BUYINGGUIDE SEPTEMBER 2014 The Vigna Bosco Vineyard on the north face of Mount Etna, Sicily. MICHAEL HOUSEWRIGHT IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 SOUTHERN ITALY 48 GREECE 77 NEW YORK 19 SICILY 50 TURKEY 83 SPIRITS 24 BURGUNDY 51 ISRAEL 85 BEERS 37 RHÔNE 52 CALIFORNIA 41 SPAIN 66 WASHINGTON FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE that offers fragrances of jasmine, acacia, Spanish broom and flint. Creamy peach, citrus and honey- dew carry the palate, along with energizing mineral notes. It’s fresh and well-balanced, with crisp acid- ity. Palm Bay International. —K.O. SOUTHERN ITALY abv: 13% Price: $31 A quality winemaking region of diversity and value Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Greco di Tufo. White peach, Bartlett pear, grapefruit and owhere else in Italy have the profound easy-drinking wines like Irpinia Aglianico. 88 Granny Smith apple take center stage on this lin- improvements in viticulture and enology From Sicily, the latest Nero d’Avolas show ear, refreshing wine. Mineral and almond notes add had more impact than in Southern Italy. gorgeous fruit and supple textures that make depth while crisp acidity gives generates a clean, Fifteen years ago, this sun-kissed area them perfect for everyday drinking. Some pro- bright finish. Palm Bay International. —K.O. Nstill specialized in producing industrial quanti- ducers age Nero d’Avola in wood for more com- abv: 13% Price: $20 ties of jug wine. Less talked about were the con- plexity. Estates on the eastern side of the island Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Greco di Tufo. centrated musts used to inject muscle into the are turning out silky and delicious Cerasuolo di Here’s a savory and focused white that 88 more delicate wines of northern Italy. Vittoria (a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappa- has layers of juicy peach, mature pear, green ap- Today, producers in Cam- to) and refreshing Frappatos, ple, lemon- lime and mineral. The creamy palate is pania, Sicily and parts of Basil- which make the perfect sum- brightened by crisp acidity and it finishes on a note of roasted almond. Palm Bay International. —K.O. icata are turning out fantastic Whether simple mer red when chilled. And last abv: 13% Price: $21 wines that are full of personality. yet delicious or but by no means least, produc- Whether simple yet delicious or complex and age ers on the slopes of Mount Etna complex and age worthy, these are making some of the most el- FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO worthy, these Southern gems should be on ev- egant and fascinating wines in Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Serrocielo (Fa- ery wine lover’s radar. Southern gems all of Italy from Nerello Mas- langhina del Sannio). Here’s a bold and de- 90 Besides better vineyard man- should be on every calese and Nerello Cappuccio licious wine that’s loaded with succulent white fruit agement, updated cellar technol- wine lover’s radar. grapes grown in volcanic soils. sensations including mature Bartlett pear, tart green ogy and a focus on quality over Although Southern Italy apple and citrus. The round, juicy palate is bright- quantity, the turning point for steals the spotlight this month, ened by crisp acidity and energized with mineral notes that add depth. Palm Bay International. —K.O. southern reds came when producers de-em- we also take a look at the wines of Burgundy and abv: 13% Price: $31 phasized international grapes in favor of native the Rhône, as well as selections from Spain and varieties, namely Aglianico, Nero d’Avola, Frap- Greece. From the U.S., check out hundreds of Mustilli 2013 Sant’Agata dei Goti (Falanghi- na del Sannio). From the pioneering estate pato, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. reviews from California, New York and Wash- 90 In Campania and Basilicata, Aglianico is liv- ington. And, as always, be sure to check out our that first bottled Falanghina in 1979, this elegant wine opens with floral and fruit fragrances of white ing up to its reputation as the Nebbiolo (the complete database, with thousands more re- jasmine, tropical fruit and aromatic herbs. The de- grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco) of the views, at buyingguide.winemag.com. licious palate offers juicy white peach, pineapple, south, producing full-bodied, age-worthy Taur- Cheers! mango, nectarine and mineral alongside refreshing asi and Aglianico del Vulture as well as vibrant, —Kerin O’Keefe acidity. Casa de Case. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17 mine, honeysuckle and exotic fruit. The ripe, round Colli di Castelfranci 2012 Falango (Falanghi- palate delivers succulent yellow peach, ripe apricot, na del Sannio). Here’s a bright, linear wine WHITE WINES 89 Bartlett pear and juicy pineapple alongside fresh that opens with alluring floral aromas that recall FIANO DI AVELLINO acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O. Spanish Broom and acacia, with just a whiff of bees- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 wax. The juicy palate offers grapefruit, exotic fruit Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Pietracalda (Fi- and pineapple flavors that are accented by energiz- 92 ano di Avellino). For full review see page 6. ing mineral notes. Communal Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $31 GRECO DI TUFO abv: NA Price: $15 Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Fiano di Avellino. Villa Raiano 2012 Contrada Marotta (Greco Cantina del Taburno 2012 Cesco dell’Ermo White flower, stone fruit and candied citrus di Tufo). This gorgeous expression boasts an (Falanghina del Sannio). This late-harvested 90 92 88 aromas take center stage on this elegant but struc- intense bouquet of stone fruit, flint and Mediter- Falanghina opens with intense aromas of fragrant tured white. The round palate delivers creamy yel- ranean herbs. The juicy palate delivers concentrated white flowers punctuated by whiffs of mature stone low peach, juicy nectarine and mineral flavors that peach, citrus and pink grapefruit flavors, accented fruit. The concentrated palate delivers dried apri- are brightened by crisp acidity. Palm Bay Interna- by mineral and mint. It has structure, elegance and cot and candied citrus flavors, accented by aromatic tional. —K.O. incredible energy. Siena Imports. —K.O. herbs. It ends with a soft hazelnut nuance. de Grazia abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 Terredora Di Paolo 2013 Fiano di Avellino. Feudi di San Gregorio 2013 Cutizzi (Greco di This savory Fiano opens with aromas of jas- Tufo). Here’s a poised and structured wine 88 91 Continued on Page 13 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2014 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag- ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzer- Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Vigne de l’Enfant land; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Jésus Grèves Premier Cru (Beaune). This 94 Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in Cali- iconic wine is rich and perfumed. It’s powerful fornia; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. Astrales 2010 Ribera del Duero. This could and concentrated, with layers of wood contrasted If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- be the best Astrales to date. Alluring scents by explosive, ripe fruits. Ripe red-fruit flavors are 96 tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- of plum, blueberry and spice are backed by bal- brightened by ample acidity, resulting in a sumptu- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. sam dust and briary pipe-tobacco aromas. Deep ous wine that also has enough tannins to age. Drink Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and tannic on the palate, then packed with mocha, from 2018. Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. chocolate, toasted marshmallow, cassis and cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $100 Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the cough drop flavors, this is fixed and firm now, with submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot a staunch, intense, nervy finish. Drink from 2015– be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 2028. Grapes of Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un- less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom- ary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Doubleback 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Bouchard Père & Fils 2011 Le Corton (Cor- (Walla Walla Valley).