found there are identification. How eariy Novum copper.^ The fine red pottery, too, is said to resemble cient for this determined but, very much the existing pottery of Cyprus. The vases Ilium was founded cannot now be ; strength, it is reason- are, however, not painted, nor have any traces of as the place was one of some very soon sculpture been as yet detected. able to suppose it may have been occupied what, however, In concluding these notes on Dr. Schliemann's after the fall of Old Troy, supposing, wholly destroyed. collection, which, from our limited space, have been is not necessary, that Troy was importance, more condensed than we could have wished, we need When Xerxes passed, it was a place of it as a Greek city. only add that, besides the greater and richer monu- and the son of Xerxes recognized sacrificed there, and ments, Dr. Schliemann has found thousands of terra- Alexander, too, like Xerxes, population, notably as cotta disks or wheels, each with a hole in the middle,. bestowed many favours on the occupants of the presumed site of the ancient city * The Romans called their copper from Cjrprus, Cyprium i the same, perhaps with the additional but the name of the island is, more likely, from the Hebrew the Romans did Chopher^ the cypress tree. idea of protecting the traditional site whence they JO GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 3*
claimed their own idea, perhaps, preserved in its present name £ski descent (Liv. xxxvii. 37, xxxviii. an 39)' Sylla and Stamboul. It was thence that St. Paul and St. Luke set Lucullus were, alike, friendly to it and Lucan asserts that, after Pharsalia, Julius C^sar sail for Macedonia (Acts xvi. 11), and here, somewhat (mindful of his presumed ancestor lulus) examined later, the Apostle restored the boy Eutychus to life for himself these localities (cf. App. (Acts XX. 9). Lastly, on rounding Cape Lectum, we Bell. Mithr. c. 53; Pint. Vit. SylL; Strab. xiii. upon a deep and beautiful gulf, where stood the 594; Lucan, ix. 967), at come the same time instituting the " Ludi Trojani," noticed ancient town of Adrafnyttium, according to Strabo, a by Virgil and other writers colony of the Athenians (xiii. 6), but, more probably, (^n. v. 602 ; Suet. C«s 39 ; I^io Cass, xliii. 23).! the creation of Adramys, the brother of Croesus. It Alexandria Troas (in the Acts of the Aposdes was early a place of considerable commerce, for which simply Troas) has nothing really to do with the its admirable position well fitted it (Herod, vii. 42). Trojan legend, but was an important place of com- Subsequently it was given by the Romans to the kings merce in Roman obliterated Mithra- times, and the capital of the sur- of Pergamus, but was almost by rounding district. It was originally founded by dates (Strabo, xiii. p. 614). It was in a ship of Adra- Antigonus,2 and is chiefly memorable for the remark- myttium that St. Paul commenced his voyage from able munificence of a private individual, Herodes Caesarea to Italy to plead his cause before Nero Atticus, who built an immense aqueduct, some traces (Acts xxvii. 2). of which still remain. Suetonius asserts that Julius We come now to a city, Pergamum or Pergamus Caesar once thought indifferently, the latter or of transferring Alexandria in (for the name is used though Egypt to this place, and Zosimus adds that Constan- masculine form is, perhaps, the most common), which, tme had, also, at one fact, that, as great town, it time designed it as the capital of regard being had to the a his Eastern Empire (Suet. Caes. c. was not of remote antiquity, became in later days 79 ; Zosimus, ii. 30); ' The famous Si^ean one of the most celebrated places of antiquity. It inscription (now in the British Museum), was procured by Lord Elgin is colony of the Heraclidae from the porch of the village church said to have been a on the promontory of Sigeum, a little way S. of Hissarlik. For from Arcadia (Pausan. i. 4, 5), and to have been first many years it was supposed to be the oldest of Greek inscriptions ; mentioned as a distinct city by Xenophon (Anab. vii. but It is probably not so old as some of those from Branchidse a fortress of procured by Mr. Newton, 8, 4), grouped, in all probability, round or, as the Greek inscription on the Colossus of Psammetichus at considerable natural strength, whence, indeed, it Abu-Simbel, in Nubia. Its object was to record the presentation derived its of its great- of certain vessels for the use of name. The commencement f the Prytanemm at Sigeum by Phanodicus and Hermocrates a ness was its selection by Lysimachus as his treasure native of Proconnesus. ' city. Lysimachus was succeeded by Philetaerus, and ^ The earliest coins of Alexandria Troas bear the name of Philetaerus II. Antigonia (Sestini. subsequently by Eumenes, Attains Mon. Vet. p. y6). 32 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 33 &c., a family remarkable for its noble deeds, as well as for the proverbial their advent to Asia Minor four generations earlier wealth of many of its members. Thus Attalus than the Ionian migration, and this movement has I., who was proclaimed King of Per- gamus for been supposed to have been contemporary with the his glorious victory over the Gaulish mvaders, was return of the Heracleidae, and may, not improbably, eminent alike for his military skill, and for his political have been, in some degree, caused by it. In com- foresight (Polyb. xviii. 29; Liv. xxxui. mon with the other Greek colonies, the -^olians 21) jn espousing the cause of the Romans. Eumenes 11. no less became subject to Croesus, and, on the success of , than his father, the firm friend of the Romans, Cyrus, were annexed to the Persian empire ; hence, is worthy of record for the great library he formed in the Graeco-Persian war, they contributed sixty at his capital city, held in antiquity to be second only to ships to the armament of Xerxes. The principal that of Alexandria fStrab. xiii.
p. 264 Athen. i. towns of -^olis were Myrina, Cyme, Neontichos, ; 3).! It is said that in this library skms were first and Methymna. They are not, however, of sufficient used for writing on, and that, from the title importance to detain given to these sheets—^* Pergamen^ charts"— us here. Pass we, therefore, to we derive Idm'a. the name of "Parchment" (Varr ap Plm. xiii. ii).2 The last of the Attali, after a reign of five years, dying childless, left his kingdom by his will to the Romans (Strab. xiii. 624, xiv. 646). Mr Arundell gives a picturesque account of his ascent to the citadel, and of the magnificent view thence. Immediately following on Mysia to the S is the great province of Zj'dia, the portion of it fronting the .^gean bearing generally the name of lom'a, with a small district at its N.W. corner, touching Mysia, named .^o/is. It was a popular belief that the Cohans were the first great body of Greek colonist*; to settle in Asia Minor, but, curiously, the name of Cohans does not occur in Homer. Strabo makes
» This library was given by Antony to Cleopatra. - n€pya/x,vi/ xdprtj, or parchment, appears to have been brought into use by Crates of Mallos when Ptolemy cut off the supply of the l>^d/us or the /aj>yrus ree % 34 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 35 it was comparatively late in attaining this eminence. It was situated on a bay of unrivalled beauty and commercial excellence; and, almost alone of the great cities or ports of Western Asia has preserved its CHAPTER 11. eminence to the present day, being now, as it has Phocaea Smyrna Clazomenoe Erythrae Teos Colophon — — — — — long been, the chief emporium of the Levant trade. Ephesus—Mr. Wood—Miletus—Branchidae or Didyma In remote times, Smyrna successfully resisted the Sacred Way—Mr. Newton—Thyateira—Magnesia ad Sipylum attacks of Gyges, king of —Philadelphia — Tralles — Sardes — Halicamassus — Mauso- Lydia, and was, in conse- 1 —leum — Cnidus — Demeter — Lion-Tomb — Mr. Pullan quence, taken and destroyed by his successor, Physcus — Caunus — Stratonicea — Aphrodisias — Mylasa and Alyattes. It is said, that, after this blow, it was nearly Labranda. deserted for 400 years, but was, at length, rebuilt by Phoc^a—the most northern of the Ionian cities Antigonus and Lysimachus, though not exactly on the founded by emigrants from Phocis, under two Athe- same site. With this rebuilding its great prosperity nian chiefs, soon, from the excellence of its harbour, commenced. Nor were the claims to distinction secured a prominent place among the early maritime advanced by itself inferior to its real greatness. states of the world, and was the first to establish Inscriptions abound (some of the best, indeed, among colonies on the Adriatic, the coasts of Etruria, Gaul, the marbles at Oxford), where, as on its coins, it calls itself " and Spain. It is reported that Arganthonius, then lIPilTH ACIAC, the first city of Asia" ; and king of Tartessus (probably Tarshish), did all he so, indeed, it long continued, though at times suffer- could to persuade these enterprising strangers to stay ing severely from civil wars and earthquakes, and most in his land; and that, failing this, he gave them of all from the merciless treatment of Timiir. Smyrna large sums of money to build (or rebuild) the walls of claimed, especially, to be the birthplace of Homer, and their native town. Phocaea is often mentioned sub- dedicated a temple to him. A cave was also shown sequently, though it does not appear to have per- there, in which the poet was said to have composed formed any very memorable actions. It may be traced his verses (Pausan. Ach. 5). Smyrna is not, how- by its coins, and by the annalists and ecclesiastical ever, mentioned by Homer. In the reign of Tibe- writers to the latest period of the Byzantine empire. rius, Smyrna contended with ten other cities for the Indeed, so late as A.D. 142 1, the Genoese built a honour (?) of erecting a temple to that worthless ruler, new town near its ancient site, which still retains the and won the prize ; and here, not many years name of Palaio-Phoggia. later, the Christian Church flourished under Poly- carp, A little further to the S. we come to Smyrna, one its first bishop, who is beheved to have suffered of the most celebrated cities of Asia Minor, though mart>Tdom in its stadium about A.D. i(i(). D 2 — — — CITIES AND ISLANDS 36 GREEK OF ASIA MINOR. 37 a town Next to Smyrna we may take Clazomen^e, nix, and Hermesianax, and, possibly even Homer ; till whose date is probably not earlier than the Ionic migra- at length it was destroyed by Lysimachus : Priene, tion. It was famous as the birth-place of Anaxagoras, the birthplace of the philosopher and statesman Bias, the philosopher, whose disciple Archelaus taught and still identifiable by considerable ruins near the the states Socrates and Euripides ; and, also, as one of Turkish village of Samsoun, to the S. of Mycale, which joined with the Phocseans in founding the with a famous Temple of Minerva Polias, the ruins naval colony of Naucratis in Eg>'pt (Herod, ii. 178). of which have been engraved in the " Ionian Anti- It retained its name and existence till late in the quities." In Chandler's time, about 100 years ago, Byzantine period (Plin. v. 31 ; Ptol. ; Hierocl. Synecd.), the whole circuit of the city walls was still standing. but, towards the middle of the eleventh century, was But of the cities of W. Asia, no one took a higher finally destroyed by the Turks. place than Ephesus ; though not one of the most if not ErythrvE, celebrated as the home of one ancient, or noticed by Homer. Pliny ascribes its life is traceable of two Sibyls—and a town whose origin to the Amazons ; and Strabo gives an excellent by coins and inscriptions to a late period of the account of its site, the chief feature of which was a Roman empire, and, from the acts of Councils and celebrated port called Panormus, with the temple of other ecclesiastical documents, was manifestly for some Diana, one of the Seven Wonders of the world, at a time an episcopal see. Its land produced good wine little distance without the city walls. The worship of [being called in a distich preserved by Athenseus this Diana (of Asiatic origin, and symbolized by her 0fp£<7ra0vXoe 'Epvdpa (Erythra yielding bunches of peculiar statue) was earlier than the planting of the grapes)],^ and fine wheaten flour : Tegs (now Sig- Ionian colony by Androcles, as has been reasonably hajik), the birthplace of Anacreon and of Hecataeus suspected, on a hill called Coressus, the lower ground dedicated the historian ; famous, too, for its temple, (ultimately the chief part of the city) having been pub- to Bacchus, some remains of which have been only gradually built over. After its first colonization recently, more lished by the Society of Dilettanti, and, we hear nothing of Ephesus till the time of Croesus, :— an early fully examined by Mr. Pullan Colophon, who is said to have failed to take the town, owing to flourishing Ionian settlement, once the possessor of a a device of a certain Pindarus, who attached the city navy, and of cavalry reputed victorious wherever em- to the temple by a rope, thus making the intervening Phce- ployed;'-^ and illustrious for its poets, Mimnermus, space sacred, or an asylum. On this the story goes, ' The lines are that Croesus, of all princes then ruling, a lover of the 'Ev £k ip€peoTa(pv\otg 'EpvQpalg Ik K\i(iavov t\9u}V gods, spared, indeed, the city, but showed his com- AsvKOQ a/3paTc OdWujv UpaiQ Tipxpei irapd Suttvov. fTTtOriKtv, Archestr. ap. Athen. iii. 112, B. "he has brought the work to a completion." And, hence, the * From this continued success arose the proverb, rbv KoXotpdva final letters or signature at the end of a book have been termed the colophon. ; 38 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 39 mon sense by changing its constitution and banishing survive the first three centuries of the Roman em- Pindarus. It further appears that Croesus dedicated pire, as the city was sacked by the Goths in A. D. golden bulls at Ephesus, and helped largely in the 262, and its famous temple burnt, an event of which construction of the first temple dedicated there. The some traces have been detected during the recent temple we now know was about 1,400 yards from the excavations on its site. In later days it passed into city, a fact, apparently, not anticipated by the first the hands of the Seljuks and Turks, and a great modem investigators of its site. mosque was built there by Selim I. on the rising The inhabitants of Ephesus, as a rule, were time- ground overlooking the port. The long occupation servers, and ready to court the support of whosoever of the site of Ephesus by a mixed population is for the time being were their most powerful neigh- attested by the discovery there by Mr. Wood of a bours. Thus, at first, they joined the Ionian revolt hoard of coins, belonging chiefly to the Western States then, on the overthrow of Xerxes, were for a while of Europe, and struck during the thirteenth and four- tributary to Athens; and then, again, after the vic- teenth centuries. Among these are some of the tories of Lysander, permitted their city to be the Christian subjects of Saro-khan, an emir of Magnesia head-quarters of the Spartan operations against Asia in the fourteenth century.^ It is believed that the Minor ; though he could not, however, persuade the present name of its site, Aiosoluk, is a corruption people to change the name of their city to that of of Hagios Theologos (St. John), the name borne by his wife Arsinoe. After the overthrow of Antiochus, Ephesus during the Middle Ages. Ephesus was added by the Romans to the kingdom The chief glory of Ephesus was its temple. Ac- of Pergamus. cording to the most ancient reports, there had been Again, when Mithradates was all-powerful, we find in remote times one, at least, of the grandest propor- the people of Ephesus, to please him, joining in a tions which Herodotus claims, with that of Juno at general massacre of the Romans in their town ; in- Samos, as among the greatest works of the Greeks. deed, going to such lengths as not to respect the Its architect is said to have been contemporary with asylum of their own temple ; the natural result being Theodorus and Rhcecus, the builders of the Samian a severe punishment of this fickle population on Heraeum, early in the sixth century B.C. ; and the ultimate success of the Romans. On an in- ' An interesting account of these coins (2,231 in number) has scription, however, recently discovered, we believe, been given in the Numism. Chron., vol. xii. New Ser., 1872, by Mr. Wood, but now at Oxford, the people by Mr. H. A. Grueber, of the British Museum. The whole assert *' that they had been compelled to act against find," with some lumps of metal, weighed more than seven- their will, and that they were none the less, at teen pounds of silver. Among these were coins of Naples, of Rhodes, heart, the devoted friends of the Romans. As a of the Seljuk Amirs, of Venice, Genoa, and of the Papal States, their dates embracing a period of about eighty place of commercial importance, Ephesus did not years, from A.D. 1281;. r. ^ui^s^a^. 40 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 4- Xenophon, the usual port where especially, notices it, as he deposited there sonable limits. Ephesus, too, was the their way to their share entrusted to him of the tenth, arising from the Roman proconsuls landed, on sale of to Ephesus the slaves of the Ten Thousand at Cerasus, several provinces. Thus, Cicero came which Cilicia. So, too, was appropriated to Apollo and Artemis.^ We when going to his government in and have here an instance ofa custom noticed elsewhere,— Metellus Scipio put in there before Pharsalia, viz., too, also, was that the great temples of the Hellenic world M. Antonius after Philippi. There, were often Cleopatra before the used as banks of deposit, where treasure collected the fleet of Antony and was collected, not merely in the form of anathemata fatal day of Actium.^ or dedicated matter to us in connection objects, but, also, in large quantities of But the most interesting bullion, excavations there, &c., in trust. Many inscriptions in Boeckh with Ephesus have been Mr. Wood's show unexpected monu- clearly that the administrators of the temples with his discovery not only of many employed town, but of undoubted relics these treasures as loans. Artemis was, in ments of the ancient fact, a Wood, as the con- queen, whose dower was the wealth accumulated of the famous temple itself. Mr. in her temple. the Smyrna and Aidin Railway, As is well known, the original (or the structing engineer of second temple well acquainted with the neigh- of Artemis, for this point is not clear) had naturally become was burnt Ephesus, and, hence, so early as 1863, had by Herostratus, in B.C. 356, traditionally, bourhood of on excavations, clearing the same night on which Alexander the Great was made, at his own expense, some bom, ascertaining the true but it was soon rebuilt. It would take a whole out thereby the Odeum, and book, says Pliny, to of the Magnesian and Coressian gates. In describe all its details, and it is position admitted with several valuable inscrip- to have been the largest temple of antiquity. these researches, he met to a certain Roman, Among other valuables, the temple contained the tions, one of them referring famous was at the time the picture by Apelles of Alexander, while the Publius Vedius Antoninus, who circuit Town-clerk of the city.2 round it was an asylum where debtors and ypa/i/xarcvc—the Scribe or — worse rogues the Theatre, the scene could screen themselves from justice, By degrees the position of an evil which, as an inscription recently found there Chris, » Le Quien's "Oriens Christianus" gives a list of seventy shows, Augustus found it needful to restrain within rea- lian bishops of Ephesus from Timothy to A. D. 172 1. A good many of the later ones could only have been bishops in name. » In Pausanias, 2 the first sensible vii. 11, will be found a very full and interesting Colonel Leake, in 1824, seems to have given account of the worship of ought to be sought for. The the Ephesian Artemis, but it is too suggestion as to where the temple long to quote here. of the maps of Kiepert Pindar says, the worship was instituted by Admiralty chart of 1836 (the foundation the Amazons, the first accurate Cresos or Koresos, an autochthon, and Ephesus, (1841-1846) and of Guhl (1843), afforded also the son of the river 1862, Mr. Falkener god Cayster, being the first builders of the survey of the Gulf of Scala Nova. In temple. the For details of the older temples, see Strab. suggested the head of the harbour to the west of the city as xiv. 641 ; Xcn. Anab. v. Plin. 3 ; xvi. 79 ; and Vitruv. x. 6. most likely site. Ill 42 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 43 of the tumult at the time of St. Paul's visit large stones, originally from the cella of the was clearly made six out; but where was the Temple? in Temple, and each bearing various decrees. Indeed, the prosecution of his excavations Mr. Wood had which we have however, met by the most important of these, to with many decrees of the people of already alluded, the real clue was afforded as to Ephesus relating to the Temple,-one of them con- con- taining much its whereabouts. The finding this inscription curious information about the ritual firmed Mr. Wood's original idea of feeling his way used m the Temple-worship, with lists of the votive offenngs to be carried on certain days in procession through the -Magnesian Gate to the Great Theatre aiid thence back again through the Coressian Gate to the Temple." Among the list of statues are several of IJiana, probably, such as those which " Demetrius and his craftsmen " manufactured in the days of St Paul At length, m April, 1869, Mr. Wood came upon some massive walls, which were proved to have been those of I the courtyard in which the Temple had once stood by an inscnpdon in Greek and Latin, stating that Au- gustus had rebuilt them : and, finally, in 1870, a marble pavement was lighted on, at the depth of nineteen feet below the alluvial soil ofthe present plain, together with drumsof " columns, quitesix feet high,one base being still attached to its plinth. The site ofthe Temple of Diana had been reached, and its style was, at once, seen to have been similar to that of the Temple of Athene Pohas at Pnene, and of Apollo at Branchids. It is scarcely possible to speak too highly of Mr. Wood's DRUM OF PILLAE, tact and sagacity. Thus, considering the accounts of ancient authors too vague as guides for excavation, his to the Temple from one of the city gates, the result first diggings were essentially tentative, and with the being the discovery of two roads, — one of them view of meeting with some illustrative inscriptions. In leading round the mountain Prion or Pion, the other the Great Theatre he was more litely to find them towards the town of Magnesia. He wisely deter- than anywhere else, and here, indeed, he discovered mined to trace the one which showed the greatest amount of wear or use, assuming that if either of I'i 44 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 45 1''' '''"P": " "°"''^ '^ tl^^ used former must have one" 't --t last but one, and the last. The '"""'^ °"? ^°™* ^"°" h^ fo^d four the solid founda- Sinctdistmct rutsn,.l H been that built 500 B.C., for which deeply cut in its pavement of huge . o mart, e^h, blocks tions described by Pliny and Vitruvius were laid. . . the other road was worn 3'!';' Between 5 and 6 feet below the pavement and under "''','" ''^ ^"^^^y, to use woras, his own the foundations of the walls of the cella, I found Srd."inTxnfm explormg the road round Mount Pion i thick, described by which ' the layer of charcoal, 4 inches eventually led to the Temple " Pliny. This was laid between two layers of a com- '"^ ''""'°'"'' °^ <=°""-y^^d wall of about inches thick, similar to, and of the thetne Teml"''''Xemple, was soon position 3 reached, and, not as lona after consistency of, glazier's putty." before stated, the drums of severa of were the columns In conclusion, we may add that Mr. Wood found exhumed, lying in a confused mass chiefly ver- had fallen, ^ tTev abundant instances of the use of colour, sixteen or seventeen centuriraL tZ blue, and one specimen of gold inserted, Ingest and best milion and preserved of these d^msTf wh^ch as a fillet; together with several pieces of friezes *' ''*'°*'^P'^^« fo^ this voie, evidently, of the same size and wi^was ' much shattered, but, loundfound ^"Z u • on February ^rH TQ*,r . -4. '°'"'^'^''' as the reliefs on the drum. The more than •' artistic character 6 feet higTL s'i f I •" -d weighs reliefs themselves do not exhibit any great artistic r., 'to':fs' Som ^t^i^trS merit, though they fairly represent the characteristic style effect must, of the Macedonian period : their general however, have been very rich and gorgeous, and quite *'"' character with what we know of rich and luxurious though this splendid'^Swfng in by £'Z°^" T' Ephesus. We have not, at present, any evidence that earthquakes and the mafe of n °i,^'^*'"°>'^'^ the columns, as well as the drums, were covered ^^'^^ u"::dTb'^ir --^^dX th ttors with sculpture. Mr. Wood, we believe, thinks they ^"""^'^ ^''" at Paris, enSe him^Zw'^^^^^^^^^^^ ---<^'o were, but a medallion in the Bibliotheque Temple, rather suggests us original ^ht^ a^n-^S: °^ which gives the front of the -Hraddffi" '" contrary. the course of his the excavations, he " discovered mains of the Passing on from Ephesus we come to the scarcely three distinct temples, thettTu7t;'X less celebrated city of Miletus, the parent, according to Pliny, of more than 80 colonies.^ Situated at the seem";: ^^'"-^ ^^-- i t'^lltr^ ""!f <^- not » Rambach—De Mileto ejusque coloniis (Hal. Sax. 1790)— named in ' ™°-'^- the island of Cos Comp J^„7'' " - has attempted, not without success, to identify the larger number of ihem. 3 46 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 47 mouth and, on the left bank, of the Meander, Miletus note, especially Thrasybulus, the more stnctly belongs were men of historic to Caria; but it was, ;iso, one Corinthian Periander. Somewhat later, of the most conspicuous friend of the members of the Ionian con- Milesians made a treaty with Croesus, and, what federacy It ,s believed the that it was originally founded was of more importance to them, secured its main- ^''''' "°^^^ *« le^ birthplace of Thales, Anaximander, and Anaxi- and of its pre-eminence among the sacred shrines of menes.i antiquity. Indeed, many travellers, before Mr. Newton, In the neighbourhood of Miletus stood, at Bran- had spoken of the ruins of the Temple and of the CHiDiE or Didyma, the famous temple of Apollo Sacred Way leading to it, and, from the notices in Didymseus, the site, we feel pleased to say, of Wheler (1685), Cell, Leake, the " Ionian Antiquities," one of Mr. Newton's most valuable researches. and Hamilton, much valuable information may be It was known in Greek history from the remotest gathered. times, as the site of a shrine and of an oracle second It was left to Mr. Newton to complete what had only in sanctity and importance to that of Delphi ; as been indeed, hardly done at all before, and to secure the spot where Pharaoh Necho dedicated the armour for England the most important sculptures still t'n situ. he had worn when he took the city of Cadytis The Temple of Apollo Didymaeus^ was originally ap- (Herod, ii. 159), and as a place which received proached from the sea by a " Sacred Way," on each from Croesus, before his war with Cyrus, golden side of which had once been a row of seated statues, offerings equal in weight to those he gave to Delphi. sepulchral sort, tombs, &c. Along this " Way " Mr. It was plundered and burnt by Darius I., and, a Newton discovered eight seated statues, generally second time, by Xerxes, its sacred family of priests about 4 feet 6 inches high, by 2 feet 9 inches broad having been, on this occasion, swept off to Sogdiana and deep ; the character of their workmanship being, the ; by conqueror but it revived again, in renewed at the first glance, strikingly Egyptian, at least in this splendour, towards the close of the Peloponnesian respect, that their drapery, extending from the shoul- war, when rebuilt on a scale so vast that, according ders to the feet, consists of one closely-fitting gar- to Strabo, it could not be roofed over : it was memo- ment {chiton), and of a light shawl (peplos). One only rable, especially, for too, a succession of oracles as- of the figures retains its head, the sculptured treatment cending to a period before the commencement of of it being that usually recognized as the most archaic history, yet not wholly extinct even so late as the Greek, in that the hair is arranged in long parallel days of Julian. It was reasonable to expect that such tresses, as in the earliest coins of Syracuse. With a place would retain relics some of its past greatness, two exceptions, all these statues belong to the same * Didyma was the ancient name of the site where the temple disciples at Ephesus (distant about thirty miles) to come to see stood; hence the building was sometimes called the "Didy- him. This was their last opportunity, as he was then on his mseum." Strabo speaks of it as tov iv Aidvfioig vaov. On the final journey to Jerusalem (Acts xx. 17). pretence that the priests of Branchidse voluntarily returned with * A proverb cited by Athenaeus from Aristotle may refer Xerxes to Persia, their descendants were cmelly murdered by to the condition of the Milesians after the capture of their city Alexander the Great (Strabo, xiv. 634, xi. 517; Quint. Curt., by the Persians : ITaXat ttot ijcav dXiciuoi MiXrjaioi, — vii. 5). £ ; ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. so GRE.EK CITIES AND 51 evident that no limits. In the first place, we have the character of period of art. Mr. Newton says, it is them, their art, which is, unquestionably, very archaic ; one of them occupied, when he discovered se- they must, at condly, on three of the chairs are inscriptions in exactly its original position, and that par- the oldest Greek character; on the most important some time or other, have been thrown down and a somewhat one written boustrophedon (i.e. backwards and forwards, tially removed—an opinion confirmed by the original as an ox ploughs) ; thirdly, a long inscription later discovery of about eighty feet of on some the recumbent lion, and another, paving of the "Sacred Way," together with quite as old, on a these statues detached block, the base, possibly, bases, not improbably those on which of a statue now " " can lost. In order that had been originally placed. The Sacred Way the nature of the characters used may be comprehended, we annex a still be traced for about 580 yards. woodcut of the In a wall extending along it are, here and there, masses of polygonal masonry, with individual stones of an of immense size, the remains, probably, from original Hellenic wall. At a short distance met the last of the seated statues, Mr. Newton lion with two remarkable monuments — a colossal much 't sphinx— both, unfortunately, . and a female INSCRIPTION OF CHARES. under injured. The sphinx was completely buried the earth, and had nothing in its form to recommend legend on of very ancient inscrip- one the chairs of the seated figures, the it, but the lion had, on its side, a translation of which is, "I am Chares, son of Clesis, rion, which the barbarous Greeks of the neighbourhood important ruler of Teichaoessa, a [dedicatory] monument of had done all they could to obliterate. The i|i works to be [to] Apollo." 1 On the block found near the chair, question is, to what period are these assigned ? Now, of direct evidence we have none ^ This inscription was probably attached to a portrait statue. speaks of the two temples at this for, though history Teichioessa, or Teichiousa, we know fi-om Thucydides (viii. 26, themselves spot, we have no record of the statues 28), was a strong place near Miletus. Athenoeus (viii. 351) neariy spells it Teichius. Mr. the probability being that they were damaged Newton suggests that Chares was the probably one of the petty rulers on the western coast of Asia as much as at present before Herodotus visited Minor in the sixth and fifth centuries B.C., of Herodotus in spite whom .spot, and, probably, by the Persians. Yet, notices more than one. A bon-vwt of Stratonicus the musician indirect evi- silence of history, we have some is of the recorded by Athenseus : "As Teichioessa was inhabited by at dence from the monuments themselves ; enough, a mixed population, he observed that most of the tombs were accurate those of foreigners, ' least, to determine their a^e within tolerably on which he said to his lad, Let us be off, since strangers seem to die here, but not one of the E 2 OF ASIA MINOR. AND ISLANDS 53 52 GREEIi CITIES the inscription states that " the sons of Anaximander have [dedicated a statue?] of Andromachus," and that "Terpsicles made it": while that, on the side of the lion, —the most curious of them all,—declares that "the sons of Python, Archelaos, Thales, Pa- sikles, Hegesander, and Lysias, have dedicated the offerings, as a tenth, to Apollo." Some years since, a still more perfect seated figure was in existence, on the chair of which was an inscription copied by Sir W. Gell and Mr. Cockerell, and published by Boeckh and Rose.i We cannot discuss here the character of the in- scriptions quoted above, but all palaeographers ad- mit that the writing belongs to the earliest Greek period, not improbably anterior to the year B.C. 520. It may be still earlier, as, on the lion inscription, we find the name of Hegesander and another name, which, though the first letter has met with an injury, we agree with Mr. Newton in thinking, must be read natives'" (viii. p. 351). Teichoessa was also famous for the excellence of its mullets (Ital. triglia\ .... \ii[i,!iivi Sk TpiyXijv tffOi ivi ^a(j>apy \rj(p6eXaav Tetxiolo'O'y MiX^rnw Kwny. —Archestr. ap. Athen. /. c. * Colonel Leake (Journal of a Tour in Asia Minor, Lond., 1824, p. 239) has given an account of this chair, and suggests that the arrangement of these statues is similar to that of the avenues of the temples in Egypt. In a note to p. 342 of Colonel Leake's work, is a brief memoir by the late C. J. Cockerell, in which he suggests that the temple at Branchidse was never completed, as the flutings of the columns are not finished (see, also, pp. 347, 348). There is an engraving of this BRANCHIDiE. CHAIR FROM chair in the "Ionian Antiquities.'* ; OF ASIA MINOR. GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS 55 54 detached block, we have that tombs at Cameirus, in Rhodes, have yielded works as Thales, while, on the certainly remarkable that almost certainly imitated from Egyptian prototypes of Anaximander. Now it is close to the most by early Greek artists. We have, too, the statement on two adjoining stones, found the names of two ot of Diodorus, that Theodorus of Samos and his brother sacred temple of the Milesians, philosophers of that town should Telecles of Ephesus, the sons of Rhoecus, derived the the most celebrated general really the names of those canon of their sculptures from Egypt. The occur If, then, these be to have jomed character, however, of the ornamentation, the maean- philosophers, they may be supposed dedicatmg the figure der-pattern, and the lotos and borders on the gar- with other citizens of Miletus in object (whether statue or ments of the seated figures, agreeing, as these do, of the lion, and of the the second mscnption with the same patterns on early Greek vases, tend to other^vise) once attached to these works would be between show that their actual artists were Greeks. Thus, too, and if so, the dates of Anaximander was bom about the archaic statue of Athene in the Acropolis at Athens B C. 470 and B.C. 560. was probably the father is essentially Greek, and not Egyptian. Pliny has B.C. 610, and Hegesander himself born about B.C. 520. further noticed that two Cretan sculptors, Dipaenos of Hecatius, who was that, unlike so many other and Scyllis, were the first artists (about B.C. 580) of It is worthy of remark trace of sculptures exhibit no note, as workers in marble : it is, therefore, quite early Greek works, these only style they recall conceivable that they may have been the actual artists an Asiatic or Assyrian origin. The the only Assyrian monument they of these monuments. is that of Egypt, while seated figure brought We shall now say a few words of Thyateira, Mag- resemble is the semi-Egyptian Mr. Newton nesia AD SiPYLUM, Philadelphia, and Tralles by Mr. Layard from Kalah Sherghat. resemblance to Egyptian with some rather fuller remarks on the celebrated has justly pointed out that the " in the great breadth of the city, Sardes, the capital of Lydia. work is seen not only of the limbs, m Thyateira was a place of considerable importance, shoulders, but also in the modelling muscles are indi- and probably of early origin, but of no great rank which the forms of the bones and and judgment than among the surrounding towns till the time of the Mace- cated with far greater refinement the case ... the subdued donians; its best known name, according to Steph. at first sight seems to be to the general Byzant., being due to Seleucus Nicator. To us, its chief treatment of the anatomy contributes figures are so interest is its connection with early Christianity, as the breadth and repose for which these that they were home of " Lydia the seller of purple " (Acts xvi. 14), remarkable, and suggests the idea Egypt. We and as one of the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse. executed by artists who had studied m intimately connected There are still, according to Sir Charles Fellows, re- know that the Greeks were and Neco; while the mains of a considerable city ; and it is also, under with Psammetichus I., Amasis, —; " 56 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 57 the name of Ak-Hissar, a flourishing commercial town. speaking of Niobe's transformation (II. xxiv. 614), as Close to the Lake Gygaea, not far from Sardes, was the do also Sophocles (Antig. v. 822), and Ovid (Metam. sepulchral Alyattes, mound of considered by Herodotus vi. 310). The story of the weeping Niobe was one of the wonders of Lydia. This remarkable tumulus, probably an optical illusion (Paus. Attic, c. 21), and, is which about 280 yards in diameter, has been recently curiously, the origin of it has been clearly shown by excavated by M. Spiegenthal, who discovered in its Chandler, who says, " The phantom of Niobe may centre a sepulchral chamber of highly polished marble be defined as an effect of a certain portion of light blocks^ and of about the same size as that of the tomb and shade on a part of Sipylus, perceivable at a par- of Cyrus. Such tumuli are common in Asia Minor ticular point of view. The traveller, Avho shall visit indeed, round the same lake, are three or four more, Magnesia after this information, is requested to ob- probably, as Strabo has suggested, the tombs of other serve carefully a steep and remarkable cliff, about a early Lydian kings. Sir Gardner Wilkinson has pointed mile from the town ; varying his distance, while the out that their structure—a stone basement with a mound sun and shade, which come gradually on, pass over of earth above—resembles the constructed tombs of it, I have reason to believe he will see Niobe Etruria. (Travels, p. 331). The magnetic influence on the " The Lydiati Magnesia—usually called Ad Sipy- compass is confirmed by Arundell, but the name luviy' to distinguish it from the Magnesia of Ionia *' Magnet " has been derived from other towns of the was the scene of the great victory gained by the two same name. Scipios in B.C. 190, over Antiochus the Great though Philadelphia, named from Attains Philadelphus, aided by the Gauls, which handed over Western Asia suffered more than any other Lydian town from to the Romans. Hence, in the Mithradatic war, the earthquakes, so that, after that in the reign of Tiberius Magnesians stood firmly by Rome. A coin of this it was well nigh deserted. It continued, however, place has on it the head of Cicero, and is interesting to hold its own for many years, and is memorable as the only portrait (good or bad) we have of that for the long and gallant resistance it made to the great orator. In legendary history. Mount Sipylus, which overhangs Magnesia on the S., was famous as discovery of his friend Mr. Strickland (it had been previously^ however, noticed by Chishull) of a remarkable statue sculptured the residence of Tantalus and Niobe ; and here, too, on the rocky base of the mountain. "This statue" Mr. Strick- was a town of the same name as the mountain, said land states, * * is rudely sculptured out of the solid rock. It repre- to have been converted into a lake by volcanic sents a sitting figure contained in a niche, and its height from action 1 (Paus.). Homer alludes to the mountain in the base to the top of the head may be about twenty feet." "There can be little doubt that this is the ancient statue of ' Hamilton (vol. i. p. 49) confirms the identity of Sipylus Cybele mentioned by Pausanias," but it can scarcely be, as and its neighbourhood with the legend of Tantalus, by the some other travellers have supposed, Niobe. 58 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 59 Turks. It submitted, at length, in A.D. 1390, to We come now to Sardes, by far the most important Bayazid, and is still a place of some size under its city of Lydia. The date of its foundation has not new name of Allah-Shehr. Philadelphia is noticed been recorded, but it must have early been a place of in the Revelations (iii. 7) as one of the Seven note, as Herodotus states that it was plundered by Churches. A story long prevailed of a wall made of the Cimmerians, though they could not capture its bones of the citizens slain by Bayazid ; and Rycaut citadel.^ Its real importance, however, evidently began remarks, that '-'these bones are so entire that I when it became the capital of the Lydian monarchs, brought a piece thereof with me from thence." men whose unusual wealth has been fully attested Chandler, however, found a simple solution for this by Herodotus, who had himself seen the gifts wonder in a petrifying stream, like that at Laodicea. of Croesus in the treasury at Delphi. The story "This," says he, "encrusted some vegetable sub- of the mode whereby the citadel of Sardes was taken stances which have perished, and left behind, as it by Cyrus is most likely true; indeed is, in some were, their moulds." Gibbon particularly notices degree, confirmed by a later capture, under cir- the gallantry of the Philadelphians : — "At a dis- cumstances not unsimilar, by Lagoras, a general of tance," says he, "from the sea, forgotten by the Antiochus the Great (Polyb. vii. 4—7). Emperor, encompassed on all sides by the Turks, her Under the reign of Croesus, Sardes was unquestion valiant citizens defended their religion and freedom ably a great and flourishing city, the resort of men of above fourscore years, and, at length, capitulated learning and ability, who were, Herodotus tells us, with the proudest of the Ottomans in 1390. Among attracted thither by the fame and hospitality of the the Greek colonies and Churches of Asia, Philadel- king (i. 29) ; on the success of Cyrus, it was simply phia is still erect, a column in a scene of ruins." transferred from the native dynasty of rulers to the Tralles, in the time of Strabo, was one of the most conquering Persians, becoming thus, not only the occasional resi- flourishing cities of Asia Minor ; indeed, situated as it capital of Persian Asia Minor, but the was, on the high road from Ephesus through Lydia dence of the monarch himself. Thus Xerxes spent the and Phrygia, it could hardly have failed to be a place winter there when preparing his unwise invasion of Greece (Herod, vii. here, too, Cyrus the of great traffic (Cic. Ep. ad Att. v. 14 ; Artemid. ap. 32-37); and Strab. xiv. p. 663). Hence its citizens were gene- Younger collected the army so easily crushed on the rally selected to fill the expensive offices of Asiarchs, fatal day of Cunaxa. Xenophon remarks that the or Presidents of the games celebrated in the province. beauty of its gardens excited the admiration of even Though abundant ruins may be seen over the whole the Spartan Lysander, who was amused by the tale site of the ancient city, they have been so shattered by earthquakes as to be now scarcely recognizable. Sardes, from ^dpSeig ; but it is often written Sardis. — ; 6o GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 61 that Cyrus himself had often played there the part of other, in front of it, said to be that of St. John. The gardener (CEcon. p. 880; cf Cic. de Senect. c. 17). former is almost wholly constructed of magnificent The town itself seems to have consisted chiefly of fragments of earlier edifices, and is, perhaps, as thatched houses, and so was easily burnt by the Colonel Leake thought, " the only one of the Seven lonians in their revolt. The burning of Sardes was churches of which there are any distinguishable felt by the Persian monarch to be a gross insult, the remains." Bearing in mind, too, St. Paulas residence more so that his rule had been notoriously mild and for three years in the neighbouring town of Ephe- equitable. Sardes made no resistance to Alexander sus, we must suppose the capital of Lydia was in- the Great ; hence, its people were permitted by that cluded in the declaration of St. Luke that " all they monarch to retain their ancient laws and customs which dwelt in Asia (i.e. Roman Proconsular Asia) (Arrian, i. 17). During the wars of the Seleucidae it heard the word of the Lord Jesus, both Jews and was, at different times, subject to the prevailing Greeks" (Acts xix. 10; compare also i Cor. xvi. 19, ruler of that house, and, hence, passed over to the and Rev. iii. 1-5). In later days, more than one Romans after the defeat of Antiochus at Magnesia,^ Council was held here. Indeed, this famous city may Colonel Leake has given, in his Asia Minor, some be traced through a long period of Byzantine history interesting notes by Mr. Cockerell on the antiquities (Eunap. p. 154 ; Hierocl. p. 669). The emperor Ju- of this to\\'n, with a special account of the famous lian made Chrysanthius, of Sardes, pontiff of Lydia temple of Cybele, or the Earth, which stood on the but his attempt to restore the heathen worship was banks of the Pactolus, and of which three great a failure. About A.D. 400 it was plundered by columns were then standing.^ This temple was burnt the Goths under Tribigild and Cainas, officers in the lonians by in B.C. 503, and never completely Roman pay; in the eleventh century it was seized reconstructed.^ Most interesting to the Christian by the Turks, and, two centuries later, nearly de- are the remains of two churches, one supposed stroyed by Timiir. A miserable village, called Sart, to be that of the Church of the Panagia, and an- now occupies its site ; and so completely has it passed away, that we might inquire with Horace, " Quid * A part of the fortifications of Sardes bore the same name. Crcesi regia Sardes ? " if we may not quite add the Prion, which we find at Ephesus (Polyb. vii. 4—7). Is the the following line, " Smyrna quid ?" name in any way connected with Priene ? As a Greek word, commencement of vpiojv means a saw ; hence, possibly, a serrated ridge of hills (Horat. Epist. I. i. 2). No remains of its ancient the Spanish sierra. grandeur now exist, and the "princes" of Lydia, ^ There are only two now (Arundell). her wise men, her captains, and " her rulers and her ^ Colonel Leake, in 1824, supposed the Temple of Ephesus mighty men" have long been asleep in the innumer- was the largest temple of antiquity. It is now known that it all the level country around. was really the sixth in size—that of Agrigentum in Sicily being able tumuli spread over the largest. We proceed now to notice some of the more im- r 62 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA minor. 63 portant towns of Caria, and take first Halicar- that this queen's short reign, of two years only, did NASsus (now Budrum) which had achieved the not enable her to witness the completion of her most enduring fame, as the site of the Mauso- grand design, but that these great sculptors finished leum or Tomb of Mausolus, once of the Seven the work after her death for their own honour and Wonders of the World. Originally, a colony from the glory of art. Much of what they accomplished Troezene, in Argolis, Halicamassus had early adopted was, certainly, extant till comparatively modern times. Asiatic tastes and habits ; hence, firmly adhering to Thus, the building is noticed, first by Strabo and the Persians, its Queen Artemisia I., the widow of Pliny, then by Gregory of Nazianzus in the fourth, Lygdamis, fought for Xerxes at Salamis. remark- by Constantinus Porphyrogenitus in t A A the tenth, and able vase in Egyptian alabaster, with the name by Eudoci?, in the eleventh centuries respectively; and titles of Xerxes on it in the three forms of the all these accounts implying that it was still visible. cuneiform writing, discovered by Mr. Newton in the Again, Frontanus, the historian of the siege of Rhodes, Mausoleum, was, perhaps, the reward-gift of the Per- states that a German knight, Henry von Schlegelholt, sian monarch for this service. To her namesake, the constructed the citadel at Budrum out of the Mauso- second Artemisia, we owe the building of the Mau- leum. Yet, even then, it was only partially destroyed, soleum, 130 years subsequently. for when Cepio visited Budrum in 1472 he mentions With regard to the history of this remarkable seeing its remains among the ruins of the ancient monument, it is well known that, on the death of town. In the later repairs, however, of the citadel, the Mausolus, B.C. 353, Artemisia, his widow and sister, masonry of the substructure of the Mausoleum must resolved to celebrate his all memory by the honours have been wholly removed ; the result being that the art and literature of the period could bestow, visitors to Budrum, before Mr. Newton commenced and to employ, for this purpose, four ofthe most cele- his excavations, could not determine its site. brated sculptors of antiquity,—Bryaxis, Timotheus, About the middle of the last century, the Greek Leochares or Scopas, and Praxiteles.^ It is said sculptures built into the walls of the fortress were published in Dalton's " Views in Greece and Egypt, ' Its architects were Satyrus and Phiteus, and the buUding 1751-81," and were subsequently itself a parallelogram surrounded by thirty-six columns, sup- described by Choi- porting seul-Gouffier, Moritt, Prokesch a pyramid of twenty-four steps, which tapered to the top von Osten, W. J. Hamil- like a meta, or goal. Its height was 140 feet. Martial de- ton, as, also, in the second volume of " Ionian Antiqui- scribes it as "Aere vacuo pendentia Mausolea." Pausanias Romains," &c., Lyons, 1581, the sculptured reliefs and "cer- states that the Romans admired it so much that they called all tain white marble steps" (possibly those of the pyramid) are similar buildings "Mausolea"; while Eustathius, in the noticed. This information, he says, he had from M. Dale- twelfth century, observes of it, Oavfia kuI >}v koI tan ("it champs—the editor of Pliny— and he, again, from M. de la was and is a wonder") clearly implying its existence, in some Tourette, who was present, in 1522, when its last stones were form or other, even then. In M. Guichard's "Funerailles de finally removed to build the castle. 64 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 65 previously slightly examined, ties/' Nothing, however, was done towards a more and, for some time, met with little except abundant mosaics, the complete examination of them, till, in 1845, ^^^ Strat- remains of splendid villa, ford Canning (now Lord Stratford de Redcliffe), then a some of them inscribed with the names of the persons H.M. Ambassador at Constantinople, was able to ex- represented,—such as Meleager and Atalanta, tract them from these walls, and to present them to Dido and ^neas. A little further on, Mr. the British Museum in February, 1846. The chief Newton found in the rubble several drums of columns, with late subject of these sculptures is the contest between the and shallow Doric flutings, and, at one Greeks and the Amazons, and their artistic style may comer of the building, a well, in which was be compared with that of the slabs on the Choragic a small head in white marble, a bronze lamp, and monument of Lysicrates at Athens, of the date of B.C. some other objects : many, too, of the rooms still retained their skirting of white 334. The pieces thus recovered were evidently but marble. But still subordinate portions of a much larger design. no Mausoleum appeared. At length, however, Mr. From this time nothing further was done till Mr. Newton commenced dig- ging Newton was sent by Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, in on a spot where, nearly sixty years ago, Pro- the early part of 1856, on a cruise to the south of the fessor Donaldson had noticed the remains of "a superb Ionic edifice," and soon came Archipelago ; on which occasion he landed at Budnim, on many small frag- ments of a frieze in and partially examined the site, but without detect- high relief, and on a portion of a colossal lion resembling ing any visible evidence of the Mausoleum. ^ In in execution the lions' heads built October of the same year, however, Mr. Newton took into the walls of the castle. Mr. Newton next fell in with up his abode at Budrum ^vith a few sappers under the a mass of ruins lying just below the surface, command of Lieut. Smith, R.E. Mr. Newton com- one column, indeed, standing nearly upright but in- menced his excavations on the same spot he had verted, and 10 feet below, a little further on, with the edge of a pavement or step, about 6 inches * Admiral Spratt, R.N., a veteran surveyor, proposed his site below which the native rock for the Mausoleum, because, i. he thought it coincided with had been levelled for a floor. of 2. side there are In the earth this the description Vitruvius ; on the eastern on floor was found the body of a still portions of an Hellenic wall 3. on the N. side were several ; colossal statue from the waist to the ankle, and fragments of columns of large diameter; and, 4. it might be another mass of sculpture — a warrior on horseback inferred that the Mausoleum stood on a mound. He did not, in a Persian or Oriental costume, in itself however, follow the example of Prof. Ross, in writing a paper a most remarkable against Mr. Newton's early account of the Mausoleum in the specimen of ancient sculpture. There could "Classical Museum," with a sneer at the possibility of any be no doubt now that these were relics of student, who had not himself surveyed the place, forming a the Mausoleum, the smoothed rock being the bed conception of the real position of the great building. It is satis- . on which the building had once stood. The work, in factory to know that Prof. Ross's personal survey proved to be F even less satisfactory than that of Capt. Spratt. ; ; 66 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 67 all cases, was of the best, the fragments of the small during the demolition by the Knights. On the east figures being generally better preserved than those on side of the Mausoleum, a colossal seated male figure the frieze already in the British Museum. The dis- was next discovered, of a grand style, but sadly shat- cover}' of the column just alluded to had this especial tered; and then, on the north, a similarly colossal value, that, by its measurement and order, a judgment female figure, which must have been originally scarcely could be formed of the size of the building to which less than 12 feet high. Here, also, was found a very it had belonged : ultimately these measurements beautiful fragment of one of the friezes, representing showed that the building itself must have had much a female figure stepping into a chariot, the face of resemblance in style to the temple at Priene. which, happily but slightly injured, retains even now By the spring of the next year (1857) Mr. Newton the finish of a cameo. had determined the base-lines of the original building, Mr. Newton's next plan of ascertaining, if possible, and proved it must have been a parallelogram 116 the boundary-wall of the tcmenos was a happy one, as feet long on the west by 126 feet on the south side, he thus, at once, discovered a mass of marble blocks, its entire circumference having been about 472 feet. piled one above another, and intermixed with frag- The inner part of this quadrangle was paved with ments of statues; and thus unearthed, (i) a colossal large slabs of a greenish-grey stone i foot thick. horse, in two pieces, and part of the head of another The cause of the ruin of the building was, also, horse, with the bronze bridle still adhering to it : (2) clear enough ; first, earthquakes shook down a consi- a lion in fine condition, and another in two pieces derable portion, and then the Knights of Rhodes, a draped female (3) figure broken in half; (4) a head and, after them, the Turks, used up every available of Apollo. All these sculptures were found heaped stone above ground for building purposes. For- together, and had evidently not been disturbed since tunately, however, the plunderers only took what was they had fallen. ready to their hand ; hence the massive courses of The conclusion was inevitable, that parts of the the foundation-stones were left, because unseen. On colossal horses of the quadriga from the top of the the western side, a grand staircase of twelve steps, monument had now been met with ; and that this 30 feet wide, led from the base of the hill to the quadriga and much of the pyramid, its support, had western side of the precincts of the [Mausoleum. been simply hurled upon and over the wall of the Near these were found the vase of Xerxes, and a iemenos, and that Mr. Newton had, in fact, found them gigantic stone weighing more than ten tons, which just as they had fallen, it may be 1,700 years ago.^ probably once closed the entrance to the actual Near to the horse's head, too, was found a face of a tomb. No remains of the tomb itself were found ' It yet, there is reason for believing that some portion is reasonable to conjecture that the first ruin of the Mausoleum was due to the earthquakes of the first of it, if not the actual body of the king, was visible and second centuries A.D., to which we have already alluded. F 2 68 GREEK CITIES ISLANDS AND OF ASIA MINOR. 69 colossal male head, presumably that of some person- a circumierence of 412 feet, so as to preserve a age connected with the quadriga, and, from its general uniform intercolumniation on each side of the style, which is analogous to the idealized portrait of building. Alexander the Great on the coins of Lysimachus, most difficulty The of Lieutenant Smith's theory is that likely from a statue of Mausolus himself. The face has so large a space from the centres of the columns to a noble expression, and by a happy accident, the out- the walls of the cella is left unsupported ; but the plan lines of the features have remained uninjured. Though of support he has suggested occurs in other and we have no actual evidence on this subject, it is pro- bable that the statue we have called Mausolus was standing in the chariot at the top of the monument. On the south side of the building Mr. Newton found C several portions of what, when put together, were clearly parts of one of its wheels. The fragments consisted of part of the outer circle, half the nave, and a piece nL\ of one of the spokes. The wheel, originally, had six spokes, the alternate intervals between each spoke hav- ing been closed to ensure by its solidity the strength of the whole wheel. As what has been found shows that the wheel was 7.7 inches in diameter; and as the horses could scarcely have been less than 10 feet STEPS OF THE PYRAMID. in length, we may fairly suppose the top of the pyramid on which the quadriga stood was at least 24 feet long. nearly contemporaneous structures, as, for instance, From other calculations it may be shown that the in a tomb at Mylasa. Again the great height, 65 pyramid was 23 J feet high : but for these and other feet, between the bases of the columns and the similar details we must refer our readers to Mr. New- ground, is found to agree with the proportions of ton's work on the Mausoleum. other tombs, as in Lycia and at Souma in Algeria. We must, however, add that the measurements of In all probability, this lofty basement was ornamented the height and tread of the blocks of marble believed by one or more friezes, while the lions, of which to have been the steps of the pyramid, formed an Mr. Newton found remains of no less than fourteen, essential feature of the calculation. The results may have stood between the columns or at the cor- arrived at mainly were due to the' ingenuity and ners, looking out on the plain. Since their arrival mathematical knowledge of Lieut. Smith, R.E., who in England, great skill has been shown in uniting was also able to distribute Pliny's 36 columns over the innumerable fragments into which some of the : — imm^- I 70 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 71 slabs and statues had been broken; and visitors to of the Dorian Hexapolis, or assembly of six cities, the British Museum are now able to form a good whose place of meeting was the temple of the Triopian idea of the grandeur and beauty of the equestrian or Apollo, on Cape Krio.^ As a population, the Cnidians Amazonian figure, whose costume resembles that of were great traders, combining with this a love for, and the Persians on the temple of the Wingless Victory a high sense of, art. Thus we find them at a re- mote period in Egypt (Herod, ii. and possessing at Athens ; and of the two great statues it has been 178), agreed to call Mausolus and Artemisia. In the same a treasury at Delphi, while Lipara, near Sicily, was room, there may, also, now be seen the whole of the one of their colonies. In the various wars of the fifth and fourth centuries B.C., find the Cnidians some- frieze that has been recovered ; and it is interesting we to observe how much less injured are the portions ex- times on one side and sometimes on the other. Thus, ^ cavated by Mr. Newton, than those which, built into they submitted to Harpagus, the general of Cyrus ; the castle wall, have for four centuries, at least, been then supported Athens, then deserted her after her exposed to the corroding action of the sea-breezes. losses in Sicily,^ and then, again, in Roman times, were, We take next Cnidus, at the S.W. end of Asia generally, on the side of Rome.'* The Cnidians derived Minor, and, after Halicamassus, the most celebrated much fame from their patronage of art. Thus, the famous painting city of Caria. The description of its position by of Polygnotus in the Lesche at Delphi was their gift ;^ Strabo and Pausanias coincides exactly "with the ob- as were also a statue ofJupiter at Olym- servations of modem travellers. Thus, Strabo speaks i:)ia, and one at Delphi, of their founder, Triopas ; with of its two ports, one of which can be closed and j * Near this temple the Cnidians held their assemblies and ' I, island of an (now Cape Krio) in front of the city, the games (dyioves tov TpiOTriov AttoXXwvoq, Herod, i. 144, lofty, in the form of a theatre, and joined by a cause- or 'Aydjv AwpioQ, Arist. ap. Schol. Theocr. Idyll, xvii. 69). The officer in charge of these games was called cafxiovpybg way to the mainland ; both of which statements are (Leake, p. 227). completely confirmed by Beaufort and Hamilton. Pau- - The Cnidians wished to cut through the narrow neck of sanias adds that the island was connected by a bridge. land between their two harbours ; but the Delphic oracle replied The whole district is covered by ruins, the northern that, had Jupiter intended Cape Krio should have been an island, wall being, according to Hamilton, nearly perfect he would have made it so : he adds, that " there is a round tower of great beauty Zevc ydp K t6T]Ks vrjffov el k tISovXero. —Herod, i. 1 74. at the extremity of the peninsula, near the northern ^ Cnidus paid dear for this desertion by loss of all her ships harbour" (ii. 40). Some of the most important archi- (Thucyd. viii. 35, 42). * tectural features of the town may be seen in the Hamilton (ii. 42) shows that more than one of Julius " Ionian Antiquities." Cncsar's personal friends were connected with Cnidus. * See papers by W. Lloyd in " of Classical Cnidus is noticed first in the Homeric hymns, and W. Museum An- tiquities," vol. i. 185 1. later as a Lacedaemonian colony, and as a member — > H 72 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 73 Other statues of Leto, of Apollo, and of Artemis shooting The report of the Dilettanti Society, to which v/e arrows at Tityus. The most famous art-possession of have alluded, and those of Captain Beaufort and Cnidus was the naked statue by Praxiteles so well others, having excited much interest in England, it known as the Cnidian Venus,i of which abundant was thought advisable that careful excavations should notices are extant, especially in Lucian. It stood in be made at a spot where there was so much promise a chamber with two doors, so that it could all be seen of successful results; hence Mr. Newton, at the round, and many people visited Cnidus solely for this close of his work at Halicamassus, I resolved to do purpose. So proud were the Cnidians of this statue for Cnidus what he had done for the other Carian that, when Nicomedes offered to pay the whole public city. debt of Cnidus in return for the statue, they preferred Mr. Newton commenced his operations by examin- nil •! keeping their statue and their debts. This statue, ing a platform supported by polygonal masonry, and justly considered the fittest representation of the jutting out like a pier from the side of the mountain, "Regina Cnidi Paphique," continued long uninjured, soon discerning that he was on the site of the temenos and is mentioned by Philostratus in his life of Apol- of Demeter, as a niche in the face of the rock above lonius of Tyana; but, in the reign of Theodosius, still retained a portion of a dedicatory inscription to having been removed to Constantinople, it was totally that goddess. Shortly afterwards he found a small stele, destroyed by fire in the palace of Lausus, about and, near it, the statue noticed by the Dilettanti mis- A.D. 475. There were also preserved at Cnidus two sion, the head, hands, and feet of which were wanting. statues by Bryaxis and Scopas, two of the sculptors Enough, however, remained to show that it had once of the Mausoleum. Cnidus li was also famous for her been a work "of fine style and execution." Inscriptions !! t pottery, well known in ancient times by the name of soon after turned up on the same spot : one of them recording the dedication of an edifice (oIkoq) and of a ^ Praxiteles made two statues of Venus, one naked, the other statue (ayaXfjia) to Demeter and Persephone, and, veiled. The Coans chose the latter, the Cnidians the former. what was of far higher interest, the head of the seated 2 territory The round Cnidus was rich in wine, corn, oil, and figure just noticed, exhibiting a countenance of ex- various vegetables, noticed by Athenoeus (i. p. 33, ii. p. 66), quisite beauty, by Pliny (xiii. with a most tender and refined expres- and 35, xix. 32, &c.). Pliny adds (xvi. 64) that Cnidian reeds sion. This head made excellent pens ; hence the fitness of has recently been specially studied Catullus's lines by Professor Brunn, and his paper on it (translated "Quaeque Ancona Cnidumque arundinosam by Mr. Murray, of the British Museum) published in Colis" (Carm. xxx. vi. 11). vol. xi. pt. I of the Trans, of the Royal Society of The historian Ctesias, Eudoxus, a disciple of Plato, and Aga- Literature. In this paper Professor Brunn traces, with tharcides, were natives of Cnidus. From Hierocles, the Notitice and the a masterly Acts of Councils, it would seem to have existed as hand, the intercrossing ideas suggested by late as the seventh and eighth centuries. the mixed character of Demeter as a wife, a mother, 74 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF AbIA MINOR. 75 and a widow. " The character," says he, " of mother grieves for the loss of her Son, and finds blessedness pervades the whole mythology of Demeter : the in the spiritual contemplation of Him. Suppose a mother who, without a husband, lived only for her Christian artist were to give his Madonna the head of child ; who had to lose her child, and to be jfilled with our Demeter, he would certainly not be censured anxiety for her; to have her anxiety lessened, but for it." never silenced or removed, by occasional visits from About the same time Mr. Newton met with two her daughter The eye is sunk in the socket, other statues, each of considerable interest : the one as if physically weary; but anxiety of mind fights representing a female figure with a modius on her against the weariness, and will not yet surrender to it. head, partially covered by the peplos, and in her right The look is not sunk, but is directed upwards, only a hand a pomegranate ; the other, a female statue nearly little less sharply." "Can it be," adds the six feet high, with its body draped to the feet. Its Professor, " only the result of chance that Christian general character is that of an elderly woman wasted with sorrow, with little of that matronly comeliness which, in ancient art, generally characterizes Demeter. From the Homeric hymn to Demeter we learn that the goddess, while wandering in search of her daughter Persephone, was wont to assume the garb of an old woman, and thus traversed the earth for days without tasting food. She is likened, also, to an aged nurse or housekeeper in a regal house, a description well agreeing with this statue. This type of the sorrowing Demeter has not, we believe, been previously recog- nized in any extant monument of ancient art. A passage, however, in Clemen sAlexandrinus (Cohort, ad Gentes, i. 30, ed. Potter) suggests that she was some- times represented in sculpture under this aspect. Near the first statue of Demeter, the sitting figure, ll were several thin nearly decayed DEMETER FROM CNIDUS. sheets of lead, which, on being unrolled, proved to have been in- scribed with curses and imprecations in artists have also represented the Madonna wearing the names •the veil? of Demeter, Persephone, and other of the infernal . . . . , In the centre of the Christian gods. Such inscriptions have been occasionally met religion, also, is the figure of a mother who lives only with before, and are known by the name of Dira. for her Child and in her Child, who, in the same way. ; laaaaM 76 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 77 maining in situ was, Mr. Newton observes, not unlike On pursuing his researches in this tevienos, Mr. New- in form to an early Christian church, with a chamber, ton came upon the entrance to a large chamber, full vestibule, and apse or alcove at the south end. of miscellaneous antiquities, including many bases of On each side were smaller apses, and, in front of each of former statues, some with remains of stelae, others them, a marble sarcophagus. The sarcophagi gene- with hollowed spaces for the feet of statues. Most rally exhibit good Roman work of the time of Domitian, of them bore dedications to Demeter in the Doric but have suffered much by the fall of the roof; they dialect; and, with them, were many other objects must once have been magnificent specimens of the connected with her worship, as three boar pigs, a decorative style of their day, though they exhibit the calathus, and many votive female breasts in marble. I 11 111'. decay of good taste in the lavish prodigality of orna- The date of these objects is probably, as Mr. Newton ment with which they have been covered. In the suggests, about B.C. 370—320. Below these, again, earth around were abundant fragments of Greek in- were layers of lamps, amphoriskoi, vessels in Samian ji scriptions, nearly all of them decrees of the Senate ware, hair-pins of bone, bodkins, and glass bottles, all h' and people of Cnidus. One of the tombs Mr. Newton probably Roman. It is likely that this chamber was considered to have been that of a certain Lykaethus, formerly a treasury connected with one of the temples as an inscription records decrees in his favour, by and, that it has never been disturbed since it became show of hands (xeiporovia), at the festival of the a ruin is certain from the fact that the edges of the greater Dionysia, together with the erection of a statue fractured stones are still clean and sharp. It is curious to him at the public expense. There is no satis- that, besides the marble pigs, the bones of many young factory proof as to when this Lykaethus lived ; but pigs were also found, manifest remains of sacrifices to Demeter. his tomb would seem to date from the early Seleucidan period, when Cnidus was a free city. The clearing out of the Theatres little . did to re- ward Having completed the survey of Cnidus itself, Mr. Mr. Newton's labours ; indeed, it soon became Newton proceeded next to examine the villages in the but too clear that all, or nearly all, the finer works neighbourhood, the result being the discovery of a had long since been removed, probably, like the colossal lion. Reports of its existence had reached Venus, to Constantinople. Hence, shortly afterwards, him before, but it was left to Mr. Pullan, the archi- he gave his chief attention to a thorough examination tect of the expedition, to make its actual discovery, of the Necropolis, the vast extent of which naturally at a distance of between three and four miles to inspired hopes of important discoveries. This necro- the E. of Cnidus, in a position wherein, except by polis, the general character of which is very well shown accident, it might have remained unnoticed for an- in one of the plates in the " Ionian Antiquities," must other twenty-one centuries. The exact spot where the in former days have been one of the most striking lion was found may be seen in the Admiralty chart, features of the town. One of the structures still re- ; 'I : s^s I 78 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 79 which shows, on the summit of a difF, opposite Cape the action of an earthquake was probably the primary Crio, the ruins of an ancient tomb, which are strewn cause of the ruin of this monumental tomb, there can all around. Below this, some 60 feet, the lion was be no doubt, also, that it has suffered much from reposing on a ledge of rock, beneath which, again, plunderers, who, in search for treasure, have torn up is a sheer precipice of 300 feet into the sea. The as much of the inner pavement as they could move. lion was lying on its right side, and its upper portion The jambs of the doorway still exist, and the interior had suffered much from exposure to the weather. It was shaped like a beehive. The top has been closed had been carved, as well as the base on which it re- in by one immense block, and, as its upper side was poses, of one piece of Parian marble, and measures 1 somewhat broader than the lower, this block must nearly 10 ft. in length, by 6 ft. in height. This noble have been dropped into its position, like the bung of lion is probably earlier than the Mausoleum, and ex- a gigantic cask, after the rest of the building was hibits a more severe and majestic style than those finished. The chamber, itself, exhibits in its sides a of the Mausoleum.! The removal of the lion was a series of openings expanding outwards like embra- labour of much toil and difficulty; indeed, could sures—no doubt, driKaif or resting-places for bodies hardly have been accomplished had Mr. Newton not indeed, on clearing the rubbish away, a number of had the aid of some sailors from an English ship of war. human bones were met with. Mr. Newton considers The tomb itself was a nearly equal square of this monument can hardly be later than 350 B.C., 39ft. inches, with the remains of a pyramid like m 2f and that it was built as a monument to many citizens I that of the Mausoleum.^ Its present height is who had fallen in battle. To what period, then, can about 17 ft. ; the four lower feet being composed of it be assigned? Probably to either the repulse of immense blocks of marble, supporting eleven courses the Athenians by the Cnidians in B.C. 412; or to of travertine. On the west, and most perfect side, the defeat of the Lacedaemonians by Conon in B.C. a portion of the lower step of the stylobate still 394 ; and, of the two, it is more likely it was erected remains. No dafa have been obtained of the exact in commemoration of the former event, which was height of the columns once round the monument; one of much glory to the town. To the north and but, as, in an angle step, one tread was inches, 13 J- further inland, are two other tombs of precisely similar and the other only it is clear that this 10^, struc- construction, but inferior in size. ture, like the Mausoleum, was oblong. Although Having now devoted a considerable space to Hali- camassus and Cnidus, ' See Frontispiece. owing to their being, from recent ^ Mr. Falkener found at Ouran, in Phrygia, a monument researches, of such high importance, we must he has restored as similar to this Lion-tomb. We wish he had notice very briefly the other towns of Caria. The also given a sketch of the rain as he found it. (Museum Class. small town of Physcus is chiefly of interest for its mag- Antiq. i. p. 174.) I So GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 81 nificent bay and harbour, so well kno\\'n to modem temple of Jupiter Chrysaorius, the centre of the navigators (under the name of Marmorice), as one of political union of the Carian states. Stratonicea has the finest in the world for vessels of the largest size. been much explored by travellers ; and, so early as Possibly it was this very character that led to its 1709, Mr. Consul Sherard presented to the Earl of being so little noticed in antiquity, as ancient galleys Oxford a book of Greek inscriptions copied by him did not value depth of water. The capacity of the at various places in Asia Minor. This volume is bay of Marmorice will be best comprehended, when now in the Harleian collection. The most important we remind our readers that Nelson anchored his monument of the town is the celebrated edict of whole fleet within it, just before the battle of the Diocletian—in Greek and Latin—the first copy of Nile. Not far from this was Caunus, the ancient which, by Sherard, is in the volume just mentioned. capital of a population whom Herodotus held were The late 1 Colonel Leake has shown that its date is not Carians; indeed, their coins and architecture about A.D. 303, and its object to direct those en- seem to prove them Lycians. The site of Caunus gaged in the traffic of provisions not to exceed certain has been identified, there being still considerable fixed prices in times of scarcity. Fellows states that monumental remains and walls of so-called Cyclopean the names of many of the articles of food enumerated masonry. The Caunians were an active and high- therein are still used by the peasantry of Asia Minor. spirited race, and made a gallant resistance to the //ifer alia, we learn that silken garments were in Persians, a few years later joining with equal enthu- common use, as Ammianus^ pointed out, seventy siasm in the great Ionian revolt (Herod, v. 103). years later; as also the rough coat or birrhus, the Towards the close of the Peloponnesian war we find caracallis, or hooded cloak (afterwards adopted by Caunus constantly mentioned. Having been rejected the monks), the Gallic breeches and socks. The late by the Romans in a petition against Rhodes, they date of the inscription is shown by its barbarous conceived against them the bitterest hatred, and Latinity, above all, by the reduced value of the hence carried out with great atrocity the massacre of drachma or denarius. Thus a denarius appears as the the Romans planned by Mithradates (Appian, Mithr. equivalent of a single oyster, or of the hundredth c. 23). Caunus was so unhealthy in the summer part of a lean goose ! The names of the that "pale-faced Caunians" provisions became a proverb. recorded not only indicate the ordinary food of the Stratonicea (now Eski-hissar), one of the chief inland towns of Caria and mainly built by Antiochus ' See Trans. Roy. Soc. of Literature, ist series, 4to. vol. i. 181. Soter, derived its name from his Avife Stratonice. p. 1826. "" Ammiaiius was not The great Mithradates married thence his wife acquainted with the true origin of cilk He still describes it, as did Virgil and Pliny, Monima. Not far from the as a sort of woolly town was the famous substance {lanuoo) combed from a tree in China. ' 82 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. Z'^ people, but also the costly dainties of the epicure. Sir Charles Fellows has given an excellent descrip- Thus several kinds of honey, of ^ hams, of sausages, tion (Lycia, p. 32) of the state in which he found the of salt and fresh-water fish, of asparagus and of beans, ruins, with a beautiful drawing of the Ionic temple. are noted. Gibbon has not foiled " to notice this I never," says he, " saw in one place so many perfect inscription, though, in his day, it had been very im- remains, although by no means of a good age of the perfectly copied. arts " he thinks, : too, that the early city must have Aphrodisias was a considerable place, and, at a been in great measure destroyed. " These (the later) very late period, as appears from Hierocles, the capital walls are," he adds, " composed of the remains of of Caria. It is but little mentioned in ancient temples, tombs, and theatres removed, although un- history, but Tacitus records that, setting forth decrees injured. The reversed inscriptions, and inverted bas- of Caesar and Augustus in its favour,2 it pleaded be- reliefs bear testimony to this change." Sir Charles fore the Senate for the right of sanctuary attached to Fellows quotes one inscription as showing how care- its temples, when Tiberius was wisely attempting to fully the owners of these tombs endeavoured to secure abridge these injurious immunities. Aphrodisias was their preservation and sole occupancy. "But if," chiefly famous for its magnificent Ionic " temple of says the legend, contrary to these directions, anybody Venus, many columns of which are still standing. shall bury another (in this monument), let him be They may be seen in the third volume of the " Ionian accursed, and besides pay into the most holy treasury Antiquities," 1840,2 and in Mr. Pullan's work. denarii, 5,000 of which one-third is to be his who institutes the proceedings." ' ** Inscriptions with The derivation of the word sausage " may not be generally similar ' curses known. Icicium " * * " ' are, indeed, common enough. ' means minced meat " ; salsum icicium, the same salted. From the latter comes the Italian salsiccio, the Mylasa and Labranda may be taken together, as French sancisse, and the English sausage, ^ojecurjicattim from (Greek, the former a Sacred Way led to Labranda. The avKUTop), hog's liver, derived from the fattening ofgeese with figs former was, no doubt, in early times one ("pmguibus et ficis of the chief pastum jecur anseris albi," Horat. Satir. Ti. places in Caria, before Halicamassus 8, 88) is preserved in the Italian /<^a/^ and the modern Greek was adopted as avKori, used the royal residence for liver in general. It is curious to meet on a ; indeed, we find a proof of this decree on the walls of a temple in Caria with/m?^ Menapicce, in the fact that it had a temple to which Lydians and Westphalian hams. Mysians were alike admitted (Herod, i. Physcus, 2 171). "Dictatoris Csesaris ob vetusta in partes merita et recens Divi Augusti Tauropolis decretum" (Tacit. Ann. iii. 62). An inscription (as is shown on an inscription copied by Fellows), published by ChishuU and, again, to m his Antiq. Asiat. (p. 152), but, we believe, Stauropolis (or the city of the Cross). When, first copied by Sherard, hosvever, towards the confirms the statement of Tacitus. end of the fifth century, the festivals of ^ The of Venus were revived name Aphrodisias was more than once changed. by Asclepiodotus of Alexandria, the ancient Thus name was when Christianity began to prevail, the first change was to revived also. G 2 ! 84 CREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 85 to which we have already referred was considered as in identifying it (pp. 66—67). He says of it, its port. Mylasa, in ancient times, as Strabo avers, " The only conspicuous building of the place is a a city of great beauty, owed much to its having been beautiful temple of the Corinthian order, but I think built close to a mountain of the finest white marble. I not of the finest age It stands in a recess It was, indeed, so close, that one of the provincial in the hills, and is consequently not seen without governors observed that the founder of the town approaching close to it." ^ ought to have been ashamed of his blunder, if not frightened. 1 It was, also, so full of sacred buildings, \af3pvg was the Lydian and Carian word for axe (which we find that when Stratonicus came there, thinking there were represented also on the coins of Mausolus and Pixodanis). On more temples than people, he exclaimed, in the one of the Oxford marbles (ii. 12), probably an altar, occur the ** words Aiog Aa^pavpSov. middle of the forum, Hear, oh ye temples " ' Since Sir Charles's visit, this spot has been carefully ex- (Athen. viii. p. 348). amined by Mr. Pullan, who states that the building (of which The people of Mylasa having made a successful the fifteen columns still stand) is really of Roman times and resistance to the attacks of Philip, the son of De- work, though engraved (under the auspices of Dr. Chandler) as metrius, were rewarded by being made "free" by a Greek temple in the "Ionian Antiquities," vol. i. (Pullan, *' Ruins the Romans. Modern travellers, from Pococke to of Asia Minor," p. 26). Chandler, fully confirm the statements of the ancients as to the abundance of marble monuments; and Colonel Leake adds that, since they were there, the Turks have pulled down the best ruin, that of the Temple of Romulus and Augustus. Sir Charles I FelloAvs, on his second journey, observed on the key- stone of a gateway the double-headed axe (bipennis), indicating that the building to which it belonged had once been consecrated to the Jupiter of Labranda, a name said to have been derived from Xnjopvg, the Carian word for an axe; 2 and succeeded, also, ^ Strabo*s words are : Tavrriv yap, t^i;, ti)u ttoXiv 6 KTiffuQ il fit) l that there was a holy grove of plane-trees near it, uyioi> u\tu(: vXaravicTuv (v. 119). Plutarch (ii. p. 302 A) states that — S6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 87 former being carried back by Sleep and Death to Lycia to be honoured with a s/e/e and tomb. Pan- dams, too, the celebrated archer, is also a Lycian. On CHAPTER III. the overthrow of Croesus, Harpagus, Cyrus's general, was sent to reduce Lycia with a mixed force of Per- Xanthus—Sir Charles Fellows Telmessus Patara — — —Pinara sians, Dorians, and lonians ; the Glaucidse, or royal Myra—Tlos and Antiphellus—Attalia—Perge—Eurj-medon J family of Lycia, having vigorously supported the Aspendus — Side — Termessus— Cremna—Sagalassus—Selge lonians in their resistance to Cyrus. —AntiochofPisidia—Tarsus—Coracesium—Laertes—Selinus this occasion — Anemurium — Celenderis — Seleuceia — Corycus — Soli On Xanthus made a memorable Adana—Mallus—Mopsuestia—Anazarbus—Issus. defence. It is said that, when driven from the plain by the united forces of the Persian and confederate We come now to Zja'a, of which many of the army, its people took refuge in their citadel, and, most important monuments are now in the Lycian collecting therein their wives, children, and treasures, room at the British Museum—for the most part the burnt them, at the same time falling to a man in a records of its chief town, Xanthus—and all pro- furious sally upon their enemies (Herod, i. 176). cured by Sir Charles Fellows. A few less valuable That the Persian success was complete, we know remains, were, at the same time, obtained from other from the fact, that, sixty years later, the then Xan- Lycian towns. thians sent fifty ships to the aid of Xerxes, and con- The chief value of the monuments from Lycia lies If tinued, subsequently, to pay an annual tax to the in this, that, while they exhibit many well-executed Persian monarchs.^ Yet their courage was not pieces of sculpture, interesting as a local or provincial subdued ; for when Alexander, after his victory over rendering of Greek work of the middle of the fourth the Persians at the Graneicus, descended into Lycia, century B.C., they comprise, also, a few slabs, as, for at Xanthus, and there alone, he met with an obstinate instance, It' those from the Harpy tomb, of a genuine resistance. Archaic type. In the subsequent war, the Xanthians supported Xanthus, the town from which the greater part of the monuments about to be described have been ^ It has been suggested (see Rawlinson's Herodotus, i. p. 312) secured, underwent remarkable vicissitudes of fortune, that the family of Harpagus continued to govern Lycia, and that some of which, it has been thought, are indicated on the Xanthian obelisk (to which we shall presently refer) was erected soon after the battle of Eurymedon, B.C. 466. But its scupltures. Originally, it was a Cretan colony "son of Harpagus," on that monument, may easily mean no settled at or near Xanthus; hence we read, in the more than his descendant, just as Jehu was called "the son of ! Iliad, of Sarpedon and Glaucus, as the leaders of the Omri." I.ycians in the Trojan army, and of the body of the SB GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 89 Antigonus ; hence the assault and capture of the town The first stands on the east side of the city, and was by Ptolemy; and, during the war between Brutus and constructed of white marble on a basement of grey the Triumvirs, the former entered Lycia, and a bloody Lycian stone. Two or more friezes had once sur- attack on, and siege of, Xanthus were the natural rounded it, representing contests between warriors results. We are told, that on this occasion, the people fully armed after the Greek fashion, or more lightly of the town did as they had done before when clad in tunics or naked, and wearing helmets. Sir assaulted by Harpagus, destroying themselves, their C. Fellows imagines he can recognize, in some cases, wives, and their children, in a similar holocaust. the loose-robed bearded Lycians, with their pecu- Subsequently, we hear little of Xanthus, except liar arms and curtained shields,^ the battle being that it suffered severely from the two great earth- that in the plains recorded by Herodotus.^ Asiatics quakes in the days of Tiberius and Antoninus Pius. are certainly represented on some of the slabs with The town of Xanthus was situated on the left bank the pointed cap or cydaris, while, on other slabs is of the Sirbes 1 or Sirbus, called Xanthus or the Yellow an attack on the main gate of a strongly-fortified by the Greeks ; at a distance of between 6 and 7 towTi. On another relief is a Persian satrap seated, miles from the sea. On the highest point was the with the umbrella, or symbol of sovereignty, over his Acropolis, a Roman work, built chiefly out of the head, and on other slabs, are indications of a sortie ruins of the older town. On the brow of the hill from the city and of its repulse. The city may or stood what has been called the Harpy tomb. may not be Xanthus itself, but, within the walls, are The monuments found at Xanthus may be arranged well-known monuments of that town, upright square under the head of (i) the so-called Ionic trophy monument,2 Persians and lonians" (Mus. of Class. Antiq. vol. i. 132); and (2) Miscellaneous reliefs, (3) Tombs. Mr. Watkiss Lloyd has published an able memoir on it, entitled **Xanthian Marbles—the Nereid Monument." m ' Dionysius Periegetes testifies to both names : ' This "curtain'* was a sort of appendage attached to the Si'/Spy £7r' apyvpsift jrorafjiip lower end of the shield, and was intended to protect the legs and . . . from stones. It was called Xaiaifiov, and is mentioned in Hom. AuvOov twl TTpoxotJaiv . , . k. r. \. (v. 847.) II. V. 453 : - On the whole, amriSag IvkvkXovc XaiffrfioTe irTtposvra. it seems most likely that this monument was the sanctuary of some local hero, possioly of the original founder A vase published by Inghirami well represents the usual or leader {diKiarrjg or apx'^yirj^f), like the Theseum at Athens. character of this appendage. Millingen supposes the subject of It might, therefore, have been the Harpageum, or memorial of this vase to be "Antiope leading Theseus to the walls of The- Harpagus, or of the Harpagi. Mr. '. Benjamin Gibson has sup- miscyra." (Cf. Miiller, Arch. d. Kunst, § 342.) posed that the ** Trophy monument" was intended to com- ^ Some of these scenes may refer to real events in the history memorate "the conquest of Lycia by the united forces of the of Xanthus ; and the Oriental chief, too, on the " Trophy " monu- ment would seem to be aided by Greek mercenaries. I ; <)0 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 91 pillars or sUl^, four of which are represented.^ The by Sir Charles Fellows, as a peripteral tetrastyle temple, may be seen in the Lycian room in the British Museum. We regret, however, we cannot accept his view, that the subject of these sculptures is the capture ot Xanthus by Harpagus, as this event took place in B.C. 545 ; while none of these reliefs can be as early as B.C. 400.^ 2. 11 The Miscellaneous reliefs found in and about Q the Acropolis are chiefly relics of much older buildings N H they are generally in the rough, gritty stone of the < country, and have some resemblance to early Greek work, especially to the sculptures from Assos. Their < chief H subjects are a lion devouring a deer, and a satyr, < m the size of life, running along the ground. The Tombs. < 3. The tomb-system, so to speak, •— as developed in Lycia, is a striking characteristic of that province, and has been, therefore, carefully studied by Sir Charles Fellows, who has classed them, n ' according to their forms, under the heads of Obelisk, Gothic, and Elizabethan. The first, as the name implies, is simply a square block surmounted by a cap and cor- nice; the second and third have lancet-head tops or deep muUioned recesses, respectively. Of the two first the British Museum has excellent specimens; the third was chiefly used for carvings on the face of solid "Trophy monument," which has been cleverly restored rocks. All alike exhibit imitations of wooden struc- tures with panelled doors, bossed nails, and knockers ^ It has been suggested that the so-called triqiidra on the suspended from lions' mouths. One of these tombs, Lycian coins, consisting of three curved objects, like sickles or the so-called Harpy-tomb, from its great curiosity, elephant-goads, or the harpa [lipTn]) of Perseus, joined in the we centre, is emblematic of the name of Harpagus. Such "canting ' The plate on the opposite page must not be considered as heraldry" (as in the case of ArJ>i in Apulia, and oi Zancle in more than a possible arrangement of some of the sculptures Sicily) is not, however, accepted by the best numismatists as of found. approved Greek use, though possible enough among a semi- Oriental population. 92 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. must notice somewhat fully. It consists of a square column about 17 J feet high, in one piece of stone, surmounted by a series of bas-reliefs, forming the walls of a square chamber, seven feet each way, and m having a small door on its west side. On these \valls are representations of Harpies, between whom, in each case, is a group consisting of one seated and one standing figure. There is reason to suppose the sub- ject of these reliefs a local myth, and, as the daughters of a Lycian hero, Pandarus, are said to have been carried off by Harpies, this is not improbably the subject here. Harpies are usually, as here, indicated with the faces, breasts, and hands of women, and with bodies and feet of vultures. It is possible that this sfde may have been the tomb of some prince of the o royal family of Lycia, who claimed descent from the I til mythical hero, Pandarus. No certain date can be o assigned to it ; but, had it been executed in Attica H instead of Lycia, B.C. 530 would not have been too early for it. In any case, its execution must have 5^ O preceded the Persian conquest of Lycia. >iA\ One of the most interesting of the Gothic tombs is that of a man whose name has been read Paiafa, and who was, probably a satrap of Lycia. The top of this structure much resembles an inverted boat, with a high ridge running along it, like a keel. On each side of the roof is an armed figure in a quadriga -} on the ' Herodotus remarks that the people of Bithynia carried two Lycian spears, and had helmets of brass, on the summits of which were the ears and horns of an ox. Cf. also, on coins, the helmet of Eukratides, king of Bactriana. 94 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 95 north side, below the tympanum, the Satrap is seated as nides (B.C. 556), and a notice of the achievements a judge, his dress and general appearance being the of this son of Harpagus. The whole inscription con- same as that of the Persian on the Trophy monument. sists of about 250 lines. In concluding these notes on Xanthus, we may Over the other towns of Lycia, Telmessus, Patara, allude to some casts from a tomb at Pinara, PiNARA, hard by, Myra, Tlos, and Antiphellus, it is not carved on the face of the solid rock. Sir Charles necessary for us to dwell at any great length, the Fellows states that, in the centre of this city, there rises more so that they were not, historically, of great im- a round rocky cliff, speckled all over with tombs, many portance, and are to us only interesting for the re- of them being only oblong holes, and quite inacces- mains of art still visible on the spot. sible. One cast gives the representation of a walled Telmessus was on the coast, and is now repre- city with tombs, towers, gates, and walls ; the battle- sented by the village of Makri.i In ancient times it ments, on the whole, much resembling the town shown was famous for the skill of its augurs. Herodotus on the " Trophy monument." Another cast gives the tells us they were often consulted by the kings of interior of the portico of a rock tomb at Tlos, with Lydia, and especially by Croesus ; and Arrian ascribes Bellerophon, one of the heroes of Lycia, triumphing to them a remote antiquity. Their reputation long over the Chimaera. survived ; for Cicero speaks of the town thus :—" Tel- It only remains for us to notice the famous messus in Caria est qua in urbe excellit haruspicum Inscribed Stele, the longest inscription yet disciplina" met with (De Divin. i. 41). In early Christian in the Lycian character, and containing a notice of a times it had a bishop. Telmessus has been fully son of Harpagus, and the names of several Lycian described by Dr. Clarke and Sir Charles Fellows. towns. On the north side, between the lines of Its monumental remains are almost wholly tombs; Lycian characters, is a Greek inscription in twelve but these are, many of them, remarkable for their hexameter lines,^ the first from an epigram of Simo- beauty, as also for the extraordinary labour bestowed ^ on Colonel Leake (Trans, of the Roy. Soc. of Literature, them in cutting them out of the face of the rock. vol. ii. has given a 1844) translation of the twelve lines in Sir Charles Fellows makes the curious remark, that, Greek, shovvinj? that this monument was erected by a certain though the Greek population of Lycia were mainly Datis, called a son of Plarpagus. It states that he had gained Dorians, he did the highest not meet with any tombs or other honours in the Carian games, and had slain "in monuments unquestionably of one day seven heavy-armed soldiers, men of Arcadia." The the Doric order. epigram Patara, of Simonides (Anthol. Brunck. vol. i, on the left bank of the river i p. 134) com- Xanthus, memorates the battles at Cyprus and on the Eurymedon, * Fellows remarks that the Meio of the maps and of the B.C. 470. Another conjecture is that the son of Harpagus was " Modern Traveller " (supposed, called too, by Cramer to be a corrup- Sparsis {Leake, ibid. p. 32). Colonel Leake thinks the ion of Telmessus) is not known in the country. date of the inscription not earlier than B. C. 400. \ I I i : 96 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 97 was chiefly celebrated for its worship and temples probably rebuilt) in the fourth consulate of Antoninus of the Lycian Apollo, known by the appellation Pius, A.D. 145. of Patareus.1 According to Herodotus (i. 182), the PiNARA, at the foot of Mount Cragus, was another priestess who delivered it was shut up in the temple of the six Lycian towns in which divine honours every^ night, but the oracular responses were only were paid to the hero Pandarus, Homer's celebrated occasional. The Patarasan oracle was very ancient, I archer : its name is said to be a Lycian word for a and considered scarcely inferior to that of Delphi! round hill (v. Aprv/xrrjffog, ap. Ptol.; Plin. v. 28; Captain Beaufort, in his 4 account of Karamania, places Hierocl. p. 684) ; and such a hill, pierced everywhere the remains of Patara 2 near the shore, and notices for tombs. Fellows found, as we have stated, in the very " a deep circular pit of singular appearance, which centre of it. Such a physical feature would not have may have been the seat of the oracle." Fellows been overlooked by any Greeks. He adds that " the alludes to " a beautiful small temple about the centre whole city appears to be of one date and people," the of the ruined city," with a doorway '' of beautiful inscriptions being generally in the Lycian character.^ Greek workmanship, ornamented in the Corinthian The carvings on the rock-tombs here, judging from style, and in fine proportion and scale." The port of the drawing he gives (p. 141), are of much interest Patara, which was too small to contain the combined and beauty. fleet of the Romans and Rhodians under Regillus in Myra, sometimes called Andriace (whence the the war with Antiochus (Liv. xxxvii. 17) is now com- modem Andraki)^ was, according to Appian, a place pletely overgrown with brushwood, &c. The theatre of some note, and it is still remarkable for the beauty is shown by an inscription to have been built (more and richness of its rock-cut tombs (Pullan). The Sacred historian of St. Paul's journeyings writes that, ' Hor. Od. iii. 4, 62 : Delius aut Patareus Apollo. after quitting Sidon and Cyprus, "when we had Stat. Theb. i. 696 sailed over the Sea of Cilicia and Pamphylia, we .... Sen te Lyciie Patarcea nivosis came to Myra, a city of Lycia ; and there the centu- Exercent dumeta jugis. ' rion found a ship of Alexandria sailing into Italy, and Virg. ^n. iv. 143 : he put us therein " (Acts xxvii. Myra, at a late Qualis 5, 6). ubi hibernam Lyciam Xanthique fluenta period, seems to have been the metropolis of the Deserit, ac Delum maternam invisit Apollo. province (Malala, Chron. xiv. ; Hierocl. p. 684). On which passage Servius makes the remark that the oracles A Nicholas, Bishop of is were delivered alternately, Myra, also mentioned -during the winter months at Patara, (Const. and durmg the summer at Delos. Porphyr. Themist. 14). Colonel Leake ob- ' Cicero uses the Ethnic form Pataranus (Orat. ' in Flacc Colonel Leake (Roy. Soc. Lit. i. p. 267) was of the opinion c. 32). that the Lycian characters were modifications of Archaic Greek. II 98 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 99 serves that, on the banks of the river by which Lucul- finished he had seen, for the seats were not only of lus ascended to Myra, are the ruins of a large building, polished marble, but each seat had an overhanging which, from an inscription, appears to have been a cornice, often supported by lions' paws. An inscrip- granary, erected in the i time of Hadrian ; and Fellows tion found there records the name of Sarpedon, " adds that the tombs are generally very large, and showing that the name of the mythical hero of Lycia all appear to have for been families, some having was still preserved among the people. The name for small chambers, one leading to the other, and some tomb at Tlos is always Heroum. highly interesting from their interior peculiarities of As the provinces are so closely connected, we shall arrangement." Many bas-reliefs within the porticos of take Pamphylia and Pisidia together, simply selecting the tombs still retain their original colour, as may be from them such sites as seem of the highest interest. seen on the casts from them in the British Museum. We shall, therefore, notice first Attalia (the modern Tlos and Antiphellus, though occasionally men- Adalia), although there has been some dispute among tioned in ancient times, had been well-nigh forgotten geographers whether Adalia does really occupy the till these and other sites were diligently sought out by site of the old city: the true course of a stream travellers. modem Leake speaks of the latter as con- called Catarrhactes,! from its plunging headlong over taining a theatre nearly complete, with many catacombs precipices into the sea, being still undetermined, has and sarkophagi, some very large and magnificent ; and mainly led to this confusion. The probability is Fellows thinks the tombs here the largest in Lycia. that, owing to the agency of earthquakes, the coast- " *' The rocks for miles round," he says, are streAvn line has been much changed during the last 2,000 with their fragments, and many hundreds are still years : moreover, Colonel Leake and others believe standing, apparently unopened." the calcareous matter brought down, in this period by Tlos, of which we know little more than that it lay the different streams, sufficient to cause the cessation on the road to Cibyra, was first accurately determined of any such cascade, the main stream having been also Sir by Charles Fellows, who considered the original much diverted to fertilize the gardens round the town. city must have been demolished in very early times, The physical changes have in fact, been so great, that as " finely-wrought fragments are now seen built into it is more wonderful that anything can be determined the strong walls which have fortified the town raised on a certain and satisfactory basis. Captain Beaufort its ruins." upon The theatre was the most highly- thought the modern town occupied the site of Olbia.^ ' Beaufort gives a minute description of this building, and ^ Colonel Leake remarks that, after heavy rains, the river states that it is 200 feet long, with walls 20 feet high. The precipitates itself copiously over the cliffs near the projecting inscription on it, " Horrea Imp. Caesaris Divi Traiani point of the coast, a little to the west of Laara. Hadrian I, "&c., proves that it has been a granary: it was divided - "The delightful situation of this place," says he, "appears into seven separate compartments. H 2 : : lOO GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. lOI On the other hand, Leake considered Adalia the olden times for the temple and worship of Artemis representative of AttaHa, and that Olbia would Pergaea.i The date of the city is uncertain, but it probably be found in some part of the plain which lasted, as an ecclesiastical centre, till late in the Byzan- extends for seven miles from the modern Adalia to tine times. Alexander, in his march eastwards, occu- the foot of Mount Solyraa." Attalia derived its name pied Perge, finding, as might have been expected, from Attalus Philadelphus. From it, St. Paul and St. much difficulty in his advance through the adjacent Barnabas, on their return, sailed to the Syrian Antioch mountains : St. Paul, too, and St. Barnabas were here (Acts xiv. In later times it the seat of a 25). was twice ; first, on their way from Cyprus ; and, secondly, bishopric. It is now the principal southern Turkish on their return to Syria. The ruins noticed by General l)ort of Asia Minor, and has many ancient remains. Kohler, at a place called £sh' Kalesi, were probably " Leake remarks on the walls and other fortifications, those of this place. The theatre and stadium are still the magnificent gate or triumphal arch, bearing an in quite perfect. On these walls and other buildings the in scription honour of Hadrian, an aqueduct, and the Greek shield is constantly carved, reminding the spec- ^ numerous fragments— of sculpture and architecture." tator of the passage in Ezekiel, xxvii. 11," They hanged Fellows adds : " Adalia, which is called by the Turks their shields upon thy walls round about." Atalia, I prefer to any Turkish town that I have yet Passing along the coast to the east we come to visited ; every house has its garden, and consequently the EuRYMEDON, physically a small stream, yet cele- the town has the appearance of a wood, and of what ? brated in history for the double defeat, on one and —orange, lemon, fig, vine, mulberry, all cultivated the same day, of the Persians by Cimon. The Persian 'vvith the artificial care of a town garden, and now ships were drawn up at the mouth of the river, but, (April in It 3) fresh spring beauty." was from Attalia, at the first attack, the crews fled to the shore. Cimon " or from its neighbourhood, that Mark turned back"^ then landed his men, and after a severe struggle the (Acts xiii. 13). camp and baggage were taken (Thucyd. i. 100 ; Plut. Nearly due N. of Attalia was Perge, famous in Vit. Cimon.). Some years later, a Rhodian fleet anchored off" its mouth before attacking the fleet of to have been clearly alluded to in the ancient name Olbia, de- rived from the adjective o\/3toff, blessed or happy" (Kara- commencement of their journey Attalia is not mentioned by mania, p. 137). name, but only Perga (Acts xiii. 13). ' Mr. Davis notices the great gate, the inside of it being ' Perge is mentioned in Callimachus's Hymn to Diana, v. 1S7 "ceiled" with small squares of fine white marble and bearing Nr/ffwv [uv AoXixT], voXiwvdk toi evade Uspyij ; the curious inscription, rh epyop rrJQ TrXaKuxritoQ rijQ TrvXijg— and in Dionysius Periegetes, v. 854 HXuKojffiQ classical is does not occur in Greek ; but ttXcc^ a flat I 'AXXat S* t^ei'i/c Jla/KpyXiStg ehi TroXrieg surface, and irXuKou) is to cover with such pieces. Hence, KiopvKOQy Ilspyij re, Kai TJvefi6t(Taa ^daijXtg. rrXaKtoTTjQ fxapfxdpov is one who overlays with marble. In the ASIA MINOR. 103 102 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF Pamphylia prima, and was still in existence when Antiochus, then commanded by Hannibal (Livy, of Hierocles wrote. Capt. Beaufort found it utterly de- xxxvii.). The entrance of this stream is now com- but its remains would seem to be very striking, pletely blocked up by a bar.^ serted ; its outer walls and theatre, which is not less On the Eurymedon was seated the old Argive especially in external diameter, with a perpendi- town of AsPENDUS, some of the coins of which than 409 feet from the area, of feet : all its seats are, read, barbarously, ESTFEANTS. Thucydides speaks cular height, 79 Capt. Beaufort says, of white marble, and the building of it as a seaport ; but he, probably, means that it was comfortably could have held 13,370 persons, sitting ; a boat-station at the mouth of the river. Aspendus adds, " in a very perfect state ; few of the is noticed by Arrian, and was the place where it is, he been disturbed, even the stairs are, in Thrasybulus was slain in his tent by the natives; seats have general, passable." The same observer considered it is also mentioned in the campaign of Manlius that, at some later period, this great structure had (Liv. xxxviii. ; Polyb. xxii.).^ jVIr. Pullan gives a beau been converted into a fortress, as walls, with towers tiful drawing of its theatre, which is by far the most but of inferior work, now extend to the perfect in Asia Minor. One other place of con- and gates, seashore. siderable reputation in Pamphylia must be briefly Our knowledge of the ancient geography of Pisidia noted; viz. Side, a colony of the Cumaeans ot is mostly derived from Arrian's notice of Alexander's -^olis, and remarkable for the fact that, soon after from Livy's account of the expedition of they came there they forgot their native Greek tongue, march, Manlius Vulso, and from the details in Polybius and spoke a barbarous jargon. It was off this town C. the hostilities carried on by Garsyeris, the general the battle was fought when the fleet of Antiochus, of against the people of Termessus, one under Hannibal, was utterly routed by the Rhodians. of Achasus, its chief cities. At the time Manlius was ap- When, somewhat later, the pirates of Cilicia became so of this town the Termessians were in open formidable. Side was one of their chief harbours, and proaching war with the people of Isionda or Isinda, and, having one of the markets where they disposed of their ill captured this city, were besieging the citadel. The gotten plunder. Side was in Roman times the capital » Roman general was not sorry to have so good a ' Dr. Arnold has shown that, in the account in Thucyd. i. loo, pretext for interfering ; hence his march on Isinda, the phrase diB Coransez, as extending over nearly a square league, pursued by Manlius subsequently. ^ Creaina, where, and as . remarkable for their massive structure. owing to its great natural strength, the Romans Termessus itself was evidently at the entrance of placed a colony (Strab. xii. 569), has been carefully the defiles whereby Pisidia communicates with Pam- examined by Mr. Davis ("Anatolica," p. 182), who phylia and Lycia. Arrian says that "the men of gives also a plan, showing the construction of this Termessus occupy a site very lofty :'^ and precipitous remarkable fortress. His description is as follows on every side, the road passing close to the city being "It (Kremna) is a plateau of limestone, which is very difficult, as the mountain reaches down from the bounded on three sides by precipices, some extremely city to the road. There is over against this, another deep and abrupt." mountain not less precipitous, and these form a gate, " From it," he adds, " the country inclined rapidly as it were, on the road," &c. This statement is fully I*! in its general formation to the valley of the Kestrus, confirmed by the observation of General Kohler (ap. which must have been at least 5,000 feet below us. Leake, Asia Minor, pp. 133—135): "The two great .... Most of the buildings of the city lay to the ranges on the west and north of the plains of N.W. of our point of ascent. On the N.E. and N. Adalia," says he, " now approach each other, and, at was an extensive open space cultivated, but with length, are only divided by the passes through which many oak trees and with much underwood scattered the river finds its way. The road, however, ? leaves over it." Zosimus (A.D. 425) relates the his- this gorge to the right, and ascends the mountain by tory of the blockade of Kremna by a Roman army. a paved and winding causeway, a work of great labour It had been occupied by Lydius, an I saurian free- and ingenuity."! Alexander the Great, it would booter, and his provisions falling short, he caused seem, despaired of taking the town; or, possibly, a part of the plateau to be sowed with com. A thought its siege would detain him too long; he, however, forced the defiles, passing on to the north ' to Cramer and some other geographers place Cremna to f/ie N. Cormasa, Cremna, and Sagalassus, a course probably as well as the E. of Sagalassus, where it could not have been. ^ The description in Arundell, vol. ii. pp. 59, &c., shows that ^ There is some confusion between the two Termessi, one of he had explored the same ruins forty years before Mr. Davis, which is apparently to the left of the road passing W. and N. W. under the idea they were those of Selge, though, on his plate, he from Adalia, This we think was Termessus Minor—the Almaln adds the words, "Acropolis of Germe—Cremna." Colonel of Mr. Davis. The more important place, Termessus Major (on Leake, too, suggested that "Germe" was perhaps a corruption its coins fiuKfov), was at the head of the pass described. These of" Cremna." Had Mr. Arundell reflected on an inscription views are confirmed by Eustath. and Dion. Perieg. v. 858, he himself copied there . . AAH . . NATQN, he might have Stephan. Byzant., and Hierocles. At a later period, the see of seen that the last word could naturally be supplied as KPHM- Termessus had united with it — the churches of two other places NATQN " of the people of Kremna." Zosimus says the wind- Jovia and Eudocia. ing path up to the fortress was called by the natives the Snau, OF ASIA MINOR. 107 io6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS times, was a bishopric. still standing,, Ptolemy, and, in Christian great double gate is the only structure height above the exactly in the same Some magnificent ruins, at a great and, as all the columns have fallen to those they were plain, have been proved by Mr. Arundell be direction, Mr. Davis reasonably conjectures place, as he found there an inscription reading overthrown by a single shock of an earthquake. of this i8 feet SAPAAASSEiiN HOAIS THS EISIAIAS, "The Some well-paved streets are traceable, one along each of the Sagalassians of Pisidia." The position of wide, with tombs and corridors running City engravings remarkable, physi- the old town, as may be seen in one of the side. It is curious that a place so exceedingly writers. Thus, in Mr. Arundell's second Journey, is cally, is scarcely mentioned by ancient feel sure Arrian is correct of Alexander, who picturesque ; and we may it is not noticed in the campaign taken by that Alexander encountered a stiff resistance must have passed under it, but it was in stating his into the Amyntas (xii. its inhabitants ere he forced way Strabo's contemporary, the Galatian from stated, a Roman town. 569),! and was still later, as we have Cremna." remains of Sagalassus are mostly colony with the tide " Colonia Julia Augusta The existing i' polygonal an over- but there is one very old wall of Its name is obviously derived from KorjfxvoQj Roman, of the principal ruins, with a por- hanging precipice.2 Kremna was a Christian bishopric, masonry. One probably recorded. feet long by 27 feet wide, has but only one of its bishops, Theodorus, is tico 300 singu- church : there is, also, a Sagalassus was taken by Alexander, after a severe been a Christian Christian all the rest perfect theatre. The ruins of the conflict, the result being, says Arrian, that larly of vast proportions, con- M } the a building Y of Pisidia submitted to his arms (i. 28). On church exhibit ravaging huge blocks of marble, with Corinthian other hand, Manlius contented himself with structed of is cut compelling the Sa- two feet in diameter. A large cross the territory around it ; thereby columns of of the blocks at the principal entrance. galassians to pay a heavy contribution both deep into one modern village Allahsiin, money and produce. Both Arrian and Livy bear Mr. Hamilton, who calls the Asia is no other ruined city in testimony to the wariike and independent character says that "there while situation and extensive remains of which of the mountaineers of this part of Asia Minor ; Minor, the Romans, or so interesting, or which give so Strabo adds that it passed over to the are so striking, of tetrarch of of the magnificent combination as one of the tovms of Amyntas, the perfect an idea gymnasia, fountains, and Lycaonia. Sagalassus is further noUced by Pliny and temples, palaces, theatres, worid."i tombs which adorned the cities of the ancient aTropOriTa vportpov » 'AfivvTOQ iroWd x**>9i<^ e^tlXcv, ,^ffl I (Strab. xii. 569). ovra, S)v Kal Kprjfiva high, insulated, and » Hamilton adds-*' To the south is a 2 the point :—Kpjjfivav Zosimus's description is exactly to Acropolis,. agreeing with Arrian's description of the Kal Kara fiepoQ conical hill, . . iv airoKprifiv(f} re Ksifievriv x«P«^P«'e , front of the city." \o(pbg Trpo r^e 7r6\eo>Q—3L hill in j3a9vTUTaig oxvpwfili/ijv (i. c. 69). io8 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 109 One other place in Pisidia we have yet to men- prove its existence till a late date. One would have tion, Selge, of old one of its chief cities, yet, thought that such a place, would have left remains strange to say, at present behind it amply sufficient for its identification unidentified, or only so ; yet doubtfully. Originally a colony from Laced^mon, all we can say, certainly, of it is that it could not have Selge maintained throughout its whole history the been far to the east or south-east of Sagalassus. From character of its founders, and, probably, owing to Zosimus, we might be led to look for it between the better laws and government, soon surpassed all Cestius and Eurymedon, for Tribigildus, having crossed I the neighbouring towns in population and power, the latter, found himself enclosed between it and the Strabo believing " that it once had as many as Melas : and possibly. Fellows did discover it. On 20,000 inhabitants. Much of its success was due this promontory," says he, *' stood one of the finest to the security of its position, high among the moun- cities that probably ever existed, now presenting magni- tains and difficult of access. Hence, the Selgians ficent wrecks of grandeur. I rode for at least three retained their personal freedom, and, though more miles through a part of the city, which was one pile of than once compelled to pay heavily and deservedly temples, theatres, and buildings, vieing with each other for their own in aggressions, were never dispossessed splendour. . . . The material of the ruins, like those of their town by actual conquest. Naturally, they near Alaysoon (Sagalassus) had suffered much from ex- w^ere constantly in conflict with their neighbours, posure to the elements ... but the scale, the simple especially, with Telmessus and Pednelissus.i They grandeur, and the beauty of style bespoke its date to had, however, the sense to conciliate Alexander be early Greek. The sculptured cornices frequently I when he passed through their country. In the war with contain groups of figures fighting, wearing helmets Pednelissus, it would seem that, aided by the then and body armour, with shields and long spears." most powerful chief of the neighbouring country, Unfortunately, Fellows did not find a single legible in- Achaeus compelled the Selgians to sue for scription, but the remains are, very likely, what Beau- /= peace, to pay down 400 talents, to fort " restore the prisoners they heard of at Alaya ; viz., extensive remains of an taken, had and to give 300 talents more. Yet, in ancient Greek city with many temples, about fifteen an actual attack on the city he was repulsed with hours' distance (say 35 miles) to the northward." ^^ heavy loss (Polyb. v. 72-77). The coins of Selge The neighbourhood of Selge produced, and produces, two useful botanical substances ; one, the balsam of styrax or ^ It should be noted here, that the finding gold or silver coins storax (liquid-amber orientalis), the juice of an umbrageous at a place is not alone sufficient evidence for its name, thougli tree like the plane. Krinos (Trtpi Srupa/cog, Athens, 1862—) such a discovery is a presumption in favour of it. Where, how- shows it has been correctly described by Aetius and Paulu& ever, a large number of small copper coins are found, the presump- ^gineta in the 6th tion becomes and 7th centuries. It is noticed, also, in the very strong. Obviously, gold and silver coins may, Travels of the Russian Abbot of Tver, A.D. 11 13-5. The easily, pass from one site to another, simply as objects of commerce. OF ASIA MINOR. Ill no GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Amyntas the Lycaonian. At an early period of the account of the Pisidian, or I Lastly, we must give an empire, Antioch was known as Caesarea, and some- accurately, the Phrygian, Antioch, a town of more what later, according to Ulpian, its citizens enjoyed highest interest to the Christian reader, from its the the Jus Italicum, that is, the same privileges as with St. Paul's early labours. It is re- connection native Romans. At the time of St. Paul's visit it years ago, its position was not known, markable that, 50 was the centre of a great commercial activity. Ac- ancient notices of it, carefully studied, seem though the cording to Strabo, Antioch was on the south side point out, pretty clearly, where it ought to have to of the mountain boundary of Phrygia and Pisidia , been found. Little is known of this Antioch in early Phrygian town, being exactly (p. 577), Philomelium, a times, but it was, traditionally, a colony of Magnesia to the north, the latter standing on level ground, Mseander. Afterwards, like almost all the on the while Antioch stood on a small eminence.^ It was to\\Tis of Eastern and Central Asia Minor, it fell reserved for Mr. Arundell to show, almost certainly, under the rule of the Seleucidse, and, on their over- exceedingly its true site,^ and his description is throw, was given by the Romans to Eumenes ot interesting. Almost his first discovery was a "long Pergamus as one of the rewards for his faithful and immense building, constructed with prodigious alliance. Subsequently, it was, for a while, under stones, and standing south and west." This was a church, not improbably constructed on the site of the author of the " Periplus" states that, in his time, storax went, " Synagogue where St. Paul preached. The remains as it does now, by way of the Red Sea to India. In India it is of the aqueduct," he adds, " of which twenty-one called Rose Malloes (Rosa Mallas, Rosum Alloes, Rosmal), perhaps from the Malay, Rasamala. This gum is extracted » geographers, even Colonel Leake, seem to have gone now by the Yuruk Turkomans, and is still used in the churches All interpretation of Strabo. Thus, D'Anville and mosques of S. Asia IVIinor for incense. One form of this astray here, in their placed Antioch at Ak-Shehr (12 or 13 miles to the N., on the substance is Resina Beiizoe—Gum Benjamin ^ or Benzoin (Ilni Philomelium), and such, too, would seem to have Batuta's Travels, A.D. 1325-49—who says it comes from Java, real site of the opinion of the Latin historians of the Crusades, and and is called Java Frankincense or Camphor). The popular name been Comnena. In the Peutinger tables, a great road is a corruption of Lubdn Jdwi into Ban-jawi, &c. Crawfurd €ven of Anna Antioch. is from Iconium to Side, with a branch to thinks it the old Malabathrum. It is stated by Vasco da Gama marked explained, if the present Yalobatch represents to be a product of Xamuz (Siam). This is well The other substance is Rhizoma Iridis (popularly Orris-root), Antioch. 2 Mr. Arundell's discovery, if we say that, used of old for giving a sweet odour to unguents {see Theophras- We do not discredit pro- text of his travels, he rather suggests a strong tus, Dioskorides, and Pliny). The ancient arms of Florence were in the actual proves his discovery. He did not find any inscrip- a white lily or iris on a red shield. Orris-root was used as a per- bability than the town. His argument is, however, fume in England in 1480 (Wardrobe Accounts of Edward IV.), tion with the name of other place in that neighbourhood, and, according to Gerarde, was grown here. In Tuscany it is a strong inference that no could have left such vast remains. still grown under the name of Giaggiolo. but Antioch, 112 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. II Christianus," enumerated arches are perfect, are the most splendid I ever Quien, in his "Oriens Metho- beheld, the stones without cement, of the same massy twenty-six bishops of Antioch. One of these, the dimensions as the wall." dius, and six other metropolitans subscribed against the errors of A little further on he met with undoubted remains, protest of the Eastern Church found at Antioch of a Temple of Bacchus, with the thyrsus or Bacchic Calvin. Hamilton, subsequently, CAESARE, emblem, and an inscription stating that an inscription reading ANTIOCHEAE If one Calpumius. the truth of Arundeirs inferences (i. was " High Priest for hfe to the most glorious god which proves 474)- P- , CiLiciA had but few towns of much importance, and these chiefly on the coast or not far inland. Indeed, when we have mentioned Tarsus, Soli, Mallus, and Mopsuestia, we have noticed the principal places in this province. Of these. Tarsus ^ alone calls for any abolished for some time, but to have been revived in Roman days, as coins exist with the god Lunus leaning on a column, and the legend COL. MEN. ANTIOCH, or MENSIS. COL. with the name of CAES. ANTIOCH. ; and inscriptions exist L. Flavins Paulus— who is termed CVRATORI ARCiE SANCTVARII. Strabo, a native of Amasia, states that a god called Men Phamaces was worshipped at Cabira. From the coins we further learn, that the river at Antioch was called Antihos or Anthos, with ANTIOCH. COL., and the type of a woman reclining. * We can see no reason for supposing Tarsus the "Tarshish" of the Bible. It did not export the kind of produce entrusted to the "ships of Tarshish," while the notices of it in the Ixvi. Bible (Gen. x. 4; i Chron. i. 7; Psalm Ixxiv.; Isaiah 19), ANTIOCH OF PISIDIA. imply a town or territory in the far west, whence, only, some of these products (as tin), so far as we know, were then obtain- Bacchus." Another building, Mr. Arundell thinks, able. Hence we find the Phoenicians sailing thither in "long while the from the number of fluted columns, must have been a ships" (Ezek. xxvii. 12, xxviii. 13; Jerem. x. 9); Roman writers, as Ovid (Met. xiv. 416), Silius Italicus (iii. 399), portico, " or the Temple of Lunus, or of Men Arc^us. Tartessus and Claudian (Epist. iii. v. 14), evidently use the name whose worship was established at Antioch."i Le as synonymous with "West." On the whole, it is most likely rather ' (considered loosely as a district Strabo speaks of the worship of this deity (ie()ofTvvTi tIq that Tartessus in Spain ^tivbg 'ApKaiov) at Antioch in olden times. It seems to have been I* 112 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. II Christianus," enumerated arches are perfect, are the most splendid I ever Quien, in his "Oriens these, Metho- beheld, the stones without cement, of the same massy twenty-six bishops of Antioch. One of the dimensions as the wall." dius, and six other metropolitans subscribed Church against the errors of A little further on he met with undoubted remains- l)rotest of the Eastern found at Antioch of a Temple of Bacchus, with the thyrsus or Bacchic Calvin. Hamilton, subsequently, reading ANTIOCHEAE CAESARE, emblem, and an inscription stating that one Calpurnius. an inscription (i. '* the truth of Arundell's inferences was High Priest for life to the most glorious god which proves p. 474)- CiLiciA had but few towns of much miportance, and these chiefly on the coast or not far inland. Indeed, when we have mentioned Tarsus, Soli, Mallus, and Mopsuestia, we have noticed the principal places in this province. Of these, Tarsus ^ alone calls for any abolished for some time, but to have been revived in Roman days, as coins exist with the god Lunus leaning on a column, and the legend COL. MEN. ANTIOCH, or MENSIS. COL. exist with the name of CAES. ANTIOCH. ; and inscriptions L. Flavins Paulus— who is termed CVRATORI ARCE SANCTVARII. Strabo, a native of Amasia, states that a god called Men Pharnaces was worshipped at Cabira. From the coins we further learn, that the river at Antioch was called Antihos or Anthos, with ANTIOCH. COL., and the type of a woman reclining. ' We can see no reason for supposing Tarsus the "Tarshish" of the Bible. It did not export the kind of produce entrusted to the "ships of Tarshish," while the notices of it in the Ixvi. Bible (Gen. x. 4; i Chron. i. 7; Psalm Ixxiv.; Isaiah 19), AXTIOCH OF PISIDTA. imply a town or territory in the far west, whence, only, some of these products (as tin), so far as we know, were then obtain- Bacchus.'* Another building, Mr. Arundell thinks, able. Hence we find the Phoenicians sailing thither in "long while the from the number of fluted columns, must have been a ships" (Ezek. xxvii. 12, xxviii. 13; Jerem. x. 9); Roman writers, as Ovid (Met. xiv. 416), Silius Italicus (iii. 399), portico, " or the Temple of Lunus, or of Men Arcseus. Tartessus and Claudian (Epist. iii. v. 14), evidently use the name whose worship was established at Antioch."i Le as synonymous with "West." On the whole, it is most likely district rather ' Tartessus in (considered loosely as a Strabo speaks of the worship of this deity ('leontrvvri tic that Spain M rivbg 'ApKaiov) at Antioch in olden times. It seems to have been I 114 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. "5 lengthened description. Of the early history of this and urged with equal truth and justice that he was "free-bom," while city little is known, but a tradition, illustrated by one his judge had only obtained this right " at a great of its coins, asserted that Sardanapalus was buried price." The fact is, its position on the immediate there.^ Its situation, however, led to its becoming confines of Syria and of Mesopotamia was of the highest the capital of Cilicia, a position it long retained. importance to the Roma^s in their conflict with the Tarsus stood on a rich and fertile plain on both sides Parthians and Persians. It still retains its old name, of the river Cydnus. Historically, it is first noticed slightly modified into Tarsous, and is still the chief by Xenophon, as, in his day, a great and wealthy city, city of this part of Karamania. under a Persian satrap named Syennesis, the unwise Tarsus 1 was famous in early days for a remark- able class of ally of Cyrus the Younger. It remained under the coins, known as Satrap-money. Among these are coins of Persian rule till the time of Alexander the Great, who Tiribazus, Phamabazus, Syennesis, and of other rulers, nearly lost his life by imprudently bathing when too between B.C. 410 and B.C. 370. A description of a coin of hot in the Cydnus (Curt. iii. 5; Arrian, ii. 4). In later Phamabazus will show their daysitwas, generally, under the Seleucidse, though, for general character. On the obverse of this silver piece is a brief period, subject to the second and third Ptolemy. a bearded and helmeted head, possibly the Supporting the cause of Csesar, the great Julius him- mythological type of Bellerophon or Perseus, either of which self paid Tarsus a visit, when the Tarsians changed the would be appropriate to the Grseco- Asiatic population of Cilicia, name of their city to Juliopolis. Augustus made it a and the name of Phama- bazus in Phoenician "libera civitas." Hence, St. Paul, her most illustrious letters. On the reverse, is a seated *' representation of son, spoke truly, when he said it was no mean city/' the Jupiter of Tarsus, with the legend, Baal-Tarz, evidently the Zeus Tersios of the than as a town) represents the Biblical Tarshish, and that Greeks, recorded on another coin as AIOS " ships of Tarshish " is a term equivalent with ** Indiamen." TAP2E12N, "Of the Jupiter ^ A fine specimen of this coin (one of Antiochus VIII., king of the Tarsians." The Due de of Sjnia) was in the cabinet of the late General C. R. Fox. Luynes attributed this coin to the famous Phamaba- It was found, in in a leaden box, between Adana and 1848, zus (B.C. 413-374), who, originally Satrap of the N.W. Tarsus, some twenty feet under the surface of the ground. It district of Asia Minor, is memorable for the steady has been engraved by Mr. Vaux, in his " Nineveh and Persepo- resistance he made to the Greeks, while the ruler lis," 4th ed. 1856, p. 62. As its type—the so-called tomb of of Sardanapalus—is found on other coins of Tarsus, as late as the ' Strabo has noted the studious time of Gordian, it is certain this myth maintained its hold on the habits of the Tarsians ; no other city, not even Athens popular mind for a long period. The story of the pageant of and Alexandria, surpassing it in the number and character of its Cleopatra (Plut. Vit. Antonii) shows that the Cydnus must, in ,1 schools. He adds, moreover, that the learned seldom those days, have been navigable up to Tarsus, some eight or remained in the city, but, like St. Paul, mi- grated nine miles from the sea. elsewhere to complete their studies. I 2 ii6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR, 117 Lydia, Tissaphemes, on the other hand, accepted the internecine squabbles of the kings of Cyprus, Lacedaemonian gold. If so, this coin must have Egypt, and Syria with themselves and with the been struck when Phamabazus had given (B.C. 397, 8) Romans, which made it, from time to time, the in- the of command the Persian fleet to the Athenian terest of each party to wink at their worst deeds. Conon, as Tarsus was then the centre of the opera- The Sacred Island of Delos was their chief western tions against Cyprus. Another extremely rare coin entrepot ; the increasing luxury of the Romans at the of Phamabazus, with his in name Greek, was struck at same time giving ample encouragement to their traffic Lampsacus in Mysia, perhaps, for the payment of the in slaves. Greek mercenaries of Artaxerxes. The promontory of Alaya, identified by Captain The towns along the coast of Cilicia have been Beaufort with Coracesium, rises, he says, abruptly very carefully studied by Captain Beaufort, who has " from a low, sandy isthmus which is separated from I! I I identified many of them. The first of these, passing IIIf the mountains by a broad plain ; two of its sides are from W. to E., was Coracesium, a place historically cliffs of great height, and absolutely perpendicular, in- interesting as having been held for a long time by deed the eastern side, on which the town is placed, is Diodotus Tryphon, who, having revolted from Anti- so steep that the houses seem to rest on each other." ochus, set the first example of active defiance to the Other places along this coast eastwards are, Laertes Seleucidae ; Coracesium was, also, the last place where (the birthplace of Diogenes Laertius), iin \u(j>ov fxaa- it the pirates made a united resistance to the forces of Tosihovc, "on a hill, in form like a woman's breast," Pompey.^ The whole story of these freebooters is and Selinus, a river and a town (now Selinty), the very interesting. It is clear that their successes were first of which is mentioned by Strabo, and the second mainly due to two things; first, the peculiar fit- by Livy. Its later name of Trajanopolis it owed to I ness of their ports along the seashore of Cilicia for the sudden death there of the Emperor Trajan (A.D. prolonged resistance, with the high range of Taurus 117), but, at a later period, the old name was revived to fall back on if over-pressed; and, secondly, to in connection with an episcopal church (Hierocles). Beaufort speaks of its magnificent cliffs — "On the • Afuhiaky which Colonel Leake thought the fort of Tarsus, highest point of these," he says, " are the ruins of a like that city, claimed Sardanapalus as its founder. The legend was that Sardanapalus, the son of Anakyndaraxes, erected, in castle which commands the ascent of the hill in every one day, the cities of Anchiale and Tarsus. No one, nowadays, direction, and looks perpendicularly down on the sea." accepts the verses given by Strabo, relating to this Sardanapalus He notices also several other large structures, and, and his deeds, as genuine, and Aristotle says the sentiments in among these, a mausoleum (perhaps that of Trajan), them are fitter for the grave of an ox than for the tomb of a an agora, a theatre, and an aqueduct. The supposed king (Cic. Tusc. Disput. v. 35). An early writer, Amyntas, records what recent research has shown to be probably the mausoleum, 70 feet long and 50 feet wide, is con- truth, viz. that Sardanapalus was buried at Nineveh. structed of large well-cut blocks of stone, and contains — OF ASIA ii8 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS minor. 119 during the settlement of the Christian knights at only one vault. Cyprus, distant sixty-five miles, can took possession of several islands be clearly seen from this headland. Rhodes, they and castles along the shores of Asia Minor. Another place, The next important seaport was Anemurium (now eight or nine miles inland, Selefkeh, the an- Anamur), in the neighbourhood of which Beaufort some cient Seleuceia ad Calycadnum, is also specially discovered a perfect city of tombs. " These tombs," noticed in his History of Armenia, as says he, "are small buildings detached from each by De Jauna given by the king of Armenia to the knights of other and mostly of the same size, though varying for their services. This town, which in their proportions; the roofs are arched, and the Rhodes owed its real or supposed origin to Seleukus Nicator, exterior of the walls is dashed with a composition fi was famous for its schools of literature and philoso- of plaster and small particles of burnt red brick. phy : Athenaeus and Xenarchus, two well-known Peri- j; Each tomb consists of two chambers : the inner one patetics, having been born there. Seleucia was still is subdivided into cells or receptacles for the bodies, in existence in the time of Ammianus, and the eccle- and the outer apanment is supplied with small re- siastical historians, Socrates and Sozomen, speak of cesses and shelves, as if for the purpose of depositing having held here. the funereal offerings, or the urns that contained the Councils been Beaufort reports the existence at Selefkeh of ashes. The castle strongly resembles some of the many ruins on the west side of the river, and, especially, of ancient castles of Great Britain. Its keep or citadel an enormous reservoir lined with hard cement (the is placed on a small rocky eminence, and commands " " " two open courts The extreme dimensions opus Signinuvi " or Coccio pesio of the Roman aqueducts). This structure is feet long by are about 800 feet by 300 feet." 150 75 feet broad feet deep, and could, therefore, Celenderis (now Chelindreh) was noted in ancient and 35 have nearly water. little history as the place which Piso, the enemy of German- held 10,000 tons of A \ further on is a place called Korghoz, possibly, the icus, attempted to take (Tacit. An. xi. 80), and appears, of antiquity, the site of the Corycian also, in the Ecclesiastical annals, as one of the epis- CoRYCUS and -cave, the giant, copal towns of Isauria. As the nearest point of com- in mythology, the fabled abode of Typhosji but, more probably, the crater of an ex- munication with Cyprus, it is still occupied by a small population. There are some remains of a fortress which * Pynd. Pith. i. 31, thus speaks of him and of his home : Tacitus describes as of great strength ; while many arched vaults, sepulchres and sarkophagi may be seen Tv0(ji>e eKarbv KcipavoQ' top ttots KiXiKiov 6pe\l/ev TroXtiw- on the spot. All along this part of the coast of Cilicia vvfiov dyrpov. the presence of the Crusaders is clearly shown in the He is also called, Pyth. viii. 26, names of existing places, as, for instance, in Cavaliere and Provencal Island ; indeed, Vertot records that, Ty^wf Kt'Xt^ tKaToyKpavog. CITIES AND ISLANDS 120 GREEK OF ASIA MINOR. 121 tinct volcano. Strabo says it was a deep and broad Pompey placed there some of the Cilician pirates circular valley, the lower part nigged, but covered whom he had spared ; at the same time changing the with shrubs and evergreens, and, especially, with name of the city to Pompeiopolis. Most of the saffron, which was abundant here. From an in- existing remains are, therefore, Roman. " The first ternal cavity gushed forth a copious stream, which, object," says Beaufort, "which presented itself on for a while lost, after a brief course, reappeared near landing was a beautiful harbour or basin, with parallel the sea, which it joined. This was called the "bitter sides and circular ends ; it is entirely artificial, being water." Beaufort found two places bearing the name formed by surrounding moles or walls fifty feet in of Korgho Kalaler (castles), there being many signs thickness and seven feet in height. Opposite in the neighbourhood of the former existence of a — to the entrance of the harbour a portico rises from the city of considerable size : " mole of great A unhewn surrounding quay, and opens to a double row of two rocks projects at one angle from the fortress about hundred columns which, crossing the town, com- ICO yards across the bay, terminated by a solid municates with the principal gate towards the country \ !l building twenty feet square.''^ Can this be the re- and from the outside of that gate a paved road con- mains of an ancient pharos or lighthouse ? should We tinues, in the same line, to a bridge over a small add that the places, hitherto described, belong to what river Even in its present state of wreck, the ' 'I was usually called Cilicia Tracheia; those w^e shall effect of the whole is so imposing, that the most illi- now notice, belonging, on the other hand, to the plain terate seaman in the ship could not behold it without country. emotion." The actual execution of these columns is, Of these w^e take first, Soli, a colony (Strabo tells however, poor ; and, of the original two hundred, only us) from Lindus, a relationship the Solians did not forty-four are now standing.^ Soli was the birthplace forget during subsequent negotiations with the Ro- of Chrysippus, Philemon, and Aratus. mans. Soli is first mentioned in Xenophon's Ana- Adana, which is noticed first in the Mithradatic basis, and must, in the following seventy years, have War, by Appian, and, subsequently, by Pliny, Pto- rapidly increased, as Alexander the Great fined the lemy, Dio Cassius, Procopius, and the Byzantine people 200 talents for their attachment to the Persian ' It has been said that the term (jo\oiKa\i6q—solcecisvms— empire. After having been destroyed by Tigranes, solecism—meaning ungrammatical speech—was derived from the people of Soli ; but this accusation is not certain (Cf. Strab. xiv. -^schylus, too, gives him the same epithet of "hundred- 671 ; Eustath. ad Dion. Perieg. v. 875 ; Suidas in voce SoXot). headed."—Prom. Vinct. 350. There was another Soli in Cyprus, the inhabitants of which were ' Pomponius Mela (i. 13) gives an even fuller description of usually termed Solii (26\coi), to distinguish them from those on this famous cave, probably from the same original author, che mainland, who were termed SoXcTc. Both, probably, spoke Callisthenes. but indifferent Greek. — — : 122 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 12 repaired historians, like Tarsus, adopted the name of Hadrian. that Justinian the bridge over it (^dif. v. 5). It is still a place of some size, and the capital of During the Byzantine period the name was modi- the Pashalik of the same name. fied to Mensis. Still further up the same river was Near the mouth of the river Pyramiis (now Gihoon), Anazarba (sometimes called Ccesarea ad Anazarbum), and further up, are three towns which may be taken the capital, in the fifth century, of Eastern Cilicia as Tarsus was of the Western together. The first is Mallus, very near the sea, on the —(Hierocles). It left bank of the river over which Alexander threw a was nearly destroyed by earthquakes in the reigns of bridge, in Mallotis, Strabo's name for the circumjacent Justin and Justinian (Procop. Hist. Arcana, c. 18; district; or Megarsus (possibly an earlier name for Cedren., p. 299). Dioskorides and Oppian were born Mallus, described in Lycophon as standing on a there. The last place in Cilicia to which we shall call ^* sea-worn hill "—an expression Beaufort says accu- attention is Issus, ever memorable as the scene of the rately applies to a place now called Karadash?- famous conflict between Alexander and Darius. Its Mallus retained its name, slightly modified to Malo, modern name, Scandaroon or Alexandretta, is ob- viously till mediaeval times (Sanut. Secret. Fid. li. p.iv. c. 26) derived from Alexandria. The town stood 2ndly, above Mallus, Mopsuestia, the creation of a at the foot of the main chain of Mount Amanus, and, certain mythical hero called Mopsus. According to at the head of the gulf to which it gave its name. It Pliny, this town was a "free " city, and Procopius states v/as early (as might have been expected from its po- sition) a considerable town, but, in Strabo's time, had Lycophron's words are ceased to be more than a small port. Cicero, in his nvpa/iou Trpog £Kj3()XaT(j. expedition against the mountaineers in the neighbour- % ^ * * * hood stayed there for some time (Epist. ad Attic. AiTTVQ 0* aXi^puQ oxi^^^ ^^ t^traixfiiv v. 20). The famous defile leading Miyapffof.— (Cassandr.v. 439.) from Cilicia into Syria was to the east of the town. The river Pyramus, according to Scylax, could be ascended by ships as far as Mallus, but the poets feigned that its mud would, in time, join Cyprus to the mainland. The poetical words are 'E(T It has been disputed whether jSIegarsus was really on the river, but the legend on its coins—MErAPSEQN HPOS TQ HYPAMQ til —sets tAzs question at rest. The Aleian plain, which lay be- W tween Tarsus and Mallus, was the traditional scene of Belle- rophon's disaster (II. z. 200). — ASIA MINOR. 125 124 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF n cus." This conquest, however, so to call it, was but temporary, and, not long after, Amyntas of Lycaonia lost his life in an attempt to crush one of their tribes. CHAPTER IV. In later days, one of their chieftains, Trebellianus, claimed for himself the rank of Emperor, and struck Isaura—Iconium—Lystra—Derbe—Apamea Cibotus—^Aezani— boasted, also, of one genuine Synnada—Philomelium—Laodicea Combusta—Hierapolis coins ; and the Isaurians Laodicea ad Lycum—Colossse—Ancyra—Pessinus—Tavium Emperor, Zeno Isauricus. A.D. 474-491. Nazianzus Czesarea ad Argseum Tyana — — — —Comana—Tra- Of its chief town, Isaura, we have coins of the pezus Amastris Sinope — Prusa ad Olympum Nicaea — — — time of Geta and Elagabalus bearing the title of Nicomedia— Islands of Greece — Lesbos — Samas— Chios MHTPOnOAEi22 ISAYPIIN. Mr. Hamilton has sa- Rhodus— Messrs. Biliotti and Saltzmann— Cyprus— Mr. its site on the line of road Lang—General Palma di Cesnola. tisfactorily identified between Iconium and Anemurium—a determination Having now spoken of some of the principal places in agreement with Pliny's statement (v. 27), that the in the west and south of Asia Minor, it will, we think, province of Isauria stretched to the sea in that direc- be convenient to take next those towards its centre, in tion: he adds that the tradition of their ancient Cappadocia, Phrygia^ and Galatia. We must, however, robber propensities is still remembered by the ex- notice, first, the two small districts of Lycaonia and isting peasantry of the district, though, consider- Tsaiiria^ which are really portions cut out of the larger ing what this country has undergone during the adjoining provinces. Isauria will not detain us long, last fifteen hundred years, any such tradition is not as there is little in it that can be called Greek. It worth much. Mr. Hamilton found the ruins of the capi- was, as it has ever been, a wild mountain district, tal on one of the loftiest ridges between the Taurus and with a population unsubdued till about the time of the plains of Konieh (Iconium) at an elevation of quite Constantine ; and, even after that, if the Byzantine 5,000 feet above the sea, the wild and inaccessible writers are worthy of credit, whole armies of Constan- district around it offering, as he observes, "little or tinopolitan Greeks melted as snow in conflict with no temptation to the rapacity of its neighbours." An these robber tribes. Ancient authors knew little of inscription found on the spot fully confirmed his pre- Isauria except its northern part, all to the south, arch, in honour vious surmises : it was on a triumphal with its capital, Isaura, being to them, practi- of the Emperor Hadrian, and, on the ground near it, was cally, a terra incognita. As marauders, however, a marble globe, a common emblem of Imperial power the Isaurians were so troublesome to their neigh- '* I afterwards," says he, " found several other inscrip- % bours, that the Roman Senate sent a considerable If tions in this part of the town ; of these. No. 432, force against them, in B.C. 73, under P. Servilius, lying near the agora, is full of interest, as alluding to whose success won for him the title of "Isauri- f 126 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 127 several buildings formerly erected in its neighbour- amid many small streams, which exhaust themselves in watering its gardens, as the meeting-place of n hood." Strabo had remarked (xii. p. 569) that Amyntas and died before he had completed the town wall, and this several of the most important of the Roman roads Hamilton found to be literally true, ever)rthing around through Asia Minor, made it, from the first, an calls it indicating a to^vn entirely rebuilt, the wall itself, its important entrepot; and, though Strabo !l octagonal towers, temples, and triumphal arches •jToXix^'iov (a little town), the account of Pliny, and being constructed in the same peculiar style. " There the narrative in the Acts of the Apostles, prove it large is," says he, " an air of newness in its very ruins, as if was a and populous place in the middle of the first century its it had been destroyed before it was half built, although A.D. Indeed, in Pliny's time, territory fourteen it must not be forgotten that it flourished for many embraced towns, stretched around centuries after the death of Augustus." the capital (v. 27). Cicero was there for several days In Lycaonia there were few towns of importance^ previously to his Cilician campaign. Iconium ^vill except IcoNiuM, Laodicea, Derbe, and Lystra, the always be invested with much interest owing to St. !''l geological features of the country being unfavourable Paul's visits to it ; the first of which was immediately to the existence of a large population. Travellers after his expulsion from Antioch in Pisidia, when the Apostles " ofl" who have seen both compare Lycaonia with the in- shook the dust of their feet." Messrs. terior of Australia. Both were, by nature, extensive Conybeare and Howson have well remarked, that the sheep-walks (thus, Amyntas had as many as 300 vast plain and the distant mountains are the most inter- esting features of modern Konieh; for these, probably, flocks of sheep) ; while both, alike, had much of arid and salt desert, fitted only for camels. The central remain as they were in the first century of Christianity, plain of Lycaonia, from Kiepert's map, seems the while the town has been repeatedly destroyed and largest in Asia Minor, and resembles the steppes of rebuilt. Little, indeed, remains of Greek or Roman Central Asia and of southern Russia. Ainsworth Iconium, except the inscriptions and fragments of tells how his camels browsed off the tops of the sculptures built into the Turkish walls. Mesembryanthemum and Salicoriiia^ reminding them, Iconium was famous in the early Middle Ages as the as these, doubtless, did, of plains more familiar to capital of the Seljuk Sultans,^ but was taken by the them than those of Asia Minor. ' Strabo made Isauria The Seljuks had first been at Nicaea ; but, when the Cru- part of Lycaonia. saders took that town, in A.D. 1099, they fell back on Iconium, which they held, with the exception of the brief interval of its The principal town of Lycaonia, Iconium, is men- capture by Barbarossa in 1 189, till the irruption of the Mon- tioned first by Xenophon, who considered it the most gols, under Jinghis Khan, and of his grandson, Hulaku, who eastern one of Phrygia, at one day's journey, according broke down their power completely. Konieh has been an integral to Cicero, from Philomelium (Ak-shehr). Its position, part of the Turkish empire ever since the days of Bayazid. ; 128 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 129 Emperor Barbarossa, during the second Crusade, in The position of Lystra and Derbe are still un- his famous but futile attempt to force his way through certain. Of Derbe, we know that it was the residence Asia Minor. To quote the picturesque words of of a robber chief of Lycaonia, named Antipater,^ who " Gibbon, Forty campaigns in Germany and Italy had was ultimately subdued by Amyntas (Strabo, xii. p. taught Barbarossa to command ; and his soldiers, even 569), while Strabo and Stephanus Byzantinus placed the princes of the empire, were accustomed under it on the borders of Isauria towards Cappadocia. his reign to obey. As soon as he had lost sight St. Luke, however, and Hierocles placed it as clearly of Philadelphia and Laodicea, the last cities of the in Lycaonia. If Lystra and Derbe stood in St. Greek frontier, he plunged into the salt and barren Luke's order, Lystra would be the nearest to Iconium desert, a land (says the historian) of horror and tribu- but, though mentioned in Pliny and Ptolemy, we have lation. During twenty days every step of his fainting no further hint as to its actual position. One of its and sickly march was besieged by innumerable hordes bishops was present at the Council of Chalcedon. of Turkmans, whose numbers and fury seemed after The interesting account in the Acts xiv. 6— 21, of the « each defeat to multiply and to inflame. The emperor behaviour of the people of Lystra, when St. Paul continued to struggle and to suffer ; and such was the proved his Divine mission by the cure of the cripple, measure of his calamities, that when he reached the must be fresh in the mind of every one. With re- gates of Iconium no more than i,ooo knights were gard to the speculative identifications of the sites of able to serve on horseback. By a sudden and resolute Lystra and Derbe, it is, perhaps, worth stating that S.E. "I assault he defeated the guards and stormed the of Konieh is a remarkable isolated hill, the Karadagh capital of the sultan, who sued for pardon and peace. or Black mountain. Not far from this mountain, Leake The road was now open, and Frederic advanced in a and Hamilton placed these two towns, the former career of triumph, ' till he was unfortunately drowned Cicero (ad Fam. xiii. 73) says he was treated with much ' in a petty torrent of Cilicia." i Leake points out that civility by the Lycaonian Antipater— a view of things not agree- able to his correspondent its walls, still between two or three miles round, arc Q. Philippus, who had been previously proconsul of Asia Minor. Stephanus Byzantinus states that full of inscriptions and of other ancient remains, Derbe was sometimes called " Delbia," a word in the Lycaonian which the Seljuks seem to have tried to preserve. dialect said to mean "juniper." It is possible that two words of much similarity have been confounded in the MSS., viz. Xt/i/)i/, * There has been much doubt in which " Cilician torrent" a harbour or port, and Xifipij, a lake or marsh ; and that the town Barbarossa was drowned. The name in the record is the was really on the shores of one of the many internal lakes of " Saleph," which may be a corruption of Selefkeh (Seleucia), that part of Asia Minor. The position of Derbe near the lake a name sometimes given to the Calycadnus, as a chief town on of A/: Ghiad, and its resemblance to Delbia, with the modern it. There name of Divleh, seems no reason for drowning him in the Cydnus, or as suggested by Hamilton, tends to its identifi- modem Kara-su. cation with Divleh. I30 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 13^ twenty miles S.E. of Iconium, the latter at some re the chief ones in Phrygia and Galaiia, though we markable ruins around its base, called by the Turks have not space to weigh nicely the limits of each of Bin-bir-kalis-seh, or the i,ooi churches. Mr. Hamilton these districts, which were, indeed, till Roman times, and Mr. Edward Falkener have both examined this in a state of constant change. Rome, as we know, remarkable group of ruined churches, recording, as thought fit to include under the name of Asia more they clearly do, some site peculiarly revered in early than one piece arbitrarily cut out of the older pro- rest of Asia Minor Christian times. Mr. Falkener's remarks on these vinces ; Roman Asia being to the curious monuments are much to the point. "The much what Portugal on maps was to Spain. principal group," says he, "of the Bin-bir-Kalisseh, lies The Phrygians themselves were, like the Mysians, at the foot of Karadagh Perceiving ruins on probably of Thracian origin, as the name Bryges, or I the slope of the mountain, I began to ascend, and, Briges, is found in Macedonia, and is, probably, " in Arto- I on reaching them, perceived that they were churches, connected with the Celtic word briga," as and, looking upwards, descried others yet above me, briga. We find also in the neighbouring province of and climbing from one to the other, I at length gained Bithynia a tribe called Bebryces. The Phrygians have the summit, where I found two churches. On looking also been supposed to have some connection with down, I perceived churches on all sides of the moun- Armenia—a theory, however, mainly resting on their tain scattered about in various positions There legend of a primeval flood, and of the resting of an are about two dozen in tolerable preservation, and ark on the mountains near Celaense. the remains of perhaps forty may be traced alto- It is certain that the people of this part of Asia gether The mountain must have been con- Minor were very much intermixed. Thus, the Tro- sidered sacred; all the ruins are of the Christian epoch, jans and Mysians were almost certainly members of and, •svith the exception of a huge palace, every the great Phrygian race ; for Hecuba was a Phrygian building is a church." It appears from the Acts that, princess, and Hector a common Phrygian name. One besides the Greek, there was still extant a local stream of immigrators may, therefore, have come from Lycaonian dialect, and this is what we should expect Armenia into Europe, and have, thence, returned from what we know in the cases of Caria, Lycia, and somewhat later to Phrygia, the Phrygians, like the fi Phrygia, respectively. There are, however, no certain Macedonians, being said to be unable to pronounce *1 . (i-i means, Berenice, for now, of determining what was its character, and the ^ (ph), and saying Bilippus and whether it was of Semitic or of Indo-European descent. Philippus and Pherenice : in the army, too, of Xerxes, Having dealt pretty fully with the provinces and the Armenians and Phrygians wear similar armour. towns of Asia Minor to the west and south, with some Recent researches by Baron Texier and Mr. Hamil- notice of those in Lycaonia, we propose now to notice ton have shown that the Phrygians had a peculiar K 2 — 132 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 133 Style of architecture, the former having discovered an place, too, he deposited one of the three copies of his entire town carved out of the solid rock. Tombs, quaestor's accounts, at the same time refusing to accept too, occur, in construction resembling the lion gate of for himself or to permit his soldiers to appropriate, any Mycenae ; while there is also a legend of a Phrygian oi the booty taken from the enemy. In a letter -to Pelops in Argolis. Phrygian religious rites were widely " Can. Sallustius, proquaestor, he adds : I shall leave accepted by remote districts of the ancient world, the the money at Laodicea .... in order to avoid the goddess Cybele being strictly a Phrygian deity, and hazard, both to self and the commonwealth, of con- " " the wild orgies of her worship essentially Asiatic. veying it in specie." While governing his province, Of the towns of Phrygia we take first Apamea, as one of his friends requested him to procure some unquestionably one of the most important for its panthers for him. This he did, and at his o\mi ex- varied history and for the many persons of note who pense, remarking at the same time " that the beasts are linked with it. Its foundation is due to Antiochus made sad complaints against him, and resolved to Soter, who named it after his mother Apama. Ac- quit the country, since no snares were laid in his cording to Strabo, it stood at the source of the river province for any other creatures but themselves." ^ Marsyas, which burst forth in the middle of the city, But, besides the classical history of Apamea, and flowed thence into the Maeander ; and, though this which is well enough known, this * place was accre- description is not quite borne out by recent observa- dited with a tradition referring to the Ark, which, tions, the identity of its size with the modem village though purely legendary, cannot be omitted here ; the of Deenare or Denair, has been satisfactorily shown more so as the story of the Ark resting after the Flood by an inscription found by Mr. Arundell, reading on one of the heights near Apamea has been supposed QUI. apameae. negociantvr. h. c. (hoc. curave- by some to have given that city the title of " Cibotus," runt). "The merchants frequenting Apamea have or " Apamea of the Chest." - Indeed, Mount Ararat taken care (to erect this monument). "i Cicero, who ' Mr. Arundell remarks the panthers still was appointed proconsul of CiHcia in B.C. 51, has are {1834) occasion- ally found in the neighbourhood of Smyrna. left us many interesting particulars about it in his - It ought to be added that the ancient name of Apamea, when letters to his friends, as he was much there. At this the capital of Phrygia, was Celrence, and that, in Roman times, ' though Laodicea Arundell (i. p. 192). He remarks further : "Apamea may Combusta was the residence of the proconsul, now be asserted to have been at Deenare with as much confi- it was considered, commercially, inferior only to Ephesus. dence as that Ephesus or Sardis stood on the sites which still Laodicea was one of the towns privileged to strike those curious preserve their names. Apamea stood, we should add, nearly, silver coins known by the name of Cistophori. Though we do though not quite, on the site of the ancient Celaence. It suf- not accept the Ark story as the origin of this name " Kibotus," fered so severely from earthquakes, that the Roman tribute due we cannot say that we attach much, if any, weight to many other derivations that from it was remitted, A.D. 53, for five years (Tacit. Ann. xii. 58). have been proposed. ; iRr 134 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 135 was placed by some on the confines of Phrygia. The events recorded in the Bible must have become coin of Alexander Severus, of which we give a copy popularly known. below, is supposed to refer to this story. On the re- The next place we notice is Azani, or Aezani (for It 1 verse is the name of the people of Apamea, and, above. both spellings occur), the latter, that of the coins of the place, being the more preferable. It is certain that the present Lord Ashburnham, in 1824, was the first to determine where it stood; though this discovery has, with some carelessness, been often attributed wrongly. It is now called Tchandur Hissar, and, from Keppel, Hamilton, and Fellows, appears to possess some ruins of remarkable beauty, and more than one Roman III bridge. Hamilton (i. loi) states that its Ionic temple (of which Fellows and Pullan give drawings) is one of the most perfect in Asia Minor. Rather curiously, no walls have been found ; but the place has suftered from plunderers severely, every tomb having been despoiled. COIN OF APAMEA CIBOTUS. In Phrygia Magna^ as distinguished from Phrygia EpidetuSy a place of early notice and of long import- a square structure resting on a rock, and surrounded ance was Synnada, which we hear of first in connec- by water. In this box are two figures, male and tion with the famous march of Cn. Manlius against i .»i female, and in front the word NOE (Noe). It is, the Gallo-Graeci. Cicero visited it in his progress therefore, a fair presumption that the maker of the towards Cilicia. In Pliny's time, it was the judicial medal did mean to represent Noah and wife. Two centre of the neighbourhood. It was chiefly famous other persons, also a man and a woman, stand in front for a beautiful marble with purple spots and veins, of the to supposed ark. If, as we believe, the Scriptural which Statins alludes (Silv. i. 5, 56). Texier was deluge took the first to discover the actual quarries, which were, place in Babylonia, some features of its n w story i might easily have found their way to Phrygia as the natives of old asserted, not at Synnada, but at while, Docimia ; independently of this, we know that, even in whence the marble itself was sometimes " the days of St. Paul, there were Jewish synagogues called Docimites lapis." Paulus Silentiarius, in a in many of the great towns of Asia Minor. More- poem on the church of St. Sophia, has well described over, during its character. Docimia itself was probably at the end the 150 years between St. Paul and Alexander of the plain where Synnada was itself situate. Hiero- Severus, some, at least, of the more striking. S 136 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 137 cles makes Synnada a bishopric of Phrygia Salutaris. was Laodicea, often called " Combusta," the burnt," Its rums are now called Eski Kara Hissar which is to be carefully distinguished from the other On the main road from Synnada towards Iconium town of the same name we shall presently describe in «"-°^'^""'^'. 'he " city of nightingales," now, connection with Hierapolis, and which is smceT^. fthe generally discovery of the true site of the Pisidian called " ad Lycum," " on the Lycus," in the province Antioch Identified with Ak-shehr." It was a of much place of Lydia. Recent geographers, however, give both value to the early Turkish rulers, and manv these towns to Phrygia. Laodicea Combusta was handsome Saracenic buildings may still be seen'- about nine hours N.W. of Iconium, and under its hence, too, it is often mentioned in the wars between modern names of Yorgan Ladik or the Greek Ladik-el-Tchaus, emperors and the Sultans of Iconium, xs is famous throughout Asia Minor for its m Procop.us manufacture (Hist. Arc. 18) and Anna Comnena of carpets. It has been, popularly, supposed, that it (P- 473k derived its name from the existence at it of Ir But the some most important place in the neighbourhood remarkable volcanic agencies. This, however, Mr. Hamilton has clearly shown, is not the case. " There ' Philomelium, now called Afium Kara Hissar (the "black is not," he says, " a particle of castle of opium"), has much volcanic or igneous interest as the centre of the rock in the neighbourhood ; the hills consist of blue ''"-."'^"^•^-nal propeniesof wT>Si t'LT;:were known to TheophrastusTh" "r marble, and of the in the third century B.C., argillaceous and micaceous schists he nameof under ,.,,^„„.. gcribonius Largus with (.4.D. 40), also knew which that rock is usually associated." He that the best fonn of it was procured from the capsuies and noT thinks it may, at some time or other, frorn the leaves have been burnt of the poppy (Berthold, Argent. 1786 c iiT s. Djoscondes, down, and, on being rebuilt, have received this dis- 2). thirty years later, calls the juice of tee iao' sules M, (Angl. Sap), and tinguishing title. The inscriptions he found there, the cutting them 'o.i^;; He„ce the name, Op,u,n. Pliny (;,. e. though in great abundance, 65, xx. c. 76) points out ,"; have little interest, being med.c,nal use of "Opion," and Celsus calls chiefly funereal the extracted uce : they are all carved out of the dark 0^^'°"^'^' f™- 'his " " ,he '"rr"", Opion comes blue-veined limestone of the adjoining hills. n the ArabicaT' "Afyum," which U found in many Eastern guages, Ian The last three places in Phrygia, which and may have been spread we think it all the more.'owing "o Hu- hammad s necessary to note especially, \ m.erd.ct.on of the use of wine. we shall take together, In I'ndia, S^ „ is noticed, first, m Barbosa's as situate near Travels, A.D. 15,, (ap Hrkluvt one another, and, historically, closely who found it, at that time, in Malabar connected. and'caliZi. X th J These cities are Hierapolis, Laodicea, Chmese nor Sanskrit has a native word for this drug. OptZ (ad Lycum), and CoLOSSiE. TAeiauum,, mentioned as early as A.D. 1288-96: by Simon Hierapolis is chiefly remarkable for waters so '''"'°'"^^- (Clal 'Sanari^nis fcL, '""r,.'° T loaded with petrifying materials as to have completely ' ^^.^""Pf" ('6«7) "-emarks Jimopmm, that compounds of nutmeg,if &c., were largely changed, by their deposits, sold in his time, as long the face of the country before, under the name of " Tkeriaia." in the course of centuries; a result, noticed by \ 138 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 139 many ancient authors, as Vitruvius, Pausanias, &c. that no efficient steps have been taken to excavate ( Chandler states that a cliff near the town is one thoroughly such a site as that of Hierapolis, where entire incrustation, and describes its appearance as- monuments of much historical interest, possibly, too, that of " an immense frozen cascade, the surface of surpassing excellence as sculpture, might reason- wavy, as of water at once fixed, or in its headlong ably be anticipated. Hierapolis is specially noticed in course i suddenly petrified." An excellent view of this Paul's epistle to the Colossians (iv. which curious scene St. 13), is given in Mr. Davis's "Anatolica," shows clearly that, at that time, there were many con- TOO. p. Besides its remarkable petrifying power, verts to Christianity, probably owing to the zeal of Strabo states also that the waters of Hierapolis were Epaphras, who had been long a common labourer famous for dyeing ; and it is curious confirmation of with the Apostle. Somewhat later, Hierapolis appears this statement, that an early English traveller (Dr. in Hierocles as the metropoHs of Phrygia; and Smith, in 167 1) copied an inscription referring to a Arundell gives a list of the bishops of the see "company ^^ of dyers (,} i^y^aia rC^v (^a^sioy). The whose names have been preserved. The present position of Hierapolis must have been very imposing, ruins are called Pambouk Kalessi. placed as it was on a high piece of ground, "200 paces Laodicea " ad Lycum " was, in the time of Strabo, wide, and a mile in length." Abundant ruins still one of the principal places in this province, and the %\ remain, consisting of the relics of three Christian centre of the Roman power in this part of Asia. Many churches, one 300 feet long, and of a gymnasium, con- men of great wealth, it is said, contributed to its sidered by Leake to be one of the only " three which early magnificence; Strabo noticing Hiero, who, be- are in a state of preservation sufiicient to give any sides greatly embellishing it during his lifetime, left useful information on the subject of these buildings," to it by will the sum of 2,000 talents, together with together with a prodigious number of fallen columns the orator Zeno, and his son Polemo, who was made in the wildest state of confusion. It seems a pity by Augustus king of part of Pontus. There are some • Mr. Hamilton says he could difficulties in reconciling the statements of ancient distinctly trace six different cascades, each of which had left a separate incnistation. The authors about the rivers that flowed by or close to ancient city itself was built on a terrace entirely formed by this this town, and even recent investigations have not or similar incrustations. He adds : - But if the appearance of this clear. Four rivers are men- the encrusted made matter quite cliff was curious when seen from below, it became tioned in it the Lycus, Asopus, mfinit..ly more so when we looked connection with — down upon it from the road, and the detail of its Caprus, and the Cadmus. Of these the first is, un- slructure became more apparent. The wav^ and undulating lines of solid matter as having given its which extend over the sur- questionably, the most important, face look as if a large river had been suddenly arrested in its name to the town. It is likely these difficulties have course and converted into stone." been increased by the earthquakes noticed by Strabo, M J 40 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 141 who says that Laodicea, more than any other town Laodicea suggests that there must early have been was subject to their baneful influence. His words abundant converts to the new faith in its neighbour- 1)1 are remarkable (el yc\p r.c iiWrj kuI I, Aaoc/.aa ev^ hood. It is, however, also clear that their allegiance oeiaroc, Strab. p. 578). Such earthquakes would, was not very trustworthy, and that they were much naturally modify the course of these streams.^ Col. inclined to accept a modified form of Christianity. Leake calls especial attention to the importance of a S. Paul's words in his Epistle to the Colossians thorough investigation of — the ruins of all these great (ii. i) show this plainly enough "For I would," says towns : so much is still on the surface, that he thinks he, " that ye knew what great conflict I have for you, there is reasonable t, I hope of the discovery of much and for them at Laodicea, and for as many as have still buried. The same, to a smaller extent, would, not seen my face in the flesh." Again, " When this probably, prove true of other cities in the vale of the epistle is read among you, cause that it be read Maeander; for Strabo thought that Philadelphia, also in the Church of the Laodiceans" (iv. 16). Sardes, and Magnesia ad Sipylum were not less The Book of Revelation contains, also, strong stric- than Laodicea, and had all alike suffered from the tures on the lukewarmness of the Laodiceans. "I ravages of earthquakes ; and this view was completely know thy works, that thou art neither cold nor hot ; supported by Arundell from his o^vn personal obser- I would thou wert cold or hot. So then, because vations at Laodicea (Seven Churches, p. 85). thou art lukewarm, and neither cold nor hot, I will Laodicea suffered severely at the hands of Mithra- spue thee out of my mouth" (Rev. iii. 15, 16). Lao- H dates, but, with the reign of Augustus, its real fame dicea, though sometimes called Ladik, is more usually and prosperity arose tfi. and long continued. About A.D. known as Eski-Hissar, the Turkish form of the 1097 It was seized by the Turks, and subsequently common Levantine title of Palaeo-Castro — " Old il! was, alternately, in their hands or in those of the Byzan- Castle." tine emperors. In 1 190 the Emperor Barbarossa was CoLOSSiE, the last of the three toAvns, has been much welcomed by the then inhabitants with much kind- confused with the other two, from the haste and want ness, but, shortly aftenvards, it was wholly desolated by of accurate observation of different travellers. Much the Turks. The zeal of St. Paul for the Church of time is, indeed, requisite for the comparison of the brief notes of ancient authors with the existing facts. ' Compare what Tacitus says, Annal. ii. 79, xiv. 97, and It is not certain when Colossae was founded, or to Herodotus s statement that the Lycus disappeared at Colossi, what circumstances it owes its name, but it existed Close by, a statement in some degree confirmed by Strabo (xii 578), and other remarks bearing some centuries before the Christian era, as it is men- on the history of this important town m Polyb. v large flourishing town 57, 3 ; Cic. Verr, i. tioned by Herodotus as a and 3 ; Epist. ad Fam. iii. 5» 7; lacjt. Annal. iv. 55 ; Philostr. p. 543. of Phrygia when Xerxes passed through it in B.C 1 142 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 143 an interesting re- 481, on his way from Cappadocia to Sardes (vii. 30); phenomenon. Pliny, too, makes he says, nor had it, apparently, at all decayed when visited by mark as to the quality of this water, where I Cyrus the Younger, about eighty years subsequently, "There is a river at Colossse which will convert adds, " The Ak Sii, (Xen. Anab. i. 2). Like the people of the adjacent brick into stone." Hamilton m Laodicea, the Colossians were great growers of wool. which joins the Choruk in the centre of the town, thick incrustation, It was nearly destroyed in the days of Nero, but it would soon cover a brick with a survived, at all events, as the name of a Christian and even fill the porous interior with the same sub- bishopric, till the time of Hierocles's Synecdenms. stance by means of infiltration." Somewhat later, a new to^vn named Chonas was built The only towns in Galatia we think worthy of any there, the certain identification of its ruins being especial note are Ancyra, Pessinus, and Tavium mainly due to the fact that Nicetas the Annalist was —in fact, Galatia, the land of the Asiatic Gauls, born there. St. Paul, as we know, wrote an epistle to was little more than a dismemberment of the an- the Colossians, but his words, "Since we heard of cient Phrygia, mainly induced by the invasion of a your faith in Christ Jesus," seem to imply that he was portion of the vast horde of Gauls, who, descending never there himself On the other hand, EpaphraS; from Pannonia under the second Brennus, B.C. 279, who was a native of Colossae, and Onesimus, are were, ultimately, induced to cross the Hellespont, on specially noted as having preached there. the invitation of Nicomedes I. of Pergamus. The Colossse has been repeatedly visited by travel- general history of Galatia is so well known, we need principal lers, such as Dr. Smith, Picenini, Pococke, and not dwell on it here. Suffice it, that the three tribes of these invaders were known as the Tectosages, Arundell ; but to Mr. Hamilton we owe the clearest that, after many notice of it, and the reconciling of many points the Tolistoboii, and the Trocmi, and not understood by those who preceded him. He- battles, in which their power was greatly reduced, rodotus, as we have remarked, had stated that they were settled, the first at Ancyra, the second at there was a yaa^a yijg (a deep chasm) at Colossse, Pessinus, and the third at Tavium. Some historical and that the Lycus flowed by a subterranean channel facts connected with them, it may, however, be as for half a mile. This chasm Mr. Hamilton traced, well to mention ; viz., that Antiochus obtained the proving how the Lycus may well have been sa/d to name of Soter from the great defeat he inflicted on have flowed underground, owing to the great accu- them ; and that, beaten by Attains I. and Prusias, mulation of petrifying matter from the stream, now they were most completely subdued by the consul called Ak Su, or "White Water." Mr. Hamilton Manlius in A.D. 189. Gauls are found as mer- quotes, also, a passage from the Byzantine writer, cenaries in all the wars of the times, and, often, Curopalates, clearly referring to the same curious fighting against one another, being even noticed as — m. 144 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 145 such in the Maccabees (i. viii. 2). So late as the though the popular legend of the " cage of Bayazid " fourth century, St. Jerome, who had lived long at is, probably, as little authentic as the burning of the Treves, states that the common tongue of Galatia was library of Alexandria by the orders of Omar. the same as that of that city. Curiously, only one But the most interesting matter, in connection with name, certainly Celtic, Eccobriga, between Tavium Ancyra is the famous Inscription of Augustus ^ (some- 1; and Ancyra, has been preserved in the Itineraries. times called his " Will)," generally known by scholars As a people, they greatly resembled the Gauls Csesar under the title of the " Marmor Ancyranum." What describes—" Natio est omnis Gallorum admodum was then visible of this Inscription was first copied by dedita superstitionibus"; hence, they adopted, at once, Busbequius, about A.D. 1555, and published in 1579, the Phrygian worship of " Cybele as Mater Deorum," at Antwerp, by Andreas Schottus.2 At first, the Latin " —the Galli " of Pessinus being her special priests. portion only was obtained, but, by degrees, portions of Their leading men, however, soon became wealthy, the Greek have been recovered, an important addition and were speedily Hellenized. having been made by Mr. Hamilton.^^ A very com- The most important place in Galatia was Ancyra^ on the Sangarius; traditionally, the foundation of ' The whole town of Ancyra swarms with inscriptions. Mr. ** Hamilton says : The collection Midas, the son of Gordius. The anchor he found of inscriptions made during my stay at Ancyra was very numerous ; many of them never before there, whence the city's name, Pausanias says, was, published. They were met with in all parts of the town,—in still, in his day, preserved in the Temple of Jupiter. the gateways and courtyards of private houses, but, chiefly, on the The territory round this city was formally created a walls of the citadel." (f: ' Roman province by Augustus, B.C. 25, the epithet The original inscription was engraved at Rome on brazen tablets in front of his Mausoleum (Sueton. Aug.), " Tectosagum " being added to its title " Sebaste," to known in Mediaeval times under the name of VAusta. From an inscrip- distinguish it from Pessinus and Tavium, which bore, tion in Boeckh, C. I. Gr. No. 4,039, we learn that the Ancyran also, the epithets of Sebaste or Augusta. On the coins inscription was placed in the "Li^aarriov (Augusteum), and on of Nero, Ancyra is, also, called Metropolis ; and, one of the antae of the Temple are the words though much decayed, is still a considerable place, VaKarStv \t'^ \koivqv\ with a large population.^ In the adjacent plains [it] paffoifiivov ' y occurred the mighty conflict between Bayazid and Kal Ofai 'Ptofiy. Timur (Tamerlane), in which the former lost his crown, This is probably the temple alluded I and was taken prisoner by the Moghul emperor, to in the decree of Augus- \ tus, and referred to by Josephus (Antiq. xvi. 6). * In the Jerusalem and Antonine Itineraries notice ^ we one Too much credit cannot be given to Mr. Hamilton for his name, Ipeto-brogea^ the latter portion of which is probably Celtic, successful labours in copying the greater part of the Greek like i\^Q-brogeSj &c. version, which in many instances supplies defects in the Latin — r islands 146 grep:k cities and OF ASIA 5-1 MINOR. 147 plete account of it has. been recently published by ject to him, and the extension of the Roman arms Theod. Mommsen, under the title " Res gestae Divi to Ethiopia and Arabia ; the submission of Tiridates Augusti," Berl. 1865, with very accurate copies of the and Phraates, the kings of Parthia ; and of Dubno- Greek legend, specially executed for Napoleon III. velaunus, king of the Britons. He concludes by by M. Perrot. saying, " When I wrote this I was in my seventy- It would be impossible to give here even the sixth year," and vtry shortly after this he died.^ briefest summary of this very interesting and valuable The next town of Galatia we notice, Pessinus, inscription, which fully deserves the most careful was situate near the left bank of the Sangarius, on perusal ; but we may mention that, among the his- the road to Angora. It was the capital of the Gallic torical events Augustus records, are his crushing the tribe of the Tolistoboii, and celebrated in antiquity murderers of Julius Caesar, when he was only 21, for its worship of the goddess Rhea, or Cybele. The the titles conferred on him—the census of his people story went that the original shrine of this goddess was the closing of the Temple of Janus—his great — removed to Rome, towards the close of the second largesses to the people, agreeably with the will of Punic war, the safety of Italy being said to depend on Caesar with a remarkable list of the monu- Julius — this step. It is clear that the people of Pessinus did not ^ mental works begun or completed by him in Rome care much about their most sacred shrine—possibly, a notice of the highest value to Roman antiquaries, — however, as King Attains supported the Roman de- and, therefore, very properly given by Mr. Parker mand, they could not help themselves. It is worthy of in his recent volume on the " Forum Romanum." note, that, not long after the removal of this shrine, the He then recounts his crushing the pirates, noticing Galli became the chief priests of the worship of Cybele, also the Servile war ; the effect of the battle of Actium and, as such, went out to propitiate ManHus, when on Italy ; the boundaries of the provinces then sub- about to throw a bridge over the Sangarius (Livy, xxxviii. version. " I entered," says he, "into a negotiation with the 18). Polybius gives the names of these . In priests proprietor of the house . . (abutting on the Temple) (Polyb. Fragm. 4). Coins of Pessinus exhibit I had the satisfaction of finding that he the course of two days the worship of Cybele as late as Caracalla, and we had agreed to my proposal. I had hardly dared to hope that know that Julian the Apostate visited her temple the Mahometan would have allowed a Ghiaour to take down (Ammian. xxii. 9). One name she the wall of his house for such a purpose." bore was that of Agdistis, Pessinus * An interesting work is extant by Julius Frontinus on the itself being seated under this Aqueducts to the city of Rome, which has been remarkably illus- mountain, which was also called Dindymus. M. Texier trated by the recent researches of Mr. H. Parker, C.B., on seems J. to have first recognized its ruins at a place now *' the spot ; see, also, for the Monumentum Ancyranum," J. H. Parker's "Forum Romanum and Via Sacra," PI. xxvii. —ix. ; ^ Mr. PuUan gives a view of the entrance to the Temple. Lond. 8vo, 1876. L 2 I4S GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 149 called Sevrihissar, of which an excellent account is Bavian, and to be seen, also, of some of the coins of given by Mr. Hamilton (i. p. 438). " Every step we Tarsus. The subject appears to be the meeting of advanced," says he, " gave evidence of the importance two kings, the principal figures being five feet high. and magnificence of the public buildings with which Two of the figures stand on a kind of double-headed this site must once have been adorned." We may add eagle. Mr. Hamilton suggested a resemblance be- that Mr. Hamilton's further researches enabled him tween them and those at Persepolis, an appreciation to reconcile the conflicting accounts of the march of the more remarkable that when Mr. Hamilton's work Manlius in Polybius and Livy, the whole of the course was published in 1842, none of the Assyrian excava- of the Roman general being, now, fairly traceable. tions had been begun. Considering the great in- The last of these Galatian towns, Tavium, was the fluence of the Persians after the establishment of the abode of the third Gallic tribe, the Trocmi, as is shown empire of Darius, the son of Hystaspes, there is no byan inscription on a coin, reading TAOYlANftN TPO. improbability in the carving being the work of some The position of this town has been identified by powerful satrap, like Phamabazus, who might easily Mr. Hamilton as that where M. Texier found some have been familiar with the sculptures at Bavian, very remarkable sculptures, which he, erroneously, Behistan, and Persepolis. called Pterium, the site of one of the battles be- Over the towns in the remaining provinces of Asia tween Croesus and Cyrus. It is more probable that Minor, Cappadocia, Poftitis, Faphlagonia, and Bithy- this place was much nearer the shores of the Black nitty it will not be necessary for us to linger at any Sea. If Hamilton is right, Boghaz-kieui marks the length ; not because there are not abundant objects site of the old town, which was one of great trade, of interest in each of them, but that the remains, and famous for a colossal bronze statue and temple purely Greek, are comparatively few, while the space of Jupiter. The careful measurement of the seven we can give for an adequate description of them is great roads, recorded as having met at Tavium, exceedingly limited. We shall, however, notice some agrees, too, with his view. The bas-reliefs discovered of the chief places, either of Greek origin, or directly by M. Texier, about two miles from this temple, are connected with the Greeks, referring to the journals among the most curious in Asia Minor. Mr. Hamil- of the travellers we have so often quoted ; and espe- II. ton gives a view of them (vol. i. p. 394), whence we cially to Mr. Hamilton, for a more full and detailed are inclined to think that they must be of Persian account of them. origin. So far as we can judge from the engraving, To take first Cappadocia, which is in this sense the work resembles much that at Behistan ; moreover, peculiar, that it was for centuries governed, first by two of the figures seem to be standing on lions or satraps claiming descent from one of the seven panthers, as on the reliefs found by Mr. Layard at conspirators who aided Darius, and, secondly, by a 15^ GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. ^51 native race of kings, till it became a Roman province. events of the history of the town was, its long and The great plains of Cappadocia, at an altitude seldom gallant resistance to the Sassanian emperor, in the less than 4,000 feet above the sea, were famous for war between Valerian and Sapor. In Christian times, the breed of horses they raised ; corn, too, and many it derived much fame from the fact that St. Basil was excellent fruits found in this province their native bom there, and was, subsequently, for many years its home. Salt, and various kinds of crystal, were also bishop (Socrat. H. E. v. 8; Hierocl. p. 698). Mr. largely exported from Cappadocia. Hamilton (ii. pp. 274-281) gives an interesting ac- Of the towns of Cappadocia, we may mention count of his ascent of the great mountain near it [the Nazianzus, a site celebrated as the birth-place of its height of which he found to be about 13,000 feet], a famous bishop, Gregory, a great ecclesiastical ^vriter, feat, we believe, he was the first to accomplish. a wit and a poet (see his humorous description of Tyana, another Cappadocian town, is chiefly noted Sasina, the church to which he was first appointed, as the birthplace of ApoUonius of Tyana, whose Orat. XXV. p. 435, which we wish we had space to amusing life has been preserved by Philostratus. quote). Its ancient position has been accurately de- From its position on the defiles leading through termined by the observations of more than one modern Taurus into Cilicia, it must have been a place of traveller (Hamilton, ii. p. 228). Mazaca, afterwards some importance ; and hence, probably, the tradition called CiESAREA ad Argcetwi, was for many centuries that it was built by Semiramis (Strab. xii. 537). In the capital of Cappadocia, and is still a place of later times it was the seat of a Christian bishopric some importance. The chief feature of its scenery (Greg. Naz. Epist. 33). Hamilton thinks that a place was the Mons Argaeus (now Erjish Dagh), reputed called Iftyan Kas may mark this site. There is near % the loftiest mountain of Asia Minor, which rises im- to it the remains of a fine aqueduct, ascribed by the mediately above it, covered with perpetual snow. The natives to Nimrod, but, really, of Roman origin. town itself, though ultimately the capital, appears CoMANA, the only other place in Cappadocia, which to have been for a long time little more than a it is necessary to notice, was really the chief town of camp j indeed, Horace's description probably tells us a subdistrict called Cataonia. It was chiefly cele- all that "His Majesty" of Cappadocia really re- brated for its collection of priests, soothsayers, and " quired : Mancipiis locuples, eget aeris Cappadocum the like, who were devoted to the worship of Ma (the rex" ("Though rich in slaves, the king of Cappa- Moon), or, as some say, the Cappadocian Bellona. docia lacks ready money"), (Ep. i. 6, 39). Cappadocian Strabo asserts that the votaries of this sacred institu- slaves were abundant in Rome, and had a high re- tion amounted to as many as 6,000 persons, of both putation as bakers and confectioners (Plut. LuculL sexes (xii. 535). Some, on the other hand, think this Athen. L 20, &c.). One of the most memorable goddess the Anaitis of the Persians, the Agdistis or 152 CREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 15^ Cybele of the Phrj^gians. Coins of Comana, of Anto- the town of Zela, that Caesar defeated the troops of ninus Pius, show that there was a Roman colony there^ the despicable traitor Phamaces so quickly, that he which was in existence as late as Caracalla. announced his victory in the famous words, " Veni, Vidi, Vici (" I Pontus^ a narrow slip along the shores of the " came, I saw, I conquered ") (Hist. Bell. Alex. c. Plut. Black Sea, was chiefly memorable for its great fer- 72 ; Vit. Caes. ; Sueton. Caes. c. 37). tility in the fruits now so common in our western The history of Pontus is closely interwoven with that lands, as cherries (perhaps so named from one of of the famous Mithradates ; but, into this, we have its towns, Cerasus), peaches, almonds, &c. It was not the space to enter here. also very rich in grain, timber, honey, and wax; Paphlagonia is chiefly famous for the vast forests- while its mineral wealth is strikingly shown by the that clothed the southern and more hilly portions of fact that one of its tribes, the Chalybes, famous so its territory, and for its vast herds of horses, mules,. early as the time of Xenophon for their skill ii> &c. (the former of which are noticed so early as working iron, gave their name to the Greek word for Homer (II. ii. 281 and 852). Its only two towns of hardened iron or steel.^ Trapezus (now Trebi- any note were Amastris, in the days of Pliny the sonde), its only considerable town, was in ancient Younger a handsome place, with squares and many days believed to be a colony of Sinope, the foun- public buildings,—and Sinope; both towns, certainly,, dress of several other places along the coasts of of remote antiquity, the latter, indeed, attributed by the Black Sea. It was evidently a city of note some to the Argonauts, and by others to the Amazons. when Xenophon came there, in B.C. 400, with the In the days of Xenophon, Sinope was a rich and remains of the Ten flourishing city ; and then, and for a long time, subse- Thousand, as its citizens hos- rr pitably entertained the Greek host under his com- quently, the navy of Sinope was highly distinguished mand. We find it, also, in much prosperity when among those of the other maritime cities of Greece. Arrian was governor of Pontus, under Hadrian. Sinope was also famous, like Byzantium, for the fishery In later days, Trapezus was the capital of a petty of \S\^pelamys or tunny-fish ; deriving, also, much empire under a branch of the princely house of the of its subsequent wealth from the fact, that it was Comneni, its rulers assuming the pompous title of selected by the kings of Pontus as their royal resi- Emperors of Trebizonde, and claiming, though not dence. Lucullus first, and Caesar, subsequently, in always securing, independence of the Greek Em- the wars with Mithradates and Phamaces, respectively,, pire. It is still a place of commercial importance. treated the people with much kindness, and left to AVe may add that it was not far from this place, near them most of the works of sculpture with which their to^^^l had been embellished by the Pontic monarchs. ^schylus, Pers., v. 715, speaks of < TtdtiporeKTOf \V^IQ, Sinope is mentioned as a flourishing place in the^ fI ^54 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 155 times of Strabo, Trajan, and Arrian, nor did it decay, less, be fresh in the memory of many of our readers as till every other place, in like manner and for the same the long home of the gallant Abd-el-Kader, and of reasons, decayed on the advent of the barbarians more than one of the Hungarian leaders whom the from Central Asia, under the hoofs of whose horses, treachery of Georgey compelled to abandon their na as the proverb says, no grass ever grows again. tive country. The grand Olympus which overhangs Bithynia, the last province of Asia Minor to which Broussa was generally termed the Mysian, to distin- we shall have to call attention, was, as we have guish it from the Olympus of Thessaly. Near it was remarked before in the case of Mysia, in its popula- the town of Hadriani (now Edrenos), the coins of tion, largely of Thracian origin. Subsequently to Cyrus which bear the inscription AAPIANE12N DPOO the younger, it was ruled by a series of native kings, OAYMniON. after his wife Lysimachus, was the last of whom, Nicomedes 11. , bequeathed his NiCiEA, SO named by country to the Romans. Many of these rulers were the real capital of Bithynia, and, for a long time, of Western Asia. men of tried valour ; thus one defeated a general of one of the most important towns un- Alexander the Great ; and another crushed the in- Pliny the Younger, as governor of the province, vading Gauls. Pliny the Younger, in his letters, gives dertook to restore it, and, during the later Byzantine an interesting account of the spread of Christianity period it was constantly taken and retaken by the in this province, at the same time showing that his Greeks and Turks, respectively. Leake and other stern and hardy master, Trajan, was less inclined to travellers show that there are abundant remains of act severely against them than his literary and philo- this famous old town, now called Isnik ; not that, un- sophic lieutenant. The to^vns of Bithynia to which der the Turks, it is, or ever could have become, a great we propose to call attention, are Prusa, Nic^ea, and city. In Ecclesiastical story, Nicaea will ever be me- NlCOM EDIA. morable as the site where assembled, in A.D. 325, Prusa, generally distinguished by the epithet ad the grand body of bishops, so well known as the heresy. Olympum, more clearly to mark its site, is said to have Council of Nice, to condemn the Arian Our is to to it its most valu- been built by Hannibal (Plin. v. 2), but was, probably, own Church believed owe " " much older, though Chrysostom, a native of the town, able Nicene Creed. Coins of Nicaea abound even does late Gallienus. not claim for it any high antiquity (Orat. xliii. as as the time of p. 585). It continued to flourish under the Roman NicoMEDEiA, as the name implies, the chief resi- the of Nicome- Empire (Plin. Epist. x. 35), and was, also, for a while, dence of the Bithynian kings of name a leading place des, was a large and flourishing city, and, as may be under the Greek Empire ; indeed, it is still, Trajan, long con- under the modified name of Broussa, one of the gathered from the letters of Pliny to chief cities ; in later times, when occupied with of Turkish Anatolia. Its name will, doubt- tinued so indeed, 156 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 157 the Parthian or other Eastern wars, it was a conveni- the mainland opposite. Lesbos displayed a personal ent and constant residence for the Roman emperors love for freedom, which contrasted well wth their (Niceph. for Callist. vii.). We have a curious account of kinsmen on the continent ; for, though crushed, a the ruin per- done to this city by an earthquake in one while, by Polycrates of Samos, and submitting, of the strange orations of Juhan's friend, the orator haps, wisely, to Harpagus, the general of Cyrus, the Libanius, the entitled fiovwl'ia iir\ ^iKOfirjdeioi, in which he Lesbians were among the most active seconders of mourns the loss of its public baths, temples, gynmasia, revolt of Aristagoras, suffering severely in the end, as &c.: some of these were, however, subsequently did Chios and Tenedos, when the Persians won the day. restored by Justinian (Procop. ^dif v. i). The his- So, too, at Salamis, they stoutly supported the Greek torian Arrian was bom here, and Constantine the cause. Their subsequent history was that of most of Great died at his villa Ancyron, hard by. the islands in the ^gaean. Sometimes they were for, Having said so much on the subject of the leading perhaps more often against, Athens; paying often Greek cities and being, of Asia Minor, or rather of some of dearly enough for their love of freedom ; them, we shall notice, but as briefly as possible, the in the end, chiefly under Athens, which, while strenu- principal islands so-called sacred cause of freedom, adjacent to its shores ; and as the ously advocating the space at our disposal compels us to contract our took good care to divide their lands among her own narrative within the closest limits, we shall refer only citizens. In later days, they struggled against Roman to Zeslfos, Samos, Chios, Rhodiis, and Cyprus. Crete, aggrandisement, but, of course, in vain. The Ro- as a matter of fact, is generally attached, geographi- mans, however, do not seem to have treated the island cally, to the continent of Greece, but, in any case, with severity, and, as late as Commodus, we have would require a volume to itself that adequate justice a coin reading KOINON AeaPltay, which implies some should inci- be done to its ancient and modem story. amount of self-government. We may mention, Lesbos, which lay off the coast of Mysia, indeed, dentally, that, at Lesbos, Julius Caesar received a civic about seven (Livy, Epit. miles from Assos, was celebrated in ancient crown for saving the life of a soldier 87 ; times for its high cultivation of poetry and music, and Sueton. c. 2); that, in A.D. 802, Irene, the Byzantine for the many life ; and, that four men of literary eminence it produced. empress, here ended her strange To Lesbos we owe Terpander and Arion of Methymna, centuries later, John Palseologus gave Lesbos, as her Alcasus, and Sappho; and Pittacus, Theophrastus, dowry, to his sister, when about to marry Francis and till Cratippus were also bom there. More than one Gateluzio, in whose hands the island remained passage in Homer, the Turks. and especially II. xx. 544, and overwhelmed by Odyss. iv. 342, show that many of the towns in the Samos, a name said to mean highland, and, doubt- island had large populations, even in. remote times, less, deserving this name for its far superior height to and owned, different also, a considerable extent of territory on the islands adjacent, bore, like Lesbos, many ! 158 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 159* names in antiquity, with a population much intermixed^ was the second in the afiections of Juno, and, in the result of successive colonies of Carians, Leleges, Strabo's time, in spite of the plunder it had suffered and lonians. To the last people it chiefly owed in the Mithradatic war, and, subsequently, by Verres, its historic fame, having been, in very early times, an her temple was a complete picture-gallery. Here too, active member of the Ionian confederacy. As islanders, as so often elsewhere, a Sacred Way led from the the Samians had much credit for their skill in boat- temple to the city. Samos was also famous for an " art, in building; indeed, Thucydides (i. 13) goes so far as to earthenware of a red lustrous" character. Her say they were the first boatbuilders, a statement, evi- this respect, was copied by the Romans, their common dently, to be accepted with a good deal of allowance. red ware being popularly called " Samian." Of this It seems, however, certain that a citizen of Samos, one most Museums have abundant and excellent speci- Caelius, was the first to reach the Atlantic by passing mens (Marryat, "Pottery and Porcelain," 1850). through the Pillars of Hercules, and that Polycrates, Chios, now Scio, in ancient days known by the the friend of Anacreon, did much to increase the naval name Pityusa, referring doubtless to its abundant pine- fame of his island. forests, was nearly as close to the mainland of Asia After ha\ang made treaties with Amasis of Egypt, Minor as Lesbos, and, in size, rather more than twice and Cambyses of Persia (which alone show the emi- that of the Isle of Wight. It was in character pecu- nence ascribed to Samos at this early period), we liarly rugged, its epithet in Homer [of whom it claimed " know further, that, from Samos, as his head quarters, to be the birthplace], of Trunrakoiaaa (the craggy"), Datis sailed for Marathon, the inference being that being literally true. In ancient and in modern times in the Samos at that time was less Greek than perhaps, it it has been famed for the beauty of its women ; of its wines. In an ought to have been ; hence too, perhaps, somewhat former, also, for the excellence the temple later, the severe punishment inflicted on it by Peri- oval place, not far from its chief town, stood cles and Sophocles. From the commencement of the of Cybele, whose worship the Chiotes especially af- fit properly, the care- Roman wars in the East, Samos seems, generally, to fected ; and, that all things might have sided with Rome, becoming, ultimately, part of less Pococke seeing there her headless statue, which he the province of "Asia." Hence, too, probably the describes as that of Homer, with equal judgment con- fact that Augustus (or rather as he then was, Octavi- verted the lions between which she is sitting into Muses anus) spent his ^vinter there after the battle of Actium. Its present chief town is said, in situation, to resemble Samos was, in early times, greatly devoted to the Genoa in miniature. Traditionally, its oldest people writer, with better worship of Juno, and Herodotus states that her temple were the Pelasgi ; but Ion, a native there was the largest he had seen. It was, however, reason, traces them to Crete. Chios was little injured never completely finished. According to Virgil, Samos by the first Persian conquest, as the Persians, then like ; i6o CITIES GREEK AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 161 Timilr, eighteen hundred years later, had no fleet ; but Rhodus, an island about ten miles from the south- it was thoroughly sacked and plundered, subsequently, M'est end of Lycia, next claims our attention, as one for the crime of having sent one hundred ships to fight of the most important of the Greek settlements of anti- off Miletus in aid of the lonians (Herod, vi. 8, 32). quity, and as retaining still something of its ancient During the Peloponnesian war, Chios at first sup- splendour. In remote ages as the adopted abode ported the Athenians, but was aftenvards ravaged of the Telchines, a celebrated brotherhood of artists, ' I! by them, though they failed to take its capital. probably of Phoenician origin, Rhodes soon became So, in the Mithradatic war, though at first supporting famous for its cultivation of the arts, so imported, lead- the king of Pontus, Chios fell under his displeasure, ing, as these did, naturally, to a civilization much in that it had allowed " " Roman negotiatores to fre- in advance of the people around them. Its early quent and settle in its ports, and had to pay 2,000 history abounds with many legendary tales, which we talents, and to suffer still rougher treatment at the regret we cannot insert here (but see Pindar 01. vii. Jiands of his general, Zenobius. In modern times, Scio Hom. II. ii. 653). The Rhodians, no doubt from their has suffered more perhaps than any other Greek island. early connections with the Phoenicians, were among the Early in the fourteenth century, the Turks secured greatest navigators of antiquity, and this, too, earlier possession of it by a general massacre in ; 1346, it was than B.C. 776, when the Olympian games are said to taken from them by the Genoese, who held it for nearly have been instituted : hence the foundation by them two centuries and a half, till it was recaptured the by of very remote colonies in Sicily, Italy, and Spain ; in Turks. In 1 82 2, having been foolishly over-persuaded the latter country, especially Rosas, which, remarkably though then a comparatively — flourishing island—to enough, retains its ancient name, but slightly modified. Join in the revolt of the Greeks against the Turks, a The Rhodian code of naval laws became too, as is powerful Ottoman fleet attacked it, who, landing, mas- well known, not only the law of the Mediterranean, sacred right and left, enslaved its women and children, but the basis of the law of much more modern timesw and made, as is their wont, a well-cultivated district a The people of this island did not, perhaps, for pru- desert, destroying, too, by fire and sword a town with dential reasons, join in the Ionian revolt or in the thirty thousand inhabitants. No doubt fifty-four years Persian war. is a very long time in the eyes of mere politicians; In the Peloponnesian war, too, they did not take an but historians might have been expected to remember active part, though serving (according to Thucydides), "Scio," and to have anticipated similar results at with reluctance, on the side of Athens, against the " Batak," or wherever else these barbarians are able people of Syracuse and Gela. In those days they to repeat the habits and practices of their fore- were chiefly valued as light troops, especially, as darters fathers. and slingers. In the cause of Daiius Codomannus M If 162 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASU MINOR. 163 against Alexander, the Rhodians supported Memnon, houses of the adjacent village of Kalaverda. Some the ablest admiral of the day, whose death, perhaps of the pinakes or platters, with geometrical patterns more than that of any other individual person, hast- painted in brown on a pale ground, resembled the ened the downfall of the Persian monarchy ; and oldest objects of this class from the tombs of Athens somewhat subsequently, their resistance to Demetrius and Melos ; the sites, too, of Mycenae and Tiryns Poliorcetes, in the memorable siege they underwent, are also strewn with similar fragments. ^ Other am- secured them the highest credit, and the admiration phorae and oinochoae, with black figures on a red of their conqueror. Indeed, they were in such esteem ground, or red figures on a black, were also met with.2 among their neighbours, that (so Polybius states) when Shortly after this, a firman was obtained from Con- their city had been almost destroyed by an earth- stantinople, empowering Messrs. Biliotti and Salzmann quake, the rulers of Sicily, Asia Minor, Syria, and to make a thorough investigation into this ancient Egypt vied with each other m the liberality of the site, the result of which has been the opening of at supplies and presents they sent to repair this calamity. least 275 tombs. From these tombs many precious To the Romans their services were of the highest works of art in gold, bronze, and glass, with figures in value, indeed, it was mainly due to them, that the terra-cotta, and calcareous stones, together with vases naval operations of Livius, the Roman admiral, were and alabaster jars, have been procured, some of them successful in the wars against Philip and Antiochus probably as old as B.C. 650. The whole may be (Liv. xxxi. ; xxxvii. &c.). 14 9, grouped under the heads : (i) Asiatico-Phoenician, n , But, perhaps, the most interesting matter in connec- or x\rchaic Greek ; (2) Greek of the best and latest tion with the island of Rhodes is the history of the Egyptian, periods ; (3) or imitations of Egyptian. researches recently conducted there by Messrs. Biliotti The first is the most important, as comprehending and Salzmann on the site of Camirus, one of the three most of the gold and silver ornaments, with a few chief original cities of that island, the combining of terra-cottas. It has been supposed that the makers which together, about B.C. 408, resulted in the crea- of these objects Phoenicians were of Tyre and Sidon ; tion of the capital city, Rhodes. It was natural, there- but, as many of the specimens betray a marked fore, to expect that any antiquities discovered at these Assyrian character and influence, they are more places would be earlier than this date. The ground all probably copies, at second hand, of works originally round is now covered by a pine forest, in the clearing Assyrian. of which the old necropolis was discovered a by On examining these curious works of art, it will be bullock falling into a tomb. In 1853, Mr. Newton observed that most of those in gold have been used obtained many terra-cotta vases of a vtry archaic ' As has been well shown in Dr. Scliemann's recent type, and other fictile vases from the peasants' researches. 2 Travels in the Levant, i, p. 235. M 2 ; 164 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. '6s attachment to other sub- either as necklaces or for sculptures. In some cases, we find bronze plated with consisting, as they do, for stances, probably leather, gold, the latter having often been forced asunder by pieces or plaques of metal, the most part, of thin the rust and consequent expansion of the bronze. to two and a half inches in averaging from one Besides these objects, were found, also, small glass them worked up, as a rule, length, with subjects on vessels of a rich purple colour with yellow bands, like after the fashion now called repoussee from behind, those from Caere and other of the oldest cities of we meet with standing female figures, work. Thus Italy, and a coffin, 6 feet 4 inches long, and 2 feet to the feet (which are close together), as draped I inch wide, made entirely of terra-cotta. There are the sculptures from Branchidse, with long and on traces of brown and red paint over the whole of it, hair falling on their shoulders and elaborately-dressed and, at one end, lions in red, nith floral ornaments, the arms being raised in a stiff and naked breasts, and, at the other, a black bull between two brown and the hands partially closed. An- formal manner, lions. Many large terra-cotta plates were also found, other figure has large wings, almost like a nimbus, with various subjects ; such as the combat between elbows square; and against the hands crossed, and Hector and Menelaus over the body of Euphorbus, rudely-executed animal. third body of this figure, a A with the names of the combatants written over them, a small lion by the tail, just as on holds in each hand a drawing of especial interest, from the archaic type some of the sculptures from Khorsabad. On a fourth of the superinscribed characters : there were, too, held, but are springing up against the lions are not a Gorgon's head, sirens, and other strange animals, the figure. and a sphinx and a bull with his horns drawn in plaque we have nearly the same type, On another perspective. These plates were probably of local the lions stand out in very with this distinction, that manufacture. But, besides these curious antique curiously enough, are in style almost high relief, and, monuments, the excavations at Camirus brought with those on obtained from Cervetri identical ^fibula to light many objects of very fine work, two of which Blayds. Many instances may be seen by the late Mr. must be mentioned. One, a small gold vessel of the iiarsin<:^h, or man-lion type a compound figure, of — exceeding beauty, about an inch in diameter, at one with the head, body, and legs of a man, but attached end of which is a seated Eros or Cupid ; on the and, as it were, growing out of to or behind this body, other, Thetis on a dolphin, with the arrows Vulcan animal with hoofs. This monstrous it, the body of an had forged for her son Achilles. The other, a magni- also, on a vase from Athens and on As- form occurs, ficent amphora, with figures in red on a black ground, also, specimens of winged, S}Tian cylinders. There are, the subject being " the surprise of Thetis by Peleus " lions, their wings being thrown back so man-headed in fact, the same as that on one side of the Portland cover the whole figure, just as on the Assyrian as to vase ; thus confirming, in a most unexpected manner, OF ASIA MINOR. 167 1 66 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS which happened for the time to be the most power- the interpretation originally proposed many years ago ful. Thus it was, usually, in the hands of the Per- by Mr. Millingen. This vase is of the time of Alex- sians, till the overthrow of that power by Alex- ander the Great, and few, if any vases have as yet ander, when it was secured by the Ptolemies, in been found in the Archipelago exhibiting such free whose diadem it was the most precious jewel. In and masterly drawing as this one from Camirus. the end it was, of course, seized by the Romans, be- The island of Cyprus, which lay off the southern coming first an Imperial province, and then, by the coast of Asia Minor, was one of the most celebrated arrangement of Augustus, directly under the Senate. of those generally called the Greek Islands, though In later times, it was the seat of a bishopric, one of it had, probably, less claim to this designation, and the most famous of the bishops of Paphos being the was more Oriental than any of the others. It was, celebrated Epiphanius. During the Crusades, Richard as was natural from its position, early settled the by Coeur de Lion captured the island and gave it to Guy Phoenicians, Herodotus speaking of the inhabitants de Lusignan, king of Jerusalem, whence the title of as a very mixed race. It is not possible to deter- kings of Cyprus and Jerusalem, adopted, till recent mine which of several of its towns was the most times, by some of the monarchs of Western Europe. ancient but, in the early ; Jewish Scriptures, we read In recent times, the Island of Cyprus has proved of " ships of Chittim," probably those it* of Citium, one one of the most abundant sources of precious re- of its chief towns. In later days, Paphos, itself of mains of antiquity, excavated chiefly by Mr. R. H. remote antiquity, became the capital of the island, Lang and General Palma di Cesnola. The former and the residence, as learn we from the Acts of the gentleman has published in the Numismatic Chronicle Apostles, of the Roman proconsul. As the centre of (vol. xi. New Series, 1870), an account of the silver the worship of Venus, which is noticed so early as coins, many of native Cypriote manufacture, he Homer, as well as by many later writers, Paphos was lighted on while digging out an ancient temple at greatly visited by strangers, among whom Tacitus Dali (Idalium), in 1869. The coins were found at mentions, particularly, the Emperor Titus, when on two several times, and, from the way in which some his way to besiege Jerusalem (Hist. ii. 3—4). Her of them adhered together, had probably been en- symbol, or idol, was a purely Asiatic type, and con- closed in a bag, though no traces of it were detected. sisted merely of an upright, conical, and unsculp- Mr. Lang believed he could trace from them the tured stone. The history of the island was a very existence of the six or seven distinct kingdoms, which chequered one, and there were but comparatively we know, from other sources, once existed in this short intervals of time when it was really under its island. The earliest of these coins are, perhaps, as o^\^l native rulers; more frequently it was held old as the middle of the sixth century B.C. by one or other of the continental empires near it 1 68 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 169 The most important results of Mr. Lang's excava- and Mr. G. Smith to settle many important points tions in this temple are now in the British Museum, in connection with the Cyprian alphabet. and have been described by him in a paper read Nearly about the same time as Mr. Lang, General before the Royal Society of Literature (see Trans- di Cesnola, the American consul in Cyprus, was actions, New Series, vol. xi. pt. i. 1875). In this commencing a series of excavations, the latest results memoir, which has been supplemented with some of which have, in some respects, far surpassed any- careful observations by Mr. R. S. Poole, Mr. Lang thing Mr. Lang achieved. M. Cesnola began dig- has given many interesting details of his excavations. ging, we believe, first about 1867 ; but his first His first diggings were in 1868, when his men soon important discoveries were in the spring of 1870, " came upon (as it were) a mine of statues," several when he found at Golgos the remains of two temples of them being of colossal proportions, and on two large of Venus, nearly on the spot where, some time before, troughs, in an outer court, perhaps once employed for the Count de Vogiie had been less fortunate. It was the ablutions connected with the temple, which was here that M. di Cesnola formed his first collection, completely " full of the heads of small statues, which, now for the most part in the museum of New York. after being broken from their bodies, had been As in the case of Mr. Lang, the statues had all pitched pell-mell into the troughs." Near these troughs been thrown down and grievously defaced by " icono- were three rows of statues ; some, too, of the cham- clastic " hands. Among them, however, were many bers excavated were also full of statuary—and in a which had been simply hurled from their pedestals, stratum of charcoal were comminuted fragments of and were, therefore, nearly as fresh as when first made. the bones and teeth of several animals ; as of bullocks, One great interest in the collection is, that it is sheep, camels, and swine. can We only add, here, almost wholly the product of local artists. Naturally that the treatment of the beard on some of the heads there was in it a large number of statuettes of Venus, is remarkably Assyrian ; which, indeed, might reason- of vases, of lamps, and of objects in glass ; the latter, ably have been expected, as the island was long we believe, chiefly from Idalium. It is said that subject to that empire,— and, that, besides coins and altogether there were nearly 10,000 objects, and that sculptures, Mr. Lang procured, also, several Phoeni- New York secured them for about ;^i apiece. We cian inscriptions, not, however, of very early date, cannot discuss here the question, much mooted at the their characters being nearly identical with those on time, whether or not the collection ought to have been the well-kno^vn inscription in the Bodleian Library bought by the English Government ; but, had it been, at Oxford, together with one bilingual inscription in we do not know where it could have been adequately Cypriote and Phoenician writing. The last has proved exhibited. The British Museum seems to be as full of great value, in that it enabled the late Dr. Brandis as ever ; nor is there any apparent hope of the re- I70 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 171 moval of the hideous black sheds between the venture to think that General di Cesnola's idea on the columns in the front of it, which have now, for these subject is probably the true one,—that it represents twenty years, defaced any architectural beauty it may the offerings in a temple now destroyed, and hurriedly be supposed to have. packed away, possibly when it was attacked by But by far the most remarkable* of General di Ces- iconoclasts. Some of the bijoux are inscribed with nola's discoveries are his most recent ones, the great the names of the owners, and probably donors. Like results of which are now, we believe, on their way to the relics from Cameirus, these Cypriote monuments New York, the American Government having had the are of great antiquarian value, as proving the transi- good sense to supply him with ample means for con- I tion from Eastern to Greek art. tinuing his researches in the best manner. These [For further details, see Atti d. Real. Acad. d. last, commenced in 1873, have been prosecuted at Scien. di Torino, vol. x. ; and Ceccaldi, Le ultime various ancient sites, such as those of Golgos, Sala- Scoperte nell' isola di Cipro, 1876.] mis. Palaeo-Paphos, Soli, and Amathus; Curium having ultimately proved the most valuable mine of antiquities. Besides two superb sarcophagi he had previously secured, M. Cesnola found at Curium a mosaic pavement, in style, as he calls it, Assyrio- Egyptian, which had already been partly dug through by some former excavator, and beneath this, at a depth of twenty feet, a subterranean passage in the rock leading into three chambers, communi- cating the one with the other. In the first of these he came upon a great number of small ornaments, rings, &c., in pure gold; in the second, on a con- siderable collection of gilt vases, cups, &c.; and in the third, on innumerable miscellaneous objects, comprising vases of alabaster, candelabra, metal mirrors, daggers, armlets, small statues of animals, &c. The most valuable individual specimens would seem to be a crystal vase and a pair of armillae in gold, bearing a double Cypriote inscription. What then is the history of this precious trouvaille 2 We r72 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 173 this city (in the Museum of Classical Antiquities), mentions that the names of the piers at the mouth of its harbour still preserve a record of St. Paul's voyage, the southern one being called after him, and the northern after Barnabas. Structures so vast as these CHAPTER V. may easily have remained to the present day, for ST. PAUL. Pococke states that some of the stones " are twenty During previous parts of this work we have, from feet long by five deep and six wide, and fastened voyage Seleucia time to time, alluded to the presence of St. Paul at together by iron cramps." The from various places to Cyprus is, generally, short and easy. we have described ; the interest, how- Salamis,^ <^ver, every one feels in the great Apostle of the The first place they made in the island was it Paphos, Gentiles induces us to throw together in one chapter whence they proceeded right across to a brief summary the residence of the Roman governor, Sergius Paulus, Pi of his journeys in Asia Minor ; the the remarkable more so, that to a Christian, studying the history of "a prudent man." Here we have this portion of Elymas the sorcerer, and of the conversion — of Western Asia, St. Paul stands out story alone "none but himself can be his parallel." of the governor on witnessing the miracle by the hand as be St. Paul's missionary labours commenced from the of St. Paul. Cyprus was at that time, may govern- period when the Holy Ghost said, "Separate me gathered from Dio Cassius, under the direct together with Syria Barnabas and Paul for the work whereunto I have ment of the Emperor of Rome, called " Cilicia ; but, a little later, this historian adds that them (Acts xiii. 2) ; an order, doubtless, given and Luke's title, at Antioch in Syria, as they soon after started from Augustus restored it to the Senate. St. that invariably Seleucia, the port of Antioch, for Cyprus, the native therefore, of proconsul is correct, as belonging to the home of Barnabas. Antioch was then the capital of given to the rulers of the provinces inscription in Boeckh confirms Northern Syria, and as much, if not more than Jeru- Senate. A Cyprian salem, the centre of Christian evangelization. Hence, this view. The occurrence of a person called a the natural reason why at Antioch men were " first called Christians." Seleucia, too, at the mouth of * Salamis was on the east side of the island, nearly opposite to Syria and, in early times, the capital of the island. It was the Orontes, about twenty miles below Antioch, was ; destroyed by the Romans, but rebuilt with the name of Con- the "key of Syria," and had, recently, obtained stantia. It was a little to the north of Famagousta, the name from Pompey the title of a " Free City," an honour of which, curiously enough, is not of Latin origin, as might be which it long retained. Dr. Yates (long a resident supposed, but a lineal descendant of the original Assyrian Am- in the neighbourhood), in an interesting memoir on mochosta. ASIA MINOR. 175 174 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF given the reason that in- *' sorcerer " at the court of the Roman governor is landed ; nor has he even this may have been as Matthew quite in accordance with the manners of the times. fluenced Mark ; but " not : Either he (Mark) did Thus, Juvenal sarcastically speaks of the " Orontes Henry has suggested to go and see his flowing into the Tiber." ^ like the work, or he wanted know, felt acutely, what he It has been often thought that, from the miracle mother." St. Paul, we short of a de- over Elymas, dates the change of the name of the might fairly have considered as little this secession led, as we shall see apostle from Saul to Paul, and certain it is that, sertion; indeed, separation between himself and subsequently to the words " Then Saul (who is hereafter, to the on the eve of his second missionary journey. also called Paul) " (Acts xiii. 9), the first name Barnabas Mark's reasons, certain it is he did de- does not occur again ; moreover, in his fourteen Whatever on with characteristic Epistles the apostle invariably calls himself Paul. So part, and that St. Paul pushed country the nature of which we happened it in earlier days, when Abram was changed bravery through a speaking of Cremna, Saga- into Abraham. It has been further supposed that, as have described when position of Perge ; and Barnabas was a native of Cyprus, the apostles were lassus, and of the probable be comprehended, in all its fulness, by induced to visit that island first ; but, for their crossing which may study the valuable re- to Attalia in Pamphylia, in preference to any other those who have time to Hamilton, Spratt and Forbes, port, no reason can be assigned, though we may con- searches of Leake and Fellows. It has been jecture that they acted on information obtained in Arundell and Sir Charles Paul travelling, as he Cyprus. The communication was no doubt easy and reasonably conjectured that, St. before the full heat of the probably constant. Attalia, as we have pointed out, probably did a little attached his small party to was then, as now, a place of some consequence, and summer had commenced, large group or caravan travelling inwards and almost the only port of southern Asia Minor : thence some direction. Many travellers, they proceeded up the steep and rugged defiles of northwards in the same Fellows, have pointed out the Pamphylian mountains to Perga, and, ultimately, and especially Sir Charles prevailing among the dwellers to Antiochia in Pisidia. The sacred writer records the annual custom of Asia Minor, of leaving no event on their route thither, except the secession of along the southern shores of the hot weather, and Mark, which probably took place soon after they had their homes at the beginning of migrating with their cattle and household property ' mountains. Juven. Sat. iii. 60 ; ib. vi. 584, 589. Horat. Od. i. xi. ; to the cooler valleys of the Sat. ii. I ; and Juven. iii. 13, and vi. 542, point out the number of With regard to Antioch in Pisidia, we have already Jewish impostors of the lowest kind with whom Rome was then shown that Mr. Arundell was the first to point out infested : Juvenal, vi. 553, indicates the influence the so-called that some ruins, now called Yalobatch, can scarcely Chaldean astrologers possessed there. 176 CREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 177 Sabbath, is worthy be any other than those of this Antioch. We need St. Paul's speech, on the second stated the not, therefore, dwell any longer on this point, simply of note as that in which he first definitely thus attacked by his adding, that, from its great commercial importance, object of his mission ; for, when St. Paul must have found there many resident Jews, own countrymen, he turned upon them with the words, should first while we know that there was at least one synagogue. " It was necessary that the word of God ye put it from you On arriving at Antioch, the narrative in the Bible have been spoken to you ; but, seeing life, we goes on to say that the Apostles "went into the and judge yourselves unworthy of everlasting the " " xiii. Strabo (vii. 3) synagogue on Sabbath-day, and sat down ; then, turn to the Gentiles (Acts 46). " " was a re- after the reading the Law, as was and still is, the usual has pointed out that feminine influence Asia custom, the rulers of the synagogue desired them to markable characteristic of the manners of Western availing them- speak, and St. Paul gave one of his most character- in his day, and of this we find the Jews Antioch, then, istic addresses, being, at first, well received by his selves, on this occasion. Leaving to Iconium, own countr}'men, and, especially so, by those persons the Apostles turned nearly south-east those days, who, having given up idol-worship, were usually which, as we have already stated, was, in Lycaonia. The known as proselytes. He was, therefore, invited to the chief town of the sub-district of notvery preach on the following Sabbath-day, the intervening treatment the Apostles received atlconiumwas at Antioch. week having been, no doubt, well employed in con- different from that they had experienced stirred up the stant meetings between St. Paul and these proselytes, Here, as there, "the unbelieving Jews successful in and in earnest addresses and exhortations. Hence, Gentiles," but were not, for some time, " to abide there we are told that, on this second occasion, came their designs, as the Apostles were able In fact, almost the whole city together to hear the word of a long time, " speaking boldly in the Lord." " city was divided, God." But this was more than the Jews could en- as at Ephesus, the multitude of the " part with the dure : so they stirred up the chief men of the city," and part held with the Jews, and " the Jews and the Apostles were soon after (we are not told Apostles (xiv. 4)- In the end, however, soon) "expelled out of their coasts," that is, had to save themselves how prevailed : so the Apostles Derbe, ordered to go beyond the limits of the Roman colony from being stoned, by flight " unto Lystra and of Antioch ; though, as they returned to it again, " Whosoever," in obedience to the direct words of our Lord : shortly afterwards, it is likely that no formal decree you, when ye depart said He, " shall not receive you nor hear testimony against of banishment was promulgated against them. On thence, shake off the dust under your feet as a It was, in fact, this " they shook off the dust of their feet against ihem " (Matt. x. 14; Mark vi. ii ; Luke ix. 5). was regarded as profane. them." 1 a symbolical act, implying that the city honourable women It may be presumed that the "devout and * The action used by the Apostles was, it will be rememberai. (Acts xiii. 50) were proselytes. N : 178 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 179 and Mercury of their fables. cities of Lycaonia, and unto the region that lieth own What was the " speech of Lycaonia " we have no means telling, round about" (ver. 6), "and there," it is added, of '' they preached the Gospel." no undoubted words of this dialect having, so far as we are aware, been preserved. We have, already, shown that there is some doubt But the Lycaonians, though, first, as to the position of these t^vo towns, but that at so readily convinced of the divinity of Mr. Falkener has probably found Lystra on the side the Apostles, soon showed themselves as fickle as the " of a mountain called Karadagh, at a place called by foolish Galatians." St. Luke adding, " and there the Turks Bin-bir-Kalessi, or, the Thousand Churches. came thither certain Jews from Antioch and Iconium So, too, the site of Derbe has, certainly, not been and persuaded the people, and having stoned Paul, yet made out completely; but, from the similarity drew him out of the city, supposing that he was dead," so little lasting of name, it may be at Divle, as suggested by was the Hamilton. impression produced, even by the cure of one born a cripple. It is, doubtless, to this attack upon The narrative of what took place at Lystra is very him that St. Paul, subsequently, alludes in the words, " interesting. At first, we may presume that St. Paul Once was I stoned" Cor. xi. preached to any chance groups that collected around (2 25). That he was not killed, like St. Stephen, as Barnabas and his friends him : after some time, however, he saw a poor cripple feared and the hoped, is " who had never walked," and " perceiving that he Jews a miracle in itself. Any how, he recovered at had faith to be healed," at once cured him, saying to once as "he rose up and came into the city," and departed next " him with a loud voice, " Stand upright on thy feet." day with Barnabas to Derbe." Need we wonder that the astonishment of the people It was at Lystra that St. Paul made the acquaintance of vented itself in the natural exclamation that "the Timotheus (or Timothy) his future constant and gods had come to us in the likeness of men." The steadfast companion. With Derbe ends all that has narrative implies the existence, before the walls of been recorded of St. Paul's First journey. On the return, however, of Paul and the city, of a temple of Jupiter (Acts xiv. 13), some Barnabas, we learn that they fearlessly visited traces of which may, perhaps, still remain, and, if again all the places where they so, ^^ill serve, hereafter, for the identification of the had previously preached, " confirming the souls of site. Messrs. Conybeare and Howson have pointed the disciples, and exhorting them to continue in the faith." At the same time, out that the beautiful legend of the visit of Jupiter too, they ordained " elders in every church," and Mercury to the earth, in Ovid's story of Baucis praying with fasting, and commending and Philemon, belongs to this part of Asia Minor "them to the Lord, on whom they believed." the people of Lystra would, therefore, have been pre- The course of the Second missionarj^ journey pared to recognize in Barnabas and Paul the Jupiter of N 2 s8o GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. 181 this St. St. Paul, most of which falls within the limits of are mentioned in the letter of the Apostles, that the volume, was probably determined on when the Coun- Paul did not fail to visit his native town. Tarsus, " governor. cil of the Apostles at Jerusalem sent letters unto "no mean city" of his address to the Roman the brethren which are of the Gentiles in Antioch, in At Tarsus, if anywhere in Cilicia, Christians would be " also, the Apostle's Syria, and in Cilicia (xv. 23) : it was manifestly, surely found who would be glad of " " must St. Paul's own desire, for he says, Let us go again " confirming words. From Tarsus, St. Paul great and visit our brethren in every city, where we have have passed from S.E. to N.W., through the announced the word of the Lord, and see how they mountain barrier which separates the central table-land Tarsus do." It was, on the proposal of this second journey, of Asia Minor from the plain country in which St. Paul the nearest that the famous dispute took place between was situated. There are several passes ; "Cili- and Barnabas, the former refusing to take with him to Tarsus and most direct, being that of the Bamabas's kinsman Mark, because he had turned cian Gates," a remarkable cleft, about eighty miles Paul back before. For this journey (at Attalia), there- in length. Ascending, probably, by this pass, St. of fore, " Paul chose Silas, and departed, being recom- would reach the plains of Lycaonia, at an altitude and in four or five days. mended by the brethren unto the grace of God ; about 4,000 feet above the sea, he went through Syria and Cilicia confirming the At Lystra (probably) he met* again the young disciple Lystra Churches " (ver. 40). We cannot discuss here the cir- • Timotheus, "who was well reported of at at m cumstances of this quarrel between the two "servants and Iconium," and who, at St. Paul's request, it clearly, " they went through of the Lord," but one good result from was, once joined him : thence, as for to keep a far wider preaching of the Gospel than might the cities they delivered them the decrees and Elders that otherwise have occurred ; as, by this separation, two that were ordained by the Apostles were the churches distinct streams of missionary labour were provided were at Jerusalem ; and so in number instead of one ; Barnabas taking the insular, while established in the faith, and increased occasion, St. St. Paul took the continental line. daily." We are not told that, on this We do not know which way St. Paul went on leaving Paul met with any serious opposition. journey is most Antioch, but it is most likely he passed into Cilicia The brevity of the account of this Paul by the " Syrian Gates," now called the pass of Beilan, disappointing, as we do not know whether St. learn is that the character of which may be fully learnt from Mr. visited even Antioch in Pisidia : all we of Ainsworth and other travellers. For some unknown he was ordered to " go through Phrygia and the region reason, Sacred history does not give the name of a Galatia," altogether new ground, and representing dis- before. Yet single place visited during this confirmatory tour, till tricts that could not have been evangelized recorded till he the Apostles reached Derbe and Lystra ; though we even here the names of no towns are " v^^'s. notpermitted may feel sure, especially as the " Gentiles of Cilicia gets to Mysia: on the other hand, he — OF ASIA MINOR. 183 l82 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS however, noticed here by " " Adramyttium, which is not, to preach the word in Asia ; that is, within Roman name, though it is subsequently, when on the voyage '* Asia," nor to enter Bithynia. Most likely, as sug- to Rome. Of this place we have, already, given some gested by Messrs. Conybeare and Howson, he fol- that the Apostle account : and hence, it would seem, lowed the great Roman lines of communication, and passed onwards to Assos and Alexandria Troas, where passed by Laodicea, Philomelium, and Synnada. the remarkable vision appeared to him which is thus It has been inferred from his use of the plural, " to described : the churches of Galatia," as the heading of his Epistle "And a vision appeared to Paul in the night. to that people, that there was no one great church There stood a man of Macedonia and prayed him, there, as at Ephesus or Corinth ; but this seems to us saying, Come over into Macedonia, and help us. refining too much. We may, however, suppose that no And, after he had seen the vision, immediately we special miracles marked this journey, or, at all events, endeavoured to go into Macedonia, assuredly gather- none which St. Luke thought it necessary to notice. ing that the Lord had called us for to preach the We learn from St. Paul himself (Galat. iv. 13) that it Gospel unto them. Therefore, loosing from Troas was owing to bodily sickness that he preached to the ..." we came with a straight course to Samothrace Galatians in the first instance, it may be, as has been {Acts xvi. 9, 10, 11). suggested, on his way to Pontus, from which distant Compelled as we are here to compress as much province we know that some Jewish proselytes had as possible what must be said, we reluctantly come to Jerusalem, and were present on the day of desist from following St. Paul to Europe. We Pentecost (Acts ii. 11) : moreover, it is certain, from need, therefore, only state that, after two years St. his Epistle to the Galatians, that he had been well Paul returned to Antioch in Syria and Jerusalem, received by this inconstant people, a large and mixed passing, on his way, sufficient time at Ephesus, so multitude having embraced Christianity. that " he himself entered into the synagogue, and As, in so many other instances, no clue is given us " the reasoned with the Jews (xviii. 19), promising, at as to the further route actually taken by the Apostles request of the congregation, that he would return to to Troas, but, by the Divine prohibition to them of Ephesus, "if God will." Having "saluted the preaching in "Asia," we may conjecture that the time Church" (probably of Jerusalem) he returned to was not ripe for spreading the Gospel among the great Antioch, and thence " departed and went over all cities of Ephesus, Smyrna, or Pergamus. It will be the country of Galatia and Phr>^gia in order, strength- noticed that the Apostles are not forbidden to enter at ening all the disciples,"! arriving, ultimately, Asia, as was the case with Bithynia, but only not to > not tell us anything 01 preach there. Indeed, they could not, easily, have got The brief statement in the Acts does " over Paul took on this occasion ; but as he went to Troas without " the course St. passing through Asia." no all the country of Galatia and Phrygia in order," we can have The first seaport St. Paul reached must have been ; ; 185 1 84 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. Anyhow, the Talmud Ephesus, where he found Apollos, " an eloquent man, was has been much debated. " of magic" was required as and mighty in the Scriptures (xviii. 24). tells us that a "knowledge seat in the Sanhedrm, II The visit of St. Paul to Ephesus was the period a necessary- qualification for a be able to try those ac- when it pleased God to do for the later disciples so that the councillor might some of these need what had been previously done, twelve or thirteen cused of such practices, though been of evil intention: it is years before, on the day of Pentecost : "the Holy not, necessarily, have of Sceva (xix. 14), that Ghost came on them, and they spake with tongues, clear, however, from the case " " made a bad use of any supe- and prophesied." In the present instance, it is many of the exorcists or pretended to have. enough to refer to the words in the narrative as rior knowledge they possessed this II " " however, in puttmg down given in the Acts xix. 2 : "He (St. Paul) said unto St. Paul's success, complete, that a large them, Have ye received the Holy Ghost since ye be- species of knavery, was so to him, and burnt lieved ? And they said unto him. We have not so number of the exorcists submitted 1 valued at a very high price. much as heard whether there be any Holy Ghost," their books, which were " " doubtless, as we have re- &:c " When they heard this, they were baptized The town-clerk was, officer, and, as the keeper in the name of the Lord Jesus ; and when Paul laid marked before, a Roman of the most important his hands upon them, the Holy Ghost came on them, of the public records, one language m putting and they spake with tongues, and prophesied.'* personages in the town. His this theatre clearly shows ; At Ephesus St. Paul dwelt more than two years, down the hneute in the to others of greater power diligently preaching the Gospel, and " disputing daily but, as he evidently refers some have done, that in the school of one Tyrannus." No opposition ap- than himself, we hardly think, as of the " Asiarchs," or, as our pears to have arisen for some time ; indeed, for three he was himself one of Asia." His language months, he was allowed the use of even the synagogue translation has it, "chiefs unfriendly to St. Paul (though but, in the end, the idol-brokers felt their trade was shows that he was not and, himself, a Christian) ; in jeopardy, and, especially, men, who, Hke Deme- not necessarily that he was, how to deal with a mul- trius, the silversmith, making the " silver shrines for further, that he well knew knew not wherefore Diana, brought no small gain unto the craftsmen." titude," the more part of whom As at Corinth, St. Paul at Ephesus was brought, they were come together." nearly to an end the short face to face, with Asiatic superstition, withstanding We have now brought to give of St. Paul's jour- even magic arts, as Moses did, Jannes, and Jambres, outline we felt it necessary after It is probable that, soon and, also, "exorcists." What this "magic" really neying in Asia Minor. for Macedonia the disturbance in the theatre, he left doubt that his visitation of the churches was complete, and that with Asia Mmor rest of his connection he went to all or most the so that the of places noticed in the previous- summed up m a journeys. or with the Greek islands may be ; 3 86 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS, ETC. few words. After some time passed in Macedonia^ with a possible journey through lUyricum and Western Greece, which occupied him for three months (xx. 3), •I St. Paul returned to the north, and, passing by ill Philippi and Neapolis, crossed the JEgaean to Alex- INDEX. andria Troas. This second visit to Troas is chiefly notable for the story of the boy Eutychus, who, overcome with sleep vrhen St. Paul continued his Ar.YDUS, Xerxes builds his treated by its neighbours, 160. speech until midnight, fell to the ground and was bridge near, 5. 159, excavations Ancyra, temple and inscription Cnidus, important killed. It will be observed, that, in the miracle of 73-80. of Augustus, I44-7' at by Mr. Newton, identified his restoration to life, St. Paul implied the use of Antiocir of Pisidia, site of, Colossse, satisfactorily suggested by Mr. Arun- by Mr. Hamilton, 142-3. the very words of our Saviour to the : young maiden recent valuable re- dell, proved by Mr. Hamil- Cyprus, " She is not dead, but sleepeth." Thence pro- seacrhes in by Mr. Lang and he ton, 1 1 1-4. General Palma di Cesnola, ceeded alone on foot twenty miles to Assos, through Apamea, and the legend of the ark resting there, 133-5. 166-171. a district then, as now, richly wooded, but with a good Argoeus, Mt., near Caesarea, as- Cyzicus, position of, 3. Roman road, long since in utter decay. It was a cended for the first time by Ephesus, one of the most im- Mr. Hamilton, 151. portant of the cities of W lonely walk the great Apostle pursued then ; but soli- i less ; discovery of its Asia Minor, size of, ; Asia, 37 tude is sometimes required to give greater strength. productive than of old, 2 famous temple of Diana by noticed here, From Assos St. Paul took ship to Mytilene, proceed- chief islands of, Mr. Wood, 42-45. Lesbos, Samos, Chios, Rho- Falkener, Mr., interesting ing onwards to Chios, Samos,Trogyllium,and Miletus. dus, and Cyprus, 156- 171. notice of Mt. Karadagh and At this last place, he summoned the elders from Ephe- Aspendus, beauty of theatre at, of Bir-bir-Kalisseh, the 1,001 sus, and bade a solemn farewell to the Christians of 102. churches, 130. of the monu- Assus, importance GoMPERZ, Prof., interpretation Asia, among whom he had laboured so long and so found there, 7. ments by of some inscriptions found gallant character of the efficiently; and passing thence by Coos and Rhodes Attali, by Dr. Schliemann, 27, 28. family of, 31, 32. to Patara, finally entered a ship there, and sailed ta remarkable petri- Attalia {now Adalia), important HiERAPOLis, factions near, 137, I39- Phoenicia (xxi. i). At Trogyllium the Admiralty chart port of, 99, 100. site of an- Beaufort, Capt., discovery by Hissarlik, the true shows a harbour that still bears the name of St. Paul's 10; as also of of the granary of Trajan at cient Troy, Port. far Troy, 29. So as we know, with the exception of touch- Myra, 98. new ancie oracle and IcoNiUM, its history, ing at Cnidus on his last voyage to Rome, St. Paul Branchidce, famous important and mediaeval, 127-8. temple at, 48, 49 ; had no further Hamilton identi- connection with Asia Minor. excavations at by Mr. New- Isaura, Mr. site of, 125-6. ton, 49-55. fies the for some time the Chios, through all history, an- Lampsacus, Themistocles, cient and modem, cmelly home of 5. - i88 INDEX. Christian ^iwtolcigf. Sflririg te |nrnwti«g Laodicea (ad Lycum), the chief Messrs. Biliotti and Saltz- town of Roman Proconsular mann, 162-5. natural po- 1. Sacalassus, grand SYSTEMS. Asia, 1 39- 14 NON-CHRISTIAN RELIGIOUS Lesbos, general character of its sition of, 107. citizens, 156-7- Samos, history of, 1 57" 1 59* ancien 2S. bd. each. Lystra and Derbe, difficulties in Sardes, importance of in Fcap. 8m, C/M boards, price history, 59-61. their identifi cation, 1 29- 1 30. Sarkophagi, so named from the BUDDHISM. ,^ ., Magnesia (the Lydian), le- Teachings of Gautama, the stone found at Assus, 8. Brinff a Sketch of the Life and gends of Tantalus and Niobe of the M.ddle Temple. Schliemann, Dr., remarkable Buddha By T.W. RHYS Davids, connected with, 56, 57. early career of, 12-14 ; ex- With Map. l^Iausoleum, or tomb of Mau- cavations by, at Troy, 14- excavations at, by Mr. COKFUCIANISM AND TAOUISM. solus, reasons for believing 24 ; his of the British Museum. Newton, 62-70. Professor Robert K. Douglas, Hissarlik the site of Troy, 16 By Miletus, great importance of its Map. (n.). With position as a port, and the Testis Selge, position of, not quite Composition and Teaching, aM tHe parent of more colonies than COEAN (THE) : its certain, 108, 109. bears to the Holy Scriptures. any other place in antiquity, mony it Selinus (in Cilicia), the death- K.C.S.L, LL.D. Sir William Muir, 45-7- place of the Emperor Tra- By Myra, remarkable beauty of its janus, 117. HINDUISM. „ __-. . - rock-cut tombs at, 97-8. residence of D.C.L., &c. With Map. Sinope, the royal By MONIER WILLIAMS, M.A., pAL.t-scEPSis, the MSS. of the kings of Pontus, 153, 154- as FOUNDER. Aristotle discovered there, 9. Smyrna, long endurance of, ISLAM AND ITS ^, ,- -^ B.A., Principal, La Martmiere Patara, celebrated oracle at, 96. a great port, 34, 35. By T W. PL Stobart, Map. Paul, St., missionary labours Soli (in Cilicia) and solecisms, College, Lucknow. With of, in Asia Minor, 172-186. 121 (n.). Philadelphia, famous resistance Stratonicea, remarkable inscrip- WORLD AND ST. PAUL of, to the Turks in A.D. 1390, tion of Diocletian thence, THE HEATHEN price 2s. each, ivith Map, 58. 81, 82. Fcap, 8m, Cloth boards, Philomelium, the best opium Tarsus, abundant interesting grown round it, 1 36 (and n. ). notices of, 113-6. ARABIA. ST. PAUL IN DAMASCUS AND Phrygians, the ethnological rela- Telmessus, famous for its au- M.A., Camden Pro- the Rev. George Rawlinson, tions of, 13 1-3. gurs> 95* By Ancient History, Oxford. Physcus (now Marmorice), Lord Termessus, remarkable position fessor of Nelson anchors his ships of, 104. s. d. Natural History of the Bible, The : being Africa Unveiled. By the Rev. H. Rowley. a Review of the Physical Geographj', Geology, and Meteorology With Map, and Eight full-page Illustrations on toned paper of the Holy Land, with a description of every Animal and 8vo o Crown Cloth Boards 5 Plant mentioned in Holy Scripture. By the Rev. Canon Tristram. Crown Svo. With numerous Illustrations. Cloth Boards 7 6 Bible Places ; or, the Topography of the Holy Land : a Succinct Account of all the Places, Rivers, and Mountains of the Land of Israel mentioned in the Bible, so far Narrative of a Modern Pilgrimage as they have been identified. 'I'ogether with their Modern THROUGH Palestine on Horseback, and with Tents. By n Names and Historical References. By the Rev. Canon Tkistkam. the Rev A. C. Smith, M.A., Rector of Yatesbury, Wilts. CrcwH%vo,f •with Map, Mutnerous Woodcuts Cloth Bourds 4 o Author of " The Attractions of the Nile,'" &c. Crown Svo. With numerous Illustrations and Four Coloured Plates.. ..C/tf/^iffi'art/j 5 o China. By Professor R. K. Douglas, of the Russia, Adapted from British Museum. With Map, and eight full-page Illustrations Past and Present. the German of Linkenau and Oelnitz. By Mrs. Chester. on toned paper, and several Vignettes, Fo%t^\o... .Cloth Boards jj o With Map, and three full-page Woodcuts and Vignettes. Post Svo Cloth Boards 5 o Christians under the Crescent in Asia. By the Rev. E. L, C"Tts, B.A,, Hon. D.D. University of the South Scenes in the East. Containing Twelve U.S., Author of "Turning Points of Church History," &c. Coloured Photographic Views of Places mentioned in the Bible. With numerous Illustrations. Post 8vo Cloth Boards o 5 By the Rev. Canon Tristram, Author of " The Land of Israel," &c. 410 Cloth Boards 7 6 India: The History of, from the EarHest Times to the Present Day. By L. J. Trotter, Author of Scripture Manners and Customs : being an " Studies in Biography." Post 8vo. With a Alap and 23 Account of the Domestic Habits, Arts, &c., of Eastern Nations Engravings Cloth Boards 10 6 mentioned in Holy Scripture. Seventeenth Edition. Fcap. Svo. With numerous Wood-cuts Cloth Boards 4 o Israel : The Land of. A Journal of Travels in Palestine, undertaken with Special Reference to its Physical Sinai and Jerusalem ; or, Scenes from Bible Character. Fourth Edition, revised. By the Rev. Canon Lands, consisting of Coloured Photographic Views of Places Tristram. With numerous Illustrations Cloth Boatds 10 6 mentioned in the Bible, including a Panoramic View of Jerusalem. With Descriptive Letterpress by the Rev. F. W. Holland, M. A. 4to. Cloth, Bevelled Boards, gilt edges 7 6 Jerusalem : The Siege of. By the Right Rev. R. S. CopLESTON, Bishop of Colombo. Post Svo. With an Illustration and Plau ot the Temple, Limp Cloth i 6 St. Paul : The Cities Visited by. By the Rev. Professor Stanley Leathes, M.A., King's College, London. Fcap. Svo. With Nine Wood-cuts Limp cloth i o Jewish Nation : A History of the. From the Earliest Times to the Present Day. By the late E. H. Palmer, Esq., M.A., Author of "The Desert of the Exodus." Turning Points of English Church Author Crown Svo. With Map and numerous Illustrations. Cloth Boards 5 o History. By the Rev. Edward L. Cutts, B.A., of " Some Chief Truths of Religion," " St. Cedds Cross," &c. Crown Svo Cloth Boards 2 ^ Lesser Lights; or, Some of the Minor Characters of Scripture traced, with a View to Instruction and Example in Daily Life. First and Second Series. By the Rev. Turning Points OF General Church F. BouRDiLLON, M.A., Author of " Bedside Readings," &c. History. By the Rev. E, L. Cutts, B.A., Author of Post Svo CiotJi Boards, each Series 2 6 "Pastoral Counsels," &c. Crown Svo Cloth Boards 5 $mt^ fax lomoling €\xhim fnotolcIi|t. ANCIENT HISTORY FROM THE MONUMENTS. Fcajf. Svo.f Cloth boards^ price 2s. each^ with Illustrations. ASSYRIA, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE FALL OF NINEVEH. By the late George Smith, Esq., of the Department of Oriental Antiquities, British Museum. BABYLONIA, THE HISTORY OF. By the late George Smith, Esq. Edited by the Rev. A. H. Sayce, Assistant Professor of Comparative Philo- logy* Oxford. EGYPT^ FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO B.C. 300. By S. Birch, LL.D., &c. GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. By W. S. W. Vaux, M.A., F.R.S. PERSIA^ FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE ARAB CONQUEST. By W. S. W. Vaux, M.A., r.R.S. SINAI, FROM THE FOURTH EGYPTIAN DYNASTY TO THE PRESENT TIME. ByH. Spencer Palmer, Major, Royal Engineers, F.R.A. S. DEPOSITORIES : NORTHUMBERLAND AVENUE, CHARING CROSS, W.C. ; 43, QuEKM Victoria Street, E.G. ; and 48, Piccadilly, W. London. COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES', This book is due on the date indicated below, op at the i expiration of a definite period after the date of borrowing, as provided by the library rules or by special arrangement with the Librarian in charge. DATE BORROWeO DATK DUE DATE BORROWED DATE DUE 1 WMr •r , ^1 '^^ C28(946)MIOO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^t ' •