BUYING GUIDE APRIL 2013 An Israeli vineyard with the Dead Sea and Jordan in the background. 2 ISRAEL 41 NEW ZEALAND 13 OTHER ASIA 45 CALIFORNIA 13 GREECE 61 WASHINGTON 14 TUSCANY 68 NEW YORK RT HARDING RT E 27 BURGUNDY 71 SPIRITS OB R 38 PORTUGAL 73 BEER 40 OTHER EUROPE FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 41 MOROCCO BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM EITAN SIMANOR/ EITAN WineMag.com | 1 ISRAEL KOSHER WINES FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION ith the approach of the Jewish holiday Passover, the demand for ing the wine to a temperature of 160–165˚F for 15–30 seconds while the liq- kosher wine rises, as four glasses of wine per person are ritual- uid moves in a continuous flow—is far less damaging to the wine. W ly consumed during the holiday dinner, or seder. Many shoppers This month’s top Israeli wines are worth considering not just for the hol- seem reluctant to purchase kosher wines, as if they can’t compare to their idays, but for year-round enjoyment. The country’s wine producers have nonkosher counterparts. But although kosher wines once had poor reputa- made significent strides over recent years, and are now producing high qual- tions, recent advances have increased their variety and quality, prompting ity wines thanks to a deepened understanding of Israel’s terroirs and which consumers to rethink their opinions. grape varieties perform best in the Mediterranean climate. Generally speaking, kosher wine must be produced according to the Jew- Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews of recent re- ish dietary laws and under strict rabbinical supervision. Commercially avail- leases from Tuscany, Burgundy, New Zealand, Portugal and Greece, as well able wines must have the hechsher (seal of approval) of a rabbi, supervis- as a handful of Eastern European wines worth discovering. From the states, ing agency or organization (such as the “OU” sign of the Orthodox Union). we have hundreds of reviews from California, Washington and New York. A kosher wine labeled mevushal has undergone an additional heating pro- And as always, be sure to check out our comprehensive online database at cess, which makes it possible for non-Jews or nonobservant Jews to handle buyingguide.winemag.com—complete with a kosher wine search function— the finished product while still preserving the wine’s kosher certification. for even more wonderful reviews from around the world. In the past, mevushal practices truly did result in boiled wine—hardly L’Chaim! conducive to high quality. But flash-pasteurization—which involves expos- —LAUREN BUZZEO helps to lift the medium-length close. Kosher. Yarden Bright and flavorful with a fresh, mouthwatering finish. CHARDONNAY Wines, Inc. —L.B. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. Golan Heights Winery 2011 Yarden abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee). Bright apple, pear and orange notes lead the nose of Alexander 2011 Liza Chardonnay (Gali­ Recanati 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Shom­ this well-balanced Chardonnay, with secondary accents 86 lee). Underipe nectarine, lemon pith and a 85 ron). This is a vegetal Sauvignon Blanc, with of toast, sweet spice and nut. The vibrant mouthfeel touch of freshly dried grass start off the bouquet of forward aromas of green pepper, asparagus, green plum is full but not flabby, with an attractive peach-pit fla- this Chardonnay. The medium-weight palate transi- and a touch of talcum powder on the nose. Tart, lean, vor that carries through the long finish. Delicious now, tions into ripe flavors of melon and pear flesh that carry green fruit flavors fill the mouth, ending on a brisk yet but also should age well through 2017. Kosher. Yarden through to the slightly flabby finish. Kosher. Royal Wine clean finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.6% Price: $NA Golan Heights Winery 2010 Yarden Psagot 2011 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). SPARKLING WINE 88 Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee). 86 Toasty and oaky, with wood-grilled peach and Golan Heights Winery NV Gilgal Brut roasted apple-skin aromas unfolding on the nose. This is a ripe and rich Chardonnay, with exuberant fruit (Galilee). Fresh yet rich, this sparkler boasts Melon and pear flavors flesh out the medium-weight 88 notes of pineapple and peach laced with sweet orange great balance between the red-apple and orange fruit mouth, and linger alongside hints of sweet spice and acidity and soft toast flavors. The lush palate is full but notes and the toasty, sweet spice accents. Tart but full charred wood on the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- balanced, with a richness that carries through to the on the palate, the creamy moussse is countered by poration. —L.B. softly nutty finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. bright acidity, followed by a long finish reminiscent of abv: 12.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 wood-grilled apples. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $19 Recanati 2011 Chardonnay (Galilee). 88 Forward aromas and flavors of yellow apple, OTHER WHITE WINES peach flesh and orange rind lead this wine, with sec- Galil Mountain 2011 Yiron Vineyard Viog­ ROSÉS ondary highlights of oaky spice and toast that add depth nier (Upper Galilee). 88 Fresh, vibrant and at- Galil Mountain 2011 Dry Rosé (Galilee). to the palate. The mouthfeel is round and filling, with tractive, this Viognier boasts forward aromas of ripe Made from 75% Sangiovese, 13% Barbera, 10% fresh acidity and a medium-length finish. Kosher. Palm melon, lychee, honeysuckle florals and soft sweet spice. 86 Pinot Noir and 2% Syrah, this is a fresh and lively rosé Bay International. —L.B. Medium weight, but clean and balanced, with medium with bright notes of strawberry, raspberry and red cher- abv: 13% Price: $17 acidity and a hint of clementine, which lifts the rich fruit ry. A soft floral accent unfolds on the finish. Drink now. flavors. The floral accents shine through on the finish. Golan Heights Winery 2009 Gilgal Char­ Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15 87 donnay (Galilee). This wine starts off smell- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 ing overly ripe, with sweet orange, yellow apple flesh, Recanati 2011 Rosé (Galilee). Tart red- peach supreme and juicy melon aromas that flood the Golan Heights Winery 2011 Yarden Sau­ berry and savory herb aromas lead the nose bouquet. The mouth is full and round, but a nutty ac- vignon Blanc (Galilee). This wine is nicely 85 86 of this rosé made from 70% Barbera and 30% Merlot. cent adds depth to the palate while medium acidity balanced and easy to drink, with clean notes of green plum, gooseberry, white melon rind and lime peel. Continued on Page 11 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2013 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael World’s End 2009 Good Times, Bad Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits 96 Times Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Marchesi Antinori 2009 Guado al Tasso Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Structurally, this is Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, 98 (Bolgheri Superiore). This is a landmark near perfect, with sturdy yet supple tannins and bright California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing wine from a landmark vintage. The blend is Cabernet acids that perk up the flavors of blackberry jam, milk Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle. Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, chocolate, red currants and crème de cassis. This is clas- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s which results in a generous, striking and unforgettable sic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon; it’s great to drink now, initials appear following the note. When no initials appear product. The bouquet is elegant and toned, with aromas but it will also slowly evolve in the bottle over the next following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or of dark fruit, tobacco and chocolate. The mouthfeel is decade. —S.H. more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by tight and firm, and it boasts persistence and impressive abv: 14.8% Price: $100 Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. balance. It has all of the qualities required for long-term Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, aging, so keep this for 10 years or more. Ste. Michelle its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.