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Issue No. 243 Friday, January 12, - Thursday, January 25, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in and pean Championships in , Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W LONG WAIT June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, FOR RETURN OF page 5

CONFISCATED conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party PROPERTY E

Meet some of the families still Friday • June 13 2008 fighting for the return of valuable property confiscated 70 years ago THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks by ’s communist rulers. “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Milan RADONJIC

he restitution process – the “There were a lot of unfounded prop- return of property that erty claims, which has slowed the over- was nationalised or confis- all process, but nonetheless we expect cated by the former Yugo- the return of real estate properties… will slavia’s post-World War II be completed in full by the end of 2018,” Tcommunist government - began in 2011. Strahinja Sekulic, director of the agen- Since then, 6001 flats, office spaces cy, told BIRN, stressing that agricultural and buildings in Serbia have been re- land return will take longer. turned to the descendants of previous “The intention is for the whole pro- owners, according to the Agency for cess to be finished in the next five years, Restitution. Of just over 75,000 applica- including natural return and compen- tions, 12,438 resulted in a positive deci- sation in form of government bonds.” sion to return the property, by the end of 2017. Continued on page 5

Renowned traditional restaurant Question Mark in central Belgrade has Photo: Facebook/Znak Pitanja been returned to its pre-communist era owners.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA Slobodan COMMENT Milosevic Revived in Kosovo ' Musical ’s Stealthy Advance in A musical staged by a Serb theatre ensemble from Kosovo about the Should Worry EU 1999 war and Serb-Albanian rela- tions will feature late Yugoslav Chinese president Xi Jinping visits Serbia in 2016. Photo: Beta President Slobodan Milosevic as While Europe EU aspirant countries. Created in April Most of the investment is centered on Hence, it’s not whether or not to do busi- between Belgrade and Budapest has 2012, the framework constitutes a plat- highway infrastructure, the energy sec- ness with China; the question is how to almost come to a dead-end; the EU is the "tragic protagonist". focuses on the form that brings heads of states together tor and heavy industries. make yourself able to negotiate a fair investigating possible violations of Eu- annually to strengthen cooperation be- Chinese companies have invested in deal. ropean requirements for public tenders. threat of Russian tween China and the CEE region. the steel mill in , Serbia, and Unlike the EU, which offers a long, Serbia has begun work on its side, bor- Hosting a meeting with China has be- are building numerous mostly coal-fired demanding and sometimes politically rowing nearly 300 million dollars from penetration in come a matter of prestige, and some EU power plants, notably in Serbia, Bosnia hurtful process of democratic reforms China to do so. Eastern Europe, it members in the group consider it as im- and Herzegovina and . – that will eventually, however, lead to But the question is where this high- portant as hosting EU summits. Most Chinese investments in Bos- the creation of economically viable speed railway will actually end if the EU is neglecting the It is not surprising that Bulgaria, the nia go only to the Serb-dominated en- and politically accountable democratic stops it from being realised on the Hun- current EU president, eagerly and suc- tity, . systems – China is not interested in de- garian side. subtler dangers cessfully argued for Sofia to host the Serbia has a particular place in China’s mocracy. It is clear why the EU is, and should be, next event. Balkan strategy. It has already attracted Hiding behind “non-interference in getting nervous when it comes to Chi- than come from won the right to host the over 1 billion US dollars in investment domestic affairs”, not only in the Bal- nese inroads in its backyard. China’s growing meeting last year when Prime Minis- in the form of soft loans to finance road- kans, it presents itself as an easy alter- The experience of other regions ter Viktor Orbán visited China and met building and energy projects. native to Western demands for painful where China has established itself as a influence in the Prime Minister Keqiang, who reportedly Other notable investments in the re- democratic reforms. strong player suggests that, behind Chi- green lighted the idea. gion include a 580-million-euro loan It gives a preference to state-led, top- na’s alleged generosity and goodwill, lies region. For countries in the Balkans, China is granted in 2013 to Macedonia from down, leader-to-leader type deals that a clear interest to project Chinese eco- a perfect case of a successful marriage China’s Exim Bank for a motorway, and take no account of whether projects are nomic influence and political interests. President Slobodan Milosevic of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Photo: Wikimedia Commons (US Air Force Vesko GARCEVIC of interests. The Balkan states all need a 3.2-billion-dollar project led by the Chi- market-driven, transparent and envi- China’s current approach is a part President Alija Izetbegovic of the Republic of , Staff: Sgt. Brian Schlumbohm) and President Franjo Tudjman of the Republic of initial the money – and China seems willing to in- na Pacific Construction Group, CPCG, ronmentally friendly. of a broader, well-thought-out strategy Dayton Peace Accords. he region is still unaware vest it in their region. the country’s largest private builder, to Stability in Chinese eyes also means aimed at utilizing its power in CEE/Bal- of potential risks of deal- Moreover, unlike the EU, the Chinese build an expressway between Montene- keeping the current political elites in kans countries to influence the EU from Filip RUDIC ing with China. Hence, it’s do not ask difficult questions, preach, or gro and Albania, which will be a part of power as long as they can secure new within. not whether or not to do push for privatization and restructuring the Adriatic-Ionian highway. state-endorsed economic projects. Any In these circumstances, the EU should he Serb National Theatre from Pris- "After my research, I personally consider Milo- business with China; the of inefficient state-owned enterprises. At the same time, Montenegro got a change of leadership, democratic or not, reinvigorate its own model and recon- tina said it plans to tell the story of life sevic just a shrewd politician who loved being in Tquestion is how to make yourself able to Acquisitions of industrial assets by more than billion-dollar loan from Exim brings a degree of risk that China would firm the EU membership perspective for in Kosovo in the form of a musical fea- power and got caught in historical circumstances negotiate a fair deal. China are presented by local politi- Bank for a motorway running from the prefer not to see. the Western Balkans. turing the late Yugoslav strongman that he helped accelerate, but which would have When EU officials, including foreign cians as safe investments that will cre- coast to the border with Serbia and to Growing discontent with the model leader Slobodan Milosevic and his happened without him," Todorovic said. policy chief Federica Mogherini, refer to ate jobs – which is of key importance renew Montenegro’s shipping fleet. CHINA’S ‘GENEROSITY’ of liberal democracy and reform fatigue Twife Mira Markovic, which is to premiere in March. He said he sees the former president as a "tragic the Balkans as a new “chessboard where for countries struggling with unem- COMES AT A COST on the Balkan side, and complicated and "This is not just a play about Sloba [Milosevic] protagonist" who can either be described as "the the big power game can be played”, Rus- ployment. UNLIKE , BEIJING bureaucratized procedures on the EU and Mira, it is first and foremost about the people butcher of the Balkans" or as a victim of circum- sia, not China, seems to be on their mind. In some cases, the EU cannot even PROFITS FROM STABILITY Given the democratic deficit on the side, have facilitated Chinese advances. who live down there [in Kosovo]," said the director, stance - but he added that the play will not try to But, whether or not they wish to rec- compete with China because the its Balkan side, states in the region have put The EU cannot compromise its re- Nenad Todorovic. answer the question of who Milosevic was. ognise it, China is becoming a powerful burdensome and complicated rules at- Unlike Russia, which tries to benefit themselves in a position of passive de- form agenda. However, more initiatives, The musical by the Serb-run theatre, which re- He believes Milosevic personified what Serbs player in the strategic chess game in the tached to EU funding. from destabilization in the region, China pendency on China. such as the Process, along with located to Gracanica in 1999, is being rehearsed at wanted as a nation in the 1990s, which he said was Balkans. supports and economically benefits Beijing arranges the financing of pro- the continuation of democratic transfor- the Serbian National Theatre in Belgrade. to "reform" Yugoslavia to reclaim the status they Beijing’s “One Belt One Road” policy BALKANS IS ‘WINDOW OF from the region’s stability. jects, and sends its own workers, - mation are needed. Todorovic told BIRN that the first part of the had in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, before the Con- is already affecting the Balkans, and its OPPORTUNITY’ FOR CHINA Also unlike Russia, China does not rely ing the participation of local companies If China is not to win out, the EU must musical, entitled 'Lift', will juxtapose the Milosevic stitution of 1974 which gave more autonomy to the presence is visible in almost every cor- on propaganda to export its ideology or to a minimum. assist the Balkan states in building up family's life with the lives of ordinary people in Ko- Kosovo and provincial governments. ner of the region. On the other hand, with a popula- try to undermine the aspirations of states Chinese loans, granted under soft and strong and accountable institutions – sovo amid growing tensions in the 1990s. "This was obviously impossible, and the great- Its economic engagement in this part tion of over 120 million, CEE/Balkans is in the region to join NATO or the EU. permissible conditions, have also led to and offer new and tangible opportuni- In its second part, the play will turn into a "Ra- est price of this [policy] was paid by the popula- of Europe is growing, as is its influence, a window of opportunity for Chinese Beijing does not sell an alternative an increase in the region’s debt burden. ties for investment. cine-esque tragedy" in which Milosevic defends tion, including us, Serbs from Kosovo," he said. fuelling concern that the EU could be products and Foreign Direct Invest- ideological or political model for the Bal- Serbia has already borrowed 2.12 bil- himself from accusations of war crimes at the In- He said he believes that the Kosovo Serb popula- gradually outplayed by China’s fast-ris- ment, FDI. kans. Driven by more economic and po- lion dollars and Bosnia 1.78 billion dol- Vesko Garcevic is a former ternational Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yu- tion now lives in the "last European apartheid", isolat- ing power – as has happened in Africa. At the first glance, the Balkan/CEE litical interests, China stands to benefit lars from Chinese banks. In Montenegro, Montenegrin Ambassador to NATO, goslavia in The Hague. ed in enclaves and worried that their children will be Beijing recently reconfirmed its com- countries and China are in the honey- from the region’s integration into the EU. the cost of Chinese loans has already the OSCE and other international Milosevic died of a heart attack in his cell in The heard speaking Serbian in Albanian-owned stores. mitment to Central and Eastern Europe, moon phase of their relationship. At the same time, its growing “soft” forced the government to scale down organisations. He is currently a professor Hague in March 2006 before the verdict in his trial Todorovic said he does not expect any the re- CEE, when it sent Prime Minister Li Ke- From 2010 to 2015, mutual trade in- power hinders the EU’s own model for some of its social welfare projects. at the Frederick S. Pardee School of was handed down. action from Kosovo Albanians to the portrayal of qiang to the Sixth China-Central Eastern creased by 20 per cent, reaching a total the Balkans. Another issue is the extent to which Global Studies, Boston University. While getting ready to direct the play, Todorovic Milosevic. European Summit of Leaders in Buda- of 56.2 billion US dollars. This is why China is in some ways a China abides by European rules and said he read tens of thousands of pages of court re- "Since they chased us out of Pristina in 1999, we pest in November. In November 2016, during the 16+1 more difficult actor to deal with than standards when it develops its invest- The opinions expressed in the cords from the Hague Tribunal. He said that they haven't communicated... the Pristina authorities, Eleven of the 16 participating coun- Summit in Riga, Latvia, China launched Russia. ments. Comment section are those of the authors contained "relatively idiotic charges" as well as the public and intellectuals ignore us, so I do not tries in the so-called 16+1 framework a 10-billion-euro investment fund to fi- The region itself seems unaware of The much-propagated high-speed only and do not necessarily reflect the "clear evidence of grave crimes". expect a reaction," he explained. are EU members while five others are nance projects in the CEE region. the potential risks of dealing with China. railway [costed at 3.8 billion dollars] views of BIRN. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Kalemegdan Continued from page 1 'Little Staircase' Works Under Way Malo Stepeniste, or 'Little Stair- Cherished Cultural case', at Belgrade's , is currently undergoing Long comprehensive renovation works. According to the local authorities, Centre Seeks New Home the entire works – which cost approximately 144,000 euros in brief Belgrade Wait for (around 17 million dinars) - will The REX be completed by the end of June. "Little Staircase has been in a cultural centre Return of very bad condition for years now. The works include recovery, stone in Dorcol consolidation, replacing the miss- ing and highly damaged parts closes its Confiscated with original stones and restoring the authentic staircase form," doors after the said the Institute for the Protec- property was tion of Monuments of Belgrade, Property which carried out the reconstruc- tion project, in a statement. Little returned to its Staircase was built in 1903 and ut for many, the return HADZIC’S PALACE, its designer was Jelisaveta Nacic, pre-communist of property is more than VLAJKOVICEVA 10 Serbia's first female architect. era owners. simply a legal issue. It has Children Take Part become a mission to rem- “Vlajkoviceva 10 was the fam- in Epiphany Swim edy injustices imposed ily home of my great-grandmother Siri SOLLIE on their ancestors. Here Jelisaveta Hadzic, [it was] a property This year, for the first time, Bare some of their stories. created by several generations but it school children aged between he independent cultural was taken from us by one strike of a 7 and 10 will get the chance centre Kulturni Centar THE DEUTSCH’S pen,” says Olga Radojlovic Barac. to swim for a Holy Cross – a Rex (KC REX) at Jevrejska ESPLANADE HOTEL “My grandmother, Olga Hadzic, re- tradition that takes place on 16 in the Dorcol neighbour- ceived the two-storey building and ad- the Christian holiday Orthodox hood of the city closed its The Deutsch family moved from Ger- ditional construction plots in the area Epiphany on Thursday, January Tdoors during the last days of 2017, after many to Pancevo – then in southern as a gift from her mother Jelisaveta. 18. Swimming for a holy cross is organised in several cities and its owners decided to use the building Hungary, now in the northern Serbian After she married Colonel Nikola Can- towns in Serbia, where partici- as a Jewish-focused arts and cultural province of Vojvodina - in 1870. Their ic, she built an additional third floor, pants – usually adults – swim in centre. leather manufacturing business ex- where my mother Mirjana Canic Rado- Hotel a lake or a river. They compete Beloved by Belgraders, KC REX was panded across Hungary, Serbia and Sla- jlovic was born.” in a race and the prize is a holy founded in 1994 by the famous inde- vonia (now the eastern part of Croatia). Damaged during World War II bomb- Belgrade cross. Meanwhile, children will pendent radio station . In the hands “My grandfather Aleksandar was mo- ing raids, Barac’s grandmother was in- of Radio B92, and later Fund B92, KC bilised for the Austro-Hungarian army, structed by the communist authorities compete in three of Belgrade's The Markovic family successfully Rex hosted and organised numerous fighting on the eastern front and was to take a loan from the bank, rebuild indoor pools: the Tonus pool in fought for the return of the Hotel the municipality of Palilula, the film shows, including the Slobodna soon captured by the Russian army the house and then repay the loan from Belgrade in but Royal for Kids in the Vozdovac Zona film festival, and frequent multi- in 1916. But the events of the October rental income. Yet at the same time, sev- are now struggling to renovate it district and at the October 20 media exhibitions, concerts, debates, Revolution[in Russia in 1917] ended his eral government ministries and institu- as it was returned in poor repair. primary school in Novi Beograd. alternative theatre, and visual art and days in prison, and he soon returned to tions began to use parts of the building, Boys and girls will swim sepa- contemporary dance performances. Belgrade, this time as a married man,” without paying any rent to Olga Hadzic. “We have managed to recover rately, the organisers announced. According to the KC REX website, ap- says Haris Deutsch, an assistant profes- Government employees remain in our property… its maintenance over the past decades was very proximately half a million people have sor at the Belgrade Faculty of Philoso- Vlajkoviceva 10 to this date. After hous- poor and a lot of value has been Moscow Circus on passed through the premises during its phy. ing the Ministry for Local Government Ice Comes to Town Since it was founded in 1994, KC Rex has housed several cultural events at Jevrejska street 16 in the Dorcol neighbourhood. Photo: Facebook/Kulturni centar REX lost, but I like to have a positive almost four decades of existence. “Together with his Russian wife and Ministry of Foreign Trade Econom- attitude and try to restore the ho- For the first time in its decades- The KC REX website stressed that it space just as any other tenant would The Jewish Community in Belgrade "As owners of that property, we want Aleksandra, he-launched the prosper- ics, Hadzic’s Palace is now used by the tel’s former shine,” says Vladimir and Fund B92 will continue the "dedi- and so was "on one side unexpected decided to end the tenancy contract to create a Jewish Cultural Centre… it ous family business, soon becoming government Secretariat for Public Markovic, now owner of the Hotel long history, Moscow Circus on The Agency for Restitution noted that the property in Brace Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjic Ice will be performing in Belgrade cated work on the development of a and from another side, not". with Fund B92, with the organisation's will be functioning in that sense, but at the owner of a leather manufacturing Policy. Krsmanovica has been returned to the Deutsch family. Belgrade. on Monday, January 15 at the tolerant and responsible society and secretary, Miroslav Rajicevic, empha- the same time we're also seeking to cre- production line in Nis, [a city 240 kilo- “My grandmother was never allowed It was built in 1936 by his great- the improvement of the social and cul- sising that the property is in a poor ate an overall cultural centre for the city metres south-east of Belgrade] with the to enter the renewed residential parts door of his apartment, which was on lice squad coming to arrest him. It was Centar. Apart from clowns RETURNED TO grandfather Vladimir Djordjevic, and acrobats, the audience tural circumstances of vulnerable so- PRE-WWII OWNERS state of repair and that the community of Belgrade," he said. main warehouse and transport hub on of the building and was even forced to the upper floor, and told him that his horrific.” who came back to live in Belgrade will also get the chance to see cial groups… with the help of numerous will invest a considerable sum to reno- "There will be a theatre, there will be ex- the Belgrade Sava port, in Brace Krs- sell the apartment in which she should restaurant had been nationalised. He The building was declared a cultural after completing doctoral studies performances on a trapeze as donors, friends, associates and citizens The property was returned to its vate it. hibitions, it will be a proper cultural cen- manovica street.” have lived, at a price below market val- died the same evening,” says Pavlovic. monument by the City Hall of Belgrade in economics in Bern. well as acrobats on ice skates. as before". pre-communist era owners, the Jewish "We will start from the foundation to tre and a community of Jews and Serbs," As a reserve officer, Aleksandar was ue.” He recalls that his father Zoran never in 1987. The Serbian capital is just one leg Aleksandra Beric, programme coor- Community, in Belgrade in September the roof top; nothing has been invested Alba said, while also highlighting that 90 arrested by the German Army and de- The Canic family applied to the discussed the forced nationalisation of Vanja’s late husband Zoran began In addition, Markovic’s grand- of their European tour, which will dinator at KC REX, told BIRN that Fund 2016. in the property for decades. It is in a per cent of the city's Jewish community ported soon after the fall of the King- Agency for Restitution but say they the family’s property: “He was so embit- the long battle to have his ancestor’s father built and owned several buildings in central Belgrade but take in more than 50 nations all B92 is now on the look-out for a new The centre was handed back to the very bad state," he told BIRN. lived in Dorcol before World War II. dom of Yugoslavia during World War haven’t received any kind of answer so tered by the experience that he never property returned but she hasn’t suc- after World War II, he lost all of over the world. Moscow Circus on space to host cultural activities. community as part of the country's Jakov Alba, Vice-President of the The community plans to begin reno- II, and his wife and two daughters sent far.“We are still here, waiting for justice,” wanted even to enter this place.” ceeded in getting ownership of the Ice was founded in 1964. Tickets them. He was not even allowed to Asked if the cancellation of their ten- restitution process that has seen thou- Jewish Community in Belgrade, told vation works in May that are scheduled to Banjica prison, in the south of Bel- says Olga Canic. The restaurant had been returned to most valuable part of the building – the have his own furniture. range from approximately 15 to ancy by the property owners, the Jew- sands of properties that were confiscat- BIRN that while they wish to set up a to last a couple of months. grade. Being well off, Deutsch managed The agency says it is still working the family but the decision is subject to restaurant, which remains the subject 25 euros (around 1,800 to 3,000 ish Community in Belgrade (Jevrejska ed by the post-World War II communist Jewish Cultural Centre on the site, it will "From our perspective and [given] to save his two daughters by bribing the on the application and assessment of an appeal court ruling, the Agency for of a legal process and is now closed for All his property was seized, and dinars) and can be purchased Opstina Beograd), had come as a sur- government returned to the families of benefit all residents in the Dorcol neigh- our plans, we will all profit from this," guards and sending them to America, financial compensation for the family, Restitution said. an extended period of time. She is not he was forced to move to a small from the Sava Centar box office. prise, Beric said KC REX was renting the their original owners since 2011. bourhood and the city at large. Rajicevic emphasised. but his wife died in prison. adding: “The building in Vlajkoviceva hopeful. apartment in Njegoseva, where he paid monthly rent to the owner. After liberation from the Nazi occupi- 10 has not been returned to Mirjana RUSSIAN PALACE “They [the state] sold stolen property. ers, Deutsch tried again to restart his life Canic as it has the status of an official I do not expect anything from those Speaking about his plans, Marko- and business in the capital of the now [government] building.” “They say that this building is one of who have allowed this injustice to re- vic says he would like to turn the ORDER DELIVERY TO Socialist Yugoslavia. His new wife Niki the icons of Belgrade but you see what main uncorrected after all these years,” hotel into a new and repre- YOUR DOOR gave birth in May 1948 to his KAFANA QUESTION MARK the entry hall looks like, with this big she says. sentative Belgrade landmark that Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 son Eduard, but only five months later hole in the ceiling, so I am also a kind of The Agency for Restitution said would be visited by both tourists [email protected] Aleksandar was arrested again. “My great-grandfather Ivan Pavlovic caretaker here,” says Vanja Antonijevic, while the three apartments that were and locals. He intends to keep the spirit of old Belgrade, but within Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight “He was accused of spying and, being bought this house in Kralja Petra street, widow of Zoran, whose father Milutin state-owned have been returned to the a five-star venue that he would strong tempered, he confronted his in- which was at the time a tailor shop for built this famous Russian Tsar building family, the rest are privately owned, the like to return to its old name: The terrogators. This cost him a severe beat- clergy clothes, as it was just next to the (named after the famous restaurant on same as the restaurant, and can’t be di- Grand Hotel Belgrade. MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL ing and solitary confinement. This last main Belgrade Congregational Church,” the ground floor), at the entrance to cen- rectly handed over although financial Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla prison term cost him his life. He died in says Zoran Pavlovic, while having tea tral Belgrade’s Knez Mihajlova street. compensation is a possibility. Address: , Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v July the same year,” says his grandson at the very same building, which now The old tenants are mainly gone, she HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A Haris. hosts the famous traditional restaurant says, and some of those who came after Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA The Deutsch family is waiting for the Kafana Question Mark in central Bel- World War II did not really adjust to city ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 return of one residential building in grade. life. ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 Belgrade’s Kralja Petra street, the Espla- Ivan was a merchant and only kept Vanja recollects these years as a time SERBIA RESTAURANT KOVAČ Address: 9 Restaurant vrabac nade hotel in Pancevo, and the former the shop for bishops’ clothing, turning of great fear, particularly during the modern ethno restaurant Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD production factory Djuka Dinic in Nis. the rest of the space into the restaurant, conflict between Yugoslavia and the CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE The Agency for Restitution noted which operated for many years, includ- USSR, after Belgrade broke away from NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 that the property in Brace Krsmanovi- ing all the way through World War II. ideological unity with Moscow. The FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade ca has been returned to the family, but Then came liberation, but not for all. move threated to split the Yugoslav Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC added that they are still assessing the Ivan Pavlovic died on the same day he Communist Party and resulted in bru- BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 value of potential compensation for the learned that he was no longer owner of tal purges within its ranks. Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult other properties that cannot be handed the restaurant he had run for more than “I remember quite vividly when one HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 over because they now have new own- 50 years. man, who took one of the apartments, Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL ers, or do not exist in their previous “He and his wife were having dinner jumped straight through the window Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 www.restorankovac.com form. when army officers knocked on their and killed himself when he saw a po- 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT French Company Lands Razzle Belgrade Airport Concession VINCI Airports Dazzle has won the bid to manage Diplomacy Belgrade's Airport by in Serbia offering to pay over half a billion euros for the 25-

Serbian flags, explaining in Serbian, year deal. The West could Russian and English the importance, and provenance, of the gift. learn a lot from The mosaic is the most recent in Filip RUDIC a long line of high-profile gifts to the Russia and Serbian capital by regional and global rench firm VINCI Airports powers in their bid to win over Serbian will be managing Belgrade's China on how to hearts and minds, as well as, of course, international airport for the business and strategic alliances. next 25 years after pledging to win over Serbian China secured its place in Belgrade's pay 501 million euros for the geography though the construction of Fconcession and to invest an additional hearts and the Mihajlo , more popu- 732 million, Serbian government officials larly known as 'the Chinese Bridge', over confirmed. minds. the between the suburbs of Ze- "Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport will mun and Borca, and is now building a serve as the company's "hub" in South- futuristic-looking cultural centre in New east Europe, a geographical area in which Belgrade on the same spot of its former VINCI Airports has not operated until Srdjan GARCEVIC embassy building, which was destroyed now," said Nicolas Notebaert, Chief Ex- during NATO bombing in 1999. ecutive Officer of VINCI Concessions and nside the cavernous concrete The Turkish development agency Chairman of VINCI Airports. According to the Serbian president, the total value of concessions for Nikola Tesla airport – including mandatory investments – totals almost €1.5 billion. Photo: Beta expanse of the Church of St Sava TIKA is working hard on restoring Ot- The 25-year concession contract cov- on Belgrade's Vracar plateau, toman heritage in Serbia, and most ers financing, operations, maintenance, cession was worth 865 million euros in "The terms of the offer should not be Serbia, which has not proven itself to be ducing public debt, or build some of the there is a shimmer of gold behind recently restored a wonderful 16th Cen- extension and upgrades to the existing total," Vucic said. subject to change, but the contract might a good negotiator with foreign investors infrastructure projects faster," Savic told the huge metal scaffolding. This tury fountain in the Upper Town of the airport terminal and runways, the com- He pointed out that the total value of make the concessionaire's obligations during the same N1 interview. Tanjug news agency on January 6. Iglimpse of imposing beauty, in contrast . Even pany said on its website. the concession for Nikola Tesla airport - more flexible," economics journalist for "There are many unknowns which As concessionaire, VINCI Airports to the drabness of many of Belgrade's made its mark by paying for the recon- The contract is expected to be signed including the mandatory investments - is the Danas daily newspaper Aleksandar only the contract will make clear," Kova- said that it will aim to improve airport contemporary projects, comes from struction of Tasmajdan Park in central in the first quarter of 2018, with VINCI Air- almost one and a half billion euros. Milosevic told the regional TV channel N1 cevic told N1. operating conditions to enable the the church's new mosaic, depicting Je- Belgrade in 2010, which now features ports then taking over operation by the Serbian Prime Minister Ana Brnabic in an interview broadcast on January 8. On the other hand, Ljubodrag Savic, country's largest airliner, Air Serbia, to sus Christ surrounded by angels, the a statue of Heydar Aliyev, Azerbaijan's end of the year. called the deal an example of a good According to Serbian officials, VINCI a professor at the Belgrade Faculty of offer new long-haul routes as part of its Virgin Mary and the apostles. first president. Serbian officials unanimously hailed public-private partnership, calling on lo- has pledged not to fire any staff and to Economics, said that the financial of- hub strategy. More than just a work of great On the other hand, when asked the deal, with President Aleksandar cal governments to pursue this model of maintain the airport tariffs at the current fer was "satisfactory", adding that the With around 5.3 million passengers craftsmanship, the mosaic, when it is about recent architectural interven- Vucic comparing the concession agree- foreign investment. level for at least three years. government should use the money to welcomed in 2017, Belgrade Nikola Tesla unveiled later this month, will herald tions in the city by Western nations, ment favourably to the one signed by Analysts have been more reserved, Independent foreign investments reduce public debt or for capital invest- is the country's main airport, serving as the beginning of the end of the con- Belgraders are very likely to point to a neighbouring Croatia. however, criticising the lack of transpar- consultant Milan Kovacevic said that the ments. the hub of Air Serbia, which accounts for struction of the Church of St Sava. This spot a few hundred metres away from "Belgrade played smart and got a lot ency regarding the contract which is yet lack of transparency regarding invest- "The money could be used to pay off more than 50 per cent of the airport's pas- showy project was started in 1935 to St Sava: the mangled ruins of the gran- more than [airport], whose con- to be signed between Serbia and VINCI. ment deals has been a "great problem" for credit with the highest interest rates, re- senger traffic, VINCI said. celebrate Serbia's national saint who diose Yugoslav Army HQ in Nemanjina, The new Russia-sponsored mosaic in the St. Sava Church depicts Jesus Photo: Beta founded the destroyed during the NATO air strikes. Christ surrounded by angels, the Virgin Mary and the apostles. in 1219, and whose remains were burnt This, of course, is highly ironic, not He said Belgrade had had a "great" New In 2016, Pistaljka revealed that the city in Belgrade by the Ottomans in 1595. only given Serbia's strategic shift to- Year's Eve and also praised the entertain- authorities conducted the public pro- As well as honouring St Sava, the wards the West post-Milosevic but also the traumatic wars of the 1990s to the restrained assessments of Serbia and Claims ment programmes. curement by asking for decorations iden- marble-clad mega-church, which can because the EU and its member states Given the strength of anti-Western tabloids, a glance more often than not focus on problems Some members of the public criticized tical to those offered by the Greek compa- be seen from most of Belgrade, was have granted Serbia funds that have ex- increased rivalry over the 'gifts' Belgrade has received hints in the country, which unfortunately About them, however, complaining about over- ny Fotodiastasi, whose sole distributer in from the start a somewhat outsized ceeded three billion euros since 2000 – at a communication problem at the heart makes them sound scolding or conde- priced decorations hired under a contro- Serbia is Keep Light. The same company monument to the perseverance and far outstripping the value of assistance with Russia in the of many Western charm offensives. scending in comparison, even if their versial tender, and also about the cost of was awarded the job in 2017. ascendancy of the Serbian state, in and gifts Serbia has received from any- While EU members and other West- messages are, arguably, more helpful. Belgrade's the concert given by folk star . The city government was also mocked the same way that the National Mall in where else. past few years, it ern countries invest in projects that ben- Even the recent good news about the Lukas, who made headlines for stating for hanging up its Christmas and New Washington DC celebrates US power, Nevertheless, despite the size of its efit a lot more Serbs in the long run than improved chances of Serbia and Mon- Holiday that he "never allowed himself to be seen Year decorations several months ahead or the Houses of Parliament seek to im- assistance, the West seems to be strug- is probably even parks and mosaics, such as schools, ref- tenegro joining the EU by 2025 were by his children while on drugs", report- of holidays. In response to such criticism, press anyone coming to the heart of the gling to ingratiate itself with the average ugee centres and water treatment facili- delivered with little exuberance. Profits edly received 50,000 euros for his show the authorities said that decorations former British Empire. Serb. more worrying ties, only a few of them have captured Although bureaucratic high-minded- on New Year's Eve. "make people spend more money". The pinnacle of contemporary Although grants coming from the the imagination of the Serbian press or ness looks down on populist messaging The city's lavish decorations made Critics, however, have doubted this church art in Serbia, the mosaic is a four- EU amount to 75 per cent of all those for Western public. Few have the symbolic value of and efficiency-minded project forms Meet headlines ahead of holidays for being claim. Zlatko Minic, from the anti-corrup- million-euro gift from the Russian state- given to Serbia between 2000 and diplomats that a putting an ostentatious, if otherwise not prefer obscure public sector training to even more costly. tion NGO Transparency Serbia, told TV owned gas company Gazprom Neft 2015, when Serbs were asked who is overly practical, monument at a place investing in national monuments, the Scepticism In late December, the investigative N1 that he questioned the link between and was designed by Nikolai Mukhin, the most generous donor to Serbia in a significant chunk of historic significance showing off their occasional stroking of national egos in website Pistaljka.rs revealed that the city street lights and profits from tourism. an artist best known for his work on the 2017 survey, the EU was listed by only friendship with Serbia. small nations with traumatic recent had agreed to pay a hefty 83,000 euros "I dont believe people come here to restored Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 23 per cent of respondents, only a few of the Serbian Even in high-profile projects like the pasts like Serbia does seem to work City authorities for an 18-metre-high plastic Christmas see glowing bulbs, or that Chinese tour- in Moscow. It also one of the most effec- percentage points ahead of Russia and EU-funded reconstruction of the im- wonders for popularity and getting tree, installed in Belgrade's central pedes- ists will be rushing to hear Vukosavljevic, tive acts in Russia's continued bid to China. pressive fortress close to the your message across. trian . Vukomanovic, whatever it is," Minic told population still insist the Serbian Belgrade’s €83,000 Christmas tree in Knez Mihailova street. Photo: Beta strengthen its soft power in Serbia. Given the increased rivalry with of the Danube, or support Despite their geopolitical differences, Mayor Sinisa Mali had to promise to N1, referring to Lukas, whose real name is As soon as the gift was announced Russia in the past few years, it is prob- views the US, the to the UNESCO protected site of Felix the West could learn a lot from their capital made a Filip RUDIC However, the president of the city as- cancel the deal after facing embarrassing Aleksandar Vuksanovic. - and in subsequent reporting - it ably even more worrying for Western EU and especially Romuliana, the message of support Eastern rivals in making a small nation sembly, Nikola Nikodijevic, said no exact claims that the Serbian capital's tree cost Belgrade Economics Professor Goran was hailed by the press and Serbian diplomats that a significant chunk of and protection of Serbian heritage does feel welcome to the club. bumper profit elgrade City manager Goran information on profit or income had been far more than the much more splendid- Petkovic told N1 that seemed unlikely church officials as yet another symbol the Serbian population still views the NATO with high not seem to filter to the average Serb Vesic claimed that around processed as yet – adding that the exact looking spruce that New York puts up each that a hundred thousand tourists arrived of friendship and mutual support be- US, the EU and especially NATO with due to the often lifeless project-speak Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a from the holiday 130,000 tourists visited Bel- number of tourists in Belgrade over the year in front of the Rockefeller Centre. in Belgrade for the three or four days of tween the two Slavic (predominantly) high levels of distrust. Even the Serbian levels of distrust. employed by the West. founder of The Nutshell Times blog. Bgrade during the holiday season holiday remained unknown for now. The Keep Light Company, which pro- the holidays. Orthodox Christian nations. For those Foreign Minister Ivica Dacic, during an In general, rather than using effu- season, but some – but his claim has been challenged by "There may have been 130,000 [visi- vided the tree for Belgrade, eventually "One of the ways to measure cash in- who have missed the news, there are interview for popular talk show Cirilica sive language about centuries-long The opinions expressed in the Com- critics, and by another city official. tors]. We do not have accurate data on the said it would not charge the city for it. come from tourism is through exchange already a couple of large information broadcast by Happy TV last month, Although the reasons behind the lack friendships and historic ties, like their ment section are those of the authors critics challenge "We will make between 24 and 30 mil- number of lodgings in private accomoda- The company was already embroiled offices' turnout ... As far as I know, there boards dotted around St Sava, embla- said "the US, the UK and are far of Western soft power's 'bang for its bucks' Russian and Chinese counterparts, only and do not necessarily reflect the lion euros in profit from tourism alone," tion," Nikodijevic said on January 9, TV N1 in controversy over another tender to is no better mechanism to make the esti- zoned with intertwining Russian and from [Serbia's] true friends". in Serbia are complex, ranging from Western diplomats tend to offer more views of BIRN. the figures. Vesic told the press on January 1. reported. decorate the city. mate," Petkovic said. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 9 REGION FACES Flow of Migrants Drains Bosnia of its Youth

Dispirited by nev- behind. "I am worried about my parents. It is not easy for them," he says. er-ending politi- Dragan, standing in line behind Srdjan, makes a painful face. He has also found a cal quarrels and job in , as a forklift operator, but is troubled because he is leaving behind his a dire economic wife and their four-year-old son. "If everything goes well, by February I and social situa- should be there," Dragan says. "I am glad that I've got this chance, but I don't know tion, people are how it will be without my family. leaving Bosnia en "How will they do without me? It is not easy, but we don't have a choice," he mut- masse, searching ters. "You are right, it is not easy, but at least More and more people are leaving Bosnia to seek a better future elsewhere. Photo: Beta for better future you have a chance to give your family a life worth living," chips in Armin, who is stand- In Bosnia and Herzegovina, reliable based economist, Predrag Dudukovic, told days, after which they can go back to Slo- abroad. ing in line behind Dragan. statistics are difficult to obtain and no one BIRN. vakia if they want. Most of them do. This 40-year-old truck driver from the knows for sure how many people have left. Meanwhile, people continue to leave, The agency says there are always va- Danijel KOVACEVIC northwestern Bosnian town of Bihac has None of Bosnia's main statistical agen- according to some evidence, at an increas- cancies, and no special qualifications are worked in Slovenia since 2009. He came to cies [one state and two entity institutes] ing rate. needed because manual labour tasks can 'You Hope to Produce either the Christmas and the consulate this morning with his wife, publishes such data. Bosnia's state Labour and Employment be learned easily. New Year Eve's festivities, who will be joining him soon. In a written reply to BIRN, the Republika Agency says the number of people going In Republika Srpska, the average in- nor freezing temperatures, "My wife will come with me this time. Srpska Institute for Statistics noted that from Bosnia to work in Slovenia rose by 75 come even for those in work is around 400 drizzle and snow, have Her stay in Slovenia has been approved on the Law on Residence does not require per cent in 2017 compared to 2016 – 8,132 euros. In , they can take home 500 the Right Kind of stopped dozens of people the basis of family reunion, so she will be those who are leaving to notify the author- compared to 4,778 in 2016. or 600 euros a month – or more. Nfrom lining up in front of the Slovenian with me," he adds, smiling. ities that they have gone. And this only applies to cases in which "That's the wage for newcomers, and consulate in , Bosnia, every Dragan nods, and says he hopes his fam- However, some non-governmental or- the Agency mediated in employment. it's a lot more than I can earn here," Stefan Monday, Wednesday and Thursday. ily will be able to join him too, as soon as ganizations, such as the Union for Sustain- Srdjan and Dragan are not in this cat- says. This is when the office accepts applica- possible. able Return, estimate that some 35,000 egory, since they found their jobs with the Educated Bosnians are also leaving the Rebellion' tions for residency permits. "My plan is to get my family out of here. people left Bosnia only in 2017. help of friends and relatives who already country, but not to work manually in Slo- "I hope I have all the documents. Last I don't see that anything will change here Bosnian media recently reported that live and work there. vakia. They hope to get better jobs in more time, I stood here for three hours in the anytime soon," he concludes. approved 15,700 visas for Bos- developed countries such as Germany. Robert Telcer (left) in his studio in Vrbas. Photo: Darko Kurjak cold, just to realize that I was missing one," nians in 2016, and another 13,300 visas MANUAL WORKERS GO Ana and Zoran went there a year ago. Srdjan, from Knezevo in central Bosnia, LEAVING BOSNIA IN DRONES during the first nine months of 2017. Most TO SLOVAKIA, MEDICS They decided that they could not wait for One of the most 25,000 that lies 130 kilometres north of in the right light. They need money to produce something, no fear of how it The latest 'roughs' to catch his ear told BIRN. are believed to be working visas. TO GERMANY a better future in Bosnia, so they packed Belgrade. invest in instruments, to record songs, will turn out in the end." were from Seine, a self-styled folk/ Like most of those applying for residen- The debate that went on and on in the Some government officials in previous up their belongings and went to Germany prominent - An unusual place for a studio, it to enable themselves to do what they Part of the magic must be Telcer's punk trio. cy permits in Slovenia's consular offices line in front of the Slovenian consular of- months denied these claims, saying the On the morning of January 3, the first with their two young children, aged three has nevertheless produced dozens enjoy doing." love for the town of Vrbas. "It is beauti- "To me, these roughs actually have in or Banja Luka, Srdjan plans to fice in Banja Luka reflects an ongoing con- real numbers of migrants are lower, yet working day of 2018, a group of about 200 and five. ists of the 1990s of young, up and coming and well- Musicians who have worked with ful. And not just because of that beauti- the best sound… the best sound was leave Bosnia as soon as he gets the papers. versation in Bosnia – and a trend towards they, too, were unable to provide concrete people waited for their bus at Banja Luka's Both medics, working in Bosnia's state established bands. New bands such as Telcer resolutely return the love, with ful main street, or that canal, the most the one that came out of the recording Since 2016, an agreement between leaving the country that has been evident figures. main bus station. hospital system, they barely earned Serbian rock scene regional act Seine, Crvi and Crno Dete the band Nicim Izazvan, who burst onto polluted one in Europe, not even be- itself, that that was the moment. Bosnia and Slovenia has facilitated the le- for several years. The RS authorities until recently also Their destination was not Slovenia but enough to pay all their bills and loans for a is nurturing a new from Belgrade and Plastic Sunday and the regional scene in 2014 with singles cause of all of my habits, or because I "All the 'make up' you add afterwards gitimate employment of Bosnian citizens A series of political crises has affected refused to admit that the problem existed. Slovakia, where most of them have al- mortgaged apartment. Igralom from Nis, but also well-known like O tebi and Trideset, describing him feel safe there. Simply, there is a good is needless. And the only reason we do in the relatively wealthy former Yugoslav all walks of life in Bosnia, but especially That only changed after the RS Prime ready worked in the past. "We both had loans and lived on credit. generation of re- bands like Kanda Kodza i Nebojsa, as a "great man and a great musician" vibe. And everything we've done there it is because it is the trend that demands republic and EU member state. the economy and social and other public Minister, Zeljka Cvijanovic, in an interview "This is the second time I'm going to Slo- Loan for a vacation, a loan for a dishwash- , and Artan Lili have all made for whom "you could not find enough has turned out well. Actually, the more I it. The new production has significantly "I already got a job. It is waiting for me services. for the RS news agency SRNA on Thurs- vakia, and I am seeking a way to stay there. er, a loan for a washing machine, a loan for gional rock bands. use of Telcer's studio and his skill and paper to write plaudits". work there, the better it gets." killed the music, you lose the dynamics there in a car factory," Srdjan told BIRN, The political patronage system and cor- day, said the mainly Serbian entity was Everything here has failed; I would recom- a loan… it never ended," Ana recalls. advice. "All the songs we ever made were Asked about current and emerging of playing the instruments, you lose the patting a folder with "Renault" printed all ruption have created a situation in which aware that people were leaving. mend anyone to go abroad," 22-year-old In January 2017, they quit their jobs, I wanted to interview Telcer in his stu- written in his studio. Most were record- acts, Telcer says he likes Belgrade- feeling, the difference between when over it. political connections or bribes are often "People from the business community Stefan said. took one more loan, and went to Cologne. Milica MANCIC dio in Vrbas but, as luck would have it, ed there as well, and coupled with the based Repetitor. Formed in 2005 by you play quiet, when you play strong For Srdjan and most of the others stand- sought even for dead-end jobs. are aware that good workers are leaving, Stefan, who is one of the younger peo- As medical workers they had no prob- he was in Belgrade to promote his new limitless advice he gave us… he must guitarist and vocalist Boris Vlastelica – it all becomes pretty flat, sort of like ing in the line, a Slovenian residency per- As a result, more and more people and that they can only keep them with ple in this group, says a job is waiting for lem finding jobs there. "We were worried host of young bands are album with band Hevi Hipi Bejbi. The be the most important member of our and drummer Milena Milutinovic, electronic music." mit brings hope of better life – a solid job have been leaving the country and seek- good wages," she said. him in Slovakia in a factory assembling that the relocation and the new environ- rocking Belgrade's al- band managed without much media team," singer Boris Bakalov said in an they were soon joined by bass guitar- Still, Telcer muses, "apparently the and a regular income. Most of the people ing a better future either in Slovenia, "For this very reason, the government Samsung TVs. ment, new language, new people, would ternative scene, gather- fanfare to pack the Elektropionir music interview published by the Moja Srbija ist and vocalist Ana-Marija Cupin. The kids like it… They seem to be used to that standing in line on this cold winter day are Scandinavia, Germany, Australia, Can- has said that one of the priorities is in- Some of the men waiting for the bus for affect the children – but it ended up better ing crowds of local rock club last month, where fans mingled webzine in October 2014. band's debut album, Sve sto vidim kind of music, they don't care whether it young and very silent. ada, or some other country that offers creased salaries in the industrial sector," Slovakia say this is the third such group than we had hoped for," Zoran said. connoisseurs in under- with around half of Serbia's most influ- je prvi put, was met with praise by 'breathes', they only care if it grinds." Only Srdjan is happily chirping away, normal opportunities for normal, hard- she added. of workers leaving for Slovakia in the past "Sometimes I think that they adapted groundA clubs and smaller venues scat- ential musicians within the (admittedly 'NO PRESSURE, NO FEAR' music-lovers and critics alike, mak- Noting that "children like repetitive talking about his life and reasons for leav- working people. However, most RS residents saw her few months. better than the two of us." tered around the Dorcol and not too large) rock and alternative scene. ing them one of the most high-profile sounds", Telcer seems ambivalent, to ing Bosnia for Slovenia. Over the centuries, during crises or pledge as a little more than a pre-election The agency sending them to Slovakia At the beginning, only Ana was working, neighbourhoods. They all have one Asked what he wants to achieve as I asked Telcer about the studio and bands of the so-called New Serbian say the least, about the trend. Only 20 years old, he finished high wars, people often left Bosnia to seek a bet- slogan. provides free transport and accommoda- while Zoran learned German. Despite that, thing, or rather one person, in common: a musician and producer, Telcer told the bands that seem to emerge from it. Scene. "This is what is happening right now school last spring and never even consid- ter future. However, in the past, while the Economists also say that such pledges tion in hostels or dormitories. over that year they managed to pay back the guitarist Robert Telcer. BIRN: "You hope to produce the right "It is a space where things happen, "Recently I have [also] been listening with electronic music. I don't under- ered continuing his education in Bosnia. men went abroad, they left their families are too little, too late. An agency that helps organize such de- all their debts. Now they plan to buy a car. Best known for his work with two kind of rebellion. It is mainly achieved things that perhaps could not happen to Turisti [a band from Rijeka] and Plas- stand too much of it. Or, the whole song "What is the point, when there are no jobs behind and returned to them later. "It is good that the government has partures explains that workers from Bos- "Is it easy? No, it is not," Ana says. bands – playing guitar with through lyrics and music, of course, elsewhere," he says. "I have noticed tic Sunday is also excellent… I still don't becomes the refrain. This is what the here?" he asks. Now, experts say, entire families are finally started thinking about this. How- nia can legally reside and work in Slovakia "But it is incomparably better than in and from the 1990s on- not aggressive but rather efficient, in its that, over there, people feel relaxed. have a CD player, it is supposed to ar- new Serbian is about. I don't While he is confident that he will do well leaving, including those with small chil- ever, I do not think these measures will be for 90 days. Bosnia. And the best feeling of all is, now ward - Telcer has built from scratch and own way. " There is no feeling that you have actu- rive any day. So I listen to roughs [what mind, but if you turn your whole song in Slovenia, with his secure job in a car fac- dren. Many villages and small towns enough. These measures will not lead to After that, they have to return to Bos- when I buy food, I do not have to look at now successfully runs a music studio "We have world class musicians who ally come to a studio to play and record, remains on the studio's channels after into a single refrain, at least let it be a tory, his concern is about who he is leaving across Bosnia are being emptied. results soon. It takes time," a Banja Luka- nia where they have to spend another 90 the price, but the quality." called Samarcina in Vrbas, a town of lack resources to present themselves no pressure that you absolutely must recording]". good one." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY The Musician Making Highchairs for the Needy

The life of a musician can be quite tough as sometimes Mile comes home very late. But that doesn't stop him from waking up early and working on wood- en chairs for children. "Where there is a will, there is a way," the modest carpenter says. Apart from making highchairs and raising money for those who need it most, Mile also makes chairs for chil- dren with disabilities. He has made nine so far. The Ana I Vlade Divac Foundation, run by Vlade Divac, the former basket- ball player and his wife Ana, donated a special machine to him which makes the job of making such chairs much easier. "Each and every chair is different as not all the children suffer from the same form of illness," Mile explains. In order to make such a chair, the carpenter first has to visit a family and take measurements. That might be the toughest part, he admits. "Not everyone can do such job as those are really sad life stories."

FAMILY 'BUSINESS'

Mile has turned his charity into a family "business" as everyone in the house helps him as much as they can. "My 17-year-old son is with me in my workshop during weekends and holi- days. He hones and grinds, helps me put chairs together. He also goes with me to deliver chairs," Mile says. Meanwhile, his 14-year-old daughter decorates the chairs. "She is a girl so we Birdwatching spare her," he admits. However, the pillar of the house is Mile's wife Aleksandra, the carpenter says. "She is always there, she often Paradise on goes with me to visit families. Also, she a record of what we've done and families that are still in need." A few days before the New Year, Mile involved his own godfather in his char- the Borders of ity – making him Santa Claus and trav- Carpenter Mile in his workshop. Photo: Courtesy of Milorad Jurkovic elling with him all over Serbia to bring presents to children from poor families. chairs for families in need, totally free ers, while people can also reach him "I was his helper and an animator," Belgrade Harmonica player of charge. via his Serbian-language website www. Mile says with a smile. In that time, Mile has managed to stolarmile.com. He would be the first one to enter by night, carpen- make and donate 1,200 highchairs for "We use this large number of Face- a child's room and have a small chat Nicknamed the Belgrade Amazon, is home to 136 species of bird, as well as several other creatures and creepy crawlies. Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjic babies all over the country. On top of book followers to point out children with him or her. Asking if they were ter by day - Milo- highchairs, he has also made a number with disabilities and families that need For example, good this year, what grades they had of wooden beds and taken part in cam- help as many of them are silent and and would they be so kind to help him president of the League for Ornithologi- now, someone wants to cover all this tourism, but no one seems to care rad Jurkovic helps paigns to raise funds both for families in don't want to ask for help," Mile said, I post [on make some magic, Mile explains. Mean- Beljarica, a floodplain on the left bank of the cal Action of Serbia, LOA, would like to life with concrete." about that possibility. Several days ago I need and for children with disabilities. adding that he posts photos and calls while, his godfather waits for a sign be- Facebook] that Danube, is home to more than 130 species of do more to help the wildlife. He is con- LOA initiated the main campaign saw river otters just there," he says. families all over But what made him start this unu- for action. hind a closed door. stantly taking notes about the quanti- to protect Beljarica back in 2010. The He interrupts himself, spotting the sual 'job' and finance it almost entirely "People respond to our calls [for ac- I need glue, and "Then we snap our fingers and Santa bird, and several mammals, fish, and amphib- ties of the various species of birds we project, called Wings over Balkans, was pair of white tailed eagles taking off Serbia by making from his own pocket? tion]," Mile says. Just recently a family Claus enters the room, making kids see. LOA organises bird watching tours supported by Bird Life International. from a large tree, far on the other side of "It all started on May 9, 2015, when from Zagreb, Croatia, called him after then people call enormously happy," Mile says. ians. But now, it faces an imminent threat. and leads public awareness campaigns The Belgrade Secretariat for Environ- the channel. Three pairs of the largest free highchairs I came back from a supermarket out- they saw a Facebook post and sent a "We went everywhere – Beocin, Novi to help prevent the destruction of this mental Protection accepted the initia- bird of prey in Europe have made their raged by the prices I saw. As I had al- wheelchair for the disabled child of a me and send it Sad, Srbobran, Temerin, Kragujevac, Vr- natural pearl. tive and directed it towards the Nation- homes here. The vision of their flight is and chairs for dis- ready made such chairs for some of my family in Beska, a village in Vojvodina. sac. Even snow caught us in the town of "According to government plans, the al Institute for Nature Conservation, breathtaking. friends' children, I posted on Facebook "The family from Zagreb even paid to me. Or I say Arandjelovac," he recalls. Milan RADONJIC For a short moment we stand frozen Port should be build right which in 2013 completed the elaborate "They build their nests in the larg- abled youngsters. that I can make a free highchairs for a for a truck to bring it here," Mile recalls. I need wooden What did you learn after these two in a tableau, but as I break the stillness here," he says stressing that Beljarica is proposal to protect the area. est and oldest trees, like oak, or ash, family who needs it," Mile told BIRN. Even though he mostly pays for eve- and a half years of wandering across e really have reaching for my camera, the bird is al- not only safe haven for domestic and returning every year to the same spot A highchair costs between 40 and rything, "people with good hearts" call pallets, or gas, Serbia and helping others, I ask Mile as to save this ready taking off. The close distance of migratory birds, but also safeguards 'A FRAGILE SYSTEM' for nesting. But those trees are also be- 250 euros in Serbia, which is a lot for him to offer either money or material. we are about to finish our conversation. place," says its beating wings has a mesmerising ef- Belgrade from floods. coming rare as they are replaced with Ivana NIKOLIC families with unemployed parents or "For example, I post [on Facebook] and they donate. "What did I learn? I've learnt there is ornithologist fect, and my reflexes are not quite fast He says this was the reason why the In summer of 2015, the proposal was fast-growing industrial types of trees parents who earn the minimum wage - that I need glue, and then people call good and there is evil. Unfortunately, Dragan Simic enough to capture the desired image of Kingdom of Yugoslavia's hydrologists sent to a Belgrade City assembly ses- like the Canadian poplar. It is a fragile ot many people know about 200 euros per month. It does not, me and send it to me. Or I say I need There is always evil is always worse while good only "Was we approach the Beljarica floodplain. the majestic creature. decided to build some 89 kilometres of sion but was withdrawn in the last mo- system and every intervention in it cre- him by his full name, therefore, come as a surprise that his wooden pallets, or gas, and they do- sometimes comes to surface, pushing someone eager It covers nearly 900 hectares of marsh- embankment here in the 1930s, pulling ment, just before the vote took place. ates consequences. We need to act now but everyone in Serbia generous offer provoked an avalanche nate. There is always someone eager to the evil down," Mile says. land and channels, a mere 15 kilome- PAVING PARADISE? it several kilometres back from the Dan- One year later, in August 2016, the to prevent its disappearance. " knows this 47-year-old of calls. help," Mile says with a smile. to help. But, it is all up to us and our goodwill, tres from Serbia's capital. Nicknamed ube river bed: construction of the new port was an- Leaving Beljarica, one question man from Rakovac, a "In only two days, my Facebook liter- This Vojvodina carpenter earns a he adds. We should not wait for state in- the Belgrade Amazon, it is home to 136 There are presently plans looming to "Obviously this was done not to nounced – on Beljarica. arises: Could there be some way of pre- Ntiny village in the northern province of ally crashed because of the number of living by playing harmonica in a band. stitutions to react but take matters into species of bird, as well as several other construct a port at Beljarica. Ministry of make a home for migratory birds, river "There are some 12 kilometres of serving this beautiful habitat, or will we Vojvodina, by his nickname: Stolar Mile [Facebook] messages I got," the carpen- While in the past he played in taverns our own hands. creatures and creepy crawlies. Infrastructure announcements and a otters and the white-tailed eagle, but to channels here, and the shallows are continue attempting to exploit nature's or 'Carpenter Mile'. ter recalls. that is not the case anymore. "We don't have to wait for someone A large buzzard, elegantly poised feasibility study suggest that construc- provide the space for a potential flood bursting with wildlife," Dragan says as resources? Just seeing this peaceful He became famous and much loved Ever since then, Facebook became "Now we play at organised celebra- else, it is enough to look around our- atop a lifted entrance barrier bids us a tion of the new harbour will likely begin wave to expend itself in these fields we pass by a flock of ducks searching place, the answer should be obvious. after he started his charity two and his main working channel. His profile tions, as nowadays there in no money in selves and check whether someone timely welcome. in spring 2018. Dragan, who is also the and not in the city of Belgrade. And for food. "It is just perfect for nature Unfortunately, to some, it isn't. a half years ago that produces high- Stolar Mile has around 60,000 follow- [taverns] anymore," he explains. Milorad Jurkovic needs our help," Mile concludes. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Marina Abramovic Finally CLUBBING Returns Home After 44 years, the most AND LIVE MUSIC celebrated performance

artist in the world today, Arts in brief Serbia-born Marina Abramovic, is finally going FRIDAY JANUARY 12 • , Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Jazz Night, Polet, Cetinjska to hold a new art show in 9pm 15, 9pm Belgrade. A retrospective • Ana Never + Palms Voice, • Majora, Secer, Svetogorska • Bandwidth, DOT, Francuska exhibition of Abramovic's Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 17, 11pm 6, 11pm work will be on display 8pm • 10 Hours Techno | Goran • RNB Thursday's Delight, at the newly renovated • Sara Renar, Kvaka 22, Kan (MK), Luka Concrete & Brankow, Crnogorska 12, Museum of Contemporary Ruzveltova 39, 10pm Bojan Vukmirovic, KPTM, 11.30pm Art. Don't get too excited • Rok Bulevar, Zappa Barka, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm • Nebojska Intruder, Ludost just yet, though - the Usce bb, 10pm • Mancha 34 After Fiesta, Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm exhibition doesn't open until • Heller, Fest Club, Gradski KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, September 2019. park bb, 10:30pm 4am FRIDAY JANUARY 19 • Sinth and Pop, Grad Cultural • Orthodox New Year Party, American Pop Art at Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm • JapaLkan, Vuk Karadzic Colakovic Legacy 11pm • Duboka Ilegala, Kvaka 22, Cultural Centre, Bulevar • Electric Funx, Tranzit Bar, Ruzveltova 39, 9pm Kralja Aleksandra 77а, 7pm Fans of pop art are in for Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm • Central Dance Event, • Zasto Kafka, Studentski a treat as the Colakovic • DJ Iron, Kaldrma Bar, Hangar, Knezopoljska 3, 10pm Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Legacy is putting on an Skadarska 40, 8pm • Johannes Heil, Drugstore, Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm exhibition by some of the • Andrija Milosevic, Zaokret, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, • Francois X presents most celebrated pop artists, Cetinjska 15, 7pm 11pm Irregular Passion at KOLARAC including Andy Warhol, • Faith In Feet, DOT, Francuska • Danijel Chehranov All Yugovinyl, Drugstore, Bulevar James Rosenquist and Tom Wesselmann. The works 6, 11pm Night Long, Tranzit Bar, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm that will be on display are • Damjanov Zelenko, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm • Sam.Luda x 031, DOT, PROGRAMME normally part of the Visconti Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm • Andrija Milosevic, Kaldrma Francuska 6, 11pm Fine Art collection in Milan. Bar, Skadarska 40, 8pm , • Stevie Whisper All Night • ZULI (Live) UIQ/Kairo The exhibition will last from Long, 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm • Skandinavia Night + Lost 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm January 12 to March 12. • Bombe Devedesetih, KPTM, Boys, Imago CUK, Decanska • The FUNK w/ Iron & Necone, Standard tickets cost four Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm 14, 10pm Secer, Svetogorska 17, 11pm FRIDAY, JANUARY 12 TUESDAY, JANUARY 16 euros, children and students • Rainbow w/ Zoe, Banda • O Carneval!, Zaokret, pay two euros. Panda & Alek Boskovic, Cetinjska 15, 10pm SATURDAY JANUARY 20 • Concert Hall, 7pm • Music Gallery, 6pm Secer, Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Orthodox New Year Party, • Serbian Orthodox Cantors • Final Piano Concert of the Arias at Artget • Hang Out Until Party Is Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm • Marchelo, Elektropionir, • The Fourth New Year & Master class students Gallery Over, Mr Stefan Braun, • TAPAN LIVE Jam Session + Cetinjska 15, 9pm Christmas Concert of Serbian • by Professor Jokut Mihailovic Nemanjina 4, 12am Dj Schwaba & Toshke Klub, • Zemlja Gruva, Gradski park Traditional Music • Production: Music Centre Young and talented Serbian 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm bb, 10pm • Ticket fees: 600 dinars • Admission free soprano Anastasija Minjevic, SATURDAY JANUARY 13 • Luka Vukovic, Nixon, • Beach Alarm, Polet, accompanied by pianist SATURDAY, JANUARY 13 FRIDAY, JANUARY 19 Misarska 7, 9pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm Hrvoje Ivovic, will perform • Bjesovi, Fest Club, Gradski • Cojke & Malina, Ludost Bar, • Seine, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova some of the most popular • Concert Hall, 8pm park , 10:30pm Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm 39, 10pm • Concert Hall, 12am • Belgrade Philharmonic • Belgrade Philharmonic arias from Don Giovanni, The • 16 OSAM 23, Elektropionir, • Cojke & Malina, Ludost Bar, Orchestra Orchestra Marriage of Figaro, Cosi Fan Cetinjska 15, 9pm SUNDAY JANUARY 14 Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Conductor: Aleksandar Kojic • Conductor: Cristian Mandeal Tutte and La Spagnola at • Scepine Vragolije meets • Narrator: Branislava Podrumac • Soloist: Aleksandar Latkovic, the Artget Gallery, Belgrade Kezz, Grad Cultural Centre, • Gipsy Jazz, Polet, Cetinjska SUNDAY JANUARY 21 • John Williams: Harry Potter and cello Cultural Centre on Monday, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm 15, 8pm Philosopher's Stone, Children's • Programme: L. Boccherini, D. January 15 at 8pm. Entrance • Naked, Strogi Centar, • WyrdSisters, Grad Cultural • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Suite for Orchestra Shostakovich is free of charge. Belgrade Theatre Gospodar Jevremova 43, 9pm Centre, Brace Krsmanovica Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Production: Belgrade • Production: Belgrade • Rain Dogs, Ciglana, Slanacki 4, 8pm Philharmonic Orchestra Philharmonic Orchestra Video Art at put 126, 10pm • Zappa Tombola, Zappa MONDAY JANUARY 22 • Ticket information: +318 11 • Ticket information: +381 11 Podroom Gallery 2630744 2630744 Celebrates New Year Barka, Usce bb, 8pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan • Hot Chocolate, Mr Stefan Antoaneta Marinov has SATURDAY, JANUARY 13 SUNDAY, JANUARY 21 Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm curated a selection of video art pieces by various in Style • Music Gallery, 6pm • Concert Hall, 11am international artists, which MONDAY JANUARY 15 TUESDAY JANUARY 23 • Final concert of the piano course • Cycle: Kolarac Podium of will be on display from participants by prof. Jokut Chamber Music January 12 to February 3. Dancers from the much-celebrated Chinese Dance Company will perform Fen Mo, a showcase of traditional Chinese dances, on Saturday, January 20 at 8pm. Photo: Festival and Congress Centre Varna • Sun Magnet + Hold Station, • Bitipatibi, Studentski Grad Mihailovic • Ensemble "" On Saturday, January 13, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova 39, Cultural Centre, Bulevar • Admission free • Production: Music Centre Marinov will be present to This is a tradition that has been going Dance Academy. The dancers from Fen Mo uses traditional elements in 9pm Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm • Admission free The National The- strong since the first gala event in 1995. this company, more than 30 of them, these dances, employing everything SUNDAY, JANUARY 14 provide a guided tour of the • Hot Chocolate – Xmass • Comeback Kid, Blankfile, Each year, this special concert brings will perform Fen Mo, a showcase of tra- from the dancers' breath, hair and MONDAY, JANUARY 22 exhibition and participate Special, Mr Stefan Braun, Lazarath, Dom Omladine, atre will kick off together the brightest stars of the Na- ditional Chinese dance, on Saturday, hands, to stilts, fans, swords, and cos- • Concert Hall, 11am in a Q&A afterward, both in Nemanjina 4, 11pm Makedonska 22, 9pm tional Theatre; soloists as well as the January 20 at 8pm. tumes that perfectly convey traditional • Cycle: Kolarac Podium of • Music Gallery, 6pm English. The Podroom Gallery the Serbian New FREE COPY • Demo Fest, Fest Club, orchestra and choir. The artists will per- The Chinese Dance Academy was Chinese spiritual and emotional motifs Chamber Music • Lidija Bojinovic, violin is open Monday to Saturday TUESDAY JANUARY 16 Gradski park Zemun, 9pm • Piano quintet • Admission free from 12 noon to 8pm. Year with a couple form popular arias, duets, quartets, sex- founded in 1954 and has established such as love, grief, devotion, sadness, ex- Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • A Weill Ago, Polet, Cetinjska • Soloists: Mina Mendelson, violin tets and choral works penned by some itself as the most prestigious dance cellence - motifs that are essential in the WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 24 Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Demo Fest, Fest Club, 15, 9pm • Sasa Mirkovic, viola Tech-Dance of fabulous, fes- of the greatest and most renowned in- school in the country over the years, Chinese cultural and artistic tradition. Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Gradski park Zemun, 9pm • Malinada, Ludost Bar, ternational composers of all time. offering middle, superior and higher This extraordinary event is spon- • Vladislav Mezei, cello • Music Gallery, 6pm Performance at tive treats for mu- This year, the audience can expect education curriculums to groups of sored by the Chinese Ministry of Cul- Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric • URBAN Salsa Party , Imago Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Marija Djukic, piano • Soloists: Branka Panic, soprano Bitef Theatre BIRN editorial team: CUK, Decanska 14, 10pm • Programme: Mozart, Brahms • Milan Panic, tenor to hear excerpts from Saint-Saens' Sam- carefully selected students each year. ture and Chinese Embassy in Belgrade • Production: Music Centre sic and art lovers son and Dalilah, Rossini's Semiramide, This 'cradle of dancers', as it is known in and endorsed by the Serbian Ministry Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, • Malinada, Ludost Bar, WEDNESDAY JANUARY 24 • Production: Music Centre The Bitef Theatre dance • Admission free • Admission free Donizetti's Don Pasquale and Lucia di China, currently employs close to 600 of Culture and Information. belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm company, in collaboration alike. eu.com • Mastering w/ Lammermoor, Puccini's La Boheme and teachers and has more than 3,500 stu- Again, be sure to grab your tickets with renowned Serbian Turandot, Lehar's The Merry Widow, dents enrolled. quickly because the seats in the upper Sales & Marketing: Marija WEDNESDAY JANUARY 17 Gramophonedzie & Oysha, multimedia artist Incredible Petrovic Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, David GALIC Verdi's Macbeth and Aida, and many Fen Mo is a performance that repre- circle are already sold out, but fortu- Bob, have created a unique more. The concert will feature three sents the perfect showcase of the com- nately, you can grab a seat in the gallery Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Nesha Bridges, Fest Club, 10pm performance piece that he Serbian New Year will celebrated Serbian conductors: Ana pany's very elaborate and academic for in between four and six euros. [email protected] Gradski park Zemun, 9pm combines elements of light start with a bang at the Zorana Brajovic, Djordje Pavlovic and approach to traditional Chinese dance. But if you can't make this performance, Subscription & Distribution: • Spanish Music Night, Polet, THURSDAY JANUARY 25 installation, contemporary most renowned theatre Zorica Mitev Vojnovic. It is inspired by the unique aesthetics Fen Mo will be performed two days ear- Goran Knezevic Cetinjska 15, 8:30pm dance and electronic music in the country, first with If you're thinking of going to this con- of traditional Chinese painting and cal- lier in on Thursday, January 18 +381 63 562 265 • Mastering w/ • Humanitarian Concert, TRA T T O R I A (composed specifically for a gala concert on Serbian cert, which is highly recommended, it's ligraphy, the way the ink permeates the at the Serbian National Theatre. [email protected] Gramophonedzie & Oysha, Gradski park Zemun, 9pm the show by Petar Mirkovic TNew Year's Eve followed by a Chinese best to hurry up because the priciest delicate rice paper and dissolves into Also coming up in January at the Na- PIZZER I A Printing: stamparija Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, • Discretion pres: Society and Strahinja Beganovic), dance theatre extravaganza a week tickets are already gone and there are dark and light, opaque and transparent, tional Theatre are the premiere of Bran- d.o.o. 10pm Music Showcase, DOT, and narrated by Belgrade later. only gallery seats and standing-room wet and dry shapes and forms. These islav Nusic's famous play The Bereaved ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Francuska 6, 11pm art and counterculture icon On Saturday, January 13, the date on tickets currently available for the price dynamics are perfectly mimicked Family on Friday, January 19, Tchaiko- Johnny Rackovic. Called Insight THURSDAY JANUARY 18 • RNB Thursday's Delight, Nebojsina 8 which Serbs celebrate their New Year's of four euros. by the dancers themselves and their vsky's The Nutcracker on Wednesday, Buffer, the performance COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 011/3863-999 Eve (since, according to the Julian Cal- The other highly recommended movements – breathing in and out, be- January 24 and Kingdom of Heaven-Ep- takes place at the Bitef Circulation: 2,000 • Bane Gluvakov Trio, Fest 11:30pm [email protected] endar, the year officially starts on Janu- event the National Theatre has pre- ing perfectly still or moving the small- ica Balcanica a joint production by the Theatre on Friday, January Club, Gradski park Zemun, • Nebojska Intruder, Ludost www.restoranamici.rs ary 14), the National Theatre will throw pared for this January is a visiting per- est of muscles in their bodies, opening National theatre and the Bitef Theatre 10pm Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm 19 at 8pm. its traditional New Year's Gala Concert. formance by the celebrated Chinese and closing, rising and falling. in Belgrade, on Friday, January 26. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Gvozdjara 1870

beers. The mlíko pour (milk beer) gives A relatively you a little bit or beer at the bottom and the rest of the glass in foam. This pour new addition to is typically served at the end of the night and the foam is supposed to give the Savamala drinkers a bit of energy to help them get home quickly and safely from the bar. neighbourhood, If you want to try something other than Czech beer, there are over 100 Gvozdjara 1870 is different beers available in bottles here as well. However, the Czech beer comes the perfect place highly recommended, especially since the food menu was also created to for people who pair incredibly well with this style of beverage. The menu offers traditional love beer, food Czech roasted pork knee, sausages and goulash. Of course, all of these and music. dishes are served with warm Bavarian pretzels on the side. They also serve typically Serbian grilled meat dishes like cevapi and the David GALIC burger menu is outstanding if you're looking for more of an American bar ocated right under the food experience. Brankov Bridge, Gvozdjara Gvozdjara 1870 is also exceptionally Slavija in the old days. Photo: Unknown Photo: Unknown 1870 gets its name from well decked out in the popular the hardware store that industrial style. Bare brick walls, lots occupied the building in of wood and metal, as most trendy Lwhich the pub now resides and was bars are decorated these days, built and opened in 1870. As the name give Gvozdjara 1870 a very inviting suggests, the bar is very much about atmosphere and while this seems to be tradition. an easy, go-to look for a lot of modern Gvozdjara 1870 has two of the most bars, you can tell that Gvozdjara 1870 popular and esteemed Czech beers spared no expense to make its interior on tap at all times, Pilsner Urquell and stand out. Kozel. Not only are Czech beers the The pub itself is also pretty large, beverage of choice here, the staff also with about 30 tables in the main area pour these beers in traditional Czech of the bar. During the summer, they'll Gvozdjara 1870 is an absolutely perfect place to start the evening and enjoy great beer, high-quality food and excellent music. Photo: Facebook/Gvozdjara 1870 ways that most other beer bars in also open a fantastic courtyard behind Belgrade do not: hladinka, šnyt, and the building, which is tucked in among bands in Belgrade, Betty Boom, have heart of Belgrade's very popular nightlife nights at Gvozdjara 1870. Everything is mlíko. many old buildings and can be very become residents at Gvozdjara 1870 oasis, the Savamala neighbourhood, top-class, from the beer and food to Hladnika is your standard pour cool and quiet during the summer, and perform here very regularly. giving you a plethora of bars and clubs the music and service. It's easily one of with very little foam on top. Once the despite being located right off the main The bar is open from 5pm to 1am to choose from that are all located the top places to visit in Savamala and foam clears, the beer should be at the street of Karadjordjeva. every night, so while it might not be a within 200 to 300 metres of the pub. Belgrade in general, especially if you're half-litre mark. The second is a lesser- The patrons of Gvozdjara 1870 are place where you can hang out late into The staff at Gvozdjara 1870 is plentiful a fan of authentic Czech beer and food. known pour, šnyt means two fingers usually a bit older, 30s and up. The the night, it's an absolutely perfect place and courteous. They also all speak of beer, three of foam and one finger music is usually oriented towards rock to kick the night off, enjoy great beer, English very well, given that Savamala Gvozdjara 1870 empty glass. This is a method preferred and pop with live bands and DJs on high-quality food and excellent music. is a very popular tourist attraction. All in Address: Karadjordjeva 43 by beer connoisseurs who are at the the weekends playing mostly foreign If you'd like to keep the night going, all, there's hardly anything you can find Contact: +381 65 8881870 pub to try small samples of a variety of music. One of the better live music Gvozdjara 1870 is located right in the to complain about when spending your www.facebook.com/pg/ gvozdjara1870 Belgrade Metal Mini-Fest Parisian Techno Star as we once knew it with its statue of Dimitrije Tucovic. Photo: Unknown Slavija Square today. Photo: Beta at Hala Sportova at Yugovinyl and Drugstore

H Concerts is kicking off a year of metal concerts in ne of Paris' biggest young techno stars, Francois X, will be style with a mini-festival at the Hala Sportova arena coming to Belgrade on Friday, January 19 to promote in New Belgrade. The festival will be headlined by his debut album Irregular Passion. This album, along The Turbulent History of MGerman thrash legends Kreator, who are probably Owith two prior EPs, completes a musical trilogy that the most influential and popular European thrash metal band he composed that was entirely inspired by cult sci-fi film Blade of all time. Coming with them to Belgrade will be Polish death Runner. metal masters Vader, French groove metal squad Dagoba and While it's nothing new for a European techno star to be spin- Belgrade's Slavija Square industrial metal neighbours Noctiferia from Slovenia. ning at Drugstore, what makes this event special is that he will To complete the line-up, there will be two Serbian bands be signing and selling records at Yugovinyl on Cetinjska street. playing: speed metal legends Bombarder representing the old This will be the first ever foreign electronic music album release building a neighbourhood which, ironically, became Despite Slavija's socialist connections, a wealthy school, and death/thrash outfit Infest representing the new wave promo event held in Belgrade. The party itself starts at 11pm at of Serbian metal. This massive metal event takes place on Friday, Drugstore with local DJ Nemanja Godjevac spinning first. Tickets From Scottish known as Englezovac or 'English town'. Serbian merchant and owner of several upmarket January 19 and tickets cost €35 at the door. cost six euros at the door. The main square of Englezovac featured a 'Hall of department stores, Vlada Mitic, bought a large plot missionaries to Peace', where Mackenzie performed his philanthrop- of land on the square, where he planned to build the ic activities of educating less fortunate Belgraders largest department store in the Balkans. His plans were Yugoslav communists to and, since the mid-1890s, a hotel named Slavija, a thwarted by World War II and the subsequent arrival of nod to the pan-Slavic movement. the Communist Party, who nationalised the land but left McDonald's, Belgrade's The philanthropic activities devoted to the poor it undeveloped, which led to the section of the square Slavija Square has been in the Hall of Peace made it a perfect place for the between Beogradska and Kralja Milana streets being budding socialist movement. In 1910, it was bought by named 'Mitic's hole'. Mitic's grand store was not the only home to them all. Dimitrije Tucovic's Serbian Social Democratic Party casualty of the war at Slavija. The Nazis destroyed the and Worker's Union and turned into the Socialist Peo- old hotel and built the square's much-hated roundabout. ple's Club, a base for their activities and publications. During socialist times, in a piece of rather macabre Progressive Metal Band In 1919, the Slavija hosted a meeting of various urban design, the remains of Dimitrije Tucovic were Fates Warning in Belgrade Gig Announced by Celebrate Serbian New Year´s Srdjan Garcevic socialist, social democratic and worker's move- placed in the middle the square and the new hotel Post-Rockers Ana Never Eve with German Techno ments from across the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats Slavija was built. However, as Yugoslavia started After finally visiting Belgrade for the ated by drivers and considered the and Slovenes, at which the first Yugoslav Communist to crumble in the 1980s, Slavija's communist spirit Rapper Marchelo's first time in 2014, one of the most After taking a break from live shows, Comeback Kid Comes If you're looking to celebrate Serbian ugliest square in Belgrade for its many Party was founded. The party won the subsequent was slowly eroded. In 1989, the communist heart of Birthday Bash at Elektropionir influential progressive metal bands of Serbia's most accomplished post-rock Back to Belgrade New Year – that's Saturday, January gaps, Slavija's riveting history began as an municipal elections in Belgrade, but was barred from Belgrade became the home of the first McDonald's all time, Fates Warning, will be coming band Ana Never will be playing in 13 - a little less traditionally, come down attempt to introduce British-style urban taking power and banned in 1921. in the Balkans and a few years later the old Slavija One of Serbia's most popular rappers, back to Serbia. Not only are they pro- Belgrade on Friday, January 12 at Elek- Canadian hardcore/punk stalwarts to Drugstore to listen to some cutting- H Marchelo, who is also an author and moting their twelfth albumTheories of tropionir. Often compared to seminal Comeback Kid will be playing Belgrade edge German techno. Headlining the planning to Belgrade. After its tenants were forced underground, the So- cinema, birthplace of Serbian socialism, was cleared comic book curator, will be throwing Flight, they are also playing Belgrade Canadian post-rockers Godspeed for the second time ever, with a show night will be Johannes Heil, who has The development of the square began with Fran- cialist People's Club was turned into a restaurant and to make way for a parking lot. his annual birthday party concert on and performing in a handful of other You! Black Emperor, Ana Never are scheduled for Tuesday, January 23 at been putting out records since 1996. cis Mackenzie, an enterprising Scottish missionary then remodelled into a handsome art deco cinema, Finally, in 2016, Dimitrije Tucovic's remains were Saturday, January 20. It will take place European countries in order to record known for creating compelling audio/ Dom Omladine. The band will be sup- A huge list of locals will be supporting who moved to the city in 1876 in the hope of per- also named Slavija. Nevertheless, Slavija's socialist removed from the roundabout and replaced, after at Elektropionir and he will be backed a brand new live album. The concert visual experiences on stage. Tickets ported by two local bands of the same him, including TKNO, Kristina Lalic, suading Belgraders to devote more time to the Bible, connections remained strong and the square was year-long renovation works, by the controversial by a five-piece live band. Tickets cost will be held on Thursday, January 25 at for the event cost just three euros and genre, Belgrade's Blankfile and Lazar- Kaen, Black Room, Rope and several rather than smoking and drinking. In 1879 he bought the site of a mass student and workers' protest on 14 'musical' fountain that occasionally blasts out Mi- six euros at the door and the show is Dom Omladine and tickets cost €22 at the opening band for the night will be ath from Novi Sad. Tickets cost €13 at more DJs. Tickets cost six euros at the a large patch of marshy land, drained it and started December 1939. chael Jackson tunes to all and sundry. expected to sell out, so book early. the door. newcomers Palms Voice. the door on the night of the show. door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 12 - Thursday, January 25, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

Opera, Ballet SUNDAY JANUARY 21 SATURDAY JANUARY 13 TUESDAY JANUARY 23 THURSDAY JANUARY 18 and Classical • Ensemble Renaissance, Kolarac • Exhibition: “American PopArt”, • Book presentation “Three Days”, • Electra (Kis), National Theatre in Podium of Chamber Music Heritage House, Knez Mihailova 46, Ljiljana Jovanovic, Ilija M. Kolarac Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm FRIDAY JANUARY 12 Cycle, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • The Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), Studentski trg 5, 11am • Characters in the Documentary , Kralja • Serbian Orthodox Cantors, Ilija M. • Bolshoi Theater 2017/18, direct SUNDAY JANUARY 14 004, Studentski Grad Cultural Milana 50, 8pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg ballet broadcasts of the Bolshoi Centre, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica FRIDAY JANUARY 19 5, 7pm Theater, Romeo and Juliet, • Exhibition: “Critics Choice”, Art 179, 7pm • Ballet: Who is Singing Out There Cineplexx Usce Shopping Center, Gallery, Cultural Center of Belgrade, • The Importance of Being Ernest 3:45pm Knez Mihailova 6, 7pm THURSDAY JANUARY 25 (Kostic), National Theatre in (Wilde), National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm MONDAY JANUARY 22 MONDAY JANUARY 15 • Meteorologists talking about • Right You Are, If You Think So SATURDAY JANUARY 13 weather and climate, Ilija M. (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama • Lidija Bojinovic (violin), Ilija M. • Forum of the Society of Fantasy Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Belgrade Philharmonic Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Fans "Lazar Komarcic", Star Wars 5, 6pm Orchestra, Aleksandar Koijic 5, 6pm – The Last Jedi, Dom Omladine, SATURDAY JANUARY 20 (conductor), Ilija M. Kolarac • Jelena Kostic (piano), SANU Makedonska 22, 7pm Theatre Gallery, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm , National Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 12pm • Coffee White (Popovic) • Tijana Djuricic (soprano), TUESDAY JANUARY 16 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • New Year’s Gala Concert, National FRIDAY JANUARY 12 Milivoje Veljic (piano), Aleksandar 8:30pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • A Suspicious Person (Nusic), Budimir (accordion), Artget Gallery, • Pop Literature, Studentski Grad • The Orchestra (Anouilh), National 8pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Trg Republike 5, 8pm Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Djindjica 179, 7pm Milana 50, 8pm SUNDAY JANUARY 14 8:30pm WEDNESDAY JANUARY 24 • Tartuffe (Moliere), Yugoslav SUNDAY JANUARY 21 WEDNESDAY JANUARY 17 Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, • Piano quartet, Ilija M. Kolarac • Branka Panic (soprano), Milan 8pm • Othello (Shakespeare), Yugoslav Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am Panic (tenor), Ilija M. Kolarac • Exhibition: Stevan Boskovic, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, • Belgrade’s New Year Concert, RTS Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm SANU Gallery, Knez Mihailova 35, SATURDAY JANUARY 13 8pm Choir and Symphony Orchestra, • Ballet: Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky), 10am • Three Hammers (Leskovar), Dom Bojan Sudjic (conductor), Sava National Theatre in Belgrade, • My Movie is Better Than Yours, • The Possessed (Dostoyevsky), Omladine, Makedonska 22, 5pm Centar, Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm Francuska 3, 7:30pm Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, National Theatre in Belgrade, • Opera: Aida (Verdi), National 7pm Francuska 3, 8:30pm MONDAY JANUARY 22 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, THURSDAY JANUARY 25 • Short Film Festival, Studentski • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman), 7pm Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Death and the Dervish • Trio, Sonja Markovic (piano), Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm Milana 50, 8pm (Selimovic), National Theatre in MONDAY JANUARY 15 Sonja Vojvodic (violin), Lidija • Poetry Night, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Paulin (cello), SANU Gallery, Knez 7pm SUNDAY JANUARY 14 • Bizarre (Hubac), National Theatre • Nikola Zdravkovic (piano), SANU Mihailova 35, 6pm in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm Gallery, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm • Opera: Othello (Verdi), National THURSDAY JANUARY 18 • Dust (Spiro), National Theatre in • It Had to be So (Nusic), Yugoslav Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, • Anastasija Minjevic (soprano), Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • The Kraut Girl (Lazarevic), 8pm Hrvoje Ivovic (piano), Artget 7pm • The Ideas of the Old Vedas and the Work of Nikola Tesla, Ilija M. Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Gallery, Trg Republike 5, 8pm TUESDAY JANUARY 23 Exhibitions Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Milana 50, 8pm 5, 6pm TUESDAY JANUARY 16 and Events MONDAY JANUARY 15 • Cyrano (Rostand), National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, FRIDAY JANUARY 19 8:30pm • Final piano concert of Master FRIDAY JANUARY 12 • The Importance of Being Ernest class students, Ilija M. Kolarac (Wilde), National Theatre in • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), • Exhibition: „Portrets“, Studentski Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Exhibition: “Flower as a Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar • A Play About Mirjana and Those Milana 50, 8pm Thought”, Marija Zdravkovic, Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm THURSDAY JANUARY 18 ULUS Gallery, Knez Mihailova 37, Around Her (Martinic), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, WEDNESDAY JANUARY 24 10am SATURDAY JANUARY 20 • Natalija Stosic (violin), Natalija 8pm • Exhibition: “A Story of Two • The Sexual Neuroses of Our Mladenovic (piano), SANU Gallery, Artists”, Gallery Dom Vojske Srbije, Parents (Barfuss), National • Exhibition: “Monographs - Books TUESDAY JANUARY 16 Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm Brace Jugovica 19, 11am of Special Beauty”, Studentski Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • International Voice Competition, • Exhibition: “New Members 8:30pm Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar • Volume Two (Nusic), National Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, of Association of Fine Artist • Hamlet (Shakespeare), Yugoslav Zorana Djindjica 179, 12pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Studentski trg 5, 6pm of Serbia (ULUS) for 2018“, Art Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8:30pm Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzoric, Mali 8pm MONDAY JANUARY 22 • Right You Are, If You Think So Kalemegdan 1, 7pm FRIDAY JANUARY 19 (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama • Exhibition: “Croatia Photos in THURSDAY JANUARY 25 • Sonic Youth lecture, Studentski Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Belgrade Philharmonic the Collection of the Rijeka City Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Museum”, Artget Gallery, Trg • The Folk Play (Dimitrijevic), Orchestra, Cristian Mandeal Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm WEDNESDAY JANUARY 17 Republike 5, 7pm National Theatre in Belgrade, (conductor), Aleksandar • Forum of the Society of Fantasy Francuska 3, 8:30pm • Exhibition: “Favourite Video Latkovic (violoncello), Ilija M. Fans "Lazar Komarcic", Fantasy • Under the Millstone (Nenadic), • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), Works”, Podroom Gallery, Trg Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg and Literature, Dom Omladine, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Republike 5, 7pm 5, 8pm Makedonska 22, 7pm Milana 50, 8pm Milana 50, 8pm

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