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CAPE COD MAGAZINE SI. ^ A History of the M =====^ __$r

By GEORGE EVERETT BURBANK

The Cape Cod Canal is a subject both old shovels, worked steadily for a month, piling and new, and has been talked about since huge mounds of soil on either side of an ex the days of the Pilgrims nearly 300 years cavation ; but, upon the contractors failing to ago; but not until the year 1914 did the canal furnish money on pay day, work was sus become a reality with the waters actually pended, and a riot among the workmen barely flowing across the Cape from Bay to Bay. averted, the State being called upon to re We know that this almost natural water move the Italians out of town. course was used by the Indians and early In 1883, the privilege of the Whitney char Pilgrims, being the first one ter was granted to Frederick A. Lockwood to propose a canal in 1625. In 1736 the isth under the name of the Cape Cod Ship Canal mus was spoken of as the place where a canal Co. They caused to be built an enormous had been talked about for 40 years. The first survey was made in Washington's time, 1776, and so reported to the Continen tal Congress. The canal was talked of in 1791, also 1798; and in 1818, the Massachu- . setts Legislature gave a company permis sion to survey. In 1824 the United Senate gave permission to survey and it was thor oughly done between Buzzards and Barn stable Bays. In the years 1825, 1826 and

1830, canal matters were again taken up. SECTION OF BREAKWATER But the most hopeful outlook for canal dredge costing $75,000, and undertook the building in our day and generation was in enterprise at $1,000,000 per mile, the canal 1860, just previous to the opening of our to be completed in one and one-half years. Civil War, when a committee appointed by This mammoth dredge was brought in the Legislature (in accordance with the Gov through the beach bank in March, 1884. By ernor's message) caused a very careful and the terms of this charter the company were minute survey to be made to determine the obliged to spend $25,000 in actual construc best location, rise and fall of tides, locks and tion before a given time; and, in order to do water sluices, with a breakwater on the Barn so, vigorous methods had to be inaugurated. stable end. They reported an estimated cost Although the big Lockwood dredge was eat of from five to ten million. The survey cost ing her way into Scussett marshes, it was $50,000. not using up money fast enough, so the com In 1870 a charter was granted to Alpheus pany decided wharfage might, and, accord Hardy and others, that was five times extend ingly, hundreds of huge oak piles were ship ed. A little digging was done at North Sand ped to Sandwich and a huge wharf built on wich and Scussett Beach. In the summer of the marsh where there was no harbor and 1880 work apparently began in earnest near no traffic. Town Neck in Sandwich. A gang of 500 Towards the end of three weeks they were Italian laborers, with wheelbarrows and shipping these half-ton piles by express, so 10 CAPE COD MAGAZINE great was their haste to spend money. They Canal bills were presented and among them, had acquired such momentum, that, before one that favored the Government furnishing they could stop, $40,000 had been spent in the material and the State "Convict Labor stead of $25,000. from the State's Prisons," but this was The charter was saved for a time, but the _ strongly opposed. company died of over exertion, leaving as a We next hear of the canal when the bill monument, a ditch (a mile long), the charred to incorporate the present company, The remains of the dredge (which the boys burnt Boston, Cape Cod and New York Canal Com Fourth of July night, 1896), and the rotting pany was petitioned for, March 23, 1899. A piles of an unfinished wharf. hearing was given May 12th. Senator Post,

EXCAVATING WITH STEAM SHOVELS

In 1896, the Maritime Canal Company ob of Berkeshire, gave a luminous lecture on tbe tained a charter, but nothing came of it. history of efforts to build Cape Cod January, 1897, the Cape Cod Canal Com from 1676 until now. Many other senators pany petitioned for a charter, but nothing favored the bill, but of no avail, for it was re ever came of it. In 1898, seven Cape Cod fused a third reading and rejected. May 16, F

CAPE COD MAGAZINE 11

Senator Post again made a plea, moving for proved and accepted by the commissioners reconsideration. The heart of the Senate until a year later, May 8, 1907. softened, and the matter was tabled. Tues Lurmg all these later years, these canal day morning, after a long debate, the Senate schemes were sort of stock watering affairs, ordered the Bill to a third reading by a vote instead of being conducted along true busi of 15 to 10. On May 26, the Bill reached the ness lines, and for that reason the Legisla House, and after a lively discussion by a ture lost confidence whenever a company dozen or more members, was passed to be made application for a charter; and the rail engrossed by a vote of 120 yeas and 29 nays. roads, too, were always in opposition and On June 1, 1899, Governor Walcott affixed against the building of a canal paralleling his signature to the Bill, which gave the Bos their lines of traffic. But when the name of ton, Cape Cod and New York Canal Company August Belmont became a factor in the en their charter. terprise (in the year 1904), the Railroad

BARGE TRAFFIC IN THE CANAL Photo by Mclntire, Sandwich

September 29, 1899, the company deposited Commissioners and Harbor and Land Com the $200,000 with the State treasurer, also missioners did all they could to aid this great filed at the office of the Harbor and Land work. But even after this company had de Commissioners, detailed "Plans of Location posited the money with the State, and with i and Construction" (including specifications' the towns of Sandwich and Bourne, and filed for bridges and approaches). Later on in the all plans and specifications in compliance with Fall, was deposited with the Treasurer of their charter, the officials of the State still Barnstable County $500 each for the towns doubted (with such restrictions upon their of Sandwich and Bourne. July 17, 1900, their charter) if work ever would be done. charter was amended; and after a lapse of Just at this stage, too, Engineer William nearly five years (May 18, 1906), a set of en B. Parsons discovered the presence of quick tirely new plans were filed, but were not ap- sand, which caused him to shake his head in 12 CAPE COD MAGAZINE a doubtful manner, and for the time being ence of County and Town officials, said: canal matters hung in the balance. The late "In digging this first shovelful of soil, I prom Charles M. Thompson, engineer in charge, ise not to desert the task until the last shov who had been in the canal business since elful has been removed." Lockwood's time (1880) and who gave al A silver spade at Bournedale village most his whole life working for their inter First stirred the ancestral soil. ests, asked for one more meeting that he "A certain pride I have," said August B.r might explain his theory. Having surveyed "In building this canal from sea to sea! and studied the canal zone for twenty years, My highest aim in life his wish was granted, and he gave such a To see fulfilled—The Pilgrim's wish! I stand on hallowed soil, reasonable explanation that it seemed proof- Through which they travelled, sailed and fished." positive that not enough quicksand existed to interfere with construction. And, accord During this season the right of way was ingly, forthwith preliminary work began. obtained, and negotiations made for the re February 6, 1907, nearly eight years after moval of the railroad tracks. The first work the bill was signed, the Canal Company ad at the end was begun by the vertised for bids for construction, giving a mammoth bucket dredge Kennedy, followed time limit until the 28th day of March, at later on by others. 12 o'clock noon, to receive proposals. On the In October, the foundation for the big roll last mentioned day, the contract for building lift railroad bridge at Buzzards Bay was con the Cape Cod Canal was awarded to the Cape summated. The next bridge constructed was Cod Construction Company for $11,990,000. the highway bridge in Bourne, followed later This company consisted of DeWitt C. Flan- on by the bridge at Sagamore. nagan, backed by the Belmonts, Engineer On the Sandwich end, the big suction William B. Parsons, a former member of the dredge McKenzie began digging in from the Panama Canal Commission, and John B. Mc sea, Oct. 16, 1909. She had worked one week Donald, contractor for the New York Sub when a terrible gale sprang up and she put way. They in turn sub-let the contract to the for Provincetown, remaining there one week Dignon Construction Company of New York before returning. She did splendid work un for the stonework, and the dredging work til November 9, when a gale sprang up from to the Furst-Clark Construction Company of the north, and she was obliged to flee again Baltimore. for safety. The first stone began to arrive for the During this storm the two lighters at work breakwater in June. But none was allowed on the breakwater were cast ashore and de to be dropped until the Secretary of War stroyed, the crews having a narrow escape. gave his approval of so doing, which was on The several vessels lying at anchor loaded June 17, 1909. On Saturday, June 19, at 3.30 with stone were in imminent peril. Our old p. m., the first stone, weighing one ton, was town of Sandwich was all excitement. The dropped overboard in 40 feet of water. From new motor-power lifeboat from Province- that time, work went steadily on, until 10,- town was sent for and came across the bay 000,000 tons of stone had been used in the through the mountainous seas; also the Man- construction of the breakwater. omet lifeboat' and crew came overland with June 22, 1909, August P. Belmont officially horses. The U. S. Cutter "Gresham" was dug the first earth midway of the canal zone, telephoned for. She came and "stood by" in the presence of a company of fifty or more until all danger was over, the vessels holding men, representing more wealth than had ever to their anchor and not a man lost. before stepped upon Cape Cod soil at any one The McKenzie sailed again from Province- time. And in their presence, and in the pres town on the night of November 28, arriving CAPE COD MAGAZINE 13

off Sandwich at 4 a. m. the following morn tically struggling to reach Provincetown's ing, the bay being as calm as a mill pond. In harbored shore. an hour's time, without any warning, the The waters from the old canal inside the wind suddenly changed from south to north Sandwich marshes were brought through the east, assuming hurricane proportions. Cap beach bank by means of a small orange-peel tain Cromwell of the tug Buccaneer (70 years dredge. The following spring, on the morn old) set about the task of again pulling the ing of April 6, 1910, a channel was made with McKenzie to Provincetown in the face of a shovels through the narrow strip of sand, let 70-mile gale. ting the water into the sea. At 11 a. m. it During this storm I thought of things started on its course, cutting out the sand so present; I thought of things past; I thought rapidly, that, at 3 p. m. (four hours after-

SUCTION DREDGE AT WORK

of the Bradford storm of 1635, winding oaks ward) a channel fifty feet wide had been and pines during the height of that twenty- made, with a depth of twelve feet at high foot tide. I thought of the storm of '51, water. The McKenzie,, which was in Plym when Minot's Light and its keepers went outh Harbor, was at once notified, and down to death with their duty well done. I was towed, on April 8, across the Bay to thought of the "Portland" storm of '98, I Sandwich, where she passed through the thought of all those souls who met with such opening into safe anchorage. The second an awful fate. big suction dredge, the No. 9, came May I thought of this present storm of 1909; I 2, 1910. thought of what might have happened be During the winter of 1911, two land exca neath the waves of that salt sea brine. I vators were built, which were used to take thought of the dredge McKenzie; I thought the top soil down to water level ahead of the of the tug Buccaneer. I thought of Jimmie, dredges. After awhile these two suction our Sandwich boy; I thought of his father, dredges encountered so many rocks that they too; I thought of all the crew somewhere out were unable to continue in the work, com on the waters deep and blue—but where! No pelling the company to install dipper dredges, one knew! Fifty souls or more were fran- and to carry the spoil out to sea in large 14 CAPE COD MAGAZINE

scows. Accordingly, two large dredges were Selectman George S. McLaughlin said: "I built, one at each end of the canal, the Gov welcome you all to our city of Sandwich!" ernor Herrick, at Sagamore, and the Gov The first pasenger boat to sail through the ernor Warfield, at Buzzards Bay, being entire length of the canal (from Sandwich launched in due time. These were followed to Buzzards Bay) was the Rose Standish, by the dredges Capitol, National and Interna from Boston to New Bedford, on July 28, tional on the Sandwich end; and on the Buz 1914. zards Bay end, the mammoth dredge Ken The following day, July 29, the canal was nedy and the huge dredge Onondaga, the lat officially opened, and those who were on the ter said to remove sixteen cubic yards of spot to witness the passing of the vessels to earth at a scoop. mingle with the thousands of people and en While the suction dredge Federal was joy the exhilarating breezes from old ocean, working her way up Monument River, steam under a clear, blue sky and a bright sunshine, shovels and trains of cars were daily carrying felt as though nature herself was wholly in thousands of tons of soil off on spur tracks accord with this grand celebration! either side of the canal. And, thus the work Furthermore, on this same day, our old went steadily on till August Belmont sailed town of Sandwich was celebrating her 275th through his monumental canal on June 22, birthday, and to do her honor, August Bel 1914, five-years to a day from the day he re mont, in person, left his own fleet of vessels moved the first shovelful of earth. (for a brief half-hour) to join with us in Two months previous to this, April 21, and helping make the occasion one that will al only a few hundred yards from the identical ways be remembered and pass into a life-time spot where the first shovelful was removed, history. His speech was short and to the the barrier across the canal at Bournedale point. He alluded to his ancestral past, the was broken, and the waters of Barnstable age of present development, and the future and Buzzards Bay met for the first time. Mr. prosperity which he hoped the old town would Belmont, taking a glass in each hand, mingled derive from the building of this new water the waters from Barnstable Bay (which he way. At the close of his speech, in the pres held in his left hand) with the waters from ence of the Governor, State officials, invited Buzzards Bay (which he held in his right) guests, townspeople and multitude assem saying as he did so: "May the meeting of bled, William L. Nye, chairman of the recep these waters bring happiness and prosperity tion committee, and president of our Sand to our country and save some of the misery wich Historical Society, had the honor to which the waters of the Cape have caused present to August P. Belmont, in behalf of in the past!" Mr. Belmont and Mr. Parsons, the town of Sandwich, a loving cup as a toker, in the presence of canal officials, shook hands of love and respect, for the courage and per across the narrow stream of water which severance he had in undertaking the largest made Cape Cod an island. enterprise in New England; also, to extend The first cargo into the canal was 2,000 to him the good will and fellowship of our tons of coal brought in by the barge Cassie, community. He being a life member of oui December 14, 1910. Sandwich Historical Society, we, as members The first passenger boat in the canal was feel proud to have his name enrolled upor the steamer King Philip, April 15, 1911, from our books. Boston, bringing in as excursionists over 300 The first vessel to pass through the cana Technology students. after it was officially opened, was the yacht of The next passenger boat was the Dorothy Dr. Samuel Crowell, of Dorchester and Den Bradford, on June 9, 1914, bringing in 1,340 nis, on July 30. He was the first man U passengers. As the gangplank was put out, pay toll for a passage through the new water CAPE COD MAGAZINE 15 way, paying $8.00 to go through and $12 to gan of New York, the $200,000 was deposited return. with the State Treasurer in order that the The first tow through the canal was on charter might be held and maintained. August 12, 1914, an ocean tug and three Through the intelligent foresightedness of barges. William B. Parsons was made possible the The first sailing vessel that went through feasibility of removing 17,000,000 cubic yards was a three-masted schooner, on September of material that the waters might flow across 5, 1914; and the first ocean steamer, the the isthmus. Dutch steamer Terbergen, November 17, When the finding of quicksand was about 1914, being 350 feet long and 3,826 tons bur to halt the proceedings, and almost caused den. She was the largest vessel up to date the company to entirely abandon the project, that had passed through. the late Charles M. Thompson came to the During the first six months, it is said 2,000 rescue, by giving such practical reasons from crafts of all kinds had availed themselves of an engineer's standpoint, that all dangers the privilege of passing through the new arising from quicksand could be entirely waterway. overcome. In length the canal is eight miles long, 25 And, last and greatest of all, August P. feet deep at low tide, 300 feet wide on the Belmont, the only living man who has dared bottom at each end, 100 feet wide on the bot in the face and eyes of the State and Nation tom at the narrowest part, spanned by two to finance to a completion the building of the highway bridges and one railroad bridge, Cape Cod Canal. which, when opened, has a width of 160 feet, Both sides of the banks are riprapped with stone. Also, on posts five hundred feet apart, TO MY FATHER electric lights show the way by night over the entire course from Wings Neck Light to the end of the Sandwich Breakwater, a dis MARO BEATH JONES tance of twelve miles. A saving of some sixty miles or more is Whence sprightly step and raven locks made by sailing through the new waterway. As three-score-ten is passed? The toll for passing through varies accord Why year by year at each birthday Seem'st younger than the last? ing to size and tonnage of the vessel. Dur ing one day last year (July, 1915) nearly Why foldless brow and sparkling eye? $2,000 was taken in, the largest toll ever yet Whence vigor unimpaired? taken in one day. What the secret thou hast with thee— Seventeen million cubic yards of material Shall it with others remain unshared? have been removed in cutting the channel Ah no—the answer is plain at hand, across the Cape, and ten million tons of stone Nor magic lies therein: used in erecting the three thousand feet of The strenuous life exemplified, breakwater at the eastern entrance. A frame uncursed by sin. In the five years only six men have lost No dissipation's baneful blight their lives in the building of this $12,000,000 Hath marred the form God gave to thee; canal. No vice hath seared thy character, In conclusion, I will say that there are five From habits foul art ever free. men whose names will always be remembered as most influential in the carrying out of this And with all this, as do the years Their course relentless roll, great project. Thou hast that grace all-requisite: Through the efforts of DeWitt C. Flanna- Thou hast a youthful soul. 16 CAPE COB MAGAZINE

FARMERS' INSTITUTE FREED0M'S BIRTH A Farmers' Institute was held at Eastham on Wednesday, Feb. 9, under the joint au ALBERT EDWIN NICKERSON spices of the Barnstable County Agricultural Society and Cape Cod Pomona Grange. Roll back your waves, old Ocean blue, President Thomas C. Thacher of the B. That beat on Cape Cod's peaceful shore, And tell the people of the earth C. A. S. presided. That Freedom's spire stands there secure. Dr. Twitchell of Maine spoke on "The Soil That little band of Heaven-born souls and the Man," a good, practical talk on farm That floated o'er your foaming crest, ing, showing where improvements could be Found here a shelter for their bark made in some of the farming methods of Secure at last from tyrant's quest. Cape Cod. Within your rugged, outstretched arm, After his address he answered a number Where white man ne'er had slept before, of questions asked by persons present. These Pilgrims rested for a space Hon. Thomas C. Thacher spoke on the Y. And thanked their God upon your shore, M. C. A., Boy Scouts, Society for the Preven That they, at last, had found a land Where troubled hearts could find relief tion of Cruelty to Children, Cape Cod Farm From haughty monarch's stern commands, Bureau and Rural Credits. That made their land a home of grief. There were about 75 present. After the Institute a meeting of Cape Cod At anchor safe the Mayflower lay, Pomona Grange was held. There were 91 One hundred souls comprised her band, And in her cabin wrote the scroll present at the evening session. That marked the birth of Freedom's land. Where, graven on that granite spire CHATHAM ON THE BOOM That lifts its head to Heaven on high, Will tell the ages yet to come Chatham is one of the busiest towns on The "Compact" was not made to die. the Cape in the way of annexing new enter Lift up your head, Oh! Pilgrim tower, prises. The town's latest is a cold storage On Cape Cod's naked, outer rim, factory, capital for which is now being Above the early mists of morn raised at this and adjoining villages. And gleam across the Ocean's brim, Chatham's first venture was the Chatham A beacon light to troubled minds That seek our shores for Freedom's air, Bars Inn, built about three years ago by And burn the message in their breasts, Charles W. Hardy, a summer resident. Next A welcome to this land so fair. came the mammoth Marconi wireless station at North Chatham, constructed two years Long may your granite walls defy ago at a cost of $2,000,000. A few months The Ocean's storms and Winter's gale, And tell the stranger at your feet ago the Weld Manufacturing Company built a That you are firm, what e'er assail! big factory and has received large orders. 'Twas in the shadows of your dome Now the cold storage plant, headed by a These martyrs knelt in humble prayer, resident of Boston, it is said, will be capital And broke allegiance to thy Throne ized at $125,000, and work will start at once. And signed the sacred "Compact" there.

Frederick Tudor of Bay End Farm, Buz Jonathan Bates, last surviving member of zards Bay, again possesses the license plate the celebrated firm of fur dealers, died re No. 1 for his automobile. Mr. Tudor has re cently in Boston at the age of 84. He had a ceived the same number for the past several summer home on the Cape. years.