Cristina Fassioof
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INSIDE: The Dream Interview: F.A.Q.: Daily Life in Italy 3 Insider’s Guide to Chianti 7 Cristina American Small Business Owners in Italy 8 Fassio of How to Become an Italian Expatsinitaly.com Citizen 8 All photos by Ruthellyn and Ron Musil All photos by Pretaccione dreamSPECIAL REPORT:LIVING THEof DREAM So you want to be an Expat in Italy … Expatsinitaly.com was born in May ITALYVolume 5, Issue 4 www.dreamofitaly.com May 2006 2004 when American expat Cristina Fassio saw the need for a Web site to answer and assist the numerous AT HOME IN CHIANTI: expatriates living in Italy as well as those thinking about making the One Italian Dream Come True move. It offers up-to-date informa- tion on the ever-changing rules and ike most who visit Italy, we and have no children, our friends are regulations for visas, citizenship and enjoy the shopping. But instead like family. Since many share our how to get a permesso di soggiorno L of scouting out ceramics, leather interest in Italian culture, we thought (permit to stay). The accompanying and linens, we found ourselves “shop- buying a home in Italy, for all of us to message board Expattalk.com hosts ping” in a Tuscan real visit, would help keep us discussions about daily life in Italy. estate office. That’s how close. Another reason for Dream of Italy talked to Fassio our adventure with buying is that once I about the realities of living in Italy: Pretaccione began in 2000. retire, we hope to live there several months of Dream of Italy: How did you end up Our connection to Italy the year. making your life in Italy? really starts long before that, with the family of my husband, Our foray into Italian real estate began Cristina Fassio: I came to Italy from Ron. His maternal grandparents (with during our third visit to Tuscany. We San Francisco in 1994 to take a break the name of Zaccardi) were born in were participants in a food and wine from the restaurant business. I was Sant’ Angelo del Pesco in the Molise week Montestigliano, an olive oil estate 30 and wanted to learn my family’s region, east of Naples. His mother was near Siena. We visited the estate before mother tongue so I came to Siena to one of seven sisters—all fantastic and always looked forward to simply study at the Università per Stranieri. cooks. As a young man, Ron took care “living the life” in Tuscany. One of our After a month though, I was so to capture his mother’s special recipes. fondest memories of Montestigliano bored. As I didn’t speak the language Today, they form the foundation for his was the day we stayed “home,” picked well enough to really make friends passion for Italian cooking, which he fresh herbs for an omelet and enjoyed outside of the school, I felt I needed practices more often now that he is it on the porch while playing Italian to do something else. I ended up retired. Since we married later in life continued on page 4 continued on page 2 About 67,000 Americans live in Italy. Many people come here on vacation and Expats in Italy continued from page 1 to deal with bureaucracy, long lines, finding a job working for a family that areas that are in need of English-speaking DOI: How easy is it to get a job? I’m sure owned one of the nicer hotels in Siena. workers and/or offer good real estate deals? being fluent in Italian really helps but is it I taught English to the children and difficult to get a work permit? If you can’t, helped out in the hotel restaurant CF: The major cities of Rome, Milan, is working under the table a popular (once it is in your blood it is Florence and the rest of Tuscany in practice? hard to get away from the biz). general seem to be the most popular I ended up meeting my now choices. Many Americans working for CF: It is very difficult to find a well- husband there and as they say, multi-national companies are trans- paying job even if one speaks Italian. the rest is history. We have two ferred to Rome or Milan. Unemployment is very high here (in young daughters and now live in some areas, over 28%). As a non- Chianti. (Areas in need of English-speaking European Union citizen chances are workers?) Fifteen years ago I would slim in finding legal work as a way to DOI: You obviously talk to many want-to- have said yes, but many Italians now move to Italy. By law, jobs must go to be expats. What are the biggest misconcep- speak English, in fact most European Italians first, EU citizens second if they tions about living in Italy? What shocks Union (EU) citizens are multi-lingual cannot find a suitable Italian for the job people the most when they actually make and competition (for jobs) is fierce. and a non-EU citizen would be last. the move? Also, you must remember that there Also, work visas are very limited, are already thousands and thousands especially for people from the U.S. and CF: The biggest misconception is that of native English speakers who are Canada. It seems fairly easy to get a job life here is easy. Italy is plagued with already here legally and are already as a nanny or as a teacher of English. bureaucracy. There is time-consuming filling the available jobs. red tape to get through to come here Working under the table is a dangerous legally and also to live here. If you Real estate varies as it does in America. practice and the government is cracking 2 start out in the morning with five Prices for homes in Rome, Milan and down. Those who do work under the errands to run and you accomplish Florence are more expensive than say, table stand the risk of not only getting two of them, you should feel pleased. San Francisco, New York City and caught but also not getting paid at all. Chicago, and Italian apartments are There is no sick leave, maternity leave, Another misconception is that life here smaller. There are still some places to accident insurance or job security. is la dolce vita. If you are retired and be found in Umbria, Puglia and many you have money, then yes it can be but other regions if suburban living DOI: It seems like it might be fairly easy for most of us, we still have to get up among the silver-gray olive trees and to find a job as a nanny or teacher of in the morning, get the kids off to vineyards is your dream. English. What opportunities are there for school, clean the house, wash the professionals with a decade or more of clothes, prepare meals, carpool to after- DOI: Can you briefly tell us what visas, experience—in business, law, medicine for school events, etc. My life here is really documents, etc. Americans need to live in example—to work in Italy? no different than it could be in the U.S. Italy? I personally just feel better living here. CF: Truth be told, getting a job as a CF: To live in Italy you need a visa. teacher is very difficult. Most schools People who believe that moving here This can only be obtained from your will not help with the visa process so will change their lives for the better local Italian consulate. There are differ- unless you can get here another way though are normally the ones who ent kinds of visas depending on why and then get hired, chances are very move back after a short time. Many you are coming over. If you are plan- slim that you could find work. people come here on vacation and ning to retire here, you would need an American lawyers and doctors would think that Italy will be like that every extended stay/long stay visa. have to sit the certification exams in day. On vacation you don’t have to Italian to be able to practice here. As I deal with the bureaucracy, long lines, You can read about visas at mentioned, you cannot work here difficult landlords, permits, laws, etc. Expatsinitaly.com Within eight without a work permit. Reality is very different. days of arrival in Italy you must apply for a permesso di DOI: Are there opportunities for DOI: Are there particular cities/regions soggiorno at the local American expats to volunteer in the com- that are popular with expats? Are there questura (police station). munity or volunteer to teach English, etc? Expat Americans are exempt from paying U.S. inc think Italy will be like that every day. On vacation you don’t have difficult landlords, permits, laws, etc. Reality is very different. CF: Yes, volunteer work in the Americans need to show the prior we all miss cheddar cheese. In general, community is available. Many expats year’s tax return and SSN (Servizio it’s the feeling of being home, walking set up free English lessons for children Sanitá Nazionale) number and the state into the bar on Cheers where everyone after school either in their homes or will calculate 7.5% of your net income knows your name. Yes, you can fit into community halls, churches, etc. to get to the amount you should the neighborhood, make friends and pay to be part of the plan.