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Your guide to the best of the Terres de l’Ebre
Summer 2017
Rooted in history
The ancient craft of olive oil production gets a new twist
Plus • Blue flag beaches • Fantastic fiestas www.ebreconnect.cat • Top tips for city trips Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 1 Contents
Cheers! Salut! 4 Essential contacts: Keep by the phone. 5 News: Blue flag beaches plus Summer’s here and it’s time for sun, sea and sand – and maybe some sangria too. cheaper calls for holidaymakers. You can find all of these in the Terres de l’Ebre and much more. The Terres de l’Ebre 7 Gastronomy: How local farmers are cover the most southerly point of Catalunya and reach from the tip of the Ebro Delta on the creating gourmet olive oils. Mediterranean, right up into the mountains, with the great river Ebro running through their 10 Politics: Catalans call independence centre. There are big towns, isolated villages, expansive beaches and hidden vote for October. coves. The local people are enormously proud of their land, their cuisine and 12 What’s on: Fireworks, medieval their heritage, and our aim is to give you an insight into the best of all of this. celebrations and beach parties Visit our website and social media channels too – we’ve got lots more – the best of this summer’s events. information online. The production of this magazine is only possible thanks 15 Days out: Our top tips for to the support of the local businesses who have trips to Tortosa, Reus and Tarragona. advertised with us. We think that they offer a 19 Outdoor markets: Where to buy food, great range of services, so do take a look and clothes, antiques and books. we hope you find something you like. 22 Fantastic fiestas: Snapshots of the celebrations all year round. Have a great summer! Julie, Sabrina and Jamie The Ebre Connect team
Copyright: Ebre Connect 2017. Ebre Connect www.ebreconnect.cat may not be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher. @ebreconnect Editor: Julie Pybus [email protected] Depósito legal: T 1034-2016
2 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 3 CONTACTS NEWS Essential contacts Cheaper calls with Emergencies ‘roam like at home’ Call 112 for any emergency. Operators can speak English as well as Catalan, Spanish, French and German. If you have a Spanish iTunes or Google Play account, you can download the My112 app which will geolocate your call. Blue f lags f ly
Medical advice If your Spanish or Catalan is reasonable, call 061 for non-urgent across Spain medical advice. There is also an app called 061 CatSalut (available On 15 June, the EU abolished globally) which will geolocate your call, offers a chat service and mobile phone roaming charges. information about your nearest medical centres and pharmacies. Holidaymakers will no longer face potentially huge bills for making calls, Emotional support sending texts and using the internet Contact the Samaritans in Spain via freephone 900 525 100, email outside the area of their mobile [email protected], website samaritansinspain.com. phone contract. Spain has more blue flag beaches than any other country, topping the list for 30 years Launching the initiative, the EU’s Wildlife and the environment running. Across Spain, a total of 579 beaches have been awarded the internationally leaders said: “The European Union is The Agents Rurals protect and care for the environment. They can recognised symbol of meeting strict environmental and safety requirements, including having about bringing people together and help with a variety of incidents including stranded marine animals, life guards on duty and first-rate water quality. Greece is in second place, and France third. In making their lives easier. The end of injured wild animals and removing snakes from homes and gardens. Catalunya there are 95 blue flag beaches including 11 in the Terres de l’Ebre. roaming charges is a true European Call them on 935 617 000. success story.” TERRES DE L’EBRE BLUE FLAG BEACHES However, people who use their L’Ametlla de Mar: Calafató, Sant Jordi d’Alfama, Cala Forn, Pixavaques, L’Alguer. phones more abroad than at home L’Ampolla: Cap Roig, Les Avellanes. may still be charged extra. Check There are more contacts and links Sant Carles de la Ràpita: Parc de Garbí, Les Delícies. your operator’s rules. online at ebreconnect.cat/useful-info Deltebre: Ruimar. Alcanar: Les Cases d’Alcanar-El Marjal.
4 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 5 GASTRONOMY Golden delicious
Farmers in the Terres de l’Ebre are blending old techniques with new ideas to produce gourmet olive oils
Have you ever tried chocolate and olive oil together? At Terra de Burgans, a lush green farm in a valley outside El Perelló, proprietor Maite Pallarès presents visitors with fingernail-sized cups made from dark, bitter chocolate filled with smooth, golden extra virgin olive oil. It tastes sweet, bitter – and breathtakingly good. The olive has been cultivated in Spain for thousands of years. Today, the silvery green trees are all over the country: in the south, delicate saplings are packed together in intensively-farmed irrigated rows, and across Catalunya ancient trees weather the wild winter winds on terraced family fincas. This year, Spain will produce half of the world’s olive oil. Global demand is growing, with new markets emerging in developing countries such as China and Russia. Juliette Cayol of the International Olive Council says that Spain has “great potential”
6 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 7 GASTRONOMY to produce even more olive oil. She adds press. “It’s difficult and hard work,” she says. that cultivation techniques, technology and “But if I didn’t like it I wouldn’t do it.” knowledge are constantly improving. What’s At L’Oli del Mar’s headquarters on the more, increasing numbers of consumers are edge of the town of El Perelló, company keen to buy organic and premium brands. founder Jordi Esparza tells us the science behind creating the best olive oil. His Passion for the product company harvests olives from farms all over In the Terres de l’Ebre, the traditional Baix Ebre – from the sea to the mountains. methods continue, but producers are also It’s all meticulously harvested and trying new approaches. Some are going exhaustively quality-controlled. The oil isn’t organic, and ambitious companies are bottled until a customer orders it. Until then, applying science to produce award-winning it’s carefully conserved in stainless steel high quality oils. tanks in a protected atmosphere. Pa amb tomaquet: Maite, for example, is a woman on a Tasting notes are available for each of L’Oli How to enjoy olive oil mission. She and her 87-year-old father grow del Mar’s single variety oils, some of which like a Catalan fruit and vegetables and they have 3,200 have won awards recently. And that bitter olive trees. This was at the last count – they taste that sometimes hits you at the back of Pa amb tomaquet (bread with are also taking on neglected neighbouring your throat is good – it’s the mark of a fresh tomato) is famous across land and bringing old trees back into oil full of health-giving polyphenols. “This is a Catalunya. Toast some rustic production. As they convert their farm to positive attribute,” Jordi emphasises. bread a little, gently rub a cut organic, Maite is combining her father’s Maite and Jordi are just two of the olive oil glove of garlic on the rough wisdom with innovative approaches. She’s enthusiasts of the Terres de l’Ebre. There are surface of the bread, then studied ley lines and the phases of the moon many more – from the elderly grandparents squidge on half a tomato. To along with the commercial prowess of Italian carefully tending their land as they have finish it off, sprinkle some salt olive oil producers. done for years, to the ambitious youngsters and add a generous drizzle of the Maite is immensely proud of her oil – the who are pursuing new opportunities. best Catalan olive oil. carefully designed bottle labels tell the Tradition combined with innovation may story of the land, she explains, and her next see olive oil remain a Mediterranean staple ambition is to install her very own olive for many more centuries to come.
8 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 9 POLITICS Catalans call independence vote
Catalunya plans to hold a referendum on independence from Spain on Sunday 1 October. The Catalan president, Carles Puigdemont, announced the plan in June. He said: “It is the turn of Catalans to decide their future.” The Spanish government, however, has not given consent for the referendum to take place, arguing that it is unconstitutional. It has stated that all necessary mechanisms will be activated to prevent it happening. Manchester City football club coach, Pep Guardiola, has publicly supported the pro-independence campaign. At a march in Barcelona, he said: “Catalans today are the victims of a state that has launched a political persecution unbefitting a democracy in 21st century Europe. The only possible answer is to vote.”
10 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 11 WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON
July Thursday 20 until Sunday 23 August September Festa del Renaixement, Tortosa This world-famous festival marks Tortosa’s Summer Monday 4 important position during the Renaissance Public holiday in Tortosa only when it was one of the main cities of the Kingdom of Aragon. The town is packed with highlights Monday 11 visitors enjoying medieval cuisine, street La Diada Nacional de Catalunya performances, theatre productions and A public holiday plus celebrations and Our favourite events during much more. Sunday 13 until Tuesday 15 demonstrations across Catalunya to Photo: Luis Sartori do Vale festadelrenaixement.org July, August and September. Photo: Albert Torelló, Creative Commons Licence Festes de Santa Llúcia, El Perelló mark Catalunya’s national day which Festivities on the beach including DJs, a foam Go along and get involved! Monday 10 until Sunday 23 Friday 4 until Sunday 6 commemorates the defeat of Catalan party and dancing. On Tuesday evening Festival Deltebre Dansa Festes Majors d’Estiu, Miravet troops in 1714. there will be a “musclada popular” – mussels Deltebre turns into an international hub for Miravet is a beautiful town, renowned for are cooked in cauldrons then distributed the performing arts for two weeks in July. its pottery, set on the banks of the Ebro and Friday 15 to Sunday 24 in huge platefuls – followed by fireworks. There are workshops for professional and dominated by a Templar castle. The start of Santa Tecla festival, Tarragona Tickets from the El Perelló tourist office. amateur dancers plus performances which August sees the town celebrate its summer Ten days of celebrations across the city are open to the public and cost 5 euros each. festival in honour of Sant Domenec, the elperelloturisme.com/festes-a-perello-mar – music, dancing, parades, fireworks and deltebredansa.cat patron saint of potters. human towers competitions. turismemiravet.cat Tuesday 15 tarragonaturisme.cat/en/events/ Saturday 29 L’Assumpció public holiday Thursday 13 until Sunday 16 santa-tecla Festa Jove, El Perelló Festes de la Verge del Carme, L’Ampolla Friday 4 until Thursday 10 A crazy night of correfocs (firerunning), Saturday 19 The seaside town of L’Ampolla celebrates its Festes Majors, Rasquera Friday 22 to Sunday 24 Details are sometimes only foam and dancing – great for teenagers, not Roman Shopping Night, El Perelló fishermen with festivities that peak on the Rasquera’s summer festival includes one Delta Birding Festival publicised shortly before an so good for toddlers. Don’t wear your best The local traders dress up as Romans and evening of 16 July when there is a procession of the wildest correfocs (firerunning) Ornithologists from around the world flock event takes place. Check with clothes. From 10pm. put stalls in the street. Enjoy shopping in the of boats followed by fireworks over the sea. performances in the area. to the Ebro Delta for this festival, featuring the relevant tourist office and elperelloturisme.com/festa-jove cool of the evening. From 8pm. Book a table at a harbourside restaurant, rasquera.altanet.org workshops, an exhibition and excursions. the Ebre Connect website for the take a picnic to the beach or find a place to deltabirdingfestival.com most up to date information stand on the seafront to enjoy the spectacle. ampolla.org
12 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 13 WHERE TO GO
As you drive towards Tortosa from the south, you can see the town from a long way off sitting at the foot of the mountains of Els Ports. The road runs alongside the river Ebro, following the ancient trading route that made Tortosa a powerful city for centuries. It’s an impressive sight from a distance, but as you get nearer the trading estates close in. Persevere because, although today the city’s influence is diminished, it’s still worth a visit.
EBRE CONNECT RECOMMENDS
Admire the views from La Suda The castle of La Suda is at the peak of the old town and it provides a fine viewpoint over the city’s rooftops, along the Ebro and towards the mountains. The castle was a fortress for the Romans, a royal residence in the Middle Ages and now it’s a parador – a hotel. Take note too of the Francoist monument which you can see spiking out of the river with an eagle taking flight from its base. Recently, Tortosa has been debating whether to remove the monument or keep it – Days out for now, it remains a reminder of the bloody Battle of the Ebro. Tortosa Take the Vía Verde The Vías Verdes are disused railway lines converted into routes for cyclists and walkers across Spain. The Baix Ebre stretch runs from Tortosa up towards Pinell de Brai. They’re flat and wide and perfect for people of all abilities to explore. It’s easier to set off from Pinell and take the gentle downhill route to Tortosa through dark tunnels, over high viaducts and with fantastic mountain views. viasverdes.com
tortosaturisme.cat
14 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 15 WHERE TO GO WHERE TO GO
There’s much more to Reus than an airport. The centre of the city Tarragona has got it all: a beautiful old town, Roman ruins is packed with beautiful architecture, cool bars and great shops. and beaches too. Explore the narrow old streets around the It’s also the birthplace of the famous Catalan architect Antoni cathedral which echo to the music of the conservatoire students Gaudí. It’s a small city which makes it perfect for a day out – practising. Escape from the heat in one of the restaurants make sure that you give yourself enough time to go shopping, built into the city walls. And if you’re tired of the hustle and have an aperitif and then a leisurely lunch. Just watch out for bustle, you can take a break on one of the golden beaches. the pesky pigeons eyeing up your croissant in the main square. EBRE CONNECT RECOMMENDS EBRE CONNECT RECOMMENDS Hold your breath watching the human towers Drink vermouth Castells – or human towers – are a tradition of Catalunya. Teams of Reus calls itself the world capital of vermouth (vermut): at the end castellers compete in breathtaking competitions culminating in the of the 19th century the city had more than 30 factories dedicated to smallest team member, usually a tiny girl, shimmying up the bodies producing the drink. Today, there are fewer producers, but the ritual of her teammates to the top. Tarragona calls itself ‘the city of human
of taking it as a pre-lunchtime tipple lives on. The Museu del Vermut towers’ and visitors can watch the local teams rehearsing as well as Photo: Carme Ribes Moreno, Creative Commons Licence is a beautiful bar and restaurant packed with vermouth memorabilia several competitions throughout the summer. The biggest event is where you can sit with a red vermouth on ice, with an olive and a the Santa Tecla festival from 15 to 24 September (see page 12). splash of sifón (soda water). tarragonaturisme.cat/en/tarragona-city-human-towers Days out museudelvermut.com Days out Envisage the drama of a Roman amphitheatre Reus Combine shopping with architectural admiration Tarragona’s Roman ruins are impressive. If you walk around the old Tarragona Arrive in the cool of the morning and stroll around the pedestrian- town you’re surrounded by chunks of wall, arches and columns. The only shopping centre off the main square (Plaça Mercadal). amphitheatre stands on the edge of the sea – take a walk around The shops are lovely, but don’t forget to look up to admire it and imagine the executions of terrified prisoners, fights between the curves and swirls of the city’s art nouveau buildings. crazed wild beasts and daring gladiators, and the martyrdom of Saint Fructousus – all with the splended backdrop of the blue reusturisme.cat Mediterranean sea. tarragonaturisme.cat/en/route-point/amphitheatre
tortosaturisme.cat
16 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 17 WHAT’S ON Street markets
L’Ametlla Monday and Thursday mornings, clothes and accessories, Plaça del Mercat. Saturday mornings, fruit and vegetables, Plaça del Mercat.
L’Ampolla Wednesday mornings, general market, Carrer Vista Alegre. Saturday evenings (6.30pm-10pm), arts and crafts, Carrer Rall. Sunday 30 July and Sunday 20 August, antiques market, harbour. Saturday mornings, fruit and vegetables, Plaça Mercat.
El Perelló Saturday mornings, general market including local artisans in the summer, around Plaça de Jaume II. Saturday 8 July, Saturday 12 August and Saturday 9 September, Freesia English-language bookstall, Plaça Co-operativa.
Amposta Tuesday mornings, general market, around Mercat Municipal.
Riumar Saturday evenings (5pm-8pm), general market, Urbanització Riumar.
Check out the ‘what’s on’ section of ebreconnect.cat for more
18 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 19 The best defence is a good lawyer.
dp advocats
LEGAL ADVICE AND LITIGATION
AV. Barcelona 67 Ed. Marfil - local 1 Acces by C/ Tortosa, nº 6, 43892 · MIAMI PLATJA - Tarragona Office: (0034) 977 17 29 39 // FAX: (0034) 977 17 29 40 [email protected] // www.dpadvocats.com
20 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 Ebre Connect, Summer 2017 21 WHAT’S ON
WHAT’S ON Fantastic f iestas
The celebrations never stop in the Terres de l’Ebre. Here are some snapshots of what else goes on outside the summer season.
Tres Tombs, L’Ampolla, spring Firabril, honey and oil fair, El Perelló, April
Catifes de Corpus, various Caga Tió, Christmas, across locations, feast of Corpus Christi Catalunya
See the latest events on ebreconnect.cat all year round
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