110 Misconceptions About the Ocean Oceanography B Y R O B Ert J

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

110 Misconceptions About the Ocean Oceanography B Y R O B Ert J This article has This been published in or collective redistirbution of any portion of this article by photocopy machine, reposting, or other means is permitted only with the approval of The approval portionthe ofwith any permitted articleonly photocopy by is of machine, reposting, this means or collective or other redistirbution EDUCATIO N 110 Misconceptions About the Ocean Oceanography B Y R O B erT J . F E LL er , Volume 20, Number 4, a quarterly journal of The 20, Number 4, a quarterly , Volume Misconceptions impede student learn- at the University of Washington in sum- classes I’ve taught since 1970, one would ing, especially in science. As teachers mer 1970 (taught by Eddy Carmack, think that few misconceptions would go of earth science, we would be wise to by the way), I have come across stu- unheard or unread on tests, but this is identify misconceptions whenever pos- dent misconceptions too numerous to simply not the case. I still confront new sible before launching new topics in count. The very first one came during ones all the time. Thanks to the current our oceanography courses. A good way a one-on-one laboratory write-up help crop of students in my Fundamentals to do this is to pose creative, multiple- session in this class. The student was a of Biological Oceanography class, O ceanography Society. Society. ceanography choice, PowerPoint questions that freshman nonoceanography, nonscience a few more were added to the list can be answered anonymously using major who wondered why people in just this semester. student-response systems, “clickers,” in the Southern Hemisphere didn’t fall What you do with misconceptions can large introductory classes (Beatty et al., off the earth. For some odd reason, this vary quite a bit. Basically, I use a con- C opyright 2007 by The 2007 by opyright 2006; Caldwell, 2007) (Figure 1). Having same student also had trouble solving structivist inquiry approach built upon taught many such classes for nonscience rate x time = distance problems, not to the conceptual change model (CCM; majors—mostly without clickers—since mention difficulties with metric system Stepans, 2006). This learning model my very first laboratory as a teaching conversions. With class sizes ranging encourages students in the classroom to O ceanography Society. Society. ceanography O assistant in the evening OCN 101 course from 15 to 415 in the 40+ oceanography confront their own preconceptions, as or Th e [email protected] Send Society. ceanography to: correspondence all well as those of their classmates, and to then strive to resolve them. The CCM A has six stages: (1) students become aware reproduction, systemmatic Republication, article for use and research. this copy in teaching to granted ll rights reserved. is Permission O ceanography Society, P Society, ceanography O B Figure 1. Example of a “clicker”—a multiple-choice, PowerPoint question that 1931, Rockville,ox M can be answered anonymously using student-response systems in large intro- ductory classes. The slide on the right includes the responses obtained anony- mously from my students (n = 89 nonscience majors). Here, the green bar indi- cates the correct answer. This slide shows that many students have not made D the connection of tides as waves, or that water motion can be influenced by 20849-1931, the tide. For some reason they view the tide simply as a change in the vertical height of water—how in the world could a wave do something like that? U S A . 170 Oceanography Vol. 20, No. 4 of their preconceptions about a concept “That’s what I was thinking” or “Yeah, my tions, most have been uttered in some by thinking about it and making predic- science teacher told us that” or “Isn’t that way by undergraduates but, unfortu- tions (commit to an outcome); (2) they what the book says?” or “That’s the way nately, many come from an alarmist expose their beliefs by sharing them, ini- my friend explained it to me” or some media or science teachers (and par- tially in small groups and then with the such remark. They love confirmation of ents!) whose only, if any, undergraduate entire class; (3) they confront their beliefs their way of thinking, right or wrong— courses in science were of the “rocks for in small group discussions; (4) students that’s just human nature. It is never a jocks” and self-paced astronomy ilk. If then resolve conflicts between their good idea for the teacher to simply state you want to learn more about science ideas (based on classroom discussions) that they are wrong and tell them here’s misconceptions in general, a great place and their observations (based on new the way it is—this doesn’t get to the root to start is Driver et al. (1994). You will or additional information provided), of their misconception. They have to be amazed by their findings. The recent thereby accommodating the new con- reach a state of confusion before they can article by Bloom and Weisberg (2007) cept; (5) students extend the concept rectify their thinking based on the new on resistance to understanding science by trying to make connections between evidence or information. Once you have is also quite instructive to anyone who what they just learned in the classroom sort of gotten them hooked into your line teaches science in any field. It is now and their daily lives; lastly, (6) students of reasoning, then you can back up and time to HEM and HAW—Help Eradicate are encouraged to go beyond their level explain where the flaws exist by showing Misconceptions and join the Hunt for of understanding and pursue additional the new (to them, anyway) information Additional Wisdom. I must now turn questions related to the concept. In brief, again and explaining why you reject that my attention to misconceptions in biol- you lead students to a quandry that con- particular line of reasoning. ogy and ecology. Did you know that flicts with their current level of under- I provide some common misconcep- the nonliquid biomass a tree accumu- standing (the misconception or incorrect tions on the next two pages (with apolo- lates as it grows from a seed comes perception), so they must now confront gies for an obvious southeastern seafood from the soil? Those who teach carbon their level of understanding with evi- bias engendered by wonderful field trips cycles and global warming better attack dence or data to the contrary that should, with students to barrier islands off the this one right away. I guess CO2 is just hopefully, lead them to a new under- South Carolina coast). They are catego- blowing in the wind… standing of whatever is the “truth.” rized rather loosely, and the number I also sometimes simply discuss a assigned to each has no significance as ReferenCes PowerPoint slide directly with the class to how frequently I’ve heard it or how Beatty, I.D., W.J. Gerace, W.J. Leonard, and R.J. Dufresne. 2006. Designing effective questions for after seeing how many have selected an deeply embedded it is. Many of these classroom response system teaching. American answer that would indicate a misconcep- you will have encountered before, some Journal of Physics 74(1):31–39. Bloom, P., and D.S. Weisberg. 2007. Childhood origins tion exists. I try to figure out why some- may be new, but none had as great an of adult resistance to science. Science 316:996–997. one would think that way, and I do this impact on me as #40, dutifully pro- Caldwell, J.E. 2007. Clickers in the large classroom: out loud, sort of reasoning to myself. nounced about 20 years ago by one of Current research and best-practice tips. CBE Life Science Education 6(1):9–20. Surprisingly, having heard my line of rea- my children’s elementary-level science Driver, R., A. Squires, P. Rushworth, and V. Wood- soning to justify reaching the incorrect teachers. Because of its obvious potential Robinson. 1994. Making Sense of Secondary Science: Research into Children’s Ideas. Routledge, KY, answer, students will frequently blurt out for causing harm, this single uninformed 210 pp. misstatement of fact about seawater and Stepans, J. 2006. Targeting Students’ Science Misconceptions. Physical Science Concepts Using the ROBerT J. FELLer electricity was the initial impetus for ([email protected]) Conceptual Change Model, 3rd ed. Showboard, Inc., is Professor, Marine Science Program my more recent formal forays into the Clearwater, FL, 286 pp. and Department of Biological Sciences, complex, challenging world of science and Director, Center for Science education—I simply had to get more This is Contribution No. 1464 from the Education, University of South Carolina, deeply involved. Belle W. Baruch Institute for Marine & Columbia, SC, USA. As for the origins of these misconcep- Coastal Sciences. Oceanography December 2007 171 110 Misconceptions About the Ocean WAves/TIDes/CUrrenTS 27. Nuclear submarines routinely dive to the bottom 1. Waves are highest near shore, don’t break much in of the ocean. the open ocean. 28. The clearest ocean water is in the Caribbean. 2. The open ocean is static, still, and quiet compared to 29. The Bermuda Triangle is a really unsafe, dangerous place. the coast’s big waves. 30. There are no more pirates on the high seas—that’s just in 3. Tsunamis occur after every underwater earthquake. the movies. 4. Tides are caused by Earth’s rotation. 31. Undertow = “under-toe,” the swash/backwash erosion 5. Tidal currents are fast and therefore deadly. underfoot on the beach. 6. Ignoring tides, sea level is the same everywhere. 32. Where does seawater go when sea level drops? It changes 7.
Recommended publications
  • Methane Cold Seeps As Biological Oases in the High‐
    LIMNOLOGY and Limnol. Oceanogr. 00, 2017, 00–00 VC 2017 The Authors Limnology and Oceanography published by Wiley Periodicals, Inc. OCEANOGRAPHY on behalf of Association for the Sciences of Limnology and Oceanography doi: 10.1002/lno.10732 Methane cold seeps as biological oases in the high-Arctic deep sea Emmelie K. L. A˚ strom€ ,1* Michael L. Carroll,1,2 William G. Ambrose, Jr.,1,2,3,4 Arunima Sen,1 Anna Silyakova,1 JoLynn Carroll1,2 1CAGE - Centre for Arctic Gas Hydrate, Environment and Climate, Department of Geosciences, UiT The Arctic University of Norway, Tromsø, Norway 2Akvaplan-niva, FRAM – High North Research Centre for Climate and the Environment, Tromsø, Norway 3Division of Polar Programs, National Science Foundation, Arlington, Virginia 4Department of Biology, Bates College, Lewiston, Maine Abstract Cold seeps can support unique faunal communities via chemosynthetic interactions fueled by seabed emissions of hydrocarbons. Additionally, cold seeps can enhance habitat complexity at the deep seafloor through the accretion of methane derived authigenic carbonates (MDAC). We examined infaunal and mega- faunal community structure at high-Arctic cold seeps through analyses of benthic samples and seafloor pho- tographs from pockmarks exhibiting highly elevated methane concentrations in sediments and the water column at Vestnesa Ridge (VR), Svalbard (798 N). Infaunal biomass and abundance were five times higher, species richness was 2.5 times higher and diversity was 1.5 times higher at methane-rich Vestnesa compared to a nearby control region. Seabed photos reveal different faunal associations inside, at the edge, and outside Vestnesa pockmarks. Brittle stars were the most common megafauna occurring on the soft bottom plains out- side pockmarks.
    [Show full text]
  • Hydrothermal Vents. Teacher's Notes
    Hydrothermal Vents Hydrothermal Vents. Teacher’s notes. A hydrothermal vent is a fissure in a planet's surface from which geothermally heated water issues. They are usually volcanically active. Seawater penetrates into fissures of the volcanic bed and interacts with the hot, newly formed rock in the volcanic crust. This heated seawater (350-450°) dissolves large amounts of minerals. The resulting acidic solution, containing metals (Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu) and large amounts of reduced sulfur and compounds such as sulfides and H2S, percolates up through the sea floor where it mixes with the cold surrounding ocean water (2-4°) forming mineral deposits and different types of vents. In the resulting temperature gradient, these minerals provide a source of energy and nutrients to chemoautotrophic organisms that are, thus, able to live in these extreme conditions. This is an extreme environment with high pressure, steep temperature gradients, and high concentrations of toxic elements such as sulfides and heavy metals. Black and white smokers Some hydrothermal vents form a chimney like structure that can be as 60m tall. They are formed when the minerals that are dissolved in the fluid precipitates out when the super-heated water comes into contact with the freezing seawater. The minerals become particles with high sulphur content that form the stack. Black smokers are very acidic typically with a ph. of 2 (around that of vinegar). A black smoker is a type of vent found at depths typically below 3000m that emit a cloud or black material high in sulphates. White smokers are formed in a similar way but they emit lighter-hued minerals, for example barium, calcium and silicon.
    [Show full text]
  • Introduction to Co2 Chemistry in Sea Water
    INTRODUCTION TO CO2 CHEMISTRY IN SEA WATER Andrew G. Dickson Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego Mauna Loa Observatory, Hawaii Monthly Average Carbon Dioxide Concentration Data from Scripps CO Program Last updated August 2016 2 ? 410 400 390 380 370 2008; ~385 ppm 360 350 Concentration (ppm) 2 340 CO 330 1974; ~330 ppm 320 310 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 Year EFFECT OF ADDING CO2 TO SEA WATER 2− − CO2 + CO3 +H2O ! 2HCO3 O C O CO2 1. Dissolves in the ocean increase in decreases increases dissolved CO2 carbonate bicarbonate − HCO3 H O O also hydrogen ion concentration increases C H H 2. Reacts with water O O + H2O to form bicarbonate ion i.e., pH = –lg [H ] decreases H+ and hydrogen ion − HCO3 and saturation state of calcium carbonate decreases H+ 2− O O CO + 2− 3 3. Nearly all of that hydrogen [Ca ][CO ] C C H saturation Ω = 3 O O ion reacts with carbonate O O state K ion to form more bicarbonate sp (a measure of how “easy” it is to form a shell) M u l t i p l e o b s e r v e d indicators of a changing global carbon cycle: (a) atmospheric concentrations of carbon dioxide (CO2) from Mauna Loa (19°32´N, 155°34´W – red) and South Pole (89°59´S, 24°48´W – black) since 1958; (b) partial pressure of dissolved CO2 at the ocean surface (blue curves) and in situ pH (green curves), a measure of the acidity of ocean water.
    [Show full text]
  • Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard (2012)
    FGDC-STD-018-2012 Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard Marine and Coastal Spatial Data Subcommittee Federal Geographic Data Committee June, 2012 Federal Geographic Data Committee FGDC-STD-018-2012 Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard, June 2012 ______________________________________________________________________________________ CONTENTS PAGE 1. Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Objectives ................................................................................................................ 1 1.2 Need ......................................................................................................................... 2 1.3 Scope ........................................................................................................................ 2 1.4 Application ............................................................................................................... 3 1.5 Relationship to Previous FGDC Standards .............................................................. 4 1.6 Development Procedures ......................................................................................... 5 1.7 Guiding Principles ................................................................................................... 7 1.7.1 Build a Scientifically Sound Ecological Classification .................................... 7 1.7.2 Meet the Needs of a Wide Range of Users ......................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Grade 3 Unit 2 Overview Open Ocean Habitats Introduction
    G3 U2 OVR GRADE 3 UNIT 2 OVERVIEW Open Ocean Habitats Introduction The open ocean has always played a vital role in the culture, subsistence, and economic well-being of Hawai‘i’s inhabitants. The Hawaiian Islands lie in the Pacifi c Ocean, a body of water covering more than one-third of the Earth’s surface. In the following four lessons, students learn about open ocean habitats, from the ocean’s lighter surface to the darker bottom fl oor thousands of feet below the surface. Although organisms are scarce in the deep sea, there is a large diversity of organisms in addition to bottom fi sh such as polycheate worms, crustaceans, and bivalve mollusks. They come to realize that few things in the open ocean have adapted to cope with the increased pressure from the weight of the water column at that depth, in complete darkness and frigid temperatures. Students fi nd out, through instruction, presentations, and website research, that the vast open ocean is divided into zones. The pelagic zone consists of the open ocean habitat that begins at the edge of the continental shelf and extends from the surface to the ocean bottom. This zone is further sub-divided into the photic (sunlight) and disphotic (twilight) zones where most ocean organisms live. Below these two sub-zones is the aphotic (darkness) zone. In this unit, students learn about each of the ocean zones, and identify and note animals living in each zone. They also research and keep records of the evolutionary physical features and functions that animals they study have acquired to survive in harsh open ocean habitats.
    [Show full text]
  • World Ocean Thermocline Weakening and Isothermal Layer Warming
    applied sciences Article World Ocean Thermocline Weakening and Isothermal Layer Warming Peter C. Chu * and Chenwu Fan Naval Ocean Analysis and Prediction Laboratory, Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 93943, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-831-656-3688 Received: 30 September 2020; Accepted: 13 November 2020; Published: 19 November 2020 Abstract: This paper identifies world thermocline weakening and provides an improved estimate of upper ocean warming through replacement of the upper layer with the fixed depth range by the isothermal layer, because the upper ocean isothermal layer (as a whole) exchanges heat with the atmosphere and the deep layer. Thermocline gradient, heat flux across the air–ocean interface, and horizontal heat advection determine the heat stored in the isothermal layer. Among the three processes, the effect of the thermocline gradient clearly shows up when we use the isothermal layer heat content, but it is otherwise when we use the heat content with the fixed depth ranges such as 0–300 m, 0–400 m, 0–700 m, 0–750 m, and 0–2000 m. A strong thermocline gradient exhibits the downward heat transfer from the isothermal layer (non-polar regions), makes the isothermal layer thin, and causes less heat to be stored in it. On the other hand, a weak thermocline gradient makes the isothermal layer thick, and causes more heat to be stored in it. In addition, the uncertainty in estimating upper ocean heat content and warming trends using uncertain fixed depth ranges (0–300 m, 0–400 m, 0–700 m, 0–750 m, or 0–2000 m) will be eliminated by using the isothermal layer.
    [Show full text]
  • Sea-Level Rise for the Coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington: Past, Present, and Future
    Sea-Level Rise for the Coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington: Past, Present, and Future As more and more states are incorporating projections of sea-level rise into coastal planning efforts, the states of California, Oregon, and Washington asked the National Research Council to project sea-level rise along their coasts for the years 2030, 2050, and 2100, taking into account the many factors that affect sea-level rise on a local scale. The projections show a sharp distinction at Cape Mendocino in northern California. South of that point, sea-level rise is expected to be very close to global projections; north of that point, sea-level rise is projected to be less than global projections because seismic strain is pushing the land upward. ny significant sea-level In compliance with a rise will pose enor- 2008 executive order, mous risks to the California state agencies have A been incorporating projec- valuable infrastructure, devel- opment, and wetlands that line tions of sea-level rise into much of the 1,600 mile shore- their coastal planning. This line of California, Oregon, and study provides the first Washington. For example, in comprehensive regional San Francisco Bay, two inter- projections of the changes in national airports, the ports of sea level expected in San Francisco and Oakland, a California, Oregon, and naval air station, freeways, Washington. housing developments, and sports stadiums have been Global Sea-Level Rise built on fill that raised the land Following a few thousand level only a few feet above the years of relative stability, highest tides. The San Francisco International Airport (center) global sea level has been Sea-level change is linked and surrounding areas will begin to flood with as rising since the late 19th or to changes in the Earth’s little as 40 cm (16 inches) of sea-level rise, a early 20th century, when climate.
    [Show full text]
  • Beach Safety in Atypical Rip Current Systems: Testing Traditional Beach Safety Messages in Non-Traditional Settings
    Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings Benjamin Robert Van Leeuwen A thesis in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science School of Biological, Earth and Environmental Science (BEES) Faculty of Science Supervisors: Associate Professor Robert Brander, School of Biological, Earth and Environmental Sciences, UNSW Australia, Sydney, NSW, 2052, Australia Professor Ian Turner, Water Research Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, UNSW Australia, Manly Vale, NSW, 2093, Australia July 2015 PLEASE TYPE THE UNIVERSITY OF NEW SOUTH WALES Thesis/Dissertation Sheet Surname or Family name: Van Leeuwen First name: Benjamin Other name/s: Robert Abbreviation for degree as given in the University calendar: MSc School: School of Biological, Earth and Environmental Sciences Faculty: Science Title: Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings Abstract 350 words maximum: (PLEASE TYPE) As a major coastal process and hazard, rip currents are a topic of considerable interest from both a scientific and safety perspective. Collaborations between these two areas are a recent development, yet a scientific basis for safety information is crucial to better understanding how to avoid and mitigate the hazard presented by rip currents. One such area is the field of swimmer escape strategies. Contemporary safety advice is divided on the relative merits of a ‘Stay Afloat’ versus ‘Swim Parallel’ strategy, yet conceptual understanding of both these strategies is largely based on an idealised model of rip current morphology and flow dynamics where channels are incised in shore-connected bars.
    [Show full text]
  • Marine Science Virtual Lesson Biological Oceanography Photo Credit: Getty Images
    Marine Science Virtual Lesson Biological Oceanography Photo credit: Getty Images • The study of how plants and animals interact with What is each other and their marine environment. • How organisms affect and are affected by chemical, Biological physical, and geological oceanography Oceanography? • Studies life in the ocean from tiny algae to giant blue whales Marine Environment Photo credit: Getty Images Biological Pump Some CO2 is • Carbon sink is part of the released through biological pump respiration • The pump includes upwelling that brings nutrient back up the water column • Releasing some CO2 through respiration Upwelling of nutrients Photosynthesis • Sunlight and CO2 is used to make sugar and oxygen • Can be used as fuel for an organism's movement and biological processes • Such as: circulatory system, digestive system, and respiration Where Can You Find Life in the Ocean • Plants and algae are found in the euphotic zone of the ocean • Where light reaches • Animals are found at all depths of the ocean • Most live-in the euphotic zone where there is more prey • 90% of species live and rely in euphotic zones • the littoral (close to shore) and sublittoral (coastal areas) zones Photo credit: libretexts.org Photo credit: Christian Sardet/CNRS/Tara Expéditions Plankton • Drifting animals • Follow the ocean currents (don’t swim) • Holoplankton • Spend entire lives in water column • Meroplankton • Temporary residents of plankton community • Larvae of benthic organisms Plankton 2.0 • Phytoplankton • Autotrophic (photosynthetic) Photo
    [Show full text]
  • Causes of Sea Level Rise
    FACT SHEET Causes of Sea OUR COASTAL COMMUNITIES AT RISK Level Rise What the Science Tells Us HIGHLIGHTS From the rocky shoreline of Maine to the busy trading port of New Orleans, from Roughly a third of the nation’s population historic Golden Gate Park in San Francisco to the golden sands of Miami Beach, lives in coastal counties. Several million our coasts are an integral part of American life. Where the sea meets land sit some of our most densely populated cities, most popular tourist destinations, bountiful of those live at elevations that could be fisheries, unique natural landscapes, strategic military bases, financial centers, and flooded by rising seas this century, scientific beaches and boardwalks where memories are created. Yet many of these iconic projections show. These cities and towns— places face a growing risk from sea level rise. home to tourist destinations, fisheries, Global sea level is rising—and at an accelerating rate—largely in response to natural landscapes, military bases, financial global warming. The global average rise has been about eight inches since the centers, and beaches and boardwalks— Industrial Revolution. However, many U.S. cities have seen much higher increases in sea level (NOAA 2012a; NOAA 2012b). Portions of the East and Gulf coasts face a growing risk from sea level rise. have faced some of the world’s fastest rates of sea level rise (NOAA 2012b). These trends have contributed to loss of life, billions of dollars in damage to coastal The choices we make today are critical property and infrastructure, massive taxpayer funding for recovery and rebuild- to protecting coastal communities.
    [Show full text]
  • The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
    1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance.
    [Show full text]
  • Oceans in Motion TCS 2018
    TCS Marine Biology C. Woodward Oceans in Motion TCS 2018 Oceans in Motion Oceans in Motion – TIDES (“la marea”) • Caused by gravitational forces between moon & Earth • Also influenced by sun, tilt of Earth, topography, and other factors DAILY TIDE CYCLE • 2 high tides, 2 low tides per 24 hrs (due to Earth’s rotation) • Tides get ~1 hr later each day gravitational pull of moon See Figs. Oceans in Motion - TIDES MONTHLY TIDE CYCLE • Due to moon’s orbit around Earth, and gravitational pull of moon & sun • 2 spring and 2 neap tides per month Fig. 3.33 Catherine Woodward 1 of 6 Tropical Conservation Semester 1 TCS Marine Biology C. Woodward Oceans in Motion TCS 2018 Oceans in Motion – WAVES (“las olas”) SURFACE WATER MOVEMENT is wind driven Waves = upper surface; move water only to ≈1/2 wavelength (λ) Nybakken Fig 1.10 See C&H Fig. 3.27 Oceans in Motion Water movement is circular But circles not closed, especially in big waves and shallow water. Stoke’s Drift = displacement of water in the direction of wave movement Oceans in Motion SWELLS Wave size determined by: • Wind speed • Fetch • Duration See C&H Fig. 3.29 Longer waves move faster Catherine Woodward 2 of 6 Tropical Conservation Semester 2 TCS Marine Biology C. Woodward Oceans in Motion TCS 2018 Oceans in Motion – CURRENTS (“la corriente”) NEAR-SHORE CURRENTS • Created by wind (= waves) and shore topography • Longshore current, undertow, rip current Undertow: The seaward return of water along the bottom underneath breaking waves Oceans in Motion NEAR-SHORE CURRENTS • Created by wind (= waves) and shore topography • Longshore current, undertow, rip current Longshore current: Results when waves hit shore at an angle, pushing water and material down the shore.
    [Show full text]