Of Emilia Romagna
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of Emilia Romagna Index Introduction p. 1 History and Art p. 2 Landscapes p. 24 Passions p. 44 Personalities p. 64 Cuisine p. 86 Golf p. 96 Mice p. 102 1 Art Cities: A mosaic of emotions Emilia-Romagna boasts an extraordinary collection of emotions, and its art cities are the most representative expression of this richness and variety of feelings. From Piacenza, one of the region’s most austere yet sophisticated cities, to Rimini, the capital of seaside tourism, these wonderful resorts follow one another along the ancient Via Aemilia, that is the pivotal point of the vast region. Come here and visit the noble city of Parma, the seat of the European Food Authority and undisputed capital of food; the patriotic Reggio Emilia, the home town of the Italian Tricolore; Modena, the native city of Enzo Ferrari gathering countless Romanesque masterpieces; the Etruscan city of Bologna, the region’s multicultural capital; Faenza, whose name has currently become synonymous with ceramics; Forlì and Cesena, that develop on the slopes of the region’s sweet hills and welcome tourists with the utmost warmth and hospitality. This outstanding heritage is complemented by two authentic jewels, that have recently been included in the prestigious list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites together with the Romanesque Modena: The Byzantine Ravenna, the former capital of the Western Roman Empire, and Ferrara of the Este Family, the cradle of Renaissance that extends halfway between the banks of the river Po and the Padan Plain. Those flocking here to admire the beauty of the region will have the possibility to take an outstanding virtual tour between past and future: On the one hand, they will have the opportunity to discover its inestimable artistic and architectural heritage while riding their bikes down the streets or walking under its famous arcades; on the other hand they will have the chance to enjoy its well-established culture of wellness, creativity and hospitality, thus laying the foundation for a bright future. Visiting these splendid cities will bring back lots of nice memories; tourists will have the chance to perceive subtle differences and nuances among them while feeling they are all part of a common heritage. There seems to be common traits behind them all: Authentic origins, broadened horizons and open-minded people. Graziano Prantoni President of Unione di Prodotto Città d’Arte, Cultura e Affari dell’Emilia Romagna History and Art The 10 art cities of Emilia-Romagna, “Land with a Soul”, deserve to be discovered slowly in order to capture their very essence, enjoy their atmosphere and unveil the secrets of their fascination. They will be introduced one at a time. Here are some highlights: Apart from being the entrance gate to Emilia, Piacenza is a city of austere beauty whose pleasantly understated old centre full of fine medieval and Renaissance buildings and nearby rural villages and castles are able to attract large numbers of visitors. Parma, the former capital of the Duchy, cherishes inestimable art treasures. The eternal “pétite capitale” has a provincial feel and easy-going air, as evidenced by the pastel-coloured houses and buildings that overlook the city’s tree- lined avenues. Reggio-Emilia, the native city of the Italian Tricolore, is permeated with the atmosphere of bygone times and peppered with sumptuously decorated Baroque churches. Three cities are part of the prestigious list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Modena, with its Romanesque Piazza Grande, Duomo and Ghirlandina, that offer precious insights into medieval art and religion; Ferrara, with its Renaissance old town and the splendid Delizie Estensi of the Po Delta; Ravenna, that was the capital of Italy for three times and is still scattered with splendid mosaics of great value. The famous arcades of Bologna, that has already been dubbed “Creative City of Music” by UNESCO, are currently waiting to be included in the prestigious list. Permeated with culture, Bologna is the perfect mixture of all different regional aspects. The river Sillaro marks the watershed between Emilia and Romagna. Here comes Faenza, that is synonymous with the faïence ceramic-ware to which it gave its name. Not be missed is the rationalist city of Forlì, that often hosts important art exhibitions and displays. Cesena is the cradle of the Malatesta Family, whose members gave the old town its current aspect and commissioned the building of its prestigious Library, that is included in the prestigious UNESCO list. Our journey across the region ends in an unusual Rimini, the homeland of Fellini and the Malatesta Family, that develops halfway between the Montefeltro area and the Adriatic Coast and cherishes outstanding beauties blessed with great charm. 3 History and Art Piacenza Farnese’s Horses Pordenone’s unique Pride of place goes to two bronze equestrian statues Mannerist style in the central Piazza Grande, the work of the famous Santa Maria di Campagna was erected in the place sculptor Mochi. Lauded as masterpieces of Baroque where Pope Urban II proclaimed the First Crusade in sculpture, they were placed in the heart of the city 1095. Giovanni Antonio de’ Sacchis, also known as according to the urban project Michelangelo had Pordenone, realized his masterpiece in this church previously developed for the Campidoglio: The im- working from 1530 to 1532: The frescoes adorning pact was so strong that the name of the square was the dome and St. Catherine’s Chapel, the latter con- turned into Piazza Cavalli. Commissioned by the local taining the most famous scene, the Dispute of Saint citizens who wanted to show their devotion to the Catherine with Pagan Philosophers. In 1535 he re- duke, they were realized by the Tuscan artist Mochi, alized the fresco depicting Saint Augustine and the a pupil of Giambologna, in about sixteen years, from Chapel of the Magi, that is decorated with plenty 1612 to 1628. The statues represent Alessandro of scenes depicting the Nativity, characterized by Farnese, whose dynamism is underlined by his man- beautiful female figures and an extraordinary com- tel and the quivering mane of his horse, and his son bination of colours of exquisite Venetian style. His Ranuccio I Farnese, who is depicted wearing Roman unique ability to depict foreshortened views is best dress and sceptre. Both sculptures are supported by exemplified in the frescoes of the dome. Pordenone’s a marble base embellished by four large bronze bas- Michelangelo-style foreshortened views and bright reliefs and sixteen putti bearing coats of arms, that colours, that were almost unconventional in com- maybe drew inspiration from those that appear at parison with Classic composure, found their best the foot of Raphael’s , a precious Sistine Madonna expression in the Basilica, a kind of an art gallery masterpiece that was cherished by the local Church with a powerful visual impact. of St. Sisto for the entire seventeenth century. Tondo by Botticelli Teatini Hall Madonna and Child look at each other thoughtfully, Extensive restoration works and state-of-the-art calmly meditating on the events to come, while San technology solutions contributed to turn the origi- Giovannino lifts his arms to reach for Mary’s hand: nal Teatini Hall of the former church of St. Vincenzo This is the scene depicted by this famous pain- into a real artistic jewel and the ideal location to ting, the Virgin contemplating her son and a rose listen to good music. The building, that was erected garden and quiet Leonardo-style landscape in the at the end of the sixteenth century, regained its background. Botticelli depicts the transparency of original splendour thanks to extensive renovation the veil of the Madonna with the utmost elegance, works that were aimed at restoring its façade, pain- that comes to her shoulders forming superimposed tings, stuccoes, wooden artworks and eighteenth- folds: It seems possible to perceive the soft breeze century frescoes. The former church was then tur- that slightly moves the veil. The natural gesture of ned into a modern auditorium featuring unrivalled the Child derives from Flemish models, but also re- acoustics, and it is now the venue for Piacenza’s minds of his circumcision as a descendant of David. most important music and culture events. Not to be missed is the splendid original frame, that was carved and then gold plated. This outstanding Not to be missed masterpiece is the pride of the rich collections che- rished by the Civic Museums of Palazzo Farnese. • Gothic Palace • Duomo • Basilica of Saint Anthony • Chiaravalle della Colomba 1. Francesco Mochi, equestrian statue of Alessandro Farnese, Piazza Cavalli • Vigolo Marchese Church and Baptistery 5 2. Sandro Botticelli, Madonna and Child with John the Baptist (detail), Civic Museums Palazzo Farnese 3. Pordenone, Nativity (detail), Basilica of Santa Maria di Campagna 4. Teatini Hall History and Art Parma Teatro Farnese Antelami’s Almanac The most fascinating sight belonging to the austere The medieval culture did not separate the different Palazzo Pilotta is Teatro Farnese, that was totally aspects of life and continuously looked for connec- constructed from wood. Made of light materials, tions between daily life and religion. Religious buil- such as painted wood and stucco, it was commis- dings often cherished peculiar “calendars” in which sioned by Ranuccio I to celebrate the visit of Cosimo the year was represented by twelve sculptures cor- II de’ Medici. The amphitheatre-shaped room, that responding to the months. One of the most famous was often the venue for challenging tournaments cycles is that sculpted by Benedetto Antelami, that and naumachia, is encircled by thirteen specta- is currently cherished by Parma’s Baptistery. Every tor stalls and two orders of arches and banisters month is interpreted by a character while perfor- embellished by plenty of ornamental sculptures ming a farming activity.