Qinghai

Journey to the Stone Mountain

A Greentours Tour Report

25th June – 11th July 2012

Led by Chris Gardner & Başak Gardner

Day 1 25th June Departure

We departed various European airports, Turkey and New Zealand.

Day 2 26th June China - Chengdu

Everyone and everything arrived at our hotel in the Tibetan quarter of Chengdu in time for a tasty dinner. Some had arrived in enough time to explore the nearby streets and sample the bustle of Chinese city life.

Day 3 27th June Wolong

Our last western breakfast for a while and then we set off through the confusing Chengdu streets choc-a-bloc with cars, scooters, bikes and buses. It did look like we’d escaped quite easily until it transpired we were on the wrong road. Fortunately not that wrong and a quick cross country detour via an extensive area of tree nurseries put us back on track and then climbing into the lush, green foothills although the road which passes alongside the thundering river was as rough in parts and still being put back together after the devastating earthquake of a few years ago. Nearer to our destination large bushes of Rosa filipes could be seen in the shrubberies and White-capped Water Redstart on a mid-stream boulder.

A delicious lunch was followed by a foray into the incredible greenness first to a small gorge where we found many of the delicate blue Corydalis flexuosa, the peculiar hanging petals of Saxifraga rufescens, deep pink Geranium pylzowianum, a few flowers still on Deutzia longifolia, foamy masses of Rodgersia aesculifolia and then Joan spotted the towering stem of a Cardiocrinum giganteum ssp yunnanense on the slope above still with three or four good white Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1

flowers enriched with crimson stripes. Two louseworts followed, dwarf pink Pedicularis macrosiphon and tall yellow Pedicularis dunniana, the lovely deep pink Gentiana rubicunda and there were the hanging seedpods of Pterocarya hupehensis. Perhaps the most peculiar thing we saw though was a huge Himalayan Griffon Vulture sitting on the opposite bank, which barely raised its head to look at us let alone fly away. It was an amazing view of this large bird, but I suspect there was something wrong for it to behave in this nonchalant way.

We drove on but not that far when we came across a simply superb colony of Cardiocrinum with maybe three dozen magnificent stems holding aloft many sweetly-scented trumpets. And these we could get right up to. Some of us climbed up to a particularly amazing stand but everyone got close enough to breathe in the heady perfume. On the ground were the stems of Pedicularis rex with whorls of pinnate leaves from which emerged pink flowers. Its showier cousin Pedicularis davidii was across the road with bicoloured white and pink flowers each with a twisted beak.

Further up the road past bushes of pink Rosa sweginzowii we took a walk into the woods where we found Paris polyphylla, pretty white Maianthemum szechuanicum, a few purple Iris chrysographes, a couple of good spikes of Calanthe tricarinata as well as the delicate Oreorchis patens, the final flowers of Androsace henryi and just as we were about the leave we found a big plant of Semiaquilegia ecalcarata on a boulder as Elliot’s Laughingthrushes whooped and whistled from the dense shrubberies.

Day 4 28th June Balang Shan

We retraced part of the route form yesterday but then began to climb much higher into the flower-rich slopes of Balang Shan stopping at around 3650 metres for a stunning slope clothed in golden-yellow marsh marigolds, soft pink of Primula involucrata and big flat-faced purple Omphalogramma vinciflora. Among these were so many new plants that not only the altitude had our heads in a spin. To begin with there were many deep-purple Cypripedium tibeticum, the tall spikes of Veratrum macrophyllum just opening, Aster soulei, deep pink Pedicularis davidii var pentadon, the bizarre stemless thistle Dolomiaea soulei, yellow Corydalis pseudocristata, creamy egg-like Lilium lophophorum and lilac Iris goniocarpa. Scattered about elsewhere were purple- spotted white Galearis wardii, a tiny pink Galearis spathulata and the slender stems of Fritillaria sichuanica in various shades from green to dark brown and mingled among all of this were so many tiny Anemone obtusiloba. It was difficult to leave but we had to push on to the pass another 900 metres higher. As we gained height more and more poppyworts appeared with hundreds of Meconopsis integrifolia and punicea, but for now we ignored them. Reaching the top we got out and immediately a stunning velvety-blue Grandala appeared on the turf. In the nearby screes and turf was electric blue Corydalis curviflora, Trollius yunnanensis and tiny pink

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2

Cardamine pulchella as well as the fine purple-blue of Primula melanops. Before we all reconvened Alpine Accentors and Brandt’s Mountain Finch were seen.

Heads were swimming a bit by now so we descended a bit and stopped (alas in the rain) for a superb slope with many Meconopsis punicea and integrifolia. It was time to descend a lot further and we carried on down until we reached a colony of deep pink Paeonia veitchii which was also a convenient spot for lunch. A Hodgson’s Redstart was feeding from a perch and there were a few Rufous-vented Tits around. Only a few hundred metres further down and another flowery slope produced some fine Veratrum macrophyllum and the first nigrum in flower as well as stands of pale yellow Primula sikkimensis and tucked away in the shade were some lovely Primula polyneura quite the largest I’ve ever seen. Olive-backed Pipits were calling at length from some bushes and a male Common Rosefinch showed for a brief while. There was time for one last stop to look at the many bushes of pink flowered Rosa moyesii (?) that lined the road in places.

Day 5 29th June To Huanglong

It was a lengthy drive today to get us into northern Sichuan and close to many new areas. We rumbled down from Wolong stopping to photograph Rosa filipes which was tumbling over the shrubs and banks. There followed three delays because the power station had released a lot of water and the river level had come up, but the first one for ten minutes allowed us to see a lovely Silver-washed Fritillary and a Helen, the second we chose to ignore when all the other drivers went through and then at the third we waited a while until some trucks drove through and it was obvious we could too. We were starting to see many white Lilium regale in fact many thousands of them with some impressive populations spread across the slopes and cliffs. We reached Miaoxian for lunch and not far beyond this we saw a Blue Rock Thrush on the overhead wires close to where we stopped for a decent colony of the lily. There were quite a few scattered about and one prize clump of half a dozen stems sprouting from a big boulder. Vinous-throated Parrotbills were feeding in the shrubbery of Artemisia, Caryopteris tanguticum and Ceratostigma minor as well as a pair of nesting Plain Prinias. There was a second stop for the lilies and some Incarvillea arguta alongside bushes of Campylotropis polyantha. From here we began to climb and said farewell to the lilies and traded these for big displays of Pedicularis cranulolopha and torta that coloured the fields and roadsides along with many bushes of a small flowered pink rose. The louseworts were also common around the hotel, which itself was a step up from Wolong but not without its quirks!

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3

Day 6 30th June Huanglong

There were some fine misty-mountain views as we crossed the pass and descended to Huanglong. A cable car whisked us up the mountain through dense stands of virgin Abies fargesii and then we set out along the boardwalk walking through the beautiful lichen draped forest. The understorey was smothered in Primula palmata and Caltha palustris as well as many other new flowers and during the course of our slow walk to the blue pools we found the delicate saprophytic orchid Neottia acuminata, yellow Corydalis cytisiflora, handsome reddish- purple Corydalis quantmeyeriana, the large purplish-backed Anemone cathayensis and many lovely mauve Meconopsis quintuplinervia. An Orange-flanked Bush-Robin was perched on the boardwalk rail as we progressed. There were also a few Meconopsis punicea and further up we found the plum coloured hybrid between these two species Meconopsis x cookei. Rhodiola dumulosa and Cardamine macrophylla were very common as we neared the topmost pale blue pools which were in fact better appreciated from the next higher vantage. An Elliot’s Laughingthrush showed well on the boardwalk and there was a male Slaty-backed Flycatcher in the riverside shrubs.

It was downhill all the way from here and as we descended we passed another series of blue pools held behind curling walls of beige travertine with the forest behind and then tracts of travertine slope and waterfalls. A cute little Pika was contentedly nibbling on vegetation oblivious to peering people and not much further on a stripey squirrel was equally nonchalant. Florally things really picked up once we dropped down to around 3300 metres where the first pink Cypripedium tibeticum appeared. Its tiny cousin Cypripedium bardolfianum was next although difficult to photograph as the flowers were so low down. Further still and Cypripedium flavum appeared invariably alongside pale yellow Phaius delavayi, although in one spot there were all three slipper orchids, Ponerorchis chusua and the tiny golden Oreorchis nana. The displays of slipper and other orchids and the setting among islands in the flowing waters were superb with some wonderful groups of Cypripedium flavum and Cypripedium tibeticum.

We had a very good lunch afterwards but all being a bit soggy we decided to return to the hotel without stopping anymore

Day 7 1st July Huanglong Pass and to Juizhaigou

The weather was much better this morning with some blue sky and sunshine and we spent half an hour just looking at the selection of plants immediately around the hotel. There were at least seven species of Pedicularis on show and although a couple eluded identification the showiest we knew with pale and egg-yolk yellow Pedicularis cranolopha, tall spikes of yellow Pedicularis torta with a purple beak, Pedicularis semitorta with a yellow beak, white Pedicularis kansuensis ssp kansuensis, bicoloured pink Pedicularis davidii and Pedicularis szetchuanicus ssp szetchuanicus.

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 4

There were many other plants including a couple of fine Cirsium species, various umbellifers and close to the hotel a rambling plant of Clematis tibetica. With better weather prospects we drove up to the pass although this was still swathed in thick mists so we went a little way down the other side and stopped in an area of turf and Rhododendron przewalskii scrub. There were many new plants within yards of the road with the spidery darkest red Primula tangutica, dwarf Caltha scaposa, Trollius farreri, white Androsace brachystegia, electric blue Corydalis pachycentra, slender yellow Corydalis atuntsuensis, broad headed pink Pedicularis chenocephala with flowers too big for the diminutive plants and the nodding red of Meconopsis punicea. On one grassy slope was a colony of pink Pedicularis angularis and not so far away were deep purple Meconopsis henrici and on another slope Fritillaria unibracteata, various potentillas, asters and the pretty yellow lousewort Pedicularis lasiophrys. Rosy Pipits, Rufous-breasted Accentors and Alpine Accentors provided some bird action.

The pass was still quite misty but this was thinning all the time and where we stopped we found four species of poppywort with red Meconopsis punicea, yellow integrifolia (there were some particularly enormous specimens of this species), purple henrici and spiny blue racemosa the first three all mixed together on the slopes. Also in the short turf were some real treasures with the delicate and lovely red flowered Saxifraga lumpuensis along with dark centred Saxifraga melanocentra, a few of the large lipped little orchid Ponerorchis crenulata, pink Primula minor, bushes of sweet-scented Daphne retusa, intricately lined pink Pedicularis verticillata and yellow spikes of Astragalus yunnanensis.

Lunch was another delicious array of Sichuan dishes and then we set off north but didn’t get far at all as a stony bank held some fine bushes of Rosa willmottiana. Below this were also billowing masses of Stellaria delavayi. It looked a bit cloudy ahead and the rain started as we began our descent towards Juizhaiguo but this didn’t stop us exploring an area of fir forest where we found the pretty orange Saxifraga przewalskii and Primula alsophila in the woods and Corydalis pseudohamata in the stream. There was one final stop for the pale pink form of Paeonia veitchii as well as Ajuga ovalifolia and tiny Lancea tibetica.

Day 8 2nd July Juizhaigou

The tourist honeypot that is modern day Juizhaigou must be a far flung memory for those that came a decade or more ago. Hotels line the main street and thousands flock to the park every day, including today us. Mass tourism Chinese style should be experienced at least once and so we threw ourselves into the turmoil, boarding our green bus and driving into the park along a forested valley and past the first blue pools and tufa dams. The first location was ridiculously packed and although the falls were probably beautiful they were seen among a heaving throng of posturing, pushing and excited locals. Thankfully our next location was a complete contrast with few people and some flowers to look at with Geranium platyanthum and pale lilac Aconitum Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 5

sinomontanum. There was also a solitary group of Monotropa hypopitys but we were to see many more of these. The waterfall was impressive a seventy metre curtain of many small cascades tumbling over a wall of tufa. We had an early lunch and then set off along the boardwalk through the woodland enjoying an infinitely more peaceful experience than earlier with rivers rushing through the flaking red bark of Betula utilis var prattii and past the broad leaves of Rodgersia aesculifolia and bushes of white Deutzia setchuanicus and pink roses. Various woodland flowers appeared with a delicate Habenaria sp, Moneses uniflora and shrubs of Campylotropis macrocarpa. Birdlife was also active and during the course of the walk my group saw a handsome Indian Blue Robin, Fujian Niltava and Yellow-bellied Tit as well as the ever present (near water) Plumbeous Water Redstarts. Stripey and plain brown squirrels were also seen now and then. Reaching a clearer area the taller denser vegetation hid the trailing stems of Codonopsis sp and the splendid tall spikes of orange and bronze Epipactis mairei.

The next set of falls were the most impressive we’d seen with many cascades running over the encrusting tufa that had in places encased old roots from the many trees that grew directly on the rock. A White Wagtail perched and preened at length between two rushing torrents. There were many angles to view the roaring falls and we all climbed up for a higher vantage and then over the top of the falls back to the road. We stopped by a lake with fine reflections and took a short stroll along its edge. Two White-capped Water Redstarts sped across the waters within which were thousands of fish. A fine plant of Aconitum sinomontanum rounded off the plants for the day before we headed back on the bus. My conclusion for this place is that it is a place of great beauty and truly remarkable in its extent but the sheer weight of tourist numbers detracts too much from the experience and regrettably we shall not be including it in any future itinerary.

Day 9 3rd July Quiji Pass

An inconsiderate landslide meant we had a lengthy detour to get to the Quiji Pass first driving straight back to Chuanghusi and then north towards the grasslands. Our first flower stop was for a grassy slope with deep purple Iris farreri. Here we also saw Black-throated Parrotbill.

We had to press on and drove across the vast grasslands past herds of black or black-and-white yaks that were grazing among stands of impressive spidery Cremanthodium brunneopilosum. After a while we turned off the main road and descended into a forest valley and along increasingly flowery roadsides stopping by one for lunch. There were many flowers around with Salvia prattii, the choice lousewort Pedicularis cristellata, Aconitum gynandrum, the fluffy white flowers of Thalictrum przewalskii, Cirsium fargesii a big spiny thistle, a slender Dracocephalum sp and what is probably Rosa sweginzowii. Moving on up to the pass we arrived in time to spend an hour among many Meconopsis quintuplinervia, punicea and henrici (which here are much paler than on Huanglong) as well as pink Braya forrestii, yellow Corydalis cristata Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 6

and blue curviflora. Yellowish Fritillaria przewalskii were scattered about among the short turf with clumps of Androsace brachystegia and cushions of Arenaria kansuensis. The cloud suddenly swept in near the end of our session here as we were peering into the sacks carried down by some Tibetans, which contained thousands of Meconopsis henrici and racemosa flowers! No wonder we couldn’t find the latter. Apparently they are used to treat kidney and liver problems. Driving back down we just about kept ahead of the rain long enough to photograph a couple of vivid orange Lilium pumilum.

The remainder of the drive was in rain but we didn’t have time to stop anyway, arriving into the muddy streets of Langmusi to a pleasant hotel and an even more pleasant restaurant that served decent pizza and yak steaks.

Day 10 4th July To Juizhi

A long but rewarding day began with a good breakfast of bacon and egg sandwiches and strong Colombian coffee. We drove first over the pass above the town stopping in an area of limestone outcrops. On these and in the surrounding flowery turf were many plants including the familiar Frog Orchid, but more exotic orchid species were the pink orchid Galearis roborowskii and delicate yellowish-green Herminium ophioglossoides. On the rocks was slender leaved purple flowered Saussurea graminea and Rhodiola discolor whilst among the scrub were various colour forms of Fritillaria unibracteata and przewalskii (although I must confess the extreme similarity of these two taxa with the main difference being colour raises an eyebrow). The turf held a few pink trumpets of Incarvillea compacta, a slender blue Corydalis sp and over the top of the main crag was a good population of the purplish Allium cyanophorum and many creamy pyramids of Ajuga lupulina. At one point a Himalayan Griffon Vulture swept across the slope just below us and only twenty metres away giving us a stunning view. A pair of Golden Eagles was seen next soaring majestically across the slopes.

Carrying on we turned off and drove along (a smoother piece of road) to a marshy flat where there was a pair of elegant Black-necked Cranes and two Ruddy Shelduck. We had excellent telescope views of the cranes. We continued on to Maqu stopping to look at Hume’s Groundpeckers and photogenic yaks. A fine lunch was followed by a lengthy drive across the grassland landscape with range upon range of green hills punctuating the tracts of green, but these tracts of green were actually packed with flowers and we stopped for an hour at a pass and were immersed in a wonderful meadow of countless flowers. There were Anemone trulliifolia, masses of pink Nardostachys grandiflora, golden Astragalus yunnanensis complimenting purple Hedysarum sikkimensis and mauve Aster soulei, a creamy Pedicularis sp and low shrubs of Caragana jubata smothered in pink flowers. In the shorter turf at the top of the slope were many fantastic Lamiophlomis rotata and a few Soroseris hookeri.

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 7

From here we still had a way to go (thanks to a broken bridge) but the landscape was wonderful with great stands of Cremanthodium brunneopilosum, Himalayan Marmots galloping about, many Cuckoos and soft light on the hills. We did stop for a view of the Yellow River and then a big rainbow before rolling into Juizhi.

Day 11 5th July Stone Mountain – Golog Shan

The rain from yesterday had cleared the air and we began the day with cloudless blue sky and crystal clear views of the rugged ramparts of Stone Mountain. The peaks looked close enough to touch but in reality we had to walk three miles to reach the lake beneath the main peak, crossing over herb rich grassland. We walked through a herd of yaks to some small pools where there were reflections of the mountains and as we photographed the scene a pair of Black-necked Cranes flew past. Tibetan Larks, White-winged Redstart and Tibetan Snowfinches were also about and the turf was peppered with countless Anemone trulliifolia and Trollius farreri. Mingled among these was the long-tubed pink lousewort Pedicularis przewalskii and as we progressed more and more of the deep blue Anemone demissa var villosissima appeared along with various poppyworts with Meconopsis punicea, quintuplinervia, henrici and integrifolia as well as one pinkish-purple x cookei. Close to this was a family of Robin Accentors who were joined by Rosy Pipits and Shorelarks watching us from the huge granite boulders.

We crossed the stream from the lake and stopped for a break and as we did a stunning Grandala arrived and fed only twenty metres away. Two Lammergeiers soared overhead not long after. Traversing a boggy stretch with a scattering of Primula woodwardii and plentiful Pedicularis oederi we arrived at the base of some low cliffs which on closer inspection were stuffed full of lilac Paraquilegia anemonoides along with the odd Primula limbata. Below this were sumptuous goblets of purple Meconopsis lancifolia with big bosses of white stamens. The group divided after lunch with some returning the same way and seeing White-tailed Rubythroat and the rest completing a circuit of the lake where we saw a single Cremanthodium decaisnei, Rheum tangutica in the heavy scree and a fine population of Primula limbata under a huge boulder. We actually all reunited near the ‘yak ponds’ and completed the last kilometre across the flowery grasslands, meeting up with Sue who had walked back earlier and seen the only Gentiana algida of the day. After a refreshing cuppa we drove back in the sunshine which had more or less been with us all day.

Day 12 6th July To Dawu

Although our day started well with some fine stands of Primula gemmifera and lots of red- headed black Fritillary caterpillars, there was an unfortunate incident at our second stop that resulted in a serious injury (a nasty dog bite) to one of the group and we spent the next six Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 8

hours in Juizhi hospital. Thankfully the necessary procedures went well. From here we had to drive with only brief leg-stretch stops all the way to Dawu, arriving very late. Below is the information from my previous visit to the area we covered;

Light drizzle in the morning didn't stop us enjoying a fine colony of Iris sichuanensis that was really quite abundant for the first few miles and following close behind this was a lovely population of Clematis tangutica/tibetana tumbling over low rocky cliffs and rambling along the stony roadside next to the Yellow River. More big stands of Rheum tangutica also appeared before we started to climb reaching a low pass (a mere 4300m). Two prominent rocks rose up to our right and I crossed the turf to reach them finding the tiny Primula rhodocroa (?) in wet banks by a stream, lots of Meconopsis punicea, an unknown Cremanthodium sp and then as marmots gave their shrill alarm call from the rock (and boy do they smell too) I saw creamy Primula chionantha subspecies chionantha and fine cushions of Androsace selago plastered with white flowers. There was also the lovely red-purple Anemone imbricata on the rocks. A couple of Choughs wheeled around as I explored the rock finding a few out of reach Meconopsis racemosa and a superb vertical colony of Primula chionantha. Black Redstarts became increasingly aggitated at my presence.

Descending slightly to the grassland we passed through staggering displays of Meconopsis integrifolia with hundreds of thousands across the pasture some with herds of yaks munching away among them, obviously not finding yellow poppyworts to their taste.

We reached Dawu by early afternoon and tracked down a hotel and then set about getting information for tomorrow’s trip into Anyemaqen Shan.

Day 13 7th July Dawu

Chinese bureaucracy struck today and an unexpected and unnecessary delay meant we couldn’t undertake our planned trip to Anyemaqen Shan. The whole incident was smoothed over by late morning but by then it was too late so instead, after lunch, we went and looked at some of the temples of the new monastery complex where Rufous-naped Snowfinches hopped about alongside Hume’s Groundpeckers. It began to rain and this got heavier making our intended trip to the pass a soggy one. We did stop for some good Incarvillea compacta and then just below the pass a colony of the beautiful Corydalis trachycarpa with some forms exhibiting striking colours from cream to reddish-purple.

One useful by-product of the interfering bureaucrats was new information about a through road past Anyemaqen Shan as a new bridge had been built, so we now planned to re-route our journey north tomorrow to visit this outstanding area.

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 9

Day 14 8th July Anyemaqen Shan

An overcast sky didn’t dampen spirits especially as we’d already enjoyed a tasty ‘doughnut’ and mo-mo (and rice porridge) breakfast. The road to Anyemaqen Shan is a long bumpy one of a hundred kilometres but the scenery grew more interesting as we progressed passing little hamlets and yak farmer encampment. Mammals were an early highlight with Brown Hare, Red Fox(?), marmot and the ever scurrying pikas, then we caught sight of Kessler’s Thrush, Black Redstart and rosefinches. Florally things got going with a short stretch of cliffs with Paraquilegia anemonoides, pink Corydalis lophophorum and pale yellow Primula flava nestled on wet rock shelves. Another area had abundant tumbling masses of Clematis tangutica subsp obtusiuscula and a small blue gentian, before we climbed up to a remarkable area of tundra composed largely of Androsace mariae and prostrate mats of Androsace tangulashanicus smothered in white flowers. Among these was an amazing community of plants with Adonis coerulea, the red- runners and lilac flowers of Lagotis brachystachya, the odd yellow Iris potaninii and rosettes of rough-leaved blue Microula tibetica.

Tearing ourselves away from this our next stop was not far away – a hillside of many thousands of Incarvillea compacta with mounds of lilac-pink Oxytropis falcata and stands of Meconopsis integrifolia. A Saker flew across as we admired all of this on the lookout for unwary pikas. It was just a few kilometres to the pass and what a place that was. A large glacier snaked down from the partially obscured peak of Anyemaqen, but some ridges were now clearing and blue sky breaking through and the blue enhanced the fine Meconopsis horridula. In the moraine was the diminutive Desideria baoigoinensis, the purple-flowered rosettes of Saussurea wellbyi and woolly pillars of shaggy Saussurea medusa. Elsewhere were deep blue Corydalis melanochlora, yellow dasyptera and on the scree paler yellow, purplish leaved scaberula the latter near to the attractive Cremanthodium humile also with purplish leaves. It was and is an amazing place but we had to leave although we didn’t get far as a plant of Primula chionantha sinoplantaginea stopped us.

The landscape on the far side of the pass was drier and clearer with views back along the valley and huge gravel deposits. A picturesque monastery and then some superb bushes of bright yellow Corydalis stricta followed before we lucked out on four Tibetan Gazelles crossing in front of us and then stopping to watch us from a ridge. There was a still a long way to go and we eventually made the main road, stopping to have dinner on the way before reaching the dubious charms of Xinghai.

Day 15 9th July To Qinghai Hu

Having survived the night in Xinghai we drove out across the steppe and not that far out of town stopped for an interesting steppe community with plenty of Thermopsis lanceolatum,

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 10

slender spikes of scented Herminium monorchis, the peculiar green spikes of Morina kokororica encrusted with many brown beetles and yellow Pedicularis alashanicus. Oriental Skylarks filled the air with a constant and delightful song. The landscape beyond was fairly monotonous with semi-bare steppe but a bush-stop among this still found Convolvulus ammannii, Allium przewalskianum and a Peganum sp. Turning off the main road we had a coffee break in a pleasant avenue of poplars either side of which were mustard fields bisected by colourful rows of Pedicularis kansuensis and alashanicus as well as the ‘fluffy’ white heads of Thalictrum petaloideum and along the roadside were many bushes of cerise Hedysarum multijugum.

From here we climbed up to a plateau and crossed over another now familiar tract of grassland until suddenly we arrived at a dramatic viewpoint of Qinghai Hu, a vast turquoise pool framed between grey clouds and dark hills. Lunch was taken (slowly) near the lake. Afterwards we drove onto an area of wet lakeside where there were abundant Gentiana heleonastes, Pedicularis cheilanthes and bright pink Primula nutans. Along the lakeshore were Ruddy Shelduck, Redshank, Hill Pigeons and two Bar-headed Geese, but more of the latter would follow tomorrow.

Day 16 10th July Bird Island and to Xining

A short drive from our hotel is Niao Diao or Bird Island although since I didn’t have time to actually tour the site last year there was some confusion as to what went on there. However, everything worked out well on a fine sunny day with constant lark song (both Oriental Sky and Mongolian) accompanying us. The first stop was for an observatory of Bar-headed Geese which involved a long walk through a big exhibition of photos from the lake and surrounding area, many of them very good indeed and a somewhat questionable exhibit of stuffed birds and mammals including a Himalayan Griffon which somehow was killing a fox – a feat which is completely impossible in real life! The stuffed Lammergeier did give a vivid idea of just how massive this bird is though. Back to living species and there was a superb view of the geese which were easily photographed through the observatory windows.

Back in our green golf cart we drove to the dock thinking we were going to an island – and we were – it chugged four hundred metres around the coast and stopped by a big stack crammed with Cormorants. After ten minutes here it then roared off – seemingly towards a distant island only to turn in a big loop back to the dock. For many landlocked Chinese this would have been a treat but for us an oddity. Back on dry land there were some good plants of Clematis tangutica before we climbed up to the land observation platform of the cormorant colony that gave closer views. Brown-hooded Gulls swept past occasionally and as we walked down via various curious signs to keep of the grass (the favourite was “grass is sleeping, pleased don’t bother”) there were a few Twite.

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 11

We returned to the hotel past big swathes of pink Pedicularis kansuensis, collected our bags and had lunch. There was a lengthy drive now to Xining but after an hour we stopped for a while to photograph an amazing six acre meadow of, we estimated, twenty million Primula nutans that stretched away as a sea of pink, a superb finale to a very flowery trip.

Arriving at Xining airport, delays out of Beijing meant some hasty rebooking of onward flights for some and a long night for all, but we did all arrive in time to catch these and other flights home to the UK, New Zealand and Turkey.

Day 17 11th July home

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 12

Systematic List Number 1 Flora

The following represents the main flowers seen during the two reconnaissance visits to western Sichuan. However, since the two visits were three to four weeks apart a number of species seen on the earlier visit (late May to early June) may not be represented during the tour.

PTERIDOPHYTES Many other ferns were seen but not identified Adiantaceae Adiantum davidii Delicate maidenhair at Wolong, Huanglong

Asepleniaceae Lepisorus albertii Slender un-divided fronds, rocks, e.g. Langmusi

GYMNOSPERMS Several other conifers seen but no identified Pinaceae Pinus tabuleoformis Juizhaiguo Juniperus tibeticus Widespread in upper forests, e.g. Huanglong Abies georgica Balang Shan Abies fargesii Probably this species at Huanglong

Taxaceae Cephalotaxus sinensis Juizhaiguo

ANGIOSPERMS DICOTYLEDONS Actinidiaceae Actinidia kolomikta Handsome scrambling shrub with white or pink tipped green leaves, Wolong

Apiaceae Pleurospermum spp Two or three species of this distinctive plants seen in high mountains Tetrataenium nepalense Large white umbels and broad-lobed pinnate leaves reminiscent of Heracleum. Widespread

Asteraceae Asters covered huge areas of the grasslands, but i was unable to formally identify the species concerned Anaphalis nepalensis Whitish, everlasting flowers, Stone Mountain Aster farreri Distinctly clump forming species, Quiji Pass Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 13

Aster himalaicus [Fine wide flowered species with large mauve rayed flowers on short stems. Not confirmed for 2012] Aster soulei A lovely variable mauve daisy, widespread, possibly the common grassland species Cirsium fargesii Large spiny thistle, widespread in Sichuan Cremanthodium campanulatum Reddish nodding heads, occasional in alpine turf at Anyemaqen Cremanthodium decaisnei Pendant heads of long yellow-rayed flowers, Stone Mountain Cremanthodium sp Several other species were seen but not identified. Handsome one at Anyemaqen with spear-shaped leaves and wide open flowers Cremantodium brunneopilosum Remarkable tall long petalled species, common around Longriba. Cremantodium humile Yellow daisy flowers and reddish-bronze crenulated leaves, common at Anyemaqen in scree Dolomeia soulei Curious stemless thistle Erigeron multiradiatus Balang Shan Leontopodium calocephalum Common dwarf species in alpine turf Leontopodium haplophylloides Scattered in meadows, long spidery rays Leontopodium soulei Small with short broad rays Ligularia cymbrifera. A fine large glaucous-leaved species, widespread corymbose infl. Ligularia nelumbifolium Common in marshy areas, very large orbicular leaves Ligularia przewalskii Tall spicate species with deeply serrate leaves Pyrethrum tatsiensense Common orange daisy on grasslands Saussurea medusa Taller woolly ‘towers’ of leaves with flowers nearly open. Anyemaqen Saussurea spp Several other species seen, one with large inflated calyces, another like a mini-medusa. Saussurea wellbyi Lovely purplish flowered stars in moraine at Anyemaqen Soroseris hookeri Broad domes of yellow flowers on stems of variable height. Stone Mountain

Berberidaceae Berberis potaninii 3-9 pointed leaves, tight bunches of yellow flowers, by blue lake at Juizhaiguo Berberis spp. Several species seen but not identified Berberis stiebritziana Balang Shan Podophyllum hexandrum Scattered in woodland edge, leaves only

Betulaceae Betula albosinensis Some fine trunks at Juizhaiguo Betula utilis Widespread in forested areas Betula utilis var. prattii Wonderful peeling reddish bark akin to Prunus serrula, Juizhaiguo

Bignoniaceae Incarvillea arguta Very common along dry roadsides, bushy, small pinnate leaves

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 14

Incarvillea compacta Huanglong, roadsides and very common on Anyemaqen with slopes on hundreds of thousands of plants

Boraginaceae Microula tibetica Flat rosettes with blue borage flowers, Anyemaqen Shan Onosma maaikangense Blue flowered borage Sinoglossum amabile Very common along roadsides Trigonotis rockii Pale blue species in turf on Stone Mountain Trigonotis tibetica Similar to rockii, also Stone Mountain

Brassicaceae Cardamine macrophylla Very common and widespread Desideria baoigoinensis Lovely species with dentate leaves and pink fading to blue flowers on moraines at Anyemaqen Dontostemon tibeticus Pretty pink-white cress with pinnate leaves in tundra on Anyemaqen Shan Draba jucunda Tight growing species with typical bright yellow flowers Pegaeophyton scaberula White cress, long linear leaves, Stone Mountain

Campanulaceae Adenophora khasiana Probably this species en route to Quiji Pass. Spikes of pale blue bells Codonopsis sp Green belled species at Juuizhaiguo

Cannabinaceae Cannabis sativa Occasional roadside weed

Caprifoliaceae Leycesteria formosa Scattered in shrubberies and roadsides. Wolong Lonicera spinosa/syringantha Possibly conspecific, dwarf prostrate shrublets in turf at Anyemaqen Lonicera spp. Various shrubby honeysuckles were seen but not identified Lonicera tangutica Slender yellow flowers in pairs, Wolong Lonicera tibetica Rather sparse pink flowers. Scattered Sambucus ebulus Common herbaceous elder, Wolong Sambucus ebulus Common herbaceous elder Viburnum erubescens Slender white flowers in short spikes, Wolong Viburnum nervosum Non-flowering, Wolong Viburnum spp. Several species seen but not identified

Caryophyllaceae Arenaria kansuensis Widespread in high areas, cushion forming. Arenaria roseiflora ‘Large’ palest pink flowered alpine on scree at Anyemaqen Shan

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 15

Silene nigrescens Anyemaqen Shan Stellaria delavayi Bushy greyish leaved with many starry white flowers, near Chuanzhusi

Convolvulaceae Convolvulus ammannii

Crassulaceae Rhodiola discolor Dwarf red flowered species, Langmusi pass Rhodiola dumulosa Widespread yellowish species, Huanglong, etc Rhodiola spp. Two or three other species were seen in the mountains, but not identified

Dipsacaceae Morina alba Scattered white flowers, Balang Shan Morina kokororica Unusual green bracted and flowered species seen in steppe near Xinghai Morina nepalense Pink, Balang Shan

Ericaceae Rhododendron augustinii [Wolong. Not 2012] Rhododendron balangense Common on Balang Shan, not flowering. Rhododendron bureavii Probably this species growing along river banks below Balang Shan Rhododendron przewalskii Common white-flowered species at Huanglong and Quiji pass Rhododendron rupicola Dwarf shrub on high mountains. Many dwarf lilac species seen, but not identified. This was probably one of them! Rhododendron trichotomum Small shrub with small white to pink tubular flowers, Huanglong

Euphorbiaceae Euphorbia helioscopa Familiar weed Euphorbia pekinensis Orangish spurge at Wolong, Balang Shan Many species of Astragalus and other genera seen but no identified Fabaceae Astragalus polycladus Round purplish flowerheads, widespread in grasslands Astragalus spp Various fine species were seen but identification is difficult Astragalus yunnanensis Yellow and white flowers with black hairs on calyx, alpine turf, some fine shows en route to Juizhi Bauhinia brachycarpa Among Lilium regale, white flowers, distinctive two part leaves Campylotropis polyantha Widespread at mid-altitudes, three lobed leaves, pink flowers Caragana jubata/versicolor Spiny highland shrubs with pink flowers, a fine species common on grassland passes Hedysarum multijugum Handsome shrub with cerise flowers, drier roadsides and banks around Qinghai Hu

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 16

Hedysarum pseudastragalus Pale pink, glaucous leaves, Quiji Pass Hedysarum sikkimensis Purple-pink spikes on grasslands, alpine turf, throughout Lathyrus pratensis Huanglong Lotus corniculatus Roadsides, widespread Melilotus officinalis Common along roads, delicate yellow Oxytropis falcata Handsome steppe species with pink-mauve flowers, fine pinnate leaves, mound forming clumps on Anyemaqen Shan Oxytropis kansuensis Creamy-yellow round heads, locally abundant, e.g. Anyemaqen Shan Oxytropis ochocephalus Similar to kansuensis but deeper yellow. Thermopsis lanceolata Common in steppe around Qinghai Hu, and Xinghai, yellow. Called as smithiana! Tibetia tongolensis Widespread little legume with purple flowers on long stems. Cream flowered form also seen Vicia nummularia Roadsides, a typical vetch

Fagaceae Quercus aquifolium Common evergreen oak on Balang Shan

Gentianaceae A confusing number of small flowered species were seen and not unidentified Gentian algida Only one seen on Stone Mountain, large trumpet flowers. Gentiana heleonastes Growing with Primula nutans at Qinghai Lake, pale blue to white with black lines. Gentiana loureirei [Somehow missed on Stone Mountain, but should be here. Pale blue trumpets] Gentiana pubigerum Common and widespread, variable little gentian growing on roadsides and alpine turf, but other species probably involved too Gentiana rubicunda Deep magenta dwarf species. Scattered. Gentianopsis barbata Cream and blue striped species near Juizhi Halenia elliptica Unusual blue flowers with pronounced spurs

Geraniaceae Geranium platyanthum Tall pink species, flat flowers, Juizhaiguo Geranium pylzowianum Common crane’s-bill with dissect leaves

Gesneriaceae Corallodiscus lanuginosus. Blue flowers and wrinkled leaves.

Hydrangeaceae Deutzia calycosa [Pink flowered species at Wolong. Not 2012] Deutzia longifolia White to pink, Wolong Deutzia glomeruliflora [Roadsides at mid-elevation in Sichuan. Not 2012]

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 17

Deutzia setcheunensis Juizhaiguo Hydrangea heteromalla Fine white lacecap, temperate forest areas Philadelphus subcanus [Scattered and widespread. The commonest Mock Orange, leaves with short adpressed hairs. Wolong. Not 2012] Philadelphus purpurascens Distinctive smaller flowers species with dark reddish purple pedicels and calyces, small flowered, leaves hairy on ribs beneath. Wolong.

Hypericaeae Hypericum forrestii Mid altitude roadsides, Wolong

Juglandaceae Pterocarya hupehensis Long catkins, large pinnate leaves, Wolong

Lamiaceae Ajuga lupulina Large bracts of reddish or cream, scattered and widespread Ajuga ovalifolia Deep purple flowers and crinkled leaves, widespread Dracocephalum calophyllum Roadside en route to Quiji Pass Dracocephalum heterophyllum White-flowered herb, common in places among steppe Lamiophlomis rotata Stemless crinkled broad leaves with purple flowers, locally common on high turf Phlomis atropurpurea Wonderful deep purple species near Huanglong Phlomis tatsienense Pale pink, Juizhaiguo Salvia maxcimowicziana Pretty mauve species near Huanglong Salvia prattii Fine blue species en route to Quiji Pass Scutellaria orthocalyx/amoena Frequent along roadsides purple-blue spikes – one of these two species

Lentibulariaceae Pinguicula alpina White flowered butterwort at Huanglong

Loganiaceae Buddleja davidii Mid-altitudes

Monotropaceae Monotopa hypopotys Curious yellowish saprophyte at Juizhaiguo

Myricaceae Myrica rosea Long racemes of pink flowers, shrub along rivers

Oleaceae Syringa yunnanensis Scattered white flowers

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 18

Onagraceae Chamaerion angustifolium Scattered

Orobanchaceae Pedicularis alashanicus Yellow with deeper yellow beak, near Qinghai and steppe near Xinghai Pedicualris angularis Pale pink with reticulate lip markings, short turf on Huanglong Pedicularis tristis Tall yellow, hairy, Langmusi pass Pedicularis cristellata Elegant, whorls of well-spaced pink flowers on slender stems, en route to Quiji Pass Pedicularis verticillata Pink with whorls of fine pinnate leaves, Chuanzhusi Pedicularis macrosiphon Small pink species seen at Wolong, marshy areas south of Dawu Pedicularis rhinanthoides ssp labellata A widespread species (ssp tibetica probably also present) in moist meadows, slopes, etc, lower lip spreading forward to encompass beak. Pink and white. Pedicularis artselaeri Deep pink, twisted beak, low growing with fine ferny leaves, Huanglong and Quiji Pass (2011) Pedicularis cranolopha Handsome two-toned yellow species around Huanglong, long tubed Pedicularis chenocephala Large deep pink flowers on wet turf, flowers disproportionate to tiny plants, Huanglong, Quiji Pass Pedicularis tricolor Striking yellow and white species with cymes of large flowers with twisted beak, grasslands and meadows Pedicularis lachnoglossa Scattered in scrub, mountain turf, elegant slender species with dark pink flowers Pedicularis siphonantha Common on the Zhedou Pass, pink and white with twisted beak and inverted black ‘v’ markings, widespread elsewhere too Pedicularis rupicola ssp rupicola var Whitish species with dark mark on galea flavescens Pedicularis szetchuanica ssp Roadsides near Huanglong, tall pink species szetchuanica Pedicularis lasiophrys Small, capitates stems with pale yellow flowers with reddish galea Huanglong Pass Pedicularis steiningeri Tall yellow flowered species with linear dentate leaves. Grasslands south of Zoige Pedicularis kansuensis White, pink and deep pink forms seen, abundant along roadsides and grasslands at Qinghai Hu. Pedicularis dunniana Very tall yellow, Wolong Pedicularis oederi Familiar yellow species with orangey-red tip to galea Pedicularis torta Spicate yellow species with purple galea and beak. Abundant en route to Quiji Pass Pedicularis davidii Bicolored pink spikes with twisted beak, Balang Shan ,etc Pedicularis davidii var pentadon Uniform deep pink variant, alpine turf

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 19

Pedicularis przewalskii Deep pink dwarf species on alpine turf Pedicularis densispica Roadsides, pink Pedicularis longiflora var tubiformis [Deep yellow with maroon markings, long tubed flowers, marshes on grasslands. Not 2012] Pedicularis cheilanthifolia White with pink tip, marshy flats along shore of Qinghai also in grassland Pedicularis semitorta Locally common e.g. Quiji Pass, all yellow, spicate with twisted beak Pedicularis oliveriana Lovely tall pink species near Dari, probably this species Pedicularis rex Whorls of leaves on tall stems with connate bracts holding smallish creamy to pink flowers. Wolong

Papaveraceae Meconopsis – the taxonomy of this genus is confused, the widespread species horridula having been split. The classification follows the Flora of China. Corydalis adunca Common in drier roadsides with orangey flowers, scarce 2012. Corydalis atuntsuensis Slender yellow species, dark lines on flower, delicate. Alpine turf at Huanglong Corydalis calycosa Dark blue, Balang Shan Corydalis chamdoensis(?) This or something similar. Pale yellow flowers with black markings but narrowish spikes. Between Juizhi and Dawu Corydalis conspersa [Possibly this species passes in wet places, similar to hamata but differences in bracts and overall ‘jizz’, very leafy and tall. Not 2012.] Corydalis cristata Similar to atuntsuensis but stouter and coarser leaves, Quiji Pass Corydalis curviflora Electric blue 5-9 leaflets, alpine turf, grasslands variable in height. Corydalis cytisiflora Slender yellow species at Huanglong Corydalis dasyptera Lovely deep yellow species on the Quiji Pass & Anyemaqen - dense inflorescence Corydalis flexuosa Dainty blue species in forest at Wolong, Sichuan, scattered elsewhere. Ferny leaves. Corydalis kokiana [Very fine tall blue species. Not 2012] Corydalis linarioides [Fine yellow with orange tips, variable narrow leaves. Not 2012] Corydalis lophophorum Dirty pink flowers, cliffs en route to Anyemaqen Shan Corydalis melanochlora Stunning species on Anyemaqen c4700m. Dense sky blue to light blue flowers with finely cut leaves sprouting from scree. Corydalis pachycentra Similar to curviflora but only 3-4 leaflets Corydalis pseudocristata Handsome yellow species on Balang Shan, pronounced ‘crest’ on flowers Corydalis pseudohamata En route to Juizhaiguo, also Stone Mountain, yellow, attractive ferny leaves, always in or near streams Corydalis quantmeyeriana Purplish-pink species at Huanglong Corydalis rheinbabeniana Yellow flowered species with strongly recurved spur. Scarce 2012 only en route to Quiji Pass Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 20

Corydalis scaberula Screes on Anyemeqen lovely pale yellow species with reddish dissect leaves with rounded lobes, on scree. A fine species Corydalis schaereri [Pretty pink species with long upright pointed spur at Wolong, not 2012] Corydalis sp 2 [A stunning blue species was seen growing on a mid-stream boulder in Wolong, Sichuan 2007. Not 2012] Corydalis stricta Fantastic shrubby species with bright yellow flowers. Dry roadside banks below Anyemaqen Shan Corydalis trachycarpa Beautiful species near Dawu, best forms had yellow and red highlights on white flowers, ferny leaves. Scree. Digranostigma leptopodium Widespread on drier roadsides at mid-altitudes Hypecoum leptocarpum Steppe near Xinghai Meconopsis henrici Beautiful large purple flower Huanglong. Like lancifolia except flowers larger and held more upright and with whitish anthers. Lovely pale-lilac forms on Quiji Pass Meconopsis horridula Fine forms of this spiny (painful spiny!) species at Anyemaqen Meconopsis integrifolia Abundant above 4000m on many passes and grasslands. Yellow flowers. Meconopsis lancifolia Purple-blue species with huge flowered forms on Stone Mountain Meconopsis punicea Perhaps the most extraordinary species seen - red with curious downward pointing petals. Common and very widespread. Meconopsis quintuplinervia Various high passes e.g. Huanglong, lovely nodding lilac bells. Meconopsis racemosa Fine blue species, scattered and not particularly common. Tall spikes very bristly leaves. Meconopsis x cookei Muddy pink-purple hybrid punicea x quintuplinervia Papaver nudicaule Yellow poppy on Quiji Pass

Parnassiaceae Parnassia delavayi White flowered, scattered in mountains

Plumbaginaceae Ceratostigma minus Blue flowered shrub near Lilium regale.

Polygonaceae Oxyria digyna Common roadside species in highlands Polygonum macrophyllum Possibly this species on Anyemaqen, disproportionately large infl, pinkish-white, Polygonum spherostachyum Short-cylindrical to globular white flowers, grasslands Polygonum viviparum Common white flowered species in alpine turf Rheum delavayi Dwarf species with red-veined leaves Rheum tangutica Huge rhubard, common along roadsides at 4000m or more between Juizhi and Dawu

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 21

Primulaceae Androsace brachystegia Quite widespread in alpine turf in N Sichuan Androsace henryi Unusual species with white drumsticks and kidney-shaped leaves Androsace mariae White drumstick species (usually pink but this population 100% white) Anyemaqen. Not to confuses with A mairei which is a different species! Androsace selago Wonderful cushions smothered in white flowers at Huanglong. Androsace spp. A number of unidentified low growing species were seen in high areas Androsace tangulashanensis Flat mats and cushions with white flowers, Anyemaqen Shan Omphalogramma vinciflora Abundant flat-faced purple flowers on Balang Shan. The species viola-grandis is regarded as a synonym by the Flora of China. Primula alsophila Delicate pink species with acer-like leaves en route to Juizhaiguo Primula amethystina Pendant purple primula in turf on Huanglong Primula chionantha sinoplantaginea One or two on Anyemaqen, large pink flowers. In wet places Primula deflexa Purple spikes at Huanglong Primula denticulata One or two on Balang Shan Primula fasciculata Dwarf pink with pronounced golden annulus, wet turf, marshes, Stone Mountain Primula flava Pretty little yellow species in rocks below Anyemaqen Primula gemmifera Dwarf forms of this on passes in N Sichuan, pink, no auricles, farinose Primula involucrata Widespread in wet flushes, pink with reflexed auricles, efarinose Primula limbata Handsome species, lilac with purple eye, Stone Mountain on or under large boulders Primula melanops Large purple blue with farina, upper reaches of Balang Shan Primula minor/stenocalyx Lilac-pink with white eye, Huanglong Pass, etc Primula optata Good species, nestled under granite boulders at Stone Mountain, pink-lilac with darker eye Primula palmata Abundant at Huanglong also near Barkam, dissect, palmate leaves, pink Primula polyneura Some fine specimens on Balang Shan, deep pink with deeply incised ovate leaves. Primula rhodocroa This or something very similar in the alpine tundra north of Dari, a tiny pink species Primula secundiflora Occasional in wet flushes usually with sikkimensis Primula sikkimensis Occasional on high passes in N Sichuan Primula tangutica Amazing spidery reddish-brown flowers, quite widespread in N Sichuan. Yellow and pink forms also seen Primula violacea [Pretty lilac species, Orchid Pass. Not 2012] Primula woodwardii Deep pink species in marshes at Stone Mountain

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 22

Pyrolaceae Moneses uniflora Single-flowered, Juizhaiguo Pyrola sororia Wolong

Ranunculaceae Aconitum gymnandrum Widespread roadside species with deep blue-purple flowers Aconitum sinomontanum Whitish-lilac species at Juizhaiguo Aconitum szechenyianum Abundant in high steppe on Anyemaqen Shan, green flowers Adonis coerulea Pale-lilac, feathery leaves, Anyemaqen Shan in tundra Anemone cathayensis Mauve and white flowers, large ‘ruff-like’ bracts, akin to narcissiflora. Huanglong. Anemone demissa A hugely variable species with several distinct forms, the following two of which were widespread Anemone demissa var major Striking white variety with large dissect bract. Widespread Anemone demissa var villosissima Beautiful forms on various passes, some pure deep blue. Stone Mountain, Quiji Pass Anemone imbricata Stone Mountain. Also on rocks near Dari (2011), red-purple flowers. Anemone obtusiloba Locally abundant on grasslands, generally white or pale lilac. Huanglong, Balang Shan Anemone rivularis Very wide inflorescence with long pedicels and purple backed white flowers widespread northern Sichuan Anemone tomentosa Mid-altitude valleys where locally dominant, not quite in flower. Leaves heavily felted beneath, pink flowers, really late July flowering. Anemone trulliifolia Locally abundant on grasslands, slender with oblong leaves with three points. White, yellow, red or purple. Aquilegia ecalcarata Quite frequent alongside streams and rivers in northern Sichuan. Flora of China regards this species as an Aquilegia not Semiaquilegia. Purplish flowers without spurs Aquilegia rockii All purple (with spurs). Huanglong Batrachium bungei A crowfoot, occasionally seen in ditches and ponds Beesia calthifolia Huanglong, large round leaves and small white flowers Caltha palustris Widespread in wet areas, abundant at Huanglong (superb orange- red form near Barkam 2011). Branched inflorescence. Caltha scaposa Common, dwarf highland species with single large flowers, widespread, Huanglong, Stone Mountain Clematis rehderiana Mid altitude species with yellowish campanulate bell-flowers, en route to Huanglong. Clematis tangutica Scattered along roadsides, large yellow bell flowers, acute tips to corolla segments, strongly scented. Some very fine displays especially of subsp. obtusiuscula at Anyemaqen Shan and Qinghai Hu.

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 23

Clemtais montana White flowered species seen at Wolong Paeonia veitchii Fine species with dissect leaves and white or pale to deep pink flowers, widespread especially on areas of scrub/larch adjacent to grasslands Paraquilegia anemonoides Lovely pure white or pale lilac forms on Stone Mountain and abundant in gorge near Anyemaqen. Sometimes regarded as P. Microphylla, but probably conspecific. Ranunculus tangutica Abundant slender buttercup in wet places Thalictrum alpinum Tiny brown-red species in alpine turf Thalictrum delavayi [Mid-altitude valleys 2011] Thalictrum javanicum Yellowish green flowers, scattered Thalictrum petaloideum Pretty white species en route to Qinghi Hu. Shorter than przewalskii and showier. Thalictrum przewalskii Tall white sp, very common north of Dawu 2011 also near Quiji 2012, lovely ‘fluffy’ plumes. Thalictrum squamigerum Dwarf green species at Anyemaqen Shan Thalictrum virgatum Relatively few-flowered Trollius farreri Fine species with red reverse to sepals. Huanglong, Stone Mountain, passes Trollius pumilus Similar, but smaller flowers and reddish on both surfaces of sepals, probably seen Trollius yunnanensis Typical deep yellow trollius, common, dissect leaves, large yellow flowers, Balang Shan

Rosaceae Cotoneaster bullatus Wolong Cotoneaster horizontalis Balang Shan Cotoneaster microphyllus Widespread Fragaria orientalis Very common on banks, etc Potentilla bifurca Steppe en route to Qinghai Potentilla coriandrifolia Alpine turf Potentilla cuneata Balang Shan Potentilla eriocarpa Dense cushion forming shrub, passes Potentilla fruticosa Abundant yellow shrub Potentilla glabra Widespread shrubby species with white flowers Potentilla leuconota Denser leaves than coriandrifolia Potentilla stenophylla Dense leaflets, shiny – alpine turf Prunus serrula Lovely peeling reddish bark, but easily confused with Betula utilis var. prattii. Rosa filipes Impressive scrambling white rose at Wolong Rosa moyesii Apparently this on Balang Shan, but I’m not convinced and think possibly all sweginzowii Rosa sericea Common upland species with white to cream flowers Rosa sweginzowii Fine deep pink species, below Quiji Pass and probably elsewhere Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 24

Rosa willmottiae/forrestii Light pink rose, small leaves, thorns in pairs, one of these two species. Rubus biflorus Wolong, whitish stems Rubus rosifolius Pink flowers, large leaves, Huanglong Sibbaldia purpurea Deep-red flowers, prostrate, alpine turf, Huanglong Pass Sorbaria arborea Foamy cream flower masses on shrubs with large pinnate leaves. Very common along roads. Spenceria ramalana Widespread and spicate ‘potentilla’. Spiraea schneideriana Common white flowered shrub, Wolong, etc

Rubiaceae Leptoderma sp White flowered shrub at Wolong

Rutaceae Zanthoxylum bungeanum Sichuan pepper tree

Salicaceae Populus nigra Or something similar as the common roadside poplar on grasslands around Ganze Populus szechuanicus Magnificent trees on the descent from Langdu Salix magnifica Juizhaiguo Salix spp Other species seen, often planted

Saxifragaceae Chrysoplenium griffithii Huanglong Rodgersia aesculifolia Common in moist forests at Wolong, Juizhiguo, large pinnate- leaved herb with dense pink flowers on branched spikes Saxifraga aurantiaca [Small cushions with yellow flowers, Balang Shan. Not 2012] Saxifraga cernua White, Huanglong Saxifraga lumpoensis Pretty red species at Huanglong pass Saxifraga melanocentra Lovely white flowered species with darker red markings and black centre Huanglong, Stone Mountain, Anyemaqen Saxifraga przewalskii Woods en route to Juizhaiguo, orange Saxifraga pseudohirculus/tangutica Small orange flowers on slender tallish stems by wet seeps, widespread, abundant at Anyemaqen Shan. This and przewalskii are all very similar with tiny differences, hard to determine which. Saxifraga rufescens Round leaves and peculiar slender white flowers, Wolong Tiarella polyphylla Pretty white flowered species at Wolong, Huanglong and other dense woodlands

Schisandraceae Schisandra propinqua subsp sinensis Scrambling shrub, white waxy flowers, Wolong

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 25

Scrophulariaceae Lagotis brachystachya Red-runners and lilac flowers, Anyemaqen Lancea tibetica Widespread, dwarf, purple flowered Triosteum himalayanum Odd-looking leafy herb with reddish green flowers, Balang Shan Triosteum pinnatifidum Dissect leaved species Verbascum thapsus Common along roadsides in drier areas

Solanaceae Hyoscyamus niger Scattered

Thymeleaceae Daphne tangutica Scattered, Huanglong, Wolong, pink flowered shrub Stellera chamaejasme Truly abundant and ubiquitous in pastures and alpine turf. White and red form mainly

Valerianceae Nardostachys grandiflora Very common in grasslands, neat round heads of pink flowers Valeriana officianalis Wolong Valeriana tangutica Very small species among rocks en route to Anyemaqen

Violaceae Viola biflora Widespread yellow violet

Verbenaceae Caryopteris tangutica Min Valley

Zygophyllaceae Peganum multisectum/harmala One of these two species in desertic steppe south of Qinghai Hu

MONOCOTYLEDONS Araceae Arisaema spp Some species seen in seed, not their season

Iridaceae Iris chrysographes Deep purple, fine stands on Balang Shan Iris farreri Formerly identified as sichuanensis! Smaller forms north of Chuanzhusi, huge clumps near Dari (2011) Iris goniocarpa Scattered Iris lactea [North of Dawu, pale blue, not 2012] Iris loczyi A few in flower in steppe near Xinghai, blue, long grassy leaves Iris potaninii Dwarf species in high turf near Anyemaqen, yellow form

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 26

Liliaceae Aletris alpestris Short spikes of small white bells, Balang Shan, etc Aletris pauciflora Laxer spikes of pinkish or white bells Allium chrysanthum Short, yellow heads, sometimes colouring to pink, Stone Mountain, Anyemaqen Allium cyanthophorum Langmusi pass, deep pink-red pendant flowers Allium ovalifolium Petiolate-leaved onion, Huanglong Allium prattii Widespread pink drumstick, broad leaves. Allium przewalskianum Small pink onion in dry steppe en route to Qinghai Hu Allium schoenoprasm Chives! Roadside near Chuanzhusi Allium sp (changduense?) Fine red-purple species near Dawu Cardiocrinum giganteum subsp. Amazing stands belong Balang Shan, huge scented white trumpets yunnanense with red stain at base, up to 2.5 metres tall! Clintonia udensis Small white flowers above large ovate leaves, Huanglong Fritillaria przewalskii Quiji Pass, Langmusi Pass, similar to unibracteata but yellow sometimes with greenish tessellation Fritillaria sichuanica Taller, with larger flowers in pairs, Balang Shan Fritillaria unibracteata Widespread and common, dark purple, but also yellow-green and everything in between Lilium davidii [Tall orange turk’s-cap type locally common at 2500m. Not 2012] Lilium duchartrei [Lovely white turk’s-cap type, only seen in Gansu near Mian Xian, but possible on the tour. Not 2012] Lilium lophophorum Balang Shan, odd egg-shaped flowers that don’t seem to open Lilium regale Unbelievable population in Min Valley with many thousands. Impressive white trumpet lily, fragrant mainly north of Wenchuan c1500 to 2000m Lilium sargentiae [Another fabulous trumpet lily in lush valleys south Huanglong, possible at Wolong. Not 2012] Lloydia ixioliroides White bells with purple base, Stone Mountain Lloydia tibetica Yellow bells, reddish inside Huanglong Pass Maiathemum szechuanicum Wolong, white flowered Ophiopogon bodnierii Slender, small white flowers, Wolong Paris polyphyllum Wolong Polygonatum cirrhifolium Wolong, scrambling through shrubs Polygonatum curvistylum Purplish speckled flowers and stems, Wolong Polygonatum hookeri Very dwarf species with pink flowers, Huanglong pass Polygonatum spp Other species seen but not identified Smilacina henryi Huanglong, tubular green flowers Veratrum macrophyllum Some fine plants in flower on Balang Shan, white flowers on branched infl. with large ribbed leaves Veratrum nigrum More slender than macrophyllum, purplish suffusion, first few flowers opening

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 27

Orchidaceae Aceratorchis tschiliensis Small pink orchid on Langmusi Pass Calanthe tricarinata Red-lipped green orchid, broad ribbed leaves, Wolong, Balang Shan Cephalanthera longifolia Balang Shan, white, leafy stems Coeloglossum viride Locally common on grasslands e.g. Langmusi Pass Cypripedium bardolphianum Unusual dwarf species at Huanglong Cypripedium calcicola Smaller, squarer flowers – probably this seen en route to Juizhaiguo Cypripedium flavum Handsome yellow species at Huanglong, some superb drifts Cypripedium tibeticum Many deep pink ones at Huanglong, superb dark forms common on Balang Shan Epipactis mairei Impressive coppery-flowered orchid at Juizhaiguo Galearis roborowski Wide lipped dwarf pink orchid on Langmusi Pass. Galearis wardii Purple-spotted white flowers, turf on Balang Shan Gymnadenia conopsea Grasslands, e.g. Balang Shan Herminium monorchis Sweet scented, Balang Shan and near Xinghai Herminium ophioglossoides High turf on, Stone Mountain, grasslands Neottia acuminata Delicate tiny brownish-green saprophyte at Huanglong Oreorchis fargesii Quite different to others in the genus, larger white flowers on a capitate cyme, broad green leaves at base, Juizhaiguo Oreorchis nana Huanglong, small golden orchid Oreorchis patens Relatively wide white lipped slender golden orchid at Wolong Phaius (Calanthe) delavayi Yellow form at Huanglong Ponerorchis chusua Small pink orchid. Scattered Ponerorchis crenulata Large lipped dwarf pink orchid on Huanglong Pass Spiranthes sinensis [Gorgeous little pink and white orchid with a twist. Not seen but should be found. Not 2012]

Greentours Natrual History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 28