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1. FACTFILE for holidays in Nepal, but you should be cautious of mosquitoes as they carry more than malaria; ensure Capital: Kathmandu. you take measures to prevent bites by using insect Population: Approx. 29 million . repellent sprays, sticks or lotions and sleeping under Languages: Nepali is the National language but a mosquito net. there are thought to be 20 main language groups and many dialects. Religions: 81 % Hindu, 9 % Buddhist, 4 % Muslim, 6 % other. Voltage: Major towns have electricity and the voltage available is 220-volts and 50 cycles. Load shedding is a seasonal phenomenon during the dry season and eases off once it begins to rain. However, most major hotels have uninterrupted power supply through their own generators. Sockets are of the European two pronged, round pin variety. Visas Time Zone: 5 hours 45 ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+5.45 GMT). Daylight Saving All nationalities except Indians require a visa for Time is not observed. Nepal. Tourists are allowed a total of 150 days per Telephone Codes: 977, country code for Nepal; year in Nepal. Visas are obtainable from embassies 1, city code for Kathmandu. abroad or on arrival at Kathmandu’s airport, be pre- pared for long queues.

2. PREPARING TO GO If getting your visa on arrival you will need to pro- vide one passport photo (just a small photo of your- Vaccinations self, no rules about how you tilt your head etc!) and the following fees (US dollars are recommended): It is advisable to make an appointment with your health care professional for required immunizations 1. US $ 25 or equivalent foreign currency for before traveling to Nepal. Different doctors tend Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 15 days. to recommend different things depending on their 2. US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency for travel medicine experience, so try to find a doctor Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days. or centre that specializes in travel medicine for the 3. US $ 100 or equivalent foreign currency for most up to date vaccination/health information – this Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days. could save you having to take shots that you don’t 4. US $ 2 or equivalent foreign currency per day for really need (thereby saving you money) or, worse, visa extensions (and you have to spend time in not getting a shot that you do require. the immigration office, so best to get the full time you need in your first visa!) If you are traveling from an area which is known to 5. Tourists with passport from South Asian have yellow-fever, you will be required to provide Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) a certificate, stating that you have been vaccinated. nations aren’t required to pay visa fee for the first Malaria medication is generally not recommended 30 days.

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It’s a good idea to carry the cash with you in US dol- amount you wish to bring in. Indian Rupees (INR) lars and to fill out your two forms on the plane (you are widely accepted in Nepal (with the exception of may have to ask for them), as you will get further up 500 and 1000 INR notes) even though in theory it is the visa queue! When you come into the arrival hall, illegal to export them from . The rate is set at look for the sign at the far end that says ‘without 100 INR = 160 NPR. visa’ – just past the diplomats! Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATM’s Please note: regulations and costs for visas change Changing money is a quick and simple process in frequently so it’s advisable to check the current major tourist centres (Kathmandu and ) rules with your nearest Nepalese embassy or consul- where there are many banks, exchange offices and ate. For information on the location of your nearest hotels. It is easy to get away from carrying cash and embassy or consulate we recommend the following travellers cheques, as ATM’s are widely available in website: http://www.embassyworld.com/embassy/ Kathmandu and Pokhara and credit cards are often nepal1.html accepted in larger shops and more Permits expensive hotels and restaurants. The ATMs In some areas of Nepal you require a trekking permit are the easiest way and all treks require a registration. If you visit a to get your money and National Park then you need to pay National Park provide the best rates, entrance fees. We can make all these arrangements as you withdraw direct for you and include them in the price of your tour. from the bank, rather We will need a copy of your passport for any flight than going through an bookings and will need passport photos for permits exchange agent. and registration. Please be prepared to give these to us upon request. In more remote areas, particularly while trekking, exchange/ATM facilities will not be available so you Money matters must make sure you have enough currency to last the duration of your trek. Your hosts will be able to Local Currency advise you of the best places to change money and Nepal’s monetary unit in is the Nepali Rupee (NPR), how much you should budget during treks. which are found in denominations of 1000, 500, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. Credit cards like American Express, Master and Visa are widely accepted at major hotels, shops, and Approximate exchange rates (of course they fluctu- restaurants, with a bank charge added onto the total. ate) are as follows: Remember to keep your Foreign Exchange Encash- 1 Pound Sterling = 140 NPR ment Receipt while making foreign exchange pay- 1 US Dollar = 87 NPR ments or transferring foreign currency into Nepalese 1 Euro = 115 NPR rupees. Check current exchange rates with this handy cur- rency converter: http://www.xe.net/ucc/ Left over Nepal Rupees can only be exchanged back on production of your original encashment receipt. It You do not have to declare the amount of foreign or is not possible to change back more than is shown on local currency you are bringing into the country, if your encashment receipt. it is less than US$5000, nor are you limited to the

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Tipping Working out your Budget Tipping is appreciated in tourist restaurants, with 10% being the accepted norm. These days many Here is some general information about things you’ll places include a 10% service charge on top of the need to consider when budgeting for your holiday. bill, in which case there is no need to tip unless you are very happy with the service. Round up the fare Entrance Fees for taxi drivers. For city sightseeing it is nice to tip Although many of our tours include entrance fees to your guide if you had a great day and learnt a lot. If all sites specified in your itinerary, there are addi- you go trekking, tip your porters and guides well as tional sights that you may like to visit. On average they work very hard to ensure your safety and enjoy- entrance fees are not more than US$1-2, although a ment. Some of our trips include a tips kitty to take handful of sites cost a few dollars more than this. the hassle out of this sensitive issue for our guests – please ask for this if you would like us to handle it The historic towns of Bhaktapur and Patan levy a for you. charge on tourists of US$12 and US$6 respectively to help towards heritage conservation. Likewise, Departure Tax entry to Kathmandu’s Durbar Square is subject to There used to be a departure tax levied on all depar- a US$8 fee (once purchased your ticket is valid for tures through the Kathmandu airport. Most flights in- 7 days and can be extended by visiting the Durbar clude it now, but do be sure to check when you book Square site office). Three of the most popular tem- your flight that it is included and you don’t need to ples in the ; Bouddanath Stupa, take rupees to the airport. Pashupatinath Temple and the Swayambhunath Temple cost approximately US$3 each. A Word of Advice Take along a little bit more money than you think Optional Excursions & Activities you will actually need, just in case – you don’t have All of our itineraries include some free time, the to spend it! Remember, few insurance policies will amount of which usually depends on the style of tour provide you with instant cash in an emergency and you are travelling on. If you wish to take optional you cannot count on borrowing money from fellow excursions your tour leader will be able to advise travellers. you of the possibilities in each area. A very popular excursion is the Everest Sightseeing Flight which takes about 1 hour to fly to Mt Everest and back along the incredible Himalayan Range.

Meals Your trip itinerary will clearly indicate which meals are included in the tour price; while camping on our tours all meals are included in the tour price. Ap- proximate costs for meals and snacks not included are shown below;

Simple snack US$1-2 Light meal US$2-5 Fancy restaurant US$7-10

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Drinks What to Bring and is always provided with breakfast on our tours. All other drinks are at your own expense, You will receive a gear list once you have booked unless specified in the itinerary. Approximate costs your tour which contains a comprehensive list of for drinks bought in a shop in the street are shown items that you should consider bringing with you. below. There are also certain items of specific equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, down jackets) that you will need Please note: Prices in restaurants and hotels can be on some tours and not on others. So once you have as much as double those specified. booked, please check with us with regard to any special items for your tour. 1l of water US$0.25 300ml bottle of soft drink US$0.30 Clothing 650ml bottle of beer US$3 As a general guideline, clothing for both trekking and non-trekking trips should be lightweight, loose Please note: When trekking, prices rise (sometimes fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. In the hotter double or triple) with altitude. summer months, cotton clothing is much more com- fortable than man-made materials like nylon. In the winter months (Dec-Feb) Nepal can get extremely cold (particularly in the mountains) so you should bring plenty of warm clothing. Make sure you al- low for weather changes (even in the lowlands) and remember that even when day-time temperatures are quite high, night-time and early morning tem- peratures can be extremely cold. You will generally find it is better to have several thin layers rather than one thick layer as it gives you more flexibility and warmth. Fleece tops are invaluable and can double as a pillow.

Please bear in mind that Nepal has conservative attitudes towards dress, particularly in remote and mountain areas. Women, and also to a certain extent You should not drink the local tap water in Nepal. men, will find that the way they dress will often However, bottled water, carbonated soft drinks determine the degree of respect they receive from and fruit juices are widely available throughout the both men and women. We ask that you bring lots country. To save on the packaged products (although of clothing that covers shoulders and knees (prefer- glass soft drink bottles are recycled, or rather, re- ably most of your leg!) and also more than one outfit used) you can drink boiled water (we boil and filter which covers your legs to ankles and your arms past ours in Kathmandu) or treat it with iodine and a lot the elbows – just forget that you have legs and shoul- of restaurants and hotels will have big drinking water ders because, basically, no-one wants to see them! bottles where you may be able to fill up your water A sarong is an invaluable item to carry as it can be bottle. Safe drinking water is available on the treks. used to instantly cover any exposed areas.

For a guide to the type of food you will find in Nepal All sorts of casual clothing and good quality trek- see the general information section of this dossier. king gear is available in Kathmandu and Pokhara

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now - there is a huge amount of cheap and appropri- * Sense of adventure ate clothing available, as well as more expensive and * Comfortable walking/sport shoes, casual shoes good quality items. and sandals * Spare shoe/boot laces Trekking Clothing * Two pairs of shorts and long pants Clothing for trekking depends on the altitude your * Swimwear trek will reach and the time of year you are travel- * T-shirts ling, so ask us for details specific to your trip. On * Sweater or fleece trek it is vitally important that you make sure your * Sunhat feet are comfortable. Sturdy trainers are suitable for * Sunglasses warm weather trekking and hiking in the foothills * Sunscreen and lip balm although they do lack ankle support. For all other * Camera treks, (well worn in) hiking boots and cotton or * Insect repellent spray woollen socks are essential. * Personal first aid kit (your guides have a comprehensive one but it’s nice to have your own) For all treks and especially when we visit remote * Passport with at least six months remaining Nepali villages we request you wear trousers that are * A daypack well below knee length and shirts that cover your * A head-torch with spare batteries shoulders, out of respect for local culture & values. * Water bottles (that can take hot water as we boil it for you on the trail) * Energy bars for snacks

An emergency first aid kit is carried by the guide; however we recommend you bring personal medi- cal supplies, including rehydration salts, a blister kit, supply of plasters, aspirins, sunscreen, any personal prescription medicines you need, etc.

Please note: it is your responsibility to bring and to Kathmandu is well known for its copies of trekking carry with you any personal medications you need gear, but there are also some good quality gear stores along with a spare in case one package is lost. here now, some are the big brand stores selling their own gear (eg North Face, selling ‘last year’s’ stock at For the more physical adventures and to help in- good prices) and a few sell their own Nepali brands crease your comfort and performance you may wish which are good quality and much cheaper! You can to bring some of your favourite personal/specialist even buy thermals and the smart wool trekking shirts equipment such as bike helmet, biking shorts, biking in Kathmandu these days! So you can contribute to gloves, hydration pack, and your favourite pair of the local economy by buying most of the gear you walking/hiking shoes. need right here! Please feel free to check any gear requirements with us before you leave home. We find that the best sort of bag to take hiking is a strong duffel bag – hard shell suitcases are not what Other Useful Equipment you want to take along with you! Many people bring Your gear list will give you a detailed outline of a big backpack with them for all their gear, but if what will be required on your adventure, but we you don’t already have one then don’t buy one espe- highly recommend you bring the following items: cially, just buy a duffel bag for all your gear and then

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a small backpack / daypack for the items you want 3. CULTURAL & ENVIRONMENTAL GUIDE- with you on the trail. LINES

Valuables The Environment Generally you do not need to take valuables, such as jewellery on this trip. Hotels do have safe deposit Toilets boxes for items like passports, travellers’ cheques We use toilet tents at camp sites and dig deep holes, and jewellery – but for safety’s sake please leave so you can put your toilet paper in these. However your precious jewellery at home. during the day when it’s is not possible to use a toilet tent please make a hole for faeces (urine does not Insurance need to be buried) and make sure you are not going Travel Insurance is compulsory on all Himalayan near a water source. Please burn your toilet paper – Trails trips and is a condition of booking with us. do not bury it. If it is not possible to burn it, please Having good travel insurance will not only guaran- take it back to the camp where it can be placed in the tee you peace of mind while you travel with us but toilet tent and disposed of appropriately. also provide you with complete cover for anything that may go wrong. A helicopter evacuation from Wherever you use a western or squat style toilet the mountains can run into thousands and thousands be sure to place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin of dollars and we don’t want you to get landed with provided – do not flush it down the toilet as this may this unexpected and unwelcome bill! We recommend block the sewer system. You may also want to carry a comprehensive travel insurance policy that cov- your own toilet paper as not all public toilets will ers repatriation and evacuation in case of a medical supply it and many don’t have soap either, so a gel emergency, cancellation and curtailment as well as cleaner/small soap is a good thing for your daypack. baggage and valuables. If your tour involves certain adventurous activities (i.e. trekking, white water Litter rafting, etc) you will need to make sure your policy While trekking, rafting, biking etc it is important to specifically covers these activities and check if they take all rubbish and non-biodegradable items with specify a maximum altitude to make sure you’re you when we leave camp sites. While the awareness covered. You may also need specific cover for ex- about littering is not so strong in Nepal, we don’t pensive camera equipment. want to contribute to the problem, so please leave camp sites cleaner than you found them. Prepare Yourself

We can tailor tours to the requirements of each of our groups, so each tour will be different in terms of physical demand on your body. Generally you don’t have to be super-fit, and age in itself is no barrier to travelling the ! However, as with every- thing we do, the fitter you are the easier it is for your body to adapt to new conditions and being on the move. Before making your choice of trip, things to consider are the duration of your trip, its grading, style of accommodation and maximum and average altitude.

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The Culture Bargaining Bargaining is a way of life in Nepal. In most shops Religion there is no fixed price so the shop keeper will start Travellers should respect that religion is an inher- with a high price which you are then expected to ent part of Nepali life. We encourage travellers to bargain it down until you reach a fair price. Bargain- experience religious festivals and visit temples and ing should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun shrines but ask that you follow religious rules such – you will find most shop owners are very friendly! as removing your shoes and refraining from taking Never, ever get angry or loose your temper when photographs at certain sites. At Hindu temples, non- bargaining! Hindus are not usually permitted to enter the inner sanctum – look for signs or ask for advice. Please Photography wear appropriate clothing at shrines/religious sites Photographing mountain landscapes is one thing, i.e. no legs or shoulders! photographing people quite another, especially if those people are foreign and poor. Don’t just stop, click the shutter and walk off, try and have some sort of personal contact with the person you wish to photograph and ask their permission first. Usually Nepalese respond warmly to smiles and friendly attitudes. Please be tactful, unobtrusive and respect- ful and sensitive to the feelings and dignity of the person being photographed. It may be possible for us to arrange for copies of the photo’s you take to be sent to villages with future tours, but it is better not to make false promises to do this, as it will only Etiquette & Customs disappoint and cause future resentment. There are many simple rules of etiquette in Ne- pal, please see the “do’s and don’ts” in the general information section. However there are a couple of 4. ON TOUR good points which are worth noting. The left hand is considered unclean, therefore you should remember Safety to use your right hand for giving, receiving, shaking hands or eating (if there is no cutlery). You should Most people find that Nepal is a very friendly and also note that public displays of affection (such as hospitable country and feel quite comfortable wan- kissing and holding hands) are generally not accept- dering around alone during the day. As with any able even though you will see Nepali men holding place, your attitude determines how you are treated hands (this is a sign of friendship or ‘brotherliness’ by locals, so be friendly and respectful and you will rather than sexuality). You should also avoid point- be treated the same way. As with any country you ing the soles of your feet at anyone. This may seem are not familiar with (and particularly in larger cities unlikely to happen but you could inadvertently do such as Kathmandu and Pokhara), it is recommended this while laying down or sitting with your feet up. that you exercise more caution at night and gener- Also avoid pointing and touching people with your ally take taxis rather than walk, especially if you are feet. On the other hand, it is completely acceptable a lone female (it is not recommended for anyone to to pick your nose, hark and spit! walk alone at night).

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Although there have been conflicts in the past be- tween the Maoists and the government this rarely infringed on major tourist routes/areas. These days general strikes that affect transport and shops are sometimes a problem, but nothing like it was a few years ago. We keep abreast of the current situation and ensure you are only travelling through areas that are safe. The political situation has been peaceful since 2006 so the old worries about political tension are no longer a concern. Your government will run a travel advice website and you may like to check the situation there. Please bear in mind that Nepal is a developing coun- Timekeeping try and you may not find the comforts you are used to – this is more than made up for by the experiences It is worth remembering that Nepal’s relaxed at- you will have and the amazing things you will see titudes to time and efficiency ensure that schedules and learn! do not always function like clockwork, so please don’t expect them to. With people’s new found sense While Kathmandu has some truly world class hotels of democracy has come an increase in the number and there are some very good hotels in Pokhara, of strikes to make different issues heard – we try to once you get outside these bigger cities, you will keep abreast of what is coming up, but a spontane- find that the accommodation tends to be basic. You ous strike can still take us by surprise and hold us up can certainly find charming, clean and comfortable, for a while. Keep your sense of humour handy and but please don’t expect to find luxury accommoda- be patient should things not go as planned, you are tion once you’re outside Kathmandu and Pokhara! witnessing the building of a new democracy. Nepali people are used to waiting and are often amused at In the National Park areas you will generally only the impatience of tourists – it’s all part of the experi- find either rather soulless concrete buildings (al- ence. We have had some people say that they have though they can be VERY colourful!) or rustic safari learned as much from their observations while wait- style lodges. The safari lodges are generally more ing for an hour or so at a roadside strike, as from the expensive and they go to some effort to recreate a rest of the trip! traditional feel but with some modern comforts.

Accommodation They borrow heavily from the style of the local Tharu people’s mud houses with thatch roofing and Our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness painted motifs. The ones located inside the park are and accommodation can vary from a 5 star hotel in the most expensive as you pay for the location (the Kathmandu, to a family run guesthouse in a smaller rents are high for the lodge owners to operate in- town, to tea houses in the mountains or camping. side the park) and have the huge advantage of being away from the bustle of the tourist towns outside the If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a park! It’s good to remember that the climate in the room with another group member of the same gender is damp to say the least – it is very hard to find (unless you have paid a single supplement). If you anywhere to stay that does not have a faint smell of are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot damp! guarantee the availability of double beds.

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In the hills, if you are not camping, you can stay in as ginger, garlic, coriander, pepper, cumin, chilies, tea-houses where these are available. These will be cilantro, mustard oil, ghee and occasionally yak but- people’s houses that they have adjusted for home ter. stays, or they will be built for the purpose of housing tourists. Generally they will be basic and attached bathrooms and hot water should be considered a lux- ury not a right. While many places in the more well to do trekking areas now have solar hot water heaters (we suggest you shower at night, don’t expect the water to still be hot in the morning!), if they don’t have these then they either burn wood or kerosene to heat your water. This makes it either environmental- ly unsound (deforestation) or expensive (they have to carry all their supplies up the same trails you walk up!) – so, go easy on the lodge owners if they can’t promise you hot water. The national dish is dal-baat. Dal is a lentil sauce, Guides baat is rice. The dish is in fact rarely as simple as this however as it invariably comes with a number Our guides speak English but it is not their first of different side dishes, such as achar (pickle), curd language, so some pronunciation, grammar and use (yoghurt), and usually vegetable curries.Here are just of words will be a little bit different. This is well a few more mouth-watering dishes you might find on outweighed by the fact that they can tell you so a Nepali menu: much about the fascinating cultures and nature of the area, from the local perspective! We can also pro- * Momos – These are Tibetan dumplings made with vide guides who speak other languages than English vegetables or meat, found on many menus. and can provide Western guides also for that extra * Gundrook- Dheedo - Equally popular among special attention and insight from a different per- Nepali people and foreign tourists. It is a sugar- spective. free nutritious dish made of wheat, maize and dried green vegetable. Laundry * Alu Tama - simply means ‘Potato Bamboo Shoots’. It is a unique and classic Nepali curry An inexpensive laundry service is available in most flavor dish. of the hotels we are use (especially in cities and siz- * Vegetable Pulao (Fried Nepali Rice) - It has able towns). flavors of turmeric and cumin to it. * Masu - Spiced or curried meat (usually chicken, Local Food & Drink mutton, buffalo or pork) with gravy. Served with rice, it is a very popular main course. Food * Vegetable Thukpa (Egg Noodles) - This is a The food of Nepal is as diverse as the country itself. seasonal dish. During Tibetan new year celebra- The Nepalese recipes are quick to cook and good tion ‘Losar’, the dish is a part of celebration and to eat. Nepalese food is famous for its nutrition tradition for the Nepalese. level and tempting taste. Whilst is * Chatamari - Regarded as Nepali pizza, Chatamari somewhat basic, it certainly does not lack in flavor, is a flat bread made from rice flour with or without making extensive use of spices and flavorings such toppings (meat, vegetables, eggs, sugar).

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You will be astonished by the huge variety of inter- water and there is always some risk in drinking it. national dishes (such as Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Mexican, Italian, Middle Eastern) available in Kath- Tea is available everywhere. Hotels usually serve mandu and Pokhara. Likewise you will also often be tea western style, i.e. with milk and sugar separately. able to find steak on the menu – although you will You should definitely try Nepali tea at tea house! generally not be eating beef (except in some restau- It is hot, milky, sweet and served in a small glass, rants in Kathmandu where they import beef). Water almost always with a captivating smile! buffalo (or buff as it is called!) is the usual substitute for beef and is actually quite tasty – if a little chewy. Major international brands of soft drinks are read- ily available, as well as local brands and fresh fruit Please be aware though that sanitation standards are juice. A local drink found on every menu is Lassi, not always as you’d expect and it’s very easy to get this is yoghurt based and can be salted, sweetened or very sick on appealing food. We will make restau- flavoured with a variety of fruits. rant recommendations and, if you are going out to the mountains, we urge you to do your experiment- ing after your trip, or you may not get to go. Out- side Kathmandu and Pokhara there is a very limited choice of food, so (except for the unique Newari food of Kathmandu) it’s often best to save eating heaps of local food until you’re out of the big towns, where you won’t get much else!

Those on camping tours will be amazed at the elabo- rate meals that your camp cook is able to produce from their very simple kitchen. Salads, fried chicken, pasta, vegetable curries, and even pizza and choco- Alcohol is widely available. Locally brewed beers late cakes! are good, and many international brands (e.g. Carls- berg, Tuborg) are brewed in Nepal too. Local spirits Drinks are also available and some of them are very good, The number-one rule is: be careful of the water, while some are pretty rough! Rakshi is a traditional, including ice. If you don’t know for certain that strong alcoholic drink, often brewed at home, and the water is safe, assume the worst and just don’t found in most villages. Watch out for the home- drink it. In urban centres you can drink boiled water, brewed alcoholic beverage known as “Chang”, bottled water, or you can treat water. In the country which has been known to upset the stomach of many and while trekking/biking, you should drink boiled a trekker! Tongba is a drink from the Limbu culture, water or treat it with water-purification tablets; as made from fermented millet and served in a spe- ‘mineral water’ bottles are not recycled. cial pot with boiling water poured over the grains, releasing a unique flavour. Many consume this drink Milk should be consumed with suspicion as it will during winter season, and it is also a favorite drink be unpasteurized in the countryside, although boiled among the tourists. milk is fine if it is kept hygienically. Soft drinks and beer are always available wherever there is a shop, Imported wines are available but can be expensive and these are always safe to drink, as is tea, since the and the quality varies from bottle to bottle depending water has been boiled. Locally brewed beer, chang, on the transport and storage method they have been is another matter. It may be made with contaminated subjected to.

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Special Dietary Requirements iPods If you are bringing an iPod with you to Nepal, please Vegetarians note that the hard drives in many iPods are designed Nepal is a fantastic place for vegetarians! Much of to operate no higher than 3,000m/10,000 feet. Turn- the cuisine is vegetarian and you will often find a ing your iPod on at or above these altitudes can much better (and tastier) selection of vegetarian op- cause your iPod’s hard drive to malfunction perma- tions than meat dishes. nently. For further details please see http://www. apple.com/ipod-touch/specs.html Food Allergies If you have food allergies or preferences, please Local Transport make them known to us before your arrival and we will do our best to ensure that your requirements are You’ll probably find the best way to get around the met! centre of Nepal’s cities and towns is to walk. Even in Kathmandu a walk from Thamel (the hotel district Please note: Unfortunately we cannot guarantee that in the north) through the old city and Durbar Square all special requirements can always be met. down to where the city meets the river in the south will only take half an hour or so. For greater dis- Communications tances or when your legs get tired, taxis are almost always on hand and generally cost no more than a Email few dollars. In Kathmandu three wheeled ‘tempos’ Internet cafes can now be found in most cities and and cycle rickshaws are also available. sizable towns. Connection times can be slow al- though this does vary from place to place. The aver- Cycle rickshaws (a three wheeled cycle with a bench age cost for an hour varies between US$0.30 (Kath- seat at the back) usually take 1-2 people (depend- mandu) and US$1 (elsewhere). ing on how heavy you are) and are ideal for shorter journeys through the narrow streets of the old city. Phone It may seem wrong that people struggle to cycle The Nepali phone system is fairly good. Look out you around town for a few dollars, but the drivers for shops/booths labelled with a yellow “PCO-STD- greatly depend on the income that you can provide ISD” sign which can be found almost everywhere them with by going for a little ride. Do bargain when (except in remote areas). A 3 minute call (to the UK) taking rickshaws as it can be hard for locals to get a will cost approx. US$10 from a hotel and approx. rickshaw ride in tourist season because tourists pay US$5 from a shop/booth. There is no such thing as more than double the traditional fare, just ask in your international or pre paid phone cards in Nepal but hotel or your guide what you should pay. there are lots of internet shops from which you can make internet calls.

Post The postal service is fairly good and stamps are available everywhere. An overseas stamp will cost approx. US$0.25. Having said this, you can’t always expect your postcard to make it home, especially if posted from remote areas and we’d recommend car- rying rather than posting your purchases home.

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In Nepal taxi meters are for show only (unless you violins and woven cloth. For Western-style clothes, insist on using the meter which is encouraged) and cameras and other electronic equipment head for you will find yourself engaging in a bit of haggling New Road, the busy street leading up to Kath- with the driver to agree upon the fare you will pay. mandu’s Durbar Square. And remember, friendly This can be fun, but it’s a good idea to find out from bargaining is generally expected. You can get cheap the hotel staff approximately how much the fare tailor-made shirts, skirts, jackets etc, but it’s not a should be for the journey you propose. Generally bad idea to check the fabric before you commission you’ll have to accept that you will pay a bit more the job and the stitching before you pay. than the Nepalese do. It’s also a good idea to have change as drivers will often let you haggle a reason- You can get good trekking gear here, with great able price and then have no change! Nepali gear shops making their own brands (some won’t even bargain with you, they’re that good they Shopping can have set prices!) and there are now original Popular items include ‘tanka’ (religious) paintings western brands as well (eg North Face, selling last and Buddhist articles, such as prayer wheels and years stock, but at great prices). You can even get prayer flags. There are great clothes, jewellery and decent thermals and the smart wool shirts in Kath- craft items available and some really good Fair Trade mandu these days. shops opening up now. While it’s officially forbid- den to export precious stones, gold or silver, customs In general, it’s wise to carry, rather than mail, pack- officials don’t worry about jewellery – you will see ages home, unless you courier them many beautiful jewellery items for sale in the ba- zaars and you will not be stopped from taking these Shopping Hours: Sunday-Friday 10 am-7 pm. (Sat- as souvenirs out of the country. If you buy an antique urday is the ‘weekend’) or religious sculpture, check that you can get it out Banking Hours: Monday-Friday 9:30 am-3:30 pm. of the country, as some items (religious or cultural heritage) are not allowed out. There has been a busy trade over the years stripping temples etc, so this is 5. TRAVEL TIPS. an understandable precaution taken by the Nepali authorities. Do dress appropriately. Not only for the prevailing weather, but also not to cause offence. Please see the ‘what to bring/clothing’ section in this dossier.

Don’t wear anything made of leather into a Hindu temple. Be sure to take off your shoes before enter- ing a temple or someone’s house. Be sure to cover Check with your country’s quarantine regulations your arms and legs in a temple as Nepal has some before buying a beautiful article of wood etc as you of the most important Hindu and Buddhist shrines may have to leave it at the airport when you get anywhere! home! Do walk around stupas clockwise, so that the outer Other goods include bronze and copper items, shoul- walls are always on your right. If you encounter a der bags, knives, wooden masks and statues, silk stone wall covered with Tibetan inscriptions, do the handbags, colourful sweaters and jackets, camping same. gear, bamboo flutes, carpets, papier-mâché masks, Do not step over other people’s feet or any other Nepalese caps, block prints on rice paper, Nepalese part of their body. Don’t sit with your feet pointing

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at someone, especially toward a monk or lama - rassment for both parties. both practices are considered insulting. If you touch someone with your foot make sure you say sorry as Do take along a flashlight (preferably a head torch), it’s quite offensive. even if you’re not planning to trek. Power outages are quite frequent in the Kathmandu Valley. Do not offer food to a Nepalese person after hav- ing tasted it yourself as it is then considered impure. Do get a receipt of “in-authenticity” when purchas- Only offer food that has not been tasted or tried, or is ing an antique replica - otherwise, you will not be still ‘pure’. allowed to take it out of the country.

Do not use your left hand for eating, handling food Please note: These tips are meant to help you have a or shaking hands, as it’s traditionally used when go- great trip to Nepal, but don’t get too worried if you ing to the toilet. For the same reason, always present forget – Nepali people generally are very apprecia- or accept items with your right hand only. tive if they see you trying to abide by the customs, and very forgiving if you get it wrong or forget. Do be aware that cows are sacred in Nepal, as they Similarly it’s good to remember that some things are in India, and are allowed to wander about freely you see may offend or disgust you – eg animal sacri- and are not eaten! fices or spitting on the street – and be prepared to be as tolerant toward Nepali people as they are to you. Do ask permission before taking photos in temples and of people and respect their right to say no. If you If you have any other questions or concerns about have a digital camera why not show the subject their your visit to Nepal, please don’t hesitate to get in photo – this way they can enjoy the photo too. touch with us! You can also find more information on the travel tips and FAQs sections of our website: Begging. We recommend that you don’t give to chil- http://www.himalayan-trails.com/thing-to-know dren who ask for money or food. Although it is chal- http://www.himalayan-trails.com/faqs lenging and you may feel guilty if you don’t, please remember that successful begging can lead to chil- dren ending up on the streets. For genuine streetkids, who are already on the street, it reduces the ability of refuge programs to get them OFF the street. Instead of becoming part of the problem we encourage you to find a trustworthy refuge or orphanage and sup- port their efforts to provide these kids with a future.

Do carry some tissues/loo paper in your daypack on excursions from your base hotel. Many toilets, even the western style ones, don’t have toilet paper. You will see the bucket of water and dipper which is the prevalent method! If you use toilet paper it’s best to put it in the bin provided rather than flushing it down the toilet, as it will clog the plumbing; not nice!

Never lose your temper in public or when bargaining for a purchase. This is considered a serious embar-

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6. GENERAL INFORMATION the air is hazy, and the views, while good, aren’t the same as in autumn (if spring is the only time avail- Nepal Introduction able, it’s still worth going!). Nepal, a landlocked country, covers 140,800 sq km, making it roughly the size of the US state of Arkan- sas. There are few countries on Earth that can match its broad range of environments, from the world’s deepest canyon and eight of the world’s 10 highest mountains, to low-lying steamy jungles and terraced valleys laced with ancient villages, remote temples and wildlife preserves.

Geography of Nepal The country can be divided into three different re- gions: the north, which is covered by the Himalaya mountain range that includes the world’s tallest peak Mt. Everest, which rises to 8,848 m (29,000 ft); the central area, consisting of the relatively low Himala- If, however, you are more intrepid and want to yan foothills which are home to the capital Kathman- explore the Nepal that lives off the beaten trail, then du and a fascinating variety of cultural groups; and there is somewhere for you to trek in Nepal all the the south, which consists of vast plains and jungle year round. In spring and autumn you can trek basi- and is home to most of the country’s population. cally anywhere; in the monsoon you can trek in the rain shadow of the Himalayan Range; in winter you Weather can have delightful trekking in the culturally rich Weather in Nepal is not to be taken lightly. Even in mid-hills! If you’re going to Chitwan National Park midsummer, passes and high areas can be hit without warning by sudden snowstorms. You should always be aware that it can be very hot and humid for most be prepared for cold, wet or windy conditions, es- of the year, although from December to March it’s pecially if you’re out walking, hitching or trekking fantastic! The monsoons, which occur June-Septem- at high altitudes or even taking a long bus trip over ber, affect the whole country except for those areas mountains (particularly at night). in the rain shadow, and flooding is a strong possibil- ity in the Chitwan region. Nepal has a typical monsoonal, two-season year. The dry season runs from October to May and there’s the The following chart shows average daytime tem- wet (monsoon) season from June to September. peratures (in degrees Celsius);

If you’re going to Nepal for trekking, there are two J F M A M J J A S O N D main seasons: October-December and February- K 18 19 25 28 30 29 29 28 28 27 23 19 April. This is because the majority of trekkers come C 24 26 33 35 35 35 33 33 32 31 29 24 to visit the popular areas of and Everest and spring and autumn are the best times for these (K – Kathmandu, C – Chitwan) areas. Autumn is best, when the air has been washed clean by summer monsoons and the passes haven’t Please note that temperatures do drop much lower at yet been snowed in. The weather is brisk but not too high altitudes. cold. In spring, the alpine passes are open again, but

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Flora and fauna in Nepal Religions of Nepal Nepal’s splendid natural environment includes Hinduism and Buddhism constitute the two major everything from the icy alpine landscape of the high- religions of Nepal. A remarkable feature of this est mountain in the world, to the serene mid-hills, country is the religious tolerance and even blending to lush tropical jungles where elephants, rhinos and that exists between these, the main religious com- tigers still roam in their ancient forests. munities. The exquisite medieval art & architecture of the Kathmandu Valley vividly reflect the artistic ingenuity and religious tradition of the people. In many places you will see a Buddhist shrine or sacred symbols in a Hindu temple and vice versa. In the hills you will often find a blurring between Hindu- ism, Buddhism and the more ancient pagan religions of the hills. It’s fascinating!

Hinduism

Roughly 85% of the population are Hindu, worship- ing millions of gods and goddesses that make up the Hindu pantheon. Each god has His/Her own steed which is often seen kneeling faithfully at the feet of the deity or sometimes outside that god’s temple. Symbolic objects are carried by the multiple hands The Himalayan region is one of the world’s hotspots of each deity which empowers them to perform great in terms of biodiversity. With just over 0.1% of the feats. earths land surface occurring in Nepal, it supports globally known 4.2% butterflies (635 spp), 2.2 % of Buddhism fresh water fish species (185 spp), 1.1 % amphibians (43 spp.), 1.5% reptile (100 spp.), 8.5% of birds (860 Sakyamuni Buddha is the founder of Buddhism who spp.) and 4.2% mammals (181 spp). lived and taught in this part of the world during the sixth century BC after his birth at Lumbini in South- A total of 5,833 species of flowering plants and ern Nepal. The great stupas of Swayambhunath and 4,216 species of non-flowering plants have been re- Bouddanath are among the oldest and most beautiful corded so far in Nepal. 246 species of the total flow- worship sites in the Kathmandu Valley. With almost ering plants and 248 species of non-flowering plants 10% of Nepalese and all Tibetan refugees here fol- are reported to be endemic to this tiny country! lowing this religious path, the spinning of prayer wheels, prostrating pilgrims, collective chants and Home to an incredible 8.5% of the world’s birds, burning butter lamps are but some Buddhist prac- Nepal is a little known but incredibly rich location tices encountered by visitors. for bird watching. To-date about 860 bird species has been recorded from Nepal in the last 150 years. Festivals of Nepal Nepal is a land of many festivals with rich cultural The Koshi Tappu Nature Reserve, Shivapuri Nature heritage. More than 90% of Nepalese festivals have Reserve, Chitwan National Park, Bardia National their origin in the religious practises of the many dif- Park and many more incredibly bird rich sites wait ferent ethnic groups that live here. Such is the diver- for you to discover them. sity of these groups and there are so many festivals,

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that you can often see one happening and ask a local May person what it is for and they can only tell you which Buddha Jayanti: Celebrated on the full moon day, cultural group has the festival, but not what it is for. the Lord’s Buddha’s birth and enlightenment are ap- plauded throughout the Valley with celebrations for This diversity can also be seen in the fact that the Buddha Jayanti. Swayambhu and Bouddanath Stu- country has a range of calendars; including two solar pas are prepared for the oncoming festivities. People calendars and three lunar ones making it difficult reach the stupas before dawn, walk around them and to predict many of the religious festival dates! The give offerings to the many Buddha images. official Nepali calendar is 365 days, but is 57 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar. Religious festivals Bhoto Jatra: This is the biggest cultural event at the follow the lunar calendar, while national festivals city of Patan. The wheeled chariot of a deity known have fixed dates. Some of the major festivals are: as Red Machchhendranath is pulled through the city of Patan. February Lhosar: Sherpas organize folk songs and dances on July this occasion. These dances can be seen in Khumbu, Dumji: Is celebrated in all Sherpa settlements with Helambu and other northern regions of Nepal and dancing being the main form of festivity. also at Bouddanath in Kathmandu. Gaijatra (cow festival): Is a carnival that lasts eight Maha Shivaratri: or the ‘Night of Lord Shiva’ is days. Dancing, singing, comedy and anything that observed in February-March. A great religious fair causes mirth and laughter are its highlights. takes place in the Pashupatinath Temple and thou- sands of people from all over Nepal and India flock August the temple to worship Lord Shiva. Indrajatra: One of the most important festivals for April people of Kathmandu. The festival lasts for eight New Year’s Day: The Nepalese New Year’s Day days with the chariot of Kumari, the Living God- usually falls during the month of April. The day is dess, being taken out in procession through the main observed as a national holiday with people celebrat- streets of Kathmandu. The festival is specially noted ing with great enthusiasm. for the echoes of drums and dancing feet of the masked dancers every evening. Ghodejatra: Known as the festival of horses this is one of the most exciting festivals of Kathmandu. September Horse race and other sports take place at Tundikhel or Durga Puja: This is Nepal’s most impor- on this day. In other parts of the city various deities tant and longest festival. For many Nepalese, Das- are carried shoulder-high on palanquin (khat) with hain is a season to dress and eat well and visit with the accompaniment of traditional music. loved ones. According to legend, the bloodthirsty Goddess Durga conquered evils on the Dashain day. A huge number of animal sacrifices take place dur- ing the festival in temples and in homes to please the Goddess Durga. The final day of the festival is known as `Tika’.

October-November (Deepawali): is the year’s most beautiful fes- tival with people putting lights all over their houses

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and shops to lure ‘Laxmi’, the goddess of wealth. Ages’ followed, but Kathmandu Valley’s strategic Tihar is celebrated for five days. Houses are illumi- location ensured the kingdom’s survival and growth. nated at night and special sweets of different variet- ies are prepared for the festival. Newari New Year’s Several centuries later the Thakuri king, Arideva, Day falls on the fourth day of Tihar and is celebrated founded the Malla Dynasty, kick-starting another with great enthusiasm. renaissance of Nepali culture. Despite earthquakes, the odd invasion and feuding between the indepen- dent city-states of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, the dynasty flourished, reaching its zenith in the 15th century under Yaksha Malla.

The 14th century Malla ruler Jayasthiti Malla is credited with the ‘sanskritisation’ of the unique Newar society of the Kathmandu Valley, ie organis- ing the Newar community into a form of the caste system, interesting because some Newars are Bud- dhist, some are Hindu and many follow a blend of both religions!

Nepal, as we know it now, was ‘unified’ when Prithvi Naryan Shah of Gorkha launched a cam- paign to conquer the Kathmandu Valley and gain the wealth of the Malla Kings. In 1768, after 27 years of fighting, he triumphed and moved the capital A Brief to Kathmandu. From this new base the kingdom’s power expanded, borne by a seemingly unstoppable Nepal’s recorded history began with the Kiratis, who army, until progress was halted in 1792 by a brief arrived in the 7th century BC from the east. Little is and chastening war with Tibet. known about them, other than their deftness as sheep farmers and fondness for carrying long knives. It Further hostilities followed in 1814, this time with was during this period that Buddhism first came to the British over a territorial dispute. The Nepalese the country; it is claimed that Buddha and his disci- were eventually forced to call it quits and signed the ple Ananda visited the Kathmandu Valley and stayed 1816 Sugauli Treaty, which surrendered Sikkim and for a time in Patan. most of the Terai (some of the land was eventually restored in return for Nepalese help in quelling the By 200 AD, Buddhism had waned and was replaced Indian Mutiny of 1857), established Nepal’s present by Hinduism, brought by the Licchavis, who invaded eastern and western boundaries, and installed a Brit- from northern India and overthrew the last Kirati ish ‘resident’ in the country. This period of fighting king. The Hindu Licchavis also introduced the caste firmly established the reputation of the famed Ghur- system (which still continues today) and ushered in a kha soldiers. The income earned by these soldiers is classical age of Nepalese art and architecture. still an important part of Nepal’s economy as they serve all over the globe. By 879, the era had petered out and was succeeded by the Thakuri dynasty. A grim period of The continued in power during the first instability and invasion often referred to as the ‘Dark half of the 19th century until the grisly Kot Massacre

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of 1846. Taking advantage of the intrigue and assas- sinations that had plagued the ruling family, Jung Bahadur seized control by butchering several hun- dred of the most important men while they assem- bled in the Kot courtyard. He took the more presti- gious title Rana, proclaimed himself prime minister for life and later made the office hereditary.

For the next century the Ranas and their offspring built many luxurious palaces after the Colonial style that still dot the landscape, while banning education and ensuring that the remainder of the population eked out a living in medieval conditions.

The Rana’s regime came to an end soon after WWII. In 1948 the British withdrew from India and with them went the Rana’s chief support. Around the same time a host of insurrectional movements bent on reshaping the country’s polity emerged. Sporadic fighting spilled onto the streets and the Ranas, at the behest of India, reluctantly agreed to negotia- invited the opposition to form an interim govern- tions. King Tribhuvan was anointed ruler in 1951 ment. The system was finally laid to rest. and struck up a government comprised of Ranas and members of the newly formed The changeover to democracy proceeded in an Party. But the compromise was short-lived. orderly, and leisurely fashion, and in May 1991 the Nepali Congress Party and the Communist Party of After toying with democratic elections - and feeling Nepal shared most of the votes. Since then Nepal has none too pleased by the result, King Mahendra (Trib- discovered that establishing a workable democratic huvan’s son and successor) decided that a partyless system is an enormously difficult task. The situa- ‘panchayat’ system would be more appropriate. The tion has been further exacerbated by a wafer-thin king selected the prime minister, cabinet and ap- economy, massive unemployment, illiteracy and an pointed a large proportion of the national assembly, ethnically and religiously fragmented population that which duly rubber-stamped his policies. Power, of continues to grow at an alarming rate. course, remained with only one party - the King. Cronyism, corruption and the creaming-off of lucra- The fractured political landscape in Nepal was torn tive foreign aid into royal coffers continued until apart in June 2001 with the massacre of most of the 1989. The Nepalese, fed up with years of hardship royal family, including the much loved King Biren- and suffering under a crippling trade embargo im- dra, by Crown Prince Dipendra. Civil strife erupted posed by the Indians, rose up in popular protest again in Kathmandu with a curfew imposed to quell street violence. Prince Gyanendra, the brother of called the Jana Andolan or ‘People’s Movement’. In King Birendra, ascended to the throne and had to the ensuing months, detention, torture and violent face many challenges, in particular the Maoist rebel- clashes left hundreds of people dead. It all proved lion against the government which came out in force too much for King Birendra, leader since 1972. He from the underground in 1996. Numerous peace dissolved his cabinet, legalised political parties and talks and ceasefires failed to hold.

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Useful Phrases in Nepali

Hello - Namaste (Nam-mas-tay) Goodbye - Namaste How are you? - Tapaailai kasto chha I’m fine thanks - Sanchaicha Please – Dinuhos or just dinus Thank you - Dhanyabad Yes – Chhaa In May 2006 Nepal’s political landscape again No - Chhaina changed dramatically with King Gyanendra surren- Excuse me - Hajur dering absolute power, reinstating parliament, and How much? - Kati? agreeing to the writing of a new constitution. This allowed a ceasefire agreement to be reached with the Nepali Numbers Maoists and Nepal finally had its first election since 1999 in May 2008, when the Maoist rebels won the 1 ek majority of the votes in what independent observ- 2 dui 11 egyara ers called a fair election. While the fairness of the 3 teen 12 bara election will remain doubtful, the result was that the 4 char 13 tera Maoists continued their disarmament and became 5 panch 20 bis part of the political system. 6 chha 30 tis 7 saat 40 chalis A joint Constitutional Assembly formed from the 8 aath 50 pchas major parties is charged with rewriting the constitu- 9 nau 100 sau tion before the next elections can be held. The for- 10 das 1000 hazar mer Maoist leaders “Prachanda” and Dr Babburam Bhattarai became the Prime Minister and Finance Minister respectively, with other posts made up of former Maoists and the other major parties. In May 2009 the Prime Minister resigned and the Maoists went into opposition as the United Marxist-Leninist Party headman took up the post of Prime Minister. The parties are now working towards the New Con- stitution.

There is of course a lot of cynicism amongst Nepali people about their political system and current situa- tion and the new democracy is being exercised with occasional demonstrations and strikes. There is also, however, the possibility of hope, generally summed up by the idea that at least the country isn’t in war anymore and we’ll see what happens next. This is the opportunity for Nepali people to get on with their lives now there is no longer civil war and try to rebuild their lives.

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