THE MAGAZINE OF THE NSW SEA CLUB ISSUE 106 | NOVEMBER 2017

SAILING | Rules of the Sea | WHALES | Humble Pie | CAPRICORNIA | Crete 2

This page: Fernando at Blue Fish Point, Manly (Image - Bill Raffle) Front cover: “Where did it go?” Nick Blacklock at Gerrin Point, near Maitland CONTENTS Bay (Image - Caoimhin Ardren) From the President’s Deck 3 Rock ‘n’ Roll 2018 4 NSW Club Inc. From the Editor’s Desk 5 PO BOX R1302, ROYAL EXCHANGE NSW 1225 Training and Technical The NSWSKC is a voluntary organisation run by members who give their time The Journey to Sea Skills 6 freely to the club. Membership is offered yearly. Please see the website for details and application. www.nswseakayaker.asn.au Navigation Training Weekend 8 PRESIDENT: TRIPS CONVENOR: Rules of the Sea 10 Tony Murphy Selim Tezcan Hamstrings and 16 [email protected] [email protected] Free as the Breeze 18 VICE PRESIDENT: ROCK ’N ROLL COORDINATOR: Feature Neil Duffy Simon Swifte [email protected] [email protected] Thingy in the Water 22 The Coast Boast 23 SECRETARY/TREASURER: INTERNET COORDINATOR: Paul Thomas Vacant Kayaking vs Boating 26 [email protected] [email protected]

Krill Oil - Whale Attractant 27 TRAINING COORDINATOR: EDITOR: Hawkesbury Classic 28 Megan Pryke Ruby Ardren [email protected] [email protected] Club Trips Contributions yes please! Salt the magazine of the NSW Sea Kayak Club is published three to four times a Broughton Birthday 33 year by the NSW Sea Kayak Club. The NSWSKC welcomes articles relating to sea kayaking for inclusion in the Club’s magazine and website. Publication in the magazine and/or website is at the sole discretion Private Trips of the editor. All articles submitted are subject to review by the editor who reserves the right to reject or Sea Kayakers Get Fresh 36 edit material. Please email contributions as Microsoft Word or text files. Images need to be supplied at the highest possible resolution. All material is copyright. The contributor retains underlying intellectual property A Large Slice of Humble Pie 38 rights in the contribution however the contributor grants the club a global perpetual all-media license to publish the contribution in club communications, including in print and digitally. Reproduction in whole or North by Nadgee II 40 part is strictly forbidden without written permission from the editor, author or photographer. Advertisers must adhere to legal requirements and undertake to indemnify NSWSKC against any consequences Going Boldy in Capricornia 42 arising out of their advertisements. For further information contact the editor. Watching Whales 48 All views expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and are not necessarily those of the The Dolce Vita 49 NSWSKC. IMPORTANT: Please review the Paddler Safety, Required Equipment, Grading System and Club Calendar South West Crete 50 sections of the club website.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 3

From the President’s Deck 2018 Membership Year is Open TONY MURPHY If you have a friend interested in sea kayaking, now is a good time to talk to them about joining our club as new members joining from today are entitled to 2018 membership and can participate in club November and December The president’s chair has gone a 2017 events. little cold since Megan left it in July, You Can Renew in Advance but I will be keeping it warm for now. To participate in 2018 club events, The committee is authorised to you will need to have renewed your make appointments to vacant membership. Why wait until we committee roles. Neil Duffy Speaking of Rock ‘n’ Roll - we have remind you again if you can renew volunteered to join the committee, a date. And a location! We’ve set today? but not to take on the President’s a placeholder for Friday April 6 to role. So, at the last committee Sunday April 8 2018 at Currarong. Membership fees are the same meeting: Registration will open early in 2018, as the last few years, single $85, after membership renewals in additional family $45.00 and - I resigned from the Vice November / December. discounted (see below) $42.50. President’s role, leaving it vacant And so to grades. Rummaging Please note that if you hold an - The committee appointed Neil to in the club membership records I the vacant role of Vice President Additional Family membership, the see 70 people ungraded and 36 at primary member needs to renew - The committee appointed me to Grade 1. I think a fair few of these before you do. Each member needs the vacant role of President. are just people whose records aren’t to be renewed under their login. up to date. To see what the club The committee has nominated three records say, log into the website Discounted Membership priorities for this committee year and go down to the bottom left (and I’m trying to get a fourth on the A separate email has been sent to and click on Your Profile then Your books). members deemed eligible to apply Details. If you’ve got your Grade for discounted membership and 1. The bread and butter of the club: 1 or Grade 2 signed off but it’s not who have not previously applied. shown, then just take a photo of the trips, training and Rock ‘n’ Roll. If you have not received this email sign-off page in your logbook and 2. Developing a new website with and think you should have you may email it to our new VP Neil Duffy a commercial provider now that follow the discounted membership [email protected]. Stephan has moved on after six process. years as our Internet Coordinator If you haven’t yet had your Grade 1 Half Price Membership is offered on (add to that a year as trips signed off, then pick a that’s the Single Membership Price (i.e. coordinator, a year as training open to Grade 1s, and email the $42.50) and those members entitled coordinator, and a few R’n’Rs). trip leader and ask them to sign you to this discounted membership off and/or ask Neil to organise a 3. Assisting any Flatwater Guides Welcome to the Club paddle. are required to select one of and Instructors who’d like to the three reasons listed below upgrade to the new Enclosed Sea If you’ve got most of your Grade 2 when renewing or purchasing a Instructor qualification. sign-offs but just need one or two discounted membership: more, then ask a leader on your 4. Getting as many people as ••Members with over 10 years next club paddle, or email me and possible to grade 1 and then to continuous membership I might put up a sign-off trip. And if grade 2 (my pet topic – more you haven’t been to a Basic Skills •• Trip leaders who lead five trips or below). course then I really encourage more a year If you look at this list and think you to do one. Maybe email our •• Current committee members. we’ve missed something critical Training Coordinator Megan Pryke Life members are not required to please drop me a line: ([email protected]) pay a fee. [email protected]. and express your interest.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 4

Rock ‘n’ Roll 2018

We have a date. And a location! Registration for Rock’n’Roll will be manage the registration, run the The club’s next Rock ‘n’ Roll will open in early January 2018 on the beach marshalling, cook the BBQ, be held at Currarong Beach Friday Club’s web site etc. A few volunteer positions have 6 – Monday 9 April, 2018. It will (www.nswseakayaker.asn.au). already been filled but we still need be based at Currarong Beachside Please note that you need to be a a lot more. If you are interested in Holiday Park (Phone: 1300 555 515), financial member of the club when helping with these tasks, please which offers a variety of powered you register for Rock ’n’ Roll. contact the R’n’R Coordinator at and unpowered camping sites, [email protected]. This event is run by volunteers cabins and studios. Currarong who give their time to organise, Beachside Holiday Park will give NSWSKC members a 20 percent discount for phone bookings. The Holiday Park is located on the beach at Currarong, giving easy access to in the open sea from the adjacent river at higher tides or from the sheltered bay in front of the Park. There are also numerous paddling locations around Jervis Bay just a short drive away. This is the club’s premier annual event providing an opportunity for new members to come and The schedule of events will be similar to previous years: meet others in the club and for old Fri AM Informal trips (no organised trips or training) members to catch up. There will be a variety of training sessions for Fri Evening Arrival and registration; welcome and light dinner supplied paddlers to learn new, or improve by Expedition existing skills as well as a raft of Sat AM Registration, briefing, trips or training sessions trips to various destinations around Sat PM BBQ and off water training sessions the area. Sat Evening Dinner and speaker A “Gear for Sale” area will be set Sun AM Briefing, trips or training sessions up near the main marquee for Sun PM Off water training sessions those members that have surplus kayaking equipment they may wish Sun Evening Pogies Awards (paddlers showing videos of their trips) to sell. Mon AM Informal trips

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 5

From the Editor’s Desk (RUBY ARDREN)

Everyone loves it when their photo Low resolution photos will be printed an extra memory card so you can makes the front or back cover of at small sizes and perhaps not take full size images, and you can Salt, and when a photo they’ve used at all if they’re too pixelated or always send the images to me on contributed is used as a double blurred. Please think about buying Dropbox - it’s free! page spread in their article. So often I get wonderful photos sent The left side of the image below has been reduced to 110KB and then expanded to to me that I just can’t use at A4 or A4 size. You can see the pixelation on the bread and stick, and even the night sky has become pixelated. On the right is the 4MB version also expanded to A4 size. A3 size because the resolution just You can see the definition is a lot better. isn’t good enough. For this magazine I had a photo all picked out for the cover and hoped it would be okay, but discovered on the test print that it was too pixelated and unclear. When you’re printing a photo to A4 size, the file really needs to be at least 1.5 MB as a rough guide, and prefably a lot more than that. In pixels, a good guide is at least one megapixel wide. Anything smaller than that will look fuzzy or pixelated when blown up to A4 size. special issue - start cooking now! In an issue of Salt next year, I’d like to do a special on kayaking and food. Give me your food related stories, your photos, your recipes (including for dehydrated meals), your funny food-related incidents. Tell us what you eat on a long day in a kayak with no toilet breaks, or what you might eat on a coffee cruise. We’d like to know how long you’ve gone with only muesli bars to eat, or the best and worst meals you’ve experienced on an expedition. What are your favourite cooking pots/implements? Do you go basic with a campfire and one pot, or do you carry an oven? Do you catch or harvest your own along the way? Anything and everything food-related will be included! This is a photo of an evening Caoimhin and I spent kayak camping recently. We decided to experiment with various ways of cooking damper - two can be seen here: the balls of damper cooked in foil over the coals, and the ‘twist’ on the stick. We like to try things out, because on a long expedition it’s nice to have a bit of variety to break up the dehydrated meals (the twist was best).

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 6 The Journey to Sea Skills (Grade 3) b) An online wind multiple choice quiz to test all that Richard at Broughton Island and wave forecast you have learnt on the journey to (Image - Adrian Clayton) model provided Sea Skills. by the Bureau of One of the first training weekends Meteorology I attended was the Navigation c) The look you get Skills Weekend at Port Stephens from the group leader run by Adrian Clayton and Russ when you know you’re Swinnerton. This provided a day of in trouble. theory on maps, charts, tides and 3. The coastal waters on-water navigation followed by forecast covers: a chance to put it all into practice on the Sunday. Some essential a) The area around learnings for Sea Skills were on- the coast that you water navigation and concepts such can see when you go as the rule of twelfths for calculating kayaking. tidal heights and the rule of thirds b) The area up to for estimating tidal flows. A sighting 60 nautical miles compass was quickly added to the offshore. Christmas present list. c) Waters such as Over the next few months there bays and harbours were club trips to Seal Rocks and where a large number Caves Beach and a catch up with of commercial the local Hunter Kayak Klan off and pleasure craft Swansea. Things started to get operate. serious when “Sea Skills Training” Richard Hackett recently Simple enough? If I had seen these was advertised in the club events qualified for his Sea Skills 18 months ago though, I wouldn’t calendar. I signed up and headed (congratulations Richard!). have had a clue. I’d been paddling down to Umina to join Caoimhin, He talks us through the on and off for 30 years, mainly on Rhys and a few others to be put process of completing the white water rivers with a few sea through our paces. This was when trips thrown in. I could roll and was we really started to learn more and award. pretty happy in a kayak – was there improve our skills from edging to more? towing and rescues at sea – really, Lets start with a few multiple choice do we have to capsize in that rough Sea Skills is an Australian questions: water out there? Can’t we just do it award where “the holder has here where it’s calmer? 1. Is a paddler’s box: demonstrated the ability to plan a) A large plastic container used and conduct personal kayaking Putting the theory into practice was for storing kayaking gear activities in sea kayaks, at sea, in invaluable. As we fumbled with neatly in one place. moderate conditions.” In the NSW tow lines, we realised that a bag b) An imaginary box traced Sea Kayak Club, it is also referred in the day-hatch just isn’t going to between your shoulders, to as Grade 3. The award involves cut it when it needs to be deployed hands and paddle shaft that a practical assessment of kayaking quickly and stowed away in less represents safe limits of skills in surf up to 1m and in winds than 90 seconds - another online movement to protect your up to 21 knots. There is also a order to Expedition Kayaks! We shoulder joints. knowledge assessment where you took care to avoid the “triangle c) Personal protective have to be able demonstrate an of death”, where unsuspecting equipment worn when understanding of tides, winds and swimmers could be taken out as playing . charts etc and nod wisely when we surfed into the beach, and somebody says your boat has a lot learnt to empty boats full of water 2. MetEye is: of rocker. To make sure that you in a T-rescue by edging rather than a) An affliction caused by are not bluffing your way through, hauling them up with brute force sunscreen in your eyes. on the assessment day there is a and ignorance.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 7

And so, the big day loomed, rescheduled for 23 September at elements that could be assessed, assessment time with Adrian and Umina. Paul Thomas and I were we both passed. Unfortunately, the Harry at Umina. The Monday to be assessed by Adrian Clayton swell was small and the Box Head beforehand, the weather picture and Megan Pryke. The week surf break didn’t pick up even on started to unfold. Temperatures beforehand though was a sense the outgoing tide, so Paul had to over 20oC and not too windy. of deja-vu, conditions were too return again in a few weeks time to On Tuesday the swell forecast calm and it looked unlikely that complete the surfing components. I indicated less than 1m from the the assessment would go ahead. was lucky enough to get my surfing south. Looking good, not too scary. Then on the Thursday, there was skills signed off on the previous On Saturday morning, we arrived a potential window of opportunity assessment and can now sign on at the beach to be greeted with a on the Saturday afternoon with as Grade 3 on those pre-trip logs. perfect morning for a paddle, but northeasterly winds forecast to pick Personally, the journey to Sea Skills Adrian and Harry were frowning. up to around 20 knots. Adrian made has helped improve my skills and Not rough enough to qualify for Sea the call - and we were on. has given me a lot more confidence Skills. So, Ruby and I completed the on the ocean. It has also highlighted theory component and we made the In the morning we headed that after 30 years of paddling there most of the day with more training out around Lion Island for is still a lot to learn, and I haven’t that highlighted more practice was the navigation exercise and stopped yet. I’m very thankful for required with edging and re-entering demonstrated towing on the way. the club members that I’ve been and rolling. We would however Having been 300m off last time fortunate to paddle with that have have to return to do our assessment with the positon fix on the water, I provided encouragement along the on another day with more testing took more care this time and used way, for running training sessions conditions. a couple of handy transits to lock in a fix within 78m of the plotted and providing honest advice on The upside of this was that it Latitude / Longitude location. shortcomings and improvements. provided time to complete the Definitely good enough for an If you are looking for a challenge for other components of Sea Skills alert to the emergency services, if 2018, then why not aim to get Sea that were not immediately obvious required, and easier using transits Skills? We are lucky enough to have (to me!), being two overnight than messing around adjusting a great club with members who can camping trips to different locations bearings for magnetic variation on help you along the way. Remember and to write up a trip plan. Adrian the water. After lunch at Lobster though that it is a journey and you kindly offered to assist and lead Beach, we headed out to sea will need to keep your log book up a trip out to Broughton Island for and found some bumpy water off to date, go on some camping trips camping trip No 1. The first two Box Head to demonstrate rescue and learn skills that will give you attempts were thwarted by 4m skills. As forecast the wind picked more confidence and help to keep swells and strong wind warnings, up in the afternoon to give Adrian you safe on the water. but fortunately third time lucky, we the chance to put us through our had great weather and a fantastic paces with boat control. For those trip. That left camping trip No 2 to complete. I’m not normally a fan of solo paddling, but sometimes you just have to seize the opportunity when it arises and one weekend in July, conditions were perfect, light winds and swell less than 0.5m. The training completed so far had given me the confidence to head out on my own to a local spot that met the criteria of having no road access for an unsupported trip. There were a few more people and dogs on the beach than anticipated, who had a bit of a stare and a sniff at a strange kayaker, but hey, camping trip No 2 completed. With all the pre-requisite training, camping trips and written reports completed, the assessment was

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 8

Navigation training weekend

Beth Symonds took part and pored over charts. Lots of to add some features to the paddle in the navigation training tools – protractors, dividers and home we were set for a great day weekend put on in July compasses of various types were out. this year. shared and test driven. The morning was fun – bit of a Morning and afternoon tea was treasure hunt on water. Bit of a Even the Jimmy’s Beach caravan excellent thanks to Geoff and Ruby. treasure loss too, as pencils, charts park receptionist was surprised that and instructions slipped out of the first day of a kayaking weekend We prepared our charts ready for reach of inexperienced hands and didn’t require kayaks. As students Sunday ahead of time. Some of the off kayak decks. Yes ‘mea culpa’ in we had received some pre-reading tools used for navigation are much this respect, apologies again Team and brought along our compasses better used before getting in the Cook! and calculators. The Saturday of our kayak. As a team member told me– navigation training weekend was ‘Dividers and dry bags just don’t go At the end of the morning we classroom based. The trainers had together!’ approached lunch by finding a put their packing skills to good use transit and ‘aiming off’. Despite and managed to arrange seating for 8am Sunday and we met at our a combined current and wind 11 students within the cabin to view calculated starting point, good that impacting by more than 10 knots the presentations. we all got that right! the exercise had us find a location within a few metres and cruising on Topics covered included maps, Conditions were great. There was into lunch. charts, aids to navigation, tides enough in the wind to challenge and even a little weather. Teams us and our emerging navigation The lunch break at Nelson Bay was of Cook, Bligh and Flinders added skills without being overwhelming. welcome giving an opportunity for an element of competition to the Reports from Williamtown gave a break and some food. It was also training. It also enabled us to assist average wind speed of 18-20 knots time for route planning, calculating and learn from each other. As teams throughout the day with gusts up to current impacts and sharing team we took bearings, plotted locations 22 knots. With low tide due at 13.59 tasks for the afternoon.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 9

The return journey included Our results were impressive, It is good to realise that plotting a paddling an estimated one measuring 1km travel to within 10%, position to within 200m of our actual kilometre, identifying location estimating position on water within position in a broad expanse of water using a combination of transits and approximately 200m. Russ’s results would enable a search to find us should a need arise. bearings, and navigating a route to though were more impressive as he rapidly and accurately calculated avoid sand bars emerging in the low All in all a great set of challenges position and distance. It was great tide. Tourist boats and a ferry added and fun day on the water, with total to get his highly practical tips. distance of approximately 21km. a wild card element, as we tried to These were especially relevant paddle on a bearing and paddle while on the water as he could point Thanks again to Adrian, Russ, for a set time to measure distance out landmarks and his methodology Caoimhin and Campbell for putting while allowing for them looming from a kayak. There is definitely a this on. towards us! ‘knack’ to go with the theory.

Left to right: Team Cook doing their theory; Team Flinders on the beach (Images - Adrian Clayton); and Team Bligh on the water (Image - Karen Withers)

Fingal Bay Holiday Rental - 20% off for club members

Bucket list Weekend break or stay longer The deal - Paddle around the islands - On the beach at Final Bay, Port 20% off advertised rates for NSW - Anna Bay for a coffee Stephens Sea Kayak Club members outside of school holidays - Kayak in Port Stephens - Walk to the water Go to the booking website or contact - Walk in Tomaree National Park - 2 double beds, 2 singles and 2 bunks [email protected] - Hot outside shower! www.holidaysportstephens.com.au/accommodation/57

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 10

Rules of the Sea

Megan Pryke takes us can further reduce visibility. Bright options in regards to choice of through a very useful colours, a flag, or some reflective where to be compared to many summary of some of the tape may assist other skippers in larger boats. seeing you or your kayak. A group “Rules of the Sea” for When crossing a boating channel of kayakers is more likely to be think of it as a road. Considerations sea kayakers. Images by seen so in busy waterways keep Megan unless marked. together. Use appropriate lights for where to cross a channel include at night so you can be seen and crossing at a narrow section and The golden rule for boaters is to consider having a spare torch in the visibility of boating traffic. avoid a collision, thus the existence available in case of an unexpected Channel markers provide a visual of International Regulations for late return. reference for a regroup place and Preventing Collisions at Sea a clearer channel boundary. Cross For larger boats, the give way rule (Colregs). Kayaks are passive channels as a group, aiming to for two oncoming vessels is to waterway users without the grunt cross behind larger vessels and do pass to the right (or port to port). not dilly-dally. Kayakers trickling of motors or power generated by An excellent way to communicate a massive sail. Instinctively we across a boating channel can be your intentions to an oncoming boat annoying for the skippers of less understand that large and more is to turn to the right. When side responsive, larger boats. powerful boats can be a hazard on your kayak will be more visible, and common sense does a great and by heading right, you indicate In busy ports monitor VHF channel job at guiding us. Although we do you understand the boating rules. communications and be aware not need a boating licence, at times Monitor motorised boats and yachts of additional restrictions that may an understanding of some of the as they travel at different speeds apply for kayakers. Often these maritime rules can help to predict to a paddler, cannot turn or stop limitations are communicated by how larger boats behave, and to get quickly and the skipper may not see signs or boating markers. When along with the many other waterway you. Be aware of yellow markers paddling with less experienced users. The key things are to have set up for yacht races, or pilot and paddlers, consider allowing having clear intentions, keep a lookout and tug boats heralding the arrival of a enough time for the group to understand visibility issues. larger ship in or out of port. cross considering time needed if a Where are you? Visibility Issues All rules are trumped by doing paddler capsizes. The group can only travel as fast as the slowest Sea kayaks are low and narrow. whatever it takes to avoid a paddler. We are a speck compared to many collision. In a worse case scenario, boats and often just not visible. Just getting attention by moving your Larger boats use horns to signal because you can see a larger boat paddle may help; or for a last intentions. One short blast indicates does not mean the boat’s skipper ditch effort maybe use a flare, an intention to turn to starboard can see you. If you cannot see frantic waving and whistles or VHF (right) and two short blasts turning communication. a friendly, human face, it is best to port (left). Three blasts are to assume as a kayaker that you Boating channels are not a good stopping or reversing, and five or are invisible. Rain, sun-glare, fog, place to practice skills. As kayakers more short blasts means “I am yachting sails and other factors with a shallow draft, we have unsure of your intentions”.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 11

Identifying Boating Channels: Lateral Markers TIP for remembering these rules: Lateral markers are the most The words in the left column of the common boating markers, being the red and green ones, indicating the table have fewer letters than the left and right side of a designated words in the second column route. Australia is part of region A, the American continents part of region B. Often there is only one marker or one type of marker present. Thus you may need to identify channel markers in isolation. If you are red Left Right When on a boat looking towards its bow, the left side - green colour blind the good news of the boat (or sea kayak) is known as port, and the is that lateral markers usually have right side is known as starboard. unique shapes being cans and Red Green Relates to the colour of lateral markers and the cones. Larger markers are used flashing lights at night. Also the colour of the left and for major channels such as those right lights on larger boats. marking the way into shipping ports. See the table for an explanation of Port Starboard Terms used for red and green lateral markers. the rules. Cans Cones Relates to the shape of lateral markers. As sea kayakers we may not need to be inside the boating channel, however, occasionally, due to topographical or other reasons, This rhyming sayings apply for region paddling inside a boating channel A for larger boats that have port and is the better option for us. Do not starboard lights: impede a vessel that has to use a boating channel. RMS recommend • Green to Green when going upstream that kayakers keep to the starboard • Green to Red when seas ahead side (i.e. right side) of a boating channel if you have to use one and Note that for NSW coastal estuaries that are travelling in the same direction the flow is usually associated with tidal of the larger boats. It could also be current rather than a stream. However, a good idea for kayakers to be in up harbour or into port does not rhyme single file. Remember that large as well as upstream. In some places you vessels can be moving faster than need a map to determine which direction they appear and cannot easily turn is up or downstream especially on inland so give them plenty of room. lakes.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 12 13

Cardinal Markers There are four markers that indicate that deep or safe water is located in the quadrant to the north, east, south or west of the marker. In areas that can be impacted by swell and seas, sea kayakers may need to heed the cardinal marker, as a submerged object may create unexpected, breaking waves when a wave set arrives. Cardinal markers use two black cones usually on top of a black An isolated danger marker near South Head in and yellow coloured pole and a Harbour (hence the surf) (Image - Rob Mercer) white light with a particular flashing sequence for night navigation. The cones for North and South NORTH cardinal markers point up and down Two cones point up respectively. ‘E’ast is ‘E’gg shaped, Pole: Black top, Yellow bottom and ‘W’ is ‘W’ine glass shaped. Continuous flash Other markers EAST Top cone up, bottom cone down Special markers are yellow, Pole: black mid section (yellow top and at night they have a yellow and bottom) flashing light. They can be a tide Three flashes gauge marker, a swimmers area buoy or other buoy indicating a SOUTH restricted or special area. These Both cones pointing down yellow markers can also act like Pole: yellow top, black bottom lateral markers, and when they Six flashes and one long flash do so they may be can or cone in WEST shape. Left: Sanctuary zone marker; Cones are pointing at each other. Right: Lateral marker (Image Isolated Danger Markers are - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Pole: yellow mid section (black top like cardinal markers, your need Lateral_mark#Region_A) and bottom) to avoid one depends on local Nine flashes knowledge and conditions. If you Think of a clock face, as this helps don’t have local knowledge, avoid to remember the white light flashing them. There are a few Safe Water sequence. Continuous light = 12 = Marks in Sydney harbour that are North, 3 flashes = East = 3 o’clock, 6 usually a good place for kayaking flashes = South = 6 o’clock et cetera. regroups.

Cardinal markers at the Sow and Pigs; Right: South cardinal marker (Images - Adrian Clayton)

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 12 13

Ferries and ships Hans Schmidt watches a looming Major Ports, ferry terminals and P&O liner (Image - Adrian Clayton) naval bases often have additional restrictions associated with regulating commercial traffic and keeping busy waterways safe. You must not impede ship or ferry traffic. Ferries in general, particularly the public transport ferries around Sydney’s waterways, have the right of way along the set routes and timetables. All ferries have a yellow flashing light when operating. For cable ferries it is more obvious that the boating channel is closed, passing behind has the additional hazard of submerged cables. The exact route of a ferry can vary with conditions; for example, the Manly ferry will swing wider when there is significant swell In open seas ships move fast and If both you and the ship are impacting the harbour verges. often on auto pilot. Larger yachts travelling at a constant speed and Look out for ferries arriving and can often be seen on a ship’s radar; angle you can estimate a possible departing and give way. As with all sea kayakers are not. There are collision course over time. Take larger boats, aim to pass ferries websites and Smart Phone / Tablet note of a compass bearing to the behind the stern. Ferries and ships apps that track shipping movements ship from when you first see it over should give three horn blasts when and locations. Sea kayakers will find the horizon and do the same 15 heading astern as they leave a wharf, such tools impractical or difficult to minutes later. If the angle has not however some ferries have for and aft use on the lively water. Shipping changed, you are on a possible engines thus do not need to reverse channels shown on charts can be collision course thus you may need out. Be aware of pilot and tug boat substantially wider than indicated to alter your course. If the angle has movements as these can herald the and there can be several ships changed, it is likely that the ship arrival of a large ship coming into the in a day along the same course. harbour. will either pass behind or in front of Due to the size of a ship they are you. Keep monitoring the ship, as VHF channel 13 is often used often visible when they are several it could alter its course or speed. kilometres away. They are large for Port movements. You may If you still feel that a collision is also check Internet sites such and are travelling quicker than they possible you may consider issuing as Port authorities https://www. appear to be when seen from far a VHF Securite message or flare or portauthoritynsw.com.au/ for away. Remember that ships can contact the Port authority. scheduled departure and arrival come from behind you and they are times of ships for NSW larger ports. fast. Monitor them.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 14 15

Lights at Night Sector lights are set up at one location and will indicate green, At night larger boats should display white or red depending on the Port (red) and Starboard (green) lights that are shielded from rear divergence of the transit line. If view. If you can see both the green displaying white, the boat is in and red light a boat could be a safe zone or sector. If red, the coming straight towards you. At the boat should turn to starboard. If stern of a ship or ferry, there is a displaying green, the boat should white light. A white light could also turn to port. be a yacht. Safe Distances As kayaks are narrow, a red and Powerboats should keep 30 to 60 green light would be confusing for where and who you are paddling with and the conditions expected. metres from a kayak and travel at other boating users as the lights 6 knots when within 30 metres of a would be too close and low to the What works well is to have a stern light or a hat light (on your head) kayak. This is still roughly twice the water. The main reason for needing speed of a sea kayak. Faster boats a light is so that other users can plus a strobe light attached to your travelling in the same direction can see you. When kayaking a torch lifejacket in case you are separated overtake you on either side. must be carried between sunset from your kayak. In the event of and sunrise as a minimum. The capsizing you can then turn it on. Scuba divers often use flagged RMS has issued further guidelines A head torch is a good backup and buoys (usually blue and white) to (not rules) for paddlers: “If paddling will help you pack away your gear alert other boating traffic of the in restricted visibility or between when you land. presence of a diver down under sunset and sunrise, exhibit two all the flag. Larger boats are required round continuous or flashing white to keep 60 metres away from lights, one attached to the canoe swimmers and divers who are or kayak at or near the forward end displaying a dive flag. Although and the other one attached at or kayaks may be an exception, near the aft end. The light is to be please be considerate and paddle visible in clear conditions from a wide around a diving or swimming distance of one kilometre and may group. be masked so as not to interfere with the vision of the occupants, Other power vessel’s, including provided at least one light is visible personal water crafts (jet skis), from any direction.” Identifying Boating Channels at should keep 30 metres from kayaks Night when travelling at more than For sea kayaks a flashing white light 6 knots. Once they are 60 metres can be confusing for other boaters Lighthouses have been around for away the recommended speed is who may think you are a navigation hundreds of years. Each lighthouse 10 knots. Despite the rules, you feature, especially if you are not has a particular flashing sequence may still need to be wary and moving quickly. A light shining on so that mariners can identify which expect the unexpected. Ian Fletcher the front deck can spoil your night lighthouse it is from the sea. Once recounted a tale of a rouge tinny vision. closer to a harbour other lights will in Port Hacking. You can find it on help boaters take a safe line. If paddling in a group at night, a our the club’s website at: https:// light is important so that your mates At night port lateral markers flash nswskc.wordpress.com/2010/12/28/ can see you. If there are multiple red, and starboard lateral markers expect-the-unexpected/ lights on you and your kayak, it flash green to indicate where a makes it difficult to count group boating channel is. The overriding rule is to avoid a members versus counting one light collision and keep safe. Lead lights are two lights, often for each paddler. A light on the stern triangular, which when lined As sea kayaks are designed to may occasionally be shielded from up indicate a safe transit into a handle waves a bit of boat wake is view by your body. An elevated light harbour. The rear lead light will not of great concern. For beginner is recommended for sea conditions point down, and the closer light up. kayakers or those paddling without for better visibility, either on your The colour of these lights varies a a large wake can be head or raised above the deck. (e.g. orange, blue). They are often hazardous, especially if the wake There is no particular ideal or set up for commercial reasons or at builds up over shallows or bounces prescribed product; it depends on major ports (eg. fishing ports). against a sea wall or cliff.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 14 15

Shoreline fishing occurs along cliffs Gareth waiting behind a starboard marker (rock fishermen), harbours, bays to pass astern of a boat in the boat channel. and also along our surf beaches. Fishing lines are difficult to see and can also be expected near anchored boats or even trailing off moving boats. Beware of possible entanglement with fishing lines and the possible nasty, barbed hook at the end. There are special considerations for landing a sea kayak in a surf zone. Avoid other beach users or be prepared to deliberately capsize your sea kayak to reduce the speed if you are being pushed by wave on a collision course with a swimmer or surfer. Conclusion References: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/ maritime/safety-rules/other-boating/ Sharing our enjoyment of the sea http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/ -and-kayaks.html with all other waterway uses is maritime/safety-rules/rules- https://nswskc.wordpress. best achieved by having a friendly regulations/big-ships-small-boats. com/2010/12/28/expect-the- attitude and understanding their html perspective. Be friendly and unexpected/ acknowledge other users when http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/ “Sea Kayaking Illustrated: A Visual you can, as they have just as maritime/safety-rules/rules- Guide to Better Paddling” by John much right as you to be there. regulations/navigation-marks-and- Robison, 2003 Ragged Mountain Always be prepared to take action signs.html Press to avoid collision and expect the unexpected. Saltiest submission WINNER Rob Mercer reported really planning ahead for next winter. enjoying Steve Hitchcock’s These are Enth Degree socks, Rock ‘n’ Roll Rock Gardening. so the best of the best. They fit He found it “a short but engaging nicely, feel warm and are definitely account of a good learning lesson watertight and dry in my bedroom. laced with generous amounts of Thanks to Mark, Rob and EK challenge and fun”. for choosing my article. It was a pleasant and very unexpected Steve says “I liaised with Mark surprise. and decided to spend my winning voucher on a pair of warm dry Don’t forget, another winner will be socks. Yes, I know it’s summer selected from this edition. May the and not now required, but I’m saltiest submitter succeed!

EXPEDITION KAYAKS Drop in anytime from 0830 to 3/185 Port Hacking Road, Miranda, NSW 2228 1800 Monday to Fridays. Phone (612) 9559 8688 or mob 0417 924 478

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 16 Hamstrings and Kayaking Cath Nolan attempts to Function Keeping your left leg and knee straight, slowly raise your right leg straighten us out. The hamstring muscles play an up straight (keeping your knee important role in activities such as straight). Measure the angle (eye As we all know, sitting for long walking, running, climbing stairs and periods in a kayak can become jumping. The hamstrings function to balling will do), then lower your uncomfortable. It requires not only bend your knees and work with the right and repeat on the other side. good core and back strength but gluteal muscles (buttocks) to move A normal value is somewhere also adequate hamstring length. your hips backward. This is an between 80-90 degrees. I tend to In fact, inadequate hamstring important combination of actions to use 75 degrees as my cut off for length can be a key contributor to perform the sit to stand function (eg. ‘tight hamstrings’ to start some lower back pain in kayaking. Tight hopping out of your kayak). They action to increasing their length. hamstrings can tilt your pelvis also rotate your lower leg inwards backwards, flattening out your or outwards and work eccentrically lower back and causing unwanted to straighten the knee eg. kicking compression. action. Anatomy In kayaking, the hamstrings The hamstrings are a group of three are repeatedly shortened and large muscles that run along the lengthened to flex and extend your back of your thighs. They extend knee as you push off and relax on from the bottom of your pelvis the footplate in forward stroke. In (ischial tuberosity or ‘sit bones’) particular they help produce hip to the top of the tibia and fibula extension in forward stroke and of the lower leg at the back of knee flexion on the opposite side. your knee. They include the semi- If your hamstrings are tight, it might How does tight hamstrings affect membranosus, semi-tendinosus, be hard for you to straighten your kayaking? both of which attach to the inside knee fully and/or keep your trunk of the back of the knee, and the in a slightly forward position during Decreased hamstring length can biceps femoris which attaches to forward stroke. impact on your ability to sit up the outside of the back of the knee. How do you tell if your straight and/or slightly forward in the They are innervated by the sciatic hamstrings are tight? kayak. This is because tightness in nerve that originates in the lower the hamstrings will tilt your pelvis back. For most of us it will be slightly backwards instead of obvious in the kayak slightly forwards, flattening out the if your hamstrings are normal curve in the lower back. This tight. It will be hard to sit posture will make it hard to reach on your sit bones in your forward for your optimum catch in seat and straighten your forward stroke. It will also decrease knees due to tightness in your ability to access your core the back of the leg and muscles during kayaking and lead behind the knee. To sit to overworking your back muscles. up straight you will likely Over a sustained period, it can also have to flex your knees lead to an increased compressive to be comfortable. load to the discs between your To see if your vertebrae in your lower back and in hamstrings are tight, some cases cause some irritation to try this simple test. the sciatic nerve that exits the lower Lie on your back with back and passes down the back of your legs out straight. your thighs (sciatica).

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 17

What can I do to improve seated at the position of your footplate and posture in the kayak? back support in this new position as well as your knee contact with Increase hamstring length the boat. Raising your seat height Stretching on a regular basis can can affect your stability in the boat, improve your hamstring length and so experiment with temporary contribute to relieving symptoms adjustments before getting a new of lower back pain in kayaking. seat or modifying your existing seat. My favourite hamstring stretch is laying on your back with your legs Other hamstring conditions in out straight. Have a belt handy and kayaking place it around your foot. Holding Although I have not heard of on to the ends of the belt, slowly too many hamstring injuries in lift your leg up straight until you kayaking, there is one condition feel a comfortable stretch in your worth mentioning and that is Give a man a fish and he’s hamstring. You shouldn’t feel pain. hamstring tendinopathy, which is got food for the day Hold for 30 seconds, lower your leg literally a pain in the butt! Hamstring and repeat the other side. Repeat tendinopathy is characterised Teach a man to fish...... three times each side. by deep buttock pain, which is Then he has to buy lures, worsened by long periods of sitting. Those people that have a history of braid, leader, knife, braid hamstring tears in sport are more cutters, landing net, prone to hamstring tendinopathy, lip grips, fishing hat, 10 particularly where a previous tear pocket PFD, graphite reel, has not healed properly. insulated fish bag, gapes, fish finder, kayak, trolley, Tendinopathies are aggravated paddle, carbon fibre rods, by repetitive actions where the gaff, rod leash, paddle hamstring tendon is repeatedly leash, sinkers, hooks swivels, irritated eg. sitting in a kayak for wire trace... long periods, running, or when you flex your hip eg. bending down to Contributed by Bron Davies Experiment with seat height tie up your shoes. In some cases Image: Mark Hempel happy with hamstring tendinopathies can his catch Raising your seat height to help tilt also produce sciatic pain down your pelvis forward can be a simple the back of the thigh due to the and strengthening, however they do and easy thing to do to take some development of scar tissue in the take time to settle. load off your lower back muscles. hamstring tendon. If you think you You can test this out at home by have a hamstring tendinopathy, Well that’s all for now. Happy sitting on the floor with your legs out best to have it checked by a health paddling and I hope this helps with straight (and knees straight). Check professional, as it can be treated keeping you comfortable on the if you are sitting on your sit bones, with tissue mobilisation, stretching water! with a slightly forward lean, or are your sit bones tilting under with a rounded back. If the latter, prop a cushion underneath your sit bones and see what difference it makes to the tilt of your pelvis and curve of your lower back. Go back and sit in your kayak and have a look at your pelvic tilt; do you need a little more height under your sit bones to tilt your pelvis anteriorly? Experiment with a small height adjustment (washer or hand towel under each butt cheek). You may then need to look

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 18

Russ Swinnerton offers a Fitting and rigging your sail It’s important that the two cleats few Freetips on keeping your as the breezefor your uphaul and main sheet – Most sails come with fitting usually cam cleats, or clam/jam kayak upright when sailing. instructions, and there are plenty of cleats – are close enough to the resources on the web for assistance. cockpit to be within easy reach, but ‘Why don’t we write an article for But broadly, you’ll want to set your don’t get in the way of your paddling Salt about kayak sailing?’ we asked mast foot on the centreline, close stroke or impact your knuckles every ourselves, after enjoying a great enough to you so you can reach the stroke. Position them on the boat in Matt Bezzina-led sailing session mast-head with the sail down to stow the water, and try paddling, before at the last R’n’R in Batemans Bay. it on deck, and far enough away you drill holes in your pride and joy. Some who participated had done so the sail doesn’t interfere with quite a bit of kayak sailing, and paddling when it’s down. A summary of rigging fundamentals: some had sailed other things apart Strengthen the parts of the deck • Life will be easier in a boat with a from kayaks. It was a great way to taking extra stress, and waterproof rudder. share our experiences and rigging the holes you drill. Check online • Strive for quick deploy and solutions – and reminded us all how resources listed for tips and tricks. recovery arrangements. much fun it can be to mess around in • Develop a quick means of securing sailing boats. Do kayaks need a keel or centreboard for sailing? Nope. the sail on deck in a crisis. So here we are, finally writing about Sailing boats need them to • Set your shrouds twang-tight when it. And what’s not to like? Propulsion help them stop going sideways the mast is raised. assistance, as free as the wind…just (centreboards), or capsizing the thing, on a long day in a heavily (ballasted keels). But sea kayaks are laden kayak. Sometimes, when the Adrian Clayton and Ruby Ardren long, and all that hull provides plenty wind is piping in, and you’re starting sailing into Sydney Harbour of resistance to leeway or drift. And (Image - Caoimhin Ardren) to fly – then it’s a pretty good thing to we’re used to keeping them upright, do for its own sake. so you don’t need a ballasted keel to Below is a guide to the parts of a keep you flat. But a little edging goes sail. a long way.

Head

Leach Luff

Boom Tack

Clew Foot Forestay/uphaul Main Sheet

Backstay Shroud/sidestay

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 19

• Use quick-release cleats (cam block or a cleat, either tie a figure- With aerodynamic lift on your sail cleats or jam cleats) for the main of-eight knot in the end, or secure (force of sail in diagram above), the sheet and forestay/uphaul with a bowline to a deck bungie. faster you go, the faster the relative wind (the wind you feel) becomes, • Rig the sail to fly downwind when So how does it all work? main sheet is released (ensure and the more lift you’ll develop, and your shrouds are connected to OK, let’s give sailing a try. the faster you will go. mast low enough to not prevent Let’s start with a bit of theory – jump When sailing directly downwind, sail rotation). to the next section if you’re already (your sail is not working as an • Make sure you can reach across the principles. aerofoil) so you’re subtracting boat speed from wind speed. The faster everything you need from the Sails generate a driving force in two cockpit – sheet, forestay/uphaul you go, the slower the relative wind. ways: and masthead. Maximum aerodynamic lift is • From drag alone – putting a sail • Use the smallest fittings possible, obtained when the sail is angled so in the way of the wind, so that the so they do less damage to you or the flow on the back of the sail is wind pushes the sail downwind (as the boat when flailing around. just starting to break away from a it would push an open umbrella). • Use Spectra or Dyneema cordage streamline flow. You see this when • Aerodynamically – by a flow of air for stays – stronger than steel, but the luff (the part of the sail closest to across the aerofoil of the sail. Sails, a lot easier to handle. the mast) is just starting to ripple. It’s like aeroplane wings, develop lift the same as an aircraft wing stalling • Put a short length of shock-cord and drag, with the component – when the angle of attack increases into the sheet (the rope you pull of lift along the centreline of the to the point where streamline flow to set the sail’s angle) for shock- kayak moving you forward. And over the wing is lost, then lift is lost absorbing, to help the sail deal with the component that’s not along the and the aircraft falls out of the sky gusts. centreline will push you sideways – (briefly, until you restore smooth • For a rope that passes through a and may try to capsize you. airflow).

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 20 21

Rather than giving you an IKEA to upend you. You can usually guide to sailing, let’s just flag a see gusts approaching on the couple of highlights: water’s surface, so that helps you • You can deploy your sail with the anticipate them. wind from any direction – but the • To recover the sail, putting the wind anxiety will be least on your first forward of the beam will help the few attempts if you’re pointing mast blow back within reach when into wind, so the sail won’t fill until you let go the forestay/uphaul. you’re ready. If turning into the Grab the mast, and shove it under wind is not convenient, make sure a deck bungie while you sort out your main sheet is completely your lines. loose, so the sail rotates freely. • Kayaks do capsize, and so we • When starting out, a broad or need a strategy to recover with beam reach (wind at right angles sail deployed. The drill should be to direction your kayak is pointing) to release the sheet so the sail is best to try first – where the wind swings free, and try to roll up. If is directly behind you and your that doesn’t work, wet exit, secure sail’s boom close to right-angles to the sail on deck, and try a re-enter the centreline of the kayak. The lift and roll. You can use a paddle-float from the sail is then aligned with to assist, if necessary. It’s worth the centreline, putting all its force practising, to see how much extra resistance to righting your furled into boat speed, and the capsize Does a kayak with a sail up become a moment is small. sail causes. Better to find that out vessel propelled by sail, in accordance just off the beach on a sunny day, • The sail will put a lean on your with the collision regulations? Not really than in a howling nor’easter when kayak. Respond with edging, – a sailing vessel is ‘any vessel under you’re miles offshore. and use a skimming low brace sail, provided that propelling machinery, if you need it. Try this either on Resources if fitted, is not being used.’ That paddle the windward or leeward side Flat Earth Sails https:// in your hands is being used, so that – opinions vary, but edging and flatearthkayaksails.com.au/ makes you a vessel propelled by oars. bracing to windward works best. In any case, you’re the smallest thing Douglas Wilcox sail fitting blog post: out there, so follow the rules in Part • The wind never blows consistently https://seakayakphoto.blogspot.com. B – Steering and sailing, Section I, – it’s always varying in strength, au/2010/07/flat-earth-kayak-sails- (Conduct of vessel in any condition of which varies the force trying fitting.html visibility) and avoid everyone.

Sailing session run by Matt Bezzina at this year’s Rock ‘n’ Roll at Batemans Bay puts a diverse range of sails on display (Image - Ruby Ardren)

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 20 21

Glossary of kayak sailing terms Backstay The stay running astern from the mast that stops the mast falling forwards. Block Sailor’s term for a pulley. Fit the smallest you can find. Centreboard A flat plate fitted to small yachts and dinghies, to reduce leeway (or sideways drift). Not needed in kayaks. Cleat In a kayak, we use a quick-release cleat – a cam, jam or clam cleat. Clew The point of the sail where the sheets attach. Close-hauled Sailing ‘on the wind’, as close as you can point into the wind. Foot The bottom side of the sail, running from tack to clew. Forestay The stay from the bow to the mast, usually fitted as an uphaul that lets you raise the mast from the cockpit. Gybe To alter course, putting the stern through the wind, to bring the wind onto the other side of the boat. Head The point of the sail at the top. Leach The side of the sail from head to clew. Leeway Sideways drift caused by the wind. Luff The side of the sail closest to the mast, from tack to head. Reach 1. Sailing off the wind. Can be either shy (with the wind forward of the beam), beam (wind on the beam) or broad (wind abaft the beam). 2. The sound you make when seasick. Run Sailing with the wind astern (dead square), or close to. Starboard tack Boom out to port. This usually means the wind is on your starboard side (unless you’re running dead downwind). This matters when yachting, because a yacht on the starboard tack has right of way over a yacht on the port tack (when its boom is out to starboard). Sheet The line that controls the angle of boom. The sheet and the uphaul are the two lines you fiddle with when sailing. Try to stop them getting into a tangle on your spray deck, or trailing over the side. Shrouds or Stays The lines that hold up your mast. Tack 1. (n) The lower corner of the sail closest to the mast. 2. (n) An indication of which point of sailing you’re on, port or starboard. 3. (v) To alter course, putting the bow through the wind, to bring the wind onto the other side of the boat (putting you about onto the other tack). Weather helm A tendency for the drive of the sail to try to turn the kayak into wind. Because we put sails on our foredecks we’re much more likely to suffer from lee helm – the tendency for the sail to turn you away from the wind, to maximise the capsize force. But our kayaks are usually long enough to resist. The hardest thing about kayak sailing is turning them at all!

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 22 Thingy in the water

Here was Barry Marshall, We approached Broughton from the after we cleared the point things thinking he was alone on western side and found very calm settled down for an enjoyable run the water... waters in the lee of the island. After back to Seal Rocks. By the time we passing through Con’s Cleft we beat arrived off Seal Rocks the wind had Last year I paddled to Broughton into the northerly wind (which had more west to it and the sun was Island for two nights with two friends actually increased) on our way to again shining brightly. the Little Poverty Beach campsite. from the north coast, John and It was only after Steve had arrived Steve. After consulting the BoM We spent two very enjoyable home and looked at the photos he we decided to paddle south from days and nights there, leaving the had taken that he saw the ‘beasty’ Seal Rocks to take advantage of a decision on when to return til the that lurked under our boats - we 20 knot northerly wind and paddle following morning. The morning was were completely oblivious at the back with a 20 knot southerly which overcast with the forecast 20knot time. These photos were taken on had been forecast for the third day. southerly wind and swell increasing The wind stayed up all night and overnight. These conditions produce our way from Seal Rocks on the we launched into a choppy, messy confused seas with lots of bounce first day. The readers’ guess as to sea - at least until we rounded the in the harbour but the prospect of what it may be is as good as our point with its spectacular rocks. The paddling back with this wind at our own. A few years ago I had a metre sky cleared to a radiant blue and backs made us decide on leaving. long bull shark jump into my lap off the wind remained a constant stiff The exit out of the harbour around Wategos Beach at Byron Bay - I’m northerly which made for an easy the north-eastern side of Little very glad that this thing didn’t do the paddle southwards to Broughton. Broughton Island was exciting but same thing!

Thingy in the water at Seal Rocks (Image - Stephen Peryman)

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 23 The Coast Boast Adrian Clayton thanks all of Answers for the second round are: those who submitted entries Percent for the second round of The Location Answer correct Coast Boast. 7 Drum & Drumsticks viewed from Gumgetters Inlet, 91 Beecroft Peninsula At the halfway point of the challenge 8 Overlooking Mystics Beach (aka Minnamurra Beach) 55 and at the time of writing (and with a from the north with Stack Island clearly in view at left few more entries expected before the of picture deadline arrives) the competition is 9 Navigable limit of South West Arm, Port Hacking 91 pretty close -- only two correct answers separate the top six entries. We have 10 Approaching Sugarloaf Point (Seal Rocks) from the 82 two entrants (originally hailing from south the northern hemisphere!) who have 11 Gordons Bay, in between Coogee and Clovelly beaches 73 identified all locations correctly. 12 Standing off adjacent Point Stephens 91 In contrast to the first round, only three entries have been able to identify all six locations in the second round correctly. The pictures for Round Three appear on the next page with clues. High quality images and clues for each location will also appear on the Club’s website (accessed via The Coast Boast link appearing in the navigation bar on the left-hand-side of the home page). Thanks to those who submitted a picture for inclusion in the latest round. It’s a sure way of getting at least one location right! Send us your pics Any pictures used in the competition have to be taken in Please remember that your answer Members are encouraged an area in which the NSWSKC is to indicate from where the picture to submit photographs to has conducted an activity such was taken using whatever identifiable the competition coordinator as trips, training activities, Rock features you can see within it to do so. (thecoastboast@ ‘n’ Roll events or Navigation Also remember that all the locations nswseakayaker.asn.au) for Challenges – over the last have figured in a NSWSK Club activity consideration as being suitable five years. They should show within New South Wales during the for inclusion in the competition, an identifiable feature (even last five years. In other words, they fall however, acceptance of such though one might need to look pictures will be restricted to one within an easy day’s drive of Sydney. hard to find it!). Shorelines, per issue of Salt per contributor. significant rock formations (such Email your entries to the Acceptance of any submissions as islands, stacks, hollows, [email protected]. does not preclude the caves, arches, etc), land forms au. To be in contention for boasting contributor from including (dominant peaks, unusual rights and the $400 gift voucher from the location as one of his/her contours, ridgelines), buildings, Prokayaks we need to receive your answers. The same applies to training walls and signage are answers before the copy deadline (end examples of such features. any Club members who appear of February 2018) for the next issue of in any of the pictures. Salt.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 24

Location 13 Juicy crustaceans found here?

Location 14 Not to be confused with Point Upright

Location 15 The Reverend Spooner’s Park D _ _ _ _

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 25

Location 16 A skimpy string in the middle of a good old- fashioned Ozzie bush call will identify this bay location.

Location 17 Prominent peak on left-hand-side of this picture can be clearly seen when paddling along parts of the Illawarra and Batemans coasts. It bears 249oT from Location 17.

Location 18 2102 - ? ? Bay - 2106

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 26

Kayaking vs Boating – Why Do We Paddle? from a web cam. In this sense, going through the bush with a motorbike is better than driving through it and riding a pushbike is an even better experience. But in order to really enjoy the bush and be part of it, you will need to get onto your feet and do the walking. Let’s return to the water. In a larger boat, power boat or even in a beautiful sailing boat, similar to the analogy above you are Selim Tezcan contemplates community? The answers to this somehow restricted by the boat the real reasons we I guess are as diverse as each from experiencing the water. The and every one of us, if we were to choose to kayak. boat’s size and its make lay a explore the personal aspects of physical barrier between us and For many of us when we are kayaking and what it means to each nature. Their sheer size versus our confronted about our sea kayaking of us. In this respect each person’s relatively small bodies makes us activity, the response to why we reason for kayaking is unique and become ‘part of them’ hence we like kayaking so much is generally deserves a long write up in itself so become ‘the boat’. Boats isolate summed up by ‘it helps me to I won’t go there. I would instead try us by distancing us from the water explore the areas where it is not to examine the unique opportunity through physical space, and by accessible by boats or any other kayaking provides to experience the noise of the engine laying an means’. This phrase ‘lets me nature from the water level. auditory barrier, and the fumes explore the areas which are not In order to explain what it is that of the diesel engine polluting our accessible by boats’ seems to be makes sea kayaking a better sense of smell. They all get in the the most popular differentiating experience than boating, let me way us “being there”. I myself don’t reason given against boating take the example to the land first. even like wearing sunglasses, being in general to enjoy the same You could jump into your 4 x 4 and so purist about experiencing nature the way it is. I see them as another beautiful waters. But is it really drive through the bush and enjoy layer, altering my visual experience the accessibility that differentiates what the bush offers. But up until of nature - though I use them when the sea kayaking experience from you take that very step out of your required. power boating or sailing? car, your experience of nature is What is it that makes us joyfully really the experience of the bush One may say that a sea kayak do hours of hard labour and take through the windscreen of your is a boat too and can isolate us life threatening risks that surprise car. It is hardly any different from similarly. Let’s have a look at this. so many from the non-kayaking watching a ‘live feed’ of the bush When we attach our spray skirts to

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 27 our kayaks, our psychology alters dramatically. When the paddler enters into the kayak, something Krill Oil radically changes. At this very moment both the paddler and the kayak transform into a ‘new being’. The kayak is no longer an Whale Attractant ‘unintelligent, ‘powerless’, ‘lifeless’ We, Bronwyn (Miss An environmental permit from New floating object. And the paddler is South Wales Parks and Wildlife no longer limited by his/her body. Adventure) and Roy (Mr Service is not required in the Unlike a power boat or a sailing Ache) (Davies) find that Eastern states as any unconsumed boat which by their sheer physical premium quality krill oil is oil is carried by the Great South presence, engulf us and make us the best whale attractant Current to Tasmania. a ‘part of them’ , when we enter or burley. into our kayaks both paddler and Listen carefully to the whale songs. the kayak merge into one. This When you hear the two part call and unification is the ‘unique sea Ask any of the better chemists for response that bears an uncanny kayaking experience’. their premium brand largest size krill resemblance to the Whiskers oil capsules with at least 1000mg sardine cat food advertising jingle, Unlike any other water vehicle, potency, preferably organic, non you will know that at least one the kayak does not install another GM and fair trade sourced. whale has picked up the scent. ‘layer’ between us and nature. Provided that paddler and the boat It’s tricky but tie the capsule with a Do not be impatient and trail more are a good fit, the kayak becomes piece of string and attach the other than one krill oil capsule at a time. part of us, an extension of us that end behind the cockpit to your deck An overdose of high strength oil enables us to experience nature line or tow ring if you have one. The has a laxative effect. This can be directly without any ‘layers’. By length of the string is not critical. disconcerting as the response doing so it enables us to become However a minimum of five metres is rapid and unpleasant at close ‘part’, not apart from marine life. is recommended to give you some proximity. In this transformation, when all chance of protecting your latte from The attached photos illustrate the elements come together for the day, the inevitable splash. success we have had using krill oil. we experience blissful paddling moments and are merged with As long as you can stomach the We would like to get some feedback nature again. taste, for faster results bite a small from readers who have used krill oil portion off the top of the krill oil as whale attractant. Please send This I feel is the reason and the capsule before you release it over your replies to SALT magazine. joy most of us find ourselves the stern. Otherwise the gel casing trying to explain to others why we https://brondavies3.wordpress. takes several minutes to dissolve in com/2015/08/13/bronwyn-and-roy- paddle. Not so much the defensive cold sea water. rationalisation in which we try to adventurers/ justify our activity by stating ‘it Paddle west to east to disperse Below: Woolgoolga Whale Tail allows us to explore the areas not the krill oil slick across the whale (Image - Roy Davies) accessible by big boats’. migratory north south path. Opposite: Maitland Bay (Image - Selim Tezcan)

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 28 Hawkesbury Canoe Classic 2017 brought a warm night on Left: Meg Thornton is the river for the intrepid paddlers having a ‘Big Year’. completing this year’s Hawkesbury Right: Michael Taylor Canoe Classic. Ruby Ardren was finishes with a smile at the finish to welcome in the paddlers and capture their images when they were spent. These are their stories.

2017 Results Name Class Boat Time Graham Brown VVet40+ MRec1 Mirage 530 13:28:38 Adrian Clayton MVet70+ UN1 Valley Rapier 11:54:12 John Duffy MVet50+ UN1 Sladecraft Sonic 12:25:25 Neil and Megan Duffy BoB2 Mirage 730 15:29:57 Mark Sundin MVet40+ LREC1 Sladecraft SLR 10:05:27 Michael Taylor VVet40+ MRec1 13:42:47 Meg Thornton LVet60+ ORS1 Stellar SR 15:53:25 Stuart Trueman MVet50+ UN1 11:14:40

hydration tube and I progressed at the paddle blade - splock! That got Graham Brown a good pace. I stopped for a few the adrenaline going. I continued My Hawkesbury preparation was minutes at Sackville and my land on, vigilant in case the river attacked a bit spotty and my entry more an crew fixed the hydration setup. again. At the 42 km mark the GPS went on strike and I fell back on act of faith than having any rational About 5 kms past Sackville and with more primitive means of navigation. basis, but then again what’s rational the tide now in our favour, Adrian about paddling 100 kms in the dark! Clayton went steaming past in his After seven hours I arrived at My race started against the tide just Rapier looking like a man on a Wiseman’s Ferry at midnight. I before 5 pm. It had been a warm, still mission! felt good. I had a 30 minute stop, grabbed some hot food, resuscitated day at Windsor and good conditions I settled into a good rhythm, only the GPS and dodged the Sirens in prevailed into the evening and for to have my senses assaulted by a the physio tent before paddling on. most of the night. The first 30 kms silvery fish that launched itself at me. was uneventful apart from a kinked Freak timing saw me fend it off with Things went downhill rapidly after

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 29 Hawkesbury Canoe Classic

Left: Graham Brown survived everything the river threw at him; Right: Adrian looking a lot happier at the finish this year.

leaving Wiseman’s. Minor aches started to add up and at about Adrian Clayton 70 km, fatigue, a turning tide and My fourth tilt at the event and my I didn’t use a pre-entered GPS dehydration (as it turns out) made third finish. First time with an 11 track to find my way down the river, it a long, hard slog to the finish. (only just) in front of my name. A relying instead on the official HCC I got a bit confused and went on good night with none of the boat maps, with lateral markers added, an excursion somewhere around problems of earlier attempts, no attached to my spray skirt with checkpoint ‘O’ (near Spencer). It’s vicious mangroves to strip me of my Velcro. paddle and no damsel in distress to funny how the mind plays tricks Apart from the early stages of the distract me. in the middle of the night. The race, the wash riding opportunities approach to the finish line seemed Apart from a tidal flow more often I was hoping for did not present almost asymptotic and I was pleased agin than aiding, the conditions for themselves. Although I probably just to get there. the race were great. It was a balmy finished mid field, the most unusual night and I was able to paddle the thing about my race is that I didn’t After the event I found that I had full length in a short-sleeve rashie. have a kayak overtake me in used only two thirds of my planned The light in the depths of the night between and the fluid and nutritional intake. The was much better than the inky black finish 40 kilometres down river. kinked hydration tube and GPS experienced last year. There was There were some lessons to put failure (which meant losing track of a gentle wind sometimes helping, away for next time (should there time) were no doubt contributors. sometimes hindering and a brief be one) – the race day lunch menu downpour an hour out of Wisemans The Hawkesbury is truly a great being the standout. event and raises money for a very Ferry was not enough to dampen the spirits or cause discomfort. good cause. I’ll be back next year if I’m fit and able. See you there!

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 30 31

ebb tide which meant we could was about as likely as me publicly Mark Sundin stick to the middle of the river as admitting I’d wash ridden a frigging Hawkesbury Classic number nine darkness fell, and avoid the biffo of canoe. has been run and won, on one of last year’s race. I crossed the finish in 10:04 those rare years when the hardy I hit Wiseman’s (59km) in 5.50, and (unofficial at time of publication), souls plodding down the river had to felt that with a quick pit stop I was my best time by 10 minutes, in battle a pair of incoming tides. half a chance of getting under 10 a year that had a much stronger On the upside, the moon shone hours. Water bladder changed, a opposing flow than a helpful one. bright for a good portion of the huge, noisy, and I have to say heart I can’t imagine paddling a better night; replaced by a shining carpet warming cheer from all of my club race or getting more breaks, with no of stars. Combined with a warm and mates and I was away on the final ferry stops or unexpected pauses windless evening, this made it one 40km run to the finish. (like last year when I had to rescue of the classic nights out on the river, This year I rode the easing ebb to Mercer). one to savour and enjoy. about 75km, then latched onto a Congratulations to everyone Arriving a little late after a morning two man canoe that was absolutely who took part, whether you spent coaching Marley’s under 10’s smokin’ down the home stretch. finished, didn’t finish, or like my cricket team, rego and scrutineering This was one weird canoe, the stern mate Axeman, took a left turn at done, I relaxed and geared up paddler only about half a metre from Wiseman’s and did your own private for my 4.45pm start. Wandering the stern, leaving enough room 115km ‘Central McDonald Classic’. through the boats lined up around for their compulsory cyalume night the registration area is always stick, so for 15km I was literally It’s on again next year, it can’t fascinating. Ocean skis with stuff surfing these two mad buggers possibly be any harder than it was all over them, goo’s taped to decks, as the head tide built, being very this year, and it’s something you’ve bananas in footwells, drink bladders careful not to over run into the got to have a shot at if you’re fair under bungees, bluetooth speakers, kidneys of old mate in the back dinkum! you name it. seat. I have been teasing my mate Steve and his wife Kate about their Unlike previous years I waited until funny canoe thingy’s for years, and Neil Duffy the last minute to get on the water here I was wash riding Casey Jones and skipped straight to the front and Tonto along the final leg of the My daughter Megan had of the lineup. I figured this was 10 Classic, busting my arse to stay landcrewed for me for four classics. minutes I didn’t need to be on my with them. I’m so glad there were no She had done very little paddling backside in the kayak! photographers handy. when about 18 months ago she decided that she would like to From the gun the pace was frenetic, After they dropped me cold, I challenge herself and maybe paddle with almost all 100+ competitive battled along the final 10km, at one the Hawkesbury Classic. I agreed class paddlers going off together stage looking like I was heading for that I would do it in a double with into the teeth of a flooding tide. a 9:50, but watching the tide drain her, but she would need to spend From Sackville to Wiseman’s Ferry, my speed from 9 to 8.8 to 8.5 to some time actually paddling as well the leg that generally makes or 8.3, until I had 17 minutes left to go as getting fitter. breaks your race, we had a gentle 3km for a sub 10 hour finish, which At the time she was living in Sydney and so we encouraged her to join Lane Cove Kayak Club, which she did. So the training began - her in Sydney, me in Narrawallee. We got together and paddled Geoff and Cecelia’s double at Penrith one day - it worked okay. We also borrowed a boat from Lane Cove and did a 15 km Marathon series paddle which went very well. The next paddle was not so good with us pulling out after 10 km. Then Megan moved to Brisbane. She was still keen to give the Classic a go. The move to Brisbane

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 30 31

Stuart Trueman A few moments before the race a friend put two strips of tape on the kayak deck showing the times to each check point if I was to paddle the Hawksbury Classic in 10 hours. I stared at the numbers and wondered what I was expected to do about it if I fell short. My race plan was to go in the same direction as the others and keep a pace short of my normal race pace. Simple so I could remember it. I spent the hours before the race socialising in various queues while handing over money or frantically borrowing kit. There is a great atmosphere and I caught up with friends I don’t see too often while I overdosed on the free bananas and meant finding a new paddling 30 km down. I was really concerned water. club and a boat to use, which she about carrying on, but after a bit duly did. I continued training in of a break, some warm clothes Then we were off. Narrawallee mainly in a ski. We also and painkillers we got back on the The race plan worked well at the got Megan to join us at the end of water and headed off, not really start, I kept going in the same a Whitsundays trip to a) experience knowing what to expect. The tide direction as the others and was a multi day trip and b) to get some was now with us and helped us managing a pace. more paddling under her belt. struggle to Wisemans. We paddled for a bit, then took a short break to After a couple of hours the second My training was going okay, let the pain from rotating subside part of my plan started to fall apart. I with some paddling and a lot of then did it again. About 12.30 we noticed that although I was drinking crosstraining (constructing a new arrived at Wisemans where our regularly I hadn’t had a pee since patio area). Megan’s training was wonderful land crew sorted us out. the start, so I really started slinging less ideal but was happening. A massage from the Lane Cove it back every quarter hour, then We had organised to use group somehow got us back on whenever I could. I was getting Campbell’s 730 for the race. We got the water. One of the mantras that cramps in my arms, legs and together on the Friday - the race seems to hold true is that if you stomach, which I know is very, started on the Saturday - and set leave Wisemans you will finish. The very bad. I drank two litres before the boat up and paddled it together breaks got longer and the paddle the race, then to Wisemans I had for the first time. A half session and stints shorter but we still made put away five litres of water and we were good to go. progress down the river. So 15 Gatorade but had only managed hours 27 minutes after starting we one pee and had suffered badly Saturday rolled round and we got crossed the finish line, extremely from cramps. I had cooked myself. to the start at Windsor, through all elated. Megan had never paddled As the night got cooler I started the pre-race preparation and on to more than 20 km at a time before to recover but my pace dropped the water. Neither of us really knew the race; now she had done 100 km and never came back, the damage what to expect. We hoped to finish. in one go. had been done. I took my glasses The beginning went well, we were off as they didn’t help in the dark, ahead of our unofficial schedule For me my completion rate is now thankfully that meant I couldn’t see and feeling really good. Then my 50 percent, 3 of 6 finishes; this the times shouting at me from the ski training came back to haunt me. being the most satisfying because it kayak deck. My race plan had been The difference paddling a ski versus meant so much to Megan. made simpler, just keep going in the the 730 was causing my lower back A big thank you to our land crew, same direction as others. to become very sore. I managed to Rae, Patrick (son), Margaret nurse it to the first major check point (mother in law) and Dean (other I was plodding along in the dark, of Sackville. daughters partner). doing a head swivel to try and

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 32

work out if the shiny lights were a Off I go to meet Shannon Duffy, would have been embarrassing but check point when with a murmur of again. I had already passed my pride was still floating down the disbelief and disappointment I face Shannon three times and she would river after the first swim. planted myself into the river. %*#@ continue to beat me to the finish In the end my race plan was because I got lost in the final 6km’s! I quickly grabbed the important as relevant as the times stuck stuff as the current stole the rest, Each time I passed Shannon I had on the deck. Finishing was an then with one hand on the paddle to give the reason as to how come achievement, and that’s as it should and the other on the kayak I I was catching up again. “Cramps, be. pondered my situation watching fell in, fell in again, got lost…” It the other glow sticks paddle past, my situation hidden in the dark. I couldn’t get back in the kayak on my own, so I swallowed my last smidgen of pride and cried out. Rather more focused now I continued, but towards the end I hit a jelly fish with my paddle and that was all it took, in again. This time there were no other glow sticks so I swam ashore through dozens of jelly fish not too bothered about disturbing their quiet night. After dancing over slimy rocks using a dead branch to steady myself, I tried to pretend I was still in control of the situation as the wood gave way and I stuck it in my leg.

Beach carry on Broughton Island - story next page (Image - Cath Nolan)

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT Club Trips 33 Bi Broughton rthday

Cecilia Goon experienced advantage of the early morning lull outcome with the wind change some unforgettable in the wind and the ebbing tide.” that had not been predicted by the forecasters. surprises on her 73rd Each of the seven of us registered birthday! the contents of the email with some Deborah Cunneen: Standing on relief. It is well known that many top of the hill watching whales in On Wednesday, 20th September carefully planned trips have resulted the sea and occasionally looking 2017, Sharon Betteridge emailed in disappointing cancellations. That above to see three eagles hovering the following to the seven club was the beginning. overhead. Good company! members registered for the two- And at the end of the trip, this is (Hopefully Deb is not saying she night Broughton Island kayak what each of the group remembers enjoyed the company of the wildlife camping trip. had to say, in a nutshell. more than ours). “It’s looking pretty good for the Troy Dunn: Saturday was a great Cath Nolan: So much of the weekend. Both the BoM forecast day, which ended with my catching weekend was memorable but the and Meteye, as well as other a flathead on a fishing lula (my first jewel in the crown for me was Rob’s modelling sites are predicting lula experience, whatever Troy find of a sea tunnel on the Southern a gentle swell, some light N/ means by that). I also enjoyed going end of Little Broughton Island. A NW winds Friday, picking up on through the many small caves on beaut large opening with a clear Saturday and into Sunday. I still little Broughton. On Sunday, the view to the other side and only two intend to launch at 9.30am to take paddle home had an interesting smallish rocks to avoid made this

Cecilia and Troy explore Broughton Island (Image - Rob Mercer)

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 34

rock gardening adventure over in order to get on my first Broughton despite many of us suffering crystal waters a very joyful one. island trip. from hangovers of various sorts, including an overdose of mutton Paul Monaro: How extremely lucky As the individual recollections we were. Apart from a strenuous indicate, once on the journey, bird song. The circumnavigation return paddle into the wind on certain qualities of the journey was just awesome. The sun the way home, everything went surfaced that made it special for was shining, the swell lifting and about as well as it possibly could. me. Let me attempt to put forward lowering like a constant waltz and The conditions at the island were some. three leaders to guide and support perfect. Forecast strong winds us, what an overdose of good The Team didn’t come and we were able to fortune. We explored countless explore every cave we chose to. Together, we committed. Together caves. We paddled through the The expedition was a new frontier; we paddled, stopped and paddled, iconic Con’s Cleft, not just one way, travelling through the ocean and not in military precision but as a but this way and that way! living entirely out of my kayak in band of caring mates, making sure Yet, that is not all. The paddle such a unique nature reserve is that the last paddler was never round the island brought home alone or stressed. Together, we hard to put into words. This trip will two points that I need to observe aided and supported each other remain one of my lasting memories. in my paddling. First, commitment with the launching and landing. Geoff Dauncey: Having the time with every stroke. Rob debriefed Together, we wearily yet good- to explore the natural beauty of after one exercise through a naturedly carried the boats. In the island and its inhabitants, the turbulent channel. “Do not put your the boat-carrying exercise, we soaring sea eagles searching for paddle in tentatively as if there is even worked out a formula of how prey and the raucous call of the a landmine at the end.” There was many boats each could help carry mutton birds. The opportunity and how big a boat! Together, we instant recognition that that was to experience isolation and laughed, we teased, we shared advice befitting me. At 73, to keep peacefulness and to enjoy the good food and space and much more. paddling in turbulent waters, I must company of friends. The bonding and trust underlying be wise enough not to get into Claus Busseler: Who can forget the good company made me feel waters with landmines but once in, Troy’s special medications, Paul’s secure and accepted into the tribe. I every paddle must be committed, fennel biscuits that I have since felt I was capable of completely the not tentative like a scary cat. That made and shared with friends trip safely, trusted the spirit of the links up with the second truth from (recipe available on request), my joy team and that eased away a low- the morning. The importance of at doing the Cleft, circumnavigating grade anxiety. learning from watching, especially the island and finally finishing the those more experienced. In relation The Circumnavigation paddle. to rock structures, some features Weatherwise, on Saturday there look threatening but in reality are Andrew Trickett: Thanks for putting was the opportunity for paddling not dangerous while others look up a stranger for the trip. I really did around the island. It was an benign but in reality can be very have a great time. (To quote Paul’s opportunity all of us jumped at, threatening. words, “you were only a stranger for the first ten minutes”). That was how my group mates recounted their weekend highlights. Now, let me tell you why the weekend was such a priceless gift to me. Broughton Island, with its reputation for rough seas and launching and landing capsizes was not on my ‘to do’ list. As such a weekend kayak camping trip to Broughton Island on the day of my 73rd birthday was quite unplanned. When it came up on the club calender, Geoff, a two time veteran, was keen and I as Geoff, Cecilia and Deb on a grade 2 paddler, qualified! So a Providence Beach (Image - Rob Mercer) family birthday dinner was cancelled

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT Club Trips 35

The walk to the summit choir of thousands of hungry mutton The tail winds kept away. Soon birds throughout the night. The first We did this after lunch on Saturday, we were paddling into a strong night, in insomniac wakefulness, hugging the northeast coastline headwind. Soon I was a little we either tolerated or enjoyed the from the campsite on Esmeralda behind. Soon I was getting weary, incessant symphony. By sundown Bay, then clambering through hungry and feeling the need to pee. on the second night there was a partially trackless undergrowth Andrew, offered me a tow as group not so underground trade in natural till the summit at Pinkatop Head. spread was widening. “ No, no I can remedies to keep off the dreaded The uniqueness of the island is complete this unassisted” my inner wakefulness. Troy thus earned here revealed! For a first timer to himself the honour of group drug voice mumbled. Then, I realised Broughton Island, the 360 degree peddler! that the front speeders could not views from this vantage point took relax and wait for me in the strong away a few breaths. To see this Do excuse me for labouring over headwinds and I could not paddle this. Poor mutton birds or poor us? quaintly shaped island from on top, any faster to catch up with them. I suspect that if I had slept in their tracing with the eyes the route our It was no good for anyone. Once little kayaks had traversed through territory a few more nights I would Andrew had the tow on, the lift off earlier in the day, was both peaceful get used to their noise, as I have was exhilarating, sheer joy, as all and invigorating. What a special got used to the constant traffic tension was released. The boat experience to review a sea route noise rushing through my bedroom from a vantage point on land. window. I miss sharing the night was tracking straight and I paddled space with the mutton birds and into the wind fast and at ease. The mutton birds perhaps by my 74th birthday, I can Soon Andrew and I were scooting They were present everywhere and return to share their space. through the waves. Exhilarating, I feel are as iconic as Con’s cleft The return home like a water-skier! Then, as if to Broughton, yet their presence by magic, the tow line released This was supposed to be a non- becomes dramatic only at nightfall. itself. I shouted the news out in event, conditional to our leaving Then, through their howling call, amazement, thanked Andrew and later on Sunday morning, to catch you find them and try not to step on continued to paddle at speed and them. There are thousands of them the forcast north-easterlies home to Jimmy’s beach. The group at ease. Magical assistance, if you around, yet unlike penguins, they believe in magic. hardly feature on tourist postcards. woke up early, breakfasted early, packed up efficiently, got rid of our We landed at Bennett’s beach I first became acquainted with them precious excess town water and safe and dry. We laughed as we when Sharon advised us to include was impatiently waiting for the rested and shared our leftover earplugs in our packing list (to shut leaders. The leaders obligingly did food, preparing ourselves for the off the mutton birds’ nocturnal calls). not delay us. The team spirit as well Sharon’s advice failed miserably. as the homing spirit was great and inevitable task of carrying ten The failure was not because we everything was going as well as it loaded boats across the spit of the forgot but because earplugs do possibly could. We were setting off Yacaaba headland. Suddenly, Rob not work against the multiple-voice ahead of time. asked us to look out to the ocean to see what we could see. We laughed even more when we realised that the wind had changed direction to north easterly. “We could have had a tail wind blowing us all the way home to Jimmy’s beach, if only we had started a little later” he smiled. What a beautiful tale. Acknowledgements Thanks you to Sharon for organising and managing it all, Rob and Andrew for the technical support, Cathy and Rob for the Cecilia paddling through photographs and the whole team for Con’s Cleft creating and sharing the weekend (Image - Rob Mercer) with me.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 36

sea kayakers get fresh

Ruby Ardren discovered that fast flowing river, unable to extricate (as most guys in their 20s are), we it’s possible to have fun on myself. let them go ahead. They managed to stay ahead of us all day because bumpy water. So was it possible for me to enjoy we took every opportunity we could ? To find out, to play in eddies. I spent most of Many of you will know of my long- last Autumn, Caoimhin, Rhys Ward the day skulking in eddies trying to standing discomfort on bumpy and I headed off to the Barrington avoid rapids. water, whether it be fresh or River. We had a mix of limited salty. Surf makes me edgy and experience, with all of us having I got braver as the not in a useful way! A desire to tried it before. We took advantage of weekend went on overcome that discomfort and my the gear hire and car shuffle service because I soon recent improvements in kayak offered by Barrington Outdoor discovered that the handling skills, made me willing Adventures to do an overnight trip, worst thing about to try whitewater kayaking again. putting in at Cobark, camping at the whitewater was Whitewater was a chance to kayak Steps Campground and then taking anticipating all the things on rough water without the threat of out at the Barrington Bridge. that could go wrong. Nothing ever did though getting salt up my nose if I fell in. We looked in horror at the tubs they and I didn’t capsize once had loaded on the trailer for us, I had tried whitewater kayaking all weekend despite and insisted that we could handle a once before on the Snowy River. I going over a couple of boat that required a skirt. They only was terrified and spent a lot of the rocks the wrong way. It had two decent kayaks and had to trip screaming and having no idea turns out I’m far more pull out a brand new boat for Rhys how to get myself out of trouble. I likely to fall out of my (fortunately they’d not seen what loved being on the river though and kayak on flatwater he does to the bottom of his plastic the scenery was beautiful. I’d had a than on whitewater (I kayaks!). We ended up with one similar experience taking a lilo down do this regularly in my Pyranha Connect and two Pyranha a flooded Shoalhaven River, with K1). In fact, I executed Fusions. the most memorable moment being the world’s slowest roll wrapped around my lilo, which was We set off with another group, but because it was so hard wrapped around a small tree in the as they were young and in a hurry to turn my kayak over.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 37

The river was probably at the doing circle work. There are multiple with leaden arms. Caoimhin felt the minimum depth suitable for recordings of me saying ‘stupid were more suited to pole kayaking. That was if you found the #$%!ing boat’. Whitewater kayaking vaulting or perhaps for use as posts right channel through the rapids and seems to give me a severe case of for a garden fence. riffles. This led to a lot of bouncing pottius mouthus… We arrived at Barrington Bridge, on our bums trying to get our boats There’s a few warnings on the river where our shuttle driver was waiting to scrape over shallow shoals and along the way. The most significant for us, looking worriedly up the dislodged from teetering positions warning told us to around a river. He was expecting to collect on rocks that left us high and dry. rapid, which we thankfully ignored another two kayaks that had started I may not have capsized, but I did because it was the best rapid of the at a ford downstream of our party. have to get out and walk a couple entire trip. The rapid was a chicane As we hadn’t seen them all day, of times to get my kayak moving that took a sharp right and then a this meant we hadn’t passed them again. It’s a funny thing about sharp left around a log that was and they should have arrived in whitewater kayaking that the one sticking out of the river waiting to front of us. There weren’t any other rock you try and steer away from in garrotte you. It was so fast though! creeks or waterways they could the middle of a rapid is the one rock And had enough water to give you a have disappeared into, so they had you’ll hit/scrape/run over. good rush! simply disappeared. By the time we had returned to the shop and It was a tremendous relief when By the end of the trip I was bored unloaded and returned our hire we did get a decent flow of water. with the flatwater sections and gear, they had still not turned up. It gave us a break from the wanted more rapids; quite a We never did hear what happened endless battle to keep your kayak significant turnaround to how I was to them. Not part of our party…our moving in a generally downstream feeling at the beginning of the trip. statistics are still intact. direction. Caoimhin isn’t too sure What I wasn’t feeling was my arms. that whitewater kayaking gives you The paddles with their aluminium Seems I might have to give rough much opportunity to practice your shaft and plastic blades had left us water another chance. turning skills because the kayaks turn themselves constantly, before you’ve given it much thought. One downside of wearing a GoPro camera during the trip was that it captured my bad language, which was always at its most colourful when I was trying to go forwards on a flat section but was instead

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 38

A Large Slice of Humble Pie …or how not to navigate an unfamiliar coastline

Journey’s end; a nice view of The Tollgates from my “Judges” beach campsite, just inside Batemans Bay.

Late last June on day two Intending to reduce the risk of being right on time. At first assessment, of a paddle from Jervis Bay late for Neil, I decided to cut out a landing in it didn’t look like a good to Batemans Bay Adrian few kilometres by paddling as direct option. My arrival coincided with low Clayton arranged to meet as I could to the meeting point. As a tide and the surf over the entrance Neil Duffy to pick up a loan consequence of this decision I was, at had nothing to recommend taking it times, more than five kilometres from on. I checked the beach adjacent to VHF radio. the shore. I was hand railing myself the southern side of the inlet as an along the coast, ticking off Bendalong, alternative only to find an exposed reef I had discovered mine had a faulty Manyana, Green Island (the mud was in the way of a risk-free landing. battery. The meeting point was to be map not showing the lighthouse I Unfortunately, negotiating my way Narrawallee Inlet, a few kilometres saw on the island as I passed). Once north of Ulladulla; the appointed time through the surf and into the inlet was past Green Island the map indicated was 12:45pm – about four-and-half necessary if I was to meet Neil as it was another five kilometres to the hours from my departure point at planned. After dismissing thoughts of meeting point. Although I couldn’t see Kittys Beach which is just around the standing him up, I picked my line and the mouth of the inlet the topography I corner from St Georges Head at the timed my run to avoid the bigger sets. north-eastern end of Wreck Bay. was viewing in the distance suggested However, it didn’t need a big wave to where it was and this determined my knock me over (dispossessing me of It was the first time for me to paddle heading. my precious NSW Sea Kayak Club this stretch of coast. To find my way I had a mud map used by At this stage a couple of nagging cap in the process) but I thought Neil other Club members to complete a doubts had started to emerge. My would have been impressed by my similar journey. Its scale was close watch was indicating that it was going recovery. to 1:70,000. According to the map, to be a near run thing meeting Neil on The surf now behind me, I found if I followed the coastline all the way time. However, as I pressed on these myself on the northern side of the the distance to cover was around 28 doubts were dispelled as my objective inlet. Getting to the southern side of kilometres -- a comfortable paddle in came into view. it was a challenge. Even though low the time I’d allotted. I approached the mouth to the inlet tide had arrived, the surface flow was

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 39 still ripping out at a great rate. It took to use the next day and was now feature but my track had me passing a couple of attempts to get the ferry faced with the miserable prospect of Narrawallee Inlet a tad over 5 km angle right before I completed the having to dress in wet gear at the start offshore and I was nearly 4 km out short crossing. of each day for the remainder of my to sea when I passed Green Island Waterlogged on landing I looked journey. (which is attached to the mainland around for Neil but couldn’t see him When Neil eventually arrived he gave during the lower stages of the tidal so phoned to let him know I’d arrived. me the radio. We both surveyed the cycle). I failed to identify both. The surf for a while and Neil reckoned it The conversation between us went lighthouse I thought was on Green something like this: was becoming less foreboding as Island but not shown on the mud the flood tide started taking effect. I Me: Hello Neil, I’ve arrived. Sorry I’m map was actually on Warden Head, a bit late. wasn’t so confident and hoped that he might offer me a warm bed overnight just south of Ulladulla Harbour. Neil: Where are you? at his home in Narrawallee. No such - When doubts emerge regarding your Me: On the first beach on the inside of invitation was forthcoming – given position heed the words of the Club’s the inlet. what I’d done to him I guess it wasn’t navigation guru, Russ Swinnerton Neil: I didn’t see you arrive. Can you surprising. He’d had enough of this that “If something seems wrong it see my van [a white Toyota hi-Ace]? clown. probably is”. Me: Yes. And what did I learn from this - All Toyota Hi-Aces look the same. Neil: Right, I’ll see you in a couple of monumental stuff up?: minutes. - My confidence in being able to Postscript I set about tidying up my kit while I find my way to my destination I found my way into Batemans Bay waited for Neil’s arrival. Ten minutes was grossly misplaced (and some arriving on the third day of the trip and passed and no sight of him. Then I got readers might consider that I’m spent my last night camped on a flat, a phone call: letting myself off lightly here). In grassy, site on the verge of “Judges” other less complimentary terms: Neil: I can’t find you. Where exactly (beach). The next morning I paddled beware of delusions of adequacy. are you? the short distance to Long Beach - I should not have relied on such Me: In the public reserve adjacent to where NSWSKC R’n’R 2017 co- a sketchy map (so sure was I for the first beach inside the inlet. convenor and local resident Neil Gow most of the distance that I knew my was waiting for me. After letting me Neil: Can you see my van? position, I didn’t once consult the shower and providing a delicious feed Me: No, you must have moved it GPS tucked in my underdeck, into without me seeing. Where have you which all of the trip’s waypoints had of bubble-and-squeak he deposited taken it? been entered!). me at the bus stop in town where, for Neil: I haven’t moved it! - Hand railing is a harder task to a $2.50 ticket, I was able get to Milton to meet up with Neil Duffy again. Me: Oh… something’s wrong complete successfully the further somewhere. Hang on, there’s a sign away you are from the features you Together we travelled in the trusty Hi- here that says that Burrill Beach has are trying to identify. I don’t know at Ace back to my car at Hyams Beach. dangerous rips. what stage I first misinterpreted a Are all Neils such nice guys? Neil: (sigh) Okay, can you see a crane working on a bridge up the inlet? Me: Yes. Neil: Okay, I know where you are. I’ll be there in 15 minutes. Me: (sheepishly) Okay. It turned out that I’m about 12 km further south than intended; a very bad look for a chap that is putting on a Club navigation training session in two My track from Kittys Beach weeks’ time. to Burrill Inlet. The real It was the middle of winter and I was Green Island alongside the entrance to Lake Conjola. bloody cold. There was enough of a breeze to increase the chill. The first priority while I waited for Neil to arrive was to get into dry paddling kit. I donned the clothes that I had planned

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 40 North by Nadgee II

Despite there being no To gain access to the open sea the shallow reef. I paddled round club activity on the NSW requires paddling north for a few the rock but with the swell slipping Island Challenge over hundred metres to skirt a semi- vigorously up and down its sides and no obvious little nook or cranny the last few months, John submerged breakwater that shelters the ramp from ocean swells. Once where exiting the boat looked Atkins has continued to round that a kilometre or so of feasible I kept the snorkelling knock a few islands off the coast angles away to the south east gear stowed and paddled back to list on his own. before you round a headland and Green Island where in a slightly the imposing silhouette of the gaol more sheltered spot I managed In the interests of exploring those is blocked from view while ahead with a bit of gel coat abuse to land parts of the NSW coast which have the unmistakeable marker of Smoky the Nadgee and have a quick so far escaped the attentions of Cape Lighthouse provides for easy snorkel. Nothing remarkable in the my kayak I again drove north from navigation to the logical crossing submarine world at this location. Sydney and undertook three short point to Fish Rock. I decided to add a beach landing paddles to circumnavigate two Green Island lies about 2 km north through surf to the day and headed rocks and two islands. Working from of the Light and I paddled in close for the sheltered southern section south to north in the order in which to check it out as a snorkel stop! of a small beach that runs north these paddles were completed However my main aim was to from Smokey Cape. I’ll chalk up the these destinations were as follows. circumnavigate Fish Rock and see if upside down part of this landing to I could make a landing and snorkel experience, but the water was warm 1. Arakoon to Fish Rock and and the beach pleasant when I got Green Island, South West the shallow northern entrance to the submarine tunnel that runs through there. Rocks it. A rocky reef appears to run from Back to Arakoon and a very nice At the eastern extremity of Trial the point under the light house out lunch in the kiosk before retiring to Bay tucked in under the walls of the to the Rock and I’d imagine seas the South West Rocks caravan park Trial Bay Gaol is a protected boat would break here fairly often. The to watch the sun set behind the blue ramp ideal for launching a kayak swell for my trip was about 1.5 m Kundabungs and night darken the to explore an interesting and very and the paddle out was bumpy perfect arc of Trial Bay. scenic section of coast. in the confused water created by 2. Byron Bay and the Julian Rocks Looking north from Smokey In a complete contrast to the Fish Cape towards Green Island and Arakoon (Image - Ruby Ardren) Rock paddle where I saw two people all day this paddle was like Pitt Street at peak hour. I drove out to Wategos Beach early…paid to park…unloaded the kayak trying to avoid braining passing pedestrians as I did and headed out through small surf towards the Rocks. This is a short paddle, about forty minutes and I was there. I circumnavigated the Rocks and enjoyed the water, schools of fish were lying nose to tail on the sheltered northern side of the Rocks, dive boats were arrowing in from Byron bringing the next load

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 41

The Rocks, about 40 mins by Nadgee

Cook Island…looks further out than it is…less than 1 km to the inshore point of backpackers out for a blue water 3. Cook Island, Tweed Heads that wraps round the southern and experience. The snorkelling looked western sides of Cook Island. The This little island came as a surprise. good and landing on the Rocks or After working at Cook’s Landing reef generates a big patch of rough mooring up would have been simple Place and teaching lots of kids for and breaking water that looks best (I carry 15 metres of cord attached lots of years about the ‘last of the avoided. to a 3 lb dive weight that’s served great explorers’ I was intrigued to me well as an anchor on lots of Coming back to the lee side and find that the small island I could spearfishing paddles). However lying in close to the island it seemed see from the Tweed Heads lookout I began to wonder about rules in a landing would be possible on a was one observed by him, and later such a well-used spot and didn’t quieter day but I was short of time named after him, and one I’d never so I headed back to the beach. I want to risk breaking any so will heard of. investigate further and put this on had to really time my approach as the snorkelling list for next time I’m So next day I headed out to Fingal the swell was pushing through from visiting my Byron friends. Beach to collect another island. the south east and waves refracting The beach is not a great launching round the island were approaching I looped out to sea and paddled spot, although a sandy point and from the north east and colliding just far enough south of the iconic sandbar at its southern end give with it, making it jump up and break lighthouse to be able to claim a some shelter from wave and swell. unpredictably. I managed to pick paddle to Australia’s most easterly My launch still required punching a lull and get through the worst of point then headed for shore. through some broken waves and the break then side surfed a bit Coming back in to the beach I found a burst of speed to get clear of the before clearing the danger zone and myself queuing behind about fifty sit surf zone before a big one broke. heading in. on top kayaks coming from Byron to After that a ten minute paddle land at Wategos; these commercial was all that was needed to reach This little island is the last island trips run continuously and looking the inshore side of the island. before the water turns maroon so I across the bay I could see at least Circumnavigation required a bit of don’t know if it was ‘club’ paddled three more groups lined up to land. care and a considerable seaward during our Island Challenge, but if it Picking a lull between the lumps detour to safely get round the reef was missed it’s now on the list! of plastic I grabbed a wave and landed in a toddler free section of 2017 is not over yet! the beach. This is another really scenic piece There is still another month to contribute of coast and I can understand its club trips to the NSWSKC Island Challenge. popularity but can see the need for good management to keep it safe Lets see how many we can finish off! from overuse.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 42

Mark Pearson gives us a But the big unknown was how later in Goondiwindi and that night rambling journal about would Mike and I get on over two were relieved to find that we were two men – their dark weeks where we would have no both on the light end of the snoring other company. We had done the history and a GPS that spectrum. occasional overnighter together, The next morning we headed nearly came between but this would be interesting. I knew through more parched country. To them. that the smallest differences could fester in a two person expedition. those who have not seen inland Queensland late in the ‘dry’ season, After a six-week trip to the UK And we were different. Mike it is appalling. A desolate landscape and Asia I was still getting used was into gear and technical and with stunted trees, and the whole to the idea of returning not to my electronic stuff. I didn’t even have place dominated by huge trucks and normal job, but to retirement. I had a compass. I liked red wine, Mike ‘wide loads’ servicing mining. As we discussed a Queensland trip before was teetotal. We also had some approached Rockhampton from the departing for overseas and on my unfortunate ‘history’. Sixteen years west we also saw the uplifting sight return my old friend Mike Snoad ago in Tasmania I mistakenly put on Mike’s fresh underpants while of a huge coal train, which needed asked if I was still keen for a two four engines to push it towards week trip starting mid September. I changing in a hurry in the rain after paddling back from Maria Island. the nearby power station. Ahh returned to Canberra and two 9oC I suspected Mike had never really Queensland indeed. days. “Lets go”, I said to Mike. forgiven me for this violation of his After some final shopping, we We decided to start at Yeppoon, underwear. So would we be an camped on the beach at Bengalee head up through the ‘army land’, effective team? Time would tell. north of Yeppoon. Having just the find some new islands then head So on September 11th I departed one car, the normal car shuffle west back to the mainland. We also from Sydney and Mike from Nelligen was not an option. We made the discussed the campsites, we both and we rendezvoused in Bathurst at decision to leave the car at the agreed we were sick of following the 8.30am. From here my white X Trail starting point, and at trip’s end, use well worn route dictated by the likes was left parked on the street and our ageing wits to return south. of opinionated ‘guru’ paddlers such we were soon on the road in Mike’s The Trip as John Wilde, who I had paddled white X Trail. As we drove through with in 2009. I said, “to hell with the country we mused on how Day 1 - We awoke at dawn. Mike bloody Wilde and his ilk, how about, many of these Queensland ‘winter’ had warned me that he would where possible, we boldly camp paddles we had done ... turned out be unusually slow for the initial where no man has camped before!” this was my seventh and Mike’s pack. It did indeed take some time Mike agreed. This was exciting. eighth. We called it a day 650 km due to the long carry and getting Going Boldly in Capricornia

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 43 everything to the water’s edge. The forecast for an increasing north/ the family endure salt water enemas It was during the first carry with north west wind was not welcome at to gain fluid, which kept them alive. Mike at the front that I noticed that all given my lack of paddle fitness. I said I hoped it didn’t come to that Mike seemed to need a ‘wheel After going steadily into it for two with us. alignment’. With his head down, and a half hours the wind went up a That night we had the first of instead of carrying in a straight notch and we decided not to round several wildlife encounters - I was line to the water he veered right, I the large headland to the north of awakened by a blood curdling noise guessed one metre right for every Corio Bay to the usual site, but turn coming from about 25 metres away, three metres forward. “Go Left into the northern side of the bay and which I can only describe as how Mike. LEFT!” I shouted. Sensing my look for a camp. We found a great a large male wolf would sound if irritation with this, Mike continued little beach west of Little Corio Bay, it was castrated mid howl. In the to ‘veer right’ for the rest of the trip with shade, enough ‘flatness’ for morning Mike confirmed it was a whenever he had the opportunity. two tents and breeze to help deter dingo, and there were indeed two I put this behaviour down to the the sand flies. “Has John Wilde ever sets of tracks on the beach. underwear incident. been here?” I shouted. “No way” said Mike. Things were going to Day 2 - The weather forecast was As we packed, Mike negotiated plan. for more unfriendly north west and with passing walkers to find a good north easterly winds so we decided car spot near the local houses. By After setting up camp, I took my to look for a camp at Five Rocks 8.40am he had parked the car and first swim while Mike watched, about 18 km north. The spot we returned to his semi-packed boat. I armed with large stones should found was pretty good despite was now ready but was worried by the dreaded crocodile appear. Of another long low tide carry, and it the volume of stuff sitting beside but course we’ve never seen a hint of a even had a small flowing creek with not yet in his kayak. This included a croc in these waters in these cooler quality water. We had not expected 1.5 litre pee bottle with a very wide months but the worry persists. I to get any water until Freshwater opening - a piece of equipment then took possession of the stones Bay so this was a bonus. That obviously intended to impress fellow during Mike’s dip. This was great afternoon I found an even bigger kayakers! teamwork and it felt good. flowing creek at the other end of As it slowly dawned on Mike that his Later, we talked about water, the beach with a bush shower set sea kayak could only take a finite how dry the country was, and up through a hollow log. Given the amount of gear, I helped by taking possible replenishment spots. Mike generally parched landscape this his excess stuff back to the car, a mentioned the story of a family in a was quite amazing. That night we task that also helped me escape the yacht, which ran out of water at sea. listened to Mike’s shortwave radio attention of the sand flies. The mother was a GP who made for the detailed forecast. A stiff

Eliza Island

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 44 45

southerly was forecast to arrive in the early hours. Day 3 - Our camp was sheltered from the wind, but packing up our boats we noticed the waves on the beach were rapidly becoming like real NSW surf, but messier. The lumpy horizon also pointed to a decent sea running. I pushed off and had the usual kayaker experience of realising these waves were way bigger than they looked from the beach. However my timing was good and I got out albeit with some airborne moments, stopping about 200 metres away from the beach to be out of the break zone. Then I watched Mike. Freshwater Bay. Here there was his GPS, I would take my mat onto The occasional glimpse of his bow bush fire damage very close to the the beach. Here I would don my cresting a wave, his paddle tips ‘night driving’ glasses, and look up working steadily. But then no sign at camp building. There was fresh at the wondrous night sky in HD all. A minute passed, then a lifting water in the tank and also some while simultaneously stretching and swell helped me glimpse his kayak, discarded US army rations. We using a softball to torture my stiff sideways, pilotless and heading for were pleased to have got through back muscles. We were settling rocks. Mike was now standing in the a challenging day on the water, but into the rhythm of the expedition shallows seemingly picking things displeased that we were camping lifestyle. Life was good. up. I now considered the possibility on a site bearing John Wilde’s that I could be in for an exciting surf historic footprints. Day 5 – Mike and I had chatted back in, and the depressing thought Day 4 – I reverted to my flat paddle about the route to Pinetrees beach. of having to set up camp again. and light winds enabled a nice I suggested we take a line between Thankfully 10 minutes later Mike relaxed 23 km leg. The usual stop Split Island to the right and the sorted things out and pushed off would have been Pearl Bay, but islets to the north of Pearl Bay to again and this time broke through. short of there we paddled into the left. Mike strongly suggested he wanted to turn left to see Pearl Given the sea conditions we the deeply recessed Delcomyn Bay and then head north to the decided against sailing, which Bay to have a look at the two left of the islets. I was ok with this. turned out to be the right call. beaches. Mike eventually found But 30 minutes after heading off For the next two hours we were a nice camp spot on the northern I’m veering left according to the subject to a chaotic sea with chunky beach. Unlike my companion, who plan but Mike is on my suggested southerly two metre waves, an seemed annoyingly immune to sand course. I caught up and questioned underlying north east swell, and fly bites, I already had suffered Mike but he seemed to have no occasional rebound from nearby several and was keen to reduce the reason for quietly reverting to cliffs. Despite our near 40 years of chance of further irritation. Given my original plan. I again decided combined sea kayaking experience the breeze wasn’t really putting that this contrary behaviour was things were tense out there, with them off l lit a small fire on the something to do with the underwear the fact that there were just two of beach to ‘make smoke’...to which I incident. us adding a layer of stress to the added two old coconuts. Within 15 proceedings. Mike handled the minutes the coconuts flared up like We landed on a small island outside conditions better than I did, with my mini furnaces, releasing a pungent the entrance of Island Head Creek new wing paddle not quite the right ammonia/bad soap smell. The sand and I set up my fishing rod while tool for the extra work I have to do flies fled in terror. Mike kept going. Within 30 minutes in a heavy rudderless boat. That night we continued with what I had caught a couple of fish and I headed to the camp. We eventually rounded Cape would become a night time ritual. Manifold and into calmer waters, Dinner preparation and eating Pinetrees was a nice campsite where we put the sails up between 6 and 7 pm, then listen to in 2009 and 2011, but a cyclone, for the last four kilometres to the shortwave forecast. Then, while probably ‘Marcia’ in 2015, had the occasional army camp at Mike fiddled with the waypoints on smashed up the mature trees at the

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 44 45

the strong tidal flow into the huge Shoalwater Bay, our minds now turn to strategies for dealing with these ‘rivers in the sea’. Day 8 – As we packed the boats a motor launch appeared with one adult, several kids and two dogs. The first humans we had seen for several days. We chatted to the captain and Mike took the opportunity to beg for some water. We both scored 4 litres each. Our course to Collins was roughly due west and Mike and I agreed on a path that kept us to the north of the island to counteract the tide. Mike was now operating his GPS on front of the beach so we struggled still had 12 litres left, not to mention a full time basis. While respecting to find a nice spot. Eventually Mike an ‘emergency reserve’ of a litre of the GPS I was keen to monitor found a site beside a dry creek red wine. Although I was tempted visual bearings made possible by bed leading to a small lagoon to condemn Mike to a series of the islands we were leaving and inland. That night we enjoyed the salt water enemas to teach him a a range of islets to our north. I fish with lemon salt and pepper; lesson, for the sake of team unity kept a hundred metres behind my although one was a bit ‘tough’, it I offered to share mine if things companion so I could watch for was welcome protein. After five got critical. Later that afternoon, any sudden changes of direction days of paddling, and the fact that Mike had an encounter with a large dictated by the little black box. All our bodies were still getting used snake, probably a king brown, went well for a couple of hours as to the demands of the paddling/ which was approaching our camp we took advantage of several tide carrying/camping lifestyle, we both and left large slither marks on the races when, suddenly, Mike was felt physically tired. A rest day was sand as it retreated. doing strange things. He turned to agreed. That night the high tide the north east for 75 metres, then came up strongly, and suddenly Day 7 - Mike and I had discussed south for 75 metres. I caught up to burst across the beach turning the the route for the day. We were him. Mike appeared concerned, he creek bed only two metres from our headed for Supply Bay at the north stated that the GPS was reporting chairs into a fast running creek but west tip of the large Townshend slower speeds - his southwards heading inland. Awesome. Island. I suggested we paddled dart recorded only 5 km/h. Had the wide of the east coast of the island tide turned? Do we need to head to Day 6 –Exploration of the three just in case there were tidal flows a little islet to our north and camp beach creeks revealed no fresh on the headlands heading south there? This was not part of the water at all. Mike then admitted to feed the famous Strong Tide plan and so I doused these ideas, that he was ‘getting a bit short’ Passage. Mike agreed. But 30 telling Mike that my observations of water. Aghast at this news, I minutes after heading off I’m on the suggested we were making good launched a full Commission of agreed course but Mike is tracking progress westward and weren’t Enquiry regarding Mike’s water close to the island, his GPS giving moving either north or south. We crisis. Under interrogation Mike him regular info on his progress. We made it to Collins without further admitted to not carrying his full reach the tip of Townshend Island at incident except for a two metre capacity of water, despite the Five the same time, but not as a team. creamy coloured shark I spooked in Rocks bonus discovery and water the shallows off a tiny sand cay. But being available at Freshwater Bay. We arrived at Supply Bay and after for the first time I was now started to Furthermore he admitted to guzzling some vigorous gardening to get rid have reservations about the GPS... his supplies “like it was water” at of dead timber we have a nice site. was Mike’s trusting relationship with over four litres a day, compared to That night Mike makes damper with this device becoming unhealthy? my more sensible three! His only honey. The damper apparently was excuse was that he had expected to not perfect but what the hell it was At Collins there was good tank fill up here at Pinetrees, but this was different. The tides are now massive water from the deserted houses, not a strong case given he knew with a seven-metre range. With the and we also scored some lemons. Pinetrees was waterless in 2009. I next leg to Collins Island subject to As the tide was now turning we

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 46 47

headed for tiny Eliza Island only a Day 10 - We enjoyed a pleasant waves heading south east and kilometre to the north west. As we 10 km cruise into Stanage, one of south west smashed into us as we glided in to the little beach Mike the most remote settlements on the traversed a weird milky brown sea. said “looks like paradise to me” and east coast, still only accessible by Despite the wave action we were it was; just enough shade, decent 100 km of dirt road. Here we put our soon doing 10 km/h, according camp spots, enough breeze, no stuff on a table. The luxury of this to the GPS. This pattern was to sand flies and only three mosquitos. was quite amazing. While adjusting continue for the next hour. As we And if we got sick of the view to the to the hideous sound of ‘traffic’, passed the Barren Islands to our east, we could scrabble 20 metres we picked up the replenishment right, the nor’easter was increasing. over the low central ridge for one to supplies we had freighted from I shouted to Mike that I thought it the west. Rockhampton, and that night had would be wise to paddle in an arc steak at the Crabpot Bar, which that brings us to Wild Duck from That night we learned that the wind boasted dozens of photos of slightly north of east. I was keen forecast was now strongly from the grinning Queenslanders holding to make sure the wind stayed ‘our north/north east for the next several large crabs. friend’ I said. Totally ignoring my days. We had toyed with the idea wisdom, Mike convinced me to of finishing at Sarina but this now Day 11 - We agreed to get up at first light and get away as allow the GPS to take us to the seemed out of the question. We early as possible to avoid the bearing he had set on Wild Duck. agreed to aim for the Flat Isles, strengthening incoming tide. The and then either choose Carmila or And so for the next hour and a half carry was difficult, over 250 metres Clairview as our finishing point. I followed Mike’s every move as he across rubble and slippery mud. I made adjustments for the difference Day 9 - The leg to the west coast of calculated that we both walked 2 currents at the behest of the little Shoalwater Bay always threatened km just to get on the water. With device. Wild Duck now seemed to be the most tedious. The first our destination being Wild Duck only a few kilometres away, but the two hours were windless, with Island 30 km away, I had studied GPS now had us almost paddling oppressive heat and annoying tickly the charts and it was obvious we parallel to it in a north-easterly sweat rolling down our faces. The were in for a ‘tide race’ experience. I direction, and into the wind. For the scale of these north facing ‘bays’ noticed a 3-knot tide warning in the first time in a while I looked behind still blows me away…looking south 6 km wide channel between Wild me, to see the shocking sight of the during crossings you cannot see Duck and Long Island to the south – northern tip of Long Island not too land. A light nor’easter eventually I said to Mike that we really do need far away. We were in the dreaded relieved the heat, but we were to avoid that area. The forecast 3-knot channel! I shout to Mike that both glad to complete the 25 km was for strengthening north/north we are not moving - he assures crossing. We had decided to find a east winds. Mike and I discussed me that we are doing 7 km/h. I’m camp south of Stanage and enter diverting west to camp on Long not convinced. Can you do 7 km/h Island if the wind got too strong. the town the next morning. As we sideways? I’m looking left to Wild were back on the mainland we As we turned north rounding the Duck and watching the relationship found a nice little beach with no eastern tip of Quail Island we between a small headland and a vehicular access. And John Wilde encountered a major tide race. large tree on the beach behind it. had never been near this place. Masses of close packed 1.5 metre And there is no change.

Left: Mark Pearson and Mike Snoad; Right: A refreshing walk/carry

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 46 47

This was a major moment in the trip. there was a waterfall there”. Or in see them. Again we were subject A little black box saying all is okay, our case “sorry mate I didn’t know to a strong southwards drift and the when all my senses are saying we there was a 3 knot current there”. GPS kept us on a more northerly are stationary paddling into a 3-knot Anyhow after this day I swore never heading. But with the nor’easter current parallel to our destination. again would I let my guard down getting up I broke the shackles Five minutes later I snap. Quietly against the influence of the little and put the sail up and headed breaking from the dictates of the black box. direct west for the last 5 km. Mike machine I turned for the southern followed. Day 12 – Rest day. I awoke to news edge of Wild Duck. Mike, absorbed After rejecting the first possible as he was by the addictive pleasure that Mike had heard noise on the site the second little beach we of the GPS screen, did not see me beach during the night and shouted. checked out was brilliant - nice go, and continued into the current. It was a wild boar and there were eating position and being so steep With some vigorous paddling I indeed some ‘Razorback’ size prints the carry in the morning could be counteracted the current flow and in the sand. I visited the amazing no more than 80 metres. Has John slowly made it to the shelter of a freshwater billabong 200 metres Wilde been here I asked? “Never small headland. Here I waited. behind the beach, had a swim and been near the place” said Mike. Mike eventually followed my lead, washed my clothes and cotton inner Mike then triumphantly announced saying he had lost sight of me and sheet using the dry bag technique. he had heaps of water left. 16 litres! was worried about my safety, but, This process and hanging them in I rebuked him for pointlessly over critically, he would not admit to any up in the breeze to dry made me compensating his water storage at fault in his beloved gadget. feel just a touch civilised and gave me great pleasure. the end of the trip. That night on the island I put to Day 14 – with 10-15 knot northerlies Mike the issue of GPS ‘waterfall Day 13 – At low tide I measured forecast and after an easy pack, limitation’. This being that a GPS the carry to get our boats on the we set off for Clairview. Expecting could help you navigate across a water – 620 steps or about 500 a nice unchallenging sail I took the very wide river to a certain point, but metres, which would have been a risk of putting my mobile phone it only knows how to counteract the new record for the trip. We carried into a zip lock bag in my PFD for current at any point in time, without them 250 metres and waited until possible photo opportunities. After any other awareness. If the current 10:30 for enough water to come negotiating several interesting tide accelerates and overwhelms you over the flat sand area for us to tow races the wind came up and up and you are sucked over the nearby the kayaks into deeper water. We until it was around 20 knots. Waves waterfall a GPS would basically headed for Avoid Island in the Flat shrug its computerised shoulders Isles, which indeed were so flat it were now rearing up everywhere and sailing was becoming rather and say, “sorry mate I didn’t know took quite a while for us to actually ‘interesting’ in the chaos amidst the currents. I began to worry mainly because of the vulnerability of my phone. I shouted to Mike to rendezvous in the lee of the Roundish Island spit and managed to hand him my phone for safe keeping in his day hatch. This was teamwork and it felt good. The final few kilometres were more fun with both of us catching some exhilarating surfing rides. We arrived at Clairview at close to high tide, with the final pleasing thought that John Wilde had never finished a trip here. After renting a very basic cabin, we put on our own clean underwear without incident, thereby putting this issue behind us forever. Mike then got a list of all vehicles leaving the campsite the next morning and from this organised a lift south to

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 48

Rockhampton. I volunteered to Epilogue and for NSW paddlers this area is worth exploring for this feature do the trip, then caught a bus to This was a really good trip, with alone. Despite the trip being Yeppoon and a taxi to Bangalee. the aim of finding new camps a only 260 km, the overall physical I was back in Clairview by mid success. Six of our thirteen nights exertion involved is significant and afternoon. We made it to Banana were spent in new territory, with two we both lost more than 5kg in the that night, then Mudgee the next new islands discovered. Eliza Island 14 days. day before returning to Bathurst to in particular was tiny but excellent, find my car safe and sound the next and perhaps smaller islands are Mike Snoad and I remain good morning. worth a look in future trips. The friends and will paddle together tide races were spectacular across again, although perhaps not with Shoalwater Bay and Broad Sound, the GPS. Watching Whales Roy and Bronwyn Davies closer Roy saw there were no Slowly paddling further south we kayaked against the tide whales, only the explosions from heard whales singing behind us. down the Evans River on a the bommie. It was getting louder and louder. There were two different songs. gloriously still morning. While we were wondering which Three higher notes answered by direction to go a whale family one lower note on the other side of Turning south past Evans Head we started playing beside us. us. were on the lookout for whales and We were privileged to experience The profoundly moving beauty of dolphins. the real thrill of whales noisily the songs had us spell bound. The blowing behind us and before long Roy saw some whale activity in singing whales did not surface. the far distance, probably two we were surrounded by them. kilometres away. They were powerfully exhaling, Shortly afterwards another whale breaching, loud tail slaps and surfaced beside us. He then swam Heads down and paddles churning generally enjoying themselves. This under us and surfaced on the other we headed towards the splashes. was the closest we’ve been to such side. He did this several times. The whales were near Cahors playful humpback whales. (known by the locals as “Chaos”). The next day we paddled north This is a bombora ten kilometres While these whales were performing from the Evans River. We again had south of Evans River. As we got for us the dolphins arrived to play another wonderful experience. We with their huge cousins. spotted a single whale a kilometre away, then 500 metres distant and After circling us showing off coming our way. After a few minutes their baby; the mother, teenager of inactivity on the ocean, the eight- and baby whales went on their metre calf suddenly breached and homeward journey and the dolphins twisted ten meters in front of us. disappeared. After experiencing The calf then dove and came up the exhilaration of listening to the two metres behind us. whales play we rested and had breakfast. The ocean is a place of wonder.

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 49

KayakingThe in ItalyDolce and Malta withVita Neil Gow

Crowded Italian cities and beaches The next experience was not the Rialto Bridge with some awe with banana beds and beachside mainstream. Whilst staying at and trepidation, given its bustle of bars do not provide the most Torricella di Magione in Umbria, on vaporettos, water taxis, gondolas conducive environments for wanting the eastern side of Lago Trasimeno and cargo boats and barges, when to go kayaking, but where there is and cycling around the lake towards a couple of small kayaks appeared, a will there is a kayak! And I found San Feliciano, I noticed a Valley and a quick Google search revealed three of them on a recent trip to Italy Gemini in the boat yard at Acqua a couple of kayak businesses and Malta. Dolce sailing school, and managed offering tours of Venice at water to use it for a day to paddle to level. We launched from the marina After aborting an attempt to hire a explore the three islands of the lake. on Certosa Island and paddled kayak on the Amalfi coast due to Of course there were restaurants across a busy shipping channel poor equipment, high prices and and picnic facilities on Isola to Venice Arsenal and entered those banana beds and bars at Maggiore (a favourite hangout of the canals with our guide and had saturation levels on every small Saint Francis of Assisi, and where the best experience. The paddle beach, and with useful intelligence he dug a well with his bare hands!) included a violent thunderstorm, provided by Philip Rose in an and Isola Polvese, but the smaller which we waited out under one of earlier Salt (number 94, August Isola Menore was uninhabited. The the many, many historic, arched 2014), we found ourselves on Gozo lake is where Hannibal, without stone bridges. Our guide had some Island – Malta’s smaller and quieter his famous elephants, cleaned up arguments in true Italia style with neighbour. It boasts limestone sea the Romans in 281BC, but despite boats entering one way canals cliffs in which there are extensive his stunning victory, didn’t get the wrong way, which I couldn’t caves, lots of sunshine and calm through to Rome. The lake has a translate, and also provided an waters and friendly people keen government run ferry service and interesting commentary about to share their backyard. We did every lakeside town is set up for Venice’s history and use of the not go to Philip’s destination (the tourists, both domestic and foreign, canals. A few of the flash hotels Azure Window and the Inland Sea) but it was manageable in early still have a gondola service to their on the west of the island, as it June. Probably not recommended in watery doorsteps, but the vast had collapsed in March 2017, but July and August. majority of those doors are now instead, crossed to Comino Island, Finally we got to Venice and without redundant. Definitely a must for all. close to Gozo. The half day paddle prior thoughts of kayaking, I was Just do it, and ask about the steel was well run, equipment was good drinking another Nastro whilst spikes across the walls above the and the caves were great. Woo hoo! regarding the Grand Canal near canals where boats are moored.

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017 50 South West Crete, Greece

Alison Curtin takes a were responsive to emails and is about half way along the south kayaking break/food tour questions and had a good range coast of Crete, on the Libyan Sea. in Crete. of kayaks to use, including many About 170 -180km. Valleys. As with most organised tours, the As I had planned a trip to go - The more I read about Crete, group is pot luck! We had four in climbing with friends in the the more amazing it sounded: our group plus the guide and the Greek islands, I decided some kayaking, snow (in winter), levels of sea kayaking experience sea kayaking would be a perfect canyons, climbing, the longest were quite varied. But we were complimentary activity for a month’s gorge in the world… pretty lucky. Everyone got on holiday. Weighing up all the options well together. There were two - Adrian gave Crete a good rap for kayaking in Greece and nearby Englishmen, who were cycling when I asked him about kayaking Turkey, and there are quite a few around Crete and had spent their in Greece. kayak companies, I decided on lives on ships so took to kayaks Crete. Why? So - how’d it go? pretty quickly; a German lady who had done a few other sea kayaking - The dates for an advertised eight- The trip was a really enjoyable holidays in Italy; and me. day trip fit with my itinerary. holiday. We paddled for eight days - Enjoy–Crete (kayak and adventure from Paleochora, at the west end of The guide Manolis was Greek and company), easy to find on-line Crete, eastwards to Matala, which a very experienced sea kayaker

NOVEMBER 2017 | SALT 51 and friendly character. He was keen was no taverna around the corner were reflected perfectly. This made to make it a good trip for everyone when we wanted lunch, we would for absolutely stunning photography and as I had done more paddling make our own Greek salads with in the late afternoon light. than the rest of the group, I was delicious fresh tomatoes, local generally free to meander close cheeses, cucumber, olive oil and It did also get a bit bumpy on a to shore exploring caves and rock bread. I estimate we paddled for 4 few days! Katabatic winds from gardens while the others took a to 5 hours each day and ate for 5 the north can occur when paddling more direct line. I was also able to to 7 hours! The rest was swimming in southern Crete (we didn’t go exploring on my own, which was and sleeping, with some exploration experience any fortunately). Some great, as sometimes I wanted to do of historic sites and landmarks. I days tailwinds of 15 to 20 knots a bit more paddling than the others. should explain here, as justification added a bit of fun and made the last - that the Cretan diet is reportedly Each day the group paddled paddle leg of the day a bit faster. the healthiest in the world. The beer between 20-25 kms, with many We basically had pretty perfect and wine were also pretty good. breaks for swimming and tavernas. weather for the whole trip. The schedule once you got up was, The Libyan Sea seemed to have Highlights of my paddling holiday in breakfast then we paddled for about little life in it (it’s all been eaten), Crete, apart from the Cretan food an hour to a taverna for coffee and/ however the colour of the water were the relaxed approach, many or fresh orange juice and optional was mesmerizing shades of blue second breakfast. We would then I haven’t seen before, from aqua deep sea caves to explore, the paddle to another taverna for to deep indigo blue. And the water spectacular rocky coast line with a Cretan lunch, swimming and was at times so glassy the backdrop ample opportunities for getting on relaxing, before a sunset paddle of cliffs, caves and 2000m peaks, and off the beautiful warm water, to a beach to camp and cook our dotted with churches on remote and good company! [Four thumbs own dinner. On some days if there promontories and ruined castles, up]

NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | NOVEMBER 2017