Yellowstone Science A quarterly publication devoted to the natural and cultural resources

Never Running From a Fight: A Finley Retrospective Bear Predation on Bison Savage Christmas

Volume 9 Number 3 The Nature of Change

The familiar adage that the only con- Schullery, as founding editor from 1991 With these words I felt as if Paul was stant in nature is change is also true of the to 1996, and Sue, from 1996 to 2001, describing my feelings, too, along with human institutions charged with preserv- have each established a standard of ex- all those who have found themselves pas- ing nature. As this issue of Yellowstone cellence during their respective tenures sionate about this place. Science goes to press we are in the midst in this office that I will endeavor to up- In the very first issue of Yellowstone of great change, indeed. A new presiden- hold. Science, Paul wrote of helping the public tial administration and Secretary of the I bring to the position 16 years of “to celebrate, through the eyes and ears Interior now direct the future course of experience with the National Park Ser- and voices of the researchers themselves, our public lands. At the same time, after vice in interpretation and resource man- the knowledge and wonder they so often a distinguished 32-year career with the agement, 12 of which have been in Yel- find in this amazing place.” In Sue’s first National Park Service, Superintendent lowstone. As a young seasonal ranger at issue as editor, she wrote of sharing our Michael Finley has retired. We will miss Sequoia National Park, I learned from curiosity, enthusiasm, and inquisitive- his vigilance and his dedication to the then Superintendent Boyd Evison that ness for the natural world. In this tradi- protection of Yellowstone’s resources. good management decisions cannot be tion, I reaffirm the commitment of Yel- Some of his final thoughts and reflections made in national parks without good re- lowstone Science to providing the best from a parting interview are included in search. When I arrived in Yellowstone in information available on the park’s natu- this issue. We wish him well in his work 1984, I read Paul Schullery’s Mountain ral and cultural resources, and a bit of the on global social and environmental issues Time. In it, he observed, “Had Yellow- wonder, to our fellow stewards of Yel- as president of the Turner Foundation. stone, a hundred years old and thriving, lowstone in the park, in the scientific Finally, the position of editor of this been a person—a grand old lady, to fol- community, and to the public at large. I journal has also changed hands. Sue low the prevailing cliché—she would welcome any input you may have on how Consolo-Murphy has moved on to em- have been amused at this young ranger to make it the best publication it can be. brace new challenges as the Branch Chief with his sudden commitment to defend Each day spent in Wonderland reveals of Cultural Resources for the Yellow- her honor. And, because at a hundred that now, just as then, there is still so stone Center for Resources. I have ac- years of age she had seen many young much to learn. cepted this job with the utmost respect for men transformed by her charms, she could those who have preceded me. Paul have told me that I had a lot to learn.” RJA Yellowstone Science A quarterly publication devoted to the natural and cultural resources

Volume 9 Number 3 Summer 2001 Table of Contents

Savage Christmas: “...the best of times” 2 Christmas in August? This Yellowstone tradition, whatever its origins, brings joy to employees and visitors alike. by Leslie J. Quinn

Yellowstone Nature Notes: Bear Predation on Bison 6 Two rare sightings of bear attacks on bison. by Nathan Varley and Travis Wyman

Never Running From a Fight: Mike Finley Looks 9 Back on His Park Service Career In June, Mike Finley left Yellowstone after more than six years as superintendent. Before going, he shared some thoughts on his 32 years with the Park Service. Interview with Mike Finley Editors Roger J. Anderson News and Notes 20 Sue Consolo-Murphy The Dot Island Bear ¥ Bison Symposium ¥ Publications Available ¥ Yellowstone Volcano Observatory Established ¥ Parks Prepare SEIS for Winter Use ¥ NPS Assistant Editors and Design Launches Review of Benefits-Sharing Agreements ¥ Register for the Sixth Tami Blackford Biennial Scientific Conference on the GYE Mary Ann Franke Kevin Schneider Alice Wondrak

Printing Artcraft, Inc. Bozeman, Montana Yellowstone Science is published quarterly, and submissions are welcome from all investigators conducting formal research in the Yellowstone area. Correspondence should be sent to the On the cover: Superintendent Finley at Editor, Yellowstone Science, Yellowstone Center for Resources, his desk, February 1997. P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. The opinions expressed in Yellowstone Science are the authors' and may not reflect Inside cover: The Continental Divide, either National Park Service policy or the views of the Yellowstone Center for July 1902. Could a storm at Old Resources. Copyright © 2001, the Yellowstone Association for Natural Science, Faithful have stranded stagecoaches, History & Education. Support for Yellowstone Science is provided by the Yellow- beginning Christmas in August? stone Association, a non-profit educational organization dedicated to serving the park and its visitors. For more information about the association, including membership, Above: Superintendent Finley making or to donate to the production of Yellowstone Science, write to wishes for Yellowstone’s future, 2000. Yellowstone Association, P.O. Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. NPS photos. Yellowstone Science is printed on recycled paper with a linseed oil-based ink. Savage Christmas “…the best of times” by Leslie J. Quinn

The nature of Yellowstone’s seasonal operation dictates that most employees, irrespective of the quality of their experi- ence working here, will ultimately head elsewhere in search of career, family, and The back of this photo reads: “Walt — O.F. mechanic at this time. Christ- fortune. Often, for the rest of their lives, mas in July?” NPS photo archives, 1954. some chance lighting, sound, or smell may take them traveling back in time to a summer of bears, geysers, and lasting that one August 24 found a freak bliz- before. (The tale is rarely related using the friendships made in Yellowstone National zard descending upon the Old Faithful park’s touring cars or visitors’ private Park. For many of these former employ- area. Visitors at the Old Faithful Inn, automobiles.) In yet another rendition, it ees, part of their Yellowstone experience marooned by snows too heavy for their was a wagon train that was imperiled by included “Savage Christmas,” currently stagecoaches to brave, marveled at the the storm, in which case the decision to celebrated by the “savages” (as Yellow- weird weather and decided to make the celebrate Christmas was at least a better stone concessioner employees are histori- best of their predicament by celebrating one than that adopted by the Donner party cally known) on August 25. While also rather than lamenting the inclemency. under similar circumstances.1 celebrated as National Parks Day (the The winter-like aspect brought on by the This historical confusion notwithstand- date the National Park Service was cre- snow gave someone the idea that it looked ing, the tradition of Savage Christmas has ated), in Yellowstone it is a day on which like Christmas time, and the celebration become firmly entrenched. Each year as you can find Christmas trees trimmed in became one of caroling, stringing pop- the festivities of August 25 approach, the hotel lobbies, Christmas dinner served corn, and toasting a Merry Christmas to flyers are distributed at hotels around the in the concessioner employee dining one’s fellow travelers. The savages, park relating the quaint and charming rooms, and Christmas services celebrated many of whom returned to Yellowstone tale. However, the historical record, while around the park. in successive summers but were far from somewhat scant on the subject, does not But where did Savage Christmas come one another at Yuletide, were inspired support the occurrence of such an event. from? How did it come to be celebrated on by this impromptu revelry, and so the Furthermore, a number of accounts from August 25? These questions sent me to tradition of Savage Christmas was born former employees provide evidence that the Yellowstone Park Archives to peruse and celebrated in subsequent years up to Savage Christmas was not celebrated at what information might be found there. the present. various points in the past. These accounts While the information is by no means There are variations on the standard generally suggest that the celebration was voluminous, I was to find, ultimately, that tale, most concerning the year in which not taking place in the 1930s, or that it was (with all apologies to Mr. Dickens) Sav- the first Savage Christmas took place. at most just getting off the ground at that age Christmas is a tale of the worst of Some versions push it back into the late time.2 One long-term concession man- times and the best of times. nineteenth century, which would have ager claimed that the story was made up to our resourceful visitors enduring the rig- conceal the actual origin of the holiday, as According to Legend ors of the blizzard in the lobby of an Old I’ll explain later. Faithful Inn that did not exist until 1904. Of course, one cannot say that the snow- At first, the task seemed an easy one, as Other versions place it later in the twen- storm stranding did not occur merely be- all savages think they know how Savage tieth century, which would have them cause there are no records that it did Christmas began. As the legend goes, it dependent on a stagecoach that had been occur. But when trying to piece together was shortly after the turn of the century retired from the Yellowstone scene years historical events, even suppositions must

2 Yellowstone Science be based upon the evidence at hand—if, single event in August was enough to the official Park song and for many indeed, enough evidence exists to sup- stop the touring cars. years during the 1920s and 30s led port any suppositions or conclusions at the bands and orchestras in the Park, all. And based on the evidence, I think it What the Record Shows says that the custom was unknown unlikely that the snowstorm stranding during his time as a “savage.” ever took place. So how did Savage Christmas come Quaw states that there was a about? Based on the information avail- “Christmas in July” tradition which “Oh, the Weather Outside is able, it seems to have evolved largely as was more or less standard through Frightful…” a consequence of three unrelated influ- the northern Rockies, but never ences: a “Christmas in July” tradition that reached any great proportions in Yel- Weather records have been kept in was observed in Yellowstone and possi- lowstone. Yellowstone Park since the 1880s, and bly elsewhere in the Rockies; a celebra- In my day as a “savage,” during the details concerning which days of each tion called Savage Days that took place at late ‘30s, it was a fun-time for us year had snowfall and how much was Old Faithful and probably elsewhere in during which we picked one of our present on the ground were kept begin- the park; and the launching of A Christian number to dress as Santa Claus, the ning in 1904, the year Old Faithful Inn Ministry in the National Parks. girls chipped in to make ornaments opened. The readings were taken at Mam- Irrespective of the month of its obser- and trimmings, we had Christmas moth Hot Springs, which is a thousand vance, the tradition of a summer Christ- parties in cabins and, above all, it was feet lower and will usually receive less mas in Yellowstone appears to date from a chance to get a real feast, welcome snowfall in any given storm than will Old the 1930s. Gerry Pesman, who sand- change from the daily “savage” fare Faithful. Nonetheless, the records can wiched a career as an engineer inside two we ate in the “Zoo,” as the employ- give us an impression of August weather as a park bus driver/tour guide, reported ees’ cafeteria was dubbed. in the first part of the twentieth century. that he heard nothing of a summer Christ- It was a chance to cement the ties of Between 1887 and 1903, records show mas celebration during his first stint here friendship that had begun during our the total August snowfall for each year as (1926 to 1940), but it was in full swing summer’s employment…to show that well as the total August days with snow during his second (1967 to 1975).4 Of “special” girl that she was the on the ground as zero. Beginning in 1904 course, if the celebration was just getting “heaver” of your heart…and share and through 1941, less that 0.1 inches of started in the 1930s, Gerry may not have the warmth of Christmas with friends snow fell on the following dates: August heard of it because it was still small. from whom you would be long-sepa- 10, 1907; August 30 and 31, 1908; Au- This possibility is supported by two rated on December 25.5 gust 24, 1910; and August 25 and 26, other sources. In the August 25, 1966, 1933. The only August snow depth of issue of The Yellowstone Cub, a newspa- As the parties that Sicard describes tak- more than a trace during that period was per distributed by the park’s Recreation ing place in the late 1930s were held in recorded on August 30, 1932, when 1.8 Department, was an article titled “Christ- employee cabins, the public at large may inches of snow fell.3 mas Comes Twice a Year—Once At have been unaware of them. This theory From these scant facts alone, it seems Home and Once Up Here.” After relating is supported by a 1977 letter written by that no snow fell during the stagecoach the snowstorm tale, former savage Delmar late park historian Aubrey L. Haines in era that would have snowbound anyone St. J. Sicard, III, pointed out: response to an inquiry about Savage anywhere in the park in August. While Christmas: the wheels of a stagecoach have no tread, The authenticity of the story may neither do they provide traction: the be doubted. Gene Quaw of Bozeman, I have checked my notes for refer- hooves of the horses drive the vehicle. A “Mr. Yellowstone Music,” who wrote ences to the Yellowstone employee few inches of snow (about the most Old Faithful would get when Mammoth gets a trace) would not have bothered the horses, and would have overjoyed the passengers; the chief complaint of stage- coach travel was dust. Could the 1.8 inches of snow in Mam- moth on August 30, 1932, have been enough at Old Faithful to have stopped the fleet of touring cars? Perhaps. But no report of this occurrence has surfaced either. The gearjammers who drove the cars did so through snow of occasionally considerable depths in the early and late A parade held by Yellowstone Park Co. Transportation employees—greenery part of each season. It is unlikely that a adorns the flat bed truck float. NPS photo archives, 1954.

Summer 2001 3 “Christmas” celebrations, but can find Because service to the guests comes ably inspired a bit in their decision by a only one reference—a note from Jack first and because we were subject to knowledge of the small Christmas in July Haynes in 1947, “O. F. Savages held severe criticism after the “Savage celebrations that had already been occur- annual celebration, 7/25.” Day” performance of last year, such a ring for some years. And it was wisdom I checked the Superintendent’s An- performance must not happen again. to realize that altering the celebration nual Reports, but no result; would If the employees want to have a rather than just stopping it was a more suggest you look into the Super- parade during the afternoon, between likely road to success. The last known intendent’s Monthly Report file (start three and five P.M., and a dance at reference to Savage Days is for 1953; the with July, 1947) for months of July night, provided it does not interfer first mention in the Yellowstone Weekly following WWII… (sic) with service to the guests, it will News of Savage Christmas is in 1955. The “Christmas” being just em- be all right. ployee fun didn’t get much official Costumes must not be worn during Hallelujahs in August notice. I think it goes away back the time an employee is on duty and before the War, as I seem to remem- employees must wear their regular But how did Savage Days and Christ- ber it the summer of 1939 when I was daily uniform. mas in July become Savage Christmas in assistant DR [District Ranger] at Old Nothing should be said to the guests August? Once Savage Days came to an Faithful; but we didn’t pay much regarding tips nor in any way should end, there was apparently an interest in attention so long as they stayed out of the guests be solicited by the use of changing the annual celebration from trouble.6 kitties, signs, or other devices.7 July 25 to August 25. For the first few years, the Weekly News indicates some Savage Days—and Nights Other references indicate that Savage employee parties took place on July 25 Days continued as an annual event until at and others on August 25. But by 1959, The fact that Haines suggests checking least 1953, but the date seems to have the August 25 date had won out, and the Superintendent’s Monthly Reports been flexible, occurring from late July to Savage Christmas has remained on that for July, not August, provides further early August.8 By then, according to the date ever since.10 evidence of the role that the “Christmas late Trevor Povah of Hamilton Stores, A likely explanation for the change is in July” tradition played in the evolution Inc., the festival (and its problems) ap- that Yellowstone’s visitor season was of the current Savage Christmas. But also pears to have become more parkwide, still basically from June through August significant is his reference to Jack Haynes’ and Superintendent E. B. Rogers finally in the 1950s. By moving the holiday to note about an “annual celebration” on asked the managers of the three main August 25, it could also serve as an “end July 25, 1947. The celebration in ques- concessions operations (Yellowstone Park of the season” celebration, a fine time for tion may not have been Christmas-re- Co., Hamilton General Stores, and Haynes exchanging presents and wishing good lated. According to the August 1, 1947, Picture Shops) to put a stop to it. Mr. cheer to friends new and old. But another issue of Yellowstone’s Weekly News: Povah said that he, Jack Haynes, and organization created in Yellowstone in Huntley Child, Jr., created the Savage the 1950s may have also contributed to The “savages” (concessionaire em- Christmas celebration as a replacement the interest in delaying the event. ployees) at Old Faithful held a gala for Savage Days. Mr. Povah also sug- At a program presented on August 7, affair on July 25 known as “Savage gested that the story of stagecoaches snow- 1949, the Old Faithful Choral Society Day.” Several floats were entered in bound at Old Faithful was created at that was conducted by Warren W. Ost, a the long parade up the main street at time so as to tell visitors something better bellman at Old Faithful Inn and divinity Old Faithful. The day concluded with than the truth as to how the celebration student at Princeton.11 Ost saw a need for a large masquerade ball in the evening. came about.9 a ministry for the National Parks in the The concessions managers were prob- summer, a time of year when divinity As with Savage Christmas, the exact origin of Savage Days is lost to antiquity, but its character might be described as the best of times for the employees but the worst of times for park managers and, as such, contributed to the need for some- thing to replace it. The earliest reference to Savage Days in the archives appears in a July 18 letter from Yellowstone Park Company President Huntley Child, Jr., to The “Upper Hamilton the managers of Old Faithful Lodge, Old Store Queen” float in a Faithful Cafeteria (a separate structure Savage Days celebra- then), and Old Faithful Tourist Cabins tion. NPS photo (later to become the Snow Lodge): archives, 1949.

4 Yellowstone Science students would be available to serve. He tradition of “Savage Day” in July was returned to Yellowstone in 1950 with replaced by a “Savage Christmas” in July Notes: fellow student Donald Bower and (based on an existing Christmas in July 1 The author has heard many of these varia- launched a “student ministry” that even- tradition), which was soon replaced by a tions related around the park during his tually became A Christian Ministry in the Savage Christmas in August. It does seem tenure here. The suggestion of a wagon National Parks, of which Ost was the relatively certain that the incident of visi- train appears in a letter dated 11/21/1977 12 from Linda J. Miller, secretary to the chief first director. Whatever other effects the tors snowed in at Old Faithful never oc- park naturalist, to a Ms. Billie Whelchel divinity students may have had on Yel- curred, and that Savage Christmas owes Turnbull of Portland, Oregon. Yellow- lowstone, Delmar J. Sicard, III, linked much of its beginnings to the outrageous stone National Park Archives (hereafter their presence with his observation that antics practiced by those celebrating Sav- YNPA) Box H-27, File H-14, “Area and Services History.” the Christmas in July celebration “began age Days, with a little nudge from the 2 Letter from Aubrey L. Haines to a Miss to take on a more serious and formal Christian Ministry as well. Miller (probably the Linda J. Miller of the aspect” in the early 1950s. But what’s really important here? For previous footnote), dated 11/11/1977, By 1951, choral groups at Mammoth, all the sad commercialization that is a YNPA Box H-27, File H-14, “Area and Services History”; Gerard Pesman, pers. Old Faithful, Canyon, and Lake were part of the Christmas celebration at the comm. to Lee H. Whittlesey; Delmar St. J. “working up the Messiah,” according to turn of the twenty-first century, many Sicard, III, “Christmas Comes Twice A the Weekly News. ”Plans have now been people still consider it one of the best Year—Once At Home And Once Up completed for the presentation of this days of the year, whatever their religious Here,” The Yellowstone Cub, August 25, 1966, YNPA Box YPC-135. program in the Yellowstone Park Chapel faith. We may hang ornaments, string 3 United States Department of Agriculture, on Friday, August 17…”13 This perfor- popcorn, and wrap gifts, but hopefully Weather Bureau, Climatological Record mance of Handel’s Messiah was to be- somewhere along the way we also feel for Yellowstone Park, Wyo., 1887Ð1941 come an annual event, taking place each humbled and inspired to try to be better (United States Department of Agricul- ture, no date, no place). August until the late 1980s or early 1990s. people than we are. If Christmas days can 4 Gerard Pesman to Lee Whittlesey, pers. If the celebration of Christmas in July had do this for us, then we need more of them comm. still been going strong in the early 1950s than we have now anyway. And in Yel- 5 Sicard, op. cit. 6 when the Messiah tradition began, it lowstone Park, we’re at least that much Haines to Miller, op. cit. 7 Letter, Child to Managers, YNPA Box C- would have been logical to have the Mes- ahead of the game, as we celebrate Christ- 33, File #900 “Y. P. Co.” Part 7. siah performance coincide with it. But mas twice as often as in most places. So, 8 Yellowstone’s Weekly News, Volume 1 #5 with only a short season in which to every August 25, have a merry Savage (August 1, 1947), Volume 2 #30 (July 29, prepare, an August date for the concert Christmas—surely, the best of times. 1948), Volume 4 #30 (July 27, 1950), Yellowstone National Park Library (here- would have been more reasonable, and after YNPL); letter, Richard F. Smith to E. this may have been a factor in the July-to- B. Rogers, July 17, 1950, YNPA Box C- August switch. At a time when the re- 32, File 900 General, “Public Utility Op- strictions against employees having pri- erators,” Part 5; letter, concessions man- agers to Old Faithful area employees, July vate automobiles in the park were just 27, 1953, YNPA Box C-58, File 900-04 starting to be lifted, choir practice would “Public Utility Operators’ Hours of Labor have provided a wholesome way to spend and Wage of Employees.” 9 many a summer evening and encourage Trevor Povah to Leslie J. Quinn, pers. comm. Mr. Povah made no claim to have camaraderie with one’s fellow employ- created the stagecoach story himself, ees. As the culmination of much hard merely that it was created around that time work, a presentation of the Messiah would for the purpose. 10 have coincided with a celebration of the Yellowstone’s Weekly News, Volume 9 #35 (September 1, 1955), Volume 10 #30 holiday of Christmas, with gifts to be (July 26, 1956), Volume 10 #35 (August given just before packing up for the re- 30, 1956), Volume 12 #29 (July 17, 1958), turn to home or school. While the park’s Volume 12 #30 (July 24, 1958), Volume season has extended and interest in pre- 12 #34 (August 21, 1958), Volume 13 #33 (August 20, 1959), YNPL; Loopvine, Tues- senting the Messiah has waned, the Sav- day, July 31, Volume 12 #34 (August 21, age Christmas survives and is celebrated 1958), Volume 13 #33 (August 20, 1959),

Photo courtesy Leslie Quinn. each year. YNPL; Loopvine, Tuesday, July 31, 1962, Leslie J. Quinn holds a B.S. and M.Ed. YNPA Box YPC-118. 11 Yellowstone’s Weekly News, Volume 3 A Christmas on Any Other Date Would from the University of Massachusetts at #32 (August 4, 1949), YNPL. be as Merry Amherst. He is the Information Specialist 12 Program entitled A Christmas Candle- for Amfac Parks & Resorts in Yellow- lighting Service, December 24, 1987, So it appears that most of what can be stone National Park, and editor of their YNPA Box C-18; Aubrey L. Haines, A History of the Mammoth Chapel, p. 25. offered here is a little historical fact and in-house publication, the Commentary 13 Yellowstone’s Weekly News, Volume 4 some quasi-intelligent speculation to go Newsletter. #31 (August 2, 1951), YNPL. with it. The evidence suggests that a

Summer 2001 5 Grizzly Bear Predation on a Bison Calf

by Nathan Varley

I observed the event through a 40x spotting scope while Bob Landis filmed and Joel Sartore took still photographs. The film footage allowed repeated review, enabling us to clearly describe the incident, which was observed from a vehicle pullout along the Grand Loop Road in Hayden Valley at approximately 7:30 A.M. on June 26, 2000. An adult female grizzly bear accompanied by two cubs-of-the-year was foraging approximately 2.5 km away, on a southwest-facing slope on the northeast side of the Yellowstone River. The sow was picking around in the sagebrush, foraging on roots and possibly searching for a late elk calf, as there were several elk scattered along the treeline beyond the bears. As the three bears moved downslope toward the river, a cow bison and her calf walked southeast along a bench on its northeast side. No other bison were visible in the area. When the cow and calf approached the base of the slope on which the bears were foraging, they began to trot, the cow in the lead, in what appeared to be an attempt to quickly skirt past and below the bears. The adult grizzly, approximately 200 meters upslope from the bison, stood up on her hind legs and looked at the cow and calf. Those of us gathered in the pullout briefly discussed the possibility of the bear pursuing these bison, but didn’t give it much likelihood. Nevertheless, we were thinking about climbing a nearby hill in order to gain a better vantage when the sow made an unexpected decision. She dropped down to all four legs and ran down the slope in pursuit of the bison, leaving her cubs behind. At this point, the cow changed position and ran behind her calf, keeping herself between it and the bear. In a matter of seconds, the bear had closed the gap and was within a few meters of the fleeing cow and calf. The chase proceeded west toward the riverbank and reached a swale approximately 1 km from the observers. High sage and this low spot partially obscured our view of what happened at that point. As the bear started to pass the cow, the cow changed direction as if to cut the bear off and confront her. But the bear veered past the cow and continued after the calf. When the three animals emerged from the swale, the calf was running out in front, followed by the bear and then the cow. As the bear drew near the calf, the calf turned and ran in tighter and tighter circles. The chase moved back into the swale again, obscuring the view. It appeared that the bear reached out and swatted the calf down

6 Yellowstone Science with its paw. It then made contact again slope approximately 300 meters to the elk calves. Although predation on elk and appeared to bite the calf before jump- east and far up slope from the kill site. calves in Yellowstone by both grizzly ing out of the way of the charging cow, The cubs often stood up and looked bears and black bears has been well docu- which lowered its head and appeared to around. The adult bear then moved di- mented, we are not aware of any records hook at the bear with its horns. rectly east up slope to her cubs, and led in the literature of bear predation on bison The bear reappeared from the swale, them up a long draw and into a forested calves. Given the frequency that park holding the calf in its mouth with the cow area and out of sight. The adult female employees and visitors observe grizzly chasing it. It stopped, dropped the calf, grizzly bear and two cubs returned to the bear predation on elk calves, we believe and stood its ground over the calf while carcass at approximately 7:45 P.M., un- that predation on bison calves is an infre- facing the cow. Momentarily, the cow covered it, and fed on it at least until 9:30 quent, opportunistic event or it would be stopped pursuing it. It remained 20Ð30 P.M., when it became too dark to see. reported more frequently. meters away, circling and occasionally Most bison calves in YNP are born in rushing in and hooking its horns at the early May, and calving is generally over Nathan Varley has lived in Yellowstone bear, but always quickly retreated when by the end of that month, although a few Park for more than 20 years. In 1994, he the bear did not run. After the cow stopped calves are born as late as September. earned a M.S. in Fish and Wildlife Man- charging, the bear began to consume the Based on horn size, body size, and col- agement at Montana State University, calf. The cow stayed nearby and occa- oration, retired Yellowstone biologist studying mountain goat ecology in the sionally nibbled grass. After the bear had Mary Meagher estimated that the bison Absaroka Range. Since then he has been feeding on the calf for approxi- calf was seven to eight weeks old. worked with a variety of wildlife species mately 15 minutes, the cow abruptly ran Ungulate meat is one of the most con- including wolves, moose, and otters. More north and did not return. centrated sources of digestible energy recently, he has been instrumental in the The bear fed on the calf for about 30 and protein available to grizzly bears in creation of a biological consulting com- minutes, then spent approximately 10 min- the Yellowstone ecosystem. Grizzly bears pany which specializes in ecological re- utes covering the carcass with dirt, grass, obtain ungulate meat primarily through search, filming, and interpretive enter- and branches it broke from sagebrush. By scavenging winter-killed and wolf-killed prises in Yellowstone. this time, her cubs had moved across the elk and bison carrion and predation on

Grizzly Bear Attacks Bull Bison

by Travis Wyman

On September 23, 2000, I responded to ing a number of park visitors due to road would probably result. At around 1:00 a common call of a grizzly bear and her closures and poor traveling conditions. P.M., the bears showed up at Fishing Bridge two cubs-of-the-year in front of the Lake Therefore, it was an unusually large group Junction. We blocked traffic and allowed Lodge. The bears were digging for pocket of people for the time of year that gath- them to cross the road safely. gophers and grazing vegetation in the ered to watch the bears grub and dig Once across the road, the sow walked meadow adjacent to this facility. Several while waiting for road closures to lift and into an area where a young adult bull different bears use this meadow along the conditions to improve. I monitored the bison was laying under a tree. The bison lake shore, not only for its concentration bears for several hours, interpreting them stood up abruptly, which startled the bears. of high quality bear foods (i.e., local for visitors and watching to make sure The sow then stood up on her hind legs, cutthroat trout spawning streams, vegeta- that both bears and people were kept safe. and the cubs followed her example. The tion communities, elk calf populations), Around noon, the bears began to fol- bison assumed an alerted posture, with but also because an old road bed extends low the old road toward the Fishing Bridge his tail raised and his head lowered, and from this part of the Lake area to the area to the east. As this is a regular pattern stood his ground approximately 15 feet Yellowstone River 1.5 miles away, serv- for bears frequenting the area, I realized away from her. The bear lunged forward ing as a convenient travel corridor be- that they would most likely reach the as if in a bluff charge, probably in defense tween the two locations. These particular main road between the Lake Village and of her cubs. This convinced the bison to bears had frequented the area all season. Fishing Bridge Junction sometime in the turn and start trotting away, along a bench A large, wet snow of about six inches next hour or so, and asked several rang- directly above the road to Fishing Bridge. had fallen the previous evening, strand- ers to assist with the bear jam which The sow engaged in a slow chase, appear-

Summer 2001 7 ing more curious than anything The next morning, the sow else, while I followed them and her two cubs returned to down the road and watched the area where the attack had from below the skyline of the occurred. The bear behaved ag- bench. gressively toward several visi- After about 50 yards, the bi- tors who were trying to get son began running at full speed, pictures close to the attack site. and the bear gave chase. At the I was called out again to man- crest of the hill above the Yel- age the bears and keep visitors lowstone River, the bear swiped away. The sow behaved in an its right paw across the bison’s agitated and aggressive man- Unfortunately, Travis only had a disposable hindquarters, kicking its back ner as it investigated the site panoramic camera available. Although of legs out from under it. The bi- where the bison once was, prob- poor quality, this photo depicts the adult son, now inverted and com- ably because traces of blood grizzly attacking the adult bison. NPS photo. pletely off the ground, struck a were still present from the dis- tree with its front quarters and patching activities the evening slid down a social trail toward the before. Personnel agreed that the bridge boardwalk. Meanwhile, the fell backward into a ditch adjacent to the bear danger was too high for fur- sow leapt onto the underside of the boardwalk. The ditch provided the bison ther activity of this nature to con- bison and skidded down the hill on with a position of advantage from which tinue, and the bear was run off top of it while attempting to bite at it could fend off the bear with its horns with aversive conditioning mea- its neck. during subsequent attacks, and the bison sures. When they came to a stop on the managed to keep the bear at bay for Several days later, a large boar boardwalk of the bridge, the bear several hours in this way. grizzly was seen scavenging on continued to bite and pull at the The two cubs observed from the top of the carcass and eventually con- bison’s neck as the bison tried to the hill during most of the incident, and sumed most of the remains. A get back onto its feet. In spite of the stood nearby for an additional two hours week after that, a large male black bear’s continued attempts to tug while we managed crowds and traffic. bear sat with the carcass for an and pull it back down to the ground, During this time, the bison struggled to additional week. The sow and her the bison succeeded in standing keep upright while bleeding profusely two cubs were not seen during the up, and then struggled to remain from its back and hindquarters. The bear remainder of the season. up. It was evident that the bear had made several attempts to finish off the A necropsy was done on the inflicted a severe injury to the bison, but was unsuccessful. The bears remaining carcass. The bison was bison’s hindquarters, and the ani- then left the area for several minutes and determined to be a bull of about mal soon buckled under its own returned, at which point the sow attempted three years of age. It appeared to weight. The bear took advantage another attack, but was rebuffed once have been in good health prior to of this, jumping onto the bison’s again. The bears left and came back sev- the attack and, although slightly back while biting and clawing at it, eral times in this way, with the time skinny, had no major evident inflicting a number of wounds interval increasing between each visit. health faults that would have ham- around the bison’s hump and lower After the last occasion, I investigated pered its ability to function nor- back region. With a quick head the bison in the ditch. It was startled by mally. motion, however, the bull man- my approach, and attempted to climb out. aged to free itself from the bear The bison fell down due to its injuries, Travis currently works for the NPS and stood up once again. A second however, and was unable to pull itself out in Yellowstone as a biological sci- injury was evident at this time, of the mud. A decision was made to ence technician in the Bear Man- with a noticeable fracture of the dispatch the bison, because of its rela- agement Office. He’s been in the bison’s left front leg. The bison, tively unsafe location in view of the pub- park since 1974, and worked for fighting to continue to stand, fought lic, and the high potential for a bearÐ the NPS since 1991 in various off the bear with its horns for sev- human conflict that could occur during capacities. He attended San Di- eral minutes. the night while the site was unattended by ego State University where he At one point, the bear stood up park staff. The carcass was moved a short played baseball for three years and swiped its paws and claws at distance away so that the bear could re- before transferring to and gradu- the bison. The bison reared and turn to it during the night. ating from Iowa State University.

8 Yellowstone Science Never Running From a Fight Mike Finley Looks Back on His Park Service Career

While each of Yellowstone’s superin- if we had company, we had to take them windshields and the family feeding them tendents has left behind some written to Crater Lake, and I got carsick on those out the window when they weren’t sup- record, we can only imagine what we curvy roads. At that time, the superinten- posed to. So it was a real pleasure to come might have learned by sitting down for a dent spent the winters in Medford. The back and find that those things had been talk with Philetus Norris before he re- Park Service built the house just a block corrected. tired in 1882. To provide a more com- from where I lived. Later on, my parents YS: Was it hard to decide which park to plete picture of Yellowstone for future bought that house and moved into it. go to? generations, a collection of tape-recorded But I was going to be a dentist. I went MF: Well, not really, because Yellow- interviews is being assembled. During to college at what was then Southern stone offered me a position with the his last weeks at Yellowstone before leav- Oregon College—it’s now Southern Or- helitack crew. I’d flown a lot with the ing to become president of the Turner egon University—and majored in biol- Forest Service on helicopters and I loved Foundation in Atlanta, Superintendent ogy. I worked the first two summers for it. I flew so much here during the sum- Mike Finley met with Lee Whittlesey, the the government, as a firefighter. It was an mers of ’67 and ’68 that I really got to park’s archivist, and Charissa Reid, a inter-regional hotshot crew at the Rogue know the backcountry. You could have cultural resource specialist in charge of River National Forest, Star Ranger Sta- blindfolded me, opened my eyes, and the oral history program, to share his tion, and it was great. I fought fires in said, “Where are you?” and I could have thoughts for posterity. The following text Montana, southern California, and Ne- told you where you were in Yellowstone. has been adapted from that transcript. vada. We flew to fires all over the 11 So I reported for duty here in Mammoth western states. The problem was I never for training and lived on the third floor of His First Summers in Yellowstone got to see my girlfriend and never got to this administration building, which was date. I got so sick of the word “overtime.” then a barracks dormitory. Mike Finley (MF): I was born in 1947 I got so sick of dirty socks and underwear, We all did horse training because we in Medford, Oregon. Medford is sur- that I thought, “There’s got to be a better were supposed to pack in to the lookouts. rounded by national forests, and I spent a way to spend a summer!” So I took my And then we were sent out to the districts. lot of weekends outdoors with my father, Forest Service fire skills test in the early I went to live at West Yellowstone in the hunting and fishing. My mother didn’t spring of ’67, and applied at Glacier, helitack shack. Joe Frazier was the sub- really like those activities very much, so Yellowstone, and Grand Teton. I was district ranger at the time, a former border she took me to San Francisco to see plays offered a job at all three, on their fire patrol officer. Even though we didn’t and shop. To this day, I feel very comfort- crews. work directly for him, on days when there able in both worlds, the city and the Yellowstone Science (YS): Had you weren’t fires, he was our boss and he country. ever been to any of those parks before? assigned us project work. We painted My first association with a national MF: As a boy I’d been through Yel- boundary posts up in the Gallatin, the park was at Crater Lake. I would roll my lowstone. In about 1957, we drove through ones that are now white with the interna- eyeballs because the family tradition was, the park. I remember bears looking in tional orange cap. We did lots of those.

Summer 2001 9 And we tore down the corral and the barn. station with an empty gas can. People MF: No, they gave me a gun, a citation We also went out to the Upper Blacktail would automatically stop because I had a book, and a pickup. I didn’t wear the gun cabin and tore down the old Army corrals gas can. I never had more than two cars a lot but it was in the truck. I had traded that used to be up there. pass me by. They’d say, “Run out of my orange fire shirt for a gray shirt, so I YS: Isn’t that about the time they started gas?” and I’d say, “Yep!” I’d get a ride to thought I was making progress. Then I to take notice of the elk pens up there too? Old Faithful and then hitchhike back the went to graduate school in natural re- MF: Could have been. I think we did same way, with an empty can of gas. sources and environmental education. In take some pens down. We also tore down June of 1971, I was hired at Big Bend the phone line from Bechler to Snake Becoming a “Lifer” National Park in my first permanent job River Ranger Station. In fact, there’s prob- as a park technician, GS-4. You know, ably still some rolls of number nine cop- MF: I remember that we used to call that pissed me off! It’s the same thing per wire that are out there somewhere in the permanents “lifers.” My first sum- that’s irritated me about personnel rules the woods, because we didn’t get them all mer, this one fellow who was one of the ever since. I had been a grunt, a GS-5 packed out. fire control aides from Oklahoma said, seasonal, so why wouldn’t the bastards YS: Was it a big fire year, ’67? “You going to be a lifer?” I said, “Hell no! pay me a GS-5 as a permanent, particu- MF: I don’t think so. One of those Lifers are screwed up. I’m not going to be larly since my position description was a years, ’67 or ’68, was really cold and a lifer.” GS-7 with a piece of tape over the grade rainy. We didn’t make a lot of overtime YS: Why did you think they were that said GS-4! I was selected off a bilin- and that didn’t sit too well. But it was screwed up? gual register because my Spanish was great because we got to fly a lot. At that MF: Well, just the bureaucracy. And pretty good at the time. time, there were no designated campsites quite frankly, some of the permanent YS: In what part of Big Bend were in the backcountry. And even though it employees we worked with didn’t seem you? wasn’t kosher, if there was an administra- very competent or motivated to us. The MF: I was at Boquillas. There were tive flight, like the helicopter was going second summer, I remember being asked two technicians. Both of us lived right to take the geologist out to do a study, and the same question. And as I said, “No,” I down on the Rio Grande River. I think I we had a day off, we could throw our knew I was being less than truthful—the moved down in June of ‘71. In about backpacks in the helicopter and the pilot national park system had captured me. October or November, the superinten- would just set us down somewhere. We YS: Dentistry school was fading out of dent called us into the office and said, had a radio, and then we’d call ranger the picture? “Boys, the Park Service has an Urban patrol when we were ready to come out MF: Yes. My dentist helped me make Intake Program and I’m going to recom- and they’d shuttle us back to West. So I my decision. I spent a lot of time in his mend you both to become rangers, but camped all over this backcountry on my office—Saturdays, after school and so days off and fished. forth. I was really serious about it. It was YS: Where was the helicopter based like being an intern. He said, “You know, back then? you’d probably make a pretty decent den- MF: I was stationed at the Interagency tist, but that’s not where your heart is.” So Fire Center at West Yellowstone, Mon- I began applying to other parks, and I was tana. We flew a Bell Model 47. “Crash” hired as a seasonal at Redwood National Shellinger was the pilot. He crashed sev- Park. That was about the same time I got eral times, I think. His real name was married. I was trying to avoid service in Bob. He had an Airstream trailer behind Vietnam because I didn’t believe in the the ranger station at West. And because war, but I also didn’t believe in going to he was single at the time he’d bum around Canada, so I joined the National Guard. with us—he was kind of like our older Me and Bill Clinton! brother. We’d go to the Stagecoach Bar In December of 1968, I went to Fort and Crash would be in there looking for a Lewis, Washington, to do basic training date, I guess. But Bob, we thought, was a and then advanced infantry training. So I very safe pilot. He was the one who did a didn’t graduate on schedule with my class- lot of the elk herding in the ‘66–’67 era. mates in June of ’69. That summer, when One of the reasons they called him Crash I came off active duty, I delivered furni- is because his carburetor iced up during ture. I applied at Redwood National Park the winter. for the summer of 1970 and went to work There were three of us on the helitack there as a fire control aide. They con- crew at that time at West. We used to date verted me to a ranger in the fall. at the dances at Old Faithful. I had a great YS: Back in those days before formal Mike with his wife, Lillie, at the scheme worked out. I would stand next to commissions, did they just give you a gun dedication of the new Old Faithful my Volkswagon just beyond the entrance or did they send you to FLETC? Snow Lodge, May 1999. NPS photo.

10 Yellowstone Science you’ve got to have an urban/small park pretty sophisticated program. We had said, “How would you like to be a legis- experience. Are you interested?” I said, two FBI agents that were assigned to the lative affairs specialist? We’ll give you “Hell, yes! I’m interested.” I was inter- park, out of the Merced office. I remem- the Pacific Northwest Region, and the ested in a diversity of experiences—that’s ber hiring snitches that we paid to work Western Region and all the general au- why I was in Brewster County, Texas! I plain clothes. All kinds of drugs were thorities for the Park Service. You’ll work learned a lot there. being sold in the park. The most difficult with Congress.” So I went over to the In 1972, I spent three months at the assignment for me was when dope showed Office of Legislation in 1980. I was there Albright Training Center at Grand Can- up in the Park Service school. I remember for the transition from the Carter Admin- yon and was then shipped to Washington, having to lead a public meeting about istration to the Reagan Administration. D.C., as a GS-5. I remember we couldn’t drugs with parents from the Yosemite even afford magazines or film. It was so grade school and having to interview From Assateague to Alaska expensive to live there. But the program children with their parents about possible was rather interesting. I worked at Oxen drug use. MF: Then in the spring of ’81, I was Hill Children’s Farm doing environmen- I was Acting Chief Criminal Investiga- asked by the Superintendent of Assa- tal education and shoveling manure. I tor until April of ’76, when I was offered teague Island National Seashore, Dick worked on the Smithsonian Mall, telling the job as the law enforcement specialist Tousley, to be the assistant superinten- 10,000 people where the bathrooms were. in the Tetons. I was really thinking that dent. Assateague’s a great place. We were I worked with the designers on parking career-wise, I should get out of law en- working on the General Management lots and so forth at Wolf Trap. I gave forcement, because Yosemite is pretty Plan. And it was about 1982 that Dick interpretive programs at the D.C. jail and specialized. And the Park Service had transferred to Boston as the Associate at St. Elizabeth’s mental health facility. I this huge prejudice about specializing in Director for Operations. The position was learned a lot. It was amazing to me, when law enforcement at the time. But I thought, downgraded, and Russ Dickinson, who they sent me into the D.C. jail, how I was “Doug McLaren and Tom Milligan and was Director at the time, appointed me going to talk to these prisoners who were these other legends in the Tetons have Superintendent of Assateague. mostly black. This fresh-faced white boy been occupying these positions for 20 or YS: That was your first superinten- comes walking in.... But I talked about 25 years. When do you get a chance to dency? fishing in the national parks. A lot of work in Grand Teton National Park? I’ve MF: That was my first superinten- these guys had grown up fishing, so we always wanted to live and work in the dency and the first time I found out that had something to talk about. Tetons. I’m going to take this job.” my children would get dinged in school My first permanent law enforcement My biggest accomplishment there, the because of my decisions. My wife would training was in Washington, D.C. We had one I’m most proud of, was getting con- get challenged in the supermarket be- a combined class of park police and rang- current jurisdiction for the park, so that cause of my decisions. I tried to protect ers that summer. Then in the fall of ‘72, I the feds and the state had equal footing. my family, but I steeled myself at that received my assignment to Pinnacles But I have to tell you, I went through an point. I always felt strongly about pro- National Monument in California. Pin- intellectual slump there. I found that the tecting park resources. I remember stand- nacles was great—it’s just a wonderful job was too narrow for me. I almost quit ing up in public meetings with all these spot! I worked on the fire plan and on the Park Service to enroll in law school. screaming off-road vehicle advocates who upgrading the training. I did a lot of Fortunately, in 1978, the Park Service were mad because we were reducing the rescue training and a lot of climbing on offered me a job in Ranger Activities in area open to off-road vehicles and limit- my own. Washington, D.C. While I was there, I ing their access on the beach. I said, did take two night classes at Georgetown, “We’re closing just a small percentage, Finley left Pinnacles in the fall of 1973 but I decided that I couldn’t do both my but we’re going to close it. I think it’s the to participate in an exchange program job and law school justice. I was in charge right thing to do.” that Yosemite had with the California of service-wide regulations. At Yosemite, I never planned to be a superintendent. state parks. After nearly a year at Big we had to prosecute misdemeanors, and I My career goal was always to be a ranger, Basin State Park on the coast north of became very familiar with the elements and just a field ranger. And those are Santa Cruz, Finley moved with his wife, of criminal law and regulations, rules of probably some of my most rewarding Lillie, and their two daughters to evidence, and rules of procedure. At the memories—collecting campground fees Yosemite, where he worked first as a park Tetons, I prosecuted all the misdemean- in Big Bend National Park and working ranger and then as the law enforcement ors on behalf of the United States with the public in Yosemite at the park specialist. Attorney’s Office. So I was really com- ranger level. There’s that interaction and fortable with doing the regulations job vicarious enjoyment you get from the Specializing in Law Enforcement and working with the attorneys in Wash- public, that feedback of, “Oh, ranger, we ington. And then again, I’ve loved diver- did the trip you told us today. Tell us what YS: So you got to be the chief criminal sity in everything I’ve done. to do tomorrow.” I must have done investigator for a year. After a year and a half, they called me 150,000 itineraries. But there was a point MF: Yes. At that time, Yosemite had a up from the Office of Legislation and where, as rewarding as that was, I felt I

Summer 2001 11 wasn’t fulfilled intellectually. So, while I to an argument, over the use of law en- MF: Because we kept it quiet. initially didn’t aspire to be a superinten- forcement, park rangers versus park po- YS: You must have felt strongly about dent, somewhere along the path, as I lice. He was advocating park police and I threats to that park’s resources. looked at people who were superinten- told him he was nuts, because they weren’t MF: That park was dying! And no one dents—and quite frankly, a lot of them multiple-skilled, and they didn’t have would take on Big Sugar. Big Sugar was were marginal, if not less than marginal— training or experience in natural resources. part of the reason that the park was dying. I wondered how they’d got there. I felt Anyway, it was one of those kind of tense I was the first superintendent that started that I could do the job as well as they moments. When he left I thought, “Well, saying the “S” word. Then I got so that I could, but that I had to play the game. In I’m screwed with this Director.” would say to the press, “This is an indus- other words, I had to get the experience But lo and behold, his assistant called try born of subsidy because it was created and compete to get there. It wasn’t just me in the spring of ’86 and said, “The by the Corps of Engineers and all the going to happen because I wished for it. Director wants to interview you for the canals, maintained by subsidy through And the reason that I sought to be a superintendency of the Everglades.” Then the South Florida Water Management superintendent was that I wanted to bring I had to go to Lillie and say, “Lillie, do District, and now they want us to subsi- about change. As frustrating as it is to sit you want to go to the Everglades?” Lillie dize their waste disposal,” which was in that office—because you can’t make said, “Oh, I’m not sure I want to go.” I pumping their wastewater, loaded with change as fast as you want, you have to said, “This is your decision, seriously.” phosphorous and nitrogen, into the Ever- sell a lot of ideas, you can’t mandate So she looked at real estate and came glades and destroying the ecosystem. I everything—it’s quicker to do it from the back and said, “I don’t want to stay there told the executive director of the water superintendent’s chair than it is lower in forever, but for a short time we’ll go.” management district, “I’m going to do the organization. You can’t make those Then I met Bill Mott in Washington everything I can to protect this park, decisions unless you’re the superinten- National Airport. I said, “I’m here to including litigation.” dent. interview for the Superintendent of the YS: So you took them on? Not long after, in the spring of ’83, Everglades.” And he says, “No you’re MF: Well, it wasn’t me alone. I was Roger Contor, the Regional Director in not, I want you to take the job! I want you working behind the scenes with the Envi- Alaska, called me and said, “I want you to to go to the Everglades and save the ronmental Defense Fund and the Natural come to Alaska as Associate Regional Florida panther. I want you to raise hell. Resources Defense Council on filing a Director for Operations.” When I asked I want you to do everything you can to lawsuit against the sugar industry, the my wife, “Well, where should we go protect that park.” And I said, “Well, can water management district, and the state. next?”, she said, “I don’t care. There’s I talk to my wife first?” He says, “Go The state and the water management dis- only two places I never want to go, Alaska ahead and talk to your wife, but I want trict had the authority and responsibility and the Everglades.” But Lillie and I you to go!” to protect the Everglades, but they were talked it through and she said, “Well, I afraid of Big Sugar. They just didn’t have guess we’ll survive.” I remember I was Taking on the Sugar Daddies the political will to take it on. I was walking on the beach with one of my looking for a partner for a lawsuit. And, daughters and the tears were in her eyes, MF: In June of ’86, we packed up, of course, a private lawsuit by a conser- because she had friends in the school at drove to the Everglades, and bought a vation group doesn’t have the standing of Assateague. I said, “Well, how about home. Everglades was probably the most the United States. moving to Alaska?” She wanted to know interesting intellectual job because we But there was a former Democratic if there were boys in Alaska. had 13 endangered species in the park. state senator by the name of Dexter Actually, Alaska was good for me be- We were trying to balance restoring fire Lehtinen, who had switched parties and cause I picked up a lot of new knowledge and water cycles. We had a huge political was now a Republican. He had grown up in concessions, maintenance, planning, infrastructure, in terms of jurisdictions, in Homestead and was everybody’s home- interpretation, and mining and minerals. counties, state, water management dis- town hero. Well, I had learned that a lot of We had a Mining Office in Spokane that trict, and the Corps of Engineers. It was a protection that I couldn’t get done at the was a satellite office. I got into validity bureaucratic nightmare. We ended up federal level, I could get done under state claims and all the stuff that goes with suing the state and the water management law, so I began working with Dexter. I mining. We were trying to build up the district. That’s why I had to leave town, had testified before committees in Talla- Park Service presence in Alaska and pro- because we sued without the knowledge hassee. I’d testified before the Governor tect it. Bill Mott came up and we gave him and consent of the Secretary of Interior or and cabinet on behalf of the Everglades. a tour around Alaska. the Attorney General. And because he was a golden boy in the YS: He was the NPS Director then? YS: Was that a decision by the law Republican Party, when the United States MF: Yes, he was the Director. We enforcement people there? Attorney left Miami, Dexter was ap- were eating caribou steaks in one of the MF: That was a decision by the Acting pointed Acting U.S. Attorney. Previously, government quarters overlooking Brooks U.S. Attorney and me. I couldn’t even get in the door of that Lake in Katmai National Park, and we YS: Why is it that those other people office because mostly it was big drugs got into a pretty strong discussion, close didn’t know? and so forth.

12 Yellowstone Science I’d been thinking about how I could a Vietnam vet—lost an eye. meet this guy in his new office. I’d known And because of him and his him before, but what’s my aegis? He’s willingness to take the risk, going to be so busy! Then he called me we filed that lawsuit. out of the blue and said, “Mike, I want to Then, serendipitously, we help you save the Everglades.” And I didn’t even know it, but thought, “God, this is great!” I said, “I’m Thornberg had launched this ready!” He said, “Well, we’re going to program to protect our take some risks.” We met at the Firehouse nation’s waters. Restaurant, which was an old fire station. YS: This was Attorney I’ll never forget that lunch. He said, “Let’s General Dick Thornberg? sue them,” meaning the state and the MF: Yes. When the media water management district. I said, “How got a hold of him, they said, are we going to do that? You need a client “Is this the first example of in the Interior Department.” It was during your program?” And he said, the Hodel administration at that time, and “Well, not really, but it’s simi- Reagan was not going to give the author- lar.” ity to sue Sugar. They would never ap- YS: He couldn’t quite take prove that. But Dexter said, “Well, we credit for it? won’t tell them. You have your technical MF: He couldn’t quite take people work with my attorneys. We’ll credit for it, but he couldn’t draft a complaint. We’ll file suit.” deny it when the heat was on. So the United States sued the state of So then there’s the election in Florida and the South Florida Water November. Dexter and I were Management District in October 1988, called before the Justice De- Mike during his stint in the Everglades. just weeks before the national elections. partment in December. It was NPS photo. The allegations were that they were de- raining, and as I closed the stroying federal property by delivering umbrella I pinched my finger water that was heavily laden with pollut- and I dropped a little blood on ants. We had a contract with the water the step. Dexter looked down and he said, tary, how about we expand Everglades management district to deliver water at a “If that’s all the blood you lose in here National Park?”—Republican to Repub- certain standard, and the State Depart- today, you’ll be lucky.” lican. Hodel said, “Let’s do it.” And it ment of Environmental Regulation was The outgoing Reagan politicals said, was ultimately enacted in 1990. We had failing to enforce state regulations. We “You guys have violated all the Justice great support in the Governor’s office at filed the lawsuit on Monday at 4 o’clock Department rules. Dexter Lehtinen, you’ll that time. That’s why I hated to sue the in the afternoon so the state couldn’t call never be confirmed as the United States Governor. the Justice Department in Washington Attorney. You’ll be lucky if you’re not and get the suit dismissed. fired. Superintendent Finley, you may be Showing the Maps to George Bush, Sr. Then Dexter said to me, “Now at 10 fired also. Before the United States sues o’clock tomorrow morning we’re having a sovereign state, you’re supposed to MF: The President-elect, George a news conference, and I want you there consult the Governor.” So after they’ve Bush, Sr., had been fishing in the Ever- in uniform. The two of us are going to been beating up on us for an hour or a glades many times when he was Vice hang together.” Well, I called my Re- little more, Dexter looks down at his President, but I just sort of ignored it. I gional Director and said, “Bob, we’re watch and says, “Gentlemen, excuse me, had too many other things to do. But after doing something here that’s probably I have a luncheon date at the White the election, I thought, “Okay, it’s impor- going to rock the boats.” He was anxious, House.” The luncheon had nothing to do tant to make contact.” So I went to his but I said, “Just trust me—we need to do with him, it was for his wife, the first fishing guide, George Hummel, and I this.” I called up Mott and he was ecstatic. Cuban-American congresswoman. asked, “What do you and George Bush He said, “Do it! Do it!” We’d also been working on federal talk about? Is he really concerned about It felt great. There were 24 cameras legislation called the Everglades Protec- protecting the waters in Florida Bay?” He there that morning for the news confer- tion Act, to expand the park boundaries said, “Yes.” I told him, “You need to tell ence, and of course everything breaks right up to the urban agricultural zone. him that his fishing hole’s dying.” And he loose. There’s a media bias in favor of the We arranged for Governor Martinez, a asked, “How do I tell him that?” So I Everglades and that helped. Dexter Republican who had been working on it, came down with all my maps and charts switched over into Spanish for the Span- to discuss it with Hodel. That happened and my nitrate columns. He told me, “I ish-speaking stations there. He was a in a van overlooking Florida Bay, where can’t remember this. You talk to him.” good politician, a little bit of a crazy man, the Governor of Florida said, “Mr. Secre- And I said, “The administration’s never

Summer 2001 13 going to let me talk to the incoming tant. The sugar industry is just too power- from being an environmental hero with President.” He said, “Well, I’ll rig it.” ful in Florida. all kinds of awards at the Everglades— Then Howard Baker, who was Chief of the Sierra Club, two awards from Staff under Reagan in the first term, was Selling Fudge in Yosemite Audubon—to being a bad guy in bird watching in the Everglades and he Yosemite. It was amazing to me. calls and says, “Can a former Chief of YS: So what was it that needed to be The San Jose Mercury News did a Staff still get a boat ride from a ranger?” done in Yosemite that made you an at- survey when I was at Yosemite, They And I said, “Do you have a few minutes tractive candidate for that job? called Park Service managers and said, to spend with me to talk about this park?” MF: I asked to go to Yosemite and they “Would you like to be Superintendent of I drove down on Sunday and met him in needed to get me out of Florida. It was Yosemite?” Most of the superintendents my office. I said, “You know, Howard, kind of serendipitous. There just hap- said “No.” When asked why, they said, this park’s dying. We need political help pened to be a vacancy at Yosemite and “Because it’s an impossible job.” And to get this thing on the radar screen. I need my mother had Alzheimer’s. I needed to Yosemite is difficult, just like Yellow- to meet with Bush, because he’s got to get closer to Oregon. stone’s difficult. But Yellowstone is not coordinate this mess down here between YS: It wasn’t like you had some kind of impossible. You could do certain things. the Corps of Engineers, EPA, Park Ser- an agenda there? vice, Fish and Wildlife Service.” He said, MF: No. Yosemite was very difficult Taking On the New World Mine “Okay, we’ll see what we can do.” for me politically. In Florida, I had the Lo and behold, I get this call, “You’re conservation groups all on my side, but at YS: How was it that you came to Yel- supposed to meet the President-elect for Yosemite the conservation groups were lowstone? lunch on Florida Bay when he’s down beating up the Park Service for a fudge MF: In February of ’94, Roger there fishing.” This was in January, just table in the village store, for renting vid- Kennedy, who was then Director of the before his inauguration. So we just went eos to employees, and for selling pizza. I Park Service, told me he wanted me to up alongside the President’s boat. He’s was testifying against cloud seeding, come to Washington as Acting Associate fishing with George Hummel. And he which was changing the climate over Director of Operations. While I was in said, “I understand we’ve got some prob- Yosemite, and some bigger issues, such Washington, John Reynolds, the Deputy lems, Mike.” And I said, “Yeah, but I as ozone destroying pines at six to seven Director, asked me if I’d like to go to know you’re on vacation.” And he said, thousand feet, but I could never get the Alaska as Regional Director. I said, “Well, “Well, come on over here and talk about interest of the conservationists— I don’t know. I’ll see.” I had just left there them.” And I said, “I have maps and Yosemite Restoration Trust, Yosemite in ’86—same cast of characters, same charts.” And he says, “Bring them over.” Action—to focus on protecting natural political issues—and I didn’t know if I So we sat there for 20 minutes. And then resources. They were totally focused on was ready to go back. He said, “Go ahead he says, “Well, Mike, what do I need to amenity values. I remember saying, and think about it.” Then about two weeks do?” And I said, “Don’t let your Justice “Should I stop selling Hershey bars?” later he asked, “How would you like to go Department dismiss that lawsuit and sup- The building was there, it’s not like we to Yellowstone as Superintendent?” I said, port the park expansion.” He said, “Okay.” built a fudge factory. It’s only a table. “I thought you wanted me to think about So anyway, this all came together. The To the Bay Area and that affinity, Alaska.” He says, “Don’t think about it Justice Department wouldn’t support the Yosemite is the temple, and you don’t anymore,” which helped me figure out constitutional violation of property clause, sell fudge in the temple. They said, “This that Bob Barbee was going to Alaska. and they didn’t want it on the record that is such a travesty! They have a video That’s why the Yellowstone position was a court would uphold the Organic Act, rental!” Well, it was an old service station open. but it was settled out of court. Then it was that we converted. We didn’t rent the I had been following Yellowstone is- time for me to move to Yosemite because videos to the public. It was a place for the sues, anyway—the vision document and we had irritated a lot of people. employees. We were trying to cut down that kind of stuff—but I started my learn- I had more fun with politics in Florida on alcoholism and drugs, give them some- ing curve when I came out in August to than I did anywhere else, because there thing to do. You can’t hike 24 hours a meet with Secretary Babbitt for the New was so much connectivity. But I felt I had day! World Mine field trip. I remember saying to leave because I’d sued the people I had We did a huge concessions plan for the to him, “I want to take on this mine. This to work with on a daily basis. I couldn’t next contract. I remember people stand- is wrong. It’s going to be a serious threat then be partner with the South Florida ing up and saying, “They don’t need to the park.” He didn’t want me to do it Water Management District. I had vio- showers. Tear down the Ahwahnee Ho- then, because the 1872 mining law was lated that trust. tel,” which would be like tearing down up for amendment in the Congress and he YS: You don’t regret it? the Lake Hotel here. You wouldn’t build didn’t want to upset any negotiations. MF: No, I don’t regret it one bit, but it it in today’s world, but these buildings YS: He actually thought they were go- was probably the closest I’ve come, in all have become cultural icons. I had people ing to do something? the things I’ve done, to losing my job. It sing to me in owl suits. There were dem- MF: He thought something might hap- was worth it because the park was impor- onstrations in Yosemite Valley. I went pen. So I said, “Well, if that doesn’t

14 Yellowstone Science happen, I need your support on this.” So the park. But it almost backfired, because YS: You mean, because it doesn’t go later on, when the 1872 mining law revi- it really irritated the Wyoming and Mon- through the Director? sion went down in flames, I was already tana delegations. They’ve all been sup- MF: It doesn’t go through anybody. starting to make some statements, but I porting legislation that would require wasn’t as blunt and provocative as I these designations [World Heritage Site, Tour Guide for the Clintons wanted to be. I didn’t want my legs cut International Biosphere Reserve] only be out from under me by the Park Service done with the approval of Congress. Then MF: When the Clintons came in 1995, Director, and I wanted protection at the the Secretary called me again and said, “I I was supposed to do an aerial tour with top, so I called him and said, “I want to don’t want you to play the World Heri- them, hike at Canyon, do Old Faithful, fly take on the New World Mine as power- tage card anymore.” I told him, “I’ve over the mine, feed the wolves. We were fully as I can. I still think it’s a great risk already stopped. I figured it was backfir- flying in a Blackhawk, one of the presi- to this park.” He said, “You have the ing on us.” And he said, “You’re right.” dential helicopters. I started chatting with longest leash in the world.” So I began to Every year since the hearing we had Hillary and she knew I’d been at Yosemite use my leash. here on the New World Mine with the and started talking to me about issues at But then I criticized the EIS process World Heritage Committee, there’s been Yosemite. She’d either been well-briefed that the Forest Service was doing. Of a bill introduced by Don Young in Con- or she’s well read. Smart woman! course, the Forest Service went crazy. gress called the American Lands Sover- When we were getting ready to land at They went to the Secretary of Agriculture eignty Act, to do away with these desig- Old Faithful where the President was to and he called up Babbitt. Babbitt called nations except when approved by Con- give a speech out on the balcony, the me and said, “Mike, a little friendly ad- gress. So that was the other leash shorten- President said to me, “You know, I don’t monition for you. You’ve got to lay off ing. follow a speech. I just sort of jot down the process, and the Forest Service. I But I have to tell you, I conspired with notes and extemporize. What do you think promised the Secretary of Agriculture the Secretary a lot. I was trying to be about fees?” I made some suggestions that I would get you to lay off in exchange careful not to damage my NPS relation- about keeping the fees and he used it. for an improved process.” And I said, “So ships too much, but the park was more Then after we took off from Old Faith- you’re shortening my leash.” Babbitt said important than offending some NPS offi- ful for the mine, the pilot said, “Now to me, “Well, we’re just taking it up a cial who didn’t have the guts or vision to you’ll have to take us there.” I could see notch or two.” protect this place. Fortunately, he would Silver Gate and Cooke City from where I So we invited the World Heritage com- call me on something or I would call him. was sitting, but I had a limited view out mittee to come to Yellowstone. We put And that’s something that happens in the side. I said, “Now go past Cooke City that together with the Department of the Yellowstone and Yosemite and some of and then take a left and look for the Interior to get one more press event, one the bigger parks, where you can have that scarring and the mine waste.” Well, pretty more set of issues out there to demon- direct relationship with the Secretary. soon we’re out somewhere. I looked out strate that this mine was a bad thing for You don’t abuse it, but you use it wisely. the window and, we’re flying out over the wilderness. I don’t recognize any fea- tures. The pilot’s saying, “We’re getting low on fuel. We’re getting short on time.” And I’m going, “Damn! If I blow this and I get lost out here and we don’t get to show the President the New World Mine, I’m going to get toasted by everybody, from employees to environmental groups.” So finally I said, “Go back down to- ward the road.” So we went back down there and I said, “Okay now.” Then we saw it. You could see the springs—there’s like 13 springs that come out of the side, above Miller Creek, that are tributaries. And they were all green. And I remember how important it was to talk about how Miller Creek was a tributary of Soda Butte and how this acid mine drainage would come into Yellowstone. So I said Superintendent Finley with President Clinton and Mike Clark (former director of to the President, “Now if you and I are not the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, seated left) during the New World Mine buyout successful, that won’t be a green strip, celebration, 1996. NPS photo. that’ll be rust brown coming down there.”

Summer 2001 15 And he told me afterwards, just as we went to Costa Rica, and we had the initial gallery. We’ll have the Art Activity Cen- were landing, he put his hand on my knee workshops here. That was something that ter, which is now Hamilton’s Photo Shop, and he said, “Look, we’re going to pro- was extremely important, but it was dis- that will be moved, probably over by the tect Yellowstone.” cretionary. I could have said no, but Varley lodge, and assigned to the Yellowstone We flew to the Rose Creek pen and was persistent about it, and he was right. Art Trust. It will be for art education, and then went up and fed the wolves. The YS: Probably the same with the Yel- there’ll be art supplies and artworks for Secret Service didn’t want him in the lowstone Park Foundation. sale. We’ll have more paintings made wolf pen. I said, “Oh, come on. I’ve had MF: Establishing the Foundation was into notecards, and a percentage of those ten percent of the United States Senate in one of my goals. I consider it a large one, sales will go to run the trust. there.” The agent said, “Not this Presi- not because it’s controversial, but be- YS: What was the genesis of that? dent—you’re not going to risk this Presi- cause it has the potential to have a huge MF: We have all these free prints in dent’s life.” But Hillary’s saying, “Oh, impact here. I’d seen it at Yosemite. I these offices because of Laurie Simms, we’re going to get to see the wolves.” always thought, “What can I do that’s former owner of Mill Pond Press, who And I said, “Well, the Secret Service going to outlive my tenure here? What do had given me prints in Anchorage. We doesn’t want you to do that. They’ve said you leave as a legacy that keeps giving?” framed them, but the prints were free. She you can’t go in the pen. Of course, it’s We’ve set up three non-profits since gave me free prints in Yosemite. So when your decision.” She said, “Don’t worry I’ve been here. The Foundation was the I came to Yellowstone and looked around, about it. I’ll take care of it.” And she did. first one. We created another one with I said, “You know, we can do better than Then the second trip he made, I flew up Mike Clark, the Yellowstone Heritage this.” I called Laurie and she sent boxes with him from Jackson Hole for the New Trust. Mike Clark and I sat at my coffee of prints which we farmed out to various World Mine ceremony. And again, when table and drank beer after the New World offices around the park. Then we wanted we landed, he said, “What’s your take on Mine victory, because we’d worked very to get original artwork. Right now we’re my message on this mine?” I said, “My closely together on that, and discussed sitting here and I’m looking at seven take is two things. One, you protected what to do next. I said, “Well, what’s the original art pieces that we bought with Yellowstone National Park, which is the next greatest threat to the Yellowstone Chip Davis money to start a public col- most important thing. But two, you pro- ecosystem?” He said, “Habitat fragmen- lection. The Old Faithful Visitor Educa- tected private property rights. So you get tation.” I said, “I agree. What can we do tion Center plan has 2,000 square feet set a little boost there.” And he used that. to acquire easements to protect open space aside for art. But those things were all calculated, all in the greater Yellowstone?” He said, I get the criticism that I’m never in the part of the strategy to protect Yellow- “Let’s form an institution.” We did that. park, but you don’t start a foundation by stone. Very, very important. There are a It’s now incorporated and has a board. staying in the park. You don’t raise funds lot of people that deserve credit for the Mike’s now the Executive Director and for an Old Faithful Visitor Center by not New World Mine victory. But Mike Clark, he’s raising money. going to New York City and meeting the former director of the Greater Yel- The third one we signed into existence with Canon and Unilever and Sony. If lowstone Coalition, is probably one of May 11. It is the Yellowstone Art Trust. you believe in the goal, which is to sus- the most prominent leaders in terms of It is to facilitate what you see on the walls tain the foundation and help it grow and protecting Yellowstone. of the superintendent’s conference room, become more credible, and you believe in donations of original artwork by major the Old Faithful Visitor Education Cen- His Yellowstone Agenda artists—“Imagine Yellowstone,” the ter, that doesn’t happen by sitting in your children’s art program, and workshops office in Yellowstone. You can’t be in YS: When you came to Yellowstone, for the public and so forth. The first one Idaho Falls or Cody with the chamber of did you have a particular agenda? Was is down at the Old Faithful Inn, by Paco commerce, be fundraising, be in the there a list of things you needed to take Young. I just happen to think it’s impor- backcountry meeting with the trail crew. care of? tant, which is why we did these purchase There’s just not enough time to do all MF: I’ve always had my own agenda. awards and started a public collection to those things. Every once in a while, for I had big picture items I wanted to do. I be displayed in the new Old Faithful example, I got down to Lake to talk to the knew we had to do a bison EIS, because Visitor Education Center. troops and look at the dock. I don’t get to when I arrived at my desk here, I had YS: How will that get funded? do those things as much as I want. And three or four calls from Governor Racicot. MF: Mostly through the sale of art. those are the really fun things. In fact, my first meeting was with him. I’d There are already artists’ works for sale only been here two weeks and went up on the walls in the Snow Lodge. Amfac Digging for Dollars and talked to him about bison. That’s a has agreed to allow the Yellowstone Art different story, how he reneged on the Trust to sell art on consignment, and YS: You’ve really worked hard on get- deal and sued me in a sneak attack. Amfac will get a percentage of the sale. A ting the word out that the infrastructure in The benefit-sharing agreement for mi- gallery takes 50 percent, so if you have parks is really in need of more money. If crobes was something on our own initia- the Trust taking 10 and Amfac taking 10, you’re looking at this legacy, how do you tive that we did here. John Varley and I that’s better than selling a painting at a feel about that particular issue?

16 Yellowstone Science MF: The improvement of infrastruc- ture was a need here. We diverted a lot of fee money to the roads. The roads are better than they were four years ago. I think everyone will acknowledge that. We worked with the Senate to get the money doubled for the national program, which also got Yellowstone’s share doubled. We’ve got a 19-year program now to get the roads done. The infrastruc- ture will be fine over time with continued funding. I’ve always kept my mind on various levels of opportunities, not just all big ones. If I feel good about this job, it’s because we have a bus shuttling employ- ees now to Livingston. I got the three surplus busses by signing an agreement with INEEL. It doesn’t benefit the park, Receiving a $300,000 check from Canon, U.S.A., in 1997. Pictured (left to right) park-wide, except for field trips, but it’s are John Varley, YCR Director; Keith Paglen of Canon; Marv Jensen, Assistant the right thing to do. I feel good about Superintendent; Mike Finley; and Wilke Nelson of the National Park Foundation. some of the more moderate issues, like NPS photo. the two new fourplexes at the East En- trance. I feel really good about the new fourplex at the Northeast Entrance. I feel good about the fourplex at Canyon. I Enzi’s staff supported the buyout of the to support here. The parks have been allocated $220,000 to build two garages CUT—the Royal Teton Ranch, located chronically under-funded for years, par- at West Yellowstone for interior employ- north of Gardiner, Montana, that was ticularly Yellowstone. So to say you have ees. I feel good about that. We set aside previously owned by the Church Univer- a standard, and here’s where we derived $325,000 of coin money [raised from the sal and Triumphant. But other than that, that standard from, and here’s what it sale of commemorative coins produced he has not been particularly helpful in costs to run this right. You can see the for Yellowstone’s 125th anniversary] to Yellowstone. Max Baucus has not been jeopardy of not running it right. You buy part of the Davis Collection, one of supportive. Representative Hill was not don’t get a $700 million backlog if you the best and most complete collections of supportive at all. Senator Burns has been have a preventive maintenance budget. historic Yellowstone-related material awful. He has just been at philosophical In natural resources, if we had the money known to exist. I feel good about that. odds with us. He doesn’t think that I run to do inventory and monitoring, we could Those are mid-range issues. the ranch right, I’m not a very good have done some mitigation earlier. We My biggest concern—and Park Ser- rancher. I keep reminding Conrad this is might have found lake trout much earlier vice-wide, not just in Yellowstone—is not a ranch. if we had been doing more extensive that the operating budgets are deficient. YS: What do you see for the future at monitoring in Yellowstone Lake. We just Right now, we can’t afford to fill 14 Yellowstone? did the minimum that we’ve done every percent of our permanent positions. That’s MF: A lot of it depends on funding, September for so many years. shameful. You have a President up there which is why I spent some time doing The That’s a regret I have, that I was not saying, “We took care of our budget and State of the Park report and the Business able to communicate this and increase the now we’re going to give everyone a tax Plan. It will say, “Here are the resources operating budget here. We did it one year break.” He didn’t take care of this budget we need based on a workload analysis to when we closed Norris Campground. The or any other park’s. That’s my biggest do the job up to a standard.” It’s got a high next year we got a $1.5 million budget disappointment. cost. Sure, it’s got a sticker shock, an increase. Isn’t it a shame, though, that The Wyoming delegation has not been extra $70 million. So what! The Univer- you have to resort to a closure? particularly supportive in terms of policy sity of Wyoming’s budget is almost $250 YS: I recall your closing the Dunraven issues. They didn’t support wolf reintro- million a year. It takes about $296 million Road or threatening to close the Old Faith- duction. They don’t support the snowmo- a year to run one aircraft carrier. ful Visitor Center or Grant Village. Do bile ban. But when it comes to the road As a society we have accepted costs for you find those things tend to work? program, Senator Thomas has been very hospitals and universities at hundreds of MF: You have to do it. The way we got supportive. When it comes to the Old millions of dollars—for managing smaller the roads program was by closing the Faithful sewage treatment plant, Barbara geographic areas, with fewer functions, Dunraven Road. That was legitimate be- Cubin’s been very supportive. Mike and not the multiple disciplines we have cause there was safety at risk there. Some

Summer 2001 17 of the road crew named that one section ees, have never disappointed me. The of grassroots groups. For example, I met of potholes Beirut, after Beirut, Lebanon. National Park Service has disappointed with the Gallatin Valley Land Trust just They couldn’t keep it patched. I saw a me many times in its decision not to the other morning. The Turner Founda- pickup one afternoon actually hit those protect park resources and in its lack of tion gives them $10,000 a year. That land holes and shimmy across into the other vision. That’s just the nature of bureau- trust is doing great things to help preserve lane. If there’d have been a car there, cracy and the changes in personality and Gallatin Valley. The Turner Foundation you’d have had a head-on collision. leadership, or lack of it, in the organiza- just gave the Yellowstone Park Founda- YS: So why do you think there hasn’t tion. I found I spent more time fighting tion $40,000. They gave the League of been the impact that you wanted on the internal paperwork, fighting people in- Conservation Voters $15 million for the operating budget? side the organization, than I did fighting education fund for this last election, and MF: Maybe this administration will outside. Over these years it’s become Planned Parenthood got $7.5 million. He look to doing more than just bricks and worse and I think my peers would agree wants me to grow the program into new mortar, which is what they’re doing now with me. That’s a terrible shame. areas. Ultimately, the Foundation will be with the $5 billion that the President has So, after 32 years, it’s time to move on. endowed with over six billion dollars. pledged, because that’s always safe. I had always said that I wanted a second YS: Do you have any political aspira- That’s what’s so disheartening about it. career for some portion of time. This is tions or anything, beyond the Turner The National Parks and Conservation As- the fourth job Ted offered me. He wanted Foundation? sociation is meeting with the Secretary me to run the Vermejo Park Ranch after MF: When I get back to Oregon I saying, “You need money for research he bought it, 580,000 acres, and Mike might want to be on a fish and game and interpreters and all the other aspects Phillips to reintroduce the Mexican wolf. commission or something. I’m not going of the parks.” But there’s no political risk Neither of us was ready to move down to run for office. involved in fixing things up. It’s really there at that time. Ted then offered me the YS: So you plan to retire in Oregon? passed through to a lot of contractors, so job of running some other aspects of his MF: Yes, we own a home in Oregon it’s pork barrel that’s going to the roofer operation. I really thought about that, but that’s rented out right now. We’ll retire to in Livingston and the road guy from the timing was wrong. There were too Oregon. I don’t know how long I’ll be at Casper. It’s a way to say you’re doing many things I really wanted to finish here the Turner Foundation. I’ll do it as long as something for the parks, which you are at that point, He recently talked to me I’m interested and having fun. and you can’t deny that these things need about being a vice president of the U.N. to be done, but it’s really just a pass Foundation, but then this came along. It’s Partners and Neighbors through to the local economy. You’re not the perfect job for me at this stage of my hiring federal employees, which a lot of life. The programs that the Turner Foun- YS: Does it worry you, who they’re administrations don’t want to do. It’s an dation supports—clean water and clean going to put in your job when you leave? easy way out, which is why they chose it, air, alternative energy, mass transit, popu- MF: It does. If I wasn’t uncomfortable in my view. That’s why the Watt admin- lation—all these issues are important to about this administration and if I thought istration chose PRIP when they came in, me personally and appeal to me intellec- they were just going to bring in another the Park Restoration and Improvement tually. I believe they’re critical to society. good, solid Park Service professional, I Program. It was all about improving in- The Turner Foundation supports a lot wouldn’t have any regrets about leaving. frastructure too, radio towers, bridges, and sewage treatment plants. This is all safe stuff. It doesn’t get you crosswise with any of your constituency groups. Just think, if we did research we might find that we have to do something. We might have to act to protect the park.

Moving On to the Turner Foundation

YS: Why did you decide to leave Yel- lowstone now? Was it the change in ad- ministration? Was becoming President at the Turner Foundation just the perfect job? Mike (front right) with MF: I love the parks and the national Ted Turner (standing park system, but I have an ambivalent second to right) on a feeling toward the Park Service. I’ve al- wolf-watching visit, June ways had this love-hate relationship. The 1995. Photo courtesy parks themselves, most of their employ- Douglas Smith.

18 Yellowstone Science We all emphasize certain programs in our told me, “I’ll lose my insurance contract from a fight. And that’s the only thing careers. What you do as a manager is try and I’ll go out of business, but I want you that gives me second thoughts—am I to sustain the good things that someone to know I think you are right and we need running from a fight? else has done and build off of that. I hope to protect the park.” But they have to say YS: With the new administration? the superintendents who come after me that with the shades drawn, or economi- MF: Yes—or any user group who will sustain the arts program, whether cally they’re punished. Shunning is alive views parks as commodities to be they like the arts or not. and well. And greed is alive and well. exploited by a few to the detriment of the I worry because some of the local neigh- And so it’s really the loudmouth, greedy many. But actually I’m running to a fight, bors said to the politicians that I wasn’t a entrepreneurs who look at Yellowstone because I’m going to a place with more very good neighbor, I didn’t get along only as a commodity that I find most allies and more money. I am going to well, and that they need someone who offensive and that I’ve stood up against. make the protection of natural resources can partner up and form more associa- That resistance will need to continue in my highest priority. And we will be there tions and get along better with the gate- the future. every time the enemies of conservation way communities. Well, we have all kinds So anyway, I’m sure they’re going to try to engage in a rollback of environ- of partnerships. We formed a museum say, “We want someone who will get mental safeguards or implement some association partnership with a number of along better with the gateway communi- other program that’s contrary to law, the museums around the region. It was ties.” Does that mean roll over? The an- policy, good sense, or the long-term my idea to do that, to meet with the swer is “yes.” If I had any trepidation protection of natural resources. Buffalo Bill Historical Center, the Yel- about leaving here, it’s that I’ve never run lowstone Art Museum, the National Mu- seum of Wildlife Art, and the Museum of the Rockies. I think I counted up 35 partnerships that we have here, from the Northern Range Working Group to the Trumpeter Swan Working Group. We’ve been partnering all over the place in this park and have done so for years. Conrad Burns drives me crazy when he says we’re not a good neighbor. We do EMS in Cooke City. We haul their gar- bage. We plow their highway for them. We paved the runway for the Gardiner airport. We sent our dump trucks down twice for flooding in Livingston, at no cost to them. So when they say that we’re not a very good neighbor and we don’t partner, it’s because we won’t do what a gateway community wants, irrespective of the damage to the park resources or park experience. Mike (back right), Bruce Babbitt (front right), and Mollie Beattie (front middle) I’ve found there are wonderful men carry in the first wolf, 1995. NPS photo. and women in Cody, Jackson, West Yel- lowstone, and Livingston who care about In June 2001, the NPS announced the recipients of the six Natural Resource the park. But often they don’t have the Stewardship and Science Awards for 2000. The Director’s Award for Superinten- economic power to make the policy calls dent of the Year for Natural Resource Stewardship was awarded to Mike Finley. that some of these leading snowmobile “Mike’s leadership has resulted in making progress in several complex contro- rental vendors or others have. I have had versial resource issues. Under Mike’s stewardship, the gray wolf (Canis lupus) several meetings in West Yellowstone has been successfully reintroduced into the park. He has championed the protec- where 20 or 25 people who own busi- tion of park resources in a joint bison management plan with the State of Montana nesses can only meet with me quietly, and the Department of Agriculture, and in the Record of Decision for Winter Use because they’ll either be shunned or lose in Yellowstone, issued in November 2000. Finally, Mike was instrumental in business if they’re seen taking the park’s leading efforts to conserve the Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Mr. Finley has shown side. Craig and Jackie Mathews are won- strong support for scientific research and professional resource management. He derful people and they’ve stepped out- has recognized the importance of good information in decision-making, insisting side the box, but they’ve suffered busi- that management decisions be science-based. Under his stewardship challenging ness-wise, as owners of Blue Ribbon issues have been addressed and resolved in the park, in the arena of public Flies in West Yellowstone. Several people opinion, and in the courtroom.”

Summer 2001 19 NEWS notes

The Dot Island Bear & Publications Available On May 26, park rangers at the West If you would like a copy of the three- Entrance received a report from the volume bison EIS, the summary, or the Edgerton family of West Yellowstone CD-ROM, please contact Becky Anthony that they had observed a small grizzly at (307) 344-2223. bear on the shore of Dot Island. Park staff Copies of the proceedings from the investigated the island on May 29 and fifth biennial scientific conference, “Ex- observed fresh yearling grizzly tracks otic Organisms in Greater Yellowstone: along the island’s perimeter as well as an Native Biodiversity Under Seige,” are old set of adult-size tracks and some available in the Yellowstone Research adult-size scats, indicating that an adult Library and Archives, located in the base- female had probably been there with the ment of the Albright Visitor Center, and yearling at one time. in various university libraries. The pro- On May 30, a scent-lure station with ceedings were published in the Western two remote cameras was set up to deter- North American Naturalist volume 61(3), mine if an adult bear was still on the July 2001. island. More fresh yearling tracks were observed on the beach, but there was no Volcano Observatory Established fresh sign of an adult bear. By June 1, The Dot Island bear. Photo courtesy of there were no pictures and no fresh tracks the Edgerton family. To strengthen the long-term monitor- of the adult, just fresh yearling grizzly ing of volcanic and earthquake unrest in tracks around the island’s perimeter again. the Yellowstone region, the U.S. Geo- A trap was transported to the island and Bison Symposium logical Survey, Yellowstone National baited. By the following morning the Park, and the University of Utah have yearling had been captured. The island A special symposium titled “Conser- entered into an agreement to establish the was thoroughly searched for the adult vation Management of Bison in Northern Yellowstone Volcano Observatory bear or her remains. Although numerous Landscapes: Advances in Ecology and (YVO). This agreement provides for im- adult-size scats and day-beds were found, Epidemiology” was held as part of this proved collaborative study and monitor- the mother bear was obviously gone. Be- year’s Wildlife Society meetings, held ing of active geologic processes and haz- cause the grizzly is a threatened species September 24Ð29 in Reno, Nevada. The ards of the Yellowstone volcanic field and the yearling’s chances of survival on organizers were Peter J.P. Gogan and and caldera, site of the largest and most the island were nil, park staff relocated Edward M. Olexa, both of the USGS diverse collection of natural hot springs, the bear to the mainland. Northern Rocky Mountain Science Cen- mud pots, and steam vents in the world. The bears had been grazing graminoids, ter; Francois Messier, University of YVO operations will be based from ripping open logs for insects, digging Saskatchewan; Mietek Kolipinski and existing facilities at the USGS, the Uni- truffles, and eating cow-parsnip on the John A. Mack, both of the National Park versity of Utah, and Yellowstone. The island. A den was also found, indicating Service. Sponsors were the USGS, the new observatory is modeled after other that the bears had probably come across NPS, and TWS International Wildlife USGS volcano observatories in Hawaii, on the ice in mid- to late December and Management Working Group. Alaska, California, and the Pacific North- denned for the winter. After emerging Topics included: west. The observatories employ a variety from the den, probably just shortly before ¥ Yellowstone bison distribution and of ground-based instruments and satellite or after the ice had gone out (May 14), the abundance in the early historical period; data to monitor active and restless volca- bears had remained on the island eating ¥ The impacts of management actions on noes, and conduct a variety of studies to what little vegetation was available. As the demographics of Yellowstone bison; understand their eruptive and seismic his- food became scarce, the adult female ¥ Epidemiology of brucellosis in bison tories and potential hazards. Together, probably swam back to the mainland. in the Greater Yellowstone Area; the five observatories monitor 43 of the The yearling may have been afraid to ¥ Adaptive risk management for bison 70 or so potentially hazardous volcanoes make the 1.5-mile swim, and so was conservation in Yellowstone; in the U.S. They are operated under the abandoned by its mother. An adult fe- ¥ Bison habitat selection at the land- auspices of the USGS Volcano Hazards male grizzly accompanied by one year- scape level in Yellowstone; and Program. ling was observed on the mainland west ¥ Bison, elk, vegetation, and climate— The Yellowstone area encompasses the of Dot Island a few days prior to the interactions and dynamics on the Yel- largest active magmatic system in North capture operation. lowstone landscape. America. The spectacular geysers, boil-

20 Yellowstone Science NEWS¬es ing hot springs, and mud pots that have tent with the park’s natural, cultural, sce- and responsibilities, and to solicit and made Yellowstone famous owe their ex- nic, and aesthetic values; safety consider- document ideas and proposals from the istence to volcanic activity affecting the ations; or management objectives. Ac- cooperating agencies for the alternative region during the past two million years. cording to the ROD, the decision to phase to be analyzed in the SEIS document. Information is available online at: out most snowmobile use by the winter of Meetings with the cooperators will con- ¥ http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/yvo/ 2003Ð2004 in favor of multi-passenger tinue throughout the process. ¥ www.nps.gov/yell/ snowcoaches best meets the legal man- ¥ www.seis.utah.edu/yvo dates and protects park resources while NPS Launches Review of Benefits- ¥ www.mines.utah.edu/~rbsmith/ offering winter visitors a range of experi- Sharing Agreements RESEARCH/UUGPS.html ences. The phase-in period would help mitigate economic impacts to surround- An environmental assessment (EA) has Parks to Prepare Supplemental EIS ing communities. begun regarding the potential impacts of for Winter Use On February 16, 2001, the Interna- implementing “benefits-sharing agree- tional Snowmobile Manufacturers Asso- ments.” Benefits-sharing usually refers The controversy over winter use in ciation and other organizations filed a to agreements between researchers and Yellowstone and Grand Teton national lawsuit stating that the decision to ban their institutions or companies and the parks and the John D. Rockefeller, Jr., snowmobiles was “arbitrary and capri- National Park Service that return benefits Memorial Parkway continues. On Janu- cious” as well as being “politically moti- to parks when the results of research lead ary 22, 2001, following a rigorous effort vated.” They also claimed that the NPS to the development of commercially valu- to complete the Final Environmental “disregarded and misinterpreted critical able applications. The NPS currently fa- Impact Statement (FEIS) and a Record of facts and science.” The lawsuit asks that cilitates research in the parks, but if an Decision (ROD), a final rule was pub- the decision to close the park units to approved research project results in a lished and became effective April 22, snowmobiles, as reflected in the FEIS, valuable discovery, no direct benefits are 2001. The rule required the National Park ROD, and the final rule, be set aside. returned to the parks. If implemented, Service (NPS) to implement portions of A settlement agreement between the benefits-sharing would only apply to re- the ROD for winter use in the three park Department of the Interior, Department search results from projects permitted areas. It provides for interim actions to be of Justice, and the plaintiffs was reached under NPS research permit regulations implemented to reduce the impacts of on June 29, 2001, in which the NPS is (36 CFR 1.6 and 2.5). Additional regula- snowmobile use during the 2002Ð2003 required to prepare a Supplemental Envi- tions prohibit harvesting or commercial winter use season and, effective the end ronmental Impact Statement (SEIS) by use of park resources; thus, benefits-shar- of the 2002Ð2003 winter use season, al- January 21, 2002. By March 15, 2002, the ing agreements would not permit these lows for oversnow motorized recreation NPS will make available printed copies activities. access by NPS-managed snowcoach only, of the Draft SEIS and will issue proposed Additional information about this ef- with limited exceptions for snowmobile rules, if applicable. A 60-day comment fort is available online at: www.nature. access to other public and private lands period on the Draft SEIS will commence nps.gov/benefitssharing. You may con- adjacent to or within Grand Teton Na- on March 15, 2002. The NPS will issue a tact the team at [email protected] or tional Park. final SEIS on or before October 15, 2002. at NPS Benefits-Sharing Team, P.O. Box The ROD followed many years of A ROD will be issued and a final regula- 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY study to determine what kind of winter tion promulgated, if applicable, on or 82190. activities are appropriate for the three before November 15, 2002. Should the parks. Studies done for the EIS showed outcome of the process be a new decision Register for the Sixth Biennial that snowmobile use in the three parks so and final rule, the final rule would be in Scientific Conference on the GYE adversely affects air quality, wildlife, effect on December 15, 2002. natural soundscapes, and the enjoyment Under the terms of the settlement agree- For more information on the confer- of other visitors that park resources and ment, the NPS will act as lead agency to ence, “Yellowstone Lake: Hotbed of values are impaired. That is contrary to prepare the SEIS. The states of Idaho, Chaos or Reservoir of Resilience?”, con- the mandate of the NPS Organic Act that Montana, and Wyoming; Teton and Park tact Kevin Schneider at (307) 344-2233 parks be left “unimpaired for the enjoy- counties, Wyoming; Fremont County, or [email protected]. For regis- ment of future generations.” Executive Idaho; Park and Gallatin counties, Mon- tration only, contact Tami Whittlesey in Orders issued by Presidents Nixon and tana; and the U.S. Forest Service and U.S. the AmFac Reservations Department at Carter and the Service’s own regulations Environmental Protection Agency are (307) 344-5518 or tami@travelyellow- on snowmobile use also prohibit it in cooperating agencies in the process. Re- stone.com. Conference information is also national parks where it disturbs wildlife, cently, the NPS and cooperating agencies available at www.nps.gov/yell/technical/ damages park resources, or is inconsis- met to clarify the SEIS schedule, roles, conference.htm.

Summer 2001 21