Bound for Sacramento; Travel-Pictures of a Returned Wanderer, Translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, Introduction by Henry R
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Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R. Wagner Bound for Sacramento Carl Meyer Bound for Sacramento Travel-Pictures of a returned wanderer translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe Introduction by Henry R. Wagner Saunders Studio Press Claremont, California 1938 COPYRIGHT 1938 BY THE SAUNDERS STUDIO PRESS PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA This first edition is limited to 450 copies Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R. Wagner http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.083 which this is copy Number 75 The Saunders Studio Press wishes to thank Mr. Phil Townsend Hanna, who has so graciously given his permission to reprint the three chapters of this translation that appeared in Touring Topics, in the June, July, and October numbers of 1932, in order to make available the entire text; Mr. Henry R. Wagner for calling our attention to its merits and for his fine introduction and finally, the Huntington Library for permission to use photostats of the original in its collection. LINDLEY BYNUM, editor. VII Table of Contents Introduction IX On the Ocean! 1 I On to the Isthmus of Panama 7 II On to California 38 III On to the St. Joaquin 57 IV On to the Southern Gold Mines 86 V On to San Francisco 114 VI On to North of Upper-California 146 VII On to the Klamath Region 182 VIII On to New Helvetia 213 IX On to Nicaragua and Home! 241 Notes 271 The following insert shows the page size of the original edition; the illustrations on the front and back of the paper covers; and the original title page. Since the color of the cover stock was found not to be uniform, no attempt has been made to reproduce it. IX Introduction Nach dem Sacramento, the title under which Carl Meyer published this book in German in Aarau, in 1855, is not a journal but a series of word pictures—travel pictures in one place he calls them, a much more appropriate title for the book than the one he chose. Aarau is a small town in Switzerland in one of the German cantons, and Meyer himself was obviously a German Swiss. The book gives every evidence of having been written by a highly educated man, possibly from some Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R. Wagner http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.083 German university. He had a good knowledge of contemporary German literature, especially of Schiller, from whom he quotes frequently, and also of botany and natural history. From remarks about mines it seems possible that he may have been a mining engineer. Why he came to the United States or ultimately to California he does not state, but, as he seemed to be sufficiently supplied with funds, it was probably curiosity, or, as he expresses it in several places, a desire to see the world. Before leaving New Orleans for California he had done some traveling in the eastern United States. There is no evidence that he was a gold-seeker, although he did, on one occasion, try his hand at mining. In fact, he may have done more X mining than he discloses. His great interest, however, lay elsewhere. In general, his movements through California can be fairly well traced, but there is no particular sequence assigned to them and there are a number of erroneous statements about occurrences of one kind and another, about which we have definite information from other sources. This leads us to suspect that the book was written not from a journal but from memory. This was, at times, sadly at fault. For example, in his very first chapter he tells us that he left New Orleans at the beginning of February, 1850. He meant, 1849. Much later in the book he tells us that he went from Stockton to San Francisco in the spring of 1850, after having passed the winter at the Mariposa mines. Furthermore, we have his statement that while he was at Alisal, W. E. Hartnell's ranch near Salinas, the youngest child was baptized. Hartnell's youngest child, Arnulfo Benjamin, was born July 18, 1849. According to the custom in vogue in the country baptism must have taken place very shortly thereafter. It is to be presumed, therefore, that he reached Monterey on the Sarah Elisa some time in the early part of July. He probably remained at Alisal for some little time, as Mr. Hartnell was very hospitable, and had received part of his education in Germany. Hartnell was no doubt highly pleased with the opportunity to discuss Old World affairs with a cultivated man who spoke German. A study of the book leads me to suggest as most probable the following itinerary. After leaving Alisal he proceeded by way of San Juan Bautista and Pacheco Pass to the San Joaquin late in the summer, as he tells us that the fruit was ripe on the trees at the San Juan Bautista mission. He spent the winter at the XI Mariposa mines, where, as he expressed it, he and his friend, Whitfield, had a taste of mining life. The next year, no doubt early in the spring, he left Mariposa and proceeded to Stockton. From here he took a steamboat to San Francisco where he apparently arrived shortly after the May fire. From this time on his movements are somewhat Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R. Wagner http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.083 uncertain, but he must have remained in San Francisco until the early part of 1851. He witnessed the blowing up of the Sagamore, October 29, 1850, although he says that it occurred early in 1851. About the end of the year, probably in January, 1851, he departed for the Trinidad country, as the gold discoveries had brought about a tremendous rush to that section and he said he was glad to grasp an opportunity for a new bit of travel. He remained there but a short time, however, mostly engaged in investigating the Indians whom he calls the Allequas. These were the Yurok Indians, Allequa being a corruption of Alikwa, which in turn is a corruption of Olekwo'l, their name for themselves. He journeyed as far as the Trinity River, but was soon back in San Francisco. He tells us that he spent ten months in Sacramento; at any rate he spent part of that ten months there as he must have been back in San Francisco at least in October. From Sacramento he made a trip to Mormon Island and some of the camps farther north and early in 1852 decided to leave the country. He sailed on the North America, one of the Vanderbilt Line steamers, crossed the Nicaragua Isthmus and reached New York on the Prometheus. Much of the book is devoted to philosophizing both on man and on natural phenomena. Many of the author's theories are antiquated but the book throws a fresh light, and one from a XII new angle, on the California of the days of the Gold Rush. Meyer saw many things that other writers did not see, or at least did not notice, and some of these, such as his graphic description of a Mexican caravan from Sonora, will not be found elsewhere. For this reason the translation is a distinct addition to the literature of the period. HENRY R. WAGNER Bound for Sacramento (Nach dem Sacramento) Dedicated to Mr. Heinrich Kurz Doctor of Philosophy, Professor of German language and literature in the trade school, canton librarian of Aarau, member of the German Society of Berlin, and member of several other learned societies. Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R. Wagner http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.083 I feel justified in taking the liberty of prefixing your honored name to these modest leaves of travel pictures because of the enduring memories of my youth with which your name is inseparably bound up. I had the good fortune to spend my last school year under your careful direction, from which sprang much that was beautiful and useful in later years. Permit me to express publicly my sincerest thanks for this and all your other favors and to assure you of my faithful respect. Your devoted student and friend, Carl Meyer Basle, Palm Sunday 1855. On the Ocean! Traveling is living and living is traveling We travel and are like the plants in the earth Each year with their new green covering. When traveling, to refresh the spirit comes mirth The gay muses in dancing rows, hovering, Promise us heaven on earth. Yes, living is traveling and traveling is living The traveler floats above the earthly sphere He learns to empty the beaker of pain and is willing And if he must enter Hell today, never fear, Some future day will bring courage and will be giving Strength to strive against need and danger. ONLY a traveler can be a good critic of the Great Book of the World. The most varied pictures float before his eyes and mind until he has comprehended the whole universe, not only all its glory but also all its deficiencies and defects. Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R.