Athens Top Sights • Local Life • Made Easy
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ATHENS TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY Alexis Averbuck 0-prelims-pk-ath2.indd 1 5/10/2012 9:43:02 AM In This Book 16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19 Before You Go Arriving in Athens Getting Around National Archaeo- logical Museum & Ancient Agora, Athens Exarhia (p98) Need to Your Daily Budget Most visitors arrive at Athens’ Eleftherios Athens has an extensive and inexpensive Monastiraki & Discover the treasures Venizelos International Airport at Spata, integrated public transport network of Psyrri (p38) 27km east of the city centre. Most ferries buses, metro, trolleybuses and trams. Pick at the world's foremost Know Budget less than €100 Neighbourhoods The ancient Athenian QuickStart and cruises arrive at the port of Piraeus. up maps and timetables at the EOT tourist collection of Greek art X Dorm beds €25, pension doubles from €65 civic centre spills into Benaki Museum & office, the airport, or online at www.oasa. and antiquities, then the modern city's Kolonaki (p74) For more information, X Souvlaki shops and tavernas are good value A From Eleftherios Venizelos gr. The metro (www.amel.gr) is the best way soak up the vibe in central shopping hub – see Survival Guide (p 158 ) International Airport to get around town. Conveniently, all public bohemian Exarhia. Consistently fashionable X Stretch your euros in the low season a heady mix of eclectic E# National transport operates under the same ticketing Archaeological and loaded with popular Destination Best Transport shops, restaurants and E Top Sights Currency Midrange €100-€200 system. Tickets good for 90 minutes (€1.40), Museum boutiques, cafes and bars. National Archaeological Euro (€) Syntagma & Metro (blue line) a 24-hour travel pass (€4) and a weekly bars, Kolonaki is also X Double rooms in midrange hotels €80-€160 E Museum Plaka Express bus X95 ticket (€14) are valid for all forms of public Top Sights home to some of the X Local tavernas have hearty midrange fare Language transport except for airport services (airport Keramikos & Gazi Ancient Agora city's premier museums, Monastiraki Metro (blue line) including the Benaki. Greek X Most sights have reasonable entrance fees metro €8, bus €5). (p122) E Thisio Metro (blue line to green line) The city's ancient Top Sights Visas Top End more than €200 Kolonaki Metro (blue line) m Metro cemetery, Keramikos, Benaki Museum X Double rooms in top hotels from €150 leads to the illuminated Not required for citizens of the EU or Express bus X95 Three colour-coded lines criss-cross central towers of Gazi's Schengen countries; not required for stays X Excellent dining; some accompanied by Athens. Line 1 (green) also serves Piraeus. Keramikos Makrygianni Metro (blue line to red line) Technopolis and the E# Greek Parliament, Guide up to 90 days for the US, Canada, Australia Michelin stars Line 2 (red) gets the closest to the Acropolis Benaki Syntagma & Plaka and New Zealand. Psyrri Metro (blue line) and the Acropolis Museum. Line 3 (blue) hottest bar district in Museum X Nightlife and cocktail bars abound # (p58) serves the airport. The central hubs are Syn- Athens. E E # Ancient Parliament anchors Money tagma (blue and red lines) and Monastiraki Top Sights E Agora enormous Plateia N From Piraeus Port (blue and green lines). ATMs widely available. Credit cards Keramikos Syntagmatos, and the Useful Websites accepted in many hotels, restaurants and Destination Best Transport winding lanes of Plaka, shops, but not all. J Bus, Trolleybus & Tram Athens’ Official Site (www.breathtaking Syntagma & Metro (green line to blue lined with shops, Blue-and-white local express buses, regular Temple of athens.gr) With what’s-on listings. Plaka line) Acropolis E# become quaintly Mobile Phones buses and electric trolleybuses operate E# Olympian Ministry of Culture (www.culture.gr) Muse- Bus 040 Zeus residential as they twist Local SIM cards can be used in European every 15 minutes from 5am to midnight. E# up the slope of the ums and archaeological sites. Filopappou Hill & and Australian phones. Most other phones Monastiraki Metro (green line) They are generally slower than the metro, E# Acropolis Acropolis. can be set to roaming. US/Canadian phones Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ and best for neighbourhoods outside the Thisio (p112) Filopappou Museum Greece/Athens) Information, hotel bookings, Thisio Metro (green line) Hill need to have a dual or tri-band system. centre. The free OASA map shows most Unwind in the quiet 11111 traveller forum. 111111 1 1 Kolonaki Metro (green line to blue routes. Athens’ tram (www.tramsa.gr) offers stretch of town Temple of Your keys to under- 11111 1 1 1 line) spanning ruin-strewn Time a slow, scenic coastal journey to Faliro and 11111 Olympian Zeus & Eastern European Time (GMT/UTC plus two Makrygianni Metro (green line to red line) Voula, via Glyfada. Filopappou Hill and the Acropolis Area 1111 Panathenaic cafe-lined pedestrian- 11111 hours, or plus three hours during daylight Advance Planning (p22) 1111 Psyrri Metro (green line) Stadium (p88) savings). K Taxi ised streets of cool Explore the grand The colossal temple Three months before Reserve your hotel Thisio. early to increase choice and reduce price. Avoid driving in Athens at all costs – it is E Acropolis and the leads to the stadium, Plugs & Adaptors A At the Airport much simpler and cheaper to take a cab, but Top Sights superb Acropolis the home of the first One month before Book tickets for a Plugs have two round pins; electrical current beware of taxi driver scams (p 163 ). Filopappou Hill Museum, then wander modern Olympic games, performance at Odeon of Herodes Atticus Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport is 220-240V. North American visitors will the relatively quiet and laid-back residential or Megaron Mousikis. Reserve a table at The arrivals hall has ATMs, tourist informa- require an adaptor and a transformer. streets of Makrygianni. neighbourhoods Mets top-end restaurants. tion, car hire and baggage storage. For those who need to sleep out by the airport to catch E Top Sights and Pangrati. standing the city – Tipping One week before Check online for strike an early flight, there are only two hotels: E Top Sights Acropolis information (http://livingingreece.gr/ Small change and rounding up is usually Sofitel, right at the terminal, and Holiday Inn, Temple of Olympian strikes); book tours. Acropolis Museum su cient. a 15-minute shuttle ride away. Zeus we help you decide what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip 124 Keramikos & Gazi Keramikos 125 104 National Archaeological Museum & Exarhia Neighbourhood Life in Exarhia 105 y Top Tips 2 Graffiti A-Go-Go communal tables. Choose from the buffet of the day’s offerings: a range of Don’t Miss f Do not skip the The walls, alleys and stairways of Ex- Top Sights Local Life home-style Greek cooking and alterna- museum – it contains arhia are adorned with, possibly, some The Grounds of the world’s most creative graffiti. tive fare. Plates come in two sizes: big Keramikos Once inside you’ll find a plan of the site. A path superb original sculp- Neighbourhood Life in Exarhia tures (reproductions Often with a pointed underlying politi- or small. leads down to the right to the remains of the city were placed among cal message, these elaborate works are A cemetery from 3000 BC to the 6th century 1 Map p 128 , D2 wall built by Themistocles in 479 BC, and rebuilt the tombs when the an inspiration to behold. Start at the 6 Record Shopping AD (Roman times), Keramikos was originally a by Konon in 394 BC and around the grounds. The Exarhia’s fun music shops include %210 346 3552 sculptures were moved Exarhia has an eclectic mix of Strefi Hill end of Themistokleous and settlement for potters who were attracted by the wall is broken by the foundations of two gates; 1 Plateia Exarhion the chance to pick up, among other indoors for their comic stores, record shops, publish- Plateia Exarhion is the epicentre of simply wander the neighbourhood, clay on the banks of the River Iridanos. Because Ermou 148, Keramikos tiny signs mark each one. things, old-school vinyl. Serious music Explore protection) ing houses and alternative book neighbourhood life. Pick a spot on the looking for the latest expressions of of frequent flooding, the area was ultimately and clothing stores. It has a vibrant both fancy and ire. fans comb Vinyl Microstore (%210 361 converted to being the city’s primary cemetery, adult/child incl mu- f Bring your imagina- square for prime people-watching. Sacred Gate bar scene, particularly the crowded 4544; www.vmradio.gr; Didotou 34, Exarhia; and now lies below street level due to the silt de- seum €2/free, free with tion: though many of the Locals choose modern cafe-bookshop The Sacred Gate spanned the Sacred Way, along student hang-outs on Mesolongiou, 3 Reclaimed Square mPanepistimio) for eclectic indie, posits. Rediscovered by a worker in 1861 during Acropolis pass ceremonial buildings and Floral (Themistokleous 80, Exarhia; W; which pilgrims from Eleusis entered the city dur- good-value eateries, and rock and The inhabitants of Exarhia took back alternative and dance vinyl releases the construction of Pireos street, Keramikos is gates no longer exist, mOmonia), with grey-toned images of h8am-8pm Apr-Oct, ing the annual Eleusian procession. Between rembetika (Greek blues) clubs. an entire city block, turning it into a and CDs over a coffee. The owners now a lush, tranquil site with a fine museum and this was a monumental retro life and, you guessed it, flowers 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar the Sacred and Dipylon Gates are the foundations Plateia Exarhion (Exarhion Sq) is completely locally planted and main- organise party tours, art exhibitions a collection of magnificent sculptures.