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JANUARY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

WHERE COAST&ISLANDS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

THE ‘RED GOLD’ The fascinating history of coral EPIPHANY IN NAPLES Between sacred and profane ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MUSEUMS&ATTRACTIONS Client - McAG Type Area - N/G Initials - GR Outlet - La Reggia Bleed - 3 mm Scale - 100 Ad Type - Press Date - 19–12–2016 Effective DPI - 300 Publication - Where Naples File Name - GL1185_12_AW16_LaReggia_Press_WhereNaples_207x277mm_AW2 Size - 207x277mm 01.17 CONTENTS

The Plan The Guide Let's get started The best of Naples, Coast & Islands 2 Editor’s Note 30

4 Hot Dates 16 SHOPPING The hottest dates in January Major shopping areas and our to make your stay in Naples an unforgettable experience choice of the best specialty stores

24 DINING

Top restaurants and pizzerias recommended by Where

30 ENTERTAINMENT

How to enjoy your stay in 9 Sightseeing Naples and on the Coast & Islands ‘Born in Naples’ Annapatrizia Settembre’s solo exhibition. In partnership with Where Naples 35 MUSEUMS & 10 ATTRACTIONS Also inside Main museum attractions and must-see exhibitions in the city 48 Fashion Outlet and on the Coast & Islands outlet suggested by Where. Shopping. A complete 35 shopping, entertainment and 43 ESSENTIALS relax experience Tips for getting around in Naples, , , Oplonti and on the Coast&Islands

MAP PAGE 44

ON THE COVER Table taken from 'Agata Where Now Smeralda'. Text and illustrations by Letizia 3 NAPLES HOW YOU SAW IT… IN 14 NEAPOLITAN Galli, Editor Franco Cosimo 2016 A journey through Neapolitan Tripadvisor’s ranking of the most culture, entirely built on flavors. visited sites of the city Interview with Luciano Pignataro STAY IN TOUCH 10 THE FASCINATING WORLD OF 40 IN NAPLES IT’S BEFANA TIME! www.wherenaples.com ‘RED GOLD’ A journey between sacred and Like us on The history of coral told by someone profane to discover one of the main facebook.com/wherenaples who has made it a reason of living Christian holidays www.pressreader.com

SEGNI DI LUCE, PH_ANDREA ESPOSITO Digital magazines

wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples, Coast&Islands! www.wheretraveler.com 1 WELCOME | Naples, Coast & Islands [ SIGTHSEEING] WHERE NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

WHERE Naples how you saw it...in 2016 SERENA ALTIERI

Publisher and Editor-in-chief NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS published by: Tripadvisor’s ranking of the most visited sites of the city in 2016 IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL Via Agostino Depretis, 51 80133 Napoli T/Fax: 081 6174239 www.wherenaples.com DI

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Serena Altieri ([email protected])

EDITORIAL (IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

EDITORIAL COORDINATION COMUNE DI Ilaria Puglia ([email protected])

EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT Nina Jean Sbrizzi CAPPELLA SANSEVERO MUSEUM. Built CARACCIOLO WATERFRONT. The long SAN CARLO THEATRE. The oldest Opera by the Sansevero princes, it hosts the Cristo an wide promenade with views of Mount House in Europe. One of Naples’s crown HAPPY NEW YEAR AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS IN NAPLES AND CAMPANIA! DESIGNER Velato, a wonderful sculpture known all over Vesuvius, which hosts, in the centre of Diaz jewels Elizabeth Jeanette Deleacaes the world. www.museosansevero.it square, the installation NAlbero. www.teatrosancarlo.it An excellent choice to spend your Christmas holidays in Naples, a riot of CONTRIBUTING WRITERS/EDITORS fireworks: these are used mostly to propitiate the new year, leaving the hard Ilaria Puglia work of the past year behind. Today, like yesterday, the energy and the hope HOTEL PR SERVICES of Neapolitans are all superstitiously concentrated in two rituals: setting Valeria Fusco ([email protected]) off fireworks, and getting rid of old things, which reach their climax on the evening of the 31st, donating to all tourists around the world a wonderful PRINTED BY OFFICINE GRAFICHE FRANCESCO GIANNINI & FIGLI S.P.A. firework show set in the beautiful surrounding frame of the . via Cisterna dell'Olio 6/B - 80134 Napoli This year, the promenade will be dominated by NAlbero, an engineering www.gianninispa.it creation which looks like a huge Christmas tree, a metal fir tree that stands REG.TRIB. NAPOLI No. 7, 7 FEBRUARY 2014 on the seafront, 45 meters high and illuminates it with 1,300,000 LED lamps. WHERE NAPLES IS DISTRIBUTED FREE AT TOP Symbol of Christmas in Naples and synthesis of the city, very modern while HOTELS AND AT SEVERAL SELECT LOCATIONS. strongly tied to tradition, the installation will be set up until March 2017. It is Where® is also published in by Where Italia SAINT GENNARO’S CATACOMBS. The SAN GREGORIO ARMENO. The street of the NAPLES UNDERGROUND. For a visit in srl and in by Tourist Media srl most important in Southern in size and crib figurines, where it’s Christmas all year the city’s womb. Many rich itineraries of worth it to take a tour, for an aperitif, for dinner with a historical value around. In the heart of the city’s historical fascinating and indescribable beauty spectacular view or simply MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS www.catacombedinapoli.it center. www.napolisotterranea.org to enjoy one of the most MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN beautiful sceneries in the William S. Morris III world and take photos of PRESIDENT AND CEO William S. Morris IV this fantastic holiday in MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Naples.! Chris Manning

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or However, before omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in visiting the city, don't part is strictly prohibited. On account of not being able to source the authors of the photos published, our forget to ask your publishing company is at the disposition of anyone wishing to contact it. concierge for our City COMING SOON Map. Where Urban Interactive Those of you wishing to publish your The first touchless favourite photo of Naples should write SANTA CHIARA. It includes a church, a GESÙ NUOVO. Magnificent frescoes but also ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK PAUSILYPON. to us either at guide for travelers monastery and a convent. Do not miss the many sculptures and a beautiful multicolored It is accessible through a Roman tunnel. A [email protected] or on facebook.com/wherenaples wonderful cloister floor. Piazza del Gesù. journey between land and sea on the hill of and we’ll publish it. www.monasterodisantachiara.org . wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples

2 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 3 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JANUARY HOT DATES The hottest dates in January chosen by Where® to make your stay in Naples and on the Coast and Islands a truly unforgettable experience

UNTIL TUESDAY SIGNS OF LIGHT Solo exhibition by Claudia Meyer promoted by the cultural Institution Art1307 and organized 3 by Cynthia Penna. Of Swiss origin, Claudia Meyer lives and works in Lucerne, Paris and , three cities that have deeply influenced her way of expressing herself and communicating. Her artistic production envelops the viewer in a sensory crescendo, almost as if her art were music. An evocative use of light which illuminates the scene directing the viewer’s eye only towards certain focal points.

Villa Di Donato. Piazza S. Eframo Vecchio, Naples. T: 081665456 www.claudiameyer.com PH_ANDREA ESPOSITO

4 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

TUESDAY WHAT'S ON SPORT FOOTBALL Italian Championship A Series Napoli vs Sampdoria> 8 January Napoli vs Pescara > 15 January Napoli vs Palermo > 29 January Tim Cup 2016-2017 Napoli vs Spezia> 11 Ja . Piazzale Tecchio, Napoli. T: 0812395623 www.sscnapoli.it BASKETBALL National Basketball League B Series Cuore Napoli Basket vs Asd Luiss Roma > 8 January GIOVANNI BLOCK IN Cuore Napoli Basket vs MecSan Maddaloni > 15 January CONCERT Cuore Napoli Basket vs Balletti Park Hotel Viterbo 19 ▲ Born in 1984 and winner of > 29 January numerous awards including, in 2008, the PalaBarbuto. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. plaque Tenco for Best emerging author, T: 0817622198 Block presents his first album in Neapolitan, www.legapallacanestro.com resulting from a long period of research in WATER POLO A1 Series the Neapolitan underground world aimed UNTIL SUNDAY Carpisa Yamamay Acquachiara vs C.N. Posillipo >14 at establishing a link between ancient and January modern. The work presents collaborations INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE WALL C.N. Posillipo vs Pallanuoto Trieste > 21January with some of the best artists from the Carpisa Yamamay Acquachiara vs Roma Vis Nova Pn ▲ Double solo exhibition by Vincenzo Frattini and Viviana Valla, two emerging Neapolitan independent scenario. > 21 January artists who are already known in the contemporary art world. Drawing their C.C. Napoli vs Pro Recco N e Pn > 28 January roots from analytical painting and from geometrical abstract painting, the Piscina Scandone. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. Teatro Bellini. Via Conte di Ruvo, 14, Naples. 8 UNTIL SATURDAY works of the two artists reach a perfect balance of colors in simple compositions by using T: 0815702636 T: 0815491266 www.teatrobellini.it unconventional materials and means. www.federnuoto.it MADE IN CULTURE Galleria Nicola Pedana Arte Contemporanea. Piazza Matteotti, 60, Caserta. T: 3926793401 ▲ Art promotes art. Sponsored by the Cultural Prize Elsa Morante, the exhibition, SATURDAY AND SUNDAY www.nicolapedana.com organized by Tjuna Notarbartolo, displays the strong color paintings of the 7 German-Italian artist Mariella Ridda next to the harsh religious sculptures of the architect Mario Cicalese. A stimulating contrast between fire and earth.

Arena Flegrea. Via John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 54, Naples. T: 0817258000 www.arenaflegrea.com

UNTIL SATURDAY

UNTIL SATURDAY 7 MARVELS AND LUCIO DEL PEZZO. PARADOXES. THE ARTWORK FROM THE 60S. ASTONISHMENT OF DESIGN NAPLES ▲ An exhibition in which the main characters 7 ◄ A small anthology with which Lucio are six large busts created by assembling Del Pezzo marks his return to Naples after fifteen small recycled plastic objects. The creators years. Organized by Andrea Ingenito and Piero of these enigmatic creatures are the director DANIEL OREN Mascitti, in collaboration with the Marconi Andrea Barzini and the architect Silvio ▲ Daniel Oren conducts UNTIL TUESDAY12 Foundation in Milan, the exhibition presents Pasquarelli who intend to stimulate critical 7-8 Enrico Dindo on cello. about twenty works of art dating back to the reflection on contemporary society and its The program includes: sixties, including collages, acrylics, tempera voracious consumption patterns. The short Antonin Dvorak, Concert for Cello and WAITING FOR paintings and a 250 cm tall monumental film made by the two artists called: "I prefer Orchestra No. 2 in B minor, op. 104; Johannes ▲ Solo exhibition by the artist Michele Iodice, part of the touring exhibition called “O.O. sculpture in wood. astonishment" is part of the exhibition. Brahms, Symphony no. 2 in D major for Parts / Out of Place Artifacts” presented in Capri this past July. On display a selection of From Tuesday to Saturday, 11am to 7pm. Mondays through Fridays from 10am to 1pm orchestra, op. 73. of San Carlo Theatre pieces from the collection and an anthology of eclectic design works by the artist, while Closed on Sundays and Mondays. Free entry. and from 3pm to 6pm; Saturdays from 10am Orchestra. waiting for the outdoor exhibition to be held at the Mann, the Archaeological Museum of to 1pm Naples. The exhibition is sponsored by the Caprense Center. AICA, Andrea Ingenito Contemporary Art. Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. Via Cappella Vecchia, 8/A (P.zza dei Martiri), Fondazione Plart. Via Giuseppe Martucci, 48,

T: 0817972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it Intragallery. Via Cavallerizza a , 57, Naples. T: 081415702 www.intragallery.it FOR, PH_GIUSEPPE SALVIATI WAITING Naples. T: 0810490829 www.ai-ca.com Naples www.fondazioneplart.com

6 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 7 Search the full Calendar at wherenaples.com WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JANUARY SIGHTSEEING

ART: Signs of Light. Solo exhibition by Claudia SAN PAOLO, TEMPLE OF FOOTBALL 1 Meyer. Villa Di Donato, Naples Opened in 1959, it is the third largest stadium ART: Made in culture. Mariella Ridda and in Italy after the Meazza Stadium in Milan and 2 Marco Cicalese. Arena Flegrea, Naples the Olimpico in Rome. The pitch measures BORN IN NAPLES 110 metres by 68 and the stadium is located BALLET: The Nuteracker. Teatro San Carlo, Naples in the district. A legend of Italian 3 football, the stadium was restructured for the ART: Marvels and paradoxes. Fondazione 1990 World Cup. The football season runs 4 Plart, Naples from September to May with a short break for ART: Inside and outside the wall. Nicola Christmas. 5 Pedana Arte Contemporanea, Caserta Piazzale Tecchio. T: 081.2395623 FAIRS: Great Feast of Epiphany. Città della 6 Scienza, Naples ART: Lucio Del Pezzo. Artwork from the 60s. 7 AICA, Naples CONCERT: Daniel Oren conducts Enrico Dindo UNTIL WEDNESDAY 8 on cello. Teatro San Carlo, Naples ART: The Great Mother. Solo exhibition by 9 Cristina Cianci. Etra Home Gallery, Naples ART: Christmas installation by Marco Ferrigno. 10 Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo, 11 Naples ART: The Royal Navy in the World War I. 11 Archivio di Stato, Salerno ART: Waiting for. Solo exhibition by Michele 12 Iodice. Intragallery, Naples MUSIC: Alessandra Kogh in concert. Arena FROM WEDNESDAY 13 Flegrea, Naples TILL SUNDAY ART: Exhibition by Robert Gain. Fondazione 14 Foucault, Naples ART: Flourishing is the end. Clara Galesio. 15 Duke of Martina's Museum, Naples PHOTOGRAPHY: Blow your mind. Solo 11-22 exhibition by Boogie. Magazzini Fotografici, 16 Naples ART: Plastic Mantra. A site specific project by 17 Eulalia Valldosera. Studio Trisorio, Naples The pride of being Neapolitan PLASTIC MANTRA MUSIC: Queen at the Opera. Teatro Bellini, ▲ “Healing Song for the seawater and the island of Capri”. A site specific project by the artist 18 Naples Eulalia Valldosera to reflect on the water pollution caused by plastic. The Spanish artist worked MUSIC: Giovanni Block in concert. Teatro and the daughter of creation while travelling across the Gulf of Naples: considering the environment as a living creature, 19 Bellini, Naples eyond words may colors, over "Narrative, dreamy thoughts colored by a she strived to express her complaint through a show of light and beauty. CONCERT: Fabio Luisi conduct Joaquìn distances can the moods of your sincere hand, free of falseness and self- 20 Achùcarro at piano. Teatro San Carlo, Naples Bbirth land which is always present celebrating virtuosity, which talk about love Studio Trisorio. Riviera di Chiaia, 215. T: 081414306 www.studiotrisorio.com BALLET: Royal Ballet of in Swan Lake. even when it is far away. This is the concept in a simple and painful way. Hope for the 21 Teatro Bellini, Naples behind Annapatrizia Settembre’s solo future of coexistence, ideas of coexistence PHOTOGRAPHY: Without Borders. Exhibition exhibition, “Born in Naples”, in which the and brotherhood free from ideological STORIES OF 22 by Steve McCurry. Pan, Naples artist represents her tight relationship with and / or moral barriers . A constant pictorial an art catalogue distributed by Amazon CHILDREN ART: Cowboys in my . Galleria the city, her pride of being born in Naples research, curious in its multi material 23 Acappella, Naples and, at the same time, the consciousness of experiments. Strong and bold colors that worldwide. Her writings and paintings ◄ International 28 OPERA: Rigoletto. Opera in three acts by being the daughter of creation, body and alternate with others more subdued. involve many senses, soul and brain, smell exhibition dedicated 24 Giuseppe Verdi. Teatro San Carlo, Naples soul. On display, paintings of different sizes Paintings and 'whispered' poems by an and memory, hopes and dreams, sweeping to children. On display, in more than ART: Children’s story. Exhibition by Letizia made with mixed techniques on canvas, untamable pen towards the injustice of away fears and giving courage, optimism 200 drawings, the characters of the 25 Galli. Real Casa dell’Annunziata, Naples glass, Plexiglass, aluminum, cardboard and human existence". and victory. books published in Italy and abroad ART: A ticket to the Purgatorio. Santa Maria wood. Works through which old memories The emblems of the exhibition are two The success of Settembre, over the years, has by Letizia Galli derived in part from delle Anime Purgatorio ad Arco, Naples 26 become colors, traces of past generations paintings, "Butterfly" and "Fortuna", in landed overseas as well: the artist created the French Musée de l'Illustration ART: Solo exposition by Tommaso Binga. become present, words no longer need which the artist represents women’s ability a painting entitled "San Gennaro" which Jeunesse and in part by funds of the Galleria Tiziana Di Caro, Naples 27 to be said, but are left to the imagination to undergo transformation to defend is currently guarded by the Deputation artist. At the center of the exhibition ART: Retrospective in solid light dedicated to through bold brushwork and where fear themselves, their land and their children. "Children of San Gennaro" of the homonym the writer's new children’s book, Fabio Mauri. Madre, Naples 28 and past pain are colored and turned into church dedicated to the patron saint of 'Agata Smeralda'. Exhibition organized Annapatrizia September is a very versatile ART: Toy’s stories. Convento di San Domenico positivity. artist. Born in Naples in 1965, she is a Naples, in New York. by Michele Iodice. 29 Maggiore, Naples Armando Jossa, critic and art teacher, writer, sociologist and journalist, poet and >> Pan, Palazzo delle Arti. ART: Seven seasons of the spirit. Gian Maria defines the artwork of September: painter. She has published four novels and Via dei Mille, 60, Naples. T: 0817958604 UNTIL Real Casa dell’Annunziata. 30 Tosatti, Madre Museum, Naples FEBRUARY Via Annunziata, 34, Naples. ART: The Splendor of a Kingdom. Salvatore T: 081289032 www.storiedibambini.org 31 Fergola. Gallerie d’Italia, Naples IN PARTNERSHIP WITH WHERE NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS

8 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | FOCUS

In time, "the carvers of Torre del The threading and propitiatory to specialized in carving shells because the choice of fertility: coral the value of the raw material was low, colors is still left was given to allowing small shops to operate with to the women, young brides little capital", she explained. Not only: but there is to keep them Neapolitan jewelry has always been a greater healthy and linked to the production of souvenirs number make them of Campania archaeological remains. of women procreate and to "The Etruscan jewelry was often used entrepreneurs". nurses to increase with coral and enamels, and, even before the tastiness of their that, Naples was the manufacturing Is it true that in the past, breast milk. In Christian times, coral center of excellence of precious metals coral was considered an apotropaic was associated with the color of the throughout the Mediterranean. object? blood of Christ. It is a sector in which The treasures of the Chapel of San "Of ! It was considered a symbol women and men have always had a Gennaro are an example: the extremely of strength, vitality, and fertility. Until very close relationship. According to the innovative work of the miter by Matteo the 1700s it was thought to be the only legend, in fact, Gorgon, from whom it Treglia and all the other small jewelry of object belonging simultaneously to the is said that coral originated, was both a which we have examples". three kingdoms of nature: plant, due man and a woman". to its arboreal form, mineral, because Today, in the jewelry industry, it’s as hard as a stone, and animal, What does coral represent for you? Campania region is the fourth pole in because when freshly caught it has "I come from generations of coral, Italy and the crafting and processing small on it. Even in the coral fishermen and entrepreneurs. I’ve been of coral and cameo continues to be a transformation process from soft, in the exposed to coral since I was a child; it’s typical art of . form of seaweed, before being caught, my life. Then I began to study it and, in to when it hardens right out of the fact, learning the history of coral has The story of coral is tied to women. water, there is always a reference to a made me understand better who I am "The factory in Torre implanted by phallic shape. At the same time, it was today". Marten employed mainly women workers - explains Ascione - In Torre, for he origins of gold production in more than 6 months a year, women were Naples are ancient. Already in ancient the only inhabitants of the city because The fascinating Parthenope worked many goldsmiths the men left for coral fishing. Since from Magna Grecia. The activity was they were paid half at the beginning world of flourishing in Roman times, even in and half upon their return, also Pompeii,T where a shop was found with branches of based on the amount of coral fished, coral on the desk, the carving of which is typical of women were forced to work to support “red gold” our area. themselves and coral allowed them to do so. They were engaged in operations We spoke with Caterina Ascione, art historian and requiring more sensitivity and precision: The history of coral told by someone designer, member of the historical family of jewelers threading, punching and the choice of who has made it a reason for living of Torre del Greco, for centuries the land of coral. The the corals. The toughest work, however, first thing she told us about is the world record of was left to the men, such as cutting and Torre del Greco, the only place in the world where polishing (the coral was wiped for seven cameo is created from shells, an art which dates back hours under running water in cloth to the institution of the first coral factory in town, by bags). Still today a certain division of the Marseille Bartholomew Marten, in 1805. roles remains, even though not as strict.

10 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Torre del Greco calls upon Unesco mitor aj in pompeii Interview with Tommaso Mazza, promoter of the candidacy of Torre del Greco coral art as a Unesco World Heritage

Last November the proposal for Torre del Greco coral and cameo crafting to join the UNESCO list of intangible heritage was presented. Already accepted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and the Italian UNESCO Commission, the proposal will be evaluated by UNESCO Paris, which is responsible for final approval. Tommaso Mazza, head of the Organizing Committee and president of Assocoral, tells us about it.

How did the idea of proposing the nomination to UNESCO arise?

It came from the Tommaso Mazza need to enhance the PH. © Giovanni Ricci-Novara PH. © Giovanni manufacturing of but, in the end, nothing concrete ever museums. And the field of coral and cameos coral and cameo especially to the eyes of comes about. Yet, despite the crisis, the itself could gain advantages from the the authorities. The city of Torre del Greco niche area we work in has made it, even in recognition and be encouraged to pursue a is a known leader in this industry, but not the midst of many difficulties. more serious penetration into international yet officially recognized. We need greater markets. visibility and the road towards nomination What would be the fallout of Torre seemed viable, although not at all simple: it del Greco if the proposal were to be What is the perception of this important is a long and complicated path, but in the accepted? sector internationally? meantime we will be able to encourage people talk about us more. I wish to emphasize that this is first and Only insiders know how important the foremost a cultural and not a commercial industry is, and not even all of them. For

operation. Our interest is to foster example, not everyone knows that Torre What are the numbers of the coral sector? protection, preservation and enhancement del Greco is the only place in the world ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE OF POMPEII 300 active companies and 5000 employees of a historic and cultural heritage. If the where cameo is carved from shells and 15th May 2016 – 8th January 2017 including the armature. The turnover is proposal is accepted, Torre del Greco will that any piece of shell, from the smallest to remarkable: from 4 million to 500 million be known internationally as a town where largest, is completely handmade. The wider euro. Despite these numbers, no one there is a cultural heritage recognized public doesn’t know and, even among has ever worked hard enough so that as belonging to humanity, it would have professionals, only senior professionals the industry would be given the right a high profile, there would be a relapse know. It is something that the whole world Conception and promotion Sponsored by Organised by importance. Everyone tells us we are good of major tourist hotels, restaurants and should instead become aware of.

12 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 atelier mitoraj WHERE NOW | TASTING NAPLES

Neapolitan cuisine

A journey through Neapolitan culture, aples: a culture built on tastes. Taking us on this Essential. In Naples many eating habits . Is that so? , oil, lard, broccoli, tomatoes, entirely built on flavors, where is journey through the flavors, history and tradition have mixed together over centuries: the Our pizza is special because it’s cooked in oregano, basil, and , of Neapolitan cuisine, is Luciano Pignataro, ones of invaders, the Roman greek ancient specially designed , made to cook because in Naples mostly replaces considered first of all a moment of joy and journalist, writer and gastronimist, who dedicated heritage, the legacy of the monks and the at very high temperature, which have a . sharing because, for certuries, there was his last book to this theme. The title of the book is new habits that arise in a city that was for small, moon shaped opening. Other Which is a typical Neapolitan winter N“Neapolitan cuisine”, edited by Hoepli. centuries the most populated Italian city. are more like bread, they are also very dish? very little of it Naples also had one of the most important good, but pizza is another thing. Maritata (married) soup is a typical What is the main ingredient of Neapolitan cuisine? European aristocracies who came here Is there a dish that you imported and Neapolitan dish, which represents the The joy, the pleasure of gathering and sharing food. In Naples with their cooks. The first gastronomic then characterized as yours? desire for meet which is not really present, there has always been a great lack of food, for this reason, revolution in Italy took place between the The Genoese, which is also my favorite a “poor” dish. In our cuisine there is always are always considered a time of pleasure and happiness, when end of the 1700s and the beginning of the dish! It has Ligurian origins: an and a trace of meat that is never real meet. you reach the goal of ending the day. Food is not something 1800s with the court chefs and Monzù. meat that Neapolitan creativity In fact Neapolitans developed a cuisine foreign to Neapolitans: it is within us. So much that we don’t say For this reason, Neapolitan cuisine deeply made into a pasta sauce. Pasta with which uses mostly animal guts, with spicy "food" but "eating": we identify food with the gesture, so the verb influences , and the most vegetables is the trademark of Neapolitan soup, those parts of the animal considered “eating” becomes a noun. famous words of Italian cuisine, pasta and cuisine, even more than the seafood. less noble but equally nutrient. Also pasta What influence did Neapolitan cuisine have on Italian pizza, come from Naples. What are the basic ingredients of your with and rind, a very complete cuisine? The most typical Neapolitan food is cuisine? dish.

14 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 15 SHOPPING SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM ASPESI – Lightness and fluidity are the key NAPLES words of this brand featuring soft, versatile clothing. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and ACCESSORIES 4.30pm-8pm – www.aspesi.it – piazza San E&G CAPPELLI – The beauty of a tie lies in Pasquale, 23/24 – T: 081.7645399 superior-quality craftsmanship, especially Sizing BARBARO - Since 1970, Barbaro has been when the fabric used is pure silk. Open synonymous with a distinct, highly Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm- recognizable style that interprets Italian 8pm – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 37 – T: luxury with the best-known clothing and 081.400166 accessory labels. Galleria Umberto I, 1/7. T: Shoes GEMELLI DA POLSO – Love and passion for 081414940 www.barbaro.eu the working of precious stones. Collections BLASI – A haven for lovers of precious fabrics, EUR US UK inspired by nature, including the Isle of refined cuts and fashion-forward styles. Capri. Open only by appointment - www. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- WOMEN gemellidapolso.it – Piazza Amedeo, 16/I – T: 8pm – via dei Mille, 31/33 – T: 081.415283 081.403512 36 5 3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – The king of MARIO PORTOLANO – Leather gloves cashmere. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 37 6 4 handmade. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm 2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. and 4.30pm-8pm - www.marioportolano. brunellocucinelli.con – via dei Mille, 31/35 it – via Chiaia, 140/141 – T: 081.418354 – T: 081.4238126 38 7 5 PISTOLA – For more than a century, Pistola BRUNO CARUSO PRIVEE – Caruso’s bridal 39 8 6 has been manufacturing handmade gloves wear is a delightful mix of elegance and for every occasion. Open Mon-Sat 10am- contemporary trends. Relief flowers, 41 9 7 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via S. Caterina Swarovski, georgette and opulent, a Chiaia, 12 elegant capes designed to discreetly 42 10 8 cover plunging necklines during religious ULTURALE CRAVATTE – A tie should be ceremonies but also soft, mermaid- MEN expressive, stylish and memorable – in style lines and semi- transparencies short, beautiful. Open Tue-Fri 10am-7,30pm; epitomize the rich details of his gowns. 41 8 7 Sat 10am-1,30pm – www.ulturale.com - via Via Carlo Poerio, 12. T: 0817640551 www. Carlo Poerio, 115 – T: 081.2481151 brunocarusoprivee.com 42 9 8 CESARE ATTOLINI – The king of tailors, or the tailor of kings, Cesare Attolini actually made 43 10 9 CHILDREN’S a suit for Victor Emanuel III of Italy. Open Mon-Fri 10,30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; 45 11 10 CLOTHING & TOYS Sat 10am-1,30pm - www.cesareattolini.com DU PAREIL AU MEME – A brand specializing – vico Vetriera, 12 – T: 081.426826 46 12 11 in clothing for children aged 0 to 14. DESIGUAL – Established in Barcelona in 1984, Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri the slogan of this fantasy-filled brand is: 47 13 12 4.30pm-8pm – http://www.dpam.com/ - “Desigual is not the same” – www.desigual. via Vittoria Colonna 14/a com – Via , 300/302 – T: 0810665132 FRANCESCO MARTONE – Established in DIRK BIKKEMBERGS – Belgian designer 1889, Francesco Martone has developed Dirk Bikkembergs’ philosophy has always Clothes from generation to generation with been to combine the best of fashion and its array of elegant, timeless children’s sport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and fashions. Corso Umberto I, 234. T: 4.30pm-8pm – www.bikkembergs.com – EUR US UK Monetti: Quality and innovation in Naples 081287962 www.francescomartone.it via Gaetano Filangieri, 4/5 WOMEN Claudio Argenziano, who manages the company with his wife Gabriella Monetti, tells us about the restyling OONA L’OURSE – Sartorial creations for EDDY MONETTI – Hats, ties, smoking jackets children aged 0-4. Over the years, the age and a range of accessories. His motto is XS 34 2 6 of the headquarters in Via dei Mille and the secret of the success of one of the oldest shops of the city bracket was extended to 12-year-olds. “men must keep abreast of the times”. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Sat 36 4 8 8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm – www.oonalourse. 4pm-8pm - www.eddymonetti.com – via ast October the jeweler Monetti, one of created a warm private atmosphere, a cozy was opened, always favoring the high S it – via Carlo Poerio, 6 – T: 081.7644745 dei Mille, 45 – T: 081.407064 – piazza Santa 38 6 10 the oldest shops in Naples, renewed its and secluded place that ensures customers a watchmaking and professionalism of the staff. Caterina, 8 – T: 081.403229 Lheadquarters in Via dei Mille. “Where” completely exclusive purchasing experience. In 1968, a second store was opened in Naples, FALCONERI – A brand that creates 40 8 12 interviewed Claudio Argenziano, now in Via dei Mille, the most prestigious street of CLOTHING – MEN & comfortable, form-fitting garments with M running the company with his wife, Gabriella The jewelry has been open since 1901. Can the city. an impeccable cut. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 42 10 14 WOMEN 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.falconeri. Monetti. you tell us its story? ALESSIO VISONE – She creates exclusive it – via dei Mille, 51 – T: 081403471 L 44 12 16 In the early twentieth century, the name What is the secret to the business’s success? styles right before your eyes. Open Mon-Fri FRANCESCA FERRANTE – Its collections, What kind of changes have been made to Monetti was already synonym of high-class The desire to continuously innovate and 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – via dei Mille, 1 – ever-attentive to new fads and the latest MEN T: 081.421390 trend, are practical, young and fresh. the jewelry shop? watchmaking: in particular, those who sought anticipate customer needs. Our business is 44 34 34 AMINA RUBINACCI – Her oyster-style sweater Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri The most striking change made to the shop, the pocket exemplary, the most exclusive characterized by professionalism and by the 4.30pm-8pm – www.francescaferrante.com S is the ability to access the upper floor. Before, wrist model, were certain it could be found prestigious environments of the two stores, has made her famous throughout the 46 36 36 world and is available in the classic colours – piazza dei Martiri, 52 – T: 081.2451056 customers left their watches at the entrance. only in Via Santa Brigida, 60. In the mid-50s, in line with the Rolex brand, which we always of burgundy, prune, light blue, white, grey FRANZESE - A high-end luxury boutique 48 38 38 Now, they are taken upstairs where, with Guglielmo Monetti passed on the business to have represented in Naples. or black. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and carrying men, women and children’s M the new laboratory, they can personally his sons, Guglielmo and Ugo, who expanded Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 16 – T: clothing plus loads of stylish accessories – 50 40 40 081413048 www.luxuryoflove.it – via D. Morelli, 6/10b see the very high technology used and the the jewelry offer and transformed the shop >> www.monettiorologi.com (piazza dei Martiri). T: 0816583168 ANGELO MARINO – A stylish menswear 52 42 42 specialized technicians. Not only: in the into an increasingly unique selling point. In Monetti jewelery. Via dei Mille, 12 shop, synonymous with Neapolitan GUTTERIDGE – Micheael Gutteridge arrived L space adjacent to the first floor we have 1954 a store in Rome, in Via delle Convertite, Naples. T: 081411468 sartorial elegance. Open Mon-Fri 10am- in Naples from Yorkshire and went on to 54 44 44 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am- create a small empire. Today the company 1,30pm – via Domenico Morelli, 14/16 – T: is synonymous with creative flair, skill, whereNaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples, Coast&Islands! 081.414225 tradition and innovation. Open Mon/Sat

16 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 17 Luxury shopping SHOPPING L s SHOPPING More than newspapers and magazines 5,000on Pressreader including MONETTI

MONETTI

Monetti since 1904 The turn of the 20th century saw the opening of the first ‘Monetti’ store at its historic headquarters in via Santa Brigida. Its founder Guglielmo senior, a qualified technician- watchmaker and a far-sighted pioneer of his times, defied public opinion by believing in the water-resistant properties of Rolex watches, an intuition that resulted in the establishment of the Monetti-Rolex partnership, a tradition perpetuated since 1932. Over time, Monetti also began selling other coveted watch brands and, in 1968, Giuglielmo junior began to make a name for himself in the world of high-class jewelry, not only by developing his own designs but also by partnering with MONETTI Napoli renowned goldsmiths like Pomellato. Today, Monetti’s two Naples-based stores in via Dei Mille and Via dei Mille, 12 Via Santa Brigida, 60 via Santa Brigida are still considered a reference point in the +39 081.411468 +39 081.5523867 city’s historical and commercial tradition. OPEN OPEN Mon 4,30pm-8pm; Mon-Fri 10am-1.15pm Tue-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-7.30pm; and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1.15pm; CLOSED ON Sunday CLOSED ON Sunday and Monday morning and Saturday afternoon www.monettiorologi.com

10am/1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www. MAXI HO – A reference point for shopping in ROBERTA BACARELLI – Since 2011, a gutteridge.it – via Chiaia, 107 Naples, where the group owns a number brand dedicated to women fashion. Her of sales points. Its via Nisco location is collection fluctuates between tailor- HARMONT & BLAINE – Iconic dachshund dedicated to clothing collections, footwear made authentic vintage garments and brand Harmon & Blaine represents one and accessories for men. Open Mon-Fri more contemporary stylish outfits, in a of the most dynamic and successful 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am- blend conveying an equilibrated image of sportswear brands in the fashion industry. 1.30pm - www.maxiho.it – via N. Nisco, nowadays woman which, not dropping out Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 23/27 – T: 081.41023 the cloths comfort, blinks her eyes to the 4pm-8pm – www.harmontblaine.it – past days elegance - piazza dei Martiri, 33 – T: 081.7642591 OFFICINE – Classic clothing and casual refined taste. So many brands are available: www.robertabacarelli.it - Via C. Poerio, 48. T: HUGO BOSS –An ever so sleek and stylish , Barba Orian, Tramarossa Pants, Roy 0817641584 collection of high-end clothing for men Rogers and Altea Heritage are just some of RUBINACCI – Here you can sit down, have a and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and them. Via Carlo Poerio, 92/f. T: 0810324403 cup of coffee with Mariano himself, discuss 4pm-8pm – www.hugoboss.com – via dei OLD – Tradition, quality and the arrival or some new fabric or the Mille, 41 – T:081.401424 elegance meld in a shop whose British style manufacture of a new suit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm JOSSA – Men’s clothing, footwear and has made it famous throughout the world. – www.marianorubinacci.net – via Chiaia, accessories. It stocks Alberto Aspesi quilted Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 149/E – T: 081.415793 jackets and jackets, vintage-style Duvetica 4.30pm-8pm - via Filangieri 15/D quilted jackets and minimalist, beautifully PAOLO FIORILLO – The piazza dei Martiri SARTORIA DALCUORE – His outerwear tailored Jil Sander suits. Accessories include boutique is dedicated to women’s has a unique cut that earned him the Pantofola D’Oro sneakers and coloured collections while the one located in via nickname of “the tailor, non-tailor”, coined Car Shoe loafers. Via Carlo Poerio, 43. T: Carducci stocks clothing, footwear and by his colleagues to emphasize his flair 0817649835 accessories for men and women. Open and his non-conformist attitude. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8am-2pm - www. LIU JO – Established as a textiles company www.paolofiorillo.com – via Carducci, 49/51 sartoriadalcuore.com – Riviera di Chiaia, specializing in knitwear, it later branched – piazza dei Martiri, 30/32 – T: 081.2400023 281– T: 081.7645785 out into “ready-to-wear” fashion for women, men and children. Open Mon-Sat 10am- – Pinko stands out thanks to its SATRIANO CINQUE – An atelier, a meeting 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.liujo.it – stunning decor, studied down to the place and a tailor’s shop, it offers high-end via Gaetano Filangieri, 6/7 – T: 081.42982 last detail, including its carefully planned “made to measure” garments made from arrangement of lights, colours and displays. precious fabrics featuring unique weaves LOTTO 0 – A chic, cult Neapolitan sportswear Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri and patterns. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm 4.30pm-8pm – www.pinko.it - via dei Mille, and Sat 10am-2pm - vico Satriano, 5 – T: and 4.30pm-8pm – www.lottozero.it – via 1/7 – T: 081.4976360 081.0320021 Gaetano Filangieri, 60 – T: 081.2512103 PRIDE CONCEPT STORE PENALTY – A space TAKESHY KUROSAWA – A dramatic, cutting- Download the PressReader application and enjoy reading LUCIANO COPPOLA – Styles by Brando, where research and the experimentation of edge, totally unconventional brand, whose Iceberg, Fusco and Gigli are featured new brands is the name of the game. Open unusual, personality-filled name says it all. when and where you want. alongside a selection of specially treated Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm - www. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- waterproofed garments. Open Mon-Sat pridepenalty.it – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 8pm – www.takeshykurosawa.com – via dei www.pressreader.com 10am-8pm - via dei Mille, 47 – T: 081.413026 27/28 – T: 081.418542 Mille, 11 18 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 19

Where_Naples_Ad_full_page.indd 1 3/4/2016 3:05:35 PM SHOPPING SHOPPING

YAMAMAY – Lingerie, pyjamas and night INTRECCI PREZIOSI – The result of passion - www..com – via Gaetano Filangieri, Luxury shopping wear, swimwear and make-up, but also and artisanal perfection, each piece is 26 – T: 081.414218 eyewear and bags. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am- produced using only the most precious 8.30pm – www.yamamay.com - via Chiaia, materials and time-honoured design – The company specializes in 94 – via dei Mille, 83 A/B – T: 081.409490 techniques. Open Tues-Sat 9,30am- business and travel luggage, trolleys and m - www.rstore.it - via Nisco, 14/16 – T: 1,30am; Mon-Sat 4,30pm-8pm - www. suitcases, mainly in leather or hi-tech 081.404246 intreccipreziosi.com - via Carlo Poerio, 89 materials, a blend of traditional Italian – T: 0810321203 craftsmanship, design, innovation and technology. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm GIOIELLERIA GALDI MANTOVANO – On offer are items of high- and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.piquadro. JEWELLERY & class jewellery, both antique and modern, com – via Carducci, 32 – T: 081.419245 WATCHES Sheffield silver and objets d’art. Open Mon- Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm TRAMONTANO – Since the very beginning, ALESSANDRA LIBONATI JEWELS – AA – www.mantovano.com – piazza dei Martiri, Tramontano’s leather goods collections, young, design company where attention 58 – T: 081.418003 including “Made-in-Italy” totes and to fashion and contemporary trends plays accessories, have been manufactured a key role. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and MONETTI – High-class watchmaking and exclusively in its Naples-based workshops. 4.30pm-8pm - jewellery in Naples since 1904. Open Mon- Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri www.libonatijewels.com – vico II Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm 4pm-8pm - www.tramontano.it – via Chiaia, Alabardieri, 27 – T: 081.19564205 – www.monettiorologi.com – via dei Mille, 143/144 – T: 081.414837 12 – T: 081.411468 BARAKA ELITE LUXURY – New materials skilfully combined with gold and diamonds NAPPA GIOIELLI – The first Nappa jewellery PASSION SHOPPING thanks to cutting-edge techniques. Open store was founded in Naples in 1920. Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - Unique jewels that combine high-end BRUNO ACAMPORA – For the past 40 www.baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: craftsmanship with sophisticated design - years, Bruno Acampora has been creating 081.7646951 aesthetics. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm perfumed oils in his small atelier. His and 4.30pm-8pm - www.nappagioielli.it – range features seven natural essences Since 1954 the Gioielleria Galdi is the BRINKMANN – Iconic watchmakers whose via Filangieri, 65 – T: 081.413143 of international repute. Open Mon- perfect place where to make an important GIOIELLERIA GALDI name is imprinted on the clocks of all Sat 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – www. PANDORA - The wide range of Pandora the cableway stations in Naples - www. brunoacampora.com – via Gaetano choise as buy a Rolex masterpiece! jewellery offers a superlative mix of gift brinkmann.it - Piazza , 21 – T: Filangieri, 72 – T: 081.401701 Cristina&Juanita Galdi will welcome you in 0815520555 ideas for all types of women and occasions. With its charms, bracelets, rings, earrings, ELENA COLONNA – For several generations, their jewellery and they will give you all the BRUNO & PISANO – All the details of this watches, necklaces and pendants, those the Haute Couture bridal wear found at necessary support to make the perfect gift boutique’s decor are reminiscent of the on the receiving end can continue to Atelier Elena has been a pure expression of passing of time: from its entrance door extend their Pandora collection with the maison’s sartorial expertise. Her passion for yourself or for who you love. featuring a ticking clock, to its poufs and timeless items, designed to cater to all for bridal gowns stems fro more than armchairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm tastes and, what’s more, last for a lifetime. fifty years in the business. Open only by and 4.30pm-8pm – via Calabritto, 15 – T: – www.pandora.net – Via Toledo, 322 – T: appointment – www.elenacolonna.it – via 081.7644035 0814976012 dei Mille, 40 – T: 081.404590 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 183 Salerno (SA) CALABRITTO 28 – New materials skilfully PRESTA – Established in Naples in 1902 LIVIO DE SIMONE – A “designer cum +39 089-22-9587 - [email protected] combined with gold and diamonds thanks thanks to the enterprising spirit of visionary, artist” whose creations have garnered www.gioielleriagaldi.it to cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat Cavalier Giuseppe, who used his love international acclaim on runways 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm of jewellery to lay the foundations for throughout the world thanks to his - www.baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: future generations. Open Mon-Sat 10am- magnificent sartorial offerings. In addition 081.7646951 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www. to his womenswear, De Simone’s home CARAMANNA – The philosophy of prestagioielli.it – via dei Mille fabrics are also absolutely stunning. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - – via Morelli, 23 – T: 081.7643903 – via D. painstaking attention to detail cohabit MARIO VALENTINO – Truly innovative Caramanna’s jewellery is encapsulated in SARA LUBRANO - Sara Lubrano’s handcrafted Colonna, 39 – T: 081.401804 in a perfect mix, giving life to luxurious innovative, sought-after shapes, intriguing www.liviodesimone.it – Via D. Morelli, 17 – T: footwear. Several of his styles have even pieces are designed to exalt the personality products. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm subjects and the working of noble 0817643827 been showcased at the Museum of of those who enjoy wearing exclusive PROFUMO EMOZIONI OLFATTIVE – A and 4pm-8pm – www.albertoguardiani. materials based on timeless artisanal Modern Art in New York. Open Mon-Sat jewellery, often tailor-made in her atelier. MARINELLA – The history of the Marinella boutique dedicated to niche fragrances com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 76/78 – T: techniques - www.caramannagioielli.it - Via 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. Vicoletto Belledonne a Chiaia, 7, Naples. T: family started with its founder Eugenio. for those in search of their ideal fragrance. 081.7643884 Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 2 – T: 0810608740 08119575070 www.saralubrano.it It was he who founded the “Marinella Open from Tuesday to Saturday from mariovalentino.it – via Calabritto, 10 – T: philosophy”: more than a sales point, a sort 9.30am to 1.30pm and from 4pm to DELIBERTI – Style, research, design and a 081.7644262 DODO BOUTIQUE – A collection of charms VENTRELLA – Each piece of jewellery is of men’s club where human relations are 8pm. Mon. From 4.30pm to 8pm - www. profound intuition for new trends is the created by Pomellato, recognized unique in an ongoing search for perfection. PASKAL – The boutique was founded by based on service, courtesy and respect. profumopoerio33.it - Via Carlo Poerio, 33. T: byword of this house of shoes. Open Mon- throughout the world for its jewellery, Ventrella jewellery is distinguished by its Open Mon-Sat 6,30am-8pm; Sun 9am-1pm 0812405072 Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. Pasquale Campanile, a member of a family designed to celebrate the small, whimsical original charm knows as the “labyrinth” or - http://www.marinellanapoli.it - Riviera di deliberti.it – via dei Mille, 65 – T: 081.6584363 of time-honoured shoemakers who began feathered Dodo. Open Mon-Sat 10,30am- the “boomerang”. Open Mon-Sat 10am- VOYAGE PITTORESQUE - Made-to-order Chiaia, 287 – T: 081.7644214 his adventure in 1956 with a workshop in 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. contemporary, graphic and photographic DEV – Carries the men’s, women’s and dodo.it - via Filangieri, 58 via Scarlatti, later going on to open what ventrella.it – via Carlo Poerio, 11 – T: M. CILENTO E F.LLO DAL 1780 – For more works plus the reproduction of all types children’s lines of renowned brands Tod’s, is now Paskal – a haven of finely-crafted GENTILE - High class watches and jewellery 081.7643173 than 200 years, in addition to high-quality, and sizes of prints and photographs. Hogan and Fay. Open Mon-Sat 10am- footwear. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm since 1900. Armando Gentile Gioielleria. high-end accessories, Cilento has offered Elite art, prints, panels, objet d’art and 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – via Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Via Toledo, 349, its clientele a wide range of the best customized works. Stylish, imaginative Gaetano Filangieri, 28/33 – T: 081.410156 and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www.pkbypaskal. fabrics for clothing and shirting - www. tailor-made creations - www. it – via dei Mille, 83 – T: 081.409466 Naples. T: 081412711 info@armandogentile. LEATHER & LUGGAGE ERNESTO ESPOSITO SHOES – A Neapolitan it; Gentile Gioielli. Open Mon-Sat 10am- cilento1780.com – www.cravattecilento. voyagepittoresque.it – Via Vittoria Colonna, CARPISA – A small tortoise logo and more designer of international repute, his passion RUCO LINE – Easy-to-wear, practical footwear 8pm. Via Nicola Nisco, 4, Naples. T: it – Riviera di Chiaia, 203-204, Palazzo Ludolf. 15 – T: 081407309 than 600 sales points scattered throughout for fashion, art and design have served as 081418360 [email protected] T: 0815513363 that focuses, above all, on comfort. Open Italy and the world. Its rich array of his main sources of inspiration. Open Mon- Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – GIOVANNI RASPINI – A space extending collections, an expression of pure Italian MUSEUM SHOP - Shop for gifts and souvenirs SHOES Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. via dei Mille, 27 – T: 081.419012 over a surface area of 35 sq.m in the heart design, are a bargain fashionista’s dream typical of Naples. T-shirts, jewelry, bronzes, ernestoespositoshoes.com/ - via Santa of the shopping centre renowned for its come true. Bags, small leather goods, prints, statues, books, CDs, DVDs and ALBANO – A temple to luxury shoes: sexy Caterina a Chiaia, 20 – T: 081.4238325 SUTOR - A temple to luxury shoes: Marini, beautifully handcrafted silverware. Open luggage, briefcases, accessories and gifts stationery with themes dedicated to sandals in uber-glam nuances, embellished L’ARTIGIANO DEI SANDALI – Jackie Kennedy Regain, Green George, Santoni, Premiata. Mon-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- at affordable prices. www.carpisa.it – Via Naples - www.museum-shop.it - Largo by precious stones, Swarowski crystals had a soft spot for this tiny shoemaker’s Via Carlo Poerio, 36. T: 0812452292 8pm - www.raspini.it – via Bisignano, 63 – T: Nisco, 1 – T: 081418390; via Toledo, 249/251 Corpo di Napoli, 3. T: 3891194169 and ultra-feminine details. Open Mon-Sat shop. For the past 50 years, the Ricci family 081.4976064 – T: 0812525067 9.30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - YMOTHO – High-quality, trendy shoes OSTUNI – For the past fifty years, Ostuni has has been crafting custom-made sandals at www.albano.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, at unbeatable prices featuring a wide ILEANA DELLA CORTE – Her motto is: “I like FURLA – Since 1927, Furla has produced and been a leader in the world of fragrances 12 – T: 081.19568193 this location. The open Capri model with a being elegant”. Open Mon 4.30pm-8pm; distributed stylish, high-class, exclusively and is known, above all, for its rarities. low heel resembling a Roman sandal is one selection of dozens of styles. A “must-visit” Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – “Made-in-Italy” bags, footwear and Bottles that are almost impossible to find ALBERTO GUARDIANI – Superior quality of the venue’s standouts. Open Mon-Sat destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm www.ileanadellacorte.it – via Carlo Poerio, accessories throughout the globe. Open anywhere else and unrivalled essences. footwear featuring a blend of exquisite 9am-1,30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – vico and 4.30pm-8pm – Piazza Giulio Rodinò, 52/a – T: 081.7646101 Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm Open Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm craftsmanship, experimentation and Belledonne a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.414698 17 – T: 081.425626

20 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING

COAST&ISLANDS Top Brands BOTTIGLIERI GIOIELLI – Corso Vittoria Colonna, NATURISCHIA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 220 and ACCESSORIES 67, . T: 081984128 – www.bottiglierigioielli.it 246, Ischia. T: 081982112 LE MONDE DES BIJOUX – Via Roma, 123, Ischia. T: The paradise of luxury shopping in Naples and on the Coast&Islands CAPRI KRONOS DI MARIO RUOCCO – Via Le CHE DELIZIA – Via San Cesareo, 9, 081984800 Botteghe, 12, Capri. T: 0818377545 www.shop. Sorrento. T: 0818074702 MACRAMÈ – Via Luigi De Maio, 28, Sorrento. T: caprikronos.com 0818773114 CHANTECLER – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 51, Capri. T: PASSION SHOPPING BULGARI - The Italian creator of luxurious jewels helms the company - www.damiani.it - via Naples. T: 081.410156. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 0818370544 – www.chantecler.it ANTICA SARTORIA – Sartorial. Via G. www.bulgari.com - via Filangieri, 40, Naples. Filangieri, 15 bis, Naples. T: 081.405043 - Open CLOTHING Marconi, 158/164, Positano. T: 089875089 www. 2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza Umberto DESIDERIO GIOIELLI – , 17, Capri. anticasartoriapositano.it T: 081.409551. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- I, 20, Capri. T: 0818375967. Open Mon-Sun ANNA FOTI – Corso Italia, 210, Sorrento. T: T: 0818370011 0818784730 www.annafoti.com 10am-1,30pm - via Camerelle, 37, Capri. T: 8pm 10am-9pm BIMONTE – Cameos and coral. Via P.R. FELUDEI – Via Dei Mulini, 19, Positano. T: 089812181 0818374434. Open Mon-Sun 10am-11pm A’ PUTECHELLA – Via Luigi Mazzella, 101, Ischia. T: Giuliani, 62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 – www. EMPORIO ARMANI - A leading luxury brand LOUIS VUITTON - A dream, an icon and a work www.feludei.it 0813334537 www.aputechella.it bimontesorrento.com BURBERRY - An unmistakable icon of British on the world fashion scene that designs, of art. Each Louis Vuitton bag is a symbol of GENTILE POSITANO – Via del Sarracino, 57, style since 1865, the brand invented a new manufactures and distributes fashion exemplary quality and outstanding savoir-faire BOUTIQUE BAROCCO – Viale Pasitea, 94, Positano. BON BON – Positano fashion. Via G. Marconi, 390, look and made a name for itself in the world and lifestyle products including clothing, T: 089811144 Positano. T: 0898123477 [email protected] Positano. T: 089875963 www.bonbonsrl.it - www.louisvuitton.it - via dei Mille, 2, Naples. www.gentilepositano.it of fashion thanks to its stylish raincoats accessories and jewellery - www.armani.com T: 081.7646606. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and CARMELA CELENTANO – Via P.R. Giuliani, 4/6, BOTTEGA DI BRUNELLA – Positano fashion. Via and innovative materials. Its distinctive – piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples. T: 081425816. GIOIELLERIA DI SOMMA – Corso Italia, 114, Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 16/A, Capri. Sorrento. T: 0818781370 Pasitea, 72, Positano. T: 089875228 tartan pattern has become one of its best- Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Corso Italia, 160- www.carmelacelentano.it Sorrento. T: 0818073213 T: 0818376799. Open Mon-Sun 10am-10pm BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – Cashmere apparel. Via known and widely- loved symbols - www. 162, Sorrento. T: 081.8781779 IVI GIOIELLI – Via Cristoforo Colombo, 20, Positano. it.burberry.com - via dei Mille 24/28, Naples. T: - A name associated since its CHIARO DI LUNA – Corso Italia, 16/18, Meta di Camerelle, 14/a, Capri. T: 0818388248 – www. FENDI - Founded in 1925, by Edoardo and T: 089811025 – www.ivigioielli.it 081.0700180 Sorrento. T: 0815322290 brunellocucinelli.it Adele Fendi, over the years, it has built up its inception with classic female elegance, it has always offered clean-cut, beautifully tailored CRUCIANI – Piazza Umberto, 5, Capri. T: 0818370204 LA CAMPANINA – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 18, Capri. CARTHUSIA – Local fragrances. Via Camerelle, 10, DAMIANI - Creativity, design and international reputation in the fashion industry www.cruciani.net T: 0818370643 www.lacampaninacapri.com Capri. T: 0818370529; Corso Italia, 117. Sorrento. T: entrepreneurship have been the hallmarks with its stunning range of haute couture lines. Its sensual yet “no frills” style has always 0818075549 – www.carthusia.com served as its visiting card - www.maxmara. DOLCE E GABBANA – Via Camerelle, 39/41, Capri. T: LA CAPRESE – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 41, Capri. T: of the Damiani family for almost a century, and pret-a-porter collections - www.fendi. combined with a profound passion for art, com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 24/25, Naples. com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 69, Naples. T: 0818377154 – www.dolcegabbana.it 0818377777 ECOCAPRI – Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 11, Capri. T: 081.405900. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm and 0818374510 www.ecocapri.com handed down from father to son and still T: 081.413261. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and ELIO FRONTERRÈ – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 154, LA PERLA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 129, Ischia. T: apparent in the third generation that now Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 8/B, Capri. T: 4pm-8pm; Sat 10am-2pm; corso Italia, 102-104, 081988094 www.laperlagioielliischia.it Ischia. T: 081905552 www.eliofronterre.com FABIANA FILIPPI – Knits. Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 148, 0818370871. Open Mon-Sun 9,30am-10pm Sorrento. T: 0818782785. Open Mon-Thur EMPORIO LE – Via Cristoforo Colombo, POMELLATO – Via Camerelle, 10/b, Capri. T: Ischia. T: 081900472 – www.fabianafilippi.com 10am-1,30pm and 5,30pm-10pm; Fri-Sun GUCCI - Gucci’s “Made-in-Italy” style has become 30, Positano. T: 089811468 – www.sirenuse.it 0818375418 – www.pomellato.it 10,30am-10pm FIORENTINO CREATION – Interior decorations. synonymous with elegance, sophistication Piazza Angelina Lauro, Sorrento. T: 0818784258 FARELLA – Knitwear. Via Fuorvaldo, 21/c, Capri. T: SORRENTO GIOIELLI – Corso Italia, Sorrento. T: and desirability - www.gucci.com - via www.fiorentinocreation.com MONTBLANC - For a century synonymous with 0818375243 – www.farella.it 0818770392 – www.sorrentogioielli.com Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 081.7640730. Open high-class writing instruments, the brand has I LOVE POSITANO – Home design. Via Pasitea, 91, FIORDALISO BOUTIQUE – Via Gianturco, 2, Ischia. SWAROVSKI – Corso Italia, 21, Sorrento. T: Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; been known for its timeless values including Positano. T: 08912199 www.ilovepositanodesign. T: 081900219 0818771455 – www.swarovski.com via Camerelle, 25-27, Capri. T: 0818370820. quality and craftsmanship - www.montblanc. com Open Mon-Thur and Sun 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat com - via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081.400057. GREY FLANNEL – Via Le Botteghe, 31, Capri. T: THE CORAL JEWELRY – Via P.R. Giuliani, 62, LA CONCHIGLIA – Artisanal products. Via Fluoro, 10am-midnight 0818388200 Sorrento. T: 0818071880 www.thecoraljewelry. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm 29, Sorrento. T: 0818774605 HERMES ITALIA - Men, women and children’s IDENTITÀ MARE – Via Delle Terme, 5, Ischia. T: com PRADA - – The decor of this boutique mirrors clothing but also leather goods, jewellery and 081985580 LEONARD – Corals. Via San Cesareo, 24, Sorrento. Prada’s minimalist style to perfection – www. VOZZA – Via Fuorlovado, 38, Capri. T: 0818374010 T: 8772923 watches, fragrances and homeware www.graziavozza.com prada.com – Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T: JUDITH MAJOR – Via Chiaia delle Rose. Sant’Angelo, - www.italy.hermes.com - via Gaetano LOUISE MODA POSITANO – Positano fashion. Ischia. T: 081983295; 0813330336 Filangieri, 53/57, Naples. T: 081.4207054. Open 081.413499. Open Mon-Sat 10pm-8pm; via LOCAL PRODUCTS Via dei Mulini, 22, Positano. T: 089875192 www. Roma, 2, Capri. T: 0818374420. Open Mon-Sat KETRA FASHION – Corso Italia, 1/G, Meta di louisepositano.com Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; Sorrento. T: 0815323032 CANTINE ANTONIO MAZZELLA – . Via via Camerelle, 43, Capri. T: 0818378957. Open 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm Campagnano, 2, Ischia. T: 081901541 MARIO LIMONE – Perfumes. Corso Italia, 212 b/c, Mon-Sun 10am-9pm; closed on Wed LA CAPRESE PIÙ – Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: Sorrento. T: 0815341021 www.mariolimone.it SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - The high quality 081981797 www.lacapresepiu.com CAPRI RICORDI – Capri. T: 0818378803 www. HOGAN - Not only shoes but also bags, of its footwear is guaranteed by attention capriricordi.it PEZZI PAZZI – Positano fashion. Via Guglielmo clothing and eyewear are sold at this exclusive to the construction of its lasts, unrivalled LA PARISIENNE – Piazza Umberto I, 7, Capri. T: Marconi, 12, Positano. T: 089811141 0818370283 www.laparisiennecapri.it boutique craftsmanship – www.ferragamo.com – CERAMICA SOLIMENE – Via Madonna degli www.pezzipazzi.it Naples Angeli, 7, . T: 089210243 www. www.hogan.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 33, woman piazza dei Martiri, 56, Naples. T: LINOMANIA – Via Pasitea, 199, Positano. T: RALLO – Handcraft. Via Pasitea, 58, Positano. T: 081.415454; man piazza dei Martiri, 60, Naples. 3384194405 ceramicasolimene.it 089811711 T: 081.412123. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm CERAMICHE ASSUNTA – Via Cristoforo MARIA LAMPO – Via Pasitea, 12/16, Positano. T. RINO BOUTIQUE – Positano fashion. Via Pasitea, and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; woman via Vittorio 089875021 – www.marialampo.it Colombo, 137, Positano. T: 089875008 www. ceramicassunta.it 114, Positano. T: 089812043 www.rinoboutique.it Emanuele, 21-29, Capri. T: 0818370499; man via Carlo Serena, 1, Capri. T: 0818376514. Open MARIO ADARIO – Corso Italia, 128/130, Sorrento. T: RUSTICA DOMUS – Furniture. Corso Vittoria 0818781361 www.marioadario.it D’AMBRA VINI – Wine. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16, Mon-Sun 10am-9pm Ischia. T: 081907246 Colonna, 155, Ischia. T: 081992100 NADIR – Via Pasitea, 44, Positano. T: 089811690 www. TOD’S - Tod’s offers up handmade footwear, FATTORIA MARECOCCOLA – Via Marecoccola, SARTORIA FIORENTINO – Made-to-measure nadirpositano.com bags, leather goods and accessories for 10, Sorrento. T: 0815330151 www. garments. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 29, Positano. PHILOSOPHY – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 130, Ischia. fattoriamarecoccola.net T. 089875290 men and women. The essence of luxury and T: 0813331312 timeless style - www.tods.com - via Calabritto, FISCHI D’ISCHIA – Lucky charm. Piazza Marina, SHOES 3, Naples. T: 081.7643694. Open Mon-Sat RETRÒ FASHION STORE – Corso Luigi Manzi, Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 081994141 10am-14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 0815072429 www. www.fischidischia.it ANTONIO VIVA SANDALI CAPRESI – Via Giuseppe retroabbigliamentoischia.it Orlandi, 75, Capri. T: 081.8373583 – www. Umberto I, 8, Capri. T: 0818376896. Open Mon- IL GUSTO DELLA COSTA – Via Capriglione, 24, sandalocaprese.it Sun 10am-9pm RIZ BOUTIQUE – Via Messer Onofrio, Ischia. T: Positano. T: 0898131098 www.ilgustodellacosta.it 081900239 DON CATELLO – Via franco Franchi, 5, Positano. T: TRUSSARDI - Originally founded as a glove ISCHIA SAPORI – . Via Porto, 36, Ischia. T: 089811905 http://doncatello.weebly.com/ STELLA DI MARE – Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 150, Ischia. factory in 1911, this Italian lifestyle brand 081991600 – www.rucolino.it T: 081994396 SANDALI CORCIONE – Corso Italia, 28, Sorrento. T: subsequently went on to become one of the DI CAPRI – Via Roma, 79, Capri. T: 0818770600 www.sandalicorcione.com most important brands on the world fashion 0818375561 www.limoncello.com stage - www.trussardi.com - via dei Mille, 30, JEWELLERY & WATCHES SANDALI SINISCALCHI – Corso Italia, Sorrento. T: MARYCHARLES – Souvenirs. Corso Italia, 210/b, 0818783065 – www.sandali-siniscalchi.blogspot. Naples. T: 081.416829. Open Mon-Sat 10am- BOTTEGA DEL GIOIELLO – Corso Italia, 179, Capri Sorrento. T: 0818785419 Sorrento. T: 0818771455 www.marycharles.it com 14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm

22 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 23 DINING DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM dei Tribunali, 94. T: 081455262 www. NAPLES MEAT COOKED SOUP. Soup with and pizzeriadimatteo.it lamb interior and pork scraps. Should be FRESCO – A modern take on traditional INTERNATIONAL served hot of crispy bread called “freselle”. trattorie. Diners will delight in its traditional flatware and served in a glass. Via CUISINE Partenope, 8. T: 0816582823 AL MUERZO – A corner of in the heart of Naples. Via Bausan, 4. T: 081425093 www. GINO SORBILLO – An entire family of pizza almuerzo.org chefs (21 brothers committed to the art of pizza-making. An institution since the 1930s. AMIR – The secrets of Arab cuisine handed Via dei Tribunali, 32. T: 081446643 www. down by generations of women. Via Santa sorbillo.it Chiara, 25. T: 0815527380 GORIZIA – Located in the heart of , it BELLA CINA – Japanese and . was founded in 1916 by Salvatore Grasso. Expect top-notch roast ravioli. Calata San Today the family Grasso keep up the name Marco, 15. T: 0815512308 Gorizia, with great enthusiasm and passion, DRAGO D’ORO – Fresh ingredients, creativity continuing to offer a high quality Neapolitan and style make this one of the best eateries pizza according to the tradition. Via Gian of its kind. Via del Chiostro, 21/23. T: Lorenzo Bernini, 29, Naples. T: 0815782248 0812135478 www.gorizia1916.com GIAPPO SUSHIBAR TAKEAWAY – An elegant GUSTO&GUSTO – “L’angolo del gusto” an sushi bar boasting a stylish interior and offshoot of the Antonio&Antonio chain. a wide selection of top-notch Japanese Via Partenope, 31-33. T: 0812452662 www. cuisine. Vico Belledonne in Chiaia, 2. T: gustoegusto.it 0817648465 www.giappo.com LA FIGLIA DEL PRESIDENTE – Artisanal JAP-ONE – A refined, elegant atmosphere for based on time-honoured lovers of Oriental flavours. Via Santa Maria a Partenope, 26. T: 0812451987 www. family tradition, Maria Cacialli continues Cappella Vecchia, 30. T: 0817646667 antonioeantonio.net to uphold the name of one of the best- known pizza chefs in Naples. Via del JORUDAN SUSHI – Quality and tradition for BRANDI – An icon of authentic Neapolitan Grande Archivio, 23/24. T: 081286738 www. fine Japanese dining. Via Tasso, 288. T: 081 pizza since1780. This was where the pizza lafigliadelpresidente.it 640564 Margherita was invented in 1889, so-called in honour of the Queen of Italy who tasted LA MASARDONA – The pizzeria helmed by KUKAI – Classical upgraded Enzo Piccirillo has been a cult destination for with an innovative twist. Via Carlo de Cesare, it here. Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, 2. T: 081416928 www.brandi.it “pizza fritta” since 1945. Via Capaccio Giulio 52. T: 081425888 Cesare. T: 081281057 LA MADRUGADA – Since 1991 tapas bar CAPASSO – Antica Pizzeria Capasso founded in Porta San Gennaro, in the heart of via Foria LA NOTIZIA – Famed pizzeria owned by and restaurant. Via , 93, Naples. T: Enzo Coccia. Just pizza, from start to finish. 3492405442 is managed by the grandfather Vincenzo descending Donna Adele, who offers Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53/55. T: ROMEO SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Top- with his kin to the public True Neapolitan 0817142155 www.enzococcia.it notch sushi served in a warm, welcoming pizza according to the tradition of a great L’ARTE DELLA PIZZA – The pizzeria was fonde atmosphere where no detail has been left family. Via Porta San Gennaro, 2/3, Naples. T: by the master pizza maker Gaetano Esposito to chance. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45. T: 081456421 who with his son Enzo continue sto de 0810175002 www.romeohotel.it DA ATTILIO – The restaurant is based on light Neapolitans and tourists with its tasty TENDER – Located in the vibrant heart of the Neapolitan traditional cuisine. Everybody is pizza and its artistic creations made with the city, this small cosy restaurant also offers welcomed with kindness. One of the best . Via Santa Maria della Libera, 5, Naples. discerning diners a chance to eat sushi at pizzas is the Carnevale, designed like a star T: 0812411907 . Vico Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia, 5. and the border stuffed with , don’t LA TAVERNA DI BACCO – The philosophy T: 0817643143 www.japonegroup.com Capodichino Airport forget to ask and taste the delicious Bacetti that distinguishes La tavern di Bacco is the or the big croquette. Via Pignasecca, 17. T: painstaking, ongoing search for excellence In Naples, the food and wine experience starts right from the airport. Behind the choice of the shops in PIZZA 0815520479 in the food and wine sector, with particular DA MICHELE – Founded in 1930, this restaurant emphasis on Campanian products that make the terminal, including their location, there is a careful study of the different profiles of travelers. 50 KALÒ – Its name stems from the our pizzas a one-of-a-kind tasting experience. combination of 50, which in the Cabala is so traditional that it only serves pizza marinara and . Via Cesare Via Sementini, 28, Naples. T: 0815466119 stands for bread, and the Greek word Kalò, www.sasapizzamia.it he International Airport of Naples flight, especially tourists who come from the is an international airport, we also have which means beautiful. Superlative pizza Sersale, 1/3. T: 0815539204 Capodichino presents a wide range of coast, so they have more time to stop and opened a sushi bar to meet the needs made by Ciro Salvo. Piazzetta Sannazzaro, DI MATTEO – Famed, above all, for its fried LOMBARDI – One of the oldest pizzerias in food and beverage offer, both before eat or drink something. Every three months of passengers who look for something 201/b. T: 08119204667 pizza but not only. Also serves an array Naples, the Lombardi family was the first to T sell authentic Neapolitan pizza in the US. www.50kalò.it of other delectable fried offerings. Via and after the security checks. We asked we interview our passengers to better different. And for who was in Naples for Established in 1892, its signature dish is “pizza AL 22 – In a pictoresque street of Naples, in a Sergio Gallorini, consumer sales manager understand their desires and habits. We a long period of time and wants to eat fritta” topped with bacon bits and ricotta corner of the city made of sounds and colors, . Via Foria, 12. T: 081456220 of the terminal, what are the criteria used have identified five different profiles on the something that is closer to home, we even in a film of Totò and Eduardo De Filippo, you to differentiate the food offer, and which basis of which we make our choices. have McDonald's. meet the pizzeria “Al 22”, which titled the NON SOLO PIZZA – Is a take away pizzeria name of the restaurant with the number infused with a welcoming, cozy atmosphere. GESAC factors, the company responsible The dining options are scattered along Much attention is devoted to the format, of his address. Via Pignasecca, 22, Naples. T: The basic ingredients of Marco’s pizza include for managing the airport, are considered the way from the check in to the gate: we the type of products sold, but especially 0815522726 www.pizzeriaal22.it love, passion, high-quality ingredients and more important. have a long hallway that, without the food the value of money: if food and beverage the famous water of the Nitrodi springs. ANTICA PIZZERIA PORT’ALBA – Estabilished Piazza SS. Immacolata, 7, d’Ischia. T: offer would only be only a transit corridor; are too expensive, then you will be led to in 1738 and located under the arch 0810123841 wich from Piazza bring to via "Each airport has its own story. Capodichino so instead, we favor the stationing of think that all the rest of the shopping is too. Costantinopoli, Port’Alba was a meeting OLIVA CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI – is a few kilometers from the city center, passengers. We make sure that does not happen". place for artists and writers. A characteristic Traditional Neapolitan pizza. Premium quality, deeply connected to it, and that's why our Ample space is given to local excellence, place to enjoy the Neapolitan pizza with the freshly sourced ingredients. Via Arena alla fantasy and the quality of Gennaro Luciano. Sanità, 3. T: 081444166 www.pizzeriaoliva.it offer is concentrated in the area before from Feudi di San Gregorio with typical >> www.aeroportodinapoli.it Via Portalba, 18, Naples. T: 081459713 www. PIZZERIA BORBONICA – It proposes True security controls: passengers are often dishes of Irpinia to Garofalo Farms with anticapizzeriaristoranteportalba.com Neapolitan Pizza in a friendly atmosphere of accompanied here well in advance of the buffalo . Since, however, ours ANTONIO&ANTONIO – Restaurant cum MAIZE PIZZA. Prepared with corn , the ancient Napoli. The secret of its success pizzeria. Diners can choose from among pork scratchings, lard, water and salt, it can is the professionalism and the use of high more than 40 types of pizza baked in quality products. Via Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone, whereNaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples, Coast&Islands! a traditional wood-burning . Via be fried or baked. 99/100, Naples. T: 0810322495

24 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 25 DINING DINING

no-frills trattoria was formerly patronized by TRATTORIA DELL’OCA – Refined yet relaxed, boasts an evocative terrace overlooking the the likes of Totò, De Filippo and Federico this welcoming trattoria celebrates beautifully wharf of Santa Lucia. Via Borgo Marinari, 1. T: Fellini. Via Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. T: cooked classics upgraded with an innovative 0817642565 www.ziteresa.it 0815538525 www.mimiallaferrovia.it twist. Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 11. T: 081414865 www.trattoriadelloca.it NAPOLI MIA – Welcoming, elegant and low- key: a style reflected in its cuisine boasting UMBERTO – Umberto’s menu is rich and varied FRY SHOPS delectable, mouth watering dishes where no with its main section built on traditional detail has been left to chance. Riviera di Chiaia, Neapolitan recipes. Seasonal variations are ANTICA FRIGGITORIA SPACCANAPOLI – Its 269. T: 0815522266 www.ristorantenapolimia.it made throughout the year, the traditional fried food is served in a classical “coppetiello”, a Neapolitan pizza menu and the exquisite paper cone designed to absorb excess fat. Via OSTERIA LA MATTONELLA – Just one room family atmosphere all form part of the Benedetto Croce, 42. T: 3473357240 adorned by long wooden tables and benches. Umberto identity. Via Alabardieri, 30. T: Its walls are covered with old, hand-painted 081418555 www.umberto.it CHIPSTAR – Only fresh, Dutch potatoes cut and Neapolitan tiles. Via Nicotera, 13. T: 081416541 VALÙ – Standouts at this charming, low-key fried while you wait. More than 16 garnishes. Via ROSIELLO – Founded in1933 by Gelsomina restaurant featuring soft lighting and live Scarlatti, 186. Rosiello, its time-honoured recipes have been music are char-grilled meat, and an FIORENZANO – Renowned for all types of fried handed down from generation to generation. astute selection of fine . Vico del fare. Via Pignasecca, 14. T: 3497810146 Via Santo Strato, 10. T: 0815752341 www. Gelso, 80. T: 0810381139 ristoranterosiello.it www.valu.it FRIGGITORIA VOMERO – Owned by the Acunzo family, this legendary snack bar makes some TERRAZZA CALABRITTO – A not-to-be-missed VERITAS RESTAURANT – Only serves products of Campanian origin. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, of the best deep-fried snacks in town. Via experience: authentic dishes and flavours Cimarosa, 44. T: 0815783130 further enhanced by one of the most 141. T: 081660585 www.veritasrestaurant.it beautiful views in Italy. Piazza Vittoria, 1. T: ZI’ TERESA – Frescoed walls and ancient TUTINO – Famed for its “a libretto” (folded) pizza. MORSI & RIMORSI JAMMIN BISTROT 0812405188 www.terrazzacalabritto.it majolica-tiled floors. This delightful venue Via della Solitaria, 34. T: 0817645259 via Nobel, . T: 08119751128 Via Gioacchino Rossini, 9, Naples. www.gianfrancoiervolino.it T: 08119257694 COAST&ISLANDS PIZZERIA VESUVIO – Pizza makers since 1989. A CRU…Do RÈ – The art of raw fish. Its interiors are LA CANTINELLA – Founded in 1976 by Giorgio place where you can eat authentic Neapolitan inspired by the marine world. Piazza Vittoria, Rosolino, its name has become a byword with AGLIO, OLIO E POMODORO – Via Luigi Mazzella, CAPRI GARDEN – Via Roma, 50, Capri. T: DA VINCENZO – Viale Pasitea, 172/178, Positano. Pizza. Via benedetto Croce, 44, (Naples). 11/12. T: 0817645295 www.crudore.it gourmands in the know. Via Cuma, 42, Santa 84, Ischia Ponte. T: 08119143460 www. 0818370003 T: 089875128 www.davincenzo.it T: 081475728. Lucia. T: 0817648684 www.lacantinella.it aglioolioepomodoro.com DA ETTORE – Since 1914, this epic trattoria CAPRI’S – Via Roma, 38, Capri. T: 0818377108 DIVINA SORRENTO – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 18, STARITA – Established in 1901, this trattoria, has been serving classic Neapolitan fare. Via LA CHITARRA – A dozen tables, terracotta ALBERTO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 8, www.capris.it Sorrento. T: 0818781883 also renowned for its deep-fried snacks, made flooring, a guitar on the wall and a warm Gennaro Serra, 39. T: 0817643578 Ischia. T: 081981259 www.albertoischia.it CASA E BOTTEGA – Via Pasitea, 100, Positano. T: DONNA RACHELE – Via Padre Serafino an appearance in L’oro di Napoli (1954), a welcoming atmosphere. This cosy osteria 089875225 Cimino, 2bis, Capri. T: 0818375387 www. film starring Sofia Loren. Via , 27. T: ECOMESARÀ – An array of tantalizing, sought- dishes up prepared with AL CONVENTO – Piazza San Francesco, 16, donnarachele,com 0815441485 www.pizzeriastarita.it after dishes and a welcoming ambience local, strictly seasonal ingredients. Rampe San Cetara. T: 089261039 www.alconvento.net CHANTECLER’S – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 38, combine to make diners feel completely at Giovanni Maggiore, 1 b. T: 081 5529103 www. AL GROTTINO – Via Longano, 27, Capri. T: Sorrento. T: 0818075868 www.chanteclers.com DON PEDRO – Via Nastro Verde, 77, Sorrento. T: TRIANON – Founded in 1923 by the Leones, a osterialachitarra.it 0818073910 www.ristorantedonpedro.it husband and wife team, it is renowned for home. Via S. Chiara, 49. T: 08119259353 www. 0818370584 www.ristorantealgrottino.net CHEZ BLACK – Via del Brigantino, 19/21, its big “a ruota del carretto” pizza. Via Pietro ecomesararistorante.it LA STANZA DEL GUSTO – Quirky, brightly- A’ PARANZA – Via Dragone, . T: 089871840 Positano. T: 089875036 www.chezblack.it È DIVINO – Via Sella Orta, 10/A, Capri. T: coloured tables and chairs decorate the Colletta, 44/46. T: 0815539426 GRAN GUSTO – A market, restaurant, wine www.ristoranteparanza.com COCÒ – Piazzale Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081981823 0818378364 www.edivinocapri.com bar and bar. A gastronomic hub where dining room whose walls are covered with large blackboards featuring famous quotes ATTIMO DI VINO – Via Porto, 103/105, Ischia. T: COVO DEI SARACENI – Via Regina Giovanna, 5, EDODÈ – Via Camerelle, 83, Capri. T: 081838 gourmands can sample premium-quality and thoughts for the day. Via Costantinopoli, 08119528411 Positano. T: 089875878 www.covodeisaraceni. 8252. www.edodecapri.com products and experience a true love of RESTAURANTS 100 T: 081401578 www.lastanzadelgusto.it AURORA – Via Fuorlovado, 18-22, Capri. T: it – Via Camerelle, 75, Capri. T: cuisine. Via Marina, 5. T: 08119376800 www. ANTICA OSTERIA DA TONINO – Heirloom LA TAVERNA DEL BUONGUSTAIO – Simple 0818370181 www.auroracapri.com DA CICCIO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 32, Ischia. T: 0818370320 www.faraglioni.com osteria featuring a wood interior, a wall gran-gusto.it wooden tables and chairs, wax table cloths AURORA – Piazza Tasso 10/11, Sorrento. T: 081991686 FUNICOLARE – Piazza Armando Diaz, Capri. T: covered with celebrity photos and simple IL CELLAIO – The ideal spot to eat high- and a low-fuss, white tiled dining room. Serves 0818781248 www.pizzeriaaurora.com DA COSTANTINO – Via Corvo, 107, Positano. T: 0818370363 home . Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 47. T: quality meat, savour fine wines and discover a delightful array of daily specials. Vico Basilio 089875738 www.dacostantino.net 081421533 sought-after . Via Carlo Poerio, 54. T: Puoti, 8. T: 0815512626 BAGNI D’ARIENZO – Via Arienzo, 16, Positano. T: FUORO – Via Fluoro, 21/23, Sorrento. T: 089812002 www.bagnidarienzo.com DA GABRISA – Via Pasitea, 221, Positano. T: 0818774840 ‘A TAVERNA DO RE – Francesco Parrella 0817641380 www.ilcellaio.com LA TAVERNA DELL’ARTE – Don Alfonso re- upgrades traditional favourites while ensuring 089811498 www.vilagabrisa.it GIARDINO EDEN – Via Nuova Cartaromana, 68, LA CAMPAGNOLA – Typical Neapolitan cuisine proposes ancient 17th century recipes at BAGNI DELFINO – Via Marina Grande, 216, that they retain all of their original flavours. this pretty, homely restaurant. Rampe San Sorrento. T: 0818782038 DA GAETANO – Via Delle Ginestre, 27, Ischia. T: Ischia. T: 081985015 www.giardinoedenischia.it Fondo Supportico di Separazione, 2/3. T: since1946. Designed to seat up to about 50 Giovanni Maggiore, 1. T: 081552758 BAGNI TIBERIO – , 46, Capri. T: 081991807 www.pizzadagaetano.it GIORGIO AL CUCCIOLO – Via La Fabbrica, 52, 0815522424 diners, it has been spruced up with local art and offers a number of lip-licking pasta dishes. LE COLONNE – The ideal setting for a cuisine 0818377688 www.bagnitiberio.com DA GELSOMINA – Via Migliara, 72, , Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371917 CANTINA SAN TEODORO – Owned by Mimmo Via Tribunali, 47. T: 081459034 that does not escape the challenges of Capri. T: 0818371499 www.dagelsomina.com GRADOLA – Via Gradola, Anacapri, Capri. T: Alba, this small corner of paradise boasts BAIA DEL CLIPPER – Via Porto, the great dishes of Italian and international 0818382326 www.gradolacapri.com just five tables. Flavours from and 48, Ischia. T: 0813334209 www. DA GIGINO – Via degli Archi, 15, Sorrento. T: cuisine, as well as offering typical dishes ristorantelabaiadelclipperischia.com 0818773446 www.dagigino.com Campania combine to create dishes boasting from Campania. Viale G. Douhet, 7, Caserta. T: I GIARDINI DI TASSO – Via Santa Maria della a unique, inimitable flavour. Vico Satriano, 12. T: 0823467494 www.lecolonnemarziale.it BARRACUDA – Via Campagnano, 62, Ischia. T: DA GIOIA – Località , Capri. T: Pietà, 30, Sorrento. T: 0818074145 08118990558 081902046 www.ristorantebarracuda.it 0818377702 www.dagioiacapri.com IL BORGO – Via Nastro Verde, 44/46, Sorrento. T: www.cantinasanteodoro.it LEON D’ORO – Tradition, meticulous service and innovation are the key words of its cuisine. BELLEVUE SYRENE – Piazza della Vittoria, 5, DA GIORGIO – Via Roma, 34, Capri. T: 0818781827 www.ristoranteilborgo.it CARMNELLA – Thanks to years of experience Sorrento. T: 0818781024 www.bellevue.it Piazza Dante, 48. T: 0815499404 0818375777 www.dagiorgiocapri.com IL BRACCONIERE – Via Falanga, Serrara Fontana, and a passion for pizza and typical Neapolitan BIANCO SUSHIBAR – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 38, Ischia. T: 081999436 cuisine, each day, thanks to a careful selection LOCANDA ‘NTRETELLA – Set within the heart DA LEOPOLDO – Via Scannella, 12, Forio, Ischia. Sorrento. T: 0818074551 www.biancosorrento. of only the finest ingredients, the venue offers of the Spanish District, it tempts diners into T: 081907086 www.ristorantedaleopoldo.it IL BUCO – Seconda rampa Marina Piccola, a warm, typically Neapolitan atmosphere. com fresh, high-quality, authentic Neapolitan D’AMORE – Via Fuorlovado, 36, Capri. T: 5, Sorrento. T. T: 0818782354 www. fare. A passion for art, the pride of a lifetime! Salita S. Anna di Palazzo. T: 081427783 www. BRUNO – Via Colombo, 157, Positano. T: 0818370665 www.damorecapri.com ilbucoristorante.it Via Cristoforo Marino, 22/23, Naples. T: 081 locandantretella.it 089875392 www.ristorantebruno.org DA PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T: IL GERANIO – Via Giacomo Matteotti, 8, Capri. T: 5537425 [email protected] MATTOZZI EUROPEO – Traditional Neapolitan BUCA DI BACCO – Via Longano, 35, Capri. T: 0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com 0818370616 www.geraniocapri.com CIRO A SANTA BRIGIDA – It’s an elegant cuisine since 1930. Not only the finest 0818370723 DA PEPPINA DI RENATO – Via Montecorvo, IL GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI – Corso Vittoria restaurant located in a unique position, deep and pizza but also BUCA DI BACCO – Via Rampa Teglia, 4, Positano. 42, Forio, Ischia. T: 081998312 www. Colonna, Ischia. T: 081991150 www. in the tranquility of one of the historical areas courteous, highly attentive service. Via T: 089875699 www.bucadibacco.it trattoriadapeppina.it giardinodegliaranci.it of the city of Naples. It is the ideal place to LUCIANA . Smothered in sauce, Marchese Campodisola, 4/8. T: 0815521323 www.mattozzieuropeo.com enjoy true Neapolitan pizza, fresh seafood excellent with bread croutons. The name CAMERA E CUCINA – Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. DA TONINO – Via Dentecala, Capri. T: IL LEONE ROSSO – Via Marziale, 25, Sorrento. T: T: 0818773530 0818376718 0818073089 www.illeonerosso.it dishes and classic cuisine. Via Santa Brigida, recalls the fishing village of Santa Lucia. MIMÌ ALLA FERROVIA – Established in1944 by

71/73. T: 0815524072 www.ciroasantabrigida.it Emilio Giugliano (Mimì) and his wife Ida. This MORSI E RIMORSI, PH_VINCENZO PELLINO

26 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 27 DINING [ DINING] DINING

IL MELOGRANO – Via G. Mazzella, 110, Ischia. T: LE AGAVI – Via Marconi, 127, Positano. T: PETER’S BEACH – Via San Francesco, Marina Flavors of Campania 081998450 089875733 www.agavi.it Piccola, Porto di Sorrento. T: 0818781879 www. petersbeach.com IL MONASTERO – Castello Aragonese, Ischia. T: LE À LA CARTE – Lungomare C. PDO Products recognized by the European Union 081992435 www.albergoilmonastero.it Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081991544 POSA POSA – Viale Pasitea, 165, Positano. T: IL PIRATA – Via Terramare, . T: 089874377 LE GROTTELLE – Via , Capri. T: 0898122377 www.hotelposaposa.com www.ristoranteilpirata.net 0818375719 POSEIDON – Via Pasitea, 148, Positano. T: IL POZZO – Via Tasso, 32, Sorrento. T: 0818774876 LE GROTTELLE – Via Zatri, 3, Sorrento. www. 089811111 www.hotelposeidonpositano.it www.ilpozzoristorante.it agriturismosorrentolegrottelle.com PULDÌ – Via degli Aranci, 13 b/c, Sorrento. T: IL QUISI – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: 0818370788 0818074038 SILANO LE SIRENE – Via Spiaggia Laurito, 24, Positano. T: The Protected Designation Semi-hard cheese made of spun paste produced www.quisisana.com 089811580 www.lesirenepositano.com PUPETTO – Via Fornillo, 35, Positano. T: with cow's milk and kept hanging in pairs 089875087www.hotelpupetto.it IL RICCIO – Via Gradola 4/6, Loc. Grotta Azzurra. LE TERRAZZE – Via Grotte dell’Incanto, of Origin (PDO) is recognized connected by a cord by the fire. It is used as a Anacapri, Capri www.capripalace.com 51, Positano. T: 089875874 www. RENDEZ VOUS – Via Camerelle, 4, Capri. T: by the European Union to table cheese or as a cooking ingredient. IL RITROVO – Via Montepertuso, 77. Loc. leterrazzerestaurant.it 0818370788 www.quisisana.com Montepertuso, Positano. T: 089812005 www. LE TRE SORELLE – Via del Brigantino, RICCIULILLO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, that have special quality www.caciocavallosilano.net ilritrovo.com 27, Positano. T: 089875452 www. Ischia. T: 081993679 www.ricciulillo.it IL SARACENO D’ORO – Via Pasitea, 254, Positano. ristoranteletresorelle.it characteristics due to the T: 089812050 www.saracenodoro.it RUCCIO – Piazza Marinai d’Italia, Sorrento. T: LIDO DEL FARO – Località Punta Carena, Capri. T: 0818074069 www.ristoranteruccio.com territory in which they are IL SOLITARIO – Via G. Orlandi, Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371798 www.lidofaro.com 0818371382 www.trattoriailsolitario.it SACRO E PROFANO – Via Tasso, 53, Sorrento. T: produced. LI GALLI – Viale Pasitea, 318, Positano. T: 08119004857 www.sacroeprofanosorrento.it IL TORCHIO – Via Campagnano, 135, Ischia. T: 089875655 www.villafrancahotel.it 081901986 www.hotelristoranteiltorchio.it SANTA CROCE – Via Nocelle, 19, Positano. T: Besides those we list, in different SAN MARZANO TOMATOES LO GUARRACINO – Via Positanesi d’America, 12, 089811260 www.ristorantesantacrocepositano. Sweet and sour taste, long shape, few seeds, ISIDORO – Via Roma, 19, Capri. T: 0818377252 Positano. T: 089875488 www.loguarracino.net com parts of the region, extra virgin www.isidorocapri.com bright red skin. It is mostly grown in the Agro L’OLIMPO – Via Falanga, 7, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. SOUL&FISH DA CATALDO – Via Marina Grande, is recognized as an Sarnese-Nocerino area in the , KUKAI CAPRI – Via Listrieri, 7, Capri. T: T: 081999566 202, Sorrento. T: 0818782170 in 41 cities in Campania. 0818370498 www.kukai.it www.ristorantedacataldo.com LO SCOGLIO DELLE SIRENE – Via Mulo, 77, Capri. exceptional product. LA BASILICA – Via Sant’Antonino, 28, Sorrento. T: T: 0818370221 www.loscogliodellesirenecapri. SPICY – Via Capo, 82, Sorrento. T: 0818079063 www.consorziosanmarzano.it 0818774790 www.ristorantelabasilica.com com www.hotelspicy.com L’ABATE – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 24, Sorrento. T: 0818072304 www.labatesorrento.it LO SMERALDO – Via Marina Grande, 12, Capri. T: TASSO – Via Correale, 11, Sorrento. T: 0818785809 0818375072 www.ristorantetasso.com LA CAMBUSA – Piazza Vespucci, 4, Positano. T: L’OSTRICARO – Via Porto, 40, Ischia. T: 081981845 TAVERNA ALLEGRA – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 089812051 www.lacambusapositano.com BUFFALO MILK MOZZARELLA PIENNOLO” TOMATOES FROM THE www.ristoranteostricaro.it 30, Sorrento. T: 0818784221 www.tavernallegra. LA CANZONE DEL MARE – Via Marina Piccola, 93, com Fresh cheese with spun dough made from VESUVIO Capri. T: 0818370104 www.lacanzonedelmare. LO ZODIACO – Piazzetta Angelo Ferraro, 2, Capri. buffalo milk and hand mixed in boiling water One of the oldest and most typical products of com T: 0818376332 www.lozodiacocapri.com TERRAZZA BOSQUET – Piazza Tasso, 34, with a spoon and a wooden stick until it becomes Campania region agriculture, such that it is also Sorrento. LA CAPANNINA – Via Le Botteghe, 14, Capri. T: LUIGI AI FARAGLIONI – Via Faraglioni, 5, Capri T: stringy. represented in the Christmas nativity scene. 0818370732 www.capanninacapri.com 0818370591 www.luigiaifaraglioni.com TERRAZZA BRUNELLA – Via Tragara, 24, Capri. T: From the processing of the whey you obtain It is sold fresh, in glass bottles or 'hung' in 0818370122 www.terrazzabrunella.com buffalo ricotta. bunches, hence the name ‘piennolo'. LA COLOMBAIA – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: LUNA – Viale Matteotti, 3, Capri. T: 0818370433 0818370788 www.quisisana.com www.lunahotel.com TERRAZZA MARZIALE – Piazza F.S. Gargiulo, 2, Sorrento. T: 0818074406 www.terrazzamarziale. www.mozzarelladop.it LA FONTELINA – Via Faraglioni, Capri. T: MAMMA GIOVANNA – Via Chiusarano, 6, Capri. com 0818370845 www.fontelina-capri.com T: 0818372057 TERRAZZA TIBERIO – Via Croce, 11/15, Capri. T: LA LANTERNA – Via San Cesareo, 23, Sorrento. T: MAMMÀ – Via Madre Serafina, 11, Capri. T: 0818781355 www.lalanternasorrento.it 0818377472 www.ristorantemamma.com 0819787850 www.capritiberiopalace.it L’ALTRO VISSANI – Via Longano, 3, Capri. T: TORRE NORMANNA – Via Diego Taiani, 4, . MARINCANTO – Via Colombo, 50, Positano. T: WHITE CILENTO FIG. 08118990575 www.laltrovissanicapri.it 089875130 www.marincanto.it T: 089877100 www.torrenormanna.net Its unique and valuable features make it well TORRE SARACENA – Via Marina Piccola, Capri. T: L’ANTICA TRATTORIA – Via P.R. Giuliani, 33, MICHEL’ANGELO – Via Sella Orta, 10, Capri. T: known abroad. It has clear yellow skin and the 0818370646 www.torresaracenacapri.com Sorrento. T: 0818071082 www.lanticatrattoria. 0818377220 fruit is texture is soft, very sweet, and amber com TRITONE – Via Campo, 5, Positano. T: 089874333 MONZÙ (PUNTA TRAGARA HOTEL) – Via Tragara, yellow. L’ARCA – Via Ciglio, 144, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: 57, Capri. T: 0818370844 www.monzucapri.it www.tritone.it Its trees, along with olive trees, characterize the 081904226 www.ristorantelarca.it UN PIANO NEL CIELO – Via Capriglione, 17, landscape of the Cilento area. MUSEO CARUSO – Via S. Antonino, 12, Sorrento. LA SPONDA – Via Colombo, 30, Positano. T: T: 0818073156 www.ristorantemuseocaruso. Praiano. T: 0898131333 www.unpianonelcielo.it 089875066 www.sirenuse.it com VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11, Sorrento. LA TAGLIATA – Via Tagliata, 22, Positano. T: T: 0818781144 www.ristorantevelabianca.com NAIMA LOUNGE BAR – Via P.R. Giuliani, 45, 089875872 www.latagliata.com Sorrento. T: 0818781425 www.naimaloungebar. VERDEMARE – Via Capo, 70, Sorrento. T: LA TAVERNA DEL LEONE – Via Laurito, it 0818782589 www.ristoranteverdemare.com 43, Positano. T: 0898123168 www. latavernadelleone.com NEXT 2 – Viale Pasitea, 242, Positano. T: VILLA RUBINACCI – Via Correale, 25, Sorrento. T: 0898123516 www.next2.it 0818073357 www.villarubinacci.it LA TERRA – Via Tagliata, 14, Positano. T: 089811179 www.ristorantelaterra.com ‘O CANONICO 1898 – Piazza Tasso, 7, Sorrento. T: VILLA VERDE – Vico Sella Orta, 6/A, Capri. T: 0818783277 www.ristorantecanonico.com 0818377024 www.villaverde-capri.com LA TINAIA – Via Matteo Verde, 39, Forio, Ischia. T: DEL www.ristorantelatinaia.it ‘O MURZILL – Via dell’Accademia, 17, Sorrento. T: WINE DARK HOUSE – Via del Saracino, 6/8, 0810202371 www.omurzill.blogspot.it Positano. T: 089811925 Semi-hard cheese made of spun paste, aged for LA TONNARELLA – Via Capo, 31, Sorrento. T: at least six months. It is produced exclusively in ‘O PURTICCIULL – Rive Droite, Ischia. T: ZI NANNINA – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 0818781153 www.latonnarella.com the with raw milk and has the 081993222 www.porticciullo.it 18, Ischia. T: 081991350 www.zinannina.com LA VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, shape of an elongated melon and a yellowish 11/13, Sorrento. T: 08187881144 www. PALAZZO MURAT – Via dei Mulini, 23, Positano. T: ZI’NTONIO – Via Luigi De Maio, 11, Sorrento. T: crust. ristorantevelabianca.com 089875177 www.palazzomurat.it 0818781623 www.zintonio.it LA VIGNA DI ALBERTO – Via , 57, Ischia. PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T: ZIQÙ – Via Provinciale Marina Grande, 191, Capri. www.provolonedelmonacodop.it T: 081901193 0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com T: 0818376630 www.villamarinacapri.com

28 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 29 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM ENTERTAINMENT AND great cup of coffee. Signature pastries include to the soft, diffused lighting given off by the brioches, crumbles, cupcakes, plum cakes, chandeliers and wall lamps from which it takes TASTING EXPERIENCES brownies, muffins and speciality cakes. Vico its name. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 34/35. T: Belledonne a Chiaia, 14b. T: 0814976400 081414576 66 FUSION BAR - It still retains the name of the former antique shop in which it is now housed. CAFFÈ ARABO – A good spot at which to CHEZ MOI - One of the most renowned hot The Fusion cocktail bar is a real hit, loved for its sample , Arab sweet treats and a Middle- spots in the city, its exclusive clientele and endless list of aperitivi. Furnished with low sofas Eastern nibble or two. At Caffè Arabo you posh decor make Chez Moi the place to visit. and soft lighting, it offers a wide choice of cold can experience a truly oriental atmosphere Featuring all the characteristics of a private club, cuts and excellent wines. Via Bisignano, 58. T: while smoking a hookah. In summer, it hosts designers, socialites and football stars, mostly 081415024 – www.66napoli.it gastronomic events accompanied by dance over 25, come here to enjoy its piano bar, disco displays and poetry readings from different and occasional cabaret acts, partying till late. AIAHII – One of the most exclusive venues in parts of the world. Piazza Bellini, 72, Naples. T: Via Parco Margherita, 13. T: 081407526 www. the city. Low-key, elegant, minimalist decor, 3398828120 chezmoi.it featuring a prevalence of steel, glass, teak tables, original lamps, ornamental plants and CAFFÈ DEL PROFESSORE – At this cafè located CLANDALU’ - A terrace overlooking the a predominantly white colour scheme. Offers in one of the city’s most elegant districts you historic Galleria Navarra. Credit for its a meat and fish-based menu, an array of can taste dozens of different coffee blends: inviting atmosphere and soft music go to its international cocktails, an excellent selection from to bas il-flavoured coffee, from charming owner Alfredo. Featuring authentic, of rum and whiskey and an astute selection of croccantino coffee to its famous rich home-cooked fare, it has hosted meetings, wines. Via Coroglio, 146. T: 3924811308 cream coffee and, naturally, traditional presentations and art exhibitions since 1997. Neapolitan espresso. Piazza Trieste e Trento, 46. Piazza dei Martiri, 23. T: 0812452398 ANHELO CAFÉ’ & BISTROT – Offers simple, T: 081403041 www.ilverobardelprofessore.com inventive, high-quality food including range ENOTECA BELLEDONNE - Established in1989 by of classic, regional dishes updated with a CAKE APPEAL – A small pastry shop with a Giovanni and Maria Scognamiglio as “Vini e Oli”, innovative twist, featuring fresh, seasonal big reputation serving made-to-order cakes, their offspring Antonio and Ciro subsequently ingredients. Anhelo is a cafè cum bistrot. Also cupcakes, macarons, cakepops, cookies, transformed this old wine cellar into one of brownies, red velvet, cheesecake and apple boasts a small food emporium. Via Bisignano, 3 – pie. The first American bakery of its kind in Naples’ best-loved wine bars where you can T: 081.402432 www.anhelo.it Campania and Naples. Via Cavallerizza, 40. T: relax, gossip and enjoy a glass of well-chosen, mostly . Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18. ARENILE RELOAD – Established in 1994 as 08119255750 www.cakeappeal.it T: 081403162 www.enotecabelledonne.com the first club in Naples with a dance floor CAMBIOVITA– Cafeteria, frullateria, health food overlooking the beach, Arenile Reload is store, take-aways, Slow , but also a FANTASIA GELATI – Few gelaterie can boast set against a breathtaking backdrop further meeting place where you can breathe the air better cream-based flavours produced with enhanced by chic design elements and a of the house. A place to take a break and take passion and painstaking attention to locally playlist of the latest hits. In the morning, it serves care of yourself sipping tea, herbal tea or a sourced ingredients. House specialities include as an elegant beach club with on-site amenities smoothie made with all biological products. fruit-flavoured and its brand new including a beach and a lawn with a swimming Via Carlo Poerio, 100/a T: 08119570395 www. innovative ice cream made from buffalo milk, pool, bar and refreshment area. As the sun sets, cambiovitastore.it characterized by its authentic flavour and it is transformed into a “viby” location offering wholesome nutritional properties. Five Fantasia CARRATURO – Now helmed by the fifth top-notch aperitivi and live performances by Gelati sales points are scattered throughout generation, this time-honoured pastry shop artists of international renown. Via Coroglio, the city. Via Toledo, 381. T: 0815511212 www. continues to defend its heritage, history 14/b. T: 0810199156 www.arenilereload.com fantasiagelati.it and the goodness of its origins. Its present AZAR CAFÉ – Snack bar, delicatessen, bakery, owners, Ulderico and Alessandro, jokingly GALLERIA 19 – This cool edgy club draws a uni bar and tea room. Surrounded by a beautiful refer to themselves as simple “sfogliatellari”. Via crowd and young Neapolitan locals. Set in a Swan lake garden, in the pedestrian area of Vomero, Azar Casanova, 97. T: 0815545364 www.carraturo.it long, cavernous cellar scattered with recycled cafè is a meeting place for quiet and relaxing, furniture dating back to the ‘60s and ‘70s and CASA INFANTE – The Infante family began to The Royal Ballet of the Moscow-Crown of , directed by Anatoly Emelyanov, brings on stage at the ideal for business meetings or for mothers with industrial lamps, the venue is also home to one titillate the palates of Neapolitans in the 1940s children looking for a safe place while enjoying of the city’s best mixologists. Expect a warm, with their “tarallo mandorle e pepe”. In the ‘90s Bellini Theatre one of the most represented ballets in the world. Music by Tchaikovsky a good cup of coffee. Via Scarlatti, 139 – T: old-world atmosphere. Via San Sebastiano, they enlarged their production to focus on 0815780248 18/19. T: 08119810100 www.galleria19.it allet in two acts and four scenes. The version, presented in 1979 at the Mariinsky great artistic experience and sophistication. high-quality patisserie, subsequently increasing Royal Moscow-Crown Ballet of Russia Theatre in St. Petersburg, was a huge success. Not only: it is the only company in the history BARFLY – Formerly an old tuft quarry, this newly their number of sales points. Today Casa Infante GAY ODIN – By now synonymous with auteur , it is impossible to pass this shop brings on stage at the Bellini Theatre, Since then, Swan Lake is one of the most of Russian ballet to have toured in East Africa: revamped restaurant and bar is the perfect offers top-notch products and artisanal ice B without taking in the heady aromas of Gay place to enjoy an aperitivo or fab cocktail while cream just waiting to be savoured. Via Chiaia, the masterpiece with music by Peter Ilyich represented ballets in the world, a show to Zambia to . nibbling on an array of delectable finger foods. 189. T: www.casainfante.it Odin’s artisanal cocoa creations displayed Tchaikovsky on the libretto of Marius Petipa. for fans of the genre but also for those who Barfly was designed by architect Demo Ciavatti, with panache in its shop window. Must-trys Today, the soloists of the Company CHALET CIRO A MERGELLINA – This iconic known for restructuring several of the most include its typically Neapolitan chocolate “cozze” Swan Lake was staged for the first time in want to immerse themselves in a magical are Viktorija Truposkiadi and Yevgeny seaside chalet has been pulling in the punters famous venues on the Romagnola Riviera. Via (), chocolate-coated coffee beans and 1877 at the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow and world, made of tulle and white shoes, on since its establishment in 1952. Boasting a Truposkiadi, dancers of the Bolshoi Theatre Mergellina, 6 T: 081.660023 – fiery chili-chocolate combo. The venue has as tradition handed down from generation to left the audience rather indifferet. For this the memorable notes of one of the greatest in Moscow. The art direction as well as the www.dugout.it many as ten sales points scattered throughout generation, it has nevertheless also embraced reason, after two years, it was revised by Russian composers of the 1800s. the city. Via V. Colonna, 15/b. T: 081418282 adaptation of the choreography and libretto BELLAVIA – In 1925, Antonio Bellavia relocated innovation to become one of the most the two great choreographers Lev Ivanov The love story between Prince Siegfried and www.gay-odin.it are by Anatoly Emelyanov. Produced by The from Palermo to Naples, bringing with him renowned chalets in Campania. Listed in several and Marius Petipa, who on this occasion the beautiful Odette, victim of a spell that Royal Ballet of Moscow - Crown of Russia. the scents, colours and flavours of a region of the most authoritative tourist guides, it sells GRAN CAFFÈ CIMMINO – A warm welcoming overcame their rivalries and together transforms her into a swan during the day known for its gastronomic culture. He soon everything from coffee and pastries to crepes place designed to make you feel good at all rewrote the choreography. and a girl at night, opposed by evil wizards began titillating several of the city’s most but the real reason to head here is for brioche times of the day. Its artisanal workshop turns Lev Ivanov supervised the so-called "white and Odile’s presence, is staged by the Royal January 21th-22th refined palates with , and other con , a sweetened bun stuffed with ice out authentic, high-quality, mouth watering specialities, a tradition that has been carried cream and topped with a dollop of cream. Via goodies, cakes and cocktails. Try its buffet acts" (II and IV) and Marius Petipa took Ballet of Moscow - Crown of Russia, the >> www.teatrobellini.it forward with unerring passion by the fourth Mergellina. T: 081669928 selection, high-class homemade ice cream and charge of the I and III acts, the "blacks acts." company founded and directed by Anatoly Teatro Bellini. Via Conte di Ruvo, 14 generation of the family who currently run the authentic Neapolitan coffee. via Filangieri, 12. T: CHANDELIER - Visual arts exhibitions, themed business. Capodichino Airport. T: 0815991603 081418303 Even the music was revised, and other songs Emelyanov. The ballet company, known Naples. T: 0815491266 parties, live music, arts and crafts and jewellery www.pasticceriabellavia.it by Tchaikovsky were included. The new across the world, counts many dancers of displays. At this stylishly furnished venue GRAN CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS – Since 1860 Caffè BIRDY’S BAKERY – Its colonial decor provides everything is done with a certain flair including Gambrinus has served as the literary salon of a light, welcoming ambience, perfect for those its delightful red and black colour scheme. the city. Formerly one of the favourite haunts wherewhereNaplesNaples .comThe new appHow helps to enjoy you yourto find stay the in best Naples, entertainment! Coast&Islands! wishing to take a pit stop while enjoying a Its atmosphere is cosy and low-key thanks of crowned heads, politicians, journalists,

30 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 31 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

academics and artists of international renown, Used to host trade shows, congresses and in town accompanied by a good selection of SUGAR QUEEN - A world of sweetness, color including the likes of Oscar Wilde and Benito RIGOLETTO events. Viale Kennedy, 54. T: 0817258000 www. fine wines and champagnes. Vico Belledonne a and creativity that involves all five senses, and Mussolini. A Liberty-style jewel of architectural mostradoltremare.it Chiaia, 27. T: 0812512215 where dreams turn into reality. Sugar Queen, note, this venerable café sits in one of the most the Queen of Cakes is a laboratory of high MOUSE - Spread out over three floors, it features www.pescheriamattiucci.com beautiful squares in Naples and still retains all of quality , design view, specialized a colour scheme based on shades of green and PINTAURO – One of the oldest pastry shops in its dreamy, Belle Époque-like aura intact. A great in making custom cakes of all kinds. Raw electric blue. Its minimalist decor and casual, Naples, it has been turning out the region’s place for a classy coffee break. Via Chiaia, 1/2, materials of superior quality and aesthetic fun feeling make it a destination venue for renowned “” since 1785, considered corner of piazza Trieste and Trento. T: 081417582 perfection of the cake design. Via Carlo Poerio, lounge culture enthusiasts. Via San Giovanni among the best in the city. Don’t miss a chance www.caffegambrinus.com 42. T: 08119138422 www.sugarqueen.it Maggiore Pignatelli, 45. T: 0815518663 to sample it while strolling through the historic GRAN CAFFÈ LA CAFFETTIERA – The favourite NAIS - Here you can read, purchase books, sip centre: crispy perfection for even the most UPSTROKE – This venue represents a launch haunt of businessmen and chic shoppers, this a cup of coffee or savour a delicious glass of discerning palates. Via Toledo, 275. T: 081417339 pad for countless emerging musicians. It is elegant venue is renowned for its high-class wine. Don’t miss its Sushi evenings with live patronized by people of all ages who have a Neapolitan pastries and . Boasting SCATURCHIO – A time-honoured pasticceria passion for music. Tuesdays are given over to elegant design elements where no detail music. Also has an Internet point. Via Giuseppe and a true “temple of taste”, this cult destination Ferrigni, 29. T: 0816580466 jam sessions. Via Coroglio, 128. T: 3294211510 has been left to chance, it is patronized by is a must for gastronomes and lovers of the crème de la crème of Neapolitan society. PALAPARTENOPE - A modern building used tradition. An institution in the art of pastry- VINARIUM - A welcoming wine bar cum trattoria, Piazza dei Martiri, 26. T: 0817644243 www. to host events, competitions, concerts, making for real connoisseurs of taste. A city Vinarium boasts one of the city’s best-stocked grancaffelacaffettiera.com performances, festivals and gala evenings. tradition for more than a century, you’ll find wine cellars (850 Italian and foreign bottles) and culinary specialities inc cheese and IL BARETTO – A landmark venue situated in one Designed to accommodate up to 6,000 people. an array of local classics ranging from coffee cosmopolitan meat dishes. Also offers a fab of the city’s most scenic areas, standouts include Via Barbagallo, 115 - T: 0815700008 www. to aperitivi, from sweet treats to savoury selection of . Via Cappella Vecchia, 7. T: its iconic “scherzetto” cocktail, made with rum, palapartenope.it delicacies. Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19. Opera in three acts by Giuseppe Verdi. Libretto by Francesco Maria Piave. An intense drama 0817644114 pear juice and strawberry syrup poured into T: 0815517031 www.scaturchio.it about love, passion, betrayal, jealousy and revenge, which involves the public allowing the PEPITA JAZZ - Top-level jazz and a good offer of two glasses, one inside the other, to be drunk food and wine but also art exhibitions, cabaret, S’MOVE - One of the most evocative musical like a shot, i.e. all at once and its Acai special, a spectators to take part in every emotion, from the first to last minute. Director: Nello Santi themed Irish and Cuban evenings and wine food bars in Naples. Bulbous lamps and THEATRES fruit pulp , powdered guaranà, royal jelly, and Jordi Bernácer. Directed by Giancarlo Cobelli. Set and costume design: Paolo Tommasi. and rum tastings. Its signature dishes include futuristic wall panels create plastic effects AUGUSTEO - One of the most famous theatres ice and ginseng. Via Aniello Falcone, 300 b/c. T: Production of the Teatro Comunale di Bologna. Orchestra and Chorus of the di San Carlo soups, fondues, cold cuts and cheese platters. that are mirrored in the curved elements in Naples, it is known for its big-budget 0815603200 Theatre. Via Martucci, 39. T: 360629808; 3333821301 of its beautiful bar counter and in its light performances including musicals, plays, From 18th January to 1st February IL FICO – This discotheque is set within a splendid PESCHERIA MATTIUCCI – On Tuesdays, reflected onto it mosaic, mother-of-pearl tiles. comedies, dance and prose. It is also home to 19th century villa. Complete with inside rooms, Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 0817972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it Thursdays and Fridays, this landmark An aperitivo hot spot in Naples, DJs spin out the Carlo Buccirosso actors’ school - piazzetta welcoming private areas and a large terrace fishmonger offers some of the best an array of jazz, funk and electro music. Vico Duca d’Aosta, 263 - 081.414243 and 081.406698 with a view over the Gulf of Naples, it is the Mediterranean seafood and raw fish dishes Sospiri, 10. T: 0817645813 - www.teatroaugusteo.it perfect place to celebrate at all times of the yea. L’EBBREZZA DI NOÈ – A brasserie-wine bar beverages. When the shop closes, you can Via Tasso, 466. T: 081640146 www.discotecailfico. combo. Only has a few tables but more than also book a romantic, chocolate-based dinner it 1,200 fab bottles. Better known for its reds than while listening to the soft, soothing notes of INTRA MOENIA - Founded in 1989 next to the its whites. Vico Vetriera, 9. T: 081400104 www. a violin. Vico Satriano, 4. T: 08119567440 www. Greek-Roman walls of piazza Bellini, from which lebbrezzadinoe.com madamebonbon.it the venue takes its name, i.e. intra moenia LE CIRQUE NAPLES – The first cafè-chantant MARSHAL - Its stylish interior, where no detail or “inside the walls”. A stylish, elegant venue in Italy has just launched in the spaces of the has been left to chance, plays on the cold offering food and wine, Intra Moenia also hosts foyer of the iconic Salone Margherita. Le Cirque shades of white and steel combined with the exhibitions, literary events, concerts and poetry is a coffee bar, a theatre, an art gallery and an warm, voluptuous shapes of Rococò furniture. readings. Piazza Bellini, 70. T: 081451652 entertainment venue. It also features a bistrot Japanese cuisine, cocktails, drinks, good wines LA GARÇONNE - The perfect place to spend restaurant. Via Santa Brigida, 65. T: 0815511756 and a great selection of music. Riviera di Chiaia, an evening in the company of friends either www.lecirquenaples.com 268. T: 3381458610 savouring the superb cuisine prepared by its LEONE – A Liberty-style venue boasting a white MOCCIA – Established in 1941, this bakery cum or enjoying an after-dinner drink animated and pastel green colour scheme. Its walls are patisserie offers an array of delectable goodies. by live or disco music. Vico S. Maria a Cappella adorned with old photographs. Its pastry chefs The venue is famed for its tiny, must-try pizzas Vecchia, 10. T: 0817643826 www.lagarconne.it start working at 4am to turn out their delectable whose recipe is a close-guarded secret. Other LA MELA - One of the oldest night club in Naples, creations. Leone exudes an aura of old-world specialities include dainty strawberry tartlets, it has been going strong for the past 30 years. charm and is renowned for its authentic, simple caramelized bignè and traditional Neapolitan A favourite with the Neapolitan elite, people ingredients. Riviera di Chiaia, 61. T: 081681542 pastries. Each day, at lunch, its rosticceria attracts come here not only to dance but also to see a hungry business crowd. Via San Pasquale, LEOPOLDO - One of the most prestigious brands 21/23. T: 081411348 fashion shows or book presentations. Via dei of Neapolitan pastries, synonymous with all the Mille, 40bis. T: 081410270 www.lamelaclub.it goodness and supreme quality of an array of MOMAH - Reminiscent of one of the most LA SCIMMIA – Synonymous with high-quality different products, ranging from sweet treats important contemporary art museums in the ice cream since 1933, in addition to its myriad to cakes, from fresh pasta to small gourmand world, namely the Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) in New York, it will thrill your senses flavours, other must-trys include its frothy delicacies, a true labour of love! Via Toledo, 8. with its steel finishes, black and white décor desserts and traditional mini ice creams. Also T: 0815512909; via Vittoria Colonna, 46/47. T: and innovative lighting system which creates serves gluten-free products for celiacs. Piazza 081416161 www.leopoldoinfante.it a trendy ambience. Via Vito Fornari, 15. T: Carità, 4; piazzetta Nilo, 4. T: 0815520272 www. LIBRI & CAFFÈ – A bookstore, bistrot, literary 081422334 www.momah.it gelateriadellascimmia.it café and meeting place in the city. A MOSTRA D’OLTREMARE - One of the largest Artist Lights LA TASCA - A cosy, intimate wine bar where entrepreneurial cultural project shared by fairgrounds in Italy and, together with Bari’s A fantastic atmosphere and magical display you can listen to soft, piped music. Also has a booksellers Colonnese and Pisanti. Piazza Fiera del Levante, the largest in . few outdoor tables and an Internet point. Vico Municipio, 69, Naples. T: 08118990753 www. of lights and colors. True art masterpieces It extends over a surface area of 720,000 square Belledonne a Chiaia, 6. T: 08119362635 teatrostabilenapoli.it installed in the most charming corners of metres and incorporates buildings of significant the city, attracting, every year, hundreds of LAZZARELLA – A landmark venue of the MADAME BONBON - A haven of handmade historical and architectural importance, Neapolitan “movida”. Open until late at night, but not only. Its upper floor houses state-of-the-art pavilions, fountains (including visitors. it serves , snacks, lunch and a fine a welcoming tea room where in addition to an the monumental Esedra Fountain), a tropical Running until 22nd January aperitivo spread in the evening from around assortment of delectable sweet treats you can aquarium, gardens hosting a wide array of 7pm. Calata Trinità Maggiore, 7/8. T: 0815510005 also sip a cup of hot chocolate, tea or other arboreal species and an archaeological park. Salerno PH. WWW.LUCIDARTISTASALERNO.NET,

32 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 33 ENTERTAINMENT MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS CIRCOLO DEI FORESTIERI - A favourite haunt with tourists from all over the world, in addition Queen at the Opera to its breathtaking panorama, it also offers all the Fifty international musicians on stage will per- flavours and specialities of the Sorrento Coast. form the music of Freddie Mercury’s famous Via Luigi de Maio, 35, Sorrento. T: 081.8773263 band “Queen” in an unreleased and engaging www.circolodeiforestieri.com mix between rock and symphonic music. CONWINUM – Jazz, food, wine and art, sensual Orchestra director: M. Luca Baggage. Lead pairings that involve all of the senses in an Violin: Prisca Amori. During previous months, elegant venue, entirely decorated with Vietri ceramics and lava stone tables. Offers live music the event was sold out in Rome, Florence and and a piano bar thoughout the week and Bologna. live music on Saturday. This venue, owned by January 18th Elio Rispoli, serves food prepared by the “Don Alfonso 1890” restaurant and features works Teatro Bellini. Via Conte di Ruvo, 14, Naples. of art lent by gallerist Antonio Miniaci. Via del T: 0815491266 www.teatrobellini.it Brigantino, Positano. T: 089811461 ECSTASY - A nightspot and piano bar situated in the heart of Ischia offering great live music. BELLINI - One of the most beautiful theatres in Europe - via San Carlo, 98 - 081.7972331 - www. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 97. Ischia. T: 081.982569 the city, it can be visited during the day. Visitors teatrosancarlo.it FAUNO - A landmark nightclub in Sorrento which, can clamber up its narrow staircase leading to since the 1950s has been a meeting place and its small rehearsal room hosting billboards of old COAST & ISLANDS destination venue for tourists, fashionistas and performances patiently collected by Tato Russo, Campania jet-setters. The dance floor can be one of the greatest actors and playwrights in AFRICANA FAMOUS CLUB - A unique, evocative accessed by an illuminated stairway covered Italy - via Conte di Ruvo, 14 - 081.5491266 - haunt, an accordion player hidden amidst the by a red carpet that anticipates the dominant www.teatrobellini.it rocks, a black band, illustrious guests like Jackie colour of the club. Piazza Tasso, Sorrento. T: Kennedy and Gianni Agnelli. For years, the 081.8781021 GALLERIA TOLEDO - Set within the heart Africana has been the setting for “La Dolce Vita” of the Spanish Districts, it is known on the GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI - An old tavern set on the coast. Via Terramare, 2, Praiano. T: Neapolitan theatre scene for its contemporary, against a magnificent natural backdrop, with 089874858 www.africanafamousclub.com experimental works and also stages pieces its marvellous plants and the architecture of by well-known international playwrights - via AL MONASTERO - The perfect place for a pit- the “palazzi” surrounding its garden are further Concezione a , 34 - 081.425824 stop, it features a terrace garden with tables enhanced by the warm welcome given by set amidst bougainvillea, broom, jasmine and patron Andrea Impagliazzo and the flavours of TEATRO MERCADANTE - It opened in 1779 verbena overlooking the ruins of the Cathedral its high-end cuisine which make it a “must-visit” as the ‘Teatro del Real Fondo di Separazione’, dell’Assunta, in the bay of Sant’Anna. Castello destination for tourist. Corso Vittoria Colonna, with comic operas sung mainly in Tuscan. The Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081992435 Ischia. T: 081.991150 www.giardinodegliaranci.it Toy stories. theatre was later used by Gioachino Rossini who became the music director of the royal ANEMA E CORE - Situated in the vicinity of the JANE - Since the very beginning it has been theatres, Giovanni Pacini and Gaetano Donizetti. famous Piazzetta, amidst prestigious boutiques a cult destination for celeb tourists. It glass- After a period of relative inactivity, in 1871 and luxury hotels, this stylish gem is tucked fronted side walls mean that you can dance From the 1700s to Barbie it was renamed the Real Teatro Mercadante away behind an “almost” hidden door, the while enjoying a fabulous view over the sea – piazza Municipio – 081.5510336 – www. entrance of one of the most highly patronized and small, adjacent beach. Via Pagoda, Ischia. T: teatrostabilenapoli.it and renowned venues on the Capri nightlife 08119515130 A delightful journey to discover the magical world of toys, from those used in the 1600s to the most scene. An exclusive, age-old wine bar, where TEATRO NUOVO - Shakespeare, Beckett and LA CAPANNINA PIU’ – Offers a great selection famous doll in the world, Barbie. Against abuse and discrimination Guido Lembo, a spokesman for the Faraglioni Pasolini are just some of the playwrights whose of wines, bubbly and distillates but also , throughout the world, entertains guests on the work has been showcased here. An extremely balsamic , superb olive oil and a rich Island of Capri from midnight to dawn. Via Sella modern theatre, It provides a stage for array of gift and wine-related accessories. Via cheerful journey to discover the importance of creative imagination, fantasy, killed by the Nazi eugenics campaign, Orta, 1, Capri. T: 081.8376461 T: 329.4742508 emerging European writers and is known for its Le Botteghe, 39, Capri. T: 0818378899 www. magical world of toys, with particular and the so-called minor art best loved by and aims at bringing out, with strength www.anemaecorecapri.it innovative approach and experimental works - capanninacapri.com Aattention to the role that play has children and families. with beauty, the joy and grace that toys via Concezione a Montecalvario, 16 - 081.425958 BLUNIGHT - An atmospheric location with a MUSIC ON THE ROCKS - For 40 years, one of always had in favor of tolerance and A segment of the exhibition is dedicated condense and feed. www.nuovoteatronuovo.it great vibe. Blunight is one of the most elegant Europe’s original superclubs, patronized by overcoming all forms of discrimination. to 'falseness' in the world of toys through The exhibition is sponsored by the and attractive discotheques in the area. Cala TEATRO POSILLIPO - An offshoot of the historic show biz celebs and international film icons. di Puolo, via Partenone, 31, Massalubrense. T: An exhibition that traces the journey of toys the educational exhibition “You don’t Department of Culture and Tourism of the landmark Posillipo cinema - a reference It is considered one of the most evocative 3384138123; 3382227911; 3392547000 from the 1700s to the second half of the kid around with toys" promoted by the City of Naples. point since the 1950s for cinema buffs - the locations in the world. Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 1900s, during which the phenomenon of "Museum of True and False" in collaboration Posillip Theatre is a versatile, elegant location CALISE – Since the Sixties, Calise has been a 51, Positano. T: 089.875874; 331.7210076 www. and events space set against the charming meeting place either for an aperitivo or dessert. musicontherocks.it the most famous doll in the world explodes, with the Public Prosecutor of Naples: Running till 19th March. backdrop of the Posillipo hill. Via Posillipo, 66 – While sitting in its stunning garden, guests can ‘O SPASSO – A discotheque located within the Barbie. starting from the display of games Mondays to Thursday, from 10am to 7pm; www.teatroposillipo.it spend a relaxing evening listening to traditional heart of the popular Bar “Calise”, of which it is an On display are over a thousand little sequestered by the police and with the help Fridays and Saturdays from 10am to Neapolitan songs. Offers a wide selection of TEATRO SAN CARLO - One of Naples’ crown integral part. This exclusive stylish venue stages masterpieces belonging to the toy Museum of interactive games, the goal is to raise 10pm; cakes (more than 50) and biscuits. Piano bar jewels, the San Carlo Theater is the Oldest live music and cabaret entertainment and caters of Naples Suor Orsola Benincasa: dolls, awareness regarding the values of legality Sundays from 10am to 7pm. entertainment every evening. Piazzale degli Eroi, Opera House in Europe. Built 41 years before to a fashionable set. This legendary nightspot Ischia. www.barcalise.it tin toys, puppets and wooden characters, and safety of consumers, above all, the La Scala in Milan and 55 years before la Fenice attracts punters of all ages. Via E. Cortese (corner board games and military games. health of children. >> Convento di San Domenico Maggiore in Venice, its design was the model on which CAMERA E CUCINA - A restaurant cum art of Piazza degli Eroi), Ischia. T: 081.881270 www. barcalise.com many, and if you ask a Neapolitan, all other gallery. A place where one eats Italian but An exhibition of international importance, The social topic plays a strong role, in Vico San Domenico Maggiore, Naples. Opera Houses would follow. Built for King talks all the languages of the world. A hub of VALENTINO - Set against one of the most including rare and clever toys, historical the exhibition. Not surprisingly, the Toy T: 081459188 Charles III in 1737, it was inaugurated on his entertainment where you will discover a host evocative, trendiest backdrops in Ischia, memories, testimonies of culture, craft skills Museum of Naples is dedicated to the name day or onomastico. With its 3,300 seats of intriguing worlds and a diverse culinary Valentino is considered a temple of and entrepreneurship, showcasing the memory of the gypsy child Ernst Lossa, and pitch perfect acoustics, it quickly became landscape in an evocative welcoming garden entertainment and good music and is currently the venue of the masters and the dream of the bar. Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T: 081.8773530 the hottest disco on the Island. Corso Vittoria hopefuls, making Naples the music capital of www.cameraecucina.it Colonna, 97, Ischia. T: 081982569 whereNaples The new app helps you to find places of culture!

34 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 35 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Neapolitan churches. Built in the mid-19th his entourage. The nucleus of the entire building MUSEUMS BLOW YOUR MIND century, its circular form is reminiscent of the is the Royal Apartment which can be accessed Pantheon in Rome. On the exterior, under a via a monumental white marble stairway with a - Lying atop a hill magnificent colonnade, you can see the statues of double ramp whose lower part is decorated with in the Vomero district, the former monastery the four cardinal virtues and the three theological allegoric bas-reliefs – Open Mon-Sun 9am- 8am dominates the entire Gulf of Naples. Founded in virtues while, at the sides of the stairway you will – piazza del Plebiscito, I - T: 081.5808111 – www. 1325 by Charles of Anjou, Duke of , over find two equestrian statues of king Ferdinand palazzorealenapoli.beniculturali.it the centuries the Charter House was enriched and his father, Charles III of Spain. Open Mon-Sat by a number of impressive artefacts including 6.45am-12-noon and 4.30pm-7.30pm - piazza del REAL ALBERGO DEI POVERI - One of the largest, marbles, frescoes, sculptures, furnishings and Plebiscito - T: 081.7645133 most imposing buildings in Europe it was paintings. A national monument since 1866, it designed by architect Ferdinando Fuga in 1751, houses the National Museum of San Martino, CITTÀ DELLA SCIENZA - The science museum at the behest of King Charles III of the House of featuring a large display of “presepi” or nativity pride of the city, which attracted thousand of SEVEN SEASONS Bourbon. Originally designed to be 600 metres scenes by masters of the Neapolitan school. Make visitors every year, was almost entirely destroyed OF THE SPIRIT long with five courtyards and a church in the sure to visit its three-tiered gardens and cloisters, by an arson attack that shook Naples, Italy and centre, due to a severe lack of funds, only the the largest of which is considered to be one of the whole world on March 4 2013. A huge Solo exhibition by Gian Maria Tosatti three innermost courtyards were built. Plans to the finest in Italy. Open Thurs-Tues 8.30am-6.30pm loss that is already being remedied with the organized by Eugenio Viola. In the complete the building according to the original – Largo S. Martino, 5 – T: 081.5781769 – www.cir. reconstruction. The pavilions that at the moment conception and realization of the project, design were finally abandoned in 1819 – Open Sat campania.beniculturali.it/museosanmartino are available are few: Science Centre, Officina dei the artist has traced the trail of the book 9.30am-12.30pm by appointment only – piazza Piccoli, Teatro Galileo 104, where it operates the GALLERIE D’ITALIA PALAZZO ZEVALLOS (Il castello interiore ) in which St. Teresa Carlo III – T: 081.5636062 cooperative Le Nuvole, the Congress Centre and STIGLIANO - The Gallerie of Palazzo Zevallos the Science Store – Open Tue-Sat 9am-3pm; Sun d’Avila divides the human soul into seven UNIVERSITÀ DEGLI STUDI FEDERICOII - This Stigliano in Naples, together with the Gallerie in 10am-5pm; closed on Monday – Via Coroglio, rooms: Tosatti has transfigured the seven establishment was founded in 1224 with the Milan’s Piazza Scala and the Gallerie of Palazzo 104 - T: 081.7352424 – T: 0817352220 – www. rooms of the chapel in as many monumental specific aim of training administrative and skilled Leoni Montanari in Vicenza, comprise the Gallerie Solo exhibition by the Serbian photographer Vladimir Milivojevich aka Boogie. The exhibition installations environmental. bureaucratic professionals for the curia regis (the d’Italia, Intesa Sanpaolo’s museum and cultural features a selection of about 80 images taken from two of the author's most acclaimed cittadellascienza.it kingdom’s governing apparatus). It was also used hub. The Gallerie houses a stunning collection of publications: 'It's all good' and 'A wah do dem'. Boogie’s photographic production is strongly COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE DI SANTA Until March 20th to prepare lawyers and judges who would help more than 120 works of Neapolitan art spanning influenced by having lived in , a country devastated by war. Boogie is a chameleon of CHIARA - It includes a Church, a Monastery and Museo Madre. Via Luigi Settembrini 79, the sovereign to draft and administer justice. Via the 17th to 18th centuries. Not only a museum street culture, able to camouflage in gory, unlawful and out of the ordinary situations. The a Convent. One of the principal monuments of Naples. T: 08119313016 www.madrenapoli.it Mezzocannone, 8 - T: 081.2531111 - www.unina.it space but also one of the city’s social and cultural exhibition is organized by Yvonne De Rosa. medieval Naples, its construction began in 1310 reference points. Tues-Fri from 10am to 6pm; Running until 1st April. Open Monday through Wednesday by appointment and Thursday at the behest of Robert of Anjou and his second VILLA COMUNALE - Its gardens run parallel to the Sat-Sun from 10am to 8pm; closed on Mondays. ORTO BOTANICO - Founded in 1807 with a decree through Saturday from 10 am to 6.30 pm. wife Sancia di Maiorca, who, both devotees of sea in via Caracciolo on reclaimed land featuring Via Toledo, 185, Naples. T: 800454229 www. signed by King Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon’s Magazzini Fotografici. Largo Proprio d’, 4, Naples. T: 3386403215 – 3313548243 St. Francis of Assisi and Santa Chiara, wanted to almost one kilometre of holm oaks, palm trees, gallerieditalia.it brother, the botanical gardens extend over a www.magazzinifotografici.it build a Franciscan citadel to house the Clarisse eucalyptus trees and spacious flowerbeds MAMT. MEDITERRANEAN MUSEUM OF ART, nuns in the monastery and the Friars Minor in surface area of almost 12 hectares. Dedicated embellished by Neo-classical sculptures, fountains MUSIC AND TRADITIONS - The Museo the adjacent convent. Behind the church is the botanists will be impressed with its rich collection 7.30pm - via Tito Angelini, 22 - T: 081.2294401 and buildings including Casina Pompeiana and Mediterraneo dell’Arte, della Musica e delle MONUMENTS & Cloister of the Clarisse, the monastery’s main of almost 10,000 species of plants including - www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it/museo_ the Cassa Armonica. Designed by Carlo Vanvitelli Tradizioni (MAMT) celebrates the culture of cloister, strikingly decorated with bright majolica those from the major American, African, Asian PLACES OF INTEREST se/museo_se.html the Villa Comunale was built in the 1780s by 43 Mediterranean cultures by way of images, tiles and considered a masterpiece of Neapolitan and Australian deserts. Open Mon, Tues and Fri Bourbon King Ferdinand IV as a “Royal Garden” objects and original documents provided by CASTEL DELL’OVO - According to ancient CHIESA DEL GESÙ NUOVO - Erected by the Jesuits art. Open Mon/Sun 7.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- 9am-2pm by appointment only; Wed -Thurs Neapolitan legend, its name stems from the for members of the royal family. Following their Heads of State and Governments. Five between 1584 and 1601, its façade is actually 8pm - T: 081.7971231 - Complesso monumentale 9am-2pma - via Foria, 223 - T: 081.2533937 - www. egg which Virgil, the Latin poet, supposedly hid restoration work by Milanese architect Mendini floors of exhibits, photographs and paintings; an part of a 15th century Renaissance palace. Its - weekdays 9.30am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun and public ortobotanico.unina.it in its foundations to support the fortifications. with coloured chalets and a gold gate, it assumed area dedicated to the daily prayers of Christians, holidays 10am-2.30pm - T: 081.5516673 - T: The place where the egg was preserved was interior is spacious and light with a rich covering PALAZZO REALE - Envisaged as a 16th century a more modern appearance. The centre of the villa Muslims and Jews; a library; a newspaper library closed by heavy locks and kept secret because of coloured marbles and typical Florid Neapolitan 081.7971224 - via S. Chiara, 49C - www.santachiara. monument to Spanish glory, it was erected at houses the Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn, an and a music hall dedicated to Neapolitan artists it was believed that all the facts and fortunes of frescoes. After the church was ravaged by fire info - www.monasterodisantachiara.com the behest of viceroy Fernandez Ruiz de Castro important research centre and home to one of Peppe and Concetta . MAMT also houses the Castel Marino depended upon it. From that time in 1639, Cosimo Fanzago was commissioned to - Known as the Duomo di San Gennaro or who, in 1599, decided to build a palace capable the oldest aquariums in Europe. Open Mon-Sun International Pizza Museum, the majestic “Totem onwards, the fate of the castle and the entire city, carry out restoration works that gave the Church a Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, the Cathedral was of lavishly hosting his sovereign, king of Spain and 7am-12-midnight - piazza Vittoria - T: 081.7611130 of Peace” created by sculptor Mario Molinari and was linked to that egg. The castle’s fortifications Baroque appearance. Its interior boasts a number and terrace offer a breathtaking view over the erected at the end of the 13th century by Charles of magnificent frescoes while its chapels feature gulf – Open Mon-Sat 8am-7pm, Sun 8am-2pm – of Anjou. Its present appearance is the result of the works of renowned artists of the calibre Borgo Marinaro – T: 081.2400055 the numerous modifications that took place over of and Giuseppe Ribera. the centuries, partially altering its original Gothic - Also known as Maschio Particularly worthy of note are its sculptorial work form. Off the right aisle of the nave is the Chapel Angioino, it is one of the most recognizable and polychrome marble floor. Open Mon-Sun of St. Januarius (Capella di San Gennaro), that also symbols of the city built in 1279 by Charles I, 7am-12.30pm and 4pm-7.30pm - piazza del Gesù MUSEO ARSENALE DI AMALFI. The Arsenale and rare Neapolitan and foreign paintings. Via MUSEO DELLA LIGNEA. An original functions as the cathedral treasury (Tesoro) and was the naval shipyard of the ancient republic museum cum workshop preserving and king of Naples, as a royal residence for the House - T: 081.5518613 Correale, 50, Sorrento. T: 0818781846 www. of Anjou. From the time that it was built, it was is elaborately decorated with Baroque art – Open of Amalfi (from 1059 onwards). It still retains museocorreale.it documenting the production of wooden inlay CHIESA DI SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE - Charles Mon-Sat 8am-12.30pm and 4.30pm-7pm, Sun its original structures intact and, today, is crafted by time-honoured Sorrento artisans termed “New” to distinguish it from the older MUSEO DEL CENTRO CAPRESE IGNAZIO Castles of Ovo and Capuano. Worthy of note are II of Anjou began the extensive rebuilding 8am-1.30pm and 5pm-7.30pm – via Duomo, 147 the only shipyard of the period that can which also promotes the new contemporary CERIO. It offers visitors a chance to learn more production of design objects and furniture. Via its underground passages, its two towers and its that produced the Church of San Domenico – T: 081.449097 be visited in the Mediterranean area. Largo Maggiore. The work was done between 1238 and Cesareo Console, 3, Amalfi. T: 089871170 www. about the origins of Capri and the fossils found San Nicola, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818771942 www. courtyard, from which you can enjoy a fabulous GALLERIA UMBERTO I - A mammoth steel and 1324, but the church has undergone extensive museoarsenaleamalfi.it in its rocks. Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 5, Capri. T: alessandrofiorentinocollection.it view, its gallery and Piazza d’armi. glass masterpiece built on the site of an entire modifications over the centuries, including one 0818376681 www.centrocaprense.org MUSEO DIEFENBACH. Named after the Open Mon-Sat 9am - 7pm - via Vittorio Emanuele block that was razed to the ground following MUSEO CASA ROSSA. Situated in the historic in 1670 that recast the structure in the style of the MUSEO DEL CONTADINO. Situated in the hilly eponymous symbolist artist to whom it pays III - T: 081.7955877 the cholera epidemic of 1884. The Galleria was centre of Anacapri, it houses a rich communal Baroque. In the 19th century, however, the church district of Panza, it is dedicated to the tools and tribute. The museum hosts large evocative CASTEL SANT’ELMO - The first documented built as part of a program of renovation and collection of 19th century paintings, an was restored to its original Gothic design and is lifestyles of peasant society. Via Mario D’Ambra, paintings portraying a variety of subjects information regarding the castle dates back to modernization of the city which began with the excursus into the places that have made a motley combination of the two styles. Among 16, Forio, Ischia. T: 081907246 www.dambravini. alongside statues dating back to Roman times 1275. This star-shaped castle was originally a Unification of Italy when a tender was put out. The Capri famous throughout the world thanks to depicting marine divinities. Via Certosa, Capri. the many artistic points of interest in the basilica com church dedicated to St. Erasmus. In 1329 it was winning project envisaged four large buildings the artworks created by the countless artists T: 0815788418 are the frescoed ceiling by Francesco Solimena enlarged at the behest of Robert of Anjou, who joined to each other by an arcade designed by who visited the Island during that period. Via MUSEO DELLA CARTA. A place where and sculptorial works, including the high altar by MUSEO MARTE. Four floors spread out over a transformed it into a real palatium for himself and the engineer Paolo Boubée. Measuring 15 metres Giuseppe Orlandi, 78, Anacapri. T: 0818382193 everything regarding the ancient art of Cosimo Fanzago – Open Mon-Sun 8.30am-12- surface area of 2,500 sq.m. A multi-functional his court. Later Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de in width and 57 metres in height, the galleria was handcrafted paper in Amalfi is disseminated, noon and 4.30pm-7pm – piazza S. Domenico MUSEO CORREALE DI TERRANOVA. A splendid space that hosts exhibitions, cultural events, Toledo had it further fortified in 1538. Used as a built between 1887 and 1890 and is a wonderful divulged and documented. Via delle Maggiore, 8 – T: 081.459188 dwelling decorated like an ancient noble meetings performances and tastings. Corso military prison until the 1970s, in 1976 important late Victorian marriage of technology with art. The residence, featuring magnificent furniture, Cartiere, 23, Amalfi. T: 0898304561 www. Umberto I, 137, Cava dei Tirreni. T: 0899481133 restoration work on the castle began, returning CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO DI PAOLA - One Galleria has four access points: via San Carlo, via refined European and Oriental porcelains museodellacarta.it www.marteonline.com it to its original structure. Open Wed-Mon 8.3am- of the most characteristic and famous of all Santa Brigida, via Giuseppe Verdi and via Toledo.

36 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 37 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

THE SPLENDOR OF A KINGDOM the Anatomical Machines, the Chapel represents one of the most unique monuments ever to have been built. Was built at the end of the 16th century by Raimondo di Sangro, the seventh prince of Sansevero. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am – 6.30pm; Sun and public holidays 9.30am-2pm; Closed on Tuesday – via Francesco De Sanctis, 19 – T: 081.5518470 – www.museosansevero.it MUSEO DEL TESORO DI S. GENNARO - The masterpieces displayed document the extraordinary expertise of sculptors, chisselers and assemblers who created works of art from the 14th century onwards. Open Tues-Sat 9am- A monographic exhibition dedicated 5.30pm, Wednesday - only by reservation - via to Salvatore Fergola, Neapolitan artist Duomo, 147 - T: 081.294980, T: 081.3442286 - www. protagonist of the Neapolitan scene of the museosangennaro.com early nineteenth century, when Naples, at GALLERIE D’ITALIA the time capital of the Kindom of the two - Located in the PALAZZO ZEVALLOS STIGLIANO Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte, the museum Sicilies, had a period of splendor under the was created by Charles VII who had inherited The Gallerie of Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano in dynasty of the Bourbons. Showcasing five from his mother the extraordinary collection of Naples, together with the Gallerie in Milan’s hundred paintings and several drawings by art belonging to the Farnese family, one of the Piazza Scala and the Gallerie of Palazzo the artist, many of which have never been most important families of Renaissance Italy. Leoni Montanari in Vicenza, comprise the exhibited before, arriving from prestigious The variety of its collections, including paintings, Gallerie d’Italia, Intesa Sanpaolo’s museum institutions and private collections. sculptures, drawings, weapons, decorative arts, is and cultural hub. From Tuesday to Friday from 10am to 6pm; owed to this period. The museum also houses The Gallerie houses a stunning collection Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 8pm. a section dedicated to contemporary art. Open of more than 120 works of Neapolitan art Closed on Monday. Special opening: January Thurs-Tues 8.30am-6.30pm; 7.50 euros - via , spanning the 17th to 18th centuries. Star 1th, 2th and 6th. 2 - T: 081.7499111 - www.polomusealenapoli. attractions include the Martyrdom of St Gallerie d’Italia - Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano. beniculturali.it/museo_cp Via Toledo, 185, Naples. T: 800454229 Ursula, Judith Beheading Holophernes MUSEO MADRE - The Donna Regina attributed to Flemish artist Louis Finson, [email protected] Contemporary Art Museum (M.A.D.RE) takes its Samson and Delilah by Artemisia www.gallerieditalia.com name from the building in which it is housed, Gentileschi and Saint George by Francesco namely Palazzo Donnaregina. Partially opened Guarini. a section dedicated to architecture. Via Depretis, in 2005, it was completed in 2007 when 130. T: 3408062908 www.mamt.it the exhibition spaces were enlarged by the The museum’s fine collection of landscape Portuguese architect, Alvaro Siza. A medley of paintings, a movement that flourished MAV. VIRTUAL ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM OF 18th and 19th century architecture, it has two during the 19th century, includes four HERCULANEUM - A trip into the past thanks to courtyards and overlooks a part of the 5th and 6th a multi-sensorial experience which will enable paintings by Dutch artist Gaspar van Wittel. century B.C. city walls which can be seen under visitors to learn about and discover the historic A first section is dedicated to landscapes the floor of the ticket office. Open Mon, Wed, realities of Herculaneum and Pompeii prior to and the School of Posillipo, with canvases Thurs, Fri and Sat 10am-6.30pm, Sun 10am-8pm the eruption in 79 A.D. At the Virtual Museum by Anton Smink Pitloo, Giacinto Gigante, – via Settembrini, 79 – T: 081.19313016 – www. of Archaeology (or MAV), sited 100 metres from Salvatore Fergola, Domenico Morelli as well the ruins of the former settlement, visitors will madrenapoli.it as many others. From here we move to the be transported into a virtual context faithfully PAN - Housed in the 18th century Palazzo recreated thanks to the use of avant-garde digital Naturalism of the Resina School right up to Roccella on via dei Mille, the gallery offers vast the more individual experiences of late 20th technology, where they will be given a one-of-a- exhibition space, consultation areas, services kind perspective of what life there was really like century artists. Another section explores and tools targeted at the study of the works without having to trek around the actual ruins in areas of the city with the depiction of the and protagonists of contemporary art forms: a bid to help preserve one of Italy’s most beautiful from painting to sculpture, from architecture interiors of monumental buildings and and fragile archaeological sites. Open Tue-Sun communal spaces. The exhibition ends with 9.30am-5p- via IV Novembre, 44, Ercolano - T: to photography, from design to cinema, from a collection of works by Vincenzo Gemito: 081.19806511 www.museomav.it video-art to cartoons. Open Wed-Sat and Mon 9.30am-7.30pm, Sun and public holidays 9.30am- a series of bronze and terracotta sculptures MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE - The 2.30pm - via dei Mille, 60 - T: 081.7958605 - www. as well as drawings that chronicle his National Museum, at the Piazza Museo, with its palazzoartinapoli.net extraordinary artistic parabola. Roman and Greek sculptures, contains one of the most valuable archaeological collections in Italy. UNDERGROUND NAPLES - This is the other face Not only a museum space but also one It hosts more than 3,000 objects and hundreds of of Naples, the one that has withstood the tests of the city’s social and cultural reference thousands of relics dating back to the Prehistoric of time, far-removed from the hustle and bustle points, the Gallerie of Palazzo Zevallos and Late Antiquity, originating from ancient sites of the vibrant city. In its underground passages Stigliano also host temporary exhibitions, in Southern Italy and also includes the Farnese and walls made from yellow tuff, the stone that concerts, symposiums, conventions as well collection which belonged to the Bourbon Naples is built on, you can still see the indelible as a wide offer of educational activities. family, founders of the museum. Open Wed-Mon signs and traces of its past history, from the birth 9am-7.30pm - piazza Museo Nazionale, 19 - T: of Neapolis to the Second World War. The tour >> Tues-Fri from 10am to 6pm; 081.4422149 - www.museoarcheologiconapoli.it of Underground Naples lasts for about 2 hours. Sat-Sun from 10am to 8pm; MUSEO CAPPELLA SANSEVERO – Thanks to Multilingual guides available. Open Mon-Sun closed on Mondays famous masterpieces including the Veiled Christ, 10am-6pm, Thurs also until 9pm; piazza San known throughout the world on account of the Gaetano, 68 – T: 081.296944 – T: 340.4606045 – T: Via Toledo, 185, Naples. T: 800454229 Disinganno (The Release from Deception) and 3348197912 – www.napolisotterranea.org www.gallerieditalia.it

38 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 WHERE NOW | EPIPHANY

also has to do with agricultural tradition. It is said that in the twelfth night after Christmas, January 5th, Mother Nature, tired from all the energy spent during the past year, appeared in the form of an old woman flying through the sky on a broom, thin, ready to be burned as a dry branch and to be reborn from the ashes in the form of regenerated nature. For this reason, in this period, in the country, the rituals to drive away the evil from the fields are different. It is common practice to light fires from dead leaves, for example, or light up straw puppets representing an old lady. The Epiphany marks the end of the holiday season. A festivity somewhere between the sacred and the profane, which in Naples is celebrated with a solemn mass in the cathedral, although it is now considered the traditional festivity of children, who wait all night for the Befana to fill their stockings full of candy. Many events are organized in the city to celebrate the Epiphany.

The morning of January 6th, the Epiphany arrives in Piazza del Plebiscito to give sweets to all the children who he Epiphany holiday is linked to the adoration of then can visit “Pompieropoli”, a course the Three Wise Men, three priests who came to set up by the City of Naples and the Fire In Naples Bethlehem from the East, twelve days after Christmas, Department to teach children safety to bring gifts to baby Jesus. During the trip in which through fun games. they followed the star of Bethlehem, the Magi kings The Via Caracciolo promenade, instead, it’s Befana time! knockedT on the Epiphany’s door, an ugly, old, hunchbacked lady, will welcome street performers and to ask for directions to Bethlehem. She showed them the way, water shows A journey between sacred and profane but, despite their insistence, she did not go looking for them >> www.comune.napoli.it because she had too many chores to finish. After the Wise Men to discover one of the main Christian were gone, however, she decided to join them: not being able to ‘The witch has arrived', is also a ‘sweet’ holidays. Appointments with the sweet find them anywhere, she knocked on every door, leaving a gift to party for children, which will take place each child in hope that one of them were Jesus. Since then she in the Science Center on the morning little old lady in town: concerts, childrens’ has continued to bring gifts for millennia. of January 6th. Educational workshops, shows and events Even today this ugly, old, hunchbacked lady with a hooked nose experiments, magic shows, tastings and pointed chin with a hairy mole, dressed in rags, enters all and workshops are held by chocolate homes through the chimney to put gifts and sweets in children’s masters of Perugina and the taste of stockings: she leaves candy and cookies to the good ones and Naples City. pieces of coal to the bad ones. Free entry for children The origin of the Epiphany celebration is not only religious but >> www.cittadellamusica.it

40 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 41 ESSENTIALS Underground Network and Urban Railway System

Discover Naples By Metro and Funicular

CLOSED UNTIL 2017

WHERE WAS FOUNDED IN 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion.

www.wheretraveler.com 43 44 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 45 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS

Sorrento-Capri (Caremar) For every need ask your concierge. Costiera’s tour (Positano, , Amalfi, Sorrento How to reach Vesuvian area NAPLES 7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm round trip no time limit back in the day): € 220,00 VESUVIUS Capri-Sorrento (Caremar) By train For the entrance to Porta Marina and Piazza How to reach Vesuvio (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for 7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm Esedra, Pompeii, Naples-Sorrento visit): € 90,00 Sorrento-Capri (Gescab) (Pompeii Villa dei Misteri stop; For the entrance to Coast&Islands EMERGENCY Sorrento (one way): € 100,00 7.15am – 8.05am – 8.10am – 8.30am – 8.45am – 9am Piazza Anfiteatro, Pompeii, Santuario Stop; for Carabinieri T: 112 (round trip with 2 hours – 9.15am – 9.40am – 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.10am Herculaneum, Herculaneum stop; for , Torre SORRENTO City Police T: 113 stop waiting for visit): € 100,00 – 11.25am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 1.50pm – 2.25pm – Annunziata stop Fire Brigade T: 115 Roma Fiumicino (one way): € 350,00 ISCHIA POSITANO 3.45pm – 4.10pm – 4.40pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm Ambulance T: 118 City tour (scenic area, gulf, historic centre, Campi By bus from Naples and from Salerno CAPRI Capri-Sorrento (Gescab) Sea rescue T: 1530 Flegrei’s scenic area): € 70,00 By car A3 Naples-Salerno (Pompeii exit to Pompeii; 8am – 8.55am – 9.15am – 9.25am – 10.05am – 10.20am Passports Questura di Napoli - via Medina, 75. Herculaneum exit to Herculaneum; POSITANO SORRENTO – 11.20am – 11.40am – 12.10am – 1pm – 1.55pm T: 081.7941111 AIRPORTS Sud exit to Oplontis) By car from Naples: Autostrada A3, Vietri sul By car from Naples: statale 145 – 3.15pm – 3.35pm – 3.55pm – 4.05pm – 4.20pm – Lost and Found at Stazione Napoli Centrale: via Capodichino - (7 km from the centre of Naples- Mare exit. From here take the statale 163 By train: Circumvesuviana from Napoli to 5.15pm – 5.35pm – 5.45pm – 6.35pm Jacopo De Gennaro, 96/98. T: 081.7956197 tangenziale di Napoli direction ). INFORMATION TO VISIT By bus from Naples: Sita spa T: 089487001 Sorrento Sorrento-Capri (Alilauro) Left Luggage at Capodichino Airport T: 199280180 Flight and bus info: 848.888777 (call center) - from 7.15am – 8.05am – 8.45am – 9.50am – 10.20am – POMPEII Access routes: Porta Marina, Piazza mobile phones T: 081.7515471 - www.portal. TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION 10.45am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 3.50pm –4.45pm – Anfiteatro and Piazza Esedra gesac.it 5.45pm TRAINS T: 081.8575111 Carabinieri: T: 089875011 Carabinieri: T: 089875011 Ferrovie dello Stato - Trenitalia Railway Company Croce Rossa Italiana: T: 089811912 Emergency Medical: T: 0815331111 Capri-Sorrento (Alilauro) HERCULANEUM Access routes: Corso Resina, 1 - Info: 892021 - www.trenitalia.com - luggage Vigili Urbani: T: 089875277 Taxi: T: 0818782204 8am – 9.25am – 10.20am – 11.20am – 11.40am – CITY TOURS T: 081-7324311 storage T: 081.5672181 Citysightseeing Naples - (48 hour HOP ON HOP Municipality: T: 0898122511 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818074033 12.20am – 3.05pm – 3.15pm – 4.20pm – 5.15pm – Italo - Italy’s newest high-speed train connects 9 OFF ticket) via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 32. T: OPLONTI Access routes: Via dei Sepolcri, Torre 6.35pm ISCHIA CAPRI Italian cities including Florence, Rome, Naples 081.5517279 Annunziata T: 0818575347 Sorrento-Ischia (Alilauro) 9.30am – 3.50pm and Milan (Garibaldi FS) - www.italotreno.it www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it By boat, from Naples: molo Beverello to By boat from Naples: molo Beverello (80 Ischia-Sorrento (Alilauro) 10.35am – 5.25pm Ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio (1 hour, 40 minutes by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil), from departures: Piazza Municipio, Largo Castello to Beverello: 7.10am – 9.45am – 10.30am – 12.30am – Sorrento-Positano (Alilauro) 10.30am – 2.55pm minutes by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil); molo molo Mergellina (40 minutes by hydrofoil), from 1.50pm – 3.15pm – 5.40pm – 6.30pm Positano-Sorrento (Alilauro) 12.25am – 5pm Mergellina to ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio Sorrento (40 minutes by ferry, 20 minutes by CAR RENTAL Napoli-Forio (Ischia) (Alilauro) Ischia-Capri (Alilauro) 10.40am AVIS (40 minutes by hydrofoil); from Pozzuoli to hydrofoil) CONNECTIONS WITH from Beverello Capri-Ischia (Alilauro) 4.40pm Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7805790 - Corso Casamicciola (60 minutes by ferry, 50 minutes ISLANDS AND 7.35am – 9.40am – 10.50am – 12.50am – 2.35pm – Ischia-Capri (Gescab) 10.35am Novara, 5. T: 081.284041 - via Piedigrotta, 44. by motorboat) TOURIST INFORMATION 5.35pm – 8.05pm Capri-Ischia (Gescab) 4.40pm T: 081.7618354 www.avisautonoleggio.it SORRENTO Carabinieri: T: 0818370000 Forio (Ischia)-Napoli (Alilauro) Amalfi-Capri (Alilauro) 9.30am DOLLAR RENT A CAR TOURIST INFORMATION Emergency Medical: T: 0818381259 HYDROFOILS to Beverello: 6.50am – 9.15am – 11.20am – 1pm – Capri-Amalfi (Alilauro) 4.25pm Aeroporto di Capodichino - T: 081.7896252 Carabinieri: T: 081991001 Taxi: T: 0818370543 Napoli-Capri (Caremar) 3.50pm – 4.30pm – 6.50pm Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 8.55am www.dollarrentacar.com Taxi: T: 0818782204 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818375308 from Beverello: 5.35am – 12am – 5.25pm – 9.35pm Napoli-Ischia (Caremar) Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 5.15pm HERTZ Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0815074211 Capri-Napoli (Caremar) from Beverello: 8.40am – 11.45am – 1.10pm – 2.45pm – Positano-Capri (Alilauro) 10am Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7802971 - piazza to Beverello: 10.20am – 3.35pm – 8.15pm – 11pm Capri-Positano (Alilauro) 4.25pm Sannazzaro, 142. T: 081.7612168 - www.hertz.it 6.15pm – 9.15pm Napoli-Capri (Gescab) Ischia-Napoli (Caremar) Positano-Capri (Gescab) 915am MAGGIORE from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am – ASK YOUR CONCIERGE Capri-Positano (Gescab) 5.15pm Aeroporto Capodichino T: 081.7803011 to Beverello: 6.45am – 10.15am – 1pm – 2.30pm – 9.30am – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am – 11.35am 4.25pm – 7.45pm www.maggiore.it – 12.40am – 2pm – 2.40pm – 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm FERRIES Napoli-Ischia (Alilauro) An interview with Paolo Cicatiello, Night Concierge at the Hotel Europa – 8pm from Beverello: 7.35am – 9.05am – 9.40am – 10.50am Napoli-Capri (Caremar) TAXI Capri-Napoli (Gescab) – 12.10am – 12.55am – 2.35pm – 3.30pm – 5.20pm – in Caserta and a member of the Golden Keys Association of Hotel from Porta di Massa: 7.55am – 12am – 12.40am – to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am – How to catch a taxi in Naples. From the hotel: call 5-55pm – 8.20pm Concierges in Campania. 7.10pm the concierge. 10.10am – 1 0.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am Ischia-Napoli (Alilauro) Capri-Napoli (Caremar) While out and about in the city, call for a taxi – 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm – to Beverello: 6.30am – 7.10am – 8.40am – 9.35am – to Porta di Massa: 5.40am – 9.45am – 2.30pm on: Consortaxi 081.5525252, Free Radio 5.10pm – 5.35pm – 6.10pm 11am – 11.45am – 1.20pm – 2pm – 3.20pm – 4.15pm What is the strangest request you’ve ever Our region is full of history and culture, it mostly Napoli-Casamicciola (Ischia) (Caremar) Taxi 081.5515151, Partenope 081.5560202, Napoli-Capri (Snav) – 4.50pm – 7.10pm received from a client? depends on the guests’ preferences. The narrow from Porta di Massa: 3.45pm Cooperativa Tassisti 081.5510964, from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am – Napoli-Ischia (Alilauro) streets of Naples, however, are always highly Casamicciola-Napoli (Caremar) 9.30am – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am – 11.35am I’ve never received strange requests. Guests are to Porta di Massa: 12.55am Radiotaxinapoli 081.5564444, Radiotaxi Cotana from Mergellina: 7.10am – 12.30am – 6.15pm popular. 081.5707070. – 12.40am – 2pm – 2.40pm – 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm Ischia-Napoli (Alilauro) always demanding when they arrive in Napoli-Ischia (Caremar) Urban fixed rates: – 6.10pm – 8pm to Mergellina: 8am – 2pm – 3.20pm – 3.35pm – 5.20pm a hotel: it is our job to empathize What do you think is the from Porta di Massa: 6.15am – 9.25am – 10.45am – From/To Capodichino Airport/Lungomare Hotels: Capri-Napoli (Snav) – 7.10pm with them. main quality that a 3.10pm – 3.45pm – 5.30pm – 7.25pm – 9.55pm to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am – Ischia-Napoli (Caremar) € 23,00 Napoli-Sorrento (Alilauro) concierge should have? From/To Capodichino Airport/Mergellina: € 23,00 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am 9am – 11am – 1pm – 3.05pm – 5.15pm What is the nationality to Porta di Massa: 7am – 10.15am – 12.55am – 1.50pm From/To Capodichino Airport/Molo Beverello: € – 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm – Sorrento-Napoli (Alilauro) of the tourists you The predisposition to – 3.20pm – 5.20pm – 7.25pm – 8.15pm 19,00 5.10pm – 6.10pm – 7.10pm 8.10am – 10am – 12am – 2pm – 4.25pm prefer? hospitality. He must be Napoli-Ischia (Medmar) From/To Capodichino Airport/Piazza Municipio: € Napoli-Casamicciola (Ischia) (Snav) Sorrento-Amalfi (Alilauro) from Porta di Massa: 8.35am – 10.05am – 2.10pm – In our business you a true host, become a 19,00 from Beverello: 8.25am – 9.20am – 11.30am – 12.30am 10.30am – 2.55pm 4.50pm – 7pm – 9.30pm reference point for the From/To Capodichino Airport/Central Station: € – 1.30pm – 4.20pm – 5.10pm – 7pm Amalfi-Positano (Alilauro) cannot have preferences. Ischia-Napoli (Medmar) 15,00 Casamicciola (Ischia)-Napoli (Snav) 11.55am – 4.35pm Everyone carries hotel guests, meet all their to Porta di Massa: 6.25am – 7.45am – 10.35am – From/To Central Station/Mergellina: € 13,50 something special. The needs with discretion and 2.30pm – 5pm – 6.50pm From/To Central Station/Lungomare Hotels: € 11,50 Positano-Capri (Gescab) 10am Japanese, however, are confidentiality. From/To Central Station/Molo Beverello: € 10,50 Getting Around Ticket Capri-Positano Gescab) 4.25pm Extra-urban fixed rates: Single ticket: € 1.00 different from all others: they You have been elected Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 9.30am Ravello (one way): € 135,00 Naples Ticket validity (valid for 90 minutes): € 1.50 always bow to thank you and love concierge of the Year in 2016. Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 4.25pm Amalfi (one way): € 130,00 Day ticket: € 3.50 In addition to the metro (underground) system, to photograph everything. What did this prize mean to you? The times shown are those listed on the Ercolano (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for Weekly ticket: € 12.00 cited in the listings, Naples is also covered by websites of individual cruise companies. visit): € 70,00 What do you recommend your guests to I'm flattered. The experience improves us and this numerous bus routes. Where Naples declines all responsibility for Ercolano and Pompei (round trip with 3 hours stop visit, in Campania? repays me of the sacrifices made over the years. unexpected changes in running times. For more information regarding Naples’s public Where to purchase your ticket: waiting for visit): € 130,00 Alilauro www.alilauro.it transport system: Pompei (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for from all authorized ticket sellers, ANM points Caremar www.caremar.it and automatic ticket machines in underground visit): € 90,00 FOR ANY REQUIREMENT OR WISH THAT YOU MIGHT HAVE, ASK YOUR CONCIERGE! Gescab www.gescab.it ANM - Azienda Napoletana Mobilità stations. Positano (one way): € 120,00 www.lechiavidorocampania.org Medmar www.medmargroup.it www.anm.it - T: 800639525 Snav www.snav.it

46 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 47 [ WHERE TO GO] Shopping districs

Fashion Outlets The best shopping brands, but also a wide selection of food and beverage services for families and all consumers. All this in two main Campania outlets, suggested by “Where” Naples. A complete shopping, entertainment and relax experience, with an eye to quality and discounts, present all year around thanks to offers that meet the needs all types of customers.

CILENTO OUTLET Cilento Outlet Village LA REGGIA DESIGNER La Reggia Designer Outlet VILLAGE Strada Statale 18 Tirrena OUTLET Marcianise A small shopping village in Inferiore, km 79+250, A short distance from the Caserta Sud, Marcianise (CE). the heart of Cilento. Important (Salerno). T: 0828347497 Vanvitelli Royal Palace of T: 0823510244 Italian brands, well-known >> [email protected] Caserta, the best Italian and >> info.lareggia@ international brands and >> www.cilentooutlet.com international fashion brands, mcarthurglen.com a variety of cozy bars and concerts, events, and a rich >> McArthurGlen.it/ restaurants. 30% minimum and diverse range of catering. Marcianise discounts all year around Throughout the year, sales with and reductions up to 70% at HOW TO GET THERE discounts from 35% to 70%. HOW TO GET THERE the end of the season. Open By car: Autostrada Salerno- The center is open seven days a By car: Take the Rome-Naples Monday to Friday from 10 to , exit ; week from 10 to 21. A1, exit Caserta; Shuttle service 20; Saturday and Sunday from By treno: Battipaglia Station; from Naples or Sorrento; 10 to 21. By plane: Internarional Airport By train: Napoli-Roma-Cassino of Naples, Capodichino Line to Caserta

48 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I JANUARY 2017 WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE NAPLES StarHotels Terminus. Piazza Garibaldi, 91 Ariston. Via Laura, 13 84040 Capaccio/ (SA) Grand Hotel Parkers. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 135 80142 Naples (NA) Art Hotel Gran Paradiso. Via Catigliano, 9 - 80067 80121 Naples (NA) Una Hotel Napoli. Piazza Garibaldi, 9-10 Sorrento (NA) Grand Hotel Vesuvio. 80133 Naples (NA) Aurora. Piazzale dei Protontini, 7 – 84011 Amalfi (SA) Via Partenope, 45 - 80121 Naples (NA) Best Western Hotel Esplanade. Via Poseidonia, 291 Romeo. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45 3 STAR SUPERIOR NAPLES 84063 Paestum (SA) 80133 Naples (NA) Hotel Airone. Via del Cerriglio, 108 Continental Ischia. Via M. Mazzella, 70 80134 Naples (NA) 80077 Ischia (NA) 4 STAR DELUXE NAPLES Corallo. Rione Cappuccini, 12 - 80065 Sant’Agnello di Eurostars Excelsior. Via Partenope, 48 B&B NAPLES Sorrento (NA) 80121 Naples (NA) Il Taschino Suite. Vico Primo Gravina, 5 Domina Home Royal. Via Pasitea, 344 Relais Villa Buonanno. Viale Buonanno, 10 - 80040 80100 Naples (NA) 84017 Positano (SA) (NA) That’s Napoli. Via Trinità degli Spagnoli, 41 Elna Park Hotel Terme. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 57 80132 Naples (NA) 80074 , Ischia (NA) 4 STAR NAPLES Gatto Bianco. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 32 Alabardieri. Via Alabardieri, 38 - 80121 Naples (NA) LUXURY APARTMENTS COAST&ISLANDS 80073 Capri (NA) Apart Hotel Plebiscito. Via Chiaia, 79 Residenza Flegrea. Via Caio Duilio, 8 Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi. Via Annunziatella, 80121 Naples (NA) 80125 Naples (NA) 46 - 84011 Amalfi (SA) Arte Resort Galleria Umberto. Galleria Umberto I, 83 - Hotel Helios. Via Capo, 33 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80132 Naples (NA) 5 STAR DELUXE COAST&ISLANDS La Bussola. Lungomare dei Cavalieri, 16 Best Western Hotel Paradiso. Via Catullo, 11 . Via Camerelle, 2 84011 Amalfi (SA) 80122 Naples (NA) 80073 Capri (NA) La Conca Azzurra. Via Smeraldo, 35 - 84010 Conca dei Best Western San Germano. Via Beccadelli, 41 - 80125 Marini (SA) Naples (NA) 5 STAR COAST&ISLANDS La Minerva. Via Occhio Marino, 8 - 80073 Capri (NA) Decumani Hotel de Charme. Via San Giovanni Maggiore . La Palma. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 39 - 80073 Capri (NA) Pignatelli, 15 - 80100 Naples (NA) Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, 2 - 84010 Ravello (SA) L’Approdo. Via Eddomade, 29 - 80074 Casamicciola Terme, Ferdinando II. Piazza Carlo III, 59 - 80137 Naples (NA) Caesar . Via G. Orlandi, 4 Ischia (NA) Holiday Inn Naples. Via Ausilio Centro Direzionale E6 - 80071 Anacapri, Capri (NA) La Residenza. Via Rota, 44 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80143 Naples (NA) Capri Tiberio Palace. Via Croce, 11-15, Capri (NA) Maison Tofani. Via San Cesareo, 34 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) La Ciliegina. Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 30 Casa Angelina. Via Capriglione, 147 Marad. Via Benedetto Croce, 29 80133 Naples (NA) 84010 Praiano (SA) 80059 Torre del Greco (NA) Le Chemineé. Via Stadera, 91 - 80143 Naples (NA) Cocumella. Via Cocumella, 7 - 80065 Sant’Agnello di Michelangelo. Via Corso Italia, 275 Magri’s. Via Galileo Ferraris, 118/a Sorrento (NA) 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80146 Naples (NA) Covo dei Saraceni. Via Regina Giovanna, 5 - 84017 Oasi Olimpia Relais. Via Deserto, 26 - 80061 Sant’Agata Majestic. Largo Vasto a Chiaia, 68 - 80121 Naples (NA) Positano (SA) sui due Golfi, (NA) Mercure Angioino. Via Depretis, 123 - Naples (NA) Don Alfonso 1890. Corso Sant’Agata, 11/13 - 80064 Palazzo Murat. Via dei Mulini, 23 - Positano (SA) MH Design Hotel. Via Chiaia, 245 Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi (NA) Park Hotel Terme Mediterraneo. Via Provinciale Panza 80121 - Naples (NA) Grand Hotel Excelsior Terme. Via E. Gianturco, 19 - 80075 Forio d’Ischia (NA) Miramare. Via Nazario Sauro, 24 - 80132 - Naples (NA) 80077 Ischia (NA) Poseidon. Via Cesare Battisti, 80, Torre del Greco (NA) Naples. Corso Umberto I, 55 - 80138 Naples (NA) Grand Hotel Il Saraceno. Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 33 Punta Imperatore. Via G. Mazzella, 18 Nh Ambassador. Via Medina, 70 84011 Amalfi (SA) 80075 Forio, Ischia (NA) 80133 Naples (NA) Grand Hotel Tenuta Lupò. Via Laura, 201 - 84063 Regina. Via Marina Grande, 10 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) Novotel Caserta Sud. SS 87 Sannitica km 22600 - 81020 Capaccio/Paestum (SA) Relais Bed and Breakfast Corte degli Aragonesi. Capodrise (CE) Il Moresco Grand Hotel & SPA. Via E. Gianturco, 16 Corso Vittorio Colonna, 108 - Ischia Porto (NA) Nuvò. Via Nuova Agnano, 5 - 80125 Naples (NA) 80077 Ischia (NA) Relais Blu. Via Roncato, 60 Oriente Grand Hotel. Via Armando Diaz, 44 L’albergo della Regina Isabella. 80061 Massa Lubrense (NA) 80134 Naples (NA) Piazza Santa Restituta, 1 Relais Regina Giovanna. Via Calata di Puolo, 1 Palazzo Esedra. Piazzale Tecchio, 50 80076 , Ischia (NA) 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80125 Naples (NA) Le Agavi. Via Guglielmo Marconi, 127 - Positano (SA) Residence Miramare. Via Capo, 60 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) Palazzo Turchini. Via Medina, 21-22 La Scalinatella. Via Tragara, 8 - 80073 Capri (NA) San Valentino Hotel. Via Leonardo Mazzella, 90 80132 - Naples (NA) Lusso Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. 80077 Ischia (NA) Ramada Naples. Via Galileo Ferraris, 40 - Piazza Tasso, 34 - 80067 - Sorrento (NA) Savoy Beach Hotel. Via Poseidonia, 41 80142 Naples (NA) Mezzatorre Resort & SPA. Via Mezzatorre, 23 84047 Paestum (SA) Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo. 80075 - Forio, Ischia (NA) S Continental. Piazza della Vittoria, 4 Via ponte di Tappia, 25 - 80133 Naples (NA) Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel & Spa. Via Roma, 2 80067 Sorrento (NA) Residenza Echia. Via Chiatamone, 37 84010 - (SA) Towers Hotel Sorrento Coast. 80121 Naples (NA) Palazzo Avino. Via San Giovanni del Toro, 28 - 80010 S.S. Sorrentina, 145. Km. 12.400 Residenza Le Rose Villa d’Arte. Ravello (SA) 80053 (NA) Discesa Gaiola, 73 80123 Naples (NA) Parco dei Principi. Via Rota, 44 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) Royal Continental. Via Partenope, 38/44 Punta Molino Hotel. Lungomare C. Colombo, 23 LUXURY APARTMENTS 80121 Naples (NA) 80077 Ischia (NA) Casa Colonne. Via San Nicola dei Greci Santa Brigida. Via Santa Brigida, 6 Punta Tragara. Via Tragara, 57 - 80073 Capri (NA) 84011 Amalfi (SA) 80133 Naples (NA) Casa Masaniello. Via San Nicola dei Greci, 8 Suite Esedra. Via A. Cantani, 12 - 80133 Naples (NA) 4 STAR COAST&ISLANDS 84011 Amalfi (SA) Santa Lucia Grand Hotel. Via Partenope, 46 A Pazziella. Via Fuorlovado, 36 - 80073 Capri (NA) Tenuta Mamma Carmela. Via Pietralata 80121 Naples (NA) Amleto. Via Bartolo Longo, 10 - 80045 Pompei (NA) 84011 Amalfi (SA)

WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I 2017