BD Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free

Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry:

6 FREE Gemstone Jewelry Projects plus Guide to Gemstone Beads Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free Gemstone Jewelry Projects Plus Guide To Gemstone Beads

Dyed or Natural Gemstones by Jean Campbell p. 1

Healing Beads: The Special Meaning of Gemstones by Jean Campbell p 2

The Magic of Stones: 5 Tips for Today’s Affordable Semiprecious Stones by Marlene Blessing p. 3

Net of Full Gems Mile Marker 219 Stone Soup Necklace

by Linda Richmond p. 4 by Annie Hartman Bakken p. 6 by Tina Koyama p. 8

Stone Temple Donuts Turquoise Collage Cobblestone

by Dustin Wedekind p. 11 by Marcella Austenfeld p. 13 by Denise Yezbak Moore p. 16 Contents ii Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free Gemstone Jewelry Projects Plus Guide to Gemstone Beads

Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free Gemstone Finally, once you have your new gemstone beads, look through the Jewelry Projects Plus Guide to Gemstone Beads six FREE projects for some inspiration. Human beings have prized gemstones for hundreds of years. In You can start your journey with Linda Richmond’s Net Full of addition to their natural beauty, gemstones have also been coveted Gems, an easy stitching project that uses beautiful (and affordable) for their perceived mystic powers. Gemstones are believed to help gemstone chips to create a bold netted choker. heal, bring good luck and fortune, and enhance the abilities of those Mile Marker 219 by Annie Hartman Bakken combines sterling who wear and carry them. Even if you don’t believe in the “powers” of silver findings, seed beads, and Unakite to create an earthy necklace. gemstones, you can see for yourself how gemstones have the power Harness the energy of your favorite gemstone donut and freeform to heal. Just sit down with a gorgeous strand of gemstone beads in peyote stitch in Tina Koyama’s Stone Soup Donut necklace. your favorite color and shape and stitch (or string) them up into a Dustin Wedekind uses gemstone donuts in a beautiful and piece of jewelry. I’ll bet by the time you’ve finished that piece, you’re fashion-forward necklace design that you can make in just minutes. feeling relaxed and happy again, right? If you’re making that piece of Turquoise Collage by Marcella Austenfeld combines knotted gemstone jewelry for a friend or loved one, that’s another way to see leather with a beaded bezel for a freeform turquoise cabochon in a how gemstone beads bring joy! design that’s both earthy and elegant! To celebrate the power of gemstone beads, we’ve brought you this And finally, practice your wire wrapped loops when you make free eBook Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free your own beaded chain of gemstone beads to accent a funky ceramic Gemstone Jewelry Projects Plus Guide to Gemstone Beads focal in Denise Yezbak Moore’s Cobblestone necklace. While there are plenty of high-end gemstone beads available, For me, gemstones have always held a fascination and mystery that buying gemstone beads doesn’t necessarily have to hurt your budget. I can’t explain. As a college student many years ago, I sat in wonder and There are plenty of low-cost gemstones available at bead shows, bead learned how each of these stones formed deep inside the earth over shops, and online. Marlene Blessing has shared some of her gemstone millions of years. It still amazes me to hold a beautifully cut and pol- bead-buying expertise with suggestions for what stones and cuts to ished gemstone bead in my hand or wear one around my neck and feel look for that can save you money. And because it’s also important to the connection between me and the planet. Start your own personal know if a gemstone bead has been treated (dyed, heated, lacquered, gemstone journey today by downloading Using Gems and Semi-Pre- bleached, or otherwise enhanced), you should take a look at the cious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free Gemstone Jewelry Projects Plus Guide to handy reference chart provided by Jean Campbell that details the Gemstone Beads. You never know where the path will lead you! abbreviations you should see on gemstone strands and beads that are sold by reputable dealers. Even the industry experts have their favorite semiprecious gemstone beads, and you can check out five recommendations for semiprecious gemstone beads that are popping up in bead shops and bead shows. Pair them with the suggested beads for today’s hottest jewelry looks! Jennifer VanBenschoten, Beading Daily editor

Using Gems and Semi-Precious Stones in Jewelry: 6 Free Gemstone Jewelry Projects Plus Guide to Gemstone Beads

editor, beadingdaily JENNIFER VANBENSCHOTEN

photography AS NOTED OR JOE COCA, ANN SWANSON • production designer NICHOLE MULDER Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. BeadingDaily, Beadwork, and Stringing do not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in this publication. Nor do BeadingDaily, Beadwork, or Stringing evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in BeadingDaily, Beadwork, and Stringing.

Introduction iii Dyed or Natural Gemstones? How to Tell the Difference The Story of “Sleeping Beauty Turquoise”

Jean campbell

When I first started working with you’re anything like me, you sometimes Codes to describe them. You just need gemstone beads, I went online and buy on impulse. (Did I just say “some- to know the symbols to look for (see ordered some stones listed as “Sleep- times”?) The key here is to talk, talk, the chart below for a quick overview). ing Beauty turquoise” howlite. I know, talk to the vendor or shop owner. Ask A listing with these codes for the funky I know. I was young and mercurial and everything about the stones you have stones I bought might look like this: didn’t really know what I was read- your eye on—what type are they? The Blue howlite nuggets (D). Who knows, ing in that description—I just saw the properties? Are they dyed or enhanced I may have still made the purchase, but Sleeping Beauty turquoise part. You in any way? at least I wouldn’t have been so sur- might not be surprised (especially if prised when I received them. Another you read jewelry trade magazines) to American Gem Trade lesson I learned with that old purchase? learn that what I received in the mail Association’s Anything in quotation marks means was “obnoxiously-blue-and-shiny” dyed Enhancement Codes “resembles,” not “the real thing.” howlite. Oh, well. I should have at least When you order stones from a repu- Short of going to gemology school, you had the good sense to remember you table dealer on their website or from can get a great education about stones get what you pay for. Lesson learned. their catalog, you’ll have a little extra by reading trade magazines and asking Has this happened to you? If you ever cushion if the vendor uses the American questions when you buy your gemstone buy stones, I’m sure it has at least once. Gem Trade Association’s Enhancement beads. It can even happen at a gem show or bead shop: you encounter a table full of un-labeled strands of stones and unless you know a lot about gems or can drag a knowledgeable someone along with you, it’s a bit of a crapshoot. And if A “Sleeping Beauty Turquoise” Fairy Tale

AFTA Enhancement Codes N Natural L Lasers and chemicals used to alter inclusions (this E Enhanced, which describes any of the following: one’s for diamonds) ASBL Assembled into single stones created with two or O Oil fills the surface fissures to improve appearance; more separate pieces wax and resin are also used in this technique B Bleached R Irradiation (gamma and/or electron bombardment) is used to alter color C Coated with lacquer, enamel, foils, etc. SNY Synthetic—manmade, but created with the same D Dyed to intensify color or uniformity composition and structure as the real thing F Filling added to the surface with clear glass, U Diffusion—a chemical/heat treatment to produce plastic, or borax color and/or phenomena H Heated and pressurized to affect color and clarity W Wax or oil is introduced to opaque or translucent I Impregnated with plastic to improve durability stone to improve appearance

Jean campbell

After experiencing a frustrating year of get drawn back into the zone. Beading health concerns, doctors, and hospitals brings calm and quiet. And I tell you, in 2007, I started seeing a naturopath. when it’s a gift I’m beading, the joy of I’d never been to a natural healer and “being” with the giftee is like an extra can’t claim I welcomed Diane into my cherry on the meditation sundae. life without a big dose of skepticism. I hope Diane likes my gift. I know I But as I have since seen results (restless already got as much out of it as she will. legs abated! digestion quieted! back surgery cancelled! pounds lost!), I’m Healing Stones not going to question how or why. There’s a long history of belief in the In gratitude for Diane’s treatment, I healing qualities of gemstones. Native sat down this weekend to make her a Americans used them for prayer and Diane’s Pin bead-embroidered pin. I’ve never been healing, and Chinese health practi- too sure about the claim that gem- tioners have used them for thousands stones have healing properties, but I’m of years. I know I feel a tingly healing pretty sure Diane is, so I thought I’d quality just when I run my fingers make the effort to use stones that she through my gemstone stash! In any might enjoy having around her. Hawk’s case, there are long lists of properties eye for vision; lapis lazuli for intuition; ascribed to our little rock buddies. turquoise for overall good juju. A quick Web search under “healing stones” will give you the big picture. To Diane’s Pin whet your appetite, here’s a very brief While making the pin, I found myself list of the stones common to many of truly appreciating everything she’s our “stashi” with a one-word quality: done for me the last few months. With each stitch, I reflected on her bright Amazonite: prosperity face, encouraging comments, and intu- Crystal quartz: harmony itive observations. It was like she was sitting right next to me. And you know Jasper: grounding what? I found myself filled with great Lapis lazuli: intuition energy. Could it have been the right combination of gemstones? Maybe. But Onyx: balance I know it was mostly from the beading Pearl: purity itself. The meditative quality of beading makes it simple to evoke that feeling. Peridot: health and wealth You know that the Anglo-Saxon word “bede” means prayer, right? I think it Rhodochrosite: love makes perfect sense, don’t you? Bead- Serpentine: clarity ing allows us to get into that zone. For me, even though I might have a filled Sodalite: wisdom to-do list, a sassy nine-year-old, or a Tourmaline: strength hive-producing liver-cleanse on my mind, as soon as I pick up the beads I Turquoise: peace

There’s magic in stones, and I’m not • Choose widely available stones: just talking about some of their mys- Quartz, jade, jasper, agate, and serpen- tical properties. (Certain gemstones tine are great first-stop stones because are supposed to be good for every- they are plentiful and they come in thing from courage, to protection, loads of colors—especially quartz. love, and foretelling the future.) When Jamie Hogsett and I • Look for specials: Whether you’re recently produced our book looking at stones in person or online, Create Jewelry: Stones, I was be sure to check out the discounted fascinated to research the ori- and discontinued stones first. Try gins, history, and properties of to resist gravitating to the fanci- some of the most beautiful— est stones on display and see if the and affordable—gemstones in bargain stones have cool design pos- the market today. sibilities instead. • Savor rough-cut gems: Guess what?! The stones we buy at bead You can buy rubies and sapphires, oh stores and bead shows, as well my. That is, if you’re open to earthy- as online, come from sources looking, rough-cut options. Jamie around the world, from Afghani- Hogsett designed a great necklace stan to Zimbabwe. Garnets are with rough-cut sapphires in Create still primarily from India, for Jewelry: Stones, accenting them with example, while peridot comes raku ceramic flowers. almost exclusively from mines in Ari- zona. And while you may have a very • Make the most of a few good stones: favorite stone that you always want to You can make as few as three to five design with, it can pay to be open to individual stones the stars of your Raku Princess by Jamie Hogsett new discoveries. I’m always drawn to design. They can become dangles in Create Jewelry: Stones green stones, especially rich, olive- suspended from a circle in the center features rough-cut sapphires and colored peridot. But lately I’ve been raku ceramic flowers. of a necklace. Or sprinkle them here looking at amethyst, thinking it’s about and there among some inexpensive time I played with purples. freshwater pearls as accents. Stone merchants are on the frontline of finding good deals for you. They know • Explore inexpensive alternatives: when sources for a particular stone Think color instead of specific type are drying up and track opportunities of stone. That way instead of buying for new stones or stones mined in very turquoise, you might pick amazonite different locales, often with differ- and save some money. ent qualities (deeper colors, mineral inclusions, etc.). You can definitely save We beaders are so lucky to have an money without sacrificing the excite- enormous range of types of stones to ment of gemstones. Here are just a few use in our jewelry designs—stones helpful tips to help you add stones to that always make our work even more your stash. special.

Materials Two 36" strands of small gem chips 30 gr Delicas in color to complement chips Two 8–12mm bead caps Hook and eye clasp Size 0 Nymo beading thread The catch of the day is in color to complement revealed in this stunning beads gem-encrusted netted collar. NOTIONS Size 15 beading needles Scissors Glue or nail polish Needle-nose pliers or needle gripper Beeswax

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at shop.beadingdaily.com/jewelryprojects © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. page 4 Create this easy netted choker by work- Repeat Round 3 until you run out of ing the body of the collar first, then chips or reach the desired length. the decreases at the ends. Although the technique is relatively simple, the Delica Netting results are stunning. By varying the Step 2: Measure the length you’d like number and size of the gem chips and your choker to be and subtract the Figure 2 seed beads, you can create many ver- length of the gem chip netting por- sions, from a choker that hugs your tion you just completed. Following the 5 neck to a long elegant rope of gems. instructions below will give you 1 ⁄8" of netting for each side, plus another 1" for Gem Chip Netting the caps and hook and eye. By adjust- Step 1: Round 1: Using 1 yard of dou- ing your numbers a bit you can decide bled waxed thread and leaving a 6" tail, whether you should do the number of *string 1 chip and 3 Delicas. Repeat rounds given in each step below or do from * eleven times. Use a square knot more or fewer rounds in each step to to tie the thread into a circle. Pass achieve your desired length. through the next 3 Delicas and chip to position your needle for the next round. Step 3: Round 1: String 7 Delicas and Note: Size 15 beading needles are very pass through the next chip. Continue fragile, so always hold your thread to this step until you finish the round. another Delica and up through the cap, pull it through beads; don’t use your Complete the round with a step up by through the hook, and back through needle to pull your thread. passing through the last chip and first the cap. Keep the cap even over the Round 2: String 3 Delicas, 1 chip, and 3 4 Delicas. beadwork, snugging the thread evenly Delicas. Pass through the second Round 2: String 5 Delicas and pass and tight over the hook. Continue pass- chip of the first round (Figure 1). through the next center Delica of the ing through the Delicas, up through Repeat this pattern for the rest of previous round. Continue until you the cap, through the hook, and back this round, passing through every finish this round and step up to the through the cap until you have passed other chip. After passing through the next, passing through the last center through all Delicas (Figure 2). Weave in last chip of the first round, pass Delica and the 3 Delicas of the first all working and tail threads. Tie knots through the first 3 Delicas and chip stitch. to secure, seal with glue or nail polish, of this round to make a “step up.” Rounds 3–10: Repeat Round 2. and trim close to work. Round 3: String 3 Delicas, 1 chip, and 3 Rounds 11–16: Work these rounds with Delicas. Pass through the next chip 3 Delicas per stitch. Step up to pre- (you no longer skip a chip). Continue pare for the next rounds by passing Step 5: Repeat Step 4 for the other until you finish this round and com- through 2 Delicas of the first stitch. side with the other cap and the eye por- plete the step up. Repeat the netting for the other end of tion of your hook and eye closure. the necklace. LINDA RICHMOND of Santa Fe, New Mexico, Bead Cap and Clasp has been captivated by beads for most of her life, and she launched a full-time beading Your thread should be exiting a center career in 1995. She sells her kits, along with Delica after completing Round 16. beads, tools, books, and supplies, through her website at www.lindarichmond.com. Step 4: Pass through the bead cap, through the hook, and back through the bead cap. Ease the cap down over the beadwork and pull the thread Figure 1 fairly tight over the hook. Pass through

Made for Annie’s aunt Susan, aka Dakota Sue, this adventurer’s stone necklace was named after the location of the family farm in Pleasant Lake, North Dakota, where Susan grew up.

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at shop.beadingdaily.com/jewelryprojects © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. page 6 Materials Step 1: Use 40" of wire to string 1 Step 2: Use 40" of wire to string 1 314 opaque green Delicas crimp tube, 5 opaque green Delicas, crimp tube, 2 peach, the hook half 374 transparent green gold-lined Deli- and the eye half of the clasp. Pass back of the clasp, and 3 peach. Pass back cas through the tube and crimp. String through the tube and crimp. String 7 386 peach Delicas all of the opaque green, randomly peach. String one 6×9mm rectangle 39 unakite 6×9mm rectangles 1 unakite 22×30mm flat rectangle stringing a transparent green every and 1 peach thirty-nine times. String Sterling silver hook-and-eye clasp 4–12 beads, for a total of 32 transpar- 7 peach, 1 crimp tube, 3 peach, the 6 sterling silver 2×3mm crimp tubes ent green Delicas. String 1 crimp tube, eye half of the clasp, and 2 peach. Pass 80" of .014 beading wire 2 transparent green, the hook half of back through the tube and crimp, but the clasp, and 3 transparent green. do not cut the wire. String all but 5 of Tools Pass back through the tube; crimp, Wire cutters the remaining peach, 1 crimp tube, 3 Crimping pliers but do not cut the wire. String half of peach, the hook half of the clasp, and the remaining transparent green, the 2 peach. Pass back through the crimp Finished size: 22×30mm rectangle, all but 5 of the tube and crimp. 17½"(shortest strand) remaining transparent green, 1 crimp tube, 2 transparent green, the eye half Resources of the clasp, and 3 transparent green. Check your local bead shop or Pass back through the crimp tube and contact: Crimp tubes: Bead Cache. crimp. All other materials: Loveland Bead Company.

Step by Step Wire Jewelry is the only magazine devoted to bringing you the very best in wire! In every issue you’ll nd expert advice from premier wire artists, 12–15 original jewelry projects with full-color step-by-step photographs, and the newest wire trends and designs. Take advantage of this risk-free o er at interweave.com/go/bdsw If not completely satis ed, please keep your FREE issue and return the bill marked “cancel” and owe nothing. ORDER TODAY!

Materials Size 11°, 8°, and 6° seed beads in a variety of textures and colors to complement donut Making this necklace is a A variety of 4–6mm accent beads good way to use up your in textures and colors to complement donut bead soup or leftover 2 size 5° seed beads beads. The design was 2" stone donut inspired by Anna Karena Toggle clasp 72" of .010 Soft Touch beading Tollin’s beautiful necklace wire on the cover of Beadwork Size B or D Nymo thread in color Creates Necklaces to complement beads Thread Heaven thread conditioner (Interweave Press, 2002). tools This design is different, Size 10 or 12 beading needle however, because it uses Scissors a donut instead of a Wire cutters vessel as a pendant, and technique Free-form peyote stitch it is worked vertically in Stringing peyote stitch rather than Knotting horizontally. Finished Size 24"

First Wire Figure 2 Step 1: Use 36" of wire to string enough size 11°s to fit across the stone Step 3: Use each wire end to string 3" donut. Pass through the center of the of seed beads. Use both ends to string donut and slide all the beads to the 3 1 intersection bead, ⁄4" of size 8°s, and center of the wire. Pair the wire ends 1 size 5°. together to string 1 size 6°, forming a loop of seed beads against the donut. The loop should fit snugly around the Step 4: Snug all the beads toward donut’s radius with no spaces between the donut. Use one wire end to string Figure 3 the beads (Figure 1). one half of the clasp, then pass back Step 2: Use each wire to string 1–2" through the last size 5° strung. Pass of seed beads. Use both ends together the other wire end through the clasp to string 1 accent/intersection bead. (in the opposite direction of the first Repeat four to seven times for 8" of wire) and back through the last size (Figure 2) strung beads from the edge of the 5° strung . Snug the wires and donut. tie a surgeon’s knot. Pass back through several size 8°s to hide the knot; trim. Figure 4 Artist’s Tip Soft Touch beading wire Peyote Stitching is great for this project Step 5: Leaving a 6" tail, secure 3' because it enables of conditioned thread near the first strung beads to be intersection bead, exiting toward the combined with needle- donut. Use size 11°s to work peyote woven seed beads stitch down one of the strands of beads, bead, string 1 bead before passing down without compromising through the hole, and then up the other through the first bead on the other strength. The .010 size strand until you reach the intersection strand (Figure 4). Begin working free- of Soft Touch will pass bead (Figure 3). form peyote stitch down the strand until through size 11° seed you reach the donut (see Free-Form beads and still allow Step 6: If the thread is exiting the Peyote Stitch box on page 10). Work room for a needle and bead right next to the accent beads, regular peyote stitch around the donut, at least a couple more pass down through the first bead on then continue with free-form peyote passes of thread. the other strand; if the thread is exit- stitch back up the other strand. Work ing the second bead before the accent free-form down the first strand again,

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at shop.beadingdaily.com/jewelryprojects © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. page 9 regular around the donut, and free-form Beads rescued TINA KOYAMA from the shackles up the second strand. Repeat, this time of corporate America. She is now repaying beads the skipping the donut, to work just the first favor by devoting as much time as possible to work- section above the donut. Work a total of ing with them in Seattle, Washington. View more of six or more rows on each strand. When Tina’s work at www.tinakoyama.com. you are satisfied with the way the section looks, pass up through the intersec- Resources tion bead (Figure 5). Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads, accent beads, and clasp: Contact your local bead shop Step 7: Work six rows of free-form or Fusion Beads, www.fusionbeads peyote stitch along each strand of .com. beads in the second section as you did before, then pass up through the next intersection bead. Repeat for each of Designer’s Notes the loops between the intersection Each piece of wire is doubled to beads. For the last 3" strands, use size form one side of the necklace. To 11°s to work three to five rows of flat shorten or lengthen the necklace, peyote stitch. adjust the wires accordingly. I recommend that the peyote side Second Wire of the necklace be worked before Step 8: Repeat Steps 1–4 to create the the strung side because there will second side of the necklace, but instead be less beadwork to get in your of stringing seed beads, use the mix way while you are working the of 4–6mm beads. After stringing four peyote stitches. Also, the inherent intersection beads, check the length buckling and twisting of free-form by holding the strung side next to the peyote stitch sometimes changes completed peyote-stitched side. String the length of the work slightly, so the last length of beads so that the two you may need to adjust the length sides of the necklace match. of the strung side to match the Figure 5 length of the peyote-stitched side.

Free-form Peyote Stitch Tips • Work the colors randomly to prevent a striped or checkerboard effect. To give the necklace a cohesive look, incorporate into the peyote stitch some of the large beads that you plan to place on the strung side. • One beauty of free-form peyote stitch is that there is no such thing as a mistake! The only hard-and-fast rules with free-form peyote stitch are: 1) Avoid exposing thread; 2) Always pass through “up” beads and Figure 6 skip over “down” beads (Figure 6). • When you place larger beads in a space made up of size 11°s or 8°s, string one or more size 11°s on either side of the larger bead. Doing so reduces the amount of thread that can show between the beads if the larger bead doesn’t fit exactly into the space (Figure 7). • In general, use small beads to avoid exposing thread and fill spaces where there is too much tension (for example, when a bead is much larger than the beads on either side). You can always use two or more Figure 7 beads instead of one if they fit better in the available space.

Materials Focal donut bead 10–16 donuts 20–32 large-holed 3mm beads Two 40" lengths of leather cord Clasp with split rings

This necklace works up so fast, you can make it while your hair dries. Stone donuts are available by the bagful, so you can sort them by size and color to find gradations for a variety of looks from a single bag.

Figure 1

Figure 3

Step 1: Arrange your donuts in the the donut to the back. String one 3mm donuts and the clasp. You will need at symmetrical order that they will be on what is now the front cord (Figure 2). least one inch of space for tying off the strung, with the focal bead in the center. Tie a square knot. end. Fold one cord against the necklace Step 2: String the focal bead on one Step 4: Repeat Step 3 until you reach and use the other cord to cover it with of the cords. Slide it to the center and the end of one side of the necklace. half-hitch knots down to the donut (Fig- tie a square knot. The knot will sit String the clasp at the end, passing both ure 3). Trim the ends close to the work. perpendicular to the edge of the bead cords through the split ring and tying a Repeat for the other side. to give you a back cord and a front cord loose half-hitch knot. (Figure 1). Step 5: Repeat from Step 2 for the Dustin Wedekind was the managing editor Step 3: String the next donut with the other side of the necklace. of Beadwork. Special thanks to Andrea Adams for back cord. String one 3mm bead on the Step 6: Check the necklace for fit, the gift of the skull bead, which inspired this use of a bag of donuts. front cord. Pass the front cord through adjusting the lengths between the last

This bohemian-style necklace is Materials 5 g silver size 13° charlottes a fun and stylish collage of both 3 g assorted size 11° seed beads materials and techniques. The to match turquoise 14 turquoise 4×6mm glass tear- result is a free-spirited design that drops employs off-loom beadweaving, 30–40 assorted 3–6mm accent wireworking, knotting, and beads (silver, pearl, crystal, glass, etc.) stringing. 3 clear/blue/yellow 4×9mm lampworked borosilicate (boro) rondelles 4 clear/blue/yellow 8mm boro drops 2 blue 10×16mm twisted porcelain spatter beads 3 semiprecious turquoise 12mm nuggets 1 semiprecious turquoise 40×52×6mm slice 11 sterling silver 6mm twisted wire spacers 1 4 sterling silver 2 ⁄2" head pins 9 sterling silver 6mm soldered jump rings FireLine 6 lb beading thread 16" of 2mm brown leather cord 2' of sterling silver 22-gauge wire 2' of sterling silver 24-gauge wire

Tools Size 13 beading needle Round-nose pliers Chain-nose pliers Wire cutters

technique Right-angle weave Ladder Stitch Wireworking Knotting

Finished size 23" (with 2½" focal)

Figure 3

Figure 1

1: Bezel. Using 3' of thread and 8 charlottes per unit, make a 4-unit-wide strip 3: Embellished jump rings. Use of right-angle weave that fits the circum- 2" of 22-gauge wire and one 4×6mm tear- ference of the turquoise slice snugly. drop to form a wrapped-loop bail that Figure 4 Join: Exiting up through the last unit at the attaches to 1 jump ring (Figure 3). Make a end of the strip, string 2 charlottes and second dangle that attaches to the same pass down through the mirrored beads ring. Repeat for a total of 7 teardrop jump at the first row of the strip. String 2 char- rings; set aside. lottes and pass up through the 2 char- Use 1 head pin to string 1 charlotte and lottes you originally exited. Weave 1 turquoise nugget; form a wrapped loop through the beads to exit down through that attaches to one of the teardrop jump the side beads of the next unit on the end rings. Repeat twice to add nugget dangles Figure 5 of the strip (Figure 1). Continue to com- to 2 other teardrop jump rings; set these plete the right-angle-weave units down teardrop/nugget jump rings aside. the edge to connect the strip into a tube. String 1 charlotte and 1 accent bead on Exit from a pair of charlottes at the bot- a head pin and form a wrapped loop that tom of the tube. attaches to a jump ring; set this accent jump ring aside. Back: Weave through all the beads at the bottom of the tube several times, pull- 4: Center section. Cut 8" of cord and tie an overhand loop: Fold the cord 3" from ing tightly to cup the beadwork. Tie a Figure 6 knot between beads to secure the one end; tie an overhand knot with the tip shaping. Place the turquoise slice of the fold, tightening the cord to form a 1 inside. ⁄2" loop and leaving a short tail (Figure 4). the cord, around the back (Figure 5), Front: Weave through the beads to exit String 3 silver spacers, the beaded bail, and and over the front. Bring the wire down from a pair of charlottes at the top of 3 silver spacers. Tie an overhand loop at the along the other side of the bead, cross the tube. Weave through the beads end of the cord so that this section is about over the front of the cord, around the as before, pulling tightly so the slice 3" long. Trim any excess cord. Set aside. back, and over the front (Figure 6). is surrounded by the beadwork. Tie a 5: Right section. Cut 8" of cord and Repeat wrapping four or more times; knot between beads to secure the tie an overhand loop as before at one do not trim the wire. 3 shaping; trim the thread close to the end. String 1 porcelain bead to about ⁄4" Seed wrap: Use the wire tail to string 5" work. from the knot. Leaving a 1" tail, coil the of seed beads; wrap the beaded wire end of the 24-gauge wire around the cord around the cord to make a few coils 2: Bail. Use a comfortable length of between the bead and the knot five or six at one end of the porcelain bead. thread and charlottes to make a strip of times, moving the wraps up toward the Bring the wire behind the porcelain ladder stitch 2 beads wide by 8 beads long. bead; trim the wire tail and use chain-nose bead and repeat at the other end, Sew the ends of the strip to the place on pliers to squeeze the wire into the cord. adding beads as necessary. When fin- the bezel that would best suit the bail (Fig- Herringbone wrap: Holding the bead close ished wrapping, remove any extra ure 2). Reinforce the connection, secure to the coil, bring the wire up along the seed beads left on the wire and wrap the thread, and trim close to the work. side of the bead, cross over the front of the plain wire around the cord to

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at shop.beadingdaily.com/jewelryprojects © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. page 14 secure. Trim the wire tail and use 7: Assembly. Cut 12" of thread and chain-nose pliers to squeeze the wire string 20 size 11°s, leaving a 3" tail. Pass into the cord. through an end loop of the beaded cord. Use the cord tail to tie an overhand Pass through the seed beads again to knot next to the seed beads, then form a loop and tie a square knot to 1 string 1 boro drop, 1 teardrop jump secure. String 1 ⁄2" of assorted accent ring, 1 silver spacer, 1 rondelle, 1 silver beads. String 20 size 11°s and pass spacer, 1 teardrop jump ring, and 1 through an end loop of the center sec- boro drop. Tie an overhand loop as tion. Pass back through the seed beads before close to the beads and trim any again to make a loop and tie a square excess cord. knot to secure. Weave through all the seed and accent beads one or two more 6: Left section. Cut a 12" length of times to reinforce. Secure the thread cord and tie an overhand loop at one and trim close to the work. Repeat to end. String 1 silver spacer, 1 porcelain join the other end of the beaded cord bead, and 1 silver spacer; tie an over- and the center section, making the hand knot close to the beads. String 1 accent bead sequence 3" long. rondelle, 1 silver spacer, and 1 rondelle; 1 tie an overhand knot ⁄2" after the Marcella Austenfeld began beading beads. String {1 teardrop/nugget jump eight years ago in those luxurious days of spare ring, 1 teardrop jump ring, and 1 boro time. Now she’s a stay-at-home mom who spends drop} twice. String 1 teardrop/nugget her days chasing two boys about the Oakland hills. jump ring. Marcella can be reached at [email protected]. Join: String the remaining plain jump ring and the end nearest the dangles on the right knotted section; pass Resources Check your local bead shop back through the jump ring and tie or contact: Charlottes and an overhand knot that incorporates FireLine: Beads and Beyond, the accent jump ring; trim any excess (425) 468-8992. Turquoise cord (Figure 7). Set the beaded cord slice and nuggets: Kameyab aside. Imports, (505) 821-6217, www. kibeads.com. Seed beads, jump rings, and leather cord: Baubles and Beads, (510) 644- BEAD, www.baublesandbeads. com. Porcelain spatter beads: Cocopah, (928) 282-4928, www. beadofthemonthclub.com. Turquoise teardrops: The Garden of Beadin’, (707) 923-9120, www. Figure 7 gardenofbeadin.com. Borosilicate beads: Unicorne Beads, (800) 833- 2095, www.unicornegifts.com.

Create your own lush chain by connecting links made with gemstone beads as Denise did in this fabulous agate-and-brass necklace design.

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at shop.beadingdaily.com/jewelryprojects © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. page 16 Step 1: Use 2" of wire to form a STEp 6: Use one 7.25mm jump ring to wrapped loop. String 1 agate oval; form attach one end of 1 agate link to one a wrapped loop. Repeat entire step end of another agate link. *Use one forty times for a total of 41 agate links. 7.25mm jump ring to attach the other sTep 2: Use 1 head pin to string 1 end of the previous link to one end of agate oval; form a wrapped loop that another agate link. Repeat from * seven attaches to one end of 1 link. times to make a chain 10 links long. Step 3: Use 1 head pin to string 1 Repeat entire step to make a second agate oval; form a wrapped loop. chain. Repeat eight times for a total of 9 agate Step 7: Place the chains side by side dangles. on your work surface. Use one 7.25mm Step 4: Use one 4.75mm jump ring to jump ring to attach the first jump attach 1 agate dangle to the wrapped ring in the first chain to the first jump loop formed in Step 2. Use one 4.75mm ring in the second chain; repeat eight jump ring to attach 2 agate dangles to times. Attach one 15mm jump ring to the same end of the agate link used in the free end of the agate link on one Step 2. Attach one 4.75mm jump ring to end of each chain. Attach one 7.25mm 1 agate dangle. Use one 4.75mm jump jump ring to the free end of 1 agate link Materials ring to attach the previous jump ring on the other end of the chain; repeat. 51 assorted earth-toned 7×7–10mm and 1 agate dangle to the same end of Attach one 7.25mm jump ring to the 2 agate ovals the agate link, this time closing the previous 7.25mm jump rings. Use one 1 cream/gold/bronze 36×35mm ceramic pendant jump ring around the wrapped wire 10mm jump ring to attach the previous 1 brass 5×14mm lobster clasp between the bottom of the agate oval 7.25mm jump ring to the top-right hole 10 brass 21-gauge 2" head pins and the loop with the attached dangles. of the ceramic pendant. 9 brass 4.75mm jump rings Step 5 Attach one 4.75mm jump ring Step 8: Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for the 60 brass 7.25mm jump rings to 1 agate dangle; repeat. Attach one other half of the necklace. Use one 3 brass 10mm jump rings 4.75mm jump ring to 2 agate dangles. 4.75mm jump ring to attach the lobster 2 brass 15mm jump rings Attach one 4.75mm jump ring to one clasp to one of the 15mm jump rings. 82" of brass 24-gauge wire of the previous dangles. Use one 10mm Tools jump ring to attach the previous jump Resources: Wire cutters ring, the top loop of the agate link used Contact your local bead shop for 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers in Step 4, and the jump rings attached to more information. Agate: Fire Round-nose pliers the agate dangles earlier in this step to Mountain Gems and Beads. Pen- Finished size the bottom hole of the ceramic pendant. dant: Earthenwood Studio. All 20¼" Set aside. brass findings: Vintaj Natural Brass Co. (wholesale only).

Wireworking Ladder stitch To make a simple loop, grasp one end of the wire with round-nose pliers. Holding on to the wire with one hand, gently turn the pliers until the wire end and wire body touch. Create a 90° reverse bend where they meet. For a wire-wrapped loop, cut the desired length of wire and make a 90° bend 2" For a single-needle ladder, string 2 beads from one end. Use round-nose pliers to and pass through them again. String 1 hold the wire near the angle and bend the bead. Pass through the last stitched bead short end up and around the pliers until it and the one just strung. Repeat, adding 1 meets itself. Wrap the wire tightly down bead at a time and working in a figure- the neck of the wire to create a couple of eight pattern. Use this stitch to make coils. Trim the excess to finish. strings of beads or as the foundation for brick and herringbone stitches.

Knotting Right-Angle Weave (Double Needle) A square knot is the classic Using one needle on each end of the thread, string 3 beads to the cen- sturdy knot suitable for most ter of the thread.*Use one needle to string 1 bead, then pass the other stringing materials. Make an needle back through it. String 1 bead on each needle, then repeat from * to form a chain of right-angle units (A). overhand knot, passing the To turn at the end of the row, use the left needle to string 3 beads, then right end over the left end. cross the right needle back through the last bead strung (B). Use the Make another overhand knot, right needle to string 3 beads, then cross the left needle back through this time passing the left end the last bead strung (C). To continue the row, use the right needle to over the right end. Pull tight. string 2 beads; pass the left needle through the next bead on the previous row and back through the last bead strung (D).

Start

Stringing Stringing is a technique in which D you use beading wire, needle C and thread, or other material to A B gather beads into a strand.