©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ThePOP 9264 Marquesas

Includes  Why Go? ...... 168 Grand, brooding and powerful, nature’s fingers have sculpt- Taiohae...... 169 ed the into sharp silhouettes that jut up ‘...... 176 dramatically from the cobalt-blue ocean. Waterfalls taller than skyscrapers trickle down vertical canyons, the ocean ‘...... 180 thrashes towering cliffs, basalt pinnacles project from ...... 182 ­emerald forests, and scalloped bays are blanketed with Atuona & Around...... 183 ­desert arcs of white or black sand. ...... 189 Some of the most inspirational hikes and horseback rides Fatu Hiva...... 191 in are found here, allowing walkers and horse riders the opportunity to explore the islands’ rugged­ interiors. Here the past is almost palpable, thanks to a wealth of archaeological remains dating from pre-European times. Best Places Another highlight is the culture. In everything from to Stay ­cuisine and dances to language and crafts, the Marquesas ¨¨Temetiu Village (p185) do feel different from the rest of French Polynesia. But don’t expect turquoise lagoons, swanky resorts and an electric ¨¨Keikahanui Nuku Hiva Pearl Lodge (p173) nightlife – the Marquesas are an ecotourist’s dream, not a beach-holiday destination. ¨¨Hotel Hanakéé Hiva Oa Pearl Lodge (p186) When to Go ¨¨Closer to the equator than the rest of French Polynesia, Best the Marquesas’ climate is a bit different. Temperatures and Archaeological humidity tend to be slightly higher than in Tahiti. Sites ¨¨There is no bad time to visit: in theory, June to September ¨¨Iipona (p188) sees heavier rain while November to March is drier (exactly ¨¨Kamuihei, Tahakia & opposite from the rest of French Polynesia) and experiences Teiipoka (p175) calmer seas (better for boat excursions and diving). ¨¨Tohua Koueva (p169) ¨¨In odd number years in December, try to catch the Marquesas Festival or mini Marquesas Festival. The Marquesas Marquesas Highlights 167 100 km Puamau 50 miles Fatu Hiva p Tahuata u ro G n e r

'Ua Huka h Sou t

u p Hiva Oa G r o n 0 0 e r 'Ua Pou h Anaho Bay t r

o Hiva Nuku N OCEAN Marquesas SOUTH PACIFIC aising your head high to see the see high to head your aising ettling into island life under the island life into ettling earching for the rare and beautiful the rare for earching njoying a picnic on a secluded white- a picnic on a secluded njoying Motu One S Wandering amid the mossy, ancient amid the mossy, Wandering E R

Forgetting what day it is on lost and it is on lost what day Forgetting azing down impenetrable waterfall- impenetrable Gazing down S Clip-clopping across the fecund the fecund Clip-clopping across Hiking or boating to the white white the to Hiking or boating (p188). (p188). at Puamau statues) (sacred Valley Hakaui Pou ‘Ua of spires basalt towering striking, (p180). (p191). Hiva lush Fatu streaked valleys while hiking across the while hiking across valleys streaked heartland. (p170) Hiva Nuku Oa in Hiva vistas marvellous to interior (p185). Anaho Bay of peaks and jagged beaches (p174). 2 3 6 7 The Highlights 1 8 9 4 5 tiki (p189). (p189). Tahuata of bay sand tallest falls in the country in the stunning in the stunning in the country falls tallest (p174). Valley Hakaui (p178). (p178). Huka on ‘Ua aquamarine lorikeet Iti Hatu ------Pacific Pacific Joseph Joseph collapsed. uncovering Marquesas served aas Marquesas ‘discovered’ the northern of the group ‘discovered’ Upon contact with Western influences, the contact with Western Upon Under the French yoke, the Marque yoke, the French Under the 20thIn were century the Marquesas French interest grew in the region as a French In 1774, James Cook lingered for four days Cook lingered James 1774, In The Marquesas’ isolation was broken in was broken isolation The Marquesas’ ies, who had been active since their arrival in 1838, persevered, and Cathol on Tahuata entrenchedicism became, and still is, firmly in the Marquesas. society ­ of Marquesan foundations sas almost fell into oblivion – the French sas almost – the French fell into oblivion preferred to develop­administration Pape’ete which they thought had a more on Tahiti, missionar Only the Catholic value. strategic means of countering English expansion in After a reconnaissance voyage the Pacific. Dupetit-Thouars Abel Admiral Rear 1838, in in 1842 in the took possession of Tahuata King Louis-Philippe. name of French Whaling crewsbrought alcohol, firearms and syphilis. The plummeted population from around 18,000 in 1842 to 2096 in 1926. Oa residents Paul made famous by Hiva Brel. Jacques Gauguin and Belgian singer Slow but sure development of infrastructure isolation, has helped lessen the archipelago’s while archaeological surveys are ­ a culture was lost only a comparatively that short while ago. gelism were unsuccessful. were gelism on Tahuata during his second voyage. ­ voyage. during his second on Tahuata tane and Hiva Oa, and anchored for aroundtane and Hiva Mendaña on Tahuata. Bay in Vaitahu 10 days christened these four islands Las Marquesas the sponsor, his of honour in Mendoza de de Mendoza. Hurtado García viceroy of Peru, onisation varyonisation prehistory from between to 1100. AD 900 and Don Alvaro Spanish navigator 1595 when by Hiva sighted Fatu y Neyra de Mendaña fleet pastsailed along Mo chance. Mendaña’s American commander of the the Ingraham, Hope, ahead arriving slightly in 1791, Marquesas whose Étienne Marchand, of Frenchman took on fresh supplies atmerchant vessel 1797, In Pou. and then landed on ‘Ua Tahuata pastorProtestant William Crook, a young with the London Missionary Society (LMS), evan at attempts his but Tahuata, on landed dispersal point for the whole Polynesian for the whole Polynesian ­dispersal point and to Easter Island Hawai’i triangle from Zealand.New col of the islands’ Estimates Among the first islands to be settled by the to be settled islands the first Among South ­ the great during the migrations, History