BUYINGGUIDE SEPTEMBER 2014
The Vigna Bosco Vineyard on the north face of Mount Etna, Sicily. MICHAEL HOUSEWRIGHT IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 SOUTHERN ITALY 48 GREECE 77 NEW YORK 19 SICILY 50 TURKEY 83 SPIRITS 24 BURGUNDY 51 ISRAEL 85 BEERS 37 RHÔNE 52 CALIFORNIA 41 SPAIN 66 WASHINGTON
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that offers fragrances of jasmine, acacia, Spanish broom and flint. Creamy peach, citrus and honey- dew carry the palate, along with energizing mineral notes. It’s fresh and well-balanced, with crisp acid- ity. Palm Bay International. —K.O. SOUTHERN ITALY abv: 13% Price: $31 A quality winemaking region of diversity and value Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Greco di Tufo. White peach, Bartlett pear, grapefruit and owhere else in Italy have the profound easy-drinking wines like Irpinia Aglianico. 88 Granny Smith apple take center stage on this lin- improvements in viticulture and enology From Sicily, the latest Nero d’Avolas show ear, refreshing wine. Mineral and almond notes add had more impact than in Southern Italy. gorgeous fruit and supple textures that make depth while crisp acidity gives generates a clean, Fifteen years ago, this sun-kissed area them perfect for everyday drinking. Some pro- bright finish. Palm Bay International. —K.O. Nstill specialized in producing industrial quanti- ducers age Nero d’Avola in wood for more com- abv: 13% Price: $20 ties of jug wine. Less talked about were the con- plexity. Estates on the eastern side of the island Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Greco di Tufo. centrated musts used to inject muscle into the are turning out silky and delicious Cerasuolo di 88 Here’s a savory and focused white that more delicate wines of northern Italy. Vittoria (a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappa- has layers of juicy peach, mature pear, green ap- Today, producers in Cam- to) and refreshing Frappatos, ple, lemon-lime and mineral. The creamy palate is pania, Sicily and parts of Basil- which make the perfect sum- brightened by crisp acidity and it finishes on a note of roasted almond. Palm Bay International. —K.O. icata are turning out fantastic Whether simple mer red when chilled. And last abv: 13% Price: $21 wines that are full of personality. yet delicious or but by no means least, produc- Whether simple yet delicious or complex and age ers on the slopes of Mount Etna complex and age worthy, these are making some of the most el- FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO worthy, these Southern gems should be on ev- egant and fascinating wines in Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Serrocielo (Fa- ery wine lover’s radar. Southern gems all of Italy from Nerello Mas- 90 langhina del Sannio). Here’s a bold and de- Besides better vineyard man- should be on every calese and Nerello Cappuccio licious wine that’s loaded with succulent white fruit agement, updated cellar technol- wine lover’s radar. grapes grown in volcanic soils. sensations including mature Bartlett pear, tart green ogy and a focus on quality over Although Southern Italy apple and citrus. The round, juicy palate is bright- quantity, the turning point for steals the spotlight this month, ened by crisp acidity and energized with mineral notes that add depth. Palm Bay International. —K.O. southern reds came when producers de-em- we also take a look at the wines of Burgundy and abv: 13% Price: $31 phasized international grapes in favor of native the Rhône, as well as selections from Spain and varieties, namely Aglianico, Nero d’Avola, Frap- Greece. From the U.S., check out hundreds of Mustilli 2013 Sant’Agata dei Goti (Falanghi- pato, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. reviews from California, New York and Wash- 90 na del Sannio). From the pioneering estate In Campania and Basilicata, Aglianico is liv- ington. And, as always, be sure to check out our that first bottled Falanghina in 1979, this elegant wine opens with floral and fruit fragrances of white ing up to its reputation as the Nebbiolo (the complete database, with thousands more re- jasmine, tropical fruit and aromatic herbs. The de- grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco) of the views, at buyingguide.winemag.com. licious palate offers juicy white peach, pineapple, south, producing full-bodied, age-worthy Taur- Cheers! mango, nectarine and mineral alongside refreshing asi and Aglianico del Vulture as well as vibrant, —Kerin O’Keefe acidity. Casa de Case. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17
mine, honeysuckle and exotic fruit. The ripe, round Colli di Castelfranci 2012 Falango (Falanghi- WHITE WINES palate delivers succulent yellow peach, ripe apricot, 89 na del Sannio). Here’s a bright, linear wine Bartlett pear and juicy pineapple alongside fresh that opens with alluring floral aromas that recall FIANO DI AVELLINO acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O. Spanish Broom and acacia, with just a whiff of bees- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 wax. The juicy palate offers grapefruit, exotic fruit Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Pietracalda (Fi- and pineapple flavors that are accented by energiz- 92 ano di Avellino). For full review see page 6. ing mineral notes. Communal Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $31 GRECO DI TUFO abv: NA Price: $15
Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Fiano di Avellino. Villa Raiano 2012 Contrada Marotta (Greco Cantina del Taburno 2012 Cesco dell’Ermo 90 White flower, stone fruit and candied citrus 92 di Tufo). This gorgeous expression boasts an 88 (Falanghina del Sannio). This late-harvested aromas take center stage on this elegant but struc- intense bouquet of stone fruit, flint and Mediter- Falanghina opens with intense aromas of fragrant tured white. The round palate delivers creamy yel- ranean herbs. The juicy palate delivers concentrated white flowers punctuated by whiffs of mature stone low peach, juicy nectarine and mineral flavors that peach, citrus and pink grapefruit flavors, accented fruit. The concentrated palate delivers dried apri- are brightened by crisp acidity. Palm Bay Interna- by mineral and mint. It has structure, elegance and cot and candied citrus flavors, accented by aromatic tional. —K.O. incredible energy. Siena Imports. —K.O. herbs. It ends with a soft hazelnut nuance. de Grazia abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 Terredora Di Paolo 2013 Fiano di Avellino. Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Cutizzi (Greco di This savory Fiano opens with aromas of jas- Tufo). Here’s a poised and structured wine 88 91 Continued on Page 13
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag- ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzer- Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Vigne de l’Enfant land; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing 94 Jésus Grèves Premier Cru (Beaune). This Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in Cali- iconic wine is rich and perfumed. It’s powerful fornia; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. Astrales 2010 Ribera del Duero. This could and concentrated, with layers of wood contrasted If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- 96 be the best Astrales to date. Alluring scents by explosive, ripe fruits. Ripe red-fruit flavors are tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- of plum, blueberry and spice are backed by bal- brightened by ample acidity, resulting in a sumptu- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. sam dust and briary pipe-tobacco aromas. Deep ous wine that also has enough tannins to age. Drink Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and tannic on the palate, then packed with mocha, from 2018. Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. chocolate, toasted marshmallow, cassis and cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $100 Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the cough drop flavors, this is fixed and firm now, with submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot a staunch, intense, nervy finish. Drink from 2015– be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 2028. Grapes of Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un- less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom- ary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Doubleback 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Le Corton (Cor- 94 (Walla Walla Valley). This is Doubleback’s often good value. ton). This is powerful and rich, allowing first vintage to include estate-grown grapes in the Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 96 critical circumstances. just a note of freshness to creep into the firm struc- blend. Truffle, mocha and ripe purple-fruit scents ture. Dark tannins, black fruits and smoky wood fla- explode from the glass. Ample acidity underscores Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. vors combine harmoniously, lending a sense of great the chewy tannins. A dense and ageworthy wine, power and long-term aging potential. Drink from this needs more bottle-age to show its best; try after SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- 2019. Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 2018. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price abv: 13.5% Price: $115 abv: 14.4% Price: $89 with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener- ally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. Louis Latour 2011 Montrachet. This is the big net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make 95 one, one of the most treasured white wine Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Sirica (Campa- every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there vineyards in the world. And the wine is magnificent, nia). Made from a rare and nearly extinct is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or 94 that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be balanced with restrained power and style. Yellow grape variety of the same name, Sirica opens with accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may fruits are shot through with acidity that conveys a intense aromas of blackberry, leather, violets, un- be downloaded from our Web site. nervy texture and an intense, concentrated char- derbrush and Mediterranean herbs. The delicious LABELS acter. This needs many years; don’t drink before palate doles out mature black cherry, blueberry, Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given 2020. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. black pepper, clove and grilled sage alongside vel- the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information abv: 14% Price: $520 vety tannins and fresh acidity. It’s beautifully bal- on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax anced and will continue to evolve well over the next 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. decade. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at —K.O. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 13.5% Price: $50
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Guardian Cellars 2013 Angel Sauvignon Joseph Phelps 2012 Freestone Vineyards Maison Nicolas Perrin 2010 Ermitage (Her- 94 Blanc (Red Mountain). From the astonishing 94 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 94 mitage). While this wine comes out of the Klipsun Vineyard, this wine is rich in Red Mountain Made from estate-grown fruit near the chilly So- gate showing little but earth and dark fruit aromas, fruit, polished by winemaker Jerry Riener. Barrel- noma Coast town of Freestone, this is a fully layered it lightens and develops more delineation with air, fermented in new French oak, this matches ripe, wine, expertly balanced in acidity yet offering plen- eventually revealing berry, plum and spice notes. tropical fruit flavors to barrel-generated streaks of ty of full-figured mouthfeel and viscous pleasure. It Right now, the flavors are almost jammy, so pur- toast and caramel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. delivers an electric mix of Meyer lemon, minerals ists may want to wait a few years before opening a abv: 14.1% Price: $20 and brioche, and will please a diverse range of pal- bottle. Full-bodied, chewy and rich, this superripe ates. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Hermitage should age well for up to 15 years. Vine- abv: 14% Price: $55 yard Brands. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $100
Guardian Cellars 2011 Gun Metal (Columbia 94 Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this also holds small amounts Louis Latour 2011 Corton-Charlemagne. One of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Sourced from 94 of the flagship wines of Louis Latour, this Maurodos 2010 San Román (Toro). This the Conner Lee and Stonetree vineyards, it’s supple, has great weight, richness and ripe yellow fruits, all 94 burly Tempranillo opens with an allur- smooth and textural, with elegant, perfectly ripened surrounded by wood and citrus flavors. A sense of ing blend of graphite, stony mineral, marzipan and fruit and a judicious application of two-thirds new mineral in the texture adds complexity, while the ripe black-fruit aromas. The palate is lusty, giant French oak. It captures the elegance, restraint and firm structure needs to age. Drink from 2018. Louis and tannic, but not mean or fierce. Blackberry, cas- overall structure of the challenging (and rewarding) Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. sis and chocolate flavors end with café mocha and 2011 vintage. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $140 licorice notes, while tannic grab suggests aging this abv: 14% Price: $39 until 2015–16 and drinking through 2023. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70
Guardian Cellars 2011 The Wanted (Columbia 94 Valley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Louis M. Martini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet Franc, The Wanted is sourced from the 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Inky Stillwater Creek and Stonetree vineyards. This tex- red-purple in color and thick, this is a powerfully Oso Libre NV Rojo del Patron (Paso Robles). tural, Cab-on-Cab creation is loaded with fig, plum, impressive Cabernet from the mighty Monte Rosso 94 When you’re blending barrels from multiple cherry and cassis fruit, highlights of cedar and to- Vineyard. It’s rich in spicy cinnamon, deep, dark vintages, you’d better make a fine wine. Oso Libre bacco, and supple, rich, ripe tannins. The wine is plum and herbal tobacco. With the acidity in bal- succeeds with this opulent offering from their Aber- showing beautifully, but can only get even better ance, it offers huge leather up front, dotted by un- nathy Vineyard. There is leather, mocha, oak smoke, with more age. Cellar Selection. —P.G. dertones of cedar and pencil shavings. The finish is vanilla and deep cherry on the nose, followed by a abv: 14.5% Price: $37 deftly accented by a seasoning of black pepper that rich palate of ripe red-berry fruit and a lingering lingers on the tongue. —V.B. campfire-flavor finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $85 abv: 15.8% Price: $45
4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Terredora Di Paolo 2009 Fatica Contadina Boekenoogen 2012 Bell Ranch Estate Viog Louis Latour 2011 Cuvée Héritiers Latour 94 (Taurasi). This gripping, delicious wine 93 nier (Carmel Valley). Boasting a distinct 93 (Chambertin). Rich and sweetly fruity, this seamlessly weaves together sensations of blue flow- aroma of both roasted and candied walnuts, this wine wields intense power. Red fruits are initially er, exotic incense, ripe black cherry, mature plum, Viognier is probably best suited for those who love opulent and pleasurable, but then the wine begins cracked pepper, mocha, clove and graphite. It’s al- California Chardonnay. The palate is luxuriously to show solid structure and concentration. The fi- ready delicious and well balanced, with bracing soft, delivering peach and toasted oak on the mid- nal texture, with its tannins and fruit in harmony, is tannins and racy acidity, but give it time to soften palate and vanilla on the finish, but the acidity is impressive. Drink from 2018. Louis Latour Inc. Cel- and develop complexity. Drink 2019–2029. Vias perfectly incorporated throughout. —M.K. lar Selection. —R.V. Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $280 abv: 14% Price: $34
Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Clos de la Mousse Rocca 2010 Grigsby Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). Perfume partners 93 gnon (Yountville). This cellar-worthy wine World’s End 2010 If Six Was Nine Reserve with great acidity in this wine. The two work in is enjoyable now, rich and powerful in bright red 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A brood- harmony, resulting in a wine that has a soft texture, and blackberry fruit, spice, toast and black licorice. ing Cabernet full of green and black olive, velvety rich, jammy berry fruits and a backbone of tannins Concentrated and layered, the tannins are thick and cassis and cinnamon spice, this is ready to enjoy that will allow for aging. Drink from 2017. Henriot interwoven, and the juicy texture offers balanced now. A juicy red, it has resolved tannins and a lin- Inc. —R.V. acidity. Streaks of chocolate and earthy menthol on gering taste of tobacco. Power and finesse are here, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 the nose and palate give distinctiveness. Enjoy now along with smoky minerality and savory fruit. —V.B. through 2024. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 abv: 14.9% Price: $85
Famille Perrin 2011 Château de Beaucastel 93 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This wine takes Balletto 2012 Burnside Road Vineyard Es- white Châteauneuf-du-Pape to rare heights. Mouth- Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Les Clos Grand Cru 93 tate Grown and Bottled Pinot Noir (Russian watering aromas of toasted nuts and pineapple set 93 (Chablis). From the famous Chablis Grand River Valley). In 2012, Balletto had its Pinots un- the stage for a full-bodied, rich, succulent wine ex- Cru, this wine lives up to the vineyard’s reputation. dergo natural fermentations, with beguiling results. perience whose finish lingers. Yet despite the wine’s Steely in character, packed with a firm structure This vintage of Burnside Road, always a standout undeniable heft, it never seems overly weighty. and tightly textured, it shows a citrus side that will bottling, delivers stemmy, herbal, toasty aromas Drink this blend of 80% Roussanne and 20% Gre- be refreshing and attractive as the wine ages. But it around a layering of warm strawberry fruit and gor- nache Blanc over the next couple of years. Vineyard does need time, so wait to enjoy until 2017. Louis geous earthiness. Soft, silky and seductive, it lingers Brands. —J.C. Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. on the tongue, imprinting on the pleasure centers of abv: 14% Price: $108 abv: 13% Price: $80 the brain. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $42
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Carol Shelton 2012 Wild Thing Old Vine Zin- J Wilkes 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- Oso Libre 2011 Carnal (Paso Robles). Funky 92 fandel (Mendocino). Not overly full-bodied, 92 ley). Starting off with grapefruit soda and 92 earth tones of forest floor, brown button not overly ripe, not overly wild, but just right for apple-pear cider aromas, this well-priced Char- mushrooms and aged beef rise as leading scents in dinner time. It’s well balanced, velvet textured and donnay is made by the Miller family of Bien Nacido this Rhône-style blend. The nicely rounded, velvety multilayered. Brambly, bright raspberry and black- Vineyard fame in honor of the brand’s late founder. palate, which emerges steadily over the course of berry flavors fill the mouth, supported by smooth It features the steadily evolving flavor profile of a sip, offers plum flavors and soft but present -tan tannins and good acidity that keep it lively and ap- wines twice its price. The citrus soda element is nins, representing a wine that could last a few more petizing through the long finish. —J.G. first, followed by a distinct, slightly bitter pear-peel years. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 profile on the midpalate, finishing with lingering -va abv: 14.9% Price: $40 nilla toffee. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $20
Yatir 2009 Syrah (Judean Hills). Tantalizing 92 aromas of cherry, black olive and oregano Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine Lois Louise L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Ferguson Vineyard Estate usher in flavors of blueberry pie, smoked meat, 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). The most 92 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet orange peel and thyme. Alluring on the palate, it affordable offering in the Clos de la Tech portfolio, Franc (Walla Walla Valley). Ferguson is L’Ecole’s demonstrates strong teamwork between savory and it offers cinnamon and other baking spices plus newest estate vineyard, and this Bordeaux-style fruit flavors. Tannins and acidity keep up through caramel on the nose. These are followed by a palate blend marks its single-vineyard debut. It’s 57% the lingering finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- rich in cola nut, cranberry, tar and cherry flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 11% Caber- tion. —M.D. Like its sister wines, this is loaded with tannins, so net Franc, grown at 1,500 feet in almost pure ba- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 expect steady evolution and improvement through salt. The minerality is a signature trait, along with 2019. Cellar Selection. —M.K. raspberry, cassis and wild cherry fruit flavors. This abv: 14.13% Price: $42 seems sure to improve by 2020–2022. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60
Balletto 2012 Estate Grown and Bottled Pi- 91 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Burgundy in color, this soft, lush wine opens with seductive red berry fruit before delving into a velvety texture and Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Pietracalda (Fi- Maison Nicolas Perrin 2010 Cornas. This forest floor earthiness. There’s a luxurious quality 92 ano di Avellino). This savory, fresh white 92 venture is doing a fine job ferreting out to this wine, shockingly fair priced, amid enviable opens with aromas of white spring flowers and Northern Rhône wines and offering them at realis- structure and balance. On the finish, there’s a fine white tree fruits. The creamy palate delivers a great tic prices. This is a dark, concentrated Cornas, big leathery coating on the tongue. —V.B. depth of flavors, including white peach, Bartlett and richly textured while retaining crispness and abv: 14.2% Price: $29 pear and nectarine layered with notes of Mediter- delineation. Plum and blackberry notes join black ranean herbs and energizing mineral. This will de- olive and espresso, but the overall impression re- velop even more complexity over the next few years. mains savory, all the way through the long, velvety Palm Bay International. —K.O. finish. Drink now–2020. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $31 Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $57
6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Cambria 2012 Katherine’s Vineyard Estate Famille Perrin 2011 Coudoulet de Beaucastel Ironstone 2012 Reserve Estate Grown Char- 91 Grown & Bottled Chardonnay (Santa Maria 91 (Côtes du Rhône). Full bodied yet still fresh 91 donnay (Sierra Foothills). Big, bold and con- Valley). At first, there’s a slight green herb funki- and vibrant, this is a blend of 30% each Bourbou- centrated, this full-bodied wine was given the com- ness of sharp dill on the nose of this single-vineyard lenc, Marsanne and Viognier, plus 10% Clairette. plete new-barrel, lees-stirring treatment. It has a offering from the Jackson Family-owned Cambria Hints of lemon curd impart a lovely texture, while deep gold color, with ripe pear and buttered toast brand, where Santa Maria native Denise Shurtleff the aromas and flavors lean toward pineapple, mel- aromas that transition to waves of pear and apple has made the wine since 1999. Once sipped, that on and citrus. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. on the palate and lingering finish. —J.G. evolves into a nice smokiness that sits atop tart abv: 13% Price: $49 abv: 15.5% Price: $20 green apple and Asian pear. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $22
Kendall-Jackson 2012 Jackson Estate Camelot 91 Highlands Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Serpico (Irpinia). Lemon butter, apple pie crust and hazelnut are first 91 Underbrush, leather, dense black plum, black to the aroma party on this carefully crafted Jackson Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Canoe Ridge Estate cherry, clove and black pepper all meld seamlessly family offering from a vineyard about 400 feet up 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). together in the glass. This is still young, with ag- in limestone-dotted soils. On the palate, strong but This pops aromatically, with notes of dark roasted gressive tannins and nervous acidity that need time integrated acidity carries the myriad citrus, apple coffee beans, char and black cherry. The palate is to tame, but going forward, it should develop layers and spice flavors to completion. Cellar Selection. approachable and soft in style, with sweet, ripe of complexity. This will be even better after 2019. —M.K. cherry flavors and abundant coffee tones through- Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 out. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $30
Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Red Wine Blend (Colum- Miro 2012 Cuvée Sasha Monte Lago Vineyard Concannon 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 91 bia Valley). A blend of seven grapes—a mix of 91 Grenache-Mourvèdre-Syrah (High Valley). 91 (Livermore Valley). This big-boned Cabernet Bordeaux and Rhône varieties—this is a delicious From the Monte Lago Vineyard in Lake County’s tastes rich, complex and inviting. It combines cin- mash-up, showcasing vivid, forward, spicy berry High Valley AVA, this blend of 68% Grenache, 20% namon and cedar aromas, ripe blackberry and cher- fruit flavors. Along with the juicy acidity come Mourvèdre and 12% Syrah is dark and brooding, ry flavors and a firm, tannic texture that will love a highlights of dark chocolate and clean earth. Edi- offering dusty tannins around roasted plum and grilled lamb chop or similar flavorful fare. Concan- tors’ Choice. —P.G. strawberry notes. Soft and intense, with bright non ages the reserve lots for at least 18 months in abv: 14.3% Price: $16 acidity, a taste of licorice lurks up to the leathery, French oak barrels. Best from 2015–2020. —J.G. espresso-laden finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 abv: 14.2% Price: $20
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Morlanda 2009 Criança (Priorat). Intense, Renwood 2011 Premier Old Vine Zinfandel Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 91 heady cherry and blackberry aromas are 91 (Amador County). A ripe and tasty style of 90 Viognier (Red Mountain). Ciel du Cheval— minerally on one hand and sweet like marzipan on Zinfandel from a grand old name in the Sierra Foot- one of Washington’s top vineyards—now has its the other. This textbook Garnacha-Carignan blend hills. The maple and brown sugar tones from new own wine label, and this lush Viognier is the first is tight on the palate, with live-wire berry, plum, oak integrate well with ripe but not overripe fruit release. A rich array of fruit runs from orange peel earth and mineral flavors. Only on the finish does flavors. Touches of clove and black pepper come out and pineapple into more tropical flavors of guava a touch of raisiny richness rise up; drink through as you sip, adding welcome nuances. —J.G. and mango. It was whole-cluster pressed, and the 2017. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20 skin flavors add grip to the finish.Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $18
Tselepos 2011 Driopi Classic Agiorgitiko Planeta 2011 Chardonnay (Sicilia). There’s a 91 (Nemea). Blackberry, cherry and cedar start 91 reason why this finessed bottling is one of this rich, elegant red from Tselepos. On the palate, Decoy 2012 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Sicily’s most iconic whites. It doles out juicy yel- rounded flavors of cedar, vanilla, black berry and 90 Smoothly seductive in bright red-berry low apple, mature pear, white grapefruit, yellow spice are well integrated and juicy. The wine finish- and pomegranate fruit, this young Zinfandel comes peach and tropical fruit accented by notes of vanilla es with touches of wood and smoke. Cava Spiliadis. from mostly Dry Creek Valley vineyards. Rippling in and hazelnut, with fresh acidity. Subtle oak adds —S.K. baking spice and subtle vanilla oak, it’s a complete complexity and structure. Palm Bay International. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 wine, with balanced acidity and mellowed tannins. —K.O. Clean and long on the finish, it will complement abv: 13.5% Price: $42 rather than overpower a meal. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25
Byron 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 90 County). Butter, salt, pear and fresh- Red Tail Ridge 2013 RTR Estate Vineyard Dry squeezed orange comprise the leading aromas. 91 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Scents of peach and Bright orange flavors persist on the palate, as do Domaine du Castel 2012 C Blanc du Castel melon are layered with deep mineral tones on this green apple, hints of papaya and the near-chalky 90 (Haute Judée). Medium straw to the eye, gorgeously aromatic Riesling. The palate is lavish, sensation of white rock. —M.K. this wine exhibits aromas of lemon, baking bread with stone fruit and blossom flavors, yet it’s steely abv: 13.8% Price: $17 and toasted coconut. It is very full in the mouth, and dry, with a waxy richness that lends volume and with an initial impression—which does not come power to the finish. This is elegance epitomized.Ed - to pass—that creaminess may outweigh brightness. itors’ Choice. —A.I. Flavors of lemon curd, brioche and lemon-scented abv: 12.5% Price: $19 custard continue into the sustained and mouth- pleasing finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $45
8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Finca La Mata 2011 Ribera del Duero. Loamy, Guenoc 2012 Chardonnay (Lake County). A 90 (Dry Creek Valley). Dry Creek hits another 90 earthy blackberry and plum aromas are 90 sophisticated Chardonnay from a winery Sauvignon Blanc grand slam with the 2013, drip- woody and attractive. This is loud and lively on the known for good values. Buttery in aroma, it has a ping in racy minerality, pretty floral aromatics and palate, with acidity and tannins making their pres- rich texture without being full-bodied, and is ap- layers of fresh-squeezed lemon, melon and tropical ence felt. Blackberry and baked plum are the key petizingly dry and subtle in fruit flavor. Notes of mango. The palate gives just enough weight to keep flavors, and this finishes loamy and smooth. Drink toasted almond and baking spices come out on the things complex and interesting without becoming through 2018. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. palate and linger on the finish. —J.G. overbearing. A small percentage of Sauvignon Mus- abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 qué adds to the mix. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $18
Firestone 2010 Merlot (Santa Ynez Valley). Laetitia 2012 Laetitia Estate Whole Cluster 90 A savory nose of roasted red pepper and 90 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). Both sour En Garde 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian marinated black olives makes this wine from the and black cherry join with blackberry on this wine 90 River Valley). With a concentrated bouquet Santa Ynez Valley’s first estate winery stand out from Laetitia. It delivers a rich, full mouth, with a of black cherry and leathery earth, this straddles from the crowd. There are green elements that some good tannic grip and lasting finish—perhaps in part the richness of California fruit with an Old World may consider unwanted, but the round, peppery due to the inclusion of stems in the fermentation layering of savory sumptuousness. Built with struc- spiciness makes for an intriguing, distinctive palate. process. Flavors approach the yellow-red blend ture and subtle acidity, it is meant to be enjoyed at This would go well with a New York strip and could of Mexican taco spices, equally savory and spicy. the table, a pork tenderloin or mushroom quiche stand up to prime rib with horseradish. —M.K. —M.K. among the pairing possibilities. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $60
Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Cabernet Sauvignon Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Taurasi. Ripe 90 (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon is 90 black plum, sour cherry, blue flower, black 75% of the blend, with the other four Bordeaux va- pepper, clove and cinnamon all meld together in the rieties making up the rest. Scents of Bourbon bar- Montefiore 2010 Syrah (Judean Hills). Inky glass. This is still a very young Aglianco, with brac- rel greet you upon opening. Then black cherry and 90 garnet in the glass, this offers aromas of ing tannins, but it should unwind nicely over the cassis fruit emerges, with a layer of dark chocolate black cherry and pomegranate. Flavors of pure cher- next few years. Drink after 2018. Palm Bay Interna- ripping through the ripe tannins. This is a super ef- ry, cranberry, clove and tomato leaf are sprinkled tional. —K.O. fort at this price, from a fine vintage, with excellent with a heavy dose of mint. Enduring tannins and abv: 13.5% Price: $38 concentration. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. savory notes coat the mouth through to the smooth abv: 14.3% Price: $16 finish, where a hint of orange zest rallies at the last moment. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $45
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Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Merlot (Columbia Val- Mettler Family Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown Or Haganuz 2012 Amuka Series Marus Single 89 ley). Firm and compact, this marries tart 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). This full-bod- 90 Vineyard Shiraz (Galilee). Deep violet red to red and purple fruit to tannins, with a soft streak ied wine gets attention right away with a deep, dark the eye, this wine offers fragrances of raspberry and of leather and a dusting of coffee grounds. Flavor color. It follows up with assertive aromas and fla- vanilla. It has a silky mouthfeel as well as a pleas- integration is excellent, and the wine will drink well vors of charred oak barrels and maple syrup, which antly easy-drinking quality, with flavors of cherry, through 2019. —P.G. gives an impression of sweetness. Blended with Dr Pepper, pomegranate seeds and eucalyptus that abv: 14.2% Price: $16 12% Petite Sirah and 3% Cabernet Franc, it has carry on into the bright and satisfying finish. Ko- ample fruit elements, but the lavish oak character sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. dominates. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.9% Price: $25
Portia 2011 Ebeia de Bodegas Portia Roble 89 (Ribera del Duero). Rubbery, dark-fruit aro- Tabor 2011 Adama Shiraz (Galilee). Aromas mas are generous and come with a blanket of mild, 90 of blackberry, black pepper and a whiff of chocolaty oak. This is round and punchy on the pal- Stemmari 2011 Cantodoro (Terre Siciliane). jalapeño get your palate ready for rich flavors of ate, with raspberry, plum, herb and spice flavors. On 88 A blend of 80% Nero d’Avola and 20% blackberry, tart cherry, black olive and mocha. Soft the finish, it is fresh and not too demanding, with Cabernet Sauvignon, this robust wine opens with tannins, a smooth mouthfeel and a lasting finish steady, firm tannins. Palm Bay International. —M.S. aromas of red currant, black cherry and wild straw- with a touch of brightness make for a winning com- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 berry. The palate offers ripe blackberry and black bination. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. cherry layered with notes of chocolate and vanilla. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14
Mettler Family Vineyards 2011 Epicenter Old Tolosa 2012 No Oak Chardonnay (Central 88 Vines Zinfandel (Lodi). Here is a generous, 90 Coast). Though quite pale in color due to full-throttle, high-octane Zin, with lots of rich oak no barrel aging, there is a nicely rounded candy accents and a touch of sweetness. Aromas of straw- nose of bright green apple and vanilla, alongside berry jam, maple syrup and hickory-smoked bacon some sharper spice. On the palate, more green apple are followed by rich fruit flavors, full body, light Feudo di Santa Tresa 2012 Cerasuolo di Vit- dominates, along with lemon-lime, slight guava and tannins and a jammy finish. —J.G. 87 toria Classico). This vibrant blend of Nero an acidity that causes the wine to dance across the abv: 15.9% Price: $20 d’Avola and Frappato delivers juicy blackberry tongue. —M.K. and black cherry sensations while subtle notes of abv: 14.5% Price: $21 white pepper and mineral add interest. Fresh acid- ity makes it extremely food friendly. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $15
10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
Seven Deadly Zins 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel 87 (Lodi). This all-out Zin makes no bones about its sweetness, heavy oak spiciness and full Fox Run 2013 Doyle Family Vineyard Char- body. Maple syrup, brown sugar and cherry jam Pacific Rim 2013 Selenium Vineyard Dry Ries- 89 donnay (Finger Lakes). The addition of 9% are the dominant notes that crowd the aromas and 90 ling (Yakima Valley). Though not as floral as Traminette lends a blossomy flair to fresh apple and flavors and linger on the finish. Very rich and full- Pacific Rim’s Gewürztraminer, this dry Riesling has tangerine notes in this bright, unoaked Chardonnay. bodied, it has prominent caramelized oak notes that an inviting component of citrus blossom, leading Brisk and revitalizing, with a zesty lime-toned acid- keep the tannins from biting. —J.G. into flavors anchored in grapefruit and apple. It’s a ity, it’s a satisfying late-summer quaffer at a bargain abv: 15% Price: $16 wine with good presence and some power, leading price. Best Buy. —A.I. into a strong, mineral finish.Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $11 abv: 12.9% Price: $15
Tenuta Rapitalà 2013 Campo Reale Nero StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Syrah (Colum- 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). This straightforward Nero 89 bia Valley). Direct and easy drinking, this d’Avola opens with aromas that recall violet, ripe StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Merlot (Co- is full of ripe blueberry aromas and flavors, framed black plum and tilled soil. The juicy palate offers 90 lumbia Valley). This seduces with flavors of by hints of toast and a dusting of cinnamon. Drink ripe blackberry and Morello cherry, lightly accented juicy, ripe berries, spicy plums and black cherries. now. Best Buy. —P.G. by hints of white pepper. This isn’t an ager so enjoy It delivers the complexity, density and mocha finish abv: 13.5% Price: $10 soon. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. of a much more expensive Merlot. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.9% Price: $10
BEST BUYS
Three Rivers 2013 Steel Chardonnay (Co- 89 lumbia Valley). Steel is the medium and the message, meaning it’s completely unoaked, with no malolactic fermentation. The flavors are spicy and Tabor 2012 Mt. Tabor Chardonnay (Galilee). bright, mixing cucumber, mint and green melon Charles & Charles 2013 Rosé (Columbia Val- 90 The nose of this wine recalls chilled fruit with a dash of white pepper. Best Buy. —P.G. 90 ley). The wines from this collaboration salad, with aromas of melon, pineapple and Deli- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 between Charles Smith and Charles Bieler con- cious apple. Engaging flavors of pineapple, passion tinue to impress. The rosé is mostly Syrah, with fruit, vanilla and clove fill the softly textured mouth small amounts of Cinsault, Grenache, Counoise and and persist into the cooling finish. Kosher. Royal Mourvèdre. It’s a complex, fashionably stylish take Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. on rosé. Light fruit flavors of berry and melon are abv: 14.5% Price: $15 detailed and refreshing, with exceptional length on the palate. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $12
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BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
Tortoise Creek 2011 Le Charmel Syrah-Gre- Feudo di Santa Tresa 2013 Frappato (Sicilia). StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- 89 nache (Costières de Nîmes). For the suggest- 88 Made from organically-grown grapes, this 88 vignon (Columbia Valley). This features an ed price of $12, this delivers plenty of richness and savory, light-bodied wine opens with fruity aromas appealingly toasty aroma, substantial cherry and flavor. Plum and briary blackberry aromas lead the of crushed red berries. The bright palate doles out cassis fruit and a concentrated core. Elements way, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, slightly juicy strawberry and sour cherry, lightly accented of stem wood, black olive and clean earth filter creamy palate that offers dark fruit tinged with a by notes of white pepper and mineral. Chill it for 20 through the finish, along with perfectly ripe tan- hint of brown sugar. Drink now–2017. Winesellers minutes before serving for a refreshing summer red. nins. Best Buy. —P.G. Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.1% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $13
Barefoot Refresh NV Perfectly Pink (Califor- Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Fumé Blanc (So- Girasole 2010 Made With Organic Grapes 86 nia). Here’s a light, sweet and aromatic pink 88 noma County). New Dry Creek Vineyard 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino). This has wine with a definite Moscato flavor. A slight spritz Winemaker Tim Bell is showing finesse with this everything in the right place. It tastes polished and and welcome acidity keep the texture lively, and the signature white for the winery. All stainless-steel flavorful, has firm but smooth tannins, and bright, floral, candylike flavors last on the finish. Should go fermented, it’s racy in acidity and offers juicy fruit fresh cherry and black plum flavors, all accented by well with appetizers or dessert. Best Buy. —J.G. flavors of apricot, lemon and lime, plus fresh-cut smoky oak. It shows the benefits of extra aging be- abv: 9.5% Price: $8 grass and an herbal streak on top of stony mineral- fore it was released. Best Buy. —J.G. ity. It finishes long. Pair it with oysters and a day on abv: 13.5% Price: $13 the bay. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14
Castle Rock 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso 86 Robles). Light pepper, cassis and a hint of Girasole 2010 Made With Organic Grapes Zin- leather form the nose on this wine from a brand 88 fandel (Mendocino). This medium-bodied founded in 1994 specifically to deliver quality wines Zinfandel has a lighter color than many, but plenty at affordable prices. The palate offers grilled meat of aroma and flavor. It smells like a wild blackberry and roasted root-vegetable flavors. Fairly gripping patch in summer, tastes like strawberry jam and tannins mean that this wine could survive through Felix Solis 2009 Ayrum Reserva (Valde goes down smooth due to its light tannins and a 2017. Best Buy. —M.K. 88 peñas). Dry, crisp aromas of dusty red ber- touch of sweetness. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 ries and spice announce a medium-bodied wine abv: 13.5% Price: $13 with fresh acidity and good balance. Earthy plum and berry flavors show a tobacco note and some overt oak, while the finish is dry. MHW, Ltd.Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13
12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Falanghina BEST BUYS SPIRITS 88 del Sannio. Here’s a bright wine that of- fers sensations of tropical fruit, lemon-lime and Bartlett pear that all carry through to the savory palate. Bright acidity gives it a clean, refreshing fin- ish. Pair this with pizza Margherita. Palm Bay Inter- national. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20
Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Falanghina del 88 Sannio. This vibrant expression of Fa- langhina opens with floral notes of white spring flowers and whiffs of tropical fruit. The bright Felix Solis 2012 Ayrum Tempranillo (Valde palate delivers green apple, citrus, pineapple and 86 peñas). With rubbery, smoky aromas and banana alongside crisp acidity and steely mineral. mild berry scents, this light-framed Tempranillo is Palm Bay International. —K.O. bright on the palate and easy to quaff. Berry, plum abv: 13% Price: $17 and a touch of bitter chocolate are the flavors. MHW, William Wolf Pecan (Holland; Spirit Imports, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. 91 Sunrise, FL). Golden and full of sweet, nutty- Fontanavecchia 2012 Taburno (Falanghina abv: 13% Price: $8 maple flavor, this reads like a Bourbon-based liqueur. 88 del Sannio). Here’s a polished Falanghina Consider this viscous, easy-drinking flavored whis- that offers aromas of fragrant white flowers, mango key for sweetening cocktails, sipping alongside des- and papaya. The succulent but sophisticated palate sert, or even splashed into baked goods. Produced delivers grapefruit, banana and white peach flavors using American-made Bourbon but bottled in the that are accented by aromatic herbs and a hint of Netherlands. mineral. Refreshing acidity gives it a clean, bright abv: 30% Price: $28 finish. Haw River Wine Man. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18
OTHER WHITE WINES
Feudo di Santa Tresa 2013 Purato Made With Cantine Olivella 2012 Katà (Catalanesca del 86 Organic Grapes Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Made 89 Monte Somma). Made from Catalanesca, a from organically farmed fruit, this easygoing Nero rare grape from Campania, this vibrant wine opens d’Avola offers juicy blackberry and sour cherry light- with delicate aromas of white flower, beeswax and ly framed by a white pepper accent. It’s simple but white tree fruit. The easy-drinking but savory pal- well-made, with bright acidity. Pair it with summer ate offers juicy pear, apple and a hint of hazelnut on salads or pizza. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. the finish. Vinity Wine, Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $19
Cantine Farro 2012 Falanghina (Campi SPIRITS 88 Flegrei). Here’s a delicious Falanghina that opens with fragrances of orange blossom, honey- suckle and pear. The round, savory palate delivers juicy green apple, white peach and citrus alongside mineral and crisp acidity. Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $19
Marisa Cuomo 2012 Furore Bianco (Costa 88 d’Amalfi). This inviting blend of 60% Fa- langhina and 40% Biancolella has lovely aromas of jasmine, Spanish broom and citrus. The palate doles out ripe tropical fruit, green apple, nectarine Vermont Spirits No. 14 Bourbon Whiskey and lemon zest flavors, balanced by just the right 92 (USA; Vermont Spirits, Quechee, VT). A amount of fresh acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. bridge between straight-up whiskey and liqueur, this —K.O. Vermont-made Bourbon laced with Vermont maple abv: 13.5% Price: $24 syrup is approachable and not too sweet. The maple shows up in the aroma and just a flash of sweetness Basilisco 2012 Sophia (Basilicata). Made on the palate. Otherwise, it’s light-bodied and silky, 87 from a blend of Fiano, Traminer and Mal- with a surprising cherry-vanilla note on the mid vasia, this opens with aromas of white flower and palate and a creamy, citrusy fade. Would be a delight stone fruit. The fresh palate offers yellow peach, mixed with ginger and lime. apricot and citrus notes alongside fresh acidity. abv: 45% Price: $45 Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA
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Terredora Di Paolo 2013 Coda di Volpe (Cam- tional complexity. Drink 2019–2029. Multiple U.S. Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Taurasi. For full 87 pania). Tropical fruit and citrus aromas importers. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 90 review see page 9. take center stage on this bright, refreshing wine. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 The juicy palate delivers lemon-lime and pineapple alongside crisp acidity. A note of white almond sig- Terredora Di Paolo 2009 Fatica Contadina Luigi Tecce 2010 Poliphemo (Taurasi). nals the close. Vias Imports. —K.O. 94 (Taurasi). For full review see page 5. Cellar 90 Here’s a powerfully built wine with mature abv: 13% Price: $17 Selection. black plum, underbrush, stewed prune, mint and abv: 14% Price: $34 thyme aromas that waft from the glass. The brawny Terredora Di Paolo 2013 Falanghina (Irpinia). palate doles out juicy black cherry, milk chocolate 87 Here’s a wine that opens with aromas of fra- Mastroberardino 2008 Radici (Taurasi). and cracked pepper flavors, with a solid tannic grant white flowers, lemon zest and tropical fruit. 93 Taurasi Radici is a compelling wine that backbone. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. The straightforward palate offers yellow peach, ap- opens with a multifaceted fragrance of freshly tilled abv: 14% Price: $75 ple and pineapple alongside refreshing acidity. Vias earth, iris, leather, tar and mature black berries. Imports. —K.O. The gripping palate delivers ripe black cherry and Terredora Di Paolo 2009 Pago dei Fusi (Taur- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 plum layered with white pepper, clove and mocha, 90 asi). This opens with aromas of ripe black alongside fresh acidity and polished tannins. It’s al- plum, tilled soil, blue flower, leather and game. The ready accessible but hold for even more complexity. palate is still very tight but offers black cherry and SPARKLING WINE Best 2018–2028. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. bitter prune accented by notes of black pepper, abv: 14% Price: $60 clove, graphite and nutmeg. It’s all supported by Sanpaolo 2012 Jacarando Rosé Extra Brut a backbone of assertive tannins. Drink after 2019. 85 Aglianico (Irpinia). Here’s an informal spar- Mastroberardino 2007 Naturalis Historia Vias Imports. —K.O. kler made with the Aglianico grape. The simple, 93 (Taurasi). Violets, leather, vanilla, subtle abv: 13.5% Price: $60 fresh palate offers crunchy cherry, strawberry and oak and black berry sensations all meld together in pink grapefruit alongside bright acidity and vigor- the glass. The rich, concentrated palate delivers ripe Pietracupa 2010 Taurasi. Aromas of blue ous, aggressive bubbles. Wineco Importing. Best black cherry and blueberry extract accented by mo- 89 flower, mature black fruit, underbrush and Buy. —K.O. cha, cinnamon, clove, white pepper and mineral. It’s subtle oak lead the nose of this Taurasi. The pal- abv: 10.5% Price: $6 soft and already extremely accessible, with velvety ate offers solid tannins and flavors of mature plum, tannins, but will age well for the next five years or stewed prune and plum cake, accented by a hint of so. Drink now through 2019. Winebow. —K.O. allspice. Panebianco. —K.O. ROSÉS abv: 13.5% Price: $90 abv: NA Price: $45
Librandi 2013 Rosato (Cirò). Made with the Monte Faliesi 2010 Taurasi. Blue flower, un- D’Antiche Terre 2008 Taurasi. Funky aromas 86 native grape Gaglioppo, this soft, friendly 92 derbrush, tobacco leaf, leather and mature 88 of barnyard, animal and overripe black fruit rosato from Calabria has delicate raspberry, cherry black fruit aromas lead the nose on the structured lead the nose of this robust Taurasi. The palate of- and strawberry sensations accented by a hint of but polished Taurasi from Fratelli Urciuolo. The fers dense black cherry, spearmint, bitter prune, cooking spices. Pair it with appetizers, grilled veg- balanced palate doles out juicy black cherry, black toasted oak, espresso and chocolate alongside firm, etables or cold cuts. Winebow. —K.O. plum, black pepper and thyme alongside fresh acid- drying tannins. Villa Italia. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $12 ity and a solid tannic backbone. Give it time to de- abv: 13.5% Price: $37 velop additional complexity; drink after 2020. Opici Re Manfredi 2013 Manfredi Rosa (Basili- Wines. —K.O. Donnachiara 2009 Taurasi. This Taurasi 86 cata). Made with Aglianico, this simple abv: 14% Price: $35 88 opens with earthy aromas of leather, ma- rosé opens with aromas of sour red berries, crushed ture black fruit and a whiff of barnyard. The palate strawberry and cake spices. The casual palate offers Contrade di Taurasi - Lonardo 2009 Coste offers bracing tannins and dense flavors of black- sweet Morello cherry and pink grapefruit accented 91 (Taurasi). This earthy Taurasi opens with berry, black cherry and sugar plum that are layered by notes of clove and sugary vanilla. Frederick Wild- aromas of ripe black fruit, blue flower, wet soil and with sugary-sweet vanilla, oak, toast and coffee. Mi- man & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. leather. The ripe, structured palate doles out fleshy chelangelo Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 black cherry accented by cracked black pepper and abv: 13.5% Price: $34 balsamic herbs. With bracing tannins, give this time to fully develop depth and complexity; drink after Villa Matilde 2008 Taurasi. This concen- SOUTHERN ITALY 2019. Oliver McCrum, Polaner. —K.O. 88 trated wine opens with aromas of ripe black abv: 14.5% Price: $70 fruit, smoke and subtle oak. The densely packed RED WINES palate delivers notes of black cherry, mineral and Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Piano di Monte- medicinal herbs. It’s still young, with bracing tan- TAURASI 91 vergine Riserva (Taurasi). Aged in both bar- nins that result in a mouth-drying finish. Drink af- riques and large casks, this hearty Taurasi opens ter 2018. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Contrade di Taurasi - Lonardo 2009 Vigne with aromas of toasted oak and ripe black fruit. The abv: 14% Price: $NA 94 d’Alto (Taurasi). Aromas of blue flower, rich palate slowly opens up to reveal dense black cherry black fruit, cooking spices, leather and thyme waft layered with chocolate, toast and Mediterranean Villa Raiano 2010 Taurasi. Aromas of under- out of the glass of this soulful young Taurasi. The spices, alongside drying tannins. Give this time to 88 brush, leather, black fruit, mocha and sub- palate offers a juicy core of black cherry accented open up and fully develop. Drink after 2019. Palm tle oak lead the nose of this young Taurasi. The pal- by notes of black pepper, nutmeg, eucalyptus, pipe Bay International. —K.O. ate is still young and tightly woven, but offers black tobacco and mineral, with firm acidity and velvety abv: 13.5% Price: $68 cherry, prune and black pepper alongside bracing tannins. It’s already delicious, but hold for addi- tannins. Drink after 2018. Siena Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $39
14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Cantine di Marzo 2010 Albertus (Taurasi). dimensional palate offers thick, jammy black fruit Masseria Felicia 2009 Etichetta Bronzo 87 This internationally-styled Taurasi opens and oak extract. Vin Divino. —K.O. 87 (Falerno del Massico). This hearty young red with aromas of oak extract, sawdust, coffee and abv: 14% Price: $46 offers aromas of stewed black fruit, oak and espres- whiffs of black fruit. The palate offers blackberry, so. The brooding palate delivers sugary black plum, sour cherry, bitter cocoa and espresso alongside ex- Nativ 2007 Taurasi. Acrid aromas of sweat ripe blackberry, tobacco, coffee bean and chocolate cruciatingly astringent wood tannins that dry out 84 along with oak extract and toasted cof- alongside massive tannins. Drink after 2019. Vinif- the mouth. Conexport Italy. —K.O. fee bean lead the nose. The thick, extracted palate era Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $67 delivers oak, raisins and sugary sweet sensations abv: 14.5% Price: $75 of blueberry syrup together with evident alcohol. Colli di Castelfranci 2010 Alta Valle (Taurasi). Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. 87 This wine opens with aromas of toast, black abv: 14.5% Price: $36 AGLIANICO DEL TABURNO berries, espresso, balsamic herbs and black spices. The extracted palate offers up ripe black cherry, Fontanavecchia 2007 Vigna Cataratte Riser- chocolate, coffee and licorice alongside bracing, FALERNO DEL MASSICO 90 va (Aglianico del Taburno). Here’s a bold drying tannins. Communal Brands. —K.O. wine that opens with aromas of underbrush, tilled abv: 14% Price: $NA Trabucco 2011 Rapicano (Falerno del Mas- soil and black plum. The juicy palate delivers ripe 88 sico). This Aglianico offers a mélange of aro- blackberry and rich black cherry accented by cinna- I Capitani 2007 Bosco Faiano (Taurasi). This mas, including vanilla, toast, ripe plum, prune, to- mon, black pepper, chocolate and licorice. This is a 87 jammy wine doles out overripe plum and bacco and a whiff of leather. The palate opens with big wine with enveloping, velvety tannins. The only mature dark-berry fruit, layered with a melted juicy black fruit accented by notes of vanilla, mint, drawback here is the evident alcohol, but the fruit is chocolate sensation. Warm and evolved, it has an tobacco and espresso, but excruciatingly aggressive delicious. This at its peak so drink soon. Haw River almost sugary-sweet palate that’s shy on freshness. tannins dominate the finish and give it an abrupt, Wine Man. —K.O. Vera Fine Wine. —K.O. drying finish. Give this time to unwind. Conexport abv: 15% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $36 Italy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $53 Fattoria La Rivolta 2010 Aglianico del Ta- Il Cancelliere 2010 Nero Né (Taurasi). This 88 burno. This big, earthy wine has aromas of 87 ripe Taurasi opens with aromas of nail var- Villa Matilde 2009 Falerno del Massico. ripe black plum, tilled soil, leather and coffee. The nish, overripe black fruit and hints of tar and tire 88 Here’s a structured blend of 80% Aglianico palate shows blackberry, prune marinated in sprits rubber. The dense, extracted palate is loaded with and 20% Piedirosso that offers sensations of lico- and black pepper alongside tightly woven and asser- mature black plum, stewed prunes marinated in rice, blackberry, graphite, spice, espresso, mineral tive tannins. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. spirits, chocolate and balsamic notes. It has brac- and oak. The dense fruit is supported by bracing abv: 14% Price: $25 ing tannins but is shy on freshness. Critical Mass tannins. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Fattoria La Rivolta 2009 Terre di Rivolta abv: 14% Price: $49 86 Riserva (Aglianico del Taburno). This Agli- Villa Matilde 2007 Vigna Camarato Riserva anico opens with aromas of new oak, vanilla, choco- Il Cancelliere 2007 Nero Né (Taurasi). This 88 (Falerno del Massico). Made from 80% late and overripe black fruit, all of which carry over 86 warm, forward wine has sensations of nail Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso, this opens with to the one-dimensional palate. It seems tired, and polish remover, underbrush, resin, mature black aromas of new oak, earth, leather and a funky hint the sugary sweetness, dense concentration and evi- plum and overripe black cherry. The evolved pal- of game. The palate offers blackberry, wild cherry, dent alcohol give the wine a lumbering character. T. ate is framed by astringent tannins that dry out the licorice and eucalyptus alongside aggressive, tightly Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. mouth. Critical Mass Selections. —K.O. knit tannins that need time to unwind and soften. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $49 Drink after 2017. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $79 Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2008 La Loggia del CAMPI FLEGREI 86 Cavaliere Riserva (Taurasi). This extracted, Ager Falernus 2011 Vino e Anima (Falerno dense and one-dimensional Taurasi delivers mature 87 del Massico). A blend of 80% Primitivo and Grotta del Sole 2012 Campi Flegrei. Here’s a black fruit, fennel, black pepper, licorice, toasted 20% Aglianico, this dense wine opens with aromas 89 vibrant red that has red berry, blue flower oak and coffee bean sensations alongside drying of toasted oak, spearmint and spice alongside ripe and spice aromas, with a whiff of salinity. The juicy wood tannins. It finishes abruptly. AP Wine Im- black fruit and prune. The one-dimensional palate palate offers fleshy red cherry and ripe raspberry -ac ports. —K.O. serves up mature—almost overripe—blackberry lay- cented by white pepper. With fresh acidity and soft abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ered with hints of vanilla extract, bitter prune and tannins, this cries out for food and would work well sugared coffee. Conexport Italy. —K.O. with pizza. Michael R. Downey Selections. —K.O. Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2008 Opera Mia (Taur- abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 86 asi). This dense Taurasi opens with black fruit, toasted oak and chocolate aromas. The ex- Masseria Felicia 2009 Ariepetrina (Falerno Grotta del Sole 2009 Montegauro Riserva tracted palate shows a heavy oak influence and is 87 del Massico). This blend of Aglianico and 88 (Campi Flegrei). This barrel-aged Piediros- framed by coffee, mocha and vanilla alongside evi- Piedirosso opens with mature plum and prune so opens with aromas of tilled earth, plum, prune, dent alcohol and bitter, raw wood tannins. AP Wine aromas as well as whiffs of hazelnut and chestnut. tobacco and mineral. The palate offers black fruit Imports. —K.O. The robust, warm palate delivers ripe blackberry, and spice, but this has already hit its ideal drinking abv: 14.5% Price: $50 stewed prune, licorice and espresso notes alongside window and the juicy fruit is starting to dry, so en- aggressive tannins that will need years to tame. Vi- joy this soon. Michael R. Downey Selections. —K.O. Vesevo 2008 Taurasi. This extracted wine nifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 86 opens with aromas of toasted wood, coffee, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 mushroom, chocolate and vanilla. The dense, one- Agnanum 2012 Per e’ palumm (Campi 87 Flegrei). Made with native grape Piedirosso,
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this wine opens with berry, spice and mineral aro- The juicy palate delivers a concentrated, black cher- Cantine di Marzo 2012 Cantine Storiche (Ir- mas along with a whiff of smoked ham. The palate ry flavor that’s accented by black pepper. It’s well 86 pinia). This Aglianico opens with aromas offers fresh acidity and a black cherry flavor that’s balanced, with fresh acidity and firm but tightly- of roasted coffee bean, toast and black fruit. The accented by black and white pepper. Scuola di Vino. knit tannins. Villa Italia. —K.O. oak-driven palate offers espresso, black pepper and —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 black cherry flavors, but it lacks fruit richness and abv: 12.5% Price: $20 ends on a note of drying wood tannins. Conexport Cantine di Marzo 2012 Aglianico (Irpinia). Italy. —K.O. Cantine Astroni 2012 Colle Rotondella (Cam- 88 This hearty Aglianico opens with earthy abv: 14% Price: $25 87 pi Flegrei). This wine opens with aromas of aromas of tilled soil, mature black fruit and a whiff prune, plum, blackberry and graphite. The palate of leather. The palate delivers black cherry, mint I Capitani 2010 Jumara Aglianico (Irpinia). offers raw red cherry, raspberry and a light touch of and Mediterranean herbs supported by a firmly tan- 86 This oak-driven Aglianico opens with aro- mineral alongside fresh acidity and drying tannins. nic backbone. Conexport Italy. —K.O. mas of coffee, toasted wood, espresso and black The Vine Collective. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18 fruit. The dense, extracted palate offers oaky vanilla abv: 12.5% Price: $18 and sugar-plum alongside drying and astringent Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Rubrato Aglianico wood tannins. Vera Fine Wine. —K.O. Cantine Federiciane 2013 Campi Flegrei. 88 (Irpinia). This young, fresh Aglianico opens abv: 13% Price: $25 87 This enjoyable wine opens with aromas of with aromas of ripe black fruit, forest floor and red berry, blackberry, blueberry and hints of white cooking spices. The linear palate offers ripe black I Capitani 2009 Emè (Irpinia). This blend pepper that carry on to the palate. It has an easy- cherry layered with notes of earth, licorice and 86 of Aglianico, Merlot and Sangiovese opens drinking style thanks to fresh acidity and smooth, cooking spice, all balanced by firm tannins. Palm with aromas of ripe black plum, toasted oak, choco- soft tannins. Wine Emporium. —K.O. Bay International. —K.O. late and game. The thick, one-dimensional palate is abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 overripe, offering stewed black cherry, prune, va- nilla and chocolate alongside drying wood tannins. Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Dal Re Aglianico Vera Fine Wine. —K.O. LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO 88 (Irpinia). This easy-drinking Aglianico of- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 fers succulent black cherry, plum and raspberry fla- Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Lacryma Christi vors accented by notes of cinnamon and clove. It’s Nativ 2010 Eremo San Quirico (Irpinia). 88 del Vesuvio. Blue flower, wild cherry, rasp- round, fresh and friendly. Drink soon to capture the 86 Here’s a monolithic Aglianico that has con- berry, cracked pepper and hints of tar and graphite juicy fruit. Palm Bay International. —K.O. centrated flavors of black cherry, blackberry extract all come together in this soft, easy drinking blend abv: 14% Price: $25 and toast layered with dark chocolate, vanilla and of Aglianico and Piedirosso. The juicy palate is sup- coffee. The ripe, one dimensional palate closes on a ported by bright acidity and supple tannins. It’s Luigi Tecce 2010 Satyricon (Irpinia). Here’s sugary note. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. made to be drunk young, so enjoy it soon. Palm Bay 88 a powerfully built Aglianico that offers sen- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 International. —K.O. sations of extremely ripe black cherry, blackberry, abv: 13% Price: $20 chocolate, toast and subtle oak. The dense palate is Sanpaolo 2008 Aglianico (Irpinia). This supported by a solid tannic backbone. Acid Inc Se- 86 dense Aglianico opens with aromas that Cantine Astroni 2012 Cratere Rosso (Lacryma lections. —K.O. recall resin, nail polish remover, stewed plum and 87 Christi del Vesuvio). Tilled earth, leather, abv: 15% Price: $45 chocolate. The meaty palate offers overripe black game, blue flower and black berry aromas waft out cherry and prune alongside aggressive tannins but of the glass when pouring this blend of Piedirosso, Mastroberardino 2012 Redimore Aglianico it’s evolved and shy on freshness. It finishes abrupt- Sciascinoso and Aglianico. The palate delivers raw 88 (Irpinia). This Aglianico opens with aromas ly, with an astringent, tannic close. Wineco Import- black currant and sour cherry accented by black of blue flower, red berries, coffee and earth. The pal- ing. —K.O. pepper and smoky mineral. There’s not a lot of fruit ate offers assertive tannins and dense black cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $24 richness, but the acidity is racy. Drink soon. The and raspberry flavors that are accented by notes of Vine Collective. —K.O. black spice. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $28 TERRE DEL VOLTURNO
Terredora Di Paolo 2010 Lacryma Christi del Colli di Castelfranci 2010 Candriano (Irpin- Alois 2011 Cunto-Murella Pallagrello Nero 87 Vesuvio. Here’s an earthy wine that opens 87 ia). This dense and extracted Aglianico has 90 (Terre del Volturno). This bold wine opens with aromas of tilled earth, ripe berry and game. toasted oak, chocolate, mocha, black cherry, espres- with intense aromas of mature black fruit, black The palate offers black cherry, ripe raspberry, plum, so, vanilla and eucalyptus sensations. The palate is cooking spice, mint, blue flower and leather. The fig and coffee, with a note of bitter nut on the finish. accompanied by teeth-coating, mouth-drying tan- savory palate offers juicy black cherry accented Vias Imports. —K.O. nins. Communal Brands. —K.O. by sage, thyme and black pepper. Racy acidity and abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA bracing tannins need time to tame. Drink 2016– 2026. Soilair Selection. —K.O. I Capitani 2012 Guaglione (Irpinia). This abv: 13% Price: $50 IRPINIA 87 round and easy-drinking wine, 95% Agli- anico and 5% Sangiovese, is loaded with a juicy Nanni Copè 2012 Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Serpico (Irpinia). black-cherry flavor that’s accented by hints of black 90 (Terre del Volturno). Made from native 91 For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. pepper and mineral. It’s soft, fresh and incredibly grape Pallagrello Nero along with 5% Aglianico and abv: 14% Price: $85 food friendly. Pair it with everything from hearty 5% Casavecchia, this robust wine opens with aro- pasta dishes to barbecue. Vera Fine Wine. —K.O. mas of black fruit, earth, game, leather and black D’Antiche Terre 2011 Aglianico (Irpinia). This abv: 13% Price: $16 spice. The dense palate delivers rich blackberry, 90 bold Aglianico has mature black-fruit aro- black cherry and black pepper, with robust tannins mas, with whiffs of eucalyptus, spice and leather.
16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 and a solid acidic backbone. Drink after 2016. Indie mint alongside aggressive, astringent tannins. Vias Wineries. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: 13% Price: $55 Grifalco 2009 Damaschito (Aglianico del Alois 2011 Trebulanum Casavecchia (Terre Terre del Principe 2010 Piancastelli (Terre 94 Vulture). This structured and delicious 89 del Volturno). Made with native grape 86 del Volturno). This thick, extracted wine is wine opens with aromas of tilled earth, blue flower Casavecchia, this opens with a fragrance of blue made from 70% Pallagrello and 30% Casavecchia and mature black fruit. The savory, juicy palate de- flower, plum, earth and leather. The dense, juicy grapes, a portion of which was overripened on the livers notes of ripe plum, blackberry, Mediterranean palate offers fleshy black cherry, cinnamon and vine. It opens with aromas of leafy underbrush, oak, herbs and mineral, all supported by assertive tan- black raspberry alongside soft, round tannins and toast, prune and vanilla. The lumbering, monolithic nins. Drink 2015–2024. Multiple U.S. importers. fresh acidity. Soilair Selection. —K.O. palate is sugary-sweet, offering vanilla extract, Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $50 toasted oak and sugar plum. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $75 La Masserie 2010 Vinalia (Terre del Voltur- Basilisco 2010 Aglianico del Vulture. Ripe 88 no). Made with the native grape Casavec- Vestini Campagnano 2011 Pallagrello Nero 91 blackberry, black plum, cracked pepper, tilled chia, this has a lovely fragrance of blue flower, tilled 86 (Terre del Volturno). This wine opens with soil and licorice all weave together in the glass of soil, leather and balsamic herbs. The soft, juicy aromas of sawdust, oak, tire rubber, coffee and ma- this bold and spicy Aglianico. It’s still young, with palate offers supple tannins and fleshy blackberry ture black fruit. The palate is also dominated by nervous acidity and aggressive tannins, so give it flavor, accented with spice. Wine Emporium. —K.O. wood sensations, offering oak extract, roasted coffee time to fully develop. Drink after 2020. Soilair Se- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 bean, vanilla and espresso that smother the hints lection. —K.O. of ripe black plum that peek through. Regal Wine abv: 14% Price: $42 Selvanova 2011 Hero (Terre del Volturno). Imports Inc. —K.O. 88 This opens with aromas of toast, plum and abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Bisceglia 2007 Gudarrà Riserva (Aglianico chocolate that are accented by whiffs of blue flower, 91 del Vulture). This bold Aglianico opens with tilled soil and leather. The palate offers black cher- Vestini Campagnano 2011 Casavecchia (Terre earthy sensations of tilled soil, leather, mature ry, plum, nutmeg and clove alongside racy acidity 85 del Volturno). This wine opens with funky black plum and vanilla. The dense palate is loaded and astringent wood tannins that dry out the finish. aromas of tire rubber and nail polish remover that with blueberry extract, fig and ripe blackberry fla- Terroir Society Wines. —K.O. carry over to the palate along with toast and ex- vors that are layered with mocha, chocolate and abv: 13% Price: $24 presso notes. It lacks fruit richness and has a green, vanilla. Drink now through 2022. Winebow. —K.O. bitter finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 Terre del Principe 2012 Castello delle abv: 13.5% Price: $45 88 Femmine (Terre del Volturno). Here’s a San Martino 2011 Arberesko (Aglianico del unique blend of two of Campania’s little known 91 Vulture). Here’s a robust wine that opens grapes, Casavecchia and Pallagrello Nero. It opens CAMPANIA with aromas of blue flower, earth, black fruit and with a pretty fragrance of blue flower, ripe berries a whiff of new leather. The juicy palate delivers and spice. The soft, round palate offers red berry Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Sirica (Campa- ripe black cherry, mature raspberry, black pepper and fleshy blackberry accented by cinnamon-toast 94 nia). For full review see page 3. Editors’ and balsamic herb, all supported by a firm, tannic notes. Drink soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. Choice. backbone. Hold for additional complexity; best from abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 2016–2026. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $28 Nanni Copè 2010 Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco Cantine Astroni 2010 Rais (Campania). 87 (Terre del Volturno). This Pallagrello Nero- 89 Underbrush, black pepper and dark berry San Martino 2008 Kamai (Aglianico del Vul- based wine opens with funky aromas of game, earth aromas lead the way on this blend of 80% Aglianico 91 ture). Toast, espresso, mocha, plum and and overripe black fruit. The tight palate offers dry- and 20% Piedirosso. The vibrant palate boasts racy leather aromas lead the nose on this structured ing tannins and mature flavors of blackberry and acidity and velvety tannins, with juicy red cherry wine. The palate offers bracing tannins and succu- prune layered with sweet oak, vanilla, mint and and spicy undertones of clove and nutmeg. The Vine lent Morello cherry and cassis layered with notes sweet and sour sauce. Indie Wineries. —K.O. Collective. —K.O. of chocolate, licorice, mint and vanilla. Drink after abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 13% Price: $21 2018. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50 Terre del Principe 2011 Ambruco Pallagrello Mastroberardino 2012 Aglianico (Campan- 87 Nero (Terre del Volturno). This dense wine 88 ia). Blue flower, tilled soil and mature black Bisceglia 2010 Gudarrà (Aglianico del Vul- opens with blackberry, plum, toast, earth and leath- berry aromas pour from the glass of this young 90 ture). This structured, polished wine opens er aromas. The palate is overwhelmed by oak, show- Aglianico. The warm, forward palate doles out ripe with aromas of red currants, scorched soil, black ing espresso, toast, spearmint and vanilla while black cherry, black pepper, espresso, licorice and fruit and allspice. The firm palate delivers black- licorice and blackberry sensations remain in the toast alongside velvety tannins. Winebow. —K.O. berry, mocha and sage alongside nervous acidity background. It lacks the fruit richness to support abv: 13.5% Price: $25 and bracing yet velvety tannins. Drink after 2018. the heavy oak influence, and astringent wood tan- Winebow. —K.O. nins dry out the mouth. Vias Imports. —K.O. Villa Raiano 2012 Aglianico (Campania). This abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $57 87 young Aglianico is still closed but the palate eventually reveals black plum and black cherry ac- Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Aglianico del Vul- Terre del Principe 2011 Centomoggia Casavec- cented by notes of black pepper. It has a brooding 90 ture. Vibrant and structured, this expres- 87 chia (Terre del Volturno). This wine opens character, with bracing tannins that leave a drying sion of Aglianico opens with a fragrance that recalls with aromas of plum, smoke, game, toast and finish. Drink 2016–2022. Siena Imports. —K.O. blue flower, dark woodland berries, forest floor espresso. The dense, extracted palate offers black- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 and balsamic notes. The polished palate offers red berry, coffee, licorice, oak, black pepper and spear- cherry, black pepper, licorice and menthol alongside
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subtle oak. It’s well balanced but still young, with brooding palate offers mature blackberry, black Mustilli 2013 Piedirosso (Sannio). This de- nervous acidity and assertive tannins. Drink after cherry, black licorice and cracked pepper alongside 88 lightful wine opens with blue flower, red 2018. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. big, chewy tannins. Soilair Selection. —K.O. berry and spice aromas. The juicy palate delivers —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 black cherry, red raspberry, white pepper and spice abv: 13.5% Price: $30 alongside silky tannins and bright acidity. Made to Bisceglia 2011 Terra di Vulcano (Aglianico be drunk young, it’s perfect for everyday fare and Grifalco 2011 Aglianico del Vulture. This 87 del Vulture). Here’s a young Aglianico that informal occasions. Casa de Case. Best Buy. —K.O. 90 delicious and affordable wine offers a fra- opens with aromas of blue flower, earth, plum and abv: 12% Price: $13 grance of blue flower, tilled soil, game and leather, spice. The simple but savory palate delivers ripe along with whiffs of mature black fruit. The juicy blackberry, raspberry and black licorice alongside Montevetrano 2012 Core (Colli di Salerno). palate delivers ripe blackberry, black cherry, black firm tannins. Winebow. —K.O. 87 This young Aglianico opens with aromas of pepper and licorice alongside firm but refined tan- abv: NA Price: $15 ripe black and red berries, oak, espresso, leather and nins. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. vanilla. The concentrated palate offers red cherry, —K.O. Grifalco 2011 Gricos (Aglianico del Vulture). raspberry and licorice alongside drying wood tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 87 This vibrant wine shows the lighter side of nins. Winebow. —K.O. Aglianico while offering great value. It doles out abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Re Manfredi 2010 Aglianico del Vulture. juicy wild cherry, white pepper and clove alongside 90 Aromas of rose, violet, all spice and black bright acidity and smooth tannins. Pair it with bar- Sorrentino 2012 Frupa (Pompeiano). Made berries lead the nose on this structured Aglianico, becue or hearty pasta dishes. Multiple U.S. import- 87 with the native grape Piedirosso, this opens with bright acidity and velvety tannins. The palate ers. Best Buy. —K.O. with aromas of red berry, cracked pepper and a offers up fleshy black cherry and raspberry layered abv: 13.5% Price: $12 hint of orange peel. The palate delivers plum, black with black pepper, nutmeg and mocha. Frederick cherry, toast and espresso alongside drying wood Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. tannins that cut the finish short. Arte Vino. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35 OTHER RED WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $32
Re Manfredi 2008 Vigneto Serpara (Agli- Montevetrano 2010 Montevetrano (Colli Tommasone 2012 Per’e Palummo (Ischia). 90 anico del Vulture). Made from 50-year old 92 di Salerno). This structured yet polished 87 This informal wine opens with ripe red and vines, this concentrated wine offers dense black wine, made from a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvi- black berry aromas. The palate offers crisp black currant and blackberry flavors that are layered with gnon, 30% Aglianico and 20% Merlot, opens with cherry and black berry flavors that are accented by chocolate, black licorice, coffee, grilled red peppers, intense aromas of tilled earth, mature black fruit, a note of graphite alongside nervous acidity. Pair sage, oak and thyme sensations. The tannins are leather, graphite and spice. The Juicy palate offers this with pasta dishes topped with hearty sauces. firm and drying; drink after 2018. Frederick Wild- fleshy blackberry, black currant, black pepper and VinUS Inc. —K.O. man & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. mineral alongside silky smooth tannins. Hold for abv: NA Price: $23 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 more complexity. Drink 2015–2025. Winebow. Cel- lar Selection. —K.O. Tommasone 2009 Pignanera (Epomeo). Regio Cantina 2010 Donpà (Aglianico del abv: 13.5% Price: $80 87 This blend of Aglianico and Montelpulciano 89 Vulture). This solid Aglianico opens with opens with slightly funky aromas that include nail aromas of leather, underbrush, game and ripe plum. Mustilli 2010 Cesco di Nece Aglianico (Sant’ polish remover, stewed prune and oak. The palate The structured palate delivers ripe blackberry ac- 91 Agata dei Goti). This elegant Aglianico boasts offers toasted oak, vanilla, sweetened coffee and cented by notes of licorice, sage and eucalyptus. a lovely bouquet of blue flower, blackberry, spice sugar plum alongside astringent wood tannins. Vin There’s a subtle warmth of alcohol and firm tannins. and a hint of saddle leather. The savory palate de- US Inc. —K.O. Best after 2016. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —K.O. livers ripe black cherry and blackberry layered with abv: 13% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 notes of black pepper and cinnamon. Solid tannins and fresh acidity give it balance, while smoky min- Vestini Campagnano 2012 Concarosso (Gal- San Martino 2011 Siir (Aglianico del Vulture). eral signals the close. Casa de Case. —K.O. 87 luccio). This robust blend of 85% Aglianico 89 This opens with fruity aromas of plum and abv: 13% Price: $22 and 15% Pallagrello Nero has aromas of toasted black berry, alongside whiffs of tilled earth and oak, stewed prune and baked plum. The palate of- spice. It’s still a bit closed but the palate reveals Tommasone 2010 Pithecusa (Epomeo). A fers bracing tannins and a blackberry core alongside black cherry, raisin and clove supported by a tan- 90 blend of Aglianico and Piedirosso, this sa- notes of black pepper, vanilla and graphite. Regal nic backbone. Drink 2015–2021. Montcalm Wine vory, hearty wine opens with earthy aromas of un- Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. Importers. —K.O. derbrush and dark spices. The dense palate delivers abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ripe black-cherry flavor that’s layered with black pepper, clove and cinnamon. A mineral note closes Villa Matilde 2012 Cecubo (Roccamonfina). A Taverna 2010 Aglianico del Vulture. Blue the juicy finish, alongside firm but silky tannins. -Vi 87 blend of Primitivo, Piedirosso and other na- 89 flower, tilled soil, leather, blackberry, nUS Inc. —K.O. tive grapes and made with no added sulfites, this licorice and black pepper sensations all come to- abv: 13% Price: $27 dense wine offers mint, eucalyptus, oak, fig and cin- gether in this vibrant, straightforward Aglianico. namon spice sensations. It could use more fruity The dense, juicy palate is framed by tightly woven, Fattoria La Rivolta 2012 Piedirosso (Tabur- richness, and astringent tannins mark the close. brooding tannins and a vein of mineral. Superior 88 no). Here’s an informal and delicious wine Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Wines . —K.O. that opens with aromas of blue flower, ripe berry, abv: 13.5% Price: $37 abv: 14% Price: $20 tilled earth and leather. The palate offers fleshy dark cherry restrained by nervous acidity and mineral Marisa Cuomo 2009 Furore Rosso Riserva Basilisco 2010 Teodosio (Aglianico del Vul- notes. Pair with pizza or hearty pasta dishes. T. Ed- 86 (Costa d’Amalfi). A fifty-fifty blend of Agli- 88 ture). Here’s a savory wine that opens with ward Wines Ltd. —K.O. anico and Piedirosso, this monolithic wine is domi- aromas of black berry, earth, leather and spice. The abv: 13% Price: $21 nated by sweet oak, coffee and espresso sensations
18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 along with undertones of black fruit. Additional peach, citrus zest and pineapple. Maritime Wine fruity richness would better support the over- SICILIA Trading Collective. —K.O. whelming oak and astringent wood tannins. Mul- abv: 12.5% Price: $26 tiple U.S. importers. —K.O. Planeta 2011 Chardonnay (Sicilia). For full re- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 91 view see page 8. Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2013 C’D’C’ abv: 13.5% Price: $42 87 (Sicilia). A blend of Grillo, Chardonnay, Vesevo 2010 Aglianico (Beneventano). Inzolia and Catarratto in equal parts, this vibrant 85 This wine opens with red berry, spice and Tasca d’Almerita 2013 Cavallo delle Fate Grillo and enjoyable wine opens with aromas of stone spearmint aromas. The dense palate is surprisingly 91 (Sicilia). Here’s a crisp, delicious white that fruit, citrus and pineapple. The juicy palate deliv- sweet, with sugary black plum alongside drying, opens with aromas of tropical fruit, pear and stone ers white peach, yellow apple and a hint of almond rough, wood tannins. Vin Divino. —K.O. fruit. The savory palate offers juicy white peach, alongside bright acidity. Maritime Wine Trading abv: 13% Price: $18 pineapple and nectarine flavors that are accented by Collective. —K.O. intense mineral notes and supported by a backbone abv: 12.5% Price: $18 of zesty acidity. Winebow. —K.O. SICILY abv: 13% Price: $20 Cottanera 2013 Barbazzale (Sicilia). Here’s 87 a pretty blend of 50% Inzolia and 50% WHITE WINES Alessandro di Camporeale 2013 Vigna di Viognier that has aromas of honeysuckle, hay and 90 Mandranova Grillo (Sicilia). Here’s a vibrant aromatic herbs. The palate offers yellow peach and ETNA white that opens with a fragrance of white spring golden apple accented by hints of sage and thyme. flower, tropical fruit and citrus. The linear palate Cottanera USA. —K.O. Biondi 2012 Chianta (Etna). A blend of boasts juicy lemon-lime, kiwi, papaya and elegant abv: 13% Price: $15 93 90% Carricante, 10% Catarratto and Min- white peach alongside mineral notes and crisp acid- nella, this delicious golden-colored wine seamlessly ity. —K.O. Donnafugata 2013 Anthilia (Sicilia). Here’s a weaves together sensations of lemon drop, nectar- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 87 refreshing white made from a blend Catar- ine, dried apricot, ginger and cinnamon alongside ratto and other white varieties that opens with bright acidity. It’s a sophisticated wine boasting Tasca d’Almerita 2013 Leone d’Almerita (Si- delicate aromas of grapefruit and citrus blossom. depth and complexity. Oliver McCrum Wines. Edi- 89 cilia). Here’s a refreshing and savory blend The straightforward palate offers juicy white peach tors’ Choice. —K.O. of Catarratto, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon and Tra- and Bartlett pear, with just a hint of sea salt on the abv: 13.5% Price: $25 miner. It’s loaded with succulent white peach, juicy close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. pineapple and citrus zest. Crisp acidity gives this a abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Biondi 2013 Outis (Etna). Ciro Biondi’s blend clean, quenching finish. Winebow. —K.O. 92 of 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto and abv: 12% Price: $20 Feudo Principi di Butera 2013 Insolia (Sicilia). Minnella is a stunning expression of Etna. It pens 87 Crisp and light-bodied, this refreshing Inso- with beautiful floral aromas of Spanish Broom and Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2012 Laùdari lia offers honeysuckle, exotic fruit and bright citrus orange blossom. The palate delivers concentrated 88 Chardonnay (Sicilia). This internationally- sensations, along with notes of white almond. Fresh lemon-lime, apple, pear, white peach, intense min- styled, full-bodied Sicilian Chardonnay opens with acidity gives it clean, quenching finish. Zonin USA. eral and Mediterranean herbs. The creamy fruit is oak-driven aromas of toast, butterscotch and va- —K.O. perfectly balanced by crisp acidity. Oliver McCrum nilla that carry through to the palate alongside fla- abv: 13% Price: $17 Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. vors of golden apple and lemon zest. Maritime Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Trading Collective. —K.O. Sallier de la Tour 2013 Inzolia (Sicilia). This abv: 13.5% Price: $36 87 easy-drinking wine boasts sensations of tart Destro 2009 Aspide (Etna). Creamy wild green apple, ripe Bartlett pear and juicy pineapple. 92 cherry, crushed strawberry, exotic incense, Tasca d’Almerita 2013 Regaleali Bianco (Si- The succulent palate is supported by crisp acidity clove and cinnamon-spice spill from the glass when 88 cilia). Made from a blend of Inzolia, Gre- that gives it a clean, refreshing finish. Domaines and you pour this delicious wine made on the slopes of canico, Catarratto and Chardonnay, this bright, re- Appelations. Best Buy. —K.O. Mount Etna. It’s very youthful, with fresh red-berry freshing wine is great for summer sipping. It offers abv: 12% Price: $11 fruit and bright acidity balanced by polished tan- juicy white peach, tart green apple, lemon zest and nins. A licorice notes signals the close. Panebianco. grapefruit sensations that slide easily across the Feudo Principi di Butera 2013 Grillo (Sicilia). Editors’ Choice. —K.O. palate. Winebow. —K.O. 86 This light and refreshing wine is perfect for abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 12% Price: $15 everyday fare. It has aromas of pineapple, lime zest and a hint of Mediterranean herbs that all carry Graci 2012 Bianco (Etna). Spanish Broom, Valle dell’Acate 2012 Bidis Chardonnay (Si- over to the palate. Pair this with light first courses 92 lemon blossom, pear, nectarine, candied 88 cilia). Fermented and aged in barriques, or grilled vegetables. Zonin USA. —K.O. citrus, Mediterranean herbs and intense mineral this structured Chardonnay opens with aromas of abv: 12.5% Price: $NA sensations are all woven together, lifted by bright subtle oak, citrus and lemon drop. The palate de- acidity. Made with Carricante and Catarratto, this livers fresh acidity and flavors of toast, apple, but- is already delicious now, but will develop complex- terscotch and nut. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. TERRE SICILIANE ity over the next few years. Massanois Imports. Edi- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 tors’ Choice. —K.O. Hauner 2012 Carlo Hauner (Terre Siciliane). abv: 13% Price: $27 Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2013 Adènzia 90 Orange blossom, nectarine, lemon drop, 87 (Sicilia). A blend of 50% Grillo and 50% ripe yellow peach and candied tangerine peel take Inzolia, this offers tropical fruit and floral aromas. center stage on this delicious blend of Inzolia, The palate offers lively acidity and flavors of white Catarratto and Grillo. The juicy fruit palate is ac-
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cented by clove, mineral and seaside salinity, all Stemmari 2012 Moscato (Terre Siciliane). Hauner 2013 Hierà Rosé (Terre Siciliane). balanced by bright acidity. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. 86 Loaded with juicy exotic fruit, mature apri- 88 Here’s a well-balanced and refreshing rosa- abv: 13% Price: $18 cot, yellow peach and tangerine flavors, this semi- to made from 60% Alicante, 30% Nocera and 10% sweet, slightly fizzy and delightful wine is perfect Calabrese. It’s loaded with crushed red cherry, ripe Di Giovanna 2013 Gerbino Bianco (Terre Si- for Sunday brunch or picnics. Prestige Wine Im- strawberry and mineral sensations supported by 87 ciliane). Made from a blend of organically ports Corp. Best Buy. —K.O. crisp acidity. It closes on a note of pistachio. Emp- farmed Chardonnay, Grillo and 5% Viognier, this abv: 8.5% Price: $10 son USA Ltd. —K.O. opens with delicate aromas of honeysuckle and abv: 12.5% Price: $22 stone fruit. The bright palate offers white peach, Corvo 2013 Bianco (Terre Siciliane). Made golden apple and a hint of citrus alongside crisp 85 from a blend of native grapes Insolia and Cottanera 2013 Barbazzale Rosato (Etna). acidity. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. Grecanico, this is a light-bodied but refreshing 87 This robust rosato, made from the native abv: 13% Price: $15 wine that recalls lemon zest, peach and green apple. grape Nerello Mascalese on the slopes of Mount Fresh acidity gives it a clean, bright finish. Pair this Etna, is loaded with dark cherry and crushed straw- Donnafugata 2013 Lighea (Terre Siciliane). with vegetarian appetizers. Corvo USA. —K.O. berry sensations. The bright, juicy palate is accent- 87 Here’s a dry version of the Zibibo grape that abv: 11.5% Price: $12 ed by notes of cinnamon and vanilla. Pair this with opens with intense aromas of white rose, stone fruit appetizers, quiche or summer salads. Cottanera and candied citrus. The palate delivers ripe yellow Corvo 2013 Irmana Grillo (Terre Siciliane). USA. —K.O. peach, apricot and honeydew alongside a touch of 85 This opens with unusual aromas that recall abv: 12.5% Price: $15 rosemary on the close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. plastic and wax. The simple palate offers fleeting —K.O. sensations of tropical fruit, yellow apple and lemon Di Giovanna 2013 Gerbino Rosato di Nerello abv: 12.5% Price: $23 zest. Corvo USA. —K.O. 87 Mascalese (Terre Siciliane). Made from or- abv: 11.5% Price: $13 ganically-farmed Nerello Mascalese grapes, one of Duca di Salaparuta 2013 Calanica (Terre Si- Sicily’s most noble red varieties, this linear rosato is 87 ciliane). A blend of Insolia and Chardonnay, loaded with McIntosh apple, cherry and pink grape- this wine opens with subdued aromas of yellow OTHER WHITE WINES fruit. A hint of clove adds interest while crisp acid- spring flowers and pear. The round, straightforward ity keeps it fresh. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. palate offers golden apple, white peach and lemon Donnafugata 2010 Chiarandà Chardonnay abv: 13% Price: $15 zest alongside fresh acidity. Corvo USA. —K.O. 90 (Contessa Entellina). This rich Chardon- abv: 11.5% Price: $15 nay opens with aromas of candied citrus, subtle oak Spadafora 2013 Rosato (Terre Siciliane). and Mediterranean herbs. The warm palate delivers 86 This easy drinking rosato has pretty but Duca di Salaparuta 2013 Colomba Platino baked yellow apple, nectarine, lemon drop and a va- fleeting aromas of strawberry and baking spices. 87 (Terre Siciliane). Made from the native Si- nilla accent. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. The fresh, informal palate offers wild cherry, rasp- cilian grape Insolia, this enjoyable wine opens with abv: 13% Price: $45 berry and a hint of clove. Sip this as an apéritif or aromas that recall exotic fruit and yellow fragrant pair with summer salads. Montcalm Wine Import- flowers. The fresh palate offers white peach, pine- Fazio 2013 Calebianche Catarratto (Erice). ers. —K.O. apple and citrus alongside bright acidity. Corvo 86 Made from native grape Catarratto, this abv: 13% Price: $19 USA. —K.O. easy-drinking wine opens with aromas of white abv: 12% Price: $17 flower and stone fruit. The palate delivers white peach and lemon zest flavors alongside fresh acid- SICILY Stemmari 2013 Chardonnay (Terre Siciliane). ity, ending bright. Pazzione Imports. —K.O. 87 Here’s a well-priced Chardonny from Sic- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 RED WINES ily that boasts golden apple, citrus and pineapple sensations, with a hint of yellow peach. It’s easy ETNA drinking, with crisp acidity that gives it a refresh- ROSÉS ing, clean finish. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Benanti 2009 Nerello Mascalese (Etna). Buy. —K.O. Pietradolce 2013 Rosato (Etna). From fifty- 95 Here’s a gorgeous, delicious wine that’s all abv: 13.5% Price: $10 92 year old, high altitude vines on Mt. Etna, about sheer elegance. It’s loaded with alluring blue this is a stunning and structured rosato made from flower, creamy wild cherry and black raspberry sen- Tenuta Rapitalà 2012 Grand Cru Chardon- native grape Nerello Mascalese. It’s loaded with fi- sations accented by notes of carob, clove and white 87 nay (Terre Siciliane). Aged in barriques, nesse, boasting tart apple, wild cherry, strawberry, pepper. This is impeccably balanced, with fresh this Sicilian Chardonnay is dominated by wood. white pepper, red grapefruit and intense mineral acidity, silky, smooth tannins and a long, lingering It opens with aromas of oak extract, toast, vanilla sensations alongside crisp acidity. Empson USA finish. It already boasts great depth and complexity, and butterscotch that all carry over to the warm Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. but will continue to evolve for years. Multiple U.S. palate alongside warm notes of lemon drop, yellow abv: 13% Price: $21 importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. apple skin, walnut. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. abv: 14% Price: $50 —K.O. Graci 2013 Rosato (Etna). Made from the abv: 14.5% Price: $37 89 native grape Nerello Mascalese grown on Benanti 2011 Serra della Contessa (Etna). Mount Etna, this salmon colored rosato offers 94 This gorgeous wine opens with fragrances Cusumano 2013 Insolia (Terre Siciliane). bright red cherry, juicy pink grapefruit, nectarine, of blue flower, moist earth, leather and ripe berry. 86 This bright wine opens with aromas of white pepper and mineral sensations. The savory The delicious palate delivers succulent black cherry, white flowers and citrus. The palate offers juicy palate is balanced by vibrant acidity. Massanois Im- cinnamon, white pepper and balsamic herbs along- lemon-lime and white almond alongside crisp acid- ports. —K.O. side smooth, silky tannins. It’s already delicious ity that gives it a clean, fresh finish. Terlato Wines abv: 13.5% Price: $20 now, but hold for complexity. Drink now–2026. International. —K.O. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $65
20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Biondi 2011 Cisterna Fuori (Etna). Aromas of wild cherry, nutmeg and white pepper sensations. of carob and clove. It’s a bit evolved, so enjoy this 93 tilled soil, blue flower, new saddle leather, It’s focused and loaded with finesse. Drink now soon. Panebianco. —K.O. underbrush and woodland berry waft from the glass through 2023. Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $52 after pouring this savory wine. The spicy palate of- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 fers creamy black cherry and raspberry layered with Girolamo Russo 2011 Feudo (Etna). Made white pepper, clove and cinnamon. The juicy pal- Girolamo Russo 2011 San Lorenzo (Etna). 89 with the native grape Nerello Mascalese, ate is supported by firm, polished tannins and fresh 91 Concentrated black cherry, exotic incense, this structured wine opens with aromas of coffee, acidity. Drink after 2016. Oliver McCrum Wines. blue flower, vanilla and white pepper jump out of espresso, black berries and subtle oak. The palate —K.O. the glass after pouring this structured wine. The offers up ripe black cherry and licorice, alongside abv: 13.5% Price: $NA delicious palate is balanced by fresh acidity and bracing tannins and evident alcohol. Panebianco. silky tannins. Drink now through 2021. Panebianco. —K.O. Pietradolce 2011 Vigna Barbagalli (Etna). —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 93 Made from 80- to 100-year-old vines, this abv: 14.5% Price: $40 compelling, earthy wine initially opens with funky Vivera 2010 Martinella (Etna). Made with aromas that burn off in the glass to reveal leather, Graci 2012 Rosso (Etna). This elegant expres- 89 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello tilled soil, blue flower and ripe berry. The palate 91 sion of the Nerello Mascalese grape grown on Cappuccio, this opens with aromas of black fruit, delivers black and red cherry accented by white the slopes of Mount Etna has a lovely fragrance of subtle oak, toast and vanilla. The palate offers juicy pepper, cinnamon and black pepper. With firm but blue flower, berry and spice. The polished palate black cherry and raspberry flavors that are lightly velvety tannins, give this a few more years to let it offers flavors of wild cherry, crushed strawberry, accented by notes of clove and chocolate. The tan- fully develop; drink 2016–2026. Empson USA Ltd. mint, cinnamon and vanilla alongside fresh acidity. nis are polished. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. —K.O. Energizing mineral signals the close. Massanois Im- abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $102 ports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Cottanera 2013 Barbazzale Rosso (Etna). Benanti 2010 Nerello Cappuccio (Etna). 88 Here’s a straightforward, savory wine that 92 Made entirely from the native grape Ner- Benanti 2012 Rossodiverzella (Etna). This has aromas of black berries, toast, spice and bell ello Cappuccio grown on Mount Etna, this polished 90 finessed and delicious blend of 80% Ner- peppers. The palate offers dense black cherry, black wine opens with aromas of ripe red berries, under- ello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio delivers currants, black pepper and licorice, alongside pol- brush, violet and leather. The delicious palate deliv- creamy strawberry, Morello cherry, white pepper ished tannins. Cottanera USA. —K.O. ers succulent wild cherry, ripe raspberry, carob, co- and clove sensations, with hints of Mediterranean abv: NA Price: $15 coa and orange peel alongside silky, smooth tannins. herbs. The silky palate is balanced by bright acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. Cottanera 2010 Etnarosso (Etna). This wine abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $25 88 opens with aromas that recall mature black cherry, toast, vanilla, subtle oak, coffee and choco- Benanti 2010 Rovittello (Etna). A blend of Girolamo Russo 2011 Feudo di Mezzo (Etna). late that carry through to the palate alongside brac- 92 Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, 90 Made from Nerello Mascalese, this opens ing tannins. The fruity richness doesn’t quite stand this wine opens with aromas of red berry, turned with aromas of spice and black fruit. The palate of- up to the oak influence. Cottanera USA. —K.O. soil and baking spice. The structured, elegant palate fers black cherry, licorice, black pepper and subtle abv: 13.5% Price: $49 offers nervous acidity and flavors of Morello cherry oak alongside bracing tannins. You’ll also notice a and ripe strawberry, accented by Mediterranean subtle warmth on the finish. Panebianco. —K.O. herbs and spice. Drink 2015–2025. Multiple U.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 VITTORIA importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Graci 2011 Quota 600 Arcurìa (Etna). This Valle dell’Acate 2011 Cerasuolo di Vittoria. 90 full-bodied wine opens with earthy aromas 92 Made from a blend of Nero d’Avola and Biondi 2012 San Nicolò (Etna). This lumi- of underbrush, truffle, leather and game. The juicy Frappato, this gorgeous wine offers intense fra- 92 nous, ruby colored wine opens with a lovely palate delivers ripe wild cherry and raspberry, ac- grances of blue flower, forest floor, pine sap and bouquet of violet, rose, new leather, woodland berry cented by white pepper and cinnamon alongside woodland berry. The smooth, juicy palate delivers and baking spice. The bright palate is loaded with firm tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Massanois Imports. concentrated raspberry and black cherry flavors, finesse and smooth tannins, deliveing crushed red —K.O. with hints of licorice and Mediterranean herbs. cherry and wild strawberry accented by clove and abv: 14% Price: $40 Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. cinnamon. Enjoy now through 2020. Oliver Mc- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Crum Wines. —K.O. Tenuta di Fessina 2009 Riserva Il Musmeci abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 (Etna). Spice, berry, earth, leather, tobacco Valle dell’Acate 2013 Il Frappato (Vittoria and blue flower aromas lead the nose of this elegant 90 Frappato). This fragrant, light-bodied and Girolamo Russo 2012 A’Rina (Etna). Made wine. The ripe, round palate delivers fleshy black savory Sicilian red opens with intense aromas of 92 with Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello cherry and raspberry, accented by white pepper and blue flower, rose and red berries. The bright, silky Cappuccio, this structured but elegant wine opens cinnamon and framed by polished tannins. Drink palate delivers juicy strawberry, crushed red cher- with aromas of underbrush, mature black fruit and 2015–2019. Winebow. —K.O. ry and white pepper alongside fresh acidity. Chill graphite. The balanced palate delivers black cherry, abv: 14% Price: $50 this for 20 minutes and sip on the deck for a per- Mediterranean herb and mineral that are supported fect summer red. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ by a tannic backbone. Panebianco. —K.O. Destro 2009 Aithos (Etna). Made on the Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 89 slopes of Mount Etna, this structured wine abv: 13% Price: $23 opens with aromas of mature black raspberry, fig Destro 2009 Sciarakè (Etna). Made entirely and chocolate. The warm palate delivers stewed Terre di Giurfo 2012 Belsito (Vittoria Frap- 91 with native grape Nerello Mascalese, this ele- prune, strawberry jam and black cherry, with hints 89 pato). Here’s a bright and delicious wine gant but structured wine offers crushed strawberry, made with the native grape Frappato. It opens with
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intense fruity aromas of crushed strawberry, Mo- delivers ripe black cherry and raspberry, accented Spadafora 2010 Schietto Nero d’Avola (Si- rello cherry and orange peel that continue on to the by white pepper and mineral notes. Fresh acid- 89 cilia). This hearty Nero d’Avola opens with palate along with nutmeg, white pepper and vibrant ity brightens up the dense fruit. Empson USA Ltd. aromas of black fruit, turned soil and spice. The acidity. Chill for 15 minutes for a perfect summer —K.O. soft, juicy, palate offers a dense blackberry flavor red. Wirtz Beverage. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 that’s accented by chocolate, carob and clove. While abv: NA Price: $16 it’s not complex, it has delicious fruit and a smooth texture. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. Casa di Grazia 2012 Victorya (Cerasuolo di SICILIA abv: 14% Price: $35 87 Vittoria). Made with Frappato and Nero d’Avola, this bright ruby-hued wine opens with Ceuso 2009 Red (Sicilia). This structured Tasca d’Almerita 2012 Lamùri Nero d’Avola red berry and earthy aromas of tilled soil and for- 90 blend of 50% Nero d’Avola, 30% Cabernet 89 (Sicilia). Mature black berries and dark est floor. The straightforward palate offers a fleet- Sauvignon and 20% Merlot opens with earthy aro- baking spices take center stage on this refined Nero ing Morello cherry flavor that’s lightly dusted with mas of underbrush, tobacco leaf, mature black fruit d’Avola. The palate delivers juicy blackberry and white pepper. RDL Wine Rilymily. —K.O. and exotic spice. The palate boasts polished tannins black pepper notes alongside subtle oak and firm abv: 13.5% Price: $25 as well as flavors of ripe blackberry, red currant, tannins. Winebow. —K.O. grilled pepper and a hint of cocoa. Vias Imports. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Feudo di Santa Tresa 2012 Cerasuolo di Vitto- —K.O. 87 ria Classico. For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Terre di Giurfo 2012 Kudyah Nero d’Avola (Si- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 89 cilia). Here’s a fresh, delicious Nero d’Avola, Duca di Salaparuta 2008 Duca Enrico (Si- loaded with juicy blackberry and black cherry sen- Terre di Giurfo 2011 Maskaria (Cerasuolo di 90 cilia). This structured wine opens with an sations that are accented by hints of black pepper 87 Vittoria). Made from a blend of native grapes unusual blend of aromas that includes ripe black and nutmeg. It’s a delightfully easy-drinking, fruit- Nero d’Avola and Frappato, this opens with aromas fruit, dill and chocolate. The palate offers velvety forward style meant to be enjoyed young. Wirtz of toasted oak, coffee and black fruit. The robust tannins and notes of tart blackberry, black cherry, Beverage. —K.O. palate delivers blackberry, vanilla, espresso, oak fig and mature plum sprinkled with notes of cocoa. abv: NA Price: $15 and cinnamon. Wirtz Beverage. —K.O. Corvo USA. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $70 Valle dell’Acate 2011 Il Moro Nero d’Avola (Si- 89 cilia). This delicious and velvety expression FiàNobile 2012 Cerasuolo di Vittoria. This Valle dell’Acate 2010 Tané (Sicilia). Big and of Nero d’Avola opens with aromas of earth, ripe 86 informal wine opens with dainty aromas of 90 ripe, this Nero d’Avola weaves together black berry, leather and clove. The juicy palate of- black and red berries together with a whiff of baking blue flower, leather, fleshy blackberry, black cherry, fers blackberry pulp and ripe blueberry, accented by spice. The simple palate offers fleeting black cherry clove, sage, vanilla and subtle oak sensations. The a note of unsweetened black licorice. Multiple U.S. and raspberry notes alongside the barest hint of juicy fruit is framed by round, velvety tannins. importers. —K.O. clove. It’s made to be drunk young, so enjoy soon. You’ll also notice a warmth on the finish before it abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Panebianco. —K.O. closes on a licorice note. Multiple U.S. importers. abv: 13% Price: $26 —K.O. Alessandro di Camporeale 2012 Donnatà abv: 15% Price: $52 88 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Made with organi- cally farmed grapes, this robust Nero d’Avola opens SALINA Donnafugata 2009 Tancredi (Sicilia). This with aromas of black and red berries, spice and just- 89 red blend opens with aromas of mature tilled soil. The juicy palate delivers flavors of ripe Hauner 2012 Hieirà (Salina). Made from a black plums, vanilla, oak, underbrush and toast. black cherry, blackberry and raspberry that are ac- 90 blend of 60% Alicante, 30% Nocera and The palate offers dried black cherry, prune, black cented by notes of black pepper and cinnamon that 10% Calabrese, this wine has aromas of violet, tilled pepper and espresso, alongside drying wood tan- add interest. Panebianco. —K.O. earth, mature plum, prune and black cooking spice. nins. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16 The soft, savory palate delivers ripe black cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $45 and black berry, accented by black pepper and nut- Casa di Grazia 2009 Gradiva Collectio (Si- meg. It’s balanced, with velvety tannins and fresh Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Triskele (Sicilia). 88 cilia). Here’s a round, savory Nero d’Avola acidity. Made for early drinking pleasure, so enjoy 89 Made from a blend of 80% Nero d’Avola that’s loaded with juicy blackberry, tart red cherry soon. Empson USA Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. and 20% Merlot, this hearty wine opens with aro- and black raspberry sensations. The juicy, easygo- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 mas of underbrush, tobacco leaf, mature plum, bell ing palate is accented by hints of black pepper, clove pepper and black berry. The round palate offers and roasted almond that give it a pleasantly bitter Hauner 2010 Rosso Antonello (Salina). A notes of juicy blackberry, cocoa, vanilla and expres- finish. There’s low complexity, but it is delicious. 90 blend of 60% Nero d’Avola, 30% Sangio- so. Corvo USA. —K.O. RDL Wine Rilymily. —K.O. vese and 10% Corinto, this structured wine opens abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $18 with fragrances of mature plum, resin and balsamic. The dense palate offers chewy tannins and deliv- Morgante 2011 Don Antonio Nero d’Avola (Si- Curto 2010 Ikano (Sicilia). A blend of Nero ers succulent flavors of black cherry and ripe black 89 cilia). Aged for a year in new oak, this hefty 88 d’Avola and Merlot, this straightforward, berry that are layered with black pepper, clove and wine opens with aromas of vanilla, chocolate, plum friendly wine opens with a fragrance of blue flower, mocha. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. and toast. The dense, juicy palate delivers concen- tilled earth and black fruit. The juicy palate is pre- abv: 14% Price: $36 trated blackberry, blueberry extract and vanilla, but sented in an easy, enjoyable style, delivering ripe you’ll also notice an alcoholic warmth. Winebow. blackberry accented by clove and nutmeg. Premium Hauner 2012 Rosso (Salina). Leather, game, —K.O. Brands. —K.O. 89 wet soil and ripe berry aromas take center abv: 15% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $22 stage on this savory blend of Nerello Mascalsese and Nero d’Avola. The lively, easy-drinking palate
22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Curto 2010 Krio Syrah (Sicilia). This warm raspberry, black pepper, licorice and espresso along- soil, underbrush, wet leaves, barnyard and mature 88 and friendly Sicilian Syrah opens with side bracing tannins. You’ll also notice the warmth black fruit. The muddled palate shows both sweet aromas of tilled soil, leather, game, black fruit and of alcohol on the finish. Wirtz Beverage. —K.O. and bitter sensations of overripe blackberry, tart spice. The dense, soft palate offers ripe blackberry, abv: 15% Price: $19 candied cherry, orange peel, vanilla, espresso and prune, black currant and cracked black pepper unsweetened cocoa, as well as astringent wood tan- alongside velvety tannins. Rich fruit makes up for Ceuso 2012 Scurati Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). nins. Panebianco, Vinity. —K.O. the lack of complexity. Premium Brands. —K.O. 87 Here’s a dense but easygoing Nero d’Avola abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $29 with sensations of blue flower, sweet black cherry, blueberry extract, clove and cinnamon. The soft, Feudo di Santa Tresa 2011 Avulisi Nero Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Nawari Pinot Nero round palate offers juicy fruit, with a succulent 85 d’Avola (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola opens 88 (Sicilia). Oak, crushed berry and vanilla blackberry finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. with aromas of toast, roasted coffee beans and wild aromas take center stage on this Sicilian Pinot Nero. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 berries. The palate is dominated by oak, offering The palate offers ripe red cherry, prune, toasted oak, espresso, tar, toast and black currant alongside as- sweet baking spice and chocolate alongside drying Donnafugata 2012 Sedàra (Sicilia). This tringent wood tannins. It lacks fruit richness and tannins. Corvo USA. —K.O. 87 straightforward blend of Nero d’Avola, Syr- has an abrupt finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40 ah and Merlot opens with aromas of mature black abv: 13.5% Price: $29 fruit, graphite and dark baking spice. The palate Feudo Principi di Butera 2012 Nero d’Avola offers prune, black currant and intense black pep- Armosa 2008 Curma Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). 88 (Sicilia). Aged in both mid-sized barrels per supported by tight tannins. Pair this with pizza 84 Funky aromas of farmyard, tire rubber and large casks, this robust Nero d’Avola delivers or hearty pasta dishes. Folio Fine Wine Partners. and fetid flowers waft from the glass of this Nero concentrated sensations of juicy blackberry and —K.O. d’Avola. The muddled palate offers stewed prune, black cherry marinated in spirits. The fruity palate abv: 13% Price: $17 overripe black plum and oaky vanilla alongside bit- is lightly accented by notes of vanilla, chocolate and ter, green sensations of old sage. Panebianco, Vinity. espresso. Zonin USA. —K.O. FiàNobile 2009 Nero Capitano Nero d’Avola —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17 87 (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola has aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $35 earth, black currants, game and a note of grilled Morgante 2012 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Here’s bell peppers. The palate offers fleeting black cherry 88 a straightforward and fruity Nero d’Avola and black berry, accented by black pepper and a TERRE SICILIANE that offers delicious blackberry and black cherry green note of dried sage. It finishes on a bitter note. flavors that are accented by a hint of Mediterranean Panebianco. —K.O. Feudo Arancio 2011 Hedonis (Terre Siciliane). herbs. The ripe palate is brightened by just enough abv: 13.5% Price: $30 90 This savory blend of 70% Nero d’Avola and fresh acidity. Winebow. —K.O. 30% Syrah opens with aromas ripe blackberry, sour abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Tenuta Rapitalà 2013 Campo Reale Nero cherry and wild strawberry that all carry over to the 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). For full review see page 11. palate alongside hints of black pepper and cocoa. Tasca d’Almerita 2012 Regaleali Nero d’Avola abv: 13.5% Price: $14 The juicy fruit is balanced by smooth, supple tan- 88 (Sicilia). Made with Nero d’Avola, this nins. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. bright, pretty wine offers juicy red cherry, straw- Valle dell’Acate 2013 Tenuta Ibidini Nero abv: 13.5% Price: $30 berry and blackberry sensations along with notes of 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). Here’s a delightful red that black pepper and mineral. Fresh and savory, this is offers fruity aromas of strawberry, wild red cher- Corvo 2013 Irmana (Terre Siciliane). A blend made to be enjoyed young. Winebow. —K.O. ry and raspberry that carry through to the palate 88 of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, this opens abv: 13.5% Price: $15 alongside notes of white pepper and mineral. It’s with aromas of blue and red flower along with a easy drinking, with bright acidity and a smooth tex- whiff of red berries. The juicy palate delivers flavors Tenuta di Castellaro 2011 Nero Ossidiana ture. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. of red cherry, strawberry and ripe raspberry that are 88 (Sicilia). Made by blending 60% Corinto, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 lightly accented by white pepper. There’s not much 20% Nero d’Avola and 20% other varieties, this complexity, but it is delicious. Corvo USA. —K.O. opens with aromas of underbrush, game, leather, Casa di Grazia 2011 Gradiva Nero d’Avola (Si- abv: 12% Price: $15 spice and mature black fruit. The warm palate de- 86 cilia). This ruby hued Nero d’Avola opens livers smooth tannins and flavors of blackberry, with earthy aromas of mature red and black berries, Duca di Salaparuta 2012 Passo delle Mule prune and black pepper. This isn’t an ager, so drink underbrush and a whiff of white pepper. The lean 88 Nero d’Avola (Terre Siciliane). Mature plum, soon. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O. palate isn’t very expressive, showing raw red cherry blackberry and raspberry sensations take center abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and a hint of roasted coffee bean. It finishes on a stage on this young Nero d’Avola. The ripe fruit is green, bitter note. RDL Wine Rilymily. —K.O. accented by notes of subtle oak, espresso, black Tenuta Rapitalà 2012 Alto Nero d’Avola (Si- abv: 13% Price: $15 pepper and mint, alongside drying tannins. Corvo 88 cilia). This brawny Nero d’Avola, aged in USA. —K.O. both barriques and casks, opens with aromas of Sallier de la Tour 2012 Nero d’Avola (Sicil- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ripe blackberry, plum, coffee and vanilla. The dense, 86 ia). Here’s a simple, straightforward Nero one-dimensional palate offers mature blackberry d’Avola that offers concentrated blueberry and Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Làvico (Terre Sicil- layered with milk chocolate. Frederick Wildman & blackberry jam sensations along with a note of evi- 88 iane). Made from the native grape Nerello Sons, Ltd. —K.O. dent alcohol. Pair this with everyday fare like pasta Mascalese, this elegant wine opens with aromas of abv: 14% Price: $23 topped with a hearty ragù sauce. Domaines and Ap- red berry, vanilla and a whiff of leather. The palate pelations. Best Buy. —K.O. offers polished tannins and a creamy red-cherry fla- Terre di Giurfo 2012 Kuntari Nero d’Avola (Si- abv: 14% Price: $11 vor that’s lightly accented by subtle oak and baking 88 cilia). This structured Nero d’Avola opens spice. Corvo USA. —K.O. with aromas of ripe black fruit, vanilla and hints Armosa 2008 Siclys Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). abv: 13.5% Price: $25 of toasted oak. The juicy palate delivers blackberry, 85 This opens with earthy aromas of tilled
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Feudo di Santa Tresa 2013 Frappato (Si- for everyday dinners and informal occasions. Corvo Feudi del Pisciotto 2012 Baglio del Sole Nero 88 cilia). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. USA. —K.O. 82 d’Avola (Terre Siciliane). This rustic wine abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $13 opens with aromas of underbrush, petrol and tire rubber, all of which carry over to the palate along Stemmari 2011 Cantodoro (Terre Siciliane). Di Giovanna 2012 Helios (Terre Siciliane). with notes of sweet and sour sauce. It has a bitter 88 For full review see page 10. 86 This blend of 70% Nero d’Avola and 30% finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Syrah opens with aromas of blackberry and blue abv: 13.5% Price: $13 flower. The lean palate is drying out, but still offers Di Giovanna 2012 Nerello Mascalese (Terre a black cherry note and astringent wood tannins 87 Siciliane). Made from organic Nerello Mas- that give it an abrupt, drying finish. Regal Wine Im- OTHER RED WINES calese grapes, this robust wine has sensations of ports Inc. —K.O. mature black cherry that are accented by hints of abv: NA Price: $26 Curto 2009 Fontanelle Nero d’Avola (Eloro). balsamic herbs. It’s not complex, but the ripe fruit 92 Here’s a delicious, focused Nero d’Avola that offers easy-drinking pleasure. Regal Wine Imports Di Giovanna 2012 Poggionotte Nero d’Avola seamlessly weaves together blue flower, tilled soil, Inc. —K.O. 86 (Terre Siciliane). Made from organically exotic incense, blackberry, blueberry, black pepper, abv: 14% Price: $17 grown grapes, this opens with earthy aromas of carob and subtle oak sensations. The chiseled palate tilled earth and ripe black fruit. The simple, one- is balanced, with silky tannins. Enjoy now through Duca di Salaparuta 2012 Calanica Frappato dimensional palate delivers mature blackberry and 2019. Premium Brands. —K.O. 87 & Syrah (Terre Siciliane). This fruity blend plum alongside a fleeting note of black pepper. En- abv: 14% Price: $29 of Frappato and Syrah opens with pretty aromas of joy soon. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. blue flower and rose. The round, fresh palate offers abv: 14% Price: $16 Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Rosso del Conte (Con- juicy black cherry and strawberry accented by black 92 tea di Sclafani). Made from a blend of Nero pepper. Corvo USA. —K.O. Duca di Salaparuta 2012 Calanican Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, abv: 12% Price: $16 86 d’Avola & Merlot (Terre Siciliane). This the 35th anniversary edition of this iconic wine blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Merlot has a opens with aromas of earth, leather, black currant FiàNobile 2013 Frappato (Terre Siciliane). pretty fragrance of blue flower, black berry and bak- and bell pepper. Black cherry, chocolate, cocoa and 87 Here’s a bright and spicy light-bodied red ing spice. The simple palate is less expressive, offer- black pepper all weave together seamlessly on the made with the native Sicilian grape Frappato. This ing fleeting wild cherry flavors. Corvo USA. —K.O. elegant palate, alongside silky tannins. Winebow. is loaded with strawberry, red cherry and raspberry abv: 12.5% Price: $16 —K.O. sensations, and is lightly accented by white pepper. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Chill it down for a refreshing summer red. Panebi- Feudo di Santa Tresa 2013 Purato Made With anco. —K.O. 86 Organic Grapes Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). For Donnafugata 2008 Mille e Una Notte (Cont- abv: 13% Price: $28 full review see page 13. Best Buy. 91 essa Entellina). This concentrated blend of abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Nero d’Avola and other grapes opens with aromas FiàNobile 2012 Nero d’Avola (Terre Siciliane). of earth, game, underbrush and mature black fruit. 87 This Nero d’Avola opens with delicate aro- Stemmari 2012 Nero d’Avola (Terre Sicil- The dense palate offers velvety tannins and doles mas of blue flower, black and red berries. The easy- 86 iane). Here’s a bright and easy-drinking out juicy black cherry flavor layered with fig, choco- going palate offers blackberry and black cherry fla- expression of Nero d’Avola that offers sour cherry, late, white pepper, carob and mint. Folio Fine Wine vors alongside bright acidity. Pair it with barbecue, ripe blackberry and pleasantly tart cranberry. Pair Partners. —K.O. or pizza. Panebianco. —K.O. this with hearty first courses like four cheese gnoc- abv: 13.5% Price: $85 abv: 13% Price: $26 chi. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Curto 2010 Nero d’Avola (Eloro). Blackberry, Spadafora 2012 Alhambra Nero d’Avola 88 tart cherry, cranberry and carob take center 87 (Terre Siciliane). Here’s a bright and fresh TerrAmore 2013 Nero d’Avola (Terre Sicil- stage on this fresh Nero d’Avola. Notes of black pep- expression of Nero d’Avola that offers succulent 86 iane). This unpretentious wine has a light per and clove add depth to this easy-drinking style, black raspberry, sour cherry and ripe blackberry fragrance of blue flower and black berry, while the while soft, supple tannins give it a round texture. sensations, all accented by hints of cinnamon and simple palate offers fleeting black cherry flavors. Premium Brands. —K.O. spice. This easygoing style is made for sheer drink- Saranty Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ing pleasure, so enjoy now. Montcalm Wine Import- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ers. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $16 Feudi del Pisciotto 2011 Versace Nero d’Avola WHITE BURGUNDY 85 (Terre Siciliane). This wine opens with funky Stemmari 2012 Pinot Nero (Terre Siciliane). aromas of earth, wet leaf, black raspberry, vanilla GRANDS CRUS 87 This informal but pretty Pinot Nero opens and hints of farmyard and tire rubber. The tight pal- with fragrances of red berry and spice. The bright ate offers tart cherry, cocoa, vanilla, espresso and Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Chevalier-Montra- palate offers fresh acidity and flavors of crushed oak alongside drying tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. 96 chet. Initially, this is a richly ripe wine with cherry, strawberry and cinnamon spice. Prestige abv: 14% Price: $31 tropical fruit flavors. It also has an immense sense Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —K.O. of structure that supports the fruit impressively. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Privitera 2013 L’Asispadi Nero d’Avola (Terre It’s dense, concentrated, exuding power and solid- 85 Siciliane). Here’s a simple and fruity Nero ity, while always keeping a sense of elegance. Drink Corvo 2012 Rosso (Terre Siciliane). A juicy d’Avola that offers fleeting blackberry and tart red- from 2018. Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 86 blend of Nero d’Avola and Nerello Masca- cherry flavors alongside fresh acidity. Pair this with abv: 13.5% Price: $315 lese, this wine offers blackberry and black cherry pizza or with other everyday, informal meals. Con- flavors in a friendly, easy-drinking style. It’s perfect quista Imports. —K.O. Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Corton-Char- abv: NA Price: $13 95 lemagne. From the cool east face of the
24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 vineyard, this is crisp and tight, less opulent than Give it until 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. some Corton-Charlemagne. It makes up in its rich —R.V. MARSANNAY structure, weight and tropical fruit flavors that are abv: 13.5% Price: $391 sliced by acidity. There is some kerosene along with Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Le Clos (Marsan- these exotic fruits, and the wine does need to age. Domaine Faiveley 2011 Corton-Charlemagne. 89 nay). While Marsannay is mainly planted Drink from 2018. Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. 93 Ripe and full-bodied, this immense wine with Pinot Noir, there are small vineyards of Char- —R.V. has rich layers of tropical fruits. The wine, like so donnay, like this six-acre parcel. It has produced a abv: 13.5% Price: $140 often in Corton-Charlemagne, is a powerful, huge fruity, ripe wine with a touch of minerality, along expression of Chardonnay. It does have balance with wood and crisp acidity. Light, fruity and ready Domaine Chanson 2011 Héritiers Paul Chan- from acidity. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman to drink soon. Massanois Imports. —R.V. 95 son (Corton Vergennes). From vines owned & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA by the Chanson family, this is a wonderfully rich abv: 13.5% Price: $282 wine, deliciously fruity at the same time. Apple Louis Latour 2011 Marsannay. Good fruit, and citrus as well as richer apricots come through Louis Latour 2011 Les Demoiselles (Cheva- 87 acidity and great freshness all come together powerfully. It’s structured with a sense of opulence, 93 lier-Montrachet). In this generous and opu- in this delicious, accessible wine. Fruity and fra- richness that also has a tight texture. It needs to lent wine, weight and richness accompany acidity grant, it has a light touch of acidity at the end. Drink age; drink from 2019. Terlato Wines International. and power. Ripe yellow and white fruits are given a now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. touch of spice and new wood. It’s gorgeous, but will abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $NA be better after aging. Drink from 2018. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Louis Latour 2011 Montrachet. For full re- abv: 14% Price: $380 PERNAND-VERGELESSES 95 view see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $520 Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Les Clos Grand Cru Domaine Chanson 2011 Les Caradeux Premier 93 (Chablis). For full review see page 5. Cellar 91 Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). The chalky soil Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Corton-Char- Selection. conveys a cool feeling to this wine. Tight and miner- 94 lemagne. Rich and rounded, the wine has abv: 13% Price: $80 al, it has yellow fruits that show good acidity. Toasty classic power. Wood flavors show strongly at this wood gives a juicy aftertaste. It’s already delicious, stage in its development, but it is full, ripe, full of but the wine’s cool character will develop further, yellow fruits, pineapple and apple skins. The wine CHABLIS so drink from 2016. Terlato Wines International. has great weight, but offers a fresh, straight and —R.V. crisp aftertaste. Drink from 2018. Terlato Wines In- Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Mont de Milieu Pre- abv: 13% Price: $55 ternational. —R.V. 92 mier Cru (Chablis). A rounded wine with an abv: 13% Price: $NA attractive touch of toast and delicious acidity. Ripe Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Creux de la and creamy, it’s full of peach fruits as well as having 91 Net Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). Crisp Domaine Faiveley 2011 Bâtard-Montrachet. a citrus streak. A more nervy edge twill soften as it acidity and citrus fruitiness combine with a riper, 94 Rich and full-bodied, the flavors of quince ages. Drink from 2016. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. textured character. The wine shows the strong min- and pear are balanced by great acidity. It is a big, abv: 13% Price: $40 erality inherent in whites from Pernand-Vergeless- powerful wine that, with its tight fruit and steely es, as well as a richer streak. Because of its struc- background, promises long aging. The tropical fruits Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Fourchaume Premier ture, it should age. Drink from 2016. Misa Imports. also need several years to show strongly. Drink from 91 Cru (Chablis). Closed in character, it has —R.V. 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selec- power and density as well as the potential of great abv: 13% Price: $NA tion. —R.V. fruitiness. A creamy texture with a rich feel offers abv: 13.5% Price: $428 suggestions of yellow fruits as well as apple. Drink Louis Latour 2011 Caradeux Premier Cru (Per- from 2016. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 91 nand-Vergelesses). While this wine demon- Louis Latour 2011 Corton-Charlemagne. For abv: 12.5% Price: $40 strates the telltale cool element of the appellation, 94 full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. it also offers ripe fruit, pear and peach flavors lightly abv: 14% Price: $140 Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Montée de Tonnerre layered with wood. The wine is crisp at the end, 90 Premier Cru (Chablis). Elegant and full of with a mineral aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Louis Louis Latour 2011 Criots-Bâtard-Montrach- fruit, it has just the right steely edge. It offers rich- Latour Inc. —R.V. 94 et. This very mineral wine comes from the ness as well, with lemon and pear fruits showing abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Grand Cru that is situated in the village of Chas- strongly. Acidity gives a bright aftertaste to this sagne-Montrachet. That gives it weight and power wine that will age well. Drink from 2016. Louis La- Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Réserve as well as a textured character. It’s tight, packed tour Inc. —R.V. 89 Personelle (Pernand-Vergelesses). A struc- with citrus as much as yellow fruits, and needing abv: 12.5% Price: $45 tured, cool wine that is poised and elegant, it has a many years to age. Drink from 2018. Louis Latour lightly creamy texture cut by apple and pear flavors. Inc. —R.V. Joseph Faiveley 2011 Fourchaume Premier Definitely mineral, it is textured with fruit skins abv: 14% Price: $300 89 Cru (Chablis). A soft wine with attractive and flavored with the oak aging. It needs to be aged, fruitiness and lemon and lime flavors. Fresh and so don’t drink before 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2011 Bienvenues Bâtard- rounded, it shows its northern French origins with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 93 Montrachet. Considerable wood flavors the tight acidity at the end. Frederick Wildman & mask the ripe fruits at this stage. A rich, perfumed Sons, Ltd. —R.V. wine, it will bring huge, ripe flavors of pineapple abv: 12.5% Price: $51 SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE and peach, as well as a powerful toasty character. Domaine Dublère 2011 Aux Vergelesses Pre- 92 mier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Not to be
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confused with wines from the vineyard of the same later into mature spice and toast. Drink from 2016. spice and almonds. It is rounded, the soft texture name in neighboring Pernand-Verglesses, this bal- Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. balanced by acidity. Drink from 2016. Louis Latour anced wine shows ripe tropical fruits as well as abv: 13.5% Price: $95 Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. toasted wood flavors. It is structured and still de- abv: 13.5% Price: $85 veloping its rich potential. Drink from 2017. Le Ser- Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Genevrières Pre- bet. —R.V. 93 mier Cru (Meursault). While showing some Alex Gambal 2011 Puligny-Montrachet. A abv: 13% Price: $44 smoky wood, this wine is more about pure fruiti- 92 textured wine, it’s still very crisp, tight and ness with yellow fruit flavors given a crisper shot closed up, only just hinting at a more fruity side. Alex Gambal 2011 Pinot Blanc (Savigny-lès- with acidity. Full-bodied and rich, the wine keeps Waiting a few years will reveal the delicious citrus, 89 Beaune). This is unusual, a Pinot Blanc a refreshing brightness. The aftertaste is crisp and peach and vanilla flavors that will show how gener- with a Burgundy appellation. But with its creamy fruity. Henriot Inc. —R.V. ous and rich this wine really is. Don’t touch before texture and soft fruitiness, it fits well into the Bur- abv: 13.5% Price: $95 2017. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. gundy flavor spectrum. There is some crispness, abv: 13.5% Price: $62 bright acidity and a fresh final taste. Drink now. Louis Latour 2011 Château de Blagny Premier Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. 93 Cru (Meursault-Blagny). From the village Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Les Champ- abv: 13% Price: $38 of Blagny, considered part of Meursault, this full, 91 gains Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Still rounded wine has a generous character, full of ripe closed up, this is potentially a ripe and delicious Domaine Chanson 2011 Hauts Marconnets fruit. It is given a crisper side by good acidity, and wine. As it develops, apple, citrus and apricot fruits 88 Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). While shows both freshness and weight at the end. Louis will come out, backed up by the steely, mineral tex- there is a strongly wooded aroma, the yellow fruits Latour Inc. —R.V. ture. The wine is already juicy, concentrated and shine through on the palate. Attractively rounded abv: 13.5% Price: $70 shows a toasty side as well as rich fruitiness. Drink and soft, the wine has bright acidity, a good citrus from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. touch and a feeling of lightness. Drink from 2016. Alex Gambal 2011 Clos de Cromin (Meur- abv: 13% Price: $NA Terlato Wines International. —R.V. 92 sault). From 70-year-old vines, with a low abv: 13% Price: $45 yield of tiny berries, this is a very textured, con- Joseph Faiveley 2011 Champ Gain Premier Cru centrated wine with a tight and mineral character. 91 (Puligny-Montrachet). Although this wine Melon and pear are shot through with intense citrus has a strong toasty character, it offers enough fruit, BEAUNE and wood flavors. It’s a wine with structure, need- acidity and ripe tropical flavors to make it work. At- ing to age. Drink from 2017. Ruby Wines Inc. Cellar tractive acidity gives a delicious, fresh aftertaste. Domaine Chanson 2011 Clos des Mouches Selection. —R.V. Drink from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). Ripe and rich, this abv: 13.5% Price: $56 —R.V. full-bodied wine retains minerality as well as at- abv: 13% Price: $104 tractive acidity. Crisp lemon flavor is rounded out Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Perrières Premier with peach and apple skin fruits. The wood, already 92 Cru (Meursault). This ripe-feeling wine is Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Puligny-Montra- integrated, gives richness and smoothness. Drink packed with yellow fruits that give a rounded tex- 89 chet. The wine is touched by wood, giving from 2016. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. ture. The rich fruits are also cut with acidity that a toasty character over crisp acidity. It is rich and abv: 13% Price: $110 has a steely, crisp edge, and a chalky texture. It’s a creamy although with a tighter, steely texture that wine to age, so drink from 2017. Terlato Wines In- promises a few years aging. Drink from 2015. Hen- Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Clos Saint-Landry ternational. —R.V. riot Inc. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Beaune). This was the first vine- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $60 yard bought by the Bouchard family, purchased in 1791. More than 220 years later, this 2011 has a del- Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Les Clous (Meur- Louis Latour 2011 Puligny-Montrachet. This icate touch of wood nestled in the heart of creamy 90 sault). From a parcel of vines in the Meur- 89 attractive village wine has ripe fruits as well fruit flavors. Crisp lemon and tight acidity give a sault village appellation, this attractive, soft wine as a more steely texture. Wood flavors give smooth- bright, fresh aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Henriot has ripe grapefruit and pear flavors to go with the ness that rounds out the wine and enhances the yel- Inc. —R.V. crisp acidity and the lightest touch of wood. Drink low fruit flavors. Drink now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60 from 2015. Henriot Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $80 abv: 13% Price: $55 Louis Latour 2011 Clos Saint-Désiré 90 (Beaune). From a small parcel at the base Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Meursault. CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET of the hill of Beaune, this is a delicious wine with 89 With an opulent texture, this is ripe and a touch of vanilla. It is rounded, smooth and rich, packed with yellow fruits. There is just a hint of the Domaine Chanson 2011 Les Chenevottes Pre- bringing out both fruit and toasty wood flavors that wood aging along with great acidity and citrus fla- 93 mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Chanson are integrated well. Drink from 2016. Louis Latour vors. Although full-bodied, the wine finishes crisply owns four acres, a quarter of this premier cru. This Inc. —R.V. fresh. Valley View Wine Sales. —R.V. 2011 is smooth, rich and very elegant. Fruitiness abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $NA is striated by a mineral, tight texture that gives a touch of steeliness. Drink from 2017. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. MEURSAULT PULIGNY-MONTRACHET abv: 13% Price: $105
Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Perrières Premier Louis Latour 2011 Les Truffières Premier Cru Alex Gambal 2011 Clos Saint-Jean Premier Cru 94 Cru (Meursault). At this stage, this wine is 93 (Puligny-Montrachet). The name comes 91 (Chassagne-Montrachet). A ripe wine with closed, tight and mineral in character. As befits a from the fact that this vineyard was once a truffle vanilla and intense structure, it is very rich and al- great Perrières, it will be a serious, structured wine, bed, high up the slope of Puligny-Montrachet. The most heavy in character. Generous yellow fruits are textured and full of nervy, steely feeling, softening wine shows wood, attractive fruitiness and layers of ripe and full of juicy acidity. The wood aging just
26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 shows along with spice at the end. Drink from 2017. Louis Latour 2011 La Grande Roche Premier character, and is ready to drink now. Acid Inc Selec- Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. 88 Cru (Montagny). A well-structured wine, tions. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $74 it offers ripe, creamy fruits and attractive acidity. abv: NA Price: $36 With mouth-watering citrus flavors, yellow fruits Domaine Guy Amiot 2010 Les Macherelles and smooth aftertaste, it represents great value Domaine André Bonhomme 2012 Cuvée Spé- 91 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). This from a lesser-known appellation. Louis Latour Inc. 88 ciale (Viré-Clessé). Showing some wood- ripe wine offers a touch of butteriness to smooth —R.V. aging aromas, this is a rich, tropical fruit-flavored out the tight acidity. It’s full-bodied while retaining abv: 13% Price: $27 wine balanced by acidity that goes with its peach freshness and citrus acidity. The wine rounds at the and mango flavors. Ready to drink, it will be even end beautifully. Ready to drink. Kermit Lynch Wine Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Le Clos des better in 2015. Petit Pois. —R.V. Merchant. —R.V. 87 Topes Bizot (Côte de Beaune). A fresh wine, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA it offers delicate acidity as well as citrus, ripe peach flavors and a touch of minerality. Bright and fruity, Domaine André Bonhomme 2012 Les Pierres Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Les Mor- it is ready to drink now. Valley View Wine Sales. 86 Blanches (Viré-Clessé). Fresh and fruity, it 91 geots Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). —R.V. shows crispness as well as white fruits, orange zest This open, generous wine is already completely in abv: 13% Price: $NA and a lively lemon aftertaste. Drink now. Charles its stride. Ripe yellow fruits are given freshness by Neal Selections. —R.V. flavors of orange zest and citrus. The wood aging abv: 13.5% Price: $20 shows, but gently, rounding out the fruits and add- CÔTE CHALONNAISE ing a note of spice. It’s a full wine, ready to drink in Jean-Marie Challand 2012 Domaine des 2015. Misa Imports. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2011 Clos Rochette (Mer- 86 Chanzelles (Viré-Clessé). This gentle, ripe abv: 13% Price: $NA 89 curey). The chalky soil yields a crisp, tex- wine is immediately attractive. Ripe pear and peach tured wine with yellow fruits to round it out. There are cut with acidity. Drink now. Bommarito Wines. Louis Latour 2011 Morgeot Premier Cru (Chas- is a steely edge and just a touch of wood, while the —R.V. 91 sagne-Montrachet). Ripe and structured, it aftertaste is packed with acidity. Frederick Wild- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 has the weight and broad feel of a Chassagne-Mon- man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. trachet. Firmly textured and concentrated, it also abv: 13% Price: $32 Louis Latour 2012 Viré-Clessé. Rounded, soft shows soft fruitiness. The power will keep it aging 86 and gentle, it has attractive tropical fruit well, so drink from 2017. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2011 Les Villeranges flavors along with a touch of lime to give crispness. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 88 (Rully). Fresh and fruity, it offers a touch of Ready to drink. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. citrus as well as acidity with pear and red apple fla- abv: 13% Price: $21 Joseph Faiveley 2011 Morgeot Premier Cru vors. The lightest hint of wood rounds the wine out. 90 (Chassagne-Montrachet). At this stage, this Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2012 Viré-Clessé. The wine is closed and packed with acidity. But just wait abv: 13% Price: $28 84 green fruit flavors dominate this very fresh, for a few years and the ripe wood and yellow fruits crisp wine. It has acidity as much as fruitiness, will emerge. It’s a full-bodied, rich wine that needs Domaine Faiveley 2011 Montagny. Mineral in giving a steely, tight character. Drink now. Terlato to round out. Drink from 2016. Frederick Wildman 87 texture, this wine is steely and firm. LIvely Wines International. —R.V. & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. acidity comes from the citrus flavors and crisp ap- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $112 ples. The wine is totally fresh and crisp. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Jean-Marie Challand 2012 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13% Price: $26 84 (Viré-Clessé). Tropical in character, this OTHER CÔTE DE BEAUNE wine has soft acidity and an attractive texture. With Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Marissou ripe mango flavor, it’s full in the mouth and ready to Benjamin Leroux 2011 Auxey-Duresses. 86 Premier Cru (Rully). Rich and soft, it offers drink. The Wine House. —R.V. 91 Rounded, rich and warm, it has excellent a ripe cushion of Chardonnay and a warm, rounded abv: 13.5% Price: $30 acidity along with touches of wood and very pure personality. While it misses out on a more struc- citrus flavors. Peach fruits give a riper feel. Drink tured character, the yellow fruits and light spice Manuel Seguin 2012 Viré-Clessé. The wine now, but better to wait until 2015. Le Serbet. —R.V. from wood aging give immediate drinkability. Misa 83 is candied and sherbet-flavored. Acidity abv: 13% Price: $41 Imports. —R.V. gives some freshness, but it feels artificial and light. abv: 13% Price: $NA Winebow. —R.V. Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Sous le Châ- abv: NA Price: $22 88 teau (Saint-Romain). This smooth, creamy and soft wine is ready to drink. It has touches of VIRÉ-CLESSÉ wood, although the main thrust comes from the ripe POUILLY-FUISSÉ yellow fruits, juicy acidity and round rich character. Bret Brothers 2012 La Verchère (Viré-Cles- The end brings out a toasty character that adds to 89 sé). The wine is broad, ripe and full-bodied. Château de Fuissé 2012 Vieilles Vignes the pleasure. Misa Imports. —R.V. A great layer of wood gives richness along with yel- 92 (Pouilly-Fuissé). Round and full-bodied, abv: 13% Price: $NA low fruits, a touch of mango and a crisp end of acid- the wine is dominated by wood-aging flavors. That ity. Drink now. Le Serbet. —R.V. masks the fruit at this stage, leaving the impres- Louis Jadot 2011 Le Clou d’Orge (Ladoix). On abv: NA Price: $34 sion of a wine that is still to focus and bring out the 88 the palate, the wood is an important ele- impressive ripe fruits and mineral structure. Give ment in this otherwise fruity wine that also conveys Denis Jeandeau 2012 Viré-Clessé. Soft and it until 2017 to pull itself together. Frederick Wild- lemon and bright acidity. Crisp and clean, it’s ready 88 fruity, it offers delicious yellow fruits cut by man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. to drink now. Kobrand. —R.V. acidity. Lively and fruity, it shows a warm tropical abv: 13.5% Price: $74 abv: 13% Price: $NA
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Dominique Cornin 2012 Les Chevrières (Pouil- ity at the end means it can age. Drink from 2016. ing to be delicious as the wine develops. It is ripe, 92 ly-Fuissé). Ripe and bold, it balances acidity Winebow. —R.V. full-bodied and generous. Drink from 2015. Ko- and texture. Very mineral in character, it is textured abv: NA Price: $36 brand. —R.V. and tight at this young stage. Green fruits, citrus abv: 13% Price: $55 and red apples show the fruity side. Age until 2016. Trenel Fils 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. The great Martine’s Wines. —R.V. 91 fruit produces a delicious wine that is also Domaine Ferret 2012 Les Perrières (Pouilly- abv: 13% Price: $NA structured with a strong steely element. It is full of 89 Fuissé). With attractive wood aromas, this yellow fruits, layers of wood and juicy acidity. The is rich and bright, with touches of butteriness. It Gilles Morat 2012 Domaine Chataigneraie aftertaste is as bright as a button. APS Wine & Spir- has weight and plenty of ripe fruit. The acidity at 92 Laborier La Roche (Pouilly-Fuissé). Rich and its. —R.V. the end is fresh and crisp. Kobrand. —R.V. full in the mouth, it packs in wood and ripe yellow abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $40 fruits. It has weight and a great sense of balance and ripeness that contrast with acidity and a tangy, Château des Rontets 2012 Clos Varambon Ferraud et Fils 2012 L’Entreroches (Pouilly- zesty texture. Drink from 2016. VOS Selections. 90 (Pouilly-Fuissé). Strong wood aromas and 89 Fuissé). Lively, bright and very textured, it —R.V. flavors dominate the wine at this young stage. Good discloses fresh apple and pear flavors along with a abv: 13% Price: $NA fruit and a steely texture lie behind the toast. As more nuanced, honey character. The wine is devel- those yellow fruits develop, it will become a deli- oping well, giving great acidity while also promising Château de Fuissé 2012 Les Brûlés Chardon- cious, while always structured wine. Drink from fruitiness. Drink from 2015. The Wine Merchant. 91 nay (Pouilly-Fuissé). Very buttery, this con- 2016. Le Serbet. —R.V. —R.V. centrated wine shows wood-aging flavors as well as abv: NA Price: $36 abv: 13% Price: $NA full, tropical fruit. Rich and rounded, it conveys a fine dense texture. Drink from 2017. Frederick Wild- Château des Rontets 2011 Clos Varambon Manoir du Capucin 2012 Aux Morlays (Pouil- man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 90 (Pouilly-Fuissé). From a five-acre vineyard, 89 ly-Fuissé). Bright and crisp, it has a steely abv: 13.5% Price: $70 the wine has some clean steeliness layered with ripe edge that is crispened with acidity, a strong citrus citrus and white fruits. Acidity brings out apple and element and a very pure fruitiness. The wine should Château des Rontets 2012 Les Birbettes crisp pear skin flavors. Drink this immaculate wine age until 2016 to be at its best. H.Mercer Wine & 91 (Pouilly-Fuissé). There is already a fine bal- from 2015. Le Serbet. —R.V. Spirit Imports. —R.V. ance between the ripe yellow fruits and juicy acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 ity. Together with the toast from wood aging, they make a rich, well textured wine that has excellent Collovray et Terrier 2012 Vieilles Vignes Bret Brothers 2012 En Carementrant (Pouil- potential. Drink this finely structured wine from 90 (Pouilly-Fuissé). Fully fruity right up front, 88 ly-Fuissé). Honey aromas lead to a wine 2016. Le Serbet. —R.V. this rounded wine has a crisp element that cuts that is soft and gently tangy at this stage. It is still abv: NA Price: $49 through the richness. Peach and pear flavors con- developing its full potential to give ripe acidity and trast with orange zest and lively final acidity. AHD fruitiness. Wait until 2016. Le Serbet. —R.V. Château des Rontets 2011 Pierrefolle (Pouilly- Vintners. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $48 91 Fuissé). From granite soil, this rounded wine abv: 13.5% Price: $25 has a firm core of structure. Pineapple and peach Collovray et Terrier 2012 Domaine des Deux fruit flavors surround this center, making it full in Domaine La Soufrandise 2012 Vieilles Vi- 88 Roches (Pouilly-Fuissé). Freshly sliced yel- the mouth, rich and charming. Acidity at the end 90 gnes (Pouilly-Fuissé). Full of bright yellow low fruits are balanced by acidity. Bright as well as and the firm texture promise some aging. Drink fruits, this is ripe, rounded and already delicious. rich, it needs time to bring out the ripe fruits and from 2015. Le Serbet. —R.V. Rich mango and peach flavors contribute an exotic wood-aging flavors. Drink from 2015. Solstars Inc. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 edge to the more mineral texture. Drink now. DB —R.V. Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Denis Jeandeau 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly- abv: NA Price: $32 91 Fuissé). Steely and mineral, this wine is as Denis Jeandeau 2012 Sécret Mineral (Pouil- crisp and chalky-textured as possible. It is tight, Jean-Claude Debeaune 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. 88 ly-Fuissé). Full-bodied and structured, it with nervy acidity as well as touches of wood. A 90 Layers of wood and yellow fruits are al- has ripe tropical fruits, apricots and peaches as well more buttery, rounded character is just beginning ready well balanced in this ripe while crisp wine. A as a more tangy, mineral texture. The acidity is al- to show through to fill out the texture. Acid Inc Se- steely texture balances the fruit to give a wine that ready well integrated. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. lections. —R.V. is structured while offering the potential of a more abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $45 opulent future. Drink from 2015. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Gilles Morat 2012 Domaine Chataigneraie Joseph Burrier 2012 Château de Beauregard abv: NA Price: $NA 88 Laborier Terroir de Vergisson (Pouilly-Fuis- 91 Vignes Blanches (Pouilly-Fuissé). Ripe and sé). Crisp and tight, it shows the more mineral, buttery, this full wine is packed with yellow fruits. Bret Brothers 2012 La Roche (Pouilly-Fuis- steely character of Pouilly Fuissé. It is fresh with It shows all the freshness of the vintage along with a 89 sé). Bright and fruity, it’s full of fresh acid- green fruits and citrus, but the strong, firm texture richer feel. Toast from wood aging is a subtle player ity and has a strongly mineral texture. Green fruits, dominates. VOS Selections. —R.V. in this fruit bomb. Drink from 2015. —R.V. apples and pears partner with a strong citrus ele- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA ment. Wait until 2015. Le Serbet. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $48 Henri de Villamont 2012 Grumes d’Or (Pouil- Manuel Seguin 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly- 88 ly-Fuissé). Showing its wood-aging strong- 91 Fuissé). A steely wine, it’s tight with acid- Domaine Ferret 2012 Hors Classe Tournant ly, this is a smooth, toasty wine. Good acidity and ity and apple fruit flavors. It has a brighter, crisper 89 de Pouilly (Pouilly-Fuissé). Layers of wood yellow fruits are developing, while an underlying side, but the wine is still nervy and textured. Acid- are strongly evident in this very rich wine. The yel- low fruits, still behind the toasty structure, are go-
28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 mineral character gives firm texture. Drink from Pierre André 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. With yel- 2015. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V. 87 low fruit flavors and soft acidity, it’s rich and POUILLY-LOCHÉ abv: 13% Price: $NA fragrant. The wood aging shows at the end, along with some ripe pear flavors. Drink now. Misa Im- Clos des Rocs 2012 En Chatone (Pouilly-Lo- Joseph Burrier 2012 Château du Clos (Pouil- ports. —R.V. 88 ché). While the wood aromas are strong, so 88 ly-Fuissé). Warm and rounded, it has toasty abv: 13% Price: $25 is the rich fruitiness. Ripe yellow fruit flavors give wood flavors, spice, layers of acidity, yellow fruits a generous, rounded feel. At the end, fresh acidity and a tighter texture. What it misses in freshness, Chanson Père et Fils 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. gives welcome contrast. Drink now, but better from the wine makes up for in richness. Drink from 2015. 86 Once the sulfur aromas from recent bot- 2015. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —R.V. —R.V. tling blow over, the wine shows ripe fruit with a soft abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA texture. Pear and yellow fruits are going to come through in a few months. Drink from 2015. Terlato Bret Brothers 2012 La Colonge (Pouilly- Joseph Burrier 2012 Château du Clos Léonard Wines International. —R.V. 87 Loché). The wine is soft, rounded and very 88 Chandon (Pouilly-Fuissé). Spice aromas abv: NA Price: $NA accessible. Ripe pear and apple flavors come along partner with yellow fruit flavors. It’s warm and rich, with a good shot of acidity. There is a light texture, well balanced between the wood aging and the ripe Jacques Charlet 2011 Les Vieux Murs (Pouil- with crispness at the end. Drink now. Le Serbet. fruits. At the end, acidity cuts the richness. —R.V. 86 ly-Fuissé). Broad and rich, it has already —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA developed to give ripe yellow and green fruits that abv: NA Price: $36 have fully integrated into the fresher, mineral struc- Louis Jadot 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. This struc- ture. The wine is ready to drink. David Bowler Wine. Bret Brothers 2012 Les Mûres (Pouilly-Lo- 88 tured wine is well balanced with fruit and —R.V. 86 ché). Showing its wood strongly, this toasty acidity. Ripe fruits, a touch of wood aging and final abv: 13% Price: $30 wine seems to have lost the fruit. Some attractive acidity have given an elegant wine that’s ready to acidity at the end helps compensate. Drink now. Le drink. Kobrand. —R.V. Vincent 2012 Marie Antoinette (Pouilly-Fuis- Serbet. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 86 sé). A strong wood element dominates this abv: NA Price: $41 wine. It’s all toasty and juicy from wood aging rather Château des Rontets 2012 Pierrefolle (Pouil- than fruit. It does have the weight to suggest some Clos des Rocs 2012 Clos des Rocs Monopole 87 ly-Fuissé). Very crisp and apple flavored, it fruit for the future, but the wood, with its bite and 86 (Pouilly-Loché). The wine is soft, fruity and has bright acidity and a light, gentle texture of min- tang, will always be a strong presence. Frederick ready to drink, with attractive fruitiness, soft acid- erality. It is ready to drink now, although waiting Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. ity and a touch of wood. With a crisp aftertaste, it until 2015 will bring out more depth of flavor. Le abv: 13% Price: $29 offers freshness as well. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. Serbet. —R.V. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $43 Dominique Cornin 2012 Clos Reyssie (Pouilly- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 85 Fuissé). This very fruity wine has light acid- Domaine Carrette 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. Ini- ity and a fresh, crisp character. It doesn’t have great 87 tially closed, this wine is currently only depth, but is attractive now. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. POUILLY-VINZELLES hinting at its weight and richness. It does feel full in abv: 13% Price: $NA the mouth, offering a fine texture and layers of toast. La Soufrandière 2012 Climat Les Quarts But it does need time, so wait until 2015. Golden Georges Duboeuf 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. S o ft 87 (Pouilly-Vinzelles). The wine has good acid- Horseshoe Inc. —R.V. 85 and fruity, it is already fully developed. ity, crisp green and white fruits, and a bright citrus abv: 13% Price: $NA Crisp apple flavors accompany bright acidity and element. Fresh and fruity, it’s ready to drink, with a touch of minerality. Drink now. Deutsch Family a light mineral texture already well integrated. Le Louis Latour 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. This tight Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Serbet. —R.V. 87 wine is full of acidity and green fruits. It is abv: NA Price: $27 abv: NA Price: $53 very textured, densely packed with minerality and structure. These elements suggest a wine that needs Bouchard Père & Fils 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. La Soufrandière 2012 Pouilly-Vinzelles. to age, so don’t drink before 2016. Louis Latour Inc. 84 The wine is dull, without great character 86 Fresh and fruity, this simple Chardonnay —R.V. other than some light fruitiness and a hint of wood shows crispness as well as white fruits, orange zest abv: 13.5% Price: $37 aging. Drink now. Henriot Inc. —R.V. and a lively lemon aftertaste. Drink now. Le Serbet. abv: NA Price: $32 —R.V. Maison Champy 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. Wood abv: NA Price: $35 87 shows strongly here, giving a smoky, toasty Joseph Drouhin 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé. This character. Some good fruit balances the wood, giv- 84 wine is missing great depth of flavor. It has Louis Latour 2012 En Paradis (Pouilly- ing rich weight. Although it could age, it is really bright acidity and hints of peach fruit flavors, but 83 Vinzelles). Very soft and dull, it offers white ready to drink. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. remains dull. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. fruits and some acidity. Drink now. Louis Latour abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $29 Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 Manoir du Capucin 2012 Clos de la Maison Joseph Burrier 2012 Château de Beauregard 87 (Pouilly-Fuissé). Mango and peach aromas 83 (Pouilly-Fuissé). This rather closed wine has offer immediate attraction. With ripe fruits, light layers of sulfur that have suppressed the fruit. It’s SAINT-VÉRAN minerality and crisp acidity, it’s almost ready to en- cool, neutral and dull. —R.V. joy. Drink from the end of 2014. H.Mercer Wine & abv: NA Price: $NA Collovray et Terrier 2012 Les Terres Noires Spirit Imports. —R.V. 91 (Saint-Véran). Ripe and full, it has opulent abv: 13% Price: $32 peaches and apricots plus a light buttery character. Tangy with orange zest, it’s full of flavor and has
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a generous feel at the end. Solstars Inc. Editors’ develop to give greater definition. Drink from 2015. Choice. —R.V. The Wine Merchant. —R.V. MÂCON LA ROCHE VINEUSE abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Perraud 2012 Mâcon La Roche Vin- Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2012 Au Brûlé Louis Latour 2012 Les Deux Moulins (Saint- 89 euse. Rich and rounded, it’s full of ripe yel- 91 (Saint-Véran). This well-proportioned wine 87 Véran). Toasty aromas go through to the pal- low fruits cut through with fresh acidity. Broad and has ripe fruits along with generous texture and ate, highlighting the wood aging. It is tense, mineral, well-balanced, it’s ready to drink, but will be better acidity. A touch of wood gives extra weight. It’s packed with apple and lemon acidity. The aftertaste at the end of 2014. Indie Wineries Division. —R.V. ready to drink, but will be even better by the end of is equally crisp and bright. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 2014. Vin de Garde Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Domaine Olivier Merlin 2011 Vieilles Vignes Collovray et Terrier 2012 Les Vignes de Joan- 88 (Mâcon La Roche Vineuse). La Roche Vineu- Joseph Burrier 2012 Château de Beauregard En 86 ny (Saint-Véran). A broad-based wine with se is a commune in the Mâcon region. This ripe and 91 Faux (Saint-Véran). It delivers both fruit and rich fruit, it also has a crisp edge. Ripe yellow fruits lemon-scented wine presents peach and citrus fla- attractive ginger and cinnamon flavors. Apple acid- are cut with citrus and acidity. With a tangy end, it vors. Fresh and fruity acidity turns rich and smooth ity comes along with tangerine juiciness, and toast could well age, so drink from 2015. Bonhomie Wine at the end. Drink now. Le Serbet. —R.V. gives the spice that’s a delicious underlay. Drink Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 from 2015. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Normand 2012 Mâcon La Roche Vin- Collovray et Terrier 2012 Vieilles Vignes 87 euse. Lemon and peach flavors combine in Collovray et Terrier 2012 Domaine des Dexu 86 (Saint-Véran). The wine is closed, but has this ripe and fruity wine. It has a touch of vanilla 90 Roches PRC (Saint-Véran). Wood aromas potential. At the moment, the wood and texture and soft fruitiness, as well as a tangy texture at the set the scene for a wine that shows wood-aging fla- dominate, but there are signs of ripe apple and pear end. The wine is bright, very ready to drink. Vintage vors. Spice, vanilla, baked apple and citrus flavors fruits that will come through in a few months. Wait ’59 Imports. —R.V. all mingle easily and to great effect. The wine, with until the end of 2014. AHD Vintners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA its textured character, could age another year or abv: 13.5% Price: $20 two. Drink from 2015. Solstars Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Dominique Cornin 2012 Saint-Véran. The MÂCON-CHARDONNAY 86 wine is quite tight in character, but shows Collovray et Terrier 2012 Tradition (Saint- some richer potential. It is generous, full-bodied Cave de Lugny 2012 Les Beluses (Mâcon- 90 Véran). Full of ripe, tropical fruit flavor, the and packed with apricot and apple skin flavors. Give 91 Chardonnay). Big and rich, this complex wine wine is already generous. Apricot and mango come it until 2015. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. punches above its appellation. It has rich fruits and through the fresh acidity, giving both richness and a abv: 13% Price: $NA a strong textured character, along with spice, vanilla more textured edge. It is ready to drink, but by 2015 and apple skin flavors. The structure is present and will be even better. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. Maison Champy 2012 Saint-Véran. Strong needs to develop. Drink from 2015. Viceroy Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 86 wood aromas follow through to the wood- Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 dominated palate. The juiciness comes from wood abv: 13% Price: $20 as much as from the ripe apricot fruits. It’s a wine Domaine Perraud 2012 Saint-Véran. Rich that needs to integrate better, hopefully from 2015. Domaine Gerald Talmard 2012 Mâcon-Char- 90 while also structured, it has a mineral tex- Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. 88 donnay. This wine has a broad, ripe feel ture that gives fine acidity and a tight feel, all bal- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA alongside a textured and toasty edge. Rich apple and anced by ripe apricot fruits. The wine should round white peach flavors combine with a more edgy cit- out by 2015 to give a ripe, full-bodied feel. Indie Georges Duboeuf 2012 Saint-Véran. Big and rus character to give a wine that needs a few more Wineries Division. —R.V. 85 fruity, this wine is broad but without great months. Drink from late 2014. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 definition. It offers weight, soft apple fruits and abv: 13% Price: $16 light acidity. Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Bret Brothers 2012 En Combe (Saint-Véran). Spirits. —R.V. Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon 2012 Clos de la 89 Big and fruity, this rich wine offers warm abv: NA Price: $19 87 Crochette (Mâcon-Chardonnay). Smooth and tropical fruits as well as crisper lemon acidity. It fruity, it’s full of citrus and ripe pear fruit. Struc- shows a touch of steeliness, but emphasizes fully Joseph Burrier 2012 Château de Beauregard tured and quite tangy, it has potential to improve ripe fruits that are immediately appealing. Drink 84 (Saint-Véran). A vegetal wine that has acid- through late 2014. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. now. Le Serbet. —R.V. ity and rhubarb flavors. It is tight and full of acidity, abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $36 with a very citrusy aftertaste. Drink now. P. Comms International. —R.V. Collovray et Terrier 2012 Grand Va (Mâcon- Domaine Sophie Cinier 2012 Saint-Véran. A abv: NA Price: $NA 85 Chardonnay). Very tangy in texture, it has 89 very buttery wine, it is soft, smooth and spice from wood aging and a crisply fresh character. creamy in texture. Contrasting citrus flavors add a Pierre André 2012 Saint-Véran. Tight, acidic It is bright and light, and very lemony at the end. crisp touch. The acidity winds through the ripe fruit 84 and very crisp, it’s propelled forward by AHD Vintners. —R.V. to give a bright edge. Jao Wine Imports. —R.V. lemon zest and grapefruit flavors. It is bright, fruity abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $250 and light in texture. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Demessey 2012 Château de Messey Les Crets Ferraud et Fils 2012 Saint-Véran. Full and 84 (Mâcon-Chardonnay). This is a generous, 88 softly fruity, it has a rich feel, heightened rounded and very perfumed wine. Candy and bub- by ripe apricot flavors. It’s generous, but needs to
30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 ble gum flavors give sweetness that contrasts with needs a few more months to show at its best. Drink is smooth, generous and ready to drink. H.Mercer the acidity. Seaview Imports. —R.V. from 2015. Le Serbet. —R.V. Wine & Spirit Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $31 abv: 13% Price: $18
Domaines Devillard 2012 Domaine de la Collovray et Terrier 2012 Les Vignes de Joan- MÂCON-VILLAGES 90 Garenne (Mâcon-Azé). Big and bold, it’s 86 ny (Mâcon-Davayé). A tight, mineral-driven full of ripe fruits, touches of wood and a mineral wine, it has both great fruit and acidity. It is tangy, Domaine Sophie Cinier 2012 Les Amandiers textured character. It’s still developing but promis- pushing forward crisp lemon and apple skin flavors 87 (Mâcon-Villages). Bright and fruity, it has ing an opulent character as it matures. Drink from and a touch of peach. Drink now. Bonhomie Wine good acidity and a crisp exterior. Inside, lemon and 2015. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. pear fruit flavors are touched with pineapple. It will abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $23 be ready soon, so drink 2014. Jao Wine Imports. —R.V. Dominique Cornin 2012 Les Serrendières Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon 2012 Mâcon- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 90 (Mâcon Chaintré). This broad and ripe 86 Milly Lamartine. Crisp, very light and fruity, wine features a buttery texture and generous yellow this is an attractive, ready-to-drink wine. A touch of Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2012 Mâcon-Villages. fruits. Lightly textured with acidity, it has peach acidity at the end gives freshness. Michael Skurnik 86 This ripe wine has tropical fruits, pineapple and pear flavors that give opulence and richness. A Wines. —R.V. and apricots as well as a fresher lime character. The touch of toast adds to the warmth. Martine’s Wines. abv: 13% Price: $30 wine is rounded with a crisper edge. Drink now. —R.V. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 Louis Latour 2012 Les Genevrières (Mâcon- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 85 Lugny). Rich and textured, the wine is spicy Bret Brothers 2012 Climat La Martine (Mâ- with a burnt, smoky character. The fruit is quiet, Ferraud et Fils 2012 Le Chai des Platanes 89 con-Uchizy). Wood flavors initially domi- just hinting at citrus. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 86 (Mâcon-Villages). Tight and crisp, it has nate this wine. Then the more fruity character abv: NA Price: $20 a mineral character. Nervy acidity combines with shows through to give a toast and citrus character, lemon and apple skin flavors, giving a fresh, tex- rounded while tightly textured. The wine has some Domaine Sophie Cinier 2012 Mâcon-Fuissé. tured wine. Drink from 2015. The Wine Merchant. aging potential, although it could be drunk now. Le 84 Burnt caramel aromas give a wine that has —R.V. Serbet. —R.V. weight, sweetness and packs in the vanilla. It miss- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $27 es out on real fruitiness, giving weight rather than freshness. Jao Wine Imports. —R.V. Cave de Lugny 2012 La Côte Blanche Mâcon- Maison Champy 2012 Uchizy (Mâcon). But- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 85 Villages. Light, fruity and lemony, this wine 89 tery and aromatic, this is a broad and ripe has some weight, but it is more about crisp citrus wine. It has attractive acidity as well, giving fresh- with a touch of pear. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. ness and a sense of structure. It’s rich, rounded and BOURGOGNE abv: NA Price: $14 ready to drink. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Alex Gambal 2011 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Jacques Charlet 2012 La Crochette (Mâcon- 87 From vines in Meursault, Volnay and the 85 Villages). This wine is dull, soft with some Domaine La Soufrandise 2012 Le Ronté (Mâ- Hautes Côtes de Beaune, this light, fruity wine is redeeming acidity. It has weight and hints of a 88 con-Fuissé). Crisp and mineral in character, gently touched by wood. It has great acidity, with fresher character that might emerge by 2015. David the wine is fresh and fruity. A light texture adds ex- crisp lemon and pear skin flavors. Bright and ready Bowler Wine. —R.V. tra interest and the citrus tang is attractive. Drink to drink. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 from the end of 2014. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $23 Jean-Marie Challand 2012 Les Tilles (Mâcon- Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet 2011 Bour- 84 Villages). This soft, open wine has a light Dominique Cornin 2012 Mâcon Chaintré. Still 87 gogne. Fruity and citrusy, with a steely, min- fruit character with attractive acidity and a crisp 88 quite tight, this wine needs a few months to eral edge, this wine is mainly sourced from Meur- aftertaste. Drink now. The Wine House. —R.V. develop. It has apple and quince fruits, a citrus tang, sault. It’s crisp, lemony and very bright on the end. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and bright, fruity acidity. The aftertaste is fresh. Polaner Selections. —R.V. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $28 OTHER MÂCONNAIS WINES Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Bourgogne Vézelay. Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2012 La Roche 86 Fresh and fruity, this crisp wine comes from Bouchard Père & Fils 2012 Mâcon-Lugny. 87 (Mâcon-Vergisson). Very buttery aromas a region near Chablis. Good acidity, lively citrus and 90 Warm and rounded, it offers rich pear and lead to a wine that is ripe, rounded and full in the a cool feel all work well together. Louis Latour Inc. apricot fruits. It is textured as well, showing some mouth. The acidity is masked by the richness, leav- —R.V. fresh acidity, a touch of minerality from the terroir, ing apricot rather than citrus as the dominant char- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and a tangy, zesty aftertaste. Drink now, but better acter. Vin de Garde Wines. —R.V. at the end of 2014. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Bouchard Père & Fils 2012 Réserve Chardon- abv: NA Price: $NA 85 nay (Bourgogne). This bright, young wine is Manoir du Capucin 2012 Délice (Mâcon Solu- full of citrus, apples and apricots, leaving plenty of La Soufrandière 2012 Clos de Grand Père 87 tré). Full of tropical fruit aromas, this is a room for fresh acidity at the end. Henriot Inc. —R.V. 90 (Mâcon-Vinzelles). A lightly smoky aroma rounded and rich wine. Full in the mouth, it delivers abv: 12.5% Price: $20 shows the wood aging of this wine. It is toasty, with ripe peach, apricot and mango fruits. The texture a mineral touch, and the ripe yellow fruits are de- veloping well. Smooth and potentially rich, this
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fruit and the firm texture all promising long-term It’s powerful and dark, jammy as well as structured. RED BURGUNDY aging. Drink from 2020. The Wine Cellarage. —R.V. The wood flavors are still showing strongly and need abv: 13.5% Price: $170 to soften. Drink from 2019. Frederick Wildman & GRANDS CRUS Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Corton. This is abv: 13% Price: $226 Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Le Corton (Cor- 94 a powerful wine with complex structure, 96 ton). For full review see page 3. Cellar Se- dense fruits and a solid texture. It’s dry, firm, dark Louis Latour 2011 Cuvée Héritiers Latour lection. and still very young. The core of the wine is still 93 (Chambertin). For full review see page 5. abv: 13.5% Price: $115 tannin, the black cherry fruit giving so much rich- Cellar Selection. ness before the fresh acidity cuts in. Drink from abv: 14% Price: $280 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Chambertin. 2018. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selec- 96 This is full of fruit and weighty tannins. tion. —R.V. Louis Latour 2011 Clos de Vougeot. The wine Coming from one of the finest vineyards in Burgun- abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 has the right weight and power. It comes dy, it is going to have great power and an opulent from a blend of different parcels, bringing out the nature. This wine also has elegance, its black fruits Domaine Faiveley 2011 Latricières-Cham- complexity of the vineyards. Black fruits are soft controlled and with a mineral edge. That doesn’t 94 bertin. A firmly structured wine, packed and generous, supported by tannins as well as lico- take away the power, it enhances the stylishness of with fruit, acidity and complex tannins. It is power- rice and wood flavors. At the end, fresher red fruits this grand wine. Drink from 2020. The Wine Cellar- ful, dark and rich with great weight to balance the show. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. age. Cellar Selection. —R.V. dry, smoky character from wood aging. It’s impres- abv: 14% Price: $280 abv: 13.5% Price: $240 sive, concentrated with a touch of licorice and spice that cuts through the acidity. Drink from 2020. Louis Latour 2011 Les Quatre Journaux Alex Gambal 2011 Clos de Vougeot. This Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. 93 (Romanée-St.-Vivant). Solid and tannic, it 95 dark, brooding wine is still tight and closed. —R.V. perhaps lacks huge weight but shows elegant struc- It’s powerful and concentrated, with gripping tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $257 ture and rounded tannins. The wine is already deli- nins as well as delicious black fruits. It’s solid, ciously fruity, and will charm as it ages. Black fruits chunky and very firm while retaining the generous Domaine Faiveley 2011 Mazis-Chambertin. are right up front, the tannins a fine supporting act. fruitiness of the vintage. Don’t drink before 2020. 94 Big, ripe and fruity, it combines a rich Drink from 2017. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Ruby Wines Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. character along with the firmest tannins and dense abv: 14% Price: $740 abv: 14% Price: $180 structure. Acidity adds a touch of freshness, while the structure and full fruit are concentrated and Louis Latour 2011 Château Corton Grancey Alex Gambal 2011 Latricières-Chambertin. still young. Give this solid, dark wine at least until 92 (Corton). Corton Grancey is the site of Louis 95 Power and concentration exude from this 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Latour’s winery and has a long tradition in the fam- wine. Very structured, very firm, it has solid tannins abv: 13.5% Price: $294 ily’s hands. This 2011 is powerful and solid while backed up by powerful black, juicy fruits. Black- offering very ripe and jammy fruits. Attractive acid- berry flavors are still developing in this seriously Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Charmes-Cham- ity cuts through the richness and contrasts with the ageworthy wine. Drink from 2020. Ruby Wines Inc. 94 bertin. The right sense of weight and struc- finely modulated structure. It has good aging poten- Cellar Selection. —R.V. ture are allied with gorgeous fruitiness and fresh- tial, drink from 2018. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $200 ness. This winning combination shows black fruits abv: 14% Price: $140 and a brooding character that needs time. Drink Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Chambertin Clos from 2018. Massanois Imports. Cellar Selection. 95 de Bèze. A small, acre-sized parcel gives a —R.V. MARSANNAY wine that has both great structure and finesse. It re- abv: 13% Price: $NA tains the natural fruitiness of the vintage as well as Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Clos du Roy Vie- a more defined texture. Concentration and densely Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Echézeaux. A 92 illes Vignes (Marsannay). Old vines, on aver- ripe fruit are already finely integrated with the hints 94 wine with power and structure from one of age 60 years old, give an extraordinarily perfumed of wood. The wine speaks of long aging potential; the great Grand Crus of Burgundy. The wines have wine that has fragrance, deep tannins and already don’t drink before 2019. Terlato Wines Internation- weight with generous red fruits and a great sense of delicious red fruits. Its youth is shown by the tight al. Cellar Selection. —R.V. depth, and are very firm at the end. The vines are acidity and dry concentration at the end. Drink from abv: 13% Price: $300 managed by Bernard Bouvier. Massanois Imports. 2018. Massanois Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Faiveley 2011 Clos des Cortons abv: 13% Price: $NA 95 Faiveley (Corton-Rognet). Rounded and Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Champ Salomon rich, it is full of dark fruits and red cherries that Domaine Faiveley 2011 Chambertin Clos de 91 (Marsannay). Probably named after a man combine with firm tannins and great acidity. This 93 Bèze. With three acres out of 36 in this called Salomon rather than the biblical king, this comes from a parcel of the Corton Rognets Grand Grand Cru, Faiveley is one of the larger proprietors. very structured wine is dense with solid tannins Cru that unusually has been given the Faiveley The wine is firm and structured with solid tannins, and firm fruits. In this concentrated wine, the acid- name. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & while black fruits give acidity and freshness to this ity is very present, while the structure dominates. Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. massive wine. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman Drink from 2018. Massanois Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $225 & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $391 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Chapelle- Domaine René Bouvier 2011 En Ouzeloy 95 Chambertin. This is richly powerful, packed Domaine Faiveley 2011 Echézeaux. Faiveley 90 (Marsannay). While the wine is superficial- with dark plum fruits and solid, concentrated tan- 93 owns two acres of this large Grand Cru vine- ly tannic, its main character is rich fruit. Red ber- nins. At this stage, it is closed, a potential power- yard. This 2011 is a big, bold and fruity wine that ries and cherries are nicely combined under the dry house of firm fruits and structure. It has weight, the shows red fruits, a sweet texture and good acidity. surface to give a warm, rounded wine that is ripe
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 and fruity. It is perfumed and likely to fill out soon. the fruitiness. It feels dense and with good poten- Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Racines du Drink from 2017. Massanois Imports. —R.V. tial. Drink from 2018. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. 92 Temps (Gevrey-Chambertin). Made from abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $35 80-year-old vines from several parcels, this is a concentrated and dense wine. Red berry fruits give Louis Jadot 2011 Clos du Roy (Marsannay). Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Crais de Chêne freshness, but it is the structure that counts. Drink 90 Dense tannins dominate this firm and 89 (Fixin). From the good-value Fixin appella- from 2018. Massanois Imports. —R.V. structured wine. Behind the dry surface lies fruiti- tion, this full wine offers minerality but, more no- abv: 13% Price: $NA ness, bringing out red currant and berry flavors ticeably, a ripe, red-fruited feel, with acidity to give along with acidity. The wine is potentially rich and freshness. Hints of licorice show the wood aging. Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Vieilles Vi- deliciously perfumed. Drink from 2017. Kobrand. Drink from 2016. Massanois Imports. —R.V. 92 gnes (Gevrey-Chambertin). From vines aver- —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA aging 50 years of age, this is powerful, ripe and con- abv: 12.5% Price: $36 centrated. It has dark black fruits, red berries that Domaine Alain Jeanniard 2011 En Combe Roy give acidity, and a richly fruity structure. It punches Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Marsannay. A 88 (Fixin). Solid and tannic, this is a full-bod- well above its village appellation. Drink from 2017. 89 dark-hued wine, it’s richly fruity with spice ied wine with potential. Ripe fruits are dense and The Wine Cellarage. —R.V. and wood flavors. It is ripe, full in the mouth, of- juicy. With both structure and fruit, this wine will abv: 13.5% Price: $50 fering solid tannins as well as attractive acidity. It’s develop well. Drink from 2017. David Bowler Wine. suited for medium-term aging, so drink from 2016. —R.V. Domaine René Bouvier 2011 La Justice Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 (Gevrey-Chambertin). Firm and solid, it also abv: NA Price: $24 shows a lighter touch of red berry fruits. Great acid- ity and pure fruitiness offer a wonderful straight Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Longeroies GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN line of acidity. Drink this wine that features solid 88 (Marsannay). A single-vineyard wine, it’s tannins as well as fine fruit from 2017. Massanois beautifully perfumed, stylish and discloses lively Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Petite Cha- Imports. —R.V. acidity alongside bright, fresh fruits. Red berries 94 pelle Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). abv: 13% Price: $NA and tight tannins give a fragrant feel. Drink from From vines just below the line of Grand Cru vine- 2016. Massanois Imports. —R.V. yards, this is a big and powerful expression of Pinot Louis Latour 2011 Les Cazetiers Premier Cru abv: 13% Price: $NA Noir. It is dense with firm tannins that are embed- 91 (Gevrey-Chambertin). Very structured and ded in the ripe black fruits. It’s a complex wine, dense, this powerful wine succeeds with its black Louis Latour 2012 Marsannay. At this young serious while still fruity, and needing to age. Drink fruits, touches of wood and integrated tannins. The 87 stage, this wine is shockingly tart. It will from 2018. The Wine Cellarage. Cellar Selection. wine is both ripe and fruity, suggesting serious ag- calm down and broaden out, but the acidity is likely —R.V. ing. Drink from 2017. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selec- to dominate for several years. Wait until 2017 for abv: 13.5% Price: $97 tion. —R.V. the fruit to turn riper and more jammy. Louis Latour abv: 13.5% Price: $110 Inc. —R.V. Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Les Fontenys abv: NA Price: $27 93 Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This firm Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Gevrey-Cham- wine has structure as well as enticing sweet red 90 bertin. Big and smoky, it discloses fruit as Maison Champy 2011 Marsannay. Attractive berry fruits. Dynamic and fruity, it has a dark struc- well as solid tannins. The wine has power and den- 87 red fruits and freshness combine to produce ture that impressively expresses this solid terroir. sity, with black fruits that show sweetness. It will a lively, elegant wine with a light structure and Drink from 2018. Massanois Imports. Cellar Selec- be delicious but the structure does need to soften complete fruitiness. Drink from 2017. Verity Wine tion. —R.V. first. Drink from 2017. Henriot Inc. —R.V. Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Faiveley 2011 Les Cazetiers Premier Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Gevrey-Cham- Louis Latour 2011 Marsannay. Fresh, light 92 Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This finely made 89 bertin. From vines close to the premier crus, 86 and fruity with attractive red fruits and soft wine has weight and firm tannins, along with in- this is firm and solid while generous. It conveys tannins, it’s ready to drink. The aftertaste is fresh tense acidity. Faiveley owns 12 acres of this premier power and structure along with a more delicious, and fruity. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. cru which produces structured wines with fruit perfumed side. Drink from 2017. Terlato Wines In- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 tannins and smoky fruit. At the end, the wood ag- ternational. —R.V. ing gives a burnt edge that needs to soften. Drink abv: 13% Price: $24 from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar FIXIN Selection. —R.V. Louis Latour 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin. The abv: 13% Price: $123 87 wine is full of rich red fruits layered with Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Fixin. The big tan- light tannins. It has weight without power but is go- 91 nins indicate a wine with powerful potential. Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Jeunes Rois ing to be delicious and open over the medium-term. It has weight, richness, generous red fruits and a 92 (Gevrey-Chambertin). From slopes above Drink from 2015. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. strong sense of structure. The freshness of the vin- the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, this densely abv: 13.5% Price: $70 tage comes through in the acidity at the end. Drink tannic wine has a powerful structure that brings from 2018. Massanois Imports. —R.V. out the wood and adds licorice flavors to the bit- abv: NA Price: $NA ter cherry fruits. At the end, the year’s signature CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY freshness shows more strongly. Massanois Imports. Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2011 La Mazière (Fixin). —R.V. Alex Gambal 2011 Aux Echanges Premier Cru 89 A perfumed wine, it’s rich and full of ripe abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 (Chambolle-Musigny). A wine from a tiny berry flavors. Solid tannins are integrating well into premier cru that is literally situated at a crossroads. It displays the smoothness and richness that come
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with wood aging, as well as concentrated tannins to end gives just the right lift. Drink this powerful Louis Latour 2011 Les Damodes Premier Cru support the generous fruit. Black plums and straw- wine from 2017. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. 90 (Nuits-St.-Georges). Firm in its tannins berries give a dense wine that will age. Drink from abv: 13.5% Price: $75 and with a sense of power, this full-bodied wine 2018. Ruby Wines Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. has great fruit, along with wood and licorice flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $130 Louis Latour 2011 Les Petits Monts Premier This complex and fruity, wine is generous and ready 92 Cru (Vosne-Romanée). This powerful, spicy to age. Drink from 2017. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Les Fuées Premier wine offers structure and a thrust of wood. Firm abv: 13.5% Price: $85 91 Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). This ripe, concen- and dark, as befits a Vosne-Romanée, it is densely trated wine has rounded tannins plus a structure powerful, full of black fruits that are already shining Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2010 Les Vau- that gives weight as well as richness. It comes from above the structure. Drink from 2017. Louis Latour 89 crains Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). For vines close to Morey Saint-Denis. The richness Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. the vintage, this is a surprisingly soft wine. It’s al- promises good aging. Drink from 2017. Massanois abv: 13.5% Price: $145 ready juicy, full of fresh strawberries and soft tan- Imports. —R.V. nins. That makes for a delicious wine, rounded with abv: 13% Price: $NA a touch of wood. It’s not likely to age much beyond NUITS-ST.-GEORGE 2017, but is certainly attractive now. Misa Imports. Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Mombies —R.V. 90 (Chambolle-Musigny). Warm and ripe, it Benjamin Leroux 2011 Aux Thorey Premier abv: 13% Price: $NA offers bitter cherry fruits, sweet berries and a layer 93 Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). This powerful wine of firm tannins. It’s already balanced and delicious features wood and the ripest fruit. It also has the Chanson Père et Fils 2011 Nuits-St.-Georges. with weight and structure. At the end, it is all bright solid structure of a Nuits Saint-Georges, creating a 88 From vines in the south of Nuits-Saint- fruitiness. Valley View Wine Sales. —R.V. wine that is dark and impressively concentrated. It Georges, this presents a softer view of the appella- abv: 13% Price: $NA offers richness while preserving the fresh fruitiness tion. It is solid, but it has warmth and rich fruits as of the vintage. Drink from 2017. Le Serbet. Cellar well. Drink this juicy, fruity and balnaced wine from Joseph Faiveley 2011 Les Charmes Premier Selection. —R.V. 2016. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. 89 Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). This pleasantly abv: 13.5% Price: $100 abv: 13% Price: $24 perfumed wine has some acidity, jammy red fruits and soft tannins. It feels very rounded and smooth, Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Les Cailles Premier Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Les Vau- with a structure that is totally integrated into the 93 Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A wine with great 88 crains Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A velvet texture. Drink from 2016. Frederick Wildman sweet fruits along with smoky, firm tannins. It is fragrant wine, it offers truffle and red fruit aromas. & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. certainly structured, and the black jelly fruits are The palate is ripe although it does have intense abv: 13% Price: $141 already delicious. Weight partners with acidity, cre- acidity, more bright red fruits than firmer structure. ating a combination of freshness and richness at the It feels almost ready to drink, fruity and fresh. Tur- Louis Latour 2011 Chambolle-Musigny. This end. Drink from 2018. Henriot Inc. —R.V. quoise Life. —R.V. 89 is a beautiful, rounded and soft wine with abv: 13.5% Price: $100 abv: 13% Price: $NA sweet fruits and gentle tannins. Embedded in the intense fruitiness, a solid structure will help the Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Damodes wine age. Drink from 2016. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 92 (Nuits-St.-Georges). From a parcel that is CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES abv: 13.5% Price: $75 outside the Premier Cru of Les Damodes, this is a structured, steely and mineral-textured wine. Firm Maison Ambroise 2011 Côte de Nuits-Villag- Joseph Faiveley 2011 Chambolle-Musigny. tannins go with attractive perfumes and the poten- 89 es. Rounded and ripe, it has tannins nicely 87 This is a soft and fruity wine with excellent tial of ripe, jammy fruit. The end has great acidity as embedded in the red plum and strawberry flavors. acidity to balance. With its jammy red berry fruit well as a smoky character from wood aging. Drink It’s full-bodied and already showing a delicious, se- flavors and attractive gentle tannins, it is ready to from 2016. Valley View Wine Sales. —R.V. ductive side. Drink from 2016. Robert Kacher Selec- drink. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA tions. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $96 abv: 13% Price: $39 Domaine Faiveley 2011 Aux Chaignots Pre- 91 mier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). From vines just Albert Bichot 2011 Côte de Nuits-Villages. VOSNE-ROMANÉE to the north of Nuits Saint-Georges, this firm and 88 This rich, smoky wine has broad tannins structured wine features ripe fruits, red berries and a soft texture. It’s full in the mouth with sweet Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Suchots and bitter cherry flavors. Both dark in texture and red fruits and gentle tannins. Already attractive, it’s 94 Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée). Very terroir- perfumed, it’s powerful and does need some aging. likely to develop quickly with its warm character. driven from chalk soil in this great vineyard, this Drink from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Drink from 2016. European Wine Imports. —R.V. firmly structured wine is powerful and solid. There —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 is a mineral character at this stage of the wine’s abv: 13% Price: $112 development, with 60% new wood giving a light- Domaine René Bouvier 2011 Côte de Nuits- ly smoky feel. Drink from 2017. Valley View Wine Domaine Faiveley 2011 Les Porets Saint- 87 Villages. Vines in Brochon, on the edge Sales. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 91 Georges Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). The of Gevrey-Chambertin, produce this bright, light abv: 13% Price: $NA 60% new wood aging is showing strongly in this wine with good acidity and attractive berry fruits. structured wine. Rich and rounded, it offers hints Perfumed and only lightly structured, it’s ready to Alex Gambal 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Vosne- of spice, red cherry fruits and a firmly, tannic edge. drink from 2015. Massanois Imports. —R.V. 93 Romanée). From vines more than 50 years The aftertaste brings out a jammy richness. Drink abv: 13% Price: $NA old, this is a full-throated, concentrated wine. Solid from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. tannins and rich black fruits combine with struc- abv: 13% Price: $101 R. Dubois et Fils 2011 Côte de Nuits-Villages. ture and a sweet, ripe aftertaste. The acidity at the 87 Solid and textured, this rich wine is showing as much tannin as fruit. But its warmth promises a
34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 wine with attractive red fruits and a generous fu- and firm wines, unlike many of the softer wines needs time. Drink from 2017. Grape Expectations ture. Drink from 2016. Margate Wine & Spirit Com- from Savigny. With new wood and licorice flavors, (CA). —R.V. pany. —R.V. it is darkly textured and firm. The red fruits are still abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $30 developing, showing the rich potential of the wine. Drink from 2017. Henriot Inc. —R.V. Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Savigny-lès- Domaine Jean Petitot et Fils 2011 Les Vi- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 88 Beaune. Attractive and softly rich fruits are 86 gnottes (Côte de Nuits-Villages). The wine lined with excellent fresh acidity. The wine is full of is structured and still firm, showing tight tannins Denis Père et Fils 2011 Savigny-lès-Beaune. ripe strawberry fruits and warm tannins that have and acidity over the red fruits. A cool edge elicits 90 It offers a good mix of acidity and fragrant additional red currant crispness at the end. Henriot the fresher character of the fruits. Drink from 2016. red berry fruits. It is rounded and just gently tannic, Inc. —R.V. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —R.V. with an acidity that comes from sweet fruitiness. At abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $41 the end, a firmer, drier edge gives promise for aging. Drink from 2018. Cru Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine Chandon de Briailles 2011 Savigny- Joseph Drouhin 2011 Côte de Nuits-Villages. abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 lès-Beaune. Fruity and jammy, this ripe 86 This attractive wine has good acidity as well wine has structure and acidity, along with a good as attractive red berry fruits. It’s ready to drink with Domaine Chanson 2011 Dominode Premier depth of flavor. It will certainly age and shouldn’t be its soft fruitiness and light tannins. Dreyfus, Ashby 90 Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). A four-acre par- drunk before 2017. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. & Co. —R.V. cel in the middle of this premier cru yields a wine abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $32 with richness. Tannins are well-embedded in the red fruits and the wine shows good freshness at Domaine du Prieuré 2011 Moutier Amet Louis Jadot 2011 Le Vaucrain (Côte de Nuits- the end. It’s already delicious and perfumed, with 88 (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Full of red fruits, it 85 Villages). The acidity is most obvious at this a firm, dry core. Drink from 2017. Terlato Wines In- also has a strong structure and firm tannins. For stage of the wine’s development. It does have struc- ternational. —R.V. now, the wine is textured and dense. It needs to age ture, but it feels cool and tight. A green edge at the abv: 13% Price: $50 and broaden out to give a softer feeling. Drink from back adds to the cool character. Kobrand. —R.V. 2018. Chloe Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $39 Henri de Villamont 2011 Le Village (Savigny- abv: 13% Price: $25 90 lès-Beaune). Ripe and fruity, it shows both Pierre Cornu Camus 2011 Côte de Nuits-Villag- good acidity and attractive tannins. It has weight, Maison Champy 2011 Aux Fourches (Savigny- 83 es. The wine seems soapy and out of focus. red cherry flavors and a structure that supports the 88 lès-Beaune). Broad and rounded, it is full of It’s soft while missing fruit. The acidity and fresh- fruitiness. It’s delicious but needs more time. Drink sweet fruits and soft tannins while still retaining a ness at the end are the best parts. Petit Pois Corpo- from 2017. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. good sense of structure. Red fruits come through ration. —R.V. —R.V. strongly to give richness. It’s for short-term aging. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Pierre André 2011 Savigny-lès-Beaune. Rich LADOIX 90 as well as structured, it’s ripe and already Pierre Cornu Camus 2011 Savigny-lès- delicious. Berry and cherry fruits are nicely sur- 88 Beaune. This structured wine with good Chevalier Père et Fils 2011 Ladoix. It already rounded by both acidity and tannins. Full in the weight is full of smoky tannins, behind which lie 89 has a balance between acidity and rich red mouth, it’s going to be an estimable wine. Drink rich red fruits. It has good potential, offering a fu- berry fruits. Red cherries add extra fruitiness to this from 2017. Misa Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. ture full of fruit as well as a more solid structure. structured, ripe wine that will age well. Drink from abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Drink from 2018. Petit Pois Corporation. —R.V. 2017. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine du Prieuré 2011 Les Gollardes 89 (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This wine will age Domaine Antonin Guyon 2011 Les Goude- Domaine Jean Petitot et Fils 2011 Vieilles Vi- well. Smoky tannins support ripe berry fruits and 87 lettes (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Already bal- 87 gnes (Ladoix). While the wine shows strong balanced acidity. It feels rich, full in the mouth and anced, this is a rich, firm and elegant wine. Its fruit- acidity at this stage, it also has enough jammy fruits already is showing great potential. Drink from 2017. iness comes from plum skins and black cherries as to give it potential richness. Berries go with plums Chloe Wine Imports. —R.V. well as the acidity. It also has a solid core of tannin. and ripe tannins to indicate a wine that will age abv: 13% Price: $25 Palm Bay International. —R.V. well. Drink from 2017. Bonhomie Wine Imports. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. Domaine Jean Petitot et Fils 2011 Les Pimen- abv: NA Price: $36 89 tiers (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Firm tannins Domaine Daniel Largeot 2011 Savigny-lès- don’t completely hide the bright red berry flavors 87 Beaune. Smooth, rich and rounded, this is Pierre André 2011 Ladoix. This tight wine of this full wine. Red cherries dominate, giving a already deliciously drinkable. It offers firm tannins 84 has red fruit acidity without the richness. broad feeling even while the tannic structure is still while keeping rich red fruits and supporting acidity With its green edge, it’s likely to remain full of acid- in charge. Good acidity at the end adds to the sense firmly in the picture. Drink from 2017. Charles Neal ity even as it matures. Misa Imports. —R.V. of aging potential. Drink from 2017. Bonhomie Wine Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $34 abv: NA Price: $38 Manuel Seguin 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Savigny- SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE Arnoux & Fils 2011 Les Pimentiers (Savigny- 87 lès-Beaune). This structured wine has tight 88 lès-Beaune). Ripe and jammy, it’s full of red acidity as well as dry tannins. It shows potential for Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Les Lavières Pre- fruit jelly flavors. It has just enough tannic structure more generous fruitiness as it matures, but is likely 92 mier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). The light, to support the fruit, giving balance with a dry core stony soil of Les Lavières produces structured, tight and fragrant acidity. It’s rich, full in the mouth and
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to remain structured and firm. Drink from 2017. ripeness. The tannins are hard at the end. Dreyfus, tured wine shows wood flavors from its 30% new Winebow. —R.V. Ashby & Co. —R.V. wood. To balance it has great ripe fruits and a tight abv: NA Price: $38 abv: NA Price: $28 texture of acidity. The wine is still nervy, closed up with minerality. It needs time, so drink from 2016. R. Dubois et Fils 2011 Savigny-lès-Beaune. Valley View Wine Sales. —R.V. 87 Complex and structured, it has hints of the BEAUNE abv: 13% Price: $NA generous nature of Savigny, but these are embedded in the firm tannins that bring a smoky character to Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Vigne de l’Enfant Louis Latour 2011 Vignes Franches Premier Cru the wine. Wood flavors show through with a bitter 94 Jésus Grèves Premier Cru (Beaune). For full 91 (Beaune). Fruity and ripe, it also presents a edge that needs to soften as it ages. Drink from 2017. review see page 3. Cellar Selection. fresh feel that cuts through the jammy red fruits Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $100 and gives an edge to the weight and velvet texture. abv: NA Price: $35 It’s almost ready to drink but will be better from Domaine Chanson 2011 Clos des Fèves Pre- 2015. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2011 Savigny-lès-Beaune. Al- 94 mier Cru (Beaune). A specialty of Chanson, abv: 13.5% Price: $75 85 ready dense, this wine seems to lack fruit. this small premier cru gives a perfumed, dark and The tannins dominate at the moment along with tannic wine. The dense, firm structure gives a dra- acidity. It’s likely to remain quite a tight. European matic base to the ripe black fruits, balanced acidity POMMARD Wine Imports. —R.V. and a touch of wood that smoothes the wine. Drink abv: NA Price: $23 from 2018. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Se- Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Bertins lection. —R.V. 93 Premier Cru (Pommard). In this rich, dense Domaine Michel et Joanna Ecard 2011 Vieilles abv: 13% Price: $100 wine, firm tannins have already been smoothed 85 Vignes (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This wine is by 50% new wood. It is solid, dark and tannic, a rather too jammy and ripe for its own good. It does Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Clos de la Mousse powerful wine that is ripe now and will reveal great have acidity, but it is also soft without the essential 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). For full review see fruitiness as it ages. From vines close to Volnay, structure. It’s not a wine for aging. North Berkeley page 5. it has hints of the voluptuousness of that village. Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Drink from 2017. Valley View Wine Sales. Cellar abv: NA Price: $NA Selection. —R.V. Domaine Chanson 2011 Clos des Mouches abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). Firm and structured, CHOREY-LÈS-BEAUNE this dense and dark wine offers ripe black fruits and Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Premier Cru a concentrated texture. It also shows good acidity 92 (Pommard). A blend of wines from differ- Domaine Daniel Largeot 2011 Chorey-lès- and the fruitiness of 2011, giving a wine that is both ent Premier Cru vineyards, this is firm, as befits a 88 Beaune. Acidity combines with ripe red rich and fresh. Age and drink from 2017. Terlato Pommard, but has such great ripe fruit that it feels berry flavors. The tannins are still developing, giv- Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. almost opulent. Lovely rich raspberry fruits are ing potential structure to this fruity wine. Wait un- abv: 13% Price: $105 touched wit red currants and supported by solid til 2017. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. tannins at the end. Drink from 2017. Henriot Inc. abv: 13% Price: $28 Domaine Chanson 2011 Grèves Premier Cru —R.V. 93 (Beaune). This is a blend from ten differ- abv: 13.5% Price: $80 Maison Champy 2011 Chorey-lès-Beaune. ent parcels of the Grèves vineyard. It’s beautifully 88 This is a tight wine, full of acidity and a dry smooth, hiding its structure behind generous red Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Vaumu- core of tannin. It does have weight and will certainly fruits as well as a fresh, crisp texture. It’s complex, 91 riens (Pommard). Produced from old vines, bring out its red fruits as it matures. It’s full in the warm, very perfumed and elegant. Drink from 2017. this textured, solid wine has a tight and firmly tan- mouth and likely to be delicious from 2017. Verity Terlato Wines International. —R.V. nic character. Underneath, red cherry fruits are Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA already releasing a fragrant side and the potential abv: 13% Price: $NA of bright fruitiness. Drink from 2016. Valley View Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Les Teurons Wine Sales. —R.V. Arnoux & Fils 2011 Les Beaumonts (Chorey- 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). This is a soft wine abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 lès-Beaune). A perfumed wine, it has a on the surface, but under that generosity lies a firm smooth texture contrasting with tight acidity. It’s core that gives the promise of aging. This powerful Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Pommard. The light, fruity and still needs a little time to develop. wine comes from stony soil which explains the tan- 89 wine has the firmness of a Pommard along The soft tannins don’t suggest long aging. Drink nic structure while the richness comes from ripe with ripe fruits full of sweetness and acidity. That from 2016. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. berry fruits. Drink from 2017. The Wine Cellarage. makes it structured and with a good future, while abv: NA Price: $NA Editors’ Choice. —R.V. being totally fruity at the same time. Drink from abv: 13.5% Price: $50 2015. Henriot Inc. —R.V. Henri de Villamont 2011 Chorey-lès-Beaune. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 85 Still very young, it’s full of acidity as well Alex Gambal 2011 Les Grèves Premier Cru as bright raspberry fruits that give freshness. This 92 (Beaune). This solid, bold wine has a velvet Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Vignots light wine will soon be ready to drink. Frank John- texture. Black fruits are rounded with a generous 89 (Pommard). This comes from a single vine- son Selections. —R.V. texture, although a firmer, tannic character waits in yard high up the hill above Pommard. The wine is abv: 13% Price: $32 the background. It is structured and elegant. Drink ripe and full-bodied, with a firm structure of dry from 2017. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. tannins and touches of licorice. The underlying red Joseph Drouhin 2011 Chorey-lès-Beaune. The abv: 13.5% Price: $57 fruits need time to come forward. Drink from 2015. 84 wine is tight, green and herbal. It has some Valley View Wine Sales. —R.V. fruitiness, but that is suppressed by general under- Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 Chouacheux Premier Cru (Beaune). This tex-
36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Louis Latour 2011 Epenots Premier Cru (Pom- rich wood flavors with the same intensity as the red Ripe and juicy, it shows great fruitiness at the end. 88 mard). With its tannins, the wine is firm, fruits. It is firm and somewhat extracted with lico- Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. tight and dark. The black fruit flavors are just be- rice and dark chocolate coming through the cher- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ginning to come through. It has power and structure ry fruits. At the end, the solid wood is dominant, and certainly needs to age. Drink from 2017. Louis meaning the wine needs time. Drink from 2017. Domaine Dominique Gruhier 2011 Côte de Latour Inc. —R.V. Henriot Inc. —R.V. 88 Grisey Cuvée Juliette (Bourgogne Epineuil). abv: 13.5% Price: $95 abv: 13% Price: $60 With spice and dark coffee flavors, this wine shows some wood aging. It also has considerable acidity Domaine Chanson 2011 Les Vergelesses Pre- and the brightest strawberry fruit. Lively and fra- VOLNAY 91 mier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). The wine grant at the end, it can be drunk now. Le Serbet. comes from clay soil, which adds richness to the —R.V. Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Caillerets Anci- cool, calm feeling of fragrant red fruits. With firm abv: 13% Price: $30 94 enne Cuvée Carnot Premier Cru (Volnay). tannins as well as tight acidity and structure, it is This is its usual opulent, generous self, although certainly for aging. Drink after 2016. Terlato Wines Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Bourgogne. in 2011 the fruit dominates. Ripe strawberry fruits International. —R.V. 88 A perfumed wine, it’s very fresh and bright are packed around sweet tannins and balanced with abv: 13% Price: $50 with strawberry flavors as well as a delicate touch acidity. The wine is rich but is also powered with a of tannin. A delicious wine to drink now. The Wine firm structure. At the end, the wood aging shows. David Moreau 2011 Côte de Beaune-Villages. Cellarage. —R.V. Drink from 2018. Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. 90 This is a warm wine with a rounded feel, abv: 12.5% Price: $22 —R.V. making it soft and full of red fruits. It features abv: 13.5% Price: $85 strawberry sweetness as well as a tighter, more tan- Domaine Dominique Gruhier 2011 Côte de nic character. It could well age, so wait until 2016. 87 Grisey (Bourgogne Epineuil). Epineuil is a Domaine Faiveley 2011 Frémiets Premier Le Serbet. —R.V. region between Burgundy and Chablis, producing 90 Cru (Volnay). Rounded and soft, it’s packed abv: 13% Price: $27 light, fruity Pinot Noir. This perfumed and dusty with ripe red fruits. The tannins are velvety, giv- wine does show some firm tannins. It is bright with ing an opulent, generous wine. In contrast, there is Louis Latour 2011 Morgeot Premier Cru red currant and raspberry fruits, with a fresh after- enough acidity and tannin support to give the wine 90 (Chassagne-Montrachet). In this powerful, taste. Le Serbet. —R.V. potential. Drink from 2017. Frederick Wildman & full-bodied wine, soft fruit accompanies the firm abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Sons, Ltd. —R.V. tannins. The wine is already well integrated, show- abv: 13% Price: $93 ing dense red fruits as well as structure. A touch of Bouchard Père & Fils 2012 Réserve Pinot wood will soften soon. Drink from 2016. Louis La- 86 Noir (Bourgogne). This fruity wine fea- Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Volnay. From tour Inc. —R.V. tures strawberry and bitter cherry flavors. A lightly 89 a low-elevation parcel of vines below the abv: 13.5% Price: $60 tannic structure accompanies a very fragrant and village, this ripe wine has had its tannins smoothed smoky character. Wood shows through at the end. by wood. It is fruity but offers a dense texture, fin- Louis Latour 2011 Ile de Vergelesses Premier Drink from 2015. Henriot Inc. —R.V. ishing richly and ripely. Drink now, but better from 89 Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). In this ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $20 2015. Valley View Wine Sales. —R.V. wine, solid tannins are attractively balanced with abv: 13% Price: $NA red fruits. It does have a cool character from the Domaine Faiveley 2011 Pinot Noir (Bour- vineyard, showing structure as well as delicious 86 gogne). Attractive red fruits dominate this fruitiness. Drink from 2016. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. light and fruity wine. Good acidity and bright fla- MERCUREY abv: 13.5% Price: $50 vors are smoothed by wood, while the aftertaste brings back the fruit. Drink now. Frederick Wild- Domaine Faiveley 2011 Clos de Myglands Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Monthélie. This is man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 90 Premier Cru (Mercurey). This ripe and fruity 88 a ripe and fruity wine, with soft tannins and abv: 12.5% Price: $24 wine comes from Faiveley’s wholly-owned vineyard rich raspberry fruits. Already accessible, it’s very in Mercurey. A touch of tannin gives structure to full in the mouth, wonderfully juicy and jammy, yet Domaine Olivier Merlin 2011 Bourgogne. This the cherry fruits and ripe acidity. It’s a rounded with some freshness at the end. Henriot Inc. —R.V. 86 small domaine in the Mâcon region has pro- wine to drink now, but better to age until 2015. abv: 13% Price: $45 duced a soft, ripe wine with attractive strawberry Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. fruits. It’s rounded, with just light acidity over the abv: 13% Price: $45 Domaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Le Clos des fruit flavors. At the end, it feels warm and ripe. 87 Topes Bizot (Côte de Beaune). This fresh Drink now. Le Serbet. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2011 Clos du Roy Premier wine is vinified in tanks rather than wood to retain abv: 13% Price: $20 89 Cru (Mercurey). Faiveley possesses a con- the bright strawberry fruit flavors. It is elegant, siderable domaine in Mercurey, including vines in light and has good acidity. Drink now. Valley View Vignerons de Bel Air 2013 Grande QV Gamay this premier cru. It is ripe and rounded, with jammy Wine Sales. —R.V. 85 (Coteaux Bourguignons). Lightly tannic, fruits and soft tannins. Plenty of acidity enhances abv: 13% Price: $NA this wine is about red cherry and blueberry fruits, red berry fruitiness and the full-bodied feel. Drink along with hints of banana. Fresh and fruity, it of- from 2015. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. fers a balance of acidity and tannins at the end. abv: 13% Price: $50 BOURGOGNE Drink now. Matinicus Wines, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Alex Gambal 2011 Cuvée des Deux Papis OTHER CÔTE DE BEAUNE 88 (Bourgogne). Rich red fruits combine with good acidity, raspberry flavors and soft tannins. Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Les Duresses Pre- 91 mier Cru (Monthélie). The wine shows the
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rus that finish warm, with a hint of caramel. Drink evidence of oak maturation in its notes of light toast RHÔNE it over the next couple of years. Vintus LLC. —J.C. and baking spices. Those elements are supported abv: 14% Price: $125 by pleasant citrus flavors, but the result isn’t com- WHITE WINES pletely convincing. Palm Bay International. —J.C. Les Vins de Vienne 2011 Le Chambée (Con- abv: 13.5% Price: $85 CONDRIEU 91 drieu). This full-bodied wine packs in every- thing you’d expect from Condrieu. Floral aromas? E. Guigal 2010 La Doriane (Condrieu). De- Check. Apricot fruit? Check. Richness balanced SAINT-JOSEPH 94 spite being barrel fermented and matured, by minerality? Check. The lively finish, accented this Condrieu retains a remarkable amount of va- by white pepper, is particularly noteworthy. Drink Gilles Flacher 2011 Cuvée Loess (Saint-Jo- rietal character in its flamboyantly floral and spicy now–2016. DHI Selections. —J.C. 91 seph). Like most Saint-Joseph whites, this aromas. It’s full bodied, broad and richly textured, abv: 13.5% Price: $85 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne is only mod- yet avoids any sense of heaviness, finishing on hints estly aromatic. What it does deliver is a world of of honey and white pepper. Drink now–2020. Vin- E. Guigal 2010 Condrieu. Guigal accounts weight and texture on the palate, along with notions tus LLC. Cellar Selection. —J.C. 90 for approximately half of the production of toasted nuts and grilled fruit (melon and pine- abv: 14% Price: $140 of Condrieu, so it is important that the firm’s en- apple). Ready to drink now. Good Company Wines. try-level bottling--the wine most consumers will —J.C. Michel & Stéphane Ogier 2011 Les Vieilles Vi- initially be exposed to--is of high quality. Thank- abv: 14% Price: $40 93 gnes de Jacques Vernay (Condrieu). A terrific fully, the 2010 exhibits knockout Viognier aromas effort, this wine highlights the features that make of flowers and spice backed by flavors of apricot and E. Guigal 2011 Saint-Joseph. This blend of Condrieu special. First is the incredible perfume, nasturtium blossom. The wine is viscous without 90 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne offers like honeyed stone fruit and mango. Second is the being heavy, its richly textured finish leavened by a modest pineapple and melon aromas and flavors. richness and texture of the wine, imparting great dash of white pepper. Drink it over the next year or Yet it’s a mouthfilling wine with ample weight and palate presence. Third is the vibrance of the finish, so. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. a long finish that would ably partner poultry or rich providing the counterweight to the wine’s ripeness abv: 14% Price: $65 seafood dishes. Vintus LLC. —J.C. and weight. Drink it over the next few years. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $37 abv: 13.5% Price: $120 Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Condrieu. Reason- 90 ably priced for Condrieu, this full-bodied, Les Vins de Vienne 2011 L’Élouède (Saint- Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine de Grands lushly textured example reveals subtle toast, hon- 90 Joseph). This full-bodied, creamy-textured 93 Amandiers (Condrieu). Jaboulet’s Condrieu ey and spice shadings on the nose. On the palate, wine—a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Rous- program takes a huge step forward with this re- touches of orange marmalade or apricot preserves sanne—boasts modest aromas and flavors of pine- lease, which artfully combines barrel fermentation come through, accented by white pepper and clove apple, citrus and honey. But it’s more about texture, and aging with just-ripe Viognier into a compelling and on the finish. Drink this over the next year. DHI and should be paired with food accordingly. Try it and cohesive whole. The toast and baking-spice Selections. —J.C. with salmon or fowl over the next year or two. DHI elements provide the right amount of restraint to abv: 14% Price: $55 Selections. —J.C. the tropical fruit notes, which then finish with tre- abv: 13.5% Price: $39 mendous, mouthwatering length. Drink now–2020. Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Archevêques Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. 90 (Condrieu). Honeyed but otherwise not —J.C. overly aromatic, this full-bodied, corpulent Con- CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE abv: 13.5% Price: $100 drieu still provides enjoyable drinking. The weighty notes of honeyed citrus linger on the finish, but Famille Perrin 2011 Château de Beaucastel Les Vins de Vienne 2011 Condrieu. Despite drink up over the next six months or so. DHI Selec- 93 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see 92 this wine’s ample weight and lush texture, tions. —J.C. page 5. it doesn’t come across as heavy. Instead, smooth abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 14% Price: $108 waves of luxuriously honeyed apricot flavors glide by, accented by hints of white pepper. Drink it M. Chapoutier 2011 Invitare (Condrieu). In Château Mont-Redon 2011 Châteauneuf-du- over the next year or two. DHI Selections. Editors’ 88 its flight, this medium-bodied wine was rel- 90 Pape. Weighty, warm and welcoming, this Choice. —J.C. atively restrained. While it delivers honeyed tropi- is an easy-to-like wine with surprisingly delicate abv: 14% Price: $73 cal and citrus fruits on the nose, the flavors are of aromas of citrus blossom, tangerine and pineapple. melon and citrus, which fade quickly on the finish. Citrus and honey flavors form the bulk of the rich Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Archevêques Terlato Wines International. —J.C. palate, lingering on the finish. Kobrand. —J.C. 92 (Condrieu). Despite showing a relatively abv: 13% Price: $82 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 dark straw hue, this wine is fresh and floral on the nose. The full-bodied palate is lushly textured, M. Chapoutier 2010 Invitare (Condrieu). This Domaine du Pegau 2011 Cuvée Réservée showing amply concentrated melon and apricot 88 is a ripe, tropical-fruit-laden Condrieu, one 89 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Pegau’s rare white fruit and a dusting of white pepper. Drink it over that’s full bodied yet not particularly rich in texture. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 60% Clairette, the next year or two. DHI Selections. —J.C. Banana, melon and apricot preserves abound, mak- 20% Grenache Blanc, 10% Roussanne and 10% abv: 14% Price: $99 ing it a mouthfilling but not overly complex wine. It Bourboulenc. Despite being full bodied and viscous finishes with a touch of alcoholic warmth, so drink on the palate, there’s no sense of heaviness—the E. Guigal 2011 La Doriane (Condrieu). Less it over the next few months. Terlato Wines Interna- wine’s aromas and flavors of barely ripe melon, an- 91 flamboyant than the 2010, this is still an ex- tional. —J.C. ise and honeyed citrus seem to float on the palate, cellent wine. It’s full bodied, rich and broad on the abv: 14% Price: $85 ending in a mouthwatering finish. Hand Picked Se- palate, delivering layers of honeyed apricot and cit- lections. —J.C. Jean-Luc Colombo 2010 Amour de Dieu abv: 14% Price: $70 86 (Condrieu). This full-bodied wine shows
38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Domaine la Mereuille 2011 Châteauneuf- now produces a range of wines from throughout the palate, adding cherries to the savory mix. Drink 89 du-Pape. This cleanly made blend of 50% the Rhône Valley. This is a very good wine, even if this mouthwatering wine over the next few years. Grenache Blanc, 25% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc it lacks the flamboyant aromatics and graceful el- Banks Channel. —J.C. and 5% Roussanne displays an exotic ginger note egance of the best Côte Rôties. It’s a chunky, berry- abv: 13% Price: $30 on the nose. Melon and citrus flavors dominate this and-espresso-inflected Syrah (with 5% Viognier) medium- to full-bodied wine that’s slightly creamy that seems a bit warm on the finish. Ready to drink. Vidal-Fleury 2010 Saint-Joseph. This is me- in texture. Shows good length and hints of wet stone Palm Bay International. —J.C. 87 dium-bodied, linearly constructed Saint- on the finish. Drink now. Good Company Wines. abv: 13.5% Price: $85 Joseph, with some vegetable-ash notes layered —J.C. over blackberries and cracked pepper. It’s crisp abv: 14% Price: $50 and mouthwatering on the finish. Try it as a bright SAINT-JOSEPH contrast to rich meat dishes over the next couple of years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C. CÔTES DU RHÔNE Les Vins de Vienne 2010 L’Arzelle (Saint- abv: 13% Price: $29 92 Joseph). A big step up from the 2009, the Domaine Roche-Audran 2011 César (Côtes du 2010 L’Arzelle is nuanced and silky. Pepper, porcini 92 Rhône). An oak-fermented blend of 90% and plum pudding scents grace the nose, while the HERMITAGE Grenache Blanc and 10% Viognier, this is a full- palate delivers dark fruit, black olive and espresso bodied, richly textured wine for drinking over the flavors that ease into a long finish. Drink now–2018. Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Chirats de Saint- near term. Nutty scents and flavors accent grilled DHI Selections. —J.C. 95 Christophe (Hermitage). This special wine peach and pineapple fruit, ending in a long, mouth- abv: 13.5% Price: $49 begins with stunning aromas of cedar, roasted watering finish. United Estates Wine Imports, Ltd. meat and ripe raspberries, then adds savory notes Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Cave de Tain 2010 Saint-Joseph. The North- of espresso and black olives to create a harmonious abv: 14% Price: $27 90 ern Rhône’s most important co-op’s 2010 blend of fruity and savory elements. It’s full bodied Saint-Joseph is impressive, offering complex beef yet supple, with a long, fruit-filled finish. Already Famille Perrin 2011 Coudoulet de Beaucastel and pepper aromas that merge seamlessly with enjoyable, it should age well for at least 10 years. 91 (Côtes du Rhône). For full review see page 7. swirls of tart cherry fruit and hints of oak. It’s DHI Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $49 mouthwatering and silky on the finish. Drink now– abv: 14% Price: $123 2017. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $33 Cave de Tain 2010 Gambert de Loche (Her- ROSÉ 94 mitage). This impressive offering is drawn Éric & Jöel Durand 2010 Les Coteaux (Saint- from the cooperative’s own domaine. It’s full bodied Domaine de Saint-Antoine 2013 Syrah Rosé 90 Joseph). The brothers are better known for and firm, with a chewy finish that demands cellar- 88 (Vin de Pays du Gard). Importer Bobby their Cornas, but this Saint-Joseph is a nice wine ing, but the complex aromas and flavors of cedar, Kacher has a knack for finding great value rosés as well. It combines notes of marinated beef, ripe cassis, roasted meat, licorice and cracked pepper- from the south of France, and this is a top example. blackberries and espresso in a medium- to full-bod- corns are compelling even now. Perfecta Wine Co. Among Rhône Valley vignerons, the Gard, which ied wine that’s mouthwatering and easy to drink. Cellar Selection. —J.C. lies on the western side of France’s Rhône River, is Try it now and over the next several years. Fruit of abv: 13.5% Price: $140 known for its Syrah, so it’s no surprise this is 100% the Vines, Inc. —J.C. Syrah, produced by the saignée method of “bleed- abv: 14% Price: $39 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2010 Ermitage (Her- ing” a portion of the juice off the skins after a short 94 mitage). For full review see page 4. Cellar maceration. The result is a medium- to full-bodied Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Archevêques Selection. rosé with plenty of ripe red fruit, a hint of crushed 89 (Saint-Joseph). Perhaps this rating will abv: 13.5% Price: $100 stone and enough citrusy zip to impart freshness seem conservative in time, but for now this wine and length. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. shows a bit too much oak-derived toast and vanilla, M. Chapoutier 2010 Monier de la Sizeranne —J.C. giving it an air of superficial attractiveness. Cracked 93 (Hermitage). Perhaps the best Sizeranne abv: 13% Price: $12 pepper, cassis and mixed berries mingle easily on I’ve ever tasted, the 2010 displays extra levels of the palate, but seem to fade on the finish. Drink richness and structure. Plum and coffee-bean notes now, or hold another 4–5 years and see what direc- are lightened and brightened by hints of cherries RHÔNE tion things go. DHI Selections. —J.C. and raspberries that linger easily on the velvety fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $59 ish. Delicious already, it should continue to drink RED WINES well through at least 2020. Terlato Wines Interna- E. Guigal 2010 Saint-Joseph. Guigal’s regular tional. Cellar Selection. —J.C. CÔTE RÔTIE 88 Saint-Joseph is very good in 2010, combin- abv: 14% Price: $135 ing crisp blackberry and plum notes with savory Michel & Stéphane Ogier 2010 Côte Rôtie. elements reminiscent of black olive, roasting meat Cave de Tain 2010 Epsilon (Hermitage). To 92 This is a pretty, elegant Côte Rôtie, only me- and peppery spice. It’s reasonably full bodied, yet 92 me, this luxury cuvée loses a bit of its iden- dium in body, but with a lovely silky texture and a finishes crisp and clean, with just a whisper of dusty tity to oak and ripeness while remaining an excel- tart, lingering finish. Herbal aromas suggest green tannins. Drink it now and over the next several lent red wine. Delicious? You bet. It’s dark and in- olives, and there’s a hint of bacon smoke to go with years. Vintus LLC. —J.C. tense, marked by the vanilla and cedar notes that flavors of tart raspberries and cherries. Drink now– abv: 13.5% Price: $35 overlay cherry and cracked pepper. The tannins are 2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. supple to the point of creaminess, creating a lush, abv: 13% Price: $138 Duvernay 2010 Saint-Joseph. This is a crisp, soft mouthfeel. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. 87 medium-bodied example of Saint-Joseph. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Jean-Luc Colombo 2010 La Divine (Côte Aromas of creosote, black olives and roasting meat 88 Rôtie). Colombo is based in Cornas, but receive an infusion of brighter, fruitier flavors on
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Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 La Petite Chapelle Romane, this is a velvety-textured wine, with lively bit of freshness that would’ve taken it to the next 90 (Hermitage). The 2010 La Petite Chapelle notes of peppery spice enlivening the core elements level. Stewed plums, black olives and espresso notes is firmly structured and tannic, but presents at- of black cherry, plum and licorice. Already drinking are rich and complex, ending on a long silky note. tractive aromas of earth, roasted meat and cedar, well now, it should continue to please through at Drink now and over the next few years. The Sorting rounded out by savory flavors of black olive and least 2018. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. Table. —J.C. espresso. Give it another couple of years in the cel- —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $41 lar. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $145 Ogier 2010 Oratorio (Gigondas). This large, Sélection Laurence Féraud 2007 Lot #2 (Gigo- 88 well-known firm has put together a firm, 91 ndas). It’s a treat to be able to purchase ma- medium-bodied Gigondas, aged in 600-liter demi- CORNAS ture bottles of Gigondas like this one, packed with muids. Leather and garrigue mark the black cherry savory elements of smoked tapenade and roasted fruit, which picks up hints of mocha and black olive Maison Nicolas Perrin 2010 Cornas. For full meat. It’s full bodied and intense yet velvety in tex- on the slightly dusty finish. Drink now–2018. Ad- 92 review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. ture, with a long finish. Drink now through 2017. vini USA. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $57 Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 abv: 14% Price: $40 M. Chapoutier 2010 Les Arènes (Cornas). A 91 hint of cedar accents aromas of black olive Tardieu-Laurent 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Gigon- CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE and plum, while the flavors manage to blend those 91 das). Although this wine starts off a bit stern elements into a harmonious, savory package before in texture, by the long finish those tannins have Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine de Terre ending on a lengthy espresso note. This finely tex- turned velvety and plush, nicely framing intense 93 Ferme (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). A terrific tured Cornas may be tough to come by, as only 60 black olive, espresso, cherry and plum flavors. Drink effort, the 2010 Terre Ferme is a full-bodied, vel- six packs were imported. Drink now–2020. Terlato now–2018. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. vety-textured wine with a long, multidimensional Wines International. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 finish. It’s pungent and savory upfront in its aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $72 of clove and allspice, but raspberry undertones add Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Terrasses de Mont- another layer of interest and those grace notes are Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine de Saint 90 mirail (Gigondas). Always one of the stal- all underscored by the powerful bass duo of black 90 Pierre (Cornas). The oak influence has been warts of the Jaume stable, Terrasses seems more olive and espresso. Drink now–2025. Frederick trimmed back at Jaboulet in recent vintages, and fruit-driven than usual in 2010, yielding almost Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. this wine shows only traces of menthol and cedar. jammy notions of black cherries and plums. It’s me- abv: 15% Price: $100 Cracked peppercorns and red cherries form the core dium to full in body, with enough dusty tannins on aromas and flavors of this medium-bodied but long the finish to support another four or five years’ of Domaine du Vieux Lazaret 2007 Nolandra and mouthwatering wine. Approachable now, but it cellaring. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 91 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This luxury cuvée should age well for at least 10 years. Frederick Wild- abv: 15% Price: $33 rides close to the edge of being too ripe for its own man & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. good. It’s full bodied and rich, boasting flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $130 Domaine du Grand Montmirail 2010 Cuvée prune, chocolate and espresso framed by hints of 90 Vieilles Vignes (Gigondas). Dried thyme toast and vanilla. The texture is supple, turning vel- and bay leaves impart a welcome herbal element vety on the finish, which makes it accessible now. GIGONDAS to this wine’s dark fruit. Hints of espresso, roasted Drink it over the next few years. David Milligan Se- meat and black olive help flesh out this slightly firm, lections. —J.C. Château du Trignon 2007 Alwenn (Gigon- linear blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% abv: 14.5% Price: $125 93 das). It’s a shame quantities of this wine are Mourvèdre. With its crisp, dusty finish and admi- so minuscule (20 cases imported), because it shows rable concentration, it look capable of aging through Domaine la Mereuille 2010 Les Baptaurels the enormous potential of the appellation and pro- 2020. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C. 91 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Herbal accents of ducer. Intense aromas of smoke, espresso and black abv: 14.5% Price: $NA thyme and rhubarb and a dash of pomegranate mo- olive lead to a palate that’s full bodied and creamy lasses give this dark-fruited wine an exotic edge, al- in texture. There’s some oak influence, but the notes Lavau 2010 Gigondas. Full-bodied and though it finishes with hints of creosote and espres- of vanilla, cinnamon and clove are just an accent to 90 richly textured, this is a heavyweight blend so. It’s full-bodied and supple in texture, making for the harmonious whole. Drink now–2020. David of 50% Grenace, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. a wine that should drink well through 2025. Good Milligan Selections. —J.C. Hickory smoke and rosemary shadings accent plum- Company Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 my fruit, finishing long and slightly chewy. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $80 now–2018. Misa Imports. —J.C. Pierre Amadieu 2010 Domaine Grand Ro- abv: 14% Price: $42 Domaine la Mereuille 2008 Châteauneuf- 92 mane Cuvée Prestige (Gigondas). One of 86 du-Pape. Already mature, this medium- Amadieu’s top wines, this is a full-bodied, richly Château du Trignon 2009 Gigondas. This bodied wine offers scents of dried fruit and leather, textured Gigondas that nevertheless maintains a 89 is a supple, medium- to full-bodied red for then flavors of caramelized, roasted black cherries sense of precision in its assertive herb-laced notes drinking over the next few years. The plummy fla- and more leather. It’s a bit coarsely textured, then of plum and espresso. Cracked pepper plays a role, vors are a bit earthy, dark and indistinct, but pleas- falls away on the finish. Drink soon. Good Company too, adding focus to the long, silky finish. Drink ant enough, and the wine’s silky finish features a Wines. —J.C. now–2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. bright burst of red fruit. David Milligan Selections. abv: 14% Price: $50 —J.C. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $33
Pierre Amadieu 2010 Romane Machotte Dauvergne & Ranvier 2010 Vin Rare (Gigon- 91 (Gigondas). Like Amadieu’s Domaine Grande 89 das). This full-bodied wine just lacks that
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 bodied for an offering from Costières de Nîmes, this Clerget 2012 Pont du Rhône (Côtes du LIRAC 50-50 blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre offers slightly 84 Rhône). Red fruits dominate this wine, tarry, dark fruit aromas and ample plummy, meaty which features medium body and minimal tannin. Domaine de la Mordorée 2010 La Reine des flavors. The vaguely velvety texture lingers on the A hint of nail polish intrudes on the nose of cher- 93 Bois (Lirac). Roughly equal parts Grenache, licorice-tinged finish. Robert Kacher Selections. ries and red raspberries, but the wine finishes with Syrah and Mourvèdre, this is probably Lirac’s top —J.C. a fine, silky feel. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —J.C. wine at the moment. It’s big and rich in the mouth, abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 leaving behind a coating of dark fruit, hints of meaty savoriness, baking spices and softly layered wood. Mas des Bressades 2011 Cuvée Tradition L. Tramier & Fils 2012 Linteau (Côtes du Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 90 (Costières de Nîmes). This medium-weight 84 Rhône). This blend of 70% Grenache and abv: 14.5% Price: $43 50-50 blend of Syrah and Grenache is pretty typi- 30% Syrah is a chunky, slightly rustic style of cal of the appellation, but much better than average Côtes-du-Rhône. It starts off with tar and herb aro- Christian Leperchois 2010 Lunar Apogé Made in quality. Bold black cherry notes are balanced by mas, then turns plummy and chocolaty on the pal- 91 with Organic Grapes (Lirac). This is a bit hints of dark chocolate and a silky texture lingers on ate. Drink now–2017. Luxe Wines & Spirits. —J.C. rustic, but in a very good way, offering vast com- the mouthwatering finish. Drink now–2018. Robert abv: 14.5% Price: $13 plexity in a biodynamically produced blend that’s Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 25% Mourvèdre. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Tack-room aromas of leather and liniment combine OTHER RED WINES with pepper and clove scents on the nose, while Tortoise Creek 2011 Le Charmel Syrah-Gre- the palate adds just enough cherry fruit and supple 89 nache (Costières de Nîmes). For full review Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Heluicum (Collines plushness to make it easy to drink. Drink it over the see page 12. Best Buy. 91 Rhôdaniennes). Charming raspberry aromas next year or two. The Artisan Collection. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $12 intertwine with scents of green herbs and smoke, Choice. —J.C. then pick up hints of espresso. This medium-bodied abv: 13% Price: $26 Château de Nages 2011 Buti Nages (Costières Syrah ends with pretty berry shadings and a silky 88 de Nîmes). A juicy, fruit-forward blend of texture. Drink now and over the next several years. Domaine Coudoulis 2010 Lirac. This is a fairly 45% Syrah, 45% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, DHI Selections. —J.C. 91 big, muscular Lirac, marked by some dusty this unoaked offering bursts with cherry and berry abv: 13% Price: $47 tannins on the finish, but there’s fruit to match, aromas and flavors. It’s medium in body, with just with plenty of intense plum and black cherry ac- the right dry edge to partner burgers or pizza on Michel & Stéphane Ogier 2010 L’Âme Soeur cented by baking spices and mocha shadings. Drink a busy weeknight. Drink it over the next couple of 91 Syrah (Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodani- it over the next 5–8 years. Frank-Lin International. years. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —J.C. ennes). It’s pricey for a Vin de Pays, but it’s basi- —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $10 cally a baby Côte Rôtie, made from Syrah grown on abv: 14.5% Price: $20 steep slopes in the Northern Rhône. Raspberry aro- mas blend with hints of cracked pepper and a hint Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Roquedon (Lirac). CÔTES DU RHÔNE of hickory-smoked bacon, while the palate adds fla- 89 This is a bit plummy and stewed on the vors of espresso and black olive to the mix. Silky nose, but shows more life on the palate, where some Louis Bernard 2012 Domaine le Garrigon and long on the finish. Drink now–2018, and pos- chewy tannins provide backbone and richness. 89 Cuvée des Vieux Truffiers (Côtes du Rhône). sibly beyond. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. Powdered cinnamon and cocoa notes mark the long Drink this effusively scented, supple wine over the abv: 12.5% Price: $87 finish. Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. next few years for its bold notes of garrigue and abv: 15% Price: $22 buoyant berry flavors. It’s almost creamy in texture, with a reasonably long finish for the modest tariff. SPAIN Château de Ségriès 2010 Cuvée Réservée Boisset Family Estates. Best Buy. —J.C. 86 (Lirac). A hint of nail polish or paint thin- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 WHITE WINES ner prevents this wine from scoring higher. It’s full- bodied, with ample dark fruit, but that slight off La Coterie 2012 Côtes du Rhône. Thyme, bay RÍAS BAIXAS note strips some of the texture from the midpalate. 87 and lavender aromas provide strong regional The finish is warm, with a hint of black licorice. Ky- character to this wine, a blend of 70% Grenache, Adegas Gran Vinum 2012 Gran Vinum Selec- sela Père et Fils. —J.C. 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan. Mixed berries form 90 ción Especial Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is abv: 14.5% Price: $23 the core of this supple wine, which should be con- a particular style of Albariño. Aromas of white flow- sumed over the next couple of years. Cutting Edge ers distant mineral and green melon set up a plump, Selections. —J.C. layered palate, with core acidity but also flatness COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES abv: 13.5% Price: $13 that will only increase the longer it goes. Flavors of nectarine, orange and melon register as citric but Château de Nages 2011 JT (Costières de Louis Bernard 2012 Château Noël Saint Lau- also creamy. This is a unique Galician white that’s 90 Nîmes). This blend of 88% Syrah and 12% 87 rent (Côtes du Rhône). Splash this around stylish but won’t last forever; drink immediately. Mourvèdre is crisp, crunchy and direct, delivering while pouring to help dissipate some reductive Grapes of Spain. —M.S. brambly, blackberry fruit spiced with a touch of notes and reveal pleasant raspberry and herbal aro- abv: 12.5% Price: $27 licorice. This is tart and firm without being par- mas. It’s medium in body, with a welcoming supple- ticularly tannic, so enjoy it over the next few years. ness to the texture and a silky feel on the finish, Finca Arantei 2013 Single Vineyard Albariño Total Wine & More. —J.C. which folds in hints of mocha. Boisset Family Es- 90 (Rías Baixas). This is ideal Albariño. The abv: 13.5% Price: $20 tates. Best Buy. —J.C. nose is floral, with attractive peach and melon aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 mas. In the mouth, it’s round but shows citric cut in Mas Carlot 2011 Les Enfants Terribles the middle. Flavors of nectarine, apple and orange 90 (Costières de Nîmes). Fairly rich and full-
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are juicy and citrusy overall, but not sharp or the with minerality, hence the name, which is Catalan least bit sour. Winebow. —M.S. NAVARRA for limestone. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Ochoa 2013 Estate Bottled Viura-Chardon- Terras de Lantaño 2013 Albariño (Rías Baix- 85 nay (Navarra). Floral aromas and tropical Parés Baltà 2013 Blanc de Pacs Organic Farm- 89 as). Dusty apple, melon and saline aromas scents are a touch heavy and oily. This blend of 86 ing Parellada-Xarello-Macabeu (Penedès). are nice but not too intense or exact. This is tight Viura and Chardonnay is citrusy in the mouth, with Floral aromas are airy and fun. This is lean, bright and juicy but textured on the palate, with nectar- little variation on that theme. Tangerine, orange and and high in acid. Flavors of stony lime and white ine, peach and saline flavors. A round feeling fin- tart nectarine flavors finish bright and juicy. Fron- pineapple finish minerally and fresh, with a light, ish offers up minerality and length. Estelle Imports. tier Wine Imports. —M.S. long, acid-driven finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Vega Sindoa 2013 Viura-Chardonnay (Navar- Viña Cartín 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). 84 ra). Slightly nutty aromas are not terribly 89 This is a nice value-priced Albariño, with a exciting, but in the mouth this is better; it’s fresh, OTHER WHITE WINES minerally nose also offers aromas of melon, apple with a proper acid-to-body ratio. Flavors of dry and peach. The palate is citrusy in feel, with lemony apple and nectarine finish mildly bitter, with a dis- Raúl Pérez 2011 Ultreia La Claudina Godello acids. Citrus and stone-fruit flavors finish stony and tinct note of almond skins. This is 75% Viura and 89 (Bierzo). This opens with barrel-based aro- crisp, with a final blast of lemon. Estelle Imports. 25% Chardonnay. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. mas of resin and spice. It’s round, creamy and Bur- Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9 gundian on the palate, with flavors of spiced apple, abv: 12.5% Price: $14 walnut and a hint of oxidation. Things flatten on Vega Sindoa 2012 Viura-Chardonnay (Navar- the finish, which tastes yeasty and like toffee. Ole Licia 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Oceanic 82 ra). With a tan tint and aromas of banana, Imports. —M.S. 88 notes, white pepper, minerally whiffs and undefined stone fruits and slight chemical, this is abv: 13.5% Price: $62 generic white-fruit aromas control the bouquet on not all that inviting. The palate is on the flat side, this zesty Albariño. Minerally flavors of peach and while pithy flavors of melon and citrus finish with Bodegas Ontañón 2012 Vetiver Vendimia nectarine come with a saline note, while the finish a bitter note of almond skins. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- 88 Viura (Rioja). If oaky whites are your thing, is firm and bright. Winebow. —M.S. tions. —M.S. this barrel-aged Viura is a good choice. Waxy, floral abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $9 aromas of gardenia, lilly, cured ham and resiny oak play against white-fruit scents. The palate is not Lagar de Indra 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Castillo de Monjardin 2013 El Cerezo Unoaked blowsy or resiny, while woody flavors of spice and 87 Saline, seashell and generic white-fruit aro- 81 Chardonnay (Navarra). Saline and nettle aro- white pepper accent core flavors of peach and baked mas are good. This feels full, with a plump texture. mas are a lot like underripe Sauvignon Blanc. This is apple. Gabriel Wilson Selections. —M.S. Flavors of nectarine and peach are salty but true a sour, cutting wine with flavors of lime, grapefruit abv: 13% Price: $14 to the region and variety, while the finish is round and underripe passion fruit. The finish is overly in feel, with modest citric acidity. Assa Imports. acidic and citric. Winebow. —M.S. Castelo do Papa 2013 Godello (Valdeorras). —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 88 With clean aromas of wet stone and grape- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 fruit blossom, this bright, slightly pulpy Godello Vega Sindoa 2013 Chardonnay (Navarra). On delivers round grapefruit and nectarine flavors in Maior de Mendoza 2012 3 Crianzas Albariño 81 the nose, this is gaseous and mealy smelling, front of a powerful, peachy, melony finish with kick. 86 (Rías Baixas). Aromas of citrus and stone and the palate is flat, with flavors of pithy, bitter This is no wallflower white. Match with grilled fish. fruits feed into a clunky, high-acid palate that’s white fruits. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. Ole Imports. —M.S. pithy and citric in feel. Flavors of orange juice, tan- abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 gerine and pineapple create citrus overload, while the finish is even more citrusy. M Imports, LLC. Bohigas 2013 Xarel-lo (Catalunya). Lime and —M.S. PENEDÈS 87 grapefruit aromas are tight and come with a abv: 12.5% Price: $36 touch of edgy harshness. The palate shows bright Parés Baltà 2010 Electio Microcuvée Xarel- acidity and is clean as a whole. Mixed citrus flavors Lo Nuevo 2012 Covello Albariño (Rías Baix- 88 lo (Penedès). With its gold color and waxy are straightforward, and so is the finish. Polaner Se- 84 as). Peach and apple aromas are fruity but aromas of baked apple and butterscotch, this small- lections. Best Buy. —M.S. not precise or minerally. This has peachy acidity but production (190 cases) Xarel-lo is a breed unto abv: 12% Price: $12 a wide, unfocused palate. Flavors of peach and nec- its own. The palate is creamy and leesy, but bal- tarine are tasty but lack the crispness that Albariño anced for the most part. Lightly oxidized flavors of Ànima Negra 2013 Quíbia Falanis (Vi de la is known for. Vintage Point. —M.S. caramel, baked pear and apple cider finish mellow 86 Terra Mallorca). This funky white from the abv: 12% Price: $15 and buttery. Drink this odd but unique wine now. island of Mallorca is 50% Premsal and 50% Cal- Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. let, and if you’ve never heard of those grapes you’re Serra da Estrela 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). abv: 13% Price: $56 not alone. The nose is a bit harsh and strange, while 83 Wheaty, flat aromas are indicators that this the palate is on the flat side. Flavors of ham, pithy is losing its luster. The palate is chunky, with melon, Parés Baltà 2013 Calcari Xarel-lo (Penedès). citrus and nectarine finish jumbled. This is more of mango and canned peach flavors. Best to wait for a 87 There’s a briny note to the nose on this a unique oddity than great white wine. Winebow. newer vintage. Palm Bay International. —M.S. Xarel-lo, and otherwise not a lot of fruit besides a —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 hint of nectarine. The palate brings bright acidity, abv: 12.5% Price: $16 while lime, tangerine and nectarine flavors finish Hedonismo 2012 Blanco (Vino de la Tierra de 86 Castilla). Mild, innocuous aromas of white
42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 fruits are pleasant but undefined. This feels round flower. The palate is smooth, while flavors of citrus, and benefits from acidic lift, while flavors of orange SPARKLING WINES apple and mango come with green-herb notes that and nectarine finish in a friendly manner. This is carry onto the finish in the form of tarragon and mostly Viura with some Verdejo and Sauvignon Castellroig 2009 Sabaté I Coca Reserva Fa- thyme. Winebow. —M.S. Blanc. Terraneo Merchants. Best Buy. —M.S. 91 miliar (Cava). Toasty popcorn aromas are abv: 12% Price: $33 abv: 13% Price: $10 pitched against dry white-fruit scents. This has a good, pure feel to the palate, while flavors of bright Pere Ventura NV Tresor Reserva Brut (Cava). Pagos del Galir 2012 Godello (Valdeorras). apple, lime, white grapefruit and ocean brine finish 88 Toasty smelling at first, then this gets more 86 Apple, lettuce and celery aromas are a bit crisp and mildly salty. This is a complex brut nature gritty, stalky and sulfuric on the nose. On the palate, hard and green. This is plump and solid in feel, with made entirely from Xarel-lo. 250 cases made. Regal this is bubbly, foamy and heady, with yeasty flavors orange, grapefruit and generic minerality. A citrusy Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. of bread, apple, nectarine and citrus. The finish is finish confirms the wine’s fruity status. Vinaio -Im abv: 12% Price: $65 round and fluffy. Palm Bay International. —M.S. ports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Castellroig 2009 Gran Reserva Brut Nature 90 (Cava). Toasty aromas include popcorn, Parés Baltà 2009 Blanca Cusine Gran Reserva Dominio de Eguren 2012 Protocolo (Vino de scrambled egg and briny white fruits. There’s 87 Brut Nature (Cava). This is golden-tan in 85 la Tierra de Castilla). This quaffable white smoothness to the ripe palate, while apple, peach color. The nose is gaseous and smells of ham and blend opens with minerally vitamin-like aromas and citrus flavors—the Big Three of cava—finish yeast. The palate is distinctly foamy, while flavors of along with touches of peach pit and apple. The pal- fruity and with stuffing. This is a ripe winner that’s briny apple finish mild yet heavy. Broadbent Selec- ate is good in a generic way, while apple, pear, melon richer and more flavorful than your average brut na- tions, Inc. —M.S. and mild spice flavors finish exactly the same. Jorge ture. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $40 Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $35 abv: 12% Price: $7 Pere Ventura 2011 Cupatge d’Honor Brut Alta Alella 2011 Privat Reserva Brut Nature 87 (Cava). Lightly pickled, briny aromas are Coto de Hayas 2013 Chardonnay (Campo de 89 (Cava). Dusty apple and a hint of scrambled distant. In the mouth, this feels pinched and high 84 Borja). Mild aromas of apple and generic egg define the nose on this brut nature. As you’d ex- in citric acid, but also refined. Flavors of grapefruit white fruits are friendly enough. This has a mono- pect given the lack of dosage, this is citric and linear and passion fruit are tart, while lime and tangerine tone citrusy mouthfeel and flavors of tangerine and in the mouth, with stony lime and green-apple fla- flavors are prominent on a briny, tart finish. Palm grapefruit. A bit of stalky corn and hay flavor rises vors. The finish is refined, clean and lemony, with Bay International. —M.S. up on the finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. green-herb flavors. Palateur Imports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 12% Price: $21 Vins El Cep 2011 Kila (Cava). Dusty apple, Quinta da Muradella 2010 Gorvia Doña Freixenet 2009 Vintage Reserva (Cava). 87 spice and tropical fruit aromas feed into a 84 Blanca (Monterrei). Nutty aromas break up 89 This is a serious Cava for the money. It’s mellow palate that isn’t terribly acidic or cutting. and lose cleanliness with airing. This is a wine in mildly briny and dusty up front, with peach and Nectarine, passion fruit and mango flavors finish decline; it’s mealy and fairly woody, with not a lot apple notes filling out the nose. The palate is el- ripe and friendly, with residual sweetness and trop- happening. At moments it hints at mature quality egant and smooth enough, while apple and melon ical fruit flavors. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. but mostly it lacks steam. Ole Imports. —M.S. flavors are naturally spicy and ripe given the warm abv: 11.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $53 conditions of the ’09 vintage. The long, nectarine- flavored finish will win you over. Freixenet USA. Luna Beberide 2013 Godello (Bierzo). Floral, Best Buy. —M.S. SPAIN 83 dusty aromas are encouraging, but this is abv: 12% Price: $14 overly citric and aggressive on the palate. Lemon, RED WINES underripe stone fruit and minerally flavors turn tart Juvé y Camps 2009 Brut Nature Gran Reserva and pithy on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 89 Reserva de la Familia (Cava). Leesy, bready BIERZO abv: 13.5% Price: $21 aromas are ripe and fruity. This is soft in feel and a touch heavy, which may be a reflection of the warm Luna Beberide 2012 Mencía (Bierzo). Direct Las Valles 2012 Viura-Chardonnay (Cariñena). 2009 vintage. Nectarine and other ripe flavors fin- 89 berry fruit aromas are firm and tight. This 81 Chemical notes sit atop aromas of peach pit ish full and sweet. This almost tastes like a brut feels ripped, honest and authentic, but ultimately and green banana. This is narrow in the mouth, Cava despite being a brut nature. Winebow. —M.S. approachable and uncomplicated. Black fruit, with mealy melon and tropical fruit flavors. A abv: 12% Price: $16 raw oak and licorice flavors precede a woody and peachy finish lacks finesse and more. Hand Picked weighty yet fresh and clean finish. Grapes of Spain. Selections. —M.S. Raventós I Blanc 2011 Conca del Riu Anoia —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9 89 Barcelona L’hereu (Spain). Toasty, oaky aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 mas of popcorn and modest fruits set up an elegant Enate 2013 234 Chardonnay (Somonta- feeling palate with a mild but present bubble bead. El Pájaro Rojo 2012 Mencía (Bierzo). Dark 80 no). Sweet melon and peach aromas are Apple, nectarine and citrus flavors finish long and 88 fruit, lemony oak and gutsy plum aromas sit candied. In the mouth, this is awkward, fizzy and pure, with a dry, citrusy feel. Valkyrie Selections. in front of a textured, fairly full-bodied palate, with cloying. The flavor profile has little positive to -of —M.S. a couple of layers on offer. Dry, woody, spicy notes fer, while the finish turns bitter and grassy tasting. abv: 12% Price: $24 accent core dark-berry flavors, while the finish is Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. fresh, snappy and oaky. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 Juvé y Camps 2011 Blanc de Noirs Brut Reser- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 88 va Pinot Noir (Cava). Despite its high price tag, this Pinot Noir-based blanc de noirs is straight- Pago de Valdetruchas 2012 La Muria Mencía forward on the nose, with hints of apple and wild 86 (Bierzo). Minerally raspberry and cherry
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aromas come with a touch of latex and rubber. This a monster if you will. Flavors of sweet black fruits not overly deep or structured. Drink through 2019. is lively and scratchy on the palate, with spicy, oaky, are stalky in nature, while prune, blackberry and Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. peppery flavors of red-berry fruits that lead to a dry, herbal flavors drive the finish. Matarromera USA, abv: 15% Price: $60 juicy finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Matarromera 2010 Reserva (Ribera del Du- 92 ero). Balsam wood, coconut, tobacco and Godelia 2012 Viernes Mencía (Bierzo). black-fruit aromas feed into a lush, easygoing palate 83 Jumpy, young aromas of wet dog, plum, RIBERA DEL DUERO with smooth tannins and lots of weight. This is ripe cherry and beet root set up a racy, high-acid palate. in raisin and prune flavors along with savory berry, This tastes like medicinal raspberry and red plum, Astrales 2010 Ribera del Duero. For full re- cumin and baking spice notes. A chunky finish de- while the finish is light, scouring and fresh, with no 96 view see page 3. Editors’ Choice. livers chocolate and tobacco flavors but not much oak character. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 bite or structure. Drink through 2019. Matarromera abv: 14% Price: $13 USA, Inc. —M.S. Cepa 21 2010 Malabrigo (Ribera del Duero). abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Ribera de Ulver 2007 Crianza Mencía (Bier- 95 Aromas of spiced berry, coffee and bal- 82 zo). Earthy, mealy aromas don’t bring much sam wood start slow and pick up intensity. This Cepa 21 2009 C21 (Ribera del Duero). Roasted freshness to the nose. This is acidic and sharp on is powerful but focused from front to back, with 91 black-fruit, horsehide and rubbery aromas the palate, while flavors of sour plum and raspberry hard but honest tannins that will soften with time. filter onto a tannic palate with all sorts of fruit ex- finish scouring. Spain Wine Collection. —M.S. Pure, potent flavors of cherry, berry and chocolate tract and pulp for support. This is a rich, ripe wine abv: 14.5% Price: $16 come with tons of spicy, peppery oak and all sorts from a warm vintage with tons of berry power, oak, of textural depth. Drink from 2015–2028. Michael herbal notes, tobacco and prune on the flavor pro- Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. file. The finish is ripe, with spice and licorice fla- TORO abv: 14.5% Price: $90 vors. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 Campo Eliseo 2009 Toro. Hailing from a Emilio Moro 2010 Malleolus (Ribera del Du- 95 warm region and a warm vintage, this is dis- 94 ero). Deep berry aromas blend with sweet, Dominio de Atauta 2009 La Mala (Ribera del playing maximum ripeness on the nose via raisin, creamy, spicy oak notes on the nose of this cellar- 91 Duero). Lactic, creamy oak brings overt aro- prune, blackberry and fig aromas. In the mouth, this worthy bruiser, which is live-wire, energetic and mas of vanilla, shoe polish and graphite along with is loamy, chewy, a mile deep and rich as Bill Gates. holding a lot in reserve. A full allotment of oak-driv- Ribera del Duero’s requisite black-fruit scents. Concentrated black cherry, blackberry, cassis, choc- en flavors include coffee, mocha, pepper, baked ber- This is jammy and heavy on the palate, with hard olate and mocha flavors conclude with baked notes, ry and chocolate. On the finish, it’s huge and tastes tannins. Flavors of blackened, spicy berry fruits, licorice and tobacco. So smooth, yet bullish. Drink of toast, medicinal berry and chocolate-drenched espresso, bitter chocolate and stewed blackberry through 2022. Diageo Chateau & Estates. Editors’ cherries. Drink from 2015–2025. Michael Skurnik finish gritty and with flavors of prune, licorice and Choice. —M.S. Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. mocha. Best from 2015 through 2021. Aviva Vino. abv: 15% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $140 Maurodos 2010 San Román (Toro). For full García Figuero 2010 Tinus (Ribera del Du- 94 review see page 4. Cellar Selection. 94 ero). Ripe, muscular aromas of forest floor, Arrocal 2009 Selección (Ribera del Duero). abv: 14.5% Price: $70 blackberry, cassis and violet are stunningly attrac- 90 Loamy, ripe, earthy aromas of black cherry tive. This is showing vise-grip tannins in support of suggest raisin and stewed berry. The palate is full Muruve 2009 Reserva (Toro). This ripe, blackberry, licorice, mocha and woodspice flavors. and mostly balanced for a warm-vintage, very ripe 93 modern red shows all the positives of Toro Café mocha and an oaky, creamy note of toffee work wine such as this. Flavors of berry, roasted plum and and the 2009 vintage. Lusty, exuberant aromas of the finish on this well-structured wine that should earth finish with raisiny richness and just enough black fruits, vanilla and pipe tobacco are highly ap- be drunk from 2015–2025. Quintessential Wines. zesty acidity to keep things upright and afloat. Drink pealing, while the palate is muscular and tannic yet Cellar Selection. —M.S. through 2018. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. balanced. Blackberry, cassis, chocolate and lemon abv: 14.5% Price: $300 abv: 14% Price: $42 flavors finish firm and bold. Drink through 2020. United Cellars, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Montecastro 2010 Alconte Crianza (Ribera Finca La Mata 2011 Ribera del Duero. For full abv: 14.5% Price: $21 93 del Duero). Start packing your cellar with 90 review see page 9. 2010 Ribera gems like this wine, which is offering abv: 14% Price: $22 Bodega Carmen Rodríguez 2009 Carodo- graphite and minerally plum and berry aromas in 92 rum Issos (Toro). Inviting aromas of balsam front of a full-bodied, hard-driving palate. Ripe, O. Fournier 2009 Spiga (Ribera del Duero). wood, pipe tobacco and black fruits are lusty and extracted blackberry and lightly herbal flavors fin- 90 Earthy, damp aromas suggest compost but deep. This is big and drawing on the palate, with ish with tons of residual weight and tannins. This there’s enough fresh black-fruit character to keep ribald flavors of blackberry, licorice, chocolate and is loud, burly and delicious; drink from 2016–2030. the bouquet balanced. This feels dense, saturated mocha. A rich, chocolaty, oaky finish with controlled Classical Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. and heavy, with a syrupy leaning and full tannins. acidic kick and tannic bite confirm the wine’s power abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Flavors of baked blackberry and vanilla end a little and spirit. Drink through 2020. The Artisan Collec- stewy and soft. Drink through 2017. The Country tion. —M.S. Emina 2010 Atio (Ribera del Duero). This is a Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20 92 ripe, lush wine with aromas of raisin, black- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 berry, dried herbs and sandalwood. The mouthfeel Cyan 2010 Crianza (Toro). There are posi- is grand and wide, with big tannins and lemony Linaje Garsea 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Due- 87 tives and negatives to this tinta de toro. The acidity. Flavors of blackberry, fig, vanilla and choco- 89 ro). Concentrated, compact aromas of black nose is outright stalky and roasted, with a short- late are highly likeable, while the finish is rich but fruits are generous but also monotonous and low age of purity. The palate is huge and grossly tannic, on character. A big, bulky palate is round but offers
44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 enough acidic kick to keep everything above water. Conde de Siruela 2011 Roble (Ribera del Du- the nose. Monster tannins are absorbed by the Baked, flat flavors of black fruits and roasted meat 86 ero). Hickory, roasted black fruit, vanilla, wine’s broad foundation, while flavors of smoke, finish smooth but low on pulse. Drink through 2017. rubber and plastic aromas set up a big but balanced oak, plum and wild berry finish savory and long, Cuddihy Wine Importers. —M.S. feeling palate. Flavors of roasted blackberry are with a final shot of oak-based clove. Best from abv: 13% Price: $42 rubbery and come with oaky vanilla, while this feels 2018–2025. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selec- good on the finish with an overriding oak character tion. —M.S. Portia 2011 Ebeia de Bodegas Portia Roble in the driver’s seat. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65 89 (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page abv: 14% Price: $13 10. Artadi 2010 Pagos Viejos (Rioja). Intense abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Felix Callejo 2011 Flores de Callejo (Ribera 92 but classy aromas of berry fruits, mineral- 86 del Duero). This is black as night, concen- ity, vanilla and chocolate are milder and richer than Tierras Guindas 2011 Roble (Ribera del trated and shows aromas of asphalt, lemon peel the wine’s racy, structured, acid-rich palate. Flavors 89 Duero). A dark tint and ripe aromas of and blackberry. The palate is round and soft, with of blackberry come with a shock of bracing tart- blackberry, black plum and leather are appealing mellow tannins. The flavor profile is very ripe and ness, while oaky aftershocks offer up chocolate and and inviting. This is weighty and full-bodied, with focuses on prune and blackberry, while the finish is woodspice flavors. A zesty, firm, hard-driving finish blackberry, boysenberry and cassis flavors. There’s loamy in feel, with a licorice hint. The Artisan Col- brings a touch of sharpness. Drink through 2022. not a lot of nuance or complexity, but overall this is lection. —M.S. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.S. clean, tasty and generous. Elixir Wine Group. Best abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11 Vecordia 2011 Roble (Ribera del Duero). Aro- Artadi 2010 Viñas de Gain (Rioja). Everything 85 mas of rubber band, smoky berry and plum 91 about this highly functional Rioja is nice. The Pagos de Quintana 2009 Crianza (Ribera del come with herbal, rustic overtones. This feels grab- nose is fresh, minerally and shows complexities like 88 Duero). This is stalky and leathery smelling by and tannic, while punchy acidity releases angular cinnamon aromas and herbs. The palate is snappy at first, then black-fruit scents take over. The pal- black-fruit flavors. A roasted, meaty tasting finish and racy, but not shear or acidic. Flavors of plum, ate is racy and a touch tomatoey in terms of acidity, brings the heat and feels aggressive. Deutsch Family berry and oak are pure and bold, while the finish is while flavors of herbal fruits and acid-driven toma- Wine & Spirits. —M.S. dry, lightly toasted and shows minerality and coffee to finish racy in feel but stewed and herbal in flavor. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 notes. Drink through 2019. Folio Fine Wine Part- Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. ners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35 Bodegas Reyes 2011 Tamiz (Ribera del Due- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 83 ro). Animal hide and roasted, stalky aromas Bohórquez 2009 Cardela Crianza (Ribera del bring overall quality into question. This feels raw, Marqués de la Concordia 2010 Hacienda de 87 Duero). Ripe, oaky aromas settle on prune, choppy and drawing, while flavors of stalky berry 91 Susar (Rioja). Savory aromas of cumin and raisin and baked plum. As the nose indicates, this fruits are leathery and roasted. Hard tannins and clove are oak-based but nice, and there’s plenty of is a ripe, plump wine, although a shock of acidity green notes influence the finish. Spain Wine Col- black fruit and minerality in the background. This keeps it balanced. Flavors of creamy oak and vanilla lection. —M.S. feels round and right, while oaky notes of hickory transition to semitart plum and raspberry, while the abv: 14% Price: $16 and vanilla accent ripe, raisiny berry flavors. A mild, finish reverts to heavy and baked, both in flavor and easy finish with vanilla and herb notes closes this feel. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. Cruz 2011 Sagra (Ribera del Duero). Domi- out. Drink through 2022. The Haciendas-Company. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 82 nant aromas of char and rubber give way —M.S. to chocolaty oak and vanilla on what amounts to a abv: 15% Price: $40 Finca Torremilanos 2011 Monte Castrillo (Ri- confected, forced bouquet. This feels flush and oaky. 87 bera del Duero). Roasted berry and plum Flavors of creamy oak, vanilla, milk chocolate and Bodegas Bilbainas 2008 Viña Pomal Alto aromas come with lifting floral notes. The palate is herbal berry finish resiny and woody. Arctic Bever- 90 de la Caseta (Rioja). Excellent Rioja wines bright, racy and fueled by acidity, while flavors of age, LLC. —M.S. were few and far between in 2008, so this high-end black fruits, herbs and mint are more generic than abv: 13% Price: $11 offering deserves credit. Aromas of minerally black unique, but finish clean. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. fruits are piercing and show some alcohol. The pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 ate is condensed but vital, with ample richness. RIOJA Toasty, black flavors of licorice, blackberry and O. Fournier 2011 Urban Ribera (Ribera del Du- mocha finish with a blast of saline and burnt toast. 87 ero). Scratchy, edgy aromas of boysenberry Artadi 2010 Viña El Pison (Rioja). This sin- Drink through 2022. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. and blackberry are a touch minty and herbal. This 94 gle-vineyard Rioja is smooth, pure and el- abv: 14.5% Price: $80 feels big, loud and choppy, with plenty of kick and egant. Aromas of lemon peel, tobacco, cookie dough, hard tannins. Flavors of ripe dark fruits are toasty marzipan, spiced plum and cassis set up a lush, deep Aticus 2010 Crianza (Rioja). This is a light, and earthy, while the finish is blocky, bullish and palate with saturated flavors of wild raspberry, ripe 89 floral wine by Ribera standards. Rosy aro- a touch hot, with power in reserve. The Country plum, chocolate and fig. Compelling notes of lico- mas include baking spices and loamy red-fruit Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. rice and chocolate are accompanied by a touch of notes. The palate is kind of thin, but with enough abv: 14.5% Price: $14 youthful heat and burn on the finish. Best from tannic bite to make it lasting. Vanilla, raspberry, 2015 through 2025. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cel- red plum and tobacco flavors finish with vanilla Viridiana 2011 Ribera del Duero. Tarry, rub- lar Selection. —M.S. and coconut accents along with juicy acidity. Drink 87 bery aromas of blackened berry fruits lead abv: 14.5% Price: $350 through 2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. to a full, wide palate, with ripe blackberry, plum and abv: 13.5% Price: $36 chocolate flavors. This is full of oak spice on a long, Artadi 2010 Valdegines Single Vineyard satisfying finish. Aviva Vino.Best Buy. —M.S. 93 (Rioja). This is one minerally wine for Rioja. Fernández Gómez 2010 Garnacha (Rioja). abv: 14.4% Price: $12 Stony scents blend with latex and Band-Aid, while 89 Pointed red-fruit aromas of currant and lemon peel and hard-driving berry aromas define plum are light but direct. This feels fresh, with mild
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BUYINGGUIDE
raspberry flavors and not a whole lot else. On the medium-bodied structure, while notes of herbal oak covering but also rough and stalky. Vineyard finish, mellow notes of vanilla and red plum are spice vie with modest berry fruit flavors. A long, Brands. —M.S. supported by not overly aggressive tannins. Drink earthy finish contains hints of carob and smoked abv: 14.5% Price: $45 this fresh Garnacha through 2015. Elixir Wine meat. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13 Soto de Torres 2010 Ibéricos Crianza (Rio- abv: 14% Price: $27 86 ja). Red-fruit aromas come with notes of Dominio de Berzal 2010 7 Varietales (Rioja). leather, spice and stalkiness. Spiky acidity creates Pujanza 2010 Norte (Rioja). Powdery, per- 87 This blend of seven grapes is like a cup of a sharp mouthfeel that turns earthier as the acids 89 fumed aromas of raspberry and red plum dark-roast coffee blended with funk and green herbs fade. The flavor profile is tart, with herbal leanings announce a palate with ringing acidity. Plum, red on the nose. The palate is chunky, full and beefy, and raspberry. A slight bitterness and not much currant and strawberry flavors come with moderate with roasted black-fruit flavors that are slightly fruit are what you get on the finish. —M.S. loamy weight, while the finish takes on an earthy herbal and green. Oak, carob and herbal leftovers abv: 14% Price: $15 quality that’s balanced by shearing, tangy acidity. dominate the finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. This is only 60% Tempranillo while the rest is Gar- abv: 14% Price: $80 Bodegas Valdemar 2010 Conde de Valdemar nacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Drink through 2020. 84 Old Vines Garnacha (Rioja). Raisiny, pruny Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Lágrimas de Maria 2010 Crianza (Rioja). aromas are all that register on this rubbery, jammy abv: 14.5% Price: $95 87 Dusty berry aromas come with hints of lem- Garnacha. Flavors of sweet plum, raspberry and rai- on peel and sawdust. For the most part, this is a nice sin are chunky, while the finish is raisiny in flavor Covila 2009 II Crianza (Rioja). Lemony oak but basic wine with a forward outlook. Juicy flavors and rubbery in feel. CIV/USA. —M.S. 88 and solid but generic berry aromas flow of raspberry and plum are backed by a loamy, slight- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 onto a chunky, full palate with loamy berry, red ly overripe tasting finish. Baystate Wine & Spirits. plum, raisin, tomato and herbal flavors. For a basic —M.S. Finca Valpiedra 2008 Reserva (Rioja). The Rioja, this is minty, herbal and entirely authentic on abv: 14.5% Price: $14 80 cold, rainy conditions of 2008 must have the finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. affected this wine. Vegetal aromas, vinegar and abv: 14% Price: $15 Pujanza 2010 Hado (Rioja). Early aromas of green notes drive the nose, while the flavor profile 87 wet cement and rubber transition to leafy, is briny and pickled to an extreme. High acidity Dinastía Vivanco 2009 Crianza (Rioja). Red- herbal and mildly green. This feels tight, drawing and green flavors draw down the finish. Winebow. 88 berry aromas are earthy, herbal and toma- and unforgiving. Flavors of leafy, roasted plum and —M.S. toey but not green. This feels fair and balanced, berry are slightly stalky, while the finish is juicy in abv: 14% Price: $40 with tomato-like acids pushing flavors of red ber- feel and herbal in flavor. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. ries, plum and herbs. This finishes with traditional abv: 14% Price: $21 Rioja characteristics of herbs, spice and red fruits CALATAYUD along with acidic scour. Opici Wines. —M.S. Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2009 Rioja Bor- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 86 dón Crianza (Rioja). Roasted, slightly stalky Filón 2012 Garnacha (Calatayud). Milk aromas override the wine’s traditional dry fruit and 86 chocolate and oak aromas blend with light- Larchago 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Plum and tomato scents. This is tight in the mouth, with grip ly herbal berry scents. This is fresh and choppy on 88 raspberry are the lead aromas, and there and firm acidity. Flavors of tomato, herbs, roasted the palate, with red-fruit flavors of plum and pie are hints of leather and aged cheese in the mix. This plum and spice finish with lasting herbal notes and cherry. Aggressive and slightly herbal on the fin- offers a lively, appropriate mouthfeel and flavors of a good texture. This contains 20% Graciano along ish, this comes around with airing. Aviva Vino. Best berry and plum that run long, loamy and earthy on with Tempranillo. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. the finish. Assa Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $15 Finca Valpiedra 2010 Cantos de Valpiedra Cruz de Piedra 2012 Selección Especial Gar- Palacios Remondo 2010 Propiedad (Rioja). 86 Crianza (Rioja). Red-berry aromas feature 85 nacha (Calatayud). Hard and oaky cherry 88 Earthy, dried-fruit aromas are dessicated, a hint of raisin along with oaky notes of shoe pol- aromas filter into a tangy, zesty, clampy palate. while oaky scents of vanilla and licorice offer com- ish and lemon. A pinched, grabby, high-acid palate Plum and other red-berry fruit flavors finish raw plexity. This Garnacha-led blend feels jammy in contains rubbery flavors of berry, plum and citrus. and rugged, with overt oak character and a touch of structure; flavors of plum and raspberry come with On the finish, oak flavors and controlled bitterness minty, herbal green. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. herbal notes, while the finish is tangy due to point- settle in. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 ed acidity, with strawberry flavors in support. Folio abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. Marqués de Montañana 2012 Selección Espe- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Lágrimas de Maria 2012 Rioja. Spunky, lively 85 cial Garnacha (Calatayud). Rubbery, herbal 86 red-fruit aromas of raspberry and plum are red-berry aromas introduce a fresh but grating Bodegas Tobia 2009 Selección Crianza (Rio- the foyer to a healthy, juicy, fresh Tempranillo with palate with high acidity. This tastes a touch oaky 87 ja). Berry, mild prune, licorice, herb and simple red plum and raspberry flavors. A clean fin- and herbal, with generic red-fruit flavors. A crisp, rubbery aromas set up a wiry mouthfeel that’s full ish confirms this basic Rioja’s drinkability factor. slightly sharp finish is as you’d expect. Axial Wines of energy. Lemony oak rests on top of earthy berry Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. USA. —M.S. fruit flavors and hard tannins, while oak and high abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $12 acidity as well as plum and raspberry notes finish it off. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.S. Marqués de Cáceres 2008 Gaudium (Rioja). Bodegas Ateca 2012 Honoro Vera Garnacha abv: 13.5% Price: $18 86 Compost, tomato leaf and gritty berry aro- 83 (Calatayud). Tarry, stalky aromas fail to mas control the nose on this underripe and tannic make much of a statement. This is high in acid and Carlos Serres 2009 Crianza (Rioja). Red-fruit Rioja. Stalky flavors of tomato and berry fruits are rugged in the mouth, with a mixture of herbal red- 87 aromas come with a touch of stalky/stemmy definitively herbal, while the finish is toasty due to rusticity. Tomato-like acidity blends into the wine’s
46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 fruit flavors and distinct stalkiness. A grating finish fruits; give it time and it settles on jammy red-fruit L’Atzar 2012 Priorat. Initially this smells is racy and hot. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. aromas as well as a wide-bodied palate. Plum, cher- 84 green and candied, with overripe and un- abv: 14% Price: $9 ry and raspberry flavors all vie for attention, while derripe aromas. The palate is chunky and bulky, the finish is fresh, fruity and lively. Drink through while flavors of black fruits and green herbs finish Cruz de Piedra 2013 Garnacha (Calatayud). 2017. Europvin USA. —M.S. grassy, with notes of oregano and tarragon. Overall 83 Funky aromas of animal fur and lively berry abv: 14.5% Price: $NA this is heavy, extracted, sweet and sticky. Parador are not that inviting. In the mouth, this has a nar- Selections, LLC. —M.S. row feel and high acidity. Herbal, tart flavors of Ferrer Bobet 2010 Selecció Especial Vinyes abv: 14.5% Price: $25 plum and red currant are almost sour, while the 90 Velles Carignan (Priorat). Minerally aromas finish is on the green and herbal side. Axial Wines of boysenberry and red currant are fruity and direct. USA. —M.S. Like its younger brother, Vinyes Velles, this is racy, VALENCIA abv: 13.5% Price: $8 tangy and strictly structured. Flavors of wild berry come with schisty minerality and some oak, while Angosto 2011 Almendros Single Vineyard (Va- the finish is nervy, energetic and shearing. As a pair, 91 lencia). This is one fruity, loaded red. Aromas PRIORAT the 2010s are Ferrer Bobet’s most angular wines to of boysenberry, violet petals, latex and generic me- date. Vintus LLC. —M.S. dicinality set up a round, full-bodied but balanced Marco Abella 2009 Clos Abella (Priorat). abv: 14.5% Price: $100 palate. Flavors of ultraripe black fruits, blueberry 93 With a bright purple color and integrated and herbs finish long, moderately spicy and a touch but potent aromas of oak, mineral, schisty earth Picolino 2012 Suprafabulicious (Priorat). herbal. Drink through 2018. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. and black fruits, this is a rock-solid yet approach- 90 The goofy name is questionable, but the —M.S. able and delicious wine. A structured palate is firm wine is excellent. Raspberry, plum and minerally abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and braced by fine acidity, while flavors of wild aromas lead to a tight, structured palate with fla- herbs, licorice and blackberry finish with a touch vors of berry fruits and chocolate. This wine end Angosto 2011 Single Vineyard (Valencia). of molasses as well as brown sugar and anise. Drink with an aggressive and slightly hot finish that con- 90 The Valencia region has never been known through 2019. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ tains cherry and plum flavors. Drink through 2019. for world-class wines, but this is exemplary. Aromas Choice. —M.S. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. of sweet plum, boysenberry, blueberry and minerals abv: 15.5% Price: $90 abv: 14% Price: $25 lead into a structured, full-bodied palate with wild berry, cassis and herbal flavors. A lively palate is the Trossos del Priorat 2009 Pam de Nas (Prio- Ferrer Bobet 2010 Vinyes Velles (Priorat). antithesis of shy, while firm acidity keeps this fresh. 93 rat). Composed and elegant on the nose, 87 After the shocking purple color catches Drink through 2018. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. this classic Priorat blend of Grenache and Carignan your eye, minerally aromas of boysenberry, cherry abv: 14% Price: $29 opens with minerally berry aromas and a touch of and vitamin dust scream toward a vibrant, bouncy, fine oak. The palate is tight, intense and well etched, high-acid palate. Flavors of bright berry fruits are Angosto 2011 El Jefe de la Tribu (Valencia). with dark, toasty flavors of schisty black fruits. shear and tart, with minimal complexity or rich- 89 Of all the Angosto 2011s, El Jefe del Tribu Licorice flavors and herbal notes guide the finish ness. Overall this is intense, zesty and tart. Vintus is the most smoky and roasted of the group. Savory on this excellent Spanish red. Drink through 2019. LLC. —M.S. aromas of beef jerky and baked blackberry filter Votto Vines Importing. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 onto a ripe, slightly flat palate. Flavors of baked abv: 14.5% Price: $55 black fruits are gritty and mildly stalky, while the Flors 2011 Priorat. Light in color but fairly finish tastes of cooked berry fruits and generic Vall Llach 2009 Idus (Priorat). Black plum, 87 ripe on the nose, with dusty, earthy notes, blackness. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. 92 berry, violet petal and ultimately raisiny this is edgy and drawing in the mouth, with raisiny abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ripeness define the nose on this dark and lusty weight. Baked berry and prune flavors finish similar, Priorato. A ripe, saturated, muscular palate is home with a hint of heat. This is Grenache, Carignan and to blackberry, baked plum and spice flavors, while Syrah. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S. VALDEPEÑAS burnt brown sugar, pepper and herbal flavors dance abv: 14% Price: $22 comfortably on a deep, lengthy finish. Drink through Felix Solis 2009 Ayrum Reserva (Valdepe- 2018. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. Nita 2012 Priorat. Initial aromas are floral, 88 ñas). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. abv: 15.5% Price: $50 87 candied and medicinal, but with time the abv: 13% Price: $13 nose rounds into form. The palate has a grabby, sim- Morlanda 2009 Criança (Priorat). For full re- ple feel to it, while flavors of red plum and cherry Felix Solis 2012 Ayrum Tempranillo (Valde- 91 view see page 8. have a lactic aftertaste. This is a generic Priorat, but 86 peñas). For full review see page 13. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $48 it seems to get better the longer it sits in the glass. Buy. Drink now, but give it as much airing as possible. abv: 13% Price: $8 Casa Gran del Siurana 2011 GR-174 (Prio- Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. 90 rat). Rubbery, leathery aromas of minerally abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Felix Solis 2010 Ayrum Crianza Tempranillo berry and raisin set up a tight, well-structured pal- 85 (Valdepeñas). This is a bit rustic, with dry ate with bracing tannins. Fully ripe flavors of dark Clos Gebrat 2011 Priorat. Stalky aromas in- oak scents and cheesy aromas that fade with air- fruits and minerals finish warm and a bit baked, 86 filtrate schisty plum and berry scents, while ing. Choppy in the mouth, this Tempranillo shows with a firm, proper feel. Drink through 2019. MHW, in the mouth this Garnacha-led blend of five grapes bright acidity and leanness. Flavors of red berries Ltd. —M.S. is jammy feeling. Stalky, roasted berry flavors are and plum finish with a touch of roughness and bit- abv: 15% Price: $19 strong, while the finish is stalky tasting and gritty terness. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. in feel. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 Clos Figueras 2012 Serras del Priorat (Prio- abv: 15% Price: $20 90 rat). Early on, this smells young and a lot like latex mixed with candied plum and red-berry
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VINO DE LA TIERRA DE this shows dry aromas of cherry and raspberry along tastes ripe and rustic. Earthy, mulchy aromas of with earthy spice notes. The palate offers proper leathery berry fruits are telling. The palate weighs CASTILLA Y LEÓN balance and nothing complicated. Flavors of oak- in heavy and syrupy in feel, while flavors of stalky driven spice, cinnamon and pepper accent earthy blackberry and plum come with coffee, bitter choc- François Lurton 2009 El Albar Excelencia plum and berry, while the finish is smooth but a olate and earthy, herbal notes. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 92 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla touch hot. Drink through 2017. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 y León). Minerally aromas of black fruits, toast, abv: NA Price: $25 licorice, anise and coconut announce a ripe, stout Idrias 2007 Sevil (Somontano). Stony min- Tempranillo that’s cut from the so-called new-wave Mano A Mano 2011 Tempranillo (Vino de la 83 erality blends with raisin, leather and leafy cloth. This is vigorous yet full on the palate, with 90 Tierra de Castilla). It’s almost absurd how berry aromas. This offers cheek-stanching citric blackberry, boysenberry, licorice, herb and baking good this $9 Tempranillo is. Full, clean, deep aro- acidity but not enough body to absorb it. Flavors of spice flavors. A long, chocolaty, layered finish is the mas of black fruits and licorice feed into an ener- herbal red plum are choppy and turn gritty and fiery perfect ending. Drink through 2020. 4Front Im- getic yet generous palate with moderate richness. on the finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. ports, LLC. —M.S. Flavors of black cherry, blackberry and pepper fin- abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 15% Price: $60 ish spicy but not pushy. What a deal! Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. Clos Pons 2010 810 (Costers del Segre). Mauro 2008 VS Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier- abv: 14.5% Price: $9 82 Bulky, stewy, jammy aromas of prune and 92 ra de Castilla y León). Given how cool and raisin are an accurate indication of what’s to come. difficult the 2008 vintage was, this is impressive. Museum 2009 Reserva (Cigales). Smoky, This is pure prune juice, with mushy weight and Bold, oaky aromas of coconut, cola and mocha come 90 roasted, leathery aromas of black fruits are sweet, syrupy flavors. Fig, raisin and chocolate fla- with a blackberry backing. Vibrancy and hard tan- slightly stalky and show a lemony edge. This is tight vors pop up on the finish, but overall this is soupy nins push the palate, which brings chocolaty flavors, as a drum and hard on the palate, with lots of oak, and drastically overripe. RMB Imports. —M.S. spice and mocha along with core berry. Licorice, vanilla, herb, raspberry and currant flavors. A dry, abv: 14.5% Price: $80 toast and other black flavors drive an oaky, hard fin- firm, oaky finish with intensity and structure closes ish. Drink through 2021. Europvin USA. —M.S. things out. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 14% Price: $32 GREECE
Terreus 2009 Paraje de Dueva Baja (Vino de Celler Dosterras 2011 Vespres (Montsant). At ASSYRTICO 92 la Tierra de Castilla y León). This is a very 89 first, this comes across as raisiny and maybe ripe, modern, dark-styled wine with rich berry, to- even overripe. With airing, it settles on baked black Argyros 2013 Estate Assyrtico (Santorini). bacco, cola, spice and rooty aromas. The palate is fruits and density. Flavors of ripe berry, baked plum 91 Zesty lemon, minerals and sea salt on the meaty and muscular, but ultimately a bit soft. Fla- and raisin are undeniably chunky and deep, while nose lead into fresh, balanced citrus fruit and spice vors of baked berry, prune and licorice finish with oak and prune take over on the finish. Drink sooner on the palate. Bracing, but offering attractive fruit toasty oak as well as an extracted, ultraripe texture. rather than later. Classical Wines. —M.S. body, the wine has poise and food-driven panache. Drink through 2019. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 An excellent example of what the variety can do. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Pair with grilled seafood and poultry. Athenee Im- Volver 2011 Single Vineyard Tempranillo (La porters. —S.K. 89 Mancha). Vibrant black-fruit aromas come abv: 13.5% Price: $35 OTHER RED WINES across young and vital, with a lot of oak topping. The palate is chunky, with pulpy weight and plenty Argyros 2013 Assyrtiko (Santorini). Sea salt Ànima Negra 2011 Àn (Vi de la Terra Mal- of body. Blackberry and black currant are the lead 90 and lemon rind start this refreshing white. 92 lorca). With so few Mallorcan wines on the flavors, and they are backed by chocolaty oak. This Flavors of citrus, mineral and brine on the finish are market, Anima Negra operates in a vacuum. Thank- feels meaty and bulky, with tons of fruit-forward balanced and bright. A lovely wine and a great pair- fully the winery excels with this red made from the heft and power. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. ing for grilled octopus, sushi or poultry. Athenee local Callet grape. Dry, light, spicy aromas of sandal- abv: 15% Price: $17 Importers. —S.K. wood, tobacco and cherry come in front of a medi- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 um-bodied, creamy and oaky palate. Flavors of ripe Portal del Montsant 2011 Bruberry (Mont- yet spicy cherry and plum finish with notes of wood 88 sant). Jammy berry and plum aromas are Domaine Sigalas 2013 Assyrtico (Santo- smoke and baking spices. Drink this unique wine solid but sort of generic. This is fresh and lively on 90 rini). Focused and fresh, this wine starts through 2024. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. the palate, with a pointed, prickly overall feel. Stan- with aromas of snappy lemon and slate, followed by abv: NA Price: $50 dard berry and plum flavors are a touch earthy and sea salt, tropical fruit and citrus on the palate. The finish with moderate depth. CIV/USA. —M.S. acid-fruit interplay offers an expressive but lively Viñas del Cenit 2010 Via Cenit VDC Tempra- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 choice for pairing with salads, ethnic cuisine and 92 nillo (Tierra del Viños de Zamora). Floral fruit dishes. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. black-fruit aromas are mildly raisiny and con- Yemanueva 2011 La Tercia Bodega Tempranil- abv: 13.7% Price: $25 densed. This is a potent bomber with deep flavors 87 lo (La Mancha). Firm cherry and berry aro- of blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and fig. Overall, mas offer grit and a whiff of asphalt on the side. A Boutari 2012 Assyrtico (Santorini). Orange, it’s fruity, dense and delicious but a touch short on grabby palate is driven by a slightly astringent acid- 89 lemon, vanilla and white flower start this complexity. On the finish, powerful tannins only tannin package, while flavors of roasted berry fruits fresh and spicy white. Fruity, but balanced by a lime increase their vise grip. Drink through 2022. Aviva are round, dark and toasty. This is a touch edgy but and wet stone base, the wine is elegant and food Vino. —M.S. tasty and good. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. friendly. Terlato Wines International. —S.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $25
Ànima Negra 2011 Àn/2 (Vi de la Terra Mal- Mano A Mano 2011 Manon Tempranillo (Vino Domaine Sigalas 2013 Fermented in Oak 91 lorca). Lightly roasted and stalky on the nose, 85 de la Tierra de Castilla). This smells and 89 Barrel Assyrtico (Santorini). The terse na-
48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 ture of Assyrtico finds a friend in oak when properly Greek Wine Cellars 2013 Assyrtiko (San- Skouras 2013 Georges Skouras Moschofilero administered, as this wine exhibits. On the nose, 86 torini). A fresh and fruity nose of lemon, 87 (Peloponnese). Pear, peach and limestone citrus and mineral harmoniously mingle with spice white flowers and peach give this Assytriko a more on the nose are followed by elegant flavors of lemon and toast. On the palate, the wine retains its bright feminine edge. On the palate, it’s smooth but spicy, blossom, pear and wet stone. Balanced and fresh, it lemon and citrus flavors but is given extra body with lemon blossom and brine dancing on the pal- will pair well with delicate salads, poultry and fruit. through the subtle oak. A lovely wine with a clean ate. Good and easy to drink. Nestor Imports. —S.K. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. finish. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $30 Cavino 2012 Dry Moschofilero (Mantinia). A Santo Wines 2010 Reserve Assyrtico (San- MOSCHOFILERO 85 spicy, floral nose leads this fresh white from 89 torini). This is a luscious wine but has an Mantinia. Balanced with fruity pear and lemon fla- elegant balance, thanks to the mineral undercurrent Boutari 2013 Moschofilero (Mantinia). This vors, it’s a good everyday white with a glamorous so typical in Greek wines. On the nose, toast, vanilla 90 fresh but fruity white starts with aromas of edge. Greek Boys Choice, INC. —S.K. and smoke lead, while flavors of apple, peach and white rose, grapefruit and citrus, followed by light abv: 11.5% Price: $14 flower follow. Soft and generous in style, but -fin and elegant flavors of lemon, grapefruit and sea salt. ishes clean. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. Playful but memorable. Terlato Wines Internation- Greek Wine Cellars 2012 Moschofilero (Pelo- abv: 15% Price: $24 al. —S.K. 85 ponnese). This fresh, robust white starts abv: 11.5% Price: $16 with aromas of slate and citrus, followed by flavors Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2013 Château Julia of citrus, tropical fruit and mineral. This easygoing 88 Assyrtiko (Drama). The fuller bodied, lay- Spiropoulos 2013 Made with Organic Grapes selection is a great everyday white wine for grilled ered Assyrtiko from northern Greece starts with 90 Moschofilero (Mantinia). This organic of- fish and salads. Nestor Imports. —S.K. aromas of grapefruit, lemon and pineapple, followed fering from a lauded Moschofilero producer starts abv: 12% Price: $15/1.5 L by exotic fruit and sea salt on the palate. Vibrant with aromas of lemon blossom, rose and wet stone, but offering softer fruit flavors, the wine finishes followed by fresh flavors of citrus, peach and white Tsantali 2012 Mono Moschofilero (Pelopon- fresh and clean. Nestor Imports. —S.K. fruits. Floral and elegant, it should be paired with 85 nese). An herbaceous undercurrent gives abv: 12.5% Price: $18 grilled chicken or full-flavored fish. Athenee Im- this fresh white character. Along with a touch of porters. —S.K. mint and fresh herb, there’s a wave of floral aroma. Gaia Wines 2013 Thalassitis Assyrtico (San- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 On the palate, it’s fruity and feminine. A fun every- 88 torini). Named after the ancient Greek prac- day white. Fantis Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —S.K. tice of mixing seawater with wine for medicinal Nasiakos 2012 Moschofilero (Mantinia). abv: 15% Price: $10 purposes, Thallasitis is a full-bodied white with 89 Brisk and fruity but with a distinctive note aromas of flowers, tropical fruit and honeysuckle. of spice and pear, this Moschofilero offers approach- On the palate, it’s structured with a distinctive min- able, ripe-fruit expression with an exotic edge. Pair AGIORGITIKO eral base. Very unique and terroir driven in nature. with grilled seafood, Chinese cuisine or fruit salad. Athenee Importers. —S.K. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. Gaia Wines 2008 Gaia Estate Agiorgitiko abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 12% Price: $16 91 (Nemea). Cinnamon, black cherry and spice aromas lead into cigarbox, leather, cedar and dried Papaioannou 2012 St. Elias Assyrtico My Big Fat Greek Wine 2012 Dry White Mos- cherries on the palate in this balanced, integrated 88 (Corinth). Assyrtico speaks of the sea, and 88 chofilero (Peloponnese). This rounded red. Distinctive but versatile, this is a classic wine this bottling drives home the mineral-driven, sea- white starts with aromas of lemon peel, orange jam, that will pair well with lamb and beef. Athenee Im- salt character that makes the variety so special. El- spice and flowers, followed by appealing flavors porters. —S.K. egant and fresh, with a touch of light lemon rind of citrus and white fruit. It has body and struc- abv: 14% Price: $39 and lime zest, this is a seafood lover’s friend. Lots ture, and will temper spicy food well: think Indian, of balance and character. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. Szechuan. Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. Tselepos 2011 Driopi Classic Agiorgitiko abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $15 91 (Nemea). For full review see page 8. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Boutari 2010 Kallisti Reserve Assyrtico (San- Voyatzis 2013 Kyklos Moschofilero (Pelo- 87 torini). The nose on this wine is exotic, of- 88 ponnese). Floral, fresh, fruity and fun de- Palivou 2008 Ammos Reserve Terra Le- fering smoke, vanilla, lemon curd and spice. On the scribes this attractive and affordable Moschofilero 90 one Single Vineyard Selection Agiorgitiko palate, it’s a fat wine with lots of peach, lemon, va- from lauded winemaker Yannis Voyatzis. Aromas (Nemea). Refined aromas of toasted vanilla, spice- nilla and wood, but the acidity keeps it balanced. of pear, citrus and flower are followed by vivacious box, plum and tobacco are followed by vibrant A distinctive wine that speaks to its origin. Terlato fruit flavors and a mineral lift. This is easy drinking waves of cherry, olive, dried herb and tobacco. The Wines International. —S.K. and great for light meals and patio parties. Nestor wine is elegant but has soul. Stellar Importing Com- abv: 14% Price: $30 Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. pany, LLC. —S.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $50 Gaia Wines 2013 Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Fer- 87 ment (Santorini). Grown in the upland Greek Wine Cellars 2013 Moscofilero (Man- Voyatzis 2011 Kyklos Agiorgitiko (Pelopon- vineyard of Pyrgos, this Assyrtiko offers citrus and 87 tinia). Lemon rind and fresh white fruits 90 nese). Cinnamon, plum, and mellow cherry spice aromas and a full-bodied flavor profile. Citrus, are the hallmark of this elegant white. The style is aromas give this wine a poised start. On the palate, vanilla and minerals dominate the palate. Air with focused but with a touch of layered fruit. Great for the wine is balanced and offers delicious waves of more robust vegetable or fish dishes. Athenee Im- food pairing; think grilled salmon or Thai cuisine. bitter almond, spicebox, sour cherry and cinnamon. porters. —S.K. Nestor Imports. —S.K. Pair with grilled lamb and burgers. Nestor Imports. abv: 13% Price: $36 abv: 12% Price: $14 Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $12
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Gaia Wines 2011 Agiorgitiko by Gaia the palate. The wine is clean and bright but has box on the nose lead into balanced, easy drinking 88 (Nemea). Earthy aromas of mushroom and complexity. Great with lamb or hard, salty cheeses. flavors of red berry, cherry and smoke. Good acid- forest floor, plus cinnamon and sour cherry, are fol- Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. ity buoys the bright fruit. Pair with grilled meats. lowed by vivacious cherry flavors. The wine evolves abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Nestor Imports. —S.K. on the palate to reveal cedar, smoke and spice un- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 dertones. This is a memorable, modern style of this Thymiopoulos 2012 Young Vines Xinomavro variety. Athenee Importers. —S.K. 90 (Naoussa). Raspberry, spicebox and cin- Thymiopoulos 2011 Uranos Xinomavro abv: 14% Price: $29 namon aromas start this modern-style Xinomavro. 87 (Naoussa). Plum, spice and cedar lead this Lively acidity and a good tannic structure balance spicy red. The wine offers bright but balanced fla- Kouros 2011 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Cherry, the cherry fruit. A great introduction to the variety. vors of red and black cherry, cedar and warming 88 blackberry and exotic spice aromas start Athenee Importers. —S.K. spice. The finish has a clean, mineral edge. Pair this this fresh, mineral-driven red. Plum, cherry and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 with strong cheeses and dried meats. Athenee Im- fennel flavors are balanced and unique. Pair this porters. —S.K. with lamb or sausage. Nestor Imports. Best Buy. Chrisohoou 2010 Xinomavro (Naoussa). abv: 14% Price: $26 —S.K. 89 This versatile red offers cola, cocoa and abv: 13% Price: $10 coffee aromas and earthy, balanced flavors of plum, Tsantali 2009 Xinomavro (Naoussa). Cinna- dried cherry, cocoa and spice. Approachable but 87 mon, pepper and cedar lead on this elegant Papaioannou 2011 Saint George Agiorgitiko true to the variety, this wine is still evolving and can red. Flavors of toasted nut, smoke, and cocoa follow 87 (Peloponnese). Tart cherry and pepper age for years to come. Nestor Imports. —S.K. in a pert, clean wave. Pair with lamb, smoked meat aromas are followed by an earthy, masculine com- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 or robust cheese. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. bination of flavors in this wine. Toasted nut, aged abv: 12.5% Price: $13 leather and spice box flavors speak to its native ter- Tsantali 2006 Reserve Xinomavro (Naous- roir. An affordable wine with good Greek character. 89 sa). A blend of Xinomavro and the native Alpha Estate 2010 Hedgehog Vineyard Xino- Fantis Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —S.K. grapes Krasato and Stavroto, this is an elegant wine 86 mavro (Amyndeon). Cherry, spicebox, pep- abv: 13% Price: $10 showcasing aromas and flavors of plum, cherry, to- per and some vegetal aromas are followed by flavors bacco and violet. Mineral and coffee notes add to of blueberry, toast and cherry. This is an approach- Tselepos 2012 Driopi Classic Agiorgitiko the poised character. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. able Greek red with bright fruit and good acidity. A 87 (Nemea). Anise, cherry and a floral note abv: 13.5% Price: $19 spicy finish adds to the appeal. Pair with game and on the nose give this wine an elegant start. On the pork. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. palate, it offers a refined balance of smoke, cherry, Cavino 2011 Dry Xinomavro (Naoussa). Cola, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 kirsch and olive. It’s generous and likeable but still 88 black cherry and pepper aromas start this clean and fresh, with good tannic structure. Tobacco refined bottling from Cavino. Blackberry, plum and on the finish adds character. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. cinnamon are nicely integrated, and the finish is RED BLEND abv: 13.5% Price: $22 clean and fresh. Structured and elegant, this wine will age for years to come. Greek Boys Choice, INC. Ktima Voyatzi 2010 Dry Red (Vin de Pays de Mediterra 2011 Agiorgitiko (Peloponnese). —S.K. 87 Velvendo). Clove, menthol, herb and spice 86 Fresh cherry and spice aromas start this abv: 12.5% Price: $15 give this fresh and distinctive red blend an indig- cheerful Agiorgitko. Easy red fruit, vanilla and spice enous edge. Toast, pepper, cinnamon spice and red are in balance, with medium tannins. A good every- Kir-Yianni 2009 Diaporos Block 5 Xinomav- cherry flavors are appealing and ageable. The Cab- day choice for red meat, pork or robust cheese. Hel- 88 ro (Imathia). This distinctive wine has aro- ernet and Merlot add dimension. Nestor Imports. las Import Limited. —S.K. mas of black cherry, vanilla and plum. Friendly but —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $15 ageable, the palate offers a mix of spicy oak, bright abv: 13.5% Price: $22 cherry, fig and cedar flavors. Good acidity keeps it Voyatzis 2012 Kyklos Agiorgitiko (Pelopon- aloft. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 86 nese). Kyklos offers aromas of vanilla, cher- abv: 13.9% Price: $45 TURKEY ry, menthol and tobacco. On the palate, dried cherry fruit, spicebox and cedar give it a refined edge. The Vaeni 2006 Grande Réserve Xinomavro WHITE WINES finish is touched with smoke and pepper. Nestor 88 (Naoussa). Cherry, plum and smoke start Imports. —S.K. this easy drinking Naoussa Xinomavro. Smoke, va- Sevilen 2012 Denizli-Guney Plateau Sauvi- abv: 13% Price: $12 nilla and smooth berry flavors are integrated and 89 gnon Blanc (Aegean). Light straw in color, fresh. A great introduction to the variety. Stellar this wine offers aromas of pineapple, river rock and Boutari 2011 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Cigar- Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. toast. Flavors of honeydew, guava, orange blossom 85 box, mint, balsamic and leather lead this abv: 13% Price: $23 and bitter almond are evident on the palate. The traditionally minded Agiorgitiko from Boutari. On symmetry of creamy and tangy sensations contin- the palate, plum, spice and tobacco prevail. Terlato Alpha Estate 2010 Reserve Vieilles Vignes ues into the smooth finish. Kalara Import. —M.D. Wines International. —S.K. 87 Unfiltered Xinomavro (Amyndeon). Cedar, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 cinnamon and black cherry aromas offer friendly and generous appeal here. The wine is fruit-forward Suvla 2012 Chardonnay (Thrace). Pleas- and friendly with blueberry, black cherry and pep- 89 ing aromas of guava, watermelon rind and XINOMAVRO per on the palate. An easy drinking but elegant a hint of lemon zest set the stage for flavors of choice. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Cavaillon melon, peach, marzipan and orange rind. Kir-Yianni 2010 Ramnista Xinomavro abv: 14% Price: $38 Smooth in the mouth, this wine features a nice 90 (Naoussa). Blackberry, fennel, sausage and interplay of bright and savory notes. A cool finish cedar lead the nose on this brooding red. Warming Ktima Voyatzi 2009 Xinomavro (Vin de Pays spice, red berry and toasted oak follow in layers on 87 de Velvendo). Vanilla, cinnamon and cigar
50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 washes across the side palate, punctuated by a burst ing cooperation between deep and bright notes that 34% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Syrah of acidity. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. make for a satisfying sipping experience. Suvla USA and 19% Cabernet Franc is dark violet-red in col- abv: 13% Price: $17 LLC. —M.D. or. The nose offers a fruity and spicy mélange, like abv: 15% Price: $39 baked blueberry pie. Tannins slightly overpower Suvla 2012 Kinali Yapincak (Thrace). Made flavors of blueberry, cherry, clove, anise and thyme. 84 of Kinali Yapincak, a grape native to Tur- Sevilen 2009 Centum Syrah (Aegean). Inky Vinorai, LLC. —M.D. key, this deep-straw colored wine does not give up 89 red violet to the eye, this wine offers fra- abv: 14% Price: $60 much on the nose beyond a touch of apricot and grances of blackberry, roast meat and espresso just-washed cotton sheets. It does not seem wholly bean. There is a pleasing interplay between acidity Selendi 2010 Merlot (Aegean). Deep red integrated on the palate, with chewy tannins over- and tannins on the palate, backing flavors of ripe 86 violet to the eye, this wine offers aromas of powering flavors of melon, toast and white flower. cherry, almond blossom, Mediterranean herbs and ripe cherry, pomegranate and orange zest. There is a Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. a drop of salinity. Heading into the sleek finish, the sensation of coolness dominating fruit, with flavors abv: 12.5% Price: $15 plush texture does not overstay its welcome. Kalara of blackberry, pomegranate, menthol, clove and or- Import. —M.D. ange zest. It is a bit chewy on the palate; the strong abv: 13.3% Price: $45 tannins are crying out to be served alongside grilled RED WINES lamb or beef. Vinorai, LLC. —M.D. Sevilen 2011 Denizli-Güney Plateau Kalecik abv: 14.5% Price: $120 Suvla 2011 Grand Reserve Single Vineyard Bo- 89 Karasi (Aegean). Made of Kalecik Karasi, 91 zokbag Cabernet Sauvignon (Thrace). Dark an indigenous Turkish grape, this wine has aromas Diren 2010 Red Blend (Turkey). Red violet in red-violet to the eye, this opens with aromas of of strawberry and orange rind that are a pleasant 84 the glass, this blend of 85% Öküzgözü and black raspberry and cherry cola. It is cool at first, prelude to flavors of tart and ripe summer cher- 15% Cabernet Sauvignon has a nose of butterscotch with flavors of clove and menthol that are punctu- ry, pomegranate, vanilla and a whisper of salin- and black cherry. Flavors do not coalesce complete- ated by a vein of cherry cola and candied orange ity. Tongue-coating tannins fade into the smooth, ly, with cool notes of menthol and clove prevailing rind. All these flavors come together on the palate, bright finish. Kalara Import. —M.D. over flavors of tart cherry, raspberry and a hint of sheathed in a layer of velvety tannins. The soft fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 iodine. Vinorai, LLC. —M.D. ish is brightened by a vivid note of citrus. Suvla abv: 13.3% Price: $14 USA LLC. —M.D. Suvla 2012 Karasakiz (Thrace). Medium abv: 14% Price: $79 89 garnet in color, this wine has a bouquet of cranberry and chocolate. It is simultaneously bright ISRAEL Suvla 2012 Merlot (Thrace). Deep garnet in and velvety, with an interesting flavor profile of fen- 91 color with a bright rim, this wine has a nose nel bulb, strawberry, lemon zest and coffee. The WHITE WINES of black cherry, strawberry and anise. Flavors of mellow finish has a lingering note of toasted corian- black cherry, wild strawberry, fennel bulb and a der seed. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. Domaine du Castel 2012 C Blanc du Castel touch of eucalyptus mingle on the palate amid vel- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 (Haute Judée). For full review see page 8. vety tannins. A last-second burst of bright cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $45 lights up the silky finish. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. Suvla 2011 Sir (Thrace). A bouquet of abv: 14.5% Price: $17 89 blackberry, violet and subtle rose petal is Tabor 2012 Mt. Tabor Chardonnay (Galilee). the precursor to rich flavors of cherry, blackberry, 90 For full review see page 10. Best Buy. Sevilen 2007 Premium Tepe Vineyard Syrah- strawberry, clove and mint. A blend of Syrah and abv: 14.5% Price: $15 90 Merlot (Aegean). A blend of 60% Syrah Merlot, this offers a chewy texture and refreshing and 40% Merlot, this wine is deep ruby to the eye, astringency that carries through to the velvety fin- Tabor 2013 Adama Sauvignon Blanc (Gali- with aromas of blackberry, forest floor, river rock ish. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. 89 lee). A bouquet of white peach, honeysuckle and thyme. At first sip, the tannins come on strong, abv: 14.5% Price: $39 and rose petal with a whiff of freshly mowed grass immediately followed by vibrant flavors of cherry, yields to flavors of cantaloupe, Turkish delight and pomegranate, orange zest, anisette and oregano. To Sevilen 2011 Denizli-Güney Plateau Syrah nutmeg joined by a touch of salinity. Soft mouthfeel some palates, the tannins could be overpowering, 88 (Aegean). Almost blue-black in color with a and well-integrated flavors make way for a bright but ample acidity and bright fruit flavors make the red-violet rim, this Syrah presents aromas of black- floral splash on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- whole package work. Kalara Import. —M.D. berry, mocha and a hint of green pepper. Simultane- poration. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ously refreshing and well-rounded, it has pleasant abv: 12.5% Price: $18 flavors of blackberry, orange rind and chocolate- Suvla 2011 Reserve Single Vineyard Bozok- covered espresso bean. Kalara Import. —M.D. 90 bag Cabernet Sauvignon (Thrace). Aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $17 SHIRAZ/SYRAH of cherry, raspberry and buttered toast set the scene for a wine whose flavors of Bing cherry, custard, Urla 2011 Nero D’Avola-Urla Karasi (Aegean). Yatir 2009 Syrah (Judean Hills). For full re- clove and fennel are bright on entry before pleas- 88 This dark ruby-colored wine has aromas 92 view see page 6. antly washing across the side palate. Unified fruit of menthol, black cherry and lavender. Flavors of abv: 14.5% Price: $48 and spice flavors endure on the taste buds into the blackberry, Dr. Pepper, ground clove and mace form smooth, drawn out finish. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. a united front on the palate among heavy, mouth- Montefiore 2010 Syrah (Judean Hills). For abv: 14.5% Price: $39 coating tannins. The lasting finish wraps up with a 90 full review see page 9. surprisingly zesty note of fresh ginger. The House Of abv: 14% Price: $45 Suvla 2011 Reserve Single Vineyard Bozok- Burgundy. —M.D. 90 bag Syrah (Thrace). This wine has a deep abv: 14.5% Price: $56 Or Haganuz 2012 Amuka Series Marus Single violet-red color and a nose of raspberry, vanilla and 90 Vineyard Shiraz (Galilee). For full review see graphite. Fruit-dominant flavors of raspberry and Selendi 2011 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Syr- page 10. cherry, with a touch of custard, showcase a satisfy- 87 ah-Cabernet Franc (Aegean). This blend of abv: 14% Price: $17
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Tabor 2011 Adama Shiraz (Galilee). For full Or Haganuz 2011 Marom Series Shamai Sin- jasmine followed by apple elements that arise in the 90 review see page 10. 86 gle Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). midpalate. Serve with shrimp paella. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 With a dark red violet color and aromas of black abv: 13.9% Price: $40 cherry and fennel, this wine has flavors of black Tabor 2012 Mt. Tabor Shiraz (Galilee). Deep cherry, mint and clove. The scale tips in the direc- J Wilkes 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- 89 ruby in color and with aromas of cherry and tion of cooling herbs over fruit, and the warm finish 92 ley). For full review see page 6. butterscotch, this wine has flavors of black cherry, is a bit one-dimensional. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 lemon zest, thyme and mint. Heady tannins endure poration. —M.D. through the smooth yet unpredictably zippy finish. abv: 14% Price: $28 Riverbench 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. 92 Maria Valley). This bottling slips in many abv: 14.4% Price: $15 Golan Heights Winery 2009 Yarden T2 Touri- corners of the flavor experience at once. On the 84 ga Nacional-Tinta Cao Red Blend (Galilee). If nose, a bit of tropical fruit mixes with evenly spread blackberry preserves and black licorice were made buttercream, followed by precursor hints of bright OTHER RED WINES into a wine, this would be it. While Yarden’s T2 dry acidity on the palate. That citrus-led vibrancy does blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao is a very come, as does a mix of creaminess and limestone- Domaine du Castel 2011 Petit Castel (Judean good wine, this sweet Port-style wine misses the inflected tang, as if the rocks themselves delivered 89 Hills). This dark garnet-colored blend of mark. With a nose of blackberry preserves, cas- the acidity. —M.K. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Pe- sis and rose petal—and flavors of blackberry, cas- abv: 13.7% Price: $26 tit Verdot has aromas of blackberry, raspberry and sis, licorice and clove—it should be gorgeous in the rose petal. Flavors of black cherry and anise with mouth. However, the overall sweetness is cloying Stephen Ross 2012 Chardonnay (Edna Val- touches of green pepper and menthol ride a layer without necessary balance. Kosher. Yarden Wines, 92 ley). Glazed apple and pineapple sorbet of barely-there tannins into the soft finish. Kosher. Inc. —M.D. frame the nose on this offering from Central Coast Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 18.5% Price: $44 veteran Stephen Ross Dooley, who makes his wine abv: 14% Price: $45 in one of San Luis Obispo’s only urban wineries. The wine is very full and soft on the palate, with Shiloh Winery 2011 Mosaic (Judean Hills). A CALIFORNIA round, traditional Chardonnay flavors and a satis- 89 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet fying balance between ripe, rich fruit and lingering Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this deep violet-red WHITE WINES acidity. The finishing flavors feel more oak-derived wine has a nose of black cherry, crème brulée and than acidity-fueled. Cellar Selection. —M.K. black pepper. Cool and fruity notes play well to- CHARDONNAY abv: 14.5% Price: $24 gether on the palate, shored up by flavors of black cherry, orange zest, menthol, clove and a touch of Joseph Phelps 2012 Freestone Vineyards Testarossa 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char- seawater. Mevushal. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- 94 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 92 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). A nose of tion. —M.D. For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. baked apple and saline minerality introduce this abv: 14.7% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $55 wine from this single-vineyard superstar winery. The palate picks up with zing, offering apple candy, Tabor 2012 Mt. Tabor Merlot (Galilee). This Testarossa 2012 Diana’s Chardonnay (Cali- lemon lime soda and a bit of bitter tension as well. 89 wine is dark garnet in the glass, with aro- 93 fornia). There’s a touch of Riesling-like pet- The wine evolves steadily while on the tongue and is mas of raspberry and boysenberry that set the pal- rol to the nose of this best-barrels Chardonnay from never boring. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ate up for flavors of eucalyptus, thyme, oregano and Testarossa, as well as dried citrus, fresh roasted abv: 14.3% Price: $45 black cherry. The flavor profile leans a little too far cashews and Chinese almond cookie. The palate towards the herbal end of the spectrum, but it is ul- is very soft, with ripe fruit such as baked oranges. Testarossa 2012 Cuvée Los Gatos Chardon- timately a pleasant and easy-drinking wine. Kosher. A nicely buttered touch bolsters the refreshing, 92 nay (Monterey County). Los Gatos-based Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. mouthwatering acidity. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Testarossa is building a powerful reputation as a abv: 14.3% Price: $15 abv: 14.3% Price: $61 single-vineyard specialist, but this more acces- sibly priced cuvée from Monterey County rivals Montefiore 2010 Petite Sirah (Judean Hills). Testarossa 2012 La Rinconada Vineyard Char- their best efforts. There is nuttiness, brioche and 88 A nose of tart cherry, tomato leaf and 93 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). The single-vineyard slightly sour orange on the nose, followed by a very Mediterranean herbs primes the palate for flavors experts at Testarossa hit a homerun with this wine soft mouthfeel, with flavors of pound cake, vanilla of cherry, cranberry, green olive and thyme with a from a famed property. Aromas of 7-Up, recent rains cookie, peach cobbler and candied grapefruit. Edi- trace of eucalyptus. Although at first the tannins and minerality kick off a refreshing experience, tors’ Choice. —M.K. can be a bit gum-numbing, as the chewy qual- which is powered by a strong flavor combination abv: 14.3% Price: $23 ity recedes there is a nice play between brightness of very ripe fruit (à la traditional California Char- and rich texture. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. donnay), barrel-related vanilla and brisk, lingering Testarossa 2012 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardon- —M.D. acidity (à la Old World). Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 92 nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Testarossa’s abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 single-vineyard expertise shines on this wine from Rosella’s, which is fresh and alive on the nose with Tabor 2012 Mt. Tabor Cabernet Sauvignon Chamisal Vineyards 2012 Califa Estate Char- ripe nectarine and grapefruit peel. The acidity car- 88 (Galilee). Deep ruby in the glass, this wine 92 donnay (Edna Valley). “Califa” is a Native ries prominently on the palate, but the ruby-red has a nose of black cherry and vanilla. Flavors of American word meaning the prettiest one, and grapefruit elements are not sharp, possessing both black cherry, eucalyptus and menthol, encased in that’s what winemaker Fintan du Fresne delivers sweet and savory sides and finishing with some bit- a smooth tannic structure, make their way across in this estate-grown wine. The lovely nose is spun terness. Serve with honey-glazed seared scallops. the entire palate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. tightly around citrus, white roses and limestone, Cellar Selection. —M.K. —M.D. while the well-integrated palate offers a touch of abv: 14.2% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $15
52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Cambria 2012 Katherine’s Vineyard Estate palate, with baked apple, wet stone, slight kiwi and Testarossa 2012 Rincon Vineyard Chardon- 91 Grown & Bottled Chardonnay (Santa Maria a noticeable salinity. —M.K. 90 nay (Arroyo Grande Valley). Salted peach, Valley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 vanilla-smeared French toast and a hint of guava abv: 14.6% Price: $22 make for a very powerful aromatic impression on Tondré 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- this wine from the Arroyo Grande appellation at FEL 2012 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). An 91 lands). Tart aromas—both familiar like green the southern end of San Luis Obispo County. Those 91 unabashed California Chardonnay with but- apple and more obscure like mustard—comprise the scents don’t exactly translate to the palate, though, tery aromas, sunny fruit flavors of ripe pear and nose on this estate offering. On the palate, the fla- where the wine it a bit leaner than promised, with peach, and a lingering finish that hints at vanilla vors are surprisingly luscious and ripe for such an apple pie flavors the most dominant. —M.K. and cream. Fresh acidity and a light touch of oak intriguing nose, led by pineapple and finishing with abv: 14.1% Price: $45 keep the texture lively and refresh the palate. FEL is a touch of sour orange and, again, tart apple. Cellar a cool-climate line of wines from Napa’s Lede Fam- Selection. —M.K. Testarossa 2012 Sierra Madre Vineyard ily Wines. —J.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $25 90 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Vanilla- abv: 14.2% Price: $28 soaked French toast and caramelized apples promise Byron 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara a butter bomb in this Testarossa take on the historic Ironstone 2012 Reserve Estate Grown Char- 90 County). For full review see page 8. Sierra Madre Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley. 91 donnay (Sierra Foothills). For full review see abv: 13.8% Price: $17 Once sipped, there is a surprising level of soda-like page 7. acidity, and a steadily emerging flavor profile that abv: 15.5% Price: $20 Cottonwood Canyon 2009 Barrel Select ranges from cream soda to squeezed lime. —M.K. 90 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Cali- abv: 14.3% Price: $45 Kendall-Jackson 2012 Jackson Estate Camelot fornia Chardonnays can be quite interesting after 91 Highlands Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). a few years in the bottle, and this 2009 screwcap Tolosa 2012 No Oak Chardonnay (Central For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. is a great example. The aromas lean toward white 90 Coast). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 truffle, toasted walnuts and melting marshmallow, abv: 14.5% Price: $21 all backed up by limestone and tangerine. On the Morgan 2012 Double L Chardonnay (Santa Lu- slightly viscous palate, there are bright flavors of Hovey 2013 Duende Chardonnay (Calaveras 91 cia Highlands). In 1996, Dan and Donna Lee apricot jam as well as more marshmallow and wal- 89 County). A bold Chardonnay that embraces planted the Double L Vineyard, believing it to be the nut. It’s hitting the prime drinking point now; drink new oak barrels and has the flavor profile to show best place to produce a great wine in the appella- up. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. for it. Hovey fermented it in 50% new oak barrels, tion. The 2012 rendition continues the legacy, of- abv: 13.3% Price: $48 matured it on the lees and bottled it a few months fering melted butter, caramel, vanilla and Parmesan after harvest. The scent and flavor of toasted oak cheese aromas, followed by a palate of lemon curd, Guenoc 2012 Chardonnay (Lake County). comes through from the first sniff to the finish. But toasted marshmallow and more butter, but in a lift- 90 For full review see page 9. enough fruit, butter and almond flavors lie beneath ing way. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 the toasty overlay to make us come back for another abv: 13.9% Price: $42 sip. —J.G. McFadden Vineyard 2013 Estate Grown abv: 13.8% Price: $20 Savannah-Chanelle 2012 Chardonnay (Santa 90 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Char- 91 Lucia Highlands). This bottling, sourced from donnay (Potter Valley). Fresh, vivid fruit flavors pop Laetitia 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Arroyo the popular Tondre’s Grapefield, is imbued with the from this light-colored, well-balanced, mouthwa- 89 Grande Valley). This is a very pale Char- scents and tastes of passionfruit. Fleeting spear- tering wine. Ripe pear, crisp apple and a touch of donnay from Laetitia Winery, which sits just three mint and picked pear characters also arise on the baking spices mingle on the palate and linger on the miles from the ocean amidst vineyards planted on nose, while apple tart flavors emerge midpalate. But finish. —J.G. rocky clay loam, and yet possesses an appealing, passionfruit rules the day, and that’s not a bad thing abv: 13% Price: $16 complex mix of creaminess and crispiness on the at all. Cellar Selection. —M.K. nose. There is a slight bitterness on the palate as abv: 13.3% Price: $27 Robert Mondavi 2012 Chardonnay (Napa well as brioche and citrus zest on the finish. This 90 Valley). Inviting in peach, pear, orange tightly focused wine would perfectly cut the rich- Stephen Ross 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char- blossom and lemon chiffon, it’s nicely balanced ness of shrimp scampi or other buttery dish. Cellar 91 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). There’s slight between a texture of wet stone, keen acidity and a Selection. —M.K. buttercream alongside nectarine, Gala apple and restrained measuring of oak. The finish revisits the abv: 13.8% Price: $18 just-ripe melon in this offering from Central Coast lemon theme, with hints of almond and creamy, veteran Stephen Ross Dooley, who sourced the mouthwatering allure. —V.B. Roblar 2012 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). A historic Bien Nacido Vineyard for this wine. Once abv: 13.5% Price: $19 89 citrus-inflected, vanilla-leaning nuttiness sipped, the balance between Key lime pie flavors, consumes the aromas of this offering, which makes present but not overly brisk acidity, and a tad of bit- Testarossa 2012 Lone Oak Vineyard Char- for a very pleasant sipping experience. There is good terness emerges. Pair with cedar- planked salmon 90 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Though acidity, with apple, lemon and a bit of tropically, topped with mango salsa. —M.K. not planted until 2001, the east-facing Lone Oak including nicely rounded fruit in the midpalate. A abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Vineyard is adjacent to the legendary vines of dazzling zest continues to the finish as well. —M.K. Garys’ and Rosella’s. The nose conveys lemon-lime abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Testarossa 2012 Brosseau Vineyard Chardon- soda and white rock minerality, and flavors combine 91 nay (Chalone). There’s a fascinating presence baked apple, yeasty bread and lime. Bright acidity Roblar 2012 Gold Collection Chardonnay of herb-roasted chicken to the well-balanced nose exhilarates the tongue, making a perfect partner for 89 (Sta. Rita Hills). Minerality takes center of this Chardonnay from the historic Brousseay a lunch of shellfish, halibut or chicken salad. —M.K. stage on the nose from Roblar’s top-end line of Vineyard, alongside chalky minerality, golden apple abv: 14.2% Price: $45 wines, with limestone and wet slate getting boost and Asian pear. Once sipped, it’s very easy on the from fresh squeezed lemon. On the palate, the crushed rock flavors continue with some pear as
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well, making for a mellow sipping experience. Serve wards the finish, which swirls in lemon and grape- texture is rich in the mouth and the finish is soft. with shellfish, white fish or a soft cheese. —M.K. fruit. —V.B. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $36 abv: 13.8% Price: $11
Starmont 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). This McIntyre Vineyards 2012 McIntrye Estate Cuvée Wine Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Russian 89 Napa-side-of-Carneros Chardonnay is re- 88 Vineyard 25th Anniversary Edition Chardon- 87 River Valley). Oily in green apple and lime, splendent in crisp yet hearty aromas of apple, pear nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Longtime Santa Lucia this crowd-pleasing wine is supple and smooth, and flowery jasmine. Well put-together, it offers Highlands winemaker Steve McIntrye celebrates his with touches of honey and vanilla, especially on the electric acidity and enough rounded texture to pair 25th year of his own vineyard with this 2012, which finish. With a lilting ripeness at its core, it will pair magnificently with food. On the finish is a hint of starts with buttercream and lime aromas. Once well with roasted chicken in herbs. —V.B. tarte Tatin, a tiny seasoning of cinnamon and nut- sipped, flavors of marcona almond, roasted pear, abv: 14.4% Price: $23 meg on top. —V.B. coconut and roasted chicken take hold, making for a abv: 13.5% Price: $22 savory but nicely restrained experience. —M.K. Edna Valley Vineyard 2012 Paragon Char- abv: 14.4% Price: $28 87 donnay (Central Coast). A zesty honeydew Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Foggy Oaks Char- and tropical, nearly pineapple soda nose starts this 88 donnay (Russian River Valley). Light and Michel-Schlumberger 2012 La Brume Char- wine. On the palate, there is apple pie and brisk, crisp, it offers layers of lemon chiffon and spicy 88 donnay (Dry Creek Valley). Flowery and bal- fleeting pineapple, but not much lasting acidity. A pear. The at-first luxurious mouthfeel evolves anced in crisp, dry flavors of lemon and pear, this very easy-drinking deal, especially for the price, smoothly into crisper, citrus-wrapped acidity. This wine takes its designation from the French word for that will pair well with everything from seared scal- is a sippable, ideal summer wine. —V.B. fog, a nod to its cool-climate environs. Supple tan- lops to roasted chicken. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 nins and refined acidity round out the deal. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.9% Price: $32 Gifft 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mon- Firestone 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez 88 terey). Kathie Lee Gifford is just the latest Riverbench 2013 Bedrock Chardonnay (San- 87 Valley). This wine begins with a clean and celebrity to enter the winemaking game, but she 88 ta Maria Valley). An early look at the Char- cool nose featuring green banana and other sub- made a solid partner in Scheid, one of the biggest donnay potential of 2013, the nose on this bottling dued tropical notes as well as salty seaspray. Once vineyard owners in Monterey County. Their Gifft takes off like a perfumed jet plane. Sweet scents of sipped, the tropical side emerges more, with papaya smells fresh and lively, with tangerine and sour white flowers make for a very beautiful, lifting and and guava, as well as overripe peach. Altogether, the grass aromas, followed by a sipping experience full refreshing bouquet. You expect cloying flavors, but alcohol feels a bit high. —M.K. of smoke, oak, lanolin and tan flavors, approaching the wine delivers with a powerful zing of acidity, abv: 14.2% Price: $18 leather and sandalwood. —M.K. bolstered by slight flavors of Gala apple peel and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 sour banana gum, ending with a pear finish. —M.K. Ironstone 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). For peo- abv: 12.04% Price: $24 87 ple who like wines that speak a little softly, Ironstone 2012 Chardonnay (California). try this very moderately priced Chardonnay. Subtle 88 This medium-bodied wine climbs several St. Francis 2012 Wild Oak Vineyard Chardon- aromas and flavors of green apple, honey and al- notches up the quality scale from a typical Califor- 88 nay (Sonoma Valley). A delicate study in mond build slowly as you enjoy the light to medi- nia AVA Chardonnay. It blends ripe pear and butter Golden Delicious apple and ginger undertones, this um body, smooth texture and a finish that hints of aromas, pleasing peach and pear flavors, a texture wine is also hearty in toast and oak, concentrated sweetness. Best Buy. —J.G. that is soft and easy, and a slightly buttery finish. and rich with a clean finish of vanilla and hazelnut. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Best Buy. —J.G. A good call with buttery seafood like fresh-caught abv: 13.5% Price: $12 lobster. —V.B. Karma NV Side View Chardonnay (North abv: 14.2% Price: $26 87 Coast). Like a liquid lemon meringue pie, Kenneth Volk 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Ma- this Chardonnay has bright fruit flavors, lemony 88 ria Valley). Don’t let anyone say that uno- Testarossa 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia acidity and a creamy finish. It smells like ripe apple aked Chardonnays have to be lacking in flavors, as 88 Highlands). Lifting aromas of orange blos- and pineapple, and tastes crisp but but not lean. this bottling from varietal experimenter Kenneth som, night jasmine and pear lead the way. On the Altogether delicious and mouthwatering, and not Volk reveals, perhaps because it was whole-cluster palate, there is a salty character along with freshly nearly as sweet as the pie. —J.G. pressed, cold fermented and aged on the lees. The cut kiwi, exotic spice and a tad of bitter greens on abv: 13.5% Price: $15 nose offers a great curvature of aromas, with apricot the finish. —M.K. and fig leading the experience, followed by flavors of abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Lincourt 2012 Steel Chardonnay (Sta. Rita apple butter, poached pear and lime. —M.K. 87 Hills). There are candied tangerine notes on abv: 14.2% Price: $22 Cambridge California 2012 Chardonnay the tight nose from this twist-off bottling from Wil- 87 (Carneros). Steely with lemon fruit, this liam Foley’s first winery, Lincourt, named after his Laird 2011 Cold Creek Chardonnay (Carne- wine takes some coaxing to reveal itself but is sat- two daughters. On the palate, the slight minerality 88 ros). Full-bodied and swathed in oak, this isfyingly mouth-coating and viscous once it does, washes around lime freshness and a just-ripe green shows the bigger side of Chardonnay, piquant and layered in citrus and a finish of honey. Balanced in pear tang, an introductory example of leaner, acid- luxe with lemon and grapefruit swirls within larger acidity it’ll pair well and widely with food. —V.B. minded Chardonnay. Pair with shellfish appetizers casings of vanilla and caramelized oak. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $19 or a halibut main course. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 abv: 14.1% Price: $18 Crushed 2012 Chardonnay (California). This Ledson 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- 87 fruity and full-bodied wine offers much to Morgan 2012 Highland Chardonnay (Santa 88 ley). This full and heady wine offers marsh- like. The opposite of crisp and lively, it was made in 87 Lucia Highlands). The smell of tart green mallow oak around a core of grapefruit and honeyed an unabashedly ripe and rich style. Pear and butter apple frying in butter introduces this bottling from fruit. With soft acidity, it veers into darker fig and aromas lead to ripe peach and vanilla flavors. The Dan Lee’s historic winery. On the palate, lemon- toasted oak characteristics before lifting again to- lime spritzer and pear flow into a saline minerality
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 in the midpalate, with acidic tartness emerging on and silky, it shows a touch of effervescence from the some air, the texture showing more acidity and bal- the finish. This is a very tight and focused Chardon- bright acidity and is textured from the time spent ance. —V.B. nay. —M.K. in barrel. The finish and lingering aftertaste steer abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: NA Price: $28 sweet, into the land of butterscotch and caramel. —V.B. Campus Oaks 2012 Chardonnay (Lodi). A Savannah-Chanelle 2010 Estate Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $25 80 barrel fermented Chardonnay that is un- 87 (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s so much characteristically soft and fruity. Aromas of bananas age present on the nose that this wine seems like Spin the Bottle 2012 Chardonnay (Califor- and bubble gum lead to slightly sweet, uncompli- it could be a couple years older: candied quince, 86 nia). Mellow, luscious Chardonnay from a cated flavors. The texture and body are light. —J.G. pralines and cream ice cream, toffee and singed new brand. Butterscotch aromas and flavors and abv: 13.1% Price: $10 marshmallow. Once sipped, the age is not quite as a rich, soft texture make this flavorful and easy to present at first, with poached pear leading the way swallow. Warning: Your head may spin looking at and the marshmallow elements in the background. the holographic label. Best Buy. —J.G. VIOGNIER On the finish, there is noticeable booze and wood. It abv: 13.8% Price: $11 is probably passing its peak. —M.K. Boekenoogen 2012 Bell Ranch Estate Viogni- abv: 12.4% Price: $36 Michel-Schlumberger 2012 Gold Collection 93 er (Carmel Valley). For full review see page 5. 85 Chardonnay (Dry Creek Valley). Aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Souverain 2011 Winemaker’s Reserve Char- tropical pineapple and lemon are buried somewhat 87 donnay (Russian River Valley). Nuanced in in this mid-weight wine. Nimble in acidity and Zaca Mesa 2012 Zaca Mesa Vineyard Viognier amped-up ripe pineapple, stone fruit and toasted straightforward in flavor, it finishes a tad abruptly. 89 (Santa Ynez Valley). Kicking off with a tight honey, this is a balanced Chardonnay, well made —V.B. nose of lemongrass and limestone, this is a Viognier from good fruit. It offers a taste of vanilla cream on abv: 14.8% Price: $42 for fans of Sauvignon Blanc. It keeps a razor-sharp the full-bodied finish. —V.B. focus on the palate, with tart apple flavors and zesty abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Twin Arches 2012 Chardonnay (California). acidity that wipes the flavors clean rather quickly, 85 It’s well-suited for supplying a big party but it verges ever so slightly towards a hint of tropi- William James 2012 Sierra Madre Vineyard where there are lots of different tastes to please. A cal papaya. —M.K. 87 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). The soft texture and almost sweet butter and apple fla- abv: 14% Price: $16 nose promises so much that it’s not surprising when vors make this a light confection. Best Buy. —J.G. the flavors overdeliver. The aromas include intoxi- abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Rideau 2012 Reserve Estate Viognier (Santa cating rose, stargazer lily and apricot brandy. Next, 88 Ynez Valley). Only the faint smell of grass the viscous palate combines buttered bread, hard Wattle Creek 2012 Chardonnay (Yorkville emerges from this wine, but the palate is another orange candy and powerful vanilla. There’s not a lot 85 Highlands). A full-bodied wine with a style story, with fresh squeezed lime and brisk nectarine of acidity and the result is nearly cloying. —M.K. that incorporates richness in the aromas and re- flavors. The mouthfeel starts rich and then zips up abv: 14.2% Price: $25 straint in the flavors. It smells sweet and candylike, tight with nice acidity. This vibrant wine needs food but tastes dry and oaky. A touch of walnut on the that’s both rich and exotic, so try Chinese or Indo- Cinnabar 2012 Central Avenue Vineyard palate adds an austerity that is smoothed over on nesian. —M.K. 86 Chardonnay (Monterey). This wine from the finish with a dash of sweet oak. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $41 longtime Santa Cruz Mountains producer Cinnabar abv: 14.1% Price: $25 offers a very subtle nose with slight, brisk mineral- ity. Once sipped, the flavors remain subtle, though Sebastiani 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma SAUVIGNON BLANC are nicely rounded with a bit of guava-based tropi- 84 County). There’s lemon curd and apple in calitythat emerges toward the finish. —M.K. this straightforward, light Chardonnay. Cradled in Armida 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 oak and vanilla, it is mid-weight in both texture and 90 sian River Valley). Full-flavored and tex- body, and a good value for the price. —V.B. tured, probably from the use of a Sauvignon Mus- Edna Valley Vineyard 2012 Fleur de Edna abv: 13.5% Price: $14 que Clone for half of the wine, this is nonetheless 86 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). A deeply golden a light wine, subtle in stone fruit, kiwi and lemon- Chardonnay from E & J Gallo’s Edna Valley brand, Stomping Ground 2012 Chardonnay (Califor- lime. The acidity has an electricity and bubbliness this wine starts with a tightly wound nose, faintly 84 nia). Pleasant and fruity to sip, soft in tex- that almost make it come alive. It’s the right wine offering tart apple, lemon rind and a slight herbal ture, light- to medium bodied, it has a rich yellow- for fresh-shucked oysters. —V.B. character. An elegant but brief flavor of perfumed gold color, butter-candy aromas, ripe apple flavors abv: 14.1% Price: $20 pear washes away quickly without much finish. and a slightly sweet finish. —J.G. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Carr 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- abv: 13.9% Price: $27 90 ley). Rather than pungent green aromas, Vino Vargas 2013 Olé Chardonnay (Central this bottling tends toward a sweeter aromatic pro- Educated Guess 2012 Chardonnay (Napa 84 Coast). There’s pineapple and sharp dill on file, with limeade, mandarin orange and tangerine 86 Valley). The grapes for hail from both the nose of this wine from a Gilroy-based producer. scents. On the palate, there is a slight creaminess Carneros and Oak Knoll and have undergone both Once sipped, apple cider and a tinge of petrol flavors and a nod toward bell pepper, but the tart, bitter barrel and stainless steel fermentation. The result emerge. —M.K. and acidic elements of apple and lime pith combine is a medium-weight to fuller-style of clean, crisp abv: 14.1% Price: $24 memorably. —M.K. lemon and pear flavors, a swirl of tropical vanilla on abv: 13% Price: $18 the finish. —V.B. Waterstone 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). abv: 14.6% Price: $17 84 Concentrated in pleasing pear and stone Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Sauvignon Blanc fruit, the toasty oak and oily richness of this wine 90 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page Gloria Ferrer 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled detracts from the fruit. It comes into its own with 9. Editors’ Choice. 86 Chardonnay (Carneros). Intense in lemon abv: 14.1% Price: $18
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Maisonry 2013 Hudson Vineyard Sans Chêne liant acidity. Serve with freshly shucked oysters and indulges in some tropical guava on the palate, which 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Fermented jalapeno-topped, yuzu-splashed sushi. —M.K. is very soft and full. —M.K. entirely in stainless steel, this is a floral and fruity abv: 13.6% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 wine from a great Carneros vineyard. Offering sharp acidity and rounded flavors of honey and apple, it Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Fumé Blanc (So- Decoy 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coun- begs to be enjoyed with food along the lines of foie 88 noma County). For full review see page 12. 86 ty). Classically aromatic and slightly grassy, gras and fresh oysters. —V.B. Best Buy. it has touches of sweet pineapple and vanilla danc- abv: 14.2% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ing throughout the soft layers of easy-drinking acid- ity and crispness. —V.B. Wrath 2013 Ex Anima Sauvignon Blanc Ousterhout 2013 Redwood Ranch Sauvi- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 (Monterey). The family-owned, Santa Lu- 88 gnon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Bristling in cia Highlands-focused Wrath Winery produces acidity and steely in wet stone, this SB is crisp and Foppiano 2012 Estate Bottled Sauvignon their Ex Anima line to show off wines from their layered in lemon, with more lemon on the finish. It 86 Blanc (Russian River Valley). Here is a estate San Saba Vineyard made with very little yearns for shellfish. —V.B. steely, bright Sauvignon Blanc that’s rounded in intervention and no new oak. This wine is nearly abv: 13.5% Price: $22 citrus, melon and herbal flavors, finishing clean and as clear as water, and yet offers aromas or freshly with ample acidic lift. —V.B. cut grass, honeydew melon, kiwi and fresh rain on St. Francis 2013 Uboldi Vineyard Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $15 rocks. On the palate, minerality lingers alongside 88 Blanc (Sonoma Valley). Almost clear in poached pear and peach. Refreshing and light, yet color and faintly aromatic, it offers nuanced layers Schug 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma full of flavor. —M.K. of pineapple, guava and pear. A suggestion of bar- 86 Coast). Exotic strips of lemon zest mark abv: 13.3% Price: $19 rel fermentation makes it mid-weight and fuller in this wine, followed by intense acidity that begs for body. The finish is creamy and swathed in herb, an food to tame it down. The vineyards involved are on Honig 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). ideal companion to shellfish. —V.B. the cooler side. Expect spice and tangy grapefruit to 89 Flowery and electric in high-toned grape- abv: 14.2% Price: $22 glide on the finish. —V.B. fruit and peach, this is a crisp, clean white from a abv: 13.8% Price: $20 consistent producer. Medium-bodied, it holds small Ziata 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). percentages of Sémillon and Muscat. The finely 88 The beautiful floral nose is inviting and in- Simi 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coun- hewed texture benefits from 10% of the wine hav- toxicating. In taste, it offers lemon, quince, plenty of 86 ty). With smidgens of Viognier and Sémil- ing been aged in neutral oak. —V.B. acidity and a long finish, a touch of grass and vanil- lon, this wine offers aromas of sweet jasmine and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 la-sugar just slightly in the background. Complexity fig, and is bright with some heft on the palate. With makes the wine intriguing. —V.B. suggestions of tropical fruit and apricot, the acidity Kunde 2013 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.5% Price: $34 is subtle. —V.B. 89 (Sonoma Valley). Dry and layered in crisp abv: 13.5% Price: $14 melon, lime and lemon zest, this aromatic SB is Cuvée Wine Cellars 2012 Sauvignon Blanc complex and kissed by honeysuckle. It’s a natu- 87 (Russian River Valley). Sweet honeysuckle St. Francis 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma ral go-to for shellfish, especially Hog Island oys- and fresh-cut grass open up on the nose, before 86 County). A straightforward, nicely priced ters from the coast near Point Reyes. A warm goat high-toned grapefruit and peach hit on the mid- wine offering mid-weight texture amidst grapefruit, cheese salad would also do nicely. —V.B. palate. There’s a mellowness to the finish, where lime and peach flavors and aromas. It’s an easy- abv: 13.8% Price: $17 grapefruit comes back to the fore, sprinkled in to-like quaffer for summertime or to enjoy before honey. —V.B. meals. —V.B. Longboard 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian abv: 14.1% Price: $18 abv: 13.9% Price: $13 89 River Valley). Dry and refreshing, it’s steely in stone fruit and pineapple. The acidity is clean Dealy Lane 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- White Oak 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian and bright but not so overpowering that the wine 87 ley). Smooth and bright, this fruity Sauvi- 86 River Valley). This well-integrated wine de- won’t develop more nuance over time. It balances gnon Blanc offers vanilla and tropical coconut, with livers intoxicating aromas of jasmine, tangerine and well between cool-climate minerality, an underpin- medium levels of acidity and weight. The finish re- peach. These intertwine citrus-y minerality with a ning of herb and fresh California fruit. —V.B. visits the sun-kissed tropical theme. —V.B. candied sweetness, especially on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.7% Price: $18 abv: 14.1% Price: $17
Ancient Peaks 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Kenwood 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Fiddlehead Cellars 2013 Goosebury Sauvi- 88 Robles). Cut grass, green apple and crisp 87 County). Fragrant, floral and mouthfilling, 85 gnon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Bar- stone fruit comprise the aromas on this wine from this easy-to-love wine is a crowd pleaser. Notes of bara). From owner/winemaker Kathy Joseph, the a rocky block of the Margarita Vineyard, a cool spot sweet peach, citrus and vanilla are not overly done wine has subdued tartness on the nose, and green just 14 miles from the ocean. The flavors balance be- in any way. It offers juicy minerality and generous apple and citrus elements on the palate. Stone fruit tween the perceived sweetness of baked apple and fruit. Best Buy. —V.B. emerges quickly when poured, but the wine loses cherimoya and the bitter tannic tension of a grape abv: 13.5% Price: $12 such nuance as it sits in the glass. It’s a good brunch leaf. —M.K. wine to serve with frittata. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Alma Sol 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Ro- abv: 12.9% Price: $34 86 bles). John Shaw and Lisa Cuevas Shaw Buttonwood Farm 2013 Zingy Estate Grown run this boutique-sized, Bordeaux-minded winery, Novy 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). But- which offers this Sauvignon Blanc alongside their 85 Valley). Creamy and nutty, this wine offers tonwood’s accurately named Zingy boasts an excit- higher priced reds. This wine starts with lemon- ample herbaceous qualities around muted melon ing amount of verve on both the nose and palate. grass, crushed rock and white flower aromas, then and citrus, finishing with ample lift and refresh- Fresh aromas of passionfruit juice and guava trans- ment. —V.B. late to zesty flavors of Granny Smith apple and bril- abv: 13.1% Price: $19
56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Pangloss Cellars 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (So- of vanilla and a touch of bitterness, but the over- colder reaches of the Russian River Valley’s smaller 85 noma County). There’s a layer of sweetness riding flavor is smokiness, reminiscent of the rustic Green Valley area, it’s Alsatian in its crispness and to this viscous wine, which exudes aromas of gra- Mexican liquor, Mezcal. This could easily handle linear intensity, clean and long-lingering in lemon ham cracker and pear, finishing in a light coating of pork carnitas. —M.K. zest. —V.B. lemon. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Uvaggio 2013 Zelo Bianco (Napa-Carneros). Solminer 2013 Riesling (Santa Barbara Rochioli 2013 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc 90 This intriguing combination of Pinot Grigio 92 County). Chalk, apricot honey and wisps of 85 (Russian River Valley). A whiff of petrol (70%) holds smaller traces of Traminer and Mosca- gasoline lead the aroma profile on this wine from leads off on this oaky, full-figured white, which is to Giallo. The nose is powerfully led by the Moscato, electronic music DJ David deLaski and his wife, creamy and textured with a touch of sweetness on so floral and spicy in jasmine and briny seaside that Anna. The couple have been making wine since the finish. —V.B. it almost suggests Vermentino. Textured and light, 2012 with the help of Steve Clifton (of Brewer-Clif- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 it offers strong flavors of pear and a long, crisp -fin ton & Palmina wines). On the palate, there is strong ish. —V.B. mandarin orange-driven acidity and remnants of Sebastiani 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $20 the chalkiness, which together should give the wine 83 County). Aged in stainless steel, this faint aging potential. Drink today or buy a case and try SB is herb-y and slightly grassy. Sweetness on the Clos La Chance 2013 Hadley’s Cuvee (Central every year to track what will be an insightful evolu- midpalate sticks around before the quick finish. 89 Coast). It’s uncommon to find Grenache tion. Cellar Selection. —M.K. —V.B. Noir in a white blend, but it’s a tasty experiment abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 nonetheless. Well rounded and evenly presented, the nose of lemon and honeysuckle is prominent but Flying Goat Cellars 2013 Sierra Madre Vine- Taj 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). delicate. The slightly oily palate comes alive with 91 yard Pinot Gris (Santa Maria Valley). There’s a 82 Flavors of sour grapefruit and almond are vanilla, pear candy, peach and bubblegum, finishing slightly pink hue to this wine from Lompoc’s Nor- somewhat masked by the amped-up oak. —V.B. with a brush of acidity. —M.K. man Yost. The nose is bright and minerally, with abv: 14.6% Price: $27 abv: 14.8% Price: $22 strawberry, apple cider and slight watermelon aro- mas. There’s even more going on once sipped, with Demetria 2012 Cuvée Papou (Santa Ynez pear spritzer and citrus zest playing along with gray WHITE BLENDS 89 Valley). There is a vividly refreshing nose rocks and elements both bitter and sour. It’s a re- to this biodynamic wine, full of aromatic lift from freshing take on a grape that doesn’t always get the Billhook 2012 White Wine (Santa Barbara brisk stone fruit and white rock minerality. It’s full rock star treatment. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 92 County). From veteran Crawford Malone, on the mouth, nicely balanced with no edges stick- abv: 13.9% Price: $22 this bottling delivers appetizing aromas of honey- ing out at all, and just a tad of tart apple on the fin- comb and Key lime pie. The honeyed citrus flavors ish. —M.K. Vino Vargas 2013 Del Sol Roussanne (Central persist onto the flavorful palate, finishing with a abv: 13.4% Price: $32 88 Coast). Aromas of butterscotch, smoked touch of honeydew melon. It’s great right now, but almonds and oak take the lead. On the palate, it’s also shows potential for holding until 2016 or more Barrack 2012 Happy Canyon Vineyards Blanc crisper than expected, with lightly toasted hazelnut, in the cellar. —M.K. 87 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This emergent apples on the midpalate and a lingering abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend hits the nose with finish. —M.K. near-petrol scents, and then slides into a slightly abv: 13.8% Price: $24 Carol Shelton 2012 Coquille Blanc (Paso sour orange juice zone. On the palate, that citrusy 91 Robles). At first, the nose on this refresh- intrigue continues into a lime zest finish. It’s a vi- Michel-Schlumberger 2012 La Bise Pinot ing blend of Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, Viognier brant, refreshing sipper, though it leans on tingling 85 Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Slightly salty, it re- and Marsanne is ethereal, but then it centralizes on acidity more than overall balance. Serve with cacio veals highlights of fig and oak amidst a crisp, clean, white peach with a touch of vanilla and buttercream. e pepe pasta, raw oysters, or anything needing a relatively low-in-alcohol profile. It’ll serve well with It hits the palate with a zing, delivering banana- lemony boost. —M.K. seafood and salads and as a straightforward sipping cream tropicality and some bitterness, cinching up abv: 14.1% Price: $36 wine on its own. —V.B. a bit on the finish. It would go well with a picnic of abv: 12.9% Price: $24 cheese, charcuterie and fresh bread. —M.K. Quadrant 2011 Gold (Paso Robles). A kitch- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 86 en sink blend of white grapes, it comes together with interesting if slightly disjointed ef- SPARKLING WINES Oso Libre 2012 Volado (Paso Robles). The fects. There is honey and slight buttercream on 90 distinct and alluring scents of dried, salted the nose (likely from the Chardonnay lead). Once Domaine Carneros 2007 Le Rêve Blanc de apricot take the lead in this blend of Viognier, Rou- sipped, lush fruit comes to the fore, characterized 91 Blancs (Carneros). Domaine Carneros’s fin- sanne and Marsanne. Once sipped, it’s slightly less by caramelized pear (probably the Viognier). On top est Blanc de Blancs blend, it is made entirely from viscous than other Rhône whites of this vintage, but of that, there is tangy acidity and slight tarriness. estate-grown fruit. This 2007 is distinguished by a bit more savory and very well balanced in its hon- —M.K. complex layers of pear compote and ginger spice— eyed flavors. Serve with chicken enchiladas or chile abv: 13.8% Price: $16 round, soft and still well-toned in acidity. As it ages verde. —M.K. expect more of the almond-hazelnut undertones to abv: 14.5% Price: $32 take center stage, a delightful accompaniment to OTHER WHITE WINES fruit desserts, creamy French cheeses or salty shell- Refugio Ranch 2011 Ineseño (Santa Ynez fish. —V.B. 90 Valley). Winemaker Ryan Deovlet isn’t Dutton-Goldfield 2013 Dutton Ranch Shop abv: 12% Price: $99 afraid of prominent oak, so this comes on with a 92 Block Pinot Blanc (Green Valley). Fresh in luscious butterscotch nose, and it immediately peach with an herbal, savory edge, this wine begs to Domaine Carneros NV Cuvée de la Pompa- smells like it will be a silky wine. It is, with accents be analyzed and enjoyed over many sips. From the 90 dour Brut Rosé (Carneros). Named for a par-
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amour of Louis XV, this Brut Rosé paints a beautiful marks the finish. Enjoy with a picnic, especially goat Rocca 2010 Grigsby Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- picture, dark strawberry pink in hue. Blended from cheese and charcuterie. —V.B. 93 gnon (Yountville). For full review see page 5. 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay with a dos- abv: 13.4% Price: $25 Cellar Selection. age of 1.1%, this is a dry, quaffable sparkler, offering abv: 14.9% Price: $85 racy acidity and mellowed tones of wild strawberry Wines Gone Wild 2013 Dragonsleaf Vineyard compote and juicy peach. Drink now or later at out- 89 Dry Rosé (Sonoma Mountain). Juicy and in- World’s End 2010 Crossfire Beckstoffer Mis- door brunches or while cooking a meal. —V.B. viting, dark ruby in color, this racy rosé made from 93 souri Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 12% Price: $36 Syrah grapes is nuanced with tropical guava and (Oakville). A heady mix of herbs, cedar and milk peach that linger on the palate. Dry, it’ll pair with chocolate, it’s generous in black cherry and spicy lounges on the porch or by the pool. Best Buy. —V.B. pepper, a worthwhile textural challenge to the ROSÉS abv: 13.5% Price: $13 tongue and the mind, complex and layered. With smoky, heavy tannins, it’ll enjoy some time to think Inman Family 2013 Endless Crush Rosé of Balletto 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian in the cellar, the finish still rich and thick. Cellar 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Kathleen 88 River Valley). Salmon-colored, this subtle, Selection. —V.B. Inman has gained such a following with her Rosé nuanced and dry rosé comes from a reputable pro- abv: 14.9% Price: $100 that she’s given it a special designation, a nod to her ducer of Pinot Noir. It’s structured in wild straw- happy marriage. Made in a saignée style, the dry, re- berry exuberance and plenty of minerality. The fin- Concannon 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon freshing wine is light salmon in color and marked ish repeats the burst of strawberry with a cherry 91 (Livermore Valley). For full review see page 7. by aromatic grapefruit and strawberry, mouthfilling chaser and squeeze of lime. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 and juicy as a slice of watermelon in summer. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Christine Andrew 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Terra Valentine 2013 Rosé (Napa Valley). 90 (Sierra Foothills). An impressive young Ousterhout 2013 Woods Vineyard Rosé of Pi- 87 This darker-salmon-colored rosé combines Cabernet from a region not well known for Cabs. 91 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Peach-blush Sangiovese and Pinot Noir in equal proportion. The first impression is a complex aroma of herb, in color, this is a light, lean wine, gorgeous in citrus It delivers faint aromatics of nectarine and rustic dark cherry and dark chocolate that continues and wet stone minerality. Layers of strawberry and cherry, the color reflecting the burly properties of through to the palate. The texture is laced well with watermelon linger on the tongue throughout the Napa Valley Sangiovese. Dry, with racy acidity, it fine, firm tannins that will make it great with rich crisp finish. Open and enjoy whenever you need a has grip on the finish. —V.B. meat and cheese dishes. Overall it is concentrated hit of summer. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 and full-bodied, big but balanced. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Barefoot Refresh NV Perfectly Pink (Califor- Naughty Boy 2013 Dry Rosé of Pinot Noir 86 nia). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. Concannon 2010 Mother Vine Cabernet Sau- 90 (Potter Valley). Brightly pink in color, this abv: 9.5% Price: $8 90 vignon (Livermore Valley). Made in an as- dry rosé is more flavorful and assertive than it sertive, firmly tannic style without being too high in looks. It layers red fruit aromas such as cherry and alcohol, the reserve-tier wine from one of the oldest raspberry on top of equally bright fruit flavors, all CALIFORNIA wineries in California layers spicy, toasty oak flavors carried into the finish with lip-smacking acidity. from French and American barrels over a base of Editors’ Choice. —J.G. RED WINES ripe cherry. A bold wine for a bold meal. This should abv: 12.6% Price: $18 age well; perhaps best from 2015–2020. —J.G. CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Ousterhout 2013 800 Vines Vineyard Rosé 90 of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From Louis M. Martini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Oso Libre 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- a dark bottle, this salmon-colored rosé is medium- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For 90 gnon-Merlot (Paso Robles). Chalk, cherry, bodied and made in a bigger style than many oth- full review see page 4. crushed clove and nutmeg are all present on the ers. Fully textured, it discloses flavorful touches of abv: 15.2% Price: $85 nose from this 81% Cabernet Sauvignon / 19% crunchy pear and cranberry. It would go well with a Merlot from Paso Robles’ Westside. It’s juicy and goat cheese salad adorned in dried cranberries and World’s End 2010 If Six Was Nine Reserve vibrant once sipped, with deep red fruits and a cherries. —V.B. 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full blackberry finish. The wine isn’t particularly com- abv: 13.2% Price: $25 review see page 5. plicated wine and there’s isn’t much tannic back- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 bone for long cellaring, but it’s tasty, approachable Horse & Plow 2013 Made With Organic and easy-drinking now. —M.K. 89 Grapes Rosé (North Coast). Despite the Paul Hobbs 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 15.5% Price: $52 delicate salmon color, the flavors of this medium- 93 Valley). Paul Hobbs coaxes beautifully clas- bodied rosé have a bit of the breadth and depth of a sic Cab aromas and textures from this wine, which Robert John 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa red wine. The texture is smooth, and the flavors lean comes from the tricky 2011 vintage. Expect black 90 Valley). Rich in cassis and black pepper- towards savory and earthy rather than out-and-out currant, olive, cassis and peppercorn to intermin- corn, grapes for this wine came from Stagecoach fruity. It will be good as an apéritif and even better gle on the palate amidst soft elegance, the perfect Vineyard as well as other Napa Valley superstar with a meal. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. balance between fruity and herbal. On the finish a sources. It delivers layers of medium-weight black- abv: 13.2% Price: $18 dusting of mocha turns up the dial on deliciousness. berry and currant fruit, developed tannins and a —V.B. signature taste of dusty minerals and rock. Small Ousterhout 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian abv: 14.4% Price: $100 amounts of Merlot and Petit Verdot are blended in. 89 River Valley). Peach-blush in color, this is a —V.B. pretty, floral and aromatic wine, dry and delicious abv: 14.7% Price: $80 in peach and strawberry flavors. A hint of herbs
58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Star Lane Vineyard 2009 Astral Cabernet Schug 2010 Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sau- Crushed 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- 90 Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Bar- 88 vignon (Sonoma Valley). A Cabernet with 85 nia). Freshness and a bit of tannic bite lend bara). Black as night in the glass, this heavy duty, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Ver- some character to this well-behaved, attractively Cabernet-led Bordeaux blend from one of the most dot blended in, all from Sonoma Valley’s Rancho fruity red wine. That touch of tannin—very typical visually stunning properties on the Central Coast is Salina Vineyard, this wine is medium in weight and and welcome in Cabernet Sauvignon—lends some loaded with rich, luscious fruit and tannins that are viscous. A nice mix of cedar and herbs play against grip in the texture to help this wine wash down your built to last. There are stewed plums on the nose savory cranberry and tobacco. The balanced acidity food. The wine conveys a balanced taste impression with warm slices of blueberry pie on the palate. gives it a lift. —V.B. overall. —J.G. Wait until at least 2019 for full enjoyment. Cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.8% Price: $11 Selection. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $80 Firestone 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Kirkland Signature 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Ynez Valley). Classic Cabernet Sauvignon 85 (Napa Valley). This dense Cab is chewy on Hanna 2011 Red Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon aromas of cherry, chalk and tobacco serve as the the palate with highlights of green olive, sour cherry 89 (Alexander Valley). A hearty Cabernet rich aromatic introduction to this reliable deal from and minty tobacco. It’s fairly priced and approach- in cranberry and cassis with streaks of earthy cedar Firestone, now one of the many wineries owned by able. —V.B. and a pleasant herbal undertone. The tannins are William Foley. There’s an Old World mustiness once abv: 14.5% Price: $20 young still, pleading to wait until 2017–2019 in the sipped, along with a touch of vanilla and smooth bottle, or for some air before enjoying. —V.B. tannins. —M.K. Fazeli Cellars 2009 Khayyam Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $22 84 vignon (Temecula Valley). Complicated, at times confusingly dank aromas of mushrooms, Honrama 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Mazzocco 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry hops, dill and other wet herbs emerge from this bot- 89 Valley). Heady aromas suggest cinnamon 87 Creek Valley). There’s a grippy quality to this tling. Those atypical varietal characters find their and clove wrapped around black cherry and choco- Cab, which has flavors of bright red cranberry, lico- way onto the palate as well, with olive and stewed late. Silky on the palate, it’s structured in juicy red rice and soy, along with ample structure and a soft mushrooms leading the way. —M.K. fruit and black licorice, lingering on the balanced finish. —V.B. abv: 15.7% Price: $50 finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $38 Leaping Horse 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Castle Rock 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso 84 (California). It’s easy to drink this medium- Laird 2011 Flat Rock Ranch Cabernet Sauvi- 86 Robles). For full review see page 12. Best bodied, pleasant Cabernet and enjoy the light herb 89 gnon (Napa Valley). Layered in ripe red fruit Buy. and cherry flavors. Not tannic in spite of 10% Tan- like cassis and currant, it offers smoothness amidst abv: 13.5% Price: $11 nat grapes blended in, it feels soft and tastes mild grippy tannins and savory suggestions of toasty oak, on the finish. —J.G. black tea and soy. All need air and time to develop Clayhouse 2012 Red Cedar Vineyard Caber- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 more fully. Pair with a classic pepper steak and gar- 86 net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Wispy hints licky mashed potatoes. —V.B. of cherry and clove kick off this good deal wine. Bridlewood 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso abv: 14.8% Price: $85 Tastes range from juicy red fruit up front with some 83 Robles). Dusty aromas comprise the dull crushed purple flowers to a very tight vanilla-laced nose on this bottling. Once sipped, there isn’t a lot St. Francis 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- finish. —M.K. of distinct flavor, save for some blackberry notes. It 89 noma County). This is a superb Cab at this abv: 13.78% Price: $14 will work for a backyard barbecue of ribs and saucy price and case production level, tasting like one chicken. —M.K. much smaller in production. With hearty tannins, Ironstone 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- abv: 13.9% Price: $15 it offers nuanced cranberry fruit and notable acid- 86 nia). A fruit bomb of a Cabernet that has ity, full body and a finish combining black olive and a lot of the things we love about Zinfandel. It has Silver Spoon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- tobacco. Ready to enjoy now, it’ll be just as good a deep, saturated color, jammy aromas, very ripe 83 fornia). A soft, simple style of Cabernet with 2017–2019. —V.B. cherry flavors laced with maple syrup and a seem- mild cherry and strawberry flavors, light tannins, abv: 14.2% Price: $20 ingly sweet finish. Juicy and delicious on its own or smooth texture and light- to medium-body. The fla- with casual meals. —J.G. vors fade quickly on the finish. —J.G. Girasole 2010 Made With Organic Grapes abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.8% Price: $16 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. Stomping Ground 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Twin Arches 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 86 (California). It’s rich enough to satisfy our 83 fornia). An easy-drinking, weekday type of craving for fruit flavor and firm enough in texture red wine that is smooth and light in texture and Laird 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- to pair well with roasts and filling pasta. It seems to body, and modestly flavored with notes of plum and 88 ley). Grippy and dense in black fruit, lico- have benefited from more time aging in a cellar than dried herbs. —J.G. rice, soy and black tea this intense 100% Cabernet most red wines at this price do. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 needs further time to come entirely into its own. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Decant or open an hour or so before enjoying. Its Spin the Bottle 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon savory undertones will pair well with grilled steak, Ancient Peaks 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 82 (California). Good red wine in a light, herba- ribs or burgers. —V.B. 85 (Paso Robles). Smoke, plum jelly and a ceous style. Tastes fresh and clean as if it was made abv: 14.8% Price: $58 touch of violet form the aromas for this offering. with good quality standards. Lacks much Cabernet The tannins are nicely thick, with prominent flavor character, however, but adds sufficient cherry and Mettler Family Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown profile of unsweetened blackberry jam. This meaty berry flavors to make it complete. —J.G. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review wine will improve with a bit more time in the bottle, abv: 13.8% Price: $11 see page 10. so hold off until 2016. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $25 abv: 13.3% Price: $17
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got some tannic grip, so could be one to put away raspberry and black cherry lead to cinnamon and CABERNET FRANC until 2016. —M.K. clove on the tasty finish, which lasts a long time. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 Should pair well with most meats and with tomato- Happy Canyon Vineyard 2012 Chukker Cab- based sauces. —J.G. 90 ernet Franc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barba- McIntyre Vineyards 2012 Kimberly Merlot abv: 14.5% Price: $20 ra). An easy drinking, lightly colored wine, it offers 86 (Arroyo Seco). Aromas of freshly cracked bright red fruit, white pepper and a bit of green pep- pepper and boysenberry introduce this wine. Once Jessie’s Grove 2011 Westwind Old Vine Zinfan- per on the nose. These are followed by cranberry, sipped, the promised complexity slips away, with 91 del (Lodi). Here’s an excellent example of a cherry and strawberry on the palate, bolstered by a plum flavors and even tannins but not much linger- dry Zinfandel that doesn’t need to drink like a Port pinch of green herbs. Often served slightly chilled, ing finish. Serve with burgers and meatloaf. —M.K. in terms of its balance. The aromas are subtle, sug- it’s best served alongside Argentinian barbecue abv: 14.5% Price: $22 gesting blackberries, but the flavors go deep into on the polo field—such as the Happy Canyon one more blackberries, ripe red cherries and Santa Rosa owned by the brand’s founder Thomas Barrack. Cel- plums accented with just a dash of cinnamon-like lar Selection. —M.K. ZINFANDEL oak. This is full-bodied yet deceptively smooth and abv: 13.5% Price: $21 elegant in texture. —J.G. Deaver 2010 Signature Primitivo (Amador abv: 15.5% Price: $32 Leoness 2011 Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Tem- 94 County). This wine is a dark garnet color, 89 ecula Valley). An alluring combination of dense to the rim, with potent blackberry and dark Pessagno Winery 2011 Zinfandel (San Benito smoked meats and roasted peppers—think chile cherry aromas. Delicious and pure blackberry and 91 County). A lighter style Zinfandel, it’s also relleno with chorizo—frame the the aromas of this boysenberry flavors linger through the finish. It’s lighter in color. Aromas align more with fresh bottling, alongside espresso, mocha and fresh cigar. big and bold but the power is in the magnificent minerality than deep fruit, though there is tobac- Once sipped, there’s a smooth mouthfeel with cedar fruit flavors rather than tannin, oak or alcohol. Edi- co, plum jam and some pepper on the nose. Once and cherry flavors, a touch of oregano and an oaky tors’ Choice. —J.G. sipped, cranberry and pomegranate compete for the vanilla sense on the finish. The 19% Merlot evens abv: 14.5% Price: $27 fruit side, while cedar and pepper form the spice el- things out. —M.K. ement. It’s great for sipping on the porch and shows abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Deaver 2010 Signature Zinfandel (Amador how Zinfandel can be impressively lean, even with 93 County). The power and richness of Port fill 14.7% alcohol. Cellar Selection. —M.K. Savannah-Chanelle 2010 Estate Cabernet this extreme—and extremely delicious—Zinfandel. abv: 14.7% Price: $24 83 Franc (Santa Cruz Mountains). Pipe tobacco, It is very deep in color and vivid in aroma, like the raspberry reduction and a sweet sagebrush charac- scent of ripe grapes at the crusher on harvest day. Proulx 2011 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This ter promise an interesting experience. Once sipped, It fills the mouth with apparent sweetness that lin- 91 family-owned winery comes out swinging the overwhelmingly sweet cherry, cough-syrup fla- gers long on the finish. Perfect match for after din- with this blend of 81% Zinfandel backed by bits of vor pushes this wine beyond a dry, and the typical ner with blue cheese and toasted walnuts, or a cigar. Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah, casting aromas Cabernet Franc herbs that emerge in the midpalate —J.G. of boysenberry, cola and freshly cut grilled rib eye. don’t overwhelm its cloying nature. Good for des- abv: 15.5% Price: $28 On the palate, it’s smooth and evenly balanced with sert, by itself. —M.K. blackberry pie, vanilla and milk chocolate, offering abv: 15% Price: $50 Proulx 2011 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). El- the perfect partner for barbecued ribs and flame- 93 egant on the nose, it offers aromas settling broiled steak. Cellar Selection. —M.K. between violet, white pepper and chai tea. The 5% abv: 14.9% Price: $52 MERLOT Petite Sirah adds a nice touch of viscosity to the palate. The flavors range from cinnamon to licorice Renwood 2011 Premier Old Vine Zinfandel Carivintas 2012 Merlot (Santa Barbara with nice bitterness and acidity, making the fruits 91 (Amador County). For full review see page 8. 91 County). Solvang’s family- and pet-friendly of plum and prune almost an afterthought.Editors’ abv: 15% Price: $20 Carivintas Winery is dedicated to rescuing dogs Choice. —M.K. that have been cast aside, but they focus on making abv: 14.9% Price: $24 Adelaida 2011 Michael’s Estate Reserve Zin- quality wine too. That cares shows in this Merlot, 90 fandel (Paso Robles). You’d never guess which smells rich and thick like a Chinese plum- Carol Shelton 2012 Wild Thing Old Vine Zin- that this was rocking it so hard with 16.3% alco- hoisin sauce, with some minerality peeking through. 92 fandel (Mendocino). For full review see page hol, as this wine achieves balance in the face of such On the palate, it’s medium bodied with more plum 6. boozy contents. The nose holds a blackberry core jam and clove elements. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 with rusty, spicier edges of star anise. These are fol- abv: 13.9% Price: $32 lowed by a palate of black cherry and cedar, with Za Zin 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). One enough tannins to ensure evolving drinking until at Firestone 2010 Merlot (Santa Ynez Valley). 92 of the “12 Zins of Lodi 2014,” it was cho- least 2018. —M.K. 90 For full review see page 9. sen in a judging by the Lodi Winegrape Commission abv: 16.3% Price: $50 abv: 14.8% Price: $20 to represent the region’s finest. The deep red-black color is saturated to the rim. Deep, evocative aro- Carol Shelton 2010 Karma Zin Bastoni Vine- Cinnabar 2012 El Pomar District Merlot (Paso mas lead to ripe cherry, boysenberry, chocolate and 90 yard Zinfandel (Sonoma County). From a 88 Robles). The Santa Cruz Mountains-based nutmeg flavors that echo on the finish. The texture field blend of Zinfandel, Alicante Bouschet and Pe- winery Cinnabar turns to two vineyards (PMR and is full and smooth. —J.G. tite Sirah, this wine is brick-red and earthy, invit- Twin Oaks) for this intriguing take on Merlot. It abv: 14% Price: $15 ing in dark, brambly fruit and just-right spice. With begins with a lifting herbal nose of sagebrush and soft tannins and a long finish, it’s classic Sonoma tobacco. Next it carries into soft black cherry fruit Ironstone 2010 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel County Zin, fruity and in balance. —V.B. on the palate, with vanilla flavors on the finish. It’s 91 (Lodi). The wildness and heat of Zinfandel abv: 14.8% Price: $33 are restrained to good effect in this elegant, supple but concentrated version. Aromas and flavors of
60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Deaver 2010 Zinfandel (Amador County). aromas of toasted bread, maple syrup and smoked Campus Oaks 2011 Zinfandel (Lodi). It tastes 90 A full-bodied but not over-the-top Zin bacon. The flavors say ripe strawberries and sweet 86 lush, slightly sweet and full-on fruity, but that is deliciously fruity, tasting like raspberry jam blackberry jam, and the finish is sweet and spicy at has a lavish oak overlay. The aromas are sweet cher- and fresh blueberries. No overt oak flavors mask the same time. Best Buy. —J.G. ries and maple syrup, the fruit flavors come out as the pure enjoyment of well-ripened and carefully abv: 14.5% Price: $12 just-crushed grapes and cherries sprinkled with the fermented grapes. It’s extremely smooth, ever so brown sugar of new oak. Not heavy in texture and slightly sweet and has a rich, lingering finish. —J.G. Girasole 2010 Made With Organic Grapes Zin- not as full-bodied as the flavors would make you abv: 16% Price: $26 88 fandel (Mendocino). For full review see page think. —J.G. 12. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Decoy 2012 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). For abv: 13.5% Price: $13 90 full review see page 8. Matrix 2011 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Helwig 2011 Zinfandel (Amador County). 86 Looming in huge black fruit, this is a dark, 88 Tasty from start to finish, this medium- to heavy Zin intense in toasty oak and brambly, dusty Navarro 2011 Zinfandel (Mendocino). Very full-bodied Zinfandel offers a velvety texture, finely amounts of ripe blackberry and strawberry jam. 90 fruity and nearly dry, this full-bodied red integrated tannins that give grip but not bitterness, Dark chocolate hammers in hard on the finish, with wine expresses pure Zinfandel character in a memo- and ripe cherry and strawberry flavors. A moderate black pepper and raisins. —V.B. rable way without intrusive oak. An aroma of just- dose of maple and cinnamon flavor come from aging abv: 14.9% Price: $24 crushed grapes leads to a fresh raspberry-like flavor with oak. —J.G. that is just wild enough to transcend the ordinary abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Wilson 2011 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). and just tannic enough to clean your taste buds and 86 Dark in color, this soft, leathery Zin of- bring you back for more sips. —J.G. Joseph Jewell 2010 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel fers tangents of blackberry, chocolate and espresso abv: 14.4% Price: $20 88 (Dry Creek Valley). Concentrated in bright within a heavy-handed package of serious fruit and red fruit, it has a straight line of peppery spice that’s weight. —V.B. Ousterhout 2011 Nance’s Vineyard Zinfandel intriguing. The structure is big-boned and powerful, abv: 15.9% Price: $28 90 (Alexander Valley). Exuberant in red fruit, yet the finish refreshing and balanced. At 1,000- this is a softly textured Zinfandel, high in acidity feet in elevation, the vineyard has rocky soils, and Pezzi King 2011 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). with evolved tannins, layered, complex and food- there’s a hint of rockiness in the taste. —V.B. 85 Grippy, it has power and loads of chocolaty friendly. The imprint of red berry and brambly abv: 14.8% Price: $33 pepper, jammy blackberry and strawberry fruit, and blackberry juiciness is joined by swirls of nuanced a dull, toasty finish. —V.B. vanilla and a touch of oak. There’s a sprinkling of Kobler 2012 Unti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry abv: 15.4% Price: $22 black pepper on the palate, too. —V.B. 88 Creek Valley). There’s an intriguing tension abv: 14.3% Price: $29 to this wine, shiny in plum and a taste of cherry pie. Mazzocco 2011 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Soft and structured, it should develop more nuance 84 This intense, slightly sour Zinfandel com- Zinhead 2011 Zinfandel (Lodi). At first, all and complexity in the bottle, but serves exception- bines herbal/menthol aromas with a taste of vanil- 90 you sense is a heavy, operatic costume of ally well right now as a companion to risotto or ar- la-toasted marshmallow, the fruit jammy and minty. chocolaty, smoky, coffee-like oak flavors. Under- tisan pizza. —V.B. —V.B. neath these, a ripe and slightly sweet boysenberry abv: 14.4% Price: $32 abv: 15.5% Price: $21 soul keeps the drama going. Like a sturdy stage set, the richly laced tannins support the fruit and oak Mettler Family Vineyards 2011 Epicenter Old until the curtain falls. —J.G. 88 Vines Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review see SYRAH abv: 15.5% Price: $25 page 10. abv: 15.9% Price: $20 William James 2009 Hampton Family Vine- Deaver 2010 Ten Zin Zinfandel (Amador 93 yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Jumping out 89 County). Medium- to full-bodied, it’s very Armida 2012 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel of the glass with intoxicating aromas of cracked smooth, well polished and easy to enjoy. Not too 87 (Dry Creek Valley). Silky in black and red cherry cordials, this wine comes from the small pro- ripe or too sweet, but sophisticated in style, it deliv- berry fruit, this young Zin from a great, dry-farmed duction of Robin Bogue, whose father, Bill Bogue, is ers moderately ripe raspberry and blueberry flavors, eastside Dry Creek vineyard offers notable acidity a well-known vineyard consultant. Flavors start soft tannins and a lingering fruity finish. —J.G. amidst a still-grippy mouthfeel. Layered, it would with grilled meatiness, slowly slip to licorice on the abv: 14.8% Price: $30 make a luxurious pairing for grilled ribs in an Asian- midpalate and finish between vanilla and leather. spiced glaze. —V.B. Altogether a richly nuanced and deeply luscious Harney Lane 2011 Zinfandel (Lodi). Imag- abv: 14.9% Price: $40 wine. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 89 ine coffee ice cream drizzled with boysen- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 berry syrup and you get the gist of the flavors of Carol Shelton 2010 Rocky Reserve Florence this full-bodied, rather sweet Zinfandel. Aromas 87 Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile). Wrapped in Apsara 2012 Las Madres Vineyard Syrah of toasted oak barrels and fresh roasted coffee layers of red berries and licorice, it’s thick and rich, 91 (Carneros). Concentrated and savory, this beans leap out of the glass as you sniff, then rich offering mouthfuls of accessible fruitiness amid an brooding wine is supple in tannins and layered in cherry and boysenberry flavors coat your tongue. interior core of leather and high heat. Pull it out for black olive and leather. It hangs together well, mea- The alcohol is noticeable, but it carries so much fla- grilled meats slathered in sweet barbecue sauce. sured acidity dancing on the palate from first sip to vor along with it that it comes off as decently bal- —V.B. last, accessorized by juicy red fruit, anise and toasty anced. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $35 tropical oak. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $36 Seven Deadly Zins 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel Ironstone 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel (Lodi). 87 (Lodi). For full review see page 11. Leoness 2011 Vista Del Monte Vineyard Syrah 89 Lots of fun to sip this showy, overt, no- abv: 15% Price: $16 91 (Temecula Valley). A bit less inky than some holds-barred Zin. Lavish use of new oak gives of its Syrah counterparts from more northern re-
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gions, the violet, potting soil, pepper and vanilla Wait Cellars 2012 Devoto Garden Vineyard aromas make for a solid sipping experience. It’s very PINOT NOIR 93 Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Light in ruby-red, soft and pleasurable to the palate, with black pepper see-through red color, it’s spicy and alive, with a up front and on the finish. —M.K. Balletto 2012 Burnside Road Vineyard Estate silky cherry pit aroma and undercurrent of herbal abv: 15.1% Price: $49 93 Grown and Bottled Pinot Noir (Russian River earthiness. Balanced and soft, it can accompany Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. a slow-roasted pork tenderloin adorned in morel Leoness 2011 Signature Selection Syrah abv: 14.4% Price: $42 mushrooms or a classic BLT. Of course, it’s also stel- 90 (Temecula Valley). Leoness is one of the pi- lar on its own. —V.B. oneers of viticulture in the Riverside County region. Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine Lois Louise abv: 13.5% Price: $32 This wine starts with aromas of mocha, menthol, 93 Twisty Ridge Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- caramel and cedar. Once sipped, it proves more deli- tains). Opaque in its deep purple color, this micro- Alta Maria 2013 Carbonic Pinot Noir (Santa cate than expected, with lavender and blackberries. chip-toting bottle fills the nose with the wet clay 92 Maria Valley). A fascinating wine, it was The tannins could use smoothing out, but it would and menthol aromas. On the palate, graphite and processed in a carbonic fashion, in which the juice go well with a rich beef dish. —M.K. black volcanic rock come with a touch of caramel- is allowed to ferment inside the mostly intact grape abv: 15.1% Price: $95 ized fruit and dark spices, such as black pepper, that skins, much like what’s done in Beaujolais. The take hold. Still rich with tannins, this will continue result is a transparent, ruby red wine that offers Carica 2010 Kick Ranch Syrah (Sonoma to emerge until 2024 if not longer. Cellar Selection. scents of a dust storm mixed with crushed rock and 89 County). A bouquet of black olive jumps —M.K. chile pepper herbaciousness. It’s warm and soft on out first in this layered Syrah that’s juicy in black abv: 14.19% Price: $82 the mouth with a presence that suggests something cherry and berry. From the well-farmed vineyard between peppercorns and bell peppers. Editors’ called Kick Ranch, this is another vinous testament Flying Goat Cellars 2010 Rancho Santa Rosa Choice. —M.K. to the great Rhône fruit growing there. A mellowed, 93 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This single-vine- abv: 13% Price: $24 complex wine, it’s balanced in acidity. —V.B. yard bottling comes from Pinot Noir expert Norm abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Yost. Baking spices and cinnamon greet the nose, Alta Maria 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pi- followed by sweet-tart boysenberry and freshly 92 not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Winemakers Zaca Mesa 2011 Chapel G Syrah Syrah (Santa turned soil. On the palate, black licorice leads, fol- James Ontiveros and Paul Wilkins tease awesome- 89 Ynez Valley). Browned butter, cinnamon- lowed by an impressively smooth, black cherry-lad- ness out of the legendary Bien Nacido Vineyard with like spices and blackberry pie frame this Syrah from en midpalate, ending with tantalizing spices on the this Pinot Noir—and Ontiveros should know how, an estate vineyard owned of Zaca Mesa, the first back end. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. since he worked for the vineyard for years. On the winery to plant the grape in Santa Barbara County. abv: 14.7% Price: $48 nose, there’s sea salt, caramel, cotton candy and There is more brown spice and blackberry on the pepper-teriyaki steak. Although it’s leaner on the palate, which is couched in an appealing tannic Reuling Vineyard 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma palate, it still features ripe raspberries, milk choco- structure that smooths out as you drink it. —M.K. 93 Coast). Reuling is humming its way toward late and sweetened coffee.Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $56 continued greatness in working with its own cov- abv: NA Price: $48 eted fruit, crafting a coming-together of earthy fruit Dierberg 2010 Star Lane Vineyard Syrah and lush texture. This vintage is dark ruby in color, Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine Lois Louise 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Black as night in the classic in complex forest floor and wild strawberry 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full glass, this packs a bit of mystery behind its opaque layered over flowery perfume and a streak of spice. review see page 6. Cellar Selection. coloring. There is an intriguing funk on the nose, The imprint of oak and girth is still evolving, and abv: 14.13% Price: $42 mushroom-like with a lift of sagebrush but border- the structure is there to cellar from 2017–2021. Cel- ing on rich meat. The flavors begin with blackberry lar Selection. —V.B. Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Em- before the tannins overtake the mouth with fero- abv: 14% Price: $70 92 erald Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Val- cious viscosity—even more than two hours after be- ley). Dark in color, this wine is concentrated in ripe ing opened. There is something special about this Savannah-Chanelle 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa blueberry and blackberry fruit. A streak of tropical wine, but it may take serious decanting to unlock 93 Cruz Mountains). There’s a rustier rhubarb succulence and violets characterize the nose. Aged the gate. —M.K. hint to this wine, made in a hillside winery between 11 months in French oak, the wood is present but abv: 14.7% Price: $34 Silicon Valley and Santa Cruz. Light clove and cafe subtle. Restrained tannins are topped by a creamy au lait round out the nose. A sip reveals warm red mouth-filling finesse. —V.B. Bacio Divino 2011 Vagabond Syrah (Napa Val- fruit up front, a soft and silky mouthfeel and flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $58 87 ley). Smooth and dark black in color, the of a cinnamon cookie laced with Chinese five-spice wine offers a cacophony of smoke, leather and ba- mix. —M.K. Fiddlehead 2010 Seven Twenty Eight Fid- loney in smell and taste. Layers of black fruit are abv: 14.6% Price: $31 92 dlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). somewhat obscured by the darker, more savory With brooding aromas ranging from wild crushed overtones. Pair carefully with wild boar dressed in Savannah-Chanelle 2010 Regan Vineyard Pi- berries to clove to wet clay, the palate features lay- chanterelles. —V.B. 93 not Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). An earthy, ers upon layers of flavor, and the wine coats the abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Indian-inspired spice rack of scents like star an- mouth like silk. Cherries, cola and other savory ele- ise, cardamom and cedar surround a black cherry ments come with a slight tannic grip that ensures a Cuvée Wine Cellars 2012 Syrah (Sonoma backbone on this single vineyard offering from the few more years to enjoy this wine. —M.K. 87 Coast). Meaty, smoky and leathery, it pro- Corralitos area south of Santa Cruz, overlooking the abv: 14.1% Price: $42 vides plenty of pepper on the palate. The 15% Gr- Monterey Bay. The nuanced experience continues to enache blended in softens the wine somewhat, a the palate, where a core of sour cherry is layered Indigené 2012 Edna Valley Pinot Noir (Cali- taste of gamey cold cuts coming back into the fold with herbs of thyme and oregano, followed by a 92 fornia). Ripe raspberry, slight minerality, midpalate. The tannins are mellowed and layered. minty finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. mossy earthiness and a minty lift kick off this -of —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 fering. On the palate, expect sour cherry, mocha abv: 13.5% Price: $24 and a pleasing espresso finish bolstered by tingling
62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 acidity. Though 2010 was considered a less-than- all couched in a clean, crisp and refreshing acidity stant from Clos de la Tech, so hang onto this one to optimal year, the vintage look like a shining star with appropriate bitterness as well. Ready to drink 2018. Cellar Selection. —M.K. now that wines like this have had time to come into now. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $62 their own. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $38 abv: 14.2% Price: $31 Domaine Carneros 2011 La Terre Promise Roblar 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Red 90 Pinot Noir (Carneros). From 100% estate- Tudor Wines 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia 91 currant, cranberry sauce, seasoned tomato grown fruit, it spent more than a year in 100% 92 Highlands). Offering aromas of a warm and curry spices frame the nose. On the palate, the French oak and is dense in baked strawberry, black berry cobbler with a touch of sagebrush spice, this exotic elements continue, with gram masala and cherry and a richness of herb. The grip of fruit is delivers the flavorful balance promised by the ap- black cardamom flavors, which makes for a very balanced by moderate acidity. The grapes are or- pellation. Once sipped, there is violet, lavender, savory, noteworthy and nicely rounded experience. ganically certified. —V.B. cola, rhubarb pie and candy-coated fennel seeds, a Serve with Indian curries or try chicken mole. Cel- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 combination that comes across as uncomplicated lar Selection. —M.K. and makes for easy, delicious drinking. Cellar Se- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Domaine Carneros 2011 The Famous Gate Pi- lection. —M.K. 90 not Noir (Carneros). Dark burgundy in color, abv: 13.8% Price: $55 Stolo 2012 Stolo Family Vineyards Hillside it’s crafted from estate-grown, organically certified 91 Reserve Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). grapes, a mix of Swan, Dijon 667 and 777 and Pom- Tudor Wines 2009 Tondré Reserve Pinot Noir Sour cherry, damp soil and wet rocks frame this mard clones. It has a dense, toasty character from 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands). If this wine is any minerally-minded Pinot Noir from the coastal range 16 months in French oak, almost half of it new. A indication, now is the time to jump into the 2009s in the northern part of the county. The palate is darker profile of baked plum and cinnamon swirls from the Santa Lucia Highlands. There is verve on dominated by herbs, from oregano and thyme to amid leathery earth. The finish is zingy and the wine the nose, with a heady mix of cola, violet, sassafras fennel and licorice, with ripe cranberry framing the is labeled as vegan. —V.B. and earthy funk. Then the palate delivers suave fruit profile. An intriguing look at a very promising abv: 14.2% Price: $75 vanilla and blackberry brûlée flavors. Tannins are though just-emerging coastal region. —M.K. perfectly integrated, and it’s ready to rock. Editors’ abv: 14.3% Price: $39 En Garde 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian Choice. —M.K. 90 River Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Testarossa 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 91 lands). There is a powerful purity of fruit on Balletto 2012 Estate Grown and Bottled Pinot the nose of this appellation blend from the single- Jeff Gordon 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see vineyard-loving crew at Testarossa. Raspberry and 90 Dark burgundy in color, it has an old-world page 6. fresh minerality rise to the top of the aroma profile. soul, earthy and brooding in clove, mushroomy for- abv: 14.2% Price: $29 On the palate, it’s soft and elegant, with a cranberry est floor and a light texture of cherry, not what you’d core bolstered by tar and peppercorn edges and a expect from a big-time NASCAR guy. Restrained yet Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine Lois Louise Cote long finish. —M.K. powerful. —V.B. 91 Sud Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). From abv: 14.3% Price: $42 abv: 14.1% Price: $50 the estate vineyard of a winery founded in 1994 by Silicon Valley mogul TJ Rodgers of Cypress Semi- Armida 2012 Castelli-Knight Ranch Pinot Laetitia 2012 Laetitia Estate Whole Cluster conductor, the grapes must be picked by a special 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). The vineyard is 90 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). For full tractor-on-wires because they are so steeply plant- planted to Dijon clones of Pinot Noir. The result is review see page 9. ed. Like the other 2009s, this Pinot Noir is charac- a concentrated, plush wine, herbal and savory with abv: 14.2% Price: $40 terized by strong tannins, meaning that it will last. tightly hewn tannins, a tartness of cranberry and Unlike the others, this one boats a more mushroom- rhubarb, and a substantial finish of cinnamon, clove Truchard 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros-Napa driven nose between shiitake and porcini, with a and darker fruit. The balance between the wine’s 90 Valley). Earthy in wild strawberry, tart touch of mocha. The palate reveals caramelized richness and more ethereal components is nicely cherry and exotic spicy aromas, it’s well-made and raspberry, graphite and silty flavors. Cellar Selec- drawn. —V.B. tight in acidity. Elements of black tea intermingle tion. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 nicely within complex layers that are delicate and abv: 14.16% Price: $62 bright. —V.B. Charles Heintz 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 14.1% Price: $35 Flying Goat Cellars 2010 Rio Vista Vineyard 90 County). In crafting his first Pinot Noir for 91 Clone 2A Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Pinot Heintz, winemaker Hugh Chappelle has delivered Venge 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir Noir specialist Norm Yost hits the varietal’s geeky a wine that’s pretty and delicate, softly adorned in 90 (Russian River Valley). Pretty with aromat- purists with a straight clonal take, pulling just velvety texture and faint, balanced cranberry and ics of rose petals, this layered, complex wine offers Clone 2A to deliver this wine. The nose is lighter, cherry. Riding a perfect wave between savory and restrained power and demure fruit. In taste, it’s a with cranberry, leather, butter, vanilla and root beer sweet, it would be delicious with grilled salmon. mix of black cherries and that cola-like allspice that aromas. Meanwhile the palate is stronger—soft but —V.B. is prevalent in many Russian River Valley sites. The a tad tannic on entry, with licorice and charred pep- abv: 13.7% Price: $48 mouthfeel is round and soft, with just the right ten- per steak on the finish. Equally elegant and forceful. sion between tannin and acidity, with a protracted Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine Valeta Sunny finish of toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $42 90 Slope Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). abv: 14.3% Price: $58 This particular Valeta vineyard is 2,350-feet above Flying Goat Cellars 2010 Salisbury Vineyard the Bay Area in a site that deals with lots of wind, En Garde 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 91 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). A vi- rain and sometimes snow. The aromas are menthol, 89 ley). Smooth and ripe, it has some brown- brant minerality consumes the aromas on this bot- wet clay and mocha, and the palate delivers dark ish-red to its color and a candied quality to its fruit. tling from an extremely coastal vineyard. On the chocolate and pasilla chile. The tannins are a con- Amidst the ripe black cherry is a layering of wild palate, strawberry and sagebrush flavors emerge, mushroom and hint of herb. This wine would be ex-
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quisite with a roast chicken lathered in fresh rose- Cruz Mountains winery founded in 1981 by the late Riverbench 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Ma- mary, buttery mashed potatoes on the side. —V.B. Tom Mudd. Today his work is continued by his kids, 87 ria Valley). This solid if standard Pinot Noir abv: 13.8% Price: $54 Karina and Jack Mudd, and winemaker George Tro- proffers raspberry, earthiness, herbs and a touch of quato. The nose offers oregano and pomegranate- leather on the nose. The palate comes on silky but Gloria Ferrer 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled reduction sauce and flavors of black cherry, uplift- winds up fairly tannic by the finish. Wait until 2015 89 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Earthy and feral, ing sage and licorice. Lingering acidity and a solid and this will be a much better wine. —M.K. this Pinot from the Sonoma County sparkling wine tannic profile make for a well-rounded, full appel- abv: 14.2% Price: $28 house of Gloria Ferrer shows the producer’s atten- lation wine. —M.K. tion to detail with still wines. With soft layers of abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Sebastiani 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). balanced wild strawberry, cedar and distinctive 87 Minty and bright, this is a well-distributed brambly spice, it’ll serve perfectly alongside roast Joseph Jewell 2012 Russian River Valley Cu- Pinot that’s a fair value, soft and easy to drink. duck. —V.B. 88 vée Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Plush Amidst mellowed oak, expect dark cherry and abv: 13.5% Price: $27 on the nose and palate, it offers soft, round charac- buoyed acidity with a finish of darker, earthy tones. teristics of candied fruit and tobacco, more savory —V.B. Longoria 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). than sweet. Still grippy in tannins and weight, the abv: 13.5% Price: $19 89 Here, Pinot Noir master Richard Longoria finish is sealed in black tea and mushrooms. Good offers a more affordable taste of his Fe Ciega estate acidity brings out the wine with food. —V.B. Fossil Point 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). vineyard (whose other expressions cost upwards of abv: 13.95% Price: $29 86 Sagebrush aromas lead off this bottling $45 each). Aromas range from cranberry and tart from the newish Fossil Point label, which is con- blackberry to black pepper and wet slate, and the Red Pony Ranch 2012 Pinot Noir (Central nected to the higher end Center of Effort brand. On flavors hone in on sour cherry and tar. This wine 88 Coast). Buellton’s custom-crush facility the palate, spice, tar and pomegranate accompany features gripping tannins, so wait until 2016 for an known as Terravant Wine Company also produces some fairly weighty tannins, meaning that this will even more optimal experience. Best Buy. —M.K. its own wines, including this good-value Red Pony probably emerge as a better wine by 2016. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $32 brand. Aromas lean toward the savory, with sautéed abv: 14.3% Price: $17 brown and morel mushrooms. Brown spices, plum Scratch 2012 KW Ranch Pinot Noir (Santa and cola emerge on the palate. —M.K. Bridlewood 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey 89 Lucia Highlands). With scents reminiscent abv: 13.8% Price: $16 85 County). A sandalwood, light leather and of an early morning hike through a foggy forest, raspberry nose are the most compelling elements of it features aromas of cola, sassafras and a damp, Testarossa 2012 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot this wine by this E & J Gallo brand. On the palate, earthen funk. It hits the palate with a medium 88 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Fresh straw- roasted fig and tart berry are followed by a bit of body, delivering some violet florals at first and, with berry fruit and rocky minerality emerge on the nose spice but no lasting finish. —M.K. enough swishing, finishing on sanguine flavors of from this wine, made by single-vineyard specialists abv: 14.1% Price: $18 red meat. —M.K. Testarossa from vines dually owned by Santa Lucia abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Highlands pioneers Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscio- Hitching Post 2012 St. Rita’s Earth Pinot ni. On the palate, the round red fruit continues with 85 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The weak nose offers a Signaterra Benziger 2012 La Reyna Pinot Noir a touch of black pepper, leather, burned rosemary bit of sour cherry, raspberry and menthol, but just 89 (Sonoma Coast). From one of the Benziger and seared fat. —M.K. barely. On the palate, there are rounded red fruit family’s coolest-climate vineyards, and one that is abv: 14.1% Price: $61 flavors and a light earthiness, but again just faint. Demeter-certified Biodynamic, there’s a richness of That said, it does pair nicely with meatloaf or, as- cherry amid subtle aromatics of rose and cinnamon Armida 2012 Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Pinot suredly, the Hitching Post restaurant’s grilled arti- spice. A delicate wine that’s light in texture, it offers 87 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Tight, light and layered choke. —M.K. earthiness and a long, balanced finish. —V.B. in freshly baked bread and firm cherry and cranber- abv: 13.8% Price: $34 abv: 13.5% Price: $49 ry, this is a soft, rounded Pinot from an inland So- noma Coast site that’s balanced, food-friendly and Simi 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). A Armida 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir ready to enjoy now through 2016. —V.B. 85 soft, mid-range, medium-bodied Pinot Noir 88 (Russian River Valley). Earthy and stemmy, abv: 14.1% Price: $45 from areas including the Russian River Valley and the famed Bacigalupi is the source of grapes, a Wen- Sonoma Coast, it imparts aromas of rosemary and te field selection clone. Lush and soft, the flavors are Byron 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Coun- herbes de Provence before delving into a world faint strawberry and tart cherry, a touch of brown 87 ty). Sage and pomegranate form the fragrant of tart cherry and cranberry. The finish is smoky. sugar and vanilla darting through the midpalate and nose on this wine from the Santa Maria Valley’s —V.B. into the oak-tinged finish. —V.B. longtime producer Byron, now owned by the Jack- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 son Family Wines. It is still made by Jonathan Nagy, who’s been there since 2001. On the palate, sour Stolo 2012 Stolo Family Vineyards Creekside Baileyana 2012 Firepeak Estate Pinot Noir cherry and cinnamon have a tannic backbone that 85 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). The 88 (Edna Valley). The Edna Valley regularly will allow the wine to stand up to roasted meats as aromas on this bottling from just outside the coast- grows wines with a refreshing, uplifting nose. This well as lighter fare. —M.K. al town of Cambria start with slightly boozy vanilla strong entry follows suit, with strawberry, raspber- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 and caramel-corn characters, followed by a bit of ry, limestone and light mint as leading aromas. Once salinity and tart green apple. Once sipped, the al- sipped, it discloses intriguing black cherry and Chi- Domaine Carneros 2011 Pinot Noir (Carne- cohol heat continues, along with buttered popcorn, nese pepper-sauce elements, a well-blended mix of 87 ros). Domaine Carneros’ entry-level, estate- green apple and a tad of bitterness too. Serve with ripe fruit and savory spice. —M.K. grown Pinot is intensely earthy and herbal, grippy chicken or tuna salad. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 on the back palate, a swirl of approachable black- abv: 13.5% Price: $31 berry, black cherry and sweet oak. —V.B. Cinnabar 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). A abv: 13.8% Price: $35 88 lot is going on in this wine from the Santa
64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Sirah blend of varying vintages. This starts with Demetria 2011 Cuvee Constantine (Santa RED BLENDS roasted fennel and wildfire scents, but then the 88 Ynez Valley). Wet slate, raspberry and prettier rose petals aromas of the Grenache emerge. rose water aromas reveal the Grenache base to this Epoch Estate Wines 2011 Veracity Paderews- It’s very soft, almost massaging on the tongue. The Rhône blend. On the palate, dried cherries and goji 95 ki Vineyard (Paso Robles). Remarkably inky complex flavors bounce between herbs and flowers berries mix it up with persistent florals, dill and in color for a Grenache-based blend, it features and fruit, corresponding almost exactly to the char- wispy tobacco flavors. Though lighter in color and strong aromas of cedar, meat and deeply purple acters of the three components. —M.K. body, this would pair will with hearty fare, such as fruit. The soft, rich mouthfeel coats the palate like a abv: 14.8% Price: $20 beef stew. —M.K. luxurious lacquer, and features flavors of blackberry abv: 14.3% Price: $45 jam, macerated cherry and vanilla-spiced plums. Gifft 2011 Red (Monterey). Kathie Lee Gifford The blend of florals, herbals, fruit and oak-driven 91 teams with Monterey County’s Scheid Vine- Quadrant 2010 Platinum (Paso Robles). To- tannins is masterful. Drink now by itself or with a yards for this wine, which features 42% Merlot, 88 bacco smoke, blueberry pie and brown spice peppercorn-crusted filet mignon.Editors’ Choice. 25% Petite Sirah, 12% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot. frame the nose on this well-priced, mostly Merlot- —M.K. There’s a mix of iron, coffee and crushed, dried vio- Cabernet Sauvignon blend, which is bolstered with abv: 15.9% Price: $65 let on the Old World-leaning nose. The herbal el- touches of Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah. There’s egance continues on the palate, with dried oregano a thick blackberry presence in the mouth and the Oso Libre NV Rojo del Patron (Paso Robles). seasoning the dark black and blue fruit elements. alcohol is noticeable, despite being low. —M.K. 94 For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $16 abv: 15.8% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Refugio Ranch 2011 Escondrijo (Santa Ynez Refugio Ranch 2010 Barbareno Syrah-Petite La Rusticana d’Orsa 2010 Cinque (Santa 88 Valley). A ripe, fruit-driven nose of black- 94 Sirah (Santa Ynez Valley). Those who love 90 Cruz Mountains). Hailing from a hillside berry pie and vanilla offers hints of herbs like thyme the smell of campfires could park their nose in this estate of hand-tended grapes, this traditional Bor- and oregano in this solid Syrah-Grenache-Petite wine all day. But this is gourmet smoke, reminiscent deaux blend begins with a menthol, roasted fennel Sirah blend from winemaker Ryan Deovlet. The me- of applewood, with hints of vanilla and tea-smoked and cinnamon-touched nose. On the palate, the dium color profile, presumably from the Grenache, duck. On the palate, this extremely well-put-togeth- herbals continue alongside ripening plum and gin- lends to a leaner, medium body as well, with sour er wine is plush, expansive and tastes like blueberry gerbread cake, followed by a lingering finish. —M.K. cherry emerging as a dominant flavor. Serve with pie, adorned with the buttery crust and all. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $50 thinly sliced pepper steak. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $38 abv: 14.9% Price: $32 Leoness 2011 Signature Selection Grand Me- Epoch Estate Wines 2011 Authenticity Pa- 91 lange (Temecula Valley). Olallieberry and Eagle Eye 2008 Voluptuous (Napa Valley). A 93 derewski Vineyard (Paso Robles). Opaquely cigar box serve as identifiable elements of a very 87 big, burly proprietary red blend, Voluptous purple in color, this Syrah-Mourvèdre blend (with well-integrated, hard-to-pin-down nose. The palate combines Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller per- 1% Viognier that co-fermented with the Syrah) offers plum jam, pepper spice, ginger bread and a centages of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and boasts a brooding black cherry, pipe tobacco and lavender finish. The present tannins suggest age- Zinfandel , creating a rich, darkly fruited wine with tarragon nose. Then it delivers a much more nu- worthiness, so lay down until 2018 for a more fully dusty tannins. Well-structured despite its girth, it anced palate, with very ripe blackberry, oaky vanilla integrated experience. Cellar Selection. —M.K. delivers layers of licorice and leather on the finish. and a tartness on the backend. It’s well integrated, abv: 14.9% Price: $95 Drink now. —V.B. with some tannins to make it last. Drink now with abv: 15.3% Price: $30 a porterhouse steak, or hold until 2020 and track Miro 2012 Cuvée Sasha Monte Lago Vineyard the sure-to-be-exciting evolution. Cellar Selection. 91 Grenache-Mourvèdre-Syrah (High Valley). For Great American Wine Company 2012 Red —M.K. full review see page 7. 87 (California). There’s a dustiness to the nose abv: 15.7% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $20 of this bargain bottling by this Rosenblum brand, which also feature sanguine elements and ripe Epoch Estate Wines 2011 Ingenuity Pa- Anaba 2011 Turbine Red (Sonoma Coast). plum. Once sipped, juicy cooked strawberries are 93 derewski Vineyard (Paso Robles). It’s an- 90 Turbine Red has 45% Grenache, 27% Syr- present, as well as a little cola and gaminess, but other inky Rhône monster with aging potential from ah and 28% Mourvèdre. A burst of bright strawber- it fades quickly. Pair with a simply grilled steak. Epoch and their historic Paderewski Vineyard. This ry fruit focuses around a smooth mouthfeel of more —M.K. Syrah-led blend throws off inviting aromas of black black and red fruit and still-grippy tannins. The fin- abv: 13.8% Price: $13 cherry pie, violet, fennel and balsamic vinegar re- ish enters into more classic Syrah and Mourvèdre duction. Once sipped, layers of flavor emerge steadi- territory, with leathery, earthy layers nicely inter- Pangloss Cellars 2012 Tenacity (Sonoma ly, with blackberry fruit roll-up, wet pipe tobacco, mingling. —V.B. 87 County). This is a big, brawny, tight mix of candied nuts, lingering herbs and a slight vanilla abv: 13.5% Price: $24 51% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 24% Mourvèdre. finish. Serve with osso buco or otherwise roasted Zin-like raspberry compote flavor, notes of stone pork. Cellar Selection. —M.K. Demetria 2011 Pantheon (Santa Ynez Val- fruit and strong-walled tannins are at the forefront. abv: 15.5% Price: $65 89 ley). There’s a steady aromatic focus of Musky and earthy, the finish is smooth and long- graphite, Bing cherry and a brief herbal lift to this lasting. —V.B. Oso Libre 2011 Carnal (Paso Robles). For full offering from a sustainably minded winery run by abv: 14.8% Price: $35 92 review see page 6. Cellar Selection. the Zahoudanis family. Once sipped, the delivery is abv: 14.9% Price: $40 more subtle, with lavender, rose, fennel, dill and a Pangloss Cellars 2010 Red (Sonoma Coun- finish of bitter mustard greens framing sour cherry 86 ty). Juicy and dense in blackberry fruit, it Billhook NV Red Wine (Santa Barbara Coun- fruit. Cellar Selection. —M.K. offers lingering notes of cedar and cassis with a lin- 91 ty). Wine industry veteran Crawford Malone abv: 12.9% Price: $25 gering finish of wood. —V.B. turns the attention of his brand, which is named abv: 14.5% Price: $25 after a pruning knife, to a Syrah-Grenache-Petite
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Laird 2011 Jillian’s Blend (Napa Valley). ry to raspberry. The wine would go well alongside Sagemoor Farms and the Homestead estate vine- 84 Dusty in tannins and planky in wood, this pasta with red sauce or chicken enchiladas. —M.K. yard, this detailed and complex wine opens with chewy red blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mer- abv: 13% Price: $42 pear and pineapple scents and flavors, then layers lot and Malbec into a mouthful of black olive, black in pretty spices and toasty highlights. —P.G. currant and leather. —V.B. Longoria 2011 Tempranillo (Santa Ynez Val- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.8% Price: $44 87 ley). Complicated scents of bacon, wet leather, organ meats and damp dirt open this funky Sleight of Hand 2012 The Enchantress Old wine from Santa Barbara County pioneer Richard 90 Vine Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). This OTHER RED WINES Longoria. On the palate, the forest floor and gami- is old vine (1978), Wente clone Chardonnay, with ness persist alongside heavy herbal notes, a unique bright, spicy fruit flavors of banana, pear and mel- Adelaida 2011 Keeper Mourvèdre (Paso Ro- muskiness and smooth but present tannins. —M.K. on. A touch of toast and cracker comes from barrel- 91 bles). Mourvèdre provides a leathery back- abv: 13.9% Price: $36 fermentation in neutral French oak. Forward and bone to an otherwise very fruit-driven wine from rich, this is one to drink up while it’s young and pioneering Paso Robles producer Adelaida. Graphite Sheldon 2012 Ceja Farms Grenache (Sonoma fresh. —P.G. and pomegranate lead the aromas. On the palate, 87 Valley). Light in color and body and modest abv: 14.5% Price: $28 the medium-, almost light-bodied wine features in alcohol at 12%, this is a curiously intriguing Gre- purple flowers, raspberry, and more pomegranate, nache, tightly wound in freshly picked strawberries Tranche 2011 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay with a surprisingly strong acidity that delivers re- and an undeniable earthiness. Aromas lean toward 90 (Columbia Gorge). An aromatically arrest- freshing verve. This versatile wine could pair with roses with a heavy hint of menthol. A touch of pep- ing wine with a complex medley of corn silk, cream everything from Chinese food and tacos to marinat- periness on the finish completes the wine. —V.B. and an assortment of spices. It’s on the lighter side, ed skirt steak and chicken soup. —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $40 elegant in its styling, with tart lemony acidity that abv: 14.5% Price: $25 runs from head to tail and a lingering finish. —S.S. Fazeli Cellars 2010 Petite Sirah (Temecula abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Cambiata 2012 McIntyre Vineyard Dorn- 83 Valley). Cherry and sautéed morels provide 89 felder (Santa Lucia Highlands). Winemaker an intriguing introduction to this deeply hued wine, Buty 2012 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Eric Laumann, who was recently hired to head up but there are also hints of something funkier, like 89 (Columbia Valley). This single-vineyard the quality-at-good-price Castle Rock team, focuses wet newspaper. On the palate, the pleasing black Chardonnay remains detailed and aromatic, though on obscure varietals, this time taking on the deep- cherry returns, as does anise, some bitter elements not quite as ripe as one might wish. Scents and fla- red German grape Dornfelder. The nose combines and chewy tannins. —M.K. vors of herb, grain and green fruits mix and mingle, cinnamon, black currant, pure black cherry, pipe abv: 16.2% Price: $65 with plenty of underlying acidity. —P.G. tobacco, and chocolate cake, while the palate deliv- abv: 13.4% Price: $40 ers ripe plum, cherry pie and licorice. Cellar Selec- tion. —M.K. WASHINGTON Sparkman 2012 Lumière Chardonnay (Co- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 89 lumbia Valley). This was pressed whole- CHARDONNAY cluster and fermented in French oak, roughly one- Cambiata 2010 Rocosa Loma Tannat (Mon- third new. It’s a flavorful wine with caramel apple 89 terey). Tannat is hot right now, but Eric Guardian Cellars 2012 Entrapment Chardon- appeal, good definition and medium length. The Laumann—whose 30 years of winemaking experi- 92 nay (Columbia Valley). The Conner Lee vine- barrels put a pleasing toasty frame around the fin- ence recently landed him the top spot at Castle yard, from which this fruit was sourced, belongs in ish. —P.G. Rock—has been making it for years now under this the top five sites for Washington Chardonnay. This abv: 14.8% Price: $30 personal brand. This one begins with deeply pen- wine brings both pristine apple blossom scents and etrating aromas of mace and black cherry liqueur. supple fruit flavors, with lively acidity and plenty Three Rivers 2013 Steel Chardonnay (Colum- The ripe spiciness continues once sipped, with a of toast. Barrel-fermented in two-thirds new French 89 bia Valley). For full review see page 11. Best pleasingly soft mouthfeel. The tannins aren’t bom- oak, it’s an especially fine value.Editors’ Choice. Buy. bastic at all, and the wine flattens a bit toward the —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 finish —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Dance 2012 Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Côte Bonneville 2011 Estate Bottled DuBrul 88 Hills). All coming from a sub-vineyard Rideau 2011 La Presa Petite Sirah (Santa 91 Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). This within The Benches, it’s moderately aromatic with 88 Ynez Valley). Licorice, cigar box and a touch is a big old bruiser still shows generous new barrel notes of ripe peach, light tropical notes and spice. of mint highlight the ripe plum-driven aromas on flavors from aging in 44% new French oak. Banana, The palate is medium bodied, narrowing toward the this wine from New Orleans-hailing, Santa Ynez-re- vanilla, orange creamsickle, coconut cream pie... finish. —S.S. siding Iris Rideau. A plush mouthfeel comes along- you get the drift. In a word, yummy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $37 side blueberry notes and apparent tannins that abv: 14.3% Price: $50 aren’t overly grippy. It’s a little hot, but also retains Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Chardonnay (Columbia an refreshing acidity. —M.K. Foundry Vineyards 2012 Chardonnay (Colum- 88 Valley). Estate-grown fruit is at the center abv: 15.4% Price: $42 91 bia Gorge). This oak-tank-fermented Char- of all the g3 bottlings. Here the flavors blend cilan- donnay is light and nuanced with notes of toast, tro, green apple and botanical nuances with softer Sevtap 2012 Wish You Were Here Sangiovese pear and green apple. The palate is densely flavored, layers of lemon cream and vanilla. It’s a good value 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Dark plum, cracked creamy in feel, speckled with mineral notes and a and drinking well in a Chardonnay from a cool vin- clove, tart berry and a bit of rockiness kick off this streak of tart acidity throughout. —S.S. tage. —P.G. wine from tour operator-turned-winemaker Art abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.7% Price: $16 Sevtap. Tart and tannic, flavors range from cranber- Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2012 Reserve Char- Renegade 2013 Chardonnay (Columbia 90 donnay (Columbia Valley). Sourced from 88 Valley). Here is your go-to, all-purpose
66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Chardonnay. It’s got the crisp, vivid fruit flavors of StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay has not quite jelled the way the 2012 did, though Washington state grapes, a tangy blend of lemon 85 (Columbia Valley). This is soft and lightly time may help to pull it together. Right now it’s just and lime, with bracing botanical highlights. It’s su- scented with citrus. Aromas of lemon peel precede simple and sweet. —P.G. per fresh and drinking beautifully, with a wide as- light flavors of citrus and green apple. It’s a simple, abv: 11.9% Price: $19 sortment of seafood, poultry and salad dishes. Best quaffable white wine, with a bit of Riesling and Buy. —P.G. Viognier in the blend. Best Buy. —P.G. Nine Hats 2013 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.6% Price: $10 86 Sourced entirely from the Benches vine- yard, this screw-capped wine shows a lot of SO2 Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2012 Naked Chardon- when first opened, so plan on decanting if at all pos- 88 nay (Columbia Valley). This stainless-steel GEWÜRZTRAMINER sible. Once it clears up it’s a leesy, fresh white wine fermented and aged wine is loaded with ripe fruit with flavors of apples and pears, lightly dusted with flavors of apple, melon, pineapple and apricot. Great Pacific Rim 2013 Twin Vineyards Gewürz- cinnamon spice. —P.G. acidity underscores the clean and fresh midpalate. 91 traminer (Yakima Valley). Gewürztraminer abv: 14.1% Price: $12 Excellent concentration and refreshing minerality doesn’t get any more floral and spicy than this. makes this one to buy by the case. Best Buy. —P.G. Exuberantly aromatic, it conveys a sensuous per- Lone Birch 2013 Pinot Gris (Yakima Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $10 fume of baby powder, rose petals and lavender. The 85 This is a soft, somewhat dilute and simple floral characteristics continue in the mouth, yield- white wine. Delicate suggestions of white peach and Woodinville Wine Cellars 2013 Conner Lee ing a long, intense, detailed and unique wine. Sip pear carry the bulk of the flavor. —P.G. 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). it chilled and have fun experimenting with food abv: 12.4% Price: $12 Done entirely in stainless steel, this is young, tight matches! Best Buy. —P.G. and tart, with fruit flavors of green apple and pine- abv: 12.9% Price: $15 Girly Girl 2011 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). apple. The impression is more of skin and rind than 84 This is a straightforward white wine, with of flesh, but as a set-up to lightly sautéed poultry or Francis Tannahill 2009 Dragonfly Gewurz- clean flavors of apple and a very light hint of but- fish, it would work nicely. —P.G. 88 traminer (Washington). Dragonfly is terscotch. The flavors fade quickly. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25 sourced from Washington’s Columbia Gorge, though abv: 12.3% Price: $13 labeled simply as a Washington wine. Rich and off Airfield Estates 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay dry, it’s both floral and fleshy. Big fruit flavors of 86 (Yakima Valley). A light mix of apple, jicama peach and apricot dominate. —P.G. RIESLING and pear fruit, bolstered with plenty of acidity, car- abv: 14.8% Price: $25 ries this medium-weight, unoaked Chardonnay. It’s Côte Bonneville 2013 DuBrul Vineyard Ries- perfectly pleasant, but teeters on the edge of generic Domaine Pouillon 2013 Jewett Creek Vine- 94 ling (Yakima Valley). This hides its 37 g/L flavor neutrality. —P.G. 86 yards Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). residual sugar with bracing acidity and overall com- abv: 13.4% Price: $15 This wine is 100% varietal and fermented and aged plexity. A dense run of ripe fruits—Meyer lemon, in stainless steel. It starts out quite reductive before sweet pineapple, orange, tangerine and papaya— Jacob Williams 2012 Celilo Vineyard Char- opening to reveal perfumed notes of rose petal, ly- carries an interesting black tea note. The sweet- 86 donnay (Columbia Gorge). Fermented and chee and spice. The palate is off dry (16g/L residual ness is detailed and complex, with honey and ginger aged in stainless steel, this single-vineyard wine sugar), broad and oily in feel. —S.S. candy flavors. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. brings notes of yellow apple and lees accented by abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 10% Price: $22 tart acidity. While it provides some interest, it doesn’t seem like all of the pieces have quite come Gård Vintners 2012 Lawrence Vineyards Grand together. —S.S. PINOT GRIS 91 Klasse Riesling (Columbia Valley). This rather abv: 12.5% Price: $24 exotic Riesling was fermented and aged in bar- Gård Vintners 2012 Lawrence Vineyards rels, 43% new, and the rest once-used. The barrel Girly Girl 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- 89 Grand Klasse Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). treatment takes it away from any ordinary Riesling 85 ley). Thin and simple, this is a direct and This wine has unusual, penetrating, floral aromat- characteristics, yielding a wine that has much in straightforward wine, with green apple fruit flavors ics and a liqueur-like character. It was fermented common with Viognier—floral and buttery, with and a very light dusting of cinnamon. Drink now. in a mix of new and neutral French oak, and a cara- substantial alcohol. —P.G. —P.G. mel character comes in as the wine breathes open. abv: 14.3% Price: $22 abv: 13.1% Price: $13 Citrus peel and floral flavors remain through an -ex tended finish. —P.G. Sleight of Hand 2013 The Magician Evergreen Lone Birch 2012 Chardonnay (Yakima Val- abv: 14.3% Price: $22 91 Vineyard White Wine Riesling (Columbia Val- 85 ley). Suddenly Washington vintners are ley). This is 100% Riesling from the up-and-coming awash in Chardonnay, many value priced such as Gård Vintners 2012 Lawrence Vineyards Pinot Ancient Lakes AVA. Residual sugar is around 10 g/L, this new one from Airfield Estates’ Lone Birch proj- 87 Gris (Columbia Valley). Quite ripe and phe- but it’s fruit-driven and just slightly off dry, with ect. Clean and simple, it’s got moderately ripe apple nolic, this herbal, peppery wine seems to have had the fresh acidity and minerality which typify this flavors and no faux oak. —P.G. a lot of skin contact. The fruit flavors are as expect- vineyard’s Rieslings. Vibrant with flavors of pine- abv: 13.8% Price: $12 ed—apples and white peaches. The finish carries apple, orange flesh and peel, this food friendly wine some bitterness. —P.G. could be cellared until 2019. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Samson 2012 Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). abv: 14.2% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 85 Done entirely in stainless steel, it offers grape skin flavors and green apple fruit. It was. Convergence Zone Cellars 2013 Ciel du Che- Tempus Cellars 2013 Evergreen Vineyard Ries- —P.G. 86 val Vineyard Drizzle Pinot Gris (Red Moun- 91 ling (Ancient Lakes). An aromatic wine with abv: 13% Price: $13 tain). The previous vintage of this sweet Pinot Gris abundant notes of ripe white peach, apricot, min- was finished at 30 g/L residual sugar; this drops it eral and flowers. It drinks off dry (10.7 g/L residual down to half that. It’s a sugary, spritzy wine that sugar) with a pleasing sense of tension between the
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acid and stone fruit flavors leading to a long, persis- citrus candle and peach skin, this is quite dry and tent finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. feels a bit compressed. But the flavors linger and the WHITE BLENDS abv: 12.7% Price: $18 extended finish is generous with lime-infused acid- ity. Best Buy. —P.G. Buty 2012 62% Sémillon-21% Sauvi- Gård Vintners 2012 Lawrence Vineyards abv: 12.5% Price: $10 90 gnon-17% Muscadelle (Columbia Valley). 90 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Bone dry and Honeycrisp apples come to mind at first sip, along concentrated, it was fermented in a mix of stainless Buddha Kat 2013 Riesling (Columbia Valley). with dollops of peach, lemongrass and caramel. The steel and neutral oak. Lush floral and citrus aromat- 86 Spritzy, lively and quite dry, this mixes cit- mouthfeel is fresh and flavorful, with excellent tex- ics carry over into the flavors, with a streak of Cura- rus rind phenolics with apple and pear fruit. It’s ture and length. —P.G. çao liqueur as well. Best Buy. —P.G. simple, fruity and searingly tart. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.1% Price: $14 abv: 12% Price: $19 Eufloria 2013 Aromatic Blend (Washington). Pacific Rim 2013 Selenium Vineyard Dry Girly Girl 2011 Riesling (Columbia Valley). 89 This off-dry blend of Riesling, Chenin Blanc, 90 Riesling (Yakima Valley). For full review see 85 This Riesling is blended with both Chenin Pinot Gris and Muscat shows the last grape first and page 11. Best Buy. Blanc and Gewürztraminer. The residual sugar is not foremost. The Muscat shines and shimmers with abv: 12.9% Price: $15 listed, but the flavors are definitely sweet, without scents of orange blossoms and sweet, lively fruit. much acidity to cut through the sugary finish. —P.G. The wine is aromatic as promised, delicate and tilt- Samson 2012 Riesling (Yakima Valley). Al- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ing toward the floral, though with good, solid fruit 90 though slightly off dry, it retains excellent structure. Best Buy. —P.G. tension and minerality. Pear, peach and pineapple abv: 12% Price: $14 fruit flavors combine in an elegant and long-lasting SAUVIGNON BLANC wine. Best Buy. —P.G. Gård Vintners 2012 Lawrence Vineyards abv: 12% Price: $15 Guardian Cellars 2013 Angel Sauvignon 89 Freyja White Wine (Columbia Valley). Firm 94 Blanc (Red Mountain). For full review see and concentrated, this 80/20 Viognier/Roussanne Airfield Estates 2013 Late Harvest Riesling page 4. Editors’ Choice. blend brings bright and fresh scents and flavors of 89 (Yakima Valley). With residual sugar at 200 abv: 14.1% Price: $20 lemon peel and grapefruit, with bracing acidity. It’s g/L, this is much more concentrated than the aver- just right for warm weather outdoor dining. Best age wine labeled Late Harvest. With enough acidity Barrister 2013 Klipsun Vineyard Sauvignon Buy. —P.G. to stay focused and avoid any suggestion of syrup, 92 Blanc (Red Mountain). This single-vineyard abv: 14.6% Price: $14 it’s an exceptional value. Deep peach and apricot selection is full-bodied and exuberantly rich. It cap- flavors and a hint of caramel linger through a satis- tures the power of Klipsun/Red Mountain fruit, with Airfield Estates 2013 Flygirl White (Yakima fying finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. a lush array of candied orange, citrus and papaya. 88 Valley). Half Pinot Gris, 38% Viognier, and abv: 9.5% Price: $15/375 ml There’s a touch of sugar, excellent length and a lin- with a bit of Roussanne, it rocks with well-ripened gering hint of honeycomb. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. cucumber, melon and pear fruit flavors. There’s Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2012 Ryan’s Riesling abv: 14.3% Price: $19 nothing heavy-handed, but it shows good concen- 89 (Columbia Valley). Here’s a perfect go-to, tration. —P.G. every day Riesling for warm weather. Pretty fruit Woodinville Wine Cellars 2013 Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $15 flavors of peach and apple are laced with orange pe- 91 Blanc (Columbia Valley). This young wine is koe tea. Medium-bodied and mouthfilling, it’s got classic and spicy, with still-yeasty aromas of pear Cave B 2012 Cuvée Blanc (Ancient Lakes). excellent length and structure. Best Buy. —P.G. and apple. The flavors are focused, with vivid, light- 86 A blend of Sémillon (79%) and Sauvignon abv: 12% Price: $10 ly lemony acidity underscoring highlights of bees- Blanc (21%) it conveys abundant notes of fig, herbs wax and flowers.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and spice. It’s full bodied, with the fruit flavors Nine Hats 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). abv: 14% Price: $18 seeming almost sweet without the acid to stand 88 Solidly built, with a thick, heavy mouthfeel, them up. —S.S. it offers juicy citrus, pineapple and red apple fruit Cave B 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Ancient abv: 13.9% Price: $25 flavors. A nice trace of minerality comes up in the 88 Lakes). Fermented and aged in stainless finish.Best Buy. —P.G. steel, it delivers notes of herbs, mineral, white abv: 12.5% Price: $12 grapefruit and an assortment of tropical fruit. Dry OTHER WHITE WINES and tart, it discloses grapefruit rind flavors on the Three Rivers 2013 Riesling (Columbia Val- finish. —S.S. L’Ecole No. 41 2013 Old Vines Chenin Blanc 88 ley). This off-dry Riesling brings in its abv: 13.5% Price: $25 92 (Columbia Valley). A consistently lovely se- residual sugar at 23 g/L, offset with juicy acidity. lection, L’Ecole’s Old Vines Chenin Blanc captures Peach and papaya fruit rule the day in this forward, Sol Stone 2012 Solitude Sauvignon Blanc the grape’s floral highlights and its complex fruit fruit-driven, enjoyable quaffer. —P.G. 88 (Yakima Valley). Scented with toasty oak, it flavors of peach, melon and citrus. It lingers grace- abv: 12% Price: $15 conveys round, ripe fruit flavors. The Yakima Valley fully with a rich, slightly oily mouthfeel. Editors’ acidity keeps it fresh and lively. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. Cave B 2013 Riesling (Ancient Lakes). An abv: 13.8% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 87 aromatic wine, it has notes of tangerine and mineral. It drinks medium sweet (100g/L residual Airfield Estates 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Yaki- Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard sugar), with the sugar getting just a bit out in front 86 ma Valley). The alcohol has dropped to just 90 Viognier (Red Mountain). For full review see of the acids. —S.S. above 12% in this vintage, and the wine seems a tad page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 underripe. Overtly grassy and pungent, it suggests abv: 14.1% Price: $18 with petrol, gooseberry and green banana. Drink it StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Riesling (Co- well-chilled. —P.G. Pacific Rim 2013 Hahn Hill Vineyard Chenin 87 lumbia Valley). Bright, tart and scented with abv: 12.3% Price: $15 90 Blanc (Yakima Valley). Sourced from vines
68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 planted 45 years ago, this ripe and floral wine offers Charles & Charles 2013 Rosé (Columbia Val- Three Rivers 2013 Cabernet Franc Rosé classically varietal scents of flowers, while flavors 90 ley). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. 86 (Walla Walla Valley). This tangy rosé opens recall pear and peach. The length and detail are ex- abv: 12.7% Price: $12 with a burst of tart strawberry fruit, and rolls into cellent. Best Buy. —P.G. a lightly creamy midpalate. It’s in the peppery, tan- abv: 12.9% Price: $15 Côte Bonneville 2013 Estate Bottled Du- nic style of rosé, making it a good match for more 90 Brul Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rosé (Yakima substantial foods. —P.G. Cave B 2013 Cave B Estate Vineyards Viog- Valley). This is 100% varietal and bone dry, with abv: 13.9% Price: $14 88 nier (Ancient Lakes). Fermented and aged in flavors of wild strawberry, citrus and white pep- stainless steel and blended with 25% Roussanne, per. The structure is firm and powerful enough to Waterbrook 2013 Sangiovese Rosé (Co- it’s aromatically pretty with notes of honeysuckle handle poultry or an oily fish, and this is one rosé 86 lumbia Valley). A pale pink color, it brings and ripe peach. It drinks full bodied and dry, with that won’t fall apart in the first year or two. —P.G. notes of strawberry and watermelon, drinking dry a tart finish. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 with tart cherry flavors and a slightly clipped fin- abv: 13.3% Price: $25 ish. —S.S. Sleight of Hand 2013 The Magician’s Assis- abv: 12% Price: $13 Pacific Rim 2013 Spring Creek Vineyard 90 tant Cabernet Franc Rosé (Yakima Valley). 88 Grüner Veltliner (Yakima Valley). A perfect Sourced from the Blackrock Vineyard, production Cave B 2013 Dry Rosé Merlot (Ancient Lakes). dry white wine for warm weather sipping, when a has quadrupled with no loss of quality. Pale copper, 83 Notes of rhubarb and cherry don’t stitch to- cold salad or assortment of salty cheeses and snacks wonderfully aromatic, and showing the muscle and gether. It drinks just off dry with a tart finish. —S.S. are on the menu. Gooseberry, grapefruit and a touch verve of the grape, this artfully melds scents and abv: 13.1% Price: $18 of white peach fruit flavors anchor this racy, ripe flavors of rose petals and peaches, with a touch of and refreshing wine. —P.G. well-ripened tannin. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15 abv: 12.9% Price: $18 CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Palencia 2013 Albariño (Ancient Lakes). Va Piano 2013 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (Co- Doubleback 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wal- 88 Still settling into the bottle with spritzy, 90 lumbia Valley). Sourced entirely from the 94 la Walla Valley). For full review see page 3. glass-coating bubbles, it’s aromatic with notes of Chelle den Millie vineyard, the grapes were picked Cellar Selection. cantaloupe, pear and lime. The palate drinks dry and processed specifically for rosé. A deep, delicious abv: 14.4% Price: $89 and is fruit-filled and richly flavorful, narrowing and rather potent summer wine, it captures the toward the finish with a zip of acidity. Give it some brisk cherry fruit without entangling it in too much Dumas Station 2010 Minnick Hills Reserve time open to see it at its best. —S.S. tannin or herb. It’s all about the fruit, and bravo for 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). abv: 13% Price: $18 that. —P.G. This reserve is only occasionally produced. A stun- abv: 13.1% Price: $24 ning wine, it’s tight and packed with raspberry and Domaine Pouillon 2012 Blanc du Moulin Rous- cherry fruit that show great concentration, well- 87 sanne (Horse Heaven Hills). With oak aging Julia’s Dazzle 2013 Pinot Grigio (Horse balanced acidity and ripe tannins. The barrel-aging providing a toasty top note, this dry, 100% varietal 88 Heaven Hills). Pale salmon in color, it brings brings in a nice lick of chocolate to this blend that wine brings notes of apricot and spice. Despite the notes of melon and apple. The palate drinks close includes a small amount of Petit Verdot. Cellar Se- alcohol level, the concentration seems a bit want- to bone dry with a rich feel to the generous fruit lection. —P.G. ing, and it doesn’t all quite knit together. —S.S. flavors, showing a bit of the warmth of the vintage abv: 14.2% Price: $60 abv: 14.3% Price: $26 on the finish. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $16 Sleight of Hand 2011 The Illusionist Cabernet Cave B 2012 Sémillon (Ancient Lakes). The 94 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This almost- 85 oak (20% new French) seems far out front Kaella 2013 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Rosé pure Cabernet includes grapes sourced from Red here with vanilla overpowering the notes of fig. It 88 (Red Mountain). Off dry, this lists the re- Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills vineyards. The drinks dry with a creamy feel and abundant vanilla sidual sugar at 12 g/L and tastes even sweeter. structure is gorgeous—massive yet precise—with a flavors. —S.S. Candy strawberry flavors are somewhat offset by steely spine, great concentration and supple, mixed abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Red Mountain minerality. If you like your rosés with black fruits. A streak of lead pencil and a hint of some sweetness, this hits the spot. —P.G. toast contribute further complexity. Delicious al- Girly Girl 2012 Moscato (Columbia Valley). abv: 12.6% Price: $17 ready, this will reward cellaring through 2025. Cel- 85 This spritzy, sweet wine could serve well as lar Selection. —P.G. a mixer for many hot weather punch drinks. —P.G. Renegade 2013 Rosé (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.3% Price: $52 abv: 11.2% Price: $13 88 A pretty, pale salmon hue, this fresh and quaffable rosé brings watermelon and strawberry :Nota Bene 2010 Conner Lee Vineyard Red flavors, lifted with clean acidity and a lick of miner- 92 Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Columbia Valley). ROSÉS ality. A burst of cherry fruit comes out in the finish. This blend is made with 75% Cabernet Sauvignon Best Buy. —P.G. and 25% Merlot—all Conner Lee fruit. Firm and Gård Vintners 2013 Lawrence Vineyards Grand abv: 12.5% Price: $12 supple, it’s loaded with raspberry and cherry fruit 91 Klasse Rosé (Columbia Valley). Packaged in a that goes deep and stays balanced. One-quarter new sexy, Champagne-style bottle, this 100% Grenache Airfield Estates 2013 Ruby Rosé (Yakima French oak was used. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. is firm and substantial. It underscores fruit flavors 86 Valley). This Rosé of Sangiovese is light in abv: 15.1% Price: $35 of peach, apricot and melon with appealing mineral- color and density, with fruit flavors of watermelon ity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and a hint of peach. It’s a fine, light and easy sip- Dumas Station 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.1% Price: $22 per. —P.G. 92 (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced entirely from abv: 13.5% Price: $15 the Minnick Hills vineyard, it includes 5% Caber- net Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Strawberry, cherry and plum fruit flavors spread out broadly across the
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palate, making the wine especially pretty and ap- mix. The tannins, though quite astringent, are ripe Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2011 RP Reserve proachable at this age. The structure and length are and balanced. —P.G. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The impressive, and it could be laid down until 2020. abv: 14.6% Price: $52 blend is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and —P.G. 3% Petiit Verdot. It’s all about the barrels right abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Cabernet Sauvignon now, having spent 20 months in 50% new French 90 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page oak. Toast, clove, cocoa and dark roast coffee flavors L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wal- 9. Editors’ Choice. abound, but underneath the tart fruit carries some 92 la Walla Valley). This wine is 100% varietal, abv: 14.3% Price: $16 green notes. Decant for some time prior to consum- sourced from both estate and neighboring (Summit ing. —P.G. View, Loess, Yellow Jacket) vineyards. It conveys Adams Bench 2010 Red Willow Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $40 subtle complexity, mixing berry, herb and stone ele- 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This ments gracefully on through a long, tightly wound bottling offers the tart berry and fresh herbal fla- StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- finish. Aging in 40% new French oak adds sophisti- vors for which the vineyard is famous. It’s balanced 88 vignon (Columbia Valley). For full review cated elegance. —P.G. and aromatic, though does not have the ripe flavors see page 12. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 that the relatively high abv might suggest. Hints of abv: 13.1% Price: $10 tobacco adorn the astringent finish. —P.G. L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Indomitable 92 lumbia Valley). This 100% varietal is blend- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec (Columbia Val- ed from a mix of excellent vineyards, principally Feather 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia ley). This edition of the Indomitable is 78% Caber- Candy Mountain. It delivers stiff, tart, elegantly 89 Valley). Under the Feather label, this 100% net Sauvignon and 22% Malbec, a change from past proportioned red fruits, set in a frame of citrus and Cabernet Sauvignon styled by Napa’s Randy Dunn vintages. Brambly berry fruit of moderate concen- steel. Barrel aging in one-third new oak adds scents s the only one pure varietal red wine in the Long tration is adorned with highlights of leaf and herb. of cedar and spice. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Shadows collection. Eucalyptus aromas rise in- Drink now through 2018. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 stantly as it’s poured, leading into a smooth, appeal- abv: 14.2% Price: $50 ing flavors of plum and cassis fruit. It fades rather Va Piano 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- quickly, even after being open for a few hours, leav- Airfield Estates 2012 Runway Cabernet Sau- 92 bia Valley). Sourced from a half dozen vine- ing just an impression of chocolate from the barrel 87 vignon (Yakima Valley). This pure Cabernet yards, it includes small amounts of Merlot and Cab aging. It lacks the heft of past vintages. —P.G. does not have the sweet, forward, jammy aromatics Franc. Balanced and complete, it conveys blackber- abv: 14.2% Price: $60 of many red wines from this ripe vintage. It’s stiff ry, coffee and a smooth, vivid streak of caramel, with and tight, tannic and herbal, with a structure suited silky, delicious tannins. —P.G. Fidelitas 2010 Champoux Vineyard Caber- to play off a thick, juicy steak. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 89 net Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). The abv: 14.1% Price: $18 oak (83% new French and American) seems a bit Va Piano 2011 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon overweighted for the fruit that’s in the bottle on this Eight Bells 2011 Barrel Select Cabernet Sau- 92 (Walla Walla Valley). It opens with a lovely 100% varietal wine. The notes of vanilla, cocoa and 87 vignon (Red Mountain). With 18% Cabernet bouquet of berries and bourbon barrel. The tart woodspice get out in front of herb and cherry flavors Franc in the blend, this has some stiff, muscular acids underscore a classic structure with polished that seem slightly stewed. —S.S. tannins under firm, compact cherry fruit. The cool- tannins and just the right amount of herbal accents. abv: 14.9% Price: $65 er vintage brings herbal flavors and lemony acids, Small amounts of Merlot and Cab Franc add com- but the warmer site keeps the fruit up to par. —P.G. plexity. As with many reds from 2011, this will re- Adams Bench 2010 Two Blondes Vineyard abv: 13.8% Price: $35 ward decanting for at least 5–6 hours. —P.G. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This is abv: 14% Price: $60 quite dry and astringent, with aromatics and flavors Fidelitas 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cab- of toasted grain. The lightly ripened fruit flavors 87 ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This wine :Nota Bene 2010 Dineen Vineyard Cabernet include sweet tomato, strawberry and blackberry. begins well, with bright, focused aromas of cassis, 91 Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This is the first —P.G. cracker and mocha. In the mouth it feels somewhat Dineen designate from :Nota Bene, and it’s worth abv: 14% Price: $52 dilute and chalky, with light raspberry fruit, lem- chasing down. Focused dark purple and black fruits ony acidity and chewy tannins. An herbal character line up—cherry, plum and cassis—with a rich layer Domaine Pouillon 2010 McDuffee Vineyards comes forward as well. —P.G. of espresso and a lick of graphite following. The 22 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Gorge). abv: 14.7% Price: $60 months in barrel brings an interesting hint of cara- Coming from a cool-climate appellation in a cool mel to a nicely balanced finish. —P.G. vintage and aged in neutral French oak, this wine Girly Girl 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- abv: 14.9% Price: $35 has a vivid, precise fruit focus. Notes of black cur- 87 bia Valley). The Cabernet is the best of the rant and blackberry are framed by tart, lively acidity Girly Girl wines. This herbal, honest and no-frills Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Canoe Ridge Estate and firm, dry tannins. —S.S. Cabernet would be perfectly fine served alongside a 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). For abv: 14.2% Price: $36 grilled flank steak. —P.G. full review see page 7. abv: 13.6% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Foundry Vineyards 2010 Artisan Cabernet 88 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Aged in 70% Stottle 2011 Elephant Mountain Cabernet Adams Bench 2010 the V Cabernet Sauvi- new French oak, the wine shows a lot of barrel 87 Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This single- 90 gnon (Columbia Valley). Aged in 100% new toast, coffee and chocolate flavors. The tannins are vineyard Cabernet, from a relatively cool site in French oak, this dark and muscular wine has lush stiff and the fruit lean, with tart flavors of red berry. an historically cool vintage, emphasizes the herbal scents of cut tobacco and dense cassis fruit. Black More bottle age may help to soften the oak flavors. side of the grape. Rhubarb and tart berry fruit fla- olive highlights bring a nice herbal element to the —P.G. vors carry light hints of cedar and chocolate as well. abv: 15.2% Price: $42 —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $34
70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Three Rivers 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wal- Animale 2011 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Val- Barrister 2012 Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). 87 la Walla Valley). This is sourced from the 87 ley). Aged for nine months in neutral oak, 90 The first-ever varietal Malbec for Barrister, excellent Seven Hills vineyard, yet it lacks the heft this is a no-frills take on Cabernet Franc. Cran- this captures the vivid core of tart, delicious, juicy and muscle of the winery’s Columbia Valley Merlot, berry and raspberry fruit and a distinctive mineral and deep raspberry fruit, elevated further with lem- sourced from a mix of sites. Here the flavors suggest streak lead into quite astringent tannins. The over- ony acidity. The wine is penetrating, tart and quite cherry candy, with a big streak of licorice. The tan- all structure is balanced, but the minimal ripeness young, but lip-smackingly tasty. —P.G. nins are chewy and astringent. —P.G. suggests drinking this by 2017. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $39 abv: 14% Price: $25 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2011 LMS Malbec Grace Lane 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- Jacob Williams 2010 Rattlesnake Road Vine- 89 (Columbia Valley). A blend of Conner Lee 86 lumbia Valley). An all-purpose red, it has 87 yard Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This and Stillwater Creek vineyard fruit, this carries pretty fruit scents and flavors of strawberry and 100% Cabernet conveys aromas of raw lumber. tart, wild berry flavors on a sea of bright acidity. cherry candy. There’s also a suggestion of café latté Nonetheless, the fruit is ripe and round, with full Streaks of anise and a touch of floral aromatics add and a hint of cinnamon. —P.G. flavors of dark berry and cassis. Tannins are a bit zest and interest. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 rough and rustic, but pair this with a smoky, grilled abv: 14% Price: $40 beef and you’ll be quite pleased. —P.G. Cave B 2011 XXVI Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 William Church 2011 Gamache Vineyards 85 lumbia Valley). Black cherry, cooked fig and 88 Malbec (Columbia Valley). This straight- prune fruit flavors are set in thick tannins. There’s Kaella 2011 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet forward wine offers palate-pleasing purple berry a bitter character similar to dark roasted espresso. 87 Franc (Columbia Valley). Plums and black and plum fruit, lightly dusted with baking spices. —P.G. cherries are the principal fruit flavors, underscored The balance and flavors are all in good proportion, abv: 13.7% Price: $48 with ample acidity and a vein of gun metal. The tan- though considerably lighter than the previous vin- nins turn quite astringent, shortening the finish. tage. —P.G. City Limits 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $36 85 lumbia Valley). The wine’s label sports a abv: 13.7% Price: $25 black and white image of a city skyline, and the wine Stottle 2011 Elderding Six Prong Vineyard inside the bottle might make for a decent glass pour Vin du Lac 2010 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc 87 Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). Light purple at an urban bistro. There’s a lot of vanilla flavor and 83 (Columbia Valley). There is no varietal spec- in hue, it presents appealing notes of huckleberry, some pleasant black cherry fruit. —P.G. ificity to be found in this 100% Cabernet Franc. A plum and barrel spices. It’s on the lighter side of abv: 14% Price: $15 wine labeled Barrel Select brings certain expecta- medium-bodied, with tart fruit flavors and astrin- tions, which this fails to meet. It’s thin and herbal, gent tannins. —S.S. Eight Bells 2011 David’s Block Red Willow with stemmy tannins and only a bare suggestion of abv: 14.3% Price: $33 85 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Val- black cherry fruit. —P.G. ley). In this Bordeaux-style blend, Cabernet Franc, abv: 13.7% Price: $40 Merlot and Petit Verdot comprise a quarter of the MERLOT finished wine. However, it’s almost weightless, with dilute flavors of leaf, herb and lemon. —P.G. MALBEC Dumas Station 2012 Estate Merlot (Walla abv: 14.2% Price: $35 93 Walla Valley). Rarely does a Merlot in this :Nota Bene 2010 Verhey Vineyard Malbec price range display this much power and concen- Wind Rose 2012 Harvest Moon Cabernet Sau- 93 (Yakima Valley). Now up to a whopping 62 tration. Sourced from several vineyards, it’s ripe 85 vignon (Yakima Valley). This is a bit thin, cases (from a single barrel in 2009), this explodes right to the border of raisin flavors, with generous and mixes in a strong herbal dimension with the into life with sleek, densely packed blueberry fruit. dollops of maple syrup and brown sugar adding fur- tart red fruit. The acids are proportionate, and the The potent power of the fruit is framed in polished ther complexity. Still fruit-driven, yet with plenty tannins carry some bitterness into the finish. —P.G. tannins, and cuts a deep path through the palate. of barrel flavor, this massive Merlot can take your abv: 13.9% Price: $22 Drink now or cellar until 2020–2022. Cellar Selec- richest, tangiest barbecue sauce. Editors’ Choice. tion. —P.G. —P.G. Vin du Lac 2011 Red Café Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.9% Price: $32 82 (Columbia Valley). This is tannic and almost bitterly herbal, with tomato leaf, stem and earth fla- 14 Hands 2011 The Reserve Malbec (Horse Guardian Cellars 2011 Confidential Source vors, but no hint of ripe fruit. —P.G. 91 Heaven Hills). Despite seeing a wealth of new 92 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This pure Merlot abv: 13.6% Price: $25 oak (92% new French and American), the fruit coats the mouth with opulent berry and cherry fruit takes front and center, with notes of dark plum and and silky tannins. Crafted from Ciel du Cheval, Con- peppery spices. The palate is full bodied, rich and ner Lee and Stonetree vineyard grapes, the poise, CABERNET FRANC viscous in feel, with a lingering, coffee-filled finish. balance, integration and persistence are outstand- —S.S. ing, as is the value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Fidelitas 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cab- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 89 ernet Franc (Red Mountain). This single- vineyard selection is 100% varietal, with deep cas- Fidelitas 2011 Malbec (Columbia Valley). This Fidelitas 2010 Champoux Vineyard Merlot sis, dark chocolate and espresso flavors. The alcohol 91 blend of vineyards is 100% varietal, with 91 (Horse Heaven Hills). 100% varietal from comes out as a slight burn, but the tannins have bright, tight blackberry and black cherry fruit in one of Washington’s most esteemed vineyards, it’s been nicely rounded off and this will drink well im- good concentration. Dark fruit meets barrel toast tightly wound and slow to reveal its charms. Notes mediately. —P.G. in a well-defined, lingering finish, with substantial of clove, woodspice, raspberry and cherry re sup- abv: 14.6% Price: $50 and perfectlyripened tannins. —P.G. ported by firm, slightly dry tannins that need time abv: 14.3% Price: $35 to soften. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $55
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L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Three Rivers 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Va Piano 2012 Les Collines Syrah (Walla 91 This aromatic, Bordeaux-style blend is built 88 At first this muscular wine feels tight, even 94 Walla Valley). Almost jet black, this sin- from a generous mix of well-loved vineyards scat- stiff, with crisply defined plum and cassis fruit. The gle-vineyard reserve sports marvelously complex tered across the Columbia Valley. Balanced and de- only knock on it is the drying tannins, which leave aromas of smoked meat and dark fruits. Those per- tailed, it combines fresh herbs, rhubarb, raspberry a chalky aftertaste. Pair with a juicy cut of pork or fectly ripened and layered berry, black cherry and and tart acidity. The result is a young, still tight, salmon. —P.G. cassis flavors are wrapped in slightly smoky, super- well-structured wine with excellent aging potential abv: 14.5% Price: $21 smooth tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. through 2024. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Airfield Estates 2012 Runway Merlot (Yakima 87 Valley). Still sorting itself out, it matches Va Piano 2011 Portteus Syrah (Columbia Val- L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Merlot (Walla Walla tart cranberry fruit to an astringent, tannic finish 94 ley). For this sweet and jammy wine, the 91 Valley). Previously from all Seven Hills vine- with highlights of espresso. More time in bottle may fruit is sourced from what is reputed to be the sec- yard grapes, this estate bottling now sources almost soften up some of the rough edges. —P.G. ond-oldest planting of Syrah in Washington State. half its grapes from the high-altitude, mineral-driv- abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Hints of lilac lead into concentrated flavors of blue- en Ferguson vineyard. Peppery spices elevate the berry and boysenberry, along with lush barrel ac- nose, leading into a young, tight wine with compact Stottle 2011 Elephant Mountain Vineyard cents of mocha and chocolate. Tannins are smooth cranberry and strawberry fruit. The depth and min- 87 Merlot (Yakima Valley). This Merlot, which and silky, and the wine has the grip and substance erality are exceptional. Cellar Selection. —P.G. includes a small amount of Syrah, at first feels a to cellar well through at least 2024. Cellar Selec- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 little disjointed, though some breathing time helps tion. —P.G. pull it together. Raspberry fruit enters softly and abv: 14.4% Price: $65 StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Merlot (Co- lingers nicely, though without much depth or fur- 90 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 11. ther development. —P.G. Côte Bonneville 2011 Estate Bottled DuBrul Best Buy. abv: 14.4% Price: $26 93 Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). This is abv: 13.9% Price: $10 lightly herbal and beautifully complex. The fruit is Eight Bells 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Merlot a sweetly ripe mix of boysenberry and blueberry, Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Merlot (Columbia Val- 86 (Yakima Valley). Barrel flavors of toast and notched with highlights of pepper and leaf. Every- 89 ley). For full review see page 10. chocolate cover light strawberry fruit. It’s pleasant thing is supported with perfectly proportioned ac- abv: 14.2% Price: $16 enough, but the flavors have not yet jelled. Give it ids and fine-tuned tannins.Cellar Selection. —P.G. until 2016 to age. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $65 Pedestal 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). abv: 13.9% Price: $25 89 Consulting winemaker Michel Rolland :Nota Bene 2010 LVdM Vineyard Syrah (Ya- oversees this bottling in the Long Shadows series. Girly Girl 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). 92 kima Valley). LVdM is shorthand for Les Vi- Fans of his forward, sometimes voluptuous style 86 Tannic and earthy, it falls on the dark, herb- gnes de Marcoux, a newer planting near Red Willow. may find this vintage a bit thin. The fruit is peppery al side, cloaking its cassis fruit in flavors of tannin Done in a lovely, savory style, it offers a mix of leaf, and the tannins chewy, while the barrel flavors of and stem. It’s best drunk with grilled meats, or a herb and earth components, rather than supersweet chocolaty oak have not quite assimilated. Further good, greasy pizza. —P.G. fruit. Graceful and detailed, it discloses pepper and bottle age might improve the wine. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $17 iron ore minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 Cave B 2011 XXVI Merlot (Columbia Valley). Tamarack Cellars 2011 Merlot (Columbia 85 Much like the other 2011 red wine releas- Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve Coyote Canyon 89 Valley). Just a bit of Cabernet Franc and es from Cave B, this offers thin, tart red fruit, and 92 Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). Nu- Cabernet Sauvignon is added to the blend, most of strong herb and stem flavors in the finishing tan- merous sites in the Horse Heaven Hills didn’t pro- which comes from the Ciel du Cheval, Tapteil and nins. —P.G. duce fruit in 2011 due a late 2010 freeze. This wine Weinbau vineyards. In this cooler vintage, an herbal abv: 13.9% Price: $43 bears witness to the glory of the vines that survived character emerges, lending firm tannins and struc- unscathed with its notes of huckleberry, dark cof- ture to the tight black cherry and cassis core. —P.G. Samson 2012 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). fee and smoked meat. The flavors are silky soft and abv: 14.3% Price: $28 83 There’s a hard edge to the mocha, herb and glide along to a lingering, chocolate-filled finish. cherry aromas. The palate has blocky, dry tannins —S.S. Jacob Williams 2009 Merlot (Columbia that distract. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 88 Valley). Smooth and sweet, it’s ripe with abv: 13.5% Price: $21 flavors of strawberry preserves. Liberal accents Va Piano 2012 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Yakima of chocolate and coffee speak to substantial bar- 92 Valley). The Lewis vineyard is already prov- rel time, and there is more than a hint of sweet- SYRAH en as a first-rate site for Syrah. This new entry in Va ness across the palate. But for those who like a big, Piano’s black label series verifies it once again. El- blocky, ripe style, it’s quite tasty. —P.G. Va Piano 2011 Les Collines Syrah (Walla egant and complex, it sends up subtle citrus scents, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 95 Walla Valley). Va Piano has introduced a along with concentrated flavors of bush and berry, stellar series of single-vineyard Syrahs. But if you licorice, mocha and smoke. The details pile on and Seven Falls 2011 Merlot (Wahluke Slope). had to pick just one, it would have to be this mas- the finish lingers gracefully. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 88 The oak influence (20% American, 80% sive, beautifully structured bottle from Les Collines abv: 13.9% Price: $65 French) predominates on this 100% varietal wine vineyard. Concentrated boysenberry fruit leads into with notes of mocha and spice. The fruit flavors are a firm, sleek, subtle wine with even deeper flavors of Va Piano 2011 Estate Vineyard Syrah (Walla lighter in style, with a grainy feel to the tannins. black cherry, chocolate, espresso and baking spices. 92 Walla Valley). Rich and aromatic, this black Coffee flavors linger on the finish. —S.S. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. label reserve displays excellent power and concen- abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14.4% Price: $65 tration. A dense core of cassis, licorice and espresso is brightened with vivid acidity, slowing fading
72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 through a long, smoky finish. Wait until 2016 for Stottle 2011 Elerding Six Prong Vineyard Syr- chocolate. Young and tart, it brings a little heat and optimum enjoyment. —P.G. 90 ah (Horse Heaven Hills). An appealing wine finishes with some chalky tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $60 with notes of coffee, blueberry and crushed green abv: 14.8% Price: $50 herbs. It’s on the lighter side of medium-bodied, :Nota Bene 2010 Stillwater Creek Vineyard tart and lively with abundant herb flavors and fresh Airfield Estates 2012 Runway Syrah (Yakima 91 Syrah (Columbia Valley). For the first time acidity. —S.S. 87 Valley). In keeping with the rest of the val- these excellent grapes are being shown in a single- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 ue-priced Runway series, this Syrah is pure varietal vineyard cuvée. It’s a big, tannic, high-octane wine, and just moderately ripe. Light blueberry fruit, good with smooth, ripe and generous purple fruits. There StoneCap 2012 Estate Grown Syrah (Colum- acidity and some pleasant persistence through the is plenty of supporting acid, along with rather as- 89 bia Valley). For full review see page 11. Best finish are the highlights. —P.G. tringent tannins that carry a leafy note through the Buy. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 finish. Drink now–2019. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 15.5% Price: $30 Kaella 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Though Stottle 2011 Good Earth Vineyard Syrah (Ya- 87 labeled Syrah, this includes 25% Cabernet Va Piano 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Grapes 89 kima Valley). Well structured, it places its Sauvignon in the blend. The addition somewhat 91 are sourced from Red Mountain and old-vine raspberry fruit in a compact, focused core. An ap- mutes the Syrah character, though it may bump up Yakima valley sites. Lovely aromatics highlight a pealing and balanced mix of herb, baking spices, the concentration of cassis fruit flavor. Espresso- mix of citrus, wild blueberry, brambly red fruits and citrus and white pepper highlights give the wine laden tannins put a frame around the finish. —P.G. a whiff of game. The structure and breadth lead into complexity beyond its apparent lightness. Drink abv: 14.4% Price: $28 a smooth finish with veins of licorice and espresso. now–2019. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Telaya 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Though abv: 14.4% Price: $40 87 just under four years old, this Syrah already Two Vintners 2011 May’s Discovery Vineyard seems fully developed with notes of fruit leather, :Nota Bene 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). 89 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Perfumed and aro- dried cranberries and golden raisins backed by tart 90 Part of an interesting lineup of 100% Syr- matically distinctive wine, it carries notes of juni- acidity. Drink now. —S.S. ahs, this offers classy, varietal berry fruit with me- per, sagebrush, black pepper and cranberry. It’s soft abv: 13.9% Price: $28 dium concentration. Suggestions of pepper, coffee and sultry, lighter in feel, narrowing toward the fin- and anise filter through the finish. —P.G. ish. —S.S. William Church 2011 Limited Edition Syrah abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 87 (Yakima Valley). Sourced entirely from the Les Vignes de Marcoux Vineyard, this is a solid, :Nota Bene 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syr- Barrister 2012 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah (Co- rather safe style of Washington Syrah. Light, tart, 90 ah (Red Mountain). Smooth and peppery, 88 lumbia Valley). This blend of Syrah with clean and simple berry fruit flavors show a hint of this is pure Syrah from a prestigious Red Mountain 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc barrel spice from aging in mostly new French pun- vineyard. The midpalate is a bit light, with crisp, falls on the gamy, funky side of the Syrah spectrum. cheons. —P.G. lemony acidity marking the finish. —P.G. Scents of chicken yard, compost, soy and balsamic abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.8% Price: $35 mingle with a tight vein of black cherry fruit. Suf- ficient acidity suggests giving it a little more bottle Foundry Vineyards 2011 Syrah (Columbia 14 Hands 2011 The Reserve Syrah (Horse age, which should help to pull it together. —P.G. 86 Valley). This wine seems a bit reduced right 90 Heaven Hills). 100% varietal, it’s immedi- abv: 14.7% Price: $29 out of the bottle. Give it plenty of oxygen, and light ately appealing with notes of dark plum, blackber- blueberry fruit flavors emerge. The aging in 60% ries and dried herbs. The flavors are sweet, ripe Cave B 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). A new French oak brings in a lot of barrel flavors that and concentrated with the oak (62% new French 88 straightforward Syrah, it’s solidly based seem mismatched with the light fruit. —P.G. and American) giving some dryness to the tannins. on berry and black cherry fruit flavors, with clean abv: 14.4% Price: $30 —S.S. earth and a vein of licorice running through. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $30 now–2019. —P.G. Samson 2012 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). abv: 14.3% Price: $25 86 An unusual wine with notes of milk choco- Gård Vintners 2011 Lawrence Vineyards late, green olive and arugula. It’s light in style and 90 Grand Klasse Syrah (Columbia Valley). Eight Bells 2011 Red Willow Vineyard 8 seems hard to put a finger on any particular variety Though still quite youthful, this estate-grown Syr- 88 Clones Syrah (Yakima Valley). The blend or place. —S.S. ah brings concentrated boysenberry and blackberry includes eight different Syrah clones and a splash abv: 14.2% Price: $19 fruit, annotated with anise, chocolate, caramel and of Grenache. The wine is bright and spicy, peppery coffee. It’s a good mix of fruit and barrel flavors, with pretty cherry fruit. A chocolate streak amps up Woodinville Wine Cellars 2012 Reserve Syrah and the high alcohol is neither intrusive nor tiring. the finish. —P.G. 85 (Columbia Valley). This starts with concen- —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $32 trated boysenberry and raspberry fruit, but in the abv: 15.5% Price: $49 mouth some off-flavors intrude. The fruit is close to L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). raisined, and the finish carries a hint of plastic. Two L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Seven Hills Vine- 88 In this cooler vintage, Syrah reveals more bottles tasted, consistent results. —P.G. 90 yard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Pure Syrah of its herbal, leafy side. Along with wild blueberry abv: 14.9% Price: $50 from 14-year-old vines, this offers classic peppery fruit come streaks of herb, green tomato and wet aromatics, blue fruits, good concentration, and a stems. —P.G. Vin du Lac 2011 Red Café Syrah (Columbia hint of the Walla Walla funk that marks the better abv: 15% Price: $25 83 Valley). Dilute red fruits and a tomato paste Syrahs of the region. It’s lifted with excellent acidity flavor are the story here, with no varietal character. and continues into a focused finish with highlights Sequel 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Fairly Some earthy, roasted barrel flavors come up but are of coffee grounds. —P.G. 88 soft, smoky and toasty, it layers raspberry not well-integrated. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $35 and blueberry fruit with veins of espresso and dark abv: 14.1% Price: $25
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Tamarack Cellars 2010 Sagemoor Vineyards SANGIOVESE TEMPRANILLO 93 Reserve Red (Columbia Valley). This blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% each Merlot Panache Cellars 2012 Sangiovese (Columbia Animale 2011 Tempranillo (Yakima Valley). and Cabernet Franc. Complex old-vine characteris- 91 Valley). This tiny Oregon winery sourced Ya- 88 This is the first Tempranillo from Animale, tics emerge in a graceful, lengthy, detailed and sub- kima Valley fruit for this wine. Though many West and it’s a soft, supple wine with a pleasing mix of tle wine that weaves together herb, tobacco, olive Coast producers take a stab at this Italian grape, red berries and light tanned leather. It’s well made, and brambly berries. Drink now–2020. —P.G. most settle for a faux “Super Tuscan,” highly oaked balanced and interesting, with hints of rose petals abv: 14.6% Price: $50 style. This is closer to Chianti Classico, with straw- and dried leaves. —P.G. berry and cherry fruit, good acidity and light herbal abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Côte Bonneville 2007 Estate Bottled DuBrul highlights. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 92 Vineyard Red (Yakima Valley). Côte Bonnev- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Stottle 2011 Sugarloaf Vineyard Tempranillo ille releases this Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend 88 (Yakima Valley). This pure Tempranillo, quite late, so it’s well into the maturing process. Barrister 2011 Kiona Estate Sangiovese (Red from young vines, sports juicy acidity around its Pretty aromas of smoke, tea and mint accompany 90 Mountain). This tasty, toasty red wine is all black cherry core. Barrel-induced streaks of nut- secondary fruit flavors. The vintage produced well- Sangiovese. The tangy red berry fruit flavors carry meg, caramel and mocha bring further detail to the balanced wines, but many have slipped into a bit of highlights of peppery herbs. With some air time the flavors. —P.G. a dumb phase at the moment, so try in 2015. —P.G. wine smoothes out and rolls into a creamy, mocha- abv: 13.8% Price: $29 abv: 14.2% Price: $120 infused finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Cave B 2011 Tempranillo (Columbia Valley). L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Ferguson Vineyard Estate 85 Sharp and a bit disjointed, this is an uneasy 92 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Kaella 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard San- mix of sweet strawberry fruit and stemmy tannins. Franc (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 89 giovese (Red Mountain). The nose is lifted The Tempranillo is blended with 25% Cabernet 6. with bright spice and suggestions of pungent herbs. Franc. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Black fruits carry a touch of mocha and lead into a abv: 13.9% Price: $33 crisp, moderately tannic finish. Balance and length Pirouette 2011 Red (Columbia Valley). Pre- are excellent. —P.G. 92 dominantly Cabernet, this the most inter- abv: 14.3% Price: $25 ZINFANDEL esting and complex of all the Long Shadows red blends. It’s an aromatic and compelling wine with Sol Stone 2011 Solare Sangiovese (Colum- Forgeron 2011 Stonetree Vineyard Primitivo mixed scents of brambly berries and a touch of vio- 87 bia Valley). This spicy wine offers peppery 92 (Wahluke Slope). This complex wine pops lets. Tannins are compact and fully ripe, with none strawberry flavors and plenty of citrusy acids. It’s with notes of dried cranberries and cherries, anise, of the chalky character shown in some other reds still a little disjointed and could benefit from ad- vanilla, cocoa, pipe tobacco and barrel spices. It’s from this vintage. The juicy acidity and compact ditional bottle age. —P.G. ripe, rounded and soft in feel with a lingering, spice- strength suggest that further cellaring will reward abv: 13.9% Price: $26 filled finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. your patience. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Stottle 2011 Elderding Six Prong Vineyard 87 Sangiovese (Horse Heaven Hills). Having Two Vintners 2011 Stonetree Vineyard Zin- Tamarack Cellars 2012 Spicebox Red (Co- seen no new French oak, it brings fruit notes of sour 88 fandel (Wahluke Slope). Despite its rela- 92 lumbia Valley). This wine features a Gr- cherry and sage. The palate is light, tart and lively, tive youth, it seems somewhat dried out with notes enache/Mourvèdre/Counoise blend (a GMC?), and with firm tannins providing the frame. —S.S. of Craisins, dried currant, fruit leather and spice. the three grapes combine beautifully. Sweet berry, abv: 13.8% Price: $29 Still, there’s plenty of enjoyment to be had on this clean earth and a touch of minerality are supported unapologetically luscious, full-bodied wine. —S.S. by firm acidity. The wine rounds out in the mouth, Wind Rose 2012 Sangiovese (Columbia Val- abv: 16.7% Price: $27 and continues into a lingering, caramel-streaked 87 ley). Along with the Lonesome Spring Ranch finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Sangiovese, the blend includes 25% Cabernet Sau- Jacob Williams 2010 Gunkel Vineyard Re- abv: 13.8% Price: $28 vignon. It’s still pulling itself together and needs 85 serve Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). Rusticity some airing out, but shows accents of rose water goes a smidge too far here, without fruit that can :Nota Bene 2010 Abbinare Red Blend (Co- along with strawberry-flavored fruit. The tannins handle the harsh tannins. It opens nicely, with pret- 91 lumbia Valley). Sourced from a well-chosen are astringent and the acids tart and citrusy. —P.G. ty berry and cherry highlights, but in the mouth it group of top vineyards, this Bordeaux-style blend abv: 13.9% Price: $20 gets chewy and finishes rough. —P.G. is nicely focused with a crisp mix of raspberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 cherry fruit flavors. The supporting acidity and Cave B 2011 Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). overall freshness, in spite of the extra bottle age, 86 Lightly flavored with red fruits, it’s pleas- suggests that this may be cellared until 2019 or lon- ant but rather generic. It carries some alcohol heat RED BLENDS ger. —P.G. through a thin finish. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 13.7% Price: $33 Guardian Cellars 2011 Gun Metal (Columbia 94 Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Adams Bench 2010 Artz and Shaw Red Wine Eight Bells 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Sangio- Choice. 91 (Red Mountain). Mostly Merlot, this power- 85 vese (Yakima Valley). Light to the point of abv: 14% Price: $39 ful wine delivers Red Mountain grip and guts. The being watery, it has dilute red berry flavors. A toasty generous bourbon barrel accents from oak aging are edge, perhaps from new oak, is not fully integrated. Guardian Cellars 2011 The Wanted (Columbia balanced by the concentrated fig, plum and black- —P.G. 94 Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar berry fruit. A seam of graphite runs through the abv: 13.1% Price: $20 Selection. tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 abv: 14.8% Price: $39
74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Domaine Pouillon 2010 Katydid (Horse Heav- Sleight of Hand 2011 Archimage Red (Colum- ried to dark chocolate, with a dash of black olive in 91 en Hills). Light in color, this blend of Gre- 91 bia Valley). Made with 54% Merlot and 46% the mix. It’s tasty for drinking 2017–2019. —P.G. nache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Counoise—all aged in Cabernet Franc, it spent 23 months in one-third abv: 14.8% Price: $39 neutral French oak—brings notes of red fruit, herbs new French oak. The overall structure is impressive, and spices. Supported by chalky tannins, it has a with firm acidity and streaks of iron and mineral Chester Kidder 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). mesmerizing texture and purity that carries through around tight, taut black fruit. It will get even better 89 This gets an extra year in barrel and bottle to a lingering finish. —S.S. with ample breathing time and/or further cellaring. prior to release. It’s two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 14.4% Price: $24 —P.G. 28% Syrah and 5% Petit Verdot. Still tart and tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $52 nic, the wine carries a full load of herb and earth Dumas Station 2011 Cuvée No. 439 Red (Walla characteristics, with less impact from the fruit than 91 Walla Valley). A new cuvée for this winery, Côte Bonneville 2008 Estate Bottled DuBrul the high alcohol would suggest. —P.G. this is an equal mix of 30% Merlot, Cab Franc, 90 Vineyard Carriage House Red (Yakima Val- abv: 15.1% Price: $50 Cabernet Sauvignon; plus 10% Petite Sirah. It of- ley). This Bordeaux-style blend is two-thirds Cab- fers generous and juicy pie fruit flavors of berry and ernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 12% Cab Franc. Foundry Vineyards 2011 Alla Prima Red (Co- cherry. The acidity, tannins and lightly tasted herb- It’s got tart, juicy fruit flavors of berry and cherry, 89 lumbia Valley). Though less expensive than al notes are in perfect proportion. On balance it’s a plenty of supporting acidity, and light suggestions the Artisan series releases from Foundry, the Alla fruit-packed little gem that is immensely enjoyable. of mineral and barrel toast. It’s drinking well at al- Prima seems better balanced. There’s less new oak Editors’ Choice. —P.G. most six years of age, and may be consumed imme- (though 40% is not insubstantial) and the alcohol abv: 13.9% Price: $32 diately. —P.G. is well under 15%. The wine weaves together cher- abv: 14.7% Price: $50 ry, dark chocolate and espresso with plenty of tart Fidelitas 2011 Optu Red Wine (Red Mountain). acidity to buoy it up. —P.G. 91 This is a Bordeaux-style blend from three Red Genoa Cellars 2009 The Boom Super- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Mountain vineyards: 50% Merlot, 34% Cabernet 90 Tuscan-style Red (Wahluke Slope). This Sauvignon and 16% Cabernet Franc. Stiff tannins Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend Gård Vintners 2011 Lawrence Vineyards Vau- underscore tight black cherry and cassis fruit, with brings a Mounds Bar-like oak profile of coconut, 89 cluse Red Wine (Columbia Valley). In this a generous helping of new oak barrel flavors. The chocolate and spice that plays off fruit notes of pungent wine, Syrah is co-fermented with a touch wine is young and substantial, with excellent aging cranberry and cherry. Flavors are juicy and sweet, of Viognier, then blended with 33% Grenache. In- potential through 2024. Cellar Selection. —P.G. backed by firm tannins. —S.S. teresting scents of diesel, soil and stem wrap into abv: 14.7% Price: $50 abv: 14.3% Price: $29 the tight red berry fruit. It rounds into a rather soft, easy-drinking red that should be consumed through Genoa Cellars 2009 Traveler Super-Tuscan- Guardian Cellars 2011 Chalk Line Red (Co- 2017. —P.G. 91 style Red Wine (Wahluke Slope). A blend of 90 lumbia Valley). Chalk Line includes all abv: 15.2% Price: $33 Sangiovese (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- five Bordeaux grapes along with 25% Syrah. The lot, it brings an abundance of sweet barrel notes of first sniff brings up generous red and purple fruit Genoa Cellars 2009 Three Sheets Super- vanilla, coconut and baking spices along with earth aromas and pretty, yet restrained, barrel toast. It’s 89 Tuscan-style Red Wine (Wahluke Slope). An tones and dried cherries. The fruit flavors are ripe well-integrated with medium density and excellent aromatic blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and sweet, backed by firm tannins and tart acidity. balance. —P.G. and Syrah, it conveys generous barrel notes of co- —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 conut, clove and baking spices matched with dried abv: 14.4% Price: $29 cherries. Tart cranberry flavors are ripe and lush L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Grown Seven with a touch of midpalate bitterness that holds it Goose Ridge 2011 g3 Red Wine Blend (Colum- 90 Hills Vineyard Perigee (Walla Walla Valley). back. —S.S. 91 bia Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ A five-grape, Bordeaux-style blend, it’s still a big, abv: 14.3% Price: $29 Choice. tough, chewy, tannic wine with a chunky, somewhat abv: 14.3% Price: $16 blocky mouthfeel. Cherry, cassis and wood flavors Renegade 2012 Red (Columbia Valley). There dominate, and the tannins are quite astringent. Re- 89 is nothing wimpy about this Bordeaux-style Saggi 2011 Red (Columbia Valley). A Super tasted over many hours it remained stubbornly hard blend except the price. It way over-delivers, loading 91 Tuscan-style blend, it’s 43% Sangiovese; and compact. Give this one some further bottle age. your palate with full-bodied, fruit-powered flavors 42% Cabernet, with Syrah making up the rest. —P.G. of strawberry and raspberry jam, bolstered with Tightly wound, compact and sturdy, it offers bright abv: 14.5% Price: $50 bracing acidity. It’s balanced and complete, with berry fruit and a dusting of dried Italian herbs. The crisp, ripe tannins. Best Buy. —P.G. barrel aging brings in streaks of lead pencil and a Stottle 2011 Homme Red Wine Blend (Co- abv: 13.9% Price: $12 hint of toast. —P.G. 90 lumbia Valley). The companion to the Hom- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 bre blend, this is 80% Malbec and 20% Syrah. The Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2010 Rock Island pairing works nicely, with the Syrah bringing details 89 Red (Columbia Valley). This is 58% Cab- Sleight of Hand 2012 The Conjurer Red (Co- of anise, pepper and coffee. The wine has decent ernet Sauvignon, 34% Malbec and 8% Syrah. The 91 lumbia Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend is grip and definition, along with a pretty, toasty top influence of 18 months in oak is showing strongly, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and 34% note. —P.G. though some very pretty raspberry candy flavors Cabernet Franc. Some 20% saw new French oak, abv: 14.3% Price: $28 come through also. Give it extra breathing time to and the wine has lovely concentration and flavor help balance it out. —P.G. integration. Blueberry, blackberry and cassis are Adams Bench 2010 Reckoning Red (Colum- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 wrapped in cacao and coffee—thoroughly luscious 89 bia Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend of and nicely concentrated. —P.G. 48% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Stottle 2011 Hombre Red Wine Blend (Co- abv: 14.7% Price: $28 Cab Franc looks a bit murky, unfiltered, and is cur- 89 lumbia Valley). Principally Malbec, with rently showing a lot of influence from barrel aging. 18% Tempranillo filling out the blend, this tangy Medium-weight blackberry and cassis fruit is mar-
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and appealing wine wraps its red currant fruit in chocolaty tannins. The blend is mostly Merlot, with Convergence Zone Cellars 2011 Squall Line streaks of vanilla, tobacco and light herbs. —P.G. smaller amounts of Primitivo and Malbec. Best Buy. 85 Red Wine (Red Mountain). This soft red wine abv: 14.2% Price: $31 —P.G. discloses pomegranate fruit and a liberal amount of abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Mediterranean herbs. It’s light and easy-sipping, :Nota Bene 2010 Miscela Red Blend (Colum- and should be consumed while young. —P.G. 88 bia Valley). The companion to the Merlot- :Nota Bene 2010 Una Notte Red (Columbia abv: 14.4% Price: $32 dominated Abbinare, Miscela has a bit more Cab- 87 Valley). The blend is 60% Grenache from ernet Sauvignon, and adds a splash of Syrah to the the Stone Tree vineyard, the rest Syrah from Still- otherwise Bordeaux blend. Some leathery aromas water Creek and LVdM vineyards. It’s forward, fra- OTHER RED WINES and distinct notes of black olive, earth and iodine grant and fruity, with notes of tanned leather. Bright keep this in the herbal rather than fruit-driven berry fruit shines through into a finish with moder- Tamarack Cellars 2012 Dionysus Vineyard camp; the finish is drying out. Drink soon. —P.G. ate tannins. —P.G. 94 Petit Verdot (Columbia Valley). Fans of Pe- abv: 14.7% Price: $25 abv: 14.7% Price: $30 tit Verdot, which has almost attained cult status in Washington, will not want to miss this spectacular Airfield Estates 2012 Dauntless Red (Yakima Cave B 2011 Cuvée du Soleil Red (Columbia effort. Bright, chewy and muscular though it is, the 88 Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend is almost 87 Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend includes tannins have been polished perfectly, and set off 75% Merlot, with Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cab all five grapes. It’s light and seamless, with a pep- with 40% new oak, adding dark, smoky chocolate Franc filling out the rest. Young and a bit stiff, it’s pery, herbal streak running under compact, tannic and espresso flavors. The acidity keeps up, under- well-structured and layered, with mixed red fruits dark fruit. —P.G. scoring tart berry fruit with some sweet green-to- and light veins of mocha and caramel. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $55 mato highlights. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Domaine Pouillon 2010 Pierre McKinley Dumas Station 2011 Cow Catcher Red (Walla 87 Springs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Sleight of Hand 2012 The Sorceress Upland 88 Walla Valley). This go-to red blend is a mix (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of 55% Cabernet and 92 Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Mountain). It of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cab Franc and Petite 45% Syrah aged in neutral French oak, it brings plays to Grenache’s lighter, more refined side in Sirah, yielding a big, chewy, rather tannic but quite notes of black currant and high-toned herbs. The color, flavor and feel. An unusual mix of fruit and appealing wine. It’s got plenty of ripe cherry and fruit flavors are supple in feel with astringent tan- savory notes includes herbs, umami, stems, cherry cassis fruit, black licorice, and hints of herb. —P.G. nins and a warm finish. —S.S. Jolly Rancher, green olive and wet gravel. The tex- abv: 13.3% Price: $24 abv: 14.7% Price: $27 ture is creamy and hypnotic, gliding along to a lin- gering finish. A unique wine that defies easy com- Foundry Vineyards 2010 Artisan Blend (Co- Eight Bells 2011 Shellback Red (Yakima Val- parison but keeps drawing you in for additional 88 lumbia Valley). This Bordeaux-style red 87 ley). Toasty and crisp, it showcases pretty exploration. —S.S. blend is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot cherry fruit as the main attraction. There’s trace abv: 14.3% Price: $60 and 9% Petit Verdot. Tart and also astringent, it is bitterness in the oak tannins, but ample breathing all about the 60% new French oak at the moment, time will help to smooth it out. —P.G. Tamarack Cellars 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vine- with rather delicate suggestions of raspberry fruit. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 91 yard Counoise (Red Mountain). Very, very few —P.G. wineries make pure varietal Counoise, and none any abv: 15.1% Price: $36 McKinley Springs 2010 Bombing Range Red better than this outstanding example. Tasting a bit 87 (Horse Heaven Hills). This blend of Syrah like Grenache, a bit like Pinot Noir, but different Kaella 2011 Meritage (Columbia Valley). The (56%), Cabernet Sauvignon (22%), Cabernet Franc from either, this fresh wine bursts with berries and 88 blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the (12%) and Mourvèdre saw just a trace of new oak tongue-tickling acidity. A hint of vanilla cream runs rest split down the middle between Cabernet Franc (10%). It delivers them all with notes of berry, cof- through the finish. —P.G. and Merlot. Still tight and peppery, it has hints of fee, raw meat, herbs and tar, with lighter-styled abv: 14.1% Price: $25 sweet tomato along with light red berry flavors. The fruit flavors and tart acidity. —S.S. details of herb and barrel are proportionate, and the abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Animale 2011 Dolcetto (Columbia Val- brightness of Washington grapes pushes this wine 90 ley). This is actually Wahluke Slope fruit, forward and makes it more accessible for near-term Convergence Zone Cellars 2011 Virga (Colum- though labeled simply Columbia Valley. Tart pome- drinking. —P.G. 86 bia Valley). The blend includes a half-dozen granate fruit, a seam of clay and well-integrated abv: 14.5% Price: $30 grapes, principally Mourvèdre and Syrah. It tastes highlights of herb and earth mark this extremely muted, as if the mélange of fruit sources more or limited-production wine as special. Dolcetto does Nine Hats 2011 Red Wine (Columbia Valley). less cancelled each other out. It’s a quaffable, ge- not have much of a track record in Washington, but 88 This blend of six grapes is crafted from the neric red with orange peel highlights and tart acid- what’s here is quite promising. —P.G. left-over barrels in the multi-wine Long Shadows ity. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 lineup. The 2011 version is one third Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 vignon, 20% Sangiovese, and the rest a mix of Mer- Animale 2011 Petite Sirah (Yakima Valley). lot, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Malbec. It’s a pleasant Lone Birch 2012 Red Blend (Yakima Valley). 90 Along with the Dolcetto, this Petite Sirah red, ready to drink, a bit amorphous but with nice 86 This unassuming red mixes six grapes to- tops the new releases for this micro-boutique win- details of black olive, strawberry and sweet tomato. gether, with Tempranillo and Sangiovese compris- ery. Bright and lightly toasty, it’s a forward wine, —P.G. ing almost two-thirds of the blend. Nicely spicy and with pretty cherry, cola and earth components. An abv: 14.8% Price: $25 balanced, it has enough substance for the transi- appealing and supple streak of leather comes with tion from late summer to early fall meals, and could hints of spice and butterscotch, all woven together Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2012 Redhead Red carry into November-centric holiday meals as well. seamlessly. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 (Columbia Valley). An excellent addition —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $26 to the winery’s value lineup, it offers ripe fruit fla- abv: 13.9% Price: $12 vors of mixed red berries lightly framed with ripe,
76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 Wind Rose 2012 Dolcetto (Columbia Valley). Hosmer Winery 2012 Chardonnay (Cayuga its youthful, primary character. Racy lemon acid- 88 This all-stainless Dolcetto is anchored in 88 Lake). Chock full of fresh apple, zesty ity and zesty lemon-skin reverberate on the finish. pretty strawberry fruit and vivid acidity. It looks lemon and grapefruit flavors, this juicy, full-bodied —A.I. and tastes like a particularly deep rosé, or perhaps Chardonnay shines with youthful, fruity energy. It’s abv: 12% Price: $18 a lighter Beaujolais. Quite charming and delicious. texturally rich with lingering notes of white peach —P.G. and melon that seem to lend sweetness to the fin- McGregor 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Finger abv: 13.9% Price: $18 ish. —A.I. 86 Lakes). Warm spice and oak tones accent abv: 13% Price: $14 fresh apples and lemons on this full-bodied Char- Woodinville Wine Cellars 2011 Grenache (Co- donnay. It’s not subtle with a dense slick of caramel 87 lumbia Valley). The Stillwater Creek vine- Keuka Spring 2012 Chardonnay (Finger that extends along the midpalate, but a kick of lem- yard fruit spent time in once-used French oak. 88 Lakes). Notes of cream and toast accent on-lime acidity on the finish adds some levity. —A.I. From a cool site in a cool vintage, the flavors are bright, crisp green apples and lemons on this impec- abv: 13% Price: $25 subdued, with wild purple berry, herb, pepper and cably balanced Chardonnay. It’s rich and round on earth. —P.G. the palate but fresh with acidity and a lip-smacking Silver Thread 2012 Chardonnay (Finger abv: 14% Price: $30 touch of citrus that lingers on the finish. —A.I. 86 Lakes). A wisp of smoke lends nuance to abv: 13% Price: $14 aromas of apple and white peach on this dry, re- Animale 2011 Carmenère (Red Mountain). freshingly citric Chardonnay. The palate builds in 86 Sourced from Kiona’s End of the Road vine- Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Estate Bottled bulk and body with concentrated flavors of savory yard, this pure Carmenère is packed with plenty of 88 Unoaked Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Scents apples layered in smoke and earth. Drink now. —A.I. that grape’s pyrazine and stem scents and flavors. of blossom and ripe white peach are touched with abv: 13.5% Price: $16 A splash of Cabernet Franc was added to the final smoke and earth on this dry, full-bodied Chardon- blend. Somehow flavors of mint and chocolate have nay. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, the pal- Bloomer Creek 2011 Unfined & Unfiltered been introduced, along with the quite tart, pale red ate is chock full of juicy white grapefruit flavor. A 85 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Savory tones fruits. —P.G. touch of crushed-stone minerality adds elegance. of pressed apple and pear contrast with pretty or- abv: 14.7% Price: $25 Refreshing yet satisfying, this is a wine with wide ange-blossom aromas on this unusually light-footed appeal. —A.I. Chardonnay. A blend of equal parts oak and stain- abv: 13.4% Price: $15 less-steel ferment, it’s concentrated with pear and NEW YORK lemon flavors. Finishes a bit short. —A.I. Atwater 2012 Cecil Chardonnay (Finger abv: 11.3% Price: $20 CHARDONNAY 87 Lakes). Whiffs of smoke and earth meld into pretty aromas of white flower, apple and lemon on King’s Garden Vineyards 2012 Barrel Fer- Red Tail Ridge 2012 Barrel Fermented Limited this ripe, richly bodied Chardonnay. Layers of cream 85 mented Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Savory 91 Release Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Delicate and stone fruit build on the palate, but are balanced tones of pressed apples and pears build in spice layers of smoke, vanilla and spice lavish this tex- by a brisk lemon-toned acidity. Drink now while and concentration on the palate of this Chardonnay, tured Chardonnay that’s remarkably light on its young. —A.I. layered in decadent swathes of caramel and cream. feet. Fermentation in a variety of oak barrels lends abv: 12.9% Price: $13 It’s rich and round in mouthfeel with bold alcohol nuance to bright apple, pear and honeysuckle notes and body, but balanced with lemony acidity on the on the palate and mouthfeel that’s rich, creamy and Charles Fournier 2012 Gold Seal Vineyards finish. —A.I. round. Brisk acidity cuts through the finish.Edi - 87 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Ripe white abv: 13.1% Price: $14 tors’ Choice. —A.I. peach and pear notes are juicy and penetrating on abv: 12% Price: $16 this bright, juicy Chardonnay, with surprising depth Swedish Hill 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Fin- on the palate. It’s robustly structured with a rich, 84 ger Lakes). Pressed apple notes are touched Fox Run 2013 Doyle Family Vineyard Char- full body that’s cut by zesty lime acidity. It finishes with butter and creamed corn on this savory-style 89 donnay (Finger Lakes). For full review see moderately long. —A.I. Chardonnay. It’s rich and full on the palate with a page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 satisfying silkiness that’s brightened with lemony abv: 12% Price: $11 acidity. —A.I. Heron Hill 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fin- abv: 13% Price: $17 Lamoreaux Landing 2010 Estate Bottled 87 ger Lakes). Crisp apple and pear flavors are 89 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Finger touched with white floral notes on this nervy, light- King’s Garden Vineyards 2011 Barrel Ferment- Lakes). Fresh, crisp apple and pear are touched with footed Chardonnay. A juicy, ripe apple flavor makes 83 ed Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Smoke and delicate swathes of cream and oyster shell on this it a widely appealing, easy quaffer. —A.I. toast dominate the nose of this barrel-fermented elegant, impeccably balanced Chardonnay. The pal- abv: 12% Price: $14 Chardonnay, and overpower subtle apple and pear ate is brisk with lemon and lime acidity, but builds flavors on the palate. It’s a bit earthy and savory in in richness and texture on the finish. A remarkable Lakewood 2012 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). style, but bright with citrus acidity. —A.I. value at $13. Best Buy. —A.I. 87 Fresh apples and cream meld on the nose abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.3% Price: $13 and palate of this creamy, richly textured Chardon- nay. It’s densely structured with bold alcohol and King’s Garden Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay Glenora 2012 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay generous swathes of oak, but crisp acidity adds lev- 81 (Finger Lakes). While relatively neutral on 88 (Finger Lakes). Zest and floral notes abound ity and elegance. Finishes moderately long. —A.I. the nose with notes of savory apple and pear, the on this refreshingly dry Chardonnay. Satisfyingly abv: 13.9% Price: $13 palate is deeply earthy with flavors of mushroom juicy and tart, it’s penetrating on the palate with and dried herb. Light in body and alcohol, it’s brisk flavors of white grapefruit and fresh green apple. Heron Hill 2012 Ingle Vineyard Unoaked on the palate with a streak of lemon-lime acidity. Finishes briskly but with a lingering lime-skin as- 86 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Fresh lemon, —A.I. tringency. —A.I. tangerine and apricot notes abound in this juicy, abv: 12.1% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $16 easy-going Chardonnay. Lack of oak aging highlights
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for such a big-bodied wine, but with ample acidity. GEWÜRZTRAMINER Nuances of tea leaves and potpourri linger on the RIESLING finish. —A.I. Fox Run 2012 Gewürztraminer (Finger abv: 14.8% Price: $17 Red Tail Ridge 2013 RTR Estate Vineyard Dry 90 Lakes). Aromas of ripe mango, lychee and 91 Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see rose leap from the glass on this opulent Gewürztra- Wagner 2012 Dry Gewürztraminer (Finger page 8. Editors’ Choice. miner. It’s off-dry in style with a rich, silky mouth- 85 Lakes). The nose on this dry Gewürztra- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 feel, but kept in check with a streak of lemony acid- miner is a tad savory with hints of smoke and earth. ity and tones of tea leaf and potpourri. Bold, lush By contrast, the palate is lavish with pink grape- Sheldrake Point 2013 Dry Riesling (Finger and decadent, but very tasty. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. fruit and lychee flavors and a bright, fresh tangerine 90 Lakes). While buoyantly fruity with notes abv: 13% Price: $20 acidity. Nicely balanced in body and alcohol. —A.I. of ripe peach, apricot and melon, this dry, delicately abv: 12.7% Price: $13 framed Riesling also has an intensely mineral char- Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Dry Estate Bottled acter. On the palate, a shower of crushed stone and 90 and Grown Gewürztraminer (Seneca Lake). Heron Hill 2012 Reserve Gewürztraminer lime acidity pierces through a long, lingering finish. Intense notes of lychee, spice and rose petal per- 83 (Finger Lakes). Pollen and dusty mineral —A.I. fume this elegant, classically-styled Gewürztra- tones lend earthiness to melon and lychee aromas abv: 11.4% Price: $16 miner. Just off dry, the palate feels rich and tex- on this off-dry Gewürztraminer. Medium bodied in tured despite moderate alcohol and body. Flavors of style, it balances tart tangerine acidity with a round, Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Homestead melon and tropical fruit are concentrated and juicy, rich mouthfeel. —A.I. 89 Reserve Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely accented with soft, lemon acidity. Finishes surpris- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 mineral on the nose with aromas of wet granite ingly dry. —A.I. and steel, this delicate dry Riesling builds in floral, abv: 12.5% Price: $25 fruity exuberance on the palate. Fleshy and ripe GRÜNER VELTLINER with white peach and honeydew flavors, it finishes Bellangelo 2012 Gewürztraminer (Finger long with hints of zesty lime pith. —A.I. 88 Lakes). Tart tangerine and fresh herbal Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Grüner Veltliner abv: 13% Price: $24 tones lend freshness to juicy lychee, jasmine and 89 (Finger Lakes). Lavishly floral with notes grapefruit flavors in this Gewürztraminer. Just a of orange blossom and lemon candy, Konstantin Sheldrake Point 2012 Reserve Dry Riesling shade off dry, it’s deeply concentrated on the pal- Frank’s Grüner Veltliner is another standout for the 89 (Finger Lakes). While demure on the nose ate and finishes with an exotic sizzle of ginger spice. region. Dry and medium-bodied in style, the palate with just hints of yellow peach and spice, this dry, —A.I. bursts with crisp white peach and nectarine against medium-bodied Riesling builds in intensity on abv: 12.9% Price: $17 a backdrop of lime zest and mineral tones. Editors’ the palate with concentrated flavors of tangerine Choice. —A.I. and yellow cherry. A streak of lemon-lime acidity Damiani 2012 Sunrise Hill Vineyard Gewürz- abv: 12% Price: $15 stretches out the finish. —A.I. 88 traminer (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of lychee abv: 12.3% Price: $30 and pink grapefruit accent fresh florals on this Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Grüner Veltliner slightly off-dry Gewürztraminer. It’s plush on the 89 (Finger Lakes). Grüner Veltliner is fairly Atwater 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). palate with juicy stone-fruit flavors, but also bright new to the Finger Lakes, but Hazlitt’s exemplifies 88 Punchy and bright with tones of honey, with lemony acidity. Finishes elegantly with a mur- the grape variety’s promise in the region. Touched pineapple and quince, this medium-sweet Riesling mur of tea-leaf tannins. —A.I. with honeycomb and lemon on the nose, it’s ripe is an alarm clock to the senses. Juicy and forward, abv: 13.9% Price: $19 and rich on the palate with concentrated flavors of with a streak of sunny, lemon acidity, it’s a straight- white peach, melon and apricot. Bright with acidity, forward but unabashedly satisfying quaffer. —A.I. Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Gewürztra- it finishes long with hints of green herb and lime. abv: 10.2% Price: $17 88 miner (Finger Lakes). There’s an unusually Editors’ Choice. —A.I. fresh, green tone accenting more characteristic flo- abv: 13.2% Price: $18 Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2012 Dry Riesling ral and fruit tones on this Gewürztraminer. It’s dry 88 (Finger Lakes). White blossom and honey in style, but intensely concentrated with flavors of Fulkerson 2012 William Vigne Grüner Velt- notes perfume this intensely aromatic dry Riesling. ripe grapefruit streaked with wax and honey. Rich, 84 liner (Seneca Lake). Aromas of pressed The medium-bodied palate is concentrated, with round and luscious, it finishes elegantly with a hint apple and pear are savory and earthy on this brisk, flavors of zesty white grapefruit, nectarine and just of tea-leaf astringency. —A.I. medium-bodied Grüner Veltliner. There’s a dusty a shade of wet-stone minerality on the finish. An abv: 13% Price: $18 minerality that lingers through the midpalate, but elegant quaffer. —A.I. the finish is bright and lemony. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15 Rooster Hill 2012 Estate Gewürztraminer abv: 12% Price: $14 88 (Finger Lakes). Spicy ginger and smoke Glenora 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). tones meld with ripe grapefruit on this unusually Stony Lonesome 2012 Estate Reserve Grüner 88 There’s a sense of familiarity in the scent refreshing Gewürztraminer. The palate is juicy with 83 Veltliner (Finger Lakes). Dusty mineral tones of lemon candy that wafts from this slightly off-dry characteristic lychee and rose-petal flavors, but and pressed apple aromas lend a savoriness to this Riesling. Medium-bodied in style, it’s juicy on the brisk and bright, with a shower of lemony acidity. dry, full-bodied Grüner Veltliner. The palate boasts palate with ripe melon and peach flavors accented —A.I. a fresher fruit profile, with bright apple and lemon with tangerine acidity. Delicate hints of tea leaf and abv: 12.5% Price: $18 flavors that wrap up briskly on the finish. —A.I. lemon zest add nuance. Drink now for it’s youthful abv: 13% Price: $16 exuberance. —A.I. Lakewood 2012 Gewurztraminer (Finger abv: 12% Price: $15 87 Lakes). Intensely aromatic with notes of flowers and ripe tropical fruits, this is a lush, tex- Silver Thread 2013 Dry Riesling (Finger tured Gewurztraminer with massive power and 88 Lakes). Ripe, rich peach, pineapple and brawn. Just off dry in style, it’s surprisingly elegant mango aromas lend a plump, opulent feel to this
78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 dry-style Riesling. The palate balances mineral in- Swedish Hill 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Rooster Hill 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). tensity with streaks of peach and honeydew flavor 87 Punchy lemon and lime acidity lends a bris- 85 Hints of smoke and nut lend a savory tone to and bristling lime acidity. Finishes long with a kiss tling tone to this dry, concentrated Riesling full of fresh pear and yellow peach on this dry, full-bodied of white blossoms. —A.I. white grapefruit and stone fruit flavors. Medium- Riesling. Textured and expansive on the palate, it’s abv: 12.3% Price: $18 bodied on the palate, it’s a zesty, refreshing wine brightened by a splash of white-grapefruit acidity. with a minerally finish. —A.I. Finishes moderately long. —A.I. Treleaven 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 12.7% Price: $16 88 Lakes). Minerality and fruit take turns hog- ging the spotlight in this elegant off-dry Riesling. Treleaven 2012 Dry Riesling (Cayuga Lake). A Rooster Hill 2012 Medium-Sweet Riesling While brisk and breezy on the palate, it calibrates 87 fine dusting of granite and steel coats zesty 85 (Finger Lakes). Spice and earth tones ac- concentrated white grapefruit and peach flavors lemons and limes on this steely, dry Riesling. Excep- cent pressed apple and preserved apricot notes in with deep tones of wax, wet stone and steel. Fin- tionally light on its feet, it bristles with acidity and this medium-sweet Riesling. It’s demure in fruit ishes long with an airy wisp of blossom. —A.I. a stark, lean mineral tone. It’s unusually mineral for concentration, but bright and easy drinking with a abv: 11.3% Price: $14 the Finger Lakes, but satisfying. —A.I. shower of tart tangerine acidity on the finish. —A.I. abv: 10.9% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2012 Semidry 87 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Delicate mineral in- Glenora 2012 Dalrymple Vineyard Select Swedish Hill 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). flections lend elegance to flavors of pink grapefruit 86 Harvest Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lemon ver- 85 Puckery lemon-lime acidity is a bright con- and peach on this sprightly semi-dry Riesling. Sun- bena and blossom perfume this bright, fresh, medi- trast to sweet honey tones on this medium-dry ny with soft, Meyer-lemon acidity, it’s a bit dainty um-bodied Riesling. There’s a bit of a confectionery Riesling. Shades of dusty minerals lend a savory on the palate but has enough power to drive a mod- tone to the rich, ripe honeydew and apricot flavors tone to ruddy apple and pear flavors on the palate. erately long finish. —A.I. on the mid palate, but squeaky-clean citrus acidity —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 wraps things up tight. —A.I. abv: 11.8% Price: $16 abv: 11% Price: $25 Fox Run 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Wagner 2012 Select Riesling (Finger Lakes). 87 Lakes). Wisps of smoke and earth lend a Keuka Spring 2012 Semi Sweet Riesling 85 Fleshy and ripe with flavors of sweet yel- dark, mysterious tone to flavors of fresh apple, 86 (Finger Lakes). Freshly pressed apples and low peach touched with honey, this is an easy going melon and pineapple on this delicate off-dry Ries- pears are touched with honey on this juicy medium- medium-sweet Riesling. There’s a touch of savory ling. Lemon-lime acidity pierces the palate, driving sweet Riesling. Brisk, brash lemony acidity jolts the smoke and spice that persists from nose to finish, a long, honey-kissed finish. —A.I. midpalate, extending to a sweet kiss of peach on the but overall, it’s bright and sunny with lingering abv: 10.2% Price: $14 finish. Refreshing and quaffable. —A.I. lemon acidity. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $14 abv: 11.2% Price: $13 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Riesling (Finger 87 Lakes). Intense notes of crushed stones and Wagner 2012 Caywood East Vineyard Dry Four Degrees of Riesling 2012 0 Degree Dry wet rocks lend a minerally tone to fresh apples and 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fresh apple and 84 Riesling (Seneca Lake). Faithful to its label, pears on this crisp, puckery medium-dry Riesling. pear are slicked with honey on this bold, full-bodied this zero-degree residual-sugar Riesling is stark, Refreshing and elegant, it’s a versatile wine for ev- Riesling. While dry in style, it’s lush and fruity with steely and intensely dry. Bracing lemon acidity and eryday entertaining. —A.I. a bristle of lemon-lime acidity that shines on the tart green-apple flavors lend a tight, unyielding feel abv: 11% Price: $13 finish. —A.I. to the palate, but it’s a refreshing accompaniment abv: 13.2% Price: $15 to creamy pasta or chicken dishes. Drink now. —A.I. Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling (Fin- abv: 11% Price: $16 87 ger Lakes). Fresh, zesty lime notes mingle Lakewood 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). with aromas of ripe peach and honeysuckle on this 85 Whiffs of apple, pear and lemon scent this Four Degrees of Riesling 2012 2nd Degree lean, revitalizing dry Riesling. Steely, rather than dry, delicately structured Riesling. It’s brisk and 84 Medium Sweet Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lush overtly fruity, the palate has a honed minerality ac- sprightly on the palate, with flavorful streaks of and tropical with rich, ripe streaks of pineapple and centuated by streaks of lemon-lime acidity. —A.I. lemon and melon that stretch out the finish, ending mango, this medium-sweet Riesling is unabashedly abv: 11.5% Price: $16 on a slightly savory mineral tone. —A.I. forward and fruity, but hints of earth and dust on abv: 11.7% Price: $13 the midpalate lend a dark tone. Light on its feet, Hosmer Winery 2012 Riesling (Cayuga Lake). with a lemony finish. —A.I. 87 Richly concentrated with ripe tropical mel- Lucas Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger abv: 10% Price: $14 ons and mangoes, this juicy, fruity, off-dry Riesling 85 Lakes). Scents of freshly-pressed apple waft is a straightforward yet undeniably tasty pick. It’s from this crisp, easy-drinking Riesling. Refreshingly Four Degrees of Riesling 2012 1st Degree Me- zesty and fresh, with tart tangerine acidity that light on its feet, with sprightly lemon and lime acid- 83 dium Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). This off-dry wraps the finish up crisply. —A.I. ity, it finishes moderately long with delicate apple Riesling boasts pretty fresh apple and floral notes on abv: 11.9% Price: $15 and pear flavors. —A.I. the palate, but persisting notes of dried herbs and abv: 11.2% Price: $13 spring ramps distract. Sprightly on the palate with Lucas Vineyards 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling delicate lemon acidity. —A.I. 87 (Finger Lakes). Stony mineral notes lend a McGregor 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Fin- abv: 10% Price: $16 stately feel to this off-dry Riesling bursting with 85 ger Lakes). Ripe peach and floral aromas ripe peach, tangerine and quince flavors. It’s brisk waft from this sprightly off-dry Riesling. A hint of Fulkerson 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). and bright on the palate with a lingering finish of pressed apple lends a savory feel to the mid palate, 83 Bruised apple notes scent this dry-style lime and lemon zest. —A.I. but it finishes briskly with a squirt of lemon and Riesling. The palate exhibits glimpses of fresh apple abv: 11.4% Price: $13 lime. —A.I. and pear flavors, but there’s a savory, earthy tone abv: 11% Price: $18
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throughout. Bristling acidity lingers on the finish. The palate is textured and bold with flavors of flavors wrapped in a coat of fine, elegant tannins. —A.I. pressed apple that linger on the finish. —A.I. Elegant yet powerfully concentrated. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $20
McGregor 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Red Newt Cellars 2012 Curry Creek Vineyards Hosmer Winery 2011 Cabernet Franc (Cayuga 83 Dusty mineral notes lend an earthy tone to 85 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Scents of waxy 88 Lake). Smoke and dark granite lend a min- this light-bodied, dry Riesling. On the palate, fla- honeycomb and crushed minerals waft from this eral tone to aromas of red cherry and currant on this vors of savory pressed apples are accented a bris- off-dry Pinot Gris. On the palate, lush, ripe peach juicy, concentrated Cabernet Franc. The palate is tling lemon-zest astringency. Finishes briskly. —A.I. and melon flavors penetrate. It’s unabashedly fruity ripe with blackberry flavors marked by zippy acidity abv: 11.5% Price: $20 and forward with a bold, heavy mouthfeel. —A.I. and a bold, tannic finish. Drink now with a quick abv: 13.5% Price: $24 decant, or enjoy over the next 3-5 years. —A.I. Charles Fournier 2012 Gold Seal Vineyards abv: 12.7% Price: $18 82 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Hints of earth and spice accent savory apple aromas on this slightly ROSÉS Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Estate Bottled off-dry Riesling. Brisk lemon and lime acidity make 88 T23 Unoaked Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). it a refreshing, if straightforward, Riesling. —A.I. Damiani 2013 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). Lush Bright cranberry notes perfume this fresh, fruit- abv: 12% Price: $16 89 with ripe red raspberry and cherry flavors, forward Cabernet Franc. Red cherry and berry fla- yet nervy with acidity and minerality, this dusty- vors are tart and juicy on the palate, marked with Hosmer Winery 2012 Single Wheel Dry Ries- rose rosé is quaffable yet remarkably nuanced. It’s soft tannins and just a hint of bitterness on the fin- 82 ling (Finger Lakes). Savory notes of spring rich and silky on the palate with a lingering cherry ish. —A.I. ramp and clay mingle with fresh apple and blossom blossom perfume on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13.1% Price: $20 on this dry, light-bodied Riesling. Earthy, savory abv: 12.7% Price: $16 tones extend on the palate as well, but finish briskly Swedish Hill 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger with a streak of lemony acidity. —A.I. Knapp 2013 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). Dusty 88 Lakes). Exuberant on the nose with aromas abv: 11.5% Price: $18 84 mineral and earth tones lend a savory feel of ripe red cherries, peppery spices, herbs and just to delicate cherry and red-plum flavors in this pale a touch of funky earth tones, there’s a pleasurable Fulkerson 2010 Reserve Riesling (Finger pink rosé. Bright, fresh raspberry-lemonade acidity rusticity to this Cabernet Franc. It’s boldly struc- 81 Lakes). Smoke wafts amidst savory notes of bristles on the palate. —A.I. tured with rich body and dense, drying tannins that apple on this dry, slightly bitter Riesling. Crisp lem- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 hug the finish. It’s lovely now, but should continue ony acidity lends refreshment on the palate. —A.I. to evolve well over the next 3-5 years. —A.I. abv: 11.8% Price: $13 Ravines 2013 Dry Pinot Rosé (Finger Lakes). abv: 13% Price: $17 84 Fresh raspberry and cherry aromas are bright and fresh on this dry, dusty-pink rosé. It’s Damiani 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). OTHER WHITE WINES crisp with acidity and juicy with tart, red-fruit fla- 87 While the nose on this Cabernet Franc is vor, but there’s an earthy, savory tone that lingers fresh and bright with primary red-cherry and plum Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Rkatsiteli (Finger throughout. —A.I. aromas, there’s an earthy rusticity that extends 88 Lakes). While delicately floral on the nose, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA through the palate. Zippy cranberry flavors are this Rkatsiteli (an ancient Georgian grape) builds touched with shades of autumn leaves and savory in intensity on the palate with flavors of ripe white Shalestone 2013 Beyond Rosé (Finger herbs. The finish is marked by a crush of mouth- peach balanced with searing lime acidity. Light 83 Lakes). Ruby in color yet delicate in extract, dampening tannins. Enjoy now with a decant. —A.I. on its feet and zesty to the finish, it’s a refreshing this blend of Zweigelt and Lemberger is a conces- abv: 12% Price: $22 quaffer with wide appeal despite its unusual name. sion between a red and rosé wine. On the palate, —A.I. bright red-berry flavors are layered in unusual tones Fox Run 2009 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). abv: 12% Price: $15 of caramel and spice. The label suggests it can be 87 Hints of cedar add spice and warmth to aro- served both chilled and at room temperature. —A.I. mas of ripe red plums and cherries on this sprightly Goose Watch 2012 Pinot Grigio (Finger abv: 12% Price: $18 Cabernet Franc. The palate is tart with cranberry 86 Lakes). Waxy white florals perfume fresh acidity but builds in richness and body, finishing lemons and apples on this dry Pinot Grigio. It’s not with a fringe of velvety tannins. —A.I. deeply concentrated with fruit flavor, but the rich CABERNET FRANC abv: 12% Price: $20 mouthfeel is balanced nicely with streaks of zippy lime and lemon acidity. —A.I. Atwater 2012 North Block Six Cabernet Franc Rooster Hill 2012 Savina and Catherine Vine- abv: 13% Price: $16 88 (Finger Lakes). A spray of violet perfumes 87 yards Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Aromas ripe blueberries and blackberries on this deep, rich of ripe, rich cherry preserves perfume this plush, Heron Hill 2012 Reserve Morris Vineyard Pi- Cabernet Franc. Lusciously full in body, the palate fruit-forward Cabernet Franc. Bold in body and 86 not Blanc (Finger Lakes). Hints of spring is a concentrated crush of black fruit flavor accent- texture, it’s richly concentrated with red berry and ramps and earth blow off with aeration to reveal ed with brisk acidity and soft, velveteen tannins on cherry flavor. Finishes brightly with a streak of sour pretty floral and lemon aromas on this off-dry, sin- the finish. —A.I. cherry acidity. —A.I. gle-vineyard Pinot Blanc. The palate is a bit demure abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 in fruit concentration, but brisk lemon-lime acidity shines through the richly textured palate. —A.I. Billsboro 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger Shaw 2007 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). abv: 12.5% Price: $18 88 Lakes). Ripe red-cherry aromas are ac- 87 Hints of potpourri and spice waft over aro- cented with hints of menthol and bramble on this mas of ripe blackberries and bramble wood on this Heron Hill 2012 Reserve Pinot Gris (Finger bright, invigorating Cabernet Franc. The palate is punchy, concentrated Cabernet Franc. Aged four 86 Lakes). Aromas of fresh apricots and pears brisk with a shock of tart red-cherry and cranberry years in French oak, it has a nuanced complexity meld with lavish florals on this off-dry Pinot Blanc. that shows itself in shades of earth, toast and smoke
80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 that accent its tart red-fruit flavors. Finishes long dark mineral tones. Finishing long with a flurry of into rich blackberry preserves. By contrast, the pal- with a hint of herbaceous green. —A.I. velvety tannins. —A.I. ate is quite restrained and mineral in character with abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 12.3% Price: $26 flavors of tart, crisp berries and cherries lined with fine, dusty tannins. A happy medium of ripeness Shalestone 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger Glenora 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger balanced with nuance and structure. —A.I. 86 Lakes). Unusually aromatic with notes of 87 Lakes). Mocha and spice notes add to the abv: 13% Price: $19 preserved cherries and plums accented with honey warm, plush feel of this deeply fruity, cherry-pie and brine, this is a rich, slightly rustic example of preserve Merlot. The palate is ruddy and rich with Stony Lonesome 2012 Estate Reserve Mer- Cabernet Franc. The palate is ruddy with flavors of ripe red fruit brightened by a soft sheen of sour- 88 lot (Finger Lakes). Notes of dried sage and dried cherry and fruit compote wrapped in layers cherry acidity. Finishes silky smooth with just a thyme persist, lending a nuanced complexity to this of grippy, coarse tannins. Finishes with a touch of touch of tannins. —A.I. crisp, medium-bodied Merlot. It’s elegant in style spice. Drink now. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $19 with concentrated blackberry and cherry flavors abv: 13% Price: $20 wrapped in layers of soft, velveteen tannins that King’s Garden Vineyards 2010 King’s Cab linger on the finish. —A.I. Six Mile Creek 2012 Cabernet Franc (Finger 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). There’s abv: 12% Price: $16 86 Lakes). Wisps of smoke and spice lend an a lavish spray of cherry blossom perfume amidst earthy tone to bright red cherry and plum flavors notes of sour cherries and plums on this tart, el- Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2012 Merlot on this smooth, richly textured Cabernet Franc. The egantly structured Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s concen- 88 (Finger Lakes). Woody, brambly notes lend palate is velvety plush with layers of fine, soft tan- trated with crisp red-berry flavor but balanced with an earthy complexity to fresh blackberry and cas- nins and soft berry acidity. Easy going but satisfy- a racy, invigorating acidity that stretches out the sis notes on this bright, brisk Merlot. A shower of ing. —A.I. finish. Drink soon to maximize its fresh, perfumed cranberry acidity jolts the palate and cuts through abv: 13.5% Price: $20 character. —A.I. the fine, but penetrating tannins that fringe the fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 ish. An elegant, refreshing example of a cool-climate Heron Hill 2011 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Merlot. —A.I. 85 Franc (Finger Lakes). The nose on this Cab- Sheldrake Point 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sau- abv: 12.8% Price: $20 ernet Franc seduces with scents of rich, ripe ber- 87 vignon (Finger Lakes). Tart and nervy, this ries and cherries accented with granite, vanilla and cool-climate Cabernet Sauvignon bristles with Belhurst 2010 Merlot (Seneca Lake). Fresh spice. The palate, however, is more reserved with a fresh cranberry and sour-cherry flavors. Concen- 87 red cherry and bramble notes are touched dusty, earthen tone that seeps into ruddy red-fruit trated with red fruit yet touched with complexities with mint, spice and vanilla on this concentrated, flavors. Brisk and medium-bodied, it finishes mod- of granite and steel, it’s an elegant choice for lighter textured Merlot. While it’s rich body and ripe berry erately long. —A.I. chicken or duck dishes. —A.I. flavors make it pleasing to a wide audience, zippy abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.6% Price: $45 cranberry acidity and a dark mineral tone on the finish lends complexity and balance. —A.I. King’s Garden Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Rooster Hill 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Fin- abv: 13% Price: $27 84 Franc (Finger Lakes). While pulpy and ripe 86 ger Lakes). Whiffs of smoke, soil and dried on the nose with aromas of blackberry and cherry herb lend a dark, savory tone to ripe cherry and cas- Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Merlot (Finger compote, this Cabernet Franc runs towards the sa- sis notes on this rustic Cabernet Sauvignon. The 87 Lakes). Hints of bramble, vanilla and spice vory side on the palate. Bold in body and alcohol, palate is juicy with fleshy red-fruit flavors but wrap accent aromas of ripe red berries and cherries on it’s rich with red fruit, but has a musty, earthen tone up tightly in a softly tannic finish. —A.I. this bold, richly concentrated Merlot. The palate that persists through the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $NA is crisp with sour cherry flavor, but nuanced with abv: 13.5% Price: $18 savory touches of cedar and earth. It’s a nicely com- McGregor 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon posed wine that finishes elegantly with a touch of 84 (Finger Lakes). Scents of fresh red cherries savory herbs. —A.I. CABERNET SAUVIGNON and bramble wood entice on the nose of this aro- abv: 13% Price: $26 matic, spice-toned Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate, Shaw 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger while crisp with cranberry acidity, is a bit subdued Standing Stone 2010 Merlot (Finger Lakes). 88 Lakes). Sweet spice and cedar notes waft with subtle red-fruit flavor and a finish that wraps 87 Intensely ripe aromas of blackberries and warmly amidst ripe blackberry and bramble aromas up short and tight. —A.I. cherries are touched with granite and bramble wood on this revitalizing Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate abv: 12.5% Price: $30 on this plush, somewhat sultry Merlot. The palate is tart and concentrated with cranberry and sour balances ripeness with crisp sour-cherry acidity cherry flavors. Finishes long with fine-grained yet Standing Stone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon and swathes of fresh, green herbs. Medium-bodied penetrating tannins. Drink now with a decant, or 84 (Finger Lakes). The tawny rim of this ruby- in style, it wraps up tightly with a coating of chalky, allow another 2-3 years to let the wine soften and red Cabernet Sauvignon hints towards signs of early soft tannins. —A.I. meld. —A.I. evolution. It’s maturity is more evident on the pal- abv: 12.9% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $35 ate with somewhat demure flavors of dark cherry, cedar and herb accented by touches of autumn leaf, King’s Garden Vineyards 2010 Merlot (Fin- Bloomer Creek 2007 Vintner’s Select Un- soil and mushroom. Drink up now. —A.I. 86 ger Lakes). Rich, ripe scents of cherry pie 87 fined & Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon (Fin- abv: 13.2% Price: $25 and cherry cola waft from this profoundly aromatic ger Lakes). There’s a haunting floral perfume that Merlot. It’s boldly alcoholic and full bodied, but the persists amidst notes of intensely ripe berries and palate shows restraint with crisp red berry flavors cherries on this unusual, somewhat rustic Cabernet MERLOT highlighted by a streak of acidity. Soft, furry tannins Sauvignon. Relatively dainty in body and alcohol, coat the finish. —A.I. it’s accented with delicate sour-cherry acidity and Keuka Spring 2012 Merlot (Finger Lakes). abv: 13.7% Price: $18 88 The nose of this Merlot is lush and seduc- tive with whiffs of vanilla, mocha and spice melding
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bright but a bit demure, and laced with a sheen of Shaw 2007 Keuka Hill Reserve Red Table PINOT NOIR minerals on the finish. —A.I. 88 Wine (Finger Lakes). Hints of toasted rye abv: 12.5% Price: $40 and cedar accentuate red cherry and blackberry Hosmer Winery 2012 Pinot Noir (Cayuga flavors in this lush but strikingly brisk Bordeaux- 86 Lake). Delicate floral and bramble notes ac- Hosmer Winery 2011 Lemberger (Cayuga blend. Aged four years in barrel, it’s shaded with cent bright sour-cherry and currant notes on this 87 Lake). Deeply concentrated aromas of ripe tones of savory dried herbs and earth, but still rich, concentrated Pinot Noir. It’s fresh and fruity blackberries and cherries intoxicate on the nose of muscular in profile with bold, mouthfilling tannins. on the palate with a shock of cranberry flavor and this medium-bodied Lemberger. By contrast, the —A.I. just a hint of tannins that extend the finish. —A.I. palate is more crisp and tart in fruit profile with abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.2% Price: $18 delicate flavors of sour red cherries and plums. A refreshing style of red to pair with lighter meat and Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2012 Meritage Shalestone 2012 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). fowl dishes. —A.I. 88 (Finger Lakes). Violet florals lend a stylish 86 Smoke and crushed granite lend a mineral abv: 12.7% Price: $18 flair to ripe blackberry and plum notes on this per- tone to bright raspberry and cherry notes on this fumed Bordeaux-style blend. It’s velvety and rich on concentrated, juicy Pinot Noir. Sour cherry and red Keuka Spring 2012 Lemberger (Finger Lakes). the palate with ripe, concentrated black-fruit fla- currant penetrate the palate, extending to a slightly 87 While scents of blueberry and blackberry vor, but balanced with tart cranberry acidity and a astringent finish. Drink now to enjoy its youthful, preserves seem lush and ripe on the nose of this me- lingering granite note. An elegantly composed cool- fruity character. —A.I. dium-bodied Lemberger, the palate is surprisingly climate red. —A.I. abv: 12.9% Price: $25 bright and refreshing. Sour cherry acidity shines a abv: 12.4% Price: $25 spotlight on flavors of crisp raspberry and currant, Bellwether 2011 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Pi- finishing with a ruffle of soft, fine tannins. —A.I. Heron Hill 2010 Eclipse (New York). Dried 85 not Noir (Finger Lakes). There’s an elegant abv: 12.5% Price: $19 87 cherry and blackberry aromas abound on spray of violet that persists from start to finish on this robustly fruity, yet elegant Bordeaux-style this delicately structured Pinot Noir. Light in body wine. High proportions of Cabernet Franc and Mer- with delicate swathes of red cherry, plum and earth, RED BLENDS lot seem to accentuate flavors of ripe red-cherries it finishes with a murmur of soft, astringent tan- touched with bramble and mint. Velvety tannins nins. —A.I. Atwater 2012 Big Blend (Finger Lakes). True penetrate through the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $30 89 to it’s name, this blend of traditional Bor- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 deaux grape varieties plus Syrah is big and bold in Heron Hill 2011 Ingle Vineyard Pinot Noir flavor and mouthfeel. It’s also remarkably elegant, Sheldrake Point 2012 Reserve Meritage (Fin- 85 (Finger Lakes). The nose on this Pinot Noir however, balancing rich black cherry flavor with 87 ger Lakes). There’s a deep mineral tone that is fresh and bright with scents of fresh raspberries tart cranberry notes and layers of savory spice and persists throughout this plush, velvety Meritage, touched with granite minerality. Medium bodied in herb. Fine-grained tannins penetrate the finish. accenting ripe cherry flavor with granite, and hints style, the palate is marked by flavors of cherry cola Drink now with a decant, or allow to mellow over of savory herb with dust and clay. The palate cuts and currant, wrapping up with a bitter almond fin- the next 3-5 years. —A.I. rich berry flavors with brisk acidity and ruffles of ish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $22 soft tannins that extend the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $28 Keuka Spring 2011 Miller’s Cove Red (New Silver Thread 2012 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). 89 York). The Miller’s Cove Red is a blend of Glenora 2012 Meritage (Finger Lakes). While 85 Intensely ripe on the nose with scents of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that shows an ex- 85 crisp and bright on the nose with aromas juicy black cherries and plums, this is an easy, softly ceptionally fine calibration of ripe, concentrated of red cherries swathed with green herbs, this full- structured Pinot Noir with moderate flavor concen- cherry and berry flavors against a backdrop of bris- bodied Meritage is quite dense and rich on the pal- tration. A spray of floral notes persists through the tling acidity. It’s refreshingly quaffable, yet nuanced ate. Green, tomato-leaf notes linger on the palate as finish adding flair. —A.I. with hints of spice, mineral and violet that linger well, accenting lush black cherry and berry flavors. abv: 12.4% Price: $22 softly on the finish. —A.I. It’s softly tannic with a tart cranberry note that lin- abv: 12.3% Price: $22 gers on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 LEMBERGER Bloomer Creek 2008 White Horse Unfined & 88 Unfiltered (Finger Lakes). Exotic spice and Silver Thread 2012 Blackbird (Finger Lakes). Damiani 2012 Sunrise Hill Vineyard Lem- bramble notes accent rich, ripe aromas of blackber- 85 Earth, smoke and herb tones accent aromas 88 berger (Finger Lakes). Bright red cherry ry preserves on this perfumed Bordeaux-style red. A of red berries and cherries on this tart, delicately- and raspberry flavors are pristine and ripe in this blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, there’s a plush, framed Bordeaux-style blend. A high proportion of powerful yet nuanced Lemberger. It’s remarkably primary fruitiness to the palate, but it’s elegantly Cabernet Franc lends an herbal, brambly tone to rich and full in body, but cranberry acidity makes it structured with bright cranberry acidity and finely- crisp cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Finishes zesty and refreshing on the palate. It finishes with a grained tannins that add texture to the finish. —A.I. moderately long. —A.I. touch of white pepper spice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $26 abv: 12.9% Price: $22 abv: 13.6% Price: $22 Shalestone 2010 Synergy (Finger Lakes). Swedish Hill 2010 Optimus (Finger Lakes). Heron Hill 2011 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Finger 88 Ripe, rich fruit penetrates through this 85 Sour red-cherry and tart cassis notes 87 Lakes). Extended aging in Hungarian oak lush, velvety blend of Cab, Merlot and Syrah. Fla- abound on this brisk, slightly puckery Bordeaux lends spice and vanilla tones to this crisp, delicate vors of black cherry and cassis are opulently layered blend. Medium bodied in style, it’s refreshing on the Blaufränkisch (also known as Lemberber). Sour in honey and vanilla, but cut with a balancing strike palate with a cool mineral tone, but could benefit cherry and red currant flavors on the palate are of tart cranberry acidity. Bold and decadent, yet from a boost of concentration. —A.I. quite simply tasty. —A.I. abv: 12.9% Price: $25 abv: 13.2% Price: $25
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Evan Williams Single Barrel 2004 Edition 94 (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). Number 19 in a series, this robust Bourbon offers big, butterscotch-like notes alongside touches of fresh apple, baking spice and a fiery cinnamon fin- SPIRITS ish. Best Buy. Beautiful Bourbons abv: 43.3% Price: $27
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2013 Vintage hanks to typical, rich notes of caramel and It’s not only American consumers who are 94 (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). This spice, Bourbon often tops the list of favor- taking to Bourbon, added famed whiskey scion limited-edition bottling is released once a year, ite spirits for fall. Fred Noe, Master Distiller at Jim Beam. “Foreign on Sept. 2, the birthdate of Old Forester founder It’s no mystery why: Bourbon is one markets around the world are sucking up Bour- George Garvin Brown. This one, aged 12 years, was Tof the most drinkable spirits around. Sure, it’s bon out of Kentucky,” he contended, particu- bottled in 2013. It’s bold, aromatic and sweet on the palate, with notes of toffee, oak and red fruit. It great to sip with a splash of branchwater. But larly Germany, Australia and emerging markets finishes long and spicy. Though it feels a bit hot, it it’s a cocktail favorite too, showing up in new such as China and India, where “many of drink- settles down with a modest amount of water into a and classic drinks ranging from ing age have never experienced warming, flavorful sip. the Boulevardier (with sweet Bourbon.” The Distilled Spirits abv: 49% Price: $55 vermouth and Campari) to mint Bourbon is one Council of the U.S. reports that Baker’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey juleps to endless riffs on the old of the most Bourbon exports have tripled 93 (USA; Jim Beam, Clermont, KY). Lean, dry fashioned. drinkable spirits over the last decade. and spicy, this seven-year-old small-batch Bourbon Of course, not just any old around... Of course, Can producers meet this may be reminiscent of of rye whiskey. It has a mild Bourbon will do. At the 2014 worldwide surge in demand? maple scent and complex layers of vanilla, cigar Bourbon Classic held earlier not just any old Not necessarily right away: wrapper, tea and orange peel, with a spicy finish. The alcohol feels moderate, even mellow, for over this year in Louisville, KY (the there’s a limited supply of whis- Bourbon will do. 100 proof. spiritual homeland of Bourbon, key, and that seven-year-old abv: 53.5% Price: $41 though it can be made elsewhere Bourbon needs some time to in the U.S.), producers noted that consumers rest in its oaken cradle. As Wheatley solemn- Old Forester 86 Proof (USA; Brown-Forman, are starting to prefer slightly older whiskies. ly noted, “we’ve proven there’s no way to cheat 93 Louisville, KY). This tawny Bourbon has a rich, spiced scent reminiscent of fruitcake. On the In general, “palates have changed from four- father time.” palate, look for caramel studded with dried cherry, year-old to seven-year-old Bourbons,” estimat- The Bourbon train shows no signs of stop- orange peel and clove, finishing quite dry. A great ed Harlan Wheatley, Master Distiller at Buffalo ping—and frankly, given the growing ranks of profile for classic cocktails, and not too precious to Trace. In addition, consumers “are leaning to- outstanding bottlings (see below), we wouldn’t mix. Best Buy. ward smaller-batch, higher-end whiskies,” a want it any other way. abv: 43% Price: $20 trend on the uptick. Cheers! —Kara Newman Oola Waitsburg Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Oola 93 Distillery, Seattle, WA). Surprisingly evolved for a three-year-old whiskey, this one has a four- grain mash bill (corn, wheat, barley and rye). It’s on the sweeter side, with notes of caramel and ha- Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary (USA; Wild Orphan Barrel Project: Barterhouse (USA; zelnut interspersed with orange peel and spice. It’s 97 Turkey, Lawrenceburg, KY). Made from a 96 Orphan Barrel Whiskey Distilling Co., Louis- mouthwatering, and would be particularly good in blend of very rare 13- to 16-year-old whiskies, this ville, KY). This is from a series of old and rare lim- an old-fashioned or other cocktails. bottling pays tribute to Master Distiller Jimmy Rus- ited-edition whiskies released by Diageo from their abv: 47% Price: $50 sell’s 60 years at the Wild Turkey Distillery. This Stitzel-Weller warehouses. It’s silky and surpris- light, silky Bourbon shows lots of vanilla-maple and ingly gentle for a 20-year-old whiskey, with notes of Orphan Barrel Whiskey Project: Old Blow- brown sugar flavors accented by a hint of peach, and creamy caramel, brown sugar and touches of tropi- 93 hard (USA; Orphan Barrel Whiskey Distilling tapers off delicately, with clove, cinnamon, ginger cal fruit and allspice. It finishes remarkably long, Co., Louisville, KY). One of a series of old and rare and burnt orange peel notes on the finish. with gentle vanilla sweetness. limited-edition whiskies released by Diageo from abv: 45.5% Price: $125 abv: 45.1% Price: $75 their Stitzel-Weller warehouses. Aged 26 years, this is a mighty, intense Bourbon. It’s dark amber Blanton’s Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey Booker’s Bourbon (USA; Jim Distilling, Cl- in the glass and richly aromatic, with caramel and 96 (USA; Sazerac Company; Frankfort, KY). 95 ermont, KY). This uncut, barrel-strength orange peel aromas. On the palate, it’s substantial Bold and well structured, this Bourbon features Bourbon is bold and flavorful. The caramel aroma and oaky, showing strong alcohol and a surprising warming vanilla and caramel accented by orange is rich and luxe. On the palate, it’s quite tannic and smokiness, which builds with repeated sips. peel, stone fruit and a dry baking-spice finish. Sip drying, but the flavor shines through, showing tof- abv: 45.4% Price: $150 it with a chunk of ice, or mix up a round of juleps. fee, caramel and dried cherry, with a spicy finish of The trademark round, faceted bottle with the horse- clove, dried fig and date. The alcohol feels remark- Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select (USA; topped cork is perfect for Derby Day. ably balanced despite the high proof. It needs no 93 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Look for abv: 46.5% Price: $55 adornment: just add a chunk of ice and enjoy. a gorgeous copper hue with orange highlights, a abv: 63% Price: $50 butterscotch-like aroma and soft feel. This Bourbon
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offers lots of fruit on the palate—orange, apricot, Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve (USA; Jim baked apple. Oak dominates the drying palate, but it tropical fruit—that finish long, with caramel and a 91 Beam, Clermont, KY). Though complex and finishes long, with plenty of creamy caramel flavor. bracing burnt-orange peel note. flavorful, the extremely high proof of this nine-year- abv: 47% Price: $40 abv: 45.2% Price: $33 old small-batch Bourbon means it won’t be for ev- eryone. Dose it with plenty of water (or your mixer Rebellion Bourbon (USA; Market Street Spir- Breaker Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Ascendant of choice) to enjoy the dry character with notes of 87 its, Bardstown, KY). Look for bold, beautiful 92 Spirits, Buellton, CA). This small-batch vanilla, leather, orange peel, clove, red-hot cinna- caramel aromatics, with a hint of dried apricot. At whiskey is made from a mix of corn, rye and malt- mon and a long caramel finish. 94 proof, this small-batch Bourbon, aged six years, ed barley. It has an orange-amber hue and nota- abv: 60% Price: $41 is quite hot, so expect to add water or a mixer to bly sweet aroma. On the palate, it’s soft with corn cool it down a bit. It feels soft on the palate and has sweetness on the entry, which quickly gives over Tin Cup American Whiskey (USA; Tin Cup a resiny flavor, finishing with vanilla, brown sugar, to a fruity flavor profile, showing lots of cherry and 90 Whiskey, Denver, CO). This high-rye Bour- clove and cinnamon heat. peach on the finish. bon (which oddly, doesn’t say “Bourbon” on the abv: 47% Price: $40 abv: 45% Price: $49 label though it meets the basic criteria) is bold and spicy, and plays well in cocktail combinations. A Red Handed Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Treaty Elijah Craig 21 Year Old Single Barrel Bourbon big oak and vanilla mix finishes with clove, dried 86 Oak Distilling Co., Austin, TX). Credit is due 92 (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). cherry, and a surprising, bright touch of lemon peel. for taking a creative approach: made with a blend Heaven Hill is offering a one-time-only limited allo- It’s not distilled in Colorado, but is cut with Rocky of whiskeys “from across the country” (Indiana, cation of the 21-year-old Bourbon, otherwise avail- Mountain water. Best Buy. Tennessee, Kentucky), the whiskey is re-barreled in able only at the distillery gift shop. It’s fairly oaky abv: 42% Price: $28 new American oak casks with seasoned staves, then and drying, but it also layers vanilla and caramel “aged in the hot Texas sun.” A sweet cinnamon- with Sherried fruit, finishing extraordinarily long, West of Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey No. 1 bun aroma belies a drier profile on the palate. It’s with sparks of allspice and black pepper. 90 (USA; Sonoma County Distilling, Rohnert on the oaky side, with cinnamon and vanilla notes, abv: 45% Price: $140 Park, CA). A Bourbon from wine country? Yes! This finishing brisk and dry. It feels relatively hot, but is one in a series of yearly small-batch releases cel- add water with care, since the flavor washes out a Knob Creek Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whis- ebrating “California Bourbon.” Made from corn, rye little too easily. 92 key (USA; Jim Beam Distillery, Clermont, KY). and cherry-smoked malted barley, look for a toasty abv: 42% Price: $30 Delicious but fiery, this nine-year-old small-batch brioche aroma and herbaceous accents. On the pal- Bourbon offers deep toffee aromatics and bold -fla ate, it’s dry and pleasantly light, suggesting cedar, BOURBON-BASED LIQUEURS vor. On the palate, look for relatively dry flavors: tea, honey, baking spice and oak. A subtly smoky leather, cedar, dried orange peel. A splash of water note emerges after the whiskey sits for a while. Con- AND FLAVORED BOURBONS softens the profile to bring out more vanilla, honey, sider mixing a boulevardier, with sweet vermouth even a touch of chocolate. and Campari. Vermont Spirits No. 14 Bourbon Whiskey abv: 50% Price: $31 abv: 47% Price: $60 92 (USA; Vermont Spirits, Quechee, VT). For full review see page 13. Woodford Reserve Double Oaked (USA; Old Forester Signature (USA; Brown-For- abv: 45% Price: $45 92 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). After the 89 man, Louisville, KY). At 100 proof, this is a usual aging time, this Bourbon is then moved to a bold and flavorful Bourbon, though also drying and William Wolf Pecan (Holland; Spirit Imports, heavily-toasted, lightly-charred barrel to extract quite hot, so add plenty of branchwater. It’s richly 91 Sunrise, FL). For full review see page 13. additional oak flavor. The end result is deep am- aromatic, evoking caramel with some fruity notes. abv: 30% Price: $28 ber in the glass, with bright spice cake and baked On the palate, the whiskey shows a drier, darker apple fragrance. On the palate, it’s lightly sweet side, with lots of Baker’s chocolate, espresso, leath- Mystic Bourbon Liqueur (USA; Barrister at first, showing creamy caramel, but finishes dry, er and oak. 89 & Brewer, Durham, NC). Herbaceous and with touches of espresso, oak and Baker’s chocolate. abv: 50% Price: $23 lightly sweet, this spiced Bourbon liqueur seems Overall, a bold, flavorful sipper. custom-made for cocktails—it would blend seam- abv: 45.2% Price: $50 Orphan Barrel Whiskey Project: Rhetoric lessly into a whiskey- or amaro-based drink. Look 89 (USA; Orphan Barrel Whiskey Distilling Co., for flashes of birch beer and cardamom that are lay- Belle Meade Sour Mash Straight Bourbon Louisville, KY). One of a series of old and rare lim- ered with rich maple and honey. 91 Whiskey (USA; Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery, ited-edition whiskies released by Diageo from their abv: 30% Price: $25 Nashville, TN). This addictive high-rye Bourbon, the Stitzel-Weller warehouses. Aged for 20 years (rela- first offering from the reincarnated Nelson’s Green tively long for Bourbon) and bottled in Tullahoma, Red Stag Hardcore Cider (USA; Jim Beam, Brier Distillery, offers a pleasing caramel scent and TN, oak seems to dominate the nose and palate. 87 Frankfort, KY). The latest addition to the dark, spicy flavors that evoke toffee and ginger- Look for a rich toffee scent with a whiff of oak and popular Red Stag line infuses Kentucky Bourbon bread, plus a citrusy tartness around the edges that a drying feel. High proof but flavorful, this Bourbon with natural apple cider and other flavors. It’s leads into a mellower vanilla note. offers lots of vanilla and baking spice flavor, with golden orange and bright, and light on the tongue. abv: 45.2% Price: $40 touches of smoke and red fruit around the edges, Expect a honey-sweet fragrance and rounded red- finishing long and powerful. apple flavor at the back of the palate. Chill well and Jim Beam Single Barrel (USA; Jim Beam, Cler- abv: 45% Price: $85 mix with ginger ale, or use it to sweeten whiskey 91 mont, KY). This new offering from Jim Beam drinks. has rich, intense maple and caramel aromas and fla- Bourbon from Watershed Distillery (USA; abv: 40% Price: $NA vors, plus oak and cinnamon on the brisk finish. At 88 Watershed Distillery, Columbus, OH). This 95 proof, adding water helps tame the alcohol heat small-batch Bourbon is made from a combination and lets the bold flavors lead from sip to sip. of corn, wheat, rye and spelt, aged for two and a abv: 47.5% Price: $35 half years. The end result is a brisk, tasty Bourbon, with a deep topaz hue and unique scents of oak and
84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014
New Glarus Wisconsin Belgian Red (Fruit 96 Beer; New Glarus Brewing Company, WI). Yet another world-class selection from New Glarus, this is brewed with whole Montmorency cherries, Wisconsin-farmed wheat and Belgian roasted bar- BEER ley, then lagered in oak tanks, hopped with Hal- Fruity and fabulous lertau and aged for a full year in the brewery. The resulting beer is a masterpiece of balance, flavor and complexity. Ruby in color, it is brimming with for- ruit beers are often quite polarizing— taneously fermented and blended with fresh ward aromas and flavors of tart cherry, with subtle generally, people either love them or hate fruits during secondary fermentation, these are accents of baking spice and pie crust. The carbon- them. Thankfully, there has been so much some seriously fruit-driven beers that exhibit ation is high, partnering with tart acidity to keep experimentation, from different base-beer the best of the ingredient alongside tart wild- the mouthfeel from feeling too heavy or sweet. The Fstyles to real-fruit additives and varying aging yeast flavors. They are also quite low in alcohol, refreshing, mouthwatering finish is long and clean, with yes, a strong, fresh cherry flavor alongside techniques, that today’s selections offer some- which means you can enjoy more without seri- hints of sweet spice and oak. thing for most palates, running the gamut from ous side effects. abv: 4% Price: $9/750 ml nuanced to in-your-face fruitiness, and just Although rooted in European tradition, turn about everything in between. to domestic brewer New Glarus The Bruery 2013 Edition Sour in the Rye with As an overall style, fruit Brewing in Wisconsin for some 96 Kumquats (American Wild Ale; The Bruery, CA). This special selection is made by adding fresh beers are loosely defined. They of the best American fruit beers Some of the best kumquats to The Bruery’s Sour in the Rye, a barrel- can be produced from a vari- fruit beers come produced today. Owners Daniel aged sour ale made with 40% rye malt. The result ety of base styles (like a wheat and Deb Carey have been pro- is a remarkably tart, fruity, refreshing and well- beer, pale ale or even stout) and from Belgium, ducing sour beers (often with balanced wild ale, with prominent aromas and fla- are often categorized as such, as where traditional locally-sourced fruit additions) vors of orange peel, pineapple core, tart gooseberry, white bitter-melon rind and kumquats, of course. you’ll see in the reviews below. since opening in 1993, and have lambics are king. It’s light- to medium-bodied, with medium carbon- Fresh fruit may be used, and of- made it a mission to produce ation and a strong seam of bright acidity that car- ten provides some of the best ex- beers using 100-percent nat- ries through to the mouthwatering finish, alongside amples, though some larger-production brew- ural ingredients. The latest addition to their hints of bitter orange and peppery spice. eries do use extract, syrup or processed flavor brewery is a wild fruit cave, a special area for abv: 7.6% Price: $25/750 ml instead. Typically there is little hop presence, experimenting with all of those wild yeasts and Odell Friek (American Wild Ale; Odell Brew- though there are exceptions, and alcohol is usu- microorganisms that contribute to their unique 94 ing Company, CO). This kriek lambic-style ally low to moderate, averaging 4–7 percent. sours, so watch as their impressive lineup con- beer is fermented with wild yeast and tart cher- Some of the best fruit beers come from Bel- tinues to grow. ries, then aged in oak. Raspberries from a local gium, where traditional lambics are king. Spon- Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Fort Collins, CO farm are added immediately prior to the final blending, resulting in a forward fresh- raspberry aroma on the nose. Additional layers of tart dried cherry, cocoa, peach skin and bretty funk New Glarus Raspberry Tart (Fruit Beer; New assertive raspberry core, framed by accents of oak add depth and complexity, carrying through to the 97 Glarus Brewing Company, WI). With over a and caramel malt. The tart acidity keeps the sweet medium-full mouth. There’s a bright line of acidity pound of raspberries in each bottle, this is a pow- flavors from feeling too strong or cloying, with a throughout, keeping the palate lively and the finish erful and extremely fruit-forward selection. A gor- lovely dusting of bittersweet cocoa that lingers on mouthwatering, with light astringency and a spiced geous, pristine deep-ruby hue, with a soft pink the long finish. vanilla accent on the finish. head is coupled with aromas that hit you immedi- abv: 8.5% Price: $13/375 ml abv: 6.5% Price: $20/750 ml ately upon opening and jump out of the glass once poured. Hints of sweet malt and wild yeast add New Glarus Strawberry Rhubarb (Fruit Beer; The Lost Abbey Red Poppy Ale (Flanders Red depth to the crisp and lively palate, with lifting 96 New Glarus Brewing Company, WI). This is 94 Ale; Port Brewing Company, CA). This pours acidity that complements the fresh raspberry flavor a beautifully complex and layered selection, with a hazy mahogany color with red glimmers and a nice and ends long and refreshing on the finish. This is a prominent pure-fruit aromas and flavors that are light-tan head. There’s a vinous character to the must-try, pristine fruit beer. perfectly partnered with sour wild-yeast and bar- bouquet, with tart, acidic aromas of sour cherry abv: 4% Price: $9/750 ml rel notes. It pours a rich mahogany color, with fairly and red wine vinegar that are partnered with notes aggressive carbonation that produces a decent off- of oak and raw cocoa powder. Medium carbonation The Lost Abbey Framboise de Amorosa white head. Immediate fruit aromas lead the bou- and moderate acidity keep the palate lifted and 97 (American Wild Ale; Port Brewing Company, quet, supported by a tart, almost vinous backbone juicy, while subtle funk and earthy oak notes add CA). This is a blended and barrel-aged brown ale and accents of cocoa and earth. The palate offers character to the cherry and caramel-malt flavors. that’s brewed with wild yeasts and fresh raspber- more of the same, but with the acidic vibrancy and The finish is tart and dry, with an attractive note of ries. It’s a complex and evolving selection, with tart rhubarb flavor playing key roles in taming the chocolate-covered Cherry and sweet oak. intriguing spice and oak nuances that unfold with sweet strawberry sensations. The texture is smooth, abv: 6.5% Price: $13/375 ml time and warming, making this an excellent option and the long, evolving finish transitions from ripe for wine drinkers. Rich raspberry and cocoa butter fruit flavors to tart berry and finally earthy accents The Bruery 2013 Edition Sans Pagaie (Ameri- aromas lead, with glimmers of peppery spice, leath- of pastry, cocoa bean and bark. 93 can Wild Ale; The Bruery, CA). Sans Pagaie, er and sour funk adding depth. The palate offers an abv: 4% Price: $9/750 ml meaning “without a paddle,” is The Bruery’s take on
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a Belgian-style kriek, a sour blonde ale aged in bar- but complemented by vinous hints of blackberry, rels with cherries. A muddled pink color, scents of licorice and sour funk. Medium-plus carbonation sour cherry take center stage alongside funky notes keeps the palate fresh and lively, ending clean and of barnyard, vinegar and lemony citrus that dance in refreshing. A nice beach day or poolside sipper. the background. The assertive carbonation is brisk, abv: 3.5% Price: $6/12 oz complementing the sour core of tart cherry, white grape and lemon flavors. Hints of oaky vanilla and Lindemans Pomme Lambic (Fruit Lambic; cocoa unfold on the finish, adding depth and inter- 85 Brouwerij Lindemans, Belgium). This opens est to the otherwise tart, mouth-puckering palate. with wild aromas of funky yeast and barnyard that abv: 7.6% Price: $20 mingle with tart Granny Smith apple. The palate is sticky and sweet, with green-apple Jolly Rancher New Glarus Serendipity (Fruit Beer; New candy and apple juice flavors. A sweet apple flavor 92 Glarus Brewing Company, WI). After a dis- lingers on the finish. appointing cherry crop year, New Glarus looked to abv: 3.5% Price: $6/12 oz other more successful fruit crops as inspiration for a new selection. Made with apples, cranberries and cherries, wild fermented and aged in oak, Serendip- WHEAT BEERS ity is the “happy accident” of this fruity experiment. The bouquet is loaded with fruity aromas, like a Unibroue Blanche de Chambly (Witbier; Uni- cran-apple juice mixed with hints of yeast and oak. 92 broue, Canada). This pours a hazy golden- The palate is juicy and vibrant, with fresh, tart fruit yellow color, with a frothy white head that lingers flavors coupled with a vinous character and mouth- and leaves nice lacing behind with each sip. Citrusy watering acidity. Clean and long on the finish, with notes of lemon and orange rind immediately waft a subtle sweet oaky-spice accent on the back. from the glass, with additional hints of fresh wheat, abv: 4% Price: $9/750 ml yeasty spice and white pepper that carry through to the palate. The mouthfeel is medium-light and Samuel Smith’s Organic Raspberry Ale (Fruit approachable, with an attractive citrus-peel bitter- 89 Beer; Samuel Smith Old Brewery [Tad- ness that stays through the finish. caster], England). This attractive selection pours abv: 5% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack a bright red color with a soft pink head. Immedi - ate aromas of sweet and tart raspberry waft from Shock Top Belgian White (Witbier; Shock Top the glass and dominate the palate, with supporting 83 Brewing Co., MO). This AB-Inbev produced accents of pie crust, subtle hop and sweet malt to selection offers a light, friendly mouthfeel and mod- give the fruit structure and interest. Mediujm car- est aromas and flavors of orangey citrus, wheat, ce- bonation keeps any overly sweet sensations at bay, real grain and a hint of coriander. The carbonation ending clean and refreshing. lifts the flavors fairly quickly off the palate, result- abv: 5.1% Price: $6/550 ml ing in a short finish. It’s direct and easy-drinking, but approachable. Samuel Smith’s Organic Cherry Ale (Fruit abv: 5.2% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack 88 Beer; Samuel Smith Old Brewery [Tadcast- er], England). There’s a beautiful, clean, tart-cherry core to this beer, with secondary accents of clean pale malt, subtle earthy hop and yeast. Medium bodied, with rich flavors and a subtle sweetness from the malt. A juicy, tart cherry flavor lingers long on the finish. abv: 5.1% Price: $6/550 ml
Elysian Superfuzz Blood Orange Pale (Ameri- 87 can Pale Ale; Elysian Brewing, WA). Brewed with California blood orange as well as Northwest Citra and Amarillo hops, this is a citrusy brew from start to finish. Initial scents of sweet orange and cit- rusy hops lead, while the palate offers more of the same framed by a sweet malt core. There’s a hint of green-pepper spice that unfolds on the finish. This is an easy-drinking and sessionable brew, perfect for summer. abv: 5.4% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
Lindemans Cassis Lambic (Fruit Lambic; 87 Brouwerij Lindemans, Belgium). This pours an attractive dark purple color, with a full pink head that looks pretty and enticing. The aromas and fla- vors are dark and pure, with cassis leading the way
86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014