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Behind the Scenes

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tion (and for seeing the same Tallinn cafe from OUR READERS many different angles). In Tallinn, warmest Many thanks to the travellers who used thanks to Priit and Beatrice for excellent chats the last edition and wrote to us with helpful and food, Geli for her usual fine apartment as- hints, useful advice and interesting sistance, Elina and Triin at Chado for their tips, anecdotes: and especially to Estonia’s finest tea-meister, Ricardo A Ross, Jeroen Aalderink, Sophie Beck- Steve Kokker. with, Suzannah Conway, Nora Laufer, Yvan Lou, Christopher Mcdonald, Desi Mier, Nathan Pan, Mark Baker Alexandra Reese, Markus Schill, Nick Sweat- I met many helpful people all along the way in man, Bas Van Opdorp, Dom Van Abbe, Pamela researching the countries for this guide and Wade, Sarah and Rob Waters, Emma White their names would be too numerous to mention. I’ve lived in Prague for two decades now and a very special thanks to my good friends here. In AUTHOR THANKS Slovenia, the staff of the Slovenia Tourist Board deserve special mention. Finally, a nod to Co- Tom Masters ordinating Author Tom Masters for putting this An enormous debt of thanks to all my hard- enormous guide together is definitely in order. working fellow authors on this book, and the teams in London and Melbourne who commis- Greg Bloom sioned, edited and oversaw the project. Special Pop was my wingman again, soaking up vodka thanks in Albania to Ardi Pulaj, Catherine shots and slogging around St Petersburg on trip Bohne, Tedi Sina and Bledi Strakosha; in Bel- one of three. Spacibo dad! A big spacibo to Lucy rus to my friend Zhenya Artemyev; in for joining on trip number three! Old Kyiv friends to Hekuran Avdyli and the folks at Libertas in Jake Rudnitsky and Tim O’Brien helped me out Pristina; and in Moldova to Kostya Derenyov big-time Moscow. Thanks to Mike Sito for letting and Marina Waters in Chisinau and Lena Lozin- me help the Pigs. Thanks to Peter and the gang sky in Tiraspol. in Piter; Kaz and (remotely) Aaron in Moscow, and the Petersburg ultimate frisbee crew. Carolyn Bain Much love and thanks go to Graham Harris and Chris Deliso Kate Johns for pre-Estonia fun and games, and As always a number of kind and helpful Mac- to Brandon Presser for Nordic-Baltic inspira- edonians (and other folks too) provided good 997 BEHIND THE SCENES - -

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hvala

Kylie Kylie Hoji, for being being for Hoji, slivovice Joe Bindloss, Nagyon szépen As always, I’d like to to like I’d always, As Obrigada, lies Mertens, Darren O’Connell, DiannePaton, Schall Trent Rebecca Ker Skinner, meiner, rianne Navin Southway, Sushil, Walker Gerard Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Xavier Di Toro, Alex James Leung, Leversha Cover Research McLaughlin Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Laura Ryan Crawford, Evans, Larissa Samantha Frost, Forge, Chris Genesys India, Girdler, Jouve India, Andi AnneJones,

mama, for your home cooking and and cooking home your for mama, Elin

Janet Sasha recommendations – this book wouldn’t be be wouldn’t book this – recommendations to go thanks Special you. without same the Rothschild, with love and gratitude. with love Rothschild, Anna Kaminski en for Katie least not thank, to people Many and the rest Tom this task, me with trusting friends and my team, Europe the Eastern of A who helped me along the way. and family and Gintaras to thank you big particularly Lithuanian adopted my to in Kaunas, Viktor Ni are), who you know in Nida (you parents Vilnius, in Aleksandra and Ben Simonas, kas, all-nighter, the Palanga for Jacinta and Tomas Dooling. and Rasa Anja Mutić Hvala, laughter. contagious huge A after. and during before, there endless me gave who in friends my to Age Hostel, and Jan Beran and Mišo Marić Marić Mišo and Beran Jan and Hostel, Age random a wonderfully such for my ever As in Mostar. evening brandy) (plum inspiring endlessly my to go thanks greatest who, parents unbeatable my notably family, idea had the crazy ago, decades four nearly place. in the first Bosnia driving me to of Fallon Steve Moran Nagy Ildikó and Szirti Bea to Thanks Lengyel Péter suggestions. their helpful for follow to wine roads me the correct showed the birds where Gorman and Gerard again I am indebted on the road hospitality For are. Cseh András (Budapest), Bruckner Regina to and Shan (Kecskemét) Fábián Zsuzsi (Eger), (Budapest). dor Madachy köszönöm mindenkinek! Michael partner to this of share my dedicate - - - - Katherine Marsh Jane Hart Valentina Valentina Assisting Editors Austin, Kate HelenKiely, Kellie Koehne, Langdon, Anne Mason, Joanne Newell, Lorna Monique Parkes, Sam Perrin, Trafford Coordinating Editor Berglund Coordinating Cartog­ rapher Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Managing Editors Angela Baskett, Tinson Managing Cartographers Adrian Anthony Persoglia, Phelan, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer - - -

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to my Ukrainian parents-in- Ukrainian my to dyakuju by the following: by Commissioning Editors Katie Monie Hall, Lucy Helena Smith O’Connell, Planet also publishes phrase publishes also Planet regions. these for books com This guidebook was Planet’s in Lonely missioned and produced office, London Western Europe, Mediterra Europe, Western Europe, , nean Scan Europe, Southeastern and Europe Europe dinavian Lonely on a Shoestring. This 12th edition of Lonely Lonely This 12th edition of Europe Eastern Planet’s Lonely of guidebook is part Other series. Europe Planet’s include in this series titles THIS BOOK MarkElliott Ner Semir, Vlaren, Snezhan, to thanks Many Narmina and Branislav, Sanila, Žika, men, Home and New Travellers at folks the helpful ca Ćeranić and Matthew Lane. Also, I owe a I owe Also, Lane. and Matthew Ćeranić ca Hed and Lorraine James to gratitude of debt their for Tyler and Kerri Tim Benzie derman, the journey. and after before contributions Peter Dragicevich people who all the wonderful to thanks Many Ivica especially helped me in , Emma Delf, Jack and Wright Hayley Erdelja, Dani Petranović, Krstinja Heywood, and Ben with seats that travel in the hours of daylight daylight of hours the in travel that seats with to least not but last and idea; good a be might Ukraine to me introducing for Tanya, wife my place. first the in for his invaluable support in Lviv; Mykola and and Mykola Lviv; in support invaluable his for the all Odesa; in Viktor Simferopol; in Olya Yalta Lviv, in offices tourist at staff dedicated Ukrainian Lviv; in Ostap Bakhchysaray; and trains fast that realising finally for Railways A huge huge A insights their and Kyiv in support their for law Also Ukraine. in developments latest the into Visitlviv.net of Dukh Yarema to thanks many ing Commissioning Editor Katie O’Connell, O’Connell, Katie Editor ing Commissioning and the Masters Tom Author Coordinating teams. and production mapmaking Marc Di Duca Pece, Patrice, Stevche, Emilija, Biljana, Dane, Dane, Biljana, Emilija, Stevche, Patrice, Pece, who you know – you Julija and Ace Stojko, been have book couldn’t this Of course, are! patient my of without the work completed includ colleagues, Planet Lonely and devoted tips, advice and assistance in the course of of course in the assistance and advice tips, mention can them I Among research. my

- rakija medeni najbolje, to… the NS Kiosk the NS Kiosk to… ! for the wonderful insight the wonderful for Hydrology and Earth System d’akujem mnogo hvala na , 11, 1633–44. 11, , /research jaunt, Dragana Eremić, the Eremić, Dragana jaunt, /research churches: churches: country. big-at-heart little-in-size, your into ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger Map of World Classification’, Sciences building, Parliament photograph: Cover Tsafos/Getty George Hungary, Budapest, Images. of , I’d like to offer clinks of the of clinks offer to like I’d Serbia, of and glass Zoran Gora, Mokra of Toma Niš, of Gagi Crew, all the wolves, and snakes us from saving for our during met we oddballs helpful mesec and Pappa the Lučić clan, family, Ljesević Dušan, to and as ever, Mumma, najslađi čovek u svemiru Luke Waterson adven Podhradie Spišské the for Josef To in the High Michaela girls; to the HRL to ture; to team; 2013 Košice the entire to Tatras; Peter to the east; the ride round Michal for ride round ‘authentic’ the for and Brano wine; to and his great Giovanni to Bratislava; and Raj; in Slovenský his hospitality Majo for wooden who opened up the old women the to - - to my Polish Polish my to Dziękuję

so in addition to thanking the population in addition to so Tamara ShewardTamara friends, a zillion make is to here research To their random and useful assistance, particu assistance, and useful their random music tips. for Rakita larly Magda advice on new places of interest. Thanks also also Thanks interest. of places on new advice for Twitter of inhabitants generous the to mother country. I’m also grateful to the mem the to grateful also I’m country. mother Club in Kraków, Language the English of bers and friendly conversation who supplied both friends – Ewa, Magda and Andrzej – for their – for Andrzej and Magda friends – Ewa, their regarding and insights companionship Poland’s tourist offices, and the national offices, tourist Poland’s PKP. company train Tim Richards of the staff to I’m indebted always, As letting me rediscover the black poodle twenty the black poodle twenty me rediscover letting over. times a great one. Thanks also to Joanne and my and my Joanne to also Thanks one. a great at Lonely and editors co-authors clever for Carolyn big shout out to and a Planet, Agnese Kleina, Live Rīga, TAVA and everyone and everyone TAVA Rīga, Live Kleina, Agnese in making this edition that had a hand else to Aleksis Karlsons for your hospitality and hospitality your for Karlsons Aleksis to Jenzis, Jānis to thanks Special friendship. Brandon Presser and foremost first goes thank you massive A team at HTZ. Finally, to the inspiring memory memory inspiring the to Finally, HTZ. at team still. me with travels who father my of Lidija in Zagreb and Mila in Split, as well as the the as well as Split, in Mila and Zagreb in Lidija

BEHIND THE SCENES 998 999 travel seasons 46 bathrooms 969 travel to/from 47, 76-7 Bay of 14, 572-8, 14 travel within 77-8 beaches 24 visas 76 bears 691 weather 46 beer, see also breweries Albena 192 Albania 74 amber 506 Belarus 101 Andrić, Ivo 137 Bulgaria 152 Apollonia 61 Croatia 266 Arbanasi 180 Czech Republic 29, 274, 324, 332 27 Estonia 373 art nouveau 18, 461 Kosovo 447 A Bulgaria 202 Lithuania 480, 511 accommodation 958-60, see also Serbia 824 Macedonia 516, 541 individual locations Slovenia 907 Poland 598, 670 activities 960-1, see also individual area codes 968 Romania 733 locations, birdwatching, canoeing, art Slovenia 908 cycling, diving, kayaking, rafting, Albania 73-4 Ukraine 950-1 skiing, yachting Bulgaria 202 Belá Tatras 854-5 diving 26 Croatia 265 Belarus 40, 79-106, bungee jumping 26, 473, 960 81 Czech Republic 330-1 accommodation 79, 102 canyoning 960 Hungary 429-30 activities 102 ice skating 348 Moldova 564-5 arts 101 jet-skiing 193 Poland 669 budgeting 79 rock climbing 268, 893 Romania 731 business hours 102 sailing 961 Russia 791 climate 79 skydiving 960 Slovenia 908 drinking 80, 101-2 air travel 971-3 Ukraine 950 embassies & consulates 102 Albania 40, 46-78, 48 art galleries, see museums & environment 101 accommodation 46, 74-5 galleries exchange rates 80 activities 75 art nouveau 18, 461 food 79, 80, 101-2 arts 73-4 arts, see individual countries, highlights 81 budgeting 46 architecture, art, cinema, dance, history 99-100 business hours 75 literature, music, theatre holidays 103 climate 46 ATMs 965 insurance 103 drinking 74 Auschwitz-Birkenau 627 internet access 103 economy 70 internet resources 80 embassies & consulates 75 B itineraries 80 environment 74 Baderishka Polyana 167 language 83, 103 exchange rates 47 Bakhchysaray 944-6 money 80, 103 food 46, 47, 74, 75 Balatonfüred 407-8 people 100-1 highlights 48 Balchik 191-2 planning 79-80 history 70-3 ballet 791 politics 98-9 holidays 76 Banat 705-9 postal services 103 internet access 75 Banja Luka 139-41 telephone services 103-4 internet resources 47 Banská Bystrica 846 travel seasons 79 itineraries 47 Banská Štiavnica 846-7 travel to/from 80, 105, 973 money 47, 75 Bansko 167-8 travel within 105-6 people 73 banyas, bathhouses & saunas 17, 961 visas 104-5 planning 46-7 Estonia 348 weather 79 politics 70 Hungary 384, 385, 13 802-13, postal services 75-6 804-5 Russia 17, 751, 770, 789, 17 accommodation 807-8 telephone services 76 Bar 580-1 drinking 809-10 tourist information 76 Bardejov 866-7 entertainment 810-11 Bardejovské Kúpele 867 food 808-9 Bârsana 713 history 802 000 Map pages bathhouses, see banyas, bathhouses information 812 000 Photo pages & saunas itineraries 802 1000 Belgrade continued language 147 entertainment 688 shopping 812 money 108, 148 food 687 sights 802-3, 806-7 people 146 information 688-9 tours 807 planning 107-8 shopping 688 travel to/from 812-13 politics 143 sights 679, 682-3, 686 travel within 813 postal services 148 travel to/from 689-90 Belogradchik 199-200 safety 148 travel within 690 Bendery 561-2 telephone services 148 Buda Hills 384 INDEX INDEX Berat 17, 61-3, 17 travel seasons 107 Budapest 13, 379-98, 381, 382-3, bicycle travel, see cycling travel to/from 108, 149 386-7, 13 Biertan 699 travel within 149-50 accommodation 389-91 B BiH, see Bosnia & Hercegovina visas 149 activities 380-1, 383-5 Bihać 141-2 weather 107 drinking 393 biking, see cycling Botiza 713 entertainment 393-4 birdwatching 960 Bovec 895-6 & events 389 Bulgaria 186, 203, 204 Boyana 163-4 food 391-3 Hungary 408, 432 brandy history 380 Macedonia 536, 537 Albania 47 information 395-6 Montenegro 584 Bosnia & Hercegovina 108 shopping 395 Romania 723, 732 Bulgaria 203-4 sights 380-1, 383-5 Biskupin 648 Croatia 266 tours 389 Bitola 533-4 Estonia 373 travel to/from 396, 397 Bjelašnica 123 Macedonia 516, 541 travel within 396-8 Bjelila 575 Moldova 565 budgeting 22, see also individual Black Lake 589 Montenegro 570 countries Black Sea 14, 187-98, 721-9, 721 Romania 678, 733 Budva 578-9 Blagaj 132 Serbia 800, 824 Bulgakov, Mikhail 750 Blansko 318 Slovakia 828, 869 Bulgaria 41, 151-208, 153 Bled 888-92, 890 Slovenia 874, 908 accommodation 151, 204 activities 204 Bled Island 888, 6 Braşov 694-8, 696 boat travel 972, 973, see also canoe- Bratislava 830-9, 832-3 arts 201-2 ing, kayaking, sailing, yachting accommodation 833-5 budgeting 151 Bobotov Kuk 589 activities 831, 833 business hours 204-5 Bohemia 304-16 drinking 836 climate 151 Bohinj 892-4 entertainment 836-7 drinking 152, 203-4 books, see literature festivals & events 833 embassies & consulates 205 Bosnia & Hercegovina 40, 107-50, food 835-6 environment 202-3 109, 144 history 830 exchange rates 152 accommodation 107, 147 information 837 food 151, 152, 203-4, 205 activities 147-8 itineraries 830 highlights 153 arts 146-7 shopping 837 history 200-1 budgeting 107 sights 830-1, 835 holidays 206 business hours 148 tours 833 internet access 205 climate 107 travel to/from 837-8 internet resources 152 drinking 108 travel within 838-9 itineraries 152 environment 147 Bratislava Forest Park 831 legal matters 205 exchange rates 108 Brest 92-6, 93 money 152, 205-6 food 107, 108, 148 breweries, see also beer people 201 highlights 109 Budweiser Budvar Brewery 310 planning 151-2 history 143-6 Chişinău Brewery 549 safety 206 holidays 148 Chodovar Brewery 308 telephone services 206 internet access 148 Pilsner Urquell Brewery 308 travel seasons 151 internet resources 108 bridge diving 26 travel to/from 152, 206-7 itineraries 108 Brno 316-20 travel within 207-8 Bucegi Mountains 695 visas 206 Bucharest 679-90, 680-1, 684-5 weather 151 Map pages 000 accommodation 686-7 bungee jumping 26, 473, 960 000 Photo pages drinking 687-8 Burgas 194-6 1001 bus travel 972, 973-4 Chişinău 548-56, 550-1 Court Cathedral of St Nicholas business hours 961, see also accommodation 549 (Veliky Novogord) 760 individual countries drinking 553 Cathedral (Rīga) 457 Butrint 68 entertainment 553-4 Dominican Cathedral (Lviv) 927 Byala 193 food 551-3 Kaliningrad Cathedral 779, 781 information 554 Kazan Cathedral (St Petersburg) 768 itineraries 548 C Latin Cathedral (Lviv) 927, canoeing 960, see also kayaking shopping 554 13 SS Peter & Paul Cathedral (St INDEX Czech Republic 313 sights 548-9 Petersburg) 767-8 Estonia 362-3, 368 travel to/from 554-5 St Basil’s Cathedral (Moscow) Hungary 432 travel within 555-6 746, 12 B-C Latvia 473 Chodová Planá 308 St Isaac’s Cathedral Lithuania 498 Chornobyl 100, 920, 951-2 (St Petersburg) 765 Poland 666, 671-2 Christo Javacheff 203 St Jacob’s Cathedral (Rīga) 458 Slovenia 892, 895 Chufut-Kale 945 St John’s Cathedral (Warsaw) 602 canyoning 960 churches & cathedrals St Mark’s Cathedral (Korčula Cape Kolka 470-1 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Island) 253 car travel 972, 974-5 (Tallinn) 344 St Martin’s Cathedral (Bratislava) Carpathian Mountains 635-40, 931 Annunciation Cathedral (Moscow) 830 , fortresses & palaces 24 746 St Moritz Cathedral (Olomouc) 321 Bojnice 846 Archangel Cathedral (Moscow) 743 St Nicholas’ Cathedral (Braşov) 695 Armenian Cathedral (Lviv) 927-8 Bran Castle 698, 16 St Nicholas Orthodox Maritime Cathedral (Liepāja) 472 Bratislava Castle 830 Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 743 St Peter & Paul Cathedral (Kaunas) Brest Fortress 92, 94 of St George (Prague) 277 498 Český Krumlov Castle 313 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour St Sophia’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 915 Diocletian’s Palace 242-5 (Moscow) 750 St Tryphon’s Cathedral (Kotor) 575 Gradačac 141 Cathedral of Christ’s Resurrection St Vitus Cathedral (Prague) 276 Hluboká Chateau 313 () 585 St Volodymyr’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 920 Kalemegdan Citadel 802 Cathedral of SS & St Wenceslas Cathedral (Olomouc) Kamyanets-Podilsky Fortress John the Evangelist (Toruń) 659 321 932-3 Cathedral of SS Peter & Paul Sveta Nedelya Cathedral (Sofia) 155 Königsberg 778 (Brno) 316 Sveta Sofija Cathedral (Ohrid) 530 Ljubljana Castle 876 Cathedral of SS Peter & Paul Sveti Nikola Bolnički (Ohrid) 530 Peter & Paul Fortress 765, 767-8 (Kamyanets-Podilsky) 933 Vác Cathedral 400 Petrodvorets 777 Cathedral of St Barbara (Kutná Vilnius Cathedral 482 Prague Castle 276-7, Hora) 303 282 Wawel Cathedral (Kraków) 616 Predjama Castle 898 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split) 243 Čičmany 842 Rundāle Palace 470 Cathedral of St Elizabeth (Košice) cinema Fortress 811 863 Albania 73 Spiš Castle 857 Cathedral of St George (Piran) 901 Bosnia & Hercegovina 147 Tešanj 141 Cathedral of St James the Elder Czech Republic 331 Trakai Castle 497 (Olsztyn) 664-5 Poland 669 Tsarevets Fortress 177 Cathedral of St John the Baptist Romania 732 Tsarskoe Selo 777 (Wrocław) 641 Russia 790 Valtice Chateau 326 Cathedral of St Lovro (Trogir) Slovenia 908 Visegrád Citadel 401, 20 249-50 Ukraine 949 Vranduk 141 Cathedral of St Sophia (Veliky Cişmigiu Garden 683 Novogord) 760 Wawel Castle 616 City Park (Budapest) 385 Cathedral of the Assumption cathedrals, see churches & climate 22, see also individual (Koper) 899 cathedrals countries Cathedral of the Assumption (Krk Ceauşescu, Nicolea 706 clubbing 27 cell phones 968 Town) 238 Cluj-Napoca 702-5, 704 Cēsis 474 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary coffee 203 České Budějovice 310-12 (Zagreb) 211 Cojuşna 556 Český Krumlov 20, 312-16, 314, 20 Cathedral of the Assumption of the communism 25 Cetinje 582-3 Virgin () 257 Albania 72 Charles Bridge 283, 285, 7 Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo Bulgaria 201 children, travel with 961-2 (Ohrid) 529-30, 18 Czech Republic 329 1002 communism continued Romania 691 Russia 795 Hungary 428 Russia 751, 769-70, 783 Slovakia 871 Poland 667 Slovakia 831, 833, 850, 854 Ukraine 954 Romania 730 Slovenia 892, 894, 895 diving 960 Russia 788-9 Czech Republic 41, 273-336, 275 Croatia 227, 230, 233, 255, 258, 267 Slovakia 868 accommodation 273, 332 Montenegro 581 Comrat 561 arts 330-1 Poland 671-2 Constanţa 726-7 budgeting 274 Dobrota 574 INDEX INDEX consulates 962-3, see also individual business hours 332 Dom Sovetov 778 countries climate 273 Dracula 694, 729-30 corruption 966-7 drinking 274, 331-2 drinks 25, see also beer, brandy, C-E credit cards 965 economy 330 coffee, vodka, wine Cres 239 embassies & consulates 332-3 driving, see car travel Cricova 556 environment 331 driving licences 974 Crimea 940-6 exchange rates 274 drugs 967 Crişana 705-9 food 273, 274, 331-2, 333 Drvengrad 821 Croatia 41, 209-72, 267-8, 212-13, highlights 275 Drymades 65 18 history 328-30 Dubrovnik 15, 256-62, 258-9, 15 accommodation 209, 267 holidays 333 accommodation 259-60 arts 264-5 internet access 333 activities 258-9 budgeting 210 internet resources 274 drinking 261 business hours 268 itineraries 274 entertainment 261 climate 209 money 274, 333 festivals & events 259 drinking 210, 266-7 people 330 food 260-1 economy 263 planning 273-4 history 256 embassies & consulates 268 politics 330 information 261 environment 265-6 postal services 333 sights 256-8 exchange rates 210 telephone services 334 tours 259 food 209, 210, 266-7, 268 tourist information 334 travel to/from 261-2 highlights 212 travel seasons 273 travel within 262 history 263-4 travel to/from 274, 334-5 Dudutki 91 holidays 269 travel within 335-6 Dunajec Gorge 639 internet resources 210 visas 334 Durrës 60-1 itineraries 210 weather 273 money 210, 268-9 Częstochowa 646 people 264 E planning 209-10 economy, see individual countries politics 262-3, 264 D Eger 421-4, 422 Dalmatia 18, 239-62 telephone services 269 Elbląg 663-4 dance 791 tourist information 269 electricity 962 dangers, see safety travel seasons 209 embassies 962-3, see also individual countries travel to/from 210, 270 River 398-403, 721-6, 722 Emona 193 travel within 270-2 Darłowo 662 environment, see individual countries visas 269-70 Debrecen 425-7 weather 209 Demir Kapija Gorge 537 Estonia 41, 337-76, 339 Despotovac 811 accommodation 337, 373 Curonian Spit 21, 507-9, 21 Dhërmi 65 activities 373-4 cycling 960, 973 digital photography 966 budgeting 338 Bulgaria 204 Dihovo 534-5 business hours 374 Croatia 227, 230, 233, 255, 267 disabilities, travellers with 969 climate 337 Hungary 432 Albania 76 drinking 338, 373 Latvia 473 Bosnia & Hercegovina 148 economy 372 Lithuania 21, 508-9 Bulgaria 206 embassies & consulates 374 Montenegro 585, 588 Croatia 269 environment 372 Poland 640, 646, 671 Czech Republic 334 exchange rates 338 Hungary 434 festivals & events 374 Macedonia 542 food 337, 338, 373, 374 000 Map pages Poland 674 highlights 339 000 Photo pages Romania 736 history 370-2 1003 internet access 374 Tirana International Film Grūtas Park 499 internet resources 338 32, 52 Guča 21 itineraries 338 Vitranc Cup 28 Gyógy-tó 410 money 338, 374, 375 Východná 31 Győr 403-5 people 372 films, see cinema planning 337-8 firewater, see brandy postal services 375 Fish Village 781 H health 963-4 public holidays 375 fishing 537 Hel 662 INDEX telephone services 375 food 25, see also individual locations Heraclea Lyncestis 534 travel seasons 337 football 757, 776 Herăstrău Park 686 travel to/from 338, 375 fortresses, see castles, fortresses Herceg Novi 572-4 E-H travel within 375-6 & palaces Hercegovina 123-34, see also Bosnia visas 375 Frombork 664 & Hercegovina weather 337 Fruška Gora 817 Hermitage 761, 764, 765, 11 Esztergom 402-3 Hervatov 867 events, see festivals & events G Hévíz 410 exchange rates, see individual Gadimë Cave 441 countries High Tatras 12, 848-54, 849, Gagauzia 561 , EXIT Festival 30, 814 2 12 Galičnik 527 hiking 25, 960-1 extreme sports 26 galleries, see museums & galleries Albania 58, 63, 75 gay & lesbian travellers 963 Bosnia & Hercegovina 148 F Albania 75 Bulgaria 164, 174, 179, 204 festivals & events 28-32, see also Belarus 102-3 Croatia 233, 268 individual locations Bosnia & Hercegovina 148 Czech Republic 307 Baltica International Folklore Bulgaria 205 Hungary 408, 415, 432 Festival 30 Croatia 222, 268 Latvia 473 Bažant Pohoda 30, 840 Czech Republic 296, 333 Montenegro 584, 585, 588, 590 Budapest Spring Festival 28, 389 Estonia 374 Poland 638, 640, 646, 671 Czech Beer Festival 29 Hungary 433 Romania 691 Don Cento Jazz Festival 31 Moldova 566 safety 691 Dragačevo Trumpet Assembly 21, Montenegro 594 31, 818, 21 Serbia 821, 824 Poland 672 Dvořák Autumn 31 Slovakia 12, 843-4, 847, 848, 850-1, Romania 734 854, 855-6, 859-60, 870 Easter Festival of Sacred Music 29 Russia 755, 775, 794 Slovenia 888, 892, 894, 895 EXIT Festival 30, 814 Slovakia 870 Hill of Crosses 503 Guča Trumpet Festival 21, 31, Slovenia 909-10 Himara 65-6 818, 21 Ukraine 953 Hartera Festival 30, 235 history, see individual countries International Labour Day 29 Gdańsk 650-6, 652 hitching 975 International Music Festival 31 accommodation 653-4 holidays 966, see also individual countries Ivana Kupala 30 drinking 655 Homeland War (Croatia) 263-4 Jewish Culture Festival 30, 623 entertainment 655 horseback riding 432, 961 Karlovy Vary International Film festivals & events 653 Festival 30, 305 food 654-5 Hrodna 91 Küstendorf Film & Music Festi- information 655 Humor 719 val 28 sights 651-3 Hungary 41, 377-436, 379 Lviv Coffee Festival 31 travel to/from 655-6 accommodation 377, 431 Medieval Festival of the Arts 30 travel within 656 activities 432 Moldova Wine Festival 32 Gdynia 657 arts 429-30 Music Biennale Zagreb 29, 218 Gerlachovský štít 850 budgeting 378 Ohrid Summer Festival 30, 530 Gierłoż 666 business hours 432 Sarajevo Film Festival 30-1, 116 Giżycko 666 climate 377 Sarajevo International Jazz Festival Gjirokastra 69-70 drinking 378, 430-1 32, 116 Gniezno 648 embassies & consulates 432 Ski-Jumping World Cup 28-9 Golden Sands 192 environment 430 Slavyansky Bazaar 30, 98 Gorky Park 749-50 exchange rates 378 St John’s Eve 30 Grădina Publică Ştefan cel Mare şi food 377, 378, 430-1, 433 Sziget Music Festival 31, 389 Sfînt 548 highlights 379 Terraneo Festival 31 Great Masurian Lakes 666 history 427-8 1004 Hungary continued Vilnius 487 Kolkasrags 470-1 holidays 433 Warsaw 606 Kołobrzeg 662 internet access 433 Julian Alps 887-97 Kolomyya 931 internet resources 378 Juodkrantė 508 Konopiště 301 itineraries 378 Jūrmala 469-70 Kopaonik 820 language 433 Koper 899-900 media 433 Koprivshtitsa 175 K money 378, 432, 433 Korčula Island 253

INDEX INDEX Kadriorg Park 346 people 428-9 Košice 861-5, Kaliningrad 779-86, 780-1 862 planning 377-8 accommodation 783-4 Kosiv 931 postal services 433 Kosovo 41, 437-48, 439

H-K activities 783 telephone services 433 drinking 784-5 accommodation 437, 447 tourist information 434 entertainment 785 arts 446-7 travel seasons 377 food 784-5 budgeting 438 travel to/from 378, 434-5 information 785 business hours 447 travel within 435-6 sights 779, 781-3 climate 437 visas 434 travel to/from 785-6 drinking 438 weather 377 travel within 786 embassies & consulates 447 Hvar Island 250-3, 2 environment 447 Kaliningrad region 778-9, 779 Kamyanets-Podilsky 932-4 exchange rates 438 I Karlovy Vary 304-7 food 437, 438, 447 highlights 439 Iaşi 714-17, 716 Karlštejn 300-1 ice hockey 868 Kateřinská Cave 318 history 445-6 holidays 447-8 ice skating 348 Kaunas 498-504, 500 internet resources 438 Ieud 713-14 accommodation 502 itineraries 438 immigration 971 drinking 503 media 446 index sandwich 815 entertainment 503-4 money 438, 447 insurance 964, 974-5 food 502-3 people 446 internet access 964, see also indi- information 504 planning 437-8 vidual countries sights 498-9 postal services 447 internet resources 23, see also indi- travel to/from 504 vidual countries safety 448 travel within 504 Istria 226-34 telephone services 448 Kavadarci 536-7 itineraries 33-9, see also individual travel seasons 437 kayaking 960, see also canoeing countries travel to/from 438, 448 Bosnia & Hercegovina 26, 143 travel within 448 Croatia 258-9, 268 visas 448 J Estonia 348 weather 437 Jahorina 122-3 Montenegro 573, 584 Jajce 138-9 Poland 671-2 Kotor 574-7, 576 Jal 66 Serbia 824 Kozjak Stream Waterfalls 896 jet-skiing 193 Slovenia 892, 895, 896 Kozłówka 633 Jewish heritage 27, see also syna- Kazanlâk 175-7 Kraków 12, 616-29, 618-19, 13 gogues accommodation 623-4 Kecskemét 415-17, 416 Auschwitz 627 Kernavė 497-8 activities 616-17 Birkenau 627 Keszthely 409-10 drinking 625-6 concentration camps 100, 304, Kętrzyn 666 entertainment 626 510, 627, 633, 818 Kežmarok 855 festivals & events 623 festivals 30 Khatyn 92 food 624-5 Kraków 621 kiiking 363 information 627-8 Mikulov 326 Kiten 198 shopping 626-7 monuments 83, 501 Klaipėda 505-7 sights 616-17, 621-2 museums 111, 280-1, 284, 385, tours 622-3 486, 606, 621, 683, 830 Kláštorisko Chata 860 travel to/from 628-9 tours 622 Kláštorisko Gorge 860 Kobarid 896-7 Kranjska Gora 894-5 Kolašin 588-9 Kravice Waterfalls 133 Kremlin (Moscow) 743, 746 000 Map pages Koliba 123 Kolka 471 Kremlin (Veliky Novogord) 760 000 Photo pages Krk Island 238-9 1005 Krk Town 238-9 visas 477 food 882-3 Kruja 59-60 weather 449 history 875-6 Krupa na Vrbasu 141 Łazienki Park 603-4 information 885-6 Ksamil 68 Łeba 662 itineraries 876 Kuldīga 471 Lednice 326 sights 876-7, 881 Kúpelne ostrov 840 lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian tours 881 Kutná Hora 301-4, 302 travellers travel to/from 886, 887 Kyiv 915-25, 918-19 Lesnoy 787 travel within 886-7 INDEX INDEX accommodation 921-2 Levoča 856-7 Łódź 613-16 drinking 923-4 Levski, Vasil 201 Loket 307 entertainment 924 Liepāja 472 Lomnické sedlo 850 K-M food 922-3 Lipica 900 Lošinj 239 information 924 literature Lubin 629-33, 630 sights 915, 920-1 Albania 73 Lukomir 123 travel to/from 924-5 Belarus 101 Lviv 16, 925-32, 926, 16 travel within 925 Bosnia & Hercegovina 146-7 accommodation 928-9 Croatia 264-5 drinking 930-1 Czech Republic 330 entertainment 931 L Hungary 429 Ladomirová 867 food 929-30 Moldova 564 Lake Balaton 407-10 information 932 Poland 668-9 sights 926-8 Lake Bled 888-92, 890 Romania 731-2 travel to/from 932 Lake Bohinj 892-4 Russia 790-1 travel within 932 Lake Koman 59 Serbia 823 Lake Malta 648 Slovenia 907 Lake Matka 526 Ukraine 949 M Lake Morskie Oko 637-8 Lithuania 42, 479-514, 481 Macedonia 42, 515-44, 517 Lake Solina 640 accommodation 479, 511 accommodation 515, 541 Lake Tikveš 537 arts 510 activities 541 landmines 967 budgeting 480 arts 540 languages 981-97 business hours 511 budgeting 516 Lastva 574 climate 479 business hours 541 Latvia 42, 449-78, 451 drinking 480, 511 climate 515 accommodation 449, 476 economy 509 drinking 516, 541 arts 475 embassies & consulates 511-12 economy 539 budgeting 450 environment 510-11 embassies & consulates 541-2 business hours 476 exchange rates 480 environment 540-1 climate 449 food 479, 480, 511, 512 exchange rates 516 drinking 450 highlights 481 food 515, 516, 541, 542 economy 475 history 509-10 highlights 517 embassies & consulates 476 holidays 512 history 538-9 exchange rates 450 internet access 512 holidays 542 festivals & events 476 internet resources 480 internet resources 516 food 449, 450, 475, 476 itineraries 480 itineraries 516 highlights 451 money 480, 511, 512 money 516, 542 history 474-5 people 510 people 539-40 holidays 477 planning 479-80 planning 515-16 internet access 476 telephone services 512 politics 539 internet resources 450 travel seasons 479 postal services 542 itineraries 450 travel to/from 480, 512-13 safety 542 money 450, 476 travel within 513-14 telephone services 542 people 475 visas 512 tourist information 542 planning 449-50 weather 479 travel seasons 515 postal services 476-7 Ljubljana 875-87, 878-9 travel to/from 516, 542-3 telephone services 477 accommodation 881-2 travel within 543-4 travel seasons 449 drinking 883-4 visas 542 travel to/from 450, 477-8 entertainment 884-5 weather 515 travel within 478 festivals & events 881 Madara 183 1006 Madara National Historical and Mir 91-2 Monastery 591 Archaeological Reserve 183 Mljet Island 254-6 Pološki Monastery 537 Malbork 657-70 mobile phones 968 Red Monastery 855 Małopolska 616-35 Moisei 714 Rila Monastery 164-5 Mamaia 727-8 Moldavia 714-21 Savina Monastery 572 maps 964-5 Moldova 42, 545-68, 547 Snagov Monastery 694 Maramureş 709-14, 711 accommodation 545, 565-6 Sopoćani Monastery 819 Mariánské Lázně 308 arts 564-5 St George Monastery 819 INDEX INDEX Maribor 905 budgeting 546 Monastery 820 markets business hours 566 Suceviţa Monastery 720-1 Cheese Market (Peja) 444 climate 545 Sveta Bogoroditsa Monastery 180 M Christmas Market (Bratislava) 833 drinking 546, 565 Sveti Jovan Bigorski Monastery Christmas Market (Prague) 285 economy 564 526-7 Christmas markets 32 embassies & consulates 566 Sveti Naum Monastery 532 Dolac Market (Zagreb) 211 environment 565 Sveti Nikolai Monastery 180 Dorogomilovsky Market (Moscow) exchange rates 546 Sveti Pantelejmon Monastery 519 750-1 food 545, 546, 565, 566 Treskavec Monastery 535-6 European Folk Craft Market 855 highlights 547 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 742 Halės Market (Vilnius) 493 history 562-4 Uspensky Monastery 945 Izmaylovo Market (Moscow) 749 holidays 566 Visoki Dečani Monastery 444 Kalvarijų Market (Vilnius) 493 internet resources 546 Voroneţ Monastery 719-20 Knit Market (Tallinn) 353 itineraries 546 Yuriyev Monastery 760 Sakta Flower Market (Rīga) 467 money 546, 566 Zrze Monastery 536 souvenir market (Kraków) 626-7 people 564 money 22, 23, 965-6, see also indi- vidual countries souvenir market (St Petersburg) planning 545-6 776 moneychangers 965 telephone services 566-7 souvenir market (Tallinn) 353 Monkova Valley 854 travel seasons 545 Stara Čaršija (Bitola) 533 travel to/from 546, 567 Montenegro 42, 569-96, 571 Martin 842 travel within 567-8 accommodation 569, 594 Martin Brod 142 visas 567 budgeting 570 Masuria 663-6 weather 545 business hours 594 Matka 526 Moldoviţa 720 climate 569 Mazovia 613-16 monasteries drinking 570 Međed 589 Alexander Nevsky Monastery 769 economy 591-2 medical services 963 Bachkovo Monastery 174 embassies & consulates 594 Međugorje 132-3 Bârsana Monastery 713 exchange rates 570 Melnik 165-7 Basarbovo Rock Monastery 186 food 569, 570, 593, 594 Memento Park 384 Caves Monastery 915 highlights 571 Międzyzdroje 662 583 history 592-3 Mikołajki 666 Dobrun Monastery 135 holidays 595 Mikulov 325-8 Golia Monastery 714 internet resources 570 Mileştii Mici 556 Gračanica Monastery 441 itineraries 570 Milišići 123 Humor Monastery 719 money 570, 594 Minsk 82-90, 84 Ivanovo Rock Monastery 186 people 593 accommodation 85-6 Monastery 811 planning 569-70 drinking 87-8 Minorite Monastery 901 politics 591-2 entertainment 88 Moldoviţa Monastery 720 telephone services 595 food 86-7 Monastery of St John the New 717 travel seasons 569 information 89 Monastery of Sveti Nikola 537 travel to/from 570, 595-6 shopping 88-9 Morača Monastery 588 travel within 596 sights 82-4, 86 Novo Hopovo Monastery 817 weather 569 tours 85 Orheiul Vechi Monastery Complex Morača Canyon 588 travel to/from 89-90 557 Moravia 316-28 travel within 90 587-8 Morskoe 787 Pannonhalma Abbey 405 Moscow 12, 742-59, 744-5 Patriachate of Peć 444 accommodation 751-3 000 Map pages Paulite Monastery of Jasna Góra activities 751 000 Photo pages 646 drinking 755-6 1007 entertainment 756-7 Mt Triglav 19, 893, 19 Hungary 31, 389, 429 food 753-5 Mt Vodno 519 Macedonia 30, 540 history 742 Muhu 370 Moldova 564-5 information 757-8 museums & galleries 26 Poland 669 shopping 757 Andy Warhol Museum Romania 732 tours 751 (Medzilaborce) 861 Russia 31, 791 travel to/from 758-9 Beekeeping Museum (Radovljica) Serbia 21, 31, 818, 823-4, 21 889 travel within 759 Slovakia 30, 869 Belarusian State Art Museum INDEX mosques Slovenia 908 (Minsk) 82 (Belgrade) 803 Ukraine 950 Bulgakov House-Museum Carshi Mosque (Pristina) 440

(Moscow) 750 M-N Čaršija Mosque (Stolac) 133 Central Eco-Tourism Museum of N Dzhumaya Mosque (Plovdiv) 169 the Danube Delta (Tulcea) 723 Narva 357-8 Et’hem Bey Mosque (Tirana) 49-50 Chopin Museum (Warsaw) 603 national parks & reserves Fethija Mosque (Bihać) 142 Chornobyl Museum (Kyiv) 920 Aukštaitija National Park 498 Gazi-Husrevbey Mosque Cosmonautics Museum (Moscow) Belavezhskaya Pushcha National (Sarajevo) 111 749 Park 96 Haji Alibey Mosque (Travnik) 137 Csontváry Museum (Pécs) 413 Białowieża National Park 614 Hassan Jakovali Mosque (Pécs) 413 Erarta (St Petersburg) 770 Biogradska Gora National Park Isak Mosque (Bitola) 533 Europos Parkas sculpture park 496 589 Jashar Pasha Mosque (Pristina) Grigore Antipa Natural History Carpathian National Nature Park 440 Museum (Bucharest) 683 931 Karađozbeg Mosque (Mostar) 125 Helikon Palace Museum Curonian Spit National Park Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque (Keszthely) 409 507-9 (Mostar) 125 Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 487 Durmitor National Park 589-91 Many Coloured Mosque (Travnik) Hotel Viru KGB Museum (Tallinn) European Bison Reserve 614 137 346 Galičica National Park 532 Mosque Church (Pécs) 411 Museum of Beekeeping & Wine Gauja National Park 472 Muradi Mosque (Vlora) 64 Cellar () 817 Kiskunság National Park 415 Mustafa Paša Mosque (Skopje) 519 Museum of Devils (Kaunas) 499 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park Red Mosque (Berat) 62 Museum of Genocide Victims 787-8 Roznamedži Ibrahimefendi Mosque (Vilnius) 486 Lahemaa National Park 356-7 (Mostar) 125 National MK Čiurlionis Art Museum Lake Skadar National Park 583-5 Sinan Pasha Mosque (Prizren) 445 (Kaunas) 499 Llogaraja Pass National Park 64 Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque Onufri Museum (Berat) 62 Lovćen National Park 582 (Pristina) 440 Permanent Exhibition of the 1989 Malá Fatra National Park 843-6, Sultan Murat Mosque (Skopje) 519 Revolution (Timişoara) 705 844-5 Tombul Mosque (Shumen) 182 PinchukArtCentre (Kyiv) 26, 920-1 Mavrovo National Park 526-7 Yahdar-Kadi Mosque (Bitola) 533 Prague Jewish Museum 280-1, Mljet National Park 255 Yeni Mosque (Bitola) 533 284 Mt Dajti National Park 56 Mostar 19, 124-32, , Rīga Art Nouveau Centre 460 126-7 19 Pelister National Park 534-5 accommodation 128-30 Schindler’s Factory (Kraków) 622 Pieniny National Park 855-6 drinking 130-1 State Hermitage Museum (St Petersburg) 761, 764, 765, Plitvice Lakes National Park 142, entertainment 131 11 State Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau 226, 26 food 130 627 Pripyatsky National Park 97 history 124 State Tretyakov Gallery (Moscow) Slovak Karst National Park 865-6 information 131-2 748 Slovenský Raj National Park 860 shopping 131 Šternberg Palace (Prague) 277 Soomaa National Park 368 sights 124-5 Sugihara House (Kaunas) 27, 499 Strict Nature Reserve 614 tours 125, 128 Svrzo House (Sarajevo) 111 Sutjeska National Park 135 travel to/from 131, 132 Underground Museum of Socialism Tatra National Park 637-9 travel within 132 (Vilnius) 496 Trakai Historical National Park motorcycle travel 972, 974-5 War Photo Limited (Dubrovnik) 256 497 mountain climbing 588 music Una National Park 142 movies, see cinema Albania 73 Nesebâr 193-4 Mt Gubałówka 636 Bosnia & Hercegovina 32, 147 Nevsky Prospekt 768, 766 Mt Hoverla 931 Bulgaria 201-2 Nida 508-9 Mt Lovćen 574 Croatia 29, 30, 265 Ninth Fort 502 Mt Tâmpa 695 Czech Republic 29, 31, 330-1 Niš 817-19 1008 Novaya Gollandiya 768-9 P media 672-3 Novi Pazar 819-20 Pakleni Islands 251 money 598, 673 814-16 palaces, see castles, fortresses & people 668 Nowa Huta 622 palaces planning 597-8 Nyasvizh 91 Palanga 504-5 politics 667-8 Paneriai 496-7 postal services 673 Pannonhalma Abbey 405 safety 673 O paragliding 578, 960 telephone services 673

INDEX INDEX Odesa 934-40, 936 parasailing 588 travel seasons 597 Ohrid 18, 527-3, 528, 18 Parcul Catedralei 548 travel to/from 598, 674-5 Old Towns 24 Park Oliwski 652-3 travel within 675-6

N-R Belgrade 803 Pärnu 363-7, visas 674 Bratislava 830-1 364 passports 971 weather 597 Bucharest 682-3 politics, see individual countries Budva 578 Pécs 411-14, 412 Pomerania 650-63 Český Krumlov 20 Peja 443-5 Poprad 847-8 Dubrovnik 15, 256-7 people, see individual countries Poreč 232-4 Gdańsk 652 Perast 574 Portorož 904 Herceg Novi 572 Petrodvorets 777 postal services 966, see also Kaunas 498-9 Petrovac 580 individual countries Kežmarok 855 phonecards 968 Postojna 897-8 Klaipėda 505-6 photography 966 Poznań 646-50 Kraków 617, 621 Pieniny National Park 855-6 Prague 10, 276-300, 278-9, 282, Minsk 83 Piešťany 840 288-9, 11 Novi Pazar 819 Piran 900-4, 902-3 Piva Canyon 591 accommodation 285-7, 290-1 Olsztyn 664 drinking 293-4 Poreč 232 planning 22-3, see also individual countries entertainment 294-7 Poznań 647 budgeting 22 festivals & events 285 Prague 277-83 calendar of events 28-32 food 291-3 Rīga 452-3, 457-9 internet resources 23 gay travellers 296 Rovinj 230 itineraries 33-9 information 297-8 Sarajevo 110-11 packing 23 itineraries 276 Szczecin 663 travel seasons 22 lesbian travellers 296 Tallinn 340-1, 344-6 Plitvice Lakes 142, 226 shopping 297 Toruń 659 Plovdiv 168-73, sights 276-7, 280-1, 283-5 Trebinje 134 170 Plzeň 308-10 tours 285 Trogir 249 Počitelj 133 travel to/from 298, 299 Ulcinj 581 Podgorica 585-7, 586-7 travel within 298-300 Warsaw 600-2 Prčanj 574 Wrocław 640-1 Podlasie 613-16 Polańczyk 640 Predjama 898 Zadar 240 Prilep 535 Zamość 634 Poland 42, 597-676, 599 accommodation 597, 670-1 Primorsko 198 Olomouc 320-4, 322 activities 671-2 Pristina 440-3, 442 Olsztyn 664-6 Prizren 445 Opatija 237-8 arts 668-9 budgeting 598 Przemyśl 639-40 opening hours 961, see also indi- Pržno 579-80 vidual countries business hours 672 Ptuj 905-6 Oradea 708-9 climate 597 drinking 598, 670 public holidays 966, see also Orange Revolution 947 individual countries embassies & consulates 672 Oravský Podzámok 843 Pula 226-9 environment 669-70 Orebić 254 Punkva Cave 318 exchange rates 598 Ostróda 663-4 Punta Corrente Forest Park 230 Otepää 362-3 food 597, 598, 670, 672 Our-Lady-of-the-Rock Island 574 highlights 599 history 666-8 R holidays 673 Radovljica 889 internet access 672 rafting 961 000 Map pages internet resources 674 Albania 63, 75 000 Photo pages itineraries 598 Bosnia & Hercegovina 26, 143, 147 1009 Bovec 895 visas 736 sailing 961 Croatia 258-9, 268 weather 677 Sanok 640 Czech Republic 307 Rovinj 229-32 Săpânţa 712 Montenegro 588, 590 Rozavlea 713 Sarajevo 110-22, 112, 114 Serbia 824 Rt Kamenjak 227 accommodation 116-17 Slovenia 892, 896 ruins activities 110-15 Rakhiv 931 Amphitheatre of Durrës 60 drinking 118-19 Red Square 746-8, 12 Butrint 68 entertainment 119-20 INDEX INDEX reserves, see national parks & Cella Septichora Visitors Centre festivals & events 116 reserves 411, 413 food 117-18 Rīga 18, 452-69, 454-5, 456-7, Fortress of Justinian (Tirana) 50-1 history 110 R-S 18 (Niš) 818 information 120 accommodation 461-3 Melnik 166 itineraries 110 activities 460-1 Pirita Convent 347 shopping 120 drinking 465-6 Roman Thermae 187 sights 110-15 entertainment 466 Stari Bar 580 tours 115-16 festivals & events 461 Stobi 537 travel to/from 120, 121 food 463-5 Teutonic Knights’ Castle Ruins 659 travel within 120 history 462 Triumphal Arch of Sergius 227 Saranda 66-8 information 467-8 Žabljak Crnojevića 584 Šargan 8 railway 821 itineraries 453 Ruse 183-6, 184 saunas, see banyas, bathhouses & shopping 466-9 Rusenski Lom Nature Park 186-7 saunas sights 452-3, 457-60 Russia 43, 739-98, 741 Saxon Gardens 603 tours 461 accommodation 739, 792-3 Saxon Triangle 699 travel to/from 468 arts 790-1 scams 967 travel within 468-9 budgeting 740 Serbia 43, 799-826, 801 Rijeka 234-7 business hours 793 accommodation 799, 824 Rijeka Crnojevića 584 climate 739 activities 824 Rila Monastery 164-5 drinking 740, 792 arts 823-4 Risan 574 embassies & consulates 793 budgeting 800 rock climbing 268, 893 environment 791-2 business hours 824-5 Romania 43, 677-738, 679 exchange rates 740 climate 799 accommodation 677, 733-4 food 739, 740, 792, 793-4 drinking 800, 824 arts 731 highlights 741 embassies & consulates 825 budgeting 678 history 788-9 environment 824 business hours 734 holidays 794 exchange rates 800 climate 677 internet resources 740 food 799, 800, 824, 825 customs regulations 734 itineraries 740 highlights 801 drinking 678, 733 money 740, 794 history 822-3 embassies & consulates 734 people 789-90 holidays 825 environment 732 planning 739-40 internet resources 800 exchange rates 678 politics 788, 789 itineraries 800 food 677, 678, 732-3, 734 postal services 794 money 800, 825 highlights 679 safety 794 people 823 history 729-31 telephone services 794-5 planning 799-800 holidays 735 travel seasons 739 politics 822, 823 internet resources 678 travel to/from 740, 796, 973 postal services 825 itineraries 678 travel within 796-8 safety 825 money 678, 734-5 visas 795-6 telephone services 825 people 731 weather 739 tourist information 825 planning 677-8 Rybachy 787 travel seasons 799 politics 729, 730-1 travel to/from 800, 826 postal services 735 travel within 826 S telephone services 735-6 Saaremaa 368-70 visas 826 tourist information 736 safety 966-8, see also individual weather 799 travel seasons 677 locations Sergiev Posad 742 travel to/from 678, 736-7 hitching 975 Sfântu Gheorghe 725-6 travel within 737-8 train travel 977 Shipka Pass 176 1010 Shkodra 56-8 history 867-8 shopping 161 shopping, see individual locations holidays 871 sights 154-5 Shumen 182-3 internet access 870 travel to/from 161-2 Sibiu 700-2 internet resources 828 travel within 163 Sighetu Marmaţiei 710, 712 itineraries 828 Solin 243 Sighişoara 698-700 money 828 Sopot 657 Sigulda 472-4 people 868 Sopron 405-7 Silesia 640-6 planning 827-8 Soroca 557 INDEX INDEX Simferopol 940-2 postal services 871 Southern Bucovina 718-21, 719 Sinaia 691-4 telephone services 871 Sozopol 196-8, 14 Širkové saddle 854 tourist information 871 spas 432 S Skalnaté pleso 850 travel seasons 827 Spišská Nová Ves 859 Skanderbeg 60 travel to/from 828, 871-2 Spišské Podhradie 857-8 skiing 961 travel within 872 Split 242-9, 244-5 Bosnia & Hercegovina 122, 123, visas 871 accommodation 246-7 147 weather 827 activities 245-6 Bulgaria 164, 167 Slovenia 43, 873-912, 875 drinking 247-8 Macedonia 527 accommodation 873, 908-9 entertainment 247-8 Montenegro 588, 590 arts 907-8 festivals & events 246 Poland 638, 646, 671 budgeting 874 food 247 Romania 691 business hours 909 history 242 Serbia 821 climate 873 information 248 Slovakia 844, 850, 851, 852, 870 drinking 874, 908 sights 242-5 Slovenia 892, 894, 895 embassies & consulates 909 travel to/from 248-9 Ukraine 931 environment 908 travel within 249 Škocjan Caves 898-9 exchange rates 874 Sremski Karlovci 817 Skopje 517-26, 520-1 festivals & events 909 Starý Smokovec 850 accommodation 519-21 food 873, 874, 908, 909 State Hermitage Museum drinking 523 highlights 875 (St Petersburg) 761, 764, 765, 11 entertainment 523-4 history 906-7 St George’s Island 574, 14 festivals & events 519 holidays 910 Stobi 537 food 521-3 internet access 910 Stolac 133-4 information 525 internet resources 874 Stoliv 574 itineraries 518 itineraries 874 St Petersburg 10, 761-78, 762-3, shopping 524-5 money 874, 910 766, 10 sights 518-19 people 907 accommodation 770-2 travel to/from 524, 525 planning 873-4 activities 769-70 travel within 526 postal services 910 drinking 774-5 skydiving 960 telephone services 910 entertainment 775-6 Slavkovský štít 850 tourist information 910-11 festivals & events 770 Sliezsky dom 850 travel seasons 873 food 772-4 Slovakia 43, 827-72, 829 travel to/from 874, 911 history 761 accommodation 827, 870 travel within 911 information 776-7 activities 870 visas 911 shopping 776 arts 868-9 weather 873 sights 761, 764-5, 767-9, 770 budgeting 828 Slovenský Raj 859-61, 858-9 tours 770 business hours 870 Small Carpathians 839 travel to/from 777-8 climate 827 Smederevo 811 travel within 778 drinking 828, 869 Smolyan 173-4 Štrbački Buk 142 embassies & consulates 870 Snagov Lake 694 Štrbské Pleso 850 environment 869 Soča Valley 895-7 Studený Potok 850 exchange rates 828 soccer 757, 776 816 food 827, 828, 869 Sofia 154-63, 156-7 Suceava 717-18 highlights 829 accommodation 155, 158-9 Suceviţa 720-1 drinking 159-60 Suchá Belá Gorge 860 entertainment 160 Sudeten Mountains 645-6 Map pages 000 food 159 Sulina 724-5 000 Photo pages information 161 Sveti Konstantin 192 1011 Sveti Stefan 579-80 Tirana 49-56, 50 highlights 916 Svetlogorsk 786-7 accommodation 52-3 history 946-8 Święta Lipka 666 drinking 53-4 holidays 954 Świnoujście 662 entertainment 54 internet access 953 synagogues festivals & events 52 internet resources 914 Great Synagogue (Budapest) food 53 itineraries 914 385 information 54-5 money 914, 953 Izaak’s Synagogue (Kraków) 621 shopping 54 people 948-9 Klaus Synagogue (Prague) 280-1, sights 49-52 planning 913-14 INDEX 284 tours 52 politics 948 Maisel Synagogue (Prague) 280-1, travel to/from 55-6 postal services 953

284 S-V travel within 55-6 safety 954 Nożyk Synagogue (Warsaw) 606 Tiraspol 559-61 telephone services 954 Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 281, 284 Tivat 577-8 travel seasons 913 Orthodox Synagogue (Oradea) toilets 969 travel to/from 914, 954-5 708-9 Tokaj 424-5, 866 travel within 955-6 Pinkas Synagogue (Prague) 280-1 Tomašovský výhľad 860 visas 954 Remuh Synagogue (Kraków) 621 Toomemägi 359 weather 913 Rīga Synagogue 453 Topola 811 Ulcinj 581-2 Spanish Synagogue (Prague) Toruń 21, 658-62, 658-9, 21 Umoljani 123 280-1, 284 tourist information 969, see also Ustka 662 Szczecin 662-3 individual countries Szeged 417-20, 418 tours 976, see also individual Szentendre 398-400 locations V train travel 15, 972, 976-8, 15 Vác 400-1 rail passes 977-8 vacations 966 T resources 976-7 Vadu Izei 713 Tábor 311 safety 977 Valbonë 58 Tallinn 15, 340-56, 342-3, 15 Trakai 497 Valea Izei 712-14 accommodation 349-50 Transdniestr 557-62 Valtice 326 activities 348 Transylvania 16, 690-705, 692-3 Vama Veche 728-9 drinking 352 travel to/from Eastern Europe Varna 187-91, 188-9 entertainment 352-3 971-2 Vataša 537 festivals & events 348-9 travel within Eastern Europe 22-3, vegetarian travellers food 350-2 972-8 Albania 74 history 340 travellers cheques 965-6 Belarus 101 information 354 Travnik 137-8 Croatia 267 shopping 353-4 Trebinje 134-5 Czech Republic 332 sights 340-1, 344-8 Trenčín 839-41 Hungary 430-1 tours 348 Treska Canyon 526 Kosovo 447 travel within 355-6 Trogir 249-50 Moldova 565 travel to/from 354-5 Trpejca 532 Montenegro 593 Tsarevo 198 Tartu 358-62, 360 Russia 792 Tatra Mountains 637-9, 847-55 Tsarskoe Selo 777 Serbia 824 Tatranská Lomnica 850 Tulcea 722-4 Ukraine 951 Telč 324-5 Veliko Târnovo 177-82, 178 telephone services 968, see also U Veliky Novogord 759-61 individual countries Ukraine 43, 913-56, 916-17 Velká Studená Valley 850 Terezín 304 accommodation 913, 952 Velvet Revolution 329 theatre 791 arts 949-50 Ventas Rumba 471 theft 967-8 budgeting 914 Ventspils 471-2 Theth 58 business hours 952 Verudela Peninsula 227 Tiesňavy Gorge 843 climate 913 Vidin 199 Tihany 408-9 customs regulations 952-3 Viljandi 367-8 Tikveš 536-7 drinking 914, 950-1 Vilnius 481-96, 484-5, 488-9 time 968-9 embassies & consulates 953 accommodation 486, 490-1 Timişoara 705-8 exchange rates 914 drinking 493 tipping 965 food 913, 914, 950-1, 953 entertainment 493-4 1012 Vilnius continued shopping 610-11 Bulgaria 201 festivals & events 486 sights 600-6 Romania 730 food 491-3 tours 606 Slovenia 907 history 482 travel to/from 611-13 Ukraine 947 information 494-5 travel within 613 WWII itineraries 482 water parks 365, 348 Belarus 100 shopping 494 waterskiing 193 Bosnia & Hercegovina 144 sights 482-6 weather 22, see also individual Bulgaria 201 INDEX INDEX travel to/from 495-6 countries Estonia 371 travel within 496 websites, see internet resources Moldova 563 Vintgar Gorge 888 white water rafting, see rafting Poland 667 V-Z violence 968 Wielkopolska 646-50 Romania 730 Virpazar 584 Wilanów Park 605-6 Russia 789 visas 23, 969-70, see also individual windsurfing 268, 671-2 Slovenia 907 countries wine, see also wineries Ukraine 947 Viscri 699 Albania 74 Višegrad 20, 135-6, 401-2, 22 Bulgaria 152, 203-4 Visoko 136-7 Croatia 266 Y Vistota Efa 787 Czech Republic 332 yachting Vitosha Nature Park 164 Hercegovina 133 Croatia 268 Vitsebsk 96-8 Hungary 422, 424, 431 Montenegro 573 Vlkolínec 842-3 Kosovo 438 Poland 671-2 Vlora 64-5 Macedonia 516 Yalta 942-4 vodka Moldova 546, 565 Yaremche 931 Belarus 101 Montenegro 570 Estonia 373 Romania 733 Poland 598, 670 Slovakia 839, 869 Russia 792 Slovenia 908 Z Ukraine 914 Ukraine 951 Žabljak 589 Vojvodina 813-16 wineries, see also wine Zadar 240-2 Volosko 238 Acorex vineyard 556 Zagreb 211, 214-26, 214-15 Vorokhta 931 Bovin Winery 537 accommodation 219-20 Voroneţ 719-20 Çobo Winery 63 drinking 221-2 Vozarci 537 Cojuşna vineyard 556 entertainment 222-3 Vrátna Valley 843-4 Cricova 556 festivals & events 218-19 Vrbas Canyons 141 Disan Hills Winery 537 food 220-1 Vršič Pass 19 Elenov Winery 537 history 211 Vrtbov Garden 283 Massandra Winery 942 information 223-4 Vuno 66 Mileştii Mici 556 itineraries 217 Vyšehrad 286 Mitko Manolev Winery 166 shopping 223 Popova Kula Winery 537 sights 211, 216-18 Tikveš Winery 536 tours 218 W Vinoteka David 536 travel to/from 224, 225 Warhol, Andy 861 Witches’ Hill 508 travel within 224, 226 Warmia 663-6 Wolf’s Lair 666 Zakopane 635-7 Warsaw 600-13, 601, 602, 604 women travellers 970 Zamkovského chata 850 accommodation 607-8 Albania 76 Zamość 633-5 drinking 610 Montenegro 595 Ždiar 854-5 entertainment 610 Russia 796 Zejmarská Gorge 860 festivals & events 607 work 970 Želenkovac 142 food 608-10 Wrocław 640-5, 642 Zemun 813 history 600 WWI Žilina 841-2 information 611 Belarus 100 Zlatibor 820-2 itineraries 600 Bosnia & Hercegovina 144 Zlatni Rt 230

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