TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Alexis Averbuck

0-prelims-pk-ath2.indd 1 5/10/2012 9:43:02 AM In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Athens Getting Around National Archaeo- logical Museum & Ancient Agora, Athens Exarhia (p98) Need to Your Daily Budget Most visitors arrive at Athens’ Eleftherios Athens has an extensive and inexpensive Monastiraki & Discover the treasures Venizelos International Airport at Spata, integrated public transport network of Psyrri (p38) 27km east of the city centre. Most ferries , metro, and . Pick at the world's foremost Know Budget less than €100 Neighbourhoods The ancient Athenian QuickStart and cruises arrive at the port of . up maps and timetables at the EOT tourist collection of Greek art X Dorm beds €25, pension doubles from €65 civic centre spills into Benaki Museum & office, the airport, or online at www.oasa. and antiquities, then the modern city's Kolonaki (p74) For more information, X Souvlaki shops and tavernas are good value A From Eleftherios Venizelos gr. The metro (www.amel.gr) is the best way soak up the vibe in central shopping hub – see Survival Guide (p 158 ) International Airport to get around town. Conveniently, all public bohemian Exarhia. Consistently fashionable X Stretch your euros in the low season a heady mix of eclectic E# National transport operates under the same ticketing Archaeological and loaded with popular Destination Best Transport shops, restaurants and E Top Sights Currency Midrange €100-€200 system. Tickets good for 90 minutes (€1.40), Museum boutiques, cafes and bars. National Archaeological Euro (€) Syntagma & Metro (blue line) a 24-hour travel pass (€4) and a weekly bars, Kolonaki is also X Double rooms in midrange hotels €80-€160 E Museum Plaka Express X95 ticket (€14) are valid for all forms of public Top Sights home to some of the X Local tavernas have hearty midrange fare Language transport except for airport services (airport Keramikos & Gazi Ancient Agora city's premier museums, Monastiraki Metro (blue line) including the Benaki. Greek X Most sights have reasonable entrance fees metro €8, bus €5). (p122) E Thisio Metro (blue line to green line) The city's ancient Top Sights Visas Top End more than €200 Kolonaki Metro (blue line) m Metro cemetery, Keramikos, Benaki Museum X Double rooms in top hotels from €150 leads to the illuminated Not required for citizens of the EU or Express bus X95 Three colour-coded lines criss-cross central towers of Gazi's Schengen countries; not required for stays X Excellent dining; some accompanied by Athens. (green) also serves Piraeus. Keramikos Makrygianni Metro (blue line to red line) Technopolis and the E# Greek Parliament, Guide up to 90 days for the US, Canada, Australia Michelin stars (red) gets the closest to the Acropolis Benaki Syntagma & Plaka and New Zealand. Psyrri Metro (blue line) and the Acropolis Museum. (blue) hottest bar district in Museum X Nightlife and cocktail bars abound # (p58) serves the airport. The central hubs are Syn- Athens. E E # Ancient Parliament anchors Money tagma (blue and red lines) and Monastiraki Top Sights E Agora enormous Plateia ATMs widely available. Credit cards N From Piraeus Port (blue and green lines). Keramikos Useful Websites Syntagmatos, and the accepted in many hotels, restaurants and Destination Best Transport winding lanes of Plaka, shops, but not all. J Bus, & Athens’ Official Site (www.breathtaking Syntagma & Metro (green line to blue lined with shops, Blue-and-white local express buses, regular Temple of athens.gr) With what’s-on listings. Plaka line) Acropolis E# become quaintly Mobile Phones buses and electric trolleybuses operate E# Olympian Ministry of Culture (www.culture.gr) Muse- Bus 040 Zeus residential as they twist Local SIM cards can be used in European every 15 minutes from 5am to midnight. E# up the slope of the ums and archaeological sites. Filopappou Hill & and Australian phones. Most other phones Monastiraki Metro (green line) They are generally slower than the metro, E# Acropolis Acropolis. can be set to roaming. US/Canadian phones Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ and best for neighbourhoods outside the Thisio (p112) Filopappou Museum /Athens) Information, hotel bookings, Thisio Metro (green line) Hill need to have a dual or tri-band system. centre. The free OASA map shows most Unwind in the quiet 11111 traveller forum. 111111 1 1 Kolonaki Metro (green line to blue routes. Athens’ tram (www.tramsa.gr) offers stretch of town Temple of Your keys to under- 111111 1 1 line) spanning ruin-strewn Time a slow, scenic coastal journey to Faliro and 11111 Olympian Zeus & Eastern European Time (GMT/UTC plus two Makrygianni Metro (green line to red line) Voula, via . Filopappou Hill and the Acropolis Area 1111 Panathenaic cafe-lined pedestrian- 11111 hours, or plus three hours during daylight Advance Planning (p22) 1111 Psyrri Metro (green line) Stadium (p88) savings). K Taxi ised streets of cool Explore the grand The colossal temple Three months before Reserve your hotel Thisio. early to increase choice and reduce price. Avoid driving in Athens at all costs – it is E Acropolis and the leads to the stadium, Plugs & Adaptors A At the Airport much simpler and cheaper to take a cab, but Top Sights superb Acropolis the home of the first One month before Book tickets for a Plugs have two round pins; electrical current beware of taxi driver scams (p163 ). Filopappou Hill Museum, then wander modern Olympic games, performance at Odeon of Herodes Atticus Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport is 220-240V. North American visitors will the relatively quiet and laid-back residential or Megaron Mousikis. Reserve a table at The arrivals hall has ATMs, tourist informa- require an adaptor and a transformer. streets of Makrygianni. neighbourhoods Mets top-end restaurants. tion, car hire and baggage storage. For those who need to sleep out by the airport to catch E Top Sights and Pangrati. standing the city – Tipping One week before Check online for strike an early flight, there are only two hotels: E Top Sights Acropolis information (http://livingingreece.gr/ Small change and rounding up is usually Sofitel, right at the terminal, and Holiday Inn, Temple of Olympian strikes); book tours. Acropolis Museum su՗ cient. a 15-minute shuttle ride away. Zeus we help you decide what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

124 Keramikos & Gazi Keramikos 125 104 National Archaeological Museum & Exarhia Neighbourhood Life in Exarhia 105

y Top Tips 2 Graffiti A-Go-Go communal tables. Choose from the buffet of the day’s offerings: a range of Don’t Miss f Do not skip the The walls, alleys and stairways of Ex- Top Sights Local Life home-style Greek cooking and alterna- museum – it contains arhia are adorned with, possibly, some The Grounds of the world’s most creative graffiti. tive fare. Plates come in two sizes: big Keramikos Once inside you’ll find a plan of the site. A path superb original sculp- Neighbourhood Life in Exarhia tures (reproductions Often with a pointed underlying politi- or small. leads down to the right to the remains of the city were placed among cal message, these elaborate works are A cemetery from 3000 BC to the 6th century 1 Map p 128 , D2 wall built by Themistocles in 479 BC, and rebuilt the tombs when the an inspiration to behold. Start at the 6 Record Shopping AD (Roman times), Keramikos was originally a by Konon in 394 BC and around the grounds. The Exarhia’s fun music shops include %210 346 3552 sculptures were moved Exarhia has an eclectic mix of Strefi Hill end of Themistokleous and settlement for potters who were attracted by the wall is broken by the foundations of two gates; 1 Plateia Exarhion the chance to pick up, among other indoors for their comic stores, record shops, publish- Plateia Exarhion is the epicentre of simply wander the neighbourhood, clay on the banks of the River Iridanos. Because Ermou 148, Keramikos tiny signs mark each one. things, old-school vinyl. Serious music Explore protection) ing houses and alternative book neighbourhood life. Pick a spot on the looking for the latest expressions of of frequent flooding, the area was ultimately and clothing stores. It has a vibrant both fancy and ire. fans comb Vinyl Microstore (%210 361 converted to being the city’s primary cemetery, adult/child incl mu- f Bring your imagina- square for prime people-watching. Sacred Gate bar scene, particularly the crowded 4544; www.vmradio.gr; Didotou 34, Exarhia; and now lies below street level due to the silt de- seum €2/free, free with tion: though many of the Locals choose modern cafe-bookshop The Sacred Gate spanned the Sacred Way, along student hang-outs on Mesolongiou, 3 Reclaimed Square mPanepistimio) for eclectic indie, posits. Rediscovered by a worker in 1861 during Acropolis pass ceremonial buildings and Floral (Themistokleous 80, Exarhia; W; which pilgrims from Eleusis entered the city dur- good-value eateries, and rock and The inhabitants of Exarhia took back alternative and dance vinyl releases the construction of Pireos street, Keramikos is gates no longer exist, mOmonia), with grey-toned images of h8am-8pm Apr-Oct, ing the annual Eleusian procession. Between rembetika (Greek blues) clubs. an entire city block, turning it into a and CDs over a coffee. The owners now a lush, tranquil site with a fine museum and this was a monumental retro life and, you guessed it, flowers 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar the Sacred and Dipylon Gates are the foundations Plateia Exarhion (Exarhion Sq) is completely locally planted and main- organise party tours, art exhibitions a collection of magnificent sculptures. gateway to the city for on the walls. Folks buy books, use the of the Pompeion, used as an important ceremo- the local focal point, with many tav- tained urban park. See the reclaimed in the basement and an indie music m Thisio the ancients. wi-fi, chat and watch the world go by. nial centre for the Panathenaic Procession ernas along pedestrian Valtestiou square bordered by Didetou, Harilaou festival. Spindle (www.spindlevinylrecords. It’s a good place to start the day or (p43 ). f Also bring water as and Benaki, and bustling cafes and Trikoupi, Navarinou and Zoodohou gr; 49 Didotou, Exarhia; mPanepistimio) is bars around nearly every corner. evening before exploring. VARIO IMAGES GMBH & CO.KG/ALAMY © there is no cafe or shop Pigis – a real work in progress. across the street. Dipylon Gate really nearby. The once-massive Dipylon Gate was the city’s Old-World Taverna 7 Go Cretan for Dinner f Admission to the #æ2 4 main entrance and where the Panathenaic Pro- Neighbourhood denizens love Oxo Athens site and the museum is Strefi Hill Lunch at Exarhia institution Bar- cession began. It was also where the city’s prosti- us Nou (%210 380 1778; Emmanuel Benaki 63- eo bagiannis (%210 330 0185; Emmanuel included in the Acropolis kl tutes gathered to offer their services to travellers. to 65, cnr Metaxa, Exarhia; mains €8-11; h3pm- ticket. is K Benaki 94, Exarhia; mains €5-7; hlunch & From a platform nearby, Pericles gave his famous Stournara Plateia m al he idrom dinner Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; mOmonia), late daily; mOmonia) for its super Cretan 0000000Exarhion T speech extolling the virtues of Athens. 0000000 Met an extremely low-key mayirio (cook food. This cheery new restaurant with 0000000 i 0000000#æ1 honis ou 5 Take a Break 0000000 house) on a quiet corner. Choose from large plate glass windows serves a 0000000 Eresou Street of Tombs Solomou 0000000 the variety of big trays of traditional widely praised range of the island’s Either head to the cafes 0000000 #ú4 De This avenue was reserved for the tombs of Ath- 0000000 rvenio specialities. 0000000 EXARHIA dishes behind the counter, such as ens’ most prominent citizens. Some surviving ste- in Gazi for a sandwich is Pig pastitsio (layers of baked macaroni A n u or drink, or return T ra o lae (grave slabs) are now in the on-site museum z #æ7 h 8 Live Local Music a Va hov o and minced meat), washed down with towards the city centre v od and the National Archaeological Museum; what e l o Athenians come to Exarhia for its l t i Z house wine. on Ermou to the Thisio la M ets s you see are mostly replicas. Kolleti ki e off-beat bars, live-music venues and na ta iou and Monastiraki neigh- x a oupi rembetika clubs. See our listings for A rik 5 Boho Lunch The best things to bourhoods. n Archaeological Museum of Keramikos nuel Be T d a complete array of choices, or hop Solo r Or slip over to Kimatothrafstis (%213 The small but excellent museum contains Emma down to the bar strip at Ma Harilaou 030 8274; Harilaou Trikoupi 49, Exarhia; small/ Mesolon- remarkable stelae and sculptures from the site, nos n is #ú5 large plate €3.80/6.80; h8am-11pm, closed giou to start your night, and see what such as the amazing 4th-century-BC marble bull s happens. L #æ8 gi Di dinner Sun; mOmonia), a great-value, from the plot of Dionysos of Kollytos, as well as o u Pi #æ3 dotou n o 0 200 m tou oh e# bright and casual modern cafe with funerary offerings and ancient toys. d #6 0 0.1 miles Zoo see and do, Keramikos neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

136 Ancient Athens 137 148 Best Bars & Clubs Best Bars & Clubs 149

1 Temple of 4 Ancient Temple of Athena Nike, the superb Temple of Olympian Zeus Theatres then enter through Hephaestus, also has a the grand gates of the top-notch museum in Best Walks The Temple of Olym- On the way up the Best Propylaia to visit the the Stoa of Attalos. Ancient Athens pian Zeus (p90 ), the southern slope of the Bars & Clubs largest temple in Greece, Acropolis, explore iconic Parthenon as well as the Erechtheion, Roman Agora had 104 Corinthian the Theatre of 7

with its statuesque BILDERLOUNGE/GETTYIMAGES © columns, of which 15 Dionysos (p 28) – the The highlight of the Come nightfall, Athens is undoubtedly one of 2 The Walk remain. It was dedicated birthplace of theatre – Porch of the Caryatids. Roman Agora (p 48 ) the liveliest European capitals. A heady cocktail On a clear day you can The key ancient sites of Athens make for an action- to supreme god Zeus. and the magnificent is the well-preserved of the hedonistic Greek spirit, restless energy

see for miles from the MARKA/ALAMY © packed but manageable walk from the Temple of Peisistratos began Odeon of Herodes Tower of the Winds. and relaxed drinking laws contribute to the city’s sweeping hilltop. Olympian Zeus, past the Acropolis Museum and up building it in the 6th Atticus (p 29 ), built in Built in the 1st century vibrant nightlife. The pursuit of a good time is The Best to the Acropolis, then down around the other side century BC, a succession AD 161 and still in use BC, it functioned as considered almost sacrosanct – as evidenced of the hallowed hill into the Plaka and Monastiraki of leaders continued, today. 6 Ancient Agora an ingenious sundial, some years back when moves to impose stricter neighbourhoods, where you will find the Ancient and Hadrian finally Exit the Acropolis from weather vane, water closing times failed miserably. Rooftop bar overlooking Athens Agora and Roman Agora. If you only have one day completed it in AD 131. 5 Acropolis the north gate and clock and compass. to see the sights, this is the walk to take. visit ancient Athens’ Each side represents a y Top Tips The Acropolis (p 24 ) By Neighbourhood Hadrian’s Arch civic centre: the Ancient point of the compass, City Anchoring party Second Skin Athens’ Best Cocktail Bars Start Temple of Olympian Zeus; mAkropoli 2 is the most important Athens’ sophisticated bar scene includes anything f With the current Agora (p40 ). The seat of and has a relief of a street Haritos. (p85 ) goth hang-out. (p53 ) Heading towards Plaka, ancient site in the from glamorous bars and hip arty hang-outs to strapped À nancial Baba Au Rum Dream it Finish Ancient Agora; mMonastiraki, Thisio democracy, philosophy figure depicting the teetering on the edge of Western world. Take in casual neighbourhood haunts. New bars open climate in Athens Alexandrino Classic Ex- Booze Cooperativa A up and they can make and commerce, this wind associated with Length 2.4km; three hours the traffic, is Hadrian’s its diminutive, restored constantly as fads come and go: a recent hotspot watch your back arhia wine bar with great collective: from bar to it. (p69 ) rambling site, with that point. Arch (p 91) , the ornate is Gazi, while cool bars are sprouting in the back wherever you go. cocktails too. (p107 ) music to crafts. (p 70 ) Gin Joint Too many gins gateway erected in AD 00 5 Take a Break Pe 00 streets around Plateia Karytsi north of Syntagma Tralala A favourite with A Liar Man Tiny and to count. (p61 ) lop 0 200 m f Sky bars, like 132 to mark the bound- Peikilis ida e# actors. (p109 ) intimate. (p127 ) #æ6 0 0.1 miles and emerging areas like Keramikos. Psyrri goes in Galaxy Bar atop the Bartessera Another Two of the easiest spots to stop for a bite to eat or #æ7 ary between Hadrian’s SYNTAGMA and out of fashion. Alternative music clubs and a cool drink are the Acropolis Museum’s restaurant, Epaminonda Kyrr Hilton, oՖ er elevated Duende Like a French great spot in the Syn- of Athens Athens and the ancient is with its magical views of the Parthenon, and Kuzina Dioskouron L tou ou Nikodim crowded cheap student bars are found around views (and prices). brasserie. (p36 ) Best Rooftop tagma party area. (p 69 ) yss avarh ou city. u iou N PLAKA 000 Exarhia, while Kolonaki’s scene steadfastly attracts (Map p46 , C3; %210 324 0133; www.kuzina.gr; Adrianou 9, Mitroo Ad 000 Terraces Nixon Bar Keramikos’ Sch f For the best danc- ria 000 Monastiraki; mains €12-25; mThisio), both are good op- 000 the trendier set. Best Specialty Gazarte Views from best watering hole. Areopagus Hill n ing in summer, cab it 3 Acropolis Aretousas o liou ou 000 tions on Adrianou for contemporary Greek cuisine. 000 to the beach clubs – Ambience Technopolis to the (p132 ) Museum s 000 Party Habits ria Acropolis. (p127 ) eo ANAFIOTIKA city locations close. James Joyce Irish pub h R While mayhem reigns on weekends, weeknights are The landmark Acropo- T a S n attracting expats. (p53 ) 45 Moires Gives Gazarte Best Clubs tr g still surprisingly lively. Bars often don’t kick off until (p 30 ) a Plateia lis Museum a to v Filomousou stiff competition. (p 132 ) #æ5 Acropolis a 11pm, nightclubs well after midnight, and the city’s Blue Fox Rockabilly and Rock’n’Roll Dependably contains the precious n Eterias Best Classic o ’50s-era swing, complete Bios Bauhaus arts centre fun, with a casual-cool sculptures from the s infamous bouzoukia (caberet-style nightclubs) come Drinking Holes with poodle skirts. (p109 ) with great rooftop bar. crowd. (p79 ) Acropolis, preserved Odeon alive even later. Most clubs have a door charge and The city’s # Theatre of os Vasilissislias Seven Jokers Central, # a (p133 ) of Herodes # pricey drinks; club-goers dress to impress. Brettos Colourful glass Venue Big, thumping in spacious, well-lit #4 #æ4 Dionysos Am and great to start the Atticus Leofor In summer the action moves to rooftop terraces bottle-lined distillery. mayhem. (p127 )

ATHENS 2004/ALAMY © glory. These include the #æ night. (p69 ) caryatids and amaz- 2 and garden courtyards and spills out onto the (p70 ) Best Music Bars Villa Mercedes Glam Di Hoxton Boho meets ce- ing works from the onysiou Ar pavements, or revellers brave the traffic to party at Barley Cargo Beer bar Faust Hot, tiny cabaret. dinner-spot and night- eopagitou #æ lebrity hang-out. (p131 ) Parthenon’s pediments, 1 the beachside clubs. galore. (p70 ) (p54 ) club. (p132 ) Temple of Mai Tai Jam-packed n Athenians don’t drink to get drunk (drinks often metopes and frieze. Filopappou ¡# Olympian Zeus Galaxy Bar Old-school Ginger Ale Fifties-era K44 Rotating schedule Hill Akropoli come with a snack): public drunkenness is uncom- always...Kolonaki’s tseo professionals’ bar. (p70 ) coffee shop cum rocking of top DJs. (p 133 ) MAKRYGIANNI #æ3 ¡# faithful. (p79 ) Mi mon and frowned upon. highlights Theatre of Dionysos (p28 ) nightspot. (p110 ) 00 00 in handy lists Best Walks ’Athens’ Best… to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

160 Survival Guide Essential Information 161 162 Survival Guide Essential Information 163

Eleftherios ¨ Taxis to the city centre ¨ The three intersect- pays the fare on the me- Central Post O՗ ces Electricity Emergency weekly Athens News and First Sunday in Lent of the À nancial crisis. Venizelos cost €30 (45 minutes). ing lines are: green (line ter minus any diversions Tickets & Passes 7.30am to 8pm Monday Athens Plus, published by February Though violent street 1, also known as the to drop others (note what ¨ Police (%100) Kathimerini. crime remains relatively International ¨ Bus 040 (€1.40) runs Tickets good for 90 minutes (€1.40), a 24-hour to Friday, 7.30am to 2pm Greek Independence Ilektriko), red (line 2) and it’s at when you get in). ¨ Tourist police (%210 rare, travellers should be Airport to Syntagma every 15 to travel pass (€4) and a weekly ticket (€14) are Saturday, 9am to 1.30pm Day 25 March blue (line 3). alert on the streets, espe- 20 minutes. ¨ Short trips around Cen- valid for all forms of public transport except for Sunday 920 0724, 24hr 171; Veïkou Money ¨ Half-hourly blue-line Good Friday March/April cially at night, and beware ¨ All stations have wheel- tral Athens cost around airport services. Bus/trolleybus-only tickets 43-45, ; h8am-10pm; y Top Tip It’s wise to metro trains (one way/re- Bars 8pm to late the traps listed here. chair access. €5. Beware of taxi scams (€1.20) cannot be used on the metro. Children mSyngrou-Fix) keep cash on hand as Orthodox Easter Sun- turn €8/14, one hour) run (p 163 ). under six travel free; people under 18 and over Cafes 10am to midnight many establishments day 5 May 2013, 20 April ¨ Streets surrounding between the city centre ¨ Visitor emergency 65 pay half-fare. Buy tickets in metro stations prefer it. Omonia have become and airport from 5.30am Taxi ¨ Olympic Air oՖ ers an Clubs 10pm to late assistance (%112) Toll- 2014,12 April 2015, 1 May or bus booths and at most periptera (kiosks). markedly seedier, with to 11.30pm. y Best for…quick trips online taxi prebooking Restaurants 1pm to free 24-hour service in ¨ Currency Greece uses 2016 Validate the ticket in the machine as you board an increase in prostitutes Getting around town and night- service. English. the euro. Survival ¨ your transport of choice. 3pm (lunch) and 7pm May Day (Protomagia) When returning to the and junkies; avoid the time travel. ¨ Ambulance/À rst-aid airport some trains termi- Around Taxibeat (https://taxibeat. to 1am (dinner), though ¨ ATMs Widely available; 1 May area, especially at night. advice (%166) nate early at Doukissis ¨ Despite the large gr) Mobile app for hailing most restaurants in cen- usually a charge on with- Whit Monday (Agiou 5am and midnight and to Voula (tram 5, 59 to Plakentias, where you number of yellow taxis, it available taxis by location tral Athens and tourist ¨ SOS Doctors (%210 drawals abroad. Pickpockets Metro service much of the city. 65 minutes) from 5am Pnevmatos) 50 days get out and wait till an can be tricky getting one, and rating. Can book areas stay open all day in 821 1888, 1016; h24hr) Pay ¨ Credit cards Accepted Favourite hunting y Best for…almost all Trolleybuses run 24 hours to midnight Monday to after Easter Sunday airport train (displayed daytime travel; there’s especially during rush from abroad. summer. service with English- in some hotels, restau- grounds are the metro, on the 11–Patisia–Pan- Thursday and Sunday Feast of the on the train and platform an extensive network hour. Thrust your arm out 220V/50Hz speaking doctors. rants and shops, but particularly the Piraeus– grati route. and 24 hours Friday and Shops 9am to 3pm Assumption 15 August screen) comes along. of conveniently located vigorously. Reliable Operators certainly not all. Kifisia line, and crowded Saturday. Monday, Wednesday and stations. ¨ Booking a radio taxi costs Ohi Day 28 October streets around Omonia, ¨ Express buses X95 To avoid an argument Saturday, 9am to 2.30pm Internet Access ¨ Money changers Sev- €1.88 extra. Tram Athinas and the Monasti- (€5, one to 1½ hours) ¨ The metro (www.amel. about the fare, check that eral around Syntagma, as Christmas Day y Best for…beach-club and 5.30pm to 8.30pm ¨ Most hotels and many raki Flea Market. operate every 15 minutes, gr) runs every three to the meter is running and ¨ Athina 1 (%210 921 2800) well as banks. hopping. Tuesday, Thursday and cafes have internet ac- 25 December 24 hours a day, between 10 minutes from 5.30am set to the correct tariՖ ¨ Enotita (%801 115 1000) Friday (5pm to 8pm cess or wi-À . ¨ Tipping Small change St Stephen’s Day Taxi Scams the airport and Plateia to just after midnight and expect airport, toll ¨ Athens’ single tram Guide in winter). Most major and rounding up is usu- ¨ Most (but not all) rip- Syntagmatos, with a few (to 2am Friday and and bag (over 10kg) sur- ¨ Ikaros (%210 515 2800) (www.tramsa.gr) line ¨ Free wireless hot spots 26 December Essential shopping strips in central ally su՗ cient. oՖ s involve taxis picked intermediate stops. Buy Saturday). charges. Total fares vary takes a scenic route are at Syntagma, Thisio, ¨ Kosmos (%18300) Athens are open all day; up from ranks at the tickets at the kiosk near depending on tra՗ c. along the coast, but it is Gazi, Plateia Kotzia and Safe Travel ¨ Information airport, train stations, bus the bus stop. Tickets (€1.40) must be ¨ Parthenon (%210 532 in Plaka and tourist ¨ If a taxi picks you up not the fastest means of the port of Piraeus. Public Holidays validated at platform en- ¨ Crime has heightened terminals and particularly 3000) transport. It’s handy for areas, until about 11pm. y Top Tip Greece’s ¨ Taxis to the city centre trances and are valid for while already carrying Business Hours ¨ Buy prepaid dial-up the port of Piraeus. At Department stores and biggest blow-out holi- in Athens with the onset cost €35 (one hour). passengers, the fare is revellers travelling to the y Top Tip With the odd internet cards for your 90 minutes on all modes day, Orthodox Easter, is not shared: each person Bus & Trolleybus city’s beaches and beach economic climate, open- supermarkets 8am to ¨ Express buses X96 of transport. laptop at OTE (Greece’s preceded by a week of y Best for…airport after clubs (operating around ing hours and prices are 8pm Monday to Friday, (€5, 1½ hours) operate main telecommunica- celebration. The whole the clock from Friday changing continuously; 8am to 6pm Saturday. Money-Saving Tips Tips and tricks the metro has stopped tions carrier) shops or country gets a holiday and 24 hours (every 15 to 20 some places close. Call Transport Maps running. evening to Sunday, every Germanos stores. hotels book up. ¨ Look out for free entry at sights (p 156 ). minutes) from the airport 40 minutes). ahead if in doubt. to Piraeus, the main port. Metro maps are quite clear in the stations and ¨ For the city centre, All banks and shops and ¨ Buy the one €12 Acropolis ticket (p 35 ) that’s Standard business hours 220V/50Hz onboard trains, but for getting further afield, walking, metro and taxis ¨ The central terminus most museums and an- good for the six major archaeological sights. are as follows, unless Media pick up maps and timetables at the EOT tour- are almost always the is opposite the National cient sites close on public Piraeus Port specified in the reviews: English-language papers ¨ Carry ID for student, EU or senior citizen ist office, the airport and train stations, Athens Gardens. Tickets (€1.40) holidays. better choice. Buses are the English edition of discounts. ¨ Urban Transport Organisation (OASA; %185; are purchased on the Banks 8am to 2.30pm Metro trains (€1.40, are better for areas not Kathimerini, published New Year’s Day 1 January www.oasa.gr; Metsovou 15, Exarhia/Mouseio; h6.30am- platforms. Trams run ¨ Greek taverna portions are large, and meals green line) run to the city reached by metro. Monday to Thursday, daily (except Sunday) centre every half-hour 11.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30pm Sat & Sun), or from from Syntagma to Faliro 8am to 2pm Friday Epiphany 6 January are often shared family style – follow this local ¨ Athens’ overhead cable with the International from 5.30am to 11.30pm. its website. (tram 4, 50 minutes) and custom. for a seamless, trolleybuses run between Herald Tribune, and the hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

0-prelims-pk-ath2.indd 2 5/10/2012 9:43:06 AM Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: Athens 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping neighbourhood s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus pages will take you to some n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Athens. v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

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0-prelims-pk-ath2.indd 3 5/10/2012 9:43:11 AM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Athens 21 Athens Top Sights ...... 8 22 Acropolis Area Athens Local Life ...... 12 Athens Day Planner ...... 14 38 Ancient Agora, Monastiraki & Psyrri Need to Know ...... 16 Athens Neighbourhoods....18 58 Greek Parliament, Syntagma & Plaka

74 Benaki Museum & Kolonaki

88 Temple of Olympian Zeus & Panathenaic Stadium

98 National Archaeological Museum & Exarhia

112 Filopappou Hill & Thisio

122 Keramikos & Gazi

Worth a Trip: Wandering Central Market ...... 56

0-prelims-pk-ath2.indd 4 5/10/2012 9:43:35 AM The Best of Survival Athens 135 Guide 157 Athens’ Best Walks Before You Go ...... 158 Ancient Athens ...... 136 Arriving in Athens ...... 159 Syntagma & Plaka to Getting Around ...... 160 Monastiraki ...... 138 Essential Information ...... 161 Athens’ Best… Language ...... 166 Archaeological Sites ...... 140 Museums ...... 142 Food ...... 144 Cafes...... 146 With Kids ...... 147 Bars & Clubs ...... 148 Nightlife & Entertainment ...... 150 Gay & Lesbian Athens ...... 152 Art Events & Galleries...... 153 Shopping ...... 154 For Free ...... 156

0-prelims-pk-ath2.indd 5 5/10/2012 9:43:37 AM -quickstart-pk-ath2.indd 6 5/10/2012 9:51:50 AM 7 QuickStart Guide Athens Top Sights...... 8 Athens Local Life ...... 12 Athens Day Planner ...... 14 Need to Know ...... 16 Athens Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to Athens

From the iconic Acropolis rising majestically above the expanse of the city to modern art galleries, charming neighbourhood squares and lively bars, bustling Athens is a delightfully quirky clash of past and present, a city that confronts and surprises. Visitors are drawn by ancient monuments bathed in the famous light, but it’s the city’s infectious, creative vibe that enamours and enlivens.

Entrance to the Acropolis (p24 ) COLIN DUTTON/SIME/4CORNERS ©

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