Woven Fabric Cheat Sheet
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A Fabricquick, comprehensive guideCheat of woven fabrics, Sheet for use in apparel sewing (and the best patterns to use with them.) Fabric Weight/Thickness Guide: Lighter weight fabrics are usually most suitable for tops while you’ll find panthold up better with a bottom-weight woven that is thciker like twill, denim, etc. Lighter is generally around 4-5oz per yard and bottom- weights around 8-16oz per yard. Fiber Guide: Cotton: Breathable Polyester: Warmer, usually Slicker Rayon: Soft, Drapey Weave: Weave is how tightly the fabrics are weaved together. A looser weave, like linen and flannel are better for a looser garment so the weave isn’t strained. Looser weaved fabric can’t stand up to high strain without fraying even when the fabric is finished properly. Copyright Patterns for Pirates © 2017 1 Fabric Cheat Sheet Fabric Cheat Sheet Sheers Drapey not Sheer Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Content Patterns Content Patterns Chiffon lightweight, sheer, Va r i e s Summer Kimono, Rayon Challis super soft drape, Rayon Everyday Elegance, some can be slink- Everyday Elegance, lighterweight, very Summer Kimono, ier, highly twisted Gathered Skirts breathable Timeless Tunic, fibers that create (like the Boundless) Brunch Blouse, super soft drape that are Lined. Gathered Skirts (like the Boundless) Georgette lightweight, semi- Va r i e s Summer Kimono, sheer, crepe-like Everyday Elegance, Crepe textured, light- Va i r e s Everyday Elegance, texture, highly Gathered Skirts weight, soft drape Summer Kimono, twisted fibers that (like the Boundless) Timeless Tunic, create a very soft that are Lined, Brunch Blouse, drape Brunch Blouse and Gathered Skirts Timeless Tunic (like the Boundless) depending on how Crepe de Chine smooth face, slight Silk, Poly Everyday Elegance, s h e e r. sheen, lightweight, Summer Kimono, Guaze/Double lightweight, looser/ Usually cotton, Timeless Tunic, Timeless Tunic, Gauze open weave, semi- sometimes silk Brunch Blouse, and Brunch Blouse, sheer I also love baby Gathered Skirts blankets for warm (like the Boundless) weather from this. Charmuse very lightweight Often used for Voile lightweight, semi- Cotton Timeless Tunic, stain, shiny, soft slips/lingerie, bind- sheer, stiffer/ Brunch Blouse, drape ing on baby blan- crisp, “cotton-like” Gathered Skirts kets, You could but lighterweight (like the Boundless) make Timeless, Everyday Elegance, Brunch Blouse. Onion Skin suddle texture on Everyday Elegance, back side that re- Summer Kimono, sembles an onion’s Timeless Tunic, skin, soft drape, Brunch Blouse, lightweight Gathered Skirts (like the Boundless) Peachskin soft drape, soft Everyday Elegance, feel with suddle Summer Kimono, brushed texture on Timeless Tunic, right side Brunch Blouse, Gathered Skirts (like the Boundless) Copyright Patterns for Pirates © 2017 2 Copyright Patterns for Pirates © 2017 3 Fabric Cheat Sheet Fabric Cheat Sheet Structured Bottom Weights Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Content Patterns Content Patterns Quilting Cotton stiff/crisp, wrin- Cotton Sweet Bow Dress, Denim Classic blue jean Cotton, some con- Cpt. Comfort Jeans kles easily Lumberjack Shirt, fabric, twilled with tain some spandex PJ Pants, 2 colors weaved in Muslin looser weave, low Cotton Used to make Twill Tough like den- Cotton Cpt. Comfort Jeans thread count “mock up”, trials im, appears very for fit close to a denim Shirting has slight stretch Cotton, Spandex Classicly used for Corduroy Vertical rows of Cotton Cpt. Comfort Jeans button up shirts. raised waling, Sweet Bow Dress, wales will tell you Lumberjack Shirt how wide those rows are, warm- Oxford lighterweight shirt- Cotton Lumerback Shirt er/good for cold- ing, looser weave er weather Madras Madras describes Cotton Pirate Playground, Suiting Classicaly used for Cpt. Comfort Jeans the dying tech- Lumberjack Shirt, suits nique. Often plaids Sweet Bow Dress, pieced together in Sporty Shorties Poplin Ridges run across Cotton Cpt. Comport a patchwork look face, close to a Jeans, Linen denim/twill in feel Loungers Lawn lighterweight cot- Cotton, Linen Timeless Tunic, ton, softer but still Brunch Blous, Linen Rougher weave ap- Flax, blends tend to Linen Loungers, crisp, wrinkles less Sweet Bow Dress, parence, crisp, but have Poly and Ray- Pirate Playground, than a regular cot- Lumberjack Shirt has slight drape on mixed in Sporty Shorties ton, “hankerchief depending on con- linen” tent, breathable/ good for hotter Chambray vaires is weight, Usually Cotton, but Timeless Tunic, weather has a color warp sometimes has Sweet Bow Dress, (usually blue, but Rayon, Silk Lumberjack Shirt, not always), stiff/ Sporty Shorties, crisp depending on Linen Loungers, fiber content Pirate Playground Seersucker textured/woven Cotton Lumberjack Shirt, pucker, breathable, Sweet Bow Dress, stiff/crisp Sporty Shorties, Linen Loungers, Pirate Playground Flannel Brushed, warm/ Cotton Lumberjack Shirt, good for colder PJs, Timeless Tunic weather Copyright Patterns for Pirates © 2017 4 Copyright Patterns for Pirates © 2017 5 Fabric Cheat Sheet Lets Get Fancy Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Content Patterns Ta f f e t a stiff/crisp, sheen, Silk Sweet Bow Dress usually used in formal wear for a fuller skirt, does wrinkle easily Organza lightweight, sheer, SIlk, Rayon, Poly, or Gathered Skirts stiffer/crisp, usu- Nylon (like the Bound- ally used in more less). formal Satin shiney, smooth Silk, Rayon Sweet Bow Dress face Silk shiney, can be Sllk Generally used in rough or smooth formal wear. face, drape also vaires Chiffon lightweight, sheer, Va r i e s Summer Kimono, (I placed this in some can be slink- Everyday Elegance, both everyday ier, highly twisted Gathered Skirts wear sheers and fibers that create (like the Boundless) fancy as it can be super soft drape that are Lined. styled both ways very easily). Copyright Patterns for Pirates © 2017 6.