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Український Народний Одяг — Ukrainian Folk Costumes

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Український Народний Одяг — Ukrainian Folk Costumes digitized by ukrbiblioteka.org УКРАЇНСЬКИМ НАРОДНИЙ ОДЯГ UKRAINIAN FOLK COSTUME Світова Федерація Українських Жіночих Організацій Комісія Народного Мистецтва World Federation of Ukrainian Women's Organizations Folk Art Committee Toronto — Philadelphia, 1992 УКРАЇНСЬКИЙ НАРОДНИЙ ОДЯГ — UKRAINIAN FOLK COSTUMES Редактори української мови: Editors: Петро Одарченко Petro Odarchenko Галина Царинник Halyna Carynnyk Переклад англійською мовою: English text translated from Ukrainian and edited by: Орися Пащак-Трач Orysia Paszczak-Tracz Коректор: Proofreader: Льоес Юдишес Lois Udicious Обкладинка: Cover: Роман Завадович Roman Zavadowycz Ілюстрації: Illustrations: Галина Титла, кольорові рисунки Halyna Tytla, color drawings Мирослава Стахів, вишивка Myroslava Stachiv, embroidery Марія 3. Левицька-Барабах, Marija Z. Lewycka-Barabach, чорно-білі рисунки black and white drawings Фінансова секретарка: Financial secretary: Володимира Лучків Volodymyra Luczkiw Світлини: Photos: Денис Стахів Denys Stachiw Надія Оранська Nadija Oranska Рецензент: Technical consultant: Раїса Захарчук-Чугай Raisa Zacharchuk-Chuhai Консультанти: Consultants: Олена Ґіба, Зірка Данилюк, Людмила Демиденко, Іван Olena Giba, Zirka Danyliuk, Ludmyla Demydenko, Ivan Ihnatiuk, Ігнатюк, Ірина Кашубинська, Теофіля Мельничук, Євдокія Iryna Kashubynska, Teofila Melnytchuk, Ewdokija and Dmytro і Дмитро Сороханюки, Володимир Шиприкевич, Марія Sorochaniuk, Wolodymyr Shyprykewych, Maria Sholucha. Шолуха. Комісія Народного Мистецтва СФУЖО Library of Congress Catalog Даниленко Наталія - адміністраторка видання Card Number: 90-071681 члени: Бурачинська Лідія Note: Волинець Любов The excerpt from “Khustyna” [p. 280] is reprinted by Воропай Олекса permission from The Poetical Works of Taras Shevchenko - Гурська Ольга The Kobzar. Translated by C. H. Andrusyshen and Watson Дячук Уляна Kirkconnell. Toronto: Published for the Ukrainian Canadian Committee by University of Toronto Press, 1964. Загребельна Мирослава Заяць Ірина Printed by: Printing Methods Inc. Кормелюк Наталія 1525 Emerson Street Лучків Володимира Rochester, New York 14606 Мегик Петро Мудрак-Цішкевич Мирослава Одарченко Петро Пащак-Трач Орися Стахів Мирослава digitized by ukrbiblioteka.org ЗМІСТ CONTENTS Наталія Даниленко. Подяка 1 Natalia Danylenko. An Appreciation Лідія Бурачинська. Передмова 2 Lydia Burachynska. Foreword Петро Одарченко. До історії дослідження Petro Odarchenko. Historical Research of українського народного одягу 4 the Ukrainian Folk Costume Наддніпрянщина 21 Dnipro region Київщина 41 Kyiv area Полтавщина 55 Poltava area Чернігівщина 69 Chernihiv area Харківщина 81 Kharkiv area Поділля 93 Podilla region Північна Буковина 113 Northern Bukovyna Полісся 125 Polissia Волинь 143 Volyn region Г уцульщина 161 Hutsul region Бойківщина 177 Boiko region Закарпаття 191 Zakarpattia Лемківщина 203 Lemko region Яворівщина 215 Yavoriv region Сокальщина 229 Sokal region Підляшшя 241 Pidliashia region Холмщина 255 Kholm region Українські сорочки 266 Ukrainian shirts Очіпок 270 Ochipok Намітка 272 Namitka Свита 276 Svyta Мирослава Стахів. З історії вишивки 278 Myroslava Stachiv. From the History of embroidery Хустини і хустинки 280 Khustyny and khustynky in Ukrainian everyday life Любов Волинець. Обрядові рушники 284 Lubov Wolynetz. Rushnyky — ritual cloth Раїса Захарчук-Чугай. Вибійка 286 Raisa Zaharchuk-Chuhai. Vybiika Словник народних термінів, використаних у книжці 289 Glossary of words used in identyfying apparel Петро Одарченко. Бібліографія 303 Petro Odarchenko. Endnotes Мапа 307 Map Добродії видання 309 List of Patrons TRANSLATOR’S NOTE ertain words do not translate just cloth or fabric. Specifically, it is occasion or celebration. Geographical well from one language to home-spun and home-woven undyed names of cities, towns, and rivers were Canother. Instead of one exact word inlinen or hempen fabric. Sukno is a transliterated from the Ukrainian (for the other language, a few words or a particular woolen fabric, usually home- 'example, Kyiv — not the Russian long phrase may be needed to get woven. Different clothing was worn for “Kiev,” and Dnipro, not “Dnieper”). across the same concept. In the case everyday, or work, and for special The Library of Congress table of of this work, the translator has occasions. For this reason, sviato transliterations was used. For technical transliterated a few words into English [sing.] and/or sviata [pi.] were reasons, diacritical marks were not text without translating, because there translated with different words for included in the transliteration. is no equal English word. For exam­ variety, but the basic meaning is holy ple, polotno cannot be translated as day, feast-day, holiday, festival, festive Orysia Paszczak Tracz digitized by ukrbiblioteka.org ПОДЯКА нижка ,,Український ся українським народним побутом, kom, якби не було пожертв на її народний одяг” праця, зокрема одягом. видання українських фінансових над якою тривала майже п’ять Цінним додатком вважаємо інституцій, декого зі співавторів К років, вийшла друком. Завданнясловник народних назв частин та багатьох організацій і осіб, книжки зберігати мистецьку твор­ одягу та деяких предметів з по­ свідомих важливости зберігання чість українського народу, буту. Народний одяг поступово мистецьких надбань українського значною частиною якого є одяг; цілком зникає, а з ним і терміни. народу. допомогти відтворювати в наш У книжці вони будуть збережені. Вдячні Вам усім! час його зразки, тому текст її — Комісія Народного Мистецтва двома мовами. Світової Федерації Українських Важливість видання підкреслює Жіночих Організацій вдячна всім, Наталія Даниленко розділ ,,До історії дослідження хто працював над створенням Голова Комісії Народного українського народного одягу” . З книжки, усім, хто давав поради в Мистецтва СФУЖО нього читач довідається як з давніх- процесі праці. давен дослідники глибоко цікавили­ Книжка ця не вийшла б дру- AN APPRECIATION Ш / krainian Folk Costume, the bi- “The History of Research into This book could have not appeared lingual book which has taken Ukrainian Folk Costume.” The reader without the financial support of almost five years of preparation and will learn that from early on in Ukrainian financial institutions, of writing, finally has been published. history, researchers have had a deep some of the members of the Editorial It is dedicated to the artistically- interest in Ukrainian folk life, and Board, and of many organizations and gifted Ukrainian people, and we especially in the folk costume. individuals who are aware of the im­ believe it will be welcomed by the The glossary of folk terms related portance of preserving the cultural readers with open hearts. This work to clothing and, partially, to the pea­ heritage of the Ukrainian people. will preserve the legacy of folk art’s sant way of life is a valuable addition We are deeply grateful to all ingenuity — and the folk costume is to the book. The folk costume is of you. one of this art’s major components. disappearing gradually and, with it, Also, it will help, to a greater extent, the terminology. Here it will be in recreating these costumes. The preserved. Natalia Danylenko English text will promote the The Folk Arts Committee of the Chairperson, Folk Arts Committee dissemination of information about the World Federation of Ukrainian World Federation of Ukrainian creativity of our people to a wider Women’s Organizations is grateful to Women’s Organizations audience. all who worked on the book, and to The importance of Ukrainian Folk all who contributed to it with their Costume is highlighted in the chapter counsel and recommendations. 1 FOREWORD n their countries of settlement out­ The time frame for the description Kyiv, Poltava, Chernihiv, and Kharkiv. side of Ukraine, Ukrainian of all folk costumes is the end of the Bukovyna has been separated from the women’s organizations have included 19th and the beginning of the 20th description of the Podillia Region, folkI art as one aspect of their many centuries. even though it is related, because the areas of interest and activity. Many In this book, in order to verify Bukovyna costume is so distinctive. organizations have formed museum each description, the Editorial Board Also, even though they are similar in collections, and some have even sought out advisors who knew the dialect, we have separated the Boiko founded museums. A few years ago, costume of their particular region well. and Zakarpattia Regions, because the the Folk Arts Committee of the World They are acknowledged in the latter has created its own characteristic Federation of Ukrainian Women’s introduction. costume on the southern slopes of the Organizations (SFUZhO) planned the In planning this publication, we Carpathian Mountains. publication of a book about the gave much thought to the number of Of the 30 color illustrations, most Ukrainian folk costume. I was invited different regional examples of folk are of the female costume, because it to write the text and, because of my costume which should be included. has more variety and is more elaborate knowledge of the subject, I agreed. As Vbrannia [Clothing], published by the in ornamentation. At the beginning editor of the journal Nova Khata in Academy of Sciences of the Ukrainian there is an example of a typical Lviv from 1930 to 1939 and as a par­ SSR in 1961, gives four regional costume, one which is used mostly for ticipant of four folk costume exhibits examples: Dnipro Region, Podillia, the stage. during 1935-38, I was able to study the Polissia, and Western Ukraine.
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