THE MAGAZINE OF THE NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB ISSUE 103 | DECEMBER 2016
23,000 km finished!
Also inside: Tribute to Mick MacRobb, Hawkesbury Canoe Classic results, trips all along the coast of NSW, a solo paddle in QLD, and Prince William Sound in Alaska. 2
Front cover: Sandy Robson approaches the finish of her journey with sail up in tribute to Mick MacRobb, who recently passed away. CONTENTS Above: Sandy Robson in Papua New Guinea (images provided by Sandy) From the President’s Deck 3 From the Editor’s Desk 3 NSW Sea Kayak Club Inc. Rock ‘n’ Roll 2017 4 PO BOX R1302, ROYAL EXCHANGE NSW 1225 NSW Island Challenge 5 The NSWSKC is a voluntary organisation run by members who give their time Special freely to the club. Membership is offered yearly. Please see the website for details Obituary - Mick MacRobb 6 and application. www.nswseakayaker.asn.au Sandy Robson finishes 8 PRESIDENT: TRIPS CONVENOR: Hawkesbury Canoe Classic 10 Megan Pryke Selim Tezcan [email protected] [email protected] Training and Technical Rolling practice in Winter 14 VICE PRESIDENT: ROCK ’N ROLL COORDINATOR: Rolling - The Holy Grail 15 Tony Murphy Simon Swifte [email protected] [email protected] Saltiest submission 15 SECRETARY/TREASURER: INTERNET COORDINATOR: My navigation mistake 16 Alison Curtin Stephan Meyn Emergency + App 17 [email protected] [email protected] Surfing and rolling 18 TRAINING COORDINATOR: EDITOR: Club Trips Nick Blacklock Ruby Ardren Cowan Creek 21 [email protected] [email protected] Lake and Ocean Antics 22 Contributions yes please! Salt the magazine of the NSW Sea Kayak Club is published three to four times a year by the NSW Sea Kayak Club. The NSWSKC welcomes articles relating to sea kayaking for inclusion Private Trips in the Club’s magazine and website. Publication in the magazine and/or website is at the sole discretion Our first six months 26 of the editor. All articles submitted are subject to review by the editor who reserves the right to reject or edit material. Please email contributions as Microsoft Word or text files. Images need to be supplied at the Cruising Nadgee 28 highest possible resolution. All material is copyright. The contributor retains underlying intellectual property rights in the contribution however the contributor grants the club a global perpetual all-media license to North by Nadgee 30 publish the contribution in club communications, including in print and digitally. Reproduction in whole or Whitsunday Wanderings 32 part is strictly forbidden without written permission from the editor, author or photographer. Advertisers must adhere to legal requirements and undertake to indemnify NSWSKC against any consequences Tropo Solo 36 arising out of their advertisements. For further information contact the editor. South of the Harbour 43 All views expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and are not necessarily those of the NSWSKC. Tonga/Friendly Islands 44 IMPORTANT: Please review the Paddler Safety, Required Equipment, Grading System and Club Calendar Prince William Sound 46 sections of the club website.
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 3
need for a location that can cater From the to a variety of different paddling opportunities and a large number of President’s campers. Summer is here and the enthusiasm to get in, not just on, the water is Deck understandably higher. Even if you are an experienced paddler, don’t forget to practice rescue skills. MEGAN PRYKE When you are out paddling with an “Are you going to Rock ‘n’ Roll?” bit of time either side. It has an experienced group, it can be a good time to push your boundaries a little. I recall being asked this question amazing vibe. The number of sea There is always an opportunity to kayaks, the chance for members as a newbie. I did not have a clue learn a bit at every club event. what Rock ‘n’ Roll was. Inflexion to socialise, for newer members communicated that it was special. to learn more about sea kayaking Thank you to those members that and for older members to catch have renewed in advance for 2017. Rock and Roll is an annual event up. When selecting a venue for I hope to see you all out on the big straddled over a weekend plus a this event we take into account the blue, even if it is grey. From the Editor’s Desk
If you’ve got a bit more time to RUBY ARDREN prepare, try to imagine how the Thank you to all who contributed image will look to December’s Salt! We’ve taken once it’s printed. a break from Tasmania in this Apply the rule issue, and given you an inspiring of thirds. Say collection of articles that cover both you have a boat sad and joyful occasions; how to’s on the water - on a range of topics; and local, construct your national and international trips. photo so that one The next issue of Salt magazine third is sky, and will be delivered at Rock ‘n’ Roll so one third water, please get your articles to me any with one third of time between now and the end of the photo taken January. up by the kayak and the person The two main elements of an article paddling (as in in Salt are the story itself and the the first photo images. Images do more than of Caoimhin). The water actually thirds of the space, but the horizon support your article – they create takes two-thirds of the photo, but and vegetation creates interest in interest, drawing the reader in and the subject is across the centre making them want to know more. the centre third. third. Notice his head is on the There are many ways to improve intersection of the horizontal and For a Salt cover, your image needs the images you use: here I will vertical third. It works well to place to have its focal point in the lower touch on composition. your focal point (a person, animal, third, as we need room for the title When we’re taking photos on a plant etc) one third of the space at the top. Sometimes we just have trip we’re usually on bouncy water in from any edge of the photo. In to work with what we have. The juggling paddle and camera, so it the second photo (Shuyak Island, cropping tool is our friend and can can be hard to get a great photo. Alaska), the sky makes up two- often make a good photo great!
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 4
The schedule of events will be Rock ‘n’ Roll 2017 similar to previous years: Friday: arrival and registration, informal trips (no organised trips Batemans Bay or training)
SIMON SWIFT Friday evening: welcome and light dinner supplied by Expedition Kayaks Saturday morning: registration, briefing, trips or training sessions Saturday afternoon: BBQ and off water training sessions Saturday night: dinner and speaker at the Catalina Country Club Sunday morning: briefing, trips or training sessions Sunday afternoon: off water training sessions Sunday evening: Pogies (a shameful rip off of the Logies with the paddlers showing videos of their trips in the hope of winning a prize – a lot of fun) Monday – informal trips
Paddle to the Tollgate Islands, The Beachside Resort is located There is a plan to set up a “Gear for learn to roll, rub shoulders with at Corrigans Beach, half way up Sale” area near the main marquee paddling legends and lots more at Batemans Bay giving easy access for those members that have next year’s Rock ’n’ Roll. This is our to paddling in the open sea, around surplus kayaking equipment they clubs premier event of the paddling the bay or up the Clyde River. The want to sell. year providing club members with bay has the spectacular Tollgate This event is run by volunteers the opportunity to meet like-minded Islands and kilometres of interesting who give their time to organise, people, experience a variety of coast line to explore. For a quieter manage the registration, run the great paddling destinations and paddle there is the Clyde River that beach marshalling, cook the BBQ, enhance their skills via a number of flows into the bay a short distance etc. Some of the volunteer positions on and off water training courses. from Corrigans Beach. have already been filled but we still need a few more. If you are The next Rock ‘n’ Roll will be held Registration for the event is $50 interested in helping with these at Batemans Bay over Friday 10 – with the Saturday night dinner at the Catalina Country Club an additional tasks, please contact Simon at Monday 13 March, 2017 based at [email protected]. Batemans Bay Beachside Resort $45 per head. The guest speaker (Ph 1800 217 533), which offers a for the Saturday night is yet to be Further details regarding Rock variety of powered and unpowered finalised. ‘n’ Roll will be published on the camping sites, cabins and studios. Registration for Rock ’n’ Roll will be NSWSKC website as it becomes available. Those wanting more than an open on the Club’s web site (www. unpowered camp site should book nswseakayaker.asn.au) from early sooner rather than later as this is 2017. Please note that you need to Image: The Blue Cave is a also a long weekend for residents of be a financial member of the club highlight of the Tollgate Islands the ACT. when you register for Rock ‘n’ Roll. in the right conditions
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 5 NSW Island Challenge
After the success of the Newcastle Sydney Wollongong challenge, a new challenge theme has been crafted - Circumnavigating Islands of NSW. Caoimhin Ardren has been busy checking the charts and identified up to 20 different island trips spanning almost the whole NSW Coastline. Each trip will aim to circumnavigate as many islands as possible. As trip leaders take up the challenge, individual trips will appear on the club event list. If you’ve been following trip notices on the website you’ll know a couple have already been put on, and we already have the most northerly and southerly ones covered! Due to their proximity to Batemans Bay, a couple of islands will be tackled during or immediately before or after Rock ‘n’ Roll next March. NSW Island Challenge trips already planned (or completed) include: Date Leader Island 30 Nov 2016 Nick Gill Wollongong Five Islands 10-11 Dec 2016 Josh Andrews Montague Island 29-30 Mar 2017 Adrian Clayton Islands of Sydney harbour, including an overnighter at Cockatoo Island 10-12 Jun 2017 Caoimhin Ardren Split Solitary and other Solitary islands off Coffs Harbour
Here is a list of other potential NSW Island Challenge trips: ••Lion Island (From Ettalong Beach / Palm Beach) ••Wedding Cake Island ••Bird Island (north of Norah Head) ••Moon Island off Swansea heads ••Fingal Island (Fingal Bay) ••Cabbage Tree, Little and Boondelbah Islands ••Broughton Island ••Green Island / Fish Rock off SW Rocks / Smokey Cape ••Julia Rocks off Byron Bay ••Drum and Drumstick (Beecroft) ••Bowen Island (Jervis Bay) ••Brush Island / Belowla Island - off Bawley Point /Kioloa Bay ••O’Hara and Dawson Islands - off Pretty Beach ••Grasshopper and Wasp island - off Durras (at RnR) ••Toll Gate islands - Batemans Bay (at RnR) ••Jimmies Island - Guerilla bay (at RnR)
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 6 7
Obituary Mick MacRobb
ROB MERCER
I first met Mick many years ago a sweep or tail end paddler, picking Mick’s yarns from these and many on the south coast at a NSW Sea up tips for his own kayak guiding other facets of his fascinating life Kayak Club Rock ‘n’ Roll weekend. along the way but also just to learn were never boastful and just as He was paddling a boat he had new techniques. likely to focus on some simple but made from plywood packing cases amusing detail. He had the rare gift Mick’s support for community with a paddle made from recycled to see the extraordinary within the groups and clubs meant that many building timber. He seemed to enjoy ordinary, to celebrate the nuances a raffle was boosted by the donation the boat not just for it’s good sea of life in a world of overstatement manners but also for the fact that of a Flat Earth Sail and even if it and to do so with his trademark he had produced such a useful, wasn’t a kayaking group needing humility and humour. He didn’t treat effective craft from little more than a sail to raffle he would turn his his dyslexia as a barrier but rather unwanted scrap simply by the direct hand to just about any practical just as another way of seeing the application of skill and know how. task that wasn’t already covered, world, he had an enquiring mind from operating a radio to setting and broad tastes in philosophy, More often than not when the up a marquee; always with the literature and music. Mick’s great EK team arrived to present, same quiet, capable, no nonsense mate John Woollard, in his fine exhibit or coach at any significant approach. tribute shared the story of how gathering of kayakers, anywhere the Flat Earth brand had come on the expansive East Coast of Mick was a raconteur in the truest into being during an amusing and Australia, Mick would be there, sense and would share stories whimsical discussion on a quiet in the beginning with a few home and ideas drawn from his personal tropical beach with Mick playfully made items to sell, but ultimately as experiences. He was an outdoor defending the theory that the Earth an exhibitor with his own range of educator, directing programs in was indeed flat! equipment and especially his sails. hiking, climbing, caving, whitewater, He hit it off so well with Sharon and diving and sea kayaking but he had One rain-swept morning whilst Mark and I that we often combined also been a printer, a champion in trapped weathering a storm under forces sharing display spaces, more the sport of fencing, an armorer, our tarp, watching gale force winds so we could enjoy one another’s a drogue maker, sail maker, a ripping the tops off the waves just company than for any serious builder of movie sets, a designer of across the beach, Mick regaled us business reason. When we had theatrical costumes, a coastguard with a tale of the trials of working on-water activities to present Mick crewman and even a bushfire as a dyslexic printer on a rural would often back us up helping as fighter rappelling from helicopters. newspaper, especially when the
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 6 7
editor and typesetter were called the paddler and allowing them more stable and predictable whilst they away and he had to finish the copy foredeck space for the full range of focus on paddling, navigating and for them! The story was so funny strokes. just generally making sea miles. I and told with such candour that I With his usual humility Mick was know Mick was thrilled to see his almost fell off my chair and out into always keen to point out that his sail sails being used on so many of the deluge. was based on the earlier work of serious expeditions and he watched This was on a week-long trip, and Norm Sanders who was one of the with pride as the images poured in included some of the wildest and first to move the sail forward and it from all over the globe. I also know most exciting sailing conditions any is true that Norm’s combination of how much it meant to him to see of us had experienced. At one stage lines, stays and mast fittings solved images of happy day-trippers after Mick managed to untangle and re- a problem that was holding a lot of their first paddle/sail with the wind at rig the sail of our less experienced potential kayak sailors back, but for their back. mate after he had capsized. Mick the Flat Earth story this was only I have paddled thousands of did this whilst rafted up in heavy the beginning. seas and strong winds, he did kilometres with a Flat Earth Sail For over a decade Mick patiently it quickly and easily so we were on my deck, in heavy weather refined and improved every aspect surfing the big waves northwards and sea breezes, riding trade of his Flat Earth design responding again in no time. Mick knew we winds to tropical islands far over to input from the paddling didn’t really need to sail in these the horizon or big swells in cool community and surprising everyone conditions, we would have made Tasmanian waters, I have felt the with his simple elegant solutions. good speed anyway, but that wasn’t hull humming, as wave after wave Under his steady hand the sails the point, this was all about the slides effortlessly under me with the became ever easier to use yet more thrill of sailing in strong winds, just salt spray stinging my face. I have efficient, offering less setup time, because we could. seen time and again the equalizing less tangles when learning and Long before Mick or I started more speed from small, simple rigs. effect of these sails in helping to paddling, Tasmanian Sea Kayakers Interestingly, the needs of serious keep groups together and lightening had been fierce advocates for expeditioners on long trips are heavy loads on long days at sea. use of sails on their kayaks but it often quite similar to those of newer As always I look forward eagerly to remained a very fringe activity on paddlers on more modest ventures, my next adventure and as the sail the mainland until universal joints they all want the extra drive from snaps taut and the boat accelerates and up-haul lines were added to the sail without fuss or complexity, I will remember good times with move the sail towards the bow, they don’t want the sail to be a Mick; his pirate’s chuckle, a twinkle keeping boom and rigging clear of distraction but they do want it to be in his eye and a story to tell.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 8
The finish on 2 November 2016 on Saibai Island (image Brett Charles) “Never Forget Your Dreams” A Journey Complete
DEE RATCLIFFE
If “a journey of a thousand miles country and last before Australia, began to use local support boats begins with the single step” (Lao was to prove a formidable challenge to shadow her, providing protection Tzu), how does a journey of 23,000 to this resourceful and resilient from unwanted attention. The crews kilometres end? kayaker. PNG was perhaps the of these boats were challenged to travel at kayak speed and to kayak- Well, with a triumphant last set of most challenging of the countries, friendly landings. Their behaviour paddle strokes gliding towards the throwing all manner of obstacles at occasionally brought headaches, finish banner. Having started in Sandy. She faced them all down, heartache and stress to Sandy Germany on 14 May 2011, Sandy sometimes calling out on social as some crews surreptitiously Robson completed her Oskar Speck media for ideas and input, always took equipment and put their own Expedition at Saibai Island in the working with those around her to preferences ahead of their role with Torres Strait on 2 November 2016. find a way ahead. her. Yet with much support from Only 5km from Papua New Guinea Starting in Papua New Guinea local communities, organisations as the crow flies, this northernmost in May 2016, Sandy dealt easily and companies, she journeyed on. outpost of Australia marked the end with the natural and predictable Following too much in Oskar’s steps of her five and a half year quest to challenges of headwinds and strong when she also contracted malaria, retrace the route of Oskar. currents. It was the human element Sandy took a short break from After five years in five stages with that brought strife. Following kayaking and travelled to Cairns three kayaks along 18 countries, harassment while on the waters for medical treatment and recovery Papua New Guinea, the 19th off the northern coast of PNG, she time.
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 9
Despite these extra burdens, Sandy landed and slept. Finally, a link to was the one that would see her used her regular online posts to that other kayaker, the one who was to the finish line. And just as she continue highlighting concerns her inspiration. crossed from PNG to Saibai, his about how plastic waste is being sail aloft, Mick MacRobb was being Then all went quiet with her internet disposed. She met an array of posts for well over a week, as she remembered at a memorial service colourful peoples, often landing to and her support crew navigated in Victoria. He had been taken too processions and ceremonies by and crossed the big river deltas and early, before Sandy could thank him locals in their traditional dress. She dealt with yet more challenges: the for all his friendship and support. was greeted, hosted and cared for creeks populated by crocodiles, the That day, the worldwide kayaking by many locals who openly shared mud that held fast to body and craft. community both mourned and their villages with her. Sandy’s She made it to Daru and worldly cheered. photos tell the story of how life is connections again. This was her Smiling as the first sights of her lived in villages along the PNG final place before the crossing to the approach to Saibai were reported coast, often set in stunning scenery. 20th country, to Australia, to home. online, cheering as the first Sandy gained much coverage in Yet, the tough times were not yet photos of her hugs with her father, local media e.g. TV, newspapers, over. Now, on one of her final nights Gordon Robson, were posted, and was presented with many gifts. in PNG, the high jinks of her support Sandy’s followers delighted in her The low moments were balanced crew caused more grief for Sandy; achievement, her tenacity, her with special highlights: meeting with hotel management and guests were strength, her openness and her Sir Michael Somare (prime Minister less than impressed with their antics happiness. of PNG from 2002 to 2011), and in and looked accusingly to Sandy for The article title comes from the what must have been the highlight this disturbance of the peace. t-shirt that Gordon Robson was of the whole expedition, finding Then, with great poignancy, she wearing on the day that Sandy and making a direct connection suffered the loss of a friend and reached Saibai. A little internet to the journey of Oskar Speck. In a sponsor. In June 2016, Sandy Googling has revealed its source: Vanimo, she spoke to 84 year old had fitted a new Flat Earth sail to Joachim Tekwie who had met with her kayak. The sail was from Mick https://looktruenorth.com/index. Oskar Speck in April 1939. Joachim MacRobb; this sail was one of many php/2016/10/02/never-forget-your- showed Sandy where Oskar had that he had provided her with, it dreams/
Clockwise from top left: With Michael Somare (image Sandy), Oskar Speck, in Bangladesh by Khandakar Rahman, in PNG (image Sandy). NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 10 th 40
This photo provided by Steve Hitchcock epitomises how most paddlers feel, even the fast ones, at the end of the Hawkesbury Classic. Happy but in need of aid to exit their kayak. The 40th Hawkesbury Canoe Classic was a special one, not just because it was one of the darkest nights in its history. A new shorter race was introduced - the 65km Wiseman’s Dash from Windsor to Wiseman’s Ferry. Dragon boats were allowed to enter the race for the first time, and the starts were condensed to between 4-5pm instead of 4-6pm. Here are a few accounts of the race.
Standing proud before the race with then, race entry and Brian Burke and Wendy Marceau Steve Hitchcock sponsorship required paper Second time around, 14 correspondence, compared years later, what’s new? to the online process now. Well, I’ve upgraded my kayak I recall pretty good race to a Mirage 530 and acquired organisation 14 years a new aero paddle. Plus, ago, but it was impeccable regular trips and training with this year with hundreds the NSW Sea Kayak Club of volunteer helpers. PFD over the last few years must checking has become a surely have improved my purely visual inspection performance. Some unkind compared to the thorough souls suggested that being dunking it was subjected 14 years older might negate to last time. In 2016 I had these aesthetic changes. an expert Brian and Wendy Well, I had to prove them landcrew, diligently preparing wrong. hot soup, dry clothes and water top-ups at each stop. Comparing my paperwork Contrast that to 2002 when between 2002 and now my non-kayaking friends showed some interesting over-slept between Sackville differences. My training and Wisemans Ferry. hours this year were definitely longer, including However the most noticeable several eight-hour daytime change was how many more paddles and a few decent paddlers are doing faster night-time paddles. Back times.
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 11
Compare my Men’s Veteran 50+ – that’s faster than the average the same categories as the MREC MREC group. Average time in 2002 speed of the whole Brooklyn or Bust or LREC classes, but with superior was 13 hours 40 mins, this year group of 2002! training, performance and hull it was down to 11 hours 25 mins, designs, the Hawkesbury Canoe Are we all paddling 10 to 20 percent that’s 17 percent faster. The Men’s Classic has fundamentally changed. faster? Well yes, but not in the Veteran 50+ LREC group was down The majority of vessels are not same boats. What is not stated from 13 hours to 10 hours 40 mins, really canoes any more. that’s 20 percent faster. Even the in these results is the significant Brooklyn or Bust group was faster, changes that have occurred with So back to my performance, and down from 14 hours 50 mins to our boats. In 2002 I recall many sea thankfully the advantages of the 13 hours 10 mins, ie 11 percent kayaks starting in my group. This fancy new sea kayak and NSWSKC faster. And of course stand-up year, at the 5pm start time, the three experience outweighed the paddleboards didn’t even exist as of sea kayakers were practically left disadvantage of an ageing body - I a racing group 14 years ago. This standing as the skis pulled away proudly wiped one hour off my PB. year the average time of the six from us. In fact most of the 5pm If I continue the 14-year trend, I’ll SUP finishers was 13 hours 50 mins group were in skis. They still fall into achieve around 12 hours in 2030.
of community with darkness during this leg. It that the event wasn’t an issue for me as I used engenders. MBSDS* (as opposed to GPS) in conjunction with the official race I had hopes of maps (modified) to negotiate the completing the twist and turns in the river in the distance in around inky blackness. 11 hours, which was highly dependent on A couple of paddling mates outside getting good wash of the Club, Lothar Metzner and Phil rides throughout. Wicks, formed my land crew. They My strategy was were HCC novices but did a sterling thwarted right from job. I need to thank Rae Duffy for the start because I her help in my preparation and didn’t realise that I Trevor Waters for his support during was carting a good the race. deal of weed with * Matt Bezzina Spray Deck System my rudder for the (patents pending?) (see image first four or five below). kilometres and thus expended more energy trying to keep up. Despite leaving Sackville only a couple of minutes behind schedule I arrived at Adrian Clayton Wisemans Ferry nearly half an hour later than planned. This was caused Not sure what to say about the by underestimating the impact of 40th HCC. A bit disappointed in the incoming tide coupled with an my performance given the prep I’d unscheduled five minute stop to fix put into the event. The upsides: my hydration system at Point F. negotiating the challenges of a A 30 minute break at Wisemans very dark night without incident; and agreeing to accompany another the light show put on by the paddler for the 40 kilometres to the phosphorescence streaming off finish had me taking a tad over 13 the bow and blades coupled with hours to complete the event. a clear star-lit sky in the pre-dawn light; experiencing the great sense I think a lot of paddlers struggled
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 12
Ruby Ardren Oh my, the darkness! The number of people I heard/ saw bumping into things in the night. You would see two cyalumes (glow sticks) ahead of you on the river and it was impossible to tell whether it was two boats or one boat sideways, which is critical information when shooting down the river at 10km/hr. I managed to avoid the pontoons, trees, buoys and boats to finish the race in a very similar time to last year. I was very happy with my result on handicap, and I’m pretty proud to have completed five events. I keep coming back to this race because of the fitness benefits, my improved ability to talk myself out of needing to go to the toilet, see things in the dark (real or imagined), bonuses like the companionship in the lead up to and endure storms. I no longer get nauseous during the and during the race and the bio-luminescent algae race, and this year I didn’t even get a sore bum (with no that were prolific from Spencer; apparently safe to padding on my seat) or a single blister. There are added swim in but avoid the shellfish that eat it!
John Duffy I really look forward to each year’s HCC but I can say I didn’t enjoy this one as much. I take the preparation seriously (probably too seriously) and do lots of long sessions but I had lots of problems with my seating and that detracted from the exhilaration of completing another one. No excuses. I didn’t find the darkness too bad although not taking the sharp right after Low Tide Pitstop and instead going straight suggests even experienced HCC’ers get caught out when exhausted. It was great to see the extra numbers this year and that the event still has a lot of life in it. I also thought the compressed start worked well, as boats were less spread out and there was usually somebody close by to talk to. I’ll be back. 2016 Results Name Class Boat Time Ruby Ardren WVet40+ LREC Elliots Renegade 11:03:40 Mark Clarkson BoB Mirage 580 15:07:12 Adrian Clayton MVet60+ UN1 Valley Rapier 13:07:24 John Duffy MVet50+ UN1 Sladecraft Sonic 11:22:12 Steve Hitchcock MVet50+ MREC Mirage 530 13:13:26 Andrew Kucyper BoB Mirage 580 18:23:15 Rodrigo Matamala Open ORS1 Think Uno Max 10:01:12 Rob Mercer MVet50+ LREC Sladecraft SLR 10:15:10 Cathy Miller LVet50+ LREC Mirage 583 13:46:48 Anne Moore (with Sue Smith) LVet50+ K2 K2 Didn’t finish Mark Sundin MVet40+ LREC Sladecraft SLR 10:15:59 Martin Vanderpoel BoB Mirage 580 11:52:36 Caroline Marschner Wisemans Dash (65 km) Q-Kayaks Penguin 10:15:00 Dirk Schneider Wisemans Dash (65 km) Q-Kayaks Penguin 10:15:00 Meg Thornton (with Trina Whittaker) Wiseman’s Dash (65 km) Mirage 680 08:52:00
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 13
a time of 10:15, and had no serious Mark ‘Have you tried back paddling’ Rob Mercer aches or pains when I woke up Paddler ‘Yes but I’m too far up I only bought the SLR1 about the next day. My hydration and between the branches’ a month out and I must admit I nutrition worked well and my focus wasn’t sure I would compete until on form over winter, especially on Mark ‘OK, I’ll come alongside and just before the race as I only had the ski, had allowed me to get away see if I can free you up’ four training sessions in the boat with very little flat water distance I pulled alongside one gunwale and beforehand. These four sessions training. I am not really sure I know the tree blocked me from getting were the only flat water practice how to avoid running into things closer, so backed up and came that I did for the race so I was really in the intense darkness out on the along the opposite side. depending on my regular sea kayak river but now I have year to work on and ski paddling for general fitness. Mark (in best I’m-in-charge-now- it and a target time to better. I also had encouragement and mate-do-as-I-say voice) ‘OK, I’m paddling tips from Mark and also going to lean over your deck and try the Sutherland Shire Canoe Club’s and prise your boat out backwards’ Hawkesbury paddlers, especially Paddler ‘Who is this?’ Bob Turner whose advice on how to This is an excerpt from Mark’s full approach the race was invaluable account of his HCC paddle on the Mark ‘I’m Mark’ EK Blog at and Steve Dawson who helped me Paddler (chuckling) ‘Mr Sundin!’ with navigation. www.expeditionkayaks.com Mark ‘Who’s this’ Low points: Before Wiseman’s I Paddler ‘It’s Rob!’ was jammed in the fork of a tree Mark Sundin for around 10 minutes and later, A healthy dose of hilarity ensued, with less than 10 km to go, I hit At about 45km I ducked under firstly because it was so dark we a jetty forcing me to capsize and a branch that my cyalume light couldn’t see one another, and costing me more time wading illuminated dull green moments secondly because we were so ashore to empty the cockpit and before it would have coat-hangered bloody frazzled by near enough to unsuccessfully search for my GPS, me, and on the other side of the 50km of effort that we didn’t even hydration packs and hat. tree there was a boat stopped dead. recognise one another’s voices! It In fact it didn’t even look like it was just goes to show you where the High points: The sights, smells and floating. I asked the paddler if he sounds of the river, the buzz of race takes you mentally. Eventually was okay, and he said ‘actually not we freed Rob’s bow from the paddling in groups and watching the really’. light slowly fade out of the sky. The oversized slingshot frame he’d wonderful smiles and enthusiasm The conversation from there went perfectly bisected, and took off of land crew (thanks Suzanne) like this: together to make up lost time, after I reminded him that those seven and volunteers, and the hypnotic Mark ‘Can I help you’ bobbing and weaving of other minutes he’d lost I was gonna get paddler’s cyalumes, as we passed Paddler ‘Yes, I think you’ll have to, back on recourse for assisting a one another in the inky darkness. I’m stuck hard in a tree’ stricken paddler! Discovering the voice of the guy who helped dislodge my boat from the fork of a tree actually belonged my mate and business partner Mark Sundin. Coffee and bacon and egg roll at the finish (thanks Davlin). Receiving the news that the GPS I lost during the jetty altercation had been found by Greg Hillier on his way down the river. It was my first HCC in a single and considering how eventful the evening turned out to be I was happy with
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 14 Rolling Practice in the Heart of Winter
ADRIAN CLAYTON
During July and August this year the Bezzina an opportunity to further Club conducted five mid-week two- their experience in providing rolling hour evening pool rolling sessions. tuition. Four were held at the Sans Souci Supplementing this article is a Leisure Centre on the Georges first-hand account of the sessions indoor heated pool rolling sessions River and one was at the Valentine he attended by Alastair Morris, Pools complex on Lake Macquarie. then a better venue needs to be whose roll is a work in progress. found. If you have any suggestions Both of the pools were heated. Much of Alastair’s article reflects the More than 20 Club members (some please let the Club’s Training feedback provided by many of the Coordinator, Nick Blacklock, know. of whom backed up for multiple other participants – particularly in sessions) took advantage of the respect of the merit of the sessions opportunity. and wanting to see them offered Images below: Caroline Marschner The participants each had different again on the Club’s winter training pulls off her first roll at the Sans Souci objectives for the sessions they program. pool; Mark Clarkson working on his attended. Some wanted to work Of the two venues used, the Pawlata roll in the Valentine pool on improving the reliability of their Valentine Pools complex was existing rolls while others chose to the more suitable. Apart from work on developing new rolls. There being cheaper to hire, the were a small number of non-rollers pool space allowed us to have who came along to be exposed five kayaks in the water at to the dark arts of rolling for the the same time compared with first time. All made encouraging three at San Souci. There were progress and at least one was other aspects regarding the rolling with good form at the end of Sans Souci pool, which make the sessions. it unlikely that we will use it Some participants were provided again. If the Club is to continue with video clips of their rolls on offering Sydney-based winter the night for the purpose of self- evaluation and allowing comparison with the rolls demonstrated in The Kayak Roll training video at a later time. Post-session feedback has indicated that being able to do such a review proved to be a very effective way of identifying specific areas where more work needs to be done to improve technique. Each session had at least two of the Club’s instructors present to offer advice or provide tuition – Harry Havu (“…the tall very calm gentleman…”), Megan Pryke, Campbell Tiley and I each attended at least one session. The sessions also provided Sea Instructor candidates Chuck Murphy, Tony Murphy and Matt
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 15
a beautiful roll sprang to mind all in Fast forward to the following the comfort of a heated pool. Reality session - again I was lucky enough In Pursuit hits later on. to be allocated a place, again Harry was my instructor, again he was We met in Sans Souci at the terrific. Again I made the novice of the Holy appointed hour and were given a mistakes -- but then again that is briefing about the night, reasons what learners do. I’m sure all this why the Club selected this particular sounds familiar to those that have Grail roll to teach, and what could gone before and now seem to pop realistically be achieved based on up like corks after the world spins ALASTAIR MORRIS an individual’s starting point. My 180 degrees. aim was to learn the basics and be able to get into a good starting I didn’t manage a roll but do feel position hopefully achieving some that I can move on and practice kind of roll with a variable degree of on my own, preferably in a mate’s In my mind being able to roll your assistance. heated swimming pool! kayak is up there with finding the holy grail (sea kayaking now being My instructor was Harry Havu. It must have been very difficult for elevated to a spiritual experience!). Harry was terrific and I can’t thank the Club to set up these sessions So it was with great interest that I him enough for his patience, and I was frankly amazed to get a read a club email announcing rolling encouragement and advice. Steps place when someone pulled out. classes in a heated indoor pool. in the process were approached in Commercially you would be looking calm logical fashion and I always at $150-$200 a head for this type I applied on the off-chance that a felt that with Harry’s guidance a of tuition in the harbour – let alone place would become available as I roll could eventually be achieved. in a pool. That so many instructors am a novice roller and the sessions However, as a novice it’s not were prepared to give up their were primarily aimed at existing surprising that the novice mistakes time to teach again demonstrates rollers being able to practise. quickly began to appear. Harry the passion that they have and However, luck was on my side, remained calm and optimistic. willingness to pass on advice to less somebody pulled out and I was in. I remained optimistic but a bit skilled members. I can’t recommend Adrian Clayton, the activity frustrated. Then frustrated. Harry this experience enough and hope coordinator, recommended viewing still remained calm and optimistic. it becomes a regular feature in the Club’s teaching program. The Kayak Roll video before The pool had to be vacated by 8pm attending the session. I had bought and to be honest I think as much Anyone in the Club able to this DVD many years ago so it was progress had been made by then as volunteer a 20-metre pool in their dusted down, viewed and visions of was going to be made that night. back yard? Saltiest submission WINNER Selim Tezcan, the winner of the Head was a cracker, so they are ‘Saltiest Article’ from Salt #102 has awarding him a $100 voucher for been unable to collect his prize Vaikobi paddle wear. yet, as he’s off paddling in exotic On behalf of the club, thanks to locations overseas. Rob Mercer and Mark Sundin Mark and Rob thought Selim’s of Expedition Kayaks for their article about the damaging effects generous donation.Don’t forget, of being relegated to the ‘slow another winner will be selected group’ on the NSW Challenge from this edition. May the saltiest paddle from Terrigal to Norah submitter succeed!
EXPEDITION KAYAKS Drop in anytime from 0830 to 3/185 Port Hacking Road, Miranda, NSW 2228 1800 Monday to Fridays. Phone (612) 9559 8688 or mob 0417 924 478
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 16
How I Ended Up on a Crocodile-Infested Beach My Navigation Mistake
MEGAN PRYKE
South Mission encountered populated South Mission Beach Beach anywhere was Hull Heads. Around the same along my trip. I Tam O’Shanters time, I did see the real Hull Head reasoned that houses which looked like fishing Kennedy Bay rivers equal shacks. Like dominos, one wrong Hull Heads estuaries, which assumption resulted in more. I then means reasoned that the Hull River mouth Dashed line is the estuarine extent of my map would be north of Tam O’Shanter crocodiles. I Tully Heads Point. Hull Heads I thought was was certain there would be a Tully Heads. The mouth of the Tully greater likelihood was not easily discernable. It all 20 kilometres of resident made sense at the time. However, salties along the I did not realise the divergence of mainland coast, my intended course created by the especially with current. It was when I could see more than one cows on the beach dunes that I river mouth. noticed my kayak side slewing. This map shows Options to monitor the current were Direct bearing 334 T the northern Estimated actual limited. There were no distinct o extent of my track coastal hills. The cloud shrouded map and the mountains were beyond the coastal direct bearing I plain, thus not on my map. Islands had noted in red. The purple line had been my best clue for transit is my estimated lines to date. The islands and rough actual route. I seas were behind me. Not capsizing intended to head was more important to me than In Townsville, I split my supplies straight west to Tully Heads from looking back to analyse a transit line into two piles: those to take on my Wheeler Island. I accounted for or angle from the islands. “Tropo Solo” trip (see the article in minus seven degrees for magnetic Excuses aside, my piloting skills this magazine) and a replenishment variation. Although tricky to keep were well exercised during my trip. pile. I left my laminated map of the an eye on my deck compass it was However, I failed a navigational Family Islands in the second pile, always south of west. I was 20 km challenge posed by my lousy map! which was a bad move. from the Hinchinbrook Channel where the tidal current can be up to Lessons learnt and reinforced: Long before my last day, when three knots at a pinch point. studying my map, I realised that ••Never rely only on GPS. With twenty-twenty hindsight, I arriving at Tully Heads could be a ••Tidal currents can remain strong realise that I would not have seen navigation challenge. I had looked near a shoreline. at satellite photos at home, but South Mission Beach houses from ••Take maps / charts that extend these were a distant memory. Did Wheeler Island due to Richard Island being in the foreground. beyond your planned route, Tully Heads have buildings on the As I knew the Hull Heads had a especially in unfamiliar areas. coast? My GPS was dead. Coast Guard station, although I had ••Never be truly lost and never be I could head west from Goold Island never heard of Hull Heads before certain of where you are. and use the mainland coast as a trip planning, I assumed it was a handrail, but I was not keen on this bigger than the town of Tully Heads. Oh yes, and Kennedy Bay is idea. Crocodiles could have been I wrongly concluded that more allegedly home to a large croc!
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 17 Emergency + App
STEVE HITCHCOCK
This App was designed and to help save bushwalkers lost or launched in Australia in December injured in NSW. I’m sure it’s only a 2013 by Australia’s emergency matter of time before this expands services together with and endorsed to other hobbyists, travellers and by Government and industry sporting codes. I suggest you partners. It is a free download for download the App, get yourself a iPhones, androids and windows reliable waterproof phone case, phones that offers an alternative to and add this to your kayaking dialing 000. emergency toolkit. Using the App links you Official Website Lost Bushwalker automatically to the 000 emergency http://emergencyapp.triplezero.gov. September 2016 services for the voice call, but also au provides on your screen the latitude A lost bushwalker and longitude coordinates, so you Official YouTube Demo has been rescued can tell them exactly where you are. http://youtu.be/hThHoRNhEnQ after police convinced her to It uses the same GPS functionality Author’s Note download and use a GPS- built into smartphones that ordinarily locator app on her smartphone. provides directions in Google Maps, At this stage, the demo indicates Police were called to the Mooray to provide this location information that you, the caller, have to read walking track at Heathcote, to you. So even if you don’t know out the coordinates to the 000 NSW, following reports of a lost exactly where you are, your smart operator. They currently state that bushwalker at about 6pm on a phone does, and you can convey technical issues prevent that data Sunday evening. this to the 000 operator. That automatically being sent to them. makes it easier and quicker for They also suggest that this will Police contacted the 56-year- the appropriate services to deal be resolved in later updates, as old woman and dispatchers with your situation. And as we all seems to have occurred in other convinced her to download know, every second counts in a true jurisdictions. the Emergency+ App on her emergency. smartphone so emergency services could get her exact GPS Given that most emergency calls co-ordinates. are now made using mobile phones, then there is ample potential for “Having the exact GPS co- faster responses as telephone ordinates from the Emergency+ callers switch to using the App. App impacted our response time For outside sports enthusiasts significantly,” Inspector Mick like kayakers, this is a very useful Merrett of Miranda Local Area starting position for any potential Command said in a statement. contact with emergency services. “The App works in both urban Obviously if you’re well out of and rural areas and we mobile range, then it’s no good encourage everybody that owns a – but neither is your phone. The smartphone to download the App, App works wherever you are in particularly outdoor enthusiasts Australia, so providing you can get such as bushwalkers.” enough signal to make a call (even if it drops in and out), then there will After getting her location from be enough data to determine your the Emergency+ App, police position, which will be invaluable were able to establish a concise information to pass on to start a search area in order to find the search. woman and reunite her with her concerned family. I have read a number of stories where the App has been used
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 18 Surfing and Rolling with Sea Kayaks (a one-eyed view)
VINCENT WEAFER closest to them and neglect surf Floating breaks. Surfboard riders tend to Catching I have owned and surfed in cluster around car access points. increasing order of ‘surfability’ the I like lots of different kayaking but We can paddle to ‘our breaks’. following plastic kayaks - Valley my favourite is surf kayaking….and There does seem to be a level of Nordkapp, Necky Elaho, P&H rolling. inexperience in the surf, judging by Delphin and my current boat, a P&H I usually surf beach breaks and comments at the last Rock n Roll Hammer. point breaks close to home from surf session… Plastic boats are pretty hard to one foot to eight feet – depending There is also a sensual soothing break but I have had seats and on the wave and how it is breaking, element to catching waves – you sterns repaired. I start feeling ‘uncomfortable’ six are out in the elements…. sea, sky, feet and above. I’m blessed in that Rudders - even in parked position, spray, sun, dolphins, sharks, back-lit usually ‘my surf’ is uncrowded and are a weak point in surf. tubes (maybe)…’tis good for the the surfers and I seem to have an Skegs when parked won’t be soul and a remedy for our crazy understanding. damaged. They have limited value Kardashian-smitten, pixel addicted in the surf when deployed. Persuading culture. Surfing in a sea kayak is great Defining Generally shorter boats are easier practice, as it rapidly increases to turn and also easier to kick off the your skills in dynamic water and If you trawl around the internet wave at the end of the ride. will make you more confident in there seems to be a range of loose Hull shapes – surfable boats tend beach landings and exits as well as definitions for kayak surfing: to have sharper chines and flatter paddling in moving water generally. ••catching chop or swells in a bottoms. Sharper chines will turn following sea (surf skis like Epics It’s also a good way to maintain faster. and Fenns) paddle fitness and stay in tune with Rocker – Surfable boats have more your boat – you can burn off a lot ••catching the foam towards the rocker (like a banana), with a kick of energy in a short time leaving beach up at the ends. A more pronounced the rest of your day free…to do ••catching standing waves (google kick up at the bow will help prevent whatever you do when you’re not ‘skookumchuck pygmy’) pearling and endos, especially on kayaking (there must be something late take-offs with pitching waves. •• a plunging wave with a feathering if you think hard enough). lip and clean surfable face where Slow boats – with you in a ‘surfable’ Bay side and harbour side surfers you can turn (my preferred option sea kayak, on a longer trip your tend to keep to the calmer waters but not Teahupoʻo). paddling companions will quickly
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 19
morph into distant specks on the type cockpits with adjustable Large Face Paddles – as above and horizon way way ahead of you… thigh braces, ratchet seat band probably more likely to break in a sob. Sod ‘em, abandon them adjustors and a foot plate instead heavy wipeout. I have noticed surf and go surfing instead …or rock of foot pegs. kayakers in surf kayaks (such as gardening. •• You will have more water made by Mega and Random) use these……I’m at a loss. Rock boats – surfable boats, swooshing between your skin especially plastic, double their fun and anything you wear, so you Greenland Paddles – harder to value, as they tend to suit rock will need good seals at wrists catch the wave but the tapering gardening or any environment and neck (the Australian Fur convex foiled face gives a large where there is moving water. Seal (Arctocephalus pusillus) is amount of control on the wave face generally well behaved). A light Google ‘Neptune Rangers’ or and while rolling. Probably less neoprene surfing top also works ‘Hurricane Riders’. Those ‘over likely to break or pop a shoulder well. A sun/rash top will work the horizon touring types’/‘your ex as it’s a ‘skinny stick.’ All the truly like a canvas water bag quickly paddling companions’ are really enlightened paddlers use these. chilling you. That ‘getting warm’ missing out here. Gearlab Nukilik – is my current feeling you sometimes get when favoured Greenland paddle for Evolving paddling for a time probably won’t surfing – the shoulders give you a happen. Surf kayaks are short, have rocker, quick tactile ‘location’ point for your a flat bottom and have fins – I can’t •• I have a helmet but rarely wear hands. I also like the replaceable plastic tips and the pretty colours. wait to see what Santa will bring me it. Yeah, yeah…if you don’t this year…. I’ve been ever so good. need a brain, you don’t need a Breakages are more likely in more helmet. Around other surfing sea energetic conditions, yet I have Outfitting kayakers, I reach for it; too many broken paddles in small stuff without •• Ensure nothing is going to wash long boats spoil the broth. hitting anything solid. A more robust off your deck. •• I have a paddle leash attached, and shorter paddle may be a better •• A quality skirt – whitewater skirts which is against current best choice than your ‘gram shy’ carbon are less likely to ‘pop’. practice. Forgive me. fibre ‘precious’ wand. •• Bring your seat forward as this Stroking (more shoaling Rolling makes it easier to catch the wave. ground here…) As per the title you can’t really •• Ensure your hatches are in good Wing – never tried it while surfing separate the rolling from the surfing. condition and well-sealed. but the scoop in the paddle face You will need to be able to roll and •• You need to be snug in your boat. won’t lend itself to control while the need will happen quickly and Some boats have whitewater moving quickly over a wave face. unexpectedly.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 20
A surfable kayak with its more Greenland paddle has the further sometimes I extend too much) and angular hull cross section may be advantage of being unfeathered and keeping muscle tone around your more difficult to roll. the same front and back, left and shoulders is a form of protection. I dislike the term a ‘bombproof roll’, right. Come up smiling. Sharing as it conjures images of a roll that Finessing A lot of surf beaks have many will never fail. Sooner or later for a Consider starting out small in people on various surf craft vying whole host of reasons your roll will uncrowded conditions – ‘read the for too few waves – try surfing mid- fail. I average (touch wood) a failed week or very early or very late.As a roll once a year. water’ with contingency plans in mind. paddler you have the ability to grab I also dislike the term ‘combat roll’ more than your fair share. Be cool, as it seems adversarial and stress. Take the time to watch a break play nice and perhaps consider only You’re not trying to fight the water – before venturing out - long period going for the waves that no one else relax – it’s just a stroke which slowly swells can have long lulls between can get. sets twirls the boat. Have an awareness of where Chances are you won’t set up See where you can paddle out, your kayak may end up if you get above water, and you may be ‘rag usually in rips…… and away from caught inside by a sneaker set or dolled’ underwater and disoriented. other beach users wipe out – surfers with their ‘duck diving’ low profiles tend to pop Wait for the water to lose aeration Lean forward when catching the up unexpectedly. Despite all your and turbulence. Stay calm, and wave, and then lean back as you winning ways and charming smiles, wait…and wait. After the long angle down the wave face – you are you may not be invited back to wait, your PFD will float you trying to maximise your time going anyone’s place after the surf. up. Try for an awareness of the across the face (and some turns paddle’s face angle – rotate it so would look good) with maybe a kick Kicking Out it is perpendicular to the water’s out at the end. surface, you will rise faster, and a Surfing in your kayak is absolutely slap on the surface with the flat of In a heavy wipeout I sometimes worth doing – you will notice an the paddle (once you are there) hold onto the paddle with one hand improvement in your kayaking/ before you slightly twist it for the which can reduce ‘rag dolling’ – a paddling in a relatively short time sweep is helpful. firm two handed grip while being and may have a lot of fun and even pulled underwater can break your consider a more surfable kayak to I usually do a half-pawlatta paddle. add to your quiver! Greenland roll – this is a low energy roll which works for me over a Protect your shoulders, locking in Sorry - my Delphin is sold. variety of boats and paddles. The supported low or high braces (yeah
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT Club Trips 21
New and Old members paddle Cowan Creek
KAREN DARBY, WITH IMAGES BY CLAUS BUSSELER
The idea was for a relaxed paddle boats Cowan Creek is pretty quiet from Apple Tree Bay boat ramp in these days. Cowan Creek. Our trip leader Tony The weather gods looked kindly on Murphy wanted to run a paddle that our paddle. It was August and we on the other side of Cowan Creek new members could participate in. had a chilly start at the boat ramp. a sunny beach beckoned so we We ended up with a good mix of However the day was sunny and long term and newer club members. agreed to paddle an extra kilometre perfect for winter paddling once out or two and headed to the sunny Low tide would be around 11.12 am of the shade. side of the creek. so the plan was to head out with Selim was a late cancellation due assistance from the ebb tide and The lunch stop at Cottage Rock to issues with his kayak racks. Note come back with the flood tide. The made a really attractive spot for a to anyone else planning trips out of planned distance was 20 km return break. At low tide there was enough Apple Tree Bay the phone coverage and at low tide we could expect to sand for us to pull the boats up is poor and made it hard for Selim find a beach for a land stop at the and we had plenty of sitting spots to communicate his change of plan. turn around point. We would pass on a big rock in the sun. There Cottage Point on the paddle but this After a trip briefing we headed is no beach at high tide. A pipe is not a convenient place to stop in downstream towards the from the creek above directed a kayak. Hawkesbury keeping to the side fresh water out over the beach. of the creek. The sunny day had Winter in Sydney can be hard work Cowan Creek is a beautiful stretch attracted other people out on to sometimes. Claus provided chicken of water surrounded by Ku-ring-gai the water and there were plenty of kebabs for those of us who couldn’t Chase National Park. According passing motor boats. While noisy resist them. It was hard to drag to a book I’m reading on the they did provide fun for the team ourselves away from this idyllic Hawkesbury area Cowan Creek with people catching waves as the spot. was used by smugglers in the early boats passed through. days of the colony. Apparently 200 The paddle back was relaxed rum casks were found in Cowan Approaching our turnaround point though the 22 km distance was a Creek in 1842. As a result a we could see the proposed lunch challenge for those not regularly customs station was established at spot was in deep shade. We paddling. I enjoyed the paddle and the entry to Pittwater the following needed sun for our lunch break, as I hope everyone else had a good year. Other than passing power it was still too cold in the shade. Off day out.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 22 Lake and Ocean Antics Seal Rocks 15-16th October 2016
MARK CLARKSON
This page left to right: Day one at Seal Participants: Adrian Clayton, pretty chilly, dropping down to single Rocks; passing through the ‘Gulch’. Caoimhin Ardren – Trip leaders figures which was a bit unexpected. Opposite top to bottom: Richard looks back to the cave; 11 in a keyhole. Colin Melrose, Richard Hackett, We awoke on Saturday morning Brian Burke, Wendy Marceau, Troy to an absolutely glorious day. marvel at the scenery. Adrian had Dunn, Cecilia Goon, Rod Wilson, Sunshine and blue skies with no lived in these parts some years ago Geoff Dauncey, Mark Clarkson wind to speak of. The plan was to so he had local knowledge of the meet up at #1 beach, just opposite area. He drew our attention to a I’ve done several overnight trips the camp site, at 8:30 for the trip white tipped rock at the top of the with NSWSKC but had never briefing. We were all there ready to outcrop and asked us to guess what been to Seal Rocks before so I go by 8:15 which was an indication it’s name was. Guessing that it was of everyone’s enthusiasm to get was looking forward to seeing this of significant geographic or cultural out and explore the coast. The stretch of coastline on the Lake and significance I heard suggestions sea was pretty calm and the wind Ocean Antics trip on the weekend such as “Sugarloaf point” and was light, but forecast to increase of 15-16 October. We all arrived at “Seal Rock”. “Nah” said Adrian, “it’s to 15-20 knots from the NNE in the Seal Rocks North Coast Holiday Birdshit Rock”. Right-y-o, I thought, the afternoon. The trip plan was to Park on the Friday evening. I got that’s set the tone for this trip, we head down the south coast in the won’t be stopping for soy lattes any away rather late and only arrived morning, head back up north past time soon! after 9pm, just in time to set up the #1 beach for lunch at a beach and tent and then retire for the night. We paddled a kilometre east across then head back to the start with the From what I heard it wasn’t such a Sugarloaf Bay to Seal Rocks Bay wind to our backs in the afternoon. bad move because the usual Friday where there is a rocky island. afternoon traffic out of Sydney had After an uneventful launch from the Rounding the northern side of this created a fair bit of pain for the beach we rounded a steep rocky I could see an inlet, just the sort earlier arrivals. The night turned outcrop where we all gathered to that attracts kayakers like a moth
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT Club Trips 23
it figured out. Wait until the surge into the inlet has filled the pool till the water is flat, then paddle in – should be easy. So off I went and all was going to plan until the front half of my boat was in the pool and the rear half was about to follow. Then the keyhole just drained like someone had flushed the toilet and all I could do was brace and try to steer my retreat as best I could to avoid the rocks that were rapidly popping up around me. Once I’d managed this I was then met with the surge coming into the inlet hitting me side on. This was not going to be as easy as I thought! Troy and Cecilia watched on as I lined up for another go with much the same result. My third attempt was oh so close, but only a salmon could make any progress once the water starts draining out the keyhole. By now, Cecilia and Troy had figured out the perfect timing (at my expense) and Cecilia shot through without a problem. The trick was to go for the gap as the pool was filling so you have ample coverage to get through, but before it can drain. My fourth attempt was an easy run in and everyone else lined up one at a time to complete the world record of 11 kayaks in the keyhole. It was a lot of fun but it did come at the expense of a small hole in the gel coat on my hull. Maybe that’s why it’s really called the Keyhole! One day I’ll be back in a plastic boat to even the score! to flame. Adrian was the first to go became clear what had happened. We then headed south, hugging in followed by two or three others With about a 300 degree turn to the the coast and admiring the cliffs. whilst the rest of us waited outside. left there is a shallow passage over It was amazing to see how the Adrian then disappeared around a rocks which opens up to a protected forces of nature had buckled what corner to the left and out of sight. pool, shaped like a keyhole, which was once flat sedimentary stone The next time I saw him, a minute is it’s name apparently. The problem into rugged peaks. The next stop or so later, his boat was upside was that after the surge going into was a cave that was fun to reverse down, he was hanging onto the side the inlet had filled the pool and into. After that was a very long of it and pretty close to the rock abated, the pool empties back into narrow passage called “Gulch”. wall. We watched on as he swam the inlet like a waterfall. The Gulch would actually connect the boat a few feet away from the After two or three of us had another parallel passage to the rocks to get some room to do a well successfully run the gauntlet into north if it wasn’t for a small beach executed re-entry and roll. WTF?? the keyhole, it was my turn. My just a few metres wide at the end. Was there a Loch Ness monster mistake was that I hadn’t seen As was becoming the trend, it was around the corner or what was it? those go before me. I watched the another case of ‘let’s see if we can Anyhow, one by one we sheepishly dynamics of the flows for couple fit 11 kayaks down to the end of paddled into the inlet and then it of minutes and then thought I had this thing’, which we did. Another
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 24 Club Trips 25
common trend is for a rogue swell the wind behind us going home Lakes to make its way into this sort of and made good speed home to #1 After all the paddling and sunshine place just when you least expect it. beach. Inconveniently, there was a on Saturday, Sunday was the Rod and Adrian were the two at the wedding taking place on the beach metamorphosis of “Lakes and back who had to do some hectic and kiddies playing in the waves Ocean” into “Aches and Lotion”. paddling to just make it through the where we wanted to land. To the We had all packed up our tents break zone. best of my knowledge the bride and were on the road on an inland and groom are still married and the Continuing south we rounded convoy to Smiths Lake by 8:30. It kiddies are all alive and well so it sugarloaf Point and spotted was just a short drive along Seal qualifies as an incident-free landing. dolphins nearby. The well- Rocks Road and then a right turn Some of us returned to the sea for maintained lighthouse and guest into a hidden lane that only our various reasons like grade 2 tasks cottages were also very impressive intrepid leader would have known and surfing and were rewarded with from the sea. The next leg was about. parallel to Lighthouse Beach to multiple whale sightings not far off Treachery Point. At Treachery Point the beach. Smiths Lake was an absolute contrast to the previous day’s we spotted a stunning Brahminy The most memorable aspects of paddle. From lively sea, rock Kite riding the air currents back and the Saturday evening’s camping gardens, surf and cliffs to a large forth in the vicinity of a steep gorge. were Geoff and Wendy’s Thai curry flat tranquil lake. It felt like we were The contrast of it’s brown back and and entertainment from a group of in a completely different part of wings against it’s white body was South American backpackers. We the world. We paddled out from really spectacular. Adrian informed were very amused by the antics of Wamwarra Bay over an old railway us that it’s pretty rare to see this the caretaker who dashed into the line that now lies at the bottom of species so far south. The return camp kitchen at 10:30pm and tried the lake. We headed north to where leg was a bit choppier due to the to expel all 20 or so backpackers for the Wamwarra Creek enters the swell and wind being in opposing staying without a booking or paying. lake with the intention to paddle directions. This time we ducked Most of them continued cooking up the creek. The going was flat through the passage and back their steaks (just cut the head and and easy because the wind hadn’t into Sugarloaf Bay. This provided tail off) and partying whilst one of picked up yet – well it would have protection from the easterly swell the young ladies disappeared to find been if it wasn’t for the ‘yellow and the conditions were easy again. evidence to fight their case. After all, peril’. You’d be paddling along Here we spotted whales heading where can you find accommodation nice and easy on a straight course south just a short distance further for 20 people in Seal Rocks at 11pm when gradually you’d feel your out to sea. on a Saturday night? She came stern drifting out to the side. After We headed north in search of an back with what looked like a copy of a couple of sweep strokes, to no accessible beach on which to have an email and won a reprieve, much effect, the cause of the interference lunch. Caoimhin did a recce of three to the amusement of the others. became apparent. Looking over beaches to the north of where we’d Well, there was no stopping the your shoulder you’d see the South begun our journey and decided that party after that! African Leprechaun with a huge beach #2 had the most manageable smile on his face as he pushed surf. All 11 of us negotiated our way through the surf for a safe landing and well deserved lunch break on a pristine beach. After lunch the wind had picked up as forecast and the surf was a bit challenging. One by one we headed out, carefully timing the sets to avoid the big ones that were real dumpers. Wendy definitely gets the award for the fastest paddling. She was out of the blocks like a grey hound and didn’t let up until the beach was far behind. We were on track for a 100 percent successful exit when Troy got caught broadside to a wave and had to make a wet exit. The next one went to plan. We all had
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 24 Club Trips 25
your stern broadside with the yellow story that Adrian gave us and I’m Clockwise from top left: Day one on plastic water hog. No one was safe, sticking to it. If you don’t believe Smith Lake; Caoimhin approaches not even the more senior paddlers the tank trap; 11 kayaks in Wamwarra that’s what they are, you’ll need Creeek; 10 people on Adrian’s kayak. or fairer sex. The trip around Smiths to find them yourself and prove Lake was generally a tranquil otherwise. paddle interspersed with mad the sea and was our turnaround About two hours and 8.5kms later dashes for safety! point. The wind had picked up to we arrived at Frothy Coffee. That’s 10 knots plus and was behind our We had a pleasant paddle up the not an artistic description of a backs, so it was fun trip back. Jeff creek for a few hundred metres, place or feature, it’s the name of a made the most of his sail under then encountered a huge tree that boatshed café that serves as the these conditions. We arrived back had fallen right across the creek name suggests, frothy coffee. After at the start 16.5kms and 4.5 hours with no room to pass. That put an coffee was world record time again. later which was lunch time and the end to that venture, so we changed How many people can you fit on a end of the trip. the plan to ‘lets see if we can fit 11 Wilderness kayak and stay afloat? kayaks into this little space – which You guessed it, the answer is 11. Many thanks to Adrian and Caoimhin (AKA the yellow peril) for was becoming our theme for the How Adrian’s boat managed to organising the Lakes and Ocean weekend. The next point of interest regain it’s shape after becoming a Antics. It was a very enjoyable and was a huge eagle’s nest high up banana is still a mystery to me. The memorable weekend. in a tree at the tip of Big Point. It’s wonders of plastic! been there for many years and no doubt the biggest nest I’ve ever The trip across the far eastern seen. A bit further on from that section of the lake was very tropical. on the north shore of the lake we The water was crystal clear with came across the pyramid tops that shallow sandy bottom and big explorers had brought back from sandy dunes in the distance. This Egypt many years ago. That’s the was where the lake almost meets
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 26
Saturday morning paddles warm reception and for sharing their skills. After a short online search we Our first joined the ”NSW Sea Kayak Club” Whitsunday Island and Tony Murphy recommended After three months of paddling in the Saturday morning paddle as the Sydney Harbour and building up six months most inclusive for newcomers. a few muscles we decided to go CAROLINE MARSCHNER We asked Sharon Betteridge to join on our first expedition on our own. the group and were kindly invited, We would not have much time (I’m This is the story of Dirk’s and my though we had to learn the wet exit a fulltime PhD student in addition first six months at the NSW Sea first. To prepare for this we watched to having three jobs and Dirk is Kayak Club. By joining several club some YouTube videos and on the an IT manager), so we decided activities over the winter months, next Saturday we met Sharon, Rob on an extended weekend at the such as Saturday morning paddles, Mercer and other group members Whitsunday Islands, where we rolling sessions and Tuesday Night at Vaucluse Bay to learn our first rented two touring kayaks from paddles, as well as undertaking essential kayak skill. It was already ‘Salty Dog Sea Kayaks’ to take our our own little trips we found a June and the water temperature had camping gear for a real adventure. new hobby that perfectly fits into dropped significantly. Nevertheless Within four days we managed our mindset: physical and mental Sharon, Rob and Tim Pearce were to paddle 80 kilometers along exercise in the most beautiful and determined to teach us how to exit Whitsunday Island, Haslewood stunning sceneries, with a positive our kayaks. After practicing all sorts Island, Border Island and Hook and supportive community! of strategies to re-enter a kayak we Island. We felt like we were Making a bargain got our Grade 1 signed off on the in paradise! Every day we same day. Hurray! Now we could After 3 ½ years of bush walking encountered sea eagles, whales, join the Saturday morning group almost every trail in the Sydney sea turtles, Wobbegongs, little and in the next couple of weeks we region we were looking for a new pretty box jellyfish, and we were learned much more about kayaking. hobby, something new and more snorkelling the most beautiful coral exciting! A membership at the Many thanks to all members of the reefs in this area. When a Manta Woollahra Sailing Club in Rose Saturday Morning Group for their Ray jumped two meters high out Bay had the potential. Dirk, already an experienced sailor, could easily teach me how to sail. I managed the basic sailing skills when we saw a flyer on the blackboard: ‘Kayaks for sale, $550 each, including all equipment’. We always wanted to have our own kayaks and this offer finally persuaded us. It took one hour and we had the boats! Now we were proud owners of two second hand Penguin kayaks. After our first easy paddles around Shark Island we quickly realized that we had no idea how to maneuver and efficiently paddle them. We needed to join a club!
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 27 of the water our expectations of Tuesday Night paddle The Hawkesbury Canoe Classic an adventure were clearly fulfilled! The days were already longer in Indoor pool - Rolling Session October and the water became Now the time was ripe for the Back in Sydney, Rob taught us acceptably warm (by European HCC. I again was a little nervous more about efficient paddle strokes measures). In agreement with Rob if I was prepared for this and now and there was another important we joined the famous “Tuesday I can tell, I was not! Nevertheless Night Paddle”. I heard a lot of the HCC was very enjoyable skill to learn - rolling! On the club interesting rumours, which made and well organized up to our website, Adrian Clayton invited me quite nervous. Rob however finish line at Wiseman’s Ferry. As members to an indoor rolling was very positive and said that all expected it took us the same time session, which allowed for two newcomers would fall into the water for 65 km as for others to finish unexperienced people. and there would be a bunch of great the classic course, but that was kayakers eager to rescue us every almost of no importance for us as Learning key rolling drills gave us time. we accomplished what we were a kick-start to practice further on working hard for and we enjoyed The water conditions at our first our own in the harbour. Thanks to every single hour on the water Tuesday night paddle were worse Adrian for the great organization preparing for this event and during than anything I expected (swell of of this session. Due to his valuable the course! teaching skills we made mayor three metres from all directions) but I found everything else much better progress and over the coming Top left: Paddling with Sharon’s than expected. The team spirit, the summer we will bomb proof the roll. Saturday morning group. experience and the level of skill of Bottom left to right: camp and beach Preparations for the this group is just remarkable. Of in the Whitsundays; at the start of the Hawkesbury Canoe Classic course we fell into the water and Hawkesbury Canoe Classic. Below: Training for the HCC I got incredibly sea sick, but we on Myall Lakes. As time went by we decided on our were not left next challenge, the Hawkesbury unattended Canoe Classic – Wisemans Dash. for a second We would still have another three by team months to prepare. Driven by a lot members and of will power to finish the ‘Dash’ I did not feel we had to train much harder now. scared at any I am not sure why people call it time. Thanks to all Tuesday the ‘Dash’; paddling 65km is an night paddlers! ultra-marathon! So we paddled and You are an paddled and paddled, again mostly awesome in Sydney Harbour, but also at Port group to Hacking, Jervis Bay and on the paddle with. Myall Lakes to get in shape.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 Cruising Nadgee
RAE DUFFY, IMAGES BY After selecting campsites we Island and ADRIAN CLAYTON paddled up the river past flowering the seal wild orchids, heaps of oysters and covered In September Neil and I joined lush bush land to where fresh water rock off the Adrian Clayton and Campbell Tiley is available, flowing over rocks into southern on a Nadgee expedition. It’s a the river. tip. Gabo stunning coastline, which very few lighthouse is an impressive sight, Australians are lucky enough to The weather held and we pushed built with the locally quarried pink enjoy. The weather and logistics on to Nadgee River the next day. granite. There is a lovely protected favoured a start from Boydtown, After another fairly tame surf beach to land on the western side gambling on not being hit by a wild landing we chose the elevated of the island. After spending some southerly at the end of the trip. northern camp site with views over the beach and river. The next day time exploring the island which After shuffling a car to Mallacoota heralded a bit of a southerly blow is home to the largest colony of we paddled south with a good so rather than battle the winds little Penguins in the world, we following breeze to Mowarry Beach, we paddled well up Nadgee River reluctantly made the short dash choosing the lower campsite over and into Wombat Creek where the to Mallacoota and returned to carrying tents to the top of the biggest drama of the trip unfolded: civilisation. hill. This may have been to avoid an unsuspecting victim was Such is the remoteness of the the wind or perhaps a sign of the capsized by an overhanging branch Nadgee wilderness at this time relaxed nature of the trip. and he and his GPS ended up in of year, we didn’t meet up with The next morning we bypassed the water. Despite repeated dives anyone else in between Boydtown Bittangabee and cruised with sails with a face mask, the GPS could and Gabo Island. It was a different hoisted along the spectacular not be retrieved from the mud. matter with marine life encounters. coastline, around Green Cape and With wine and chocolate severely We saw seals aplenty, whales from across Disaster Bay to Merrica depleted we set out the next day for afar and Neil and I had enjoyed River. The tide was out so we took Gabo Island and then Mallacoota. the company of dolphins at close a long lunch watching the toadfish The southerly had passed and it quarters for about 10 minutes as clustered in the pools until we could was so calm that we all paddled they piloted us towards Nadgee wade to the upstream campsite. through the gap between Gabo River.
Campbell, Rae and Neil sailing past Green Cape Top: Rae and Neil passing Boyd Tower
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT Above left to right: Camp on Nadgee River, Rae and Campbell on Wombat River; Below: Rae at Gabo Island Log: Boydtown to Mowarry Beach: 13kms in light northerly winds and small swell Mowarry Beach to Merrica River: 26kms in light/moderate northerly winds and small swell Merrica River to Nadgee River: 18 kms in light southerly winds and small swell Nadgee River/Wombat Creek side trip: 7kms in moderate/ fresh westerly winds Nadgee River to Mallacoota via Gabo Island: 35kms in light winds out of the north-west backing to the west, small swell.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 30
Woody Head was getting close, I finished a very pleasant and day the day was a cracker, slight seas, with a beer at the Sedgers Reef North by light winds, warm not hot…the Hotel, won the meat raffle and marine equivalent of the baby bears enjoyed this 1929 classic with a roof Nadgee porridge. and floors that undulate nicely and make you feel like you’re still at sea Woody Head is protected by rocky rolling over a gentle ocean swell. JOHN ATKINS reefs which run for a considerable distance north from the point but Paddle 2 + Walk Sandon- Minnie Waters-Sandon River given the benign nature of the (10 wet and 11 hot dry km) seas I was able to cut in as soon as I rounded the rocky headland Drove down very early to Sandon that shelters the beach. A couple River in the heart of Yuragir NP. of sub half metre waves rolled This little place is 9 km along a dirt over but just served to hasten my road south of Brooms Head and has progress to shore. There’s a boat a dozen or so fibro shacks and a ramp at Woody Head but in a small NP camping area. kayak a landing could be made just about anywhere. Woody Head is a I drove to the river mouth at the end NSWNP camping area and the Park of the camping area and dropped itself preserves the largest remnant the kayak in, leaving the car keys with the President of the North A trip to the north coast of New of littoral rainforest in the state. It’s a Coast Fishing Club. The Club has South Wales came as a default to good place to plan a walk when you a swish little club house in aged a planned trip to the Raja Ampat get out of your boat. corrugated iron right at the edge islands of West Papua. Shoulder I had breakfast (I left early and of the river with a view across the trouble ruled out Indonesia but was at Woody Head by 8.30 am) entrance to the ocean. He was busy to test the efficacy of the steroid then went for a sightseeing paddle organising a fishing comp’ for the injection I’d opted for over surgery round the cutely named Shark Bay. coming weekend and seemed a bit I packed up and headed north. No I paddled back to Iluka seeing quite sceptical about an old bloke who sure or precise plan but with a view a few turtles. The water itself was intended paddling to Minnie Waters to visiting those sections of the disappointing a bit yellow which I then walking back to Sandon before coast I’d always driven past and put down to the effects of the ‘big swimming the river to retrieve his with an intention to check out the river’ but I found over the next few vehicle, but I told him NSWKC Yuragir Coast walk as an adventure days that all the inshore water was members did this sort of thing all the option if paddling proved too pretty much the same…definitely time and I‘d see him in around six difficult. not great for a snorkel. hours. So from north to south this is a taste of some pretty pleasant paddling options available between Iluka and Red Rock. Paddle 1 (maybe 20 km) Iluka- Woody Head
Iluka on the northern shore of the Clarence gave easy access to the ocean. Starting from the harbour used by the prawn trawlers and with an obliging tide providing the last of the ebb to carry me past the long northern training wall, I slipped out and paddled north for Woody Head. The trawlers were coming in as I was going out but there’s plenty of sea room round the entrance and once clear of the river mouth you clear their track in no time! Two beaches, and one headland and
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 31
The tide was just on the flood as it back to south Sandon in three in NSW and since I’ve been a keen I paddled out of the Sandon. It’s hours, pulled out my big dry bag spearo’ and snorkeler for half a more an estuary than a river; the and shoved boots, small rucksack, century plus, that may give you northern side is protected by Plover clothes and crap into it and used an idea of the fabulous range and Island, the south with a typical rocky it as a floaty to cross the mighty tremendous abundance of sea life headland. It’s very shallow with a Sandon (50 metres if you don’t get round this island. Three or four few rocks sprinkled around but the swept out to sea). corals, plate, staghorn, encrusting Nadgee is pretty smart and avoided Paddle 3 Red Rock North not everywhere but certainly well the nasty ones! West Solitary Island (15 km) represented, morwong, drummer, Minnie Waters has one prominent I did sneak a paddle in up the luderick, bream. So many in places building and applying Aussie logic Wooli River because hot and they were hard to see through and I deduced that it had to be the surf windy conditions made the ocean then coral trout showing off like club. I’d never been anywhere unattractive, but this is a sea kayak exotic prima donnas. I could have on this coast so was going to be club so let me stick to the ocean. landing without benefit of prior spent a week in the water just knowledge but again the day was Saving the best till last is always around this island and from reports a kayakers dream, gentle following good, but good is about eight orders North Solitary is better, however I sea, gentle following breeze, lots of superlative below the word headed in for $6 whiting and chips of turtles and dolphins and some needed to describe this destination! at the Red Rock Shop and then flying fish putting on a show. Along The Solitary Islands have always headed home to Sydney dreaming with a small to medium shark this fascinated me, the confluence of fishy daydreams of three perfect made for a most pleasant two hour northern and southern species and paddles on the Solitary Coast! paddle. The bonus was that the their protection for more than twenty building was indeed the surf club years in a Marine Park made me and right across from it was the very sure that they’d be worth visiting smart Minnie Waters General Store, and for the first time I was in the so after an excellent milkshake I right place with a good boat. left the kayak beside the shop and The Nadgee practically took itself headed back to Sandon River up a out of the creek (Corindi River, sandy track that constitutes one of sand at low tide, big tidal pool at the middle sections of the Yuragir high tide) at Red Rock, we lined Coast Walk. up the island and between the Images left to right: Plover Island, It only took one dune and a few two of us came ashore in an hour Sandon River, ‘Fishville’ or North West bushes to block the cooling breeze and a quarter. I had the best 40 Solitary Island looking to Red Rock, I’d enjoyed in the kayak but I made minutes snorkelling I’ve ever had Sandon River access
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 32 Whitsunday Wanderings
TOM COX, WITH LISA MCCARTHY, ANNE CUMMING, MARK DABBS, MARK FULLER, HUBERT WIEST, AND CATH NOLAN
Overview - Tom Cox south east, and not too strong. It (Whitsunday Island), with a night is a most wonderful seascape and at Curlew Beach (Hook Island). Owen Kimberley invited people landscape. The beaches are arcs Dugong is reasonably protected from his regular Friday paddle to of white sand or coral, edged by from the southerlies. It has shelters set off for sunny Queensland in luxuriant growth, palms studding under which we retreated, trying to early August. He was rushed with the edge of the beach. The NPWS get out of the rain and avoid getting enthusiastic responses. The lucky campsites sit right on the edge of cold, and reading to pass the time. ones who got to go with Owen the beaches, three or so metres were Michelle Powell, Cathy Nolan, We had a couple of days and nights Hubert Wiest, Mark Fuller, Anne from the water. Tides can range up at Dugong Beach, hoping the Cumming, Lisa McCarthy, Mark to around three metres. The islands weather would ease off enough for Dabbs and Tom Cox. are lush with dense rainforests us to paddle back to the mainland. and tall grand hoop pines. Our Sadly it didn’t, so Owen called We booked our campsites ahead campsites were the idyllic tropical Scamper. We were up in the early through www.qld.gov.au/camping. islands of which dreams are made. hours, ready for a pickup at 8am. Anne and Cathy arranged for We went for a few walks to some Scamper ferried us back to Shute The Kayak Courier http://www. of the peaks, from which we had Harbour, heaving and bouncing thekayakcourier.com.au to transport panoramic views. over the wind-whipped swell. We their boats from Sydney to Airlie We were up before dawn on unloaded our gear, and prepared for Beach, and in due course to take Tuesday 9 August, and ready to the trip home. Hubert and I drove them back again. Anne and Cathy launch at Shute Harbour at 8am, back on the inland route in two long flew there and back. The rest of us before the tide ran out too far. Little days. drove up over three or four days, did we know rising in the dark was We all agreed it was a most singly or in pairs, and then camped to become a recurring pattern. wonderful trip. We could easily have a couple of nights at Airlie Beach. That night we camped on Henning stayed much longer. A couple of days before we were to Island. The following day we launch, a kayaker was attacked by paddled around the southern end Camping in the Whitsundays - a crocodile off the coast about 300 of Whitsunday Island and camped Lisa McCarthy km south, and spent three days on at Whitehaven Beach for two days. For me, there is nothing that can an island before setting off his PLB Scamper http://whitsundaycamping. compare with a camping holiday. and being lifted out by helicopter. It com.au did a water drop for us, It’s my favourite pastime, regardless gave us something to joke about. so that we didn’t need to carry 30 of the means used to get to one’s Two nights before we launched, litres of water from the start. On campsite. we sat in an al fresco restaurant in the fourth day we flew up the east Airlie Beach making up a story, Nine coast of Whitsunday and Hook This time, our camp sites were Little Kayakers, about how we each Islands, the wind at our backs, to the picture-postcard type. Our first might meet our demise. camp at Maureen’s Cove. We were night was spent at Northern Spit, August is a great time to visit the to have had two nights here, but the on Henning Island. Grassy, roomy Whitsundays. Temperatures are in forecast strengthening winds meant with amazing views, and wow… the low to mid – twenties, and winds we set out after one night to get to they even had toilets WITH toilet are generally from the south and Cid Harbour and Dugong Beach paper. What a spoil! However,
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 33 things got even better….no, not the I was over the moon that we were in amongst the trees. It looks toilets! Our next two nights spent sharing their home with them… deserted, except that day trippers at Whitehaven beach site were or vice versa. This was a rather arrive by the boatload! Some look both beautiful and memorable…. small campsite that required a bit a bit shell shocked, perhaps just Once the crowds had departed it of searching for that special flat landed from overseas and onto a was hard to compete with this truly spot for the night. However, a picnic boat! I went for a morning jog to the spectacular spot. Glorious white table and toilet (OMG no toilet end of the beach where some more sandy beach, turquoise water, paper supplied for this one!!!!) were forested island peaks to frame the still provided. yachts sheltered on a small lagoon. setting…it really doesn’t get much I was amused by three small Dugong Beach campsite is well better than this. No wonder it’s helicopters at this end of the beach, regarded in the Whitsundays. It known world-wide. (Of course it each with a beautiful couple sipping has a protected bay which provides is!) Its reputation for this was being shelter from the fierce winds for their bubbly beneath sun umbrellas threatened by the local wildlife, many sailing vessels. Due to and taking selfies. In the middle of which seem to know who was just the forecasted strong winds, the the day hundreds of day trippers that tad too relaxed and made off number of vessels anchored there were scattered on the beach, with various ‘prizes’, sometimes of a was amazing, and continued to communing with nature. By about dubious nature… increase during our stay. There was 3pm they were strung out in queues Maureen’s Cove on Hook Island ample camping, with good facilities to board their jet boats for the return was a treat, too. It was such a spoil including sheltered picnic tables, to whence they came. The campers to have campsites that come with roomy toilet facilities, seemingly get to enjoy the gorgeous sunset in picnic tables to boot. We could designated camping spots; these peace. have left our camping chairs at included some almost secluded home. I think I might have to start areas that one could really ‘get There was a chance to walk to a insisting on this style of camping away’ from other campers. Every lookout for a view of the previous for the future. The snorkelling here camp was special in its own way. day’s paddle and further to explore was supposed to be fabulous… next time. unfortunately, it was rather Whitehaven Beach - Anne disappointing. It appears that the Cumming Look out for the lace monitors and coral must have been damaged by Whitehaven is a stunning beach. crows at the campsite. The crows the various kinds of boat traffic, or As you round the corner from the loved the silver wrapping of the perhaps from violent storms….it south, it stretches for 6 km of white water that we had delivered, dive was very sporadic. sand and blue waters. When we bombing and puncturing it, and any Curlew Beach campsite was were there, the bay was full of hanging rubbish. appropriately named. These are chartered yachts. The National one of my very favourite birds, so Parks camp site is set back, nestled
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 34 35
Food and company - Mark Lisa and Mark’s bravery in cooking The most memorable company we Fuller brekkie as the barge was on came across was each other - the approach, Anne’s yummy rum and stories at night, the banter, finding Food Lisa’s nightly custard. out more about each other, and the Journeys of this length and nature lasting friendships. typically commence and end Company Paddling with whales - Hubert quite differently. This trip was no A huge part of any journey is who Wiest different. The communal visit to you meet along the way. Some of the supermarket involved spirited our more memorable encounters We were all very keen to spot discussions on cheese dissolution include: some whales. Beginning of August rates, potato chip flavours and ••likely drug smugglers/dealers who is the perfect season around the whether baby bel has any taste would operate along one or two of Whitsundays. But the whales kept whatsoever. A highlight was seeing the beaches late at night. us waiting for the first two days. On Hubert’s trolley with over sixty day three we launched from beautiful •a New Zealand couple paddling litres of water stacked in it and • Whitehaven Beach just for a little shop assistants running around a double sea kayak. He had only excursion. We aimed for the coral everywhere looking for more. one leg but it didn’t stop him reef of Haslewood Island. A snorkel in any aspect, including hiking Fresh meat, fruit and veges trip was on the agenda. When we up the highest peaks in the eventually were consumed, rotted crossed the channel, we suddenly Whitsundays. The stories of his or swapped as we settled into our saw the blow of whale. We were adventures were inspiring. daily routines of cereals, wraps, all quite excited and paddled a bit avocado and canned meat. Envious ••annoying sailors from a broken closer, but the whale dived away. It eyes would occasionally dart from down yacht constantly coming took a while until the whale showed up – this time right next to us. And person to person as someone would ashore to use our camp toilet all we saw it was a female whale produce a fresh or unique item. through the night. together with its calf. We had the •large goannas insisting on using As the end drew near we resorted • chance to accompany them at a safe our campsite as exercise yards. to the usual lentils, peanut butter, distance for a little while on their long dehydrated food and those packet ••the hordes of tourist day- way to Antarctica. It was a wonderful Indian meals, all spiced by an trippers transported in and out experience to watch these gentle increasing quantity of parmesan of Whitehaven Beach each day, giants. cheese, pesto, garlic and ginger to it was like watching peak hour drown the taste. Highlights were commuters waiting for the bus. Whale and calf spotted near Haslewood Island
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 34 35
Sailing the Whitsundays - Coral and snorkelling - Cath At Chalkies we were pleasantly Mark Dabbs Nolan surprised with a variety of hard and soft corals, clams, tropical and star “Whoa there”, again…as the kayak Well the Whitsundays didn’t fish. Some drop offs provided for a broaches on another wave. The disappoint with regard to snorkelling variety of larger fish species also. sails are up, the waves are from the opportunities. Coral and fish stern at 1-1.5 metres and the wind, life abounded close to shore off We had heard that Hook Island was also from the stern, is hitting around Haslewood Island, south east even flusher with coral, particularly 15-20 knots. Great fun, in other than of Whitsunday island. A small Maureen Cove, however we were a fully loaded boat. contingent paddled across to disappointed when we arrived. I think repeated A pre-requisite for anchorage had joining Owen’s trip damaged much was to bring a sail. of the hard coral And knowledge of and the fish life know how to use was scarce. We it! We all knew the did travel over penalty of no sail some fabulous so we were good coral sites on the little boys and girls north western and obliged. And side of Hook and did we enjoy it! I understand Some of the waves the Pinnacles gave fantastic rides chewing up also supports an the kilometres, abundance of hard water spraying out coral, large fish from the bow and and manta rays… the odd nose dive. next time!! A great What appeared website for coral to be a long day destinations on turned into a the Whitsundays pleasant, quick, is 100 Magic exhilarating down- Miles, also a book, wind trip. which is regularly updated. Some of us got the hang of it and found the deep Footnote: Owen rudders assisted and Michelle were with steerage walking in the while on the wave. Australian Alps Those without when this article rudders did a fair was conceived, bit of stern rudder so were unable control. to add their bits This day we sailed of the story. Anne from Whitehaven wrote hers on her Beach, at the mobile phone in southern end of Jamaica, having Whitsunday Island, just completed the to the top of Hook Chalkies Beach, on Haslewood New York Marathon. Mark Fuller Island. Island from Whitehaven Beach wrote his just before boarding a A few other days produced the right (1-1.5km) on day 3 of our trip. On plane to South America for multiple conditions for sails up, but nothing this crossing to Chalkies we also adventures including kayaking in to compare with this day. spotted a Southern Right Whale the Antarctic. For those who don’t sail … you are with her calf cruising by which was missing out on a real buzz! a welcome diversion.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 Tropo Solo Far North Queensland, Townsville to Tully Heads
MEGAN PRYKE
A refreshing break at Zoe Falls, Hinchinbrook Island
I planned to escape winter to the tropical realm where every season is summer. It was a short-notice trip, so I did not expect an able taker when I invited potential paddling pals. I had to make an effort to appease my husband who did not like to think of me paddling solo. Meanwhile, I prepared for my solo, sea kayaking expedition.
The Sunny Days: Days 1 to 3
At West Beach on Magnetic Island with Townsville in view, I received an SMS. It was from Stuart Trueman – how unexpected. “Hoping you were not paddling at Shoalwater last week?” I consider texting back: “Don’t worry Stu, the club’s reputation is intact. The President is safe. The only crocs I have seen are fake ones which I wore on my feet this morning.” I reply with a less cocky message, then embark on the most committing part of my trip being a 26km crossing to Acheron Island. I was heading north-west, and I had three days of 15-20knots SE winds forecast. Who wouldn’t be chuffed with that? Lively seas demand my attention and the views of islands ahead are all new to me. “Hello,” I holler as a booby bird flies straight across my bow. My camera gives “Out of memory” message as I attempt a photo. It circles nearby and I enjoy keeping an eye on its graceful gliding as I approach Acheron Island. Tim Trehearn’s book “Gone for Shore” describes an Acheron Island east side camp. I recall Tim’s description as being
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT Acheron Island Camp between granite boulders. I develop on fetch. The arrangement of islands until the next lull. I pause several visions of a secret passageway changes, confirming my progress times to take photos of Hinchinbrook and landing through a rock garden. and location. Island as the light and cloud Acheron Island was obscured by changes. I muse on how simple With the morning ebb tide, the cloud on the satellite images I had decisions when solo just happen. current is with me. I will be close seen. It was mysterious. I drop my No conflict, no communication, to islands by the afternoon, where sail to get a clearer view of the cliffy no misunderstandings or wrong I hope that any opposing current east side. Among messy chop, a assumptions. You are in sync will be nullified or create favourable large brown, submerged creature with yourself reacting to the sea’s eddies. Everything is going my way, rises towards the water’s surface. demands and your whims. I am alarmed. Then I feel silly for and I feel great. En route, I set down on the lee side thinking that a turtle could be a With Fantome Island shielding me of Hillock Point. While searching for crocodile! from the rougher seas, I pause for a views, I make a short ascent and good drink and snack. “Ker-Thump!” I need to get a good distance get phone reception. After my land Was that a joy ride high-speed motor covered over the next few days exploration, I paddle once again, boat? No, I reason as I could not as stronger winds are forecast. I meandering beside the shore. hear an engine. I look towards the consider pushing onto Havannah Rounding the corner towards the booming sound to behold a massive Island having arrived at Acheron by southern end of Zoe Bay a gentle humpback whale breaching. Later, 2:30 pm. I opt to rest and spend a wave picks up my kayak. I gracefully while meandering up the Orpheus relaxing afternoon on this remote curve into the creek with its energy. coast, I hear heavy breath-like island. Granite walls, the sea and the The tide is low and the base of the sounds. I stop to watch a travelling unexploded ordnance risk confine mangroves are exposed. I am happy whale’s progress as it rises and falls me to a small, private beach. I am it is crocodile free - unless it is one through the azure water. I see shoals glad that it is close to neap tide cycle less than five centimetres tall! as a big high tide could make camp of fish and another huge turtle. I set up camp, catch some sunlight rather soggy. I chat to some yachties at Pioneer rays on a solar charger, have lunch Bay, the campsite on Orpheus I write in my journal, watch the and take a walk. Later, I make the Island. They are planning to go sunset and gaze at the islands 10-minute walk to Zoe Falls. At the through the Hinchinbrook channel for ahead. An occasional gecko chirp base of the falls is a superb plunge the big blow and agree with my Zoe and small waves pulsing are the only pool. I share this paradise with Bay plan. sounds. dauntless jungle perch. I am pleased The following day I wake early and At my second camp, I become lavish and salt water free! with my fresh water. I use it to wash leave Acheron by 6 am. My stop Sea kayakers are recommended up pots, cutlery and myself. I don’t at Havannah Island is prolonged a camp at the south-east facing have the heart to dump it all and as I need to fix my sail, which has Sunken Reef Bay on Hinchinbrook. settle on keeping about eight litres. a missing nut. Zip ties are handy I have decided to head to the more things! From Pelorus Island’s west coast sheltered Zoe Bay, hoping that no The skies are blue and visibility I have a good view of the iconic bushwalker will mind my intrusion. ideal. With moderate winds behind Hinchinbrook Island. Despite the I wake to a severely buffeted tent me, the sail lightens the heavy cloud engulfed mountains I work out when the gale strikes during the kayak. I’m engaged by the textured my aim. When making the crossing, I night. Rain showers come and go seas, as I journey along. I pass by reach my set break time. The wind is and wind rushes through the trees rough and smoother seas depending strongly gusting, so I decide to wait as I fall asleep.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 38 39
View from Pelorus Island Hinchinbrook Island from Hillock Point
Day 4: Hinchinbrook Island look to the left, look to the right With my kayak packed and tethered Walking in the Rain again.” Then splash across the creek I set out for a morning walk along hastily, knowing I am in estuarine the Thosborne Trail to the north. On I awaken to the dawn chorus. It’s not crocodile country. Sunken Reef Bay, the beach, I see a shorebird calling, raining. With a dry bag slung over with its south-east aspect, looks and then I see its mate. I do not my shoulder, I set out for the day uninviting in a strong southerly blow. know this species, so I nickname to walk part of the Thosborne trail. The surf is messy, the water brown, them “Bandit” birds due to the black The Thosborne trail has lots of rock and I am glad I did not camp there in stripey marks near their eye. (Later hopping and rarely level walking. the current weather. I find out they are Stone Beach When I reach the top of Zoe Falls, Curlews, listed as vulnerable.) I hear bushwalkers talking below. The rainforest before camp is I suspect it is the four chaps who gorgeous. The bark of some The northern trail is beautiful. I pass spent yesterday afternoon futilely fly rainforest trees, which I think is by a lovely grove. Trees with splayed fishing. coachwood like, has turned bright upper branches crowned with vibrant orange. By 4 pm I reach my tent, lime-green leaves; straight trunks Twenty minutes later, I am donning escaping inside to avoid another coated by knobbly, roasted coffee- my cag. Strong wind gusts and shower. I complete my mozzie bean coloured bark and their mass showers come and go throughout swatting ritual and dry off with a pack stabilised by umbrella-like roots the day. With several creek towel. With a dry set of thermals and growing out of a swamp. The still crossings, a sodden track, and wet socks on I become nice and dry. water mirrors the colours above. vegetation, I am soggy but not cold. It’s a resplendent scene. Alas! My Two hours from camp on a high My laminated map of the upcoming camera battery is flat and left my ridge I figure I will get reception. coast is a bit small, so I fire up my phone in my kayak. At a stand of Unwanted commands to my phone GPS. I press the upper arrow to melaleucas, I turn back and enjoy, from wind driven rain garbles my examine the coast further north. once again, shades of green. messages. I decide to try again Darn…the arrow key is not working. later. The rain eases off by the I study the A4 Thosborne trail map At the beach, the sky is mottled with time I reach the Mulligan’s Creek instead. It is paper and suffering grey tones and the sea is brownish crossing. Thirty minutes later, at from getting wet as my damp phone and fringed with creamy surf. The Mulligan Falls, it starts pounding was moved in and out of my map bandit birds don’t mind as they strut down. I take shelter during this case during this drizzly day. on the sand, calling to the breeze. downpour under the glamorous pit During the night, I hear something As a strong wind warning is current, toilet veranda. I write in my journal, shuffling under my vestibule. A small I don’t take my decision to paddle glad the bushwalkers have not rodent startled by my torch-light lightly. I paddle back four kilometres arrived. The rainforest is exquisite dashes away with a prize muesli bar. into rain driven by a headwind to with bright, rinsed vegetation and my It was too cute to call a rat! Hillock Point for phone reception. photographs splotchy. Day 5: Walking, paddling up The forecast and observations I decide to make the detour to the Hinchinbrook coast in rain present no reason to think it will get Sunken Reef Bay on the return walk. stronger, so I make the dash across Just before reaching the beach, I Rain is on and off today. I cannot Zoe Bay. Occasional showers and come to a creek crossing with a leafy find any evidence of my muesli bar, the gusting wind comes and goes. base and clear, knee-deep water. I so I pick up a couple of other lost It is good to get around Agnes feel like a kid as, I “look to the right, wrappers to add my garbage. Island as the most exposed for
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 38 39
DAY 6 Walking to Nina Beach and Nina Peak
Well before dawn, I am awake, organising and packing. With breakfast supplies, I set out for a Nina Peak sunrise. The moon has set, and it’s cloudy thus inky dark. The Thosborne trail markers are reflective so my torch’s light signals the next one. I never fail to feel repulsed by cane toads, so halt when I spot two small, glowing red eyes. I stamp a foot close to the insolent beastie hoping it does not leap towards me. I think I may have passed the Nina Peak offshoot track when I start a gentle descent. I reach a creek crossing; the downhill may have been due to its drainage, so I keep going. I reach another creek crossing, then another, and as I ascend a dune decide that brekky will be at Nina Beach. In the light, I make better time on the return trip and quickly find the unmarked Nina Peak trail heading off. My heart rate increases with the steepness of the track. I stop to check phone reception before the summit, as it’s not raining. The wind is blowing like billy-os. I take care that nothing is blown to kingdom come. When drizzle starts up, I stop my communications. At the summit, I enjoy the cloudy mountain views. Below are silver ribbon streaks cutting through the green carpet of Missionary Bay mangroves.
Day 6 (Part 2): Paddling Blacksands Beach, Hinchinbrook Island Around Cape Sandwich, Hinchinbrook to Goold Island
today is complete. I continue onto carry my kayak. Later he sets off for After the last pack, I drag my kayak Blacksands Beach. his 4 pm pick up at Missionary Bay. backwards to launch. The surf is He paddles around a small headland To my surprise, with no building or soft, refracted waves and seas, not to Ramsay Bay then walks across swell waves. I have plenty of battery boat nearby, a wetsuited surfer is the dunes. power and plan to use the electric playing in the surf. I land in gentle pump to empty the cockpit rather surf at Blacksands Beach and locate The little stream in the scrub behind than drag my kayak further up the the campsite. The surfer comes in the campsite was flowing due to beach. Before I get in a larger wave for a chat. He was just as surprised recent rain, so I have plenty of water. swamps my kayak. I tilt it sideways, to see a sea kayak appear with what I enjoy another peaceful afternoon empty most of the water, then jump he now knows is a kayak sail up. I and night with the occasional in and paddle out beyond the small welcome his generous offer to help downpour. break. I turn the pump on, let the
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 40 41
rocky shoreline. It is not raining, and the wind has stilled. I stow the sail, have a snack and drink then take a line closer to Eva Rock than the Cape. The seas start coming from everywhere. Then it seems the only direction is vertical as opposed slosh meets. In different places, small wave peaks appear. I joke to myself that the spires of water look like pop-up dorsal fins of orcas. There are a few small whitecaps. I relax my hips and focus on getting through. I think of the muscles I would need to engage if I capsized. In this murky water, a roll would be by feel. I am alert and kind of enjoying this new experience while hoping it won’t last too long. I have been in plenty of rebound, but this was unquestionably different. After thirty minutes of assiduous paddling, with the occasional brace stroke, I am through this crazy, confused water. I had just gone around Cape Sandwich in a mid-ebb current, thirty-six hours before a full moon. I wonder whether the “Sandwich” name is due to colliding currents. The seas are back to their east- south-easterly march and the trusty trade wind is behind me. I shoot across 9kms to Cape Richards, sail up, of course! Signs along the tree line identify a no go area and potential fines. Somewhere in the trees are ruins of kayak drain as I fit my skirt, shut I encounter the largest seas this a resort destroyed by Cyclone Yasi. down the pump and darn, the pump trip; estimating up to 2m at times After a short walk, I find a line of is still humming away. I paddle back and directly on my beam as I make nasty rocks between my kayak and to shore to the quiet corner. The only my way northwards. Torrential rain the water as low tide approaches. I temporary solution is to disconnect and mammatus cloud are to the wait for the tide to return to reduce the battery, rather than draining it northeast. I apprehensively scan solo dragging mistreatment of my flat. I am disgruntled as I expect ahead. Then I realise; I am not going kayak. I have time to relax on this rough waters near Cape Sandwich to spot rough water ten kilometres lovely, tropical beach. Blessed by a today. away after paddling less than ten big patch of blue above, with my tent minutes. If I did, I should turn around and other belongings out to dry. Grant, a local sea kayaker, advised now! me to expect rough waters near Eva With 20 plus knots behind me for Rock. The forecast is 20 to 25 knots Having admonished myself, I get the 8 km crossing, it was a blast today with occasional showers. The over my worry and settle into the to Goold Island. I have my last seas maintain the energy of stronger paddling. I know weather does not campsite all to myself and plenty offshore winds from the past few just arrive; it builds and dissipates. of time to enjoy it. I had my GPS days. I can occasionally see Eva The mammatus lumps thin out as in sunlight to dry; in hope, I turn it Rock, 2km off the Cape Sandwich, the clouds let go of their moisture. on. It displays a strange software rain and waves obscure it. After 8 km of paddling, I reach the message then its screen ghosts out.
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 40 41
The campsite is on a spit, and it is I slip by a boat moored easy to walk from the calm lee side near the northeast end to the windward side for a reality of Goold Island. I’m in a check. pensive mood thus glad not to see a soul awake. The Final Day: Goold Island to Soon after my sail is Tully Heads up and the lively beam seas exhilarate me. I Before leaving Goold, I walk one pilot my way to Wheeler last lap of the spit starting on the Island, which is part of exposed side. At the tip of the the Family Islands group promontory, a group of pelicans and on my map near its stand with a flock of little terns edge. “Hello,” just like huddled at their feet. The skittish on my first few paddling terns take to flight when I walk days, a booby bird soars above as I closer. I stop; the terns settle back at approach an island. I land at 10:30 the feet of the austere, statuesque am and call Grant, who describes pelicans. The pattern repeats. When what I should see. I cannot see any I reach the lee side, I’m pleased to houses due to haze. I figure it will all see another pair of “Bandit birds.” make sense when I get closer. My laminated maps cut out before At first, I head well south of west my planned finish location, Tully as I can always turn and go Heads. I have the direct bearing downwind with ease and know I and distance needed. I had been in need to compensate for the northerly touch with Grant and Deanne who current. The textured seas, which live at Tully Heads and had kindly occasionally demand a brace, are offered to help me at the end of Opposite: Palm Islands from Havannah quartering on my port side. My my trip. Grant recommended going Island; Approaching Hinchinbrook oscillating compass shows a snaking to Wheeler Island, contacting him Island, Hillock Point in sun. heading, so I focus on the shape of This page: View from Wheeler Island; again, then head to Tully Heads. I the mainland coast. Further along, Friendly Jungle Perch, Zoe Falls pulge can see Wheeler Island in the Family I spot houses that were not visible pool; Stone Beach Curlew A.K.A “Bandit Islands; after that Tully Heads is due bird”. earlier. Just to the south of the west. Simple! houses is a headland. About 4kms In calm, wind protected conditions further south is another headland.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 42
“Bingo,” I can see a tower between trailer. What the? It has wheels. It Wrap Up the two promontories. Hull and Tully drives into the shallow waters, to get Everything Grant told me was Heads are about 4kms apart, and afloat lifts it’s wheels and sets off in correct. I missed our Plan A Grant mentioned a communications aqua-mode. Bizarre! rendezvous spot by 5 minutes; they tower. I figure I have time to make my 1:30 had gone to our Plan B point being I turn downwind for a fun, fast and pm rendezvous. I hurriedly launch the Coast Guard station within Hull engaging bow burying stretch. The then push into a headwind until past Heads. Ironically, the Plan B was seawater changes from teal to the Hull River mouth. With the sail made in case the current swept me be taupe. Hmmm, that tower has up I paddle parallel to the shore, too far north. My preference was to a roundish head, how peculiar? just outside the breaker line. I see land on the beach, as it was closer to Maybe it’s a windmill, or more likely a small white speck, which may be Grant and Deanne’s home. Secretly, a palm tree. It disappears before I a car, later it disappears confirming I liked the idea of finalising my trip could identify what it was. Beyond it was a car. I spot a square looking with a surf landing, albeit mild surf. the beach dunes, I can see green thing that could be a tower, due to Being solo heightened my senses. hills, evidence of cleared land. I my earlier mistake I reserve my Earlier experiences bolstered my head for the middle of the beach. judgement. decision-making confidence. I could I don’t expect to see Grant’s white paddle and walk at my pace, sing The number of breakers has vehicle as it’s 12:15 p.m. He was out of tune with incorrect lyrics increased with the dropping tide. in town during the morning, and he and talk to booby birds. This trip I stow my sail and surf in, drag planned to meet me at 1:30 pm. I has enriched my life. To all those the kayak up and fetch my phone look for where he may drive onto whom I have shared other sea to call Grant. As I suspected, the the beach. The town of Tully Heads kayaking adventures with, thank is probably a bit of a sleepy hollow, white speck was his car. I was quick you! Especially to Alan my husband, but cattle on the beach? Really? I to Wheeler Island so Grant and Deanne, Grant and Paul, I am have been swept further closer to Deanne figured I could arrive before grateful for your support. the north corner where I can now 1:30 pm. I landed at 1:40 pm further see mangroves. Thinking possible down the beach than I needed to be. PS: I drove through misty mountains a few days later and found this crocodile habitat, I get out in the I felt my daily Facebook posts were shallowest water possible. I drag message scribed on a public toilet becoming hedonistic so stopped door punctuated with a love heart! my kayak up a bit, fetch my phone, after a few days. It was, however, turn on my maps app and confirm lovely to get the most number of She turned her CAN’TS into CANS my suspicion. I am north of the Hull “likes” of a picture of Grant and and her dreams into plans. Heads and well off my chart. Deanne carrying my kayak. I Megan Pryke started sea kayaking Over the dunes a vehicle appears, reported I had just ended a seven- in 2008 and is a qualified AC Sea no wait it’s a boat, only with no day solo expedition. Instructor.
“Now this is the way to finish a solo expedition. Thanks Grant and Deanne for being porters!”
Day Details Paddling Distance (km) Wind (kn) 1 Pallendra to Acheron Island 35 ESE 15-20 2 Acheron Island to Orpheus Island 47 ESE 15-20 3 Orpheus Island to Hinchinbrook Island (Zoe Bay) 31 ESE 15-20 4 Landlubber day. 8 hour bushwalk. 0 SE 20-30 5 Zoe Bay to Blacksands Bay, Hinchinbrook Island 22 SE 20-30 6 Blacksands Bay to Goold Island 31 ESE 20-25 7 Goold Island to Tully Heads via Wheeler Island 31 ESE 15-20
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 43 South of the Harbour
KAREN DARBY
passed some whales. Sometimes got hit with a wave from another you don’t see very much low down direction moments later. on the water in a kayak. I had When nearly back to Long Bay noticed people hanging around on the cliffs staring out to sea. over the noise of the wind and Turns out they weren’t admiring my the waves hitting the cliffs I heard Living north of the Harbour Bridge forward stroke. another loud noise and spotted a we often fail to consider the huge spray of water out to sea. It southern coastline for paddling trips. We turned around at Ben Buckler had to be a whale and the whale Which makes no sense as it is a and headed back to Gordons Bay didn’t disappoint. A huge tail waving shorter drive than the Central Coast for a break. The wind had started out of the water and plenty more tail or Palm Beach and we often choose to increase and Gordons Bay was slapping followed. I didn’t feel any to do that. So we made a radical full of people enjoying the sun and need to paddle closer with the scary plan to cross south of the Harbour sheltering from the wind. Bridge. There was a forecast of a quantity of water being displaced calm start to the day with a rapidly The dream was for a downwind run with each tail slap. back. The wind had a lot of east in it strengthening northeaster from Turning in to Long Bay we got out of late morning. With this forecast we and mostly we ended up side on to the wind. This is a civilized location planned a paddle starting at Long the waves. With the rebound from to launch from, with seats well Bay heading north to Bondi and the cliffs and the SE swell it became located to allow you to stare out at turning around as the wind started interesting as the wind increased to strengthen. and wasn’t the fast, cruisy run we the white caps in ocean while you had thought would happen. If you finish your lunch and contemplate The start of the day was magic. did catch a wave you typically an enjoyable paddle. Sunny, light winds with a 1.5 m SE swell. Very easy paddling as we Leaving Long Bay headed north. Off Maroubra we spotted some activity in the water. I had a nervous moment as all we could see were reasonable sized fins charging around in the water. Was it some sort of shark feeding frenzy? I was pleased when they calmed down and started swimming more like dolphins than sharks. The dolphins had found a school of fish and were enjoying a feed. We chatted to a guy on a jet ski off Bondi and he told us that we had Passing Wedding Cake Island
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 44 Kayaking Tonga/Friendly Islands
MARK DABBS
Mmmmm … where next for first visit in 1773, because they first have zero days of rain, lots of sun, Kayaking? thought they would be scrumptious bit of wind but rarely over 15 knots to eat. However, after the festival and a glorious time slacking it in two M: Has anyone kayaked there different resorts, while the rest of before? they were having at the time, they were too full for further “food”. you were struggling in cold, windy, L: No. storming, rainy days. Geologically the Tongan islands M: Let’s go! are of two types: most have a Our first resort on Atata Island (Royal Sunset Resort) was a And that is how Lisa McCarthy and limestone base formed from uplifted 30 minute boat trip from the Mark Dabbs decided to kayak in coral formations; others consist of southern main island of Tongatapu. Tonga during July 2017. limestone overlaying a volcanic base. The views from our beach house Tonga is an archipelago in the veranda and bed were stunning, South Pacific Ocean, directly south The climate is tropical with a distinct 10 paces from the beach and of Samoa and about two-thirds warm period (December–April), water’s edge. of the way from Hawaii to New during which the temperatures Being the only guest for the first few Zealand. Its 169 islands, 36 of them are above 32 °C, and a cooler days we had the run of the place, inhabited, are divided into three period (May–November), with we were there for a week. We had: main groups – Vava’u, Ha’apai, temperatures rarely rising above one barman, two waiters, one chef, and Tongatapu – and cover an 800 27 °C. The average daily humidity is two office managers and various kilometre long north-south line. It 80 percent. workers to keep the place neat and has a population 103,000 people of The tropical cyclone season runs tidy. Oh, it was just so hard to take! whom 70% live on the main island from 1 November to 30 April, though of Tongatapu. Tonga became known Kayaking, ah yes, one of the tropical cyclones can form and as the Friendly Islands because of reasons for going. The resort affect Tonga outside of the season. the congenial reception given to supplied kayaks. Not sure if you Captain Cook and his crew on his Sounds interesting! We manage to could class them as “sea kayaks”
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 45 as they didn’t have deck lines; nor mostly at night we decided to fly, a Cave was uneventful. The cave is a hatch cover over their central, one hour flight. in the side of a 15m limestone cliff, and only, buoyancy tank; not of an easy paddle inside with great This time we headed for an even exceptional length (2.5 metres coloured rocks, but no swallows. smaller island resort on Mala Island, max); a paddle for the gym junkies At this point the coral atoll finishes Mala Island Resort. Again, we and no method of giving a good and the sea bed drops dramatically were the only ones there for the foot drive. However they were down a few kilometres. The paddle first two of the seven days. Our hut exceptionally stable and easy to back into a head wind was great for was further from the water with no self-rescue. We didn’t try any rolls fitness building in the double sit-on- beach front. But the views were as the seat belt to hold us in was top while Lisa did donuts around magic. A 50 minute stroll saw us missing. me! fully circumnavigate the island, quite A circumnavigation of the island, a bit smaller than the last island. A Snorkelling around our island was including sections fully open to the very different resort to the last one. magical with lots of fish and a bit massive seas, took 50 minutes This one was owned and run by a of colour in the coral. This time with many photo stops along the couple who went out of their way to there was no rock gardening but way. Included was some fun rock make our stay pleasant. They even there were quite a few small islands gardening. I think the swell may suggested we cook our own meals nearby that made for fun paddling. to keep the cost down and insisted have topped the scales at 200mm. Add Tonga to the list of “visited we use their commercial kitchen. The island had the obligatory white destinations” for Lisa and me, and The local produce was great. sandy beaches, coconut palms, for the NSWSKC’s list of visited clear water, coral (but not much Again we had kayaks supplied free paddling destinations. An interesting colour), limestone cliffs about three of charge. One was somewhat but not challenging place to kayak, metres high, few small caves, many better that the other but Lisa got unless you paddle between the small sea stacks, a lovely sandy that so I had to contend with the larger three main islands – about bottom and gentle conditions. Yeah, double sit-on-top. At least the 250km between each. it was pretty tough! buoyancy tanks had hatch covers this time! The paddle would again Our second week was spent in Clockwise from far left: Atata Island, have suited a gym junkie. Vava’u group of islands right up beach house, Mala Island Resort, the better kayak, Swallow Cave, rough north. We were going to catch the The weather was kind. Sunny, light weather at Atata Island, top quality sea ferry but after finding it was a mere winds, clear water, low to nil swell. kayak/SUP, view from Sunset Resort 300km north and the boat travelled The paddle of 8km to Swallow beach house.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 46 Prince William Sound, Alaska
RUBY AND CAOIMHIN ARDREN
to Chenega Bay on Evans Island. The ferry continues on to Kodiak Island and sometimes the Aleutian Islands every week or so during the summer months. Boarding the ferry wasn’t without mishap. I had left my identification documents in Anchorage, and had to get special permission from the Coastguard to travel on the ferry. We were almost on the ferry, after piling multiple IKEA bags on the back of a ute and Let’s slow that down a bit and start at carrying in two kayaks, when the the beginning. security guard asked us how we planned to paddle back to Whittier Prince William Sound is south- without any paddles. We found them east of Anchorage, Alaska, and is on the back of our kayak operators most often accessed from Whittier ute. It would have been a five day Ten minutes into the first day’s or Valdez. Caoimhin and I were in wait to return to Whittier and no paddle and a fledgling Bald Alaska on our honeymoon and had further ferries after that, which meant Eagle with a wingspan of at just completed two weeks cleaning we would have been restricted to a least three metres swoops up marine debris on Shuyak Island five day paddle out of Whittier – not within metres of my head. in the Kodiak Island group. Having what we had planned! exhausted our backs and our will We couldn’t land on a beach that to cohabit with strangers, we hired The heavy cloud cover and looked good for camping because kayaks and gear from Paddlers accompanying rain that plagued a black bear was heading to the Realm (a kayak hire, tour and our stay in Whittier gradually lifted nearby salmon stream for dinner, training company based in Whittier) during our five-hour ferry ride. a porcupine raised its quills at us, for a one-way ten-day paddle Whittier was chosen as the location orcas came hunting on a beach that through the heart of Prince William for a navy base in the Second World we had just thought about swimming Sound. War, as the constant cloud cover on, the weather was abnormally Packing is hard protected the location from enemy good, the flies bred like crazy, we planes. We arrived in Chenega Bay forgot about work and selling houses We hired a car to travel from late in the afternoon, and set off for and moving, it was all spectacular, Anchorage to Whittier, and then a short paddle to our first camp. and I couldn’t have had a better stayed there the night before After my run-in with the eagle, we honeymoon! boarding the last ferry of the season spotted many more that afternoon,
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 47 in addition to sea otters and seals, had lost a lot of their scales. Some our early-morning jaunt to see the which kept a much more respectful had impaled themselves trying to Nassau Glacier. distance. We paddled into the bay get over or around logs or sticks, Our first sight of a tidal glacier we hoped to camp in and saw a and some just seemed to have run (by kayak) was pretty impressive. black bear mooching down the out of puff and were in the lower Unfortunately it was a bit of a grey beach. After a quick U-turn, we reaches sitting in an eddy getting and cloudy morning, but there moved on to the next beach, only their strength back. Those that was no doubt that the glacier was to discover a bear’s dining room arrived at high tide had it relatively dauntingly huge with a field of and recent evidence of a visit. It easy. The journey into the creek was icebergs all around it and throughout was getting late by this time, so we short and if they arrived just before Nassau Fjord. Sea lions were decided to risk it and camped on full tide, they got an extra push. lounging on several of the icebergs. the beach, well out in the open and Those that tried to access the creek Caoimhin couldn’t help himself and with clear access to run away very at low tide had pretty much signed paddled up to one that housed four quickly. There were many calls of their own death warrant. The smart of them. Three abandoned ship, but ‘bear, bear’ that night. ones stayed in the bay, swimming and eating and avoiding the urge to the last was huge and obviously We set up our first bear hang (all spawn. They just had to watch out the effort of removing itself from the food has to be hung overnight, well for the odd seal. We literally only had platform far outweighed the fear of away from your tent), tripped over to dip our hand in the creek to pull Caoimhin’s approach. a porcupine that I was definitely not out a salmon for dinner, which I think We didn’t get too close to the glacier expecting to see in Alaska, and tried the bears worked out long ago. face, having been warned of the to ignore the smell of decaying fish dangers resulting from calving of on the beach. We departed the bear’s dining room in fresh sunshine and passed the large pieces of ice into the sea and Fish are dumb northern tips of several islands the ensuing fast moving waves. Our camp was on a beach next before stopping in Icy Bay. It was a An iceberg turned over just as to a stream. All the streams we long paddle, and I think our eyesight we passed it, and I have to say I passed on Evans Island were might have been going towards wouldn’t want to get caught too close well and truly in the middle of the the end of the day. The suspected to that. salmon run, when salmon return to boats in the distance turned out to A strange encounter their birthplace to spawn the next be icebergs, and we were delighted After breakfast we continued on generation. to play with our very first bergs that were the size of a kitchen sink. to Jackpot Bay, where we found a The salmon on this beach were protected campsite above a narrow Ice with that? thrashing their way up a very shallow strip of beach that disappeared stream to deeper more stable waters The camp was on an island that at high tide. We were sitting and further up. The fish either died in connected to the mainland via a enjoying the gorgeous sunset when the process of trying to get up the low tide land bridge. It was high tide a small boat went past, quite close stream or died after spawning, so when we arrived and there were to the beach. We watched with whichever way you look at it the very few icebergs near the campsite. puzzlement as they turned around outcome wasn’t great. The fresh We awoke to a beach covered in at the headland and came back ones looked good; the ones that icebergs and the bay choked full, past us again. They then turned had been working at it for a while which we dodged between for again to pass us much closer in. No
Left to right: Red Salmon with a death wish, Caoimhin approaching a sea lion on an iceberg in Nassau Fjord
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 48 49
smile or wave; the three people on beach, creating a wall of water that wind ruffled our hair (Caoimhin grew the boat just looked at us and then they pushed before them, only to a beard), we complained that the disappeared. I assure you, Caoimhin suddenly turn at the other end of the conditions were getting too rough and I were both dressed and quietly beach with a mighty flurry of fins and and we might have to stop. sipping on hot chocolates at the tails, thrashing the water to stun the We travelled on to the mouth time. They were the first people we’d fish into submission before gulping of Culross Passage, and were seen on the trip, and we found the them down. They repeated this disgruntled to discover a boat-full experience disquieting. many times over a period of about of young men on the beach at our You orca see this!! 40 minutes, with Caoimhin and I planned campsite. Fortunately they standing in awed silence, hearts were just leaving, but the rotters left We moved on along Dangerous pounding and afraid to call out in a pile of prawn heads on the beach Passage, and after a fairly uneventful case we disturbed them. day, set up camp on Knight Island to fester in the sun, which we caught Passage at Point Nowell. We had As they drifted back into the main a whiff of every now and then as the started finding established campsites passage, with an occasional tail slap wind came through. The campsite by this point, with tent sites levelled for good measure, a salmon leaped was clearly a popular one, with out in sheltered spots on a bed out of the water, thumbing its nose established sites, and even a swing of smoothed slate pebbles. We at the giants who were departing. seat made from driftwood. We had a stopped on the steep pebble beach A male orca with its straighter and swim, relaxed in the sunshine, and and considered a swim, but decided much larger dorsal fin drifted past collected water (most days you could not to as we’d had one the night about half an hour later and a local pick this up every few kilometres). I before. The water was about ten sea lion cleaned up the leftovers. watched as Caoimhin paddled into
degrees, so a decision to swim was not taken lightly. It’s sunny again the beach after collecting water, We were in the process of setting followed by a hopeful seal. It was about this time in the trip up camp when we noticed a couple that we started to wonder about We saw many Harbour Seals, but of fins far out in the passage that the weather. We were warned to never more than one at a time. appeared to be moving towards our expect bad weather and to avoid They often followed one of us at a beach. We grabbed our cameras, as certain crossings with 50km fetch distance, with just the top half of we hadn’t seen any whales yet and in case we experienced gale their heads above water. I think they were excited to see what they’d be force winds and seas up to three spent more time stalking Caoimhin, – Caoimhin heading to the rocks at metres. However, we ordered the but as he pointed out, that’s because one end, while I stationed myself in honeymoon bliss package, so we I couldn’t see the ones following me. the middle of the beach. heard the same thing each night Fishing is a popular pastime in the They came closer and closer…and when we listened to the weather Sound, so the seals have learned to closer, until they were practically forecast on the VHF radio. Tomorrow associate boats with free fish scraps. on our beach. Then, just to up the will be 70 degrees Fahrenheit (about I’m not sure why they had to follow ante the pod of about eight female 20 degree Celsius), sunny, with little us when there were streams full of orcas, including one calf, took to no winds. If there was the slightest salmon just hanging around waiting turns to sweep up and down the increase in pitch on the water, or the to be eaten.
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 48 49
A missing campsite bother with “wet” paddle gear. Given It’s raining parachutes the sunny weather and light winds Culross Passage was a lovely Our paddle around to Blackstone we experienced, we had no cause diversion. The passage splits Bay was hot, and so calm we once to fall into the water, so we baked. If Culross Island in two and gets very again had a mirror finish on the narrow and shallow. We spotted a anyone wants to lose weight by the water. A large plane kept flying group of five river otters catching old-fashioned method of sweating it overhead in wide circles, creating fish. River otters are smaller than off, I can recommend wearing a dry an annoying drone that made you sea otters, sleeker and darker and suit in the sun in 20 degree, calm want to swat it away like a mosquito. with a long tail. We found we could weather. The upside of a drysuit is Suddenly it dipped closer to land and usually get closer to river otters than you can float really well – like Dead spewed out a string of parachutists to sea otters, but they were still very Sea kind of floating. and cargo. They drifted down to shy. We were unable to locate the the water just off Point Pigot. The plane continued to fly around for a There was a little wind, so we stuck campsite marked on the topo map while, but we couldn’t see what the close to shore, but it was mostly at the northern end of Culross parachutists did next, as they were welcome as a way to reduce the Passage, so paddled on to Point too far away. heat. Based on advice we had about Cochrane, where we could see typical conditions in the Sound, barges being towed up the main With regular glimpses of distant we had bought dry suits for the shipping channel towards Whittier. glaciers we paddled into Blackstone trip. While we were packing for the We had paddled all the way back to Bay, stopping at a campsite for trip, we had opted to wear them near our starting point, but we were lunch. A quick paddle up the throughout the paddle, and not not returning just yet. adjacent creek found more salmon,
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 50
and we returned to the bay to the the place to ourselves. We spent Warm, calm weather is perfect for sound of more huffing – another a day investigating the Blackstone flies. They love it and breed like group of orcas was passing. They and Beloit Glaciers at the end of crazy in large numbers. And then didn’t stop this time, and we only Blackstone Bay. One had lots of tiny they hang around you in clouds managed to get a few glimpses of icebergs; the other had none. of loving devotion, following you their fins before they moved on. While the sun dipped over the wherever you go. Paddling fast As we moved off to our camp on horizon at approximately 9 pm, and away from land doesn’t help. Willard Island, I veered off to follow darkness usually only descended at They drop behind a little, but as a sea otter that was moving at a about 11 pm each night. We were soon as you stop, they catch up to cracking pace into the bay. Even between the 60th and 61st parallels shower you with affection again, though he was on his back with his north, so had about 19 hours of covering your face with little kisses. paws on his chest, I was struggling light each day. We stayed up late Caoimhin didn’t seem to appreciate to keep up with him in my kayak. on our first night on Willard, as we them much, and expended a lot of Caoimhin came over to see what had a fairly easy paddle planned the energy trying to out-distance them. It I was doing, at which point the following day. I was just heading to didn’t work (that was the funny bit). otter dived under. A few seconds bed when Caoimhin called to me to We’ve got lots of photos of our little later he came to the surface again join him. A faint green shimmer could friends, who ruined many a glacier immediately next to my kayak, got be seen in the sky over the western shot. Thankfully we were advised a huge fright, as did I, and dived flank of mountains in the bay. I to take head nets, which kept the again with a big splash. We saw grabbed my SLR camera and found ‘no-see-ums’ away. The flies kept us him surface again some distance myself a stump to prop it on, hoping company for another night on Willard away, moving even faster (if that was desperately that I could capture the Island. possible). Caoimhin caught him on growing green and red shimmers Traffic video later in the day from the land. that were snaking across the sky. It was time to head back to Whittier Light show We had never thought we would see the northern lights, as we were so far and into the main shipping channel. Our camp on Willard Island was south, so we were well pleased that We left the quiet retreats behind, almost directly below an eagle’s we got the opportunity. I was even stopping for one night in Passage nest that housed two well-developed more excited when after returning to Canal near Trinity Point, listening to fledglings. We would see them civilisation I was able to adjust the boats drone by until the wee hours. fly overhead regularly. The island light on my 30-second exposures to It was the start of a long weekend in trapped water in pools at low tide, show a sky full of colour that I never Alaska and everyone was making giving us great opportunities for dreamed I had captured. the most of the good end-of-season reflection photos. There was plenty Racing the flies weather. We still had enough to reflect. We were surrounded by privacy, but didn’t set up our tent snow-covered peaks and glaciers, The warm weather had taken its until dark, as we didn’t want to attract and apart from two tour boats visiting toll by now and led to a situation attention from the hordes passing Blackstone Glacier each day we had that was both annoying and funny. by. We then had a short paddle
DECEMBER 2016 | SALT 51 into Whittier under increasing cloud Trip Notes Weather: Unusually awesome cover, where we returned our gear, Chart: http://www.charts.noaa.gov/ Hire: Ryan Collins, Paddler’s Realm, shared our stories with Ryan Collins OnLineViewer/16700.shtml (Prince Whittier from Paddler’s Realm (top bloke), William Sound) Kayaks: NDK Explorer and headed back to Anchorage for the comfort of a bed and hot shower. Topo Map: National Geographic: Gear: Took some of our own, bought Prince William Sound – West (shows more in Alaska and hired the rest. We couldn’t have had a better kayak camping spots) We loved our Xtratuf Boots – perfect honeymoon. Distance paddled: 220km for Alaska and you’ll fit right in wearing them down the main street Dates: 25 August – 3 September of Anchorage! We had a great tarp, 2016 but didn’t use it. Satellite phone: Surveyors Exchange in Anchorage Left: Our Tetris skills came in handy Icom VHF radio: worked once set to when packing our kayaks with gear “USA” instead of “Intl” and 10 days of food. Compass: Use a Northern Clockwise from below left: Northern Hemisphere compass lights from Willard Island; A lurking seal; The racing sea otter; Caoimhin in front of Beloit Glacier; Evening reflections in Blackstone Bay.
NSW SEA KAYAK CLUB | DECEMBER 2016 Ruby Ardren in Jackpot Bay, Prince William Sound, Alaska (Image: Caoimhin Ardren)