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Clothing of Kansas Women, 1854-1870
CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 by BARBARA M. FARGO B. A., Washburn University, 1956 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1969 )ved by Major Professor ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to her adviser, Dr. Jessie A. Warden, for her assistance and guidance during the writing of this thesis. Grateful acknowledgment also is expressed to Dr. Dorothy Harrison and Mrs. Helen Brockman, members of the thesis committee. The author is indebted to the staff of the Kansas State Historical Society for their assistance. TABLE OP CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENT ii INTRODUCTION AND PROCEDURE 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 3 CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 12 Wardrobe planning 17 Fabric used and produced in the pioneer homes 18 Style and fashion 21 Full petticoats 22 Bonnets 25 Innovations in acquisition of clothing 31 Laundry procedures 35 Overcoming obstacles to fashion 40 Fashions from 1856 44 Clothing for special occasions 59 Bridal clothes 66 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 REFERENCES 74 LIST OF PLATES PLATE PAGE 1. Bloomer dress 15 2. Pioneer woman and child's dress 24 3. Slat bonnet 30 4. Interior of a sod house 33 5. Children's clothing 37 6. A fashionable dress of 1858 42 7. Typical dress of the 1860's 47 8. Black silk dress 50 9. Cape and bonnet worn during the 1860's 53 10. Shawls 55 11. Interior of a home of the late 1860's 58 12. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Dress Code Is a Presentation of Who We Are.” 1997-98 Grand Officers
CLOTHING GUIDELINES: MEMBERS AND ADULTS (Reviewed annually during Grand Officer Leadership; changes made as needed) Changes made by Jr. Grand Executive Committee (November 2016) “A dress code is a presentation of who we are.” 1997-98 Grand Officers One of the benefits of Rainbow is helping our members mature into beautiful, responsible young women - prepared to meet challenges with dignity, grace and poise. The following guidelines are intended to help our members make appropriate clothing choices, based on the activities they will participate in as Rainbow girls. The Clothing Guidelines will be reviewed annually by the Jr. Members of the Grand Executive Committee. Recommendations for revisions should be forwarded to the Supreme Officer prior to July 15th of each year. REGULAR MEETINGS Appropriate: Short dress, including tea-length and high-low length, or skirt and blouse or sweater or Nevada Rainbow polo shirt (tucked in) with khaki skirt or denim skirt. Vests are acceptable. Skirt length: Ideally, HEMS should not be more than three inches above the knee. Skirts, like pencil skirts that hug the body and require “adjustment” after bowing or sitting, are unacceptable. How to tell if a skirt has a Rainbow appropriate length? Try the “Length Test”, which includes: When bowing from the waist, are your undergarments visible, or do you need to hold your skirt - or shirt - down in the back? If so, it's too short for a Rainbow meeting. Ask your mother or father to stand behind you and in front of you while you bow from the waist. If she/he gasps, the outfit is not appropriate for a Rainbow meeting. -
HISTORY and DEVELOPMENT of FASHION Phyllis G
HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF FASHION Phyllis G. Tortora DOI: 10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10020a Abstract Although the nouns dress and fashion are often used interchangeably, scholars usually define them much more precisely. Based on the definition developed by researchers Joanne Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach Higgins, dress should encompass anything individuals do to modify, add to, enclose, or supplement the body. In some respects dress refers to material things or ways of treating material things, whereas fashion is a social phenomenon. This study, until the late twentieth century, has been undertaken in countries identified as “the West.” As early as the sixteenth century, publishers printed books depicting dress in different parts of the world. Books on historic European and folk dress appeared in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. By the twentieth century the disciplines of psychology, sociology, anthropology, and some branches of art history began examining dress from their perspectives. The earliest writings about fashion consumption propose the “ trickle-down” theory, taken to explain why fashions change and how markets are created. Fashions, in this view, begin with an elite class adopting styles that are emulated by the less affluent. Western styles from the early Middle Ages seem to support this. Exceptions include Marie Antoinette’s romanticized shepherdess costumes. But any review of popular late-twentieth-century styles also find examples of the “bubbling up” process, such as inner-city African American youth styles. Today, despite the globalization of fashion, Western and non-Western fashion designers incorporate elements of the dress of other cultures into their work. An essential first step in undertaking to trace the history and development of fashion is the clarification and differentiation of terms. -
The Corset and the Crinoline : a Book of Modes and Costumes from Remote Periods to the Present Time
THE CORSET THE CRINOLINE. # A BOOK oh MODES AND COSTUMES FROM REMOTE PERIODS TO THE PRESENT TIME. By W. B. L. WITH 54 FULL-PAGE AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS. " wha will shoe my fair foot, Aud wha will glove my han' ? And wha will lace my middle jimp Wi' a new-made London ban' ?" Fair Annie of L&hroyan. LONDON: W A R D, LOCK, AND TYLER. WARWICK HOUSE, PATERNOSTER ROW. LOS DOS PRINTKD BY JAS. WAOE, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVBSI GARDEN 10 PREFACE. The subject which we have here treated is a sort of figurative battle-field, where fierce contests have for ages been from time to time waged; and, notwithstanding the determined assaults of the attacking hosts, the contention and its cause remain pretty much as they were at the commencement of the war. We in the matter remain strictly neutral, merely performing the part of the public's " own correspondent," making it our duty to gather together such extracts from despatches, both ancient and modern, as may prove interesting or important, to take note of the vicissitudes of war, mark its various phases, and, in fine, to do our best to lay clearly before our readers the historical facts—experiences and arguments—relating to the much-discussed " Corset question" As most of our readers are aware, the leading journals especially intended for the perusal of ladies have been for many years the media for the exchange of a vast number of letters and papers touching the use of the Corset. The questions relating to the history of this apparently indispensable article of ladies' attire, its construction, application, and influence on the figure have become so numerous of late that we have thought, by embodying all that we can glean and garner relating to Corsets, their wearers, and the various costumes worn by ladies at different periods, arranging the subject-matter in its due order as to dates, and at the same time availing ourselves of careful illustration when needed, that an interesting volume would result. -
SWART, RENSKA L." 12/06/2016 Matches 149
Collection Contains text "SWART, RENSKA L." 12/06/2016 Matches 149 Catalog / Objectid / Objname Title/Description Date Status Home Location O 0063.001.0001.008 PLAIN TALK TICKET 1892 OK MCHS Building Ticket Ticket to a Y.M.C.A. program entitled "Plain Talk, No. 5" with Dr. William M. Welch on the subject of "The Prevention of Contagion." The program was held Thursday, October 27, 1892 at the Central Branch of the YMCA at 15th and Chestnut Street in what appears to be Philadelphia O 0063.001.0002.012 1931 OK MCHS Building Guard, Lingerie Safety pin with chain and snap. On Original marketing card with printed description and instructions. Used to hold up lingerie shoulder straps. Maker: Kantslip Manufacturing Co., Pittsburgh, PA copyright date 1931 O 0063.001.0002.013 OK MCHS Building Case, Eyeglass Brown leather case for eyeglasses. Stamped or pressed trim design. Material has imitation "cracked-leather" pattern. Snap closure, sewn construction. Name inside flap: L. F. Cronmiller 1760 S. Winter St. Salem, OR O 0063.001.0002.018 OK MCHS Building Massager, Scalp Red Rubber disc with knob-shaped handle in center of one side and numerous "teeth" on other side. Label molded into knob side. "Fitch shampoo dissolves dandruff, Fitch brush stimulates circulation 50 cents Massage Brush." 2 1/8" H x 3 1/2" dia. Maker Fitch's. place and date unmarked Page 1 Catalog / Objectid / Objname Title/Description Date Status Home Location O 0063.001.0002.034 OK MCHS Building Purse, Change Folding leather coin purse with push-tab latch. Brown leather with raised pattern. -
NEW ORLEANS NOSTALGIA Remembering New Orleans History, Culture and Traditions
NEW ORLEANS NOSTALGIA Remembering New Orleans History, Culture and Traditions By Ned Hémard Paris Fashions The New Orleans Daily Picayune had the latest word on “Paris Fashions” in 1864 when it printed “A Paris letter of Jan. 24th”, announcing: “A new blue and green have been contrived by the scientific dyers of silks, which keep their color so distinctly and vividly by candle-light as to throw all previous dyes into the shade. These, and a beautiful violet, which does not redden by candle-light, are the favorite new colors, replacing the oak shades so fashionable last winter under the names of ‘Russia leather,’ ‘Queen's hair’ and ‘Wood.’ Figured silks, plaid stripes, small and large Chine flower and brocades keep their place in public favor; but the plain shades are considered the newest and most fashionable for evening dresses.” The above report from France was the result of the latest scientific discoveries in the field of synthetic dyes and a fashion firestorm that took place in the City of Light in 1864. It involved the Empress Eugénie, wife of Emperor Napoléon III of the Second Empire of France, and an exquisite green silk gown (more on that later). Born on May 5, 1826, in Granada, Spain, the Empress Eugénie became the fashion icon of all Europe and across the ocean to New Orleans and the rest of the United States, as well. The Empress adored haute couture, a term first used to describe the work of fashion designer Charles Fredrick Worth (1826-1895), and set a standard in Paris that had not been seen since the days of Josephine. -
1 Clothing Guidelines: Members And
CLOTHING GUIDELINES: MEMBERS AND ADULTS (Reviewed annually during Grand Officer Leadership; changes made as needed) “A dress code is a presentation of who we are.” 1997-98 Grand Officers One of the benefits of Rainbow is helping our members mature into beautiful, responsible young women - prepared to meet challenges with dignity, grace and poise. The following guidelines are intended to help our members make appropriate clothing choices, based on the activities they will participate in as Rainbow girls. REGULAR MEETINGS Appropriate: Short dress, including tea-length and high-lows length, or skirt and blouse or sweater or Nevada Rainbow polo shirt (tucked in) with khaki skirt or denim skirt. Vests are acceptable. Grandie shifts that resemble a short dress are acceptable; Grandie shifts that are more costume than short dress are not acceptable (except during practice). Skirt length: HEMS cannot be shorter than three inches above the knee. Skirts, like pencil skirts that hug the body and require “adjustment” after bowing or sitting, are unacceptable. How to tell if a skirt has a Rainbow appropriate length? Try the “Length Test”, which includes: When bowing from the waist, are your undergarments visible, or do you need to hold your skirt - or shirt - down in the back? If so, it's too short for a Rainbow meeting. Ask your mother or father to stand behind you and in front of you while you bow from the waist. If she/he gasps, the outfit is not appropriate for a Rainbow meeting. Please select something a little longer and/or shows less chest. Ask your mom or dad to use a tape measure to measure from the top of your knee to the bottom of your hem. -
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth. -
Get a Taste of Theatre Design with Our Newest Series: the Old Globe Coloring Book! Every Thursday, We'll Post a New Page Featu
Get a taste of theatre design with our newest series: The Old Globe Coloring Book! Every Thursday, we’ll post a new page featuring an original design for costumes, sets, or props from past Globe shows. Along the way, you’ll be treated to design insight from artisans who brought these ideas to life. Color them in however you want (creativity welcome!), and post on your social media and tag @theoldglobe and #globecoloringbook. The following Tuesday, we’ll post some of our favorites, along with the designer’s original rendering and a photo of the final design onstage. It’s time for your vision to take the spotlight! Hamlet: Laertes, a young lord Dashing in a velvet cloak and cap, a richly textured houndstooth doublet (jacket) and breeches (calf length trousers). Cap is decorated with ostrich plumes, often placed on the left side of the cap leaving the right sword arm free to fight. A sword was an essential part of a gentlemen’s dress in the 17th century. Hamlet: In this 2007 production of Hamlet, the costumes were made from silk and wool fabrics in the shades of pale grey. In contrast, the main character, Hamlet, wore both a black and a scarlet suede doublet and breeches. The ladies were dressed in long sumptous gowns with corsets and padded petticoats. Sword fighting and scheming was afoot under the stars on the magical outdoor Lowell Davies Festival Stage. Familiar: Anne, eccentric aunt from Zimbabwe Costumed in grand style in a long colorful floral cotton skirt, blouse with large sleeve ruffles, and matching headdress. -
Broadway Costumes 2012 Rental List
Broadway Costumes Costume Rentals How-To’s, Contract Terms & Conditions Rental Rates & Deposits: The basic rental period is 2 nights. We do not charge for any days that Broadway Costumes is closed. Additional days rent at the rate of 20% per day plus tax. Special weekly rates and “play” rates may apply. Just inquire as to your special needs. Deposits are required and are usually twice the amount required as the stated rental rate up to and including the current retail value. Minimum deposit is $20. Deposits are not refundable for any cancellations unless 1 (one) week or more in advance, then 50% refunded. The deposit is NOT part of the rental balance. The entire rental balance is due when the costume is picked up. Deposits may be made by credit card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) or by cash. Deposits are refunded after costume return and any applicable fees are paid. Rental Return: You must return all rented items by the date stated on the contract. Items not returned on the specified date are subject to a late fee of 20% of the basic rental rate per day late plus tax. Alterations by Broadway Costumes: Alterations and cleaning are normally included in the rental price. However, alterations may take up to two weeks at peak seasons; faster service may require an additional service charge. Alterations by Customer: NO ALTERATIONS are allowed by the customer. Any alterations done outside of Broadway Costumes will be considered as damage and will result in assessed fees. Smoking and Eating While in Costume: Be very cautious. -
Reta Blossom in Corset and Bustle
MARCH 10. 1935. CHICAGO SUNDAY TRIBUNE: n 9 PART 7-PAGE 12. S££SZ$i "'9 . • • reta Blossom Out In Corset and Bustle In Next ilm HOll YWOOD Period Stvles Hollywood Men I Abhor Sartorial HAPPENINGS Revived for RUSSIAN APPEARING Perfection Now Bob Hopkins, comedy writer at DANCER AT M.·G.-M. has bought him a ranch at Russian Tale IN EARLY any actress In Holly· Encino, near Eddie Horton's. He wood would be set pleasurably THE PALACE says he wants some " first run fresh 'GIGOlETTE' a-twitter if she were to be air," I' A n n a Karenma." De- N asked how she achieves that Bob Taylor, leading man in well dressed effect. Yet try asking "Times Square Lady," Is entering mands rwenty-Five Fus- Clark Gable, Bill Powell, Warner Baxter, Robert Montgomery-and his third name, as above. He had sy,Complex Ensembles. they are liable to answer succinctly, two others which proved unlucky . ••Nerts." Any actress will spend the But the third one he's keeping as it whole day in front of a camera tak- seems to be taking him places. By Rosalind Shaffer. ing fashion stills-but try to get a Francis Lederer remarked the OLLYWOOD, Cal. - [Special.] single male star to model any gar- - Greta Garbo will burst ment and he's sure to have a date to other day that, in his opinion, Bette upon her faithful but ott- go duck hunting or something. Davis In her performance in ••Of times startled public in cor- There simply aren't any " best Suzanne Choumetska Human Bondage" merited the acad- set, bustle, and other feminine acces- dressed men" in Hollywood except is prominent in the emy award for which she was not sories to charm in her next film.