INSIDE: The Dream Interview: F.A.Q.: Daily Life in 3 Insider’s Guide to Chianti 7 Cristina American Small Business Owners in Italy 8 Fassio of How to Become an Italian Expatsinitaly.com Citizen 8 All photos by Ruthellyn and Ron Musil All photos by Pretaccione dreamSPECIAL REPORT:LIVING THEof DREAM

So you want to be an Expat in Italy …

Expatsinitaly.com was born in May ITALYVolume 5, Issue 4 www.dreamofitaly.com May 2006 2004 when American expat Cristina Fassio saw the need for a Web site to answer and assist the numerous AT HOME IN CHIANTI: expatriates living in Italy as well as those thinking about making the One Italian Dream Come True move. It offers up-to-date informa- tion on the ever-changing rules and ike most who visit Italy, we and have no children, our friends are regulations for visas, citizenship and enjoy the shopping. But instead like family. Since many share our how to get a permesso di soggiorno L of scouting out ceramics, leather interest in Italian culture, we thought (permit to stay). The accompanying and linens, we found ourselves “shop- buying a home in Italy, for all of us to message board Expattalk.com hosts ping” in a Tuscan real visit, would help keep us discussions about daily life in Italy. estate office. That’s how close. Another reason for Dream of Italy talked to Fassio our adventure with buying is that once I about the realities of living in Italy: Pretaccione began in 2000. retire, we hope to live there several months of Dream of Italy: How did you end up Our connection to Italy the year. making your life in Italy? really starts long before that, with the family of my husband, Our foray into Italian real estate began Cristina Fassio: I came to Italy from Ron. His maternal grandparents (with during our third visit to . We San Francisco in 1994 to take a break the name of Zaccardi) were born in were participants in a food and wine from the restaurant business. I was Sant’ Angelo del Pesco in the Molise week Montestigliano, an olive oil estate 30 and wanted to learn my family’s region, east of Naples. His mother was near . We visited the estate before mother tongue so I came to Siena to one of seven sisters—all fantastic and always looked forward to simply study at the Università per Stranieri. cooks. As a young man, Ron took care “living the life” in Tuscany. One of our After a month though, I was so to capture his mother’s special recipes. fondest memories of Montestigliano bored. As I didn’t speak the language Today, they form the foundation for his was the day we stayed “home,” picked well enough to really make friends passion for Italian cooking, which he fresh herbs for an omelet and enjoyed outside of the school, I felt I needed practices more often now that he is it on the porch while playing Italian to do something else. I ended up retired. Since we married later in life continued on page 4 continued on page 2 About 67,000 Americans live in Italy. Many people come here on vacation and Expats in Italy continued from page 1 to deal with bureaucracy, long lines, finding a job working for a family that areas that are in need of English-speaking DOI: How easy is it to get a job? I’m sure owned one of the nicer hotels in Siena. workers and/or offer good real estate deals? being fluent in Italian really helps but is it I taught English to the children and difficult to get a work permit? If you can’t, helped out in the hotel restaurant CF: The major cities of Rome, Milan, is working under the table a popular (once it is in your blood it is and the rest of Tuscany in practice? hard to get away from the biz). general seem to be the most popular I ended up meeting my now choices. Many Americans working for CF: It is very difficult to find a well- husband there and as they say, multi-national companies are trans- paying job even if one speaks Italian. the rest is history. We have two ferred to Rome or Milan. Unemployment is very high here (in young daughters and now live in some areas, over 28%). As a non- Chianti. (Areas in need of English-speaking European Union citizen chances are workers?) Fifteen years ago I would slim in finding legal work as a way to DOI: You obviously talk to many want-to- have said yes, but many Italians now move to Italy. By law, jobs must go to be expats. What are the biggest misconcep- speak English, in fact most European Italians first, EU citizens second if they tions about living in Italy? What shocks Union (EU) citizens are multi-lingual cannot find a suitable Italian for the job people the most when they actually make and competition (for jobs) is fierce. and a non-EU citizen would be last. the move? Also, you must remember that there Also, work visas are very limited, are already thousands and thousands especially for people from the U.S. and CF: The biggest misconception is that of native English speakers who are Canada. It seems fairly easy to get a job life here is easy. Italy is plagued with already here legally and are already as a nanny or as a teacher of English. bureaucracy. There is time-consuming filling the available jobs. red tape to get through to come here Working under the table is a dangerous legally and also to live here. If you Real estate varies as it does in America. practice and the government is cracking 2 start out in the morning with five Prices for homes in Rome, Milan and down. Those who do work under the errands to run and you accomplish Florence are more expensive than say, table stand the risk of not only getting two of them, you should feel pleased. San Francisco, New York City and caught but also not getting paid at all. Chicago, and Italian apartments are There is no sick leave, maternity leave, Another misconception is that life here smaller. There are still some places to accident insurance or job security. is la dolce vita. If you are retired and be found in Umbria, Puglia and many you have money, then yes it can be but other regions if suburban living DOI: It seems like it might be fairly easy for most of us, we still have to get up among the silver-gray olive trees and to find a job as a nanny or teacher of in the morning, get the kids off to vineyards is your dream. English. What opportunities are there for school, clean the house, wash the professionals with a decade or more of clothes, prepare meals, carpool to after- DOI: Can you briefly tell us what visas, experience—in business, law, medicine for school events, etc. My life here is really documents, etc. Americans need to live in example—to work in Italy? no different than it could be in the U.S. Italy? I personally just feel better living here. CF: Truth be told, getting a job as a CF: To live in Italy you need a visa. teacher is very difficult. Most schools People who believe that moving here This can only be obtained from your will not help with the visa process so will change their lives for the better local Italian consulate. There are differ- unless you can get here another way though are normally the ones who ent kinds of visas depending on why and then get hired, chances are very move back after a short time. Many you are coming over. If you are plan- slim that you could find work. people come here on vacation and ning to retire here, you would need an American lawyers and doctors would think that Italy will be like that every extended stay/long stay visa. have to sit the certification exams in day. On vacation you don’t have to Italian to be able to practice here. As I deal with the bureaucracy, long lines, You can read about visas at mentioned, you cannot work here difficult landlords, permits, laws, etc. Expatsinitaly.com Within eight without a work permit. Reality is very different. days of arrival in Italy you must apply for a permesso di DOI: Are there opportunities for DOI: Are there particular cities/regions soggiorno at the local American expats to volunteer in the com- that are popular with expats? Are there questura (police station). munity or volunteer to teach English, etc? Expat Americans are exempt from paying U.S. inc think Italy will be like that every day. On vacation you don’t have difficult landlords, permits, laws, etc. Reality is very different. CF: Yes, volunteer work in the Americans need to show the prior we all miss cheddar cheese. In general, community is available. Many expats year’s tax return and SSN (Servizio it’s the feeling of being home, walking set up free English lessons for children Sanitá Nazionale) number and the state into the bar on Cheers where everyone after school either in their homes or will calculate 7.5% of your net income knows your name. Yes, you can fit into community halls, churches, etc. to get to the amount you should the neighborhood, make friends and pay to be part of the plan. The chat with neighbors here but it’s the DOI: On another note, someone told me minimum amount is 400€ per sentimental memories from your that it is actually harder to own a car in year, per person. hometown that are missing. Italy (as a foreigner) than to own a house. Is this true? Anyone on the plan can see their pri- DOI: What is more expensive in Italy mary doctor for free and for specialists vs. the U.S.? What is less expensive? CF: That’s very true. All you need to there is a small co-payment, called a buy a house is money. To buy a car “ticket.” The costs are low compared to CF: Wine is less expensive and gaso- though you have to first get the visa the U.S. As an example, paying for an line much more expensive; up to about to enter Italy, then the permesso di sog- MRI out of pocket here costs 35€. $6.00 per gallon. Electricity, phones, giorno, then residency. It might take heating all are at least double what you three months to a year depending on DOI: What do most expats miss about the would pay in America. On the whole, I where you apply. U.S.? What do you miss the most? think food can be less expensive but international foods cost an arm and a DOI: What are the options for medical CF: I have a continuing discussion on leg. A box of biscuits cost around 5€. care/insurance, especially for someone who the forum about what we all miss. It Electronics are also very expensive may be retired? depends on where in America we came here. from. I miss seeing the Golden Gate CF: All residents in Italy have the right Bridge, one New Yorker would like a dream of 3 to join the national health service. warm pretzel from a street vendor and Frequently Asked Questions: Daily Life in Italy ITALY Kathleen A. McCabe Why can’t I find brown sugar and other products (CNN, Fox, BBC Prime, and a few others) as well as Publisher and Editor-In-Chief here? having the option to watch in the original language on Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe The short answer is who knows? There are many things some channels. The second way is more difficult and not Editorial Assistant: Shauna Maher that are more difficult or impossible to find. Brown totally above board but has been done for years. This Design: Leaird Designs sugar like that in the U.S. is not available but there are other way is getting Sky Digital from the U.K. Here you www.leaird-designs.com a few types from the U.K. that look close to perfect so will have to buy a decoder and get a viewing card but Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering if you can find that then go for it. Do not use if you get the family package for example you will have Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States Zucchero di Canna as this is just raw sugar and will not over 100 channels to watch (with many American and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- be the same. Here is a list of the things that you may sitcoms and drama series featured). There are also 12 able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. want to bring with you or have people send: fabric movie channels. You can either try to ask the sat Three ways to subscribe: softener sheets, brown sugar, chocolate chips, baking dealers in your area or find an online source. 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, powder*, antiperspirant/deodorant, Tylenol (Motrin, Advil, Washington, DC, 20016 I always see people hanging their clothes out to etc.), Desitin (for babies), Tums, Jell-O, pudding mixes, 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 dry. Do they not have clothes dryers in Italy? 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, peanut butter cups, manila file folders, scrapbooking Mastercard and American Express accepted) Yes, there are dryers but they came into normal usage items, Ziploc bags. Editorial feedback is welcome. very recently. There are two types, either vented or E-mail: [email protected] * Baking powder here comes in little packets condensation. For the vented ones you will need to Advertising opportunities are available. called Lievito per dolci. It works okay but a lot make a hole in the wall, window or door going to the E-mail: [email protected] of it has vanilla flavoring added to it. outside. Because of this where you put the dryer is very Copyright © 2006 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights important. I have one that works with condensation. Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- Is there any way to get television in English? mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide There are two ways. One way, the easy way, is to sign At the end of the cycle you need to empty the water. information that is accurate and reliable; however, up with Sky Italia (Italian Satellite providers). You will Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that —Cristina Fassio may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com then be able to watch a couple of English stations ome tax on foreign wages up to $80,000 annually. At Home in Chianti continued from page 1 By the time we left Tuscany five days property manager and were opera classics for the locals who were with the real estate office, we forgot Instead, we set out to learn what had harvesting olives in the front yard. Pretaccione—for the time being. become of Pretaccione. In the Castellina real estate office, the agent During that trip, while part of our food However, the concept of owning a we knew was at his desk, uncharacter- and wine group shopped in Castellina, home in Italy stuck with us and we istically free of appointments that after- we stopped in at the local real talked about it frequently over the noon. As we renewed our acquain- estate office. On a cold, wet day next 18 months. When we learned tance, he insisted we immediately see later in the week, we made our through a friend about an estate in the progress first hand. Skeptical was a first visit to the tiny village of the historic Etruscan area of Crevole mild description for how we felt at that Pretacionne. Now, just a few build- that might be for sale, we quickly moment. But what was there to lose ings, it was once the home of itinerant but a little time? priests, and is some 1,000 years old. In the heart of the Chianti Classico wine When we arrived at Pretaccione, we region, it sits on the property of the learned that the apartments featuring Dievole Winery and Spa. the wood-burning oven and the beauti- ful arches of the stable, as well as the free-standing barn had been sold. But several apartments were still available, including two at the opposite end of the farmhouse that included substan- tial land and a charming well on an upper terrace.

4 By the time we left Tuscany five days later, we had met with Pretaccione’s project manager and property manager and were armed with blueprints and a We walked through the property— packet of information about buying a sitting on a hill overlooking a valley property in Italy. We had a high degree filled with olive groves and vine- of confidence about Pretaccione and its yards—and inspected the three developers, but we set out to confirm buildings that were to be restored. our feelings through references. planned a “shopping” trip. The owner The original complex consisted of a graciously invited us to stay free of First, we talked to a couple who had large main building that could be charge in one of three rental apart- invested in a similar property several divided into several apartment/homes, ments, enabling us to experience the years ago. That investment had gone the original pigsty (porcille) and a stone property first-hand. so well that they were buying a second barn. We concentrated on the main property—at nearby Vignale. They had building and considered how several While the notion that this beautiful an established relationship with the areas that were designated to be sold place in Tuscany could be ours property management company and as separate apartments could be com- was intoxicating, the reality of its its owners, and provided positive bined into one comfortable home. Our “off the beaten path” location set recommendations. We also talked plan was to combine the apartment in. It took at least an hour to get to with an American couple and a featuring the historic wood-burning our favorite towns like Castellina British family who had already oven (fornaio) with another that was and Radda. We would need to do bought at Pretaccione. They confirmed once the stable. extensive renovation and wondered our instincts about the potential of the who would coordinate the project for property, the integrity of the restora- Ultimately though, we found it hard to us? And once completed, who would tion and the capabilities of the proper- imagine how the rubble we saw could manage the property? We quickly ty manager. These were several of our be successfully restored, and following determined that Crevole was not major concerns about buying. a few frustrating e-mail exchanges for us. Chianti Classico wine is made up of Sangiovese, later, we had met with Pretaccione’s project manager and armed with blueprints and information on buying property in Italy. The legal aspects of the transaction also into a spacious professional kitchen concerned us and we asked for opin- with a woodburning spit roaster, a ions. One couple did not have legal large family room (soggiorno) representation with fireplace and dining area at all. The anchored by an antique British folks Tuscan table. The entry area had worked includes a half bath with laun- with a British dry facilities. A spacious guest lawyer head- bedroom with en-suite marble quartered in bathroom completes the first floor. Milan. We ulti- Upstairs features two additional bed- mately decided rooms, including our “master.” Each on a Florentine has a marble bathroom. We also have a attorney, rec- large library/reading room with a mar- ommended by ble fireplace and its own kitchenette, a couple from carefully placed out of sight. Through- New York. We took this step because out the house we have zoned radiant we thought it was important to have hot water heat in the floor. This creates an attorney who could help us navi- a more even heat than the traditional gate the buying process, while giving wall radiators found in most Italian us a crash course in Italian culture. His payment, 50% of the price, was at $1.26 construction. We furnished our home fee was significant, but his service and to the euro. We did some negotiating locally and shipped over tools, silver- support were flawless. In the end, his at the end, so when you average out ware and other incidentals that are negotiating skills saved us much more the cost of those three payments, we harder to find in the countryside. 5 than his cost. came out about even at a dollar per euro. In retrospect, we wish we would One of the hardest parts of buying was While we planned to pay cash for have moved our entire purchase the Italian purchase process, which the property (mortgaging proper- amount to Italy when we made the takes two steps: first, the compromesso ty is possible but complicated), decision to buy, and “locked in” a phase, and then the “deed of transfer.” we needed a bank to handle fund strong dollar. The first phase does not transfer title, transfers and payments to the but creates a fully binding obligation developers. Again, our network As the summer of 2002 progressed, between buyer and seller. It provides of friends and associates paid huge designs for our home came together for a sum of money to be handed over dividends. We were introduced to an via e-mail, while the from purchaser to seller excellent local banker by Susan property was still an as a deposit; escrow Pennington, the manager at untouched shell of rub- arrangements are not Montestigliano. ble. We planned to customary. What this enter into the purchase When we started the purchase process, agreement when we continued on page 6 the dollar was stronger than the euro. returned that Over the two-and-a-half-year process September. By Tuscan of buying and restoration, the dollar law, the exterior had to started strong, but weakened to remain as it was, with approximately $1.30 per euro by the no alterations. time we closed. When we purchased However, we were our home and began restoration, we given almost total paid 25% of the price and the euro was freedom to design the about 85 cents on the dollar. When the interior. walls went up and roof finished, we paid another 25% and the euro and the Today, our first floor dollar were about comparable. Our last has been transformed white Trebbiano, Malvasia and Canaiolo grapes. At Home in Chianti continued from page 1

meant was that we birthday party, which As the week progresses, we do things would pay over half of also brought together typical of any homeowner. We’ll visit the purchase price the many friends that the hardware store in nearby while the restoration we made along the Gaiole, and visit the local butcher was underway, and way to restoring our who makes a fantastic Bolognese have nothing more than property. We cele- sauce. We’ll also add to our collec- signed documents in a brated at Dievole, tion of terra cotta, with a visit to foreign country protect- which added special Vetus, a few kilometers south. We’ll ing our investment. meaning to the celebra- shop for ceramics at Angela Paganini’s More than once we tion since our home is kiln just outside of Radda. Our favorite asked ourselves: What if on the winery’s property. spots for lunch include La Gratta della something goes wrong? Rana in San Sano (which features wines What if the developers just Currently, we live our from the nearby Castello de Ama) and walked away? dream with two 10-day trips Lamole in Greve, which has incredible each year, with one almost views of Chianti from its terrace. Another challenge was the always in May, when the Another classic is the hilltop town of time it would take to turn poppies are in bloom and , where everyone is welcomed our dream into reality. The the temperature is warm. personally by the owner, Carla, and her process took nearly a year Our other favorite time to family. longer to complete than visit is the fall—either originally anticipated. But September, when the grapes For the time being, we’ve chosen not to the outcome was beyond our are being picked, or November, when rent our home, although many of our expectations, and included olives are harvested and pressed into half-dozen neighbors have done so 6 some delightful surprises along oil. We try to leave Chicago on successfully. Instead, we’ve made it the way. The most significant Thursday and arrive on Friday. That available to friends and family in the was the discovery of the cister- way, we are rested enough to visit the hopes that they, too, will enjoy living na. What we thought was a well Saturday morning market the life in Chianti. turned out to be a 40-foot-deep cistern in Castellina, where we hand carved out of bedrock with an stock up on food and flow- Owning property so far original terra cotta ceiling and floor. ers, and say hello to good away may not make sense Thanks to the vision of our project friends Claire and Mario for everyone. For us, it works manager, the cistern, is now ready to Capelletti. because we have an extraor- become a wine cellar and tasting room, dinary property with a winding staircase to the bottom, Claire, a native of management compa- and skylight above. Chicago, operates a ny, whose owner shop that was start- treats our home as Following the “deed of transfer,” we ed by her hus- her own. If having a visited our home for the first time as band’s family. It “home base” is owners. As we sat on the floor in the offers beautiful important to you (as empty house, we were amazed what leathers, scarves it is to us), it’s a had been accomplished through net- and shoes. I’ve dream that CAN working, via e-mail, and relatively few learned that the fea- come true. If you’ve visits to see the restoration in progress. tured color there will most certain- ever considered living your own Much credit was due to our project ly be in the U.S. the following “Dream of Italy” we hope you manager, who had clearly put heart year. Mario, a marathon runner, found our experience with and soul into our home at Pretaccione. brokers some of the best antiques Pretaccione an inspiration.

in the region and we’re fortunate Ruthellyn Musil is a media executive in Chicago. We stayed at our home in Chianti for to have many of his pieces in our Her husband Ron is happy to share advice the first time in May, 2004, joined by home. To complete the day, we’ll dine with prospective buyers via e-mail at two couples who are special friends. at Antica Ristorante La Torre, savoring [email protected] or by phone at (312) 337-9082 The highlight of the week was my roast pork and cannelloni. (weekdays) or (920) 729-1394 (weekends). The name Chianti probably evolved from the na An Insider’s Guide to Visiting Chianti

Pretaccione Where to Stay (39) 333 2495106 Where to Shop www.to-tuscany.com/pretaccione Dievole Winery and Villa Dievolino La Bottega Antichità Vagliali Six of our neighbors rent their homes Via Ferruccio, 36 (39) 0577 322613 through this Web site. For example, www.dievole.it La Torre is a large apartment that sleeps (39) 0577 740980 eight. It rents for 800 to 1350€ per week, www.tuscanantiques.com Our home is on the grounds of Dievole depending on the season. Fornaio is a Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, and we highly recommend a tour of the one-bedroom, one-bath house at the 10 a.m. -1 p.m.; 3:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.; winery. southwest end of the Pretaccione, renting Monday, 3:30 p.m.- 7:30 p.m. Closed € Book a tour for around 11 a.m. or noon, for 360 to 680 per week. All rentals Sunday. and tell them you’d like to have lunch fol- include shared pool and tennis facilities. lowing the tour, which should end between Sean Caulfield, who helped us buy our We have many of Mario’s antiques in our 3 and 4 p.m. English is spoken so you’ll home, can help with rentals and sales. His home. Visit his store for everything from have no problem setting things up. You e-mail is [email protected] antique Tuscan furniture to Venetian glass can also purchase wine there; we under- to antique Russian icons. stand that guests at Pretaccione receive a small discount on purchases, so it’s worth Where to Eat Cappelletti Pelletteria asking. Via Ferruccio, 43 Dievole also makes a wonderful place to La Grotta della Rana Castellina in Chianti stay in Chianti. There are guest suites in San Sano () (39) 0577 740420 the main villa (Villa Dievolino) and other (39) 0577 746020 www.lebotteghe.com refurbished houses on the property. If you www.ristorantichianti.it/english/larana.html Hours: Same as Mario’s shop. have a larger group, you can rent out the The central piazza of the small village of Across the street from Mario is his wife 7 four-bedroom guesthouse — Casa San Sano features a fountain with a frog Claire’s boutique specializing in leather Dievolino. Reasonable rates. drinking from a bottle of Chianti wine. The shoes, belts and accessories for men and fountain inspired the name of this delight- women. The store also carries lovely Montestigliano Farm Holidays in ful country style restaurant. scarves that make great gifts. Tuscany Loc. Montestigliano Rosia Ristoro di Lamole La Ceramica di Angela Pianigiani Sovicille (near Gaiole) Lamole Malpensata (39) 0577 342189 (39) 0558 547050 www.montestigliano.it www.ristorodilamole.it Driving toward Castellina in Chianti, look for a sign about eight kilometers outside The restored 18th century villas on this Closed Wednesday . We can’t find any con- olive estate can be rented out on a weekly This tiny hilltop village is home to the great tact information at the moment, but that’s basis. Each sleeps between three and 12 restaurant, Ristoro di Lamole, boasting half the fun of this place. people. Montestigliano offers a series of one of the best views of Chianti in all the “gourmet weeks” throughout the year and land. Be sure to reserve a table ahead of manager Susan Pennington is happy to time. The staff speaks English. Vetus Terrecotte help guests plan their own programs to , Autostrada 223 include ceramics workshops and language Sovicille (near Gaiole) courses. An example of rental rates – La Torre Antica Ristorante (39) 0577 347822 Casa Adriana, which sleeps four, rents for Piazza del www.vetus.si.it 760 to 1,410€ per week, depending on Castellina in Chianti Find reasonably priced terra cotta pieces – the season. (39) 0577 740236 www.anticatrattorialatorre.com animals, planters, jugs – here at Vetus. Closed Friday Proprietor Carlo Pianigiani, a Chicago Bulls fan, is very helpful should you wish For more information, The Stiaccini family has been serving up to ship things back to the U.S. Chiantigiana cuisine since 1876. This read Dream of Italy’s — R.M. Special Report: Chianti, restaurant is beloved by locals. September 2004. 1 € = $1.28 at press time me of the local noble Etruscan family, Clantes. Entrepreneurial Expats: Americans Making Their Own Way in Italy Starting a business in Italy can be a complicated endeavor, filled with procuring permits and registering with various offices, but a number of Americans have found it to be a viable way to make a life in Italy. Here are some examples:

NORA KRAVIS: GINDA SIMPSON: CHRISTOPHER WINNER: Chianti Cashmere El Marsam Bed and Breakfast The American Magazine

Kravis left Long Island, N.Y. for Italy over When Italian-American Ginda Simpson’s hus- After years spent traveling thirty years ago to study veterinary medicine band Mike lost his job as an expat in the oil the globe, reporting for the at the University of Pisa. In the late 1980s, industry in Egypt, the couple bought a 400- likes of USA TODAY, United she established the first herd of Cashmere year-old farmhouse in Umbria, transforming Press International and goats in Italy it into the El Marsam B &B. El Marsam offers Newsweek, Winner founded Today, her three double rooms and one studio, starting his own publication in 2003. Chianti at 75€ per night. Simpson chronicles her life The American is a Rome- Cashmere in Umbria in the book, Deeply Rooted in Faith based general-interest monthly dedicated to Company cre- and Family. Visit www.elmarsam.com for giving Italy’s English-speaking residents insight ates Cashmere more information. into Italian culture, politics and lifestyle.The scarves, blankets and shawls as well as skin 10,000-circulation magazine is a great care products made from goat’s milk. In resource for those considering a move to addition, Kravis breeds Bolognese dogs at Italy and can be found on newsstands in Italy her Radda in Chianti property, where she or online at www.theamericanmag.com also rents out a farmhouse to visitors. Visit www.chianticashmere.com for more € information. 1 = $1.28 at press time

8 Living the Dream: SO YOU WANT These Books Can Help TO BECOME AN Living Abroad in Italy Living, Studying and Working in Italy: ITALIAN CITIZEN? (Avalon, $17.95) by John Everything You Need to Know to Live La Here’s how you may qualify: Moretti is a great read, Dolce Vita (Henry Holt and Company, $17) • You have an Italian grandfather and even if you are just by Travis Neighbor Ward and Monica Larner were born after 1947. “dreaming” of living in is also an excellent resource, particularly for Italy. Moretti explains the those interested in studying and working in • You were born in Italy and are over nuts and bolts of moving Italy. Nearly eighty pages are devoted to the age of 21. to Italy while including learning in Italy – whether spending a semes- • You have Italian parents. short profiles of ter abroad during college or attending an American expats in Italy Italian language • You are married to an Italian citizen. and plenty of interesting facts about Italian school at any age. • You have lived in Italy culture. Did you know that Italy has one of About one hundred for more than a the highest home ownership rates in Europe, pages are devoted to decade. the cost of living in Naples is 79% of that in working in Italy, Milan and Italians are second only to the including internships, Dual citizenship is possible Japanese in their rate of savings? More than a volunteering and for American citizens. For third of the book is devoted to profiles of starting a business. more information, contact the Italy’s regions and major cities, including an The book has a Italian Embassy in Washington, explanation of the pros and cons of buying helpful list of DC at (202) 612-4422 or property in each place, making this book companies and organizations that sometimes www.ambwashingtondc.esteri.it especially helpful to those looking to buy a employ foreigners. home in Italy. Ninety percent of Italian businesses are family-owned.