©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Duncan Garwood Many thanks to the travellers who used the last A big thank you to Giacomo Bassi for his brilliant edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful tips and suggestions. In grazie to everyone advice and interesting anecdotes: who helped and offered advice, in particular Luisa Andy Miller, Christer Törnemo, Fred Thomas, Besalduch, Agostino Rivano, Marianna Mascalchi, Henrik Ott, John and Roxanne McCaffrey, Julia Valentina Sanna, Marco Vacca, and the tourist van den Berg, Kirsten Lee, Linda Bottari, Matthias office teams at Alghero, and Castelsardo. At Schwarz, Melanie Snell, Nicoline Beglinger, Nora LP, thanks to Anna Tyler for all her support. And, as Rademacher, Pete Towler, Peter Sagal, Philippe always, a big, heartfelt hug to Lidia and the boys, Funken, Robert Schwartz, Sarah Matthews. Ben and Nick.

WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Gregor Clark Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Sincere thanks to the many Sardinians who so gen- Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and erously shared their time, insights and love of the Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. island, particularly Mario and Frédérique in , Cover photograph: Costa del Sud, Daria in Santa Teresa, Simonetta in Olbia, Riky in Pawel Kazmierczak/Shutterstock © , Laura in San Pantaleo, and Kevin and Rodolfo in Palau. Finally, hugs to my wife, Gaen, and daughters, Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip. Kerry Christiani Mille grazie to all the Sardinian locals, experts and tourism officials who made the road to research so smooth and provided such valuable insight for the Plan Your Trip and Understand chapters. Big thanks, too, go to my fellow authors – Duncan Garwood and Gregor Clark – for being such stars to work with. 280 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK Damien Simonis. This Book Designer Gwen Cotter guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Andrew This sixth edition of Lonely the following: Bain, Heather Champion, Planet’s Sardinia guidebook Destination Editor Anna Tyler Gabby Innes, Helen Koehne, was researched and written by Product Editors Ronan Simon Williamson Gregor Clark, Kerry Christiani Abayawickrema, Amanda Cover Researcher Naomi and Duncan Garwood. The Williamson Parker previous edition was written by Regional Senior Thanks to Nigel Chin, Victoria Kerry Christiani and Duncan Cartographer Anthony Phelan Harrison, Lauren Keith, Sandie Garwood, and earlier editions Corey Kestell, Kate Kiely, Genna were written by Duncan Senior Cartographer Hutchison Patterson, Angela Tinson Garwood, Paula Hardy and ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281

Index

A Arbus 144 Argentiera 131 Poetto beach 45 Abbisso delle Vergini 200 archaeological sites 18 189-90 Putzu Idu 99 adventure sports 30-3, Anfiteatro Romano 47 arts 244-8, 2, 244, 246 Seconda 152 206, see also individual Area Archeologica di Arzachena 159-61 Sinis Peninsula 99 sports Tharros 101 Assemini 248, 246 Spiaggia Bidderosa 195 193 Complesso Nuragico ATMs 263 Spiaggia Cala Francese 201 Romanzesu 184 204 188 Dolmen Sa Coveccada 144 Spiaggia Capriccioli 156 198 Domus de Jana Bidua 199 B Spiaggia Centrale 193 Baia Sardinia 158 agriturismi 19, 194 Fonte Sacra Su Spiaggia Costa Rei 65 Barbagia 184-90 air travel 266, 267 Tempiesu 184 Spiaggia del Grande & Monte d’Accoddi 142 Barumini 87-8 Alghero 11, 38, 111-25, 118, Piccolo Pevero 156 Basilica di Santa Giusta 97 120-1, 11 Museo Antiquarium Spiaggia del Lazzaretto Turritano & Area accommodation 111 Bastione di Saint Remy 44, 126 Archeologica 133 , activities 116 57 172 Spiaggia del Principe 156 Necropoli di Anghelu bathrooms 264 beaches 116 Spiaggia della Pelosa 130 Ruju 127 201-3 climate 111 Spiaggia dell’Arco 104 Necropoli di Montessu 77 beaches 18, 33 drinking 122-3 Spiaggia delle Bombarde Necropoli di Sant’Andrea Berchida 195 126 driving 115 Priu 144 Cala Battistoni 158 Spiaggia delle Rose 204 eating 117-18 Nuraghe Arrubiu 191 Cala Biriola 194 Spiaggia di Maria Pia 116 entertainment 123 Nuraghe di Palmavera Cala Brandinchi 154 Spiaggia di Marina di events 117 127-8 Cala Cartoe 200 Arborea 97 festivals 117 Nuraghe di Santa Cristina Cala d’Ambra 154 Spiaggia di Masua 73-4, 5 food 111, 117, 119, 121-2 105-6 Cala Domestica Beach Spiaggia di Piscinas 75 highlights 112-13, 112-13 Nuraghe Is Paras 191 73-4 Spiaggia di Platamona history 114 Nuraghe Losa 106 Cala Fico 81 142 information 124 Nuraghe Maiori 171 Cala Fuili 192 Spiaggia di Portixeddu 74 nightlife 122-3 Nuraghe Mannu 193 Cala Ginepro 195 Spiaggia di Porto Ferro shopping 123-4 Nuraghe Santu Antine 143 Cala Giunco 64 129 sights 114-16 Nuraghe 87-8 Cala Goloritzè 196 Spiaggia di San Giovanni tours 116-17 Pranu Mutteddu 191 116 Cala Liberotto 195 travel seasons 111 Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Spiaggia di Scivu 75 Carros 197 Cala Luna 192 travel to/from 124-5 Spiaggia Is Scogliu Santuario Santa Cala Mariolu 194 travel within 125 Arrubius 204 Vittoria 190 Cala Sisine 194 Altopiano del Golgo, the Spiaggia Isporoddai 195 Serra Orrios 200 Caletta di Osalla 195 201-3 Spiaggia La Bobba 81 Tempio di Antas 86 Capo Coda Cavallo 154 antipasti 194, 251 Spiaggia La Caletta 81 Tempio di Malchittu 160 Funtanamare Beach 73 aquariums Spiaggia La Cinta 154 Terme Romane 107 Is Arenas 104 Acquario di Cala Spiaggia Le Saline 131 Is Aruttas 99 Gonone 193 Tiscali 9, 199, 200-1, 9 Spiaggia Liscia Ruia 156 Isola di Mal di Ventre 99 Arbatax 203-4 Villa di Tigellio 50 Spiaggia Mugoni 129 Isola di San Pietro 81 Arborea 97 Arcipelago di La Maddalena Spiaggia Musculedda 204 167-70, Lu Impostu 154 168 Spiaggia Orri 204 Ardara 143 Marina di Gairo 204 Spiaggia Osalla 195 Area Archeologica di , 194 Map Pages 000 Spiaggia Palmasera 193 Tharros 101 Plage Mesu 73 Photo Pages 000 Spiaggia Piscina Rei 65 area codes 17, 264 282 beaches continued courses 54 Grotta del Bue Marino Chiesa di San Giacomo Spiaggia Prima 152 drinking 59-60 192 195 Spiaggia Rena Bianca 162 entertainment 60 Grotta di Ispinigoli 200 Chiesa di San Lucifero 51 Spiaggia Romazzino 156 events 54 Grotta di Nettuno 13, Chiesa di San Marcello Spiaggia Simius 64 festivals 54 128, 13 19, 19 Spiaggia Sos Dorroles 193 food 40, 54-65 Grotta di Sa Ohe 197 Chiesa di San Michele

INDEX INDEX Grotta di Su Marmuri 44, 115 Spiaggia Su Barone 195 highlights 42, 42 205-6 Chiesa di San Paolo Terza 152 history 41-3 caving 72 (Milis) 104 Belvedere 73 information 62 Chiesa di San Paolo

B-C cell phones 16, 264-  Berchidda 176 itineraries 41 Cittadella dei Musei 50 (Olbia) 148 bicycle travel, see cycling nightlife 59-60 Chiesa di San Pietro 202 cheese 202, 251  birdwatching 54 shopping 60-2 Chiesa di San Francesco Chiesa di San Pietro di blogs 226 sights 43-52 115 Simbranos 143 boat tours 32, 116-17 tours 54 children, travel with 34-6 Chiesa di San Salvatore Alghero 116 100 travel to/from 62-3 churches & cathedrals Arcipelago di La Chiesa di San travel within 63 Basilica della Santissima Maddalena 158, 167 Sebastiano 195 Cala Domestica Beach 73 Trinità di Saccargia Buggerru 74 Cala Goloritzè 196 143 Chiesa di San Simplicio 148 53 Cala Gonone 191-4 Basilica di San Gavino Chiesa di Santa Maria Cala Gonone 193 Campanile (Alghero) 114-15 132 (Castelsardo) 134 Cannigione 158 Cannigione 158-9 Basilica di San Pietro di Chiesa di Santa Maria 78 Isola dell’Asinara 133 Sorres 143 Cantine Surrau 159 (Tratalias) Isola di San Pietro 79-80 Capo Caccia 128-30 Basilica di San Saturnino 47 Chiesa di Santa Maria Isola Tavolara 153 Capo Carbonara 64 delle Grazie 67 Basilica di Santa Giusta Palau 166 Capo Sandalo 81 97 Chiesa di Santa Maria Parco Nazionale Capo Testa 162, 164, 173 del Regno 143 dell’Asinara 131 Basilica di Santa Maria car travel 28-9, 125, 269-70 della Neve 103 Chiesa di Santa Maria di Santa Teresa di Gallura car hire 28 Betlem 137 162 Basilica Santa Maria dei driving conditions 28 Martiri 188 Chiesa di Santa Maria Villasimius 64 (Oliena) 197 parking 29 Cattedrale books 230, 243, 247, Chiesa di Sant’Anna 46 Carbonia 76-7 dell’Immacolata 107-8 255, 257 Chiesa di Sant’Antioco di Carloforte 79-81 Chiesa di San Bosa 12, 106-10, 108, 3, 12 Bisarcio 143 Carlotto, Massimo 61 Francesco 115 activities 108-9 Chiesa di Santa Teresa Carnevale 21 Chiesa di San Leonardo drinking 110 de Siete Fuentes 102 d’Avila 88 Caruso, Andrea 238 events 109 Cattedrale di San Pietro Chiesa di Sant’Efisio Cascata Sa Spendula 75 festivals 109 171 47, 86 Castello di Acquafredda 77 food 109-10 Cattedrale di San Pietro Chiesa di Santo Sepolcro 47 information 110 Castello Malaspina 106-7, 3 Extramuros 107 Chiesa di Stella Maris nightlife 110 Castelsardo 134-5, 13, 19 Cattedrale di Santa 156 sights 106-8 castles Chiara 67 Chiesa di San Michele di travel to/from 110 Castello (Castelsardo) Cattedrale di Santa Maria 44 Salvènero 143 bread 250-1 134-5 Cattedrale di Santa Duomo (Sassari) 136-7 Budelli 169, 170 Castello di Acquafredda 77 Maria della Neve 182 Santuario & Basilica budget 17 Castello di Marmilla 88 Cattedrale di Sant’Anto- di Nostra Signora di bus travel 29, 268-9 Bonaria 45 Castello di San Michele nio Abate 134 business hours 263 51 Chiesa della Solitudine Santuario di Santa Maria 182 Madonna di Bonacattu Castello Malaspina 102 106-7, 3 Chiesa del Purgatorio 171 C climate 16, 40, 260, , Chiesa del Rosario 195 16 Cabras 98-100 Il Castello (Cagliari) 10, see also individual Cagliari 40-63, 48-9, 52, 43, 10 Chiesa di Nostra Signora locations casumarzu 251 di Castro 143 56-7, 240, 243 31, 72, 173 Chiesa di Nostra Signora accommodation 40 cathedrals, see churches & Bruncu Pranedda 205 cathedrals di Tergu 134 activities 53, 59 Cala Gonone 193 Cattedrale di Santa Chiesa di San Antonio Maria 44 195 eastern Sardinia 186 Cavalcata Sarda 22 Chiesa di San Francesco Gola Su Gorropu 198 Map Pages 000 caves 67, 115 Isola Tavolara 153 Photo Pages 000 Grotta Corbeddu 197 Chiesa di San Gavino 188 La Poltrona 193 283 Porto Conte 129 Domusnovas 72 Festa di Sant’Efisio 21, H 206 Dorgali 198-201 54, 56, 172, 243, 244 handcrafts 135, 144, 247, coastal walks 19-20, see drinks 254-7, 261, see food 78-9, 80, 117, 189 248, 248 also cycling also wine literature 104 health 261-2 coffee 254-5 driving licences 269 music 80, 176 18-19, 30-1, 59, 73 Compendio Garibaldino Duomo (Sassari) 136-7 Sa Sartiglia 21, 96 Baunei 202, 202-3 169 Sagra del Torrone 185 Bruncu Spina 189 INDEX Complesso Nuragico Shrove Tuesday in Cagliari 59 Romanzesu 184 E 185 Cala Goloritzè 196 consulates 261 eastern Sardinia 177, 184, Time in Jazz 22, 176 C 178-9 Capo Testa 162 contemporary art 248  -I  economy 226-7 wine 78-9, 105, 258 Galtelli 196 cookery classes 257-8 electricity 261 films 226, 237 Gola Su Gorropu 11, coral 126 fish 253 Elephant Rock, 135, 19 199, 11 Corso Repubblica 185, 15 embassies 261 folk dancing 246, 246 Iglesiente coast 73 Costa del Sud 84-5 emergencies 17 188-9 Isola Tavolara 153 Costa Rei 65 etiquette 256 Fonte Sacra Su Tempiesu 102 Costa Smeralda 10, 38, 145, 184 events 21-2 Oliena 198 155-61, 146-7, 10 food 15, 20, 249-58, 261, exchange rates 17 Selvaggio Blu 192 Costa Verde 75-6 , , , 15 249 252 255 199 credit cards 263 Exmà 51 see also individual Tiscali 199 Cripta di Santa locations Ulassai 205 Restituta 47 antipasti 89, 103 F hilltop towns & villages 13, Cuglieri 103 fairy houses 77, 229 cheese 202, 251 20, 13 culture 240-3 Museo Nazionale Sanna festivals 21-2, 80, 117, 189 historic cities 20 culurgiones 252, 249 136 history 228-39 currency 16 Necropoli di Anghelu Gallurese 150 Aragonese invasion 234 customs regulations 260 Ruju 127 markets 61, 104, 119, 138-9, 197 banditry 237 cycling 19-20, 29, 31, Necropoli di Montessu Carthaginians 230-2 125, 267 77 seafood 117, 152, 15 Facism 236 Alghera to Bosa 125 Pranu Mutteddu 190 sweets 253 Habsburg rule 234-5 Bosa 108 Roccia dell’Elefante Fordongianus 107 Medieval era 232-4 203 135, 19 mining boom 235-6 Isola di San Pietro 81 ferry travel 267-8 Fertilia 126-7 G period 228-9 Isola Maddalena 167 galleries, see museums & nuraghic civilisation San Teodoro 155 Festa della Madonna del galleries Naufrago 22 229-30 Ulassai 206 Gallura 38, 161-70, 146-7 Festa dell’Assunta 22 Palaeolithic period 228-9 Valle Di Lanaittu 197 Galtelli 196 Festa di San Phoenicians 230 gardens, see parks & Salvatore 22 gardens Piedmontese rule 234-5 Festa di Santa Maria del D Garibaldi, Giuseppe 235 politics 237-8 dance 246, Mare 22 246 Gavoi 188 Roman era 231-2 d’Arborea, Eleonora 233 Festa di Sant’Antioco 21 gay travellers 261 Spanish conquest 233-4 Desalo 188, 189 Festa di Sant’Antonio Abate tourism 238-9 21, 187 Genna ‘e Silana 202 disabilities, travellers WWI 237 Festa di Sant’Efisio 21, 54, Ghetto degli Ebrei 51 with 265 WWII 238 56, 172, 243, 244 Giants of Monte Prama 98 diving 33, 65 hitching 270 festivals 14, 21-2, 246, Girotonno 22 Alghero 116 holidays 264 14, 56, 243, 244 Gola Su Gorropu 11, 199, 11 Bosa 108 Homer 231 see also individual Golfo Aranci 152, 146-7 Cala Gonone 193 locations horse-racing 13, 105, Golfo di Orosei 8-9, 191-6, Golfo Aranci 152 Carnevale 21 185, 246 8-9 Isola di San Pietro 79 horse-riding 31, 97, 154, Cavalcata Sarda 22 Grotta Corbeddu 197 Isola Tavolara 153 169 Festa dell’Incoronazione Grotta di Ispinigoli 200 Pelosa 131 della Madonna di Grotta di Nettuno 13, Poltu Quatu 157 Gonare 185 128, 13 I Santa Teresa di Gallura Festa di Sant’Antioco I Candelieri 22 162-3 21, 187 Grotta di San Michele 141 Grotta di Sa Ohe 197 Iglesias 37, 66-72, 68-9, dolci 253, 254, 255 Festa di Sant’Antonio Grotta di Su Marmuri 70, 19 San Teodoro 154 Abate 21, 187 205-6 accommodation 66 dolphin-watching 32 climate 66 284 Iglesias continued San Teodoro 154 Museo Nivola 188 Area Archeologica di events 71 Sinis Peninsula 99 museums & galleries 46, Sant’Eulalia 46 festivals 71 Stintino 130 Casa Zapata 88 Museo del Vino 176 food 66, 71 knives 144 Centro Comunale d’Arte Museo Domus de Janas 134 highlights 68-9, 68-9 e Cultura Il Ghetto 52 Museo Etnografico history 67 Centro di Documentazi-

INDEX INDEX L one sulla Sartiglia 92 Galluras 176 information 71 La Giara di Gesturi 88-9 Compendio Museo Etnografico Sa sights 67, 70-1 La Marmilla 86-90, 68-9 Garibaldino 169 Domo ‘e sos Marras travel seasons 66 Laconi 190 Ecomuseo della 196 I N travel to/from 71-2 lakes Montagna Sarda e del Museo Etnografico-  Iglesiente, the 72-6, 68-9 Lago Baratz 129 189 Sardo 181  Il Castello (Cagliari) 10, 43 Lago di Coghinas 143 Galleria Comunale Museo MAN 182 Il Golgo 201 Lago di Liscia 161 d’Arte 44 Museo Nazionale Sanna 136 immigration 266 Lago Lerno 142 Louise Alexander Gallery 156 Museo Nivola 188 Inland Oristano Province Pauli Mauri 88 105-6 Menhir Museum 190 Palazzo di Città 51 languages 16, 242-8 insurance 262 MUB Museo della Pinacoteca Carlo Lawrence, DH 238, 245 car 270 Bonifica 97 Contini 92 Le Prigionette Nature health 261-2 Museo Antiquarium Pinacoteca Nazionale 46 Reserve 128 Arborense 92 internet access 262 Pinacoteca Nazionale di legal matters 262-3 Museo Antiquarium Sassari 137 internet resources 17, 245, lesbian travellers 261 Turritano & Area 248, 253 Stazione dell’Arte Maria literature 247-8 Archeologica 133 Lai 206 islands 18, see also festivals 104, 188 Museo Archeologico individual locations Villaggio Minerario Logudoro, the 143 (Dorgali) 201 Rosas 80 Isola Budelli 169, 170 Lunissanti 21 Museo Archeologico music 244-5 Isola Caprera 168-9 (Ozieri) 141 festivals 22, 78, 80, 176 Isola Dei Gabbiani 170 Museo Archeologico Isola dell’Asinara 130-2, M (Sant’Antioco) 82 133, 13 malaria 232 Museo Archeologico- N Isola di San Pietro 79-81 187-8 Etnografico Palazzo Narcao Blues Festival Isola di Sant’Antioco 81-4 maps 263 Atzori 106 22, 78 Isola Maddalena 167-8, 168 Marceddi 97-8 Museo Archeologico Natale 22 Isola Razzoli 170 Marina di Torregrande 100 Navale 167 national parks & reserves Museo Archeologico Isola Santa Maria 169 masks 248, 2, 247 Capo Carbonara 64 Nazionale (Cagliari) 43 Isola Santo Stefano 169 Masua 72, 74, 5 Capo Figari 152 Museo Archeologico Isola Spargi 169 measures 265 Le Prigionette Nature Nazionale (Nuoro) 182 Reserve 128 Isola Tavolara 153 MEM 51 Museo Archeologico Olivastri Millenari di Isolotto di Ogliastra 205 Mediateca del (Olbia) 148 Santo Baltolu 161 itineraries 23-7, 23, 24, Mediterranea 51 Museo Casa Deriu 107 Parco di Porto Conte 130 25, 26-7 Milis 104-5 Museo Ciusa 181 Parco Nazionale del military 227 Museo Civico (Cabras) Golfo di Orosei e del mobile phones 16, 264 J 98 Gennargentu 191 206 modern art 248 Museo Civico (Isola di Parco Nazionale money 16, 17, 260, 263 San Pietro) 79 dell’Arcipelago di La Monte d’Accoddi 142 Museo d’Arte Siamese 51 Maddalena 167-70, K Monte 181-2 Museo del Coltello 168 kayaking 18, 30, 33 Monte Scoine 205 Sardo 76 Parco Nazionale Cala Gonone 193 Monti 176 Museo del Duomo 50 dell’Asinara 13, 130, 13 Cardedu 203 Montiferru 102-5 Museo Deleddiano 182 Riserva Naturale di 77 Gavoi 188 motorcycle travel 269-70 Museo della Brigata Stagno San Teodoro 154 Ogliastra 203 Museo Casa Deriu 107 Sassari 137 Necropoli di Montessu 77 Porto Pollo 170 Museo Civico (Cabras) Museo della Città 137 kitesurfing 32 98-9 Museo della Tecnologia newspapers 265 Gallura 162 Museo Etnografico Galluras Contadina 102 north coast 130-5, 112-13 Porto Pollo 170 176 Museo della Tonnara 131 northwestern Sardinia 111, Museo Etnografico Sardo Museo Delle Conce 107 125-44, 112-13 181 Museo delle Maschere Nuoro 38, 177-84, 180 Map Pages 000 Museo Nazionale Sanna Mediterranee 187 accommodation 177 Photo Pages 000 136 Museo del Tesoro e drinking 183 285 events 182 accommodation 91 Porto Conte 128-30, 126 shopping 165 festivals 182 climate 91 Porto Flavia 73 sights 162 food 177, 182-3 drinking 95 Porto Pino 84 travel to/from 165 highlights 178-9, 178-9 food 91, 94-5 Porto Pollo 170, 172 Santadi 78-9 history 180-1 highlights 93, 93 Porto San Paolo 153 Sant’Antioco 82-3 information 183 nightlife 95 132-3 Santu Lussurgiu 102-3, 144 nightlife 183 history 92 postal services 263-4 Santuario & Basilica di INDEX shopping 183 shopping 95 public holidays 264 Nostra Signora di Bonaria 45 sights 181-2 sights 92-4 Pula 85-6 travel to/from 183-4 travel seasons 91 Punta Salinas 202 Sarcidano 190-1, 178-9 N - 

Sardara 89-90  S Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 87-8, 12 Orosei 194-6 S’Ardia 22, 105 nuraghi 12, 160, 12 outdoor activities 18, 30-3, see also individual R Sardo 242 Domus de Jana Bidua radio 265 199 activities Sarrabus, the, 40, 63-5, 42 Rassegna del Vino Novello Ozieri 141-2 Sassari 135-41, La Prisgiona 160 22 138-9 drinking 140 Nuraghe Arrubiu 191 Rebeccu 144 entertainment 140 Nuraghe di Albucciu 160 P religion 227 events 138 Nuraghe di Santa Palau 165-6 festivals 21-2 Cristina 105-6 festivals 138 Palazzo Civico 50 Reserves, see national Nuraghe Is Paras 191 Palazzo di Città 51 parks and reserves food 138-40 Nuraghe Losa 106 Palazzo Viceregio 46 Riserva Naturale di Monte history 136 Nuraghe Maiori 171 Parco di Porto Conte 130 Arcosu 77 nightlife 140 Nuraghe Mannu 193 Parco Nazionale Riviera del Corallo 125-30, sights 136-8 Nuraghi Su Nuraxi dell’Arcipelago di La 126, 112-13, 126 travel to/from 140-1 87-8, 12 Maddalena 167,-8 168 Rocce Rosse 204 travel within 141 Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Parco Nazionale dell’Asi- Roccia dell’Elefante 135, 19 scenic drives Carros 197 nara 13, 130, 13 rock climbing, see climbing Alghera to Bosa 125 Serra Orrios 200 Parco Sardegna In Minia- Dorgali to Santa Maria tura 88 Navarrese 202 pardulas 253, 255 S Strada Panormaica della O Sa Coia Maurreddina 22 parks & gardens Costa del Sud 84-5 Ogliastra 203-6, 178-9 Giardino Sotto Le Sa Sartiglia 21, 96, 14 Tempio to Berchidda 175 Oasi di Seu 101 Mure 51 S’Abba Frisca 200 Sea Walls (Alghero) 114 Olbia 38, 145-52, 149 safe travel 264 Orto Botanico 47 seafood 253, 17, 152, 15 accommodation 145 Parco Colle Sagra degli Agrumi 21, 63 Selvaggio Blu 192 climate 145 Sant’Onofrio 182 Sagra delle Castagne 22 Seneghe 104 drinking 150 passports 266 Sagra del Redentore 22 Sennori 142 events 148 pasta 252 Sagra del Torrone 21 Serdiana 62 festivals 148 Pattada 144 sailing 33 Settimana Santa 21 food 145, 148-50 Piazza Eleonora Carloforte 79 Sinis Peninsula 14, highlights 146-7, 146 d’Arborea 92 Porto Conte 129 98-101, 14 history 148 Piazza Italia (Sassari) 136 Porto Pollo 170 smoking 265 information 151 Piazza Yenne 46 San Giovanni di Sinis 101 191 nightlife 150 planning Sanluri 90 142 shopping 150 activities 30-3 San Pantaleo 161 Soru, Renato 236 sights 148 budgeting 16-17, 46 San Salvatore 100-1 south coast 152-5, 146-7 travel seasons 145 calendar of events 21-2 San Sperate 51 Spiaggia della Pelosa 130 travel to/from 151 children, travel with 34-6 San Teodoro 153-5 Spiaggia di Masua 73-4, 5 travel within 152 internet resources 17 Santa Caterina di Pittinuri Spiaggia di Piscinas 75 Oliena 197-8 itineraries 23 103-4 spirits 256-7 olivastri 161 regions 37-8 Santa Giusta 97 Stintino 130-2 opening hours 263 Sardinia basics 16-17 Strada Panoramica della 14, 184-7, 15 travel seasons 16, 21-2, 16 204-5 Costa del Sud 84-5 Santa Teresa di Gallura festivals 185-6 poetry 245 street art 185, 15 162-5, 163 food 186 Poetto beach 45 Su Gologone 197-8 activities 162-3 events 185-6 Poltu Quatu 157 Sulcis 76-86, 68-9 drinking 164-5 sights 185 population 227 Supramonte 196-203, food 163-4 Oristano 14, 38, 91-6, porceddu 252, 252 178-9 information 165 94, 14 Porto Cervo 155-7 286 surfing 33 tourism 226-7 V western Sardinia 91, 96- sweets 253, 255 tourist information 264-5 vacations 264 110, 93 238 tours 270-1 Valle dei Nuraghi 142-4 windsurfing 32, 53, 172 traditional crafts 247, Valle della Luna 176 Alghero 116 248, 248 Valle di Lanaittu 197 Cagliari 52 T train travel 29, 32, 271 Chia 84 telephone services 16, 264 vegan travellers 257 INDEX INDEX Trenino Verde Tourist vegetarian travellers 257 Marina di Torregrande Tempio Pausania 144, 171- Train 32 100 5, 174, 172 villages, see hilltop towns transport 28-9 Pelosa 131 Tenute Olbios 151 & villages S Tratalias 77-8 Villaggio Minerario Rosas Porto Conte 129 W Tharros 101-  travel seasons 16, 21-2, 80 Porto Pollo 170 time 16, 264  16, 40 Villanovaforru 89 San Teodoro 154 Time in Jazz 22, 176 travel to/from Sardinia Villasimius 64-5 Sinis Peninsula 98, 99 tipping 263 266-7 visas 16, 265 wine 254, 255-6, see also Tiscali 9, 199, 200-1, 9 travel within Sardinia volunteering 265 wine-tasting toilets 264 267-71 festivals 22 tombe dei giganti 12, 160 trekking, see hiking tours 151 Coddu Ecchju 160 Trenino Verde Tourist W Sella e Mosca 127 Train 32 walking, see hiking Li Lolghi 160 vineyards 127, 151 TV 265 water sports 18, 32-3, 53, Li Muri 160 wineries 62, 78, 129, 154, 170, see also indi- S’Ena ‘e Thomes 200 171, 206 vidual water sports tombs, see tombe dei wine-tasting 32, 108, U weather 16, 260, see giganti 159, 176 Ulassai 205-6 also individual Torre di San Pancrazio 46 locations women travellers 265 Torre dei Corsari 75 weights 265 work 265 Tortolì 203-4

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Gregor Clark Curator, Oristano & the West; Olbia, Costa Smeralda & Gallura; Nuoro & the East Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles include , , Brazil, Costa Rica, Argentina, Portugal, and New England’s Best Trips, as well as coffee-table pictorials such as Food Trails, The USA Book and The LP Guide to the Middle of Nowhere.

Kerry Christiani Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photographer and Lonely Planet author, specialising in Central and Southern Europe. Based in Wales, she has authored/ co-authored more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles. An adventure addict, she loves mountains, cold places and true wilderness. She features her latest work at https://its-a-small-world.com and tweets @kerrychristiani. Kerry’s insatiable wanderlust has taken her to all seven continents – from the frozen wilderness of Antarctica to the Australian Outback – and shows no sign of waning. Her writing appears regularly in publications like Adventure Travel magazine and she is a Telegraph travel expert for and Wales. Kerry wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Duncan Garwood Cagliari & the Sarrabus, Iglesias & the Southwest, Alghero & the Northwest From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he largely dedicates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland, where’s he’s been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Romani hills outside , he’s clocked up endless kilometres exploring the country’s well-known des- tinations and far-flung reaches, working on the guidebooks Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont and & the . Other LP titles include Italy’s Best Trips, The Food Lover’s Guide to the World and Pocket Bilbao & San Sebastian. He also writes on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 6th edition – January 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 255 4 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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