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buying guide april 2013 An Israeli with the Dead Sea and Jordan in the background.

2 41 new zealand 13 other asia 45 california 13 61 washington 14 68 new york rt Harding rt e 27 burgundy 71 spirits ob R 38 73

40 other europe for additional ratings and reviews, visit 41 morocco buyingguide.WineMag.com Eitan Simanor/ Eitan

WineMag.com | 1 israel kosher for your consideration

ith the approach of the Jewish holiday , the demand for ing the to a temperature of 160–165˚F for 15–30 seconds while the liq- rises, as four glasses of wine per person are ritual- uid moves in a continuous flow—is far less damaging to the wine. W ly consumed during the holiday dinner, or seder. Many shoppers This month’s top Israeli wines are worth considering not just for the hol- seem reluctant to purchase kosher wines, as if they can’t compare to their idays, but for year-round enjoyment. The country’s wine producers have nonkosher counterparts. But although kosher wines once had poor reputa- made significent strides over recent years, and are now producing high qual- tions, recent advances have increased their variety and quality, prompting ity wines thanks to a deepened understanding of Israel’s and which consumers to rethink their opinions. varieties perform best in the Mediterranean climate. Generally speaking, kosher wine must be produced according to the Jew- Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews of recent re- ish dietary laws and under strict rabbinical supervision. Commercially avail- leases from Tuscany, Burgundy, New Zealand, Portugal and Greece, as well able wines must have the hechsher (seal of approval) of a rabbi, supervis- as a handful of Eastern European wines worth discovering. From the states, ing agency or organization (such as the “OU” sign of the Orthodox Union). we have hundreds of reviews from California, Washington and New York. A kosher wine labeled mevushal has undergone an additional heating pro- And as always, be sure to check out our comprehensive online database at cess, which makes it possible for non-Jews or nonobservant Jews to handle buyingguide.winemag.com—complete with a kosher wine search function— the finished product while still preserving the wine’s kosher certification. for even more wonderful reviews from around the . In the past, mevushal practices truly did result in boiled wine—hardly L’Chaim! conducive to high quality. But flash-pasteurization—which involves expos- —Lauren Buzzeo

helps to lift the medium-length close. Kosher. Yarden Bright and flavorful with a fresh, mouthwatering finish. Wines, Inc. —L.B. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. Golan Heights 2011 Yarden abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee). Bright , pear and orange notes lead the nose of 2011 Liza Chardonnay (Gali­ Recanati 2011 (Shom­ this well-balanced Chardonnay, with secondary accents 86 lee). Underipe nectarine, lemon pith and a 85 ron). This is a vegetal Sauvignon Blanc, with of toast, sweet spice and nut. The vibrant mouthfeel touch of freshly dried grass start off the bouquet of forward aromas of green pepper, asparagus, green plum is full but not flabby, with an attractive peach-pit fla- this Chardonnay. The medium-weight palate transi- and a touch of talcum powder on the nose. Tart, lean, vor that carries through the long finish. Delicious now, tions into ripe flavors of melon and pear flesh that carry green fruit flavors fill the mouth, ending on a brisk yet but also should age well through 2017. Kosher. Yarden through to the slightly flabby finish. Kosher. Royal Wine clean finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.6% Price: $NA

Golan Heights Winery 2010 Yarden Psagot 2011 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). 88 Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee). 86 Toasty and oaky, with wood-grilled peach and Golan Heights Winery NV Gilgal Brut roasted apple-skin aromas unfolding on the nose. This is a ripe and rich Chardonnay, with exuberant fruit (Galilee). Fresh yet rich, this sparkler boasts Melon and pear flavors flesh out the medium-weight 88 notes of pineapple and peach laced with sweet orange great balance between the red-apple and orange fruit mouth, and linger alongside hints of sweet spice and acidity and soft toast flavors. The lush palate is full but notes and the toasty, sweet spice accents. Tart but full charred wood on the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- balanced, with a richness that carries through to the on the palate, the creamy moussse is countered by poration. —L.B. softly nutty finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. bright acidity, followed by a long finish reminiscent of abv: 12.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 wood-grilled . Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $19 Recanati 2011 Chardonnay (Galilee). 88 Forward aromas and flavors of yellow apple, other white wines peach flesh and orange rind lead this wine, with sec- Galil Mountain 2011 Yiron Vineyard Viog­ rosés ondary highlights of oaky spice and toast that add depth nier (Upper Galilee). 88 Fresh, vibrant and at- Galil Mountain 2011 Dry (Galilee). to the palate. The mouthfeel is round and filling, with tractive, this boasts forward aromas of ripe Made from 75% , 13% , 10% fresh acidity and a medium-length finish. Kosher. Palm melon, lychee, honeysuckle florals and soft sweet spice. 86 and 2% , this is a fresh and lively rosé Bay International. —L.B. Medium weight, but clean and balanced, with medium with bright notes of strawberry, raspberry and red cher- abv: 13% Price: $17 acidity and a hint of clementine, which lifts the rich fruit ry. A soft floral accent unfolds on the finish. Drink now. flavors. The floral accents shine through on the finish. Golan Heights Winery 2009 Gilgal Char­ Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15 87 donnay (Galilee). This wine starts off smell- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 ing overly ripe, with sweet orange, yellow apple flesh, Recanati 2011 Rosé (Galilee). Tart red- peach supreme and juicy melon aromas that flood the Golan Heights Winery 2011 Yarden Sau­ berry and savory herb aromas lead the nose bouquet. The mouth is full and round, but a nutty ac- vignon Blanc (Galilee). This wine is nicely 85 86 of this rosé made from 70% Barbera and 30% . cent adds depth to the palate while medium acidity balanced and easy to drink, with clean notes of green plum, gooseberry, white melon rind and lime peel. Continued on Page 11

2 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael World’s End 2009 Good Times, Bad Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits 96 Times Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Marchesi 2009 Guado al Tasso (Oakville). Structurally, this is Voss in , Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, 98 ( Superiore). This is a landmark near perfect, with sturdy yet supple tannins and bright California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing wine from a landmark . The blend is Cabernet acids that perk up the flavors of blackberry jam, milk Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle. Sauvignon, Merlot, and , chocolate, red currants and crème de cassis. This is clas- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s which results in a generous, striking and unforgettable sic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon; it’s great to drink now, initials appear following the note. When no initials appear product. The bouquet is elegant and toned, with aromas but it will also slowly evolve in the bottle over the next following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or of dark fruit, tobacco and chocolate. The mouthfeel is decade. —S.H. more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by tight and firm, and it boasts persistence and impressive abv: 14.8% Price: $100 Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. balance. It has all of the qualities required for long-term Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, aging, so keep this for 10 years or more. Ste. Michelle its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —.L. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. Tasting Methodology and Goals All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. About the Scores Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Brancaia 2009 Il Blu (Toscana). Sangio- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying vese, Merlot and some Cabernet Sauvignon are tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. 95 blended to create a bold and determined wine. Huge Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. aromas of espresso bean, black fruit, tobacco and dark Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Goldschmidt 2009 Game Ranch Single chocolate make for a meaty and dense bouquet. There’s Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 97 Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon enormous depth on the palate, where the wine feels Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; (Oakville). often good value. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in rich and softly velvety. It’s a Tuscan blend of the high- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 85% new , and it shows the essence of Oakville in est caliber, so hold it for 10 years or more. E & J Gallo. critical circumstances. its dry, tannic, ripe and complex identity. It would be Cellar Selection. —M.L. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 hard to exaggerate the excellence of the blackberries, abv: 14.5% Price: $85 points) are not reviewed. black currants, black cherries, dark chocolate and oak Special Designations flavors, which have a Christmas-pudding-like headiness. Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent A hint of raisin suggests it approaches overripeness, yet quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. it maintains superb control. The tannins and overall bal- Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible ance should help this age for many years, but it can also and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation be consumed now. —S.H. does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but abv: 14.9% Price: $85 that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea generally priced at $15 or less. 95 Slopes Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Here’s Submitting Products for Review more proof that sometimes a winery’s least expensive Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. bottling can be its best. The wine is first class, from the com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting translucent ruby color to the power and delicacy of the & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting mouthfeel. There’s something haunting and distinctly products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted Fort Ross-ian in the wild cherry, mushroom and pine for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Les flavors that seem to echo the fog, sun and redwood for- will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission 96 Grandes Lolières (Corton). Les Grandes ests of this remote region. Really delicious now and forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. Lolières is a vineyard in the large Corton Grand Cru. through 2018 or so. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Labels This Pinot Noir shows a delicate balance between fine abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given structure and beautiful red-fruit flavors. At the same the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and time, it has weight and richness that lend this wine pow- printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax er as well as the chance to age for many years. Loosen 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 13.5% Price: $104 buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 3 Drouhin 2010 Marquis de La­ 95 guiche Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne- Montrachet). The of the Marquis de La­ Geyser Peak 2007 Reserve Alexandre guiche date back to before the French Revolution, and 94 Meritage (Alexander Valley). A great wine Podere Sapaio 2009 Sapaio (Bolgheri Drouhin is fully responsible for producing the wines for drinking now, this is just beginning to show the evo- 94 Superiore). A concentrated blend of Caber- since the 1940s. This ripe, opulent selection lives up to lution of its primary blackberry, blueberry and currant net Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this its illustrious pedigree. It is full bodied, and it offers vi- fruits. Hints of , dark chocolate, dried herb, spices opens with dark spice and chocolate notes, followed by brant acidity and minerality. It’s a wine for aging over and cedar add interest. This is a blend of the classic Bor- luscious blackberry, prune and plum tones. Smooth and eight years and many more. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cel- deaux varieties, but the Cabernet Sauvignon compo- extracted, this offers velvety tannins and generous fruit lar Selection. —R.V. nent stands front and center with its firm tannins, depth flavors. It is packed with all kinds of opulent pleasure. abv: 13.5% Price: $114 and concentration. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Lyra Wine. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $80

Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos des Mouches Tudal 2010 Clift Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ Patland 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Cab­ 94 Premier Cru (Beaune). Round and soft ini- 94 vignon (Oak Knoll). This is fresh, tannic and 95 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft, dec- tially, this rich, intense Chardonnay then shows its firm full bodied, and it offers deep flavors of blackberries adent and approachable, this Cabernet Sauvignon is side. In addition to the ripe yellow-fruit flavors, there is and cassis. Worth cellaring, this should begin to resolve blended with a little . It offers flavors of black- a minerally, tight structure that promises that this wine by 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. berry jam, black currant, dark chocolate and cedar that will age. Keep it for at least five years. Dreyfus, Ashby abv: 14.3% Price: $42 continue on the long, spicy finish. This is lovely to drink & Co. —R.V. now and over the next five years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $120 abv: 14.8% Price: $90

Venge 2010 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvi­ Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos des Mouch­ 94 gnon (Napa Valley). Made from fruit grown 94 es Premier Cru (Beaune). This rich, power- in several notable Napa vineyards, this 100% Cabernet ful and juicy wine is just bursting out of its wood aging Sauvignon has impressive weight and depth. Its black Venge 2010 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet bounds. It has opulent red-berry flavors, a core of firm currant, dark chocolate, anise, pepper and toasted cedar 95 Sauvignon (Calistoga). Cabernet Sauvignon tannins and intense acidity. Ripe and fruity, this is full flavors sink deep into the mouth with sweet insistence. doesn’t get much more rich or ripe than this bottling. of aging potential. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selec- The tannins are considerable and will enable this wine Made from grown in Calistoga, this 100% vari- tion. —R.V. to age over the next 10 years. Pair this with rich etal wine offers blackberry jam and crème de cassis fla- abv: 13% Price: $109 and . —S.H. vors. Lots of new French oak influence adds sweet toast abv: 14.9% Price: $55 and caramel notes. Dramatically complex and power- ful, this tannic selection will benefit from being cellared for a minimum of eight years, and it should continue to develop well beyond that time frame. Cellar Selec- tion. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $85

4 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Corley 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vine­ Venge 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Block 93 gnon (Napa Valley). This 100% Cabernet 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This vin- 94 I-4 Syrah (Napa Valley). With this wine, Sauvignon has rich, flashy flavors of spice and crème de tage rivals MacRostie’s 2006 and 2007 bottlings. It’s Venge has taken a giant leap into the front ranks of cassis, and it will reward some time in the cellar. The already delicious thanks to the raspberry, cherry and California Syrah producers. It’s made from fruit that’s tannins are strong, but the wine is drinkable now after persimmon flavors that gain complexity from baking sourced from the great Stagecoach Vineyard, which decanting and especially when paired with steak. It will spice and sweet, toasty oak notes. The brisk acidity is straddles Atlas Peak—a cool mountain region. The acid- soften and mellow in 7–8 years, and it should last at just about perfect, and the finish is long and rich. —S.H. ity is preserved, and the concentrated fruit easily handles least 15 years while gradually losing fruit. Cellar Se- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 the 60% new French oak. Dramatic and high in alcohol, lection. —S.H. this selection is gorgeous to drink now, and it will re- abv: 14.2% Price: $80 main fresh over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $54

Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Perrières 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). A rich, red-fruited wine, this is packed with acidity and dry tannins, and Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Vineyard Se­ it promises to age. Keep this complex selection for five 94 lect Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Ferrari-Carano 2009 Trésor years or more. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. Valley). This is only the sixth vintage that the Vineyard 93 (Sonoma County). This vintage of Trésor —R.V. Select has been produced. Spicy and tightly built, this is the winery’s best in years. A Bordeaux-style blend abv: 13.5% Price: $56 dense effort is made from Cabernet Sauvignon that was that’s based on Cabernet Sauvignon, this is softly tan- sourced from three Walla Walla vineyards. Notes of fig, nic and rich, and it offers layers of cherry pie, mocha cassis, chocolate, coffee and fresh earth are enlivened and smoky cedar. Best to enjoy now for its sheer drink- by a hint of citrus rind. All in all, it’s a complex, well-ap- ability. —S.H. pointed showcase of fabulous flavors. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $52 —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $48

Smith-Madrone 2007 Estate Bottled Cab­ 93 ernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). One of the last 2007s to be released, and it’s still nowhere Fort Ross 2009 Fort Ross Vineyard Re­ near ready to drink. It’s astringent and bone dry, but it’s Arista 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot 93 serve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Classic also elegant. Complex flavors of blackberries, black cur- 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). Nuanced, expres- Fort Ross Pinot Noir, this is rich and textural. The fla- rants, green , anise and cedar abound. It demon- sive and floral, this demonstrates balance between the vors of raspberry parfait and cherry pie are spicy, hon- strates the balance of the 2007 vintage and the ageability tannins and mushroom-kissed Bing-cherry flavor. The eyed and brightened by acidity. Drink now, but it will of Spring Mountain wines. Cellar this for 8–10 years, palate feels soft, silky and round, and the layer of dark slowly evolve in the bottle over the next eight years. and it won’t be surprising if this still shows well at the chocolate is the perfect finishing touch. Age it for 5–7 —S.H. age of 20. Cellar Selection. —S.H. years, but it is also enjoyable now. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.4% Price: $58

WineMag.com | 5 Arista 2010 Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir Solomon Hills 2010 Chardonnay (San­ 91 (Mendocino Ridge). Thick and foresty, this Solomon Hills 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma­ 92 ta Maria Valley). Racy, clean and seemingly Pinot Noir embodies the extremes of the Perli Vine- 93 ria Valley). As this wine constantly changes in bone dry, this wine is elegant and almost shy in its ap- yard. It bursts with dark blue and earthy red fruits that the glass, it is one to linger over to enjoy all of its subtle- proach. Food friendly and Chablis-like, it has plenty of are tempered by a savory undertone. This wine takes ties. It offers rich, complex cherry and currant flavors, citrus, cream, mineral and toast subtleties. The fruit time to reveal itself, so age it for 5–7 years, and pair and the oak influence brings mocha and toast notes. The was sourced from a vineyard located in the westernmost it with stews, risottos or seasoned braised lamb. —V.B. tannins and acids shape the balanced mouthfeel. It can part of the valley, and hence one of the coolest. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $52 be consumed now, but it should develop additional nu- now–2018. —S.H. ances over the next eight years. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $43 abv: 14.5% Price: $57

Watermill 2011 Viognier (Columbia Val­ Bien Nacido 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma­ 92 ley). From the beguiling aromatics to the thrill- Caves Velhas 2009 Alma Grande Reser­ 92 ria Valley). As this is currently quite heavy in ing palate that’s saturated with flavors of citrus flesh and 91 va (Douro). Full and ripe, blackberry and blueberry jam, cola, orange zest and rind, tangerine and green apple, this Viognier offers su- this wine’s dark plum fruit is lined with toast from the oaky flavors, it needs more time to knit together. The in- perb focus. The length and detail are noteworthy, but nine months it spent in new wood. It has a smooth, pol- tegrity of the acid-tannin structure should help the wine the taste is simply delicious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ished texture, and the finish bears sweet tannins and a develop for at least the next six years. If you choose to abv: 14.5% Price: $16 touch of eucalyptus. Age this for 2–3 years. Prestige open it before then, decant it for a couple of hours. Cel- Wine Group. —R.V. lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.1% Price: $57 Yatir 2009 Forest (Judean 92 Hills). Forest, Yatir’s top-of- the-line offering, is always a dense and powerful wine that can age. Right now, the wine smells young and a bit closed, hiding some of its beauty and nuance behind the upfront black plum, cassis and cherry fruit aromas. Hints of fruit- cake spice, bramble, cigar box and leather occasionally flicker in the back- ground, revealing what time has in store for this dark beauty of a wine. Big Dierberg 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir Brancaia 2009 Riserva ( Clas­ and rich right now, with a full structure 91 (Sta. Rita Hills). Give this Pinot Noir a few 92 sico). Brancaia definitely makes the short list and gripping tannins. Drink 2016– hours in the before drinking it. Right out of of Tuscany’s most admired wine estates. This riserva is 2022. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- the bottle, it’s tight and brittle, but air brings out the tightly packed with delicate aromas ranging from ber- tion. Cellar Selection. —L.B. core notes of cherry, vanilla, red currant and cedar, and ry fruit to cigar box to blue flower. The whole ensem- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 makes it develop a drink-me-now appeal. —S.H. ble shows beautiful restraint and balance. E & J Gallo. abv: 14.5% Price: $44 —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

6 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 L. Tramier & Fils 2010 Collection Premier Wallis Family Estate 2010 Little Sister 91 Cru (Pommard). Firm and powerful, this tan- 91 Proprietary Red Wine (Diamond Moun­ nic wine has dense black-fruit flavors, with enough fruit- tain). Forward and delicious, this offers waves of black- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Ethos Re­ iness to balance the structure. The finish shows a smoky berries, cherries, currants, anise and cedar that are 90 serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia character, a bitter cherry flavor and bright acidity. Luxe wrapped in firm yet supple tannins. Drink now–2016. Valley). The 2009 vintage seems to have pushed the . —R.V. —S.H. alcohol up a notch in many of the Ste. Michelle reds abv: 13% Price: $63 abv: 13.7% Price: $45 yielding dense, fruit-driven wines that are on the verge of being jammy. This hefty bottling delivers tons of flavor: The cassis note comes saturated with barrel- derived accents of coffee and smoke. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $38

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Canoe Ridge Marchesi Antinori 2010 Guado al Tasso 90 Estate Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Made 91 Il Bruciato (Bolgheri). A blend of Cabernet in fairly modest quantities, this Merlot bears dark fruit Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this shows savory spice, that shows a pleasing, dusty quality. The blend includes Donati 2010 Ezio Cabernet Sauvignon smoked and tobacco notes, followed by black­ 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, which keeps it in the Bor- 90 (Paicines). A classy Cabernet, this wine shows berry, dark cherry and cola. The palate is fresh and deaux-style camp. Firm and concentrated, it finishes the potential of this emerging San Benito County appel- clean, but it has enough heft to be paired with grilled with a tasty mix of cocoa, coffee grounds and Asian spices. lation. It’s dry and smooth, with firm but supple tannins meat. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. that provide grip to the blackberry, cherry and black abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 currant flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

Piccini 2008 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). Geyser Peak 2009 Block Collection Walk­ 91 This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon 90 ing Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander and Merlot shows impressive intensity and careful- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Artist Series Valley). This shows classic Cabernet Sauvignon char- ly measured oak tones that add nuances of clove and 90 Meritage Red Wine (Columbia Valley). acter, and there’s even a Bordeaux-like earthiness that nutmeg. At the base are notes of red fruit, cherry and Five of the Bordeaux grapes were used in this wine, and grounds the cherry, currant and cedar flavors. Made blackberry, plus dried tones of prune and cassis. Aveniù two-thirds of the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of from fruit grown in the winery’s Alexander Valley vine- Brands, Inc. —M.L. the grapes came from the excellent Canoe Ridge Estate yard, this is ideal for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $25 Vineyard, and the rest were sourced from Cold Creek abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Vineyard. Dark, saturated flavors of black cherry and cassis are balanced against ripe, firm tannins. It’s full bodied and flavorful, and it displays plenty of power. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $55

WineMag.com | 7 Mazzei 2010 Belguardo Serrata (Marem­ Smith-Madrone 2010 Estate Bottled Grgi´c Vina 2008 (Dingaˇc). 90 ma Toscana). Hats off to the Mazzei brothers 90 Chardonnay (Spring Mountain). This 90 This is one unabashedly bold, brawny wine for crafting this rich, pleasurable wine that mirrors the Chardonnay has plenty of ripe pineapple, pear and that’s full of rich red fruit and milk chocolate. Bright sunny warmth and softness of the region. The unusu- tropical fruit flavors. Having aged in 100% new French herbal and floral tones add an unusual freshness to al blend is Sangiovese and Alicante, and it’s redolent of oak barrels, it offers rich notes of vanilla and buttered this Croatian Plavac Mali. Intense, penetrating tannins lively red cherries, tobacco and chocolate fudge. Palm toast. Like all of Smith-Madrone’s wines, this has great frame the long, mocha-flavored finish. Grgich Hills Es- Bay International. —M.L. acidity and minerality, and even some tannins. Give this tate. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 some time, and see how it is after 2017. Cellar Selec- abv: 15.4% Price: $38 tion. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

Poggio Verrano 2009 Poggio Verrano 3 Jules Taylor 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ 90 (Toscana). A cheerful blend of Alicante, Cab- 90 ough). A blend of fruit drawn from the Awa- ernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal measures, this is Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Pinot tere and Brancott subregions, this is a lively, fresh ex- partially aged in oak to give the wine a zesty touch of 90 Noir (Marlborough). Villa Maria’s upper-lev- ample of Marlborough Pinot Noir. Judiciously applied spice behind the notes of cherry, blackberry and plum. el Pinot Noirs have always been big and bold, but with notes of vanilla and accent flavors of cherry The palate is soft, with mild structure, and it finishes this release the wines seem to have taken a turn toward and herb that finish long, while the medium- to full- chewy and fruity. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. more finesse and elegance. The 2010 Cellar Selection bodied wine’s tannins are ripe and impart a creamy tex- —M.L. features a plushly textured palate, refined aromas and ture. Drink now and over the next couple of years. Mar- abv: 14% Price: $20 flavors of cherries, earth and cedar, and a long, softly itime Wine Trading Collective. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. dusty finish. Drink now–2018. Ste. Michelle Wine Es- abv: 14% Price: $20 tates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Recanati 2010 Reserve Wild 90 (Judean Hills). With only 2,940 bottles pro- duced, this is a limited-edition wine that’s worth the MacRostie 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma hunt. Vanilla and oaky spice aromas immediately waft 90 Coast). This is clean and brisk in lemony acid- from the glass, with the core of dark berries and fleshy Yatir 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ju­ ity, and it offers concentrated, complex flavors of hon- plum fruit following shortly after. Heavy and bold on 90 dean Hills). This Cabernet-based wine—with eyed pineapples, limes, oranges and mangoes. It’s dry the palate, the firm structure complements the concen- splashes of Malbec and Cabernet Franc—comes off and finessed. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. trated blackberry and cherry flavors. Nuances of cocoa assertively oaky at first, but as the earthy, black fruit aro- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 powder and tea leaves linger on the close. Kosher. Palm mas unfold, it works its way into a better balance. Medium Bay International. —L.B. weight with moderate tannins, the lush mouthfeel is abv: 13.5% Price: $56 complemented by flavors of ripe berry-pie filling but then countered by hints of green pepper and ash on the close. Drink 2014–2018. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $50

8 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 spirits

Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Pinot Noir 89 (Marlborough). Well priced for the quality, Villa Maria’s entry-level Pinot Noir delivers moderately Boneshaker 2010 (). A new Edinburgh Gin (Scotland; Frederick Wild­ assertive notes of dried leaves, black cherries, cola and 87 wine from Hahn Family, Boneshaker is appro- 90 man & Sons, New York, NY). One of the oaky spices. It’s concentrated and gently mouth-filling, priately named: It’s a big-boned, hearty swath of velvety rising number of Scottish-made gins, this small-batch with a silky finish. Drink it now and over the next two milk chocolate and jammy fruit flavors. With just the spirit has a good dose of piny juniper aroma and fla- years. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. right amount of Zinfandel spice and oak influence, it vor, balanced by citrus peel and surprising flower notes, —J.C. will please a barbecue-loving crowd. —V.B. plus and accents on the finish. A good abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $25 choice for martinis, with a lemon twist, please. abv: 43% Price: $35

spirits Downslope Distilling Ould Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin (USA; 35 Maple 94 Tom Citrus Flavored Gin 90 Street, Sonoma, CA). Sweet-tasting and cit- Fess Parker 2011 (Santa Barba­ (USA; Downslope Distilling, Cen­ rusy, this has a light herbal aroma. It shows distinct cu- 88 ra County). While this wine is clean and vi- tennial, CO). Cocktail history buffs will cumber and lavender notes on the palate, and it should brant, it tastes off dry. With its honeyed finish and fla- want to get their hands on this bottle, stat. lend itself to spring and summer cocktails. Keep an eye vors of peach, nectarine and apricot jam, this is one of Made in the lightly sweetened Old Tom out for exciting savory and spicy variations of Uncle Val’s the most pleasant California on the market. style, this golden gin lends itself to classic that may be coming to market soon. It’s easy to drink with ham, sausage and slightly sweet Martinez or Tom Collins cocktails. Barrel abv: 45% Price: $40 Asian fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. aged for three months, this soft, buttery abv: 12% Price: $14 gin features and pear flavors, sprin- kled with brown sugar, cinnamon bark beer and honey notes. It’s even mellow enough to sip neat. abv: 40% Price: $35

No. 3 London Dry Gin (Hol­ Urlar 2010 Pinot Noir (Wairarapa). There 92 land; Anchor Distilling Com­ 88 aren’t many biodynamically grown Pinot Noirs pany, San Francisco, CA). Fresh and New Glarus Moon Man No Coast Pale Ale available for such a modest tariff, so this effort, made aromatic, this traditional London dry style 92 (American Pale Ale; New Glarus Brewing by the former assistant winemaker at Escarpment, is gin offers juniper, coriander, grapefruit Company, WI). This is American pale ale done right, notable. It features taut, crisp black-cherry fruit along peel and anise notes. It’s versatile and well with a balanced profile of malty richness and hoppy with bits of leather and earth. Drink now and over the suited for making gin and tonics. It comes astringency. Although New Glarus uses a blend of five next few years, but expect future vintages to show more in a distinctive squared-off bottle with a different hops, it is by no means over the top or overly complexity and longevity as the young vines mature. At- metal key that’s embedded in the dark bitter, with bright hop-driven aromas of grapefruit and las Imports. —J.C. green glass. fresh-cut grass followed by flavors of orange oil and abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 46% Price: $40 herbs on the palate. Medium bodied yet dry, with a slightly nutty character lingering on the finish. The play- ful “No Coast” name suggests this is a selection to be enjoyed by west-coasters, east-coasters and everyone in- between. Best Buy. abv: 5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

WineMag.com | 9 best buys best buys best buys

Geyser Peak 2012 Pinot Grigio (Califor­ Geyser Peak 2011 Chardonnay (So­ 89 nia). Dry, crisp and clean, this has rich flavors 87 noma County). This tastes like buttered toast, Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Forma of citrus, honeydew, green apple and vanilla, brightened topped with orange marmalade and vanilla. The crisp 92 de Arte Reserva (Tejo). Touriga Nacional with keen acidity. This should be relatively easy to find. acidity makes it feel bright and clean. Best Buy. —S.H. and Cabernet Sauvignon merge seamlessly in this richly Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 structured but fruity wine. It is densely concentrated, abv: 13% Price: $10 with a line of tannins cutting through the blackberry fruit flavors. Firm, textured and likely to age well, this is impressive. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

Avalon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali­ Geyser Peak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 86 fornia). This has rich flavors of black cur- 89 (Alexander Valley). Dry and smoothly tan- rants, licorice and sandalwood, and it finishes dry and nic, this wine is packed with complex blackberry-pie, spicy. This should be relatively easy to find thanks to its currant, anise, herb and cedar flavors. This is nearly as 50,000-case production. Best Buy. —S.H. good as the winery’s more costly Walking Tree Vineyard abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Block Collection Cabernet, but it’s just a little less con- centrated. Best Buy. —S.H. Caves Velhas 2009 Cabeça de Toiro abv: 13.5% Price: $13 90 Reserva Touriga Nacional-Castelão (Tejo). This dark-colored blend of Touriga Nacional and Castelão shows intense fruitiness and concentrat- ed structure. A full-bodied and black-fruit-driven wine, this will age over the next few years, and the tannins will round out to add more richness. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Four Vines 2011 Naked Unoaked Char­ 86 donnay (Santa Barbara County). This Chardonnay is rich and balanced, with brisk acidity and deep, long flavors of limes, tangerines and Meyer lem- Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Estate ons. Best Buy. —S.H. 89 Bottled Vinho Tinto (Tejo). This is an ele- abv: 13.9% Price: $10 gant wine, with balanced fruit and tannins that make for a soft texture. It is rich and laced with fresh, rasp- berry-like acidity. It can age for another year, but it is also ready to drink. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. Geyser Peak 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cal­ —R.V. 90 ifornia). This tastes bone dry, and it offers acid- abv: 13% Price: $10 ity that’s so clean and racy, it makes your mouth feel like it’s shining. The flavors of limes, lemons, hay, white pep- per and vanilla are delightful. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

10 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 The palate offers light tannins and red-fruit-skin flavors, Galil Mountain 2009 Yiron (Galilee). Spicy ending clean and crisp. Kosher. Palm Bay International. 88 aromas of licorice, menthol, vanilla sauce and best buys —L.B. sweet wood frame the brambly-berry fruit center of abv: 12% Price: $15 this Cabernet-Merlot blend. Berry-preserve flavors are more pronounced on the palate, with its lush, round mouthfeel, and assorted spice flavors on the finish. other red wines Drink now–2015. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. Recanati 2010 Reserve Wild Carignan abv: 15.5% Price: $26 (Judean Hills). For full review see page 8. 90 Shiloh Winery 2009 Mor (Judean Hills). abv: 13.5% Price: $56 88 There’s a forward hickory-maple smoke note to Golan Heights Winery 2008 Yarden Pinot this interesting blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% 86 Noir (Galilee). The aromatics are light and Merlot and 20% Barbera. Dark berries, vanilla bean and dainty, with soft notes of raspberry, red cherry, forest toasted oak notes unfold on the nose and in the mouth, floor and cocoa powder. Similar flavors develop on the with a touch of cigar tobacco spice that carries through bright palate, ending on a fleeting finish. Kosher. Yarden on the finish. Drink through 2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Purple Cowboy 2010 Trail Boss Cabernet Corporation. —L.B. Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This has sweet- Wines, Inc. —L.B. 86 14% $29 abv: 13.9% Price: $32 tasting flavors of blueberry jam, milk chocolate and abv: Price: raspberry-cinnamon granola, wrapped into smooth, soft Segal’s 2009 Dovev Single Vineyard Ar­ Alexander 2010 Sandro Cabernet-Merlot tannins. Best Buy. —S.H. gaman (Galil). This bold red made from Ar- 87 (Galilee). This blend of 50% Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 86 gaman—a cross between Souzão and Carignan—offers vignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Syrah, 7% Petit Verdot, 9% upfront notes of boysenberry and black plum, accented Mourvèdre and 4% Sauvignon Blanc is straightforward by hints of bark and spiced chocolate. It’s inky and dark, yet lush, with assertive oak-infused notes of plum, black but with a good acidic cut that keeps the finish fresh and raspberry and boysenberry. Spicy accents of vanilla bean the wine approachable now. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- and sweet smoke lend a rich impression to the close. poration. —L.B. Very drinkable now, with modest tannins and a plush abv: 13.5% Price: $38 texture. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Galil Mountain 2010 Yiron Vineyard Pinot 84 Noir (Upper Galilee). Light and accessible now, this single-vineyard Pinot offers delicate notes of cabernet sauvignon red currant and strawberry hull on the nose and in the Alexander 2007 The Great Cabernet Sau­ Twisted 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor­ mouth. Soft, with low tannins and an easygoing struc- vignon (Galilee). This tight and concentrated nia). The strong aroma and flavor of black pepper 91 86 ture. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B. Cab shows power and intensity, with a lush, mouthfilling suggests that this Zinfandel will pair well with peppered abv: 14.5% Price: $19 texture and firm tannins. It’s brimming with black fruit steak. It has firm tannins that will chew through fat, and notes of plum, berry and cassis, laced with accents of the note of blackberry jam will meld nicely with the leather, cigar box, pepper and sweet spice. The finish is sweet flavor of charred beef. Best Buy. —S.H. red blends abv: 13.5% Price: $8 long and complex; drink now–2018. Kosher. Royal Wine Carmel 2007 Limited Edition (Upper Gali­ Corporation. —L.B. 92 lee). This Bordeaux-style blend is made from abv: 14% Price: $75 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 5% Mer- lot, 5% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc, and promises Shiloh Winery 2010 Secret Reserve Cab­ great longevity despite its already somewhat advanced 90 ernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Fleshy age. It’s dense and thick, with concentrated notes of cas- black plum and berry aromas open the bouquet of this sis, blackberry, tanned leather, licorice root and peppery vibrant wine, and follow straight through to the juicy spice. The medium tannins are fine, but with good grip palate. Hints of tobacco and sweet yet peppery spice on the palate, leading into a long finish laced with hints add nuance to the medium-weight mouth, while the of heady herbs and black tea. Drink 2015–2020. Kosher. structured tannins keep the ripe fruit flavors ground- Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. ed. Drink now–2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. abv: 13.5% Price: $85 —L.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 Yatir 2009 Forest (Judean Hills). For full Bota Box 2011 Merlot (California). This Yatir 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean fresh, spicy Merlot is easy to drink, and it deals 92 review see page 6. 84 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 90 Hills). For full review see page 8. jammy berry, cola and fruit punch flavors. It’s a great abv: 14% Price: $50 wine to serve at parties. Best Buy. —S.H. Binyamina 2009 The Chosen Diamond abv: 13% Price: $21/3 L 88 (Galilee). Scents of mixed forest berries, red Alexander 2009 The Great Cabernet Sau­ plum, fresh and bay laurel lead the bouquet 89 vignon (Galilee). The herbal aromas are for- of this wine, and carry though to the juicy palate. Ap- ward on the nose of this Cabernet-based wine, which proachable and enjoyable now, with ripe fruit flavors includes 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Mourvèdre and 3% Mer- and a hint of chocolate that stays through the medium- lot. Gamy, rich red plum and cherry notes unfold shortly length finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, after, while the hefty palate offers earthy flavors of cassis 10% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot. Mevushal. Kosher. and tobacco leaf. Sweet smoke and toast accents linger Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. on the long finish. The wine is young and powerful now; abv: 14% Price: $60 try after 2015. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $75

WineMag.com | 11 Barkan 2009 Altitude +624 Cabernet Recanati 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Gal­ on a black tea note that lingers. Drink now–2017. Ko- 89 Sauvignon (Israel). A decadent thread of 85 ilee). Earthy aromas of black-currant leaf and sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. mocha weaves through the red cherry and raspberry crushed carnation dominate the profile of this wine, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 backbone of this wine. Earth, tobacco and black-currant with light black-fruit notes taking second place. Lean leaf add depth of flavor to the palate, followed by a long, and delicate, this wine is ready for drinking now; pair Carmel 2009 Kayoumi Single Vineyard evolving finish that unfolds layer upon layer of nuance it with wine-braised . Kosher. Palm Bay Interna- 91 Shiraz (Galilee). This dark and attractive Shi- and spice. Balanced and quite approachable now; enjoy tional. —L.B. raz shows excellent balance and a satiny texture. Notes through 2015. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $17 of brambly raspberry and cherry mingle with seductive abv: 14% Price: $42 hints of sweet smoke, game and pepper. Hints of spicy Segal’s 2009 Dishon Single Vineyard mocha and forest berry linger on the finish. Approach- Barkan 2009 Altitude +720 Cabernet 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galil). There’s a able now, but should hold well and develop additional 89 Sauvignon (Galil). The +720 offers a bit woody, slightly green center to this wine that domi- complexities through 2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- more concentrated black cherry, plum and blueberry nates the lean cherry and currant notes on the nose and ration. —L.B. notes than the +624, with a gorgeous backdrop of to- mouth. It’s direct and linear on the palate, with a red- abv: 15% Price: $33 bacco, licorice root and tree bark. The mouthfeel is plum-skin-driven finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- fleshy and ripe, but with medium tannins that keep it tion. —L.B. Golan Heights Winery 2009 Yarden Syrah from feeling overly round. Hints of chicory and roast- abv: 14% Price: $38 90 (Galilee). With 18 months spent in oak, the ed espresso bean develop on the finish. Kosher. Royal wood influence is certainly apparent, but it’s balanced Wine Corporation. —L.B. by the deep black plum and cherry notes. The mouth- abv: 14% Price: $42 merlot feel is lush but lifted, with dense black-fruit flavors on the palate that persist through the close. Vanilla and Carmel 2009 Sha’al Single Vineyard Mer­ Flam 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon sweet smoke flavors lend a decadent feel to the finish. lot (Galilee). This wine opens with ripe aro- (Galilee). This wine starts off with an asser- 89 Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. 89 mas of black plum and boysenberry fruit, accented by tive aroma of brambly berry, followed shortly after by abv: 15% Price: $25 hints of licorice root and menthol. The fruity core con- touches of warm compote and sweet spice. The tannins tinues to shine on the smooth, round palate, alongside are structured but fine, lending support to the other- Recanati 2010 Reserve Syrah-Viognier accents of purple violet, black tea and oak-driven spice wise round palate brimming with fleshy dark-cherry (Galilee). Although this wine is currently a bit that linger through the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- 90 and black-plum flavors. 100 cases imported; enjoy now– firm and closed, it has the stuffing for great evolution poration. —L.B. and shows promise for a long future. Dark, ripe raspber- 2017. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 ry and strawberry fruit characters are laced with touch- es of Asian spice, reduced balsamic and wild game. The Flam 2010 Reserve Merlot (Galilee). Solid Binyamina 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau­ medium-weight mouthfeel boasts chewy tannins that herbal notes of fresh thyme and bay leaf lead vignon (Galilee). Cherry, red plum and soft 88 persist long into the finish. Drink 2014–2018. Kosher. 88 the nose of this Merlot, but are supported by a core of herbs lead the nose of this Cabernet, followed by glim- Palm Bay International. —L.B. ripe dark fruit. Accents of vanilla bean and licorice root mers of chocolate and light coffee. The palate is plush abv: 13.5% Price: $50 add depth to the medium-full mouthfeel. The texture and mouthfilling, but not flabby or overdone, with ripe is round, yet structured with fine tannins, while the fin- fruit flavors that linger on the clean finish. Mevushal. Flam 2010 Reserve Syrah (Galilee). This ish boasts a decadent mocha touch. Kosher. Royal Wine Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. fruit-forward Syrah is brimming with aromas Corporation. —L.B. 89 abv: 14% Price: $23 and flavors of raspberry, boysenberry and blueberry, abv: 15% Price: $65 all graced with a hint of vanilla cream. The mouthfeel Carmel 2009 Kayoumi Single Vineyard boasts a satiny texture, with fine tannins, and the flavors Tulip Winery 2011 Just Merlot (Judean Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). The bou- evolve from fleshy fruit to spice and toasty oak. Drink 88 Hills). This is an approachable and easy-pleas- quet starts off with moderately intense scents of plum, 87 now–2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. ing Merlot, with notes of black plum, boysenberry, milk cherry and blackberry, with a cured-meat accent in the abv: 14.5% Price: $50 chocolate and oak-driven spice. The mouthfeel is round background. Glimmers of black pepper and bark add and creamy, but the finish is clean and loaded with depth to the palate, while the medium-full mouthfeel Recanati 2011 Shiraz (Galilee). Bright, fleshy fruit flavors that linger nicely. Drink now–2015. boasts moderate tannins followed by a clean finish. Ko- jammy cherry, raspberry and blueberry aromas Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. 87 lead the nose of this wine. Smooth and easy-drinking, sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 15% Price: $33 the palate offers rich berry compote flavors with hints of black pepper and sweet spice. Drink now. Mevushal. Recanati 2011 Merlot (Galilee). Bright and Tulip Winery 2011 Just Cabernet Sauvi­ Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. juicy, this wine offers upfront fruit aromas and gnon (Galilee). Brambly blackberry, plum 86 abv: 14% Price: $17 88 flavors of blueberry, black cherry and plum. Hints of and cherry flesh aromas lead the bouquet of this con- fudgy brownie and berry preserve add depth and dec- centrated wine, and follow straight through to the pal- Binyamina 2010 Reserve Shiraz (Gali­ adence to the palate, and stay well into the medium- ate. Creamy and lush, a hint of mocha adds richness to lee). Soft aromas of dark berries and plum length finish. Drink now. Kosher. Palm Bay Interna- 85 the otherwise fruit-driven finish. Kosher. Royal Wine flesh lead off, while the palate offers a tight, skin-driven tional. —L.B. cherry flavor. A slight astringency carries through on the Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $30 close, along with a hint of cinnamon. Drink now. Ko- sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. Alexander 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ syrah/shiraz abv: 14% Price: $24 86 gnon (Galilee). This wine boasts aromas and flavors of dried red fruits, fresh mint and cocoa powder. Binyamina 2009 The Chosen Ruby Syrah Medium weight, with soft, dusty tannins and a medi- 91 (Galilee). With only 6,000 bottles produced, this limited-production selection might be tricky to find, um-length finish. A young wine, but quite approachable Binyamina 2010 Late Cluster Se­ but it’s well worth the effort. Layered and nuanced, ripe now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. lect Reserve Gewürztraminer (Galilee). fruit provides a perfect backdrop for accents of game, 89 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA This late-harvest dessert wine is sweet and unctuous, spice and oak. The silky texture is complemented by with ripe aromas and flavors of peaches and nectarines black cherry and plum-skin flavors, and the finish ends

12 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 drizzled with honey and dusted with sweet baking spice. ering tannins and a richly textural mouthfeel. Terrell Estate Biblia Chora 2011 White (Pan­ The mouthfeel is thick and full, but lifted with enough Wines.Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 89 geon). This white has a curvy character, with acidity to keep it from feeling cloying on the close. Ko- abv: 13% Price: $25 heady fruit and citrus aromas and an interplay of rich sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. exotic fruit flavors and bright acidity. Balanced and orig- abv: 9% Price: $27/375 ml Antadze 2010 Kvevri Wine inal, this exhibits the fruit and mineral combination that 90 (). High-toned aromas of dried peach, Greek whites do so well. Spiliadis. —S.K. apple, spice and sandalwood in this qvevri-aged wine abv: 13% Price: $23 lebanon give way to a rich, almost silky palate that bursts with notes of yellow flowers and honey-tinged oolong tea. Pavlidis 2011 Thema (Drama). An alluring white wines Bright, citrusy acids and bracing, tea-like tannins extend 89 nose of citrus, pineapple and peach notes leads on the long finish. Terrell Wines. —A.I. this elegant white. Fresh, flavorful and exotic, the wine Château Musar 2011 Musar Jeune White abv: 13% Price: $25 offers citrus and lush fruit flavors, with a spin of acid for 89 (Bekaa Valley). There’s a hint of violet per- balance. This is very good on its own, but it will also pair fume that permeates this dry yet honeyed wine. The Pheasant’s Tears 2009 Dry Unfiltered Am­ well with poultry, grilled seafood or spicy dishes. Athe- palate is fruity, with abundant ripe cherry and grape- 90 ber Wine (Kakheti). Aromatic, nee Importers. —S.K. fruit flavors, and layers of crushed chalk and stone lend with notes of black tea leaves, sandalwood and incense, abv: 13% Price: $21 a minerally complexity that builds on the midpalate. this smoky Georgian amber wine boasts delicate orange Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. rind and blossom flavors, swathed in bristling, chestnut- Gentilini 2010 Robola (Cephalonia). This abv: 13.5% Price: $22 skin-like tannins. There’s a wonderful textural richness 88 wine starts with a refined nose of lemon, peach attributable to the wine’s prolonged in tradi- and flower notes. The palate is lively and balanced, and Château Musar 2005 Gaston Hochar tional Georgian qvevri. Terrell Wines. —A.I. it offers ripe citrus flavors, buoyed by spice and flint 87 White (Bekaa Valley). There are dark veins abv: 12.5% Price: $18 notes. An expressive medium-bodied white with style. of smoke and flint that highlight the rippling minerality Athenee Importers. —S.K. Dergi 2007 Qvevri Dry Unfiltered White in this fascinating Lebanese white. It’s made in a de- abv: 13% Price: $22 Wine Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Quite tawny in liberately oxididative style, and it offers a slight baked- 89 color, this traditional Georgian qvevri wine has a high- Skouras 2010 Cuvée Larsinos Viognier apple flavor that slowly opens to reveal fresh citrus and toned apple aroma that’s peppered with carmelized sug- (Peloponnese). Apricot, citrus and honey honeysuckle notes. It’s not for everyone, but it’s a fasci- 88 ar and dried tea leaf hints. Dry and crisp, with penetrat- notes lead this impressive Viognier from Greece. On nating wine to enjoy over a long meal. Broadbent Selec- ing dried-apple and orange rind flavors, it finishes long, the palate, it shows good balance of white fruit, flower tions, Inc. —A.I. with its powerful black-tea tannins reverberating on the and pineapple notes. An elegant and unique selection. abv: 12% Price: $41 palate. Terrell Wines. —A.I. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 11.7% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $21 red wines Our Wine 2010 Vineyard Akhoebi Domaine Gerovassiliou 2011 White (Epa­ Château Musar 2004 Gaston Hochar Red 88 Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Intensely smoky and 87 nomi). Floral, fresh and delicate fruit aromas 88 (Bekaa Valley). Enticing whiffs of spice, dried earthy on the nose and palate, this Georgian qvevri- are followed by rich citrus, white fruit and flower fla- herb and ripe, briary berries emerge from this rich, aged wine is a showcase of minerality and textural com- vors. This is full bodied yet elegant, with a feminine structured wine. The fruit on the palate is lavish, almost plexity. It’s a savory wine with bristling tannins, and it edge. Pair it with Indian or Thai dishes. Cava Spiliadis. pulpy, but it’s framed by lush tannins and brisk acidity. bears just a hint of citrus that keeps the palate fresh and —S.K. The finish is herbal and bracing. Broadbent Selections, bright. Terrell Wines. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $25 Estate Constantin Gofas 2011 Mythic abv: 13.5% Price: $51 Iago’s Wine 2010 Chardakhi White Dry 87 River Sauvignon-Roditis (Corinth). A nose Château Musar 2010 Musar Jeune Red 87 With Skin Contact Unfiltered of peach, spice and citrus notes leads this light and lively (). white made from Roditis and Sauvignon Blanc. Lean (Bekaa Valley). Notes of ripe red berries and Whiffs of smoke and sea breeze entice on 88 the nose of this amber-hued , which was but likeable, it offers a lemon overtone on the palate plums permeate the nose and palate of this bold, con- aged in traditional clay vessels. Earthy on the palate, and a fresh, spicy finish. Pair it with grilled seafood, centrated blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvi- with hints of orange rind, mushroom and roasted chest- Thai dishes or cold chicken salads. Testa Wines Of The gnon. It has a rich texture, and it offers a flurry of soft nut, it’s shockingly tannic for wine made from white World. —S.K. tannins and hints of spice and graham cracker that lin- grapes—thanks to being exposed to its grape skins dur- abv: 13% Price: $15 ger on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. ing fermentation and maturation. A fascinating accom- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 paniment to almost any kind of cuisine. Terrell Wines. Domaine Gerovassiliou 2010 Viognier —A.I. 85 (Epanomi). Aromas of apricot, tropical fruit abv: 12% Price: $18 and spice lead this refreshing and expressive white. georgia On the palate, it tastes floral, with a thread of honeyed sweetness, but the acidity gives it bounce. Fun and white wines greece friendly. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $39 Alaverdi Monastery Cellar 2010 Qvevri Traditional Kakhuri Dry Unfiltered Am­ white wines 92 Gentilini 2010 Cellar Selection Robola ber Wine Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). From it’s musky, per- Estate Biblia Chora 2010 Ovilos (Pan­ 84 (Cephalonia). Notes of orange and lemon fumed to nose to it’s intensely honeyed, dried-peach- 90 geon). Orange blossom, apricot and honey preserves on the nose lead into flavors of orange, lem- and apricot-flavored palate, everything about this wine notes give the bouquet an opulent edge. On the pal- on and vanilla on the palate. It finishes with a touch of is mysterious and ethereal. Crafted by monks in an ate, it’s a wave of lush peach, apricot and honey flavors, spice. Athenee Importers. —S.K. ancient Georgian monastery, this amber-hued wine is finished with a delicate spice note. This will pair with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 made from white grapes that were fermented and aged everything from poultry to ethnic cuisine to fruit salad. in clay vessels (qvevri) and that underwent extend- Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Argyros 2011 Estate Argyros Aidani (Cy­ ed skin contact, which resulted in a wine with puck- abv: 13.5% Price: $38 82 clades). Lemon, mineral and spice notes char-

WineMag.com | 13 acterize this indigenous white from Greece. Dry and Chatzivariti 2010 Eurynome Red Dry refined feel. Pair with aged cheeses or meat dishes for clean, it will pair well with grilled fish or octopus. Athe- 87 Wine -Negoska (Goumenis­ extra appeal. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. nee Importers. —S.K. sa). This wine begins with rustic charm, and it features abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 12.2% Price: $27 notes of , cigar box and cedar, followed by equal- ly earthy flavors of spicebox, , vanilla and pep- Alpha Estate 2008 Syrah-Xinomavro (Flo­ per. The sturdy tannins and texture are softened by a 84 rina). This Syrah-Xinomavro blend offers notes rosés wave of red fruit. Pair this with grilled lamb or burgers. of clove and blueberry on the nose, followed by flavors of smoked meat, black fruit and cedar on the palate. It Lyrarakis 2011 Idyll Rosé (Crete). The Eklek­tikon, LLC. —S.K. feels big, and it finishes with a clean, spirited flourish. unique nose on this wine—which is comprised abv: 13.5% Price: $27 87 Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. of cherry, chocolate and warm spice aromas—is fol- Estate Biblia Chora 2008 Red (Pangeon). abv: 14% Price: $17 lowed on the palate by a delicate wave of cherry, rasp- Fresh and versatile, this Cabernet-Merlot blend berry and vanilla. It’s balanced, but has a sweet touch. 87 offers a balanced interplay of spice, pepper and red fruit Vaeni 2006 Aamackhnoc Xinomavro Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. (Naoussa). This red is a hunting lodge in a abv: 12.5% Price: $18 notes. The cherry, raspberry, leather and cedar flavors 84 will pair well with tomato-based dishes, grilled meats glass, with aromas of leather, game, cigar and cedar on Oenogenesis 2011 Enoeno Dry Rosé and stews. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. the nose, followed by flavors of blueberry, cigar box and vanilla on the palate. Pair this with earthy fare, such as (Drama). Aromatic and expressive, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $35 87 steak, grilled duck or dried sausage. Stellar Importing starts with aromas of wildflower and peach, and it leads Vaeni 2008 Emeros Dry Red Xinomavro Company, LLC. —S.K. into balanced flavors of white fruit, orange peel and (Naoussa). Clove, cinnamon and raspberry abv: 13% Price: $25 fresh berry. A pretty selection, with enough body to 87 aromas are followed by bright red-fruit and spice flavors span the seasons. Eklektikon, LLC. —S.K. Vaeni 2007 Naoussa Xinomavro (Naous­ abv: 12% Price: $23 on the palate. A dancing minerality keeps the wine’s spice and tannins in check. A good everyday red for 84 sa). Mint, cedar and clove aromas are followed Wine Art Estate 2011 Techni Alipiaç Dry burgers and pizza. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. by pepper, clove and black fruit flavors. It’s not overly complex, but it offers distinctive indigenous character, Rosé (Drama). Strawberry and raspberry Best Buy. —S.K. 86 and it will pair nicely with grilled meat. Stellar Import- notes come with a tart edge in this easygoing rosé. On abv: 12.3% Price: $11 ing Company, LLC. —S.K. the palate, strawberry, violet and spice notes are bal- Wine Art Estate 2008 Techni Alipiaç Dry abv: 12.5% Price: $15 anced and fresh. A good everyday choice that will pair Red (Drama). Aromas of cherry, spiced meat well with fruit salad, chicken salad and cold cuts. Dis- 87 and plum start off this masculine red. Flavors of smoke, A. Parparoussis 2005 Taos Dry Red Wine tinctive Imports LLC. —S.K. (Achaia). Leather, spice, red fruit and smoke abv: 13.5% Price: $22 spice and red fruit are balanced and easy to embrace, 83 and the wine offers ageable structure to boot. This is notes characterize this red blend. Dry and fresh, it will Ktima Tselepos 2011 Driopi an impressive selection that will pair well with hearty pair nicely with dried meats or tomato-based dishes. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Rosé (Peloponnese). Flavors of rose petal, dishes, but it will also be enjoyable on its own. Distinc- 84 abv: 13.5% Price: $37 cherry and a touch of spice characterize this rosé. A tive Imports LLC. —S.K. backbone of lively spice carries the sweet-tasting cher- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 ry flavors on the palate. Pair this with fruit salads or Boutari 2007 Grand Reserve Xinomavro tuscan white wines creamy cheeses. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. (Naoussa). abv: 13% Price: $15 86 Toasted nut, rhubarb, pepper and spice box aromas abound on the nose of this plucky red. bolgheri Black cherry, spice and pepper flavors follow. Clean, Skouras 2011 Zoë Rosé (Peloponnese). Donna Olimpia 1898 2010 White (Bol­ spicy and food friendly, this selection is ageable and as- 84 Sweet and tart notes—think maraschino cherry 90 gheri). Honey, pear, peach and mineral notes and citrus—start this opulent sip. Sweet-tasting cherry sertive. Terlato Wines International. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 open the bouquet of this fragrant blend of , and strawberry flavors follow. Not overly complex, but a Viognier and Petit Manseng. The palate is smooth, crisp fun summer wine. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Kir-Yianni 2008 Ramnista Xinomavro and silky in texture. Majestic Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12 86 (Naoussa). Rustic but rich, this Xinomavro abv: 12.5% Price: $35 starts with aromas of black fruit, allspice and cedar. Collemassari 2011 Grattamacco Vermen­ Hearty, lively flavors of smoke, black cherry, leather and red wines tino (Bolgheri). spice follow. Assertive but balanced, this can pair with 89 This oak-aged Vermentino is Lyrarakis 2008 Symbolo Grand Cuvée grilled meats, stews or burgers. VOS Selections. —S.K. pristine and fresh in style, and the palate offers some 89 (Crete). Plum and red berry aromas start this abv: 14% Price: $25 heft. Nuances of exotic fruit, lemon zest, apricot and integrated red blend, which is released only in the best almond cream appear on the finish. Bedford Interna- years. On the palate, plum, warm spice and oak tones Thymiopoulos Vineyards 2010 Young tional. —M.L. create a rich but clean character. The wine is structured 85 Vines Xinomavro (Naoussa). Smoked sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 and has room to age. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. , mushroom and clove aromas lead this big, spicy Batzella 2007 Mezzodì (Bolgheri). —S.K. red. Chewy on the palate, it offers flavors of smoke, pep- Viog- abv: 13% Price: $50 per and leathery spice. Pair it with grilled meats, spiced 88 nier and Vermentino spend some time in both stews or robust cheeses. Athenee Importers. —S.K. stainless steel and oak, which gives this blend fresh aro- Thymiopoulos Vineyards 2008 Uranos abv: 13.5% Price: $18 mas and a creamy palate. Stone fruit, apricot, honey 88 Xinomavro (Naoussa). Violet, black fruit and white flower notes are accompanied by mildly spicy and cedar notes lead this poised red. The palate is plush, Vaeni 2004 Naoussa Grande Reserve Xi­ overtones. Total Wine & More. —M.L. but finishes clean and dry. Subtle, clean and focused, it’s 85 nomavro (Naoussa). Violet, cigar box and abv: NA Price: $23 a good wine to savor alone or with steak. Athenee Im- smoke mark the nose of this distinctive Xinomavro. On Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2011 White porters. —S.K. the plate, spice, sweet cedar and clove give it a rustic but abv: 14% Price: $35 88 (Bolgheri). Here’s a from coastal Tuscany that makes you dream of enjoying a heaping plate of con vongole by the seaside. This blend

14 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 of Vermentino and Viognier is bright and fresh, and it Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Luminoso Castello di Ama 2010 Al Poggio (Tos­ offers lingering tones of citrus and sweet vanilla. Spe- 87 (Maremma Toscana). Approachable and 90 cana). This 80-20 blend of Chardonnay and cialty Wine Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. fresh, this is a wine to pair with seafood salad or grilled Pinot Grigio shows bright stone fruit and citrus aromas, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 . It offers pretty fragrances of stone fruit, citrus and followed by touches of tangy spice and vanilla cream. honey. Peter Warren Selections & Planet Wine. —M.L. The wine carries itself smoothly over the palate. The Casa di Terra 2011 Vermentino (Bolgh­ abv: 12% Price: $NA Sorting Table. —M.L. 87 eri). This Vermentino, which is blended with a abv: 13.5% Price: $30 touch of Sauvignon Blanc, shows a saturated golden col- Rocca di 2011 Astraio Viog­ or (a small percentage of the wine is aged in barrique). 87 nier (Maremma Toscana). This pretty Viog- Barone Ricasoli 2011 Torricella (Tos­ It has broad aromas of apricot, tangerine and almond nier shows bright tones of honey, stone fruit, melon and 89 cana). Torricella is an 80-20 blend of Char- paste. A touch of zesty acidity marks the finish. Superior peach. There’s a subtle creaminess that’s derived from donnay and Sauvignon Blanc that sees some oak aging Wines LLC. —M.L. the fruit itself, and it leaves a lasting floral impression for extra intensity and smoothness. Peach, citrus and ex- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA on the senses. Zonin USA. —M.L. otic fruit drive the soft, creamy finish. Dreyfus, Ashby abv: 13% Price: $15 & Co. —M.L. Michele Satta 2011 Costa di Giulia (Bol­ abv: 14% Price: $29 87 gheri). Crisp and bright, this Vermentino and Tenuta La Badiola 2011 Acquadoro Viog­ Sauvignon blend opens with loads of bright citrus and 87 nier (Maremma Toscana). The warm cli- Ceralti 2011 Lunarae (Toscana). This mineral tones. The finish is easy, fresh and lean. Banville mate of central helps to develop this Viognier’s 88 blend of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. ripe aromas of melon, honey and stone fruit. A glycerin- opens with pungent aromas of peppermint, dried apri- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 derived viscosity marks the finish. Terra Moretti Trad- cot and caramel candy. Loads of honey and yellow fruit ing. —M.L. flavors follow on the palate, backed by a rich, almost Serni Fulvio Luigi 2011 Radius Vermen­ abv: 13.5% Price: $25 chewy, consistency. HB Wine Merchants. —M.L. 87 tino (Bolgheri). This light Vermentino opens abv: 14.5% Price: $30 with a pale straw color, and it has lively aromas of citrus, Tenuta La Badiola 2011 Acquagiusta Ver­ kiwi, cut grass and mineral. A dose of refreshing acidity 87 mentino (Maremma Toscana). Glossy and Fattoria di Valiano 2011 Donna di Valiano marks the finish. Vico’s Imports. —M.L. bright in appearance, this Vermentino is backed by 88 Chardonnay (Toscana). Plump and gener- abv: 13% Price: $NA notes of stone fruit, honey and dried herb. On the pal- ous, this Chardonnay shows a ripe peach aroma, with ate, it feels crisp, streamlined and zesty. Terra Moretti honey and vanilla cream notes. The warmth and fullness Ceralti 2011 Vermentino (Bolgheri). This Trading. —M.L. of this wine recall the Tuscan sun. Aveniù Brands, Inc. 86 Vermentino opens with distinct tones of almond abv: 13% Price: $15 Editors’ Choice. —M.L. skin and stone fruit. The mouthfeel is lean and clean, abv: 14% Price: $15 with a compact feel and medium intensity. HB Wine Terre di Talamo 2011 Vento Teso Viog­ Merchants. —M.L. 87 nier (Maremma Toscana). The production Fattoria Fibbiano 2011 Fonte delle Donne abv: 13.5% Price: $23 of Viognier in coastal Tuscany is on the rise. This ex- 88 (Toscana). This white wine (Colombana and pression delivers mild aromatic intensity, with layers of Vermentino grapes in equal measures) shows bright Cipriana 2011 Paguro (Bolgheri). Paguro stone fruit, honey and cantaloupe. Michelangelo Im- aromas of stone fruits, backed by a touch of drying min- 86 shows subtle accents of citrus, crushed stone ports. —M.L. eral. The palate is fresh and clean, with good density. and grapefruit. The style is simple, clean and fresh. Roy- abv: 14% Price: $20 Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.L. alty Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA toscana Gualdo del Re 2011 Valentina Vermenti­ no (Toscana). This rich and generous expres- Le Macchiole 2010 Paleo (Toscana). In- 88 maremma toscana sion of Vermentino shows aromas of honey, dried hay, tense, generous aromas of white flower, passion 92 stone fruit and white almond. The dense, creamy palate Terre di Talamo 2010 Vento Forte Ver­ fruit, citrus blossom and crushed stone comprise the would stand up to spicy Thai coconut . Montcalm mentino (Maremma Toscana). Late har- nose. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay 90 Wine Importers. —M.L. vest fruit and 12 months of oak aging give this wine a offers impressive intensity and a long, spicy finish. Do- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 deep, full and sophisticated personality. It exudes notes maine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. of apricot, lemon , vanilla and white almond paste. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 Mazzei 2011 Tenuta Belguardo Vermen­ Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. tino (Toscana). abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Michele Satta 2010 Giovin Re Viognier 88 The Mazzei brothers produce a Vermentino of depth, brightness and persistency. It (Toscana). A sophisticated, oak-aged Viogni- 91 delivers long-lasting flavors of citrus, peach and orange Carpineto 2011 Valcolomba Vermenti­ er, this delivers smooth aromas of apricot, candied fruit, skin. Palm Bay International. —M.L. no (Maremma Toscana). Thanks to careful white peppercorn and almond skin. The palate is equal- 88 abv: NA Price: $17 clonal selection, this bright Vermentino shows a pristine ly generous, dense and rich. Banville & Jones Wine quality. It is redolent of pear, peach and honey, and it Merchants. —M.L. Casa di Terra 2011 Terre di Lavinia Ver­ shows a touch of dried herb on the finish. Opici Wines. abv: NA Price: $50 mentino (Toscana). Lean and bright, this Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 87 easygoing Vermentino would pair well with fried cala- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Tua Rita 2011 Lodano (Toscana). This mari or tempura. The palate shows fullness oak-aged blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer 91 and a fragrant lemon-zest flavor. Superior Wines LLC. Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Calasole Ver­ and Chardonnay shows enormous intensity and per- —M.L. mentino (Maremma Toscana). This crisp sonality, and it offers beaming aromas of sun-ripened 88 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and snappy wine shows characteristics of stone peach, apricot, pear and exotic fruit. Smooth sensations fruit, cut grass and pear, backed by a full and generous of honey and vanilla cream drive the long, generous fin- Donna Olimpia 1898 2011 Obizzo Ver­ mouthfeel that speaks of the warm Tuscan sun. Pair this ish. —M.L. mentino (Toscana). Bright and tangy, this with assorted Chinese . Zonin USA. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $NA 87 wine delivers a full bouquet of citrus and white flower Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 aromas. Touches of white pepper and crushed mineral

WineMag.com | 15 appear on the finish, followed by bright acidity. Majestic Grigio for the U.S. market. Easy and fresh, this wine has density would pair with baccalà or white meat. David Imports. —M.L. touches of pear and citrus. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. Vincent Selection. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $9 Gualdo del Re 2011 Eliseo Pinot Bianco Casa di Terra 2011 Allegra Rosato (Bol­ 87 (Toscana). There aren’t many monovarietal Buccia Nera 2011 Donna Patrizia (Tos­ 87 gheri). This wine opens with aromas of forest expressions of Pinot Bianco from Tuscany. This wine 85 cana). This is a blend of , berry, sour cherry and white almond. The finish is tangy, delivers bold fruit tones of apricot and pear, followed and Grechetto. The mildness of its fruity bouquet and fruity and fresh, with bright acidity and crisp fruit. Su- by a creamy exotic-fruit flavor on the finish. Montcalm the leanness of its mouthfeel suggest that it should be perior Wines LLC. —M.L. Wine Importers. —M.L. paired with tuna salads or steamed . Maxi- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $19 mum Wine. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Castello di Ama 2011 Rosato (Toscana). Liverano 2010 L’Anima (Toscana). 87 A blend of mostly Sangiovese, with a touch of 87 L’Anima, which is Italian for “the soul,” is a Casa Sola 2011 Pergliamici (Toscana). Merlot, this delivers a fresh flower tone and a tangy for- blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Gewürztramin- 85 This expression of Trebbiano and Chardonnay is est-berry flavor. It feels creamy, with medium density, er, and it shows pretty aromas of white flower, honey made in a slim, easygoing style, and it offers pretty tones and it has crisp acidity that keeps the palate refreshed. and exotic fruit. The density and creaminess of the of stone fruit, pear and honey. It’s a fine wine to serve at The Sorting Table. —M.L. mouthfeel recall the wine’s warm-climate Tuscan roots. a picnic. The House of Burgundy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Donna Olimpia 1898 2011 Agoghè Ro­ 87 sato (Toscana). This wine opens with forest Mocali 2011 Fossetti (Toscana). This Tus- other white wines fruit, chopped herb and fresh almond-blossom notes. 87 can blend of Sauvignon, Moscato and Trebbiano Cà del Vispo 2011 Massimo Daldin (Ver­ The finish feels full and silky. Majestic Imports. —M.L. offers fragrant aromas of white flower and honeysuckle, abv: 12.5% Price: $18 naccia di San Gimignano). Seafood platters backed by notes of stone fruit and citrus. The mouthfeel 87 loaded with steamed mussels and spicy crab cakes call is lean, easy and fresh. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Mazzei 2011 Tenuta Belguardo Rosa­ out for a fresh, vibrant Vernaccia just like this bottling. abv: NA Price: $16 to (Toscana). A 50-50 blend of Sangiovese Massimo Daldin offers touches of vanilla cream, yellow 87 and Syrah, this bright rosato opens with a rose aroma, fruits and nuts, which give it momentum and character. Poggio al Tesoro 2011 Solosole Vermen­ backed by pink grapefruit and forest fruit notes. The Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. tino (Toscana). Honey, peach and pear aro- mouthfeel has a bright, lean quality that makes it a plea- 87 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 mas open the nose on this fresh Vermentino. A touch sure to drink. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $17 of vanilla cream gives the finish a full, generous feel. Collemassari 2011 Melacce Vermen­ Winebow. —M.L. tino (Montecucco). Made from organically abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 Poggio al Tesoro 2011 Cassiopea Rosato farmed fruit, this bright Vermentino opens with pretty (Bolgheri). This rosato has aromas of wild ber- aromas of peach, honey, pear and ap- 87 Poggiotondo 2011 Vermentino (Tos­ ry, citrus, almond flower and dried herb. Light and lean, ple. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky. Bedford Inter- cana). A pure expression of Vermentino, this this would pair with barbecued shrimp or fish . 87 national. —M.L. offers aromas of citrus, peach, dried hay and Golden Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Delicious apple. Pair this bright white with Thai dishes abv: 12% Price: $20 or spicy Indian food. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. Rampa di Fugnano 2011 Alata (Vernac­ abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Fattoria Lavacchio 2011 Albeggio Rosa­ cia di San Gimignano). This bright Vernac- 87 to (Toscana). Albeggio is a Syrah-based rosato cia layers pretty tones of citrus, pear and cut grass over a 86 Tenuta Argentiera 2011 Poggio ai Ginepri that offers accents of cranberry, cassis and blueberry, lean texture and medium body. This is a good choice to (Toscana). This refreshing blend of Viognier, backed by fresh acidity and medium density. It would 87 pair with seafood or light salads. Luxe Vintages. —M.L. Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc offers bright, intense pair well with roasted in sauce. Best abv: 12.5% Price: $20 notes of peach, pear and lemon mousse, plus aromatic Value Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 highlights of honey and jasmine. David Vincent Selec- Tenuta del Buonamico 2011 Vermentino tion. —M.L. (Montecarlo). This is the kind of food-friendly abv: 13% Price: $19 87 Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2011 Rosato wine to pair with grilled shrimp or fish tacos. (Bolgheri). Fresh, floral and lively, this bright It presents clean aromas of citrus, pear and stone fruit, 86 Altadonna 2011 Vermentino (Toscana). wine offers tones of wild berry, pink grapefruit and crisp backed by zesty acids on the finish. Vintners Estate Di- Fresh and easy, this bright Vermentino would green apple. There’s enough acidity to balance fried ap- 86 rect Importing. —M.L. pair well with vegetable egg rolls or easy Spanish tapas. petizers or -topped . Specialty Wine Co. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 The wine’s crisp acidity is followed by peach, citrus and —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 pear flavors. Opici Wines. —M.L. Tenuta del Buonamico 2011 Bianco abv: 12.5% Price: $15 (Montecarlo). Trebbiano, Sémillon, Rous- 86 L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2011 Cantal­ sanne, Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco form this unique Fornacelle 2011 Sémillon (Toscana). ici Petali di Rosé (Toscana). This Sangio- blend. It offers subtle tones of peach, pineapple and 86 Slightly closed at first, this Sémillon needs a vese-based rosato is vinified solely in stainless steel in 86 honeysuckle. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. few minutes in the glass before the aromas become order to preserve the freshness of its forest berry and abv: 12.5% Price: $16 charged. Exotic fruit and pineapple notes appear with cranberry flavors. A touch of bitter almond adds bright- citrus and peach accents. The finish is simple and fresh. ness to the finish. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. Tradizione Imports. —M.L. rosés —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Tenuta Argentiera 2011 Poggio ai Gine­ Banfi 2011 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tos­ 88 pri Rosato (Bolgheri). A blend of Cabernet Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2011 Bacio Rosato 85 cana). Le Rime is made as both a Chardonnay- Sauvignon and Syrah, this wine offers intense aromas 86 (Montescudaio). Lively aromas of blueberry, Pinot Grigio blend and as a pure expression of Pinot of raspberry, cherry and almond paste. The mouthfeel’s raspberry and forest fruit mark this rosato. A touch of

16 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 bitter almond skin appears on the crisp finish. Emilia olate. The mouthfeel is smooth, rich and opulent. Total bright and firm, with a polished, dusty mouthfeel. Com- Imports. —M.L. Beverage Solution. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. munal Brands. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $30

Tenuta La Badiola 2011 Acquagiusta Ro­ Caccia al Piano 1868 2010 Ruit Hora Donna Olimpia 1898 2010 Rosso (Bolgh­ 86 sato (Maremma Toscana). Based on Alican- 91 (Bolgheri). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sau- 90 eri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, te, this wine shows bright acidity and a lean mouthfeel, vignon and Petit Verdot, this opens with drying mineral Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this offers a clean, accented by notes of berry, pink grapefruit and cran­ tones of granite and campfire, and it has austere, dusty polished feel, as well as tightly woven forest-fruit and berry. A touch of sweet fruit marks the finish. Terra tannins. The fruit is bold, pulled together by notes of mineral tones. There’s a blast of freshness that’s fol- Moretti Trading. —M.L. cherry, cassis, leather and spice. Tita Italian Import & lowed by soft cherry and tangy herb endnotes. Majestic abv: 13% Price: $15 Export. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Fonterenza 2011 Rosa di Fonterenza (To­ 83 scana). This organic, Sangiovese-based rosato Casa di Terra 2010 Mosaico (Bolgheri). Le Grascete 2010 Grale (Bolgheri). A opens with subtle tones of raspberry and citrus. The 91 Bold, ripe fruit and chocolate notes open the 90 blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- palate has a slender feel. Louis/Dressner Selections. nose of this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pe- lot and Sangiovese, this shows an impressive jump for- —M.L. tit Verdot. The wine is layered and rich, with lingering ward in terms of its intensity and complexity. This wine abv: 12% Price: $19 tones of tobacco and sweet spice. Superior Wines LLC. is generous, full and round, and it offers flavors of cher- —M.L. ry, leather and chocolate. International Wines. Editors’ abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Choice. —M.L. tuscan red wines abv: 13% Price: $23 Cipriana 2009 Scopaio Red Blend (Bol­ bolgheri 91 gheri). An 80-20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon Michele Satta 2009 Piastraia (Bolgheri). and Syrah, this shows a pristine, polished bouquet that’s 90 A blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Sauvi- Casa di Terra 2009 Maronea (Bolgh­ composed of black fruit, rum cake, licorice, tobacco gnon, Syrah and Sangiovese, Piastraia opens with tangy 93 eri). An 85-15 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and spice. The ripe fruit and cassis notes on the finish green hints of rosemary and curry leaf, followed by and Cabernet Franc, this shows incredible intensity add softness and heft. This is elegant and complex, es- notes of ripe strawberry, cherry liqueur and blackberry and gorgeous aromas of cherry, blackberry, oak-driven pecially in the mouth. Imports LLC. Editors’ jam. Touches of leather and tobacco surface on the pal- spice, chocolate and coffee. The round, velvety texture Choice. —M.L. ate, and the tannins are firm and richly textured. Ban- makes the palate feel supersupple and long, and the abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. bright berry flavors demonstrate impressive endurance. abv: NA Price: $45 Drink after 2015. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Marchesi Antinori 2010 Guado al Tasso abv: 15% Price: $NA 91 Il Bruciato (Bolgheri). For full review see Podere Sapaio 2010 Volpolo (Bolgheri). page 7. 90 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Le Macchiole 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri). A abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Petit Verdot, this delivers soft, concentrated flavors of 93 blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah, this shows chocolate fudge, cherry and cinnamon spice. It’s an ir- outstanding intensity and length. It has long-lasting fla- Serni Fulvio Luigi 2009 Acciderba (Bol­ resistible, opulent wine that promises to impress. Lyra vors of chocolate, bright cherry, spice and leather. Do- 91 gheri). This Acciderba shows elegance and in- Wine. —M.L. maine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. tensity, and it offers notes of oak-derived spice, dried abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $30 herb, blackberry and clove. On the palate, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese Serni Fulvio Luigi 2010 Tegoleto (Bolgh­ Tenuta dei Pianali 2008 Coronato (Bol­ delivers firm tannins and tangy barbecue and teriyaki 90 eri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and 93 gheri). Formerly Tenuta di Biserno, Tenuta notes. Vico’s Imports. —M.L. Sangiovese, this has dark tones of plum and blackberry­ , dei Pianali produces Coronato specifically for the U.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 followed by accents of spice, leather and tobacco. It market. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and would pair well with grilled sausage or meatloaf thanks Cabernet Franc opens with bold and fleshy cherry fruit Tenuta Argentiera 2010 Villa Donoratico to the fresh acidity on the finish. Vico’s Imports. —M.L. backed by savory tones of pipe tobacco, leather, choco- 91 (Bolgheri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $NA late and exotic spice. The wine is full, soft and generous Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this opens on the palate. Drink now or hold five more years. Wil- with bold, opulent tones of black fruit, ripe cherry, Tenuta Argentiera 2009 Villa Donoratico son Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. espresso bean and plum. The wine’s delicate acidity and 90 (Bolgheri). This silky blend of Cabernet Sau- abv: 14% Price: $40 ample extraction are followed by flavors of leather, spice vignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot shows and dark chocolate. David Vincent Selection. Editors’ balanced aromas of black fruit and plum, plus spicy lay- Tenuta dell’ 2010 Le Serre Nu­ Choice. —M.L. ers of toasted nut and black pepper. Firm tannins give 93 ove (Bolgheri). This Tuscan blend opens with abv: 14% Price: $25 the finish momentum. David Vincent Selection. —M.L. inky dark concentration and soft aromas of ripe cherry abv: 14% Price: $25 and chocolate fudge. You can taste the plump, ripe and Batzella 2009 Peàn (Bolgheri). This blend opulent flavors that will carry this age-worthy wine far 90 of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Caber- Tenuta I Greppi 2010 Greppicante (Bol­ into the future. The tannins are smooth and soft: Drink net Franc shows soft tones of milk chocolate and plush 90 gheri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot after 2016. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selec- cherry, backed by a tangy spice note. The fruit feels ripe and Cabernet Franc, this has a polished, elegant side, tion. —M.L. and round, although the palate remains firmly struc- and it offers bold fruit tones that are followed by barbe- abv: 14% Price: $90 tured thanks to the polished tannins. Total Wine & cue sauce and stone accents. It feels zesty and perky on More. —M.L. the finish thanks to the boldness of the fruit. Massanois Castello di Bolgheri 2010 Varvàra (Bol­ abv: 14% Price: $25 Imports. —M.L. 92 gheri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 lot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this is generous in terms of Campo alla Sughera 2010 Adèo (Bolgh­ its aromatic intensity and persistence. The wine opens 90 eri). Dark ruby color in color, this Cabernet Tenuta Moraia 2010 Pietracupa (Bolgh­ with tones of espresso, dark berry, sweet spice and choc- Sauvignon and Merlot blend opens with bright tones of 90 eri). This blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% forest fruit, lead pencil, cola and crushed mineral. It is Merlot shows pristine, lively accents of cherry, black-

WineMag.com | 17 berry and prune. Spicy leather and tobacco tones bring and cherry appear on the finish. Total Wine & More. Michele Satta 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri). up the rear, which give the palate extra girth and den- —M.L. 88 Forward notes of black fruit and cherry are fol- sity. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 lowed by touches of white almond and rum cake. This abv: 13.5% Price: $25 oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Campo al Mare 2010 Campo al Mare Merlot, Teroldego and Syrah is tangy and fresh. Ban- Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2010 Patri­ 88 (Bolgheri). Tones of leather, tobacco and wild ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. 89 monio (Bolgheri). Touches of rum cake and mushroom are followed by accents of ripe fruit and abv: 13% Price: $25 licorice lend this 60-40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry preserves. Notes of rum cake, licorice and and Merlot an impression of intensity and persistence. Indian spice give complexity to this blend of Merlot, Campo al Noce 2010 Assiolo (Bolgheri). The wine delivers flavors of blackberry and candied Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 87 This wine’s personality is driven by its cola, wild cherry. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. Kobrand Corporation. —M.L. berry, spice, leather and maraschino cherry notes. It’s abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 slightly raw and rustic, with a bitter almond accent. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Campo al Noce 2009 Miterre (Bolgheri). Casa di Terra 2011 Moreccio (Bolgheri). Franc. Brvenik Wine. —M.L. 89 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Ca- 88 Soft, round and pleasurable, this Syrah-Merlot- abv: 14% Price: $NA berent Franc, this shows pungent green tones of rose- Cabernet Sauvignon blend would pair well with pastas Ceralti 2011 Scirè (Bolgheri). mary, bay leaf and dried herb, followed by flavors of or roasts. Bright cherry and blackberry flavors are fol- This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot offers tight cherry, blackberry and nutmeg. The tannins are firm lowed by subtle leather and spice accents. The mouth- 87 aromas of cola and tar, followed by soft layers of ber- and polished, and the finish is bright and fresh. Brvenik feel is fresh and fruity. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. ry, cherry and spicy cinnamon. HB Wine Merchants. Wine. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16 Cipriana 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri). This Collemassari 2010 Podere Grattamacco blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens (Bolgheri). 88 Motta 2010 Pievi (Bolgheri). Ripe raspber- 89 This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, with forest berry and cassis notes, backed by rum cake, ry and strawberry notes are followed by mild Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese shows bright leather and tobacco accents. The palate is sharp, tight 87 tones of vanilla spice, rum cake and tobacco. This blend aromas of cassis and blackberry. Light touches of spice and streamlined. Royalty Imports LLC. —M.L. of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese has a and leather lend the finish heft and determination. Bed- abv: 13% Price: $15 ford International. —M.L. clean, smooth mouthfeel. Distinctive Italian Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Collemassari 2011 Podere Grattamac­ abv: 13% Price: $19 co (Bolgheri). This super Tuscan blend has Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2010 Borgeri 88 touches of savory spice and smoked meat that give it (Bolgheri). Bright bramble and forest floor Podere Guado al Melo 2009 Antillo (Bol­ 89 added sophistication. Notes of bitter almond and sour notes are followed by black cherry and blackberry ac- 87 gheri). A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sau- cherry appear, but are well integrated. Bedford Inter- cents. Fresh and tangy, the finish shows enough struc- vignon and Petit Verdot, this shows bright, balanced national. —M.L. ture to pair with stewed veal and baked potatoes. Spe- aromas of berry, spice and almond. Touches of forest abv: 12.5% Price: $40 cialty Wine Co. —M.L. floor, bramble and crisp fruit bring up the rear. Private abv: 14% Price: $20 Reserve. —M.L. Ferrari Iris e Figli 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri). abv: 13% Price: $17 Black fruit and tobacco notes open the nose of Podere Guado al Melo 2009 Rosso (Bol­ 88 this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver- gheri). Fresh and lively, this Cabernet Sau- Poggio alle Querce 2009 Il Guado (Bol­ 89 dot. Easy yet structured on the palate, this has loads of vignon (blended with 10% Merlot) opens with aro- 86 gheri). A 80-20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon mas of forest berry, cherry, light spice and almond. It berry-like freshness and clean acidity. Pair it with lamb. and Merlot, this opens with a polished bouquet that’s feels streamlined and crisp, and it would pair well with Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. comprised of red fruit, spice and rubber notes, en- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA cheesy or lasagna. Private Reserve. —M.L. hanced by leather, tobacco, dark cherry fruit and exotic abv: 13.5% Price: $26 spice accents. A hint of Band-Aid brings up the rear. Ar- Fornacelle 2011 Zizzolo (Bolgheri). Fresh tisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. Tenuta Argentiera 2010 Poggio ai Gine­ 88 and youthful, this opens with cherry and black- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 89 pri (Bolgheri). Aromas of bresaola and baked berry scents. It shows firm tannins and good structure cherry are backed by a fresh tone of blackberry. On the on the finish. The blend is 60% Merlot and 40% Caber- palate, this crisp, fresh blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, net Sauvignon. Tradizione Imports. —M.L. Bolgheri Superiore Syrah and Merlot offers light spice and tobacco notes. abv: 14% Price: $15 Giovanni Chiappini 2009 Guado de’ David Vincent Selection. —M.L. 100 Gemoli (Bolgheri Superiore). This abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Giovanni Chiappini 2011 Felciaino (Bol­ small, family-run estate in the heart of Bolgheri has de- 88 gheri). The bouquet of this blend of Sangio- livered a wine so beautiful and elegant, it is catapulted Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2010 Casa vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon shows a pungent to the level of landmark vintages of its celebrated neigh- 88 al Piano (Bolgheri). This blend of Cabernet note of fresh blackberry, followed by accents of rum bors, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Inky concentration sets Sauvignon and Merlot opens with aromas of cherry li- cake and spice. It’s a firm wine, with sweet-tasting fruit. the stage for generous, but perfectly integrated, aromas queur and cassis, followed by accents of leather and The Shepherd Company. —M.L. of spice, chocolate and dark fruit. There’s firm round- toasted nut. The palate is tight and fresh, and it offers abv: 14% Price: $65 ness in the mouth, followed by unforgettable persis- touches of citrus and forest fruit. Martin Scott Wines. tence. Hold this wine 15 years or more. The Shepherd —M.L. Giovanni Chiappini 2011 Ferruggini (Bol­ Company. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18 88 gheri). This youthful blend of Sangiovese and abv: 15% Price: $NA Cabernet Sauvignon opens with fruity tones of cherry, Batzella 2010 Digià (Bolgheri). Aged in raspberry and blueberry. The freshness of the fruit sets Marchesi Antinori 2009 Guado al Tasso 88 stainless steel, this blend of Cabernet Sauvi- this wine apart and makes it easy to drink. The Shep- 98 (Bolgheri Superiore). For full review see gnon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah emits ripe aromas of herd Company. —M.L. page 3. Cellar Selection. dark fruit, brown sugar and molasses. Notes of honey abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

18 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2009 Ornellaia (Bol­ ate this plump, superrich wine. There are hints of cured sonality, with overtones of , clove, curry and 97 gheri Superiore). If you’ve ever wondered meat, Christmas spice and dark berry fruit. The palate rosemary. There are bold notes of ripe blackberry and what makes this wine so special, the answer is simple: reveals ripe fruit flavors and velvety tannins. Hold this prune, backed by drying sensations of tar and licorice. elegance. This shows polished fruit and spice aromas for 7–10 years. David Vincent Selection. Cellar Selec- The oak-driven exotic-spice nuances are almost over the that are intense, balanced and beautifully integrated. tion. —M.L. top. Tradizione Imports. —M.L. The blend is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the bal- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ance made up of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver- dot. The palate is dense, rich, smooth and supple. Drink Collemassari 2009 Podere Grattamacco Grattamacco 2009 L’Alberello (Bolgheri this after 2018. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Se- 93 (Bolgheri Superiore). Focused and tight in 92 Superiore). An opulent blend of Cabernet lection. —M.L. style, this wine has linear and elegant aromas of bright Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this deliv- abv: 14.5% Price: $240 cherry, spice, dark chocolate and licorice. The blend ers soft tones of cherry and mild chocolate, followed by is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, and it subtle notes of leather and spice. It demonstrates over- Michele Satta 2008 I Castagni (Bolgheri shows firm, dry and dusty tannins on the finish. Bedford all balance, and its intensity is elegantly understated. 95 Superiore). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, International. —M.L. The palate delivers firm but velvety tannins. Bedford Syrah and Teroldego, this delivers bold aromas of choc- abv: 14% Price: $105 International. —M.L. olate, spice, dark fruit, caramel and graham cracker. It abv: 14% Price: $75 feels linear and tight on the finish, and it offers firmly Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2009 Impron­ structured tannins that are surrounded by loads of ripe 93 te (Bolgheri Superiore). A 70-30 blend of Tenuta I Greppi 2009 Greppicaia (Bolgh­ fruit and mocha flavors. Age this for 10 more years. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this opens 92 eri Superiore). This shows bold oak tones of Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. with oak-driven aromas of spice and toast, which give toast and spice that will unwind with 3–5 more years of —M.L. it a bold personality. Loads of bright cherry, blackberry, bottle age. Beyond the notes of cinnamon and tobacco, abv: NA Price: $100 plum and licorice flavors appear on the palate to balance this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet out the spice. Smooth but firm tannins give the wine Franc shows austerity and complexity, with touches of Aia Vecchia 2009 Sorugo (Bolgheri Su­ structure and longevity. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L. dark plum and tangy barbecue sauce. Give it a few more 94 periore). Soft and velvety, this blend of Caber- abv: 14% Price: $40 years. Massanois Imports. —M.L. net Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver- abv: 13.5% Price: $58 dot releases intense notes of blackberry, cherry, choco- Caccia al Piano 1868 2008 Levia Gravia late, spice and leather. It shows plush layers of dark fruit 92 (Bolgheri Superiore). A bold blend of Cab- Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2008 Ren­ and tangy tobacco that build the palate’s momentum. ernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this opens with soft 91 zo (Bolgheri Superiore). This 80-20 blend Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. and luscious fruit tones of cherry and blackberry jam. of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens with milk abv: 15% Price: $35 Leather and tobacco add a savory, masculine quality, chocolate, cherry, exotic spice, blackberry jam and and there’s a tart red-fruit flavor that adds a touch of crème de cassis notes. The mouthfeel is chewy, rich and Campo alla Sughera 2009 Arnione (Bol­ refreshing acidity. Tita Italian Import & Export. —M.L. plush, and the supple tannins are followed by loads of 94 gheri Superiore). A blend of Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $56 dark berry fruit. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. vignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this abv: 13.5% Price: $30 shows a dark, masculine personality, and it offers bit- Campo al Mare 2009 Baia al Vento (Bol­ ter chocolate, dark cherry, blackberry, rum cake, leath- 92 gheri Superiore). From producers Ambrogio Castello di Bolgheri 2009 Rosso (Bolgh­ er and black licorice notes. Dark fruit on the palate is & Giovanni Folonari, Baia al Vento (90% Merlot with 91 eri Superiore). Castello di Bolgheri enjoys backed by well-structured tannins, which suggest im- small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Ver- some of the most coveted vineyard sites that are locat- pressive longevity. Communal Brands. —M.L. dot) shows ripe fruit, plum, blackberry preserves and ed a stone’s throw away from the Bolgheri castle tower. abv: 14% Price: $75 cherry backed by cured meat, tobacco and dried rose- The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet mary. The wine is round and soft with bright points of Franc and Petit Verdot, and it delivers black fruit aro- Donna Olimpia 1898 2009 Millepassi acidity that keeps it balanced. Kobrand Corporation. mas, backed by wet earth, button mushroom and leath- 94 (Bolgheri Superiore). A blend of Cabernet —M.L. er notes. It feels plush, yet structured. Total Beverage Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this opens with abv: 14.5% Price: $33 Solution. —M.L. spicy aromas of dried ginger, licorice and herb. It shows abv: 14.5% Price: $65 power and determination in terms of its bold fruit and Campo al Noce 2008 Riverbero (Bolgh­ concentration. Drink now, or hold it for 10 years. Ma- 92 eri Superiore). This blend of 80% Cabernet Ferrari Iris e Figli 2009 Rosso (Bolgheri jestic Imports. —M.L. Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc shows intensity, ex- 91 Superiore). This 80-20 blend of Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $60 traction and tight, polished tannins. Between the wine’s Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc shows a bright cherry strength and structure are soft layers of dark fruit, spice, aroma, with spice, leather and tar notes in the back- Podere Sapaio 2009 Sapaio (Bolgheri leather and tobacco that evolve over time. Brvenik ground. It shows a soft, plush feel, with good balance. 94 Superiore). For full review see page 4. Wine. —M.L. Old Bridge Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $35

Poggio al Tesoro 2009 Sondraia (Bolgh­ Ceralti 2009 Alfeo (Bolgheri Superiore). Le Grascete 2009 Le Grascete (Bolgh­ 94 eri Superiore). A Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot 92 A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and 89 eri Superiore). A distant whiff of rubber or and Cabernet Franc blend, this shows immense density Cabernet Franc, this is packed with Tuscan sunshine asphalt appears at first, followed by notes of black fruit, and richness, and it exudes bright tones of cherry, black- and intensity. Notes of blackberry, leather, tobacco and cherry, rum cake and licorice. This 70-30 blend of Cab- berry, chocolate, tar, clove and licorice. The bouquet is dark chocolate are recognizeable. It’s dense and thick, ernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a lean but elegant and complex, but the smoothness of the mouth- yet it delivers soft, velvety sensations on the finish. HB powerful mouthfeel. International Wines. —M.L. feel is what sets this wine apart. Winebow. —M.L. Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Tenuta Argentiera 2009 Argentiera (Bol­ Fornacelle 2009 Guarda Boschi (Bolgh­ montescudaio gheri Superiore). eri Superiore). 94 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvi- 92 This blend of Merlot, Caber- Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2008 Castello Gi­ gnon and Cabernet Franc are blended together to cre- net Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc boasts a spicy per- 91 nori Merlot (Montescudaio). Here is a love-

WineMag.com | 19 ly expression of Merlot from the up-and-coming Mon- spice, toasted nut and tobacco. It feels linear, bright and tescudaio zone, which is located on the Tuscan coast just Chianti Classico tight, but it is also elegant and soft. Henriot Inc. —M.L. north of Bolgheri. The wine shows immense softness, Brancaia 2009 Riserva (Chianti Classi­ abv: 14.5% Price: $48 and it has a huge cherry flavor that has been shaped by 92 co). For full review see page 6. spice and chocolate accents from 18 months in barrel. abv: 14% Price: $40 Vignavecchia 2007 Riserva (Chianti Emilia Imports. —M.L. 90 Classico). Vignavecchia hits its stride with this abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Cecchi 2008 Riserva di Famiglia (Chian­ successful wine, which reveals spicy, exotic flavors en- 92 ti Classico). This riserva opens with intense hanced by vibrant tones of incense and moist pipe to- Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2009 Campor­ tones of ripe cherry, chocolate, leather and light spice. bacco. Fresh fruit lends the palate a plump, soft and 88 digno (Montescudaio). An 85-15 blend of The palate feels firm and smooth, with mild tannins and rich feel. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Merlot and Sangiovese, this oak-aged selection shows a rich, velvety texture. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 bright cherry and blackberry notes, backed by choco- —M.L. late, leather and mild spice accents. The round, supple abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Villa Vignamaggio 2009 Castello di Mon­ mouthfeel would pair well with grilled lamb kebabs. 90 na Lisa Riserva (Chianti Classico). This Emilia Imports. —M.L. Castello di Gabbiano 2009 Bellezza bright expression of Sangiovese is smooth and polished, abv: 15% Price: $15 91 Riserva (Chianti Classico). With fruit se- and it offers notes of cassis, blueberry, almond paste and lected from a single-vineyard site, this riserva does a pressed violet. Pair it with and porcini. Bed- Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2009 Macchion nice job of portraying a fresh cherry flavor within an ford International. —M.L. 88 del Lupo Cabernet Sauvignon (Montes­ elaborate framework of oak spice, leather and tobacco abv: 14.5% Price: $42 cudaio). This Cabernet Sauvignon shows a dark fruit notes. The wine is propped up by tight wood-derived aroma, with an herbal note at the back. It has a smooth tannins, which gives it a firm structure. It could use a Castellare di Castellina 2009 Il Poggia­ texture and medium intensity, and it would stand up to few more years of cellar aging Treasury Wine Estates. 89 le Riserva (Chianti Classico). Il Poggiale or roast turkey and gravy. Emilia Imports. —M.L. —M.L. Riserva opens with bold tones of blackberry pie, plum, abv: NA Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $30 currant, leather, rum cake and dried rosemary. There’s a ripe, almost jammy, quality to the fruit, and the palate Castello di 2009 Riserva (Chianti feels dense and richly textured. Winebow. —M.L. Val di Cornia 91 Classico). At the heart of the Chianti Classico abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Suvereto region, this estate is responsible for some of the most elegant and traditional expressions of this fabled wine. La Castellina 2008 Squarcialupi Riserva Gualdo del Re 2007 I’Rennero Merlot (Val A bright cherry flavor is framed by oak-driven tones of 89 (Chianti Classico). Squarcialupi Riserva has 92 di Cornia Suvereto). This expression of Mer- vanilla spice and mocha. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. shown a successful evolution over the years. This bot- lot is soft and plush, and it offers layers of cherry, rasp- abv: 13.5% Price: $27 tling opens with tangy aromas of tobacco, dark fruit, berry and soft spice. Oak-derived aromas of toasted al- clove and eucalyptus. Small percentages of Merlot and mond and clove are delicate and well integrated. Mont- Castellare di Castellina 2009 Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon are added to the blend, but the calm Wine Importers. —M.L. 90 (Chianti Classico). This riserva shows clean, wine’s winning card comes from Sangiovese’s natural abv: 14.5% Price: $61 polished lines, and it offers bright nuances of cherry, acidity, which lends the wine a crisp, menthol-like fin- blackberry, leather and moist earth. The mouthfeel is ish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. Gualdo del Re 2007 Federico Primo Cab­ crisp but powerful, and there’s a lingering sensation of abv: 14% Price: $35 91 ernet Sauvignon (Val di Cornia Suvere­ forest berry and chopped herb on the finish. Winebow. to). Federico Primo is a consistent expression of Cab- —M.L. Renieri 2008 Tenuta di Renieri Riser­ ernet Sauvignon that doles out generous layers of plum abv: 13.5% Price: $24 89 va (Chianti Classico). This wine shows the and blackberry, backed by spicy tones of pipe tobacco meaty, masculine side of Sangiovese, offering dark tones and juniper. The oak-derived nuances add extra dimen- L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2009 Can­ of prune, plum, wet earth, tobacco and dried violet. The sion and length to the finish. Montcalm Wine Import- 90 talici Messer Ridolfo Riserva (Chianti grape’s signature freshness washes away any residual ers. —M.L. Classico). This selection opens with bold aromas of heaviness imparted by the wine’s richness. Michelan- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 black cherry, spice, dark chocolate and tobacco. On the gelo Imports. —M.L. palate, dark berry notes dominate, accented by savory abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Petra 2009 Ebo (Val di Cornia Suvereto). tones. The wine is fresh and extracted. Roanoke Valley 89 The Val di Cornia Suvereto appellation may not Wine Company. —M.L. Barone Ricasoli 2010 Brolio (Chianti be recognized much abroad (or even in Italy), but it is abv: 14% Price: $32 88 Classico). This historic wine offers a nostalgic definitely worth keeping an eye on. This blend of Cab- glimpse of what consumers love most about Sangiovese ernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese is rich, soft, Principe Corsini 2009 Le Corti (Chianti and Chianti Classico. It is steady and clean, and it pro- and medium in intensity, and it offers great balance be- 90 Classico). Le Corti is a bright, slender expres- vides bright pulses of cherry, spice and tobacco. Drey- tween the red fruit and dark spice components. Terra sion of Chianti Classico compared to Principe Corsi- fus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. Moretti Trading. —M.L. ni’s more austere Cortevecchia Riserva. This selection abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 shows mild touches of tobacco and chocolate set over rich notes of red fruit and cherry. To maintain its fresh- Castellare di Castellina 2010 Chianti Russo 2010 Ceppitaio (Val di Cornia Su­ ness of fruit, this is partially aged in oak barrels, with the 88 Classico. This bright Chianti Classico offers 87 vereto). A blend of Sangiovese, , Col- rest kept in cement vats. Henriot Inc. —M.L. cherry, forest berry and blue flower notes, backed by orino, , Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this abv: 14.5% Price: $28 touches of wet earth and leather. The palate is smooth shows slightly muddled aromas of ripe cherry fruit and and firm, and it has a fresh, almost herbal finish. spice. The palate delivers polished tannins and mineral Principe Corsini 2008 Le Corti Cortevec­ Winebow. —M.L. nuances. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. 90 chia Riserva (Chianti Classico). The beau- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ty of this wine is that it shows seductive power and per- sonality. Nothing is over the top. Cortevecchia Riser- Castello di Volpaia 2010 Chianti Classi­ va doles out carefully measured aromas of forest fruit, 88 co. Notes of red berry, plum, spice, bay leaf, clove and nutmeg all show on the bouquet. This is bal-

20 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 anced, and offers freshness and a menthol note on the acidity will cut though fatty foods and cheeses. Freder- livers lively cherry and raspberry flavors. AHD Vintners. finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $32 abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Renieri 2009 Tenuta di Renieri (Chianti Villa Vignamaggio 2010 Terre di Prenz­ L’Oca Ciuca 2009 Chianti. There’s an al- 88 Classico). Wines from the Berardenga area in 86 ano (Chianti Classico). Terre di Prenzano 86 most effervescent feel to this Sangiovese-based the southern part of the appellation tend to show ex- is the kind of Chianti Classico that can be paired with wine, which has small percentages of Merlot and Col- tracted fruit flavors because of the clay soils and extra cheese-stuffed focaccia or . The fruit is simple orino in the blend. It is redolent of cherry cola, almond heat. Tenuta di Renieri reflects the region, and it of- and clean, and the wine’s bright acidity refreshes the paste, raspberry and toasted nut. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. fers bright cherry and chocolate notes. Michelangelo palate. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $20 Fattoria la Castellina 2009 Tommaso Bo­ Vino Nobile di Valiano 2008 Poggio Teo (Chianti Clas­ 85 jola (Chianti Classico). A burnt touch of 88 sico). Bright and fresh, with streamlined and roasted walnut appears at first, but it is quickly replaced Carpineto 2003 Vigneto Poggio Sant’­ compact fruit, Poggio Teo has the natural acidity to with tones of cherry and dried raspberry. This Sangio- Enrico (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). stand up to cheese- or cream-based dishes. It has light vese (blended with 10% Merlot) shows bitter fruit on 90 dustings of toasted nut and spice that give the palate This vineyard-designated Vino Nobile shows concen- the finish, which helps it pair with meat or cheese dish- added dimension. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. trated notes of prune, cassis, tobacco and leather. The es. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 mouthfeel is linear, and it has a dusty, almost gritty tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ture. The wine’s density feels good on the palate. Opici Villa Vignamaggio 2010 Gherardino Wines. —M.L. Villa Vignamaggio 2008 Castello di (Chianti Classico). Gherardino offers tight abv: 13.5% Price: $65 88 Spaltenna (Chianti Classico). This San- fruit nuances of forest berry, white cherry and cran- 84 giovese and Syrah blend opens with slightly burnt aro- berry, wrapped within generous tones of almond, wet Fattoria Del Cerro 2008 Riserva (Vino mas of tar and campfire, and it has background notes of earth and blue flower. It’s an easy-drinking Sangiovese, 88 Nobile di Montepulciano). This vintage of with bright acids on the finish. Bedford International. dried fruit and leather. It feels dry and a bit flat on the Vino Nobile shows lots of fresh acidity, but it has little —M.L. finish. Bedford International. —M.L. fruit to soften the cut. It feels slender and crisp, and it abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $18 shows a light berry flavor, veiled by mild spice and leath- er notes. Vias Imports. —M.L. Viticcio 2008 Lucius Riserva (Chianti abv: 13.5% Price: $40 88 Classico). This wine is based on Sangiovese, other Chianti with a tiny splash of Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s aged Fattoria Del Cerro 2011 Chianti Colli Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2008 for 12 months in old and new oak barrels. It shows a sa- 88 Senesi. A nice from the Chianti Colli 87 Incanto (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). vory side, with notes of candied fruit, prune, raisin and Senesi wine region, this Sangiovese-based wine is fresh This interpretation of Vino Nobile is aged for two years smoked meat. Drink now. Massanois Imports. —M.L. and bright, and it comes with berry aromas that are fol- in oak barrels, which lends it toasted aromas of spice abv: 13% Price: $40 lowed by blue flower and wet earth notes. Vias Imports. and tobacco, which sit behind the notes of bright cherry Best Buy. —M.L. and blue flower. D’Aquino Italian Importing Co. Inc. Viticcio 2008 Riserva (Chianti Classico). abv: 14% Price: $13 —M.L. 88 This estate makes two riservas. One bottling has abv: 13.5% Price: $14 a small addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, while this one Melini 2011 Governo All’Uso Toscano includes 5% Merlot. As a result, this shows added cher- (Chianti). This is a special wine that represents ry freshness, although it is a bit austere, and it concludes 88 an antique and almost nonexistent practice Brunello di with notes of leather, tobacco and cured meat. Massa- in Tuscany today. A portion of the Sangiovese grapes Montalcino nois Imports. —M.L. are air dried, and the wine is refermented on the dried abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Caparzo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. grapes. As result, it shows great intensity and dried aro- 92 This wine offers a full, bright bouquet that is Borgo Scopeto 2009 Chianti Classico. mas of cassis, prune and tobacco. Bright acidity pulls it packed with notes of cherry, chocolate, exotic spice, 87 Borgo Scopeto is a consistent producer with a together. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. leather, rum cake and a touch of cinnamon. The palate deft hand when it comes to the tricky Sangiovese grape. —M.L. shows smooth, fine tannins and a long, fruit-driven fin- This Chianti Classico shows clean lines and bright fruit abv: 14% Price: $13 ish. Vineyard Brands. —M.L. flavors, followed by mouth-cleansing acidity. Balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $45 and fresh. Vineyard Brands. —M.L. L’Oca Ciuca 2008 Riserva (Chianti). This abv: 13% Price: $20 87 reveals a piquant touch of vibrant fruit, followed Casisano Colombaio 2007 Brunello di by bright notes of cherry liqueur, cola, pressed violet 92 Montalcino. This bright Brunello shows ele- Marchesi Antinori 2009 Pèppoli (Chi­ and almond paste. It is not perfectly nipped and tucked, gance and finesse, and it offers pretty aromas of cherry, 87 anti Classico). Pèppoli is a tight and fresh but it does deliver personality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. blackberry, cassis, leather, spice and tobacco. The palate wine, with lively, one-dimensional fruit. It doles out abv: 13% Price: $18 is firm and compact, with a long finish that bears sweet- forest berry, cranberry and cassis notes, which are ac- tasting fruit flavors and silky tannins. W. J. Deutsch & companied by bright acids. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Melini 2011 Chianti. This Sangiovese shows Sons Blue Division. —M.L. —M.L. 87 pretty cherry and cassis tones and bright acid- abv: 14% Price: $49 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ity. Serve it with pizza topped with sausages and pep- pers. —M.L. Carpineto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Melini 2005 Terrarossa Riserva (Chianti abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 A study in balance, this wine has dark berry and 87 Classico). The great thing about Sangiovese is tobacco aromas that are elegant rather than overly in- that it is usually food friendly, even in its simplest inter- Grati 2011 Villa di Monte (Chianti). Bright, tense. The palate reveals polished tannins and firm fruit pretations. Terrarossa Riserva shows slender fruit, with 86 clean and straightforward, this Sangiovese, flavors. Opici Wines. —M.L. bright highlights of cherry and red currant. The ample which has small additions of Canaiolo and Colorino, de- abv: 14% Price: $60

WineMag.com | 21 Renieri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Fol- cheesy lasagnas or grilled meats. Supreme Wines & Fattoria Mantellassi 2010 Poggio Etrus­ 91 lowing in the footsteps of Tuscany’s best Brunel- Spirits. —M.L. 88 co (Morellino di Scansano). Morellino di los, this wine shows delicate tones of dried ginger, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Scansano is the perfect wine to pair with Italian dish- chopped rosemary, cola, leather, prune and dark berry. es like ricotta-filled in meat sauce or fettuccine Sangiovese is an acidic grape, and its freshness gives the Poggio Stenti 2009 Tribolo Sangiovese with porcini. It shows soft cherry and blackberry aro- palate some pop. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. 88 (Montecucco). A great pairing partner to piz- mas, plus bright acids and spicy endnotes. Saranty Im- abv: 14% Price: $50 zas or cheesy pastas, Tribolo has the high acidity and ports. —M.L. alcohol to wash your palate clean of fatty foods. It ends abv: NA Price: $19 Renieri 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Mon­ with bright notes of cherry, cassis and cola. Romano 91 talcino). Delicate and subdued, this wine Brands. —M.L. Fattoria Mantellassi 2007 Le Sentinelle shows forest fruit, savory spice and mild tobacco notes, abv: 15.5% Price: $27 88 Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). This backed by bright acidity and an extremely fine and pol- riserva shows tertiary aromas of leather and tobacco, ished mouthfeel. It’s a testament to the elegant and Collemassari 2010 Rigoleto (Montecuc­ behind notes of dried fruit and cassis. Also recognizable ethereal 2006 vintage. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. 87 co). This fresh and easy wine from the up-and- are bright tones of licorice and dried ginger that give abv: 14% Price: $65 coming Montecucco wine region shows bright cher- the wine its lively personality. Drink now. Saranty Im- ry and blueberry notes, with toasted nut and tobacco ports. —M.L. L’Oca Ciuca 2007 Brunello di Montalci­ touches. Pair it with meatloaf or breaded veal. Bedford abv: NA Price: $24 89 no. This Brunello starts on the timid side and International. —M.L. slowly reveals aromas of cherry, cassis, sweet spice, al- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 La Selva 2008 Colli dell’Uccellina (Morel­ mond paste, plus earthy tones of leather and button 88 lino di Scansano). The Uccellina Nature Re- mushroom. The palate feels fresh and tight, and the Pieve Vecchia 2008 Chorum Sangiovese serve is one of Italy’s most beautiful parks. In the spirit wine ends on spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. MHW, 87 (Montecucco). This pure expression of San- of this territory, La Selva is a spicy, sun-ripened wine, Ltd. —M.L. giovese delivers aromas of blackberry, plum and cassis, with black fruit and prune notes. The tannins of this or- abv: 14% Price: $27 plus accents of spice and tobacco. It is easygoing and ganic selection are smooth and soft. Euro Fine Wines. crisp, and it would pair well with grilled sausages or —M.L. Ruffino 2007 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello pork chops. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $26 89 di Montalcino). Touches of bitter toast and abv: 14% Price: $19 roasted almond sit at the top of this wine, followed by Mocali 2010 Morellino di Scansano. A smooth aromas of blackberry, prune, leather and tobac- 88 bright note of fresh cherry appears at the start, co. The palate feels tight and compact, and the finish Morellino di but it slowly gives way to plum and dark fruit notes, plus shows lingering tones of black licorice and spice. Icon Scansano spice and moist tobacco touches. This fresh wine would Estates. —M.L. pair beautifully with pepperoni pizza. Michael Skurnik abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Fattoria Le Pupille 2008 Poggio Valente Wines. —M.L. 92 Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). Wine- abv: NA Price: $18 Fonterenza 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. maker Elisabetta Geppetti is a beautiful and dynamic 87 Made from organically farmed fruit, this wine woman, with a firm grasp on Sangiovese and Scansa- Terenzi 2011 Morellino di Scansano. This has distinctive aromas of wild fennel and rosemary, no. Her riserva offers ripe fruit, wonderful softness and 88 is a lovely Morellino that delivers lively and easy backed by touches of forest berry, cured meat and bres- hints of wild brush and scrub oak in the background. aromas of cherry, blackberry and plum. As the wine is aola. Firm but silky tannins are followed by smoked Winebow. —M.L. aged only in stainless steel to preserve its freshness, the bacon and leather notes. Louis/Dressner Selections. abv: 14% Price: $50 integrity of the fruit is remarkable, and the mouthfeel —M.L. is bright and focused. Vintners Estate Direct Import- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Terenzi 2009 Riserva (Morellino di Scan­ ing. —M.L. 90 sano). From one of the most acclaimed up- abv: 14% Price: $17 and-coming in Italy, this wine delivers pure Montecucco Sangiovese nuances of red fruit, blue flower and wet Terre di Talamo 2010 Tempo (Morellino earth. It shows beautiful density and richness, and the di Scansano). Collemassari 2009 Riserva (Montecuc­ 88 This offers a base of bright finish offers loads of blackberry flavor. Vintners Estate cherry flavor, followed by light tobacco and spice tones. co). This pretty riserva from the up-and-com- 90 Direct Importing. —M.L. Pair this with grilled lamb chops or roasted pork rolls. ing Montecucco area of coastal Tuscany, which is locat- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. ed roughly between Bolgheri and Montalcino, shows abv: 14% Price: $16 deep nuances of cherry, blackberry and cassis, followed Terre di Talamo 2009 Tempo Riserva (Mo­ by notes of leather and tobacco. The palate is velvety 89 rellino di Scansano). A great choice for din- Fattoria Mantellassi 2010 Morellino di and fresh. Bedford International. —M.L. ners around the barbecue pit, this Morellino di Scan- Scansano. This wine is 85% Sangiovese, with abv: 14.5% Price: $25 87 sano delivers luscious berry and spice tones, plus the the balance Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. It bright acidity needed to pair with hearty meat dishes. Poggio Stenti 2007 Pian di Staffa Riser­ shows bright cherry and raspberry nuances, backed by Additional flavors of black cherry and chocolate are lay- white almond and warm, earth-like tones. Bright acid- va Sangiovese (Montecucco). This wine 90 ered over the lean, crisp mouthfeel. Michelangelo Im- ity keeps the palate refreshed. Saranty Imports. —M.L. shows pristine aromas of cherry and forest fruit, fol- ports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $15 lowed by well-etched tones of spice and tobacco. This abv: 14.5% Price: $NA has a focused, tight personality, with supple, polished Tenuta Pietramora 2008 Morellino di tannins. Romano Brands. —M.L. Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Morellino di Scansano. Fresh and tight, this Morellino of- abv: 15% Price: $43 87 88 Scansano. Easy and fresh, this wine shows a fers loads of cherry and blueberry flavors, followed by natural ability to pair with most pastas or meat-based Pieve Vecchia 2010 Chorum Sangiovese distant tones of leather and moist earth. There’s a sim- dishes. The finish is driven by smooth tannins and ple but genuine quality to the wine. CWS Wines Ltd. (Montecucco). Ripe cherry and blackberry 88 bright, berry-like freshness. Winebow. —M.L. —M.L. notes open the bouquet of this fresh Sangiovese. The abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 wine’s crisp, slender mouthfeel would pair well with

22 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 La Selva 2010 Morellino di Scansano. Terre di Talamo 2008 Per Cecco Petit Ver­ cherry, chocolate and lightly toasted almond notes on 85 This slender and streamlined Morellino offers 92 dot (Maremma). Aged for two years in oak the finish. Opici Wines. —M.L. light cherry and blackberry flavors, with a clean finish. barrels, this Petit Verdot is rich and concentrated, and abv: 14% Price: $15 Made from organic fruit, this selection would pair well it offers pretty aromas of blackberry, plum and bitter with grilled hamburgers or homemade lasagnas. Euro chocolate. Mild spice tones appear on the palate, but Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Amaranto Fine Wines. —M.L. they don’t overshadow the fruit. Michelangelo Imports. 88 Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). Chalky abv: 13.5% Price: $18 —M.L. and dry on the nose, with notes of mineral and forest abv: NA Price: $35 berry, this Sangiovese-based wine would make a perfect companion to Mediterranean dishes, meat appetizers or maremma toscana Sassotondo 2008 San Lorenzo Ciliegi­ pastas in rich, creamy sauces. Peter Warren Selections olo (Maremma). Made from the little-known & Planet Wine. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Baffonero 91 Ciliegiolo grape, this has notes of spice abv: 13% Price: $19 (Maremma Toscana). The folks at Rocca di 95 and tobacco that support the flavors of dark fruit, black- Frassinello set out to make one of the greatest expres- Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Carandelle berry and prune. The palate is soft, velvety and extra sions of Merlot from coastal Tuscany. This shows enor- Sangiovese (Maremma). Based on Sangio- smooth. Villa Italia. —M.L. 88 mous intensity and persistency on the palate, and the vese, with 10% Petit Verdot, this wine shows bright ber- abv: 14% Price: $58 overall experience is driven forward by bold flavors of ry flavors, followed by rosemary and spice notes. The fruit is clean and lively. The finish shows firm but pol- black fruit, cherry, black olive, chocolate and cinnamon. La Selva 2008 Prima Causa (Maremma ished tannins. Peter Warren Selections & Planet Wine. It has a rich, masculine structure, so drink it after 2018. Toscana). An organic blend of Cabernet Sau- 90 —M.L. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. vignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this offers enormous abv: 13.5% Price: $120 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 richness and concentration. The wine is soft and lush, and it exudes dark fruit flavors that are backed by touch- Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Petit Verdot Podere San Cristoforo 2009 Amaranto es of mineral and smoke. Euro Fine Wines. —M.L. (Maremma). This Petit Verdot delivers black- 88 Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). This 93 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 berry, cherry and cassis flavors, followed by rum cake, Sangiovese-based wine offers aromas of forest berry, leather and tobacco shadings. Firm tannins and bright cherry, red rose and rusty earth. The fresh acidity makes Mazzei 2010 Belguardo Serrata (Marem­ for a bright mouthfeel. Peter Warren Selections & Plan- acids give this wine aging potential. Peter Warren Selec- 90 ma Toscana). For full review see page 8. et Wine. —M.L. tions & Planet Wine. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $39 Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Le Sughere Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Poggio alla Rocca di Montemassi 2010 Red (Marem­ 90 di Frassinello (Maremma Toscana). This Guardia (Maremma Toscana). A blend of ma Toscana). Bordeaux consultant Denis 88 93 blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, Poggio Dubourdieu and winemaker Stefano Ferrante crafted offers excellent fruit and shapely oak tones of spice, alla Guardia is bright, clean and enjoyable, and it ex- this blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and chocolate and sweet tobacco. Vias Imports. —M.L. udes notes of cherry, blackberry and spice. It would pair Petit Verdot. It’s a bottle that raises the bar for the doz- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 seamlessly with red meat, chicken or pasta. Vias Im- ens of wines created by the Zonin family, the owners of ports. —M.L. this relatively new estate in Maremma. The result is rich Sassotondo 2011 Ciliegiolo (Maremma). abv: 14% Price: $20 and enticing, and it offers intense flavors of dark berry, 90 From the beautiful countryside around Pitigli- leather, tobacco and bright cherry. Zonin USA. —M.L. ano and in Tuscany’s southern Maremma, this Rocca di Frassinello 2009 Ornello abv: 14% Price: $30 expression of organically farmed Ciliegiolo shows com- 88 (Maremma Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese, plex notes of dark cherry, spice, humus and rosemary. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this shows sun- Principe Corsini 2007 Le Corti Marsili­ Elegance and soft tannins define the finish. Villa Italia. ripened fruit aromas of cherry, prune, blackberry and 92 ana (Maremma Toscana). This has delicious Editors’ Choice. —M.L. plum. Spicy toasted notes appear on the finish, giving red-fruit nuances that are backed by espresso, spice and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 the wine richness and softness. Vias Imports. —M.L. leather tones. There’s a meaty, savory quality that would abv: 13.5% Price: $17 pair well with breaded veal or lasagna. This is a blend of Fattoria Mantellassi 2007 Querciolaia Ali­ Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Le Focaie Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Henriot cante (Maremma). Alicante is making huge 89 Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). Impres- Inc. —M.L. inroads in Tuscany. In the warm climate of central Italy 88 sive work is quietly being performed at Rocca di Mon- abv: 14% Price: $56 this shows bright berry aromas, with touches of spice, temassi, the Zonin-owned property in southern Tuscany. leather, cola and menthol. The palate is bright, fresh Thanks to new investments and high-profile consultan- Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Red (Marem­ and cleansing. Saranty Imports. —M.L. cies, the estate’s new range of wines is showing nicely. 92 ma Toscana). You’ll love the way this wine abv: NA Price: $27 builds in intensity on the nose and on the palate. The Among them is this selection that offers a bright, spicy cherry flavor and a silky texture. Zonin USA. —M.L. blend is Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Terenzi 2011 Bramaluce (Maremma Tos­ abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and together the varieties deliver bright berry flavors 89 cana). Bramaluce is a blend of Sangiovese and and firm structure. Vias Imports. —M.L. Syrah that opens with bold aromas of ripe fruit, black- Sassotondo 2011 Tuforosso (Maremma). abv: 13.5% Price: $70 berry jam and prune. The smoky finish adds a sophisti- 88 Made from organic fruit, this wine offers lus- cated twist. Some of the grapes used in the blend are cious cherry and blackberry flavors that arrive in thick, Terenzi 2008 Francesca Romana (Marem­ air-dried on bamboo mats for added intensity. Vintners opulent layers. A veil of plush richness covers the palate. ma Toscana). 92 This blend of Sangiovese, Mer- Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. Villa Italia. Best Buy. —M.L. lot and Cabernet Sauvignon shows remarkable richness abv: 15% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $12 and smoothness. It delivers bright, fresh tones of black cherry and blackberry that are backed by touches of Carpineto 2011 Valcolomba Merlot Tenuta La Badiola 2010 Acquagiusta leather and tobacco. It’s velvety and taut, not too heavy 88 (Maremma Toscana). This plump, fruity ex- 87 (Maremma Toscana). This blend of Caber- or extracted. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. pression of Merlot from southern Tuscany shows great net Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah shows dark fruit tones abv: 15% Price: $NA intensity. It feels soft and velvety smooth, and it offers of cherry and plum, backed by a rich, soft mouthfeel.

WineMag.com | 23 This easygoing selection would pair well with roast is spot on and those smoky, slightly savory oak tones ate, which offers tight, polished tannins and long savory chicken or pork. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. are perfectly integrated. What ultimately sets the wine flavors. David Vincent Selection. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 apart is the smoothness and supple silkiness of the very abv: 15% Price: $140 long finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selec- La Selva 2008 Ciliegiolo (Maremma). tion. —M.L. Castello di Bossi 2009 Girolamo (Tos­ 86 Made from organically farmed Ciliegiolo (one abv: 15% Price: NA 94 cana). Having spent two years in oak barrel, of the great indigenous varieties of Tuscany), this opens this Merlot has a generous, yet elegant shape, and it de- with cherry and cured meat notes, and it shows a bright, Tua Rita 2010 Redigaffi (Toscana).An un- livers intensity and elegance. The bouquet offers tones tart quality on the finish. Euro Fine Wines. —M.L. 97 forgettable expression of Merlot from coastal of black cherry, spice, chocolate and rum cake, with del- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Tuscany, this ranks among the top-scoring icon wines of icate accents of licorice and dried herb. The mouthfeel the world. Smooth and intense, this selection’s integra- is smooth and rich. Winebow. —M.L. Fattoria Mantellassi 2010 Il Canneto San­ tion of fruit and oak-derived spice aromas is seamless. It abv: NA Price: $50 85 giovese (Maremma). Made from 100% San- feels silky yet firm, and it imparts beautiful cherry and giovese, this shows bright berry nuances that are simple chocolate flavors that last for many minutes. This is a Cavalli Tenuta degli Dei 2009 Red (Tos­ and clean. Notes of cherry and raspberry, plus a touch of keeper: Age it for 10 years or more. Winebow. Cellar 94 cana). The 2009 vintage was on the hot side bitter almond, are recognizable. The palate feels crisp Selection. —M.L. in most parts of Tuscany, but vintner Tommaso Cavalli and bright. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $350 has done a wonderful job of creating balance and har- abv: NA Price: $10 mony in this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot Tua Rita 2010 Giusto di Notri (Toscana). and Cabernet Franc. Plush black-fruit flavors are fol- 96 A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and lowed by tight, polished tannins. Hold this for 10 years toscana Cabernet Franc, this shows compelling intensity and or more. Sherbrooke Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Le Macchiole 2009 Paleo (Toscana). lovely layers of black fruit, ripe cherry, leather, tobacco, abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, Paleo opens black pepper and licorice. The complexity is impressive, 98 Duemani 2007 Cabernet Franc (Tos­ with concentrated, sweet-smelling aromas of plum, and so is the palate’s persistence and elegance. Hold for cana). Extracted and sophisticated, this bio­ cherry and cinnamon, which translate to the palate with 10 years or more. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 94 dynamic expression of Cabernet Franc opens with com- added notes of spice, leather and tobacco. This is bold, abv: 14.5% Price: $80 pelling aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry, rum cake, opulent and delicious, and it’s guaranteed to please. Brancaia 2009 Il Blu (Toscana). For full re- toasted nut, chocolate and tobacco. The rich, smooth Hold for 10 years or more. Domaine Select Wine Es- view see page 3. Cellar Selection. mouthfeel is velvety and long lasting. A.I. Selections. tates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 95 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $130 —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Castellare di Castellina 2010 Poggio Castello di Ama 2008 L’Apparita (Tos­ ai Merli (Toscana). Made from 100% Mer- Monteverro 2009 Tinata (Toscana). A cana). One of the greatest Italian , the 95 97 lot, this wine is immensely soft and plush, and it offers blend of Syrah and , this delivers pedigree of L’Apparita is evident the minute you raise 94 blackberry, cherry and chocolate tones that build in mo- Rhône Valley-like characteristics of ripe fruit, black the glass to your nose. Notes of cherry and blackberry­ mentum as the wine aerates in the glass. The mouthfeel pepper, smoked bacon and exotic spice. But it has an are seamlessly integrated with touches of oak spice, is velvety, rich and generous, and there’s an espresso Italian personality in the form of fresh acidity and Medi- leather, tobacco and dark chocolate. The finish is long note on the finish. Set this bottling aside for 10 years or terranean spice and blue flower notes. The finish is soft, and smooth, and there’s enough freshness and structure more. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. velvety and chocolaty. Opici Wines. —M.L. to allow this bottle to age for 10 years or more. The abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $130 Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $180 I Giusti e Zanza 2010 Perbruno (Tos­ Poggio al Tesoro 2009 Dedicato a Walter cana). Cabernet Franc (Toscana). Le Macchiole 2009 Messorio (Toscana). 95 The quality of fruit in this expression 94 Dark chocolate of Syrah is dark, plush, rich and opulent. The bouquet and espresso notes open the bouquet of this concen- Round, ripe and opulent, this landmark Merlot 97 offers notes of black cherry, prune, smoked bacon, to- trated Cabernet Franc. Round and soft, with power and offers lingering tones of ripe black fruit, tobacco and bacco, white pepper and clove. The tannins are luscious personality, this penetrating wine sits long on the palate, spice. Oak-driven aromas are still evident at this point, and firm, and there’s plenty of ripe fruit to keep the and it imparts bright fruit and spice notes with time. so give it another 10–15 years of cellaring. Lingering wine firmly fixed to the palate for many minutes. Vin- The tannins are tight, firm and polished. Drink after smoke and spice notes add to the long finish. Messo- dagra USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 2016. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. rio is one of the most complete and complex Italian in- abv: 14% Price: $33 abv: 15% Price: $75 terpretations of Merlot. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Monteverro 2009 Red (Toscana). This Tenuta Sette Ponti 2009 Orma (Toscana). abv: 14.5% Price: $315 95 wine bursts open with enormous aromatic in- 94 This bursts open with bright, intense notes of tensity, and it features notes of red cherry, spice, choc- blackberry, black cherry, moist pipe tobacco, tar, rum Le Macchiole 2009 Scrio (Toscana). Bold olate, leather and tobacco. This Bordeaux-style blend cake and licorice. The solid, decadent yet chewy mouth- and complex, this Syrah opens with intense, su- 97 offers richness, velvety tannins and a long finish. Hold feel as well as the impressive length make this a bottling perrich notes of chocolate fudge, maraschino cherry, to- for 10 years or more. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. to talk about. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. bacco, sweet spice and rum cake. Smooth, elegant and —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $85 persistent, this amazing expression boasts ripe fruit tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $175 nins. Drink after 2016. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Terre del Marchesato 2009 Marchesale Cellar Selection. —M.L. Tenuta Argentiera 2008 Giorgio Bar­ (Toscana). This Syrah is chracterized by its abv: 14.5% Price: $160 94 95 tholomäus (Toscana). This Merlot opens huge intensity and clean, ever-evolving bouquet that is Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2009 Masseto (To­ with savory aromas of spice and cured meat, followed comprised of ripe dark-fruit, roasted nut and white pep- by notes of blackberry preserves and black currant. It percorn notes. The palate delivers a long succession of scana). This edition of Italy’s iconic Masseto 97 shows some secondary aromas of leather and pipe to- sweet spice and savory tobacco flavors. Small Vineyards shows enormous softness and richness, driven forward bacco, plus lingering tones of rum cake, licorice and tar. LLC. —M.L. by beautiful black fruit, spice, chocolate, leather, tobac- There’s a fresh, almost menthol-like quality to the pal- abv: 14% Price: $80 co and prune. The balance and harmony of the wine

24 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Caiarossa 2007 Red (Toscana). This blend Agricola Querciabella 2008 Camartina out rich, generous and ripe fruit flavors and a deeply 93 of seven grapes (Cabernet Franc, Merlot and 92 (Toscana). This blend opens with ripe aro- textured, plush mouthfeel. Elegant notes of licorice and Sangiovese are present in the largest quantities) pres- mas that recall blueberry and strawberry jam, followed white pepper appear on the finish. Michelangelo Im- ents brawny, masculine aromas of leather, tobacco, by notes of spice, chocolate and moist tobacco. The ports. —M.L. cured meat and dark fruit. It feels on the ripe side, finish is soft and velvety, and it comes with a touch of abv: 14.5% Price: $30 with chewy prune and plum flavors that are backed by plush richness. This is complex and balanced. Maisons a textured, velvety finish. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L. Carpineto 2005 Farnito Cabernet Sauvi­ —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $150 91 gnon (Toscana). Made from 100% Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 net Sauvignon, this is bright and intense, and it shows Castello del Terriccio 2006 Lupicaia (Tos­ notes of dark fruit, spice, leather, prune, rum cake and Carpineto 2006 Farnito Cabernet Sauvi­ 92 cana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot tobacco, plus aged aromas of black licorice and cured 93 gnon (Toscana). Made from 100% Cabernet and Petit Verdot, this offers a beautiful bouquet that’s meat. Fine, dusty tannins mark the close. Opici Wines. Sauvignon, this bottling really struts its stuff in the ele- redolent of sweet cherry, candied fruit, Christmas spice —M.L. gant 2006 vintage. It opens with intense and finely pol- and potpourri. The palate shows a soft richness that’s abv: 13% Price: $65 balanced and lively without being cloying or heavy. ished aromas of berry, lead pencil, brimstone, leather —M.L. and black currant. It feels tight, crisp and firm on the Castello d’Albola 2009 Acciaiolo (Tos­ abv: 14% Price: $NA finish. Give it another 5–10 years of cellar aging. Opici 91 cana). A 65-35 blend of Sangiovese and Cab- Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. ernet Sauvignon, this is bold, opulent and elaborate. Castello di Bossi 2009 Corbaia (Tos­ This expression has perfumed notes of incense and ex- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 cana). 92 Too young to drink now, this blend of otic spice, lavished over tones of ripe cherry and black- Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon shows all the req- Casa di Terra 2009 Poggio Querciolo (To­ berry. Zonin USA. —M.L. uisites to be an age-worthy wine. The quality of the fruit scana). Dusty notes of brimstone and granite abv: 13.5% Price: $90 93 is rich, the acidity is bright, and the tannins will carry lift the bouquet of this concentrated blend of 85% Syrah the wine forward during its slow evolution. Winebow. Duemani 2010 Cifra (Toscana). and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Solid notes of dark cher- Luca Cellar Selection. —M.L. D’Attoma, the proprietor of Duemani, is a ry, blackberry, leather and tobacco bring up the rear. 91 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 strictly biodynamic winemaker and a leading figure in The complexity is outstanding, and this bottling will un- Italy’s movement. This wine shows pristine doubtedly enjoy a long cellar life. Drink after 2016. Su- Castello di Volpaia 2008 Balifico (Tos­ red fruit notes, backed by delicate, spicy tobacco and perior Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. cana). Balifico stands apart thanks to its dark, 92 leather touches. A.I. Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA rich appearance and generous aromas. The blend is abv: 14% Price: $NA Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, and together Castellare di Castellina 2008 I Sodi di these grapes offer notes of cherry and cassis, plus touch- Marchesi Torrigiani 2006 Guidaccio (Tos­ San Niccolò (Toscana). This is a historic es of dried rosemary and toasted spice. In contrast to 93 cana). A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cab- wine that consistently delivers an elegant interpreta- the boldness of the bouquet, the palate is fine, polished 91 ernet, this shows weight on the palate, and it offers vel- tion of Tuscan Sangiovese (blended with 15% Malvasia and long-lasting. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. vety tannins and bright fruit and spicy flavors. The aro- Nera). It opens with bright pulses of cherry and rasp- abv: 14% Price: $57 matic delivery is immediate and clean. Montcalm Wine berry, plus a dark tone of leather. The palate is silky, Importers. —M.L. fresh and long-lasting. Winebow. —M.L. Castiglion del Bosco 2008 Prima Pietra abv: 14% Price: $44 abv: 13.5% Price: $70 92 (Toscana). This is a blend of Bordeaux grapes sourced from the Riparbella Vineyard, which is located Piccini 2008 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). Fornacelle 2009 Foglio 38 (Toscana). This at 1,500 feet above sea level in Maremma. The prop- For full review see page 7. pure expression of Cabernet Franc opens with erty belongs to the Ferragamo fashion family. The tan- 91 93 abv: 14% Price: $25 beautiful aromas of black fruit and spice, followed by nins are velvety, firm and do a great job of supporting the bright flavors of black fruit and spice. USA Wine bright accents of eucalyptus and dried ginger. The bold Poggio al Tesoro 2010 Mediterra (Tos­ West. —M.L. fruit component will definitely appeal to those who ap- cana). A blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $77 91 preciate a generous and full style of wine. Drink after Sauvignon, this offers a powerful and rich opening that 2016. Tradizione Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Ceralti 2009 Sonoro (Toscana). Tobacco, exudes enduring tones of black spice, dark fruit, leather abv: 14.5% Price: $60 92 leather and graham cracker notes open the nose and tobacco. The palate has a round, chewy consistency, of this bold and chewy Merlot. There are flavors of dark with polished tannins and loads of concentrated fruit. I Giusti e Zanza 2009 Perbruno (Tos­ Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. cana). Perbruno opens with spicy notes of cherry, plum and cassis, followed by touches of tangy 93 spices. The tannins are round and soft, and the palate abv: 14% Price: $25 black pepper, clove and Christmas spice that make a has a dense, chewy quality that would pair with succu- bold and delicious first impression. After a few minutes, lent meat dishes. HB Wine Merchants. —M.L. Ruffino 2009 Modus (Toscana). This shows it delivers notes of black fruit, cherry, pipe tobacco and abv: 15% Price: $60 91 power and muscle, but the delivery is surpris- leather. Oak shadings give the wine a dense and rich fin- ingly soft and supple. The wine’s overall roundness is ish. Vindagra USA. —M.L. Monteverro 2009 Terra di Monteverro further reinforced by the irresistible tones of soft choco- abv: 14% Price: $33 92 (Toscana). A blend of Bordeaux-based grapes, late, cigar tobacco and black cherry, which lift straight Terra di Monteverro shows youthful aromas of cherry, out of the glass. Icon Estates. —M.L. Tua Rita 2010 Perlato del Bosco (Tos­ blackberry and cassis, backed by savory layers of spice, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 cana). 93 An oak-aged blend of Sangiovese and leather and tobacco. This is rich, smooth and power- Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine shows bold nuances of ful, and it will age for 10 years or more. Opici Wines. Terre del Marchesato 2009 Il Tarabuso blackberry and cherry, backed by tangy freshness and —M.L. 91 (Toscana). The clean, polished bouquet gives integrated oak spice. The wine is tangy and fresh, and it abv: 14% Price: $75 this Cabernet Sauvignon an austere and masculine per- delivers silky tannins, plus drying notes of tobacco and sonality. Beyond the bold aromas of black fruit, leather crushed granite. Winebow. —M.L. Renieri 2009 Regina di Renieri (Tos­ and tobacco are delicate notes of pressed violet and rum abv: 14% Price: $30 92 cana). This gorgeous expression of Syrah doles cake. The tannins are solid and firm, and a dusting of

WineMag.com | 25 mineral gives the palate extra dimension. Small Vine- lot. The lush, chewy and rich palate shows a lot of per- cherry-like sourness on the close. Majestic Imports. yards LLC. —M.L. sonality and pairing potential. Try drinking this with —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45 grilled steak with green peppercorn sauce. Tradizione abv: 14% Price: $18 Imports. —M.L. Villa Vignamaggio 2009 Obsession (Tos­ abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Pelofino (Tos­ 91 cana). Obsession delivers aromas of blackberry 88 cana). A food-friendly blend of Sangiovese, and plum, with pretty accents of spice and tobacco at Poggio Verrano 2009 Poggio Verrano 3 Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that the back. The palate is thick and dense, with tight tan- 90 (Toscana). For full review see page 8. Edi- shows easy but rich and intense fruit flavors of cher- nins and loads of dark fruit intensity. Bedford Interna- tors’ Choice. ry and blackberry, plus a subtle spice note. Winebow. tional. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20 —M.L. abv: NA Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Tua Rita 2011 Rosso dei Notri (Toscana). Aia Vecchia 2010 Lagone (Toscana). A 90 Based on 50% Sangiovese, but blended with an Mazzei 2011 Badiola (Toscana). A blend of 90 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab- assembly of international grapes, this is clean and pol- 88 Sangiovese and Merlot, this shows great balance ernet Franc, this opens with rich, concentrated aromas ished, and it offers bright notes of berry and cherry, plus and loads of food-friendly nuances of cherry, spice and of black fruit and milk chocolate. There are savory notes mild touches of nut and tobacco. The palate is supple chocolate. Bright acidity keeps the palate refreshed. of dark pipe tobacco, clove and cardamom. The palate is and velvety. Winebow. —M.L. Palm Bay International. —M.L. masculine and powerful, with firm tannins. Dalla Terra abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $15 Winery Direct. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Casa di Terra 2011 Lenaia (Toscana). A Mazzei 2010 Badiola (Toscana). Sangio- 89 blend of Merlot, Malbec and Caberent Franc, 88 vese and Merlot are blended to produce a har- Caiarossa 2007 Pergolaia (Toscana). this opens with enormous fruit purity, backed by lus- monious, balanced and bright wine that features cherry, 90 Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon cious tones of oak spice and tobacco. The wine’s two spice and toasted almond notes. The palate is soft and are blended to create a soft, luscious wine that’s load- sensations—sweet and savory—are well integrated. velvety, and a touch of richness marks the finish. Palm ed with bright cherry, rich chocolate and mocha flavors. Fresh acidity and firm structure complete the mouth- Bay International. —M.L. It would pair beautifully with steak in green-pepper feel. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 cream sauce. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Choice. —M.L. Renieri 2010 Invetro (Toscana). Invetro is abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Casaloste 2007 Inversus (Toscana). This 88 sealed with a reusable glass that helps to oak-aged Merlot, which includes 10% Sangio- lock in the overall freshness of the wine. The blend is Carpineto 2003 La Fornace Cabernet 89 vese for extra acidity and brightness, opens with spice, Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Sauvignon (Toscana). La Fornace is a dark, pretty fruit flavors are round, rich and velvety. Michel- 90 wood shop, toasted almond and ripe cherry notes. It savory expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that shows angelo Imports. —M.L. offers a chewy, succulent quality, and it finishes with a aged tertiary aromas of dark spice, cured meat and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 dark fruit flavor. Massanois Imports. —M.L. prune. It feels rich and dense, with a gritty quality to abv: 13.5% Price: $38 the tannins and long endnotes of bacon, black pepper Sada 2008 Baldoro (Toscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano from and leather. Drink now. Opici Wines. —M.L. Michele Satta 2007 Cavaliere (Toscana). 88 abv: 14% Price: $65 Castagneto Carducci in coastal Tuscany, this opens with Light garnet in color, this wine has a subtle bou- 89 hearty, extracted fruit and masculine aromas of smoked quet that is redolent of blue flower, almond paste, to- Diadema 2010 D’Amare (Toscana). This bacon, cassis, blackberry and exotic spice. A touch of bacco and even citrus. The palate feels tight and crisp. blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Syrah and Mer- sour fruit marks the finish. ID Beverage Group. —M.L. 90 Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. lot strikes a beautiful balance between its hearty black- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: NA Price: $60 fruit aromas and spicy oak-driven nuances. The palate shows persistence, and it comes with bright berry inten- Viticcio 2008 Prunaio (Toscana). Prunaio Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo sity. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. delivers aromas of prune, rum cake and cherry 2008 Tangano (Toscana). The Gaiole in 88 abv: NA Price: $75 88 liqueur. The fruit is dark and savory, and there’s an aged, Chianti area of Chianti Classico tends to produce some almost gritty quality to the mouthfeel. Massanois Im- Duemani 2008 Altrovino (Toscana). Bio- of the most traditional and pure expressions of Sangio- ports. —M.L. 90 dynamic winemaker Luca D’Attoma ages this vese, so Tangano is aged for 18 months in oak to add a abv: 13.5% Price: $55 50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in cement spice note and to soften the tannins. The wine opens vats. Delicate and feminine, this wine has notes of ber- with prune, dark fruit, leather and tobacco tones. Roa- Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo (Toscana). A ry, white cherry, bramble, and sweet spice. noke Valley Wine Company. —M.L. 87 mix of 70% Sangiovese and other international Bright tones of blueberry and cherry drive the refresh- abv: 14% Price: $37 red grapes, this would pair well with pizza or pasta with ing finish. A.I. Selections. —M.L. meat ragù. It shows flavors of cherry, forest berry, cola, abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Castello di Vicarello 2007 Carlo Bacche­ almond and a touch of mild tobacco. Opici Wines. Best 88 schi Berti (Toscana). Made from organical- Buy. —M.L. Fattoria Fibbiano 2009 L’Aspetto (Tos­ ly farmed fruit and aged for eight months in oak bar- abv: 13% Price: $12 90 cana). L’Aspetto is an oak-aged blend of San- rels, this dark, opulent blend is comprised of Cabernet giovese and Canaiolo that exhibits modern touches of Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus a tiny amount of Gualdo del Re 2010 Eliseo (Toscana). Indian spice and dark chocolate behind fruity tones of Petit Verdot. Ripe fruit, blackberry jam and cured meat 87 Firm and focused, this wine would make a great cherry and raspberry. Clean and bright, this wine has a flavors are enhanced by thickly textured tannins. Omni- companion to ravioli or with meat sauce and long mouthfeel and impressive persistency. Atlanta Im- wines Distribution. —M.L. grated cheese. It shows bright cherry and forest fruit provement Co. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA flavors, backed by fresh acidity and medium structure. abv: 14% Price: $37 Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Donna Olimpia 1898 2011 Tageto (Tos­ abv: 14% Price: $19 Fornacelle 2009 Erminia (Toscana). Dis- 88 cana). The fresh bouquet of this blend shows 90 tinctive notes of black cherry, chopped mint, feminine notes of blue flower and light spice. The aro- Il Valentiano 2009 Red (Toscana). This rosemary oil and eucalyptus open the nose of this Mer- mas are a bit raw at this stage, and there’s a touch of 87 wine opens with intense aromas of smoked ba-

26 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 con, leather, black fruit and prune. Dry, wood-derived L’Oca Ciuca 2009 The Drunken Goose it boasts berry and cherry flavors on the finish. Saranty tannins appear on the finish, and, overall, the wine is 84 (Toscana). A 40-30-30 blend of Sangiovese, Imports. —M.L. more spicy and savory than it is fruity. Vidalco Interna- Merlot and Syrah, this shows a touch of cola-like fizz abv: 12.5% Price: $20 tional, LLC. —M.L. that tickles the tongue. Its aromas include cherry, blue- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA berry and a touch of natural rubber. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. Tenuta del Buonamico 2010 Etichetta Blu abv: 12.5% Price: $11 87 (Montecarlo). A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, La Togata 2008 Azzurreta Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this opens with tones 87 (Toscana). Hailing from the Montalcino area of fruit, mild tobacco and spice. The wine’s measured of Tuscany, this Sangiovese-based wine offers crisp nu- other red wines intensity and bright acidity make it a good choice for ances of white cherry and cassis, backed by touches of cheesy pasta dishes. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. Rocca di Montemassi 2010 Sassabruna savory spice and bitter almond. The palate is clean, pol- —M.L. (Monteregio di Massa Marittima). It’s im- ished and silky. Panebianco. —M.L. 91 abv: 13% Price: $16 possible to resist mentioning the moniker as Sassabruna abv: 13.5% Price: $NA truly is one sassy wine. The blend is 80% Sangiovese, Renieri 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. The with Syrah and Merlot. Notes of black cherry, plum and Mocali 2010 Fossetti (Toscana). An 80-20 2010 vintage is hailed as one of the best ever for soft chocolate peel away one layer after the next. Zonin 85 blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, this shows the hilltop hamlet of Montalcino. This has touches of 87 USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. bright tones of cherry and blueberry, with a touch of worn leather and animal fur, backed by bright notes of abv: 14% Price: $25 bitter almond in the background. The wine’s freshness cherry and blackberry. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. would pair well with pasta with melted cheese. Michael abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Stefano Amerighi 2008 Alice (Cortona). Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Made from organic fruit, this Syrah opens with abv: NA Price: $15 91 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2011 intense aromas of chopped mint, ginger, cola, black Rosso di Montepulciano. Tight and lean, pepper and dried berry. The wine’s complexity is im- 85 Mocine 2007 S’Indora (Toscana). Pro- this Rosso di Montepulciano shows nuances of white pressive, and so is its freshness and persistence. Panebi- duced from the Foglia Tonda varietal, this is cherry and wild raspberry, followed by thorny acidity. 87 anco. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. aged for two years in oak barrels to produce a hearty, Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45 dense wine. It exudes aromas of ripe fruit, raspberry abv: 13% Price: $13 jam and pipe tobacco, and the palate feels generous and Marchesi 2006 Mazzaferrata (Colli velvety. The Trader. Best Buy. —M.L. della Toscana Centrale). Toasted notes of al- abv: 14% Price: $12 89 white burgundy mond and spice give this expression of Cabernet Sauvi- gnon momentum and density. Blackberry, moist earth Santa Cristina 2010 Le Maestrelle (Tos­ and tobacco aromas make up the generous bouquet. grand crus cana). This wine offers a lot of fruit, with sub- 87 Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. tle background notes of leather, wet earth and prune. Louis Jadot 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet. The abv: 13.5% Price: $44 It’s a fresh, easydrinking selection. Ste. Michelle Wine 97 vintage brings out the tension of this magisterial Estates. Best Buy. —M.L. Chardonnay, and it layers nervy acidity with fresh ap- Stefano Amerighi 2008 Syrah (Corto­ abv: 13% Price: $12 ple and peach flavors and intense minerality. It is poised 89 na). This Syrah reveals bright aromas of cherry and ready to develop over many years. Kobrand. Cellar and blackberry, backed by touches of cured meat and Casaloste 2009 Rosso Maniero (Tos­ Selection. —R.V. crushed white pepper. It has a unique personality, and cana). From the Marchesi d’Orsi di Villanoca abv: 13.5% Price: $330 86 the finish offers savory hints of earth and porcini mush- winemaking family, this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot room. Panebianco. —M.L. and offers tones of raw cherry and raspberry­ Louis Jadot 2010 Corton-Charlemagne. abv: 14% Price: $40 that give the wine a clean bouquet. The fresh, easy 96 Corton-Charlemagne has produced a powerful mouthfeel would pair well with pasta dishes. Massanois and concentrated wine. The massive, opulent feel is bal- Pratesi 2008 Il Circo Rosso Riserva (Car­ Imports. —M.L. anced by tropical fruits and acids, which are layered be- mignano). Carmignano is one of the most abv: 12.5% Price: $13 88 tween the toast and spice notes. It needs many years to overlooked appellations in Tuscany, but the work done mature. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. here with Cabernet Sauvignon and other grapes is Fattoria Fibbiano 2011 Le Pianette (Tos­ abv: 13.5% Price: $165 worth noting. This blend of 70% Sangiovese, with Cab- cana). Simple, clean and bright, Le Pianette is 86 ernet Sauvignon and Merlot, shows red currant, wet all about fresh fruit. The blend is 70-30 Sangiovese and Olivier Leflaive 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet. earth, leather and dried red-rose notes, backed by dry, Colorino, and it offers lively cherry and blueberry notes. 95 With his family based in Puligny-Montrachet, gritty tannins. Winebow. —M.L. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.L. Olivier Leflaive knows a thing or two about the grand abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 crus of his village. This Bâtard-Montrachet is intense- ly textured, concentrated and ripe, and it exudes equal Renzo 2008 Rosso di Toscana. This Sada 2010 Integolo (Toscana). This easy amounts of acids. Powerful yet elegant, the toast note is 50–50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sau- blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano 88 a subtle expression in this rich wine. This for long-term 86 vignon offers impressive balance. It delivers a medley and Alicante opens with a bright cherry note and aging. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. of red fruit, spice, leather, chocolate and tobacco notes. slightly bitter tones of spice and almond skin. The pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $375 The palate is soft and rich on the finish. Lauber Im- ate is smoothly textured and rich. ID Beverage Group. ports. —M.L. —M.L. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chevalier-Montra­ abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $18 95 chet. This wine is just starting out, which ex- plains the toast factor that currently dominates the nose Bellini 2009 Le Lodole (Rosso di Tos­ Fonterenza 2011 Pettirosso (Toscana). and palate. As it opens, the opulent, ripe fruit from this cana). Aged for one year in American oak, this There’s some volatility to the strawberry and 87 great vineyard shows through in the form of powerful, 84 blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon raspberry notes, followed by cherry and white almond and intense pineapple and apricot flavors that mingle in offers a perfumed quality that resembles Christmas accents. The palate feels thin, and the wine presents the tight texture. It will age for many years—start with spice and violet. It shows concentration and heft, and simple, clean lines. Louis/Dressner Selections. —M.L. at least six. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Se- abv: 12% Price: $22 lection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $500

WineMag.com | 27 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Corton-Char­ Quite closed at this stage, this is a full wine with tight of wood-derived vanilla. It’s a wine for aging. A French 95 lemagne. Corton-Charlemagne expresses the acidity and a crisp minerally texture. White flower and Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V. power of Chardonnay, rather than the subtlety. Given spice notes set off the lively character of this lemon- and abv: NA Price: $NA that, Olivier Leflaive’s version is finely nuanced, and its pineapple-flavored selection. This is worth keeping for weight comes as much from the rich white- and yellow- 4–5 years. Fine Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Charmes Premier fruit flavors as the tight structure. Like most grand crus, abv: NA Price: $NA 92 Cru (Meursault). This is a rich, rounded wine, this needs to age, so give it 5–6 years. Frederick Wild- yet it also expresses a tight texture and nervy acidity. man & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Louis Jadot 2010 Clos de la Croix de The toast influence is still dominating, although the abv: 13.5% Price: $170 91 Pierre (Pernand-Vergelesses). Only a small fruitiness of this ripe selection is also showing. With its portion of this vineyard is planted with Chardonnay, and weight and structure, this is a prime candidate to age for Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavillon it has produced a minerally wine that’s both crisp and several years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 94 (Corton-Charlemagne). Powerful and com- ripe. The acidity is dominant at this stage, which lends abv: 13.5% Price: $105 plex, this shows the density that comes from Chardon- the palate a juicy, peach- and citrus-like character. This nay sourced on the hill of Corton. The rich tropical-fruit wood-aged selection needs time. Kobrand. —R.V. Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles flavors are structured, which gives this wine strong ag- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 92 Vignes (Meursault). Tropical fruit aromas ing potential. Keep it for at least six years. A French lead to a peach- and apricot-flavored palate. It shows Paradox. —R.V. Domaine Champy 2010 Les Combottes old-vine concentration, spice from having aged in wood abv: NA Price: $NA 90 (Pernand-Vergelesses). Citrus and orange and a generous, velvet-like texture that is balanced by a zest flavors and bright acids characterize this wine. It’s a fine shot of lemony acidity. Age this for 4–5 years. Loos- Domaine Champy 2010 Corton-Char­ refreshing selection, and it has a tight texture and pear en Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 lemagne. Along with the natural power of juice flavor. Age it for 1–2 years. Fine Vines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $62 Corton-Charlemagne, this wine shows fragrant yellow- abv: NA Price: $NA fruit and pineapple flavors, rich texture and a steely Olivier Leflaive 2010 Sous le Dos d’Ane edge. The taut character and the orange zest and wood- Olivier Leflaive 2010 Pernand-Vergeless­ 91 Premier Cru (Meursault-Blagny). This is a derived flavors lend this selection crispness and aging 90 es. While Pernand-Vergelesses, which is locat- superrich, smooth wine. The acidity is what keeps the potential. Keep it for at least seven years. Fine Vines. ed in the shadow of the Corton-Charlemagne hill, is a ripe yellow-fruit flavors in order, and it has a lemon-like Cellar Selection. —R.V. lesser-known appellation, it produces some attractive, edge to the tropical mouthfeel. Age this for 3–4 years. abv: NA Price: $NA crisp wines such as this selection. Carefully balanced —R.V. wood aging enhances the pear and Golden Delicious abv: 14% Price: $NA Maison Jessiaume 2010 Corton-Char­ apple flavors, which come with a touch of minerality. 93 lemagne. The power of Corton-Charlemagne Textured and fruity on the finish. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Meursault. Rich yet is apparent in this dense, ripe wine. Rich and generous, abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 structured, this village wine from Meursault is this selection has tropical fruit flavors that are balanced made in a taut, tight style. Its acidity pushes through by citrus notes, and the wood influence acts as subtle the toast flavor, which creates a nervy texture. Ready to support. USA Wine West. —R.V. beaune drink in 1–2 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $173 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos des Mouches abv: 13% Price: $55 Premier Cru (Beaune). For full review see Olivier Leflaive 2010 Vaudésir Grand Cru 94 page 4. (Chablis). This is a wood-aged style of Cha- Olivier Leflaive 2010 Bouchères Premier 92 abv: 13.5% Price: $120 blis, but the toast has been applied discreetly. Rich, full 90 Cru (Meursault). Full, rich and round, this is packed with ripe yellow-fruit flavors, layered with toast. bodied and structured, this wine is full of ripe yellow- Louis Jadot 2010 Le Clos Blanc Grèves It bears a spice note, delicious acidity and a concentrat- fruit, spice and red apple flavors. Its acidity makes this a Premier Cru (Beaune). This is a round, rich 92 ed, open finish. Let it age for 2–3 years, but it is also juicy expression. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cel- and soft style of Chardonnay. It feels generous, and its enjoyable now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. lar Selection. —R.V. yellow fruit flavor pushes through the acidity. It slowly abv: 13% Price: $85 abv: 13.5% Price: $105 opens to reveal complex tropical-fruit notes, and it will develop further, so give it another four years. Kobrand. Jaffelin 2010 Meursault. Ripe and fruity, Cellar Selection. —R.V. this wine has a full, rich texture, with apple and côte de nuits abv: 13.5% Price: $75 88 peach flavors and a toast note. On the finish, there is a Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 En la rue de citrus-like character from the refreshing acidity. Ready Vergy (Morey-Saint-Denis). A pure-tasting Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavil­ 91 to drink, but it can be cellared for a year. Epic Wines. wine, this has a mineral character, tight, balanced acid- lon Clos des Mouches Premier Cru 91 —R.V. ity and lemon and white-fruit flavors. One of the rare (Beaune). Clos des Mouches is one of the top Beaune abv: 13% Price: $50 white wines from the Côte de Nuits, this has power and premier crus for both red and white wines. This rich selection offers wood-derived flavors that show through a toasty element. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. Louis Jadot 2010 Meursault. Ripe and full the racy mineral and yellow fruit notes. The finish is abv: NA Price: $NA bodied, this has rich plum and apricot flavors both rich and crisp, with mouth-watering acidity. A 88 and a generous mouthfeel. The acidity and structure Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Marsannay. French Paradox. —R.V. make this an intense selection. Drink now, but also age The fruit used to make this blend of Chardon- abv: NA Price: $NA 88 a few bottles for a couple of years. Kobrand. —R.V. nay and was sourced from a number of par- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 cels in Marsannay. It’s structured, fruity and perfumed, and it has citrusy acidity. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. meursault abv: NA Price: $NA Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavillon saint-aubin Les Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault). 93 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Dents du Chien Pre­ Toasty, fruity and opulent, this wine also reveals a tight pernand-vergelesses mier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Crisp and elegant in edge of grapefruit-like acidity and some steeliness. 92 feel, this has apricot and peach flavors that are balanced Domaine Champy 2010 En Caradeux Pineapple and apricot flavors are finished with a touch by the tight structure and the green-fruit-like acidity. 92 Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses).

28 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 The layers of toast have integrated with the ebullient ly structure are finely balanced, and its palate already fruit character and the taut, minerally finish. For aging Puligny-Montrachet shows richness. Full, fruity and textured, the wine’s 3–4 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Joseph Drouhin 2010 Folatières Premier touch of toast creeps into notice. This is worth aging abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). This has rich, for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. ripe fruit and signs of wood aging that are appropriate to abv: 13% Price: $75 Olivier Leflaive 2010 En Remilly Premier a young wine, but they will certainly become integrated. 91 Cru (Saint-Aubin). A high amount of toast What is so delicious about this selection is the fine bal- Olivier Leflaive 2010 Puligny-Montrachet. currently dominates this wine. Texturally, it is minerally, ance between its generous fruit and its tight, minerally 88 Twelve different parcels provided the grapes to make this Puligny-Montrachet. It’s rich and round, and citric and tight, and its grapefruit and toast notes min- acidity. Keep this for at least six years. Dreyfus, Ashby & it has a minerally structure and a touch of crisp acidity. gle with its intense acids. Because of its structure, this Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $102 The vintage has given a sense of shape to this white- needs to age for at least three years. —R.V. and yellow-fruit-flavored wine. The finish bears a lem- abv: 13% Price: $NA Louis Jadot 2010 Les Folatières Premier on-zest tang. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). abv: 13% Price: $65 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Sentier du Clou Pre­ 94 Always a splen- did wine, this 2010 does not disappoint. Complex, in- mier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Fruity and rounded, 91 tense and fruity, it has tangy fruit; a tight, minerally tex- this has attractive, citrus-like acidity that cuts through ture; and an intense, steely character. As the wine de- chassagne- the caramel and apricot flavors. There is a delicious, for- velops over many years, it will deepen and round out. montrachet ward orange-juice flavor that adds to the fresh feel of Kobrand. —R.V. Joseph Drouhin 2010 Marquis de Lagu­ the wine. It’s ready to drink, although it will also age. abv: 13.5% Price: $100 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 95 iche Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne- Montrachet). For full review see page 4. Cellar Se- abv: 13% Price: $55 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Folatières Pre­ lection. mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). One of the 94 abv: 13.5% Price: $114 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Charmois Premier best-known Puligny premier crus, Folatières has pro- Cru (Saint-Aubin). Smooth and round, this 90 duced a rich, opulent wine as it often does. In 2010, it Louis Jadot 2010 Domaine Duc de Ma­ wine has bright acidity, tempered by the toast and sweet feels more structured and more minerally than previous 94 genta Clos de la Chapelle Morgeot Pre­ apricot flavors. It has a structured core, and it finishes vintages. It is ripe and full bodied, and it is well suited to mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Clos de la with the acidity. Age this for 2–3 years. Frederick Wild- age for 4–5 years or more. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Chapelle surrounds an old chapel in the Morgeot Pre- man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. mier Cru. This 2010 is full, ripe and intense, with yellow abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $130 fruit and toast flavors that combine with tight acidity to create richness and structure. Complex, concentrated Olivier Leflaive 2010 Champ Gain Pre­ Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chatenière Premier and age worthy. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 90 Cru (Saint-Aubin). A wine that is currently 93 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Champ abv: 13.5% Price: $85 closed, this shows hints of bright green- and white-fruit Gain is on the upper slope of Puligny-Montrachet. This flavors. The toast influence and acidity cover this com- is a rich, toasty and ripe-fruited selection, full of yellow Olivier Leflaive 2010 Abbaye de Morgeot fruit, mango and clementine flavors. It also reveals the plex, potentially impressive selection. With its crisp fin- 93 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). minerality found in most wines from this village. Fred- ish and minerally texture, this has excellent aging po- Originally better known for its red wines, this vineyard erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. tential. —R.V. to the south of Chassagne-Montrachet now produces abv: 13.5% Price: $95 abv: 13% Price: $NA mainly white wines. This bottling is structured, firm and tight, and it promises a future that will always be serious Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Pucelles Pre­ Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Le Char­ and austere. Keep it for 4–5 years. Frederick Wildman 93 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Made & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. mois Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). A ripe, 89 from fruit sourced from vines close to Puligny’s grand abv: 13.5% Price: $95 apple-flavored wine, this has a round feel that is pierced crus, this has some of the same structure and dense by crisp, citrusy acidity. Made from grapes that were minerality as many of the village’s best wines. It’s vivid, Albert Bichot 2010 Vide Bourse Premier sourced from the hills above Puligny-Montrachet, this upfront and rich with boisterous fruitiness. The struc- 92 Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Close to the is a generous selection, with yellow fruit flavors that are ture will take many years to round out. Frederick Wild- white grand crus of Chassagne-Montrachet, this wine is balanced by the refreshing, crisp finish. Loosen Bros. man & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. structured and weighty, and it offers juicy apricot and USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $130 pear flavors. A citrus element cuts through the wood in- abv: 13% Price: $48 fluence and the steely texture, which brings freshness Olivier Leflaive 2010 Referts Premier to the ripe, rich mouthfeel. A French Paradox. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Saint-Aubin. This is a 92 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Round, opulent abv: NA Price: $NA 88 round, generous and ripe wine, with attractive and generous, this wine has yellow-fruit flavors that are yellow-fruit flavors and finely textured acids. A hint of paired with lime-like acidity, creating a balanced feel. Maison Champy 2010 Les Chênevottes wood gives an additional complexity. A French Paradox. The toast note is still showing strongly, and it needs a 92 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). —R.V. few years to settle. —R.V. Bright and fruity, this Chardonnay has citrus and peach abv: 13.5% Price: $NA flavors, with notes of almond, vanilla and spice that re- abv: NA Price: $NA flect the wood aging and make this a wine that’s crisp Jaffelin 2010 Puligny-Montrachet. This Jaffelin 2009 Sur Premier Cru and rich. It has a strong texture, and it needs 4–5 years wine has a fine definition of minerality that’s for its complexities to fully evolve. Fine Vines. —R.V. (Saint-Aubin). The village of Gamay, sup- 89 87 combined with tense structure. There is a hint of wood, abv: NA Price: $NA posed home of the grape used to make , is a flavor of fresh-peeled apple and a taut, steely edge. actually located in Saint-Aubin, near Beaune. This rich, Layers of acids mark the finish. Epic Wines. —R.V. Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Les Che­ round white wine demonstrates the full style of the ap- abv: 13% Price: $58 92 nevottes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Mon­ pellation, and it offers a minerally structure. For aging, trachet). A rich, spicy wine, this shows flavors of new but not for too long. Epic Wines. —R.V. Joseph Faiveley 2010 Puligny-Montra­ wood and ripe yellow fruit. The concentrated palate re- abv: 13% Price: $41 88 chet. This Chardonnay’s acidity and mineral- veals juicy pear and peach juice flavors and a tight, min-

WineMag.com | 29 erally structure. Dense vineyard planting and 35-year- Jaffelin 2010 Passetemps Premier Cru Olivier Leflaive 2010 Auxey-Duresses. old vines bring out extra intensity and complexity. Loos- 87 (Santenay). Round and soft, this warm wine 87 With only 100 acres of Chardonnay, Auxey- en Bros. USA. —R.V. from the southern end of the Côte de Beaune feels rich Duresses, which is located behind Meursault, is a small abv: 13.5% Price: $88 and generous. It has caramel and yellow fruit flavors, player in white Burgundy production. Yet the village and its crisp acidity will ensure that it will remain fresh creates distinctive wines that are rich and taut. This Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chassagne-Montra­ and fruity. Epic Wines. —R.V. 2010 is structured and firm, and it has a fruity, crisp 91 chet. Initially smooth and rounded, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $41 apple-skin flavor. It could age well for 1–2 years. —R.V. opens to reveal a structured character. A note of tangy abv: 13% Price: $NA lemon zest cuts through the pear and quince flavors, which creates a balance between richness and taut- other côte de ness. Ready to drink in 1–2 years. Frederick Wildman beaune wines rully & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully La abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Domaine de Bellene 2010 Savigny-lès- Pucelle Cuvée Comte R. de Ternay Pre­ Beaune. This wine is concentrated and full in 92 91 mier Cru (Rully). This wine has a tight structure that’s Olivier Leflaive 2010 Clos Saint-Marc the mouth, and it bears a minerally texture and intense laced with wood. The complex fruit is still settling into Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). acidity. It’s packed with flavors of sweet peach, lime, 91 the structure, promising richness. Age this for at least An elegant yet ripe wine, this comes laced with citrus ripe Rocha pear and spice from the wood maturation. five years. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection. acidity, and the yellow fruit and melon flavors give it a This promises to age for several years. Loosen Bros. —R.V. sense of richness. It’s lively and crisp, and it has a toasty USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 base. Age it for 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, abv: 13% Price: $60 Ltd. —R.V. Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully La abv: 13.5% Price: $90 Louis Jadot 2010 Le Clou d’Orge (La­ Bressande Cuvée Comte R. de Ternay doix). Better known for its red wines, Ladoix’s 91 89 Premier Cru (Rully). Full bodied, rich and ripe, this Maison Champy 2010 Chassagne-Mon­ whites are a rarity. This wine is made from fruit sourced wine has a minerally texture and is loaded with tropical trachet. This Chardonnay’s lemon and apricot from vines that are close to the Corton hill. It is steely, 90 fruit, citrus and apricot flavors. It’s a serious selection flavors come wrapped in a tight texture. At the same minerally and crisp, with a wood-influenced character. that needs some aging. This is one of a series of single- time, it has a full, ripe mouthfeel, with wood-derived With its structure, this needs at least three years of ag- vineyard wines from the Comte de Ternay estate. Bois- flavors that bring out an extra dimension of richness and ing. Kobrand. —R.V. set Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ageability. Fine Vines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: NA Price: $36 abv: NA Price: $NA Albert Bichot 2010 Savigny-lès-Beaune. Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully Olivier Leflaive 2010 Grande Montagne This is a textured, dense and concentrated se- 88 Saint Jacques Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rul­ Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). lection that has notes of white fruits and white flowers. 91 90 ly). There is a fine mineral-driven backbone to this ripe, This is a tight, currently closed wine, but it has the po- It’s a wine for medium-term aging. A French Paradox. concentrated and fruity wine, which gives its dense apri- tential to exude intense fruit and balancing acidity. It —R.V. cot and pineapple flavors great structure. It needs to age has weight and a taut, minerally texture, and the finish abv: NA Price: $NA for at least four years. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. is fresh and lively. It will age over the medium term. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 —R.V. Maison Champy 2010 Auxey-Duresses. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Like a baby Meursault, this is a a rich, plump 88 Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully wine that’s full of yellow fruit. The acidity is soft, yet Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rully). Soft and ripe, Jaffelin 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet. A lively enough to give the palate an attractive, citrus-like 90 this wine has juicy pineapple and pear flavors. And with soft wine without real definition, it has an attrac- edge. The finish brings out cinnamon, vanilla and warm 86 its tension between richness and steeliness, this could tive fruity character, but it’s missing the firm structure of fruit flavors. Fine Vines. —R.V. certainly age. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. the appellation. With its vanilla and apricot flavors, this abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $30 ripe Chardonnay is ready to drink. Epic Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Saint-Romain. This Antonin Rodet 2011 Château de Rully wine has a crisp, steely texture. The apple and 88 Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rully). citrus flavors and the wood underlay make this a food- 89 This has apri- Santenay friendly selection. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. cot and pear flavors, plus a nutmeg hint and intense, re- —R.V. freshing acidity. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Charmes 12.5% $35 abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: Price: 91 Dessus (Santenay). Smooth and round, this wine is made from grapes that were sourced from the Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Mercey Antonin Rodet 2011 Château de Rully southernmost vineyards of the Côte d’Or. It has a soft, Chardonnay (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes 89 Saint Jacques Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rul­ rich and fruity character that shows citrus and white 87 ly). de Beaune). This wine has a bright, crisp character Aromatic and ripe, this Chardonnay has creamy peach flavors, plus a pineapple hint. As it opens, it be- that is reminiscent of Chablis. It has refreshing lemon pear and apricot flavors, plus touches of wood and a comes opulent and full bodied. Loosen Bros. USA. and apple flavors, and it’s ready to drink. Boisset Family warm, rich mouthfeel. It has a soft character, a hint of —R.V. Estates. —R.V. acidity and lemony freshness. Boisset Family Estates. abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: NA Price: $23 —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Gravières Pre­ Maison Champy 2010 Saint-Romain. A mier Cru (Santenay). Santenay, which is lo- Olivier Leflaive 2010 Vauvry Premier Cru 90 textured and minerally wine, this is wine has cated toward the south of the Côte de Beaune, is known 87 (Rully). plenty of citrus flavor. It is fruity and crisp, and it offers 89 Made from fruit that’s sourced from for its wines that are accessible and early maturing. This a touch of vanilla and lively acidity on the finish. Fine the northern Côte Chalonnaise, this structured wine ripe selection bursts with flavors of yellow fruit and cit- Vines. —R.V. shows crisp acids and bright yellow fruits, with a sense rus, touched by wood influence. Drink it over the next abv: NA Price: $NA of richness that comes from the vanilla and apricot fla- year, or age it for 3–4. USA Wine West. —R.V. vors. The finish is laced with refreshing acidity. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

30 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 texture is quite dominant, let this age for two years to ish, there is a tang of orange zest. Becky Wasserman Se- other côte allow the opulent fruit to surface. Total Wine & More. lections. —R.V. chalonnaise wines —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Premier abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Cave de l’ 2009 Les Beluses (Mâ­ Cru (Montagny). A delicious shot of citrusy 89 Jaffelin 2010 Pouilly-Fuissé. con-Chardonnay). This is a fruity wine that acidity makes this a wine of great freshness. At the same This Char- 85 has light acidity and touches of vanilla and pineapple. It time, the wood-derived flavors add some richness and a 86 donnay is minerally and dry, and it has taut acid- is round, rich and soft, and there is a fine tang of orange spice note. Let this intense effort age for another couple ity and structured quince fruit. The finish is crisp. Epic zest on the finish. Viceroy Imports. —R.V. of years. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $32 abv: 13% Price: $30 Domaine des Rochers 2010 Mâcon Olivier Leflaive 2010 Premier Cru (Mon­ Chaintré. This is a lemon-scented wine that tagny). Montagny produces wines that have Mâcon-Villages 85 88 shows a hint of wood influence. It’s crisp and mineral in a warm, southern feel. This full-bodied wine is packed Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2011 Clos de character, and it has a bitter almond flavor and a touch with flavors of yellow fruits, and it offers ripe acidity and la Bressande (Mâcon-Villages). A fresh, of pineapple-like acidity. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. a touch of toast. The finish shows a limestone-like min- 86 lemon-scented wine, this has fine minerality and youth- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA erality. —R.V. ful acidity that needs some months to become round. abv: 13% Price: $NA Vin de Garde Wines. —R.V. Domaine Luquet 2011 Vers les Monts abv: 13% Price: $NA 85 (Saint-Véran). This selection is fruity and re- Pouilly-Fuissé freshing, yet it has a full body and a ripe character. Taut Antonin Rodet 2011 Mâcon-Villages. and tangy on the finish, this wine can age for another Domaine Ferret 2010 Tête de Cru Les 85 Ripe yellow-fruit flavors and a soft texture are 6–9 months to allow the structure to soften. Total Wine 91 Perrières (Pouilly-Fuissé). Made from fruit the hallmarks of this wine. Full in the mouth, this has a & More. —R.V. that was sourced from a 2.4-acre plot on the steep slopes warm southern Burgundy feel. It offers touches of spice abv: 13% Price: $17 of Vergisson, this is an intense, ripe, wood-aged wine. and green herbs, and it has orange-zest-like acidity on The acidity is allied to the spice and yellow fruit flavors. Jaffelin 2010 Les Villages de Jaffelin the finish. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. A concentrated wine of great purity, this is worth aging (Mâcon-Péronne). A ripe aroma of mango abv: NA Price: $15 85 for several years. Kobrand. —R.V. shows in this tropical-fruit-driven wine. It has a rich, abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Barton & Guestier 2011 Mâcon-Villages. round and soft feel, with a slightly minerally texture. Warm and round, this Mâcon has ripe melon The acidity provides freshness. Epic Wines. —R.V. Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2011 Quin­ 85 abv: 13% Price: $20 90 tessence (Pouilly-Fuissé). Rich and smooth, and peach flavors that come with a citrusy edge. It has this wood-aged wine shows great weight and concentra- an attractive floral character that brings out the light Domaine Luquet 2011 Mâcon-Fuissé. tion. A touch of minerality provides a counterbalance minerality and acidity on the finish. Barton & Guestier 84 Initially closed, this wine soon reveals a crisp, to the ripe lemon and apricot flavors. It needs a couple USA. —R.V. zesty texture and flavors of citrus and green apple. With of years to fully reveal its structured side. Vin de Garde abv: 12.5% Price: $15 its minerally character, Mâcon-Fuissé is a sort of poor Wines. —R.V. man’s Pouilly-Fuissé, although it often shows more soft- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine Luquet 2011 Clos de Conde­ ness. Total Wine & More. —R.V. 85 mine (Mâcon-Villages). This wine has lemon abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Domaine Luquet 2010 Vieilles Vignes peel and apple skin flavors that come through the firm, 88 (Pouilly-Fuissé). This is a rich, wood-aged tangy structure. It has richness and the potential to age single-vineyard selection that has a balanced toast el- for the medium term. The finish is full of refreshing chablis ement, crisp fruit and a taut texture. Acidity currently acidity. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Domaine Charly Nicolle 2011 Les Four­ drives this wine, so give it another year to come into full abv: 13% Price: $15 focus. Total Wine & More. —R.V. 91 neaux Premier Cru (Chablis). Les Four- neaux is one of the smallest premier crus. Rich and abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Domaine Luquet 2011 Les Mulots (Mâ­ balanced, this wine is full of pear and apricot flavors. con-Villages). Soft and simple, this has a pear Antonin Rodet 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé. This 83 It combines a minerally edge with a generous structure flavor, a touch of vanilla and a creamy texture, plus crisp, is a big, fat Chardonnay—at least in Burgundy and fruitiness. Delicious now, but keep it for 3–4 years. 87 lemon-zest-like acidity on the finish. Drink this now. To- terms. It has a ripe yellow-fruit flavor, a rich texture and Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. tal Wine & More. —R.V. soft acidity. Subtle wood influence gives further round- abv: 13% Price: $39 abv: 13% Price: $15 ness to this almost pebble-smooth wine. It’s delicious now, and it’s likely to develop quickly. Boisset Family Garnier et Fils 2010 Mont de Milieu Pre­ Estates. —R.V. 91 mier Cru (Chablis). Fragrant and generous, abv: NA Price: $25 other mâconnais this ripe wine shows its fruitiness as easily as it reveals its wines structure. Its ripe, full-bodied character remains tightly Domaine Ferret 2010 Sous Vergisson textured, which makes it an age-worthy selection. Serge Bret Brothers 2010 Climat en Combe (Pouilly-Fuissé). This is a fruity wine, with Doré Selections. —R.V. 87 (Saint-Véran). upfront peach and apricot flavors. It has bright acidi- 89 This is a rich, fruity wine that abv: 13% Price: $60 ty and just a hint of wood. Produced for the first time has a definite minerally character. The chalky texture is by Ferret, this selection is rich, open and generous, al- laced with lemon and apricot flavors, leading to a crisp, Garnier et Fils 2008 Grains Dorées (Cha­ though the acidity is never left behind. Kobrand. —R.V. tight finish. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V. 91 blis). Aged for 30 months in wood, this Chablis abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $31 has a distinctively ripe and rich character that puts it closer to Meursault in style. Only on the finish, through Domaine Luquet 2011 Bois Seguin Bret Brothers 2010 Climat la Roche (Mâ­ all of the toast and fruit flavors, does the steely acidity 87 (Pouilly-Fuissé). This has a minerally, tense 88 con). Round and fruity in character, this has emerge. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. structure as well as green fruit and citrus flavors. As the initial freshness and ripe yellow-fruit flavors. On the fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $45

WineMag.com | 31 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Fourchaume Pre­ Domaine Charly Nicolle 2011 Cuvée An­ Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Chardonnay 91 mier Cru (Chablis). While this wine has the 87 cestrum (Chablis). Light and fruity, this has 86 (Bourgogne). This is a fragrant, floral wine, crispness of Chablis, it also has weight and concentra- flavors of creamed apple and ripe Williams pear. The with a smooth touch of vanilla. It has a fruity, ripe feel, tion. The bright green-apple flavor is underpinned by a wine is crisp and tangy, and it’s shot through with lemon and it shows fresh, crisp, apple-like acidity. This is a sense of minerality. Nervy, tense yet fruity, this can age zest and acidity. Ready to drink in one year. Serge Doré ready-to-drink, balanced Chardonnay. USA Wine West. for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 abv: 12.5% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $27

Domaine Charly Nicolle 2011 Mont de Garnier et Fils 2011 Chablis. While this is Joseph Faiveley 2010 Chardonnay 90 Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). With its up- 87 a fruity Chablis, it also shows some of the steeli- 86 (Bourgogne). There is a touch of spice on this front, ripe apple and pear flavors, this wine is immedi- ness for which the appellation is known. It has ripe lem- wine, along with flavors of crisp citrus and green apple. ately attractive. Behind the fruitiness, there is a firm, on and pineapple flavors that lend the wine an open Fruity and bright, this is already drinkable, and it fin- structured character of minerality and a steely edge, character. It’s ready to drink, but it could be aged for ishes with a tang of lemon zest. Frederick Wildman & which makes this a Chardonnay to age for 3–4 years. one year. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $39 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Deux Rives Olivier Leflaive 2010 Aligoté (Bour­ Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Les Cham­ 87 (Chablis). This is made using a selection of 86 gogne). A crisp, almost herbaceous wine, this 90 préaux Fourchaume Premier Cru (Cha­ fruit that’s sourced from both banks of the Serein River. is refreshing, like a breath of fresh air. It’s lively, light blis). The most taut and steely of the wines made by It’s a properly crisp Chardonnay, and it offers a white and fruity, and it has green- and white-fruit flavors that Guillaume Vrignaud from Fourchaume fruit, this offers fruit flavor and a bright, lively finish. Frederick Wild- combine well. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, a tight, minerally texture, lively acidity and an apple- man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. and grapefruit-like crispness. With its structure, this has abv: 12% Price: $35 abv: 12% Price: $23 the potential to age for 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selec- tions. —R.V. Jacques Bourguignon 2011 Chablis. Antonin Rodet 2011 A. Rodet Chardon­ abv: 12.5% Price: $45 85 Made in the buttery style, this is a vanilla- and 85 nay (Bourgogne). Soft, light and fruity, this toast-flavored Chablis. Tropical fruits dominate the wine is already approachable. It is an apple- and apri- Garnier et Fils 2011 Montmains Premier ripe, fruity palate, and there’s not a touch of minerality cot-flavored Chardonnay, with just a tang of lemon zest 90 Cru (Chablis). Ripe and creamy in texture, or steeliness in sight. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. that lends the finish some bite. Boisset Family Estates. this wine offers mango and pineapple flavors and crisp, abv: 12.5% Price: $17 —R.V. citrusy acidity. It’s an age-worthy selection, with miner- abv: NA Price: $18 ality and a fine texture. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Chablis. Soft and abv: 12.5% Price: $60 84 ripe, this Chablis has white fruit and citrus fla- Chateau de Pizay 2011 Chardonnay vors. The palate reveals a yeasty character that intrudes 85 (Bourgogne). This is a light, bright white- Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Les Vaupulans on the fresh fruit. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. flower-perfumed wine, and it offers fresh, apple-like 89 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Made abv: 12.5% Price: $40 acidity, a crisp texture and an edge of lemon zest. For from fruit sourced from a parcel in Fourchaume, this drinking soon. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. fruity wine offers green fruit flavors that are cut by abv: 12.5% Price: $15 the minerally texture. It is crisp, taut and nervy, and it bourgogne Joseph Drouhin 2011 Laforet Chardon­ needs a few years to show its best. Serge Doré Selec- Simon Bize 2010 Les Champlains (Bour­ nay (Bourgogne). This white Burgundy is tions. —R.V. gogne). This has a delicate citrus character 85 89 crisp, rich and lemony, and it comes with touches of va- abv: 13% Price: $65 and a tangy, minerally texture. The ripe fruits are bal- nilla and apricot and taut acidity on the finish. Ready to anced by acidity. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V. Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Vieilles Vignes abv: 12.5% Price: $26 drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 89 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Full abv: NA Price: $13 bodied and ripe, this Chardonnay is packed with yellow Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Sétilles Char­ fruit and pear flavors, and it shows the steely, mineral- Vignes Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Smooth 88 donnay (Bourgogne). A light and fruity ly character typical of Chablis. It has a youthful bright- and rich, this wine is made from fruit that’s sourced 85 Chardonnay, this has a softness that’s akin to creamed ness on the finish, and it will fill out over the next few from 65-year-old vines. It has fresh acidity that gives a apple and ripe melon. The orange-zest-like acidity adds months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. bright quality to the ripe fruit. For an entry-level Bour- to the feel of this open, ready-to-drink wine. Frederick abv: 13% Price: $80 gogne, this has complexity and weight. Loosen Bros. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. USA. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Montée de Tonnerre abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $22 89 Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a ripe wine, Jaffelin 2010 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin with flavors of apple, pear, caramel and a touch of min- Albert Bichot 2010 Secret de Famille Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Round and soft- eral that is subordinate to the fruit. It is lightly toasty, Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is full of cit- 84 86 ly fruity, this white Burgundy comes with a hint of va- and the acidity is crisp. —R.V. rus flavors, with toast and pineapple touches. It’s attrac- nilla. With its ripe apple, lime and yellow fruit flavors, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tive, crisp and ready to drink. A French Paradox. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA it’s instantly drinkable. The finish is touched by acidity. Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Fourchaume Epic Wines. —R.V. 88 Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s fresh, Antonin Rodet 2010 A. Rodet Chardon­ abv: 13% Price: $23 fragrant fruit comes with a steely blade of acidity and 86 nay (Bourgogne). There is warmth to this minerality. It is just beginning to show its concentration, fruity, ripe wine. It shows great balance between its in- and the citrus and white peach flavors are starting to de- tense acids and fruitiness, making it delicious and ready Crémant de velop. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. to drink. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. Bourgogne abv: 13% Price: $60 NA $18 abv: Price: Domaine du Vissoux NV Blanc de Blancs 84 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). Light and

32 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 crisp, this wine has a smooth apple flavor and soft acid- from grapes sourced from the upper portion of the acidity. With its dense texture, it’s a wine for the long ity. It is fragrant and fruity, with some sweetness on the Chambertin vineyard, this selection also has a mineral haul. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. finish. It would make for a good apéritif. Weygandt- element, and it promises considerable aging potential. abv: 13.5% Price: $225 Metzler. —R.V. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Maison Champy 2010 Charmes-Cham­ 93 bertin. Champy only makes two barrels of this Domaine Faiveley 2010 Chambertin Clos wine. It’s finely concentrated, and it has solid tannins red burgundy 95 de Bèze. One of the jewels of Domaine Faively, and rich, powerful black-plum and cherry flavors. Keep this wine is huge, rich and structured. It has power and it for at least 8–9 years. Fine Vines. —R.V. grand crus concentrated tannins, and the hints of wood aging are abv: NA Price: $NA apparent. The ripeness of the fruit and the serious tex- Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Bonnes- Maison Jessiaume 2010 Chambertin. ture promise long-term aging. Frederick Wildman & 97 Mares. This is a big, dense wine that has great This bears a ripe, fruity character as well as Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 generosity. It’s ripe, full bodied and opulent now, and it enormous structure and power. It offers a black plum abv: 13.5% Price: $385 offers concentration and depth of flavor. The fruit used flavor, a dense texture and concentration. The firm, dry to make this wine was sourced from 60-year-old vines tannins and the hint of wood aging promise that this Albert Bichot 2010 Charmes-Chambertin. located near Clos de Tart. It has considerable aging po- has a long future. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. This wine’s concentrated tannins mingle with its tential, so cellar this for 8–10 years. Martin Scott Wines. 94 —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. raspberry, blueberry and rich plum flavors. While it is abv: 13% Price: $270 abv: NA Price: $NA powerful and structured, it also has a fine sense of ele­ gance, a combination that will allow this wine to age for Maison Jessiaume 2010 Clos de Vou­ Louis Jadot 2010 Bonnes-Mares. Locat- decades. A French Paradox. —R.V. 93 geot. This opulent, rich Clos de Vougeot could 97 ed in the northern end of Chambolle-Musigny, abv: NA Price: $NA perhaps use firmer tannins, but it has ripe berry and Bonnes Mares shows much of the same structure as cherry flavors. It has a solid core that is enveloped by Morey-Saint-Denis. This 2010 has so much weight and Albert Bichot 2010 Latricières-Cham­ the generous fruit. Age this for six years and more. USA concentration, and it bears red fruit flavors and bright 94 bertin. A powerful wine that’s made from Wine West. —R.V. acids. It has a tannic side as well, which promises that fruit sourced from the southern neighbor of the great abv: 13% Price: $191 this wine will age. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Chambertin grand cru, this is rich, deep and complex. A abv: 13% Price: $300 smoky note is followed by black fruits, dark tannins and Domaine Champy 2010 Corton-Rognet. a sense of richness and structure. It has great weight, Currently dominated by tannins, this wine is Louis Jadot 2010 Chapelle-Chambertin. 92 and it will need many years of aging. A French Para- rich and structured, and it demonstrates the potential The nose demonstrates that this is obviously a 97 dox. —R.V. of its huge fruit and weight. The final note of this age- wood-aged wine. The palate has a huge, dense struc- abv: NA Price: $NA worthy wine is smokiness from wood aging. Fine Vines. ture, and the wood-derived tannins are buried within Cellar Selection. —R.V. its powerful fruit and acidity. For those prepared to wait Albert Bichot 2010 Clos des Maréchaudes abv: NA Price: $NA for 7–8 years, this has the potential to become rich and (Corton). Bichot owns part of this small grand opulant. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 L. Tramier & Fils 2009 Collection (Cor­ cru portion of Maréchaudes as well as the walled sec- abv: 13.5% Price: $260 ton). This is a closed, smoke-filled wine, and its tion of the premier cru section. This is dense, solid and 92 tannins and toasty wood character currently dominate, Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Chambertin powerful, and it demonstrates the dark character of which gives it a bitter edge. It has richness, with hints of Clos de Bèze. Made from fruit that was the clay soil. A concentrated black-plum flavor is sup- 96 juicy fruit that sit under the structure. Give it at least six sourced from old vines, some of which were planted in ported by firm, dry tannins, which makes this a serious, years. Luxe Vintages. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 1912, this wine is dense and concentrated. It demon- age-worthy wine. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $93 strates both elegance and an immense tannic character. —R.V. Acidity and flavors of blackberry and spice are all pres- abv: NA Price: $NA Maison Champy 2010 Clos de Vougeot. ent. This demands to be aged for a long time. Martin 91 For its youth, this is surprisingly forward and Scott Wines. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Clos fruity. It is concentrated, and it offers a ripe plum flavor, abv: NA Price: $NA 93 Frantin (Clos de Vougeot). Big and struc- sweet tannins and attractive acidity. The structure sits tured, this wine is currently dominated by tannins, but behind the delicious fruit, which suggests that this wine Louis Jadot 2010 Clos Saint-Denis. This it shows a hint of its intense fruit and potential. The red is only for the medium term. Fine Vines. —R.V. firm, tannic wine is made from fruit sourced 96 and black fruits are rich and ripe, and they promise fu- abv: NA Price: $NA from a vineyard in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis. It’s ture balance. Age this for at least 7–8 years. A French a solid selection, and it has enormous potential. The Paradox. —R.V. ripe black-cherry and plum flavors are dominated by abv: NA Price: $NA marsannay the tannins. Concentrated, this is ready for long-term aging. Kobrand. —R.V. Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Lon­ Domaine Champy 2010 Corton-Bres­ abv: 13% Price: $280 geroies (Marsannay). Rich, elegant and sandes. 91 93 This firm, structured wine has ripe, classic, this wine is made from fruit sourced from old Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Les restrained tannins that lend the palate a sense of ele- vines—some as much as 70 years old. It has a tannic 96 Grandes Lolières (Corton). For full review gance. It’s a fruity selection, packed with acidity and red structure, but the dominant elements are the dense see page 3. Cellar Selection. berry flavors, and it has a firm finish. Keep this for at red- and black-plum flavors, which are supported by the abv: 13.5% Price: $104 least eight years. Fine Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. wine’s acids. Age it for 5–6 years. Martin Scott Wines. abv: NA Price: $NA Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Clos abv: NA Price: $NA 95 Frantin (Chambertin). The king of the L. Tramier & Fils 2009 Collection (Clos de Gevrey-Chambertin grand crus, this powerful, concen- 93 Vougeot). With its firm tannins and powerful Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Grass­ trated Chambertin is a blockbuster. It is currently domi- fruit, the style of Clos de Vougeot is well expressed. It 90 es Têtes (Marsannay). This wine is power- nated by its structure, which hides the ripe fruit. Made has weight, and it is loaded with juicy black fruits and ful and tannic, firm and dense. The fruit character is

WineMag.com | 33 still submerged by the concentrated, dry core, which but it has enough concentration and density to age for structure of the vintage. Age this for 2–3 years. Epic suggests that this wine needs at least 4–5 years before many years. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. the red berry fruits show through. Martin Scott Wines. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $50 —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Cazetiers Jaffelin 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin. Show- 94 Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). Tight 90 ing the structure of Gevrey-Chambertin and the Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Vaudenelles and structured, this wine is made from fruit sourced ripe fruit of the 2009 vintage, this bottling is immediate- 90 (Marsannay). Located on a high slope in Mar- from some of the poorest soil in Les Cazetiers. Dense ly opulent and seductive. With its red plum flavor and sannay, the Vaudenelles Vineyard creates structured and tight, this has intense minerality and firm tannins al- balanced tannins and acids, this is a solid wine to drink wines. This selection has a beautiful perfumed charac- lied to red berry flavors. This has great aging potential. now. Epic Wines. —R.V. ter, and it offers delicious red-berry flavors and lively Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 acids that are striated by minerality. Martin Scott Wines. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Clos Prieur (Gevrey- abv: NA Price: $NA Louis Jadot 2010 Clos Saint-Jacques 89 Chambertin). This is a smoky, fragrant wine 94 Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). Clos that offers dense fruit and firm tannins. It has the struc- Domaine Sylvain Pataille 2010 Saint-Jacques is located in the north of Gevrey-Cham- ture of a fine Gevrey and the concentration of the vin- 90 L’Ancestrale (Marsannay). An old-vine bertin. This is a structured, powerful wine, with plenty tage. This is classic and worth aging for 4–5 years. A wine, this is powerful, concentrated and impressively of firm tannins in its youth. It’s full of ripe red fruit, and French Paradox. —R.V. dense for a Marsannay. It is full of red plum and berry it needs to age for many years. Kobrand. Cellar Selec- abv: NA Price: $NA flavors, plus firm tannins that suggest this could age for tion. —R.V. several years. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $180 Maison Champy 2010 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13% Price: $73 88 (Gevrey-Chambertin). Grapes sourced from Domaine des Varoilles 2010 Clos des 60-year-old vines have given this structured wine firm Domaine Sylvain Pataille 2010 Marsan­ 93 Varoilles Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru tannins and concentration. With its lean edge of acid- 88 nay. A fruity style of wine, this has red berry (Gevrey-Chambertin). Clos des Varoilles is com- ity, this demands aging in order to bring out the reticent flavors and only touches of structure and tannin. The pletely owned by Domaine des Varoilles. This wine is fruitiness. Fine Vines. —R.V. wine is warm and round, packed with fruit on the finish. rich and full in the mouth, and it combines opulence abv: NA Price: $NA Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V. with a big, solid structure. Certainly requiring age, this abv: NA Price: $26 is packed with ripe red-berry and black cherry flavors, layered with dark, smoky tannins. Serge Doré Selec- chambolle-musigny Louis Jadot 2010 Marsannay. Marsannay tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Les Chabiots Pre­ is a small appellation in the northern end of the 88 abv: 13.5% Price: $180 mier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). This wine Côte de Nuits, and it produces fine rosés as well as light 93 shares some of the same opulence and velvety texture as reds. This well-balanced, fruity red is already approach- Albert Bichot 2010 Lavaux Saint-Jacques wines made from the adjacent Le Musigny grand cru. able, and it offers a juiciness that comes from the rasp- Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This 92 It is dense, with a fine, ripe character that penetrates berry and cherry flavors. Keep it for a couple of years, wine shows the structured side of Gevrey-Chambertin. deep into the heart of the tannins. The juicy red- and but also try some soon. Kobrand. —R.V. The vineyard is situated at the opening of a small side dark-berry flavors give a hint of the richness to come. A abv: 12.5% Price: $40 valley, a location that allows the grapes to ripen slowly. French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V. This is elegant and structured, and it’s full of solid tan- abv: NA Price: $NA nins as well as cherry and red berry flavors. Age this for gevrey-chambertin 7–8 years. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2010 La Combe Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Clos Saint- abv: NA Price: $NA 93 d’Orveau Premier Cru (Chambolle-Mu­ Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey-Cham­ signy). Wet earth and leaf notes are the overriding aro- 95 Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Clos bertin). Made from fruit sourced from one of the fin- mas at this stage. Yet it is also very fruity, with a jam- Frantin Les Murots (Gevrey-Chambertin). est premier crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, this is a closed 90 my quality that balances the firm tannins. It hints at Packed with ripe black- and red-fruit flavors, this wine is wine initially. Then its rich black-fruit flavors explode, the richness and style of Chambolle, but it shows the dense and concentrated. The rich, generous fruit comes yet the wine still retains its serious, tannic character. powerful structure of neighboring Morey-Saint-Denis. with a complex minerally edge, and it shows the wood The structure promises that this complex bottling will This needs several years of aging. Frederick Wildman influence in the form of a spice note. Age this at least six age well. Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. years. A French Paradox. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $190 abv: NA Price: $NA Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Cham­ Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Véroilles Domaine des Varoilles 2010 Clos du peaux Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). (Chambolle-Musigny). The grapes to make 95 Meix des Ouches (Gevrey-Chambertin). 92 New wood aromas dominate this powerful wine, which 90 this rich, ripe wine were sourced from vines that were A single-vineyard wine, this is firmly structured and full shows how much time it needs to age. It also has con- planted in the 1980s. The vineyard, which is located of perfumed fruit. New wood aging gives the red berry centrated, juicy black-cherry and plum flavors and love- next to Bonnes Mares, yields wines that have an open, fruit a smoky, toasty character. It’s a rich, concentrated ly acidity. This wine is made from fruit sourced from a generous style, plus elements of structure that lend ag- selection to age for five years or more. Serge Doré Se- two-acre parcel in the Champeaux premier cru. Loosen ing potential. Ready to drink in two years, but it should lections. —R.V. Bros. USA. —R.V. age well for many more. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $130 abv: 14% Price: $92 abv: NA Price: $NA Jaffelin 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin. Power­ Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Clos de Fon­ Joseph Drouhin 2010 Premier Cru ful and finely structured, this rich wine has teny Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). 90 (Chambolle-Musigny). A blend of wines 94 swathes of red plum and red berry flavors that balance 91 This wine has tender tannins that add feeling to the from a number of Chambolle’s premier cru vineyards, the core of solid tannins. It shows the ripe fruit and swathes of ripe fruit. It’s rounder than many Gevreys, this is a rich and generous wine, with spice and red ber-

34 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 ry flavors, plus sweet tannins and a firm feel on the fin- this feel balanced already, but this is a wine for long- on the finish. With its tannins, this should age for many ish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. term aging. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $90 abv: 13.5% Price: $120 abv: 13.5% Price: $100

Joseph Faiveley 2010 Chambolle-­ Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Clos Jaffelin 2010 Nuits-St.-Georges. This wine 90 Musigny. Smooth and rich, this generous se- 90 Frantin (Vosne-Romanée). This wine has 88 is chunky and firm, and its lively red fruit brings lection is full of ripe fruit and balanced tannins. It shows equal amounts of ripe berry fruit and structure. There is freshness. With its dry core and touch of toast on the the elegant side of village wines. With delicious acidity a smoky character, wood and spice notes, balanced acid- finish, this could age for a couple of years. Epic Wines. on the finish, this wine can be consumed soon, although ity and a leather-like touch to the texture. It is slowly —R.V. it will also age well for several years. Frederick Wildman developing, and it has the potential to be rich. Age this abv: 13% Price: $55 & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. for 6–8 years. A French Paradox. —R.V. Jaffelin 2009 Nuits-St.-Georges. abv: 13% Price: $95 abv: NA Price: $NA This wine 87 is solid, concentrated and tannic, and it has a Jaffelin 2010 Chambolle-Musigny. This Maison Champy 2010 Les Basse dark chocolate flavor from having aged in wood. It’s is a lightweight Chambolle that’s dominated by 87 Mezières (Vosne-Romanée). Aged for 18 likely to develop into a chunky wine over the next few red fruit and acidity. There is a bitter edge that comes 89 months in wood, this wine has dense tannins, dark fruits years. Epic Wines. —R.V. from the wood and the firm structure of the vintage. abv: 13% Price: $55 and serious structure. The berry fruit and acidity sug- However, with its attractive, juicy finish, it is already soft gest that his wine has a generous and ripe side. This enough to drink. Epic Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $32 needs at least four years of aging. Fine Vines. —R.V. other côte de nuits abv: NA Price: $NA wines Jaffelin 2009 Chambolle-Musigny. A tight 85 wine, this is dominated by acids, red fruits and nuits-st.-georges Domaine de Bellene 2010 Vieilles Vignes firm tannins, and it’s missing some of the richness of 89 (Côtes de Nuits Villages). This has weight the vintage. It has a closed feeling, and it needs some Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Château and ripe plum and damson flavors that are now integrat- months to develop, but this will always be dry. Epic 93 Gris Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). An ing into the tannins. It’s worth aging for a few years, but Wines. —R.V. elegant wine, this has dark tannins and a sumptuous tex- it is already enjoyable. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $64 ture, which is smoothed by generous fruit and acidity. abv: 13.5% Price: $58 On the finish, a spice note and a dry structure promise Moillard 2010 Clos du Meix Trouhans that this will age well. A French Paradox. Cellar Selec- (Fixin). A firmly structured wine, this has a dry Vosne-Romanée tion. —R.V. 87 character that’s underscored by red fruit and balancing Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Clos abv: NA Price: $NA acidity. It needs to age for a few years to be at its best. Frantin Les Malconsorts Premier Cru 94 Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. (Vosne-Romanée). With vines that are located next Domaine Faiveley 2010 Aux Chaignots abv: 13% Price: $42 to La Tâche, this vineyard is great. Powerful and com- 93 Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). Aux plex, this has the right depth of flavor. It is finely en- Chaignots is a vineyard to the north of the town of Nuits-­ dowed with brooding tannins and black fruit flavors. St-Georges, which is not far from Vosne-­Romanée. Its savigny-lès-beaune The texture and acidity on the finish promise this has location imparts firm, dominating tannins. It is dense, considerable aging potential. A French Paradox. Cellar with a determined structure. The acidity and fruit are Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 La Dominode Selection. —R.V. there, and they’re likely to show through over the next 93 Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). The abv: NA Price: $NA 4–5 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Se- fruit used to make this wine was sourced from low-

lection. —R.V. yielding vines, some of which are 100 years old. Con- Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles abv: 13% Price: $110 centrated, structured and dense, this offers a blackberry 94 Vignes (Vosne-Romanée). This is a new flavor that is allied to the exquisite acidity. Age this for venture by Nicolas Potel, whose family formerly owned Louis Jadot 2010 Les Boudots Premier eight years or more. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. Made from fruit 93 Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). This wine is solid abv: NA Price: $NA sourced from 50-year-old vines, this wine is beautifully and tannic, with a foursquare structure. Under the dry structured, and it has firm tannins that pair with the fine Simon Bize 2010 Aux Grands Liards tannins, there are dense flavors of damson and plum. swaths of juicy flavors of red and black cherries. This is (Savigny-lès-Beaune). The master of Savig- Give this wine at least five years of aging. Kobrand. Cel- 92 meant for long-term aging. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar ny-lès-Beaune, Bize has produced a powerful, expres- lar Selection. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. sive wine from this small single vineyard. It has serious abv: 13.5% Price: $100 abv: 13.5% Price: $82 structure, although the sumptuous black-fruit flavors are already showing. Concentrated, rich and fruity, this Domaine Faiveley 2010 Les Damodes Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Champs will age for at least five years. Becky Wasserman Selec- Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). With its Perdrix (Vosne-Romanée). Situated up high 92 tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 firm tannins and structure, this is a wine that’s made on the slope behind the Vosne-Romanée grand crus, abv: NA Price: $46 Les Champs Perdrix has produced a wine that blends in the traditional Nuits-St.-Georges style. But it’s also structure with velvety fruit. Old vines have given this a packed with ripe red fruit, and it has a jammy character Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Hauts Jar­ dense character and ripe, juicy flavors. Age this for 8–9 and an open feel. There is no doubt that this is a wine to 90 rons Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). years. Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. age for at least five years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, This shows the structure of the vintage as well as deli- abv: NA Price: $NA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. cious red-berry and spice flavors. Hints of wood aging abv: 13.5% Price: $100 are apparent and need to integrate, so give this concen- Louis Jadot 2010 Les Suchots Premier trated selection at least four years. Loosen Bros. USA. 93 Cru (Vosne-Romanée). Powerful and struc- Domaine Faiveley 2010 Les Porêts-Saint- —R.V. tured, this wine is made from fruit sourced from a vine- 92 Georges Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georg­ abv: 13.5% Price: $82 yard that is almost completely surrounded by some of es). This wine is structured, but it has ripe red fruit Burgundy’s greatest grand crus. The wine is juicy, and that cushions the firm tannins. It is dense, and it offers Domaine Pavelot 2010 Savigny-lès- its ripe fruits pour through the dense tannins, making a fine harmony of flavors as well as a burst of acidity 90 Beaune. Pure and fruity, this wine has struc-

WineMag.com | 35 ture as well as a velvety texture. Opulent flavors of red Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Perrières nins. There is a sense of power in this black-currant- berries and a touch of earthiness are laced with soft tan- 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). For full review see and black-cherry-flavored selection. Keep it for at least nins and acidity. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V. page 5. Cellar Selection. seven years. Fine Vines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $56 abv: NA Price: $NA

Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles Domaine des Croix 2010 Pertuisots Pre­ Domaine Champy 2010 Les Champs 90 Vignes (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Savigny-lès- 92 mier Cru (Beaune). Made from fruit sourced 90 Pimont Premier Cru (Beaune). A red cher- Beaune often shows the softer side of Pinot Noir. This from a small premier cru that’s located next to the fa- ry flavor and a rich texture show the ripe side of this wine has juicy red-cherry and raspberry flavors that bal- mous Clos des Mouches, this is juicy, round and ripe, plump wine. It has tannins and a touch of bitter choco- ance the , dry tannins. The low-yielding old vines with a great swathe of soft, fleshy tannins. Becky Was- late. It’s already full and generous, but it does need to from which the fruit was sourced give this selection ex- serman Selections. —R.V. age for at least six years. Fine Vines. —R.V. tra concentration. This will benefit from medium-term abv: 13.5% Price: $52 abv: NA Price: $NA aging. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $58 Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Cent Vignes Jaffelin 2010 Les Cent Vignes Premier 92 Premier Cru (Beaune). Rich and smooth, 90 Cru (Beaune). Rich, round and complex, this Albert Bichot 2010 Les Peuillets Premier this wine’s structured tannins are fully integrated into is full of ripe red-berry flavors. The acidity drives the 89 Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Rich and broad, its juicy fruit. It’s a ripe bottling, and it shows a hint of solid tannins and firm structure. The wine has the ap- this is packed with dense fruit and tannins. It is ripe wood aging in the form of a smoky character. The acid- proachability of Beaune, but it can also be aged for 4–5 and full bodied, two qualities that are derived from the ity is intense, which perks up the berry fruit. This prom- years. Epic Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. warm vineyard. The finish shows juicy acidity. A French ises to age. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Paradox. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $54 abv: NA Price: $NA Albert Bichot 2010 Clos de l’Ermitage Jaffelin 2009 Sur les Grèves Clos Saint- 88 (Beaune). There is a touch of minerality in this Louis Jadot 2010 Clos des Guettes Pre­ 92 Anne Premier Cru (Beaune). Big, bold and wine as well as a dry edge and ripe red-fruit flavors that 89 mier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Fruity and cuddly, this wine’s tannins are cushioned by the red ber- are already attractive. It should be aged at least three fragrant, this Savigny shows extra weight that makes it ry fruit and attractive acidity. It has weight and a rich years. A French Paradox. —R.V. serious and age worthy. The wine’s tannins are cush- feeling, and the dry edge offers the possibility of ag- abv: NA Price: $NA ioned by the generous red fruits, which promise aging ing. This small clos is exclusive to Jaffelin. Epic Wines. potential. Wood and spice flavors emphasize the finish. —R.V. Domaine Champy 2010 Vieilles Vignes Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $57 87 (Beaune). While this shows the concentration abv: 13.5% Price: $50 of the vines that were planted in the 1940s, it also has Joseph Drouhin 2010 Beaune Grèves a tight, lean quality and considerable acidity. Its fruit is Domaine Champy 2010 Aux Forches 92 Premier Cru (Beaune). With its firmness still subdued by the structure, and it needs 3–4 years to 87 (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This is firmly struc- and juicy red-fruit flavor, this wine is delicious to drink become round. Fine Vines. —R.V. tured, and it shows the earthy fruit character of Savigny. now, but it will also age for at least six years. This bot- abv: NA Price: $NA The red plum flavor is cut with acidity. It’s worth aging tling demonstrates the structure and generosity of one for 2–3 years. Fine Vines. —R.V. of Beaune’s most famous premier crus. Dreyfus, Ashby abv: NA Price: $NA & Co. —R.V. pommard abv: 13% Price: $74 Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavillon Rugiens Premier Cru (Pommard). Rugiens, Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos de L’Ecu 91 Beaune which is named after its red soil, is located in the south Premier Cru (Beaune). This is a structured, Domaine de Bellene 2010 Pertuisots Pre­ 91 of Pommard. Dense, structured and powerful, this is a fruity wine that has ripe strawberry and red plum fla- mier Cru (Beaune). Structured, concentrated brooding wine that has concentrated tannins and fruit 94 vors. Its tannins are condensed at the core, and the and minerally, this wine’s tannins are strong, and they that is offset by a tight line of acidity. This is a wine that finish is marked by refreshing acidity. The vineyard is accompany the juicy red-berry flavors. It has a dry core demands aging. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. wholly owned by Faiveley. Frederick Wildman & Sons, and a dense texture, and it’s meant to age for at least —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. six years. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $92 L. Tramier & Fils 2010 Collection Premier Jaffelin 2010 Sur les Grèves Clos Saint- Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos des Mouches Cru (Pommard). For full review see page 7. Anne Premier Cru (Beaune). This has firm 91 Premier Cru (Beaune). For full review see 91 abv: 13% Price: $63 94 tannins, and it demonstrates the potential of its juicy page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13% Price: $109 fruit flavors. With its powerful structure, this is a slowly Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010 developing selection that needs at least five years in a 89 Clos Blanc Premier Cru (Pommard). This Domaine de Bellene 2010 Clos du Roi cellar. Epic Wines. —R.V. is a hard-edged wine, a typical trait of young Pommard. 93 Premier Cru (Beaune). Ripe, full bodied and abv: 13% Price: $57 It has a firm, dry and tannic character, and the ripe, gen- jammy, this wine is already a delight to the senses. It is erous fruit sits underneath. Wait for at least five years Louis Jadot 2010 Theurons Premier Cru rich, round and full of strawberry jelly flavor, layered for this wine to be ready. Saranty Imports. —R.V. (Beaune). Perfumed, rich yet soft, this is opu- with new-wood-derived spice. The wood element needs 91 abv: 13.5% Price: $61 lent Beaune at its best. It has acidity and a touch of tan- to become integrated, so keep this powerful bottling for nin, but it’s the broad, ripe red-fruit flavors that domi- at least five years. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. Domaine Champy 2010 Pommard. Made nate, which gives juiciness and vitality to this wine that —R.V. 88 from grapes that were sourced from two parcels, abv: 13% Price: $92 will age for several years. Kobrand. —R.V. this Pommard is firmly structured, and it shows fine red- abv: 13.5% Price: $70 fruit flavers that sit under the dark, dense tannins. It has a ripe yet minerally texture. Fine Vines. —R.V. Domaine Champy 2010 Aux Cras Pre­ abv: NA Price: $NA 90 mier Cru (Beaune). Rich ruby in color, this firm, concentrated wine shows minerality and solid tan-

36 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Louis Jadot 2010 Pommard. A dense, firm L. Tramier & Fils 2010 Collection Premier other côte de 88 selection, this has layers of red fruits and acids 89 Cru (Volnay). This full-bodied wine demon- that help to give the wine’s skeleton some flesh. This is strates the jammy side of Volnay. It is rich and dense, beaune likely to develop into a rich, but always firm, wine. Ko- and it has a delicious berry flavor. In the process of all Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 En la rue de brand. —R.V. this generosity, the tannins are lost, so drink it over the Vergy (Morey-Saint-Denis). The vines from abv: 13.5% Price: $65 next few years. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. 93 this vineyard help to create big, concentrated wines that abv: 13% Price: $79 are tannic and dense. It is dark and firm, and the dam- volnay Jaffelin 2009 Volnay. Earthy, soft and ripe, son skin flavor adds to the sense of power. Age this for

this wine shows the richness of the vintage. It is 6–8 years. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. Louis Jadot 2010 Santenots Premier Cru 88 abv: NA Price: $NA full of red plum and red jelly flavors, and the tannins are (Volnay). Santenots, like most premier crus, 93 dusty in the background. The acidity holds it all togeth- is located halfway down the slope. This is structured, Domaine Pavelot 2010 Les Vergelesses er, and the finish is juicy and fruity. Epic Wines. —R.V. yet it remains ripe and fruity, and it shows off the vo- Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). This abv: 13% Price: $42 93 luptuous texture that’s characteristic of Volnay. There is is a delicate, elegant wine, with flavors of red berries fine balance between the acidity and fruit, and the dry Domaine Champy 2010 Volnay. Ripe and and currants. Notes of spice and undergrowth are fol- core promises aging potential. Kobrand. Cellar Selec- round, this has a strawberry flavor that is sur- lowed by mouth-watering acidity. Drink this after 5–6 tion. —R.V. 87 Cellar Selection. rounded by dense tannins. It shows a fine line of fresh years. Becky Wasserman Selections. abv: 13% Price: $70 acidity, and it is ready to drink, although it will age for —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $38 Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles several years. Fine Vines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA 92 Vignes (Volnay). A sweet cherry aroma sets Louis Jadot 2010 Clos de la Croix de the scene for this fruity, firmly structured wine. The 92 Pierre Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergeless­ juicy red-berry fruit is balanced by a smoky tannic char- santenay es). The Clos de la Croix de Pierre forms part of the acter. This will be a pleasure to drink in a year, and it can En Caradeux premier cru, and it creates poised wines. also age longer. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. David Moreau 2010 Clos Rousseau Pre­ This is the red partner to a white also produced by Louis abv: 13% Price: $82 91 mier Cru (Santenay). This wine is perfumed, Jadot, and it displays juicy red fruit, layered with firm with delicious notes of plum and spice that are balanced tannins. Drinkable now, but also capable of aging for Domaine Champy 2010 Les Taillepieds by light tannins and fine, elegant acids. A touch of min- five years. Kobrand. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Volnay). An elegant wine, this eral marks the finish. Becky Wasserman Selections. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 is full of ripe black-fruit flavors, and it has a rich, vel- —R.V. vety texture. The acidity and minerality give this wine abv: 13% Price: $40 Albert Bichot 2010 Clos des Maréchaudes a sense of structure that promises good aging potential. 91 Premier Cru (Aloxe-Corton). This Bichot Fine Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Gravières Pre­ monopole has produced a round wine that’s full of at- abv: NA Price: $NA 90 mier Cru (Santenay). This is a smooth and tractive plum flavor. It’s backbone is buried in the sump- polished wine, with herb and new wood aromas. It has tuous texture. Age this for at least four years. A French Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Brouillards juicy red-berry flavors, and the tannins push forward. Paradox. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Volnay). Rich and full, this Structured, with intense acidity, this is ready to age for abv: NA Price: $NA wine shows some sense of structure. It has considerable at least 5–6 years. USA Wine West. —R.V. acidity and flavors of cherry and red currant. With the abv: 13% Price: $47 Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010 dry tannins coming through on the finish, it will need 88 Les Morais (Aloxe-Corton). Wood aging has some years to soften. USA Wine West. —R.V. David Moreau 2010 Cuvée S (Santenay). imparted a slight bitterness to the ripe fruit. The juicy abv: 13% Price: $66 89 Named after David Moreau’s mother, Simone, red-cherry flavor is melded into the firm tannins, and this old-vine wine is concentrated, with sweet-tasting the finish is bright and round. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Mitans Premier Cru fruit and spicy tannins. The tight acidity gives a deli- abv: 13% Price: $43 91 (Volnay). Mitans is one of the lesser-known cious lift to the red berry flavors. Becky Wasserman Se- premier crus in Volnay, and it has created a wine that lections. —R.V. Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010 shows the voluptuousness of Volnay. It has a smoky abv: NA Price: $30 87 Les Beaumonts (Chorey-lès-Beaune). character, and it’s laced with acidity and bright red fruit. Ripe and fruity, this is a round, soft wine that shows the It will benefit from 3–4 years of aging. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Santenay. With a pro- jammy character of Pinot Noir. It has a straight line of abv: 13% Price: $NA 89 portion of premier cru grapes in the blend, this acidity that cuts through the fruit, which makes for an wine has weight and structure as well as the ripe red- attractive, light finish. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavillon fruit flavors that are typical of Santenay. It’s richly tex- abv: 13% Price: $28 90 Les Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay). Typ- tured and full in the mouth. The finish is fruity and soft. ical of Volnay, this wine has a velvety character that sur- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chassagne-Mon­ rounds the firm tannins. The acidity is palpable through abv: 13% Price: $45 87 trachet. In the past, there was much more red the warm red-berry flavors and firm edge. It is certainly wine than white wine produced in Chassagne-Montra- a wine for aging, although it is also likely to be drinkable Albert Bichot 2010 Les Charmes (San­ chet. This firm, tannic wine, with its austere fruit, shows in 2–3 years. A French Paradox. —R.V. 87 tenay). A fruity wine, this has exuberant red- a similarity to Pommard. This is a wine that needs to abv: NA Price: $NA berry flavors that suggest this wine can be consumed age for over several years in order for it to soften and now. Gentle tannins balance the fine acidity and rich, become round, and for the red berry fruit to surface. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Volnay. This is an ele­ warm texture. A French Paradox. —R.V. —R.V. 90 gant, rich and round Volnay, with a red plum fla- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA vor and juicy acidity. With its fruitiness, this is already drinkable, although the tannic core does promise medi- Domaine Champy 2010 Chorey-lès- um-term aging. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 86 Beaune. This underrated village, which is lo- abv: 13% Price: $65 cated next to Savigny-lès-Beaune, has produced an at- tractive, fruity wine that has a fine structure, a red berry

WineMag.com | 37 flavor and a twist of acidity on the finish. Keep this for tion to the fruit. Ready to drink now. Frederick Wild- which is just waiting to break out beyond the concen- 2–3 years. Fine Vines. —R.V. man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. trated, dry core. Give it 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $24 & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Olivier Leflaive 2010 Cuvée Margot Pinot côte chalonnaise 85 Noir (Bourgogne). Made from fruit sourced Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portu­ gal (Douro). Jaffelin 2009 Les Grandes Vignes Pre­ in the Côte de Beaune, this is a soft, fruity wine, with 89 This rich wine shows ripe fruit approachable red berry fruit. It is ripe, full bodied and and a polished, smooth mouthfeel. The blackberry fla- mier Cru (Givry). Although this has a rustic 89 just lightly tannic. The acidity gives the finish a clean vor dominates the firm tannins, which gives the palate edge, this is an attractive, ripe and red-fruited wine. It cut. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. a juicy quality. It reveals fine depth of flavor, minerality has a rich, jammy quality that combines with the dry abv: NA Price: $28 and aging potential. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best tannins. The finish is dense and firm. Enjoy this now, or Buy. —R.V. wait for three years. Epic Wines. —R.V. Jaffelin 2010 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 84 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). High acidity makes Ramos-Pinto 2010 Duas Quintas (Dou­ Jaffelin 2010 Les Grandes Vignes Pre­ this wine taste bright, fruity and light. There is only a hint of dry tannin to the red currant flavor. Epic Wines. ro). Red fruits are what drive this easy, fragrant mier Cru (Givry). Givry, which is located 88 88 —R.V. wine. The tannins play a supporting role, which gives in the Côte Chalonnaise, produces wines that have abv: 12.5% Price: $23 the berry flavors structure. A blend from two Douro es- warmth and a firm edge. This wine fits the style with tates, this attractive selection will be ready to drink in a its juicy red fruits, ripe tannins and solid, chunky finish. Maison Champy 2010 Signature Pi­ year. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. This is not for aging, so drink now. Epic Wines. —R.V. not Noir (Bourgogne). This is a tight wine, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 84 with as much acidity as fruit. The red berry flavor cuts Wines & Winemakers 2011 Colleja (Dou­ Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine Adélie (Mer­ through the crisp texture, which hints at tannins. Fine Vines. —R.V. ro). This wine has earthy aromas, and it’s curey). Soft and ripe, this has light tannins, red 84 86 abv: NA Price: $NA densely packed with dark chocolate and black plum fla- berry fruit and a round texture. It has a touch of firm- vors. The dense tannins still dominate, so give it a few ness, acidity and good density. Drink now, or age it for months. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 2–3 years. A French Paradox. —R.V. portugal abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: NA Price: $NA Douro Dão other bourgogne Ramos-Pinto 2010 Duas Quintas Reserva Casa da Passarela 2008 Vinhas Velhas Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles 92 (Douro). Duas Quintas Reserva is now estab- (Dão). The extra concentration of low-yielding Vignes Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). Nicolas lished as one of the benchmark wines in the Douro. 91 87 old vines is apparent in this dark, brooding wine. The Potel’s entry-level Burgundy is an elegant, fruity wine, This dark-colored effort has ripe, concentrated dark minerally texture and firm tannins are all destined for with soft tannins, rich strawberry fruit and a ripe feel. It berry and herb flavors and a fine sense of tannic struc- long-term aging. Made from fruit that’s sourced from is ready to drink. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. ture from wood aging. There’s a strong sense of min- abv: 13% Price: $22 erality as well, giving this richness and aging potential. the foothills of Portugal’s highest mountains, this has a Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. distinctly structured and dense finish. M Imports, LLC. Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Grande QV abv: 14% Price: $30 Cellar Selection. —R.V. 87 Gamay (Coteaux Bourguignons). Soft and abv: 13.5% Price: $26 lightly smoky, round and ripe, this wine has flavors of Wines & Winemakers 2008 Aguia Mou­ Casa da Passarela 2009 Reserva (Dão). black currant and blueberry, plus a touch of wood and 92 ra Em Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Douro). A Rich and concentrated, this has great depth of gentle acidity. Coteaux Bourguignons is the new ap- powerful and concentrated wine, this shows the region’s 90 flavor, which is sustained by wood influence. With its pellation that replaces the rather derogatory-sounding dark and tannic side. The black plum and juicy black- powerful structure and flavors of dark plum skins and Bourgogne Grand . G.L. Steinke Associates currant flavors shine, and wood aging has smoothed the ripe berries, it is certainly a wine for aging at least 4–5 Inc. —R.V. palate, which makes it feel dense and fully mature. Ibe- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 ria Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Albert Bichot 2010 Secret de Famille Pi­ Casa da Passarela 2009 Colheita (Dão). not Noir (Bourgogne). This is a firm wine, Caves Velhas 2009 Alma Grande Reser­ 85 A structured wine, this reflects the granite soil but it has ripe red fruit. It shows an attractive touch of 91 va Touriga Nacional (Douro). For full re- 87 of the Dão. Fruit from seven vineyards is blended to smoke, and there is fine balance between the firm tan- view see page 6. make this firm, tannin- and black-currant-driven selec- nins and fragrant fruit. Drink now. A French Paradox. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 tion. Perfumes from the Touriga Nacional lend lift to —R.V. Best Buy. abv: NA Price: $NA Wines & Winemakers 2010 Andrez the finish. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 90 Reserva (Douro). Big and black-colored, this abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Pinot Noir is a blockbuster in both looks and mouthfeel. It’s dense, 85 (Bourgogne). A red-berry-flavored wine, this concentrated and packed with juicy fruit that’s touched has juicy acidity and a light touch of tannins. It’s full of by a note of pepper due to the alcohol. It needs a few Bairrada fresh fruit flavors, and the finish shows a red-cherry-like years to age, although it will always be an in-your-face Campolargo 2009 Rol de Coisas Anti­ crispness. USA Wine West. —R.V. wine. Amara Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 92 gas (Bairrada). A blend of five grapes, this is abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 a firm, tannic and age-worthy wine. Even the high alco- hol doesn’t show on the rich, well-balanced palate. It’s Joseph Faiveley 2010 Pinot Noir (Bour­ Churchill’s 2010 Churchill Estates (Dou­ full of plum and black currant flavors, and wood-derived 85 gogne). Light and fruity, this wine has red fruit 89 ro). Equally well known for its Ports, Churchill’s flavors show on the finish. M Imports, LLC. Editors’ and a tannic edge, and bright acidity that gives defini- makes this red wine from fruit that’s sourced from its Choice. —R.V. own vineyards. It has firm tannins and dark plum fruit, abv: 15.5% Price: $20

38 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Wines & Winemakers 2008 Azul Portu­ they promise good aging. It has a spice note and a firm concentration. Age this for 4–5 years. Artisan Vines Dis- 91 gal (Bairrada). Made from fruit that’s sourced structure, with a fleshy character. Iberia Wine & Spirits tributing. —R.V. from the Buçaco Mountains in the east of Bairrada, this LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $35 wine is rich and elegant, and its juicy fruit provides a abv: 14.5% Price: $15 counterbalance to the structure. With its youthful fruiti- Terra d’Alter 2010 Telhas (Alentejano). A ness, this is worth aging for another 2–3 years. Iberia Caves Velhas 2009 Cabeça de Toiro 91 red-fruited wine, this is fragrant of wood and Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 Reserva Touriga Nacional-Castelão strawberries. The palate has a smoky, wood-laden char- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 (Tejo). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. acter, a ripe plum flavor and a fine line of acidity. A fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $15 red-currant note marks the finish. Artisan Vines Distrib- Campolargo 2009 Vinha do Putto (Bair­ uting. —R.V. 90 rada). A new brand from Campolargo, this is Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Estate abv: NA Price: $30 firmly tannic, and it shows off the Baga grape. It needs 89 Bottled Vinho Tinto (Tejo). For full review several years of aging. Saraiva Enterprises. Best Buy. see page 10. Best Buy. Julian Reynolds 2009 Tinto Real (Alen­ —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 86 tejano). There is a distinct barnyard aroma to abv: 14% Price: $9 this wine. The palate seems more clean, and it offers Casal do Conde 2011 Reserva (Tejo). A firm, red berry fruits and tannins. A blend of Trinca- Campolargo 2009 Valdazar (Bairrada). 88 blend of Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sau- deira, Aragones and , this is fruity and 89 Rich, full bodied and smooth, this wine is driv- vignon, this is a firm, tannic wine, with juicy fruit and structured. Independence Imports. —R.V. en by its black fruits and dark tannins. Acidity lines the black-currant-like acidity that lends freshness. Wood abv: 13.5% Price: $NA fruitiness, which gives a juicy edge to the solid texture. influence shows subtly through the forward fruitiness. It shows potential, so keep it for at least four years. M Age this three years or more. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA white wines abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Casa da Passarela 2011 Branco (Dão). Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2010 Espiri­ This rich selection is made from the Dão’s own Campolargo 2010 Tinto Baga (Bairrada). to Tinto (Tejo). This is a herb-scented wine, 89 86 white grape, Encruzado. It is a smooth, lime- and or- Baga can be a shock to the palate because of its and the juicy Castelão component balances the firm 88 ange-flavored wine that’s touched by toast and lifted by tannins. But this wine seems to have fruitiness to offset tannins of the Touriga Nacional. It’s full of ripe red-­ acidity. It’s food-friendly, textured and layered with fruit the intense, dry texture. It shows black currant and herb berry flavors, with a fine swath of sweet tannins and -ac and light tannins. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. ids. Ready to drink. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. flavors, which come laden with spice on the finish. M abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $23 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Catapereiro Casal do Conde 2011 Terras do Vale Escolha (Tejo). A typical local blend of Arin- Campolargo 2008 Diga? Tinto (Bairrada). (Tejo). This fruity wine has wood flavors that 89 85 to, Fernão Pires and Chardonnay, this is smooth, ripe This is full of ripe plum and black cherry fla- structure the bright red-berry note. It’s an upfront wine, 88 and creamy. It has touches of herb, honey and pineap- vors that are richly textured and spiced. It has an ele­ and it has a touch of minerality that gives depth to the ple, which are laced together by citrusy acidity. The fin- gant side, which makes for a round, full-bodied finish, tannins. Age this for 2–3 years. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. ish is soft. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and it has the potential to age well. Iberia Wine & Spir- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 its LLC. —R.V. Herdade dos Templários 2010 Colheita abv: 14% Price: $40 Campolargo 2010 Diga? Branco (Bairra­ Seleccionada (Tejo). There is a curious pet- 84 da). This ripe, fruity wine has a hint of wood, Campolargo 2009 Entre dos Santos (Ba­ rol aroma to this wine. Even so, the red berry flavor is 88 fine acidity, a soft, creamy texture and an attractive burst irrada). A herbal, dense and tannic wine, this attractive and fresh, and the acidity is lean. USA Wine 85 of lime juice flavor. The finish is warm and rich, marked has black currant fruit that has a minerally texture. It West. —R.V. by good acidity. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 has a dry quality, but it should soften. Tri-Vin Imports. abv: 13% Price: $19 Best Buy. —R.V. Quinta da Ribeirinha 2009 Vale de Lobos abv: 14.5% Price: $10 Ramos-Pinto 2011 Duas Quintas Reser­ (Tejo). An upfront, strawberry-flavored wine, 84 va Branco (Douro). Ramos-Pinto’s two es- this is ripe and immediately fruity. There are enough 88 tates of Bons Aires and Ervamoira provide the grapes tannins to hold the palate together, but it is ready to Tejo for this fruity, smooth-textured white wine. While this drink now. Abreu Imports LLC. —R.V. Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Forma de selection reflects the warmth of the Douro, it also shows abv: 14% Price: $11 92 Arte Reserva (Tejo). For full review see page great citrusy freshness and a crisp finish. Ready to drink. 10. Best Buy. Herdade dos Templários 2010 Vale das —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 83 Donas (Tejo). Flavors of and juicy abv: 12.5% Price: $NA fruit are juxtaposed in this structured yet fruity wine. Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2009 Grande Campolargo 2010 Branco Barrica (Bair­ It has some bitterness and a hint of wood, and there is Escolha Alfrocheiro (Tejo). More common- rada). While this is aged in barrel, the wood 91 intense acidity on the finish. USA Wine West. —R.V. 87 ly found in the Dão region to the north, the Alfrocheiro influence doesn’t quite work for Arinto, which is a lively, abv: 13% Price: $10 grape seems to have found a good home in the sandy fruity varietal. The result is a wine that is laden with soils of Lagoalva de Cima. Rich, fruity and age worthy, toast and textured with vanilla, and it comes with an this has dusty tannins and a texture that hints of mineral. Alentejano edge of bitter lemon. The wood will soften, but it will Winebow. —R.V. always be present. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Terra d’Alter 2010 Outeiro (Alentejano). abv: 13.5% Price: $19 92 A firm, structured wine, this is packed with dry Wines & Winemakers 2010 Catapereiro tannins as well as rich blackberry and plum flavors. It’s Quinta da Alorna 2011 Portal da Aguia 91 Escolha (Tejo). The earthy aromas of Castelão solid, chunky and full bodied, and it offers power and 87 (Tejo). A blend of Fernão Pires and Mosca- show strongly. Complex, rich and juicy, this wine’s tan- tel, this is fresh, crisp and perfumed. It’s an apéritif-like nins and black fruits vie amicably for dominance, and

WineMag.com | 39 wine, with light acidity and a creamy, smooth texture. ity. The finish hints at honey, and it has a crisp texture. Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir (Thra­ Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Winebow. —R.V. 86 cian Valley). Ripe red-cherry and sweet pas- abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 10% Price: $28/375 ml try notes are fragrant on this bright, easy-drinking Pinot Noir. On the finish, hints of smoke and ash add savory Julian Reynolds 2011 Branco Real (Alen­ tones that would be pleasant alongside duck- or pork- 86 tejano). Arinto and Antão Vaz are blended to Port based dishes. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy. create this crisp, bright wine. It also shows a creamy Ramos-Pinto NV RP30 Tawny 30 Years —A.I. side, and it offers touches of vanilla, quince and pear. Port. Deep gold in color, this is a finely per- abv: 13% Price: $9 Ready to drink. Independence Imports. —R.V. 93 fumed, toffee-rich wine, with a tannic edge, wood fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir-Syrah vor, intense acidity and great concentration. It’s a great Rosé (Bulgaria). Notes of ripe red berries are example of aged tawny, and it’s ready to drink now. Mai- 85 Quinta da Ribeirinha 2010 Vale de Lobos featured on the nose of this off-dry rosé, alongside hints sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. Branco (Tejo). Smooth and soft, this is a ripe, 86 abv: 20% Price: $105 of dusty mineral and tomato water. It’s straightforward white-peach-flavored wine. It has an attractive tang of on the palate, with a cheery, slightly candied berry fla- orange zest and a note of almond, and its bright acid- Ramos-Pinto NV RP20 Quinta do Bom vor, but it finishes clean with brisk acidity. Bulgarian ity adds balance. With its fruitiness, it’s ready to drink, Retiro Tawny 20 Years Port. At 20 years, Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. but it will mature over 2–3 years. Abreu Imports LLC. 92 aged tawnies bear fruit and concentrated wood flavors, abv: 13% Price: $9 Best Buy. —R.V. plus dry acidity. This is rich and poised, and it has a fine, abv: 13% Price: $11 Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Sauvignon Blanc full finish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Edi- (Thracian Valley). Fragrant of baked apple tors’ Choice. —R.V. 85 Herdade dos Templários 2011 Vale das abv: 20% Price: $70 and vanilla spice, this Bulgarian Sauvignon Blanc is just 85 Donas Branco (Tejo). A fruity, fresh and a shade off dry. It offers straightforward but easy-drink- crisp wine, this is given some weight by the inclusion Ramos-Pinto 2008 Late Bottled Vintage ing apple and flower flavors, and the bright acidity lends of Chardonnay in the blend. It has an attractive texture, Port. This LBV could be aged. It has a real a clean, brisk finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best and the lemon and grapefruit flavors dominate. USA 90 youthful feel, and its ripe black-fruit flavors are full Buy. —A.I. Wine West. —R.V. of complex sweetness and edged with tannins. It has abv: 12.5% Price: $9 abv: 13% Price: $10 weight, richness and a generous mouthfeel. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2011 Espiri­ abv: 19.5% Price: $25 romania to Branco (Tejo). A blend of five grapes, in- 85 Cramele Recas 2011 Dreamfish Caber­ cluding Sauvignon Blanc, this is a crisp, kiwi- and grape- Ramos-Pinto NV RP10 Quinta da Erva­ net Sauvignon (Viile Timi¸sului). Cramele fruit-flavored wine. It is bright, fruity and tangy, and it 87 moira Tawny 10 Years Port. Ervamoira, one Recas’s Dreamfish series of international varieties con- has a soft, cantaloupe-tasting finish. Ready to drink. 89 of the most remote of the Douro estates, produces this sistently offers bang for your buck, and this vintage of Winebow. —R.V. full, fruity 10-year-old tawny. It’s already drinkable, and Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception. Rich, full bodied abv: 13% Price: $11 it offers almond, raisin and treacle flavors that are lifted and easy drinking, this offers flavors of bright black by the acids. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2011 cherry and berry, framed by notes of vanilla, toast and USA. —R.V. Bridão (Tejo). This is a smooth, apricot- and wet graphite. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. 84 abv: 20% Price: $40 pear-flavored wine that has attractive acidity. It’s fresh, abv: 14% Price: $7 fruity and immediately drinkable as an apéritif or with Ramos-Pinto NV Adriano Reserva White Cramele Recas 2011 Dreambird Mosca­ seafood. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V. Port. Gold in color, this wine deftly balances to (Recas). Redolent of ripe red berries and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 86 the sweetness of the orange marmalade flavor with the cherry blossoms, this semisweet Moscato has a delicate, dry edge that comes from the spirit and the slight tan- Quinta de Lourosa 2011 Vinho Verde. sugar-laced quality, balanced by bright citrus and apple nic character. Ready to drink. Maisons Marques & Do- This is a fruity, off-dry Vinho Verde, with a soft flavors. Crisp in acidity, it’s easy drinking and refreshing 84 maines USA. —R.V. apple flavor and balanced acidity. A blend of Arinto and on the finish. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 19.5% Price: $20 Loureiro, this will make for a delicious apéritif. Wine abv: 12% Price: $7 Adventures Inc. —R.V. Ramos-Pinto NV Collector Reserva Port. Cramele Recas 2011 Dreambird Pinot abv: 10% Price: $NA 86 Full, rich and on the dry side, this is loaded with 86 Noir (Viile Timi¸sului). The Dreambird Pinot ripe berry flavors, and it has a core of firm tannins and Noir is cheerful and bright, and has a vivid cherry-pie dessert wines a touch of acidity. It finishes dry. Maisons Marques & flavor that’s laced with vanilla and toasted wood notes. Domaines USA. —R.V. Brisk acidity leads to the crisp, refreshing finish. Tri-Vin Quinta do Cavalinho NV Sellium Mosca­ abv: 19.5% Price: $20 Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. 88 tel (Portugal). This has flavors that are remi- abv: 13% Price: $7 niscent of the Moscatels from Setúbal. It’s a rich wine that shows a hint of the spirit element, but the ripe fla- other europe Cramele Recas 2011 Dreamfish Sauvi­ vors of toffee and raisin ice cream are more prominent. 85 gnon Blanc (Recas). Sweet flower and cher- Drink now. USA Wine West. —R.V. bulgaria ry aromas perfume this dry, berry-tinged Sauvignon abv: 18% Price: $20 Blanc. It’s refreshing and quaffable, and it offers bright Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Chardonnay acidity and just a hint of green that lingers on the finish. (Thracian Valley). Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2011 Late 87 Aromatic, with notes of or- Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. 88 Harvest (Tejo). The Riesling and Gewürztra- ange blossom and lemon zest, this dry, bracing Char- abv: 13% Price: $7 miner grapes used to make this Alsace-like blend were donnay boasts surprising depth and minerality. Vibrant harvested late to allow for concentrated sweetness. It with lemony acidity, it finishes briskly, with a hint of has a perfumed character and a steely edge of acid- lime-zest-like astringency. Bulgarian Master Vintners. hungary Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $9 Királyudvar 2007 Cuvée Ilona (Tokaj). 94 Bursting with flower and tropical fruit aromas,

40 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 the nose on this Tokaj is intoxicating. Luxurious and develop over the next five years. Domaine Select Wine creamy on the palate, it offers penetrating honey and Estates. —A.I. morocco stone fruit flavors, intensified by prickles of sea salt, abv: 13% Price: $50 mineral and tea leaf astringency. Rare Wine Company. red wine Movia 2010 (Brda). Perfumed with —A.I. Bernard Magrez 2010 Kahina Syrah-Gre­ abv: 10% Price: $50/500 ml scents of dried flowers, figs, cherries and tea, 90 nache (Guerrouane). This powerful blend of this round, voluptuous Ribolla is luscious and fruity. It’s 86 Moroccan Syrah and Grenache is intense and fruity, and Királyudvar 2009 Pezsgo Henye Brut (To­ dry, with a tea-leaf astringency that builds on the pal- it bears ripe black-cherry, plum and blackberry flavors, kaj). Hints of sweet pastry and rising bread en- ate, and it finishes with a flurry of rose petals and cara- 91 tinged with chocolate, cherry cordial and granite notes. tice on this refreshing, dry, yet honeyed sparkling wine melized honey flavors. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Soft tannins on the midpalate add texture to this dense, made from Tokaj grape varieties. It’s brisk on the palate, —A.I. richly structured wine. MHW, Ltd. —A.I. with a clean cut, but it has all of the waxy, floral quali- abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 15% Price: $30 ties of a sweet Tokaj wine. Fantastic now, but it could be even more glorious with five more years in the cellar. Movia 2008 Pinot Grigio (Brda). Notes of Rare Wine Company. —A.I. 90 musk, baked apple, citrus and spice are warm new zealand abv: 13% Price: $30 and mysterious on the nose of this penetrating Slove- nian Pinot Grigio. Intense and fruity on the palate, this Château Hellha 2007 5 Puttonyos Aszú has ripe apple and pear flavors, with layers of honey, pinot noir 88 (). Intensely aromatic, this has scents of dark flower, caramel and tea that add complexity. Do- Felton Road 2010 Calvert Pinot Noir honey, caramel and dried savory herbs. It is a penetrat- maine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. 93 (Central Otago). Unusual for New Zealand ing Tokaj that has a herbaceous tone. The palate is rich abv: 13% Price: $30 Pinot Noir, this full-bodied bottling is structured firmly and creamy, and it offers characteristic flavors of tropi- enough to warrant 2–3 years of cellaring. Earthy, savory cal fruit, beeswax and flower, swathed by hints of laven- Movia 2007 Modri Ceglo Pinot Noir notes that include roasted meat and coffee intertwine der and sage. Bob Bofman Selections. —A.I. 90 (Brda). Like all of Movia’s red wines, the Mo- with black cherry and beetroot, while the tannins turn abv: 10.5% Price: $30/500 ml dri Ceglo is herbaceous on the nose and palate, with dusty on the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selec- hints of menthol and bramble adding complexity to the tion. —J.C. Királyudvar 2010 Sec (Tokaj). crisp red-fruit flavors. The palate is ripe, silken and el- abv: 14% Price: $60 88 Aromatic of honeysuckle, fresh orange peel egantly structured, with brisk acidity and whispers of and rye, this dry Tokaj has all the waxy, honeyed char- graphite, soy and brine that linger long on the finish. Felton Road 2010 Block 3 Pinot Noir acteristics of its sweet counterparts. This is brisk, with Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. 92 (Central Otago). Winemaker Blair Walter has intense, lemony acidity and rippling minerality. Rare abv: 13% Price: $40 dialed up the intensity in this powerfully concentrated Wine Company. —A.I. bottling, which packs ample black-cherry fruit and stur- abv: 12% Price: $20 Movia 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Brda). dy notes of hickory smoke, cured meat and dark cof- 89 Ripe and rich in texture, this powerful Slove- fee. Despite the wine’s considerable weight, the tannins Château Hellha 2002 3 Puttonyos Aszú nian Cabernet balances a bold black-cherry flavor with are supple enough to make it approachable now. Wilson 87 (Tokaji). This off-dry, honeyed Tokaj wine has a loads of savory dried herb, graphite and reverberating Daniels Ltd. —J.C. penetrating minerality that extends from start to finish, acidity. There’s a nervous quality about this wine that abv: 14% Price: $79 with aromas of honeysuckle and fresh tangerine skin. could smooth out with a good decant, or a few more Slightly dusty on the palate, it shows hints of dried herb years in a cellar. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. Felton Road 2010 Block 5 Pinot Noir and crushed stone, and it finishes on a delicate flower abv: 12.5% Price: $38 92 (Central Otago). Already complex, this lus- tone. Bob Bofman Selections. —A.I. cious blend of fruity and savory nuances features black abv: 12% Price: $20/500 ml Movia 2010 Sauvignon (Brda). Intensely cherries and smoked meat notes that are wrapped in a 88 green and herbal on the nose, this has pene- silky glove of dusty tannins. It’s approachable now, but Schloss Koblenz 2011 Sweet Red Blau­ trating flavors of gooseberry, lavender, mint and grass. it should age easily for another 5–7 years. Wilson Dan- 85 fränkisch (Mátra). Delicate in scent, this has This Sauvignon Blanc, which was aged for two years in iels Ltd. —J.C. aromas of bright cherry and violet. This semisweet Blau- French barrique, is textural, with its hints of green-tea- abv: 14% Price: $75 fränkisch bursts on the palate with fresh red-cherry and like tannin. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. strawberry flavors. Juicy and cheerful, it finishes with a abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Felton Road 2010 Cornish Point Pinot hint of caramelized sugar. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —A.I. 92 Noir (Central Otago). More perfumed and abv: 11% Price: $12 floral than the other 2010 Pinot Noirs from Felton croatia Road, the Cornish Point is a pretty, slightly delicate slovenia Grgi´c Vina 2008 Plavac Mali (Dingaˇc). wine that nevertheless doesn’t lack for intensity. It’s me- 90 For full review see page 8. dium in weight, with creamy tannins that finish like silk. Movia 2007 Veliko White (Brda). This has abv: 15.4% Price: $38 Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. 92 ebullient aromas of cherry blossom, grapefruit abv: 14% Price: $63 and yuzu peel. Structurally complex, this has concen- Grgi´c Vina 2010 Pošip (Korˇcula). Fresh trated flavors of sour plum and pink grapefruit. It’s brisk 89 and fragrant, this offers notes of apple, vanilla The Crater Rim 2011 Bendigo Terrace with acidity, and there’s a lavish minerality that lingers spice and lemon rind on the nose and palate. The pal- 92 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). Bendigo is a long on the finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. ate of this Croatian white feels surprisingly voluptuous. warm subregion of Central Otago, and this wine shows abv: 12.5% Price: $50 Dry in style, with penetrating fruit flavors, this has lavish the plush, creamy texture of superripe fruit. The wine minerality on the midpalate that lends the finish a brisk, is smoky and briary, marrying black cherry and mocha Movia 2004 Veliko Red (Brda). Notes of crisp feel. Grgich Hills Estate. —A.I. notes in harmonious complexity, and ending lush and 91 mint and thyme add savory tones to bright, abv: 13.7% Price: $28 long. Drink it now and over the next few years. Epicu- pristine flavors of cassis and black cherry in this blend rean Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. of Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Struc- abv: 14% Price: $25 tured and full bodied, this has warm oak tones and strik- ing acidity. It’s delicious now, but it should continue to

WineMag.com | 41 Cobblestone 2010 Te Muna Pinot Noir Villa Maria 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir cocoa and coffee. It’s on the full-bodied side of things, 91 (Martinborough). The Te Muna Road section 91 (Marlborough). This is an amply endowed, but it remains supple and shows great focus on the of Martinborough is the same region exploited by Crag- round wine, with no hard edges. The ripe cherry fruit is lengthy finish. Drink now and over the next few years. gy Range and Escarpment, so Cobblestone’s American dusted with hints of dusty earth and ground cinnamon Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. owners are in good company. Only the second release of that linger on the finish. It’s a lush, harmonious mouth- abv: 14% Price: $56 this wine, the 2010 is a plush, sexy example, featuring ful of Pinot pleasure. Drink now–2020. Ste. Michelle a combination of fruity and savory components. Black Wine Estates. —J.C. Peregrine 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Ota­ cherry fruit pushes through complex notes of smoke, abv: 14% Price: $40 90 go). Unabashedly New World in style, Pere- sous bois and shiitake mushrooms. Drink now–2020. grine’s 2009 combines lusty fruit with ample oak accents Cobblestone Vineyards. —J.C. Craggy Range 2010 Te Muna Road Vine­ to create a moderately complex, silky-textured Pinot abv: 14.9% Price: $50 90 yard Pinot Noir (Martinborough). Craggy’s Noir. The cherry fruit is accented by hints of vanilla, Pinot style has been trending away from overt fruitiness graham cracker and a delicate wreath of smoked meat. Greywacke 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ and toward this sort of complex umamifest of meat, Drink now–2017. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. 91 ough). Former Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin parsnip and mushroom, with just enough black cherry abv: 14% Price: $32 Judd has produced a moderately full-bodied, lush Pinot fruit to support all of these components. This 2010 has Noir under his own label. Intense cherry-berry fruit is a firmly structured core surrounded by plush tannins Quartz Reef 2010 Pinot Noir (Central framed by smoky, spicy oak that ends on notes of clove and ample length on the finish. Drink now–2023. Ko- 90 Otago). Made from fruit that is drawn from the and hickory. Drink it over the next several years. Old brand. —J.C. Bendigo subregion, this is a full-bodied, supple Pinot Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $50 Noir that boasts a notably silky finish. It’s smoky, violet- abv: 14% Price: $39 filled and savory, but those nuances are balanced out by Escarpment 2009 Pinot Noir (Martinbor­ the core of cherry fruit. Drink now–2020. Station Im- Mud House 2010 Golden Terraces Vine­ 90 ough). The Escarpment style is always one ports Inc. —J.C. 91 yard Pinot Noir (Central Otago). Made of ample ripeness, weight and structure, and the 2009 abv: 14% Price: $37 from fruit that was sourced from Central Otago’s Ben- measures up to the winery’s previous successes. Plum- digo subregion, this is a ripe and concentrated wine that my fruit is tinged with a dark chocolate note, while the Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 16 Awa­ still manages to show a surprising degree of elegance palate is richly textured, and the finish is long and vel- 90 tere Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The cher- on the finish. Black cherry fruit is framed by maple syr- vety. Drink now–2018. Meadowbank Estates. —J.C. ry fruit that defines this wine is almost too bright, too up and brown sugar timbering. The wine seems chunky abv: 14.5% Price: $NA pure—it verges on being confected in character. Yet it’s and full at first, but it smooths out and turns supple by reined in by a leash of vanilla oak and a reasonably firm the finish. It should drink well for the next five years Goldwater 2010 Wairau Valley Pinot Noir structure of acids and tannins. The wine is merely too or more. Pasternak Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. 90 (Marlborough). Goldwater originally made its young at the moment, so give it a few years to mellow —J.C. name as a Waiheke Island boutique winery, but the fruit and gain complexity. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 for this Pinot Noir is drawn from Marlborough’s main abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Wairau Valley. Its pretty cherry fruit is marked by hints Pegasus Bay 2009 Pinot Noir (Waipara of cedar, mocha and baking spices that finish balanced Spy Valley 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ 91 Valley). Smoky aromas of hickory-laced dark and long. Drink now–2017. Pasternak Wine Imports. 90 ough). Round and supple without being exces- fruit lead the way, easily sliding into boysenberry and —J.C. sively weighty, Spy Valley’s 2010 Pinot Noir delicate- bacon notes on the palate. The flavors are meaty and abv: 14% Price: $26 ly balances smoky, bacony notes against those of - savory, not simply fruity, while the texture is lush. One coated ripe cherries. It’s a winning combination that fin- of the best examples of Peg Bay Pinot Noir in memory, Jules Taylor 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ ishes long and elegantly. Drink now–2020. Broadbent it finishes long, framed by supple tannins. Drink now– 90 ough). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Selections, Inc. —J.C. 2020. Meadowbank Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Choice. abv: 14% Price: $31 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $20 The Crossings 2010 Pinot Noir (Awa­ Saint Clair 2010 Omaka Reserve Pinot Mt. Difficulty 2011 Roaring Meg Pinot 90 tere Valley). This label has had its ups and 91 Noir (Marlborough). One of the top offer- 90 Noir (Central Otago). Mt. Difficulty’s Pi- downs over the years. The 2010 Pinot Noir is one of ings from Saint Clair is invariably its Omaka Reserve. nots have resisted the trend toward ever-softer textures, the successes, and it boasts an effusive nose of roses, The 2010 features blackberry and cola notes that are even in this, the winery’s entry-level bottling. Instead, cherries, dusty earth and mocha. It’s medium to full in accented by a hickory smoke tone, a harmonious and the wine is firmly structured. Savory, dark-skinned plum the mouth, delivering cherry fruit and underpinnings of supple texture and a moderately long finish. Ready to fruit is accented by plenty of briary spice. Drink from earth and spice. The finish is long, spicy and firm with- drink now, the wine should easily last another few years. 2014–2020. American Estates Wines, Inc. Editors’ out being hard. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Edi- Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. Choice. —J.C. tors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $19

Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 22 Barn Mt. Difficulty 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Tohu 2010 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 Block Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Saint 90 Otago). This wine’s black cherry and earth 90 (Marlborough). Tohu is a wine company Clair’s Pioneer Block wines are always worth trying for notes are enticing, and the spice and mocha finish is in- owned by New Zealand’s indigenous peoples, the Mao- their expressions of Marlborough’s subregional charac- triguing, but right now the tannins are still a bit firm. ri. The wines have been mixed over the years, but this is ters. This one, from deep clay soils at the foot of the Dry Give this medium-bodied Pinot Noir another year or an excellent bottling. It boasts a full, ample mouthfeel Hills, features a bold cherry aroma and flavor, backed by two to mellow, then enjoy it over the next 5–6 years. and plenty of supple tannins. Black cherry fruit marries ample vanilla and baking spice notes. It’s big and slightly American Estates Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. well with complex savory notes, while hints of pome- chunky in style, but it seems likely to smooth out over abv: 14% Price: $45 granate brighten the aromas. Drink now. Total Bever- the next 12 months as the dusty tannins subside. Wine- age Solution. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. sellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Nautilus 2009 Four Barriques Pinot Noir abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 (Marlborough). This limited-production wine is complex and savory, and it features notes of beets, sous bois and cherries, layered with touches of creamy

42 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Pinot cherry note and a slightly medicinal green-herb edge. for Cabernet lovers. Drink now. Constellation Brands, 90 Noir (Marlborough). For full review see page Tart and long on the finish, this wine appears to have Inc. —J.C. 8. the potential to mature gracefully through 2020. Verity abv: 15% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Wine Partners. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $32 Seresin 2009 Leah Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Brancott 2010 Terraces T Pinot Noir 88 ough). Seresin’s 2009 Leah is already mature. 89 (Marlborough). Brancott’s top Pinot Noir is Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Pinot Noir An evolved, earthy aroma of fresh compost adds a layer a round, mouth-filling wine that finishes tart and long. 89 (Marlborough). For full review see page 9. of interest to the pretty cherry fruit. As the name sug- Cranberry, mocha, roasted parsnip, mushroom and Editors’ Choice. gests, this is a delicate, feminine style, with silky tannins smoke notes make for a complex wine that may be en- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and restrained weight. Drink now. The Sorting Table. joyed now and over the next several years. Pernod Ri- —J.C. card. —J.C. Wither Hills 2010 Wairau Valley Pinot abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 89 Noir (Marlborough). Despite starting off with some stalky-woody aromas and a healthy dash of Urlar 2010 Pinot Noir (Wairarapa). For full Cloudy Bay 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ hickory smoke, this wine turns fruity and approachable 88 review see page 9. 89 ough). New Zealand’s best known winery does on the palate. Strawberry and cherry notes are accented abv: 14% Price: $22 a consistently good job with the Burgundian varieties, by twig and herb touches, while the texture is supple not just Sauvignon Blanc. The chunky, medium-bod- and the finish is long. Drink now–2017. Distinguished Villa Maria 2010 Taylors Pass Vineyard ied 2010 Pinot Noir displays ample intensity, length Vineyards & Wine Partners. —J.C. 88 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This is filled with and complexity. Its savory style shows dark cherry fruit, abv: 13.5% Price: $22 bright, bold cherry fruit, and it will be interesting to see with hints of mocha and grilled meat. Drink now–2020. if this wine develops additional complexities with age. Gregory White PR. —J.C. Cairnbrae 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Right now, it’s a bit one-dimensional, although it does abv: 14% Price: $35 88 ough). Round in the mouth and creamy in have some pretty nuances of pollen and cocoa on the texture, this wine’s ripe cherry fruit is softly framed by nose and a silky texture on the palate. Ste. Michelle Dashwood 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ brown sugar, caramel and cinnamon notes. Drink now– Wine Estates. —J.C. 89 ough). Dashwood’s 2010 Pinot Noir offers 2018. Station Imports Inc. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $44 complex aromas and flavors of roses, ripe cherries, cin- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 namon and nutmeg. It’s rather full bodied and a bit Voss 2010 Pinot Noir (Martinborough). dusty on the finish without being excessively drying. Clifford Bay Estate 2010 Pinot Noir (Marl­ 88 Endowed with ample tannin, this may be one Drink it over the next few years. Pasternak Wine Im- 88 borough). This chunky, beefy Pinot Noir of- New Zealand Pinot Noir that requires additional bottle ports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. fers plenty of flavor for a realistic price. Hints of smoke, age. That said, positive future evolution is by no means abv: 14% Price: $16 violet and tomato leaf add complexity to the black cher- guaranteed. Its dark, savory style is one that combines ry fruit. The finish is long and lightly dusted with tan- black cherry fruit with notes of roasted meat and dark Nautilus 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). nins. Drink now. Foley Family Wines. Editors’ Choice. coffee. Drink from 2016–2020. Empson (USA) Ltd. 89 This is a delicate but flavorful wine. It starts off —J.C. —J.C. with smoky, beet-like aromas, while the flavors are of abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $40 pie cherries, with herb overtones. It’s medium bodied, with a tart finish. Drink now–2018. Negociants USA, Eradus 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Brancott 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Inc. —J.C. 88 Although this wine doesn’t fit the Marlborough 87 Not overly concentrated or extracted, this is a abv: 14% Price: $29 stereotype, it is pretty, delicate and complex. Hints of plump, medium-bodied Pinot Noir that should have decaying leaves add an intriguing layer of interest to the broad appeal for its cherry and cinnamon aromas and Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 15 Strip peppery strawberry-rhubarb fruit. The tannins are sup- flavors and reasonable price. It’s clean and refreshing on 89 Block Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The fruit ple enough to suggest drinking this wine over the next the finish, which is anchored by hints of mocha. Drink for this provocatively named bottling is sourced from few years. Rad Grapes. —J.C. now. Pernod Ricard. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. the lower Waihopai, or “Spy Valley” section of Marl- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $14 borough. It’s a medium-bodied, supple wine that places the emphasis on earthy notes of beetroot and clove, and Jawbone 2007 Reserve Selection Pinot Dog Point 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ then adds in cherry fruit and vanillin. Long, savory and 88 Noir (Marlborough). This is an unusual New 87 ough). Despite having a lovely, silky texture, spicy on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. Zealand Pinot Noir in that it spent 36 months in oak this wine is slightly disappointing given its pedigree. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $30 prior to bottling. The result is a mature, ready-to-drink already bricking in color, and it offers evolved notes of wine, with delicate, silky tannins and modest fruit fla- earth, leather and charred beetroot and a lingering fin- Spy Valley 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ vors. The oak isn’t dominant, but there is a smoky flavor ish. Drink now. Vintus LLC. —J.C. 89 ough). Although the winery is best known for element, along with hints of dried herb, briar patch and abv: 14% Price: $41 top-flight aromatic whites, Spy Valley’s Pinot Noir is mushroom. Jawbone Winery and Vineyards. —J.C. steadily improving, and the 2011 is a notable success. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Saint Clair 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Plummy fruit is accented by hints of toasty oak and 87 ough). One of the nice things about this Pinot damp moss, balanced by crisp acids and delivered on Mt. Beautiful 2011 Pinot Noir (Canter­ Noir is that despite the considerable quantities pro- a soft, creamy palate. Ready to drink now, but the wine 88 bury). This is a silky, medium-bodied Pinot duced (17,000 cases), it doesn’t seem forced in any way. should also comfortably go another four years. Broad- Noir that’s ready to drink. Pleasant cherry fruit is joined It’s medium bodied and silky, with aromas and flavors of bent Selections, Inc. —J.C. by hints of twig and earth, and a touch of mocha emerg- maraschino cherries and button mushrooms that leave a abv: 14% Price: $31 es on the finish. Mt. Beautiful USA. —J.C. pretty, delicate impression behind on the palate. Wine­ abv: 13.5% Price: $24 sellers Ltd. —J.C. Staete Landt 2010 Paladin Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $22 89 (Marlborough). Staete Landt’s upscale Pinot Nobilo 2010 Icon Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Noir eschews dark color and extraction in favor of light- 88 ough). This medium- to full-bodied Pinot Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 14 Doc­ er body and soft tannins. Leather, cranberry and cocoa Noir displays toasted cedar, vanilla bean and chocolaty 87 tor’s Creek Pinot Noir (Marlborough). De- aromas lead the way, followed on the palate by a pie espresso notes, which are all layered over a modicum spite possibly being the least complex of Saint Clair’s of plummy fruit. It’s oaky but satisfying—a Pinot Noir 2010 Pioneer Block Pinots, this medium-bodied wine

WineMag.com | 43 has crisp acids and mouthwatering flavors of black cher- ony—on the finish, and it has a dusty layer of tannins to Framingham’s Pinot Noir is solid but unexciting. It’s ries and fresh herbs. It’s fresh, clean and invites sip after ensure that it lasts for at least a few years. The Sorting plump and medium bodied, and it offers modest cher- sip. Drink now–2016. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. Table. —J.C. ry fruit and a touch of bitterness on the finish. Evaton, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $23 Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $28 Ten Sisters 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Omaka Springs 2009 Falveys Pinot Noir 87 ough). Made in an attractive, drink-now style, 86 (Marlborough). This is pale in color, with Fusional 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). this light- to medium-bodied Pinot Noir showcases a light body and a silky texture. Cranberry and mush- 85 This medium-bodied Pinot features slightly dry pretty raspberry and strawberry fruit that is framed by room flavors are varietally correct, and a hint of mocha tannins, but otherwise delivers attractive aromas and fresh-cut cedar and soft tannins. Bartow Imports. —J.C. appears on the finish. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. flavors of dark cherries and button mushrooms, joined abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —J.C. by hints of earth and spice. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 —J.C. Vavasour 2010 Pinot Noir (Awatere Val­ abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 ley). Drawn from the Awatere Valley sub­ Oyster Bay 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ region, this is a chunky, full-bodied Pinot Noir. Oak 86 ough). At 50,000 cases imported, this must be Kim Crawford 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ is prominent, in the form of toast, vanilla and graham one of the most ubiquitous New Zealand Pinots in the 85 ough). Part of Constellation’s extensive sta- cracker notes, while the fruit is grapy. This wine shows United States. It’s medium bodied and tightly wound, ble of New Zealand brands, Kim Crawford’s medium-­ decent length; the finish is cushioned by soft tannins with a crisp core of mouthwatering acidity that adds zest bodied 2010 Pinot Noir is a charming effort. The straw­ and is pointed up by tart acids. Drink over the next year to the flavors of dark cherry, earth and leather. Drink berry and raspberry notes are bright and cheerfully or two. Foley Family Wines. —J.C. now. Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C. fruity on the nose and on the palate, although it finishes abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 quickly. Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $19 Yealands 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Ponga 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 87 This is a lightweight Pinot Noir with seductive 86 This is a pretty solid value for the price, as long Matua Valley 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ aromas of pie cherries and dusty roses, and a delicate, as you don’t mind plenty of oak influence. A cedary note 85 ough). Pale in color, this light-bodied Pinot almost lacy, texture. It’s the kind of pretty, silky Pinot dominates the nose and casts a long shadow across the Noir is appropriately supple in texture and offers mod- that would be at home with chicken and fish dishes. cherry-stained palate, imparting a vanilla flavor and est berry and chocolate notes. The finish is surprisingly Drink now. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. some drying tannins along the way. Despite that, there’s long, but a bit lemony. Drink now. Treasury Wine Es- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ample length and a mouthwatering quality to the finish. tates. —J.C. Drink now. The Vintner Group. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Ara 2011 Select Blocks Single Estate abv: 13.5% Price: $16 86 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The Ara project Opawa 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). has yet to realize its considerable potential. This high- Seifried 2009 Old Coach Road Pinot Noir 85 A pale, crisp, cranberryish rendering of Pinot end bottling is a solid, middle-of-the-road Marlborough 86 (Nelson). Light in weight and lacy in texture, Noir, this is the sort of light-bodied, red-fruited Pinot Pinot Noir, and it displays subdued aromas of dust-­ this is a savory, subtly flavored Pinot Noir that’s ready that could be served with salmon or other fish dishes. coated cherries, with modestly concentrated flavors of to drink. Notes of smoke, mushrooms and dried herbs Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. cherry and earth and a medium-length finish. Drink it intertwine with tart fruit. American Wine Distributors. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 over the next few years. Ara Wines International. —J.C. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $20 Saint Clair 2011 Vicar’s Choice Pinot 85 Noir (Marlborough). A simple, cherry-driven Clos Henri 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Staete Landt 2010 Map Maker Pinot Noir example of Marlborough Pinot Noir, this medium-bod- 86 ough). Smoke, cedar and vanilla notes mark 86 (Marlborough). Brown sugar and cinnamon ied wine doesn’t offer much richness, depth or texture, the nose of this medium-bodied wine. There’s just notes mark the nose of this medium-bodied Pinot Noir. yet pleases for its purity of fruit. Drink it over the next enough plummy fruit to support the oak on the mid- On the palate, it’s supple in texture, while the flavors year or so. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. palate, but the wood takes charge again on the finish. run toward overripe black cherries, with a hint of al- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Drink it over the next year or two before the fruit sub- falfa. Clean and crisp on the finish. Verity Wine Part- sides. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —J.C. ners. —J.C. Vinterra 2010 Pinot Noir (South Island). abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $20 85 A basic, serviceable Pinot Noir, Vinterra’s 2010 combines varietally correct notes of cherry, leather Fernz 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The Crater Rim 2010 Pinot Noir (Canter­ and earth. The medium-weight palate and supple tan- 86 This modest Pinot Noir is pale in color and light 86 bury). A delicate, lacy style of Pinot Noir, with nins stay true to the variety as well. Kysela Père et Fils. in body, but don’t discount it. Pretty notes of strawber- pretty rhubarb-like herbal shadings to the cranberry —J.C. ries are attractively underlined by hints of twigs and co- and strawberry fruit, extremely supple tannins and hints abv: 13.5% Price: $19 coa. It turns more cranberry-like and slightly astringent of cocoa and coffee on the abbreviated finish. Drink on the finish. Drink now. G.K. Skaggs, Inc.. —J.C. now. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. Clos Henri 2011 Bel Echo : Grey­ abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $20 84 wacke Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This es- tate’s Old World roots (it is owned by -based Giesen 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Ara 2011 Pathway Single Estate Pinot Henri Bourgeois) show in this wine’s restrained fruit 86 This moderately pale wine doesn’t show a lot of 85 Noir (Marlborough). This medium-bodied and marginal ripeness. Notes of rhubarb and tomato concentration or tannic structure, but it offers charming Pinot Noir isn’t particularly soft or silky, but it does offer leaf mark the nose, and the palate is lean and sinewy. notes of cherry, clove and cinnamon. Drink now. Drey- copious amounts of crunchy cherry and raspberry fruit, Slocum & Sons, Inc. —J.C. fus, Ashby & Co. —J.C. dressed up by a hint of mocha-like oak. Drink now. Ara abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Wines International. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Clos Henri 2011 Petit Clos Pinot Noir 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 84 (Marlborough). Owned by the same Henri 86 This entry-level offering from Seresin offers a Framingham 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Bourgeois family that produces a dizzying array of Loire pleasing blend of root veggies and mushrooms, with 85 ough). Despite this estate remaining among wines, this tastes a bit like a Loire wine. It’s lean and cranberry and raspberry fruit. It’s crisp—almost lem- the top echelon of New Zealand Riesling producers, tart in style, with barely ripe fruit that is accented by

44 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 herbal notes and a crisp finish. Drink now. Slocum & vors are accented by leather and dark chocolate notes. acids on the finish. Drink now and over the next year or Sons, Inc. —J.C. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. two. South Pacific Wines. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $18

Cottesbrook 2010 Pinot Noir (South Is­ Martin’s Rake 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Estate 2010 Merlot (Hawke’s 84 land). A hint of adhesive bandage on the nose 82 ough). This relatively lightweight Pinot Noir 85 Bay). Mission Estate’s latest releases include casts a sweaty note over the otherwise pretty tones of features an array of meaty, earthy notes and a modest this herb-tinged Merlot, which displays tobacco and violets and cherries. On the palate, the wine is medium pie-cherry flavor before drying out and turning even tomato-like notes that are layered over modest cherry bodied, and it’s tart and tangy on the finish. Drink now. more tart on the finish. Drink now. Winery Exchange. fruit. Drink this medium-bodied, supple wine over the Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C. —J.C. next two years. Station Imports Inc. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $16

Fire Road 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ Sileni 2011 Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 84 ough). Light and refreshing in style, this wine 82 (Hawke’s Bay). A lightweight but earthy style cabernets & blends boasts slightly confected cherry fruit amplified by bright of Pinot, this offers a faint cherry flavor and dark choc- Man O’ War 2009 Ironclad (Waiheke Is­ acidity. It’s straightforward and relatively simple; drink olate and coffee hints on the fast-fading finish. Drink land). This powerful, intense Bordeaux-style it over the next year or so. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. now. Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. 92 blend includes (in decreasing amounts) Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $15 Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sau- vignon. The wine is richly textured, and it offers ripe Martinborough Vineyard 2011 Russian boysenberry and cassis fruit, layered with supple tan- Jack Pinot Noir (Martinborough). From syrah 84 nins and smoky oak. Approachable now, but it will prob- one of the region’s pioneering producers, this is an en- Man O’ War 2009 Dreadnought Syrah ably be better in five years, and it could still be going try-level bottling that manages to provide a glimpse into (Waiheke Island). Man O’ War’s 2008 Dread- strong in 10 years. Pinnacle Wine Vault LLC. —J.C. the Martinborough style. It favors leafy, savory elements 90 nought put the winery on the map, and, although not abv: 14.5% Price: $45 over overt fruitiness, offering hints of sun-baked brick, quite as dramatic, the 2009 is a worthy successor. Aro- bracken and cracked pepper that are layered over mod- mas are lifted, peppery and cherry-filled, while the fla- Mission Estate 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ est cherry fruit. Although silky in texture, it lacks length. vor nuances include smoke and pepper-cured meats. gnon (Hawke’s Bay). Somehow, Mission Es- Drink now. The Sorting Table. —J.C. 89 The wine is medium bodied and is marked by silky tan- tate has managed to produce a prototypical Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $24 nins and crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Pinnacle Wine for a price that should leave consumers smiling. Cassis, Vault LLC. —J.C. tobacco and cedar notes pick up a mocha shading on the Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 16 Awa­ abv: 14.5% Price: $45 long, mouthwatering finish. It’s a soft, supple wine that tere Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Most of 84 can be consumed over the next five years. Station Im- Saint Clair’s Pioneer Block offerings are excellent, but Mission Estate 2010 Syrah (Hawke’s ports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. the 2011 Block 16 from the Awatere comes across as Bay). Think Crozes-Hermitage and you’ll have abv: 13% Price: $16 a simple, fruit-driven Pinot Noir. A punched-up cher- 87 a reasonable idea of what this wine is about: White pep- ry note dominates, leaving little room for complexity or per and cherry aromas and flavors, medium body with- Man O’ War 2009 Merlot-Cabernet (Wai­ structure. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. out being overly rich or textured and a crisp, peppery heke Island). This “white label” blend is broad abv: 13.5% Price: $30 88 finish. Drink it over the next couple of years with burg- and lush, and it offers typical Bordeaux-blend aromas ers and the like. Station Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. and flavors of plum, cassis and cigar box. A mocha note Staete Landt 2009 Paladin Pinot Noir —J.C. comes through on the softly tannic finish. Drink now (Marlborough). Fully mature, this light- to 84 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 and over the next few years. Pinnacle Wine Vault LLC. medium-bodied wine shows an evolved color, modest —J.C. cherry fruit and prominent notes of rusty iron and dusty abv: 14.5% Price: $29 earth. Drink now. Verity Wine Partners. —J.C. merlot abv: 14% Price: $32 Craggy Range 2010 Te Kahu Gimblett Saint Clair 2010 Rapaura Reserve Merlot Gravels Vineyard Merlot-Cabernet Franc- Woollaston 2010 Pinot Noir (Nelson). (Marlborough). A rare Marlborough Merlot, 87 87 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec (Hawke’s Bay). The This medium-bodied Pinot Noir is oaky. It starts this is a superficially charming wine that shows cassis 84 2010 vintage of Te Kahu is 80% Merlot, with only sin- off with smoky, meaty, hickory notes and never really in- fruit and lashings of smoky, cedary oak. It does lack a bit gle-digit percentages of the other varieties. It’s a darkly corporates them smoothly into the modest cherry fruit, of richness, particularly on the finish, but it scores for its fruited wine, with notes of black cherry and blackberry and it adds a mocha note on the slightly tough finish. A upfront display of ripe fruit and toasty oak. Winesellers that are impeccably clean and precise. Drink this silky- grilled steak might help bring out the wine’s fruity side. Ltd. —J.C. textured, medium-bodied wine over the next five years. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Kobrand. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $29 Oyster Bay 2011 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay). abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Awatere River 2009 Marlborough Vine­ 86 This wine is crisp, medium bodied and surpris- 83 yard Reserve Pinot Noir (Marlborough). ingly firm for an inexpensive Merlot. Drink this wine california Already showing appreciable bricking in color, this is an over the next year or two for its potent cassis and black earthy, rooty style of Pinot Noir. It retains ample body, cherry fruit. Some rare beef will help show the wine to and it finishes slightly chunky and charred. Drink now. best effect. Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C. chardonnay Verity Wine Partners. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Saralee’s abv: 14% Price: $32 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Val­ Crossroads 2010 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay). 94 ley). It’s easy to create ripe, oaky wines, but attaining Wairau River 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor­ 85 This shows the herbal side of Merlot, as it deals true complexity is something else. This Chardonnay, ough). 83 Lean and wiry in style, this pale Pinot tobacco and cherry tomato flavors in addition to cassis. which was made from fruit sourced from a highly re- Noir stands out as being different from most Marlbor- It’s medium in body, and it has a silky texture and crisp garded vineyard in the cool mid-southern part of the ough bottlings. Modest strawberry and cranberry fla- Russian River Valley, is elaborate, dry and rich in green

WineMag.com | 45 apple, mango and orange flavors. The acidity is just Solomon Hills 2010 Chardonnay (Santa vors. It wasn’t aged in oak, and the malolactic fermen- about perfect, giving the palate a tart zinginess. Drink 92 Maria Valley). For full review see page 6. tation was blocked. The result is a clean, vibrant and this with lobster and crab, and don’t forget the buttered abv: 13.9% Price: $43 mouthwatering selection. —S.H. bread. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $34 abv: 14.4% Price: $32 Steven Kent 2010 Merrillie, Landucci 92 Block Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Al- Del Dotto 2010 Cinghiale Vineyard Char­ Chanin 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char­ though the 2010 vintage was cooler than the previous 89 donnay (Sonoma Coast). A rich effort, this 93 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). This Char- two years, this Chardonnay still offers rich and luscious offers ripe pear, citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Inter- donnay is dry and offers brilliant acidity. At first, it’s aus- notes of crème caramel and baked pear. The intoxicat- esting notes of mushrooms and dried fruits are begin- tere, but then the core of citrus and tropical fruits be- ing bouquet picks up layers of lemon zest and mineral. ning to emerge, although that might indicate the wine’s comes apparent and intense. The nervy acidity leads to —V.B. limited ageability. Drink over the next 1–2 years. —S.H. a tight, zesty finish. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 abv: NA Price: $85 abv: 12.8% Price: $35 Testarossa 2011 Dos Rubios Vineyard Fess Parker 2011 Ashley’s Chardonnay Del Dotto 2010 Cinghiale Vineyard Re­ 91 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 89 (Sta. Rita Hills). Despite the rich, buttery, 93 serve Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This Testarossa­ purchases fruit, but this wine was made from toasty oak notes, this wine stands up to the barrel in- wine has great structure, with tart acidity and firm min- fruit sourced from the winery’s own vineyard. This is fluence with its strong tropical fruit and pear flavors, as erality that bolsters the flavors of pear and orange. It ultraclean­ and crisp in acidity, and it offers flavors of well as its brisk acidity and stony minerality. It’s ready to feels racy and elegant all the way through. —S.H. tropical fruit and an overlay of oak. Drink now. —S.H. drink now with rich fare like lobsters or scallops. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $125 abv: 14.1% Price: $39 abv: 14.3% Price: $35

Kenneth Volk 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Benovia 2010 Chardonnay (Fort Ross- Mahoney 2011 Gavin Vineyard Chardon­ 93 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Rich 90 Seaview). With it’s brisk acidity and tangy 89 nay (Carneros). This Chardonnay is dry, with and ripe, this wine has flavors of tangerines, nectarines minerality that gird the Asian pear and tropical fruit fla- vibrant acidity and tangy, mineral-infused flavors of and limes, which are brightened by crisp acidity. The vors, this wine expresses its coastal origin as well as the stone and earth. It shows subtle notes of Meyer lemons, oak influence shows in the form of buttered toast and cool vintage. It feels streamlined and elegant. —S.H. limes and tangerines. Don’t drink this too cold. —S.H. honey notes. It should develop in the bottle over the abv: 14.1% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $22 next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Hirsch 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Sonoma Nottingham Cellars 2011 Chardonnay 90 Coast). Big and bold, this Chardonnay is made 89 (Arroyo Seco). Nottingham Cellars, which Martinelli 2009 Three Sisters Vineyard from fruit sourced from the winery’s estate vineyard in is known for producing wines from Bordeaux varieties, 93 Sea Ridge Meadow Chardonnay (So­ the new Fort Ross-Seaview appellation. This under- has produced its first set of whites in 2011. This Char- noma Coast). Complex and nuanced, this Chardon- went barrel fermentation, and donnay is earthy, and it offers a crisp lemony character nay is beginning to lose its primary fruit flavors of pears lees aging, and the result is a rich selection that offers and hints of nut and pear. —V.B. and tropical fruits, and it’s becoming dry and mush- flavors of lemon and tropical fruit, buttered toast and abv: 13.9% Price: $24 roomy. The sweet oak tones are also an integral part of cream. Almost too assertive now, it needs a year or two the profile. A subtle wine that is compatible with food, to resolve. —S.H. Vino V 2010 Solomon Hills VIneyard it should last for another 3–4 years. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $55 89 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Ripe abv: 14.1% Price: $60 and juicy, this has flavors of tangerine and tropical MacRostie 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma fruit, plus notes of creamy lees and smoky, sweet oak. Kazmer & Blaise 2010 Boon’s Fly Hill 90 Coast). For full review see page 8. Editors’ It would feel heavy if not for the brisk acidity that pro- 92 Chardonnay (Carneros). Zippy, zesty acid- Choice. vides balance and elegance. —S.H. ity balances the ripe pear, lime and tropical fruit flavors. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 13.3% Price: $36 There are also rich streaks of buttered toast and vanilla bean from having matured in oak, as well as a yeasti- Melville 2011 Estate Verna’s Chardonnay Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch ness from having aged on its lees. Dry and complex, this 90 (Santa Barbara County). While this Char- 88 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This wine is meant to be consumed with crab and buttered donnay has rich tropical fruit and citrus flavors, with a Chardonnay has crisp acidity, plus notes of pineapple- bread. —S.H. light touch of oak, the acidity and minerality make it orange jam, vanilla custard and lees. For drinking now, abv: 14.1% Price: $50 taste clean and balanced. Don’t drink it too cold, and be this will pair well with shellfish. —S.H. sure to enjoy it with Dungeness crab and buttered sour- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 La Rochelle 2010 Dutton Ranch Morelli dough bread. —S.H. 92 Lane Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). abv: 14% Price: $24 Geyser Peak 2010 Block Collection Wa­ Upfront citrus, tropical fruit, peach and apple flavors 88 ter Bend Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). mark this rich Chardonnay, plus notes of buttered toast Smith-Madrone 2010 Estate Bottled This is a complex Chardonnay, with flavors of honey, and caramel. The opulence is balanced by crisp acidity 90 Chardonnay (Spring Mountain). For full tangerine, apricot and toffee that are balanced by the and stony minerality. —S.H. review see page 8. Cellar Selection. crisp, citrusy acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.1% Price: $18

Martinelli 2009 Charles Ranch Chardon­ The Mission 2011 Chardonnay (Arroyo Horse & Plow 2011 McFadden Farm 92 nay (Sonoma Coast). This opulent wine 90 Seco). This tastes bone dry, with cleansing 88 Chardonnay (Mendocino). Made from fruit opens with a blast of buttered toast and tropical fruit acidity and firm minerality. It offers subtle layers of sourced from McFadden’s certified-organic vineyard, aromas. The flavors are complex, with swirls of pineap- green apples, figs and tropical fruits, plus an edge of this bright Chardonnay is a zesty mix of kiwi, lime and ple, pear, yeast, toast and cinnamon. Drink now–2015. sweet vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fig flavors that are layered with acidity. —V.B. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 13.4% Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $48 Transcendence 2011 Zotovich Vineyard Keenan 2011 Chardonnay (Spring Moun­ 90 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). This Char- 88 tain). With its keen acidity and mineral-domi- donnay has ripe, rich tangerine, pear and pineapple fla- nated flavors, this currently tastes a bit austere. It also

46 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 has a core of orange, apricot and mango flavors that are cious peach and vanilla custard, butterscotch and toast. balances the seemingly sweet flavors of pineapple-or- sweetened by oak. Don’t drink it too cold, and allow it Brisk acidity enlivens the palate. —S.H. ange jam, vanilla bean and buttered toast. This is an to breathe before consuming. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $22 affordable introduction to the fine Chardonnays from abv: 13.9% Price: $31 this well-regarded Santa Barbara County appellation. Ricochet 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma —S.H. La Fenêtre 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard 87 Coast). This is a flavorful, slightly heavy-­ abv: 14.1% Price: $20 88 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This has feeling Chardonnay that offers ripe flavors of apricots, brisk, tingly acidity and rich, toasty new oak flavors, plus tropical fruits and pineapple cream. Although it’s dry, Fess Parker 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard mineral and fruit notes. Try this in 2015 as it could be- it has a honeyed accent, especially on the spicy finish. 85 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). come surprisingly complex. Cellar Selection. —S.H. —S.H. This tastes strongly oaked, and it shows in the form of abv: 14.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 buttered toast and caramel notes. The flavors of mango, pear and apricot meld with the brisk acidity and firm La Fenêtre 2010 Los Alamos Vineyard Wellington 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma minerality. —S.H. 88 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). 87 Valley). Ripe orange, lime and honey flavors abv: 13.6% Price: $35 Trading opulence for elegance, this Chardonnay tastes combine with tingly, mouth-watering acidity to give dry and streamlined, with tart acidity. It’s spicy, fresh this dry Chardonnay a sweet-and-sour taste. It’s an easy Fess Parker 2011 Sierra Madre Vine­ and lithe, and it offers subtle citrus and flower notes. wine to drink with mushroom risotto, shrimp, 85 yard Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Coun­ This should develop creamy, nutty tones over the next chicken fajitas. —S.H. ty). With all of the buttered toast, buttered popcorn six years. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $20 and butterscotch flavors, this Chardonnay’s fruit isn’t abv: 13.9% Price: $34 allowed to speak. It has brisk acidity and rich tanger- Alderbrook 2010 Chardonnay (Russian ine and mango flavors, but the winemaker’s hand feels Nottingham Cellars 2011 Fraser-Howard 86 River Valley). Made in the popular style, this heavy. —S.H. 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Val­ has flavors of buttered toast, orange, peach, Meyer lem- abv: 14.3% Price: $35 ley). This has a rich note of caramel, plus undertones on and vanilla bean, which are brightened by crisp acid- of baked apple and tropical fruit. The acidity is keen ity. Drink now. —S.H. Gregory Graham 2011 Wedge Block and the finish is long, with vanilla and butter notes. It’s abv: 13.8% Price: $24 85 Chardonnay (Lake County). Gregory Gra- aged in 40% new French oak, and it has the roundness ham’s first Lake County Chardonnay, this wine has to show for it. —V.B. Chateau St. Jean 2010 Belle Terre Vine­ notes of vanilla custard, lemon and toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 86 yard Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). Rich abv: 14.2% Price: $25 and oaky, this wine’s buttered toast and buttered pop- Bacigalupi 2011 Chardonnay (Russian corn flavors are the main attraction. You’ll also find a Leese-Fitch 2011 Chardonnay (Califor­ 87 River Valley). Flavors of sweet, smoky oak; pineapple-orange jam note, plus a vanilla-like sweet- 85 nia). Rich, savory and seemingly slightly sweet, ripe, forward tropical fruit; and creamy lees mark this ness. —S.H. this Chardonnay has acidity that provides balance to the Chardonnay. It’s made in the modern, voluptuous style. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 rich flavors of tangerines, golden mangoes, limes and —S.H. honey. Drink this with Chinese or Vietnamese fare. abv: 14% Price: $56 Flocchini 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma —S.H. 86 Coast). This has apricot, orange and Meyer abv: 13.8% Price: $12 Donati 2011 Sorelle Per Sempre Sisters lemon notes, plus a sweet toastiness. It will appeal to 87 Forever Un-Oaked Chardonnay (Central consumers who enjoy Charonnays with a buttercream- River Road Vineyards 2011 Un-Oaked Coast). This tastes like a fruit juice blend of pineap- like smoothness and a buttered popcorn flavor. —S.H. 85 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). This un­ ples, oranges, mangoes and apricots. The acidity makes abv: 12.8% Price: $30 oaked effort sure tastes sweet, with flavors of sugared it taste bright and crisp. —S.H. orange, mango and . The acidity is fine, giv- abv: 13.7% Price: $16 Four Vines 2011 Naked Unoaked Char­ ing balance to the sweetness. —S.H. 86 donnay (Santa Barbara County). For full abv: 12.4% Price: $14 Geyser Peak 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma review see page 10. Best Buy. 87 County). For full review see page 10. Best abv: 13.9% Price: $10 Cru 2011 Appellation Series Chardonnay Buy. 84 (Santa Lucia Highlands). This Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Patland 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). has brisk, crisp acidity and flavors of pineapple, orange 86 Dry and oaky, this Chardonnay offers herb-in- and mango. There are dominating notes of buttered Kokomo 2011 Peters Vineyard Chardon­ flected pineapple and pear flavors. —S.H. toast and sweet butterscotch. —S.H. 87 nay (Russian River Valley). Dry, acidic and abv: 14.4% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 a little earthy, this shows elegance and restraint. With a medium level of alcohol and subtle citrus and min- River Road Vineyards 2011 Reserve Cru 2011 Vineyard Montage Chardonnay eral flavors, this wine is ready to drink now with roasted 86 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This 84 (Monterey County). Although new oak ac- chicken or grilled salmon. —S.H. presents the opulence that many Chardonnay fans en- counts for only 10% of the barrels used, the oak influ- abv: 13.1% Price: $28 joy. It bears flavors of caramel, orange, pineapple, tapi- ence dominates. Flavors of buttered toast, butterscotch oca, vanilla, honey and cinnamon, which are wrapped in and vanilla ride over the note of pineapple-orange jam. Kopriva 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay a creamy texture. —S.H. The best thing about the wine is its brisk, clean acid- 87 (Carneros). The malolactic fermentation on abv: 13.7% Price: $19 ity. —S.H. this unoaked wine was blocked, so this is brimming with abv: 14.1% Price: $23 pure orange and lime flavors. The acidity is brisk and Shadowbox 2010 Orchard Vineyard clean. —S.H. 86 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Dry and acidic, Picket Fence 2011 Chardonnay (Russian abv: 13.3% Price: $18 this Chardonnay has a herbaceous earthiness, plus fla- 84 River Valley). Seemingly sweet and simple, vors of orange and pear. —S.H. this has flavors of candied orange, peach and tropical Mercy 2009 Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). abv: 14.2% Price: $40 fruit. A brisk hit of acidity provides much-needed bal- 87 Rich and oaky, this Chardonnay is pretty much ance. —S.H. as good as Mercy’s more expensive single-vineyard bot- Three Saints 2010 Chardonnay (Santa abv: 13.5% Price: $16 tlings. It feels creamy and smooth, and it tastes of lus- 86 Maria Valley). The brisk acidity on this wine

WineMag.com | 47 Barra of Mendocino 2010 Chardonnay It’s a fine choice to pair with Asian fare or to enjoy on its /grigio 83 (Mendocino). This is a light, bright Chardon- own as an apéritif. —V.B. nay that would be a great wine to serve at casual din- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Trenton ing situations or at larger gatherings. The finish bears an 90 Station Vineyard Pinot Gris (Russian Riv­ acidic kick —V.B. Girasole Vineyards 2011 Pinot Blanc er Valley). One of the best Californian Pinot Gris cur- abv: 14% Price: $18 86 (Mendocino). Straightforward, balanced and rently available, this is rich, creamy and complex, and it light, this Pinot Blanc would pair well with fresh shell- would make for a great alternative to Chardonnay. This Peacock Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (Cen­ fish, and it would also make for a nice apéritif. A quick wine traditionally ages in used oak, which imparts just a 82 tral Coast). Caramelized oak and tangerine jolt of almond appears on the finish. —V.B. hint of wood-driven sweetness to the pear, peach, man- jam flavors give this Chardonnay a honeyed sweetness abv: 13.5% Price: $13 go and lime flavors. —S.H. that would appeal consumers who enjoy modern-style abv: 14.5% Price: $22 wines. The high alcohol gives it a peppery burn. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $20 gewÜrztraminer Geyser Peak 2012 Pinot Grigio (Califor­ Philo Ridge 2010 Ferrington Vineyard 89 nia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. Pennywise 2011 Chardonnay (Califor­ Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley). Made abv: 13% Price: $10 nia). This smells and tastes like vanilla, mango 89 82 from fruit sourced from the mighty Ferrington Vine- and honeysuckle. While the alcohol level is relatively yard, this tank-fermented Gewürztraminer is crafted Navarro 2011 Pinot Gris (Anderson Val­ modest, it is apparent. —S.H. without oak or malolactic fermentation. The result is 89 ley). This cool-climate Pinot Gris is balanced abv: 13.4% Price: $12 a light, lemony and floral wine, with moderate acidity and light, and it offers refreshing layers of citrus, al- and a note of chai tea on the finish that lends an exotic mond and peach. It will pair with goat cheese and sea- viognier edge. —V.B. food-based appetizers, and it will also be enjoyed on its abv: 14.1% Price: $19 own —V.B. Fess Parker 2011 Viognier (Santa Barba­ abv: 13.7% Price: $20 88 ra County). This wine demonstrates Viognier’s Navarro 2011 Dry Estate Bottled Gewürz­ exotic side, with flavors of tropical fruit, tangerine, white 90 traminer (Anderson Valley). This is an aro- Benessere 2011 Pinot Grigio (Carne­ flower, vanilla, honey and spice. Despite the richness, matic, honeysuckle-tinged cool-climate white, with lay- 87 ros). While the orange, pear and green apple it’s dry and the acidity is mouthwatering. Don’t serve ers of honey and spice. Light in body and texture, this flavors of this Pinot Grigio seem sweetened by the va- this too cold, and pair it with Asian fare that’s slightly complex, Alsace-style effort is the perfect accompani- nilla and honey notes, the wine’s brisk acidity balances sweet. —S.H. ment to Thai, Indian, Korean barbecue or spicy Chi- it and makes finish dry and clean. This will make for a abv: 14.5% Price: $25 nese food. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. fine apéritif, and it will also pair well with slightly sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Chinese, Vietnamese and Cambodian fare. Editors’ Jorian Hill 2010 Viognier (Santa Ynez Val­ Choice. —S.H. 88 ley). Aged in stainless steel, this Viognier bears Joseph Swan Vineyards 2011 Saralee’s abv: 13.8% Price: $22 pure, rich flavors of orange, lemon, peach and honey- 87 Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Russian River suckle that are brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H. Valley). Tasting somewhere between dry and off dry Philo Ridge 2010 Klindt Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.8% Price: $24 on the sweetness spectrum, this has tropical fruit, white 87 Gris (Anderson Valley). A darker expression flower and spice flavors that make it a perfect accompa- of Pinot Gris than the winery’s new Marguerite Vine- Nottingham Cellars 2011 Viognier (Ar­ niment to modern Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Burmese yard bottling, this wine, which is made from fruit grown 88 royo Seco). A new wine for Nottingham, this and even Indian fare. —S.H. at lower elevation, sees no oak, and it’s crafted without is a crisp, textured Viognier. Apricot and orange notes abv: 14.1% Price: $20 malolactic fermentation. Pronounced notes of almond meld with a whiff of jasmine on the nose. —V.B. and vanilla are layered over touches of peach and mel- abv: 13.9% Price: $28 on. —V.B. riesling abv: 14.1% Price: $19 pinot blanc Smith-Madrone 2011 Riesling (Spring Philo Ridge 2010 Marguerite Vineyard Pi­ 91 Mountain). Classic Smith-Madrone Riesling, 87 not Gris (Anderson Valley). A cool-­climate Nagy 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot this is dryish and clean, with mouthwatering acidity Pinot Gris, this is a finely tuned citrusy white, with crisp 91 Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). This is high in and hints of citrus, Asian pear, green apple and honey. notes of peach and apricot. This is the winery’s first alcohol, but the result is a rich Pinot Blanc, with citrus, It shows balance and elegance that is rare in California release that’s made from Marguerite Vineyard fruit. tropical fruit, mineral, white flower and honey flavors. Riesling. Enjoyable now, and it should slowly develop It spent no time in oak and malolactic fermentation The bright, citrusy acidity keeps the mouthfeel keen nuances over the next eight years. —S.H. was blocked, which helped to preserve an impressive and zingy. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $27 amount of acidity. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $24 abv: 13.1% Price: $21 Navarro 2011 Riesling (Anderson Valley). Sierra Madre 2010 Sierra Madre Vineyard 89 A dry, light-bodied, easy-drinking Riesling, this Ramspeck 2011 Sassolini Pinot Grigio 90 Estate Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). has zesty lemon and grapefruit flavors, plus undertones 86 (Lake County). The fruit that was used to Rich and full-bodied, this has the weight of a barrel- of flower and spiced tangerine. The palate shows depth, make this Pinot Grigio was sourced from a High Valley fermented, lees-aged wine. This 100% Pinot Blanc has and the finish is intense. —V.B. vineyard situated at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The re- plenty of orange, cream, brown sugar and brown butter abv: 12.7% Price: $19 sulting wine is full of citrus and green apple aromas and flavors. Try it as an interesting alternative to Chardon- flavors. The finish shows a touch of sweetness. —V.B. nay. —S.H. Fess Parker 2011 Riesling (Santa Barba­ abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.7% Price: $21 88 ra County). For full review see page 9. Edi- tors’ Choice. Swanson 2011 Pinot Grigio (Napa Val­ Saint Gregory 2011 Pinot Blanc (Men­ abv: 12% Price: $14 86 ley). Marked by brisk, citrusy acidity, this Pinot 88 docino County). Light and clean, this Pinot Grigio has orange, Meyer lemon and sweet green-grass Blanc has layered flavors of flower, pear and mineral.

48 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 flavors. It would pair well with Chinese and Vietnamese barrel, there is a vanilla-cream-like sweetness. This will food. —S.H. pair well with Asian fare, ham or sausage. —S.H. other white wines abv: 13.3% Price: $21 abv: 13.7% Price: $18 PasoPort 2011 Vinho Blanco (Edna Val­ 91 ley). Made from fruit sourced from the well- Wellington 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (So­ known Paragon Vineyard, this 100% Albariño is smooth sauvignon blanc 86 noma Valley). Brisk, dry and clean, this Sau- and spicy, and its brilliant acidity highlights the green Navarro 2011 Cuvee 128 Sauvignon vignon Blanc shows New Zealand-like qualities. It has apple, citrus and vanilla flavors. Try this as an alternative gooseberry, lemon, lime, white pepper and vanilla fla- Blanc (Mendocino). Full of vitality from start to Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. —S.H. 93 vors, and brisk acidity gives it a mouthwatering tartness. to finish, this wine has bright flavors of pear and melon. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 —S.H. Pair it with Asian fare and spicy seafood, or enjoy it on abv: 13.5% Price: $15 its own. —V.B. Stolpman 2010 L’Avion (San­ abv: 12.4% Price: $18 90 ta Ynez Valley). New French oak and lees ag- Edna Valley Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon ing give this wine richness in the form of creamy, yeasty, Blanc (Central Coast). Flocchini 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (So­ 85 A touch of oak in- toast and vanilla flavors. It offers ripe, forward flavors of fluence lends smokiness to the lime, Meyer lemon and noma Coast). Clean, tart and expressive, this oranges and tropical fruits, and the acidity plays a vital 90 tropical fruit flavors. With its crisp acidity that creates has flavors of Asian pear, orange, lime, vanilla and goose- role in creating balance and a clean finish. Try this as a sweet-and-sour taste, this wine is for drinking now as berry. Bright and zesty, this would make for a fine apéri- an alternative to Chardonnay, and enjoy it with fish or a cocktail sipper or with ham or Chinese food. —S.H. tif, and it would also pair well with Asian fare. —S.H. poultry in cream sauce. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 12.4% Price: $16 abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Mercy 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo Geyser Peak 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cal­ Epiphany 2011 Camp Four Vineyard Gr­ Seco). Flavors of candied lemon, lime and 90 ifornia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. 85 87 enache Blanc (Santa Barbara County). abv: 13% Price: $10 pineapple are brightened by crisp acidity in this unoaked Ripe tangerine, peach, green apple and vanilla flavors Sauvignon Blanc. The wine reflects this cool-climate combine with brisk, citrusy acidity in this wine. This Ballard Lane 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Monterey appellation with its clean, brisk character. wine saw a touch of neutral oak, which seems to have 88 (Central Coast). Raised in stainless steel, —S.H. contributed a smoky toast character. It picks up com- without oak infuence, this wine is rich, savory and dry. A abv: 14% Price: $16 plexities as it warms and airs, so don’t drink this too cold. small percentage of Pinot Grigio brings a note of green —S.H. Leese-Fitch 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali­ apple to the flavors of citrus, white flower and honey. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 fornia). This tastes a bit on the sweet side, with Best Buy. —S.H. 84 abv: 12.2% Price: $10 flavors of white sugar, orange, lemon, lime and vanilla. Graziano 2011 (Mendoci­ Fortunately, there’s a cut of crisp acidity that lends bal- 87 no County). The abundant minerality of this Courtney Benham 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ance. The grapes come mainly from Lake County and Mendocino Chenin Blanc hits first, followed by clean 87 (Lake County). This Sauvignon Blanc tastes Paso Robles. —S.H. flavors and a subtle layer of honey on the finish. —V.B. lightly grassy, with a creamy texture and plenty of bite. abv: 13.6% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 The flavors that pop include grapefruit, kiwi, cantaloupe and wet stone. —V.B. Enotria 2011 (Mendocino Coun­ abv: 14.2% Price: $16 white blends 86 ty). Inviting and floral, this Mendocino County Orfila 2011 Estate Lotus (San Pasqual). Cortese, the grape used to produce Gavi in Italy, is aus- Kenefick Ranch 2011 Estate Grown Sau­ 86 A South Coast blend of 68% Viognier with 16% tere and almost salty, with a lime flavor and a smidgen 87 vignon Blanc (Calistoga). This tastes a lit- each of and Roussanne, this is lemony, crisp, of Asian pear. This would pair well with briny seafood— tle on the candied side, with flavors of pineapple and and medium bodied, layered with notes of honey and think something with bite to offset the bitterness on the lemon tart, plus a note of sweet buttered toast from the honeysuckle. Pair this with seafood. —V.B. finish. —V.B. oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.2% Price: $24 Insomnia 2011 White (California). This has Monte Volpe 2010 Tocai Friulano (Men­ White Oak 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus­ 84 flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons and tropical 85 docino). This wine is alive with flavors of cit- 87 sian River Valley). Crisp acidity brightens fruits, and there’s a good burst of acidity that lends bal- rus, honey and orange blossom. With its sour twist on this wine’s seemingly sweet lemongrass, tropical fruit ance. The finish tastes a bit sweet. Pair this selection the finish, it calls to be paired with seafood slathered in and vanilla flavors. Try pairing this with Chinese food with Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, Indian or Ethiopian garlic and cream. —V.B. or ham. —S.H. dishes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Peloton 2011 Jesperson Ranch Albariño Chateau St. Jean 2010 La Petite Etoile Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Saralee’s 84 (Edna Valley). Albariño is very sensitive to 86 Vineyard Fumé Blanc (Russian River Val­ 82 Vineyard Roussanne-Marsanne (Russian the slightest usage of oak. Although this wine has only a ley). The oak influence in this 100% Sauvignon Blanc River Valley). With its flavors of baked fruit and mush- touch of neutral oak, the wood still sticks out. The bar- is strong, which gives it buttered toast and butterscotch room, this wine already tastes old and tired. —S.H. rel influence gives it a buttered toast and caramel heavi- flavors. Underneath the oaky veneer is a crisp, clean abv: 14.1% Price: $22 ness. Try this as an alternative to Chardonnay. —S.H. wine, with notes of lemon, lime, green melon and man- abv: 14% Price: $27 go fruit. —S.H. Highland Hills Winery 2011 White Rhone abv: 14.6% Price: $22 81 Blend (Ramona Valley). This blend of 64% Tower 15 2011 (Paso Marsanne and 36% Roussanne is one-dimensional, and 82 Robles). This is dry and crisp in acidity, but Tin Barn 2011 Hi Vista Vineyard Sauvi­ it tastes a bit sour. —V.B. the vegetable and citrus flavors are clumsy. —S.H. 86 gnon Blanc (Carneros). Off-dry in taste, abv: 13.2% Price: $25 abv: 13.1% Price: $18 this wine has an intense sweet-and-sour flavor. It didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation, so there’s plenty of green-apple-like acidity, and as it partially fermented in

WineMag.com | 49 is pleasingly tart. Production was only 55 cases, but it’s Noir, and it tastes bone dry and tart in acidity. The wild sparkling wines worth a special search. —S.H. cherry flavor comes with hints of balsam, dusty brown Halyard NV Brut (Napa-Mendocino-So­ abv: 14.6% Price: $75 spice, mineral and sandalwood. It shows all of the hall- 88 noma). A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and marks of ageability, so cellar it until 2016, at the very , this has citrus, raspberry, toast, vanilla Chanin 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. and yeast flavors. The texture scours, with big, edgy 94 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This Pinot Noir’s abv: 13.1% Price: $32 bubbles and lots of acidity. Drink now. —S.H. raspberry and cherry fruit is joined by earthier notes abv: 13% Price: $25 of mushroom and mulch, plus a touch of spicy bacon. Joseph Swan Vineyards 2009 Great Oak It’s dry and full bodied, with a rich vein of acidity and a 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val­ Sinnet 2007 Rosé (Napa-Sonoma-Mon­ coating of furry tannins. Clearly a cellar candidate, this ley). You can smell and taste the damp, cool, forest 87 terey). This blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir will benefit from 6–8 years of aging. Cellar Selection. countryside of the Russian River Valley in this wine. and Pinot Meunier feels a little scouring. It has sweet- —S.H. Flavors of earth, mushroom, decaying tree bark and tasting flavors of raspberry jam, toast, vanilla and yeast. abv: 13.8% Price: $50 pine needle are all present, and the notes of cherry, Drink this bubbly now. —S.H. cola and are intense. It’s fairly tannic, abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Hirsch 2010 East Ridge Estate Vineyard with a crisp edge of acidity. Drink now–2015. Editors’ 94 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A delicate, Choice. —S.H. silky mouthfeel makes this wine feel light and vibrant, abv: 14.1% Price: $35 dessert wines yet there’s nothing light about the flavors. Notes of wild cherries, cranberries, Dr. Pepper, anise, pine and savory La Fenêtre 2010 Presqu’ile Vineyard Pi­ Navarro 2011 Cluster Select Late Harvest spices explode on the palate, and they lead to a long, not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made from Blanc (Anderson Valley). Smooth, 93 94 dry finish. Give it 5–6 years in the cellar. Cellar Selec- grapes sourced from the old Addamo property in the balanced and lingering, this is sippable by itself after a tion. —S.H. cool Solomon Hills region, this wine shows an impres- big meal, and it can also pair well with strong cheeses, abv: 13% Price: $85 sive core of cherry, cranberry and currant flavors. It’s dark chocolates or stone-fruit-based desserts that are racy and complex, and the mouth-watering acidity layered with crème Anglaise. This selection also comes Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Trenton makes you crave lamb, tuna, steak and soft cheeses. It in 375-ml bottles. —V.B. Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian Riv­ can be enjoyed now, and it should age for up to 10 years. abv: 9.9% Price: $59 94 er Valley). Tannic and tightly wound, this has an as- —S.H. tringent resistance, but because the flavors are so pow- abv: 13.7% Price: $49 Navarro 2011 Cluster Select Late Harvest erful, it’s already delicious. Intense notes of raspberry Riesling (Anderson Valley). Dark golden in 91 jam, cherry pie, anisette, Dr. Pepper are all present, and MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vine­ color, this late-harvest Riesling, which was allowed to a rich, sweet jacket of smoky sandalwood adds further yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full develop botrytis after two October 2011 storms, has 93 complexity. Give it 5–6 years in the cellar, but it could review see page 5. knockout, sweet honey and apricot goodness from start last for 15 years if you enjoy mature wines. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 to finish. It’s round and concentrated, and it has 12.9% abv: 14.2% Price: $58 residual sugar. Incredible on its own, this will also pair Solomon Hills 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa well with peach- and pineapple-based desserts, foie gras Martinelli 2010 Three Sisters Vineyard 93 Maria Valley). For full review see page 6. and blue cheeses. —V.B. 94 Sea Ridge Meadow Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 14.5% Price: $57 abv: 10.1% Price: $59 Coast). This shows a dryness and an elegant silkiness that make it lovely to drink now. It’s deep and long on Toretti’s 2009 Inocencio Pinot Noir (San­ rosés the palate, with flavors of raspberry-cherry tart, date, 93 ta Barbara County). This wine offers com- cola and spicy sandalwood. Brisk acidity adds a tart bite plex flavors of sour cherry candy, persimmon, mush- Morovino 2011 Avila Beach Dry that would pair well with steak, lamb, salmon and tuna. room, spice and dried herb, brightened by crisp acidity. 87 Rosé of Pinot Grigio (Santa Barbara It will pick up bottle complexity over the next 10 years. The oak influence provides smoky sweetness and wood County). This rosé gets its pretty eye-of-the-partridge —S.H. tannins. This should continue to develop for six years color from having undergone cold soaking. Dry, soft and abv: 14.5% Price: $60 or so. —S.H. subtle, it shows peach, vanilla and spice flavors. Great abv: 14.5% Price: $44 with cioppino or grilled salmon. —S.H. Arista 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $18 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see Bien Nacido 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma­ page 5. 92 ria Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar Flocchini 2010 Rosé (Sonoma Coast). abv: 14.4% Price: $58 Selection. 82 Made from Syrah, this is a heavy, fruity wine abv: 14.1% Price: $57 that offers cherry, orange and mushroom flavors. It’s Fort Ross 2009 Fort Ross Vineyard Re­ very dry, with pleasant acidity. —S.H. 93 serve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full Fess Parker 2010 Clone 115 Pinot Noir abv: 12.4% Price: $18 review see page 5. 92 (Sta. Rita Hills). Let this Pinot Noir age for at abv: 14.3% Price: $65 least 5–6 more years, because right now it’s tannic and closed. The acidity gives the palate a citrus-like qual- pinot noir Hirsch 2010 San Andreas Estate Vine­ ity, and the concentrated core of cherries and currants yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Dry and is sweet, spicy, succulent and balanced. Cellar Selec- Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea 93 tart in acidity, this Pinot Noir offers cherry-skin-like tan- tion. —S.H. Slopes Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For 95 nins that give the palate a brittle sensation. Give it 5–6 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. years to let the raspberry and cherry flavors meld with abv: 14.5% Price: $32 the notes of oak and mineral. It should last the next 15 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val­ La Rochelle 2009 Donum Estate Vine­ years, gradually losing its fruit and gaining earthy, mush- 92 roomy complexities. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ley). This Pinot Noir is softer and more approachable yard Pinot Noir (Carneros). The Donum 95 abv: 13% Price: $60 than many of Swan’s other new releases, so it’s probably Estate Vineyard has been producing some of Carneros’s not as age worthy. But it feels smooth on the palate, and best Pinot Noirs of late. This is a complex bottling, with Hirsch 2010 The Bohan-Dillon Pinot Noir notes of raspberry jam and vanilla, and the mouthfeel 93 (Sonoma Coast). This is fairly tannic for Pinot

50 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 the flavors of raspberry cream, cherry pie and buttered La Follette 2010 Manchester Ridge Vine­ well with steaks, lamb chops and mushroom risottos. toast are luscious. —S.H. 91 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Bright and high in acidity, this has a lively cherry flavor, abv: 14.7% Price: $58 plus a layering of earthy mushroom. It’s silky from start Kenneth Volk 2009 Bien Nacido Vine­ to finish. —V.B. Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High­ 92 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). The abv: 13.4% Price: $50 90 lands). This wine’s acid-tannin balance is beau- ripe, dramatic flavors of blackberry and cherry seem tiful, which lends structure to the raspberry, cherry, red like they’re right out of the jam jar, and they meld with Navarro 2010 Méthode à l’Ancienne Pi­ currant and vanilla flavors. It shows the elegance associ- toasty oak and crisp, coastal-inspired acidity. This needs 91 not Noir (Anderson Valley). Polished and ated with the vintage. Drink now. —S.H. some time in the bottle to knit together, so give it 5–6 balanced, this masterpiece shows restraint and it’s al- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ready drinkable. With its great acidity and its fine inter- abv: 14.8% Price: $48 mingling of spice and red fruit flavors, this wine will ap- Wild Hog 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma peal to lovers of Gamay and Pinot Noir. —V.B. 90 Coast). Big, robust and fleshy on the palate, La Rochelle 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian abv: 14.1% Price: $29 this Pinot Noir is packed with cherry, cranberry and Dr. 92 River Valley). This is a dry wine, yet the fla- Pepper flavors. It should mellow in 6–7 years. Cellar vors of raspberries and cherries are sweet tasting. It has Siduri 2011 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir Selection. —S.H. a delicate, silky mouthfeel, and the tart acids add plenty 91 (Santa Lucia Highlands). The raspberry abv: NA Price: $30 of cut. Pair this with grilled, broiled or pan-fried steak, and cherry flavors are a bit obvious at first, but then the served with mushrooms. —S.H. balanced tannins and acids become apparent, and the Flocchini 2006 Andrea La Rue Pinot Noir abv: 14.9% Price: $42 tasteful application of sweet, smoky oak surfaces. This 89 (Sonoma Coast). Clean, mellow and invit- wine grows more interesting as it sits in the glass. Drink ing, this bears rich flavors of raspberries and cherries, Nagy 2010 Garey Ranch Vineyard Pinot it now and over the next 3–4 years for maximum fresh- brightened by crisp acidity. Drink now. —S.H. 92 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). On the palate, ness. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $27 this wine is rich and complex, with flavors of dried cher- abv: 14.9% Price: $55 ry, cola, licorice, red currant and sandalwood that finish Flying Goat Cellars 2010 Solomon Hills bone dry. It has lots of acidity and some sandpaper-like Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Cuvée de 89 VIneyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). tannins. This should begin to develop bottle-age notes 90 Trois Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A rich Pinot that offers power and density, this is stuffed after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. This wine captures the essence of Swan’s 2010 Pinot with cherry, cola and pomegranate notes. It has sizable abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Noirs. It shows the effects of the cool vintage, and it tannins, so give it 5–6 years to let them mellow. Cellar bears an earthy, mushroomy inflection to the plummy Selection. —S.H. Phantom Rivers 2008 Wolff Vineyard Pi­ and cherry-like flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $42 92 not Noir (Edna Valley). A real flatterer, this abv: 14.2% Price: $29 is instantly appealing for its upfront raspberry, cherry Mahoney 2010 Mahoney Ranch Pinot and currant flavors. There’s subtlety to the acid-tannin Kazmer & Blaise 2010 Primo’s Hill Pinot 89 Noir (Carneros). Tightly wound, dry and structure, and it finishes with notes of dried herbs and 90 Noir (Carneros). As this is tight and currently acidic, this Pinot Noir offers direct and jammy flavors tobacco. This needs a few years to come together. Cel- aloof, it lacks the generosity of the 2009 vintage, but it of cherry and persimmon. The structure is fine, with lar Selection. —S.H. may prove to be more ageable. It has deep, earthy fla- firm tannins and stony minerality. Once decanted, it can abv: 13.8% Price: $28 vors of red currant, cola and balsam, and it could blos- be consumed now, or it can be cellared for 3–5 years. som into something even more complex after 2016. —S.H. Siduri 2011 Parsons’ Vineyard Pinot Noir Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $38 92 (Russian River Valley). Although this is silky abv: 14.2% Price: $50 and elegant, it is one of Siduri’s higher alcohol Pinot Siduri 2011 Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir Noirs. Ripe and impressive, the raspberry and cherry La Fenêtre 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard 89 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Give this Pinot pie flavors are accented by sweet, smoky oak notes. 90 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This is rich Noir a couple of years to knit together. Right now it’s Drink it over the next 2–3 years for sheer pleasure. and appealing now for its ripe flavors of raspberry and a little acidic, and it offers flavors of Life Savers candy, —S.H. cherry that taste as if they were baked in a sweet, smoky raspberry and cherry. The mouthfeel is velvety smooth. abv: 14.9% Price: $49 pie crust. The acidity provides a pleasant tartness. It —S.H. should age well over the next 3–5 years. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $52 Arista 2010 Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.9% Price: $49 91 (Mendocino Ridge). For full review see page Cru 2010 Appellation Series 6. Lost Canyon 2010 Morelli Lane Vineyard 88 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This abv: 14.5% Price: $52 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Cellar is the best of Cru’s 2010 Pinot Noirs, and it shows real this young wine for 5–6 years to let it mellow. Right Santa Lucia complexity. It’s a dry wine, with brisk acids Dierberg 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir now, it’s aggressive in tannins and acids. The core of and supple tannins. It has a flashy core of cherry, red 91 (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 6. cherry, black raspberry, rhubarb and plum flavors is currant, licorice and smoky, sweet sandalwood flavors. abv: 14.5% Price: $44 strong, which suggests that the wine will age. Cellar Drink this over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Huge Bear 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv­ abv: 14.1% Price: $45 91 er Valley). Made in a dry, light style, this Pinot Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch Noir has a silky mouthfeel and citrusy acidity that gets Relic 2010 Kashaya Pinot Noir (Sonoma 88 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This the tastebuds whistling. It has intense flavors of sour 90 Coast). Give this Pinot Noir some time to Pinot Noir has deep flavors of cherry and persimmon, cherry candy and Dr. Pepper, and the oak influence breathe and mellow in a decanter. Right out of the bot- plus a lush application of sweet oak. It has a sandpaper- lends an edge of sweet toast. Seems at its best now and tle, it’s tough, tannic and jammy in raspberry and cherry like mouthfeel, and it might benefit from a few years in over the next few years. It will pair well with tuna tar- flavors. But it doesn’t take long for it to pick up some a cellar. Otherwise, decant it for a couple hours before tare. —S.H. complexities. This wine’s rich, sweet oakiness will pair serving. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 51 John Tyler 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyard cherry flavors with sweet, smoky oak tones. A wine to MacMurray Ranch 2010 Winemaker’s 88 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This drink now, it shows classic Russian River acidity, and it 87 Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). bottling from John Tyler has been variable over the bears a minerally, salty profile that lends structural ele­ Pleasant acidity and a tannic edge supports the oak- years. The 2009 offering is dry, silky and crisp, and it gance. —S.H. accented­ cherry, rhubarb, pomegranate and plum fla- bears pleasant red currant, sour cherry candy and per- abv: 14.3% Price: $32 vors. Rich and ripe, this Pinot Noir is for drinking now. simmon flavors. Drink now–2015. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 Summerland 2009 Solomon Hills VIne­ abv: 13.8% Price: $60 88 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This Kenneth Volk 2008 Solomon Hills VIne­ Pinot is rich and dense in rustic cherry and red currant Mahoney 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 88 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Ripe flavors. It also feels quite warm in alcohol, which makes 87 Give this fresh Pinot Noir some time to breathe, and extracted, this wine has cherry tart and Dr. Pep- it almost taste like Grenache. Drink it over the next six and then enjoy it for its brisk acidity and friendly rasp- per flavors. The mouthfeel is light-bodied and silky, with years. —S.H. berry, cherry and persimmon flavors. It has an earthi- bright acidity. It finishes a bit sweet in caramelized oak, abv: 14.1% Price: $45 ness that would pair well with mushroom risotto. —S.H. and it seems ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24 abv: 14.4% Price: $48 Ballard Lane 2010 Pinot Noir (Central 87 Coast). A full-bodied Pinot Noir, this bears Philo Ridge 2009 Unfiltered Pinot Noir Lost Canyon 2010 Saralee’s Vineyard Pi­ ripe cherry, red plum and tart cranberry flavors. The 87 (Anderson Valley). A light yet concentrated 88 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich and considerable acidity gives it a mouth-watering bite. Pinot Noir, this has a cherry flavor and a spicy texture. forward in fruit, in the way of Saralee’s Pinot Noirs, with Drink soon, and decant it. Best Buy. —S.H. Give it some air to allow the better side of its earthy aro- savory raspberry and cherry jam, rhubarb pie and spice abv: 13% Price: $12 mas time to unravel. —V.B. flavors. It’s brisk in acidity and fairly tannic, but light and abv: 14.1% Price: $34 delicate enough to drink now. —S.H. Cru 2010 Appellation Series Pinot Noir abv: 14.4% Price: $45 87 (Santa Maria Valley). Ripe, flashy raspberry, Rock Wall 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River cherry and red currant flavors abound in this silky Pinot 87 Valley). A soft, elegant Pinot Noir, this bears Lost Canyon 2010 Whitton Vineyard Pi­ Noir. It has oak-driven notes of buttered toast and wood flavors of cherry cola and persimmon, with accents of 88 not Noir (Russian River Valley). This is spice, and while it’s not especially complex, and it’s not sweet, buttery, toasted oak and cinnamon. Drink now. tart—like a squeeze of lime was added to the wine. The likely to age, it does offer immediate pleasure. —S.H. —S.H. acids brighten the raspberry and persimmon flavors to abv: 14.3% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 give this Pinot Noir a mouth-watering quality. The acid- ity is characteristic of the cool vintage and the vineyard’s Flocchini 2009 Andrea La Rue Pinot Noir Alderbrook 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv­ location, which is in the cool southwestern part of the 87 (Sonoma Coast). Citrusy acidity gives this 86 er Valley). A simple and candied Pinot Noir, valley. Drink now–2015. —S.H. dry, silky Pinot Noir a cranberry tartness, which gets the this has tasty raspberry and cherry jam flavors, plus rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 tastebuds whistling. Pair this with lamb, salmon or tuna oak-derived notes of buttered toast. —S.H. to help tame the acids. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Mahoney 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Carner­ abv: 13.9% Price: $25 88 os). This shows a dry, leathery flavor, plus notes Artesa 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Cheer- of sour cherry candy, mineral and cola. There are also Flocchini 2005 Andrea La Rue Pinot Noir 86 ful, easy-to-like and silky, this Pinot Noir has oak-derived tones of caramel and vanilla. The mouth- 87 (Sonoma Coast). This Pinot is starting to clean raspberry and cherry tart flavors. It has good acid- feel is tart and tannic, but it’s also elegant. Let this Pinot lose its primary fruit, and it’s gradually becoming mush- ity, and a long, spicy finish. —S.H. Noir decant, which will help it mellow. —S.H. roomy and earthy. But the raspberry and cherry flavors abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $28 are still plentiful, and the finish is dry and clean. It’s an interesting, complex wine to drink now. —S.H. Mercy 2009 Cedar Lane Pinot Noir (Ar­ Mahoney 2010 Las Brisas Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.1% Price: $53 86 royo Seco). Made in a light style, this has a 88 Noir (Carneros). Tough and tightly wound, silky texture that’s marked by high acidity. It’s dry, with this wine is currently marked by acids and tannins. It Flying Goat Cellars 2009 Bien Nacido sour cherry and raspberry candy flavors. Ready to drink may lack immediate generosity, but it does offer under- 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). now. —S.H. lying elegance. Decanting helps mellow the cherry and Big, rich and dense, this Pinot Noir shows massive, abv: 14.5% Price: $38 cola flavors. This will pair well with steak. —S.H. in-your-face flavors of oak, raspberry-cherry jam and abv: 13.8% Price: $38 chocolate. You can give this a few years of aging or try Nice Pairing 2011 Pinot Noir (California). decanting, but it seems best enjoyed soon for its sheer 86 This Pinot Noir offers plenty of varietal plea- Melville 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita youthful power. —S.H. sure. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, with cherry skin, red 88 Hills). This shows the elegance of Santa Rita abv: 13.7% Price: $50 currant and cola flavors. —S.H. Hills Pinot Noir. Dry and crisp in acidity, it has complex abv: 13.8% Price: $12 layers of sour cherry candy, white pepper and sandal- Jeriko 2011 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir (Men­ wood, plus a touch of green herb. It evolves as it airs in 87 docino). Assertive in its earthy, barnyard-like Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). the glass. —S.H. aromas, this biodynamic, Dijon-clone-based wine is 86 With moderate alcohol and brisk acidity, this abv: 14.2% Price: $34 light on its feet. It’s ripe flavors are still developing, and shows the elegance of the 2011 vintage, and it offers it has a finish that one wishes would linger longer. —V.B. ripe flavors of cherries, cranberries and . Migration 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pi­ abv: 13.8% Price: $48 Drink now. —S.H. 88 not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Big, rich and abv: 13.1% Price: $22 flashy, this is a wine of fruit-driven power. The notes of La Rochelle 2009 Sleepy Hollow Vine­ cherries, blackberries and currants are strong and jam- 87 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Three Saints 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma­ my, and it’s oaky, too. The finish is tannic and dry, so you The oak sticks out on this Pinot Noir, with a dominating 86 ria Valley). This tastes a little too high in acid- may want to cellar it for a couple of years. —S.H. toast aroma and flavor. The underlying wine, however, ity, but it does show the spiciness of Santa Maria Valley abv: 14.5% Price: $65 bears strong notes of red fruit and currant. Give it 2–3 Pinot Noir. Flavors of ripe black cherry, peppercorn and years to see if the balance shifts. —S.H. licorice are all found, and it shows a nice silkiness. Drink Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 14.7% Price: $48 now. —S.H. 88 Valley). This wine combines ripe raspberry and abv: 14.1% Price: $24

52 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Transcendence 2009 Babcock Vineyard Mercy 2009 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). 85 (Carneros). Under all of the oak-derived but- 85 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This tastes a lit- 82 Simple, dry and acidic, this has raspberry and tered toast and caramel aromas and flavors exists a crisp, tle underripe, with a green note that joins the cherry red currant flavors as well as an underripe note. —S.H. clean Pinot Noir that bears notes of raspberry and cherry. and cranberry flavors. Dry and tart, this wine should be abv: 14.4% Price: $22 —S.H. decanted and consumed now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.4% Price: $45 syrah Cru 2010 Vineyard Montage Pinot Noir Peacock Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Donelan 2010 Cuvee Keltie Syrah (So­ (Central Coast). This tastes like a raspberry Coast). This light-bodied Pinot has some good 85 84 noma County). Rich, dry and complex, this and red cherry tart that has a smoky, sweet crust. The raspberry and cherry pie flavors, as well as bright acidity. 94 Syrah has flavors of blackberry, currant, licorice, grilled alcohol gives the palate a pleasant warmth. It’s a simple Decant to let it breathe, and drink now. —S.H. , black pepper and sandalwood that are Pinot Noir to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 wrapped in fine tannins. The wine is a barrel selection abv: 14.3% Price: $23 of the various vineyards from which Donelan sources its Peacock Cellars 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir fruit. Production was exceedingly small, but it’s worth a Fess Parker 2010 Ashley’s Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Strong flavors of raspberry, 84 special search. —S.H. (Sta. Rita Hills). This is too oaky, with dom- cherry and oak dominate, with a hint of mushroom in 85 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 inating aromas and flavors of butterscotch, buttered the background. It will appeal to those who like a light, toast and vanilla. The oak-derived tannins are discern- lean style of Pinot Noir. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. Jonata 2007 La Sangre de Jonata (Santa able, but the underlying wine is dry and crisp, with fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Ynez Valley). So rich and concentrated, this vors of raspberries and cherries. Drink now. —S.H. 94 blend of 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier is mind-blowing. abv: 14.6% Price: $50 Toretti’s 2010 Inocencio Pinot Noir (San­ It has massive flavors of blackberries, cherries, dark ta Barbara County). Sharp and minty, this 84 chocolate and spices. But it’s not just the delicious fac- Flocchini 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma wine has some underripe notes, yet the flavor of pep- tor that grabs you, it’s how pure and balanced the tan- Coast). There’s a mushroomy earthiness that pery black cherry tastes jammy. The alcohol is high and 85 nins and acids are. —S.H. dominates this wine’s cherry and raspberry flavors. It’s somewhat unbalanced, which gives the wine a heavy abv: 14.9% Price: $125 dry, with a silky mouthfeel and brisk, cool-climate-de- mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $44 rived acidity. Drink now. —S.H. Prospect 772 2010 The Instigator Syrah abv: 14.1% Price: $28 (Sonoma County). Powerful and decadent, Weibel Family 2010 Pinot Noir (Potter 94 this 100% Syrah has a lush palate that comes with im- Fort Ross 2009 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Valley). Full and fleshy, this Pinot Noir has 84 pressive streaks of gamy meat and earth, plus a note of Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is tastes a little strong black-licorice and herb components. It has a big 85 bright blackberry jam. The long, concentrated finish soft and sweet, with raspberry jam, toast and white sug- personality, and the alcohol seems higher than it actu- bears a touch of tar. Let this relax a few years, and it will ar flavors. Drink now. —S.H. ally is. —V.B. get even better. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 15% Price: $36 Irony 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). Barra of Mendocino 2010 Pinot Noir Venge 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Block This Pinot Noir shows tart, Monterey-derived (Mendocino). A wispy Mendocino Pinot Noir, 85 83 I-4 Syrah (Napa Valley). For full review see acidity, but it has enough raspberry and cherry flavors to this lacks depth and finesse. It has undertones of cur- 94 page 5. make it enjoyable. It feels light and silky. —S.H. rant and cherry, and a wham-bam finish. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $54 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $20 Patland 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Syr­ Mercy 2010 Griva Vineyard Pinot Noir Fess Parker 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita ah (Napa Valley). The fruit is sourced from a (Arroyo Seco). Full bodied, dry and tannic, Hills). This tastes somewhat vegetal, with 93 85 83 site that straddles Atlas Peak, but the vineyard is not ex- this Pinot Noir has cherry, berry and currant flavors. It and asparagus hints that are set against the cherry pie clusively located there, which is why this wine is labeled has bright acids, but it lacks some concentration. Drink flavor. —S.H. with the broad Napa Valley appellation. This 100% Syr- now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 ah is extraordinarily rich, and it floods the mouth with abv: 14.4% Price: $38 Tin Barn 2010 Ricci Vineyard Pinot Noir flavors of blackberries and black currants, plus hints of Parducci 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (An­ 83 (Carneros). This is a simple Pinot Noir that crisp bacon and black pepper. Dry and tannic, it shows 85 derson Valley). The first Reserve released by has raspberry and cherry jam flavors. While it has a deli- elegance and balance, and it will develop over the next Parducci, this is dripping with bright cherry and straw- cate mouthfeel, it tastes candied and sweet. —S.H. six years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 berry flavors, and it has an earthy undertone. A trace of abv: 13.9% Price: $34 spice lingers on the palate. —V.B. Donelan 2010 Obsidian Vineyard Syrah abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Fess Parker 2010 Pommard Clone Pinot (Knights Valley). 82 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Green and mint-like in 92 This Syrah feels jammy and River Road Vineyards 2011 Reserve Pi­ scent, with a note that’s reminiscent of grape stem, this tannic, but beyond the toughness exist intense flavors of 85 not Noir (Russian River Valley). This tastes Pinot Noir tastes hot from the high alcohol. —S.H. blackberries and cherries that taste like they were baked bone dry and silky, and it comes with Russian River’s abv: 15.2% Price: $55 in pie crust, with additional notes of dried currant, an- tart acidity. The cherry and cola flavors could be more ise, grilled meat and cedar. It’s dry and astringent, and

concentrated, but it does have some elegance. —S.H. Fire and Oak 2010 Pinot Noir (Central all indications point to its ageability. Give this 6–7 years. abv: 13.2% Price: $19 82 Coast). Dry and acidic, yet silky, this wine has Cellar Selection. —S.H. thin flavors of mint and raspberry sour candy. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $90 Shadowbox 2009 Anne Katherina Vine­ abv: 14.4% Price: $16 Prospect 772 2010 The Brawler Syrah- yard Pinot Noir (Carneros). With its zingy 85 Viognier (Calaveras County). acidity and ripe raspberry and cherry flavors, this Pinot Grayson 2011 Lot 5 Pinot Noir (Califor­ 92 A blend of Noir has a sweet-and-sour quality that’s reminiscent of 82 nia). Dry, clean and tart, this has cherry, Dr. Syrah and 7% Viognier, this has a tremendous perfume Chinese sauce for pork or chicken. Drink now. —S.H. Pepper and vanilla flavors. —S.H. on the nose. Mouth-filling and savory, it is adorned with abv: 14.2% Price: $50 abv: 13.9% Price: $14 flavors of mushroom, earth and black raspberry. Cel-

WineMag.com | 53 lar this for a while, or enjoy it now with roasted game Peloton 2009 Laetitia Vineyard Syrah (Ar­ the blackberry, black currant and dark chocolate flavors served in a mushroom ragout. —V.B. 90 royo Grande Valley). This exceedingly rich are plentiful. Cellar this for one or two years. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $36 wine is produced from fruit grown in the cool-climate abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Laetitia Vineyard, which is better known for Pinot Noir Brander 2010 Colson Canyon Vineyard than for Syrah. The maritime influence can be tasted in Nottingham Cellars 2010 Micro-Lot Re­ 91 Clone 877 Syrah (Santa Barbara Coun­ the acidity, which is bright and citrusy, and it provides 87 serve Hayes Ranch Syrah (Livermore ty). This Syrah shows ripe blackberry, mulberry and a firm backbone to the ripe black-cherry, red currant, Valley). Rich and concentrated, this Syrah is aged in currant flavors, plus notes of smoked meat, charred licorice, bacon, black pepper and cedar flavors. Drink French oak, and it offers flavors of bacon, smoky oak, bone, anise and black pepper. With firm tannins and this over the next five years. —S.H. tar and leather. It’s big and expressive, and it could use fine minerality, this clonal Syrah has great structure. It’s abv: 14.5% Price: $30 some time to open. Pair it with smoky meats that are big terrific to drink now after some time in a decanter, and in flavor. —V.B. it can also age for 6–8 more years. —S.H. Stolpman 2010 Estate Syrah (Santa Ynez abv: 15.4% Price: $40 abv: 14.6% Price: $35 90 Valley). Although it’s pretty tannic, with a furry quality throughout, this is pretty easy to drink. The fla- Tin Barn 2008 Coryelle Fields Vineyard Del Dotto 2006 Cinghiale Vineyard Syrah vors of blackberry jam, chocolate, bacon, black pepper 87 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). This has intense ac- 91 (Sonoma Coast). Ripe, smooth and rich, this and sandalwood are elaborate and rich. It might pick up ids and tannins that make it feel a bit rustic. But despite bears flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry jam, molas- some bottle complexity over the next 3–4 years. —S.H. the structure, it has delicious, upfront flavors of black- ses and black licorice. The tannins are thick and supple, abv: 14.1% Price: $30 berry, plum, currant, beef jerky, sweet oak and pepper. yet the mouthfeel remains firm. It finishes dry and spicy. Drink now. —S.H. This can be consumed now with roasted meat or beef Transcendence 2009 Syrah (Santa Ynez abv: 14.8% Price: $25 stew. —S.H. 90 Valley). This is high in alcohol, but it will eas- abv: NA Price: $75 ily pair with barbecue. It’s made from fruit grown in the Wellington 2008 Estate Vineyard Syrah warm Larner Vineyard in Santa Ynez Valley as well as 87 (Sonoma Valley). Dry and tannic, this Syrah db Winery 2010 Larner Vineyard Clone from the cool Lafond Vineyard in Santa Rita Hills. Rich, offers rich, spicy notes of blackberry, currant and leath- 90 3 Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara Coun­ dry and complex, it offers brisk, citrusy acidity to off- er. Drink it now with grilled lamb. —S.H. ty). This tastes like melted dark chocolate, blackberry set the ripe blackberry, currant and sandalwood flavors. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 essence, blackstrap molasses, black currant and black —S.H. pepper. It’s bone dry and dramatic, with chewy tannins. abv: 15.1% Price: $28 Fess Parker 2010 Syrah (Santa Barbara This is not a longterm ager, so drink it over the next 4–5 86 County). Complex, rich flavors of mulberry, years, and let it spend a few hours in a decanter. —S.H. Chateau Lettau 2010 Secret Stash Hal­ cola, leather, pepper and sandalwood mark this dry, tan- abv: 14.4% Price: $39 89 ter Ranch Vineyard Reserve Syrah (Paso nic Syrah. The texture is aggressive, with jagged tannins. Robles). This is a rich Syrah, with flavors of milk Ready to drink. —S.H. db Winery 2010 Larner Vineyard Estrel­ chocolate, blackberry jam, bacon and pepper that are abv: 14.9% Price: $28 90 la Clone Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara wrapped in smooth, thick tannins. It tastes a little sweet, County). Fruity, rich and tannic, this wine has flavors and it would be great paired with barbecued ribs that Flocchini 2010 Saddle-Up Syrah (So­ of blackberry, molasses, dark chocolate, licorice, bacon, are slathered in sauce. —S.H. 86 noma Coast). This feels a bit tough and gritty, smoky oak and pepper. It’s a dry, full-bodied effort that abv: 14.5% Price: $30 with stringy tannins that give the palate a rustic texture. should provide pleasant drinking over the next six years. The flavors are ripe, with notes of cherries, licorice and —S.H. Jorian Hill 2009 Syrah (Santa Ynez Val­ mocha. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $39 89 ley). A dry, rich 100% Syrah, this showcases the abv: 14.8% Price: $22 classic Santa Ynez structure of firm tannins and crisp Donelan 2010 Cuvee Christine Syrah acids, and it offers deep flavors of blackberry, cassis and Flocchini 2008 Saddle-Up Syrah (So­ 90 (Sonoma County). This 100% Syrah shows bacon. This 2009 is Jorian Hill’s best effort yet, and it’s 86 noma Coast). Seemingly sweet and mellow, intense blackberry, crème de cassis and plum sauce fla- already delicious to drink. —S.H. this tastes like white toast that has been spread with vors, plus hints of charred bone and black pepper. It’s abv: 14.1% Price: $24 raspberry jam and butter, sprinkled with cinnamon and dry, and the tannins are firm but supple. The alcohol is brown sugar. It’s already drinking well. —S.H. high, but it’s balanced with the wine’s fruit. —S.H. Melville 2011 Estate Verna’s Syrah (San­ abv: 14.6% Price: $22 abv: 14.9% Price: $45 89 ta Barbara County). This Syrah shows just a touch of smokiness. It has vital acids and furry tannins Mercy 2009 Zabala Vineyard Syrah (Ar­ Donelan 2010 Walker Vine Hill Syrah that structure the cherry pie flavor. Great for drinking 86 royo Seco). A vigorous, aggressive Syrah, this 90 (Russian River Valley). While this lacks now if you’re looking for a medium-bodied selection. is full bodied and tannic, and it deals assertive blackber- some of the immediate appeal of prior vintages, it’s a —S.H. ry, cherry, currant and sandalwood flavors. —S.H. better structured wine, with tannins and a rich vein of abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 13.9% Price: $28 acidity that gives a framework to the flavors of black­ berries, roasted meats, currants and pepper. Give this Brander 2010 Colson Canyon Vineyard Shadowbox 2009 Mountain Terraces 3–4 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 88 Clone 7 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). 86 Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Valley). The abv: 14.6% Price: $45 Can Syrah get any richer than this wine? It has mas- mouthfeel is a little gritty and rough in this 100% Syrah. sive flavors of chocolate, licorice, blackberry pie, brown It has a toothpick-like woodiness that likely comes from Joseph Swan Vineyards 2007 Trenton sugar, exotic spice and sandalwood that taste sweet yet having aged in 50% new oak. Underneath the oak are 90 Estate Vineyard Syrah (Russian River finish dry and smooth. The tannins are so thick, you flavors of blackberry, leather and anise. —S.H. Valley). This is a notable wine for its smooth, supple will need steak or lamb to wrestle them to the ground. abv: 14.5% Price: $44 tannins and its intense flavors of black cherry jam, mo- Drink now–2016. —S.H. cha, bacon, black pepper and sandalwood. It’s a full- abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Wellington 2008 Englandcrest Syrah (So­ bodied selection for drinking soon, and be sure to pair it 86 noma Valley). Impenetrably black in color, with almost anything involving cured meat. —S.H. db Winery 2010 Larner Vineyard Syrah this Syrah feels bone dry and tannic. It has all of the abv: 14.6% Price: $28 87 (Santa Barbara County). Currently, this Syr- hallmarks of an ageable wine, but the concentration of ah has tough tannins that seem stringy and chewy. But

54 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 blackberry and currant flavors is unlikely to outlast the grenache Rock Wall 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard tannins. Drink this over the next few years. —S.H. 90 Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma County). A abv: 14.4% Price: $18 Andis 2011 Grenache (Amador County). Zinfandel of sheer power, this is demonstrative of Rock 90 A structured, mountain-grown Grenache, with Wall’s style. The alcohol is very high, which brings heat White Oak 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). 20% Syrah in the mix, this features cherry cola, black and sweetness to the flavors of ripe blackberries, cur- 86 There’a soft sweetness to this wine that makes tea and meat flavors, plus oak tones and docile tannins. rants, anise and pepper. A touch of oak adds a mellow it immediately drinkable. The flavors are suggestive of It’s ready to drink, but it’s built to age for another 3–5 toastiness. Drink this now with rich stews and barbe- ripe red cherry, red licorice, red currant liqueur, mocha years. —V.B. cued meats. —S.H. and sweet oak. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 15.9% Price: $40 abv: 14.1% Price: $26 Horse & Plow 2011 Testa Vineyard Old Wellington 2008 Meeks Hilltop Ranch Flocchini 2011 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). 88 Vine Grenache (Mendocino). There’s not a 90 Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Soft, fruity and 85 Dry and tannic, this has a sharp, green texture lot of old-vine Grenache in California, so this Horse & spicy, this Zinfandel is starting to pick up some bottle- and flavor that hems in the blackberry and cherry notes. Plow selection made from Testa Vineyard fruit is worth age notes. The currant and black raspberry flavors are It’s a wine to drink with a burger or a meat loaf. —S.H. the hunt. It’s a bright, food-friendly wine, and it offers joined by sautéed mushroom and charred bone accents. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 light layers of raspberry and violet flavors. —V.B. The rich tannins suggest pairing it with roasted or bar- abv: 14% Price: $27 becued meats. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Flocchini 2009 Saddle-Up Syrah (So­ abv: 14.9% Price: $25 85 noma Coast). There’s a sharpness to this Syr- Wellington 2009 Estate Vineyard Gre­ ah that cuts across the palate like a knife. Even so, it 84 nache (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol makes Rock Wall 2010 Sven & Ole’s Reserve has ripe flavors of berries, cherries and currants. Pair it this Grenache seem hot and sweet in glycerine. It tastes 89 Zinfandel (California). Fans of powerful, with rich, fatty foods, like cheeseburgers, to help tame candied, with cherry pie and red licorice flavors. —S.H. fruit-driven Zinfandel will exult in this monster of a the acids. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $25 wine. It is an explosion of blueberry, raspberry, plum, abv: 14.9% Price: $22 blackberry, chocolate-covered raisin and sandalwood flavors. This is tannic, and the high alcohol gives it a Flocchini 2007 Saddle Up Syrah (So­ Petite Sirah glycerine-driven sweetness. —S.H. 85 noma Coast). Soft and already easy to drink, abv: 15.1% Price: $60 this exhibits California ripeness, and it offers cherry pie, Kokomo 2009 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). This feels bone dry and tannic, and it chocolate and red licorice flavors. —S.H. 87 Navarro 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino). has a ripe core of blackberry, mulberry and raisin fla- abv: 14.8% Price: $22 This is a balanced Zinfandel, and it offers ele- vors, with some bitterness on the finish. It is a sturdy 88 gant acids and burly red and black fruits. It’s a struc- wine, and while it’s not an ager, it will pair well with rich Gregory Graham 2008 Crimson Hill Vine­ tured effort, and it emits a subtle spice character. This barbecue. —S.H. 85 yard Estate Syrah (Red Hills Lake Coun­ will pair well with foods like pizza and pasta. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 ty). Made from fruit grown at a high elevation and in abv: 14.4% Price: $20 volcanic soil, this is a leathery, full-bodied tannic Syrah. Rock Wall 2010 Jack’s Vineyard Petite A taste of roasted coffee marks the finish. —V.B. Rock Wall 2010 Rockpile Road West­ Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Clean and dry, this abv: 14.5% Price: $20 82 phall Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Petite Sirah has aggressive tannins and overripe currant 88 County). There’s nothing shy about this Zinfandel. A and prune flavors. The high alcohol gives it a jalapeño- Joseph Swan Vineyards 2007 Great Oak kick in the teeth, this exudes the concentrated fruit of like burn. —S.H. 85 Vineyard Syrah (Russian River Valley). Sonoma County’s Rockpile area. It has hard tannins, abv: 15.3% Price: $35 This tastes overripe and Port-like. The flavors are of rai- and it’s front-loaded with currant, licorice and tobacco sins, currants, licorice and sweet caramelized oak. This flavors. Pair this with intensely-flavored, spicy grilled Tower 15 2010 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro­ is unlikely to evolve positively, so drink now. —S.H. meats. —S.H. bles). A heavy, dull wine, this is dry and tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 82 abv: 14.8% Price: $40 nic, and it offers blackberry, cassis and cedar flavors that seem thin. —S.H. Sage Road 2010 Syrah (Arroyo Grande Boneshaker 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). For abv: 14.9% Price: $18 85 Valley). Tough, dry and gritty, this Syrah has 87 full review see page 9. stringy tannins and citrusy acids. Its austerity is relieved abv: 15% Price: $25 by the blackberry and black currant flavors. Pair this with rich, fatty meats and cheeses to help soften the zinfandel Rock Wall 2011 Alegria Vineyard Zinfan­ mouthfeel. —S.H. Elyse 2009 Korte Ranch Zinfandel (St. 87 del (Russian River Valley). This Zinfandel abv: 14.3% Price: $20 90 Helena). Elyse has emerged as one of the most is a bit high in alcohol, which gives it a rustic-like heat. dependable producers of Zinfandel in California. This It’s dry, and while the tannins are firm, they’re supple. Three Saints 2009 Syrah (Happy Canyon wine shows some overripeness in the raisin flavor, but Somewhat overripe, this has flavors of blackberry jam, 85 of Santa Barbara). This Syrah is easy to drink there are plenty of blueberry jam, chocolate, baking prune, plum and mocha. Fans of big, full-bodied wines with barbecue, beef, lamb stew or other robust dishes. spice and sandalwood notes. The tannins are firm yet will love it. —S.H. It’s dry and savory, with black pepper, blackberry, cur- supple. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $25 rant and jerky flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $37 abv: 14.1% Price: $18 Weibel Family 2009 Zinfandel (Mendoci­ Joseph Swan Vineyards 2007 Mancini 87 no County). Thick, rich and almost cordial- Parkers Estate 2011 Riverside Crossing 90 Ranch Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). like, this has generous fruit and oak components. It’s 82 Syrah (North Coast). Red fruit dominant, This Zinfandel’s tannins are starting to resolve, which ready to be paired with a peppered steak. —V.B. this tight Syrah also offers whiffs of grenadine and per- gives the palate a soft, melted quality. The primary fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 fume. —V.B. vors are transforming into rich, dried black-raspberry abv: 13.8% Price: $20 and cherry notes, with leather, mocha, dried mushroom Benessere 2009 Black Glass Vineyard and spice accents. —S.H. 86 Estate Zinfandel (Napa Valley). While this abv: 14.1% Price: $28 wine has Napa elegance, it never completely loses the varietal’s rustic edge. It’s rich in briary berries, cola, to-

WineMag.com | 55 bacco and white pepper flavors, and it comes with an Port-like heat. With its raisin and chocolate flavors, this superb structure and massive flavors of sweet blackber- overripe, raisiny sweetness. —S.H. is Mazzocco’s signature style. —S.H. ry jam, black currants, dark chocolate and smoky oak. abv: 14.7% Price: $35 abv: 16.4% Price: $52 It shows the depth and concentration of the notable Stagecoach Vineyard, and it should easily hold and de- Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 Heritage Zin­ Mazzocco 2010 Briar Zinfandel (Dry velop in the bottle over the next 10 years. —S.H. 86 fandel (Sonoma County). Robust and spicy, 82 Creek Valley). This Zinfandel tastes and feels abv: 14.8% Price: $90 this is a Zinfandel to pair with barbecued ribs, burgers hot and Port-like. While some people enjoy this style, it and beef tacos. It has flavors of blackberries, green pep- feels a bit clumsy and overripe. Nonetheless, the black- Tudal 2010 Clift Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ percorns and toast. Drink this over the next two years berry, raisin and chocolate flavors are tasty. —S.H. 94 vignon (Oak Knoll). For full review see page for maximum freshness. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $32 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.3% Price: $42 Tin Barn 2010 Gilsson Vineyard Zinfan­ Twisted 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor­ 81 del (Russian River Valley). This tastes sweet Venge 2010 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvi­ 86 nia). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. and hot, which gives the flavors of blackberry and raisin 94 gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page abv: 13.5% Price: $8 a Port-like character. —S.H. 4. abv: 16% Price: $27 abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Zynthesis 2011 Zinfandel (Lodi). Loaded 86 with vibrant jammy fruit, this is a bright Zinfan- Tin Barn 2010 Los Chamizal Vineyard Corley 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ del that has a smoky grilled-meat note on the finish. Pair 80 Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This Zinfandel 93 gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page this with meaty dishes. Best Buy. —V.B. is alcoholic, and it’s dominated by overripe prune and 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $11 raisin flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 abv: 15.5% Price: $28 Brazin 2009 Monte Rosso Vineyard Zin­ Corley 2009 State Lane Vineyard Caber­ 85 fandel (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol gives 93 net Sauvignon (Yountville). This is an im- this dry, tannic wine some heat, and the overripe fruit cabernet sauvignon pressive 100% Cabernet that will reward some time in lends a raisiny, pruny tinge to the blackberry flavor. Goldschmidt 2009 Game Ranch Single the cellar. It shows the dryness, hard tannins, full body —S.H. Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon and classic black currant and cedar flavors characteristic abv: 15% Price: $35 97 of the varietal. There is no doubt about its ageability, so (Oakville). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $85 hold until 2017, at least. —S.H. Rock Wall 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard abv: 14.2% Price: $72 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). 85 Stagecoach is a World’s End 2009 Good Times, Bad Smith-Madrone 2007 Estate Bottled Cab­ highly regarded vineyard, but this Zinfandel doesn’t Times Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard show it at its best. This wine is too high in alcohol, and 96 ernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). For Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see 93 it has Port-like prune and blackberry flavors. It has hard full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. page 3. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 tannins that surface without sweetness. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $100 abv: 15.8% Price: $40 Terlato 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth­ Jonata 2007 El Desafio de Jonata (Santa Mazzocco 2010 Seaton Zinfandel (Dry erford). Rich and ripe, this Cabernet Sauvi- Ynez Valley). This wine’s blackberry and cur- 93 Creek Valley). Made in the Mazzocco style of 95 gnon-dominant wine is filled out with Merlot and Cab- 84 rant flavors are concentrated and ripe, and the notes of high alcohol and superripeness, this Zinfandel, which ernet Franc. It has enormous flavors of cherry tart, toasty new oak and chocolate gently ride over the fruit contains a splash of Petite Sirah, tastes like Port. The cassis, mocha and toast, and they seem to change with rather than overwhelming it. The spiced and sweet-tast- flavors of raisins and currants dominate, and it bears every sip. The tannin structure is smooth, with a dusty ing finish lasts for a full minute. Made from 95% Cab- glycerine sweetness and jalapeño-like heat. —S.H. astringency that provides grip. Already excellent, this ernet Sauvignon, this is one of the best Bordeaux-style abv: 16% Price: $32 should develop bottle complexity over the next 6–8 wines from Santa Ynez Valley. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125 years. —S.H. Four Vines 2010 Truant Zinfandel (Cali­ abv: 15.5% Price: $60 fornia). 83 A clean, everyday Zinfandel, this shows Patland 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Cab­ the varietal’s full body, tannins and spiciness. The fla- Bougetz 2010 Eminence Cabernet Sauvi­ ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- vors are of raspberries, cherries, cola, olives and pep- 95 gnon (Napa Valley). This dry, complex Cab- view see page 4. 92 per. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $90 ernet Sauvignon bears classic Napa tannins, plus layers abv: 14.5% Price: $12 of blackberry, black currant, violet, mineral and cedar Venge 2010 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet flavors. The grapes were grown in the Coombsville Girasole Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel (Men­ Sauvignon (Calistoga). For full review see area. Drink now, after decanting, and continue to drink docino). A fairly tannic Zinfandel, this is made 95 83 page 4. Cellar Selection. it through 2016. —S.H. from organic grapes. Enjoy with pizza or hamburgers. abv: 14.9% Price: $85 abv: 14.3% Price: $55 —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Napa Angel by Montes 2008 Aurelio’s Monticello 2009 Tietjen Vineyard Caber­ Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 92 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from Kokomo 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val­ 94 Valley). This is as soft and luscious as velvet, and it 100% Cabernet, this is a classic Napa Valley wine. It’s ley). This Zinfandel is a bit rustic, with a jagged 83 offers smooth, rich tannins that frame the oak-tinged dry, but the fruit is sweetly ripe, and it has firm, supple mouthfeel. It offers sweet-tasting varietal flavors of wild blackberry, black currant, anise and dark chocolate fla- tannins and balancing acids. The rich flavors are of dark berry, spice and tobacco, plus a touch of prune. —S.H. vors. Its richness comes with high alcohol, which gives it chocolate and black currants, with a heady note of sum- abv: 14.4% Price: $28 a slight warmth on the finish. —S.H. mer blueberries. This will evolve over the years, but it’s abv: 15% Price: $90 best enjoyed soon for its sheer deliciousness. —S.H. Mazzocco 2010 Smith Orchard Reserve abv: 14.2% Price: $72 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). 83 The high al- Patland 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard Cab­ cohol gives this wine glycerine-driven sweetness and 94 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This has Corley 2009 Yewell Vineyard Cabernet 91 Sauvignon (St. Helena). This 100% Caber-

56 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 net Sauvignon has massive waves of blackberry, black is now more oriented to Pinot Noir. Editors’ Choice. lar and tannic, so it might benefit from a few years in a currant and chocolate flavors that take over the palate, —S.H. cellar. —S.H. plus a sweet note of toast from the oak. It’s very tannic, abv: 14.7% Price: $20 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 which gives the mouthfeel an astringent hardness, so try giving it 6–8 years in a cellar, and it may even show well White Oak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon BonAnno 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon in 12–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 90 (Napa Valley). Full bodied and softly tannic, 87 (Napa Valley). Blackberry, currant, herb and abv: 14.2% Price: $72 this wine’s fruit is front and center, wrapped in a subtle cedar flavors abound in this dry, tannic Cabernet Sauvi- jacket of sweet oak. It dazzles with blackberries, cher- gnon. It shows Napa Valley class, and with 6,000 cases World’s End 2009 Crossfire Beckstoffer ries, raspberries, currants and chocolate flavors. Drink produced, it should be relatively easy to find. —S.H. 91 Missouri Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ now for its sheer lusciousness. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $20 vignon (Oakville). Lush and decadent, this wine has abv: 14.5% Price: $32 blackberry and blueberry jam, milk chocolate and toasty Bougetz 2010 Amaryllis Cabernet Sauvi­ oak flavors. And even with all of the richness, the finish Geyser Peak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 gnon (Spring Mountain). This shows an old- is dry and tannic. The gripping tannins suggest it can 89 (Alexander Valley). For full review see page fashioned Spring Mountain dryness and tannic astrin- age for for 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 10. Best Buy. gency, which makes it hard to enjoy at the moment. De- abv: 14.8% Price: $85 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 cant it for several hours to let it mellow so you can enjoy the deep core of black currant flavor. —S.H. Barrel Ranch 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Rock Wall 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.2% Price: $55 90 (California). This selection is from Terravant 89 (Napa Valley). This is hard in tannins and firm Wine Company, a custom-crush facility in Santa Bar- in acidity, which gives it fine structure. It’s not shy in fla- Kelleher 2008 Brix Vineyard Cabernet bara County. Dry and tannic, it shows classic Cabernet vor, and it offers waves of blackberries, black currants 87 Sauvignon (Oakville). Sweet-tasting black- Sauvignon character. It has a smoothness often associ- and cassis liqueur, plus a note of toasty new oak. While it berry-jam, cassis liqueur and chocolate flavors abound ated with Napa Valley wines and flavors of blackberry, could develop well with age, the forward fruit suggests in this oaky Cabernet. It’s a little one-dimensional and black currant and oak. Best Buy. —S.H. drinking it over the next five years. —S.H. high in alcohol, so drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $13 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 15% Price: $88

Donati 2010 Ezio Cabernet Sauvignon Wellington 2007 Karren Vineyard Caber­ Aje 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan­ 90 (Paicines). For full review see page 7. 89 net Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). Inky 86 der Valley). Heavy, dense and dry, this Caber- abv: 14.1% Price: $40 black in hue, this wine is enormously tannic, which gives net Sauvignon is stuffed with blackberry, currant, anise it a mouth-numbing astringency. Along with the struc- and licorice flavors, and it shows plenty of oak influence. Geyser Peak 2009 Block Collection Walk­ ture, it has a gigantic, sweet-tasting core of blackberry It’s also fairly tannic. Drink now. —S.H. 90 ing Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander jam and currant flavors, which breaks through the bit- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Valley). For full review see page 7. terness. Everything suggests ageability; it should mel- abv: 14.2% Price: $20 low after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali­ abv: 13.3% Price: $30 86 fornia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. Napa Angel by Montes 2008 Cabernet abv: 13.8% Price: $10 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and ripe, Wellington 1994 Mohrhardt Ridge Cab­ this has liberally oaked flavors of blackberry jam, black 89 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). The Donati 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Pa­ currant, dark chocolate and anise. It shows Napa Valley grapes used to make this wine were sourced from the 86 icines). Dry and tannic, yet smooth, this deals pedigree, but it’s tannic now, with mouth-numbing as- Fort Ross area of the far Sonoma Coast. The wine has earthy flavors of blackberries, currants, licorice and ce- tringency. Try holding this until 2016, then give it a de- thick, supple tannins and fine acidity. It shows earthy dar. Drink now for its freshness. —S.H. canting. Cellar Selection. —S.H. flavors of black currant, charred meat and cedar. Give abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $56 it some airing, and drink it with steaks and chops. Edi- tors’ Choice. —S.H. Faust 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Swanson 2009 Alexis Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 Valley). This is less ripe compared to many oth- 90 gnon (Napa Valley). This is Swanson’s top er Napa Cabernets, and it deals dry flavors of tobacco, Cabernet, which includes a splash of Merlot. As always, Cenay 2010 Blue Tooth Vineyard Caber­ herb, blackberry and currant. It’s pretty tannic, which it’s rich, tannic and dry, and it possesses a deep core of 88 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dry and tan- gives it some toughness that is unrelieved by richness. blackberry and black currant flavors. It seems more tan- nic, this Cabernet has of ripe flavors of black currant, —S.H. nic and sharp than in previous vintages, which suggests plum, dark chocolate, licorice and cedar. The texture abv: 14.2% Price: $55 its ageability. Try holding it until 2015. —S.H. feels a little jagged, so give it a few hours in a decanter, abv: 14.8% Price: $75 and drink it now–2016. —S.H. Purple Cowboy 2010 Trail Boss Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $40 86 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review Wellington 2007 Mohrhardt Ridge Caber­ see page 11. Best Buy. 90 net Sauvignon (Sonoma Coast). Here’s a Ehret 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights abv: 13.5% Price: $11 big, ripe and dry Cabernet with flavors of blackberry, 88 Valley). This is surprisingly tough and tan- molasses and dark chocolate that seem almost overripe nic for a 2007, but it does show the vintage’s impres- Ramspeck 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon due to a touch of raisin. Tannic and full bodied, it’s too sive fruit flavors. Notes of blackberry and cherry jam 86 (Napa Valley). A solid Cabernet for drinking robust to drink now, so give it 6–8 years in a cellar. Cel- are complexed by touches of cassis liqueur and smoky now, this is dry and tannic, yet it has sweet-tasting black- lar Selection. —S.H. cedar. The tannins will need to be tamed by rich, fatty berry and cherry flavors, plus a rich coating of smoky abv: 13.8% Price: $25 fare, like grilled steak. —S.H. oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Wellington 2002 Mohrhardt Ridge Caber­ 90 net Sauvignon (Sonoma Coast). This Cab- Aje 2008 Ellen’s Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ Wellington 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ernet has rich blackberry-jam and black licorice flavors, 87 vignon (Alexander Valley). Rich and fruity, 86 (Sonoma County). A little on the sweet-tast- and it also has a funky bacon note. The oak provides a this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is filled with ripe black- ing side, this Cabernet Sauvignon abounds with flavors pleasant backdrop of sweet toast. This shows how well berry, black currant and spice flavors. It’s a little angu- of blackberry and cherry pie filling, which give it a di- Cabernet can perform on the far Sonoma Coast, which rect, candied taste. The tannins and acids are superior,

WineMag.com | 57 and the wine should benefit from 3–4 years in a cellar. dot, this complex wine is rich and softly tannic. It shows Swanson 2009 Merlot (Oakville). Rich —S.H. the fat, fleshy appeal of Cabernet Franc from the great 88 black-cherry, currant, licorice, spice and san- abv: 13.7% Price: $22 2007 vintage, and it has developed a mellowness from dalwood flavors abound in this dry Merlot. It’s pretty bottle age. It still offers oak-infused blackberry, cher- tannic, with a gum-sticking astringency. It’s unlikely that Wellington 1989 Mohrhardt Ridge Cab­ ry and dark chocolate flavors, plus emerging notes of this will age well, so drink it now, after decanting, and 86 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This herbs. —S.H. pair it with rich meats. —S.H. Cabernet remains tough in tannins and a little harsh in abv: 14.9% Price: $125 abv: 14.8% Price: $38 acidity. The blackberry, roasted meat, pepper and toast flavors are rich and complex. —S.H. Oakville East 2010 Franc ’N Stern Cab­ Ramspeck 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). abv: 13.2% Price: $14 91 ernet Franc (Oakville). This elaborate wine 87 This is a lusty, softly tannic Merlot that has fla- offers delicious cherry-pie, mocha, red currant and san- vors of cherry jam, mocha, red licorice and vanilla. It Elements 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So­ dalwood flavors. The tannins are smooth and flashy, and shows some elegance and complexity. Drink now. Edi- 85 noma County). Spicy and fruity, rich and full it’s easy to drink. But it shows the limits of Cabernet tors’ Choice. —S.H. bodied, this has blackberry, cherry, currant, licorice and Franc, which simply doesn’t have the depth of Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cedar flavors. Let it breathe for a while to allow the tan- Sauvignon. —S.H. nins to soften. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 Rutherford Hill 2009 Merlot (Napa Val­ abv: 14.3% Price: $18 87 ley). This dry Merlot is marked by strong tan- Rock Wall 2010 Holbrook Mitchell Caber­ nins and ripe fruit. It shows bursts of black cherry, cur- Glenwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 net Franc (Napa Valley). This 100% Caber- rant, cola and cedar flavors, and it has an astringent tex- 85 (Napa Valley). This has dry, edgy tannins that net Franc shows the high alcohol, full body and concen- ture that’s unlikely to age away. Drink now. —S.H. make the palate feel a bit rough. It has rich, forward fla- trated power expected from a Rock Wall bottling. It’s abv: 13.9% Price: $25 vors of blackberries and oak. —S.H. dry with fuzzy tannins, and it has rich, complex flavors of abv: 14.4% Price: $25 cherry, red licorice, Canadian bacon, anise and crushed Schug 2009 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). An peppercorn. Decant it for a few hours, and enjoy it now 87 earthy Merlot, this has tobacco and dried sage Grayson 2011 Lot 10 Cabernet Sauvi­ with a steak. —S.H. flavors, plus black cherry and currant notes. It’s dry and 85 gnon (California). Dry and smooth, this full- abv: 15% Price: $40 tannic, but it’s not one to age. Let it breathe for at least bodied Cabernet has spicy cherry-pie, plum and cedar 30 minutes before serving. —S.H. flavors. It makes for a party wine. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.9% Price: $10 merlot White Oak 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Rutherford Hill 2009 Reserve Merlot Picket Fence 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Smooth, rich and mellow, this has flavors of (Napa Valley). While this doesn’t quite rival 87 (Alexander Valley). Good for everyday drink- 91 chocolate, raspberry, cherry and buttered toast that al- 85 the great 2007, it is superior to the 2008. Rich, con- ing, this Cabernet has smooth, dusty tannins. The black most taste sweet. The tannins and acids eventually kick centrated and structured, this has forward black-cher- cherry, tobacco and herb flavors are ready to drink now. in, and the finish turns nicely dry. Drink now. —S.H. ry, chocolate, anise and sandalwood flavors that are —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $26 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 wrapped in firm but smooth, supple tannins. It should develop in the bottle over the next six years, but it can Elements 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County). Shadowbox 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon also be consumed now. —S.H. Rich, sweet-tasting flavors of black cherry jam, abv: 14.4% Price: $65 85 85 (Napa Valley). This feels sharp and raw, with licorice and cedar abound in this dry, tannic Merlot. It ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry flavors, plus a streak feels a bit rough on the palate, so let it breathe in a de- Shafer 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). It’s im- of sweet, toasty oak. Drink now. —S.H. canter before drinking. —S.H. portant to not drink this Merlot right out of the abv: 14.5% Price: $70 91 abv: 14.3% Price: $18 bottle, because it’s pretty tannic, and thus it’s hard to ap- Three Saints 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon preciate the wine’s beautiful fruit. Give it some time in One And Done 2009 Merlot (California). 85 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). A rug- a decanter to reveal the complex flavors of blackberry, 85 Dry and full-bodied, this clean Merlot has ged Cabernet Sauvignon for everyday drinking, this is cherry jam, grilled prosciutto, cassis, red licorice, cola enough varietal character to satisfy. It offers blackberry dry and smoothly tannic, and it deals blackberry jam, and spice. It’s unclear if this will age for a long time, and currant flavors that are touched by a bit of oak. Best sage and cedar flavors. —S.H. but it can certainly be enjoyed over the next five years. Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $22 —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 abv: 15.3% Price: $50 Relic 2009 Artefact Cabernet Sauvignon Purple Cowboy 2010 Night Rider Merlot Terlato 2009 Angels’ Peak (Napa Valley). 84 (Napa Valley). Overripe and Port-like, this has 85 (Paso Robles). Sweet-tasting, jammy rasp- chocolate, raisin and blackberry jam flavors. It’s rich, 90 For maximum enjoyment, drink this almost all- berry and cherry flavors abound in this Merlot. It should and it has a prickly heat that comes from the high al- Merlot blend now. It shows ripe, lush black-cherry, red be easy to drink with burgers, enchiladas or ribs slath- cohol. —S.H. currant, plum and bacon flavors that finish spicy and ered in barbecue sauce. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $75 sweet tasting. The tannins are thick but smooth. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Cookies & Cream 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ Bota Box 2011 Merlot (California). For full Yates Family Vineyard 2009 Fleur de 83 gnon (California). Dry and tannic, this has 84 review see page 11. Best Buy. adequate blackberry, currant and oak flavors. —S.H. 90 Veeder Merlot (Mount Veeder). Made from abv: 13% Price: $21/3 L abv: 13.8% Price: $10 100% Merlot, this shows the enormous fruit of Mount Veeder. The cherry and blackberry flavors are concen- Donati 2010 Merlot (Paicines). Give this trated and pure, and there are liqueur-like notes of cas- 84 Merlot some time to breathe before serving. cabernet franc sis and anise, plus a sweet toast accent from the oak. It’s Right out of the bottle, it’s tough, gritty and tannic. It dry and quite tannic, but not to the extreme that it can’t Jonata 2007 El Alma de Jonata (Santa will never be a mellow wine, but it does have nice black- be consumed now. —S.H. cherry and licorice flavors. —S.H. 96 Ynez Valley). Based on Cabernet Franc, with abv: 14.7% Price: $40 splashes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver- abv: 14.4% Price: $25

58 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Grayson 2011 Lot 6 Merlot (California). but it could last for a decade or more. Cellar Selec- Wallis Family Estate 2010 Little Sister 84 This wine has the weight and silkiness of a Pi- tion. —S.H. 91 Proprietary Red Wine (Diamond Moun­ not Noir, but it has Merlot’s cherry, currant and anise abv: 14.4% Price: $130 tain). For full review see page 7. flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $45 abv: 13.9% Price: $10 Ferrari-Carano 2009 Trésor Red Wine 93 (Sonoma County). For full review see page 5. Ancient Peaks 2009 Oyster Ridge (Paso Wild Brush Cellars 2011 Tumbleweed abv: 14.4% Price: $52 90 Robles). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pe- 81 Vineyard Merlot (California). This bubble- tite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Malbec, this is bone dry and gum-like Merlot has candied red-currant, vanilla and Patland 2009 Terra Del Cuore (Napa Val­ full bodied, and it strikes the palate with rustic tannins. white sugar flavors. The acidity seems harsh. —S.H. 93 ley). Power and depth mark this blend of Cab- It has a complexity that’s hard to define, and it will pair abv: 13% Price: $19 ernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah. Midnight black in well with grilled meats or stews. —S.H. color, this has thick tannins, and sweet and savory flavors abv: 14.1% Price: $50 of blackberry jam, chocolate, bacon, black pepper and red blends vanilla. It should continue to develop over the next six Terlato 2009 Devils’ Peak (Napa Valley). years, at least. —S.H. This Cabernet Franc-based blend has rich fla- Terlato 2009 Episode (Napa Valley). Ter- 90 abv: 14.8% Price: $60 vors of red and black cherry jam, cherry liqueur and to- lato’s focus on Bordeaux-style red wines has 95 bacco. The oak influence shows in the form of toastiness paid off in the last several vintages, and this blend of Benessere 2008 Phenomenon (Napa Val­ and wood spiciness. With its smooth tannins, this wine Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot contin- ley). There is a ton of black pepper flavor in this will drink well now with a great steak. —S.H. ues the success streak. It has ripe, spicy flavors of black- 92 stylish blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Mer- abv: 14.4% Price: $48 berry jam, black currant and sweet, toasty oak, and the lot and Syrah. It also bears notes of licorice, sweet red tannin-acid structure is balanced. Still, it’s an astringent currants, grilled prosciutto and sandalwood. This tastes Tiedemann 2009 Signature Series (Napa wine that needs time in the cellar, so give it at least eight so rich that it almost seems sweet, but it’s actually dry Valley). This is a blend that’s based on Cab- years. It could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection. 90 and balanced. —S.H. ernet Sauvignon, and it has some Petite Sirah in the —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 mix. It’s dry and tannic, and it offers deep, ripe flavors abv: 14.4% Price: $175 of blackberry jam, black currant and cedar, as well as Jonata 2007 Todos Red Wine (Santa a salty grilled-meat note that’s reminiscent of charred Terlato 2009 Galaxy (Napa County). A Ynez Valley). Made from mostly Syrah and beef fat. This will pair well with grilled steak. —S.H. blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mer- 92 95 Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a compelling wine to drink abv: 14.4% Price: $45 lot, this is dry, smooth, rich and delicious, and it offers now. It exudes concentrated flavors of raspberry and waves of ripe blackberry, crème de cassis, dark choc- cherry that taste like they have been baked in pie crust Chateau Lettau 2007 Rockstar (Monterey olate and charred meat flavors, plus the spiciness of and sprinkled with baking spice. Notes of bacon, lico- County). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syr- sweet licorice and pepper. It can be consumed now, but 88 and sandalwood add further complexity. The struc- ah and Petite Sirah, this has firm tannins and ripe, for- it will also develop for 3–4 years. —S.H. ture is superb, with citrusy acids and supple tannins. All ward flavors of blackberries, currants and oak. Already abv: 14.4% Price: $85 profits from the sale of this wine go to Jonata’s vineyard throwing some sediment, it will continue to soften and crew. —S.H. Geyser Peak 2007 Reserve Alexandre mellow over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $50 abv: 15.2% Price: $28 94 Meritage (Alexander Valley). For full re- view see page 4. Editors’ Choice. Prospect 772 2010 The Brat Grenache- Conn Creek 2009 Anthology (Napa Val­ abv: 14.5% Price: $45 92 Syrah (Calaveras County). Concentrated 88 ley). Sweet and savory, this has flavors of red and bright, this blend of 63% Grenache and 37% Syrah Thomas Fogarty 2007 Lexington Mer­ cherry tart, red currant, licorice, cola, smoky sandal- has deep flavors of strawberry and licorice. Ready to age wood and baking spice. It’s a lovely wine for drinking itage (Santa Cruz Mountains). Opulent, 94 for several years, it has a mountain’s worth of tannins, now. Made from the classic Bordeaux varieties, this smooth and ageable, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based and yet it is incredibly light on its feet. Cellar Selec- shows real sophistication and elegance. —S.H. blend is rich in blackberries, currants and milk choco- tion. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 late, and it exudes a green olive tanginess that increases abv: 14.8% Price: $36 the pleasure. The tannins are thick but supple. This is a Donati 2010 The Immigrant (Paicines). wine that pleases right away, and it changes from sip to World’s End 2009 Wavelength Sugar­ With its savory black-pepper spiciness, this sip as it breathes. As excellent as it is now, it will develop 88 loaf Mountain Vineyard Syrah-Cabernet blend will stand up to spicy foods, such as peppered bottle complexity for at least 10 more years. —S.H. 92 Franc (Napa Valley). This is one of the most suc- steaks or beef tacos. It’s a bone dry wine, with strong abv: 14.8% Price: $60 cessful Syrah-Cabernet Franc blends in California. The but pliant tannins. Drink now. —S.H. Syrah brings blueberry and bacon flavors, and the Cab- abv: 14.4% Price: $40 Wellington 2007 Victory Reserve Mer­ ernet provides the black currant note and the tannic itage (Sonoma County). This is one of the 94 backbone. It’s already delicious to drink, but allow it to Epiphany 2010 Revelation (Santa Barba­ best Bordeaux-style blends Wellington has ever pro- breathe in a decanter for one or two hours. —S.H. ra County). This blend of Syrah and Grenache duced. Although it still has plenty of life ahead, perhaps 87 abv: 14.8% Price: $69 bears ripe, forward flavors of blackberry and cherry jam, as much as 10 more years, its soft tannins and sweet dried currant, anise and cedar. The tannins are massive, black-currant flavor make it drinkable now. Only 471 Terlato 2009 Cardinals’ Peak (Napa Val­ but ripe and sweet, and there is a green note that gives cases were produced, but it’s worth the hunt. —S.H. ley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot the wine some bitterness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 91 and Cabernet Franc exemplifies the Terlato style, which abv: 15.5% Price: $40 is classic, complex and drinkable early. It has rich, thick Constant 2007 Diamond Mountain Vine­ tannins and flavors of blackberries, mocha and cedar. Keenan 2009 Mernet Reserve (Spring yard MF Claret (Napa Valley). This dry, lush 93 The finish is long and spicy. —S.H. Mountain). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sau- wine has deep flavors and dramatic layers of blackberry 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 vignon and Cabernet Franc, this is precise and elegant. and cherry tart flavors that have a liqueur-like density The firm Spring Mountain tannins and concentrated and sweetness, accented by a toasty, buttery oak note. black-cherry, currant and mineral flavors impress. But The tannins are pure, thick and refined. This needs time it’s astringent, with a dryness that’s difficult to appreci- for all of its parts to come together, so hold it until 2015,

WineMag.com | 59 ate. It might develop over the years, but the outcome is Bogle 2009 Phantom (California). The tex- cherry and raspberry jam that finish sweet and spicy. uncertain. —S.H. 85 ture’s a little rough in this fruity wine, but it’s The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel. abv: 14.8% Price: $96 fine to drink now with burgers, barbecue or Mexican. —S.H. Blended from Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Sea Shell Cellars 2010 Balboa Reserve that’s grown in the Delta and the Sierra Foothills, it has 87 Estate (Paso Robles). Ripe, forward flavors blackberry and blueberry flavors. —S.H. R8 2011 Red (California). This Cabernet of raspberry and cherry jam and spice mark this blend abv: 14.5% Price: $16 84 gets the job done with its blackberry, cherry and of , Grenache and Mourvèdre. Dry and oak flavors. It’s nice and dry, and it will wash down a crisp, it has tannins that make the palate pucker, and it Corley 2009 Proprietary Red Wine (Napa hamburger. —S.H. calls to be paired with beef, lamb or pork. —S.H. 85 Valley). Made from equal parts of Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 14.8% Price: $32 Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this is dry, tan- nic and oaky, and it offers blackberry jam and black cur- Tower 15 2010 The Swell (Paso Robles). Sea Shell Cellars 2010 Low Tide (Paso rant flavors. —S.H. 83 A blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit 87 Robles). This bears blackberry, black currant abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Verdot, this is heavy, soft and fruity, delivering a black- and cherry liqueur flavors, and the 12% Syrah compo- berry flavor and a dry finish. —S.H. nent seems to bring a peppery roasted-meat note. Al- Derby 2009 Derby Vineyard Fifteen 10 abv: 14.8% Price: $21 though the wine is technically dry, it’s a little warm and 85 Red (Paso Robles). Aggressive in texture, sweet in glycerine—the result of high alcohol. Drink this Syrah-based Rhône-style blend has jagged tannins Four Brix 2010 Rhondezvous (Paso Ro­ now. —S.H. and a sharp green-peppercorn flavor. With its rough- 81 bles). There’s a vegetal underripeness to this abv: 14.9% Price: $28 and-tumble mouthfeel, it calls to be paired with simple Grenache-based blend. The asparagus flavor is matched fare, like tacos, pizzas or burgers. —S.H. to the sweet cherry and pickle relish notes, accented by Stolpman 2010 La Caudrilla (Santa Ynez abv: 14.5% Price: $28 sour acidity. —S.H. 87 Valley). Juicy currant, plum, leather, spice and abv: 14.6% Price: $37 sandalwood flavors abound in this dry, interesting blend Donati 2010 Claret (Paicines). Juicy black- of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Viognier. The fruit 85 berry jam, anise and oak flavors abound in this Purple Cowboy 2011 Tenacious Red is framed by brisk acids and firm tannins. All of the prof- dry, tannic Cabernet. The palate is a little sharp in tex- 81 (Paso Robles). Simple and tart, this has green its from the sale of this wine go to the winery’s full-time ture, and it is unlikely to age well, so drink now. —S.H. mint and sour cherry-candy flavors. —S.H. vineyard crew. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Super Sonoman 2009 Meritage (Sonoma Annabella 2010 Red (California). While it 85 County). The tannins and raisin flavor stick out other red wines 86 does have a mint flavor, this spicy blend of Cab- on this bone-dry, rustic Bordeaux-style blend. It offers Stolpman 2009 Estate Sangiovese (San­ ernet Sauvignon, Syrah and several other varieties is a rich notes of blackberry tart, dark chocolate and roasted 90 ta Ynez Valley). Stolpman grows its Sangio- fine wine to drink now with pizzas, chili and hamburg- almonds. Drink now. —S.H. vese in an area of the Santa Ynez Valley where most pro- ers. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 ducers specialize in Rhône varieties. The result is often abv: 13.5% Price: $16 one of the most interesting California interpretations of Troublemaker by Austin Hope NV Blend the great Tuscan grape. Give this a long decanting be- Banknote 2009 The Vault (Napa Valley). 4 (Paso Robles). This blend of Syrah and 85 cause right out the bottle it’s acidic and closed, but then A rustic but tasty wine, this has blackberry, cur- several other Rhône varieties is easy to like for its full- 86 the rich, spicy cherry flavor surfaces. —S.H. rant, tobacco and cedar flavors. Made from Zinfandel, bodied flavors of currants, leather and spices. With its abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in roughly equal propor- grippy tannins, this will pair well with ribs, burgers and tions, it’s dry, tannic and meant to be consumed now. tacos. —S.H. Fort Ross 2007 Fort Ross Vineyard Pi­ —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 notage (Sonoma Coast). Rich and toasty, abv: 14.5% Price: $32 this has aromas barrel-dominated aromas and flavors of Walker 2007 Red (Napa Valley). Made vanilla and sweet, buttery oak. The underlying wine is Epiphany 2009 Gypsy (Santa Barbara from Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, 85 strong in cherry and balsam flavors, which are girded by County). Sweet-tasting, jammy raspberry and this blend is soft, fruity and sweetly oaky. It has vanil- 86 considerable tannins. Pair this with game meats, stews cherry flavors abound in this Grenache-based blend. la-infused raspberry and cherry pie flavors. Best Buy. or barbecue to wrestle the structural elements into sub- there are also notes of orange zest, grilled prosciutto, —S.H. mission. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 black pepper and sandalwood. The mouthfeel is sim- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ple, and the finish is a bit hot and heavy with glycerine. Fess Parker 2010 The Big Easy (San­ —S.H. Kokomo 2010 Malbec (Chalk Hill). Inky ta Barbara County). Made from Syrah, Pe- abv: 15.8% Price: $25 84 black in hue, this dry, full-bodied wine has hard tite Sirah and Grenache, this robust, tannic blend has 88 tannins and a sweet black-currant flavor, which makes it Jorian Hill 2009 BEEspoke (Santa Ynez sweet-tasting jam and cola flavors, plus a note of pep- a great selection to pair with steak. If you drink it now, Valley). This Rhône-style blend is rich and for- pery spice. It’s a little hot due to the high alcohol, and it 86 give it a few hours of decanting. —S.H. ward, with blackberry, cherry and raspberry jam flavors. has a touch of green vegetable on the midpalate. Drink abv: 14.1% Price: $36 A sweet, spicy flavor is pretty much all you get. —S.H. up. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Benessere 2009 Estate Sangiovese (Napa Valley). Benessere has stuck with San- Sea Shell Cellars 2010 Vineyard Collec­ Insomnia 2010 Red (California). Rustic 87 giovese for many years. This is rich and fruity, and it tion Estate (Paso Robles). This is a blend and a little sweet tasting, this has flavors of cher- 86 84 offers jammy red-fruit, currant and chocolate flavors. of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Tempranillo. The ry pie, red currant and toast. Drink it with cheeseburg- Its smooth tannins and softness make it drinkable now. wine is dry, tannic and light to medium bodied, and it ers. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 has cherry, pepper, vanilla and smoke flavors. Ready to abv: 14.5% Price: $28 drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $28 Mad Crush 2010 Red (California). Ripe, 84 fruity and tannic, this shows lusty flavors of

60 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Chateau Lettau 2010 Bella Collina Vine­ Foundry Vineyards 2011 Oak Chardon­ low in alcohol and clean. Bracing and leesy, this is defi- 85 yard Stiletto Tempranillo (Paso Robles). 92 nay (Columbia Gorge). This is made from nitely European in style, and it offers celery and mel- This has sweet-tasting cherry-pie and oak flavors, plus fruit that was sourced from the same vineyard and on flavors along with palate-refreshing minerality. Best pleasant acids and soft tannins. It tastes like a cross be- picked at the same brix level as Foundry’s Stainless Buy. —P.G. tween a warm-climate Pinot Noir and a fruity Merlot. Chardonnay bottling. But here the toast of new oak abv: 11.9% Price: $13 —S.H. adds a lovely flavor to the smooth butterscotch and ap- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 ple notes. It opens gracefully and quickly, but the Stain- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Chardonnay less bottling has more grip and complexity. —P.G. 87 (Columbia Valley). This bears apple and pear Peacock Cellars 2010 Barbera (Paso Ro­ abv: 12.6% Price: $28 flavors that are set amidst buttery, toasty accents. It’s 84 bles). Soft and simple, this bears cola, cherry smooth and easy to drink, and the mouthfeel has a cer- pie, red currant and pepper flavors that finish sweet- Maison Bleue 2011 Au Contraire French tain oiliness. —P.G. tasting. This is a fine choice to drink with pizza and 92 Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Val­ abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Mexican food. —S.H. ley). Focus and elegance are the hallmarks of this wine, abv: 14.1% Price: $32 and it offers the fruit purity that characterizes virtually Mercer Estates 2011 Chardonnay (Co­ all of Maison Bleue’s white wines. From the first sniff to 87 lumbia Valley). This is a smooth, easy-drink- Rock Wall 2010 The Palindrome the last, resonating swallow, this smells and tastes like a ing Chardonnay, and it offers light tropical flavors of ba- 84 (California). This is dry, tannic and sharp in bowl full of peaches, pineapples and mixed stone fruits. nana and melon. There’s a scent and underlying flavor acidity. It has a significant core of black cherry fruit, but It’s tight and defined, and it doesn’t have new oak influ- of cracker and toast, which has not yet integrated with it seems overripe, as it develops a prune flavor. Drink ence. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. the fruit, but it may improve with further bottle age. now. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $25 —P.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $30 abv: 13.8% Price: $15 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Unoaked 91 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Part of Snoqualmie 2010 Chardonnay (Colum­ washington a Limited Release series, this is an all-stainless Char- 87 bia Valley). On the soft and buttery side, this donnay. Ripe, tart and focused, it offers spicy bursts of Chardonnay doesn’t hold back on the popcorn aroma. chardonnay yellow and green fruits, and it shows a sur lie-derived Once past that, you’ll find a pretty flavor that tastes like texture. The pinpoint details are gorgeous. Editors’ a piece of spiced, fresh-baked . Best Buy. Foundry Vineyards 2011 Stainless Char­ Choice. —P.G. —P.G. 94 donnay (Columbia Gorge). This Chardon- abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13.7% Price: $10 nay includes a small amount of Maria Gomes—an ob- scure white grape from Portugal—in the mix. The ad- Januik 2010 Cold Creek Vineyard Char­ Columbia Crest 2010 Two Vines Char­ dition of Maria Gomes works magic. It fleshes out the 91 donnay (Columbia Valley). This focused ef- 85 donnay (Washington). The Two Vines Char- palate, and it brings lush flavors of melon, banana, apple fort features fresh-cut apple and pear flavors that are donnay is simple, clean and reliable. Suggestions of and lemon. This needs to breathe, but once it opens, spicy and tightly wrapped with a Bourbon-barrel-like green apple and white peach appear on the palate. Best it will thrill you until the last drop. Editors’ Choice. accent. Delicious now, but it can be cellared for a de- Buy. —P.G. —P.G. cade at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 12.6% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Hedgeline 2011 Chardonnay (Washing­ Januik 2011 Bacchus Vineyard Char­ Helix by Reininger 2011 Chardonnay 85 ton). Soft and somewhat waxy in texture, this is 93 donnay (Columbia Valley). One wishes that 90 (Columbia Valley). The Helix Chardonnay is a dry, muted Chardonnay. The flavors suggest sweet hay Mike Januik made more Rieslings, as the few he’s made a lush offering of pineapple flavor, plus a leesy, miner- and light tree fruits, and the finish fades quickly. —P.G. from Bacchus Vineyard fruit have been excellent. This al-soaked midpalate that is supremely refreshing. It has abv: 12.5% Price: $18 is made in a bright, spicy, palate-pleasing style, and it terrific acidity and persistence on the palate. Editors’ offers lively flavors of citrus, orange and pear. A hint of Choice. —P.G. mint, a splash of jasmine tea, and an engaging, long, re- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 viognier freshing finish all add to the pleasure. Editors’ Choice. Maison Bleue 2011 Notre Vie Arthur’s —P.G. Upland Estates 2010 Chardonnay Vineyard Viognier (Yakima Valley). This abv: 12.5% Price: $20 94 90 (Snipes Mountain). The inclusion of 11% Viognier is easily Maison Bleue’s best yet, and it sets a Aligoté, which was sourced from a block planted in Abeja 2011 Chardonnay (Walla Walla Val­ high standard for every Viognier in the state. It’s super- 1979, makes this Chardonnay unique. The Aligoté rich and concentrated without being fat, jammy, bitter ley). Made from fruit that was sourced entire- 92 seems to thicken the core fruit, and it adds flesh and or hot. The explosion of citrus, stone fruit and light trop- ly from the 1.5-acre estate vineyard, this limited-pro- rind-like flavor, along with old-vine details of dried herb ical fruit flavors seems to extend indefinitely on the fin- duction, Dijon-clone-based Chardonnay captures the and spice. It’s a pleasing mix of integrated stone-fruit, ish. Details of mineral, baking spice and honeysuckle essence of the Abeja style. Complex, stylish and but- grain and citrus-peel notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. add interest. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tery, it’s a striking, fruit-laden wine. The long, clean fin- abv: 13.6% Price: $22 abv: 13.3% Price: $25 ish mixes a flavor of citrus rind with a streak of butter- scotch. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Ken Wright 2010 Celilo Chardonnay Watermill 2011 Viognier (Columbia Val­ abv: 13.8% Price: $40 88 (Washington). Made from Celilo Vineyard ley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ fruit, this has a sharp-toned bite to its aromas and fla- 92 Forgeron 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Choice. vors. Hints of tropical fruits can be found, but the core abv: 14.5% Price: $16 92 Valley). Roughly half of the blend is made of the wine is citrusy. A suggestion of light caramel sur- from fruit that comes from 30-year-old vines. An addi- faces on the finish. —P.G. Syncline 2011 Alder Ridge Vineyard tion of 6% Muscat adds a scent of tree fruit, and the abv: 13.2% Price: $33 Viognier (Horse Heaven Hills). Dusty lovely citrus and stone fruit flavors are enhanced by a 89 and detailed, this pure Viognier incorporates notes of fresh-baked bread note. It has excellent concentration Mercer Canyons 2011 Chardonnay (Co­ lemon-­pepper; tart, fresh lemon pulp and rind; plus and impeccable balance, plus a long, satisfying finish. 88 lumbia Valley). The new Mercer Canyons la- a hint of curry powder. This should make an interest- Editors’ Choice. —P.G. bel gets off to a good start with this Chardonnay that’s abv: 14.1% Price: $27

WineMag.com | 61 ing accompaniment to raw clams or oysters. Editors’ Drink this with herb-roasted chicken or pasta primav- Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Choice. —P.G. era. —P.G. 88 Blanc (Columbia Valley). This has been abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $32 barrel-­fermented and aged, yet it retains more than a hint of the grape’s natural herbaceousness. Sharp-edged Ott & Murphy 2011 Viognier (Columbia Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Waussie and assertive, it might pass for a Quincy from the Loire 88 Valley). There’s a change in the 2011 blend: 88 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Part of a Lim- Valley. —P.G. There’s no Roussanne, and it’s almost one-quarter Mar- ited Release series, this is quite dry despite the 12% al- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 sanne. It’s a tight, steely wine, with bracing acidity and cohol. It’s lightly spritzy and fragrant of honeysuckle and citrus rind flavor, which is reflective of the vintage. apples. Fresh and lively, this demonstrates ex- Snoqualmie 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Co­ Grapefruit and Meyer lemon notes come into play, and cellent balance. —P.G. 88 lumbia Valley). Fleshy and fruity, fresh and it remains balanced through the finish —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $22 full bodied, this generous wine offers scents of orange abv: 13.3% Price: $20 peel and citrus, and the palate exudes ripe flavors of Hedgeline 2011 Riesling (Washington). grapefruit, lime and a hint of melon. Best Buy. —P.G. 88 Despite having 12.5% alcohol, the palate im- abv: 13.4% Price: $8 GewÜrztraminer pression is not sweet. Instead, it’s bright and tangy, Upland Estates 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Pacific Rim 2011 Gewürztraminer (Co­ with flavors of citrus pulp and citrus rind. Notes of or- ange and tangerine dominate the bright, bracing finish. (Snipes Mountain). Consistent in every way lumbia Valley). Lush and round, floral 88 91 —P.G. with the previous vintage, this barrel-fermented Sauvi- and fruity, this only hints at residual sugar. The acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 gnon Blanc includes 9% Sémillon, both of which were ity makes for a bracing palate that offers highlights of sourced from 15-year-old vines. It’s aromatic with scents clover and honeysuckle, plus rich notes of stone fruits. Mercer Canyons 2011 Riesling (Yaki­ of sweet herb and citrus, and it tastes of Meyer lemon Best Buy. —P.G. ma Valley). The lush nose is fragrant of or- abv: 12% Price: $11 88 and grapefruit, plus a hint of brioche. —P.G. ange blossoms and ripe peaches, and the palate tastes abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Gewürztra­ of Meyer lemon, lime and grapefruit. It’s a fruit punch of a Riesling—delicious as a chilled sipper. Best Buy. Mercer Estates 2011 Estate Grown Sau­ miner (Columbia Valley). Off-dry and bal- 88 —P.G. vignon Blanc (Yakima Valley). Clean, tart anced, this wine exudes floral and spicy aromas. It has a 87 abv: 11.9% Price: $13 and herbal, this Sauvignon Blanc has front-and-center citrus highlight and a rose petal scent. A total of 65,000 flavors of bright citrus and green apple. A slight hint of cases were produced. Best Buy. —P.G. Columbia Crest 2011 Two Vines Riesling abv: 11.5% Price: $9 baking spice comes through on the finish. —P.G. 87 (Washington). This is just a bit on the sweet abv: 13.4% Price: $15 Upland Estates 2010 Gewürztraminer side, but there is plenty of acidity to be found. It’s fruity, peachy, succulent and fresh. Best Buy. —P.G. (Snipes Mountain). Upland Estates produc- 87 abv: 11.5% Price: $8 es Gewürztraminer as an off-dry, fruity wine. The nose white blends displays a scent of powdered sugar, and the palate of- Ott & Murphy 2011 Boushey Vineyard Mercer Estates 2011 Estate Grown Ries­ fers flavors of hard candy and lemon-lime. Ripe, round L’Entente Blanc (Yakima Valley). A blend ling (Yakima Valley). Broad and a bit flat on 88 and mouth-filling, this is a fruit-powered selection. Best 87 of Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, with a dribble of the palate, this wine has flavors of lemon and grapefruit Buy. —P.G. Roussanne, this offers fruit that falls on the cool side of rind, light stone fruit and a dash of mineral. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $12 tropical. It has fine balance and length. —P.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $15 abv: 13.9% Price: $27 Snoqualmie 2011 Winemaker’s Select riesling Syncline 2011 Subduction White (Colum­ Riesling (Columbia Valley). This wine does 86 bia Valley). The blend in 2011 includes five Pacific Rim 2010 Wallula Vineyard Biody­ not display the Riesling sweetness scale that’s found on 88 different white Rhône grapes: Viognier, Roussanne, namic Riesling (Columbia Valley). Made most Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Rieslings. This is off 95 Marsanne, Picpoul and Grenache Blanc. It’s a sharp- from grapes sourced from a biodynamically farmed dry, and it has punchy peach, pear and apple flavors. edged wine, with obvious fruit-skin flavors. Citrus and vineyard, this wine puts on an almost-magical display Best Buy. —P.G. pineapple notes resolve on the finish, which has a touch of flower and citrus scents. Deep and concentrated, this abv: 10.8% Price: $8 of bitterness. —P.G. has harmonious and potent flavors, and it is amazing abv: 13% Price: $20 how the delicate floral aspect cuts across the juicy, cit- rusy taste. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. sauvignon blanc Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve White abv: 13.9% Price: $32 Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve Sauvignon 86 Blend (Columbia Valley). This Rhône-style Blanc (Horse Heaven Hills). This has great Tapteil Vineyard 2011 Argus Bone Dry 91 white blend has a floral highlight that leads into tart viscosity and bracing minerality, plus a tongue-tick- white fruit, jicama, celery and melon flavors. A light Riesling (Yakima Valley). This bone-dry- 92 ling texture. The refreshing palate offers gooseberry grass-like note is also apparent, and the palate could use tasting wine is made from grapes that were sourced and melon notes, which combine to make this a go-to some more concentration. —P.G. from the Alayt Vineyard. It marries light hints of flowers substitute. One can only hope production in- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 to notes of citrus, apples and pears, which taste more creases from the miserly two barrels that were made in like the fruits’ textural skin than its sweet flesh. The im- this vintage. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. pressive minerality, depth and length elevate this bot- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 other white wines tling to the A-list of Washington Rieslings. Editors’ Maison Bleue 2011 Boushey Vineyard Choice. —P.G. Arbor Crest 2011 Bacchus Vineyard Sau­ abv: 12% Price: $17 Petite Joie Marsanne (Yakima Valley). vignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Redolent 92 88 This pure Marsanne was whole-cluster pressed and of intense grapefruit and pineapple, this is a classy, fruit- Pacific Rim 2010 Solstice Vineyard Ries­ fermented in French oak barrels—30% of which were driven single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. Although this ling (Columbia Valley). The four-decade-old new. It’s full and flavorful, and it has a lemony richness 90 is aged entirely in stainless steel, there is a hint of crack- vines have lent this wine unusual flavors of forest mush- that’s streaked with veins of butterscotch and marzi- er on the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. room, lemon rind and verbena. It tastes completely dry, pan. As with all of this winery’s 2011 white wines, the abv: 13% Price: $10 and it has a tartness that carries through the palate.

62 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 aromatics are excellent and the length is exceptional. dazzle you for up to a decade or more. Cellar Selec- saturated note of blackberry syrup. A touch of dark —P.G. tion. —P.G. chocolate infuses the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $35 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 abv: 15% Price: $30

Merriman 2011 Old Vine The Brasher Januik 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syr­ Dumas Station 2010 Estate Syrah (Walla 90 Block Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley). 92 ah (Red Mountain). In 2008, Januik made a 90 Walla Valley). Dumas Station draws its fruit Bone dry and hinting at a sweet herb flavor, this wine single-vineyard Syrah from Lewis Vineyard fruit; now from the excellent Minnick Hills Vineyard. This 100% backs away from the fruitiness found in most domestic the winery has sourced fruit from Ciel du Cheval Vine- Syrah takes no prisoners: Its superconcentrated flavors Chenin Blanc. It offers complex details of yellow fruit, yard, one of the superstar spots on Red Mountain. A of blackberry syrup, maple syrup, espresso, dark choc- lemon verbena and beeswax. —P.G. compact wine that snaps right into focus, this offers va- olate and vanilla rock-and-roll across the palate, pro- abv: 13% Price: $22 rietal flavors of fig, berry and plum. A streak of smooth pelled by the high alcohol. —P.G. chocolate weaves through the finish, along with a hint abv: 15.5% Price: $34 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Pinot Gris of red licorice and underlying slate-like minerality. Edi- 88 (Columbia Valley). Ste. Michelle’s reliable tors’ Choice. —P.G. Kaella 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syr­ Pinot Gris has lively, crisp and spritzy qualities, and it abv: 14.4% Price: $35 90 ah (Red Mountain). This wine emits details boasts flavors of melon and pear. There was 4% Viog- of iron and citrus rind along with somewhat stark, tight nier added to the mix, which has contributed a pleasing Maison Bleue 2010 Boushey Vineyard fruit flavors that are often associated with Red Moun- floral aroma. Best Buy. —P.G. 92 Liberté Syrah (Yakima Valley). Made from tain Syrah. Racy and bracing, this will improve with 1–2 abv: 13% Price: $13 fruit from what many consider to be the finest site for more years in the bottle. —P.G. growing Syrah in the state, this wine opens gracefully to abv: 14.3% Price: $35 Syncline 2011 Boushey Vineyard Gr­ reveal scents of plump berry, vanilla and tobacco. Brief- 88 enache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Syncline’s ly aged in a mix of one- and two-year-old French oak Purple Star 2009 Syrah (Columbia Val­ winemaker James Mantone is putting out a fascinating barrels, it offers concentrated berry and black cherry 90 ley). Made from fruit that was sourced from lineup of single-vineyard 100%-varietal wines from un- flavors that never turn syrupy. The crisp acidity suggests Olsen Vineyards, this Syrah’s blackberry, cherry and usual grapes like Grenache Blanc. Lime and grapefruit cellaring for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. pepper flavors and fine-grained tannins combine to scents and flavors are evident, along with light Asian abv: 14.5% Price: $40 make a wine with good length and a clean finish. Edi- pear and jicama highlights. The cool vintage emphasizes tors’ Choice. —P.G. a gin-like botanical flavor. This is a balanced effort, with Rasa Vineyards 2009 Principia Reserve abv: 14.2% Price: $16 a medium-long finish. —P.G. 92 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Firm and mus- abv: 14.1% Price: $26 cular, this has a supple core of blue and purple fruits, Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Nina Lee plus balancing acids, ripe tannins and no overt oak influ- 90 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This Syrah is Syncline 2011 Boushey Vineyard Mar­ ence. It’s long and seamless. —P.G. aged for 21 months in 100% French oak—half of which 88 sanne (Yakima Valley). Out of Syncline’s abv: 15.2% Price: $85 was new. Spring Valley Vineyard has had a dramatic ex- lineup of pure, varietal white Rhône-style wines, the pansion, which has allowed it to increase production Marsanne may be the most complete. It deals melon Reininger 2009 Syrah (Walla Walla Val­ without damaging quality. Soft and smooth, this offers a and Mandarin orange flavors, which are set amidst light, 92 ley). This Syrah is at the top of the lineup for pretty raspberry flavor that’s lightly peppery, with a hint floral notes and supporting acids. Round and balanced, Reininger. It’s tightly wound, yet it opens gracefully to of sweet grain and a side note of orange peel that rides this is drinking quite well now, and it can be kept for an- reveal deep flavors of blueberry and plum, with reso- on the tip of the tongue. It’s a pleasure to drink already, other 2–3 years. —P.G. nating notes of earth, iron, espresso and dark choco- although it can be cellared for another 6–8 years. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $26 late. This can age for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $50 —P.G. Mercer Estates 2011 Pinot Gris (Yakima abv: 14.8% Price: $44 Tapteil Vineyard 2008 Spilya Vineyard 86 Valley). An aroma of fresh-cut pear introduces 90 Syrah (Yakima Valley). Threads of licorice, this clean, tart, fresh Pinot Gris. There is little in the Eight Bells 2010 Red Willow Vineyard steel, earth and smoke weave through the proportion- way of complexity, but the purity of the fruit is impres- 91 Clonal Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). A ate strawberry and raspberry flavors, offset by hints of sive. —P.G. blend of eight different Syrah clones and a splash of herb and baking spice. It’s a seamless, complex wine of abv: 12.6% Price: $15 Gre­nache, this is dark and sappy, with dense veins of cit- moderate length. —P.G. rus oil, licorice, coffee liqueur and black tea that are an- abv: 14.5% Price: $27 chored by a solid black-cherry flavor. This should drink syrah well for a decade or longer. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Ethos Re­ serve Syrah (Columbia Valley). àMaurice 2009 Fred Syrah (Walla Walla abv: 14.8% Price: $32 89 Made from Cold Creek and Wahluke Slope fruit, this pure Syrah Valley). This estate-grown Syrah is racy, spicy 93 Helix by Reininger 2008 Syrah (Colum­ is compact and dense, and it reveals blueberry and and contoured, with well-polished structural facets. bia Valley). This Syrah is rounding into its boysenberry flavors that are set in a frame of coffee-­ Raspberry, citrus and lavender scents abound, and the 91 prime drinking window. Purple and black fruits abound, flavoredtannins. The acids are suggestive of lemon ver- freshness on the palate marks this as a wine so delicious with teasing streaks of anise, clove and espresso. Lush bena, and the 15.5% alcohol shows a little heat in the that it will be difficult to cellar. Drink it now or in five and precise, this has excellent length, and although it’s the throat. —P.G. years—either way you’ll be happy. Editors’ Choice. drinking beautifully right now, it can age further. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $35 —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $47 Owen Roe 2010 Red Willow Vineyard Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Boreal Red Chapel Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). Syncline 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 89 The Wine (Columbia Valley). Part of a Limited amount of alcohol in this Syrah has increased in 2010, Syrah (Red Mountain). Yummy is the word 90 93 Release series, this Syrah is made from fruit that was which will appeal to some palates. The downside is the that best describes this wine, but there’s much more sourced from the Wahluke Slope, and it’s co-fermented loss of texture and subtlety. Smooth and powerfully than just ripe berry flavors. Juicy, fresh and focused, this with 5% Viognier. Solid and substantial, it offers clear fruity, this hits with some chewy tannins, but it stops a is akin to drinking liquid raspberries that are drizzled flavors of coffee, licorice, herb and earth, plus a deep, over clean rocks. It is a deep, intense wine that should

WineMag.com | 63 bit short. More bottle age could certainly be a boon to herbal component to this estate-grown Cabernet Sau- and riveting, and the tannins finish with a peppery bite. this wine. —P.G. vigon, plus suggestions of fresh-cut tobacco and black Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $55 tea. Aromatic and inviting, the wine also offers a sub- abv: 14.4% Price: $55 tle moist-earth note under the ripe, rich flavor of black Eight Bells 2010 Red Willow Vineyard fruit. Delicious and beautifully structured, this is for ag- Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Cabernet Sau­ 88 Syrah (Yakima Valley). Made from grapes ing over the next 5–10 years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 92 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). Made from planted in 2006, this Syrah reflects its young-vine fruit abv: 14.8% Price: $55 three-quarters Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux- in the form of light, primary, somewhat grapy flavors. It style blend is beautifully built, and it reveals fascinating shows traces of herb and tobacco, which are balanced Abeja 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon threads of flavor. Notes of plum, fig, rum-soaked pound by tannins. All in all, this a promising start for this new 95 (Columbia Valley). A powerful wine, this is cake and a pat of butter are delicate and perfectly bal- vineyard block. —P.G. only the fourth reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ever made anced. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 by Abeja. Thick, black and redolent of new French oak, abv: 14.5% Price: $36 this is as close to a Napa Valley cult Cabernet as you Owen Roe 2010 Ex Umbris Syrah (Co­ will find this far north. The alcohol, which nears 16%, Foundry Vineyards 2009 Artisan Caber­ 88 lumbia Valley). A sweet scent of violet greets is beautifully handled and proportionate, but the wine’s 91 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Made in you first, along with a primary purple-fruit note. It’s style is over the top and not suited to every palate. Best a tart, juicy style, this well-structured Cabernet Sauvi- made in a forward, fruity style, and it offers finishing to drink this over the next 3–5 years. —P.G. gnon should be decanted. The acid-driven berry flavors notes of anise and coffee liqueur. —P.G. abv: 15.8% Price: $85 carry a hint of gun metal. A few more years of bottle age abv: 14.2% Price: $28 would be advisable. —P.G. Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Sagemoor abv: 14.3% Price: $42 Arbor Crest 2010 Three Vineyards Syr­ 94 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia 87 ah (Columbia Valley). This wide open Syr- Valley). Supple and structured, with ripe tannins, this Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Ethos Re­ ah shows berry and heavy vanilla notes. As the flavors wine offers a seamless mix of red and black fruit flavors, 90 serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia wind through the palate, the back end seems to tighten along with fragrant tobacco, fig jam and dark chocolate Valley). For full review see page 7. up, and it finishes with a somewhat green, lightly herbal notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $38 flourish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.8% Price: $22 Helix by Reininger 2010 Phinny Hill Vine­ Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Vineyard Se­ 90 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val­ Tapteil Vineyard 2010 Spilya Vineyard 94 lect Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla ley). Made from fruit that was sourced from this excel- 87 Syrah (Yakima Valley). Fruity, leafy and as- Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. lent vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, this Cabernet tringent, this Syrah shows notes of plums and purple abv: 14.3% Price: $48 is dense and muscular, and it bears deep berry and cas- fruits, with a trace of gun metal running through the sis flavors at its core. The polished tannins are wreathed core. The finish is astringent, with the character of fresh Col Solare 2009 Component Collection in a whiff of smoke and streaked with accents of anise clay. —P.G. 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). and herb. This is a wine to cellar for another 5–10 years. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 This is the first Col Solare release to bear the Red Cellar Selection. —P.G. Mountain appellation. It’s a limited-production wine abv: 14.2% Price: $28 made from Klipsun, Kiona and estate-grown grapes. It Mourvèdre feels tight, and it shows great depth of fruit, along with Native Sun 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Syncline 2010 Mourvèdre (Red Moun­ pencil lead, oreo cookie and smoke notes. Cellar Se- 90 Made from Kiona Vineyards fruit, this Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon has the tain). This is pure Mourvèdre from Heart of lection. —P.G. 90 dark fruit and the dense tannins one might expect. But the Hill and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. The Red Moun- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 that meaty power is leavened by natural acidity. A high- tain terroir is on display in the form of a spicy cherry-pie Januik 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard light of orange peel accents the deep flavors of cassis flavor that is set off by minerality and dense, earthy tan- Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). and smoke. It turns a little chalky at the tail end. —P.G. nins. A kiss of chocolate seals the deal. —P.G. 93 abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 14.3% Price: $45 Mike Januik’s Cabernet Sauvignons are intellectual wines. They don’t rush out to greet you with jammy, Owen Roe 2010 DuBrul Vineyard Caber­ Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Mourvèdre gooey flavors; instead, they are hard and compact like net Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). Made from (Wahluke Slope). Part of a Limited Release coiled steel. They offer potential rather than immediate 90 89 DuBrul Vineyard fruit, this has lush strawberry and series, this wine includes 17% Syrah, but the varietal pleasure. This selection is powerful and muscular, and raspberry flavors that dig deep into the core, support- character of the Mourvèdre shines through. Light it offers notes of metal, gravel and cassis. Cellar Selec- ed by a base of minerality. The tightly-focused finish touches of chocolate, clean earth and mineral under- tion. —P.G. includes echoes of toasty barrel-derived flavors. —P.G. score flavors of plum and cherry. There is also a streak abv: 14.4% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $72 of vanilla, perhaps from aging in French and American Columbia Crest 2009 Reserve Cabernet oak. —P.G. Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Ambassador Vineyard 2010 Estate abv: 14.5% Price: $25 92 An outstand- ing Reserve, this opens with potent aromas of spice and 89 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Moun­ tain). Tapteil Vineyard 2010 Red Heaven Vine­ cacao, which lead onto a muscular, sleek and stylish pal- Upon opening, this intense, fragrant wine seems European in style, with Italian-like nuances of leather, yard Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). This ate that shows terrific depth of black fruits. The wine 89 fungus and tobacco. The enticing whiffs give way to a Mourvèdre has a pretty cherry flavor, with a suggestion has exceptional structure, and it remains nuanced, with full-flavored palate that offers notes of mixed red fruits, of ripeness that borders on raisining. It also carries in- details of earth and stem. Cellar Selection. —P.G. while the finish loses some focus. —P.G. teresting details of dried leaf and milk chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Januik 2009 Champoux Vineyard Caber­ 92 net Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Stiff Arbor Crest 2010 Five Vineyards Cab­ cabernet sauvignon and tannic, this wine’s bold black-cherry flavor, which is 89 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The characteristic of the Champoux Vineyard, is veined with Cabernet used to make this wine was sourced from Abeja 2009 Heather Hill Cabernet Sauvi­ iron and gravel notes, plus a clover hint. It’s complex Bacchus, Dionysus, Klipsun, Stillwater Creek and Wah- 95 gnon (Walla Walla Valley). There is a leafy, luke Slope vineyards. It has Bordeaux-like tannins and

64 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 flavors of herb and stem. The red currant fruit is solid cocoa that sit above the light and pretty cherry flavor. plenty of spicy oak tones. The tannins are polished and and compact, which suggests that further bottle age will The finish is laden with a mocha note, which provides a bring some finishing flavors of black tea. This should age reward the patient consumer. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. pleasing conclusion. —P.G. for a decade at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.8% Price: $50

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Cold Creek Mercer Canyons 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ Arbor Crest 2010 Conner Lee Vineyard 89 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum­ 88 gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). A bit of leather 90 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This bia Valley). This workhorse vineyard supplies grapes and barnyard marks this Cabernet Sauvignon’s nose, but single-vineyard 100% Cabernet Franc is firm, juicy and to a wide variety of wines across the entire Ste. Michelle it does not mask the plum and black cherry notes. The focused. It has a phenolic bite at the back end, along portfolio, but the vineyard-designated wines are much finish is layered with dark chocolate and espresso fla- with lemony acids. The concentration of fruit and herb more limited, and they’re often the best of show. As the vors. —P.G. flavors is excellent, which makes it a fine steak wine and alcohol reaches 15.5%, this selection is sappy, dense and abv: 13.9% Price: $17 also a bottle to stow away for a few more years. Editors’ a bit warm. There’s plenty of fruit flavor and concen- Choice. —P.G. tration, but it’s difficult to pair such a blockbuster with Reininger 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.8% Price: $22 food. —P.G. 88 (Walla Walla Valley). This Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 15.5% Price: $28 gnon demonstrates proportionate fruit, acid and barrel Januik 2009 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet components. The only downside, if there is one, is a hint 88 Franc (Wahluke Slope). This is a relatively Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Druthers of underripeness, manifested as a whiff of asparagus. gentle, light Cabernet Franc. It reveals a pretty, juicy 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). —P.G. blueberry flavor as well as a muted herb note. A whiff Part of a Limited Release series, this may be both the abv: 14.5% Price: $40 of violet and a dash of vanilla run through the finish. most expensive and most alcoholic Cabernet ever made —P.G. by Chateau Ste. Michelle. Superripe and saturated, it’s Seven Bridges 2009 Elerding Vineyard abv: 14.4% Price: $35 propped up by balancing acidity, but the alcohol sup- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). presses nuance and terroir. It’s a wine to sip slowly, like Made from Elerding Vineyard fruit, this wine is aged in a young Port. —P.G. 100% new oak for 24 months. It’s dark and concentrat- malbec abv: 16% Price: $80 ed, and it deals attention-grabbing barrel-derived fla- àMaurice 2009 Amparo Malbec (Walla vors of dark chocolate, licorice and espresso. The black Walla Valley). Malbec has been a shining star Januik 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co­ cherry flavor has the grip and power to handle the bar- 94 at this winery, but this bottling is the best yet. Estate lumbia Valley). At first this wine seems quite rel influence, but the wine will profit from additional 89 grown, big and fruity, this wine is generously soaked in astringent, closed and tight. It shows dark streaks of cas- bottle age. —P.G. barrel flavors of spice and toast, cocoa and Bourbon. sis and dried leaf, and it only reluctantly opens up to abv: 14.7% Price: $40 Lush and juicy, the fruit more than holds its own, and expand the black fruit flavor with a wash of Bourbon it’s nearly irresistible. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Tapteil Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Sauvi­ barrel. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $47 abv: 14.4% Price: $30 87 gnon (Red Mountain). Made from estate fruit, this wine offers tart blueberry and plum flavors Reininger 2008 Malbec (Walla Walla Val­ Owen Roe 2010 Red Willow Vineyard along with drying tannins. The nose displays some vol- ley). Made from Pepper Bridge Vineyard fruit, 1973 Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Yaki­ atile aromas, which carry onto the palate. Depending 92 89 this rich, deep Malbec is similar to pricey Argentine ma Valley). This well-structured effort is 100% Cab- upon your particular sensitivity, this may or may not en- versions. It matches concentrated black fruits to gen- ernet Sauvignon, and it bears nuances of herb and briar. hance the experience. —P.G. erous new barrel-derived flavors of vanilla, cinnamon There is a balanced mix of plum and black cherry flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $39 and Kahlua. The acidity keeps the palate propped up that are wreathed in smoke and coffee notes, which re- through the long finish. —P.G. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Cabernet solve into firm but smooth tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $52 abv: 14.1% Price: $72 86 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This Cab- ernet is blended with Syrah and Grenache, along with Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Sagemoor Purple Star 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon other grapes, which moves the wine into a fruit-forward Vineyard Malbec (Columbia Valley). This (Columbia Valley). This is made from fruit direction. The trade-off is that the varietal specific- 91 89 wine boasts a riot of tart huckleberry, marionberry and sourced from the Milbrandt, Olsen and Kiona vine- ity and focus are muted, making this a pleasant albeit purple fruit flavors that taste as if they have been lightly yards, which are located in three different AVAs. The slightly generic selection. —P.G. soaked in Bourbon. The dusty tannins set up a long ride wine is packed with black fruit, with light accents of abv: 13.5% Price: $16 onto the palate-pleasing finish. —P.G. smoke, toast, espresso and dark chocolate that add in- abv: 14.3% Price: $30 terest to the finish. Merlot and Petit Verdot are also in Upland Estates 2009 Old Vine Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon (Snipes Mountain). the mix. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 86 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Malbec By “Old Vine Cabernet” the winery refers to vines that abv: 14.2% Price: $16 (Horse Heaven Hills). Part of a Limited Re- were planted in 1973. But somehow the fruit doesn’t 90 lease series, this supple, oaky Malbec includes Cabernet Columbia Crest 2010 Grand Estates Cab­ express old-vine character. Instead, it’s a mix of sweet- Sauvignon and Merlot. Made from Canoe Ridge Estate ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The tasting strawberry and bitter stem flavors that lack fo- 88 Vineyard fruit, this offers compelling blue- and black- Grand Estates Cabernet is a real strength in the lineup, cus, with a peppery highlight. —P.G. fruit flavors that are wrapped in coffee and cream notes. which falls between the Two Vines and H3 bottlings in abv: 13.7% Price: $32 It’s a structured wine that can be cellared up to a de- terms of affordability. This is loaded with vanilla as well cade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. as a big whiff of clove. The cassis flavor is substantial, abv: 15% Price: $25 and the wine retains an authoritative firmness because cabernet franc of its well-hewn tannins. Best Buy. —P.G. Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Katherine Upland Estates 2009 Malbec (Snipes abv: 13.5% Price: $12 91 Corkrum Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla 87 Mountain). Made from estate-vineyard fruit, Valley). Production has increased dramatically, but this Malbec is swathed in a rich barrel-derived flavor Columbia Crest 2010 H3 Cabernet Sau­ quality remains quite good for this estate-grown Caber- of baking spice, which gives it a confectionary charac- vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). This wide- 88 net Franc. Deep and plummy, it’s a rich, round mouth- ter. —P.G. open, flavorful wine is lifted by accents of tobacco and ful of blue and black fruits that are dressed up with abv: 13.6% Price: $30

WineMag.com | 65 Seven Bridges 2008 Reserve Malbec coffee grounds, licorice and smoke all come into play. amel linger through the long, smooth finish. Cellar Se- 86 (Columbia Valley). Here is a straightfor- Editors’ Choice. —P.G. lection. —P.G. ward Malbec that offers the expected mix of berry and abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 14.4% Price: $65 herb flavors, plus a suggestion of minerality and a whiff of sweatiness. It’s a good companion for a burger or a Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Canoe Ridge Rasa Vineyards 2009 In Order to Form steak. —P.G. 90 Estate Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). For 94 a More Perfect Union (Columbia Valley). abv: 13.4% Price: $34 full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. The fruit used to make this Bordeaux-style blend of abv: 14.5% Price: $25 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc was sourced from the DuBrul, Kiona, Dionysus merlot Helix by Reininger 2009 Merlot (Colum­ and Weinbau vineyards. Dense and deeply flavorful, bia Valley). This 100% Merlot is full bodied this wine has intense notes of black fruits, brown spices, Abeja 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). 89 and juicy, and it offers a sappy red-berry flavor. There’s licorice and coffee. Cellar Selection. —P.G. This is toasty, dense and inviting from the first 94 a nice dash of spice, and it demonstrates good balance abv: 15.2% Price: $95 sniff to the last swallow. It’s an authoritative, tightly wo- overall. It needs an hour or so of airing before it really ven and complex wine that offers a core of plum and opens up. —P.G. àMaurice 2009 Night Owl Red Blend cassis flavors, annotated by streaks of coffee, licorice abv: 14.5% Price: $28 (Walla Walla Valley). This a Bordeaux-style and iron. The tannins are textural and gripping. Deli- 93 blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Petit Verdot cious now, this can also be cellared for a decade. Cellar Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Cold Creek and 9% Cabernet Franc that’s made from estate-grown Selection. —P.G. Vineyard Merlot (Columbia Valley). This fruit. Perhaps it’s the altitude of the vineyard (1,400 abv: 14.6% Price: $38 88 vineyard-designated wine includes 13% Cabernet Sau- feet) that helps to keep the alcohol from overwhelm- vignon and 9% Syrah. The Syrah component seems to ing the palate. Nothing seems overwrought in this wine, Januik 2009 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot take over, in the form of tart berry, herb and dried leaf and the berry flavors show peach and cherry hints, with (Red Mountain). This vineyard-designated 94 flavors. The alcohol, which is 15.5%, mutes any other length to match the concentration. Cellar Selection. Merlot includes 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, also sourced complexities. It’s a nice wine, but it doesn’t offer stan- —P.G. from Klipsun. Classy from the get-go, this is limned dard Washington Merlot flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $47 with notes of graphite, mineral and cinnamon, with abv: 15.5% Price: $28 dense black-cherry and cassis flavors that anchor the Arbor Crest 2009 Dionysus Meritage core. Its excellent texture, depth, length and structure Januik 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley). (Columbia Valley). A Meritage blend of suggest that this can be cellared for a decade, at least. 93 Spicy red-fruit flavors run the gamut from cran- 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Cellar Selection. —P.G. 88 berry to cherry, which creates a substantial, flavorful Franc, 4% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot, this is deep, abv: 14.4% Price: $30 core. The wine dries out and turns chalky on the fin- rich and chewy, without having excessive alcohol. The ish, but it comes with highlights of nutmeg and cocoa concentrated flavor of cassis is married to layers of clean 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley). powder. —P.G. earth, graphite and coffee grounds. The tannins are The vines from which the fruit for this wine 92 abv: 14.4% Price: $25 slightly grainy, fully ripe and wreathed in a smoke note, were sourced are, on average, 15 years old. Aged pri- and the length is superb. Cellar Selection. —P.G. marily in French oak, this concentrated wine shows fine Tapteil Vineyard 2010 Merlot (Red Moun­ abv: 13.8% Price: $48 depth, with an emphasis on black cherry and cassis fla- tain). Made from estate-vineyard fruit, this vors. Full and ripe, this well-structured effort has the 88 Merlot is medium bodied, and it has a mix of red fruit Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Bello Rosso balance and polished tannins to be cellared for a de- flavors, plus grace notes of leaf and mushroom. The fin- Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Co­ cade, at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 93 ish leaves an impression of dried toast. —P.G. lumbia Valley). As usual, the 2009 Bello Rosso is a abv: 14.8% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Almost magisterial, this wine is forceful and balanced, Reininger 2008 Merlot (Walla Walla Val­ Columbia Crest 2010 H3 Merlot (Horse and it is packed with black fruits that are matched to the ley). Although this is currently aggressively 92 Heaven Hills). As in the past, this is loaded perfectly ripe tannins. Cellar Selection. —P.G. oaky, this full, fleshy Merlot is on the path to excellence. 87 with vanilla. Streaks of cut tobacco and light, pretty abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Bright berry and plum flavors are kissed with notes of cherry capture the midpalate, and some chewy tannins vanilla, cinnamon and toast, plus a hint of herb. Edi- kick in on the finish. —P.G. Cadence 2009 Ciel du Cheval Red Wine tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 (Red Mountain). Here you’ll find a supple abv: 14.3% Price: $38 92 melding of red fruit flavors that are accented by a mo- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Merlot (Co­ cha note. The Red Mountain minerality is found in the Northstar 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Val­ lumbia Valley). Light plum and cherry flavors muscular frame, which resolves into astringent, deli- ley). Production of this Merlot was further 86 91 give a good first impression. The blend is not strictly cately chalky tannins. —P.G. dampened in 2009 by an early freeze. But the quality traditional, with small doses of Syrah and Grenache in abv: 14.4% Price: $45 is as good as ever, which is apparent in the pretty core the mix. It fades quickly, and it shows some sourness on of strawberry, raspberry and red plum flavors. Aging in the finish. —P.G. Kaella 2010 Meritage (Columbia Val­ 55% new French oak gives the fruit a Bourbon-soaked abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet appeal as it rolls onto the rich finish streaked with dark 92 Franc and Merlot, this wine’s fruit is sourced entirely chocolate. —P.G. from the Conner Lee Vineyard. The superjuicy black- abv: 14.6% Price: $50 red blends cherry flavor is balanced by generous acidity. Vibrant and full, long and fresh, this could age gracefully for a Arbor Crest 2010 Four Vineyards Mer­ Januik 2009 Reserve Red (Red Moun­ decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. lot (Columbia Valley). This pure Merlot is 96 tain). This a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 90 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 made from fruit that was sourced from Bacchus, Con- 18% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, and all of the fruit ner Lee, Dionysus and Klipsun vineyards. Sappy, spicy came from old vines from two of Washington’s most re- Syncline 2010 Cuvée Elena (Columbia and loaded with black fruits, this delivers plenty of fla- vered vineyards, Champoux and Weinbau. Supple and Valley). This blend showcases Grenache and vor across the rich midpalate. Notes of black cherries, ripe, it’s packed with a brilliant flavorful mix of berries, 92 cherries and cassis. The tannins are polished, and the Mourvèdre, with small amounts of Syrah, Counoise and barrel-derived notes of toast, cinnamon, coffee and car- Carignan. Raspberry, cherry and chocolate flavors com-

66 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 bine with and are enlivened by a dash of white pepper. Helix by Reininger 2008 Stone Tree Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Washington Excellent focus and length suggest that this can be cel- 90 SoRhô (Columbia Valley). This Southern 89 State Cuvée Red Wine (Washington). This lared for at least five years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Rhône-style blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cin- blend is comprised of seven varieties that were sourced abv: 14.8% Price: $40 sault opens with a lovely nose of violet and blue fruit from nine vineyards. Despite a hint of green in the tan- scents. The fruit flavors are joined by a layer of wet nins and a bit of stem in the fruits, this shows good com- Cadence 2009 Cara Mia Vineyard Camer­ stone, which adds some heft to the wine’s foundation. plexity. Streaks of earth, mineral and licorice mingle 91 ata Red (Red Mountain). Made from estate- Sleek and tangy, this can be consumed young, or it can around notes of dried cherry and fig. —P.G. vineyard fruit, this is a blend of three-quarters Cabernet be aged for several more years. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $28 Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Ver- abv: 14.4% Price: $32 dot. Each new vintage seems to bring a bit more depth Ambassador Vineyard 2010 Estate to the wine, and the flavors of berry and plum remain Ramseyer 2009 Vintage Five (Yakima 88 Grown Diplomat Red (Red Mountain). fresh, with a gentle kiss of new oak. —P.G. 90 Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend is mostly This is a tried-and-true Washington blend of 75% Cab- abv: 14.4% Price: $55 Cabernet Sauvignon, with small percentages of Cab- ernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah. It is still pulling itself ernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. It’s high-toned, and together, and it marries moderately ripe fruit to herb Cadence 2009 Tapteil Red Wine (Red it comes with a pungency that brightens the highly ex- and green tea elements. The tannins are astringent, and 91 Mountain). This is a lovely example of the tracted, sweet-tasting berry fruit. It has lots of appeal, there is a hint of leather on the finish. —P.G. vineyard’s strengths: It has ripe, mouth-filling flavors of but you must like wines that have a volatile edge. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $45 cherry and cassis, which are set in an iron-like frame- abv: 14.8% Price: $42 work and accented by chalk and clay notes. It’s bal- Col Solare 2009 Red (Colum­ anced, and it will benefit from cellaring for up to a de- Syncline 2011 Subduction Red (Colum­ 88 bia Valley). This wine incorporates fruit from cade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 90 bia Valley). Always extremely popular, this Klipsun, Cold Creek and the estate vineyard (among abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Southern Rhône-style six-grape blend is especially note- others). It’s the first time grapes from Col Solare’s vine- worthy in 2011. It’s a powerful wine that has a broad ar- yard have been included in the blend. It bears ripe Columbia Crest 2009 Walter Clore Pri­ ray of red and purple fruits, plus penetrating focus. This black-cherry and cassis flavors, and it has the acid-tan- 91 vate Reserve (Columbia Valley). A blend is juicy, forward and immediately delicious, and it also nin balance that will allow it to evolve. At the moment, of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 15% Caber- has the structure to age, perhaps surprisingly well. Edi- the finish seems unresolved, and it turns chalky. —P.G. net Franc and 4% Malbec, this is supple and substantial, tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 and it breathes lush notes of plum, cassis, black olive, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 raw wood and mineral, plus a dash of caramel. Cellar Foundry Vineyards 2009 Red Wine (Wal­ Selection. —P.G. Cadence 2010 Coda (Red Mountain). This 88 la Walla Valley). Made in honor of the city abv: 14.5% Price: $30 89 Coda displays fresh and bright raspberry fruit. of Walla Walla’s 150th anniversary, this so-called sesqui- The acids come with a crisp snap, and there’s an overall centennial blend includes 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, Pamplin 2010 JRG Red Wine (Columbia juiciness that makes it especially quaffable. —P.G. 24% Carmenère and 5% Sangiovese. It’s innovative, but 91 Valley). Striking aromas of cassis, tobacco and abv: 14.4% Price: $25 unless you really like the vegetal aspects of Carmenère, fresh-ground coffee introduce this excellent new edi- you may find that the dried leaf, bark and forest floor tion of JRG. The grapes were sourced from the excel- Cadence 2009 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vine­ flavors are overwhelming. Along with all of those notes lent Alder Ridge, Klipsun, Canoe Ridge, Champoux 89 yard (Red Mountain). This could be labeled comes a core of strawberry preserves. —P.G. and Seven Hills vineyards. It has a full midpalate, which as Cabernet Franc, since it comprises 80% of the blend. abv: 13% Price: $50 is buoyed by juicy acidity. It could age for another five The youthful lightness of the estate-grown grapes seems years or more, but drink it young to enjoy it best. —P.G. to lift the naturally tannic nature of the variety. It’s clean Helix by Reininger 2008 Pomatia (Co­ abv: 14.7% Price: $33 and balanced, and it comes with an herbal underpin- 88 lumbia Valley). A blend of 27% Cabernet ning. This is best for near-term drinking. —P.G. Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 27% Syrah and 16% Cabernet Rasa Vineyards 2009 QED (Columbia abv: 14.4% Price: $55 Franc, this is an accessible wine, with cherry, caramel, 91 Valley). Full and complex, this Syrah-domi- chocolate and toast flavors that comprise the heart of nated Rhône-style blend includes Grenache and Mour­ Tre Nova 2009 Nebbaro Red Wine (Co­ the palate. The best guess is to enjoy it now, as it is prob- vèdre, and it’s cofermented with a splash of Viognier. 89 lumbia Valley). The name refers to the blend ably at or near its drinking peak. —P.G. The luscious cranberry and raspberry flavors are an- of 62% Barbera and 38% sourced from a pair abv: 14.3% Price: $20 notated with citrus, red licorice and wet stone accents. of Horse Heaven Hills vineyards. A little high-toned on Suggestions of tropical fruits, such as papaya and pine- the nose, the wine eventually smoothes out in the glass, Tapteil Vineyard 2010 E&E Shaw Vine­ apple, add more interest. —P.G. and it offers pretty flavors of raspberry and Bing cherry. 88 yard Blend (Red Mountain). Comprised abv: 14.7% Price: $50 Succulent and nicely balanced, this is one of the bet- of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, ter Washington examples of these two grapes. Editors’ this single-vineyard Bordeaux-style blend displays ripe, Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Artist Series Choice. —P.G. round, flavorful fruit, along with a leafy component. The 90 Red Wine Meritage (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $20 barrel aging has added butterscotch and chocolate notes For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. to the mix. The wine stops just a bit short, but further abv: 15% Price: $55 Tre Nova 2009 Ripasso Red Wine (Co­ bottle age may help to lengthen the finish. —P.G. 89 lumbia Valley). Barbera, Sangiovese and Neb- abv: 14.5% Price: $37 Foundry Vineyards 2009 Artisan Blend biolo comprise the wine. Half of the grapes were air 90 (Columbia Valley). Cranberry and cassis fla- dried for three months, which is known as appassimen- Tre Nova 2008 Seccopassa (Columbia vors meet in this tightly wound, bright and bold Bor- to. The Sangiovese was crushed and fermented conven- 88 Valley). This was fermented using dried San- deaux-style blend. It’s comprised of 70% Cabernet Sau- tionally before being added to the blend. The result is a giovese and Barbera grapes, which were sourced from vignon, 20% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot, but the Petit dry, slightly nutty red wine, with tart flavors that are sug- the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. Smooth Verdot does not dominate as is often the case. There’s gestive of fruit leather. It shows good grip and length, and spicy, it has sweet tomato, red apple and Italian a tongue-tapping tang to the juicy young fruit, and the and it comes with just a bit of alcoholic heat. —P.G. herb flavors, supported by firm acids. —P.G. finish is clean and precise, with hints of tar and graph- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 15.3% Price: $45 ite. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $36

WineMag.com | 67 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Cold Creek Seven Bridges 2009 Prima Nata (Colum­ Ott & Murphy 2009 Petite Sirah (Colum­ 87 Vineyard Red Wine (Columbia Valley). 86 bia Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend in- 88 bia Valley). This is made from fruit that’s Part of a Limited Release series, this high-alcohol blend cludes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Un- sourced mostly from Mercer’s Spice Cabinet Vineyard is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and the rest a usual scents of berry and egg lead to a palate whose fla- in the Horse Heaven Hills, with some Tablas clone Syr- mix of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The Syrah compo- vors have not yet come together. The fruit is there, but ah from the Rattlesnake Hills. It’s a tasty wine but it nent takes over, with deep berry fruit that is encased in the tannins hit a wall and seem to stop any further de- seems incomplete. It has a ripe purple-fruit flavor, and rather hard and somewhat herbal tannins. It’s tight and velopment. Further bottle age may help it open. —P.G. it comes with plenty of power, but there’s a hole in the chewy at the moment. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $36 middle. The finish kicks in with a splash of molasses. abv: 15.5% Price: $32 —P.G. Ott & Murphy NV Mutiny Bay Red Wine abv: 14.9% Price: $41 Columbia Crest 2010 H3 Les Chevaux 85 (Columbia Valley). At one time this winery 87 Red Wine (Horse Heaven Hills). This is offered a Bordeaux blend called ; this may be Reininger 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard predominantly Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon and its replacement. More than half of the blend is Caber- 88 Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). Chuck Syrah filling out the blend. As with many of the H3 net Sauvignon. It’s a difficult wine to evaluate as it cur- Reininger sources the fruit for this wine from what is ar- wines, vanilla is the strongest and most noticeable fla- rently seems shut down. It offers some spicy red fruit guably the best site in the Walla Walla Valley. The wine vor. The fruit is compact, and it tastes like hard cherry and a whiff of sweat on the nose. —P.G. does not shy away from the herbal aspect for which candy. There is plenty of power, but not much subtlety. abv: 14.2% Price: $24 Carmenère is known, but the stemminess is mitigated —P.G. thanks to the influence of new French oak. A cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $15 candy note consolidates the flavors on the medium-long other red wines finish. —P.G. Columbia Crest 2010 Two Vines Merlot- Maison Bleue 2010 Boushey Vineyard Le abv: 13.7% Price: $47 Cabernet (Columbia Valley). The Caber- 87 Midi Grenache (Yakima Valley). As excel- net Franc matches well with the Merlot in this blend. 95 lent as this was was in 2009, the 2010 has reached an al- Dark fruits and polished tannins elevate this well-de- new york most-ethereal level. The aromatics alone are transport- fined wine. It has no frills but plenty of flavor. Best Buy. ive, with the concentrated essence of raspberries and —P.G. blueberries at optimal ripeness. The flavors are deep chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $8 and long, elegant and powerful, and they lead into a fin- Keuka Spring 2010 Chardonnay (Finger ish that’s anchored in notes of mineral and dark choco- Upland Estates 2009 Julian (Snipes 88 Lakes). Hints of red berry, blossom and grape- late. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Mountain). This Rhône-style blend of 60% fruit are beguiling in this bright, fresh Chardonnay. Dry 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Syrah, 20% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre is soft and and surprisingly full bodied, the palate is juicy, with fresh pear and quince flavors that are brightened by a smooth. The fruity, forward palate shows little influence Kaella 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard for having aged for 21 months in barrel, and so the fla- splash of lime-tinged acidity. —A.I. Sangiovese (Red Mountain). There’s much vors tend to be simple. Notes of red berries, red licorice 91 abv: 13% Price: $14 to admire in this full-bodied, authoritative Sangiovese. and a dash of cayenne are all found. —P.G. It has the varietal’s leafy tartness, with tangy red and abv: 13.9% Price: $28 Wagner 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Fin­ purple fruits that are bound by zippy acids and tongue- 88 ger Lakes). Hints of nut and smoke add savory tingling phenolics. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Upland Estates 2009 The Mayor (Snipes tones to the concentrated flavors of apple and quince abv: 14.3% Price: $25 87 Mountain). The Mayor is the winery’s most un- in this balanced and luscious Chardonnay. Dry and full bodied, it has sharp, steely acidity, and a finish that bears usual blend, a mix of Bordeaux and Rhône grapes that’s Native Sun 2009 Petit Verdot (Red Moun­ aged for 21 months in French, eastern European and a flurry of sweet biscuit notes. —A.I. tain). For lovers of pure Petit Verdot, this jewel American oak barrels. It’s a mélange of flavors, but the 91 abv: 13.8% Price: $14 brings luscious boysenberry, blackberry, espresso, anise barrel notes take over in the form of pretty baking spic- and milk chocolate flavors together on a smooth and es that don’t quite mask the green and raisiny fruit. Best McGregor 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay generous palate. The wine demonstrates careful atten- to drink soon. —P.G. 87 (Finger Lakes). Lemon zest and wildflower tion to ripeness and balance, and it can probably age for abv: 13.8% Price: $25 notes lend a delicate feel to this fresh, steely, unoaked 15 years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Chardonnay. It’s a minerally wine, with notes of saline abv: 14.4% Price: $50 Mercer Canyons 2009 Red (Columbia and crushed oyster shells, and a brisk finish. —A.I. Valley). abv: 12% Price: $17 86 The blend is largely Merlot, with Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Sharilee Pe­ splashes of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Ver- tit Verdot (Walla Walla Valley). This is the dot. There is a strong scent of vanilla that only partial- 91 Millbrook 2010 Proprietor’s Special Re­ winery’s first Petit Verdot, and it’s a beauty. Firm and ly masks the flavors of leaf and stem. Tannic and a bit 87 serve 25th Anniversary Chardonnay muscular, it has plenty of blackberry and black cherry earthy, this would be a good wine to pair with a red pasta (Hudson River Region). Fragrant honeysuckle, lem- flavors hanging on its tannic bones. The finish shows a sauce. —P.G. on and fresh apple aromas waft from this Chardonnay. smack of dark chocolate, and the overall structure sug- abv: 14.6% Price: $17 It’s creamy and rich on the palate, and it offers notes gests that this will age for 15 years or more. Cellar Se- of orange blossom, apple and sweet corn, balanced by lection. —P.G. Ott & Murphy 2010 Double Bluff Red brisk, lemony acidity. —A.I. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 86 Wine (Horse Heaven Hills). Syrah compris- abv: 13% Price: $22 es more than half of this spicy, Rhône-style blend, which Tre Nova 2008 Bonatello Riserva Sangio­ also includes Grenache and Cinsault. A scent of wild Peconic Bay Winery 2010 Lowerre Fam­ vese (Columbia Valley). This is pure, super- berry introduces this wine, which feels sharp and carries 90 87 ily Estate La Barrique Chardonnay (North ripe Sangiovese, and it bears fruit flavors of strawberry a hint of pickle barrel, though no American oak is indi- Fork of Long Island). This curious Chardonnay preserves and cherry pie, plus a dash of dark chocolate cated. The palate broadens to display a flavor of straw- transforms rather dramatically in the glass. It’s initially and accents of mint and vanilla. It’s big and a bit blocky, berry compote and a whiff of chocolate. —P.G. savory, with notes of dried herbs and leaves, but gradu- but it’s loaded with fruit. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $19 ally it reveals touches of fresh lemon, apple and vanilla, abv: 15.5% Price: $35 accompanied by dashes of dusty minerals that linger on the finish. Full bodied and dry. —A.I. abv: 13.6% Price: $36

68 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Treleaven 2010 Reserve Barrel Ferment­ McGregor 2010 Reserve Dry Gewürztra­ and it balances brisk, lemony acids with ripe yellow- 87 ed Chardonnay (Cayuga Lake). Pretty flo- 86 miner (Finger Lakes). This is a dry, slight- peach and grapefruit flavors. —A.I. ral notes mingle enticingly with smoke and nut aromas ly understated version of McGregor’s standard label abv: 10.8% Price: $16 in this vanilla-kissed Chardonnay. It’s rich and creamy Gewürztraminer. It’s elegant and fruity, with flavors of on the palate, with concentrated apple flavors and fresh lychee and peach that are peppered with a dash Fulkerson 2010 William Vigne Dry Ries­ bright, lemony acids that add vibrancy to the finish. of exotic spice. Full bodied, but refreshingly quaffable. 87 ling (Seneca Lake). Fresh and floral on the —A.I. —A.I. nose and palate, this has loads of white flower and Mey- abv: 12.8% Price: $18 abv: 13.3% Price: $25 er lemon tones. Dry in style, it builds in intensity on the palate, with hints of honey, wax and saline-like mineral- Wagner 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fin­ ity that linger on the finish. —A.I. 87 ger Lakes). A nice counterpoint to Wag- riesling abv: 12% Price: $14 ner’s oaked Reserve Chardonnay, this version is juicy Fox Run 2010 Riesling 11 Lake Dana and bright, offering pristine apple and lemon flavors. Heron Hill 2010 Ingle Vineyard Riesling Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Al- Concentrated and lush on the palate, it’s balanced by 90 (Finger Lakes). The nose and palate are though it has a delicate structure, that feels almost lace- 87 a shower of lemon-lime-like acidity and crushed-stone smoky and waxy, with a shimmer of petrol. The palate is like on the palate, this light-bodied Riesling bursts with minerality. Best Buy. —A.I. brisk and lemony, with hints of citrus peel, nut oil and concentrated ripe peach and apricot flavors. Semisweet abv: 13.8% Price: $11 nut skin that linger on the long finish. This dry, savory in style, this has vibrant acidity and an oyster-shell- and Riesling is already showing signs of bottle age. Drink stone-like minerality that lingers on the long finish. Leonard Oakes 2010 Chardonnay (New now. —A.I. —A.I. York). Ripe stone-fruit and flower notes shine abv: 12% Price: $20 86 abv: 8% Price: $40 on the nose and palate of this dry, medium-bodied Keuka Spring 2010 Riesling (Finger Chardonnay. Fresh and juicy, it’s an easygoing sipper to Fox Run 2010 Riesling 10 Lake Dana accompany an array of foods. —A.I. Lakes). While dainty in structure, this light- Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Vibrant 87 abv: 12% Price: $15 89 footed Riesling is intense and concentrated, with ripe lemon- and lime-zest notes make this off-dry Riesling stone-fruit and tangerine flavors. Nervy lemon-lime- brisk and bright. Chalky minerality and a saline tone Lakewood 2010 Chardonnay (Finger -like acidity and shades of slate and steel add depth and add depth, and there is a pleasantly bitter lemon-peel Lakes). On the nose and palate, notes of balance. —A.I. 85 note that lingers on the finish. —A.I. smoke and roasted nuts add earthy tones to the touches abv: 11.5% Price: $14 abv: 11% Price: $30 of crisp apple and lemon. It’s dry and full bodied, with a Keuka Spring 2010 Semi Sweet Riesling round, soft fruitiness on the finish. —A.I. Fox Run 2010 Riesling 12 Lake Dana abv: 13.3% Price: $13 (Finger Lakes). Ripe yellow-peach and del- Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Crushed 87 89 icate red-berry hints lend a juicy, easygoing fruitiness chalk and wax notes add a striking minerality to this del- to this concentrated Riesling. Soft, pink-grapefruit-like icately framed, semisweet Riesling. A juicy wine, it of- Gewürztraminer acidity and a flash of green herb add freshness to the fers an abundance of ripe stone-fruit and citrus flavors, finish. —A.I. Standing Stone 2010 Gewürztraminer with an earthen, waxy slick that lingers on the finish. abv: 11.5% Price: $14 89 (Finger Lakes). While this is dry in style, it —A.I. exhibits all of the varietal’s ebullient rose and lychee abv: 8% Price: $30 Six Mile Creek 2010 Semi Dry Riesling tones. It has vibrant acidity and an intense, honeyed pal- (Finger Lakes). Exuberant and floral, this ate that’s full of rich citrus and tea leaf notes. This is full Wagner 2010 Semi Dry Riesling (Finger 87 Riesling is lush and rich on the palate, and it offers bodied, with a lingering finish. Best Buy. —A.I. Lakes). Exuberant and floral on the nose, this 89 sweet pink-grapefruit and white-peach flavors that are abv: 13.3% Price: $14 Riesling is intense and fruity on the palate, with con- offset by a shower of lemony acids. A hint of crushed- centrated apple-jelly and peach flavors. Brightened by stone-like minerality adds depth and complexity to the Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Reserve lime-inflected acidity, the long finish extends with a de- midpalate. —A.I. Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). A touch of licious waxy streak. Best Buy. —A.I. 89 abv: NA Price: $14 exotic spice gives a musky appeal to the ripe lychee and abv: 12% Price: $13 rose petal notes. Lush, languid and semisweet, the pal- Wagner 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). ate has a dense, concentrated pink-grapefruit flavor and Fulkerson 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger White pepper and smoke notes highlight the in- soft, lemony acidity that lingers on the palate. —A.I. Lakes). Zesty aromas of fresh lemon and tan- 87 88 tense minerality in this steely Riesling. Lemony on the abv: 12% Price: $25 gerine peel add vibrancy to this brisk, dry Riesling. It’s palate, this is crisp and brisk, and it comes with notes of elegant and fruity, and it offers loads of crisp green-ap- wet slate and steel on the finish. —A.I. McGregor 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger ple and pear flavors that are accented by dusty mineral- abv: 12.8% Price: $13 88 Lakes). Ripe and lush, this off-dry Gewürz- ity. A hint of lime-skin astringency surfaces on the finish. traminer shows remarkable balance between its acid- Best Buy. —A.I. Lucas Vineyards 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling ity and ripeness. It has abundant rose petal, spice and abv: 11.8% Price: $13 (Finger Lakes). While initially a bit musky musk tones, and the exotic spice note intensifies on the 86 and waxy on the nose, this Riesling gains strength on midpalate, before extending toward the jasmine-tea-fla- Lucas Vineyards 2010 Dry Riesling (Fin­ the palate as it offers rich honey and red apple flavors. vored finish. —A.I. ger Lakes). Waxy lemon peel and white blos- 88 The lemon-lime-like acidity lingers on the finish. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 som notes penetrate the nose and palate of this concen- abv: 11.6% Price: $14 trated and structured Riesling. Bold acidity adds a cut- Lucas Vineyards 2010 Dry Gewürztra­ ting edge to the midpalate before finishing on a zesty Montezuma 2010 Riesling (Finger miner (Finger Lakes). Impeccably dry, this 86 lime note. —A.I. Lakes). This off-dry Riesling has exuberant refreshing, brisk and light-bodied Gewürztraminer re- 86 abv: 11.7% Price: $14 aromas of orange blossoms and ripe red berries. It bal- veals delicate hints of pink grapefruit, lychee and musk. ances concentrated apple and honey flavors with flashes Nervy lemon-lime-like acidity lends a crisp, lean feel. Atwater 2010 Estate Vineyards Riesling of green herbs and brisk, lime-tinged acidity. So light —A.I. (Finger Lakes). Yeasty, sweet pastry notes are 87 and dainty, it’s easy to drink. —A.I. abv: 11.4% Price: $15 enticing on the nose of this intense, juicy, off-dry Ries- abv: 10.8% Price: $14 ling. It has a delicate structure and a creamy texture,

WineMag.com | 69 Casa Larga 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger 85 Lakes). Fresh mint and menthol notes lend a herbaceous tone to this dry, slightly grassy Riesling. Lemon and lime flavors are brisk and clean on the pal- ate. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $11 pinot grigio Channing Daughters 2011 Ramato Pinot 89 Grigio (Long Island). A musky perfume note is sultry and exotic in this rich, textured Pinot Grigio, which was fermented on its skins and matured in oak. The fruity palate offers penetrating dried-pear, nut oil and apple flavors, which are layered with citrusy acids and soft, tea-leaf-like tannins that linger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $24 white blends Channing Daughters 2009 Meditazione 91 (Long Island). Meditazione bursts out of the glass with a musky, vanilla-spice character that perme- ates the nose and palate. Fermented in oak with ex- tended skin contact, this is an amber-hued wine that has bold, tea-leaf-like tannins and a gorgeous acidic edge. It’s a fascinating effort to be enjoyed over the course of a long, meditative evening. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $40

Channing Daughters 2009 Envelope 90 (Long Island). Aromatically intense, with notes of dried peach, orange cream and vanilla, this blend of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Malvasia aims to push the envelope with its rich, almost-fluffy texture, and its penetrating red-berry, stone-fruit and citrus flavors. The grapes were crushed by foot, and skin contact was employed during fermentation. This is a decadent, unusual, oak-aged . —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $42

70 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 spirits Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin (USA; 35 Ma­ welcome to gin lane 90 ple Street, Sonoma, CA). For full review see page 9. abv: 45% Price: $40 ne gin, two gins, gold gin…blue gin? flowers and citrus. There are even savory ren- Yes, with apologies to Dr. Seuss, this ditions, such as those infused with briny olives Breucklen Distilling Glorious Gin (USA; Breucklen Distilling Company, Brooklyn, month’s crop of gins yielded some sur- and chili peppers. And if that’s not enough, gold- 89 O NY). Distilled from 100% New York wheat, this brisk, prises. In addition to colorful surprises—like en barrel-aged gins and sweetened gin-based perky gin is bright and sweet, and it offers notes of can- pale-blue gin—new and forthcoming bottlings ­liqueurs are entering the scene too. died lemon peel and rosemary, plus a warm touch of show that distillers are pushing the envelope. Unlike such spirits as whiskey and brandy, anise. While classic London dry gin will never go gin is rarely consumed neat these days. So with abv: 45% Price: $41 out of style, it’s now joined on the shelves by the that in mind, particular consideration was giv- Greenhook Ginsmiths American Dry Gin growing ranks of American dry gins. In addition en to how the following gins might prove use- 89 (USA; Greenhook Ginsmiths, Brooklyn, to the required juniper component, gins are now ful in cocktails. NY). This spicy, flavorful Brooklyn gin starts out light, flavored with a growing array of herbs, spices, —Kara Newman with an upfront, fleeting, fruity sweetness, but power- ful flavors of juniper, black pepper, coriander and anise quickly rush forward. Combine this with tonic or an- Downslope Distilling Ould Tom Citrus Vincent Van Gogh Gin (The Netherlands; other mixer to tame the alcohol heat. 94 Flavored Gin (USA; Downslope Distilling, 91 Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). This is abv: 47% Price: $49 Centennial, CO). For full review see page 9. clear, bright, light and supercitrusy, and using this to Half Moon Orchard Gin (USA; Tuthill­ abv: 40% Price: $35 make a gin and tonic, you could conceivably skip adding town Spirits, Gardiner, NY). extra citrus to the drink. This veers on the sweet side of 89 From the up- Greenall’s London Dry Gin (England; the spectrum, and it offers an almost marshmallow-like state New York distiller best known for creating Hud- 93 W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). flavor, punched up with a light cinnamon spark. son Baby Bourbon comes this crisp and appealing gin, Smooth, crisp and well balanced, this is a martini-wor- abv: 47% Price: $27 which is packaged in an attractive, nautical-themed bot- thy gin. Despite the nearly neutral aroma, look for big tle. The aromas are of citrus and anise, although on the juniper, lemon peel and coriander flavors on the palate. Comb Jarhead Gin (USA; Stilltheone Dis­ palate the anise thrusts forward to overshadow the cit- Best Buy. 90 tillery, Port Chester, NY). Distiller Ed Tiege, rus note. The gin is distilled from a mix of 80% wheat abv: 40% Price: $15 a former Marine, created this limited-edition gin “to and 20% apples. Although there’s nothing apple-y about honor the sacrifices the members of the U.S. Armed the flavor profile, the wheat yields a flavorful mix of pi- Flight 69 Gin (USA; Treasure Island Dis­ Forces have made.” For each bottle sold, he donates quant spices on the finish. Ideal for briny olive-spiked 92 tillery, San Francisco, CA). Distilled from $1.50 to the Wounded Warrior Project. Despite the martinis. California grapes, this intriguing, fruity and floral gin hauntingly dark, military-style label, the gin inside is abv: 46% Price: $37/1 L finishes smooth and clean, and it offers hints of black surprisingly light and delicate. Made from organic Comb 9 Gin (USA; Stilltheone Distill­ pepper and vanilla on the finish. This would make a wheat and honey, this has sweet, citrusy flavors, plus an- ery, Port Chester, NY). good addition to a Negroni. ise, black pepper and cardamom notes. Semper Fi. 88 Distilled from honey, abv: 40% Price: $32 abv: 45.2% Price: $28 this smooth New York dry gin is on the gentle side. Al- though it starts with a warm licorice note, it concedes No. 3 London Dry Gin (Holland; Anchor Edinburgh Gin (Scotland; Frederick Wild­ to sweetness on the palate, with black pepper, lavender 92 Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). 90 man & Sons, New York, NY). For full review and candied lemon peel flavors. It has balanced alcohol For full review see page 9. see page 9. and relatively neutral aromas. abv: 46% Price: $40 abv: 43% Price: $35 abv: 47% Price: $35

Bloom Premium London Dry Gin (Eng­ Nolet’s Dry Gin (The Netherlands; No­ Ingenium Gin (USA: New England Dis­ 91 land; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, 90 let’s U.S. Distribution, Aliso Viejo, CA). 88 tilling, Portland, ME). “Any guesses on the NY). Between the name and the pale-green bottle that Distinctly fruity and floral on the palate, this has notes botanicals?” distiller Ned Wight asked. This could be a features a tactile vine overlay, you’d anticipate a super- of rosewater and raspberry, braced by pepper and gin- challenging drinking game. The only clue on the label floral flavor profile. Fortunately, the chamomile and ger flecks. This smooth and well-balanced gin is a good is that it’s made with “traditional and nontraditional bo- sweet honeysuckle notes are subtle, woven with deli- choice for making a berry-forward cocktail like the clas- tanicals,” including “a few extras” that Ned picked up cate juniper, grapefruit peel and coriander accents. The sic bramble. on his travels through Southeast Asia. The base of the finish is dry and well structured. abv: 47.5% Price: $50 gin is bold and distinctly earthy, with malt and warm an- abv: 40% Price: $30 ise notes, plus juniper, mint, white pepper and lemon­ Smugglers’ Notch Gin Blend 802 (USA; grass hints. Greenhook Ginsmiths Beach Plum Li­ 90 Smugglers’ Notch Distillery, Jefferson­ abv: 47% Price: $40 91 queur (USA; Greenhook Ginsmiths, ville, VT). This is scented with a lively mix of juniper, Brooklyn, NY). Inspired by England’s sloe gin and citrus and anise aromas, and on the palate, the anise Kinsey Distilled Dry Gin (Scotland; W.J. made with beach plums from Long Island, New York, note pushes forward, and it finishes with a candied cit- 88 Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). The this gin has round, sweet and tart flavors, with an earthy rus-peel touch. It’s a small-batch gin with a velvety tex- aroma is bright, fresh, and piney, with a hint of green cinnamon touch on the finish. With its distinctive dark- ture, and it’s recommended for gimlets and other citrus- apple. By comparison, the flavor is relatively neutral, cherry-juice color and aroma, this lends itself to making forward cocktails. and it offers a bit of fruity green-apple sweetness that fizzes and other cocktails. It’s distilled from cane sugar, abv: 44% Price: $29 builds pleasantly onto the finish. but it’s not supersweet. abv: 40% Price: $13 abv: 30% Price: $32

WineMag.com | 71 Junipero Gin (USA; Anchor Distilling 87 Company, San Francisco, CA). “San Fran- cisco’s original craft gin,” as Junipero is billed, features a light, piny fragrance and a pungent, earthy flavor, with loads of anise and a good wallop of alcohol. abv: 49.3% Price: $35

Myer Farm Gin (USA; Myer Farm Dis­ 87 tillers, Ovid, NY). This small-batch, estate- grown “field-to-flask” gin bears a passing resemblance to its malty cousin, genever. It has a bold anise aroma and flavor, and a warm, almost buttery feel. abv: 42.7% Price: $32

Black Zephyr Gin (England; MHW Ltd., 86 Manhasset, NY). This smooth, versatile mixer has a neutral aroma and a gentle, lightly floral flavor that mixes citrus and ginger notes. The botanicals include elder­flower and elderberry. abv: 44% Price: $35

Blu Zephyr (England; MHW Ltd., Manhas­ 85 set, NY). The pale robin’s-egg blue hue, which is derived from iris flowers, is no doubt this gin’s most striking feature. Infused with elderberry and gardenia, this has flavors of sweet-tasting but ersatz ripe fruit, and it has a drying feel. Still, this should make for some col- orful cocktails. abv: 40% Price: $30

72 | wine enthusiast | april 2013 Beer Uinta Wyld Extra Pale Ale (American Pale 88 Ale; Uinta Brewing, UT). This extra pale ale pale ales: don’t let the name fool you is meant to be lighter bodied and lower in alcohol than its non-extra brethren, but don’t mistake that to mean erriam-Webster Dictionary defines varying intensity and vividly express the hop va- it’s lighter on flavor. The brew is aggresively dry-hopped to display more fresh hop characteristics, and those aro- “pale” as “deficient in color or intensity rieties that are used. Proportionate amounts of mas and flavors certainly take center stage. Notes of Mof color, not bright or brilliant, malt balance the hoppiness. pressed yellow florals, fresh pine needles, grapefruit feeble, faint or deficient in chroma.” Synonyms English pale ales typically show stronger malt rind and grass abound, although accents of stone fruit, include dull, faded, light and washed-out. Pair and caramel notes, softer English hop profiles biscuit dough and hay unfold on the medium-weight that with the word ale, and innocent drinkers and less aggressive carbonation than American palate. It finishes clean and somewhat short, making this a refreshing option for warm weather enjoyment. are apt to assume that the resulting product offerings. USDA-certified organic. is a light, soft, easy-drinking selection of little The intensity of the beer depends on the abv: 4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack intensity, complexity and character. In other brewer, but flavorful and complex pale ales are words, fizzy pale-yellow stuff. available, especially in the craft-beer market. Double Take Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; Brewmaster’s Choice, NY). This hearty pale For many pale ales, nothing could be further 86 They can be full of hop and malt characters while ale would be a great choice for sharp cheeses or pork- from the truth. They cover a wide spectrum of remaining crisp and balanced. With alcohol lev- chops with applesauce. A hazy golden-orange color in colors, ranging from light gold to medium cop- els that range from 4–7% and a pronounced but the glass, the hop profile is pronounced on the nose and per and all shades in between. And while they not overpowering profile, these brews are versa- in the mouth, with forward astringency that remains may not have the over-the-top character of their tile enough to pair with meats and cheeses, and through the close. Citrus oil and soft pine-resin notes dominate, but the malt backbone provides just enough IPA brethren, pale ales are by no means lacking they are perfect for entertaining. sweet, grainy flavors to keep it from feeling overly dry in flavor and distinction. Pale can be bold and beautiful, but above all, or bitter. American versions typically have prominent pale can be delicious. abv: 5.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack fruity, floral and citrusy hop characteristics of Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale (Amer­ ber color, with a cream-hued head that lingers. Earthy 92 ican Pale Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR). and floral hop aromas lead on the nose, while the palate Another classic from Deschutes, this pale ale is re- boasts flavors of sweet orange oil and dried flowers that markably balanced and approachable. It pours a gor- mingle seamlessly with sweet grains and toasted bis- geous golden-honey color, with a frothy off-white cuits. The mouthfeel is smooth and easy, with a creamy head that lingers. The hops are upfront but texture that’s balanced by medium carbonation and a not overwhelming, with orange blossom, grapefruit rind rich but dry finish. It’s well balanced and versatile for and soft pine aromas framed against a dry, malty back- pairing with food; try it with flank-steak fajitas or Thai drop. The medium-weight mouthfeel blends those hop- peanut . fueled characteristics with flavors of toasted bread and abv: 5.6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack malted barley. Medium carbonation keeps the palate fresh and lively, and a light nutty flavor remains through Shiner Wild Hare Pale Ale (American Pale the finish. Best Buy. 89 Ale; Spoetzl Brewery, TX). Typically known abv: 5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack for their lagers, this is Spoetzl’s first foray into ales. High-alpha Bravo and delicate U.S. Golding hops were New Glarus Moon Man No Coast Pale Ale used in the kettle and fermenter, resulting in a balanced 92 (American Pale Ale; New Glarus Brewing brew with both upfront and nuanced hop notes of citrus Company, WI). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. peel, pressed flowers and soft grass. It’s balanced and abv: 5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack sessionable, and the lightly toasted-malt core is laced with fruity accents of caramel, pear, melon and orange Founders Dry Hopped Pale Ale (Ameri­ slices. Medium bodied with a crisp, dry finish. 91 can Pale Ale; Founders Brewing, WI). abv: 5.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack This dry-hopped selection offers upfront hop-derived aromas of citrus, fresh-cut grass and piny florals on Hangar 24 Craft Brewery Amarillo Pale the nose, making it an ideal choice for hopheads look- 88 Ale (American Pale Ale; Hangar 24 ing for a break from traditional IPAs. Similar flavors Craft Brewery, CA). This brew uses malted barley unfold on the palate, with medium carbonation to keep from the midwest and highly aromatic Amarillo hops the resiny and astringent characteristics lifted and ap- from the northwest. The hops are added both dur- proachable. A hint of caramel-like malty sweetness ing the brewing process as well as post-fermentation, makes a quick appearance on the finish, but is followed resulting in a hoppy but not overly bitter experience. by a lasting kick of bitter grapefruit peel. It’s a smooth but concentrated ale that offers loads of abv: 5.4% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack hop-driven aromatics against a toasted-grain and biscu- ity malt frame. A hint of sweet orange oil flavor unfolds Smuttynose Shoals Pale Ale (American on the finish. Try with lemon- and herb-roasted chicken 90 Pale Ale; Smuttynose Brewing Company, or spiced pork tenderloin. NH). This robust yet clean pale ale pours a light am- abv: 5.5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

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