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The Alpine Guide
Ball, John
London, 1898
ETH-Bibliothek Zürich
Shelf Mark: Rar 3095
Persistent Link: http://dx.doi.org/10.3931/e-rara-18327
Section 8. Aiguilles d'Arves district.
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Condizioni di utilizzo Questo documento può essere scaricato gratuitamente. Il tipo di licenza e le condizioni di utilizzo sono indicate nella notizia bibliografica del singolo documento. Per ulteriori informazioni vedi anche [Link] IIO DAUPHINE ALPS . (COTTIAN ALPS . II .)
better as rock-climbers than as glacier no means perfect) as regards the guides, and the traveller is still Belledonne group. advised to insist on the usual pre¬ It has been stated that the earlier cautions being taken on ice and part of the summer should be pre¬ snow. In time, no doubt, the ferred for climbs in the Pelvoux dis¬ Dauphine cragsmen will acquire a trict, because snow then lies in gullies competent knowledge of snow craft. and on slopes which are scarcely A tariff for all the principal climbs accessible without its aid. But this has been published by the above- statement is only exact to a very mentioned S.T. D., which issues limited extent, though of course in licences to the guides and porters the height of the summer is whom it has there here, approved. as in other parts of the Alps, less In 1892 Mr. Coolidge and his col¬ snow than early in the season. leagues put It forth a thoroughly revised must not, however, be supposed that English edition of their book, under spring snow melts faster in the title of ‘ The Central Dauphine Alps of the than in portions of the Alpine chain Dauphiny ’(‘Climbers’Guides ’Series), further to the N., as this most certainly accompanied by a corrected edition is not the case. The district , however, of M. Duhamel’s maps. This book seems to rejoice should be consulted for in more steady fine further details weather than other districts, and than can be given in these pages as early visitors will be to all enchanted by climbs in the Pelvoux group, the richness and beauty of the flora, and also in the Aiguilles d’Arves especially in the neighbourhood of group between the Col du Galibier the Lautarct . and the Olle valley. The original French work (to which a supplement was issued in 1890) must, however, still be referred to for the old names of peaks and passes, quotations from old topographical authorities, and a complete list of books and maps re¬ SECTION 8. lating to the district . For the Alle- AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT . vard and Belledonne ranges Joanne ’s ‘ Alpes Dauphinoises,’ vol. i. (1890), Two streams unite at Briaru^on to will give all necessary information, form the Durance . One, the Clainti while Joanne ’s ‘ Dauphine ’ (1898) which is the main source of that river, contains a general account of the flows in from the N.W., having risen whole district. The valleys E. of the in the neighbourhood of the Durance Mont are included in Chapter II ., Thabor . The ridges which enclose §§ 3- 6, of the present work. For the it have been described in §6. Rtes. D Chartreuse, and its surroundings, and E. The other, the Guisanc^ Joanne is the best general book, runs in also from the N.W., but has its but may be supplemented by the origin further W., near the Lautaret local guide-books mentioned in § 10. and Rte. D. Galibier passes. These last-named passes form the S. and E. limits re¬ The Brianfon (No. 189) and St. spectively of the district Jean described in de Maurienne (No. 179) sheets the present Section. The valley of of the great French map in¬ the Arc on the N., and that of Graisi- clude most of the ranges described in vaudan on the W., are the other boun¬ this Chapter, with the Grenoble (No. daries. The ranges enclosed 178) and within Vizille (No. 188) sheets for these limits are really the most westerly some of the minor ridges. It is said outliers of the Cottian Alps, and that the j 50000 maP (Carte du Service indeed of the entire Alpine chain. Vicinal) is more accurate (though by But they' have no one centre, and are, in § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT in these pages, grouped together 3. W. of the Grandes Rousses, and simply for reasons of practical con¬ separated from them by the valley of venience. In olden days they formed the Olle, is a lofty, but much longer, the line of division between Dauphine ridge. This extends parallel to the course of the Isere on the W. from and Savoy, and the highest summits, many minor ones, are on the Vizille nearly to Aiguebelle, and its besides on the direction of the Savoy side of the watershed. Yet, as influence they are usually attacked from the valleys is seen in the bend which the Dauphine side, they may be included, Arc makes to the N., and the without confusing the reader , among Romanche to the S., before they the Dauphine Alps, which are the respectively join the Is&re. The Col subject of this Chapter. Many tra¬ de la Coche and the plateau of the vellers, too, approach the higher Sept Laux really subdivide this group peaks of Dauphine over the peaks into two distinct portions. That on of this group, which for the N. and E. may be roughly de¬ and passes as the mountains around want of a better name may take that scribed of its loftiest summits. Allevard , of which the highest sum¬ As has been pointed out already, mits are the Pity Gris (2,992 m., these ranges are made up of several 9,816 ft.) and the Rocher Blanc more or less independent clusters of (2,931m., 9,617 ft.), while the Pic du mountains. Three, or even four, may Frene (2,808 m., 9,213 ft.) is the last be distinguished. lofty peak at the N. end of the ridge. la Coche and W. 1. The most easterly ofvthese in¬ S.W. of the Col de cludes the ridges between the Col du of the middle bit of the Olle glen is Ualibier and the Col des Pres the tangled cluster of peaks cul¬ Nouveaux, or, in other words, between minating in Belledonne (2,981 m., the Valloirette and Arvan torrents. 9,781 ft.), which is also their best It includes the Aiguilles d’Arves, known summit. three rock pinnacles so extremely All these ranges are described in steep as to be nearly clear of snow, succession in the following Section— the Central (3,511 m., 11,520 ft. ) the Aiguilles d’Arves group in Rtes. B in and Southern (3,509 m., 11,513 ft. ) and C, that of the Grandes Rousses Allevard points being the highest summits de¬ Rtes. D and E , and the . They mountains in Rtes. F, G, and H , scribed in the present Section to Belle¬ lie nearly N. of La Grave, but are while Rte. I is devoted wholly on the Savoy side of the water¬ donne and its neighbours. It is also most convenient to include in this shed. From these points a high - ridge extends to the N. between the Section accounts of the Col du Lau Valloirette and Arvan torrents, of taret (Rte. A), its S. boundary, and which the Grande Chible (2,936 m., of the Col du Galibier (Rte. B), its 9*633 ft.) is the N. end. E. limit. The valley of the Arc Next comes the range of the (N. limit) is described in § 7. 2. Graisivaudan Grandes Rousses (3,473 m., 11,395 Rtes. A and B, and the ft-), which stretches in a long snow- (W. limit) in § 10. Rtes. B and C. clad ridge, with many glaciers, from § 9 is taken up with the main mass N- to S. between the Col des Pres of the high Dauphine peaks, which Nouveaux and the winding course of form a great mountain peninsula, Ihe Olle on the W. This range in¬ linked to the rest by the isthmus of cludes by far the most extensive snow the Col du Lautaret . fields in the entire district, as there aje but two small glaciers on the E. side of the Aiguilles d’Arves, and the snow basin of the Glacier Lombard on their S. 112 DAUPHIN ^ ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT
there are important factories of Port¬ Route A . land cement. For further particulars as to this pleasant city the traveller GRENOBLE TO BRIANtpON BY THE should refer to M. Duhamel’s handy COL DU LAUTARET . ‘ Grenoble considere comme Centre M. d’Excursions Alpestres ’ (1893), or Vizille station . . 9 *Excursions dans le Dauphine,’ Vizille (town ) . . 11 issued by the ‘Syndicat dTnitiative S£chilienne . . 14 Rochetailtee -AUemont 26 de Grenoble ’ (at the office of which, 2 Rue Montorge, and corner of the La Paute -Ornon . 28^ Place Bourg d’Oisans . . 30V Grenette , the centre of the Pont St . Guillerme . 33-V town, information is readily givengratis LeFreney . . . 38 to all strangers, who may also there Le Dauphin . . 40 purchase tickets for various circular La Grave . . . 46 tours in the environs), or Joanne’s Villard d’Ar&ne . . 48 ‘ Alpes Dauphinoises,’ vol. i. (1890), Col du Lautaret . 53 and his ‘Dauphine ’ (1898). Le Lauzet . . - 55 Grenoble is an admirable centre Monetier les Bains . 59 V for excursions. That to the Grande Brianpon . . . 69 Chartreuse is described in § 10. Railway to Vizille station in about Rte. D, the ascent of Belle¬ 25 min. ; thence steam tramway to donne from Bourg d'Oisans in about 2 hrs., and Uriage in Rte. I. below, the neighbourhood of Allevard in by breaks over the col in 8%- gfa hrs. Rtes. F and G, (reverse direction, 8 hrs.) to Brianpon below, and the station (including 1 hr. halt for ascent of the Taillefer in the pre* lunch). sent Rte. But the finest mountain ascent which can be made hence in Grenoble {215 m., 705 ft,), the one day up and down (10 hrs. in all) is ancient capital of Dauphine , and the that of the Moucherotte (1,906 nw present capital of the department of 6,253 ft. ), which forms so conspicuous the Isere, as well as a fortress of the a feature in the view to the S. first class, stands on the Isere, a little St. Nizier is the best starting point above its junction with the Drac, into for the actual climb, and may be which, some way S., near Vizille, the gained by char road from Grenoble Romanche (coming from the Col du by Seyssinet, and the Tour Sans Lautaret ) has poured its muddy Venin in 3! hrs., or by a longer waters. No city in France and scarce route past Sassenage to Engins any other in Europe enjoys so fine a (9 m.), in the gorges of the same name position as Grenoble, which lies .in a (see Rte. P), whence a foot path leads plain at the meeting point of three over to St. Nizier by the Pasdii Cure great valleys, ancl is surrounded on in 1^ hr. (There are foot paths from all sides by mountains. Of these the Seyssinet which are both shorter and most conspicuous are Belledonne more picturesque than the new road.) on the E., Taillefer, with its two From St. Nizier a point W. of and be¬ humps, on the S.E., and the Moache- low the Ravix farmhouse is reachedm rotte on the S., while to the N. the ■§ hr., and by a steep path the pretty picturesquely placed fortifications ‘prairie du Volant ’ in another $ hr. climb from the ancient quarter of The path, henceforth indicated by St. Laurent (the original town) up signposts, mounts through a chimney, the heights of the Mont Rachais , the then by pastures, and finally reaches last spur of the ranges of the Grande the summit from the W. (2| hrs- Chartreuse. The city has about 64,000 from St. Nizier. ) The view includes inhabitants , and its chief manufacture the whole of the Dauphine Alps, aS is kid gloves (‘ gants Jouvin ’), while well as Mont Blanc and the Taren- ROUTE A. GRENOBLE TO BRIANCON 113 taise, while the plain of Grenoble lies intervals, and only completed by unrolled at the spectator’s feet. This Napoleon III . in 1861. It may vie excursion cannot be too highly recom¬ with the most celebrated Alpine mended. i passes in point of wild and striking As stated above Grenoble is situ* j scenery visible from the road, and for ated at the meeting point of three \ the remarkable engineering works by valleys, and these afford the easiest which the difficulties of the under¬ means of approach by three main taking have been surmounted. lines of railway (not to speak of some On leaving Grenoble the line to local branches). On the N.W. is the Vizille runs in a S. direction, parallel line to Lyons (75 m.), by which 1 for a time with the fine boulevard of Grenoble is reached from Paris in i the Cours St. Andre , to the station 12- 14 hrs. On the N.E. is that ! of Pont de Claix (5 m.), where there (3o| m.)to Montmelian (§ 10. Rte. B), j is a remarkable bridge, built in 1611, where the main line from Geneva to j from the parapets of which a fine view Turin is joined. To the S. is the ! of the surrounding mountain ranges mountain line (§ 9. Rte. Q) to Veynes may be gained. The line now turns (69 m.), whence one branch leads to S.E., and passes the junction of the Marseilles (121 m.), and another Drac and the Romanche a little before (§ 9. Rte. Q) to Gap (16 m.) and reaching the station of Vizille (9 m. Bria^ on (51 m. from Gap). It is from Grenoble). Here the railway this last-named line that 4 traveller to Veynes is quitted for the new steam must follow for a short way, if bound tramway (another leads to Uriage : for the Col du Lautaret . see Rte. I), which in 2 m. reaches The head of the valley of the the town of Vizille, after passing Durance is reached from the Italian through a narrow gorge of the side by lower and easier passes than Romanche. The old Ckdteau was ♦any which traverse the main chain much enlarged and adorned (16i0- 23) of the Alps between the Tyrol and by the famous Constable Lesdiguieres, the Mediterranean. But to reach it though a v*ng was burnt in 1865. from Grenoble it is necessary either In 1788 the tennis court in this castle to cross the Dauphine Alps, inter¬ was the scene of the great meeting of vening between the Iserc and the upper | the deputies of the Dauphine , sitting Durance, or to make a long circuit ; without distinction of ranks, who de¬ by the valley of the Drac and Gap. j manded the calling together of .the This circuit is actually made by the j Etats Generaux of Prance, and thus railway, which runs from Grenoble j took the first step towards the French over the Col de la Croix Haute and by | Revolution. The Perier family (who Gap to Brian£on (136 m. of very hilly | sold it in 1895) established in it an ground, covered in 7^- 8hrs.—Rte.Q). j extensive factory for cotton spinning, But the direct route is by the carriage ; &c., which employed 1,500 persons. road over the Col du Lautaret , de- j The tramway runs through the narrow scribed in this Rte. That Col, how- ! streets of Vizille and keeps along the ever, is considerably higher than the i right bank of the Romanche, gradu¬ Mont Genevre (by which Bria^ on is ally turning E. through a deep gorge. best reached from Turin : see § 6. In a green basin is Skhilienne (3 m. Rte. A), and is approached on the W. from the town of Vizille). side by the valley of the Romanche, [ This is the usual starting point beset with formidable obstacles to 1 for the ascent of Taillefer (2,861 m., the construction of a road. The old ! 9,387 ft.), which commands a Roman track passed along the heights most admirable view of all the above the gorges : the new road was I Dauphine Alps, small and great. begun by the great Napoleon in | A char road goes in 1 m. to St. J«o8, but constructed at irregular ; Barthilcmiy whence a mule path 114 DAUPHINE ALPS . § S. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT leads up in less than 3 hrs. to of Vizille). (For Belledonne see La Morte (1,420 m., 4,659 ft ), a Rte. I ; for the Sept Laux, Rte. G; small hamlet near which the *Societe and for the pass to La Chambre, and des Touristes du Dauphine ’ has the Grandes Rousses see Rte. E.) built a little inn for the use of travel¬ Les Sables is at the confluence of lers. Hence 4-4J hrs. are required the Olle with the Romanche, and at to reach the summit. The track the entrance to the basin or plain at mounts E. by meadows, brushwood, the further end of which is Bourg and pine forests to the upper pastures, d'Oisans, 4J m. distant past the and gains the Pravourey lake. A bad station of La Paute -Ornon (see pathnstrikes across rocky slopes to the above for Taillefer, and for the Col deserted mine of Bronffier, easily d’Ornon § 9. Rte. N). This plain found, owing to its yellow colour. A was the scene of one of the most ridge is crossed to the Emay ravine remarkable geological catastrophes (here falls in the way from Lavaldens : the history of which has been pre¬ see § 9. Rte. N. b), the ridge on the 1. served by authentic records. In the (or E.) side of which is climbed by course of the twelfth century a terrific stones and snow to the top of the bergfall from the Vaudaine, a great peak. It is perfectly easy to go spur of Belledonne which encloses straight down from the depression the Combe de Gavet on the N. side, between the two summits (£ hr. from completely barred the course of the the higher) by snow and a stony Romanche, which rose to such a couloir to the picturesque, lake- height that the plain on which Bourg dotted pasture plateau on the N. of d’Oisans and other villages now stand Taillefer (there is a pretty mule path was converted into .a large lake, from the Poursollet lake to Gavet, in known as the Lac de St. Laurent, the Romanche valley). The smaller more than 30 ft. deep. Villages and lakes can be gained in less than an farms with a large part of the popula¬ hour from the depression (under tion utterly disappeared, and the favourable circumstances,), and thence survivors gained a subsistence by paths on either side of the torrent fishing on the site of their former (those on the 1. bank are shorter dwellings. This state of things con¬ but steeper) lead down in i £_i£ hr. tinued until the night of September to the village of Ornon, a little above 14- 15, 1219, when the barrier gave the hamlet of La Palud , which is m. way, and the pent-up waters, sud¬ by char road (coming from the Col denly set free, swept with fearful d’Ornon : see § 9. Rte. N) from violence down the valley. Of the Bourg d’Oisans, or the steam tramway villages near the valley not a trace from Vizille can be taken half way at remained, and the inundation reached the station of La Paute -Ornon.] even to Grenoble, where crowds 01 (For the track from Sechilienne to fugitives, stopped in their flight bya Premol see Rte. I.) gate over the stone bridge, were The valley now contracts between carried off by the flood. The present Taillefer and the spurs of Belledonne, fertility of the plain of Bourg d’Oisans, and runs in a N.E. direction. and the transported blocks which The gorge is called the Combe de are scattered over the valley of the Gavet, and the hamlets of Gavet, Romanche about Vizille, owe their Rionperoux, and Livet (for the way origin to this catastrophe, nl0re hence to Chanrousse see Rte. I). enduring in its effects than the storms The wild torrent of Vaudaine is of war which have repeatedly swept crossed, and at the end of the long over the same district. gorge the valley opens out at Les Bourg d’Oisans is a small country Sables, where is the station of Roche- town (729m., 2,392 ft.)agreeably situ¬ of the taillR -Allemont (15 m. from the town ated, with a view of the opening ROUTE A. GRENOBLE TO BRIANiJON n5
Combe de Malaval to the S.E., and Bourg d’Oisans this direction is again of the valley of the Veneon to the S. changed by the great ridge extending The neighbouring mountains are rich W. from the Meije. The road on in minerals, especially the mines of leaving Bourg d’Oisans crosses to the Chalanches, near Allemont (see Rte. r. bank of the Romanche and runs E). Bourgd’Oisans is generally made S.E. along that bank, through an the starting point for the valley of avenue of poplars, over a nearly level the Veneon (§ 9. Rte. A), and for the reach of richly cultivated country, Col du Lautaret to Briancon (see enclosed between mountains of mo¬ below). derate height, till it regains the 1. bank [ Pleasant excursions may be made (3 m.) by the Pont St. Guillerme. hence to the villages of Villard (Here turns off the char road up the Eymond and Villard Raymond, Veneon valley towards La Berarde, lying on a great grassy shelf above § 9. Rte. A. ) Between this point and the precipices which overshadow Le Freney the valley of the Romanche Bourgd’Oisans on the W. and S.W., is contracted to a mere defile, en¬ and also to the Plateau de Brandes closed between vertical rocks of on the E. (gained in 2\ hrs. by way gneiss. The river has cut for itself of La Garde and Huez), where are a channel at a great depth below the extensive remains of buildings attri¬ level of the road, which is carried buted to the Romans. The guide will along the 1. bank, sometimes on point out the site of many mines, now ledges cut into the rock, sometimes abandoned,and higher up considerable supported on terraces of masonry, and deposits of anthracite. Rather more in one spot carried through a tunnel than 1 hr. above Brandes is the Lac 180 m. (591 ft. ) in length. This is Blanc, one of the highest lakes, for the gorge of Inferney , or Malaval , its dimensions, in the Alps. It is and is the finest bit of the road. O11 nearly a m. long, and no yards issuing from it a green basin is wide. On its N.E. shore are seen reached, in which stands Le Freney, the traces of ancient mining works, 7-J m. from Bourgd ’Oisans. (For the and the remains of a paved road, con¬ Col des Pres Nouveaux hence to St. structed at some early period for Jean de Maurienne see Rte. D. 1, and the use of the miners. It is in some for the Col de l’Alpe in the opposite places either covered over or carried direction to Venose, in the Veneon away by the moraines of existing valley, see § 9. Rte. C. 1. ) Another glaciers. It is easy to pass from the narrow gorge is traversed before lake between the Petites Rousses and passing the miserable houses of Le the main chain of the Grandes Rous¬ Dauphin , standing in the midst of ses along the upper of the two Rousses huge fragments of fallen rock. The terraces mentioned in Rte. E to the cliffs forming the S. wall of the valley yi tin Couard (3 hrs.), or to descend are crowned by the great Glacier du horn the Fare lake to the Fare Club Mont de Lans >the largest in Dauphine , ™t (20 min.) That Club hut (be¬ and projecting portions of its frozen longing to the S.T.D.), whence the mass are seen through the ravines various summits of the Grandes that open into the Combe. At Le Rousses chain are accessible (see Dauphin the road crosses to the r. K>’ is best reached from Bourg bank , and soon after passes the fine d Oisans in 4-’- hrs. by La Garde, waterfall of La Pisse, which comes Huez, the Alpe huts, the lower down from a height of 200 m. (656 ace terrace, and the Carrelet lake.3 ft.) The Romanche flows through At Les Sables the range coming a deep and gloomy ravine, the Combe down from Belledonne has turned the de Malaval , which sometimes opens course of the Romanche at right angles a little, and exhibits, in wild con¬ 0 Us previous direction. Beyond fusion, huge masses of ' rock torn n6 DAUPHINE ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT down from the crags above ; at other descending to the Lac Noir Club hut times the precipices approach more (3 hrs.), whence Le Freney or St. nearly together , and the glacier Christophe can be gained. streams that reach their verge spring The chief belvederes around La from a considerable height into the Grave are the Aiguille du Goleon} chasm through which the road is 3,429 m., 11,251 ft. (5 hrs. by carried. The finest is that of La the S.E. face or arete), and the Pisse, mentioned above ; another , Pic des Trois Eveches^ 3,120m., the Sant de la Pncelle, or des Ereaux , 10,237 ft. (4 hrs. by the N.E. falling 80 m. (262 ft. ), is nearer La ridge) ; both are on the N. side of the Grave, and just beyond some exten¬ valley, and command superb views of sive lead mines, now no longer the Meije group opposite. The worked. Soon after (15^ m. from Bee de VHomme, 3,457 m., 11,342 ft. Bourg d’Oisans) the road turns a (5 hrs.), affords a nearer sight of that corner and enters the village of La wonderful group, but if the projected Grave (1,526 m., 5,007 ft.), the Club hut at the Rocher de l’Aigle houses of which are huddled together (4 hrs. from La Grave), at the S. foot on a steep slope N. of the high road. of the Bee, is built it is almosta La Grave is placed in the midst pity not to climb the very beautiful of very grand Alpine scenery. Just and not difficult- E . Summit of the opposite rises the Meije (3,987 Meije (3,9x1 m., 12,832 ft.), acces¬ m., 13,081 ft., the second peak sible in 2^- 3 hrs., according to the in the district ), streaming with state of the snow, whence the sudden glaciers, above which towers the sight of the Central Summit of the grim black final ridge. The view Meije is overwhelming, and one is one of the finest to be obtained understands why the Monetier folk from a road in the Alps, as the call it cLe Doigt de Dieu.5 Thu- glaciers and peaks are close at hand, Central Summit (3,970m., l3,02 5/t') and is said to be equalled only by can be gained in rather less time that from the Stelvio. from the Club hut , but is harder asa [ La Grave is one of the best climb than the E. Summit. From it centres in the district for a stay the traveller can marvel at the long of some days. Besides the excursions jagged ridge which connects it with to the foot of the glacier coming the IV. and highest Summit (3>9^7®•’ down from the Breche de la Meije 13,081 ft. ), and admire the audacity (just W. of the Meije), I hr., and of Herren O. and E. Zsigmondyand to the Plateau de Paris (on L. Purtscheller, who were the first which there is now a small inn), (and that without guides) to forceH on the N. side of the valley (2 hrs. ), in 1885. This route has since become to enjoy the view of the Meije (far better known, and is now frequently better seen from a height above the traversed every summer, 2J-4 Vs' village than from the village itself), it being required. Another attraction is worth while visiting two little at La Grave to the climber is the mountain inns : one is near the Puy S. Aiguille d Ai 'ves, which is thence Vachier lake, on the way to the Col reached in 7 hrs. or so by way of the de la Lauze (§ 9. Rte. C. 2), and the Col Lombard (Rte. B. 3)- (^orthe other at Alfie, on the way to the Col numerous passes from La Grave see du Clot des Cavales (§ 9. Rte. C. 4. ), Rtes. B and C for those to the h *1 each about 3 hrs. off. A delightful and § 9. Rtes. C and TI, for those 0 expedition is to go on from the the S. For the alternative route to former in 2\ hrs. to the Col de la Monetier by the Col
Aiguilles d’Arves are the principal I numberless streams in which must be features. The height of the pass is ! crossed as soon as possible to the r. 2,658 m., 8,721 ft., and the road is bank . In this way the edge of a steep the highest in Europe save that over descent into the lower glen is gained the Stelvio (2,760 .in. , 9,055 ft. ) (£ hr.), and a path leads down into that The descent on the other side by a glen , which in early summer is one fresh series of zigzags is far shorter mass of narcissi and June lilies . After than the ascent has been . At the the lirst hamlet , Pramelier , is passed Ilandette huts pedestrians can strike (1 hr. ), La Grave may be reached by S.W . across the pastures direct to the either side of the glen , the path on Hospice . The road goes down to the r. bank gradually becoming a that of the Lautaret , and then mounts char road long before La Grave is slightly to the Hospice , 6 m. from the attained (f hr. ) Col . A fast walker can go in 4 hrs. 3. By the Col des Aiguilles d’Arves from Valloire to the Hospice , but (6 hrs. ), and the Col Lombard (6 hrs.) 5 are amply sufficient . Many of the — This route requires two days from rarest plants in the Alps are found on Valloire , the intervening night being the S. slope of the pass, which is spent in the chalets of Rieublanc, really the continuation of the famous where strangers are most hospit¬ pastures of the Col du Lautaret . ably entertained . It passes through 2. By the Col du Oroleon(foot path in very grand scenery , and is strongly 6J- 7 hrs. from Valloire to La Grave ). recommended to all mountaineers From Valloire the Galibier road is bound from Valloire to La Grave, as followed for i -J hr. till the second j they can climb any of the Aiguilles cross , marking a branch path to d'Arves on the way . Bonnenuit , is reached . The Goleon The Galibier road is followed for route descends into the Losettes glen , £ hr. to the hamlet of La Ravine. and goes up it in order to gain by a The bridge is not crossed , but the steep ascent the Losettes huts (1 hr.) path along the 1. bank of the Val- Care must now be taken to turn loirette followed till it passes above sharp IK up the glen just beyond a knoll , huts . the seen from afar, and then turns up the Combe des Aiguilles on CBy keeping up the glen which the W . This glen is mounted by a opens to the S. the Pic des Trois path above the 1. bank of the torrent, Eveches (3, 120 m. , 10,237 ft. ) may : care being taken to keep up the more be ascended in 3 hrs. by the N .K. j southerly of the two arms into which ar£te, the glorious view from the i the glen is divided by the great spur summit enjoyed , and the descent ! from the Aiguille del ’Epaisseur . In this made from the same ridge to the way by pastures and stones the head Goleon track at the edge of the steep of the glen , at the foot of the three descent to be mentioned below .] Aiguilles d’Arves , is attained , 3^ hrs. This glen hears gradually N .W .,and from Valloire . a zigzag path up shale slopes brings [ Hence the Col des Trois Pointer the traveller to the Col (2,880 m., (3, 150 m., 10,335 ft.) leads in 3 hrs. 9,449 ft. ) in 4 hrs. from Valloire . It across the ridge just N .W . of the is the lowest point in a ridge of con¬ Pointe de l’Argentiere (3,240 ni.» torted shale and commands a view of 10,630 ft. ) direct to the first ph'11 great magnificence , which may be below the Glacier Lombard , while very much extended by following the from the head of the glen it is also easy ar£le to the N .W . to the top of 1 possible to climb direct by the Gros the Pointe de PArgentine (3,240 m. , j Jean gl . and gullies in very steep 10,630 ft. ), in hr. from the Col . i rocks to the base of the difficult bit A steep slope of shale and grass leads j on the S. Aiguille d’Arves .] down to a large marshy plain , the j Debris slopes and a short easy g1- ROUTE B. AIGUILLES D’ARVES 121 enable the traveller to gain in I hr. ters than those of La Saussaz, Ahr. more the Col des Aiguilles d’Arves lower. (For the path hence to St. Jean (3,200 m., 10,499 ft.), between the d’Arves see Rte. C. 1.) The first party Central and N. Aiguilles d’Arves : it (Mr. Moore’s) went next day from was first crossed in 1864 by Messrs. the La Saussaz. huts to La Grave over A. W. Moore, H. Walker , and E. the peak now known as the S. Whymper, the first foreigners to Aiguille de la Saussaz (3,315 m., explore this splendid group. (The 10,876 ft.), just above the Col de gap between the Central and S. Martignare. A far better route has Aiguilled’Arves, or Col de Gr&sJean , been struck out by later explorers in has only once been traversed, the the Col Lombard. This pass is just cliffs on this side of the pass present¬ S.W. of the S. Aiguille d’Arves, and ing considerabledifficulties.) is gained from La Saussaz in 2\ hrs. by t rt is one of the greatest surprises in bearing S.E. up pastures, a shale Alpine history to find how long the three ridge, and a great snow slope. Its noble rock pinnacles of the Aiguilles height is about 3, 100 m. (10, 171 ft.) d’Arves were ignored by maps, and EF rom here starts the best route neglected by travellers. It is only in yet discovered up the S. Aiguille the very latest issues of the great dlArves (3,509 m., 11,513 ft.), the French map that they are even proudest of the three sisters. It is named, though they are spoken of necessary to gain the crest of the in the ‘Philosophical Transactions ’ S.E. arete by one of the small gullies as far back as 1791. The relative close under the S. face of the peak. height of the two loftiest peaks is A rock ledge soon leads to the base still uncertain, but the difference be¬ of the very difficult, though short tween them does not exceed 3- 6 ft. (c. 15 ft. ), mawuaispas by which the The Central Aiguille was first rock rampart surrounding the peak climbed in 1839 by three St. Michel can be pierced, and so the upper hunters, whose ascent remained un¬ slopes gained. It requires some known to history till 1878, while the good climbing to overcome this Southern Aiguille was only con¬ obstacle, after which the roof-like quered in 1878 by Mr. Coolidge, ridge which forms the summit is who, with Miss Brevoort, had in 1873 easily reached (iJ - 2 hrs. from the reached the lower peak of the N. Col Lombard). If the traveller do Aiguille, and had in 1874 made the not care to attempt this hard ascent second ascent of the Central Aiguille. he should not fail to cross the Lom¬ From the Col des Aiguillesd’Arves bard gl., and scale the steep though there is a fine view to the W. over easy shale or snow slopes or ridges the valley of the Arvan and its (many possible routes) which give mountains. But no climber should access to the great cairn on the wnit to ascend in hrs. the Ce??tral Aiguille du Coleon, 3,429 m., Aiguille (3,511 m., 10,520 ft.) by 11,251 ft. (1.$ hr.) The panorama way of its N.E. and S.E. rock faces, which rewards the slight effort of the 0r at least the higher point of the ascent is one of the finest in Ar. Aiguille, 3,330 m., 10,926 ft. Dauphin^.] (1 hr.), by the notch between the two From the Col Lombard, shale, the horns and then by very steep rocks gl. (near the foot of which is the on its W. face.] Lyon Republicain Club liut , 2,400 The Rieublanc huts are at the W. m., 7,874 ft.), and a marshy plain foot of the Col, and are best gained lead to the Col du Go!<£on route, thence by a gully to the N. of the joined on the second marshy plain, 8reat central couloir in the steep rock and followed henceforth to La Grave wall, and so by stones and grass, in (3J- 4 hrs. or less from the Col *2 hr. They afford better night quar¬ Lombard ). 122 DAUPIIINE ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT
by an ill-marked foot path, which Route C. crosses and recrosses the torrent several times. 'There is at least one I.A GRAVE TO ST . JEAN DE MAURIENNE . pretty green basin on the way, while the Palcre precipice, on the E. side There are at least three main passes of the gorge, is striking. By one or over the ridge which extends from other route Entraigues is gained in the Aiguilles d’Arves to the Col des about 2-J hrs. from La Saussaz. The Pres Nouveaux. They all descend traveller can now mount to St. Jean into the Arvette glen (or Combe d’Arves, and then cross the grassy Froide ), which comes from the W. Col d’Arves (Rte. D. 1) to St. Jean base of the Aiguilles d’Arves, and de Matirieune , or may follow the new soon turns due N., joining the Arvan char road direct through the Arvan valley at Entraigues , below St. Jean valley to the same place, reached in d’Arves. The most easterly of these 3 or 4 hrs. passes, the Col Lombard , was de¬ 2. By the Col de l’lnfernet scribed in the preceding Rte., for it (ioj - ii hrs. ) is better adapted for a traveller The ascent begins directly behind coming from Valloire to La Grave La Grave, and leads to Les Terrasses, by the high level route than as a way whence the path bears N.W. to Le to St. Jean de Maurienne. The Chazelet. The route overlooks the two other passes are not quite as long, stream, which, falling over a granite but are both fatiguing and not very ledge, forms the beautiful waterfall interesting, though of course they of Les Breaux (Rte. A). This command fine views of the Meije, stream intersects the junction of the just opposite. granite with the overlying strata of i. By ike Col de Martignare Jurassic limestone. The mule path (11—12 hrs.) mounts along the left bank of the From La Grave a very stony Bitffe torrent , through many groups ascent leads to a grassy depres¬ of chalets, but the glen is bare and sion just N.E. of the last hump on uninteresting. The final ascent is up the long ridge stretching S. from disintegrated slate slopes, with not the Aiguille du 'Goleon : the track unfrequently large patches of snow. then winds along the mountain slopes The pass (2,690 m., 8,826 ft.) is on the W. side of that ridge in a N. attained in 4J hrs. from La Grave. direction, keeping high above the On the other side snow slopes, steep left bank of the torrent in the Mar¬ shale, and grass bring the traveller to tignare glen. It approaches the the highest huts, those of the Pri des stream before gaining the pass, Bruns (1 hr. ) The mule path starts 2,6oo m., 8,531 ft. (4 hrs.) The again here, and leads by zigzags descent from the shaly ridge leads at down into the Arvette glen at the first into a basin or ravine, whence it point where it turns N. (■£ hr.h is necessary to 'mount in order to gain whence that glen is followed to a great grassy promontory on the Entraigues (1^ hr. ) From this ham¬ right, from which a zigzag path leads let one or other of the two alternative down to the Arvette glen, near the routes given under 1 is followed to La Saussaz huts (i £ hr. ) Hence St. Jean de Maurienne {3-4 hrs.) there is a mule path which mounts to An active walker can make a the Bieublanch \\X.s, and then wanders pleasant variation on this route by N.W. over pastures till it descends to bearing to the N.W. from the upper Le Vallonet, a good way lower down portion of the Buffe glen and gaining the Arvette glen. It is shorter, the S. ridge of the Pic du Mas de la though rougher, to go from the La Grave (3,023 m., 9,918 ft.), Saussaz huts down that glen direct highest summit between the Aiguille ROUTE D. LE FRENEY TO ST. JEAN DE MAURIENNE 123 du Goleon and the Cinie des des Pres Nouveaux, the left-hand N. to Clavans for the Col Torches. It may be attained in branch due about ij- hr. from the Ruffe glen des Quirlies. or the ruined hut near the Col 1. By the Col des Pr6s Nouveaux . road crosses to the left bank (or 5 hrs. from La Grave). There The char is no difficulty in descending E. of the Ferrand , and by several zigzags or N., then bearing N.W., and mounts to Besse (20 min. ) Hence gaining the Pres Nouveaux ridge by a the mule path mounts at first to the track which passes that ridge some N. up pastures to a narrow promon¬ way E. of that Col (Rte. D. 1), the tory, along the W. side of which it usual path over which is joined at runs high above the Valettc torrent , huts (i-J hr. or so). which is gradually approached and the highest crossed before the last chalet is reached. Thence less than -J- hr.’s ascent by zigzags suffices to gain the Col des Pres Nouveaux , 2,293 m*> 7.523 ft- (3s—4 hrs. from Besse), a Route D . pass quite enclosed by higher moun¬ tains on all sides and commanding There are some BOURG D’oiSANS TO ST. JEAN DE no distant view. MAURIENNE . huts on the Col itself, and the pastures on both sides are of extra¬ or Clavans d'en Char road to Besse ordinary luxuriance, owing, no doubt, Haut ; thence mule path (or snow)to the rapid disintegration of the St. Jean d’Arves, whence another to rock, a fissile argillaceous rock. The char road descends to the Arc valley. hrs. by the descent is at first gentle, but then From Le Freney down Col des Pr<5s Nouveaux; io£ hrs. by come steep zigzags which wind the Col des Quirlies. shale slopes to the highest chalets in the Arvan valley (-| hr. ) From this A direct line drawn from Bourg point it is quite possible to follow the d’Oisans to St. Jean de Maurienne pasture valley of the Arvan due N., would traverse the mass of the and on reaching St. Sorlin d’Arves to Grandes Rousses. To avoid this turn S.E. to St. Jean d’Arves. But it formidable obstacle (which can be is in every way better to follow from overcome by active climbers : see the chalets just mentioned a good Rte.^E) it is necessary to make a mule path which rises gently over considerable detour, for the easiest grassy slopes to the pretty Col route lies on the E. of the Grandes d’Onion (<\ 2,000 m., 6,562 ft.), Rousses chain. leading over the ridge which com¬ Rhe high road to Brian^on (Rte. pels the Arvan to make this great -M is followed for 8 m. until a little loop. The path descends along the above Le Freney a stone bridge left side of a grassy glen to Chambony crosses the Romanche just beyond where the Arvan is crossed, and a lts junction with the Ferrand . The further ascent leads to the hamlet of char road ascends steeply by zigzags La Tour, the principal hamlet (most to Mizoen' , 1,206m., 3,957 ft. (| hr.), beautifully situated on an upland which commands a fine view of the shelf of pastures, with glorious Combe de Malaval. It then gradually views) of the wealthy commune of descends to and crosses the Fe^ and, St. Jean dArvcs (2 hrs. from the which runs in a deep gorge, at the highest huts). Another mule path end of which (1J- 1-J hr. from Le leads up in less than £ hr. to the low rreney ), at the foot of a steep bluff, Col d’Arves (1,754 m., 5,755 ft.), bifurcates. The branch to the with a fine view of the Grandes nght goes N.E. to Besse for the Col Rousses and the Aiguilles d’Arves. 124 DAUPHIN ]? ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT It descends on the other side to the last chalet, whence grassy and Fontcotiverte, whence there is a char stony slopes lead in a N.W. direction road down to St. Jean de Maurienne to the considerable Quirlies gl. This (2J hrs. from the Col d’Arves). In presents no difficulty, and is mounted 1895 a char road was opened from to the wide opening of the Col des St. Jean d’Arves, which descends to Quirlies, 2,950 m., 9,679 ft. (4 hrs. Entraigues , and then follows the from Clavans d’en Haut .) lower portion of the Arvan valley to The pass is nearly on a level with the St. Jean de Maurienne direct. great snow fields of the St. Sorting 1., The Col de la Valette, or Col on which the Col de la Cochette route Perrant (2,250 m., 7,382 ft.), is a (Rte. E ) is soon joined, and followed mere variation of the route just de¬ to St. Jean d’Arves (3J hrs.) The chief scribed. From the last hut on the use of the Col is to afford access from Besse side of the Pres Nouveaux keep Clavans to the usual route up the N. to the 1. up the Grand Sauvage glen, Summit of the Grandes Rousses(see and gain the ridge some way N.W. Rte. E ) ; but it may be used simply of the Pres Nouveaux, descending by as a pass, and with it may be com¬ the Aigues Rousses huts to the bined the ascent (1hr. )of the Cimedu highest chalets in the Arvan glen, Grand Sauvage (3,229m., 10,594 ft.), where the Pres Nouveaux route is on its E., whence a very striking rejoined. The Col de VAgnelin view of the Grandes Rousses is ob¬ (2,875 m-> 9.433 ft-) is a most tained. A traveller bound from Cla¬ circuitous route, which leaves the vans for the South Summit of the Pres Nouveaux track on the narrow Grandes Rousses should bear to the promontory mentioned above, and N.W. before the waterfall, and keep winds in very intricate fashion through up the pastures high above the right several ravines till the pass is gained bank of the Ferrand , thus gaining just at the S.E. foot of the Cime des the Grand Sablat gl. The icefall of Torches, 2,957 9,702 ft. (acces¬ this glacier is not, however, practicable sible in 20 min.) The descent is under all circumstances, and in that made by a lateral glen to the Arvette case it would be best to go to the ravine at Le Vallonet‘, where the Col Quirlies gl. (as above), and from its de Martignare route (Rte. C. 1) is S. bit climb up to the Col du Grand joined and followed to Entraigues . Sablat, on the S.E. ridge of the de¬ This pass is not recommended save to sired peak, between it and the Mont those who like devious ways. Savoyat ; or if preferred it is quite 2. By the Col des Quirlies . By possible to gain the Mont Savoyat keeping up the l.-hand road at the (3,340 m., 10,959 ft-) by ft? S--1?' bifurcation the traveller in a few arete, and to simply follow the ridge m minutes gains the upper portion of the same direction to the S. Summit. the Ferrand valley, and passing by Clavans soon after reaches the village of Clavans d’en Haut (1,394 m., 4,574 ft. ), -| - £ hr. from the bifurca¬ tion, which has a fair inn, and is the best headquarters in these parts. The Route E . char road continues for a short dis¬ tance further, but comes to an end BOURG D’OISANS TO LA CHAMBKE - before the traveller arrives at the foot ASCENT OF THE GRANDES ROUSSES. of a fine waterfall of the Ferrand . Steam tramway to Rochetaill^e ; char Zigzags lead up the slopes on the E. road to Rivicr d’Allemont, or Vau- side of the fall, and thus the upper¬ jany ; thence mule path or foot path most bit of the Ferrand glen is to St. Colomban desVillards, whence attained . The mule path continues to a char road leads to La Chambre. ROUTE E. BOURG D’OISANS TO LA CHAMBRE 125
valley, io§- n £hrs. mountain slopes W. of and 1,200 m. njhrs . by the Olle . They by Vaujany. (3,937 ft. ) above the village may be reached in 2.\ hrs., and can¬ the distance in a direct not fail to interest the mineralogist. Although gold, silver, line from Bourg d’Oisans to La On this single mountain greater than that to St. mercury, nickel, cobalt, copper, zinc, Chambre is have de Maurienne (described in the iron, manganese, and antimony Jean combined, be¬ preceding Rte.) the way is not much been found variously . sides beds of anthracite .] longer, and certainly less laborious the char road con¬ The track crosses the Col du Glandon. From Allemont , soon crossing This pass is most easily reached by tinues up the Olle valley course of to the 1. bank, and recrossing to the r. following the very winding , the Olle torrent , but there are two bank, after traversing the Flumet Vaujany. The short cuts by the Cols du Sabot and coming down from valley runs due N. for 2 hrs. to du Couard. A guide is scarcely re¬ diAllemont the Olle the hamlet of Rivier quired for the way through stands it might be difficult for a (1,280 m., 4,200 ft.), which valley, but several hundred feet above the stream. stranger to find the short cuts without assistance. The scenery is rich and pleasing, with surrounding From Bourg d’Oisans the new some fine views of the (Rte. A) should be mountains. Above Rivier (here the steam tramway off— . (4-J m.) as far as the track to the Sept Laux turns taken for 20 min Olle bends to Rochetaillie-Allemont station, at Les Rte. G) the Combe d’ Sables, close to the confluence of the the E., and the scenery becomes Romanche and the Olle. Thence a wilder. The mule path descends to char road crosses first the Romanche the level of the Olle, and, passing Sables, soon the Olle close to the fine waterfall, enters the by the Pont des of the Pont de Perniere , and then very narrow and picturesque gorge by end, the runs along the r. bank of the Olle Maupas . At the further village of Allemont , Grande Matson, a large chalet, used to the large , is 2,625 ft*0 br-) This over¬ by the Provenqal shepherds 800m., is in a small looks the hamlet of La Fonderie, and reached (2^ hrs. ) This by the ruined pasture basin, and opposite the junc¬ is itself overlooked tion of the Olle with the Cochelte castle of Rockechinard, which com¬ which descends N.W. from mands a magnificent view of the torrent , of the Grandes Rousses and the Grandes Rousses. (Here fall in glaciers du Sabot and mountains. the tracks over the Cols the other neighbouring main (For the ascent of Belledonne from the du Couard : see below.) The , see Rte. I ; valley here turns N. E., and becomes Club hut, 3 hrs. distant of the Fare Club hut , much broader, and one long series for the way to torrents 4 hrs. distant, see below ; and for pasturages. Many tributary (The first on the r. bank the excursion to the Sept Laux, are passed. the is the Lanne , and leads up to the Rte. G.) The ranges enclosing at valley above Allemont are extra¬ Col de PAgnclin, by which the inn be reached in ordinarily rich in metallic ores, which, the Sept Laux may from the Grande Maison.) elsewhere, are rarely or never found 4 hrs. together. Neither the iron works nor Some way beyond the path passes Matsons or Riou the silver mines are now, however, below the Quatre worked, whether from the inherent Claret chalets (hence the Rocher the undertaking or from Blanc or the Rochers de PArgentiere difficulties of Rtes. Gand H ). want of capital and skill in the can be ascended : see management. 11 hr. above the Grande Maison the du [ The silver mines of Chalanches, path gains the last huts (Plan valley, close to the discovered in 1767, are situated on the Seuil ) in the Olle 126 DAUPHINE ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT junction of the two torrents which valley of the Arc is gained about 1m. make up the Olle. One of these above La Chambre (§ 7. Rte. A), descends from a wild glen, the Combe which is thus about 4 hrs. from the de Bramant , containing a succession Col, or nf hrs. from Bourgd’Oisans. of small lakes, of which the highest A glance at the map will show lies at the N. end of the chain of the that the valley of the Olle between Grandes Rousses : through it, or the Allemont and the Col du Glan¬ ravine of the Rif Blanc, rather further don describes a wide curve, and W., the great gl. of St. Sorlin can be thereby involves a long detour. attained from the Olle valley in about Hence there are several short cuts, 5 hrs. The other arm of the Olle which pass by the village of Vaujany. valley leads in 20 min. nearly due Vaujany may be reached from Alle¬ E. to the Col de la Croix de Fer mont in if hr. either direct by a char (2,062 m., 6,765 ft.), whence it is road (5 m.) which quits that up if hr. to St. Jean d’Arves, on the the Olle valley after it has crossed route from Bourg d’Oisans to St. the Flumet , or by another on the 1. Jean de Maurienne, described in the bank of the Flumet past Oz, a preceding Rte. (This course might be hamlet surmounted by the remains taken to St. Jean de Maurienne, but of an ancient stronghold. Vaujany it is much more circuitous than that (1,253 m., 4, 111 ft.) lies in the by the Col ‘des Pres Nouveaux, save Flumet glen, and 25 min. higher is for travellers coming from Allevard La Villette, at the junction of the or the Sept Laux.) two streams which join to form the The path to La Chambre quits Flumet. By keeping up the N. that of the Croix de Fer about 5 branch the Col du Sabot (2, 100 m., min. beyond the last chalets, and 6,890 ft.) is gained in 1 hr., and the turning to the N.E , mounts in Grande Maison in 40 min. more. If f hr. to the huts of Plan du Col, the N.E. branch be followed, the on the Col du Glandon (1,951 m., Col du Couard (2,130 m., 6,989 ft.) 6,401 ft. ), which is at the head of is attained in less than if hr., and a lateral glen, the Combe dti Glandon, then by the Cochette ravine the or des Villards, descending in a Grande Maison in a long hour more. nearly straight line to the valley Thus by the Sabot the distance from of the Arc. By the route we have Allemont to the Grande Maison is just described the Col is about 2 hrs. 3f hrs., and by the Couard 45- 4-}hrs., from the Grande Maison, or 7J hrs. while the round through the Olle from Bourg d’Oisans. There is a valley takes 4} hrs. pretty view from the Col, looking Ascent of the Grandes Rousses. down this glen towards the moun¬ Between the valley of the Olle and tains above Moutiers, in the Taren - those of the Ferrand and Arvan (sec taise. The descent by zigzags is at Rte. D) rises the considerable snow- first rather rapid, and then becomes clad mass of the Grandes Pousses, more gentle, following first one, then which extends about 6 m. from the other, bank of the torrent , and S.S.W. to N.N.E. It forms a long passing many chalets in rich pastures. ridge crowned by several peaks, the On the 1. several glens lead to the two highest being in the centre, and passes to Allevard described in Rte. II . said to be both of exactly equal About if hr. from the Col the large height (3,473 m., 11,395 ft-) On village of Si. Colomban des Villards is the W. side numerous short ana reached, whence a char road leads in steep glaciers are drained by torrents 7 rn, to La Chambre. f hr. below which, after forming two series of St. Colomban is the first of the scat¬ small lakes on two successive rocky tered hamlets that make up the com¬ terraces (called Petites—the higher— mune of Si. Alban des Villards. The and Balmes Pousses espectively)> ROUTE E. ASCENT OF THE GRANDES ROUSSES 127 flow into the Olle through steep which may also be gained in 2 hrs. ravines. On this side the best from the Rousses gl. by mount¬ starting point is the Fare Club hut . ing the rocky N.W. spur. The On the E. side the glaciers are larger panorama which is thence obtained is and less inclined, those of St. Soriin extremely extensive, and the excur¬ and Sarennes at the N. and S. ends sion is most highly to be recom¬ being very extensive snowfields. mended. It is, of course, easy to The St. Soriin glacier feeds the main descend from the Col across the branch of the Arvan ; those of St. Soriin gl. in a slightly N.E. Quirlies and Grand Sablat pour their direction to the Aigues Rousses huts streams into the Ferrand (which (2 hrs. or less), whence a path goes unites with the Romanche at Le down to the head of the Arvan glen, Freney), while that of Sarennes and reascends the opposite slope to sends forth a torrent which soon the grassy Cold 'Ornon (c. 2,000 m., bends sharply to the W., and joins 6,562 ft.—see Rte. D. 1) ; a second the Romanche opposite Bourg descent to the Arvan (which makes d’Oisans. Clavans d 'en Haut , in the a huge loop), followed by a second Ferrand glen, and the Aigues Rousses ascent, brings the traveller to St. huts, at the head of that of the Arvan, Jean d’Arves in 2J hrs. from Aigues are the best starting points on the E. Rousses. side of the range (see Rte. I)). The S. Summit (sometimes called Three principal passes traverse this Pic Bayle) was first attained in 1874 chain—the Col de la Pyramide (to by M. Bayle, the cure of Oz. From the S. of the S. Summit) to the the Club hut it is best reached by Sarennes gl., the Brhke des way either of the Col de la Pyramids Grandes Rousses(between the S. and (c. 3>38o m., 11,090 ft. ) or of the N. Summits) to the Quirlies glacier, Breche des Grandes Rousses. The and the Col de la Cochette (N. of the former Col (whence Bourg d’Oisans N. Summit) to the St. Soriin gl. may be reached by the Grand Sablat On the E. side the lateral passes of and Sarennes gls. ) is easily gained the Col du Grand Sablat and the Col in 2J hrs. from the Club hut by snow des Quirlies cross the ridges thrown slopes, and the peak by the easy out by the main chain. snow slopes of the Grand Sablat The N. Summit (locally called gl. in ^ hr. more. The Brhche PEtendard ) was first climbed in des Grandes Rousses (c. 3,100 m., 1863 by Prof. Bonney and Messrs. 10,171 ft.) can be gained without W. and G. S. Mathews, who started difficulty in about 3 hrs. from the from the highest hut in the Cochette Club hut (the descent to the Quirlies glen and ascended by the rocky N. gl. is not easy, owing to a short but face. It is now usual to start from very steep icefall), whence the N. the Fare Club Hut (belonging to ar€te, rocky at first, then snowy, the S.T.D.), 2,216 m., 7,321 ft., leads to the summit in hr. more. which lies rather above the lower A very fine expedition, recom¬ htke terrace, and may be gained mended to active mountaineers, is to from AUemont in 4 hrs. by way of ascend the S. Summit from the Club Oz and the Carrelet lake. Thence hut by the Col de la Pyramide, as the upper lake terrace is reached, described above, then to go down by and a N.E. direction kept till the the ridge to the Breche des Grandes col de la Cochette (f. 3,100 m., Rousses, and to remount by the 1 171ft.), on the K., can be attained difficult rocky S. arete of the peak by the Rousses gl. and a steep in 3 hrs. to the N. Summit, and rocky^wall (3 hrs.) Hence the reach St. Jean d’Arves by the Col de N. ar£te or the N.E. snow slope is la Cochette route. If it is desired climbed to the summit (40 min. ), to avoid the hard S. arete of the N. 128 DAUPHIN ^ ALPS , g 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT
Summit (hitherto climbed but once, by dreds of visitors. In composition and Mr. Coolidge, in 1887) it is easy to qualities they are said to resemble those descend from the Col du Grand of Eaux Bonnes, in the Pyrenees. Sablat (just S.E. of the S. Summit) Allevard, no doubt, owes much of to the Quirlies gl., to traverse both its attraction to the beauty of its branches of it in a N. direction, and scenery and the mildness of its then the Col des Quirlies to the St. climate, which is unusually free from Sorlin gl., whence the N. Summit fog. The village stands on both can be attained by the usual route, banks of the Breda, at a height of and St. Jean d’Arves reached by the 475 m. (1,558 ft.) The Etablissement Col de la Cochette route. This last Thermal has very lately been rebuilt, traverse is specially convenient when and much improved. The Chateau the start is made from a point on the is not remarkable, but the grounds E. side. are prettily laid out, and much resorted to by visitors. Many excursions can be madem the environs of Allevard, for details of which consult Joanne’s ‘Alpes Dauphinoises,’ vol. i. (1890), Rte. 26, Route F . or the Guide Book published in 1895 by the local Syndicat d’lnitiative. GRENOBLE OR CHAMBERY TO That most frequently made is to the ALLEVARD . EXCURSIONS AND rocky cii'que called the Bout du PASSES FROM ALLEVARD . Monde (J hr. ), passing the great iron foundry on the way. 20 min. from Allevard is most easily reached the Baths is a curious ruin (now from the Pontcharra station (§ 10. restored inside) commanding a fine Rte. B), on the railway between view : it is called the Tourdu Trend, Grenoble (26 m. distant ) and Cham- and dates from the ninth or tenth bery (13 m. off). Thence a new century. A charming excursion steam tramway runs up to Allevard (2 hrs. by carriage road) is past (9 m.) This line mounts along the Arvillard (5 m. ) and through the right bank of the Breda through very Bens glen to the picturesquely beautiful park-like scenery and com¬ situated ruins of the Chartreuse de mands pleasing views of the sur¬ St. Hugon (827 m., 2,713 ^*)» rounding mountains. Near the founded c. 1175 by St. Hugh of village of DStrier (5 m.) the valley Grenoble. The route passes by the turns sharply to the S., and the line, remarkable Pont du Diable, whence always keeping to the right bank of a pedestrian may vary the return by the Breda, mounts gradually above regaining the high road at Pont de the stream which flows in a deep Bens by way of Montgarcn. gorge below. The snowy mass of The ascent of the Brame Purine the Gleyzin appears to close the head (1,231 nr., 4,039 ft. ), apointN .W- of the valley. There is also a of the village, in the ridge between carriage road from Pontcharra (in the valley of the Breda and that of 8 m. ) along the left bank of the the Isere, may be made in i-J hr- Breda, and another (see below, a), by a mule path, which passes by the very picturesque, from the Goncelin hamlet of Crozet. The ridge ^ station, 7 m. nearer Grenoble than thickly wooded, so that it is only Pontcharra . from two or three points that an un¬ The sulphur waters of Allevard interrupted view—extending to the have only of comparatively recent glaciers of the Tarentaise—can be years attracted notice, but are now obtained. (To the S. the Cinq annually frequented by many hun¬ Pointesy accessible from the Col de ROUTE F. GRENOBLE OR CHAMBERY TO ALLEVARD 129 Bariot— see a. below—command separates the Breda from the Isere ail even finer view.) In descending the road comma.nds a fine view of from the Brame Farine chalet the range of the Grande Chartreuse , (20 min. below the top ) visitors often opposite. About 7 m. from the avail themselves of the sledges which Baths is Goncelin, a railway station are used for the conveyance of wood, 19 m. from Grenoble. Another reaching the Baths in 15 min. This carriage road (very picturesque) leaves descent cl la raniassc has been vividly the last-named route at Saille (3 111. described by M. Alphonse Daudet in from the Baths), crosses the Col de ‘Numa Roumestan.’ S. of the Bariot , 1,053 m., 3,455 ft. (hence Baths the (1,359m., 4,459 ft-)» the Cinq Pointes may be ascended), on which are the extensive iron mines and descends by Theys to 7encin' that play an important part in the station, 16 m. from Grenoble. history of Allevard, is often ascended {b) To Chamousset.—A char road (ij hr.) for the sake of the view. leads in about 5 m. to Arvillard, and More energetic persons will prefer thence in 2 m. to La Pochette (2 m. to ascend the Petit Charnier , by tramway from Detrier ), in the 2,124 m., 6,969 ft. (4-5- 5 hrs.), or valley of the Gelon. Following one the Grand Charnier , 2,564 nr., or other bank of that stream, it 8,412 ft. (6 hrs.), to the E. of the reaches Chamousset station (§ 7. Baths(see Rte. Ii . 1). The way lies Rte. A), in the valley of the Arc, in through the Veyton glen to the Col about 20- 22 m. from the Baths. de Claran (horses go as far as the (f) To Aiguebelle .—The Gelon Col), to the N.W. of the Petit torrent makes so sharp an angle at Charnier; the Col can also be La Rochette that by turning slightly reached by the Grand Collet ridge to the right at that village from the on the N.W. From the Col the road just described it is possible to Petit Charnier is reached in | hr. ; ascend the upper Gelon valley by the Grand Charnier is 1^-hr. further a carriage road, and at its head reach on, and can also be attained from the by mule path a low pass, the Col de Col de Bourbiere (between the Bens Alont Gilbert (1,271 m., 4,170 ft.), and Veyton glens), on the S.K. by which Aiguebelle is attained in The great excursion from the 5J hrs. from the Baths. Baths is that to the Sept Laax , de¬ {d) To Epierre .—Three paths lead scribed in the next Rte. The best hither , but , though the distance in a headquarters for climbers in that direct line is less than to Chamousset group is at Le Curtillard. or Aiguebelle, from 6 to 7 hrs. are The principal passes from Allevard required. The easiest, but most to the Romanche and Arc valleys are circuitous, way is by La Rochette . described in Rtes. G and II respec¬ The road mounts hence by the left tively. Many other easier passes lead bank of the Gelon, passing the ham¬ in various directions (especially to the lets of Presle and Le Verneil (2J m. ), valley of the Arc, on the E .), and may whence a mule path turns to the S.E . he briefly noticed here. through a lateral valley leading to (#) To Grenoble. _ A much-fre¬ the Col d )'Arbaretan or Herbarietan quented carriage road passes by St. (1,847 m., 6,060 ft. ), and then Pierre d'Allevard (2 m.), where a descends to St. Pierre de Belleville ruined tower is the only remaining (5 hrs. ), on the 1. bank of the Arc, vestige of a Cluniac monastery, dating about ijm . below Epierre. Another hom the eleventh century. 2 m. path mounts from Presle by the glen further is the village of Aforetel, near of the Jondron to the Col de la Perche which are seen the remains of two (1c. 2,000 m., 6,562 ft. ), 2J hrs. ruined castles. In traversing by a com¬ from Presle. From the Col the paratively low pass the ridge which easiest way is to descend the Ar- K 130 DAUPHINJS ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT baretan ravine to the N.E ., which day’s walk {unless under exceptional leads to St. Pierre de Belleville circumstances), and it is better to (i-J hr.) Another , and rather sleep at Le Curtillard, or at the inn shorter, way is to pass a second Col, at the Sept Laux. The Col du lying to the E. of the Col de la Merdaret and the Col de la Coche Perche, which leads direct to St. enable a traveller to go direct from Leger, a short distance above Epierre the Sept Laux to Grenoble, but it is, on the opposite or 1. bank of the probably more convenient now to Arc. descend to the new steam tram line (e) To St, Remy.—The most at La Rochetaillee. direct course from Allevard to the The char road from Allevard to the upper valley of the Arc is by the upper valley of the Breda follows the Col de la Fraiche {2, 181 m., r. bank of that stream, the Gleyiin 7,156 ft.), which leads by a path in and its glaciers forming a fine feature 6 hrs. to St. Remy, about half-way in the view in front. It is 4 nr. to between Epierre and La Chambre. Pinsot , at the junction of the Breda From Arvillard the road follows the with the Gleyzin torrent. (For the r. bank of the Kens torrent for pass to La Chambre see next Rte., about 1 hr. to the Chartreuse de St. as well as for the ascent of the Pic du Hugon (2 hrs. from the Baths), men¬ Gleyzin (2,789 m., 9,15! ft*) ^ he tioned above. Keeping to the N. ascent continues, not steep, along the side of the valley, often called the same bank of the Breda to La Fer- Combe de St. Hugon> the foot path riere (3 m. ), and a short distance be¬ reaches the hamlet of Plan in ^ hr. yond, after passing Grand 77nervoz, is further, and then , ascending by Le Curtillard {9m ., or 2 hrs.’ drive zigzags the mountain slope to the from Allevard ), with the good little 1., attains the Col in 2-J- 3 hrs. from H . de Bains, the best starting point the Chartreuse. From the summit for excursions in this valley, (for the St. Remy is reached in ij - hr. of Col de Valloire to La Chambre, see rapid descent. By a slight detour of next Rte. ) The road here passes to less than J hr., through wilder and the 1. bank of the Brdda, and in J hr. more striking scenery, the traveller more comes to an end at the hamlet may reach another pass, the Col of Fond de France (see next Rte. for d'Arpingon (2,225 m., 7j300 ft.), the Col de la Croix to La Chambre), lying a short distance further S. than which is at the mouth of the Combe the Col de la Fraiche. The paths de Madame, and at the foot of the unite again a short distance above St. steep ascent towards the Sept Laux* Remy. The basin of the Fond de France is formed by the union of three lateral valleys—those of Madame, PUyMh and Breda . At its upper end is the Route G . fine waterfall of Pissou, which is seen from afar, and may be visite< ALLEVARD TO BOURG D’OISANS . by a detour of a few minutes, hi ear THE SEPT LAUX . it the path mounts steeply up a slope 7- 8 hrs . to the inn at the Sept Laux where beeches are still seen among by char road to Fond de France , the birches and pines to a woodef and mule path thence ; 6- 7 hrs . to plateau, whence a second and stJ ePer Bourg d’Oisans by foot path to Rivier ascent brings the traveller (15 d’Allemont , char road thence to La from Fond de France ) to the Gfey stfi Rochetaill £e station , and so by steam de la Ferricre chalet (1,610 m., tramway to Bourg d’Oisans . 5,282 ft.) This is an interesting excursion, [ This is the best point ft°n’ but the distance is too great for a which to gain, in 2 hrs., by a Pat ROUTE G. ALLEVARD TO BOURG D’OISANS 131
winding round the mountain slopes slopes to a small gl., and mounting to the S., and then making a great by this or its 1. bank to the gap called loop towards the N., the Col du Col de la Pyramide , or d jLnyanthe , Merdaret (1,823 5*9^* ft.)* just S. of the peak (2- 2J hrs.) Hence which commands an admirable view the summit is \ hr. distant by rounding of the peaks of the Allevard group. a little on the E. side, and then follow¬ It may also be gained by a good path ing the ridge. The view is very fine, from La Ferriere. A path leads down including the Mont Blanc chain, the inaN .W. direction to Tkeys Grand Combin, and many of the a village which is said to have the Zermatt peaks, besides all the great finest position in the Graisivaudan summits of the Tarentaise and the valley. It is 4 m. hence by a char Dauphine , not to mention the nearer road to Tencin station (§ 10. Rte. B), points, the Lac du Bourget, and a 16m. from Grenoble. This is one of bit of the Graisivaudan valley. From the most frequented routes from Gre¬ the Rochev Blanc it is easy to descend noble to the valley of the Breda, and to the N.E. by a small gl. into the the most agreeable, though of course Combe de Madame, and so reach the not the shortest, from Allevard or the Pissou waterfall in about 3 hrs. from Sept Laux to that city.] the summit. From the gap to the S. The Gleyzin chalet stands on a shelf, of the peak the traveller can go down anda third ascent, by many zigzags, is a small gl., or the socks on its r. required(a pretty waterfall of the Breda bank, to the Rioit Claret glen, is passed on the way) to gain the Lac through which a path along thel . sicje Noh\ the first of the Sept Laux. The leads down to the Quatre Maisons way henceforwardis nearly level, and chalets, in the upper Combe d’Olle passes between the Lac de la Motte (ij - 2hrs .), on the Col du Glandon and the Lac de Cotepen(leaving the track (Rte. E ), which may be fol¬ Lac Blanc above on the 1.) before lowed either to La Chambre or to skirting along the W. shore of the Bourg d’Oisans. (By crossing the Col Lac du Col (pronounced Cos), above de la Croix de Fer (Rte. E ), at the which stands (4 hrs. from Fond de very head of the Olle valley, St. Jean France)the convenient little mountain d’Arves (Rte. D) may be gained in fUn(2, 185 tfi-* 7, 169 ft.) built here 3- 3J hrs. from Quatre Maisons.] in 1881 by the indefatigable ‘Societe The Lac du Col is the highest of a des Touristes du Dauphine,’ which group oflakes lying amidst the cluster has done so much to attract travellers of peaks that separate the Combe . to the Dauphine Alps. There is a d’Olle from the sources of the Breda boat on the lake. The scenery has The largest, which lie near the path, niore of wildness than sublimity, but are seven in number, three being k affords an agreeable change for beyond the Col des Sept Laux, and water drinkers from Allevard or so having a S. outfall. There are briage, and even for those who do several small lakes at hand, so that n°t limit themselves to snow-clad the total number is eleven. mountains. From the inn an ascent of 5 min. [ Several of the neighbouring pom leads to the Col des Sept Laux can be ascended. That usually visite (2, 184 m., 7, 166 ft.), and then the is the Rocher Blanc, or Pic de 1 track runs S. over a dreary rock Fyramide (2,931 m., 9,617 ft. plateau, with two lakes, to the Col de which is the highest, and so coir l’Hommc (1 hr.), whence a very fine stands the finest view, while tb view is gained of the lower bit of the traveller may descend from it o Olle valley, just at the spectator’s several different sides. The ascent : feet, with the Grandes Rousses and ^ ade by passing round the N. end c other snowy peaks as a background. the Lac du Col, then going up ston [ A faintly marked path winds hence K 2 ’ARVES DISTRICT 132 DAUPHIN ]? ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D buttresses in a out in the last Rte.) one way down round the mountain to the Col du la the Rocher Blanc leads S.W. direction to gain the Col de to ,493 ft.), 2- 3 hrs. Glandon route (which goes over Coche(i ,979 m., 6 to the the foot path the Villards glen), and another from the inn. Hence of the Col de la Croix, in l \ hrs., Allevard side descends to Prabert take that whence a char road leads in hr. so that it is possible to on the way to La Chambre. by Laval to Brignoud station, 12 m. summit . If bound for Grenoble The passes proper are described in from Grenoble N. to S. it is more direct from the inn not to order from Merlet .—Leaving Alle¬ cross the Col de YHomme, however, 1. Col du la Vache, rather vard by the char road leading above but the Col de works in the direction of the further to the W. over the same the iron France and Sept Laux (see whence too there is an easy Fond de ridge, Rte. G), the hamlet of Panissihes descent to Rivier.)J where descent to Rivier d’AUemont is traversed, and the road left The byabridge. A faint track it crosses the Veyton torrent is long and steep. The mule track now turns S.E. and down a narrow rock gorge, leads the Veyton glen, sometimes bearing the alarming (but totally follows du close to the stream, sometimes ata unjustified) name of i Cheminee \ hrs. it to avoid it, by height above it, till in 2 Diabled (It is easy reaches the Chevrette saw mill. the stream all the way, or keeping by the Petit Charnier (2,124 to cross it, when some way down, [ Hence bear S.W. m., 6,969 ft. ) is easily ascended in2* to its r. bank, and then W either hrs. by the Col de Claran on its N. past the Chdmes huts.) In (2,564 ni., of Rivier d’Allemont The Grand Charnier way the hamlet off, but is . from the Col de 8,412 ft.) is ij hr. further is attained (1J- 2 hrs from the S.E. by way ), and thenceforward the Col better climbed l’Homme Col de Bourbiere (see below). du Glandon route (Rte. E ) is followed of the The latter peak commands an ex¬ to the Rochetaillee station, 4J m. from by its Gre¬ tensive view, but is overlooked Bourg d’Oisans, or 26 m. from .J noble neighbour, the Pic du Frene The path to the Col, soon after passing Chevrette, reaches the base of a long and steep slope, called Tirequoy. It now becomes a mere foot path, and ascends this slope by Route H . numerous zigzags. This leads to a hollow, followed, after another .EVARI ) TO I.A CHAMBRE . rocky ALT ascent, by a second, and this again and more the map suffices to by a third, still wilder A glance at desolate. show that the line of peaks extending Blanc to the Pic du [ At the last chalet a path bears to from the Rocher Col de Bourbil^ which are the N.E. over the Frene divides two glens the Bens glen» other. That to the head of roughly parallel to each pass, the is the upper valley of whence there is a rough on the W. side Col du Frfaie or de la Pierre,, b) Brdda, described in the preceding the Remy, a little belowD Rte ., while that on the E . (running which St. from N.E. to S.W. rather than due Chambre, may be gained in 7 °r hrs. from the Baths. Near the S., like the Breda glen) is 8 N. and glen a ravine to the Combe des Villards, opening out head of the Veyton at La Chambre. the N.E., that of Frene? affords the into the Arc valley route to the summit of the many passes leading best There are thus Clocker du Fr^ ridge, through the glens du Frene , or Grand over this 213 ft.), the higher on either side ; while (as was pointed (2,808 m., 9, ROUTE H . ALLEVARD TO LA CHAMBRE 133 point in these parts : it is gained (2,827 m., 9,275 ft.), which is pro¬ in3 hrs. from the head of the Veyton bably accessible from this point. glen by way of the Jerusalem chalet.3 [ Hence the Puy Gris (2,992 m., From the head of the glen the 9,816 ft.), the highest summit in the Merlet path turns due E., and soon ranges round Allevard, can be climbed disappears amid the loose rocks, by gaining the Col of the same name intermixed with patches of snow, to its W., and then clambering over a that lead up to the Col du Merlet, ridge of rotten rocks, or by going from 2,294 ni., 7,527 ft. (5 hrs. from the Col down to the Cliraus gl., and Allevard), with the Pic du Merlet thence by a gully attaining the W. m., 8,419 ft.) on the N. The ridge higher than the great tower (2,566 . descent lies at first down a huge pile which forms the chief obstacle of debris, below which is the highest About if hr. suffices from the Col du chalet on the E . side. Keeping to Grand Glacier.] the N. side of the torrent , two The descent is made by the Puy Gris hollows, forming successive steps in gl, and the deep-cut Arbe glen to St. hrs.), some the descent, are passed, and then the Colomban des Villards.. (2 torrent is crossed to and fro three way above St. Alban des Villards, and times, till, after passing the Velle- about 7 m. by road from La Chambre. ckaud chalet, the traveller finds him¬ 3. Col de Valloire .—The starting self on the verge of a precipitous point for this pass is Le Curtillard slope, down which the stream (9 m.„, or 2 hrs.’ drive from Allevard). plunges in a succession of rapids and The way lies to the S.E., through the To avoid waterfalls. The track keeps to the ■Grande Valloire ravine. r., and winds down the mountain¬ the narrow gorge through which the side till, in the valley below,,it falls, torrent rushes to join the Breda, the intoa rough char road. This,leads path mounts along the slopes above to Le Molard, the chief hamlet of its r. bank, then crosses to the St. Alban des Villards, if hr. opposite side, and makes a detour to of a lateral (There is a shorter way by following reach the farther side the bank of the torrent itself. ) ravine. In less than I hr. the path The char road thence descends the returns to the r. bank at the Glandon or Villards valley to La Upper Valloire chalets, and mounts Chambre (if hr.), reached in 8 hrs. easily to the end of the glen, which from Allevard. is occupied by three small lakes. 2. ColduGrand Glacier.—Thetrack (Hence the Col de Comberousse to this pass starts from Pinsot , 4 m. enables a traveller to reach the ridge from Allevard on the road leading up W. of Puy Gris, and so to take this towards the Sept Laux (Rte. G), and peak on the way from Le Curtillard ascends the Gleyzin glen. After to Pinsot and Allevard.) A steeper passing several chalets, those of ascent, finally over a small gl., de Valloire Combe Grasse are reached (3 hrs.), leads to the Col where the mule path comes to an {c. 2,720 m., 8,924 ft.), just N. of end. the Rocker d'Arguille (2,887 m., [ Hence the Pic du Gleyzin 9,472 ft.), 2 hrs. 20 min. (leisurely (2,789 m., 9,151 ft. ) can be best walkers take 3 hrs. ) from Grand climbed in 4f hrs. from the gap to its Thiervoz, near Le Curtillard . On 8., though the ascent is usually made the E. side the track keeps to the by the Veyton glen by the N. face.] 1. bank of the torrent , and, passing A long ascent leads to the Gleyzin through the Tepey glen, in 2 hrs. Colo?nban des Villards, gh, over which (or by its N. side) reaches St. the pass (2,740 m., 8,990 ft. ) is whence it is 7 m. by road to La gained (3 hrs.) It lies to the S. of Chambre. In all the distance from the Pointe du Grand Glacier Grand Thiervoz to La Chambre has r34 DAUPHINE ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT been done in 6 hrs. 35 min., but line from Grenoble to Chambery ordinary travellers will probably take (§ 10. Rte. B), the traveller coming longer. Joanne allows nearly 12 hrs. from Chambery (35 m. ) may join this for the pass. Route. Beyond Gieres the tramway 4. Col de la Croix.—Close to the mounts through the pretty wooded waterfall of Pissou (Rte. G), above gorge of the Sonnant , past the hamlet Le Curtillard , is the opening of of the same name, to Uriage, the the Combe de Aladame, through station being at the N. end of the which a track leads in 2-3 hrs. to the village. Col de la Croix (2,558 m., 8,393 ft. ), Uriage (414 m., 1,358 ft.) is a at its head. Many zigzags lead down hamlet of St. Martin d’Uriage, which E. side to the very head of is nearly 200 m. (656 ft.) higher up. Its on the , the Villards glen, through which the waters were known to the Romans Col du Glandon route is followed to but it is only since 1841 that, owing La Chambre. It is said that 4 hrs. to the enterprise of the Marquis suffice for the whole of the descent, de Ferriol, the proprietor, Uriage of inva¬ but probably more is really required. has become a favourite resort Travellers are warned not to take a lids, the waters being specially effi¬ so-called short cut to the Col de la cacious in the case of skin diseases Croix from St. Colomban des Villards and nervous affections. The annual by the S.W. arm of the Combe number of visitors, almost exclusively de Tepey and the Col de Brabant. French , is estimated at 5,000. The From the S.W. bay of the Combe de buildings are handsome and con¬ Madame the Rocher Blanc (2,931 m., venient, and include a fine Casino, 9,617 ft.) may be attained direct (see as well as an admirably appointed Rte. G). The highest and central Etablissement des Bains, &c., all point {c. 2,945 m., 9,662 ft. ) of the built in an English park. Imme¬ fine rocky mass of the Rockers de diately above the village (f hr.) is 1'Argentine , between that summit the Ch&tean (507 m., 1,663 ft.)* a collection of local and the Col de la Croix, long defied which contains all assaults, but was finally climbed and Egyptian antiquities, some good in 1893 by way of a gully (accessible pictures, and a natural history mu¬ from N. and S. ) which led up to the seum, all open to visitors. It belongs ridge to the E. of the peak, and then to M. de St. Ferriol, who is the of the rocks of the N. face. The owner of the entire place, and has start was made from the Riou Claret laid out large sums in improvements. huts , or Quatre Maisons, in the Olle The village of St. Martin d ' Unage is valley, and the descent effected into a little way above the Chateau, and the Combe de Madame. is frequented by those who desire greater quietness than can be ob¬ tained at the Baths themselves. There are many agreeable excursions in the neighbourhood. The Montagne dfo Route I . Quatre Seigneurs (940 m., 3,084 ft.) GRENOBLE TO URIAGE . ASCENT may be reached in if hr., and com¬ OF BELI .EDONNE . mands a fine view, but its highest point is now crowned by a fort, and Uriage is now best reached from is therefore inaccessible to visitors. Grenoble by the new steam tramway, The Cascade de POursiere (3t which starts from the P.L.M. rail¬ and the Chartreuse de Prew°- way station, and takes about 1 hr. to (if - hr.), are often visited fro 111 traverse 8 m. (going on from Uriage Uriage, particularly by those who by Vaulnaveys to Vizille, 6 m. fur¬ are on their way up Chanrousse or ther). At Gibres(4 m.), on the main Belledonne. ROUTE I. ASCENT OF BELLEDONNE 135
These two mountains form the from the Baths past St. Martin chief inducement for a mountaineer d’Uriage, and then through a thick to visit Uriage. The ascent of Chan- forest to the striking Cascade de rousse is often made by pedestrians VOursiere (1,480 m., 4,856 ft.), fed who do not undertake the more by the snows of Belledonne (3jhrs .) laborious escalade of Belledonne. It then continues to ascend, in a The summit (2,255 m*> 7»397 ft.) is N.E. direction, and, passing through marked by a cross, which from its several rocky and grassy basins, with great size is apt to mislead those small lakes, gains the natural amphi¬ who suppose themselves near the top theatre of La Pra , at the upper end of the mountain. The view is very of which stands the inn built by the fine, but to the N. and N.E. the French Alpine Club (1£- 2 hrs.), 2,145 panorama is closed by the higher m., 7,038 ft., where it is usual to pass summits of the Belledonne range. the night before making the ascent. The usual way up it is to mount [ Here falls in another path, coming by a mule path to the picturesquely from Domene, in the Graisivaudan, situated ruins of the old Carthusian by Revel, and the Crozet lake, house of Premol, 1,095 m., 3,593 ft. this tarn being very finely placed in (if hr.), destroyed at the Revolution. a gorge between the Grande Lance and the Colon. The (The Colde Premol is J hr. distant, by de Domene a char road which descends in 2 hrs. track then goes over the Col de la Pra to Sechilienne, in the valley of the to the inn, 5 hrs. from Domene, the Romanche. Rte. A). 2hrs. beyond way being marked throughout by the is the RocheBGranger inn (1,850 m., telephone poles. The Crozet lake direct from 6,070 ft.), built by the ‘ Societe des can also be reached Touristes du Dauphine 5 (Alpine Lancey, N.E. of Domene, by the garden close by), and i £ hr. further gorge of Lancey.] (always by mule path ) is the summit Beyond the inn a fairly good mule of Chanrousse, 5 hrs. from Uriage. path leads E. up a series of steps, past (There is a steeper and shorter way the smaller and the larger Domenon from Uriage for pedestrians by the lakes, mountain tarns often frozen over gorge, E. of the Baths.) The in the summer. The foot track now Recoin N.E. direction most interesting way for the descent becomes fainter and a is to go by the Lacs Robert to the must be kept, avoiding the snow slope leads to the Col de Cascade de TOursiere(if -hr. ), on the on the N. which Belledonne route. (From those lakes Freydane. A steep slope of neve must a traveller bound for Bourg d’Oisans be mounted, and so the Col du Grand may reach the Col des Grandes Domenon (leading into the Baton Escombailles in 2 hrs., and descend glen) attained . The route now turns in 1 hr. 40 min. more to Livet, in to the E., and the traveller finally the valley of the Romanche. Rte. A.) reaches a considerable, nearly level, To a mountaineer the most inte¬ snow field, in which in hot summers resting excursion to be made from a small lake is formed, though it Uriage is the ascent of Belledonne. sometimes entirely disappears. A (In these regions the French further ascent of J hr. leads hence to Government map is better than the the Croix de Belledonne (2J- 3 hrs. Siiooo.) This mountain is composed from La Pra ). With the slight draw¬ °f three peaks — the Grand Pic back of the horizon being broken by (2,981 m., 9,781 ft.), the/Vc Central the Grand Pic (which just hides Mont (2,928 m., 9,607 ft.), and the Croix Blanc) the panorama is magnificent, de Belledonne(2,903 m., 9,525 ft. ), as might be expected from the posi¬ morder from N.E. toS .W. The last- tion of the peak, the westernmost named is that most frequently climbed high summit in the range of the from Uriage. A mule path mounts Alps. The Croix is also accessible 136 DAUPIIINE ALPS . § 8. AIGUILLES D’ARVES DISTRICT from Allemont, in the Olle valley rocky S. slope of the peak ; it com¬ (Rte. E ), by way of the Club hut mands a fine view over the Graisi- (2,165 m-»7)103 ft.) near the Belle- vaudan. The rather higher Grande donne lake (3 hrs.), whence a further Latice d'Allemont (2,844 m., 9,331 climb up a steep couloir (of snow or ft ), to the S., is best climbed from stones, according to the season) leads Allemont (6^ hrs.) by the Chalanches to the foot of the final snow field de¬ glen and the Col dela Portetta (SAV. scribed above, the summit being thus of the peak), or from the Baton glen, gained in 1^- 2 hrs. from the Club which is gained from La Pra by the hut : the bit of this route above the Col du Grand Domenon. hut is very steep and rapid, though toilsome rather than difficult. The Croix may also be reached from Les Sables, in the Romanche valley (Rte. A), or from Allemont by way of the Baton glen between the Grande Lance d’Allemont and the Grande Voudene, SECTION 9. the Col du Grand Domenon being gained in 5 hrs., and the usual route PELVOUX DISTRICT . there joined. The Baton glen is reached from Allemont by a steep and As stated in the Introduction to rapid path , which winds round the this Chapter , the almost isolated lower spurs running from the Grande group of high mountains, of which Lance d’Allemont before gaining the the best known peak is the Pelvoux, bank of the Baton torrent , or better lies between the Romanche and by the good path to the Chalanches Guisane, the Durance, and the mines (2J hrs. ), and thence in 1 hr. Drac, in an irregular triangle, by the Col de la Portetta . whose sides are about 45 miles long. The Grand Pic is more difficult of If the level of the sea were raised access than the Croix. It may be 5,000 ft. the entire district would reached by the N.E. face (on which form a peninsula, connected with the iron ropes are fixed) in 2-3 hrs. from main range of the Cottian Alps only the Club hut (mentioned above) at its by the narrow neck of land forming S.E. foot, or in hr. by its N. the Col du Lautaret . Nothing can face from the Col de la Balmette be more irregular and complicated (accessible in hr. from the Club than the disposition of the ridges hut, or better in 3- 4 hrs. from the which go to make up this highland La Pra inn by way of the Col de region ; and the direction and Freydane , beyond and N. of the grouping of the valleys show a larger Domenon lake ). Of recent similar absence of apparent order. years (first in 1890) it has also been The three ridges which include all the attained from the Croix by way of highest peaks, excepting the Kerins one side or the other (specially that and the Mont Pelvoux, show indeed on the S.E., on which iron ropes are indications of a regular plan, for they now placed) of the jagged rock ridge form the sides of a quadrangle, between them : 1 hr. or less suffices open to the W. (strictly N.W*)» for the good climber to go from one and following pretty closely the peak to the other over the Central direction of the cardinal points. peak. Further S. again the valleys show Another excursion from La Pra is a general tendency to run K. and the ascent of the Grande Lance de W. ; but a number of lofty pro¬ Domhie (2,813 m., 9,229 ft ), which montories, including peaks of is accessible in 2- 2J hrs. by way of 11,000 ft. and upwards, diverge m the smaller Domenon lake, and the every direction, while between them