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igh-end nightclubs. Adventurous dining. Hypermod- ern architecture. What happened to that nice little HNavy town of San Diego? Well, that sleepy burg has woken up and it wants to party. Growth has been fast and furious over the past 2 decades and this Southern California city now finds itself with a glittering skyline and a fresh attitude. With its beaches and theme parks it’s still one of the most family-friendly destinations in the United States, but the nearly nightly bacchanalia in the Gaslamp Quarter leaves no doubt this is not your father’s San Diego.

THINGS TO DO San Diego’s shining jewel is , a 1,100- acre oasis in the heart of the city. Featuring meticulously maintained gardens, hiking trails, and recreational opportunities, it’s also the nation’s largest urban cultural park, the setting for 15 museums. And if that’s not enough, the park is where you’ll also find the world famous . The city’s rollicking downtown Gaslamp Quarter, highlighted by its dazzling Victorian architecture, is where both locals and visitors go for shopping, dining, and nightclubbing. ACTIVE PURSUITS With weather that is almost always pleasant, San Diego is a year-round beach town (though water temperatures can be chilly in winter). With some 70 miles of coastline, there’s most likely a beach that’s just right for you. Looking for a nonstop party? Join the parade along the Mission Beach and Pacific Beach boardwalk. Family in tow? Coronado is just the place. Trying surfing for the first time? La Jolla Shores is forgiving. Au naturel sunbathing? Head to Black’s Beach. RESTAURANTS AND DINING The locavore movement is in high gear here, with menus featuring generous portions of San Diego–sourced products, from seafood and beef to fruits and vegetables. Mexican food is a high priority, too, with the humble fish taco—an immigrant from Baja California—solidlyCOPYRIGHTED entrenched as the city’s favorite MATERIAL fast food. On the tonier side are the sumptuous restaurants of La Jolla, including two of the area’s signature spots (both featuring stupendous views): The Marine Room and George’s at the Cove. NIGHTLIFE AND ENTERTAINMENT San Diego is a capital of American theater, having originated numerous award-winning produc- tions, some of which have ended up on Broadway. Leading the pack are the Old Globe Theatre and , both Tony Award winners for outstanding regional theater. Those who want to break a sweat

004_9781118027516-ch01.indd4_9781118027516-ch01.indd 1 77/21/11/21/11 88:46:46 PMPM on the dance floor need look no further than the city’s nightlife nerve center, the 1 Gaslamp Quarter. It offers glitzy dance and supper clubs, as well as bars (from dive to swanky) and live music venues. THE most UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES W Zipping Across the San Diego–Coronado Bay Bridge: The first time or the 50th, there’s always an adrenaline rush as you follow this engineering marvel’s dramatic curves and catch a glimpse of the panoramic view to either side. Driving west, you can easily pick out the distinctive Hotel del Coronado (p. 66) in the distance. W Escaping to Torrey Pines State Reserve: Poised on a majestic cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, this state park is set aside for the rarest pine tree in North America. The reserve has short trails that immerse hikers in a delicate and beauti- ful coastal environment. See p. 133. W Communing with Seals at the Children’s Pool: This tiny La Jolla cove was The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences Travel Unforgettable Most The originally named for the young bathers who could safely frolic behind a man-made

seawall. These days, seals and sea lions sunning themselves on the sand are the main attraction. There has been much public debate about whether the beach belongs to humans or seals, but it’s important to keep a safe distance—these are wild animals—and you’ll be rewarded with a unique wildlife experience. See p. 113. W Taking in the City’s Best Panorama: Cabrillo National Monument at the tip of Point Loma offers a breathtaking 360-degree view that takes in downtown, the harbor, military bases, Coronado, and, in the distance, Mexico and San Diego’s mountainous backcountry. It’s also a great vantage point from which to watch migrating Pacific gray whales in the winter. See p. 123. THE BEST OF SAN DIEGO OF SAN THE BEST W Renting Bikes, Skates, or Kayaks at Mission Bay: Landscaped shores, calm waters, and paved paths make Mission Bay Park an unsurpassed aquatic play- ground. Encompassing 4,200 acres and featuring 27 miles of bayfront beaches and picnic areas, there’s plenty to explore on both land and water. See p. 112. W Strolling Through the Gaslamp Quarter: You’ll be convinced you’ve stepped 1 back in time when you walk through this 16 ⁄2-block area lined with Victorian com- mercial buildings. The beautifully restored structures, in the heart of downtown, house some of the city’s most popular shops, restaurants, and nightspots. See “Walking Tour 1: The Gaslamp Quarter,” on p. 159. W Spending an Idyllic Day in Balboa Park: San Diego’s crown jewel and the largest urban cultural park in the nation. The buildings that grew out of Balboa Park’s two world’s fairs (1915–16, 1935–36) create a vision of Spanish Golden Age splendor and provide a home for 15 museums. The park also features gardens, walking trails, theaters, and recreational facilities, and is the home of the San Diego Zoo. See p. 115. W Being a Groundling: You won’t have to stand as they did in William Shake- speare’s day, but you can see the Bard’s work alfresco at the Old Globe Theatre’s Summer . The Tony Award–winning Old Globe hosts perfor- mances of Shakespeare’s work in repertory, alternating several productions at its open-air theater in Balboa Park. See p. 204.

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004_9781118027516-ch01.indd4_9781118027516-ch01.indd 2 77/21/11/21/11 8:468:46 PMPM W Floating Up, Up, and Away over North County: Sunset hot-air-balloon rides carry passengers over the golf courses and luxury homes north of the city. Do it 1

while you can—open space for landings has been fast disappearing—making bal- THE BEST OF SAN DIEGO looning something of an endangered pasttime here. See p. 145. W Witnessing the Desert’s Spring Fling: Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, Cali- fornia’s largest state park, attracts most of its visitors during the spring wildflower season, when a kaleidoscopic carpet of blooms blankets the desert floor. Others come year-round to hike more than 100 miles of trails. See p. 244. W Paddling With the Fishes: The calm surfaces and clear waters of the San Diego–La Jolla Underwater Park are the ultimate spot for kayaking, snorkeling, or scuba diving. This ecological reserve features sea caves and vibrant marine life, including California’s state fish, the electric-orange garibaldi. See p. 130. W Teeing off at Torrey Pines Golf Course: These two 18-hole championship

courses in La Jolla overlook the ocean and provide players with plenty of challenge. The Best Things to Do for Free In January, the Farmers Insurance Open (formerly known as the Buick Invita- tional) is held here. The rest of the year, these popular municipal courses are open to everybody. See p. 151. W Spending a Day at the San Diego Zoo, Zoo Safari Park, or SeaWorld: At the zoo, animals live in naturalistic habitats; at the Safari Park (formerly the Wild Animal Park), most of the 3,500 animals roam freely through enclosures on an 1,800-acre spread. SeaWorld features pirouetting dolphins, performing sea lions, and the famous Shamu killer whale show. See p. 106. W Making a Run for the Border: What a difference a line makes. Once you cross it, you’re instantly immersed in the chaotic vibrancy of Mexico’s fourth-largest city. Just a 20-minute drive from downtown, Tijuana has a raucous tourist zone with plentiful shopping, as well as an array of cultural and culinary delights. See p. 249. W Toasting the Good Life: Just across the county line in Temecula, about 60 miles north of downtown San Diego, are more than two dozen wineries. They range from mom-and-pop operations with minimal amenities to slick commercial ventures with fancy tasting rooms, retail boutiques, and restaurants. See p. 236. W Buying Some Peanuts and Cracker Jack: San Diego’s National League base- ball team, the Padres, plays at PETCO Park, a state-of-the-art ballpark that opened in 2004. Incorporating seven buildings that date as far back as 1909, PETCO’s clever design and downtown location have made it a fan favorite. See p. 156. W Quaffing some local beer: Thanks to its more than 30 breweries, San Diego has been named America’s number one beer city by Men’s Journal. San Diego’s king of beers is Stone Brewery, which operates a sensational bistro and beer garden that will leave even teetotalers impressed. See p. 211. W Getting in Touch With Your Pioneer Spirit: The mountain hamlet of Julian was founded as a gold-mining town in the 1860s, but it eventually gained fame for a different kind of mother lode: apples. Today, this rustic community has a dis- tinctly Victorian, Old West charm, redolent of hot apple pies. See p. 238. THE best THINGS TO DO FOR FREE W : It’s a small collection, and the museum’s modern archi- tecture is distinctly out of place in Balboa Park, but the always-free Timken

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004_9781118027516-ch01.indd4_9781118027516-ch01.indd 3 77/21/11/21/11 88:46:46 PMPM 1 THE best OF SAN DIEGO ONLINE

W www.sandiego.org is maintained special events, shopping, and by the San Diego Convention & dining for San Diego, Orange Visitors Bureau and includes up- County, and Los Angeles. You to-date weather data, a calendar can also make hotel reservations of events, and a hotel booking through the site. engine. W www.voiceofsandiego.org is an W www.sandiegoartandsol.com is excellent online news source that the link for cultural tourism. offers information on what’s You’ll find a list of art shows and happening in the city politically music events, plus intriguing and culturally. touring itineraries that delve into W www.sezio.org is a hip spot the city’s culture. where you can check in with the The Best Things to Do for Free Do for to Things Best The

W www.sandiegomagazine.com is local art and music scene and

the online site for San Diego learn about the latest openings Magazine, offering feature stories and shows. and dining and events listings. W www.sdartstix.com is run by the W www.sdreader.com, the site of San Diego Performing Arts the free weekly San Diego League. It’s where you can pur- Reader, is a great resource for chase discounted tickets to the- club and show listings. It has ater, music, and dance printable coupons for discount performances. dining and other services, plus W www.sandiego.com is another opinionated arts, eats, and enter- great source for San Diego news,

THE BEST OF SAN DIEGO OF SAN THE BEST tainment critiques. reviews, blogs, and more—includ- W www.signonsandiego.com is the ing contests and job listings. San Diego Union–Tribune site, W www.travelzoo.com and www. offering headline news, plus yipit.com are aggregators that reviews and information on res- compile discounts in cities taurants, music, movies, perform- around the country, including ing arts, museums, outdoor San Diego; you’ll find deals on recreation, beaches, and sports. everything from massages to W www.wheresd.com provides hot-air balloon rides. information on arts, culture,

(& 619/239-5548) houses 600 years of art history. Masterpieces by Rembrandt and Rubens, as well as works by such seminal American painters as Eastman Johnson and John Singleton Copley, are among the holdings. See p. 122. W Organ Pavilion Concerts: Organ recitals have been staged at the (& 619/702-8138) in Balboa Park almost without interruption since 1915. With 4,518 pipes, this is one of the world’s largest outdoor organs. Free concerts are presented every Sunday at 2pm. See p. 122. W Chicano Park Murals: More than 70 works of art grace the support structure of the Coronado Bridge in Barrio Logan’s Chicano Park, National Avenue at Crosby Street (& 619/563-4661). The images celebrate and honor Latino cul- ture, and are considered the largest and most important collection of outdoor murals in the country. See p. 135.

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004_9781118027516-ch01.indd4_9781118027516-ch01.indd 4 77/21/11/21/11 8:468:46 PMPM W Self-Realization Fellowship Hermitage and Meditation Gardens: This retreat in Encinitas, 215 W. K St. (& 760/753-2888), with its distinctive lotus- 1

shaped towers, was built by a yogi in 1937. Its cliffside meditation gardens over- THE BEST OF SAN DIEGO look the Pacific and offer incredible vistas. Visitors are welcome free of charge, and no one will give you a spiritual sales pitch. See p. 225. W Mission Beach/Pacific Beach Boardwalk: A stroll along this beachside path- way provides lovely ocean views, but you may not even notice as you watch the nearly nonstop parade of beach denizens that passes by. See p. 113. W Old Town State Historic Park: This free park north of downtown (& 619/220- 5422) re-creates life in early San Diego with costumed docents and museum exhibits in some of the town’s original adobe structures. See p. 128. W Hotel del Coronado: San Diego’s most iconic structure, 1500 Orange Ave. (& 619/435-6611), this fanciful Victorian resort is a National Historic Land-

mark. Take a self-guided tour through this grande dame, which also fronts one of The Best Things to Do for Free the area’s best beaches. See p. 133. W U.S. Olympic Training Center: You can take a free self-guided tour around this facility in Chula Vista, 2800 Olympic Parkway (& 619/656-1500), one of three Olympic training centers in the United States. Guided tours are also available free of charge on Saturdays. See p. 136.

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