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Pocket Athens 3 Preview

TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Alexis Averbuck

00--title-contents-pk-ath3.inddtitle-contents-pk-ath3.indd 1 99/10/2015/10/2015 11:09:2611:09:26 AM In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Athens Getting Around National Archaeo- logical Museum & Ancient Agora, Athens Exarhia (p000) Need to Your Daily Budget Most visitors arrive at Athens’ Eleftherios Athens has an extensive and inexpensive & Discover the treasures Venizelos International Airport at , integrated public-transport network of , Psyrri (p000) Budget less than €100 27km east of the city centre. Most ferries and metro, and . Pick up maps at the world's foremost Know Neighbourhoods The ancient Athenian X Dorm beds €25, pension doubles from €65 cruises arrive at the port of . and timetables at the EOT tourist office, collection of civic centre spills into Benaki Museum & QuickStart (p165) the airport or online at www.oasa.gr. and antiquities, then X Eat at souvlaki shops and tavernas the modern city's For more information, A From soak up the vibe in (p000) The metro (www.amel.gr) is the best way central shopping hub – see Survival Guide (p157). X Save euros in the shoulder or low season International Airport Consistently fashionable to get around town. Conveniently, all public E# National bohemian Exarhia. a heady mix of eclectic Archaeological E and loaded with popular Destination Best Transport transport operates under the same ticketing shops, restaurants and Top Sights Currency Midrange €100–200 Museum boutiques, cafes and system. Tickets good for 70 minutes (€1.20) bars. National Archaeological Euro (€). X Doubles in midrange hotels €80–160 Syntagma & metro (blue line); bars, Kolonaki is also express X95 and a 24-hour/five-day travel pass (€4/10) E Top Sights Museum home to some of the X Local tavernas have hearty midrange fare are valid for all forms of public transport city's premier museums, Language Monastiraki metro (blue line) Keramikos & Gazi Ancient Agora X Most sights have reasonable entrance fees except for airport services (airport metro €8, Greek. (p000) including the Benaki. Thisio metro (blue line to bus €5). E The city's ancient Top Sights Top End more than €200 green line) Visas The three-day tourist pass (€20) includes cemetery, Keramikos, Benaki Museum X Double rooms in top hotels from €150 Not required for citizens of the EU or Kolonaki metro (blue line); one airport round trip. leads to the illuminated Schengen countries; not required for stays X Excellent dining; some accompanied by express bus X95 towers of Gazi's Keramikos Metro # Greek Parliament, of up to 90 days for citizens of the US, Michelin stars m and one of E Makrygianni metro (blue line to Benaki Syntagma & Plaka Guide , and New Zealand. Three colour-coded lines criss-cross central Athens' hottest bar Museum X Nightlife and cocktail bars abound red line) Athens. (green) also serves Piraeus. districts. E# (p58) Psyrri metro (blue line) (red) gets the closest to the Acropolis E E# Ancient Parliament anchors Money Top Sights Agora Useful Websites and the . (blue) enormous ATMs widely available. Credit cards Keramikos Syntagmatos, and the Athens’ Official Site (www.thisisathens.org) From Piraeus Port serves the airport, and at the time of writing accepted in many hotels, restaurants and N winding lanes of Plaka, shops, but not all. With what’s-on listings. was being extended to Piraeus. The central Destination Best Transport lined with shops, Arts & Culture (www.elculture.gr) Theatre, hubs are Syntagma (blue and red lines) and Temple of AcropolisE# become quaintly Mobile Phones music and cinema listings. Syntagma & Plaka metro (green line to Monastiraki (blue and green lines). E# Olympian Zeus residential as they twist blue line); bus 040 E# Local SIM cards can be used in European Ministry of Culture (www.culture.gr) J Bus, & up the slope of the and Australian phones. Most other phones Monastiraki metro (green line) Filopappou Hill & E# Acropolis Museums and archaeological sites. Blue-and-white local express buses, regular Acropolis. can be set to roaming. US/Canadian phones Thisio (p000) Filopappou Museum Greek National Tourism Organisation Thisio metro (green line) buses and electric trolleybuses operate every Hill need to have a dual- or tri-band system. Unwind in the quiet 11111 (www.visitgreece.gr) 15 minutes from 5am to midnight. They are 111111 1 1 Kolonaki metro (green line stretch of town Temple of Your keys to under- generally slower than the metro, and best for 111111 1 1 to blue line) spanning ruin-strewn Time Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ 11111 neighbourhoods outside the centre. The free Olympian Zeus & (GMT/UTC plus two /Athens) Destination information, Makrygianni metro (green line Filopappou Hill and the Acropolis Area 1111 Panathenaic OASA map shows most routes. cafe-lined pedestri- 11111 hours). hotel bookings, traveller forum. to red line) (p000) 1111 Stadium (p000) Athens’ tram (www.stasy.gr) offers a slow, anised streets of cool Explore the grand The colossal temple Psyrri metro (green line) Thisio. Plugs & Adaptors scenic coastal journey to Faliro and , E Acropolis and the leads to the stadium, Plugs have two round pins; electrical current Advance Planning via . Top Sights superb Acropolis Three months before Reserve your hotel the home of the first is 220–240V. North American visitors will Filopappou Hill Museum, then wander early to increase choice and reduce price. modern Olympic games, require an adaptor and a transformer. K Taxi the relatively quiet and laid-back residential One month before Book tickets for a perfor- Avoid driving in Athens at all costs – it is streets of Makrygianni. neighbourhoods Mets Tipping mance at (p28) or much simpler and cheaper to take a cab, but E Top Sights and . standing the city – Megaron Mousikis (p34). Reserve a table at Small change and rounding up is customary. beware of taxi-driver scams. Fixed to/ E Top Sights top-end restaurants. from the airport are posted at the airport Acropolis Temple of Olympian taxi stand; expect day/night (midnight to Acropolis Museum One week before Check online for strike Zeus information (http://livingingreece.gr/ 5am) €35/50 to the city centre, and €47/72 we help you decide strikes); book tours. to Piraeus. what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

12 Local Life 13 24 Acropolis Area Acropolis 25

y Top Tips Don’t Miss Athens Top Sights f Visit early in the Parthenon morning to escape the Local Life Acropolis The Parthenon is the monument that epitomises crowds and heat. 1 Map p32, B1 the glory of . It is dedicated to f The main entrance The Acropolis is the most important ancient site Athena Parthenos, the goddess embodying the is from Dionysiou Areo- %210 321 0219, disabled Insider tips to help you À nd the real city in the Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, power and prestige of the city. The largest Doric pagitou near the Odeon access %210 321 4172 it rises over Athens, visible from almost every- temple ever completed in Greece, and the only one of Herodes Atticus.

where within the city. Its monuments of Pentelic http://odysseus.culture.gr built completely of Pentelic marble (apart from the /GETTY IMAGES © marble gleam white in the midday sun and wood in its roof), it was designed by Iktinos and f Wheelchairs access Explore the site via a cage lift; After visiting Athens’ magniÀ cent ancient wonders it’s time to experience adult/child/concession gradually take on a honey hue as the sun sinks, Kallicrates to be the preeminent monument of the neighbourhood life in the city: we’ll show you the way through the downtown hurly- €12/free/6 call ahead to arrange it while at night they stand brilliantly illuminated Acropolis and was completed in time for the Great burly to quiet shaded cafes and delightful neighbourhood squares, and guide you above the city. A glimpse of this magnificent sight (%210 321 4172) then go h8am-8pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Panathenaic Festival of 438 BC. to the main entrance. to Athenians’ favourite dining haunts, shopping spots, galleries and bars. cannot fail to exalt your spirit. Other great places Nov-Mar, last entry 30min Cafes, Kolonaki (p78) Parthenon Columns f Large bags must be to experience the before closing The eight fluted Doric columns at either end and left at the main entrance Plaka – with its his- city like a local: art galleries and favour- its super, laid-back eater- mAkropoli 17 on each side were ingeniously curved to create cloakroom. Exploring Wandering the toric houses, Byzantine ite low-key tavernas. ies and join its dynamic Ancient an optical illusion: the foundations (like all the Monastiraki Central Market churches and winding f The Acropolis admis- Then pick between a student nightlife. Promenade (p37) ‘horizontal’ surfaces of the temple) are slightly /GETTY IMAGES © narrow lanes climbing sion pass (p35) (p44) (p56) night watching a film concave and the columns are slightly convex mak- the slopes of the Acropo- includes entry to several X Bustling markets X Awesome people-watching under the stars or club- Kalamaki ing both appear straight. Supervised by Pheidias, lis – is much more than a A Night Out in sights. X Favourite hang-outs X Sensory extravaganzas bing with the fashion- Kolonaki (p85 ) the sculptors Agoracritos and Alcamenes worked Monastiraki’s antique- Athens’ Central Market tourist mecca. We’ll show Keramikos & Gazi Athens f Box o՚ ces close 15 to able set. Or do both! on the architectural sculptures of the Parthenon, lined squares and anchors a neighbourhood you how to shop like a (p126) Ariston (p68 ) including the pediments, frieze and metopes, 90 minutes before sites. jam-packed pedestrian thrumming with activity local, and later head into Check www.culture.gr for X Gourmet dining which were brightly coloured and gilded. markets always draw and sensations. The mar- Syntagma to find one of Neighbourhood X Bars galore Kallipateira (p50 ) free-admission holidays Athenians, but new ket and its environs are the city’s most up-and- Life in Exarhia and changing opening Gazi and Keramikos Parthenon Pediments breeds of coffee shops, an extravaganza of col- coming bar districts. (p104) have become synony- Saturday Street The temple’s pediments (the triangular ele- hours. Market (p110 ) restaurants and bars have ours, scents and sounds X Gra ՚ ti-covered streets mous with partying at ments topping the east and west facades) were sprung up and attract a comprising spice shops, X Lively restaurants and bars an ever-changing array filled with elaborately carved three-dimensional People-Watching in Telis (p53 ) 5 Take a Break hip, young crowd. tavernas, art galleries and Kolonaki (p78) Beneath Exarhia’s gritty of pubs and clubs. sculptures. The west side depicted Athena and Spend the day explor- the city’s premier rembe- facade is one of Athens’ Make a night of it Swing into Dionysos Cremino (p66 ) Poseidon in their contest for the city’s patronage, ing the traditional and tika (blues songs) club. X Thriving cafe scene most vibrant, unconven- by dining at some of (p36) for coffee and X Sizzling nightlife the east Athena’s birth from Zeus’ head. See their the trendy, manoeuvring tional neighbourhoods. Athens’ top eateries excellent views of the Kolonaki is home to Ath- Cine The best things to remnants and the rest of the Acropolis’ sculptures through chaos and Creative graffiti shouts then exploring rooftop- monument. Shopping Around ens’ high society. Watch Athinaia (p86 ) and artefacts in the Acropolis Museum. charm, grit and ancient social messages, and terrace cocktail bars or Plaka (p60) the world go by from its Or, book ahead for a splendour. low-key cafes around the city’s gay scene. Just Rembetika Metopes & Frieze X Cool boutiques popular streetside cafes, late-afternoon lunch at Plateia Exarhion show follow the party from Istoria (p111 ) The Parthenon’s metopes, designed by Pheidias, X Top cocktails top-notch contemporary- Mani Mani (p35). its gentler side. Explore bar to bar. are square carved panels set between chan- nelled triglyphs. The metopes on the eastern side see and do, View of the northern side of the acropolis neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

138 Syntagma & Plaka to Monastiraki 139 142 Best Museums Best Museums 143

Best Walks 1 Plateia which marks the entry private hammams in its and leads to Hadrian’s Syntagma Syntagmatos to the quar- gift shop. Library (p50 ), once the ter. This picturesque most luxurious public Start in this square Best & Plaka to (p64) named for the maze of little white- 5 Plateia building in the city, washed houses is the Mitropoleos erected by the epony- Monastiraki constitution granted Museums on 3 September 1843. legacy of stonemasons Jaunt north to expansive mous emperor around Time your visit to catch from the small Cycladic Plateia Mitropoleos, AD 132. With the embarrassment of riches that is Athens’ island of , who 2 The Walk the changing of the with Athens Cathedral and Greece’s history, museums are superb were brought in to build Monastiraki Boisterous, monument-packed central Athens is guard (p64 ) outside the (p48 ) and its smaller, 7 showcases of all things Greek. On a short visit

the king’s palace after Flea Market /GETTY IMAGES © /GETTY IMAGES © best explored on foot. The historic centre, main parliament building, more historically sig- you’ll have to choose among them, but you won’t Independence. archaeological sites, major landmarks, museums every hour on the hour. nificant neighbour: 12th- Wrap up with a wander be disappointed no matter where you go. and attractions are close to one another. The main To the left of the metro century Church of Agios in Monastiraki. The col- civic hub of Athens, Plateia Syntagmatos (Syn- entrance spot a section 4 Turkish Baths Eleftherios, known as ourful, chaotic central Archaeological Museums tagma Sq) , merges into the historic Plaka and of the ancient cemetery Find the Bath House the . square teems with street Many of Greece’s most precious statues and |Monastiraki neighbourhoods, which mesh one and the Peisistratos of the Winds (p50 ) vendors and leads to artefacts have been collected in Athens for their into the next, and make for a super stroll in which aqueduct. on Kyrristou or other 6 Hadrian’s shopper’s or people- y Top Tips to soak up a bit of city-centre life. At any point Turkish baths inside the Library watcher’s paradise: own protection. In well-lit, temperature-controlled f Bring ID to spacious, superbly Kanellopoulos Museum Byzantine & Christian The Best along the way, ancient sites lie nearby, calling for free Museum of Greek the Monastiraki Flea environments these treasures will be able to survive curated gem. (p30) Peruse everything from Museum Is it art? Is 2 Lysikrates Pandrosou, a relic of the a detour. millennia more. The powerhouse is the National qualify for student, Monument Popular Instruments old Turkish bazaar, is Market (p45). senior citizen or EU Museum of Cycladic Art vases to icons and jewel- it culture? It’s simply Archaeological Museum, the world’s best repository lery in a Plaka mansion. downright beautiful. Start Plateia Syntagmatos; m Syntagma Built in 334 BC, the (p66), which has one of full of souvenir shops discounts. Equally an art museum, Athens’ only remaining of art and artefacts. The Acropolis (p64) (p82) Lysikrates Monument with minimalist, ancient Finish Monastiraki Flea Market; m Monastiraki 000 Museum, opened to much-deserved fanfare in 2009, f For the most (cnr Sellei & Lysikratous) 000 Cycladic sculptures that Greek Folk Art Museum National Museum of 0000 0000 000 is a splendid example of showcasing ancient art in popular museums, Length 2.5km; three hours stands in what was once 0000 0000Er SYNTAGMA inspired Picasso and The main site and its an- Contemporary Art In a 0000 0000 mou 00 00000000000000 an innovative, modern setting. try to go early to beat part of the Street of 0000 #7 0000 00 00000000000000 Modigliani. (p83 ) nexes put Greek secular freshly remodelled brew- 0000 0000Monastiraki000 u MONASTIRAKI00 000000000u 00000 the crowds. 0000 0000000 o Ermou 000000000o 00000 and religious art on ery, see contemporary Tripods (modern Tripo- ou #¡0000000 000000000i Syntagma00000 Art Museums Ancient Agora Museum 5 Take a Break Ifest 0000000 000000000d 00000 Pa Eol #¡ ndr 0000000000 000000000a 00000 show: from embroidery Greek and international Ad 0000000000 000000000t 00000 Study the history of don), where winners of rianou osou 0000000000 00000000000000 Most of Athens’ archaeological museums could Midway along the walk you can chill out at Klepsy- #6 0000000000Mitro 000000000S #1 00000 to pottery, weaving and art stars. (p33 ) ancient dramatic and 0000000000#5 poleos 00000000000000 display everything from democracy and Athenian dra (%210 321 2493; Klepsydras & Thrasyvoulou, Plaka; Plateia0000 Arhaia 0000000000 00000000000000 equally be characterised as art museums, with their puppets. (p66 ) choral contests dedicated Agoras0000 0000000000 00000000000000 troves of Greek and Roman sculptures, pottery and Greek and Islamic cul- civic life. (p41 ) National Art Gallery snacks €4; h9am-1am; mMonastiraki) cafe, which 0000Ad 0000000000 00000 leous Jewish Museum A small, A rambling collection Areos 0000ri 0000000000 00000 ture to modern art. their tripod trophies to 0000anou os 00000 jewellery. But the city also has several museums offers a quiet respite in the busy downtown. llon kis #4 isik Apo i beautifully displayed of predominantly 20th-

of Athens N Dionysos. Reliefs depict Xe dedicated to more modern forms: painting, etching, Cultural Museums Mn nofontos Markou Diogenous collection tracing the his- century art, emphasising the battle between PLAKA Archaeological Aureliou contemporary art forms such as installations, and Benaki Museum This tory of Greece’s Jewish Greek painters. (p83 ) on Museums Dionysos and the Tyr- #4 Ky u Nikodim rotating exhibitions of international shows. They rris avarho ou expansive private collec- population. (p64) tou N 000lin u L l Theocharakis Foun- rhenian pirates, whom voulo ys K 000 s National Archaeologi- sy siou e also often have educational programs and lecture or tion brings together pre- Thra o 000 a u 000 li Tholo u d dation for the Fine the god had transformed o r 000Fil a music series from time to time. cal Museum The world’s cious works from all over Prytan o d m i u Art Museums Arts & Music Rotating i r 00 foremost repository of into dolphins. ou T n Greece and the Ottoman r e 00 eo s A National i Ip 00 in i exhibitions cycle through ANAFIOTIKA p 00h s 00000 Cultural Museums ancient Greek artefacts /LONELY PLANET IMAGES © t Gardens Empire. (p76) Benaki Museum Pireos od da s 00000 y li 00000 this Kolonaki mansion #3 o K i in an enormous neoclas- 3 Anafiotika n s 00000 Some museums, particularly in the Plaka and Mo- Annexe One of the city’s a 00000 Museum of Islamic Art S 00000 that also offers concert V 00000 sical building. (p100 ) leading contemporary Quarter t Plateia nastiraki neighbourhoods, focus on more traditional r s s 00000 A Benaki annexe housing a o Filomousou o 00000 series. (p84 ) to id powerhouses in a cool The city’s highlights Acropolis sp r Zappeio 00000 Greek culture. From puppet making to regional Acropolis Museum On Stratonos, which e Eterias o 00000 exquisite examples of n Th f Gardens 00000 o o 00000 dress and musical instruments – pick your poison. Art and finds from the Islamic art and culture. converted industrial skirts the Acropolis, s e 00000 # L 00000 space. (p129 ) rises the Church of St 2 00000 The different annexes of the Benaki Museum Acropolis shine in this (p129) e 0200m George of the Rock, # 00.1miles in handy lists to help Shoppers browsing goods at Monastiraki flea market, you plan Best Walks Athens’ Best… See the city on foot The best experiences

160 Survival Guide Essential Information 161 162 Survival Guide Essential Information 163

Eleftherios especially during rush Enotita (%210 645 9000, handy for revellers travel- Internet Access and shops, but certainly Feast of the Assumption Venizelos Inter- Tickets & Passes hour. Thrust your arm out 18388; www.athensradiotaxi ling to the city’s beaches Money-Saving Tips not all. 15 August ¨ Most hotels and many national Airport Tickets are good for 70 minutes (€1.20) and 24- vigorously. enotita.gr) and beach clubs. ¨ Look out for free entry at sights. cafes have internet access Currency Greece uses Ohi Day 28 October hour/five-day travel passes (€4/10) are valid for ¨ To avoid an argument ¨ The central terminus ¨ Half-hourly blue-line Parthenon (%210 581 or wi-À . the euro. Christmas Day all forms of public transport except for airport about the fare, check that is opposite the National ¨ Buy the €12 Acropolis ticket (p35) as it includes metro trains (one way/ 4711) Money changers Several 25 December services, the three-day tourist ticket (€20) the meter is running and Gardens. Tickets (€1.20) entry to seven other major archaeological sights. ¨ Free wireless hot return €8/14, one hour) includes one round-trip airport transport. Bus/ spots are at Syntagma, around Syntagma, as well set to the correct tariՙ and are purchased on the ¨ Carry ID for student, EU or senior-citizen St Stephen’s Day run between the city trolleybus-only tickets (€1.20) cannot be used Bus & Trolleybus Thisio, Gazi and the port as banks. expect airport, toll and bag platforms. discounts. 26 December centre and airport from y Best for…the airport of Piraeus. on the metro. Children under six travel free; pas- (over 10kg) surcharges. Tipping Small change 5.30am to 11.30pm. sengers under 18 and over 65 pay half-fare. Buy after the metro has ¨ Trams run from ¨ Greek taverna portions are large, and meals Total fares vary depending ¨ Buy prepaid dial-up and rounding up is tickets in metro stations or transport kiosks or stopped running. Syntagma to Faliro (45 are often shared family-style – follow this local Safe Travel ¨ When returning to the on tra՚ c. internet cards for your most periptera (newspaper kiosks). Validate the minutes), Syntagma to custom. customary. airport some trains ter- ¨ For the city centre, laptop at OTE (Greece’s ¨ Crime has increased Survival ticket in the machine as you board your trans- ¨ If a taxi picks you up Voula (one hour) and Faliro minate early at Doukissis walking, metro and taxis main telecommunications in Athens with the onset port of choice. while already carrying to Voula from 5.30am to Plakentias, where you get are almost always better Public Holidays of the À nancial crisis. passengers, the fare is 1am Sunday to Thursday Standard business hours areas some shops stay carrier) shops or Germa- out and wait till an airport choices. Buses are better nos stores. y Top Tip Greece’s Though violent street not shared: each person (every 10 minutes), and are as follows, unless open until about 11pm biggest blow- out holi- train (displayed on the for areas not reached by crime remains relatively centre every half-hour ¨ The metro (www. pays the fare on the meter from 5.30am to 2.30am specified in the reviews: in summer. Department day, Orthodox Easter, is train and platform screen) metro. 220V/50Hz rare, travellers should be from 5.30am to 11.30pm. ametro.gr) runs every minus any diversions to on Friday and Saturday Media preceded by a week of comes along. Banks 8am to 2.30pm stores and supermarkets alert on the streets, espe- three to 10 minutes from drop others (note what it’s ¨ Athens’ overhead cable (every 40 minutes). celebration. The whole ¨ Taxis to the city centre Monday to Thursday, 8am 8am to 8pm Monday English- language papers cially at night, and beware ¨ Express bus X95 (€5, 5.30am to just after at when you get in). trolleybuses run between are the English edition of country gets a holiday and cost €15 to €30 (30 to 45 to 2pm Friday to Friday, 8am to 6pm the issues listed here. one to 1½ hours) operate midnight (to 2am Friday 5am and midnight and hotels book up. minutes). ¨ Short trips around cen- Saturday. Kathimerini (www.ekathi every 20 minutes, 24 Emergencies All banks and shops and ¨ Streets surrounding and Saturday). tral Athens cost around service much of the city. Bars 8pm to late merini.com), published hours a day, between the ¨ Bus 040 (€1.20) runs to Trolleybuses run 24 hours most museums and an- Omonia have become ¨ Tickets (€1.20) must €5. Beware of taxi scams. Essential Cafes 10am to midnight Ambulance/À rst-aid daily (except Sunday) with airport and Plateia Syn- Syntagma every 15 to 20 on the 11––Pangrati Electricity cient sites close on public markedly seedier, with (%166) the International Herald be validated at platform ¨ The Uber smartphone tagmatos (Syntagma Sq), minutes. route. Information Central post o՚ ces Tribune, and the weekly holidays. an increase in prostitutes Guide entrances and are valid for app (www.uber.com) is in with a few intermediate 7.30am to 8pm Monday Police (%100) and junkies; avoid the ¨ Athens tramway and 70 minutes on all modes Athens Plus. Press Pro- New Year’s Day 1 January stops. Buy tickets at the eՙ ect in Athens. to Friday, 7.30am to 2pm area, especially at night. additional metro of transport. Tram SOS Doctors (%1016, ject (www.thepressproject.gr) kiosk near the bus stop. Saturday, 9am to 1.30pm Epiphany 6 January extensions to the port of ¨ Taxibeat (www.taxibeat. y Best for…beach-club- Business Hours 210 821 1888; h24hr) Pay has online news with an ¨ The three intersecting Strikes ¨ Taxis (www.athens Piraeus are underway, gr) is a mobile app for hopping. y Top Tip With the odd Sunday service with English- English version. First Sunday in Lent lines are: green (line 1, also Strikes and demonstra- airporttaxi.com) to the and scheduled to be hailing available taxis by economic climate, open- Clubs 10pm to late speaking doctors. February known as the Ilektriko), red location and rating. Can ¨ Athens’ tram (www. stasy. ing hours and prices are tions can disrupt public city centre cost a Á at fare completed by 2017. Money Greek Independence day/night (midnight to (line 2) and blue (line 3). book from abroad. gr) oՙ ers a slow, scenic changing continuously; Restaurants 1pm to 3pm Tourist police (%210 920 transport and sight open- y Top Tip It’s wise to Day 25 March ings, but they are often 5am) €35/50 (one hour). ¨ All stations have wheel- coastal journey to Faliro some places close. Call (lunch) and 7pm to 1am 0724, 24hr 171; Veïkou 43-45, ¨ Welcome Pickups ahead if in doubt. keep cash on hand as Tips and tricks chair access. and Voula, via Glyfada. It’s (dinner), though most ; h8am-10pm; Good Friday March/April announced in advance. ¨ Express bus X96 (€5, (www.welcomepickups. many establishments pre- They usually proceed restaurants in central Ath- mSyngrou-Fix, Akropoli) fer it, and bank closures 1½ hours) operate 24 Getting com) provides prebooked Orthodox Easter Sunday to ; ens and tourist areas stay Visitor emergency assis- have happened as part of hours (every 20 minutes) Taxi airport pick-ups and 1 May 2016, 16 April 2017, steer clear. Check www. Transport Maps open all day in summer. the debt crisis. from the airport to Pi- Around y Best for…quick trips drop-oՙ s. tance (%112) Toll-free 8 April 2018, 28 April 2019 livingingreece.gr/strikes/ Metro maps are quite clear in the stations and on raeus, the main port. around town with loads of Shops 9am to 3pm 24-hour service in English. ATMs Widely available; for the latest. Reliable Operators board trains, but for getting further afield, pick May Day (Protomagia) luggage, and night-time Monday, Wednesday and usually a charge on with- Metro travel. Booking a radio taxi costs up maps and timetables at the EOT tourist office 1 May Piraeus Port Saturday, 9am to 8pm drawals abroad. Pickpockets y Best for…almost all €1.92 extra. (p165), the airport and train stations, the Athens Whit Monday (Agiou ¨ Despite the large Tuesday, Thursday and 220V/50Hz Favourite hunting grounds ¨ Metro trains (€1.20, daytime travel; there’s an Urban Transport Organisation (OASA; %185; Credit cards Accepted in number of yellow taxis, it Athina 1 (%210 921 7942) Pnevmatos) 50 days are the metro, particularly extensive network of con- www.oasa.gr), or from its website. Friday. In Plaka and tourist for a seamless, green line) run to the city some hotels, restaurants after Easter Sunday the Piraeus–Kifisia line, veniently located stations. can be tricky getting one, hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

00--title-contents-pk-ath3.inddtitle-contents-pk-ath3.indd 2 99/10/2015/10/2015 11:09:3011:09:30 AM Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: Athens 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping neighbourhood s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus pages will take you to some n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Athens . v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

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02a-explore-the-louvre.indd 28 19/08/2011 11:08:57 AM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Athens 21 Athens Top Sights ...... 8 22 Acropolis Area Athens Local Life ...... 12 Athens Day Planner ...... 14 38 Ancient Agora, Monastiraki & Psyrri Need to Know ...... 16 Athens Neighbourhoods.... 18 58 Greek Parliament, Syntagma & Plaka

74 Benaki Museum & Kolonaki

88 Temple of Olympian Zeus &

98 National Archaeological Museum & Exarhia

112 Filopappou Hill & Thisio

122 Keramikos & Gazi

Worth a Trip: Wandering the Central Market 56

00--title-contents-pk-ath3.inddtitle-contents-pk-ath3.indd 4 99/10/2015/10/2015 11:09:4311:09:43 AM The Best of Survival Athens 135 Guide 157 Athens’ Best Walks Before You Go ...... 158 Ancient Athens ...... 136 Arriving in Athens ...... 159 Syntagma & Plaka Getting Around ...... 160 to Monastiraki ...... 138 Essential Information ...... 161 Athens’ Best… Language ...... 166 Archaeological Sites ...... 140 Museums ...... 142 Food ...... 144 Cafes...... 146 Tours & Courses ...... 147 With Kids ...... 148 Bars ...... 149 Nightlife & Entertainment ...... 150 Gay & Lesbian ...... 152 Art Events & Galleries...... 153 Shopping ...... 154 For Free ...... 156

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Athens Local Life ...... 12

Athens Day Planner ...... 14

Need to Know ...... 16

Athens Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to Athens

From the iconic Acropolis rising majestically above the city to modern-art galleries, charming neighbourhood squares and lively bars, bustling Athens is a delightfully quirky clash of past and present, a city that confronts and surprises. Visitors are drawn by ancient monuments bathed in the famous light, but it’s the city’s infectious, creative vibe that enamours and enlivens.

View of the Parthenon and Acropolis (p24) MFFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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