Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Duncan Garwood Many thanks to the travellers who used the last A big thank you to Giacomo Bassi for his brilliant edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful tips and suggestions. In Sardinia grazie to everyone advice and interesting anecdotes: who helped and offered advice, in particular Luisa Andy Miller, Christer Törnemo, Fred Thomas, Besalduch, Agostino Rivano, Marianna Mascalchi, Henrik Ott, John and Roxanne McCaffrey, Julia Valentina Sanna, Marco Vacca, and the tourist van den Berg, Kirsten Lee, Linda Bottari, Matthias office teams at Alghero, Sassari and Castelsardo. At Schwarz, Melanie Snell, Nicoline Beglinger, Nora LP, thanks to Anna Tyler for all her support. And, as Rademacher, Pete Towler, Peter Sagal, Philippe always, a big, heartfelt hug to Lidia and the boys, Funken, Robert Schwartz, Sarah Matthews. Ben and Nick. WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Gregor Clark Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Sincere thanks to the many Sardinians who so gen- Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and erously shared their time, insights and love of the Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. island, particularly Mario and Frédérique in Nuoro, Cover photograph: Costa del Sud, Daria in Santa Teresa, Simonetta in Olbia, Riky in Pawel Kazmierczak/Shutterstock © Lotzorai, Laura in San Pantaleo, and Kevin and Rodolfo in Palau. Finally, hugs to my wife, Gaen, and daughters, Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip. Kerry Christiani Mille grazie to all the Sardinian locals, experts and tourism officials who made the road to research so smooth and provided such valuable insight for the Plan Your Trip and Understand chapters. Big thanks, too, go to my fellow authors – Duncan Garwood and Gregor Clark – for being such stars to work with. 280 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Damien Simonis. This Book Designer Gwen Cotter guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Andrew This sixth edition of Lonely the following: Bain, Heather Champion, Planet’s Sardinia guidebook Destination Editor Anna Tyler Gabby Innes, Helen Koehne, was researched and written by Product Editors Ronan Simon Williamson Gregor Clark, Kerry Christiani Abayawickrema, Amanda Cover Researcher Naomi and Duncan Garwood. The Williamson Parker previous edition was written by Regional Senior Thanks to Nigel Chin, Victoria Kerry Christiani and Duncan Cartographer Anthony Phelan Harrison, Lauren Keith, Sandie Garwood, and earlier editions Corey Kestell, Kate Kiely, Genna were written by Duncan Senior Cartographer Hutchison Patterson, Angela Tinson Garwood, Paula Hardy and ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281 Index A Arbus 144 Argentiera 131 Poetto beach 45 Abbisso delle Vergini 200 archaeological sites 18 Aritzo 189-90 Putzu Idu 99 adventure sports 30-3, Anfiteatro Romano 47 arts 244-8, 2, 244, 246 Seconda 152 206, see also individual Area Archeologica di Arzachena 159-61 Sinis Peninsula 99 sports Tharros 101 Assemini 248, 246 Spiaggia Bidderosa 195 Cala Gonone 193 Complesso Nuragico ATMs 263 Spiaggia Cala Francese Dorgali 201 Romanzesu 184 204 Gavoi 188 Dolmen Sa Coveccada 144 Spiaggia Capriccioli 156 Oliena 198 Domus de Jana Bidua 199 B Spiaggia Centrale 193 Baia Sardinia 158 agriturismi 19, 194 Fonte Sacra Su Spiaggia Costa Rei 65 Barbagia 184-90 air travel 266, 267 Tempiesu 184 Spiaggia del Grande & Monte d’Accoddi 142 Barumini 87-8 Alghero 11, 38, 111-25, 118, Piccolo Pevero 156 Basilica di Santa Giusta 97 120-1, 11 Museo Antiquarium Spiaggia del Lazzaretto Turritano & Area accommodation 111 Bastione di Saint Remy 44, 126 Archeologica 133 , activities 116 57 172 Spiaggia del Principe 156 Necropoli di Anghelu bathrooms 264 beaches 116 Spiaggia della Pelosa 130 Ruju 127 Baunei 201-3 climate 111 Spiaggia dell’Arco 104 Necropoli di Montessu 77 beaches 18, 33 drinking 122-3 Spiaggia delle Bombarde Necropoli di Sant’Andrea Berchida 195 126 driving 115 Priu 144 Cala Battistoni 158 Spiaggia delle Rose 204 eating 117-18 Nuraghe Arrubiu 191 Cala Biriola 194 Spiaggia di Maria Pia 116 entertainment 123 Nuraghe di Palmavera Cala Brandinchi 154 Spiaggia di Marina di events 117 127-8 Cala Cartoe 200 Arborea 97 festivals 117 Nuraghe di Santa Cristina Cala d’Ambra 154 Spiaggia di Masua 73-4, 5 food 111, 117, 119, 121-2 105-6 Cala Domestica Beach Spiaggia di Piscinas 75 highlights 112-13, 112-13 Nuraghe Is Paras 191 73-4 Spiaggia di Platamona history 114 Nuraghe Losa 106 Cala Fico 81 142 information 124 Nuraghe Maiori 171 Cala Fuili 192 Spiaggia di Portixeddu 74 nightlife 122-3 Nuraghe Mannu 193 Cala Ginepro 195 Spiaggia di Porto Ferro shopping 123-4 Nuraghe Santu Antine 143 Cala Giunco 64 129 sights 114-16 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 87-8 Cala Goloritzè 196 Spiaggia di San Giovanni tours 116-17 Pranu Mutteddu 191 116 Cala Liberotto 195 travel seasons 111 Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Spiaggia di Scivu 75 Carros 197 Cala Luna 192 travel to/from 124-5 Spiaggia Is Scogliu Santuario Santa Cala Mariolu 194 travel within 125 Arrubius 204 Vittoria 190 Cala Sisine 194 Altopiano del Golgo, the Spiaggia Isporoddai 195 Serra Orrios 200 Caletta di Osalla 195 201-3 Spiaggia La Bobba 81 Tempio di Antas 86 Capo Coda Cavallo 154 antipasti 194, 251 Spiaggia La Caletta 81 Tempio di Malchittu 160 Funtanamare Beach 73 aquariums Spiaggia La Cinta 154 Terme Romane 107 Is Arenas 104 Acquario di Cala Spiaggia Le Saline 131 Is Aruttas 99 Gonone 193 Tiscali 9, 199, 200-1, 9 Spiaggia Liscia Ruia 156 Isola di Mal di Ventre 99 Arbatax 203-4 Villa di Tigellio 50 Spiaggia Mugoni 129 Isola di San Pietro 81 Arborea 97 Arcipelago di La Maddalena Spiaggia Musculedda 204 167-70, Lu Impostu 154 168 Spiaggia Orri 204 Ardara 143 Marina di Gairo 204 Spiaggia Osalla 195 Area Archeologica di Orosei, 194 Map Pages 000 Spiaggia Palmasera 193 Tharros 101 Plage Mesu 73 Photo Pages 000 Spiaggia Piscina Rei 65 area codes 17, 264 282 beaches continued courses 54 Grotta del Bue Marino Chiesa di San Giacomo Spiaggia Prima 152 drinking 59-60 192 195 Spiaggia Rena Bianca 162 entertainment 60 Grotta di Ispinigoli 200 Chiesa di San Lucifero 51 Spiaggia Romazzino 156 events 54 Grotta di Nettuno 13, Chiesa di San Marcello Spiaggia Simius 64 festivals 54 128, 13 19, 19 Spiaggia Sos Dorroles 193 food 40, 54-65 Grotta di Sa Ohe 197 Chiesa di San Michele INDEX Grotta di Su Marmuri 44, 115 Spiaggia Su Barone 195 highlights 42, 42 205-6 Chiesa di San Paolo Terza 152 history 41-3 caving 72 (Milis) 104 Belvedere 73 information 62 Chiesa di San Paolo -B-C cell phones 16, 264 Berchidda 176 itineraries 41 Cittadella dei Musei 50 (Olbia) 148 bicycle travel, see cycling nightlife 59-60 Chiesa di San Pietro 202 cheese 202, 251 birdwatching 54 shopping 60-2 Chiesa di San Francesco Chiesa di San Pietro di blogs 226 sights 43-52 115 Simbranos 143 boat tours 32, 116-17 tours 54 children, travel with 34-6 Chiesa di San Salvatore Alghero 116 100 travel to/from 62-3 churches & cathedrals Arcipelago di La Chiesa di San travel within 63 Basilica della Santissima Maddalena 158, 167 Sebastiano 195 Cala Domestica Beach 73 Trinità di Saccargia Buggerru 74 Cala Goloritzè 196 143 Chiesa di San Simplicio 148 Cagliari 53 Cala Gonone 191-4 Basilica di San Gavino Chiesa di Santa Maria Cala Gonone 193 Campanile (Alghero) 114-15 132 (Castelsardo) 134 Cannigione 158 Cannigione 158-9 Basilica di San Pietro di Chiesa di Santa Maria 78 Isola dell’Asinara 133 Sorres 143 Cantine Surrau 159 (Tratalias) Isola di San Pietro 79-80 Capo Caccia 128-30 Basilica di San Saturnino 47 Chiesa di Santa Maria Isola Tavolara 153 Capo Carbonara 64 delle Grazie 67 Basilica di Santa Giusta Palau 166 Capo Sandalo 81 97 Chiesa di Santa Maria Parco Nazionale Capo Testa 162, 164, 173 del Regno 143 dell’Asinara 131 Basilica di Santa Maria car travel 28-9, 125, 269-70 della Neve 103 Chiesa di Santa Maria di Santa Teresa di Gallura car hire 28 Betlem 137 162 Basilica Santa Maria dei driving conditions 28 Martiri 188 Chiesa di Santa Maria Villasimius 64 (Oliena) 197 parking 29 Cattedrale books 230, 243, 247, Chiesa di Sant’Anna 46 Carbonia 76-7 dell’Immacolata 107-8 255, 257 Chiesa di Sant’Antioco di Carloforte 79-81 Chiesa di San Bosa 12, 106-10, 108, 3, 12 Bisarcio 143 Carlotto, Massimo 61 Francesco 115 activities 108-9 Chiesa di Santa Teresa Carnevale 21 Chiesa di San Leonardo drinking 110 de Siete Fuentes 102 d’Avila 88 Caruso, Andrea 238 events 109 Cattedrale di San Pietro Chiesa di Sant’Efisio Cascata Sa Spendula 75 festivals 109 171 47, 86 Castello di Acquafredda 77 food