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Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera

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Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera Why Go? genoa ........................ 166 The beauty of northwestern Italy is its diversity. You only Riviera di Levante .......179 have to take a short train ride out of Turin and everything changes: food, culture, scenery – even the language. Cinque Terre ...............183 The seduction starts in Liguria, a thin, precipitous coastal Riviera di Ponente ......193 strip famous for its food (pesto and focaccia), swanky re- Turin ............................197 sorts and the once-powerful independent trading empire of The milky Way ............212 Genoa. Piedmont is a flat, fertile medallion of land trapped Southern & between the Alps and the Mediterranean – an economic Eastern Piedmont ......214 and political powerhouse that provided the nation with its first capital (Turin), a popular car (Fiat) and, more recently, Varallo & Valsesia ......226 Slow Food and fine wine. Mountainous Aosta, meanwhile, is Aosta.......................... 227 a semi-autonomous Alpine region with a different history, Courmayeur ..............233 its own language, and ample skiing and hiking terrain, all gran Paradiso ............235 guarded by Europe’s highest mountains. Valtournenche ........... 237 If the three regions have anything in common it’s their House of Savoy connections and proud sense of history. Italy, in the modern sense, was invented right here. Best Places to Eat ¨¨L’Acino (p208) When to Go Turin ¨¨Trattoria della Raibetta °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm (p175) 30/86 8/200 ¨¨4 Ciance (p215) 20/68 6/150 ¨¨Osteria dei Sognatori (p220) 10/50 4/100 0/32 2/50 -10/14 0 Best Places to J F DNOSAJJMAM Stay ¨¨Hotel Royal Superga (p214) Jan–Mar m ost Apr Fewer crowds Sep & Oct Late- reliable snow and better hiking season hiking ¨¨Hotel Cairoli (p173) cover for skiing in on the Ligurian in the Alps and ¨¨Hotel Langhe (p217) the Alps. coast. autumn food festivals in Turin ¨ ¨La Torretta Charme & and Alba. Relax (p189) 163 Piedmont Discount Card DON’T¨MISS Serious sightseers will save a bundle with a Torino¨+¨Pie- The region’s newest monte¨ Card (www.turismotorino.org; 2/3/5 days €25/29/34). sight is an extrava- It covers admission to 190 of the region’s monuments and gantly refurbished museums, and offers reductions on various forms of public car museum in Turin’s transport, including Turin’s Sassi–Superga tram, GTT boats up-and-coming Lin- on the Po river and the Turismo Bus Torino. It also offers gotto district, known as discounts on some guided tours and theatres. You can buy the Museo Nazionale the card at Turin’s tourist office. dell’Automobile. Ligu TURIN’S¨CULINARY¨CREATIONS Lavazza The family-run coffee company was founded in Unesco World R ia, Piedmont & the Via San Tommaso in 1895 and, along with Trieste-based Heritage Sites Illy, dominates Italy’s legendary coffee industry with an ¨¨Cinque¨Terre Medieval annual turnover of nearly €1 billion. fishing villages and Chocolate Though no one city can claim to have in- landscaped cliffsides on the vented chocolate, the Torinese have better claims than Ligurian coast. most: their genius was to blend cocoa with Piedmon- ¨¨Residences¨of¨the¨Royal¨ tese hazlenuts to form the epic gianduja (soft hazelnut House¨of¨Turin A collection chocolate), the precursor to Nutella and plenty of other of baroque pleasure chocolate goodies. i palaces in and around Turin, ta Grissini Breadsticks were allegedly invented by a To- including Palazzo Madama, L rinese baker in the 1670s to help the poor digestion of Palazzo Reale and Venaria ian Rivie the future king Vittorio Amedeo II. The crunchy snacks Reale. caught on and are ubiquitous in most Italian restaurants ¨¨Sacri¨Monti Nine sacred and delis. mountains in Piedmont and R Lombardy with chapels and a pilgrims’ paths dedicated to L I the Christian faith. g uria Cinque Terre – After the Floods ¨¨Palazzi¨dei¨Rolli Forty- two Renaissance and Freakishly wet weather along the Ligurian coast in October baroque palaces in Genoa. 2011 brought devastating flash floods to the two Cinque Terre towns of Vernazza and Monterosso, burying many of their historic streets and houses under several metres of mud. Tragically, half-a-dozen people were killed and Resources Monterosso’s mayor emotionally declared that his town no ¨¨Liguria www. longer existed. However, employing a stoicism shaped by turismoinliguria.it centuries of fighting off tiresome invaders, Cinque Terre has ¨¨Piedmont www. bounced back. As of 2013, most businesses are open again, piemonteitalia.eu although you may want to check ahead vis-à-vis the status of the iconic, but increasingly delicate Sentiero Azzurro (blue ¨¨Valle¨d’Aosta www. walking trail). lovevda.it ¨¨Turin www.turismotorino. org.
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