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The Role of Food Culture in Everyday Nationalism the Case of Singapore’S Hawker Centres

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The Role of Food Culture in Everyday Nationalism the Case of Singapore’S Hawker Centres UNIVERSITEIT VAN AMSTERDAM The Role of Food Culture in Everyday Nationalism The case of Singapore’s Hawker Centres Kelly Ong (11706791) 6/14/2018 Master Thesis in Human Geography 2017 – 2018 Supervisor: Virginie Mamadouh Word Count: 25 000 1 2 Table of Contents 1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................................... 5 2. Theoretical Framework .................................................................................................................................. 9 2.1 Everyday Nationalism .................................................................................................................................. 9 2.1.1 Meaning of the everyday ..................................................................................................................... 10 2.1.2 Concept of Sedimentation ................................................................................................................... 12 2.1.3 Concept of Human Agency .................................................................................................................. 12 2.1.4 Concept of Identification and Categorization .................................................................................... 13 2.1.5 Summary: Everyday Nationalism ...................................................................................................... 14 2.2 Food Culture ............................................................................................................................................... 15 2.2.1 Banal Representation of Nations in Food .......................................................................................... 16 2.2.2 Constructing, Reproducing and Challenging Nationalism ............................................................... 17 2.2.3 Summary: Food Culture ...................................................................................................................... 18 2.3 Everyday Places .................................................................................................................................. 19 2.4 Summary ..................................................................................................................................................... 20 3. Singapore’s Hawker Centres: Food-Nationalism Axis ................................................................................... 22 3.1 Nationalism: CMIO .................................................................................................................................... 22 3.2 Street Hawking to Hawker Centres .......................................................................................................... 27 3.2.1 Humble beginnings .............................................................................................................................. 27 3.2.2 Modernizing Singapore, Hawker Centres .......................................................................................... 28 3.2.3 Hawker Centres Today ........................................................................................................................ 29 3.3 Hawker Food Culture: Everyday Life and Belonging .............................................................................. 30 3.4 Summary: Food-and-Nationalism Axis ..................................................................................................... 32 4. Research Methodology ...................................................................................................................................... 34 4.1 Methodology ................................................................................................................................................ 34 4.2 Research Design: Case Study .................................................................................................................... 35 4.3 Field Data: Hawker Centres ...................................................................................................................... 36 4.4 Survey Data ................................................................................................................................................ 37 4.5 Limitations and external validity .............................................................................................................. 41 4.6 Ethical considerations ................................................................................................................................ 42 4.7 Summary ..................................................................................................................................................... 42 5. Hawker Stories ................................................................................................................................................. 43 5.1 Banal representations of hawker food....................................................................................................... 43 5.2 ‘Multiracial’ Hawker Centres .................................................................................................................... 47 5.3 Racial-Language Mixing ............................................................................................................................ 53 5.4 Hawker Food Culture ................................................................................................................................. 55 5.5 Hawking Histories ...................................................................................................................................... 64 3 5.6 Summary ..................................................................................................................................................... 70 6. Hawker Centres: Everyday Food-Nationalism Battlegrounds ...................................................................... 71 6.1 Identifications of Singaporeans Today ...................................................................................................... 71 6.2 Frequency of consuming hawker food ....................................................................................................... 72 6.3 What do you associate Hawker Centres with? ......................................................................................... 73 6.4 Everyday Battlegrounds: Hawker Stalls .................................................................................................. 74 6.4.1 ‘Sarabat Stall’ ....................................................................................................................................... 74 6.4.2 ‘Tze Char Stall’..................................................................................................................................... 76 6.4.3 ‘China Stall’ .......................................................................................................................................... 77 6.4.4 ‘Eurasian and Nonya stall’ .................................................................................................................. 78 6.5 Meaning of Hawker Centres: Members of the Nation ............................................................................. 79 6.6 Favourite Hawker Centres ........................................................................................................................ 80 6.7: Hawker Centres: National Icons and Best Representations of Singapore? ........................................... 81 6.8 External perspectives of Hawker Centres and Food ................................................................................ 83 7. Discussion ......................................................................................................................................................... 85 7.1 Vernacular understandings ....................................................................................................................... 85 7.2 Everyday geographies of inclusion and exclusion .................................................................................... 86 8. Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................................... 88 Section 8.1 Response to the main research question ..................................................................................... 88 8.1.1 Food Culture and Everyday Nationalism .......................................................................................... 88 8.1.2 The Case of Singapore’s Hawker Centres .......................................................................................... 88 8.1.3 Food, Nationalism, and the Everyday as Processes .......................................................................... 89 Section 8.2 Evaluation of the study and its limitations ................................................................................. 89 8.3 Contribution to existing literature ............................................................................................................ 90 8.3.1 Everyday nationalism ......................................................................................................................... 90 8.3.2 Food Culture ........................................................................................................................................ 91 8.3.3
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